Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Lyle Reilly
Abstract
Wearable technology is an exciting emerging area with the potential to be hugely
significant in the way we interact with clothing and electronic technology. Knowledge
and skills from a combination of disciplines including computer science, electronics,
textile technology, garment and product design are essential for the area to flourish.
The paper highlights practical considerations and project insights which have lead to
the identification of collaboration, project planning and user centred design focus as
essential ingredients to those involved in wearable electronic projects.
A Wearable Technology Project
Introduction
The terms ‘smart textiles’, ‘smart clothing’ and ‘wearable electronics’ have become
increasingly familiar in recent years. Developments in new fabrications and yarns
combined with the availability of small, lightweight electronic devices present fresh
possibilities to how we may interact with the clothes we wear. Dr Patricia Wilson
poses an optimistic view surrounding the potential of smart textiles and wearable
electronics. “No longer can we look at a piece of cloth and think of it as technology as
old as time. We must start to realise that it holds infinite possibilities when put into the
hands of a creative team who strive to answer the question, ‘What if?’” (Wilson 2005,
209). Turning possibilities into a reality is the challenge to those involved in wearable
technology, one only has to spend a few minutes on the talk2myshirt wearable
technology website to get a sense of how innovative designers are responding to the
‘What if?’ question. Projects range from socially responsible applications such as a
wearable electronic health monitoring system and a renewable power supply bag
aimed at assisting third world countries, right through to fun items like illuminated flip
flops. Developments such as fabrications that respond to light, use of solar power,
and sensors able to respond to sound and mood changes, are just a snap shot of an
eclectic list of current endeavours that may play a part in the future.
The work highlighted in this paper explores such technology and contains insights
and research experiences gained while developing the final stages of a practice
based design project entitled ‘City Centred Cycling’. The project, completed in 2009,
was specifically targeted at enhancing the safety of city cycling commuters with the
aim of developing a wearable electronic jacket. The key factors that were considered
were that the jacket should be comfortable to wear, offer protection from wind/rain
and be highly visible to traffic.
The research focus explored the design processes and considerations associated
with the introduction of wearable electronics, in particular the integration of an LED
electronic lighting system to increase visibility to motorists. On a personal level the
study was carried out using an experimental action research framework used to gain
electronic experience to complement my existing technical and fashion design
understandings related to cycling. While the project presents work specifically
targeted at cycle commuter use, the electronic integration information presented is
transferable for fellow researchers exploring the inter-disciplinary nature of wearable
electronics.
Research Significance
The research significance of the project was based around the inter-disciplinary
concerns that embrace the field of wearable electronics. In recent years there has
been a small increase of commercial product available, yet there remains lack of
accessible research material that is devoted specifically to the implementation of the
discipline. Specific research material discussing actual practical steps for wearable
technology integration is particularly limited. Reasons for this lack of accessible
knowledge include commercial confidentiality and intellectual property issues which
prevent access to existing product details and design process. More importantly the
The field of wearable electronics is a growing discipline that draws expertise from a
mix of related areas, but at this stage a common location to house this new field of
expertise does not exist. There are a range of possible factors for this; the relative
newness of this field of research, the range of possible technology applications, the
interdisciplinary nature of the field and the location of where such research should be
placed. This particular research contribution shares understandings and insights that
have surfaced as a result of the practice based design approaches and aims to
contribute to the growing body of knowledge that is being built around wearable
electronics.
Smith proposes a theory for this lack of cohesion from concept to final product,
suggesting that there may be a lack of understanding by industrial designers and
engineers about the technical aspects of fabrication, clothing manufacture and
ergonomic body fit. Other considerations are that the specialist fields of electronics
and fashion/textiles have different approaches to design and strategic thinking
leading to creative and communication boundaries. All of which points towards the
need for clear project strategies to deal with the level of complexity involved.
