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Winemag.com
 GOTTWINES.COM
©2017 JOEL GOTT WINES, ST. HELENA, CA
 100
AMERICA’S

BEST WINE
RESTAURANTS
2017
46
BY THE EDITORS OF WINE ENTHUSIAST
The country’s most exciting spots to eat and drink, and
the somms and chefs behind them

Cover Photo by Eric Schwabel

Features
74 ALSACE ROCKS
BY ANNE KREBIEHL, MW
These seven grand crus produce some of
France’s—if not the world’s—greatest wines

82 WHAT’S BREWING
BY LAUREN BUZZEO
Six hot topics that are defining the
American beer market today

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

 AUGUST 26
The Maine attractions
Departments Columns
WINEMAG.COM EDITORS’ LETTER
12 Listen up to our podcast 10 Redefining the Masterpiece
BY ADAM STRUM AND SUSAN
OUT & ABOUT KOSTRZEWA
16 South Walton Wine & Food;
FIAF; Smithsonian National VIEWPOINT
Museum of American History 44 Great Things in Small Packages
LANA BORTOLOT
THE CRUSH
19 The best-ro of bistros LAST DROP
22 Bottles that give back 136 Drinking less to enjoy more
24 Cocktails for cookouts BY STEVE DOLLAR
26 What to do in Portland, Maine
30 Q+A: Women changing
South African wine Buying Guide
32 A world of sparkling wines 86 California 128 Germany
34 Nothing tricky about a rickey 108 Oregon 130 Northeast Italy
30
36 Clink-clink in Helsinki 112 Washington 131 Hungary South African road warriors
38 Make a no-waste bread salad 114 Chile 132 Croatia
40 A new look at a French label 117 Australia 132 Bulgaria
42 Basil beyond basics 118 Portugal 133 Georgia
122 Spain 134 Spirits
123 Alsace 135 Beer
126 Bordeaux

24
For grillin’ and chillin’

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

 VOLUME 30, NUMBER 7

PUBLISHER & EDITOR Adam M. Strum

SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT OF PUBLISHING WINE ENTHUSIAST MEDIA Jay Spaleta
EDITORIAL
EXECUTIVE EDITOR Susan Kostrzewa
MANAGING EDITOR Joe Czerwinski
SENIOR EDITOR Lauren Buzzeo
SENIOR EDITOR Lana Bortolot
SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR Layla Schlack
EUROPEAN EDITOR Roger Voss
ITALIAN EDITOR Kerin O’Keefe
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS, WINE Michael Schachner, Paul Gregutt, Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon, Matt Kettmann,
Sean P. Sullivan, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Anne Krebiehl
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR, FOOD Nils Bernstein
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR, TRAVEL Alexis Korman
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS, LIFESTYLE & ENTERTAINING Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR, BUSINESS Leslie Gevirtz
SPIRITS EDITOR Kara Newman
WInemag.com
DIGITAL MANAGING EDITOR Marina Vataj
SENIOR DIGITAL EDITOR Jameson Fink
ASSOCIATE DIGITAL EDITOR Dylan Garret
SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Elyse Estrella
CREATIVE
PRINT
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli
ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon
DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Megan Baggott
DIRECTOR OF PRINT PRODUCTION Barbara Gianisis
DIGITAL
DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR Julia Lea
ASSOCIATE DIGITAL DESIGNER Matthew Dimas
TASTING
TASTING DIRECTOR Lauren Buzzeo
SENIOR TASTING COORDINATOR Fiona Adams
TASTING COORDINATORS Carrie Dykes, Angela Kahn
EDITORIAL OFFICES
HEADQUARTERS 200 Summit Lake Drive, Valhalla, NY 10595 TEL: 914.345.9463 editor@wineenthusiast.net
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CHAIRMAN Adam M. Strum
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PRESIDENT Hank Rosen
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Wine Enthusiast (ISSN 1078.3318) is published monthly with one special issue, a total of 13 times per year. Wine Enthusiast may occasionally publish a double issue. Double issues count as
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8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
REDEFINING
THE MASTERPIECE
Artistry flourishes in the glass and on the
table at this year’s top wine restaurants.

T
he artistry of wine and food continues that we love. From Minneapolis’ Walker Art fruit beers and kinder, gentler IPAs, you’ll want to
to evolve in America, as innovative Museum to New York City’s Museum of Modern crack open one of these artful brews this season.
winemakers, chefs and wine directors Art and beyond, the world of art extends from the Also in the issue: cookout cocktails (page 24),
push the envelope on the sensory and gallery to the dinner table. Destination: Portland, Maine (page 26) and an
aesthetic experience of the culinary world. Speaking of masterpieces, the grand cru wines interview with three South African women who
As we explore this from France’s Alsace wine are pushing cultural change in the wine world
year’s 100 Best Wine region, among the world’s (page 30).
Restaurants from The link between art, most refined and food- Cheers!
coast to coast (page wine and food becomes even friendly libations, are
46), we celebrate the more direct in notable the focus of Contributing
creative flair that museum restaurants, a trend Editor Anne Krebiehl,
connects our winners, MW’s piece on page 74.
this year that we love.
each notable for their Highlighting the glorious
progressive approach results from the region’s ADAM STRUM
to what’s on the plate and in the glass. Using the cool climate, ample sunshine and distinctive EDITOR & PUBLISHER
kitchen and cellar as their studios, these eateries terroirs, she tells you what to drink and who @adamstrum
influence trends that extend into the homes of to watch.
gourmands nationwide. Looking for alternative summer pours? Look
The link between art, wine and food no further than Senior Editor and Tasting Director
SUSAN KOSTRZEWA
becomes even more direct in the growing number Lauren Buzzeo’s tips on this year’s most intriguing EXECUTIVE EDITOR
of notable museum restaurants, a trend this year beer trends (page 82). From specialty malts to @suskostrzewa

EVAN SUNG; MEG BAGGOTT; TATIANA CHEKRYZHOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK

COMING NEXT MONTH

Host a Wine Party Wine Down Under Paso’s Young Guns Oregon Origins A New Take On Tapas
Host like a pro in the Explore Melbourne’s Young winemakers are Oregon boasts the Chefs give us fresh
comfort of your own playground on the modernizing California oldest vines in the takes on classic
home. We’ll suggest Mornington Peninsula. classics with artistic country, from Pinot tapas like tortillas
flights for you to With more than 50 wine labels and bold Gris and Tempranillo and croquetas, plus
serve, along with tips wineries, it's known flavors. We’ll give to a century-old Spanish pairing
and tools of the trade for its Pinot Noir, you a look at the Zinfandel vineyard. suggestions with
that guests will be Chardonnay and Pinot exciting wines from Here’s a look at who’s the country’s food-
sure to remember. Gris. Here’s where to these wild-at-heart producing the best friendly wines.
stay, play and drink. newcomers. old-vine juice.

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

 click.discover.connect
WINEMAG.COM

PODCAST
Listen up! Hosted by rotating Are Wine Terms
W.E. editors, our podcast series Legit or Bulls&*(?
features the best and brightest Sommeliers talk
about which wine
personalities from the food and terms matter, and
beverage worlds. We tap into which are more fluff
all the stories and sips that than function.
make this culture so tantalizing.

Terroir-Driven Food Visit

W.E. Editors Layla Schlack and winemag.com/podcast
Nils Bernstein get to the bottom to listen
of how some of the world’s
best foods are impacted by the Download On:
places in which they’re made.

Follow us @WineEnthusiast

A Sip
Session with
Supermodel
ILLUSTRATION: MONICA SIMON

Wine Myths Debunked

Veronica Webb Lauren Buzzeo, W.E.’s
The fashion icon, tasting director and
blogger and wine senior editor, answers
lover talks about burning questions and
her passions. debunks the most
common myths.

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

 out&about
SIPS AND SNAPS AROUND THE GLOBE

A WEEKEND OF VIVE LE VIN

SAND AND SIPS Wine Enthusiast Tasting

Florida was home to the Director Lauren Buzzeo

annual four-day South Walton led a lively tasting and
Wine & Food Festival, of panel at NYC’s French
which Wine Enthusiast is a Institute Alliance
media sponsor. Seminars, Française (FIAF) on the
walkaround tastings and subject of “The French
private patron dinners were Revolution: France’s New
capped by the successful Trailblazers” as part of a
Destin Charity Wine Auction. joint W.E./FIAF series.

Florent Rouve, W.E. Tasting

Director Lauren Buzzeo,
Patrick Léon and Louis Fabre
Laurent Gruet and W.E. Senior Digital
Editor Jameson Fink

A private patron dinner

DEEP ROOTS
An annual wine dinner at
Smithsonian’s National
Museum of American
History was dedicated
to Latino winemakers.
Gustavo Brambila, Ceja
Vineyards, Mi Sueño Winery,
Maldonado Vineyards and
Robledo Family Vineyards Gustavo Brambila, John Gray, Reynaldo Robledo, Amelia Ceja, Pati
Patrons Jack and Candis Wilson

ALEXANDER PHOTO & FILM; CHASE ALEXANDER; CREEK STUDIOS; EAST PASS IMAGES;
were honored. Jinich, Warren Winiarski, Hugo Maldonado and Rolando Herrera

Lazaro Robledo, Steve Velasquez,

Winiarski, Reynaldo Robledo,
Paula Johnson and Maldonado

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

 C’EST [SAY]
CLASSIQUE
PENNY DE LOS SANTOS

While some say America’s love affair with the

French bistro has been newly rekindled, in these
Francophile places, it never stopped. >>

WINEMAG.COM | 19
 FRENCH FOLLIES

PLAN BISTRO
You don’t have to leave America
to go on this Tour de France.

T
he James Beard Foundation recently
bestowed its best new restaurant award
on Le Coucou, a Manhattan French
dining spot, confirming that for all its
roller coaster rides on the food-trend cycle, French
cuisine is here to stay. We can thank French-born
and trained chefs for spreading the delicious word
throughout pockets of the country. Here are
a few recommendations featuring
classic menus and delicious
wines served with distinc-
tive Gallic personality.
—Dave DeSimone

LAS VEGAS may seem an

odd spot for French cuisine,
but acclaimed Alsace-born
Chef Hubert Keller has always

PENNY DE LOS SANTOS, STYLING BY MARIANA VELASQUEZ

played culinary long shots with
great success. His restaurant
Fleur, inside the Mandalay Bay
Resort and Casino, bends the
rules of French cuisine and also
features traditional dishes.

TRY: A riff on traditional escargots,

this version features black garlic
butter, parsley, cherry tomatoes and
puff pastry crouton, and pairs well
with an Alsace Pinot Blanc, a fresh
white with mineral notes from the
chef’s home region in France.

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017


PHILADELPHIA’S Center
City East neighborhood is
home to Zinc Bistro, created
by French native (and Chopped
alum) Olivier Desaintmartin,
and is named for the 1919 zinc
bar top that he purchased from
a Parisian bistro.
“We’re a comfortable
neighborhood spot where
guests who have visited
France find familiar
flavors and feeling,” says
Desaintmartin of his cozy
40-seat restaurant.
TRY: The St. Jacques et Crevettes
Provençale, which combines scallops
and shrimp in a sauce scented with
herbes de Provence and light garlic.
It pairs beautifully with a crisp, full-
flavored Provence rosé.
PITTSBURGH’S revitalized
East Liberty neighborhood
NEW YORK’S Boerum Hill
is home away from home
for French native Frédéric
Rongier, co-owner of Paris
66, a charming 50-seat
bistro, appointed with French
commercial posters and
photos of Paris.
“We succeed because
we bring the best from
France and offer it here,”
says Rongier, who was
born in Paris’s 13th
arrondissement and
grew up in Brittany.
TRY: French-born Chef de Cuisine
Larry Laffont has a deft touch with
foie de veau a pan-seared veal liver
in red wine and balsamic reduction
sauce. It pairs well with Crozes-
Hermitage, an earthy, Syrah-based
red from the Northern Rhône that
has ample dark fruit, fresh acidity
and refined tannins. Or, for a lighter
meal, try cuisses de grenouilles: plump
frog legs sautéed in butter, garlic and
parsley. It’s popular paired with a crisp
Mâcon-Villages Chardonnay.
neighborhood in Brooklyn
is French bistro central, and
where Bordeaux-born Bruno
ALABAMA native Chef
Laclide established Bacchus
Bistro & Wine Bar in 2003.
Starting as a modest BYOB
bistro, it grew into a fully
licensed wine bar with a
secluded back patio. Laclide
offers wines from all major
French regions, with a focus
on sustainable, organic and
biodynamic producers.
“We’re a traditional
French bistro without any
pretension,” says Laclide.
“We rely on outstanding,
consistent suppliers and
take pride in delivering
quality food and wines at
fair prices.”
TRY: The L’Onglet, a Black Angus
hanger steak served with sautéed
mushrooms and Sarladaises potatoes,
prepared with garlic and duck fat. Pair
it with a refreshing Bourgogne Pinot
Noir that has just a bit of tannin.
Frank Stitt trained in France,
working in vineyards and
restaurants before coming
home and opening restaurants
in Birmingham. Chez Fonfon,
his French bistro that occupies
a restored building in the Five
Points historic district, delivers
fresh, classic cuisine and a
terrific wine list. Stitt says that
customers enjoy the bistro’s
“fun-loving spirit.”
“The boules court out
back is a beloved spot on
an afternoon to watch our
Birmingham world go by,”
Stitt says.
TRY: Stitt’s popular pan-seared
trout with brown butter and capers,
a dish from France’s Jura Mountains,
matches well with young Savagnins—
aromatic whites with pure, fruity
flavors—from the same region.
WINEMAG.COM | 21
 LIQUID CHARITY
GREAT WAYS TO
GULP ’N’ GIVE
Charitable giving comes in many pours.
Thirsting for positive change? When it
comes to giving back, the outpouring
of goodwill from these do-gooders
will have you clinking your glass to
kindness. —Amy Zavatto
22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
✢ CELLAR ANGELS: Online wine sellers Martin and
Denise Cody don’t just want to help you pick the best
from Sonoma and Napa producers, they also want to
help you give back. The Codys donate 10 percent of the
gross proceeds to a range of partner charities including
support for military troops and their families, home-
less populations, health and education.
✢ EQUALITY WINES: Not all wines are created equal,
but Matt Grove and Jim Obergefell believe that the
same doesn’t apply to people. The duo partners with
like-minded producers to make four wines annually
that give back, like their 19th Amendment Sauvignon
Blanc, from which $2 of every bottle sale is donated to
the League of Women Voters.
✢ NASTY WOMAN WINES: Meg Murray’s Nasty Wom-
an Wines was born on Election Day 2016. Her Pave the
Way Chardonnay and Pantsuit Pinot Noir may have
been inspired by candidate Hillary Clinton, but her
nonpartisan mission is to bolster women by donating
20 percent of profits to such causes as the Women in
Public Service Project.
✢ PROUD POUR WINE: Wine for bees and oysters?
We’ll drink to that! For every bottle sold of Proud Pour
Sauvignon Blanc, founder Berlin Crystal Kelly pays for
100 oysters to be restored to the sea via 10 national or-
ganizations, including the Billion Oyster Project. Sales
from the company’s Pinot Noir support replanting of
wildflowers for bee habitats—not a bad buzz.
MEG BAGGOTT, PAPER ILLUSTRATION BY MONICA SIMON
✢ THE OREGON PUBLIC HOUSE: In Portland, Oregon,
the Public House features 12 rotating beer taps and a
globally inspired pub menu. This volunteer-run, not-
for-profit establishment donates all profits after oper-
ating costs to 12 causes like fighting childhood hunger
and illiteracy, and its local Woodlawn neighborhood.
✢ SHMALTZ BREWING: Based in Clifton Park, New
York, this brewery created SHE’Brew, a limited-edition
IPA commemorating the 100th anniversary of wom-
en’s suffrage in New York State. Owner Jeremy Cowan
says the brewery will donate $2 from every case and
keg sold, split between Planned Parenthood Mohawk
Hudson and the Pink Boots Society scholarship fund.
  




 

 

   


Please enjoy our wines responsibly. © 2017 Meiomi Wines, Acampo, CA

S O N O M A • M O N T E R E Y • S A N TA BA R BA R A

W W W. M E I O M I . C O M
 HIT THE SAUCE

BETTER COCKTAILS A
ny wine lover knows that the
right beverage can help your
food taste better, but many
assume cocktails aren’t up to

FOR YOUR COOKOUT

the job. Top bartenders give their tips
for the best mixed-drink pairings at your
summer cookout. —Maggie Hoffman

Summer staples get into the spirit.

WITH BARBECUE, GO SMOKY
The smoky, savory flavors of mezcal, made from
roasted agave hearts, make the Mexican spirit
barbecue’s soulmate. Jeffrey Knott, of The Fish
House and Atlas Oyster House in Pensacola, Florida,
suggests shaking mezcal with honey and ginger,
plus something tart and dry, like grapefruit, to cut its
richness. Top it off with soda, which will tone down
the intensity a bit and quench the thirst of quick-
drinking guests.

WITH BURGERS, BRING THE BITTER

Bitterness helps a drink hold its own next to a robust
dish, as it allows the palate to reset between bites
and highlights a burger’s juicy texture. Steva Casey, of
Swingshift in Birmingham, Alabama, recommends an
easy highball of dry vermouth and soda with a few
shakes of warmly spiced Angostura; or the classic Old
Pal, made with equal parts rye, bittersweet Campari
and dry vermouth.

WITH CHARCUTERIE, GET SALTY

Sherry’s “salty notes perfectly mimic those found in
cured meats,” says Laura Newman of Sweet Polly in
Brooklyn, New York. Pick a drink that won’t overpower
charcuterie’s flavors. Two suggestions: the Bamboo,
which brings together equal parts Sherry and dry
vermouth (with a few drops of orange bitters), or the
richer Adonis, which calls for sweet vermouth.

WITH LOBSTER ROLLS, TALK TART

“You just need acidity with lobster,” says Adam
Robinson of Deadshot in Portland, Oregon. His

MEG BAGGOTT, BEVERAGE STLYING BY TRACY ALLAN/Q36

advice: A classic and refreshing French 75, featuring
gin, lemon and sparkling wine. The chilled bubbly and
tart citrus provide the brightness this dish needs.

WITH CHILLED SALMON,

DRINK YOUR HERBS & SPICES
For delicate summer seafood dishes, Nicolas Torres,
of Lazy Bear in San Francisco, suggests a spin on the
martini that features equal parts caraway-scented
aquavit and dry vermouth. The vermouth boosts the
herbal flavor of the drink, and adds much-needed
body and acidity. Just stir the two with ice and a bit of
Cardamaro, then strain into chilled glasses.

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

 MAINE EVENT

destination While it has fleece, locally

roasted coffee and craft
brewers a-plenty, Portlandia this

PORTLAND
About one-tenth of the size of its West Coast
counterpart, this Maine city holds its own when
it comes to dining, drinking and culture.
is not. This is Portland, Maine, a
thriving New England city with a
beautiful working port and salt-
of-the-earth residents. The city
claims it has more restaurants
per capita than anywhere else in
America, so you’ll never hunger
for something delicious here.
—Ari Bendersky

eat Boothbay Harbor

D
on’t miss classic restau-
rants like Fore Street (or
its sister spot, Street and
Co.), Central Provisions or Eventide
Oyster Co. for the best of Maine’s
local bounty, with rotating farm-and
ocean-to-table menus, and shared
plates. Trattoria Fanny, the latest
eatery from Vinland owner David

4
Levi, offers solid Italian classics. Tipo,
from Central Provisions owners Chris
and Paige Gould, features wood-
fired pizzas, house-made pasta and
a raw section on the menu featuring
hour getaway
oysters, crudo and carpaccio. Head to
East Bayside for cross-cultural noodle
Take I-295 north to the breath-
dishes at The Honey Paw (lobster taking Route 1 coastal highway
wontons, handmade wok-fried to get a feel for Maine’s New KERRY MICHAELS / FLYING POINT

noodles with Maine peekytoe crab) England roots. Visit towns like
or hit the new Japanese gastropub Wiscasset, Boothbay Harbor,
Izakaya Minato. You can’t visit Maine Rockland and Camden for quaint
without having at least one lobster cafés, abundant antique shops,
roll, so head to Fishermen’s Grill in stately lighthouses, gleaming
harbors filled with gorgeous
the Deering Center neighborhood for
sailboats and, of course, plenty of
one of the best.
lobster shacks.
Trattoria Fanny

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

 World’s Favorite Malbec*
Located at the foothills of the Andes Mountains in Mendoza, Argentina, Trapiche sources its
Malbec from prized vineyards at over 3,000 feet of elevation, resulting in rich yet balanced Malbecs.
Founded in 1883, Trapiche prides itself on a legacy of quality, which today can be enjoyed through
its portfolio of high-scoring, award-winning wines.
*Caucasia, based on Calendar Year 2015 Malbec exports and domestic shipments.

POINTS POINTS POINTS

AMONGST WORLD’S TOP 50 MOST ADMIRED WINERIES

2004 2006 2011 2012 2014 2015
destination
PORTLAND
Portland Dry Goods Co.
shop
S
kip the chain stores for shops that feature
locally (and internationally) crafted goods.
In the Old Port neighborhood, Portland
Trading Co., has everything from Taschen coffee-
table books and Farmers’ Hand Cream to classic
Timex watches and beard wax. Along the water-
front, stock up at Portland Dry Goods Co. for
chunky fisherman’s sweaters, sturdy leather boots
and that beautiful clutch you didn’t know you
needed. Little Giant is a general store in the West
End neighborhood from Briana and Andrew Volk,
owners of popular cocktail bar Portland Hunt &
Alpine Club. Here, you’ll find locally sourced dairy
and eggs, bags of Tandem Coffee, fresh sand-
wiches and Old World-leaning wines. A namesake
restaurant next door is slated to open this summer.
Audiophiles should visit Enterprise Records and
Moody Lords, two shops located downtown along
Congress Street that specialize in vintage vinyl.
Find unique blends at Homegrown Herb & Tea.
Woodford Food & Beverage
28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
see
T
he Portland Museum of
Art, home to a vast number
of Winslow Homer’s works,
underwent a $2.7 million upgrade
to its three buildings to better
showcase an 18,000-piece collec-
tion. Wander around the Old Port
Old Port district neighborhood and soak in the city’s
history. Hit the sprawling 70-mile
system of Portland Trails, where
you can run, bike or hike. Also be sure
to hit the Eastern Promenade. Get
out on the water with surf lessons
from Maine Surfers Union, a ferry
(or kayak) to Peaks Island for
unparalleled ocean views, or trap
lobsters with Lucky Catch Cruises.
drink
In
Portland, you’re never far from a pint of local brew. Get your fill at Novare Res Bier Café
in the Old Port, with a deep global beer list, but also a solid focus on Maine brewers. Up the
street at Portland Hunt & Alpine Club, site of well-made craft cocktails, a vast whiskey
list and Scandinavian-inspired fare. At Drifters Wife, a wine bar/restaurant inside quaint Munjoy Hill KERRY MICHAELS / FLYING POINT
wine shop Maine & Loire, you’ll find a fantastic selection of organic and biodynamic wines. MJ’s Wine
Bar offers a welcoming, unfussy spot to enjoy wine with cheese and olives. Guests can sniff out the
aromas in their wines from some 30 jars featuring typical wine scents like fruits, leather, tobacco and
spice. Also featured: vinyl records you can select off the shelf to play. Slightly farther out in Deering
Center, Woodford Food & Beverage looks like an retro diner on the outside, but inside offers a sophis-
ticated menu of local fare and a focused wine list that features a handful of “table wines” that you can
take to go in a branded bottle.
 Explore the Mountains of California’s North Coast

 






 




 


 





   










! ! 

"
!

  
#$



www.lakecountywinegrape.org/distinct

KEY
INFLUENCERS
South African women are taking the reins
in making and promoting wine.
T
he Ovambo tribe in southern Africa has
a proverb that goes something like this:
“If you do not have patience, you cannot
make beer.” The same could be said for
the emerging group of women making wine in South
Africa, whose time has come. But don’t think for a
moment they’re making “feminine wines”: The three
interviewed here have a vision beyond the bottle.
Senior Editor Lana Bortolot spoke with Ntsiki
Biyela, owner of Aslina wine and the first black female
winemaker in South Africa; Vivian Kleynhans, chief
executive of African Roots Wines, producer of Seven
Sisters Wines; and Denise Stubbs, business director
of Thokozani, a shareholder empowerment project
that produces Ovation and Thokozani wines.
Left to right:
Ntsiki Biyela,
Vivian Kleynhans
and Denise Stubbs
30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
MIND YOUR BUSINESS
You’ve said the wine industry has
been male dominated for a long
time. Is that changing?
Ntsiki Biyela: There are more women
and black people coming on board
[but] there [are] still very few
women compared to a number of
men. Acceptance at the beginning
was not easy, but as people get to
know you, you become friends.
As an award-winning winemaker,
did your achievements give
you a particular advantage or
responsibility?
NB: The title gave me an advantage
and the recognition for my wines.
There is always a responsibility we,
as humans, have toward ourselves
and others so we can show the way
to those who have no access to where
we are.   who created them and for what
What’s been the greatest reward of
your business?
Denise Stubbs: I trained and uplift-
ed several general workers on the
farm, and today, they have senior
positions and tell our story about
Thokozani. They are also sharehold-
ers in our business: Ownership and
measurements are vital.
We became the first [Black
Economic Empowerment] wine
company in South Africa to sign
exclusively with the Woolworths
[national retail chain] in 2015. This
was history, not because of our color
or scorecards, but because of quality
and our change in the industry.
The wines of Seven Sisters are
named for you and each of your six
sisters. What do you want the brand
to say about women and family?
Vivian Kleynhans: Women are
powerful human beings. However,
they always have to be mindful of
purpose—only then will they be
completely fulfilled and satisfied.
We are paving the way for our
children and need to leave a legacy
of integrity behind.
“There is always
a responsibility we,
as humans, have
toward ourselves
MAREE LOUW
and others.”
—Ntsiki Biyela
 Y E A RS...
a legacy in the making

1829 St. Helena Hwy. Rutherford, CA

(707) 963-2784 | www.grgich.com
Open 9:30 a.m. - 4:30 p.m.
 POP THAT CORK

FIZZY FOREIGNERS L
ooking for everyday bubbles that pair well with food?
While Champagne may produce coveted wines, many
other regions of the world offer comparable quality
and value. These lesser-known sparklers will add a
Try these other-worldly sparkling wines. little glitz to your dinner table. —Jessica Dupuy

DRINK
Crémant d’Alsace, France: Jean-
Baptiste Adam NV Brut Rosé, $25
About 200 miles east of
Champagne, Alsace uses similar
standards to make crémants from
mostly Pinot Blanc, though Char-
donnay and Pinot Noir are allowed.
The drier, warmer and sunnier “It’s hard to beat tomato and basil
climate produces round wines that
EAT panzanella with this when tomatoes
are generous in flavor. This one—as are in peak season.” —Andy Chabot,
with all rosé Crémant d’Alsace—is director of food and beverage, Black-
100% Pinot Noir. berry Farm, Walland, Tennessee.