Ariyatum and Holland (2005) propose a “new product design” model emphasising the
value of focussed collaboration with balanced viewpoints in order to achieve full
integration of electronics and fashion, described as “the ultimate goal of smart
technology”. Further research by Bougourd, McCann & Stevens (2010) adds
considerable support for collaboration using user centred design processes. Both
cases highlight that by focussing on the intended user the necessary combination of
skills and expertise required for successful wearable technology integration can
occur.
While technology such as a solar panelled bag to electrically charge a laptop, cell
phone or MP3 player may have appeal and can certainly be useful, perhaps we
should ask some key questions about whether the innovations could move beyond
extensions of our existing technology?
The following questions may stimulate discussion to help establish a clear rationale:
Current research from the ‘Smart Clothes and Wearable Technology’ research team
at University of Wales, Newport, UK concentrates on the full engagement with an
older user group to ascertain if and how the introduction of smart wearable
technology could enhance quality of life for the elderly. This UK government funded
project is targeted to respond to the needs of the elderly community, where issues
such as healthcare, mobility and communication may take on different meanings to
that of a younger demographic. The project still has some way to go, but will be
interesting to monitor the creative and technical responses by the design team
developing from this classic ‘user centred’ product design approach.
Figure 1. The Burton Audex jacket is a joint venture between Motorola and Burton snowboard
apparel. The jacket offers wearable communication and entertainment via integrated
Bluetooth wireless technology to download music via Bluetooth-enabled phone or portable.
To date the use of wearable technologies has predominantly featured within the
specialist areas of healthcare, military and high performance sportswear. New
Zealand based company Zephyr Technology have successfully positioned
themselves to respond to these areas by specialising in development of smart fabric
based technology. Their product range concentrates on high spec heart and
breathing monitors. The potential of this technology was fully realised in Sept 2010
when Zephyr Bio Harness products were sent underground to trapped Chilean
miners to monitor their health and condition leading up to and during the dramatic
rescue at Copiapó.
This success story is of particular significance to staff at AUT University’s Textile and
Design Laboratory (T+DL) who were involved in a cross disciplinary research
partnership with Zephyr engineers in 2008/9. The convergence of electronics and
textile expertise during the course of this partnership demonstrated how seemingly
non-aligned industries can learn and work together given a common objective, in this
case to enhance the aesthetics and wearability of the Bio Harness wearable
electronic product, later used in the mine rescue.
Figure 2. Refined BioHarness with additional shoulder strap
Figure 3. Zephyr/AUT integrated base layer garment
The LilyPad wearable electronics system and other Arduino products have provided
a platform on which DIY enthusiasts can trial and experiment with electronics in a fun
way, essentially simplifying a lot of the complex computer programming and
connectivity normally associated with electronics expertise. The ‘hands on’ theme of
Buechley’s presentation argues that technology is no longer only in the hands of
large companies and that with the advent of the internet, “Online communities
devoted to hobbies from crafting to electronics tinkering – where people share
designs and construction tips – are flourishing” (Ibid).
Figure 4. Arduino LilyPad Main board
Many amateur enthusiasts now feel empowered to share ideas and developments
within this growing social network, which has become an integral part of promoting
the growth of wearable technologies. Websites such
as www.talk2myshirt.com and www.fashioningtech.com are just two examples that
attract a worldwide following. Publications such as ‘Fashioning Technology: A DIY
Intro to Smart Crafting’ by Syuzi Pakhchhyan (2008) and ‘Fashion Geek’ by Dianne
Eng (2009) present practical approaches and design considerations to encourage
new converts to experiment with the possibilities of wearable technology.
Figure 5. Cable and circuit board placement
Figure 6. Testing early LED Jacket
Despite experiencing technical difficulties related to durability and weight, the results
incorporating a cell phone key pad had a degree of success. Importantly,
understandings of clothing and electronic integration were starting to emerge,
although limited collaboration restricted my personal understandings of electronics.