DRINK
Kent, England: Gusbourne 2011
Brut Reserve, $60
Though wine has been produced
in England for centuries, it’s only
during the past decade that produc-
tion has ascended to international
standards. Southern England
boasts nearly 500 vineyards and “With a distinctive oceanic influence,
about 135 wineries. With similar
EAT this wine has expressive mineral and
climate and soils to Champagne, it’s floral characters that are perfect for
no surprise that sparkling wine has fried chicken.” —Paula Rester, bever-
been the focus. age director, Mattie’s, Austin, Texas.

DRINK
Stellenbosch, South Africa:
Saltare NV Méthode Cap
Classique Brut Reserve, $17
A premium wine category for South
Africa, Méthode Cap Classique uses
the traditional-method process
introduced to the Cape by French “A perfect fit for roasted pork
Huguenots in the 17th century. As EAT tenderloin with lightly spiced apple
South Africa only produces about and quince relish.” —James Tidwell,
2.5 million bottles, it’s well worth MS, beverage director, Four Seasons
the find to enjoy a unique wine. Resort and Club, Dallas, Texas.

DRINK
Franciacorta, Italy: Contadi
Castaldi NV Brut Rosé, $25
Similar to Champagne in terms of
production, grape selection and
aging requirements, the warmer
climate and unique soils in Fran-
ciacorta make for wines with notes “There’s nothing more Italian than
of green apple, pear and quince, as EAT eating cured meat and drinking
well as floral elements and percep- sparkling wine.” —Geoff Kruth, MS,
tible minerality. president, Guild of Sommeliers.

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

 COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH

RICKEY
BUSINESS
This blackberry-lime cocktail will
help you keep your cool.

A
ugust may seem like an unusual
time to feature a drink from
Aspen, best known as a ski
town. But the region hums even
when the ski lifts are still, and
the Colorado mountains provide a stunning
backdrop for summer sipping.
Enter this classic Rickey, updated with peak-
summer fruit and a splash of Prosecco. Created
by Jason Galang when he was beverage director
for Aspen Kitchen (he’s since moved to a New
York City venue), this drink showcases plump
summer blackberries and Woody Creek Vodka,
a local potato vodka made just northwest of
Aspen. The end result is a sweet-tart, lightly
fizzy highball just right for cooling off when the
mercury spikes. —Kara Newman

BLACKBERRY LIME RICKEY

Courtesy Jason Galang, beverage director, Aspen Kitchen, Aspen, Colorado

3 large blackberries
2 ounces Woody Creek Vodka
½ ounce agave nectar
½ ounce lime juice
Splash of Prosecco
Lime wheel, for garnish
In a mixing glass, muddle the black-
berries. Add vodka, agave nectar,
AARON GRAUBART
lime juice and ice. Cover, shake well
and strain into a rocks glass over
fresh ice. Top with Prosecco. Gar-
nish with lime wheel.

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

 FINN AND DANDY
HEL-DRINK-I
Where to grab a well-made
cocktail in the Finnish capital
H
elsinki may seem a bit far to travel for a quality
cocktail, but with a little isolation comes much
creativity. The cocktail scene here rivals most
major cities around the world, but with an
advantage: Nordic ingredients like pine, birch,
cloudberry and even fish bones, which impart aromas of the
sea. So if Finland’s on your summer itinerary, hit these spots
for a seasonal drink. —Ari Bendersky
36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
✦ AUTHENTIC + FRESH
Inside the Hotel Lilla Roberts, the elegant Lilla e.
features aesthetically stunning drinks focused on
Nordic ingredients and a zero-waste menu. The
Vesillelasku, made with pine resin-infused Johnny
Walker Black Label and Lagavulin 16-year-old single-
malt Scotch, tells a story through its dry ice-diffused
“sea smell” garnish (dried kombu, fish bones and pine
needles). Easier to absorb may be Këvat, the Nordic
Spring, made with ground-ivy-infused Absolut Elyx
Vodka, St-Germain, white balsamic vinegar and a
splash of natural sparkling water packed
with minerals.
✦ SUMMER SLING
At A21 Decades, owner Timo Siitonen helped start
Helsinki’s modern Nordic cocktail movement, and he
continues to push it forward. Browse the Boilermaker
and Gin & Tonic sections, but settle into a summer day
with the Vehnäoras (Żubrówka Bison Grass Vodka,
London dry gin, green Chartreuse, Jeju Hannam tea,
wheatgrass, green botanicals, herbs and lemon). Or
you can choose to soak up some city birch with the
Koivu 3.0 (Cuban white rum, birch syrup, linden flower,
common yarrow, lime and carbonated birch water).
✦ HOLIDAY HANGOUT
One of Helsinki’s top chefs, Richard McCormick
travels the globe in search of inspiration. So it makes
sense that his bar, Holiday (pictured), which opened
in 2016, feels like, well, a holiday. Hang out on the
outdoor terrace that overlooks the harbor and sip
drinks like Kale Champagne (Champagne, kale,
cucumber and white wine vinegar) or the Helsinki
Chili Mule (Finlandia Grapefruit Vodka, chili, ginger,
lime and ginger beer).
✦ CATEGORY THEORY
Rusty Bar, just steps off Central Market on
Katajanokka Island is the newest hotspot from the
Son of a Punch crew, which also owns acclaimed bars
Liberty or Death and Trillby & Chadwick Detective
Agency. Its deep cocktail lineup is broken up into
categories like “Strong & Herbal” and “Long & Fresh.”
Try the vodka-based Vegugated, with Lillet, lime,
basil, avocado oil and chickpea foam. Or maybe the
smoky and strong It’s Always Sunny in Philly is more
your jam. It commands your attention with Tequila,
mezcal, pink grapefruit, lime, agave, salt
and red pepper.
 RECIPE OF THE MONTH

SCRAP HAPPY
WINE PAIRING
Barton & Guestier’s Passeport Bordeaux
Blanc by Laurent Prada
Don’t let the recipe fool you—while this salad
is fresh, green and herby, it’s also fairly hearty.
Turn odds and ends into a stellar salad. Look to a wine that will similarly offer the best of
both worlds. This one is soft, with ripe yellow and

A
founding partner of Copenhagen’s world-renowned restaurant
white stone fruits that are balanced by bright
Noma, Mads Refslund is experienced in turning foraged and acidity. It will play along nicely with the various
underappreciated ingredients into ornate meals. In his new elements of the dish.
cookbook, he tackles the timely issue of food waste, encouraging
readers to make delicious meals from ingredients they typically throw
away. It’s not just about using the whole thing—think cauliflower stems
and roasted watermelon seeds—but at different stages:
wilted herbs, stale bread, under- and overripe berries.
Raid that fridge. —Nils Bernstein

*CARROT-TOP PESTO
1 packed cup carrot tops (from about 6
carrots), finely chopped

PENNY DE LOS SANTOS; FOOD & PROP STYLING BY MARIANA VELASQUEZ

BREAD SALAD WITH CARROT-TOP PESTO
Courtesy Mads Refslund and Tama Matsuoka Wong, from Scraps,
Wilt + Weeds (Hachette Book Group)
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 cups 2-inch chunks of day-old
bread, crusts removed
3 cups vegetable scraps, such as
tomatoes, cucumbers and squash,
raw or cooked
1–2 cups chopped fresh herb stems and
scraps
½ cup Carrot Top Pesto*
In a large skillet, heat the oil over
medium heat. Add the bread
chunks, stir to coat, and toast,
stirring occasionally, for about 10
minutes, until lightly browned.
Transfer to a large bowl and add the
vegetable and herb scraps. Add the
pesto and toss to coat. Season with
salt and pepper and serve. Serves 4.
½ packed cup packed parsley leaves,
finely chopped
½ cup finely grated Gruyère cheese
½ cup toasted salted walnuts, finely
chopped
Grated zest of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon
juice
1 garlic clove, minced
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon sugar
Mix all the ingredients in a medium
bowl. Leftover pesto can be refriger-
ated for up to 1 week.

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

© 2016 Hahn Family Wines

In 1980 we had big dreams.

Why stop now?
Lucienne
Single Vineyard Pinot Noirs
Long ago, Nicolaus “Nicky” Hahn set his sights on producing wines
of distinction from Monterey County. At the time, the eastern slope
of the Santa Lucia Mountains was unknown but with its well-drained
soils, Pacific winds and fog, and warm summer days, it was a clear bet
that Pinot Noir would grow well.

Recognizing the area’s unique qualities, Nicky led an effort with

other neighbor growers to establish a new appellation and in 1991,
Santa Lucia Highlands was born.

Now, with our four certified sustainable estate vineyards planted

primarily to Pinot Noir, we celebrate Santa Lucia Highlands with
carefully crafted, single vineyard selections. Consistently awarded
90 + points, these wines are signature Nicky Hahn. Sometimes, big
dreams do come true.

Visit our Estate

37700 Foothill Road
Soledad, CA 93960

T
echnically speaking, all
French wines are vins de
France. But some choose
to be officially labeled
Vin de France, a relatively
new category of generally low-priced
wines. Established in 2010, the category
replaced Vin de Table, the lowest rung on
the quality ladder.
Producers of all levels and legacies
are using the new designation, including
some of France’s most heralded names,
who are offering quality wines at varying
price points.
One such example is Margaux’s
celebrated Château Palmer. Château
Palmer, however, is no stranger to
the concept: It created its Historical
XIX Century Blend red wine in 2004,
harkening back to the era when, in poor
vintages, rich Rhône Valley wine was
added to the lighter Bordeaux.  winery makes premium Châteauneuf-du-
Under the old system, Château Palmer
circumvented label restrictions against
40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
SAVVY SIPS
VIN DE FRANCE
Upgraded table wines often
come with impressive legacies.
mentioning vintage by printing a lot
number, “L20.04.” (a sly reference to
the harvest year) on the wine’s label.
That coding continues under the new
classification, the most recent vintage
being L20.14. Its price—the highest for
any Vin de France wine—ranges from
$250 to $300 and  demonstrates the
legitimacy of this new category.
Producers of all levels…are
using the new designation,
including some of France’s
most heralded names.
At the other end of the spectrum are
white, red and rosé wines from the Perrin
family, owners of the acclaimed Château
de Beaucastel. While their signature
Pape that can sell for $100 or more, the
family’s long expertise in blending Rhône
Valley and Provence grapes delivers the
value that was originally intended for the
Vin de France category in their La Vieille
Ferme label, priced from $6 to $10.
The Institut National de l’Origine et
de la Qualité (INAO), the organization
that regulates French agriculture, didn’t
foresee that the category would be used
to solve a legal problem. But that’s just
what Jacky Blot, of Domaine de la Taille
Aux Loups, and François Chidaine, of Clos
Baudoin, did. The Vouvray appellation
was rescinded for their wines, which
were grown in Vouvray but made at
their wineries in Montlouis. Faced with
decertification of their valuable Vouvray
Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC)
wines, Blot and Chidaine decided to label
them as Vin de France. Rather than selling
into grocery chains at lower prices, they
kept the Vouvray appellation prices of
$30 to $34, giving consumers another
reason to look beyond the humble label.
—John Foy
 PARED-DOWN PAIRING

ALL HAIL THE KING

PAIR IT
“Basil is truly one of the world’s most flexible
herbs,” says Bruce Achtermann, head of
the beverage program at The Herbfarm in
Woodinville, Washington. The restaurant’s tasting
To know basil is to revere it. menus often focus on herbs from its gardens,
which include more than a dozen basil varieties.
“Some basils are more citrus driven, others are

N
othing screams “August
farmers’ market” like the
spicy-sweet scent of fresh
basil. The name comes from
the Greek basilikón, meaning “royal,”
and, indeed, it’s often referred to as the
royal herb or king of herbs. Basil is a
member of the mint family and a good
replacement in juleps and smashes.
And stop arguing: Both BAYZ-uhl and
BAZ-uhl are accepted pronunciations.
—Nils Bernstein
more spicy in focus. If basil is your primary driver,
look to play off of the sharp green aromatics with
a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand or Chile’s
Casablanca Valley. If it’s used more as a spice, your
options are endless.”
Achtermann recommends Champagne or a
domestic blanc de blancs with spicy Thai basil–
driven dishes. He suggests a buttery Chardonnay
with sweet Genovese basil and pasta, while a rich,
savory Bordeaux blend or Cabernet Franc pairs
well with steak crusted in several types of basil.
For dessert, he suggests tearing fresh cinnamon
basil over ice cream and serving Vin Santo.

Basil is considered an
aphrodisiac in Romania;
in Mexico it’s believed to
attract money.

The French phrase semer

le basilic (“to sow basil”)
means to slander or rant.

Basilcello is a bright
green, basil-infused
liqueur found in some
Italian homes.

In the U.S., the name

Basil—currently on a
sharp upswing—reached
its peak in 1911.

In Hinduism, Tulsi, or
“Holy Basil,” is a sacred
plant associated with the
god Vishnu.
DARREN MUIR / STOCKSY

The tallest basil plant

ever recorded was 11 feet
tall and grown in Crete.

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017


SMALL PACKAGES
The pleasures of the wine road are often off road.
W
hether you’re in the
wine business or just
the business of drink-
ing wine, it’s inevitable
that you’ll fall into a
rut. It’s easy to default to brand recogni-
tion, familiarity of grape variety or known
places like Bordeaux and Burgundy, Barolo
or Rioja.
As someone who’s had the privilege to
travel widely, I’ve never spurned the chance
to explore little-known wine regions. And
while those lesser-traveled roads have
had their bumps (quite literally, as in dirt
“roads” through cow pastures in Romania
on which we regularly encountered horse-
drawn carriages, or on one day, a tiny car
with a coffin strapped to its roof), they’ve
also had highlights.
A few years ago, I took a tour through
small regions in south and southwest
France. Some of the wines were great: tart,
crisp whites from Gaillac and Côtes de Gas-
cogne, rich, unique Malbecs from Cahors
and smoky, seductive reds made from
Négrette in Fronton.
Often, the stories of the winemakers
were just as compelling, whether it involved
the romantic reclaiming of a neglected es-
tate and lost grape varieties or the practical
44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
GREAT THINGS IN
struggle to gain recognition for a small re-
gion that doesn’t have, as one Malbec pro-
ducer told me, “Argentina’s sex and tango.”
Even in better-known regions, these
small stories exist. On a visit to Bordeaux’s
St-Emilion, I passed up a visit to a Premier
Grand Cru Classé estate to spend the after-
noon at Château Coutet, a winery whose
quirkiness is reflected in its long history and
its current stewardship.
While the other writer who
accompanied me on this
side trek was appalled at the
helter-skelter nature of the
vineyard, I was charmed.
I’d been told the vineyard was “One of the
most exciting terroirs in the world.” Though
owner Xavier David Beaulieu shrugs off such
titles, as well as rules.
His unprogrammed 32-acre plot amid
some of the appellation’s most prestigious
estates—Angelus, Beauséjour and Canon
among them—is biodynamic by default. It
has attracted rare birds and insects coming
for the even rarer flora, like the wild gladiola
and Roman tulips that have thrived here for
centuries.
While the other wine writer who accom-
panied me on this side trek was appalled at
the helter-skelter nature of the vineyard, I
was charmed.
As a reward for my intrepidness, Beaulieu
pulled out a rare bottle from his cave, made
by his grandmother, as a toast to adventur-
ers. I don’t know where that other writer
ended up that afternoon, but I stayed until
dark and until the strange night birds came
out and pecked at the grapes, with nary a
protest from Beaulieu.
As much as I know future wine travels
will include the manicured estates in mar-
quis regions, I also hope they include these
small, strange treasures. And the next time
you’re in a drinking rut, try something simi-
larly off the beaten track.
Senior Editor Lana
Bortolot is always
looking for the next
wine-stained stamp in
her passport.
 What you’ll find here is everything from innovative new
upstarts to famous restaurants at the top of their game. There
are informal restaurants with small wine lists where you
might pair an obscure Slovenian natural wine with a locally
foraged ingredient you’ve never tried, as well as destination
restaurants serving classic American food alongside a list
2017 offering thousands of bottles cellared for decades.

Aureole
Las Vegas
charliepalmer.com/aureole-las-vegas
A longtime wine destination, Aureole
Agern reopened this year after a renovation.
New York City The new space has a cozy lounge,
agernrestaurant.com approachable dining room and
Closed due to flood as of press time, exclusive terrace. Whichever experience
we’re confident Agern will re-emerge guests choose, they’ll be presented
stronger than ever. Chef Gunnar with two by-the-glass recommenda-
Gíslason’s New Nordic food meets tions for each of its 24 main dishes.
an all-American wine list created by
Sommelier Chad Walsh. The two share
a passion for sustainability, discovery
EVAN SUNG (AGERN); MATTHEW GILSON (ALINEA); GOURMANDJ (ALTER); MATT EDGE (ALTIER CRENN); AJ MEEKER (AVA GENE)

610 Magnolia and a powerful sense of place.

Louisville, KY Alter
610magnolia.com Miami
Edward Lee, the chef/owner now in altermiami.com
his 13th year at 610 Magnolia, keeps Wine lovers can splurge on dinners with
surprising guests with four- and pairings from small, global producers
six-course tasting menus that change at this hip Wynwood restaurant. Chef
weekly, as well as imaginative pairings Bradley Kilgore deserves as much buzz
like wagyu beef tongue and Austrian for his artful plating as the artisan-
sparkling rosé. focused wine list does.

Adega
San Jose, CA
adegarest.com
Adega is owned by a wine-importing
family from Portugal and likely boasts
the largest list of Portuguese wines
outside the country itself. The menu
features refined versions of traditional
dishes like arroz de pato and polvo á
lagareiro.
Alinea
Chicago
alinearestaurant.com
Following a top-to-bottom refresh in
2016, Alinea continues to push culinary
boundaries. Now with three distinct
dining experiences and price points,
customers have a variety of ways to
explore its outstanding wine program.
Atelier Crenn
San Francisco
ateliercrenn.com
In a new dining room with just eight
tables, this exclusive 15-course meal
now offers three wine-pairing options:
grand, reserve and rare cellar. Bar
Crenn, a Paris-inspired wine lounge,
opens next door this fall.
Ava Gene’s
Portland, OR
avagenes.com
The wine list may be sourced from Italy,
but Ava Gene’s Italian dishes feature
ingredients as local as its own garden.
Beverage Director Caryn Benke works
with family-owned wineries—many
biodynamic, organic or both—to select
bottles often not found elsewhere.

WINEMAG.COM | 53
 AMERICA’S I 100 BEST WINE RESTAURANTS I 2017

Bacchus The Barn at Barolo Grill Bern’s Steak House

Milwaukee
bacchusmke.com
Bacchus offers one of the Midwest’s
most extensive wine lists, with more
than 800 selections. Nick Wirth’s
American cuisine is best experienced
through the five- or seven-course
tasting menus that change nightly. End
with a local cheese board.
Blackberry Farm
Walland, TN
blackberryfarm.com
The luxurious Smoky Mountains resort
thrived under Mary Beall’s direction
after the death of her co-founder
husband, Sam. Andy Chabot oversees
the stellar list pairing wine with
Southern dishes that use ingredients
plucked from their own gardens.
Denver
barologrilldenver.com
Fifty glass options—half of them
premium pours via Coravin—provide an
introduction to the 2,200 selections in
the 14,000-bottle cellar, while annual
wine trips to Italy keep the entire team
knowledgeable about vintages and
producers.
Tampa, FL
bernssteakhouse.com
World-famous LA artist Tristan Eaton
gave this historic restaurant—which
houses the largest wine collection of
any restaurant in the world—a fresh
look with a massive mural that depicts
Florida panthers, Bacchus and racked
wine.

Vive Bestia
Los Angeles

la Luxe
bestiala.com

ANTHONY THALIER (BAD HUNTER); HEATHER ANNE THOMAS (BLACKBERRY FARM); AMY PEZZICARA (BERN'S); SIERRA PRESCOTT (BESTIA)
In its fifth year, Bestia remains one
of the most coveted reservations in
Bad Hunter LA’s super-hot Arts District. The wine
Chicago program has grown with the restau-
badhunter.com rant’s popularity and is constantly
Dan Snowden’s menu changes daily evolving, with many of the selections
and favors gorgeous seasonal veg- The return of classic fine dining changing on a daily basis.
etables over meat. On the wine side,

Beverage Director Michael McAvena
seeks regional and small-production
wines made with little intervention.
(Pro tip: Ask McAvena about any
special off-menu bottles.)
Bar Ferdinand
Seattle
barferdinandseattle.com
Much of Chef/Co-owner Matt Dillon's
food comes from his Vashon Island
farm and cooked in an open fireplace.
Sommelier/Co-owner Marc Papineau
maintains a focus on natural and small
producers.
R
estaurants have gotten smaller and more casual, and “local” and
“seasonal” have gone from buzzwords to givens. And yet, dishes like
Dover sole and steak au poivre à l’Armagnac in a ritzy environment with
formal service have enduring appeal. With a spate of opulent openings
that might have seemed out of place just a few years ago, restaurateurs are
examining what fine dining looks like in 2017.
New York City fine dining once meant Lutèce, La Côte Basque, Le Pavillon
and La Caravelle, and it seems their ghosts have awakened. In Madison Avenue’s
Lowell Hotel, Majorelle is like dining in a French manor home, complete with
gougonettes de sole and foie gras et Sauternes. At Gabriel Kreuther, servers lift
glass domes off plates of langoustine tartare and Siberian osetra.
Elsewhere, Washington, DC’s Mirabelle exudes midcentury glamour. It’s just
two blocks from the White House, where Executive Chef Frank Ruta cooked
under the Carter, Reagan and first Bush administrations. In Minneapolis, the
historic Grand Café reopened with an unabashedly old-fashioned menu Blue Hill at Stone Barns
featuring foie gras royale and pike quenelles in crayfish sauce. John Besh’s Pocantico Hills, NY
revamp of The Caribbean Room in New Orleans’ Pontchartrain Hotel reimag- bluehillfarm.com/dine/stone-barns
ines classic Creole in a baroque, jackets-required setting. Go early to explore the grounds of this
Yet the new school of fine dining isn’t all about nostalgia. Progressive Indian working farm, from which most of the
cuisine gets the white-tablecloth treatment in a majestic space at New York’s legendary tasting menu is sourced. The
Indian Accent. In Scottsdale, Arizona, Sel serves caviar, foie gras and filet beverage pairings are always unex-
mignon with morels and sauce Bordelaise, but also such modern, global dishes pected (don’t be surprised if you get
as sushi-grade ahi tuna with a green papaya tostada and yuzu kosho aioli. a margarita with one course), or you
Philadelphia’s Jansen takes the rusticity out of farm-to-table dining in an can choose a bottle from Wine Director
elegantly restored stone cottage dating from 1700, where Chef David Jansen’s Charles Puglia’s monumental list.
two decades with the upscale Four Seasons are evident in the ornate plating and
meticulous service.

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

 Executive Chef
Curtis Stone and
Wine Director
Fahara Zamorano
Gwen
Los Angeles

Your other restaurant, Maude, offers one epic

tasting menu. What’s the vibe at Gwen?
Curtis Stone: At Gwen, it’s a three-, five- or
10-course tasting menu focused on fire-based
cooking techniques. I fell in love with the shell
of this 1928 building smack in the middle of
gritty Hollywood. It’s like an old Hollywood din-
ing room. I want the room to feel like a party.

Where would you lead someone who comes

in for a big steak with the perfect wine?
Fahara Zamorano: The big meat course at
Gwen is only one component of the tasting
menu—you’re not going to get there for a while.
The safe bets for terrines and charcuterie
are rosés, while cured meats and pâtés are
wonderful with skin-contact whites. I call them
“ballerinas that ride Harleys.” They can be re-
ally delicate, but they’ve got muscle and power,
making them super-dynamic for pastas and
salad dishes as well.

Gwen pulls on the abundance of year-round

produce from southern California. Do you
have a similar mindset with the wines?
FZ: The wines share the kitchen standards of
sustainability, with a focus on Santa Barbara.
We love the idea of giving our out-of-town
guests a taste of what comes from here.

What’s happening at the bar?

FZ: We’re all about the no-waste movement
and source everything locally.

If someone is normally not much of a meat

eater but decides to go for it at Gwen, what
do you recommend?
CS: Something braised or slow cooked,
pasta that’s subtly infused—bacon and egg
ravioli, something without big chunks of meat,
something containing only the essence. Char-
cuterie is so textural. I’d maybe not go there.
ERIC SCHWABEL

—Georgette Moger

WINEMAG.COM | 55
 AMERICA’S I 100 BEST WINE RESTAURANTS I 2017

Blackberry
Farm Honey-
Glazed
Eggplant
Adapted from Cassidee
Dabney, executive chef, The
Barn at Blackberry Farm,
Walland, Tennessee

Dabney likes to add her own

pickled ramps and peppers from
the on-site garden to this dish.
Feel free to garnish with your own
pickled onions, peppers or both. 

3 Chinese or Japanese
eggplants (about 1½
pounds), sliced into
½-inch-thick rounds
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons honey
½ teaspoon ground Aleppo,
Urfa or ancho pepper
½ cup yogurt
½ cup crème fraîche
¼ packed cup fresh dill
¼ cup toasted hazelnuts,
coarsely chopped
¼ cup fresh mint leaves,
sliced thin

Toss eggplant with salt and olive

oil to coat. Heat large nonstick
skillet over medium-high heat.
Add eggplant in single layer and
cook (in batches if necessary),
turning once, until deep brown on
both sides. Add honey and pepper
to pan, and cook, stirring gently,
for 1 minute. Remove from heat.
Pulse yogurt, crème fraîche
and dill in food processor, and

PENNY DE LOS SANTOS, FOOD STYLING: MARIANA VELASQUEZ

season with salt to taste.
To serve, spread yogurt on
platter or individual plates. Top
with eggplant and garnish with
hazelnuts and mint. Serves 4.

PAIR IT
Domaine de la Vieille Julienne
2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe

“The dish’s ingredients are

reminiscent of those you’ll find in
southern France, where the wine
comes from,” says Blackberry Farm
Wine Director Andy Chabot. “All the
wild, herbal, spicy and nutty notes
go great with Grenache.”