This issue was resolved with the release of the previously mentioned LilyPad system,
part of the Arduino group, an open source electronics prototyping platform containing
electronic instructional information. The system is essentially a wearable
minicomputer that contains a programmable micro processer that can be linked to a
variety of components such as LEDs, switches and touch, light or sound sensors. An
additional attraction was the use of conductive thread as an alternative to electrical
wire as a means to transmit an electrical signal from the control panel and power
source to the LEDs.
Conductive thread
Conductive threads are typically nylon or polyester based yarns that are spun with
metallic elements such as silver or stainless steel. Despite the metallic properties
they remain soft, light and flexible. In theory there are a number of advantages to
using this method of signal transfer, such as the elimination of soldering associated
with wire, and the thread can also be sewn directly to fabric ensuring unrestricted
natural movement to the wearer. However the actual process of working with
conductive thread requires some experimentation. Critical aspects for consideration
relate to the exposed nature of the conductive elements; for example, reduction of
current occurs over 30cm, and two threads touching can cause the electronic signal
to short circuit, so careful planning of seam and thread positioning are essential.
Figure 7. Four ply conductive thread
These early integration experiences with the LilyPad system proved valuable in
gaining confidence in working with electronics. Experimentation led to the
development of a working method for the transmission of electrical signals. The
method used seam channels on which conductive thread could be discreetly sewn on
the inside of the garment.
phases, firstly to discuss design ideas, requirements and project planning. This was
followed up with two further prototype electronic testing stages before the final
implementation was carried out.
Prior experiences had led to the realisation that effective design planning was a key
component to the success of the project and indeed future wearable electronics
work. This recognition was based on the contention that a designer in this field
should consider the effects electronics can have on a garment and the effects a
garment design can have on the electronic integration process. Questioning design
decisions in a holistic manner can lead to more effective planning, thus increasing
the likelihood of project success. An example of this would be questioning the effect
on electronic wiring of applying heat sealing tape to garment seams (involving high
temperatures and use of pressure) to create a more functional, waterproof garment.
Much of the attraction of modern electronics is based on the reduction of scale and
weight of products; for example, small cell phones and portable sound devices. It is
fair to say that the field of wearable electronics shares similar concerns particularly to
ensure that a wearer does not experience physical discomfort when carrying an
electronic device. Therefore, appropriate use of design technology should be
considered to deal with scale, precision and accuracy. The introduction of
technologies such as computer laser cutting and digital print detail not only deal with
technical issues but present design opportunities. Digital design elements of the
jacket design were imported, developed and transferred into a number of different
computer programmes and output devices including:
3 D visualisation
Figure 8. V Sticher Grid mapping
Figure 9. V Sticher Rendered image
3D visualisation software was used for style development, in particular to revise fit,
and position LEDs and print detailing. The particular software, Gerber V Stitcher is a
3D virtual prototyping programme developed by Bronzerwear in South Africa; it is
intended for fit, styling and fabrication analysis. The commercial use of this
technology is aimed at eliminating the costly sampling process and creating a sharing
interface between designer and customer. It is especially useful for individual client
customisation. The direct interface to computer pattern shapes for this project
enabled sizing information, fabric and construction details to be mapped to a selected
avatar, offering 360 degree viewing of various positions including active sports
poses, in particular an appropriate cycling pose. As a result, the final jacket shape
adopts a specific non conventional fit aimed at providing comfort to the wearer when
cycling; the torso is bent forward from the hip while arms positions are angled to hold
handlebars.
Figure 10. 3-Dimensional rendered image in cycling position
Figure 11. Comparison with actual finished item
A critical point learnt from earlier work was that the simplification of seam lines could
aid the electronic integration process. The pattern shaping for the back panels of the
white jacket follow a gentle arc between the lower back where the electronics are
housed to the LED position on the sleeves (Fig 13). This method proved to be
successful as it eliminated the sharp angles and stress points that could cause
electrical wire breakage. Likewise, the implementation of exposed conductive thread
integration would benefit from this recommendation to prevent the risk of short
circuiting or disrupted signal from circuit board.