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

 Boiler Room
Omaha, NE
boilerroomomaha.com
Local ingredients rule on the plate—the
inventive dishes are almost entirely
sourced from nearby farms—but the
500-plus-label wine list goes Old
World, emphasizing bright, expressive
wines that complement the food’s
garden-fresh quality. The kitchen feels
rejuvenated with the longtime chef de
cuisine, Tim Nicholson, taking over as
executive chef this year.
Canlis
Seattle
canlis.com
In business nearly 70 years, Canlis still
is Seattle’s most stunning dining room,
now operated by the grandchildren of
original owner Peter Canlis. With classic
fine dining back in vogue, the restau-
rant feels more relevant than ever.
JULIA KAHLBAUGH (CARLTON); ANTHONY THALIER (CATBIRD SEAT); KELLY D. PULEIO (CHARTER
OAK); ARACELI PAZ (COSME); MEG BAGGOTT (KITTLE HOUSE); THOMAS SCHAUER (DANIEL)
The Carlton
Pittsburgh
thecarltonrestaurant.com
The food is hearty at this 33-year-old
establishment, and a minimal markup
on the global wine list encourages
exploration of this 800-plus-selection
cellar. Monthly wine dinners give diners
an opportunity to learn about new
regions.
The Catbird Seat
Nashville
thecatbirdseatrestaurant.com
Chef Ryan Poli and his brother,
Matthew, the beverage director,
launched a Tuesday Test Kitchen initia-
tive at their highbrow, 22-seat eatery.
Guests have the opportunity to sound
off on future menu hits.
The Charter Oak
St. Helena, CA
thecharteroak.com
Terroir in wine and food is the focus at
the new venture of Christopher Kostow
and Nathaniel Dorn (The Restaurant
at Meadowood), whose mission is to
advocate Napa’s unique geography,
and its farmers and winemakers.
Coi
San Francisco
coirestaurant.com
New blood courses through Coi, with
Matthew Kirkely and Courtney Olson
coming on last year as chef and wine
director, respectively. The tasting menu
highlights inspired seafood dishes,
paired with a list of 500-plus wines
primarily from France’s classic regions.
Commander’s Palace 
New Orleans
commanderspalace.com
You might come here for the legendary
Bloody Marys—among the best in
NOLA— but “the Palace” is just as
renowned for its encyclopedic wine
list. The city’s temple to haute Creole
received an infusion of spice in March
when Chris Lynch, formerly chef at
Atchafalaya, joined the team under
guidance of Executive Chef Tory
McPhail.
Cosme
New York City
cosmenyc.com
Tradition merges here with farm-
fresh ingredients and a modernist
philosophy, and the result is perhaps
the truest reflection of contemporary
Mexican cuisine in the U.S. Wines skew
natural and Old World.
Cowboy Ciao
Scottsdale, AZ
cowboyciao.com
Leveraging the idea that wine should
be fun, Cowboy Ciao’s “Big Book” of
more than 2,000 selections reads like
a wine lover’s comic book, which is
appropriate for the restaurant’s party
atmosphere. Don’t miss the mushroom
pan fry with ancho cream and polenta.
Crabtree’s Kittle House
Chappaqua, NY
kittlehouse.com
John Crabtree’s destination-worthy
cellar boasts more than 40,000
bottles that include verticals from the
world’s greatest winemakers, set in the
former stables of a 1790 estate.
DANIEL
New York City
danielnyc.com
Daniel Boulud, the legendary chef/
owner, hails from Lyon, France, so it’s
no surprise that the wine list skews
toward the Rhône and Burgundy. Ask
about limited-production and newly
released back vintages that are rarely
seen stateside.
El Paseo
Mill Valley, CA
elpaseomillvalley.com
The monthly wine-collector dinners are
a Marin County must, but the everyday
menus have also flourished, thanks
to the Spanish-inspired cooking of
Henry Cortez and a wine selection that
features trophies from the personal
collection of its owner, rock legend
Sammy Hagar.
WINEMAG.COM | 57
 AMERICA’S I 100 BEST WINE RESTAURANTS I 2017

The Firehouse Fish & Game

Element 47 at The Little
Nell
Aspen, CO
thelittlenell.com/dining/element-47
Wine Director Carlton McCoy oversees
43 sommeliers and 20,000 bottles
that focus on classic regions and
producers, and provide masterful
pairings for dishes such as venison
tartare and butter-poached lobster.
Sacramento
firehouseoldsac.com
Having served everyone from Andy
Warhol and Muhammad Ali to Clint
Eastwood and Ronald Reagan, Mario
Ortiz developed and cared for this
2,100-label, 16,000-bottle cellar for
more than 40 years. He created the
“Vault,” a list of rare European and
California wines.
Hudson, NY
fishandgamehudson.com
Minimal intervention is the philosophy
both in the glass and on the table.
This Hudson Valley venture from
Zak Pelaccio features area farmers
and global winemakers who let their
ingredients do the talking.
Five & Ten
Athens, GA
fiveandten.com
Richard Neal, the new executive chef,
brings a fine dining pedigree to this
upscale-Southern standby. Neal favors
simple, clean flavors, which Wine
Director Steven Grubbs says “leaves
plenty of room for wine to fill in those
spaces.”

Art
on the Plate
Destination-worthy museum
FIG Restaurant Flora Street Café
restaurants

D
Charleston, SC Dallas
eatatfig.com ining out has become entertainment, education and art all in one, so it’s florastreet.com

This Charleston favorite offers classic
Low Country dishes using ingredients
from small-scale purveyors. It shines
alongside an ever-evolving wine
collection that’s focused on small
producers.
Fiola di Fabio
Trabocchi
Washington, DC
fioladc.com
Rather than one set tasting menu,
Fiola recently transitioned to a flexible
format, where diners pick their own
three-, four- or five-course dinners.
Sommeliers are on the floor to suggest
pairings from a large international list.
GATELY WILLIAMS (FIG); GREG POWERS (FIOLA); PETER BARRETT (FISH & GAME); DANIEL BELL (FLX TABLE)
no surprise that museum restaurants have evolved from quick stops to The new Arts District dining room of
placate the kids to destinations in their own right. Chef Stephan Pyles is formal but fresh.
In Situ, the restaurant that accompanies the impressive redesign of Wines from the Texas High Plains
the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, is a museum of food: Chef Corey Lee are showcased alongside picks from
replicates iconic dishes from famed chefs of different eras. It’s a tricky conceit, Burgundy and Oregon’s Willamette
but brilliantly executed. Valley.
The vegetable-driven cuisine at Esker Grove, the new restaurant in
Minneapolis’s contemporary Walker Art Museum, takes inspiration from the
museum’s collection: An entrée of roasted parsnip with coffee, caramelized
goat’s milk and escarole combines the drama of Edward Hopper with the whimsy
of Yayoi Kusama.
At the new Sweet Home Café in the Smithsonian’s National Museum of
African American History & Culture, African-American food traditions old and
new are separated by geographic origin: Agricultural Coast, Creole South, North
States and Western Range. It’s comfort food as history lesson.
The Art Institute of Chicago’s recently renovated Terzo Piano is helmed by
another Chicago legend, Spiaggia Chef Tony Mantuano. Otium, in The Broad, a
contemporary art museum in Downtown LA, opened in late 2015 with food as FLX Table
innovative and irreverent as the art on display. Across town, LACMA’s Ray’s and Geneva, NY
Stark Bar serves California wines and wood-fired cuisine on a sunny patio. flxtable.com
Patrons of The Modern, located in New York’s Museum of Modern Art but Chef and Master Sommelier
with a separate entrance, can enjoy a view of the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Christopher Bates combines his two
Sculpture Garden. Farther uptown, some of the city’s best Italian food—which is loves in a dinner-party friendly
saying a lot—can be found at Storico, in the New-York Historical Society restaurant with a communal table as
Museum & Library. Executive Chef Tim Kensett, an alum of London’s River Café, its centerpiece. Wines at every price
serves dishes that delve deep into Italian culinary tradition with a personal spin, point are available by the taste, glass
like buckwheat pizzoccheri pasta with Fontina, speck and poppy seeds. or bottle.

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

 Chef de Cuisine
Daniela Soto-Innes
and Beverage
Director Yana
Volfson
Cosme
New York City

What makes Cosme a different kind of Mexi-

can restaurant than most people in the U.S.
are familiar with?
Daniela Soto-Innes: The food at Cosme is
contemporary Mexican. We use dry ingredi-
ents from Mexico like corn, beans and chilies,
and we mix them with local fresh products to
create real Mexican food in New York.

Yana Volfson: If you’ve spent time in Mexico

City, then you’ve had a more modern Mexican
cuisine experience. It’s kind of a marriage of
that style of food coming to New York, with
a rarer European-driven wine program that’s
more “New York” and not available in Mexico. I
see it as a circular experience of newness and
openness.

Mexico doesn’t have a big wine-drinking

culture, even though there’s such a range of
flavors in the cuisine that work with wine.
What’s a favorite pairing?
YV: I love pairing a Manzanilla Sherry with
the cobia al pastor. It brings out the spice rub
on the fish, and the buttery pineapple purée
coats the palate and allows the salinity of the
Sherry to become sweeter. It’s a great way to
start off a gastronomic experience at Cosme,
very transporting.

DS: I never imagined Sherry to marry so well

with so many of our dishes. I love when Yana
sniffs the food like wine!

Cosme’s a great place for cross drinkers.

YV: We’re not married to just wine. It’s a huge
part of the conversation but we’re having that
same conversation with mezcal, cocktails,
Sherry, beer. Yes, a margarita does go with raw
fish! Cosme has a playfulness to it, which al-
lows the guest to have a different experience
every time they come. Daniela’s food is about
happiness, so that’s what I go for. I hope what
PAUL ARESU

makes us happy makes other people happy.

—Nils Bernstein

WINEMAG.COM | 59
 AMERICA’S I 100 BEST WINE RESTAURANTS I 2017

Miminashi’s
Little Gem
Salad
Adapted from Curtis Di Fede,
chef/owner, Miminashi, Napa,
California

This easy miso dressing is also

terrific on noodle or grain salads,
grilled vegetables or seared scal-
lops. 

1 tablespoon yellow or white

miso
1 small garlic clove, grated
3 tablespoons rice wine
vinegar
½ cup safflower oil
4 medium heads Little Gem
lettuce
Kosher salt and freshly ground
black pepper, to taste
1  avocado
5 red radishes

Place miso, garlic and vinegar

in blender and blend until very
smooth. With blender running,
add safflower oil slowly to emul-
sify. Remove from blender and
refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
Remove any tough outer leaves
from lettuce and discard. Separate
leaves and place in large bowl.
Add dressing as desired, then add
salt and pepper to taste. Slice
avocado and radish just before
serving, and arrange on top of
salad. Serves 4.

PAIR IT
Von Donabaum 2015 Grüner
Veltliner (Burgenland)

“This wine has leafy, radishy notes

PENNY DE LOS SANTOS, FOOD STYLING: MARIANA VELASQUEZ

with a white peppery finish that
goes beautifully with the miso
dressing,” says Miminashi Wine
Director Jessica Pinzon.

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017


Four Horsemen
Brooklyn, NY
fourhorsemenbk.com
“Natural wine for everyone” is the
unspoken mantra at this restaurant,
and the staff is committed to matching
every diner with their perfect bottle.
The food, from the jerky-like dried
skate wing to steak with roasted
cabbage and salsa verde, offers fresh,
powerful flavors.
JUSTIN CHUNG (4 HORSEMEN); JOE FRIEND (FRASCA); DEBORAH JONES (FRENCH LAUNDRY); BENJAMIN LOZOVSKY (GABRIEL KREUTHER);
QUENTIN BACON (GREY); CLAY LARSEN (GWEN); ALEXANDER MANGOLD (INDIAN ACCENT); SCOTT SHUMAN (IRON GATE)
Frasca Food and Wine
Boulder, CO
frascafoodandwine.com
Now in its 13th year, Frasca continues to
grow and have national influence. The
cuisine centers on northern Italy, with
ingredients from Colorado farmers. Its
informative wine list, though Italian-
focused, roams the globe.
The French Laundry
Yountville, CA
thomaskeller.com/tfl
This icon of farm-to-table fine dining
has a wine list of unparalleled depth.
Discovery is still its aim, though, with an
extensive half-bottle list and frequent
additions of young producers.
FT33
Dallas
ft33dallas.com
Chef/Owner Matt McCallister’s playful
restaurant lists dishes by component
that glorify the top ingredients sourced
in West Texas. They star alongside
a worldly wine list overseen by Jeff
Gregory, the general manager and wine
director.
Gabriel Kreuther
New York City
gknyc.com
The much-lauded fine-dining restau-
rant from Alsace-born Chef Kreuther
has almost doubled its wine selection
in the last year. It now includes several
verticals from the Rhône, Bordeaux
and Italy.
The Grey
Savannah, GA
thegreyrestaurant.com
Savannah’s storied spice trade shapes
the inventive food menu at this
Southern charmer, set in a rehabbed
Greyhound bus station. Its 22 options
by the glass further reiterate the city’s
Old World ties.
Gwen
Los Angeles
gwenla.com
Top-quality beef and house-made
charcuterie are the focus at Curtis
Stone’s second LA restaurant, which
doubles as a butcher shop. Sharing
a natural affinity with charcuterie,
rosés and skin-fermented whites are
standouts on the wine list.
Hashiri
San Francisco
hashirisf.com
This new Japanese import offers a
multicourse kaiseki meal followed
by sushi from Tokyo’s Tsukiji market.
Jennifer Estevez has curated a remark-
able list for a new restaurant, with a
heap of back-vintage Burgundy and
California Cab, and a wide selection of
rare and exclusive sakes.  
Indian Accent
New York City
indianaccent.com/newyork
The NYC branch of an acclaimed New
Delhi restaurant has an unexpected
trick up its sleeve: more than 40
Madeira and rancio wines by the glass.
Wine Director Daniel Beedle can find
the perfect pairing for the restaurant’s
elegant Indian flavors from an eye-
opening list.
Iron Gate
Washington, DC
irongaterestaurantdc.com
The sustainable food and wine here
focus on Greece and southern Italy,
with an extensive list of domestic craft
beers. In very limited quantity: a hidden
list of mature wines.
JORY Restaurant
Newberg, OR
theallison.com/jory-restaurant
With more than 800 labels, Jory is
the perfect place to taste Pacific
Northwest Pinot Noirs alongside
Burgundy, with which the Willamette
Valley is often compared. Chef Sunny
Jin’s menus change based on what’s in
season from the on-site gardens.
June’s All Day
Austin
junesallday.com
Hand-drawn ’zines replace a tradi-
tional wine list at the South Congress
eatery of Master Sommelier June Rodil.
Other lighthearted touches include a
vintage jukebox and weekend DJs.
WINEMAG.COM | 61
 AMERICA’S I 100 BEST WINE RESTAURANTS I 2017

Kali
Los Angeles
kalirestaurant.com
Chef/Owner Kevin Meehan spun a
private dinner pop-up into a restaurant
that may redefine high-end California
cuisine. Its menu is 90 percent local,
organic and sustainable, and the wine
list focuses on producers who share the
kitchen’s philosophies.
La Sirena
New York City
lasirena-nyc.com
This breezy trattoria from Mario Batali
and Joe Bastianich combines a proper
dining room serving pan-Italian cuisine
with a separate tapas bar. The descrip-
tive wine list is deep in Italy, with a
hefty dose of Champagne.
Le Bernardin
New York City
le-bernardin.com
Le Bernardin’s tasting menus and
wine pairings continue to be among
the city's most exalted. The lounge is
a more accessible place to taste Eric
Ripert’s meticulous creations and
browse a wine list that features almost
1,000 selections, some of which date
to 1875.
Le Coucou
New York City
lecoucou.com
Daniel Rose helped bring back time-
honored French dishes like ris de veau
a l’estragon and quenelle de brochet at
this hopping newcomer to downtown
Manhattan. The wine list is French-
driven, but also includes Austria, Italy,
California and surprises from the Finger
Lakes and Greece.

Seitan
Be Gone
Kinship
Washington, DC Le Pigeon

kinshipdc.com
In less than two years, Kinship has gone
from the hot new kid on the block to
a warm, neighborhood standby. Ask
for the reserve list from Métier—the
GREG POWERS (KINSHIP); COLIN DEWELL (LARK); EMIL O. FLOREA (LA SIRENA); SHIMON & TIMMON (LE BERNARDIN);
Portland, OR
lepigeon.com
This cozy James Beard Award-winning
The new plant-based cuisine restaurant serves food that’s unex-
pected and upscale, but never fussy.

tasting-menu-only sister restaurant
downstairs—which abounds with back
vintages at their peak.
The Lark
Santa Barbara, CA
thelarksb.com
On this wine list, a Santa Barbara wine
is paired with an Old World equivalent,
an enlightening exercise. The com-
mitment of Wine Director Ted Ellis to
responsible and variety-appropriate
farming is echoed in a menu almost
entirely sourced within a short radius of
the restaurant.
CORRY ARNOLD (LE COUCOU); DAVID REAMER (LE PIGEON); SAMANTHA ENGELHOF (L'ETOILE)
here’s a reason why the terms “vegetarian” and “vegan” have been largely To match it, Andy Fortgang has put
supplanted by “vegetable-focused” and “plant-based.” At some of the together a similarly template-breaking
country’s best restaurants, vegetables are taking center stage, whether wine list that’s elegant, generous and a
those restaurants are vegetarian or vegan, or just use meat more as a little esoteric.
supporting player than star.
Vegan restaurants like Crossroads and Plant Food + Wine in LA and Vedge
in Philadelphia have had major influence on chefs nationwide, encouraging them
to see freedom from the slab-o-protein as an opportunity for invention.
In Portland, Farm Spirit turns local farm produce into mind-bending tasting
menus that are among the country’s most ingenious (sample dish: Brussels
sprouts in a butternut-hazelnut velouté, with black garlic, red jalapeño and
fermented sunflower). Many other, non-plant-based restaurants known for their
tasting menus—such as NYC’s Daniel and Chicago’s Grace—offer entirely
vegetarian options that meat-eating diners often choose.
Earlier this year, Jean-Georges Vongerichten opened abcV, a plant-based L’Etoile Restaurant
entry in his ever-expanding empire, a natural move for a chef who has always Madison, WI
celebrated the freshest local ingredients. And the name alone should give away letoile-restaurant.com
the inclinations of Bad Hunter in Chicago, which turns traditional menu This local landmark has beefed up
structure on its head by treating the few meat and seafood dishes almost as a both its wine staff and cellar. It has
sidebar among the thrilling vegetable options. added lesser-known producers from
Furthermore, this year vegetable cuisine got its deserved literary treatment Bordeaux, Burgundy and Tuscany on
in the book On Vegetables (Phaidon) by meat-loving Rustic Canyon Chef Jeremy the bottle list and for the pairings
Fox, including his famed “Beets and Berries” dish. alongside the seven-course tasting
You’ll never look at your garden the same way. menu.

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

 Fish &
Game’s
Roasted
Oysters
with Kimchi
Hollandaise
Adapted from Project 258:
Making Dinner at Fish & Game
(University of Texas Press)

At Fish & Game, the staff uses

a homemade kimchi of daikon
greens and bakes the oysters in a
wood-fired oven.
24 oysters
1 egg, plus 3 egg yolks
2 sticks (½ pound) unsalted
butter
½ cup kimchi brine, strained
Kosher salt, to taste
½ cup kimchi, drained and
minced

Shuck oysters, leaving them in

bottom shell with liquid. Arrange
in rimmed baking sheet on bed of
coarse salt, to hold them steady
while you make Hollandaise.
Put egg and yolks in blender.
Heat butter and brine in saucepan
over medium heat. After butter
melts, whisk mixture and pour
slowly into running blender until
it visibly thickens. Add salt to
taste, if necessary.
Heat broiler. Top each oyster
with about 1 teaspoon of kimchi
and fill with Hollandaise. Broil
until sauce is nicely browned, and
serve immediately. Serves 8–12.

PAIR IT
France Gonzalvez 2014 Roule
PENNY DE LOS SANTOS, FOOD STYLING: MARIANA VELASQUEZ

ta Bulle Pétillant Naturel (Vin

de France)

Fish & Game Wine Director Mike

Rice says, “This funky pink pet-nat
has a little residual sugar to stand
up to that briny oyster, the kimchi
and the Hollandaise. Delicious to
drink with the oysters, and on its
own when they’re gone.”
PHOTO CREDIT

WINEMAG.COM | 63
 AMERICA’S I 100 BEST WINE RESTAURANTS I 2017

Chef Michael Scelfo

and Wine Director
Jen Fields
Waypoint
Cambridge, Massachusetts

You describe your food as coastally inspired,

not Italian. How do pizza and pasta fit in?
Michael Scelfo: I’m Italian, third-generation. I
think all my food is Mediterranean leaning…It
could also be southern French.

The restaurant scene in Cambridge has

exploded over the last few years.
MS: I like to think of Cambridge as our own
little Brooklyn to Boston. It’s really where a lot
of new and exciting things are happening in
the food scene.
Jen Fields: It’s very collaborative. If I go to a
place down the street and have a really cool
glass or bottle, I’ll talk to them about it. We all
love talking about food and wine.

Waypoint’s food changes constantly. Jen,

how does that affect you in selecting wines?
JF: We try to take the same seasonal inspira-
tions. We rotate our glass pours every few
months. We’re transitioning into more rosés.
Later in the summer, going into fall, we’ll get
into some of the heavier whites and lighter
reds. When it’s cold, we do heavier reds to go
with the weather and food.

Why the focus on absinthe cocktails?

MS: Anything that’s got kind of an anise note,
I’m really partial to. I think those flavors pair
really well with seafood and shellfish…. There’s
a huge opportunity to have a fresh voice on
seafood in Boston, and absinthe is part of that.

Why did you choose descriptors like “Lost at

Sea” and “Old Souls” for the wine list?
JF: We wanted to focus on less-known indig-
enous grapes, but wanted to categorize a little
differently so people would know more what
to expect. [Scelfo] really likes cool-climate,
light-body reds, so “Cool Nights” had to be a
category. I love high-altitude aromatic whites,
so we had to do a “Vertigo” section.

MS: We’re a big family of punsters, so any

ADAM DETOUR

opportunity to have “Caught Macerating” on a

menu, we had to do it. —Layla Schlack

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017


Los Fuegos By Francis
Mallmann
Miami
faena.com/miami-beach/restaurant/
los-fuegos-by-francis-mallmann
A red-hot wine list (with bottles of
Burgundy priced at $1,000 or more)
meets live-fire cooking at this splurge-
worthy restaurant dreamed up by
Mallmann, Argentina’s top grill master.
SILVERMAN (MODERN); LEO GONG (MORRIS); JULIE SOERFER (1/5); MIKE O'BRYAN (ORIOLE); PAUL JONSON (OUSIA); CRAIG KUHNER (PAPPAS BROS)
JUAN FERNANDO AYORA (LOS FUEGOS); MARK HOLTHUSEN (MANRESA); ANDREW THOMAS LEE (MARCEL); ANDREW CEBULKA (MCCRADY'S); ELLEN
Manresa
Los Gatos, CA
manresarestaurant.com
Whether a bottle or pairings with
the tasting menu, guests can explore
producers from the nearby Santa
Cruz Mountains alongside current and
library selections that target the Loire,
Northern Rhône and Burgundy.
Marcel
Atlanta
marcelatl.com
This swanky steakhouse offers a
secret late-night menu on Fridays and
Saturdays with steak frites and burgers
for $10, plus a wine list now overseen
by lauded Beverage Manager Eduardo
Porto Carreiro.
McCrady’s
Charleston, SC
mccradysrestaurant.com
A new format offers 12 courses for
$125, plus $85 for wine pairings at this
22-seat restaurant. Guests are greeted
with a Champagne flute and depart
with a gourmet goodie bag.
Miller Union
Atlanta
millerunion.com
Steven Satterfield’s ode to country
cooking features items such as grit
fritters with cheese, and farm eggs
baked in celery cream. Those entrées
find a perfect foil in Neal McCarthy’s
creative wine program. It includes a
half-bottle selection that begs for a
mix-and-match sipping strategy.
Miminashi
Napa, CA
miminashi.com
One of Napa’s hottest openings in
recent years, this upscale izakaya (a
sort of Japanese gastropub) serves
creative bar snacks made with Napa
ingredients. The bites are paired with
Riesling, cru Beaujolais and grower
Champagne.
The Modern
New York City
themodernnyc.com
The Museum of Modern Art’s
acclaimed restaurant has become
a monument to wine over the last
few years. It’s tripled the number of
selections to 3,000, and it employs six
sommeliers to work alongside Wine
Director Michael Engelmann.
The Morris
San Francisco
themorris-sf.com
The enthusiasm displayed by Paul
Einbund, a partner and the wine
director, guarantees a good time here,
whether you choose an everyday
Assyrtiko or an ’03 Sine Qua Non Syrah
to go with trout crudo and whole
smoked duck.
One Fifth
Houston
onefifthhouston.com
Swiss cider, Texas “Sherry” and other
fun oddities make Matthew Pridgen’s
beverage menu pop at Underbelly’s
new sister restaurant. The hotspot is a
five-year-long project that transforms
into a new restaurant concept each
September.
Oriole
Chicago
oriolechicago.com
Hidden down an alley, this eatery
boasts just 28 seats, but also two
Michelin stars. Wine Director Aaron
McManus has crafted a fantastic Old
World-focused pairing program, and
the innovative non-alcoholic menu by
Julia Momose adds a fun buzz.
Ousia
New York City
ousianyc.com
The new sister restaurant to Molyvos
(which boasts the largest Greek wine
list in the U.S.) also incorporates
wines from Spain, France and Italy. It
encourages diners to see those regions
through a lens of Greek wine. The
family-style modern Greek cuisine is
similarly fantastic.
Pappas Bros.
Houston
pappasbros.com
Master Sommelier Jack Mason
returned to Houston last year from
a stint in New York City. He joined a
talented team at this steakhouse
known for its dry-aged beef and an
uncommonly deep wine collection.
WINEMAG.COM | 65
 AMERICA’S I 100 BEST WINE RESTAURANTS I 2017

Parachute The Pass & Provisions Piora

Chicago
parachuterestaurant.com
Parachute is all about discovery,
from Beverly Kim and Johnny Clark’s
explosive Korean-inflected flavors to
Matty Colston’s passion for lesser-
known grapes and regions.
Houston
passandprovisions.com
The expansive, map-spanning wine
list offers many wines rarely seen in
Texas, including intriguing picks from
Slovenia, Lebanon and other emerging
regions. Stuart Humphries, formerly
of Anvil, runs the seasonal cocktail
program.
Picasso
Las Vegas
bellagio.com/en/restaurants/picasso.html
Julian Serrano’s beloved French and
Spanish cuisine joins iconic wines
from those countries. Bellagio’s wine
director, Master Sommelier Jason
Smith, has also incorporated younger
producers from emerging regions.
New York
pioranyc.com
Sommelier Victoria James showcases
French classics, particularly
Champagne, balanced by unexpected
delights, such as hard-to-find wines
from Switzerland. Any full still bottle
may be ordered as a half bottle, a
policy that makes on-the-fly glass
pours possible.