Figure 12. Back panel seaming angles
Figure 13. Example of computer art work and digital fabric print application
The use of technology created a smooth and accurate transition from concept to final
execution. The digital artwork for the jacket was designed to complement the pattern
shapes used for fit, styling and electronic integration. The accuracy obtained by both
computerised cutting and digital printing methods, which was extremely precise,
ensured that a partial garment could be made in anticipation of electronic integration.
Electronic process
The physical process of creating a purpose built LED lighting system was carried out
with the assistance of an electronics expert. Programming the micro chip and micro
processer which sends an electronic signal to the LEDs was carried out using an
industrial programme development kit called Programmable Interface Control (PIC)
by Microchip solutions. While the complexity of the process required an experienced
operator, the conceptual similarities to the programming of the LilyPad system were
striking. Essentially this involves programming a code which then sends an
instruction to an electronic component. Specific code programming was particularly
useful for the design functionality of the soft touch on/off button and light sequence.
Figure 14. Programmable development kit
A single touch on/off button was positioned beneath artwork and fabric of the left
sleeve. A single push wakes the system up and starts the flashing LEDs, a second
touch reverts back to sleep mode. This simplicity allows for easy operation when
cycling, particularly in winter if gloves are worn.
Figure 16. Securing LED’s to electrical wire and the LilyPad on/off button mounted on sleeve
Some programming experimentation with the flash sequence led to power saving. It
was determined that an LED flash sequence attracts more attention to motorists than
a permanent light and important energy savings are made with every millisecond the
lights are off. The life of 2 x 3.7 volt lithium polymer batteries to permanently run 9
LEDs would be 8 hours, but for a 50%-on 50%-off sequence this is doubled to 16
hours. Experimentation finally led to a 10%-on 90%-off ratio, increasing the battery
life to 80 hours before recharging was required. Remarkably the red light appears to
stay on for much longer due to the speed of the flash and the light delay effect on the
human eye.
By planning how the electronics would fit into the garment the actual electronic
integration and garment assembly was simplified. The techniques referred to earlier;
smooth seam lines to house electronic cables, computer cutting for accuracy, digital
print detail stitch guides for the zip pockets and LED windows, were all included with
this aim. Another consideration was the use of transparent plastic placed and sewn
to create a protective surface for the LEDs.
Figure 17. Close up of LED sleeve detail
Figure 18. Inside detail showing French seam and cables
A construction method known as ‘French seaming’ was used for two reasons; firstly
the seam finish catches the raw edge of the seam within the seam allowance
reducing the risk water penetration. Secondly the seam procedure creates a channel
in which electronic cabling can easily be housed. Cabling was positioned in the
back/sleeve seam channel and electrically connected later (Figures 19 and 20 show
this method applied to left sleeve).
The final electronic connection and adhesive sealing to position LEDs took place
after the main garment construction stage. The finalisation of the jacket involved the
insertion of a mesh lining and the completion of the pocket detail to house the
purpose-built lighting control unit. The unit contains the micro controller, batteries and
connector sockets to link to the jacket.
Figure 19. Inside detail showing opening of control pocket detail and sleeve LEDs
Figure 20. Finished front detail showing unit pocket
The location of the plastic covered control unit was located on the inside lower back
of the jacket. The position was chosen for electronic ease but presents no discomfort
when worn. Figure 21 shows how the specifically designed pocket was cut to exact
size with a padded lining to support the unit. A Velcro flap opening conceals the
cable connectors and allows for easy access to recharge or remove the unit as
required.
Conclusion
Research throughout the project helped to develop electronic confidence, technical
communication and understandings of wearable technology, and as such, influenced
the approach taken to the refinement stage of the project. The case study presents
some practical advice while the following section offers some considerations for
fellow researchers embarking on a wearable electronics projects.