Parc
Detroit
parcdetroit.com
Dennis Payne, Parc’s veteran
sommelier, walks the floor most nights Hotter Plumed Horse
Saratoga, CA

Than Ever
recommending ideal pairings for the plumedhorse.com
wood-fired dishes. More than 400 A longtime South Bay favorite which
bottles, anchored by a “Unicorn List” helped raise the quality of Silicon
that features California cult Cabernets Valley dining, this restaurant highlights
and first-growth Bordeaux, are stored ingredients from nearby farms, with a
in a custom subterranean cellar. far-reaching wine list and three-story
Open-fire cooking cellar.

W
hether whole beasts or marshmallows, cooking over an open fire has
brought people together for millennia. So it’s no surprise restaurants
are embracing the elemental nature and smoky complexity it brings
to everything from salads to desserts.
Wood-fired ovens are common in a well-outfitted restaurant kitchen, but
more restaurants are putting them at the center of the action. The Francis
Mallmann episode of the Netflix series Chef’s Table got audiences excited about
the Argentinean chef’s theatrical open-fire cooking at his restaurants, like the
new Los Fuegos By Francis Mallmann in Miami Beach.
At Chicago’s El Che Bar, Chef John Manion also looks to Argentina’s urban
parrilladas and rural asados for inspiration. Over 90 percent of the menu comes
off the open fire. Joining him in Chicago is Leña Brava, Rick Bayless’s ode to the
barbacoas of Baja California Norte, Mexico (paired with wines from the region The Progress

PULP DETROIT (PARC); ED ANDERSON (PROGRESS)

Pasquale Jones
New York City
pasqualejones.com
Pasquale Jones’s “seasonal short list”
highlights revolving small-production
wines to enjoy with wood-fired pizza
and tender braised-pork shank. The
rest of the list features some of the
greatest Italian and French producers,
with vintages back to the ’60s.
as well). Live fire licks the ingredients in salsas and sides that accompany San Francisco
fire-roasted halibut and a two-pound tomahawk beef rib chop. theprogress-sf.com
Brooklyn’s Mettā, whose chef, Norberto Piattoni, worked for Mallmann, is A thoughtful, producer-focused list
oriented around a wood fire that delivers seasonal California-meets-New Nordic (complete with producer bios) joins
dishes like charred beets with rye berries, and roasted fish with turnips and dishes like Monterey Bay abalone with
nettles. At Oakland’s Camino, lamb legs hang above fire that simultaneously heirloom broccoli di cicco, and morel
grills the loin and slow-roasts the shoulder (and, for dessert, don’t miss the mushroom cavatelli with goat Gouda
grilled fig-leaf ice cream). and stinging nettle cream.
Ford Fry’s Atlanta restaurant King & Duke has a 24-foot hearth for its
Southern dishes with Spanish touches—the veggie sides are a highlight. LA’s
Gwen uses live fire to gently roast some of the world’s finest meats (if you
haven’t tried Australian Blackmore wagyu beef, reserve now), showing that fire
isn’t all char and smoke, but can concentrate and accentuate flavors. Fire away!

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

 Chef/Owners Chris
Kajioka and Anthony
Rush, and Wine
Director Chris
Ramelb
Senia
Honolulu

What was your initial vision for Senia?

Anthony Rush: Collaboration…, being able to
use classic European techniques with tropical
ingredients.
Chris Kajioka: No one believed with our [fine-
dining] backgrounds that this was going to
be an approachable place, and that was the
number one thing that I wanted…. We want to
reflect that we’re in Hawaii, for people to feel
that hospitality.

Anthony, you’re a long way from England.

AR: Having grown up in the English country-
side, Hawaii appeals to me because it’s equally
lush and green. There’s nothing like hiking here,
especially when we come across wild fruits that
we can forage and use in the restaurant.

What’s working?
CK: Born and raised in Hawaii, we always have
a chip on our shoulder that we’re less than San
Francisco or New York. That’s why the restau-
rant community is so supportive of each other.
When one person does well, we all do well.

Your sommelier admits to having that chip.

CK: We actually weren’t going to have a somm,
but everyone around town told us, “You need to
talk to this guy. He’s a prodigy kid.”
Chris Ramelb: We wanted to earn Hawaii a
place at the table, for people to take us seri-
ously. Then it slowly morphed into, “I want to
prove that we’re better.”

How have you created the wine list?

CR: I want to champion producers that are
doing things the right way, that are farmers first
and foremost. I try to have something for every
type of taste at every price. We need things
people feel comfortable with. It’s a constant
battle between entertaining and education.
—Virginie Boone
OLIVIER KONING

WINEMAG.COM | 67
 AMERICA’S I 100 BEST WINE RESTAURANTS I 2017
Rebelle
New York City
rebellenyc.com
Wine Director Patrick Cappiello and
Head Sommelier Kimberly Prokoshyn
make sure the list satisfies a wine
geek’s dreams. Obscure grape varieties
from California and deep offerings of
benchmark Loire Chenin Blanc are the
tip of the iceberg.
Redbird
Los Angeles
redbird.la
Redbird, inside a former rectory, serves
snacks and larger plates influenced by
LA’s multicultural tapestry of flavors.
Guests can still worship here at the
altars of Burgundy, Bordeaux and
California.
Reeds American Table
Maplewood, MO
reedsamericantable.com
Andrey Ivanov’s global wine list pulls
from Armenia to South Africa—his
newest obsession—yet for all its
globetrotting, the restaurant’s core
appeal is its connection with guests
over a home-cooked meal.
68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
Reef
Houston
reefhouston.com
This top seafood spot has a wine list
organized by flavor and body, plus “BIN
713” selections that promote wine-
makers who are Houston natives.
République
Los Angeles
republiquela.com
The wine list here has always
embraced change, with daily offerings
pulled from the ample cellar. The list
has also become about expansion: a
new reserve list, more back vintages,
and more frequent wine dinners and
events.
The Restaurant at
Meadowood
St. Helena, CA
therestaurantatmeadowood.com
There’s nothing like a brilliant
young prodigy coming on the scene,
except maybe an Old Master firing
on all cylinders. The latter defines
Meadowood Chef Christopher Kostow,
still the standard-bearer for farm-to-
table cooking after nine years with the
restaurant.
Restaurant Eugene
Atlanta
restauranteugene.com
The flagship restaurant of Linton
and Gina Hopkins celebrates the
sophisticated Southern pantry, and
its wine offerings are also a cause for
celebration and exploration. The global
list features many back vintages, and
more than 20 wines are poured by the
ounce via Coravin.
Restaurant Latour
Hamburg, NJ
crystalgolfresort.com/dine/latour
Hyperlocal Northeast cuisine that
includes foraged ingredients and
rare-breed pigs meets one of the most
important cellars in the country, with
6,000 labels amassed over 50 years. A
recent focus on small producers keeps
the list fresh.
RN74
Seattle
michaelmina.net/restaurants/seattle/
rn74-seattle/
To go with the local seafood-meets-
French bistro menu, Wine Director
Jeffrey Lindsay-Thorsen has amassed
a like-minded list: More than 100
Washington wines with detailed
producer bios, and one of the deepest
Burgundy selections in the Northwest.
Don’t miss the seasonal “Market List”
of 100 bottles under $100.
Rustic Canyon
Santa Monica, CA
rusticcanyonwinebar.com
Wine Director Kathryn Coker has
added a number of back-vintage and
high-end trophy wines. Yet, the list still
favors small, independent producers,
just as Chef Jeremy Fox’s food
applauds farmers and fishermen.
Sauvage
Brooklyn, NY
ED ALLER (REEDS); JENNIFER CASWELL (REEF); SIERRA PRESCOTT (REPUBLIQUE); HEIDI GELDHOUSER (EUGENE); KEVIN MCCOULLOUGH
sauvageny.com
From the team behind Williamsburg’s
Maison Premier, this Greenpoint
outpost features a primarily French
wine list, particularly strong in bottles
from the Loire Valley, with good
representation from underappreciated
regions like Languedoc, Roussillon and
Beaujolais.
(RN74); EMILY HART ROTH (RUSTIC CANYON); PAUL WAGTOUICZ (SAUVAGE); RYAN YAMAMOTO (SENIA)
Senia
Honolulu
restaurantsenia.com
The centerpiece of this ambitious
entry to Honolulu’s restaurant scene
is a multicourse “Chef’s Counter” near
the open kitchen. Chefs Chris Kajioka,
a native Hawaiian, and English-born
Anthony Rush brought on Kauai-born
Wine Director Chris Ramelb, fresh off
his triumph as the highest scorer on the
Court of Master Sommeliers Advanced
Exam.
 AMERICA’S I 100 BEST WINE RESTAURANTS I 2017

FLX Table
Brown Butter
Caramel
Courtesy Christopher Bates, MS,
chef and sommelier, FLX Table,
Geneva, New York

FLX Table works this caramel into

seasonal desserts year-round—
always serving jars at the table for
guests to help themselves.

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup granulated sugar
½ cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon kosher salt

Brown butter in heavy skillet (ide-

ally with light-colored bottom)
by cooking over medium heat and
whisking or swirling pan until
foaming has subsided and butter is
golden-brown with a nutty aroma.
Remove from heat and pour into
a bowl, leaving as much sediment
behind as possible.
Heat sugar in heavy, deep
saucepan over medium heat. As
sugar starts to melt, stir gently
with heatproof rubber spatula.
When sugar is completely melted
and deep brown in color (it should
register 330˚F on a candy ther-
mometer), add cream very slowly
(it will bubble up). Whisk to break
any clumps and make sure cream is
well-incorporated, about 1 minute.
Remove from heat and whisk in 3
tablespoons of brown butter and
salt. Let cool before serving. Makes
about 1 cup.

PAIR IT
D’Oliveiras 1910 Sercial Madeira

PENNY DE LOS SANTOS, FOOD STYLING: MARIANA VELASQUEZ

“I would eat this with the oldest
example of D’Oliveiras Sercial you
can track down,” says Chef and
Sommelier Bates, “preferably close
to 100 years old—it will be worth
whatever you can afford to spend!
The caramel, passion fruit and spice
notes, as well as the bright fresh acid
will balance and contrast the rich,
buttery smokiness of the caramel.”

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017


Garda Lake in Trentino
OFTEN CALLED THE MOST BEAUTIFUL
MOUNTAINS IN THE WORLD, the UNESCO-
recognized Dolomites of northern Italy soar
heavenward behind Trentino’s fertile pastures.
Fortunately, you needn’t understand their
fascinating geology—like how they once formed
an enormous tropical coral reef—to appreciate
their magnificence. The same can be said of the
sparkling wine produced at the foot of these
stony towers. Recognized by its collective
trademark Trentodoc, corresponding to the Doc
Trento appellation, the region’s bottle-fermented
sparklers have long captivated consumers on the
base of their elegance, aroma, and taste alone.
Yet wine lovers wonder why Italy’s finest
bubbles prove as unique as their origin.
Perhaps it’s the place: pure alpine sunlight
mixed with warm days and cool nights imparts
freshness and finesse. Seventy-seven percent
of Trentino’s vineyards lie above 3280 feet.
Or the people: those who meticulously tend
the hillside vineyards and run the cellars, as
they’ve done for generations. Or it’s the
practice: winemakers adhere to long-
established, stringent quality standards from
fruit selection, to craftsmanship, to varying
degrees of bottle aging. Indeed, all these
trentodoc.com For more information contact bollicine@trentodoc.com
S P E C I A L P R O M OT I O N
factors contribute to Trentodoc’s inimitable
character, earning Trentino Italy’s first
classic method D.O.C. in 1993, one of the
first worldwide.
Since the beginning of the 20th century,
classic method or metodo classico, has been
the sole production process employed for
Trentodoc because its pioneers, like Giulio
Ferrari, pursued excellence over excess.
To that end, only the best varieties were, and
continue to be, planted: Chardonnay for
longevity and rich aroma, and Pinot Nero for
elegance, structure, and body. After making
a base wine, a second fermentation followed
by slow lees aging, occurs in the bottle. The
regulated aging periods range from 15 to 36
months, allowing Trentodoc wines to develop
wonderful complexity. Today, all producers
exceed these requirements, some wines laid
down nearly a decade before release.
Trentodoc’s partnership with the prestigious
Master of Wine organization further testifies to
the caliber and character of its mountain
sparklers. With just 45 producers of approxi-
mately eight million bottles, always look for the
trademark logo on the label to ensure you’re
buying a Trentodoc original.
 AMERICA’S I 100 BEST WINE RESTAURANTS I 2017
Sepia
Chicago
sepiachicago.com
Sepia’s wine list is infused with
personal reflections of its somme-
liers, who give off-the-beaten-path
recommendations in anecdotal form.
Beverage Director Arthur Hon offers
options at various levels of maturity by
the bottle or glass.
Spiaggia
Chicago
spiaggiarestaurant.com
Still an icon of the Chicago dining
scene, Spiaggia continues to innovate.
Fans of Barolo, Barbaresco and
Brunello can indulge in a swoon-
worthy selection of Italian classics, put
together by Beverage Director Rachael
Lowe, in addition to a thorough
offering of grower Champagnes.
Spoon and Stable
Minneapolis
spoonandstable.com
James Beard Award-winning Chef
Gavin Kaysen marries French technique
with Midwest seasonality at this
North Loop hotspot in a renovated
horse stable. The wine program, now
overseen by Nicolas Giraud, focuses on
cool-climate wines from the Northern
Hemisphere.
72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
Studio
Laguna Beach, CA
montagehotels.com/lagunabeach/dining/
studio
Featuring Chef Craig Strong’s France-
comes-to-California cuisine, and
a 2,500-plus bottle list created by
Sommelier Troy Smith, this upscale
oceanfront bungalow is a place to
explore wines in various formats as
well as emerging wineries.
Taberna de Haro
Brookline, MA
tabernaboston.com
Here, Spanish wine specialist Deborah
Hansen is currently loving cool-climate
bottlings from Ribeira Sacra and
Ribeiro. Her ever-growing Sherry list is
now at 84 selections.
Tannin Wine Bar & Kitchen
Kansas City, MO
tanninwinebar.com
Flourishing under new Executive Chef
Pablo Muñoz-Sevilla, Tannin serves
globally accented Midwest comfort
food alongside a diverse wine list that
includes almost 100 glass pours (also
available as a taste).
Townsend
Philadelphia
townsendrestaurant.com
The strengths of a focused list are
evident here. The staff receives
extensive weekly training on the
50-something wines that General
Manager and Wine Director Lauren
Harris chooses for their terroir expres-
sion and the winemakers’ stories. It
pairs well with the intimacy of the
dining room and Townsend Wentz’s
take on French cuisine.
Trentina
Cleveland
restauranttrentina.com
The geographic and climactic similari-
ties between Ohio’s Cuyahoga Valley
and northern Italy are Chef Jonathon
Sawyer’s inspiration for Trentina, where
foraged ingredients star in dishes like
lamb belly with hay-scented cream,
charred chicory, strawberry and basil.
The wine list moves from northern Italy
into Germany and Austria.
Troquet On South
Boston
troquetboston.com
After 16 years, this wine destination
moved to a new location in Boston’s
Leather District. With the move came
a larger cellar, larger kitchen and
rejuvenated energy.
Two Birds One Stone
Napa, CA
twobirdsonestonenapa.com
This California-inspired yakitori owned
by partner/chefs Sang Yoon and
Douglas Keane is housed inside the
newly renovated Freemark Abbey
Winery, combining an Old World list
with tap wines made exclusively for
the restaurant by local winemakers.
Corkage is free for any Napa or Sonoma
bottle.
PAUL STRABBING (SEPIA); GALDONES (SPIAGGIA); ORIEN BAKER (TANNIN); BRITTANY GRAHAM (TRENTINA); MICHAEL WOOSLET (2 BIRDS)
Vedge
Philadelphia
vedgerestaurant.com
The deep, concentrated flavors of
Rich Landau’s plant-based menu are
complemented by a wine list focused
on natural-minded Mediterranean
producers compiled by partner Kate
Jacoby, who also serves as pastry chef
and sommelier.
Waypoint
Cambridge, MA
waypointharvard.com
Michael Scelfo opened Waypoint
last year with a seafood-heavy menu
that also features pizza and pasta.
The playful wine list created by Wine
Director Jen Fields is organized into
categories like “Vitamins & Minerals”
and “Structure.”
 ALSACE