Collaboration
In the case of the City Centred Cycling project, a human-centred approach helped to
establish a focus in which electronics and clothing considerations could combine with
a common goal. Designers involved in wearable electronics projects should adopt a
holistic approach to take into account the various possibilities presented to them and,
most importantly, be aware that a decision made for electronic purposes may have
an effect on the overall garment. Similarly, a change made to garment design may
have an effect on the electronic integration process.
Smart future
At its simplest level, any portable electronic device could be placed on an existing
garment but this does not make it a ‘smart garment’. The ‘smart’ label only applies
when a designer’s approach becomes much more considerate towards the desired
functionality. The design integration should consider the relationship between the soft
fabric, hard electronics and most importantly how the user connects with the end
product.
For the foreseeable future, integration methods such as the ones used in this project
may be used, but eventually technical developments to create a blend of soft
electronic based textiles will make the current methods seem clumsy and outdated.
Indeed, Power Textiles Ltd in Scotland is currently working on the development of
flexible textile fabrics into which solar cells will be directly incorporated. This exciting
prospect relates back to Patricia Wilson’s quote at the beginning of this paper:
“We must start to realize that it holds infinite possibilities when put into the
hands of a creative team who strive to answer the question, ‘What if’?”
French seam: A seam stitched first on the right side and then turned in and stitched
on the wrong side so that the raw edges are enclosed in the seam.
LEDs (light emitting diodes): A semiconductor diode that converts applied voltage to
light and is used in lamps and digital displays.
Smart Fabrics: Textiles capable of sensing and responding to external stimuli, such
as changes in the lighting or temperature.
References
Ariyatum, Busayawan & Ray Holland. 2005. A strategic approach to new product
development in smart clothing. Retrieved May 10th 2006,
from http://www.idemployee.id.tue.nl/g.w.m.rauterberg/conferences/CD_doNo
tOpen/ADC/final_paper/135.pdf
Bougourd, Jennifer, Jane McCann & Katy Stevens. 2010. Communicating the
benefits of smart textiles for functional clothing through user-centred
design. Centenary World Conference 2010 conference
proceedings. Manchester, U.K: The Textile Institute. Audio CD.
Eng, Dianne. 2009. Fashion Geek: Clothes Accessories Tech. USA: North Light
Books
Johnston, Bryan. 2008. Burton Audex Jacket. Retrieved August 24, 2009
from http://www.motorola.com/mediacenter/news/detail.jsp
Pakhchyan, Syuzi. 2008. Fashioning Technology: A DIY Intro to Smart Crafting. Italy:
Make Books.
Smith, David. 2007. Smart Clothes and wearable technology. AI & Society, 22 (1), 1-
3.
List of Figures
Figure 1. The Burton Audex jacket. http://www.campist.com/archives/burton-audex-
jacket-series.html ................................................................................................. 4
Figure 2. Refined BioHarness with additional shoulder strap. (©Lyle Reilly) .............. 5
Figure 10. 3-Dimensional rendered image in cycling position. (©Lyle Reilly) ........... 10
Figure 11. Comparison with actual finished item. (©Lyle Reilly) ............................... 10
Figure 13. Example of computer art work and digital fabric print application. (©Lyle
Reilly) ................................................................................................................. 11
Figure 16. Securing LED’s to electrical wire and the LilyPad on/off button mounted on
sleeve. (©Lyle Reilly) ......................................................................................... 13
Figure 18. Inside detail showing French seam and cables. (©Lyle Reilly) ................ 14
Figure 19. Inside detail showing opening of control pocket detail and sleeve LEDs.
(©Lyle Reilly) ...................................................................................................... 15
Figure 20. Finished front detail showing unit pocket. (©Lyle Reilly) .......................... 16
ISSN: 2230-2115
JCT is a research communication platform published by Colab at the Faculty of Design and Creative
Technologies, Auckland University of Technology.
https://ctechjournal.aut.ac.nz