ROC
These seven
grand crus
produce some
of France’s—if
not the world’s—
greatest wines.

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

CKS
BY ANNE KREBIEHL, MW
P H OTO S B Y JENS JOHNSON

T
he prerequisites for great wines
often include cool climate,
ample sunshine and unique
soils. Add grape varieties that
express those characteristics
and winegrowers who aim for the highest
quality, and greatness is within reach. All of
those elements come together in Alsace.
The vineyards of Alsace lie within a narrow
75-mile strip of land that runs along the
north-south spine of the Vosges Mountains
in northeastern France. The 51 best parcels
are designated grand cru—choice spots that
dot the headlands and foothills of the wooded
peaks, never on the plain.
These plots face east, southeast and, due
to numerous lateral valleys, also south, which
provides optimal sun exposure. The region’s
complex geology, a function of the Upper
Rhine rift, means that each grand cru boasts
its own unique soils.
France’s appellation authorities named the
first Alsace grand cru in 1975, and they added
more sites in 1983, 1992 and 2007. Despite
those expansions, the grand crus repre-
sent just eight percent of the region’s vine-
yard surface, and they contribute a mere four
percent of Alsace’s production. Although a
relatively modern creation, the grand crus are
historic, and their wines have been prized for
centuries.
Some of the vineyard boundaries are
controversial, like anywhere in the world
where growers try to classify land. A legal
change in 2011, however, allows each grand
cru to have its own, specific set of regula-
tions, which has encouraged growers to reas-
sess each site.
Each of the 51 grand crus boasts a spirit
and personality of its own, so it may seem
unfair to highlight just seven of them. But
these are truly la crème de la crème.

WINEMAG.COM | 75
Rangen
Everything about the Rangen Grand Cru is
extreme. It’s the southernmost of all the grand
crus, as well as the highest and steepest, as it
rises from 1,050 feet to 1,470 feet above sea level
and faces due south. The only grand cru with
volcanic soils, Rangen’s vines seem to grow right
out of the naked stones. It’s a suntrap whose dry,
stonewall terraces are warm to the touch, even
on frigid, sunny winter days.
The high altitude, steepness and exposure
unite opposing extremes, which creates
dramatic wines of historic renown.
“There’s great longevity in these wines,
but also a huge capacity to balance every-
thing: alcohol, acidity, residual sweetness,”
says Alexandre Schoffit, who grows Riesling,
Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat here
with his father, Bernard, for the family domaine.
“There always is balance and always saltiness
on the finish.”
“The ground is very poor,” says Bernard. “The
roots have to go deep to find nourishment.” This
leads to low yields.
“Right from the beginning, everything is
concentrated,” Alexandre adds. Morning mist
also makes part of the Rangen perfect for noble
sweet wines. “We have botrytis almost every
year, but it’s really clean, pure and intense.”
Domaine Zind-Humbrecht also farms
Riesling, Pinot Gris and some Gewurztraminer
on this mountainside.
“The Rangen has an incredible energy,”
says domaine owner and winemaker Olivier
Humbrecht, France’s first Master of Wine. “There
are many great vineyards around the world that
make good wine. But a wine that is extraordinary
needs something more than just the slope, soil
and so on. At some point, you have to go beyond
technical explanations.
“It needs something that elevates the wine,
something that conveys a strong force, an
energy, a strong personality. When you are in the
76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
vineyard, you feel it is a good place, a place you
have to respect. You cannot bargain with this
vineyard. You either accept what it can do, or
you don’t do it.”
With mechanization impossible on such a
steep slope, Humbrecht emphasizes that the
site demands absolute quality.
“You cannot exploit a vineyard as difficult as
Rangen and make generic wine,” he says.
For Humbrecht, who stresses the long
growing season of the site and its high day-night
temperature swings, the “most obvious link to
the vineyard is that the wines are usually very
powerful, thick with a fine, salty acidity that will
never be sharp.”
To show their full potential, Rangen wines
need bottle age. The resulting wines are almost
timeless, as evidenced by Humbrecht’s incred-
ible dry Riesling from 1983. It just takes one sip
to experience the magic of Rangen.
Yet, despite an ample track record of the cru’s
greatness, Bernard Schoffit expresses humility.
“After 30 years of working on this slope, we
slowly begin to understand this vineyard,” he says.
96  Domaine
Schoffit 2007
Clos Saint-Théobald
Rangen Sélection de
Grains Nobles Pinot Gris;
$80/500 ml. Weygandt-
Metzler.
96  Domaine Zind-
Humbrecht 2014
Clos Saint Urbain Ran-
gen de Thann Riesling;
$120. Kobrand. Cellar
Selection.
95  Biecher & Schaal
2015 Rangen
de Thann Riesling; $50.
Distinctive Domaines.
Geisberg
Geisberg is another steep, terraced, south-facing site that rises to 1,150 feet above sea level. The lower
portion lies right in the timbered village of Ribeauvillé. Standing in the vineyard, you look directly down on
the tiled, red roofs of the medieval houses.
It’s wedged between two other grand crus: Kirchberg to the west and Osterberg to the east. While
they’re all steep and based on Triassic limestone, sandstone and marl formations, their exposure is
different. Geisberg faces fully south and is an excellent site for Riesling.
Interestingly, Geisberg’s most famous wine, the legendary Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile by Domaine
Trimbach, has never borne this site name on the label. It’s a blend of Geisberg and Osterberg.
However, since 2008, Domaine Trimbach has leased another part of the Geisberg from the local
convent. It now bottles this limestone-rich parcel separately and lists Geisberg on the label.
“Today, we have to talk about grands crus in Alsace,” says 14th-generation family member Anne
Trimbach. “Some people say soil makes Riesling speak, but perhaps it’s the other way round.”
The domaine is known for its precise, taut style.
“It’s always windy in the Geisberg, and that’s why the wines always have this acidity, this tension,”
Trimbach explains. “Then there is the bone-dry style in which we vinify. When the wine is young, it is very
austere. But with age, it’s a little fleshier.”
She’s convinced that the wines from Geisberg need bottle age to show their true potential. It was her
grandfather, Bernard, who started the tradition of keeping single-site Rieslings
for late release—an expensive practice that the family still adheres to today.
“He was thinking ahead as early as the 1950s and really had to tighten his 95  Trimbach 2008
Cuvée Frédéric
Emile Riesling; $60.
belt to make this happen. Merci, grandpapa!” says Anne. “The wines are a bit
Esprit du Vin.
shy when they’re young, but we release them when we think they are ready.”
The current release of Cuvée Frédéric Emile is the 2008 vintage.
She also likens the wine style to her father, Pierre, who makes it.
91  André Kientzler
2014 Geisberg

“At first he’s a bit reserved, but after a little while he’s totally at ease.”
Riesling (Alsace); $90.
AP Wine Imports. Muenchberg
Muenchberg, the most northernly of the seven
vineyards, was created as part of a monastic
settlement in the 12th century. The soil is red
sandstone with volcanic sediments from some
250 million years ago. André Ostertag, who
farms biodynamically here, takes the grand cru
idea beyond physical properties.
“It’s not at all about soil and climate and
perfect drainage and all of these rational things,”
he says. “What makes a grand cru is, first of all,
beauty. Second is force—a power, a place where
you feel the elements. Third is wisdom. This is
difficult to explain in scientific parameters. What
makes a grand cru is all of these elements, but
they only come together when there is a human
being behind it.”
Gazing at the Muenchberg’s sinuous slopes
from a distance and later standing in the
vineyard, the deep stillness and peace of this
secluded valley becomes apparent. The Riesling
from this densely planted site has the same
quiet, convincing power.
The site is “absolutely protected, almost
hidden, a microcosm in itself,” says Ostertag. “A
very gentle, very soft amphitheatre. The place
is very complete. It’s
between something
that is sacred and
95  Domaine
Ostertag 2014
Muenchberg Riesling;
magical.” $65. Kermit Lynch
Wine Merchant.

WINEMAG.COM | 77
Vorbourg
Jutting into the broad plain, just above the
village of Rouffach, is Grand Cru Vorbourg, which
provided Heddo, the Archbishop of Strasbourg, a
source of income in the eighth century.
Meaning “foothill,” compared to the tall
Vosges behind it, with peaks that reach to
4,600 feet above sea level, Vorbourg lives up
to its name. But it rises steeply, with terraces,
dry-stone walls and a rocky outcrop, to about
935 feet. The grand cru is south-southeast
facing and dominated by different limestone
formations and clay. Its core parcel, known as
Clos Saint Landelin, faces due south.
“We have sunshine almost all day, and it’s
protected from the cold winds that come from
the lateral Soulzmatt valley,” says Véronique
Muré, who farms here with her brother, Thomas.
“But we also have a warm wind, called foehn.”
Foehn results when Atlantic winds hit the
western side of the Vosges Mountains, which
compress and warm the gusts. That allows the
winds to rise across the mountains and ventilate
the grapes in the Vorbourg vineyard.
“This really lowers the disease pressure,”
Thomas says.
The limestone in Clos Saint Landelin is
covered with a thin layer of iron-rich clay that has
a lovely reddish tint.
“The link between the geology and the wines
is that the limestone subsoil gives a certain
direction and straightness,” says Véronique. “At
the same time, we have this rich clay, which gives
fullness and roundness and power.”
The Murés grow mostly Riesling and Pinot
Noir on Vorbourg, with a little Pinot Gris, Muscat,
Sylvaner and Gewurztraminer. Riesling is on
the terraces, while Pinot Noir is planted on the
windiest part of the vineyard, where there is the
most iron in the soil.
78 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
Interestingly, Pinot Noir is not currently
allowed as a grand cru variety—only Riesling,
Pinot Gris, Muscat and Gewurztraminer have
that privilege. (The sole exception to that is
Sylvaner, in the Zotzenberg Grand Cru.) But
that’s set to change: Vorbourg will be among
the first grand crus for Pinot Noir. Ratification by
French authorities is expected by next year.
The Muré siblings believe in the absolute
affinity between Pinot Noir and Vorbourg.
“Vorbourg is not about aroma, but about
texture,” Thomas says.
They both believe that high-density planting
helps express the site’s character. These Pinot
Noirs offer freshness and graceful power
derived from fruit concentration, rather than
from extraction. Véronique mentions the “tight
and elegant tannins,” while Thomas says that
Alsace Pinot Noirs are less about richness and
more about structure and subtle balance.
The Riesling from Vorbourg, on the other
hand, Thomas describes as “crystalline.” But
brother and sister also find a rounder phenolic
texture that Thomas attributes to the rich clay,
balanced by limestone salinity.
95  René Muré
2014 Clos Saint
Landelin Vorbourg
Riesling; $50. Gargouille
Collection.
92  Dopff & Irion
2009 Vorbourg
Pinot Gris; $30. Dreyfus,
Ashby & Co.
90  René Muré 2014
Signature Pinot
Noir; $25. Gargouille
Collection.
Schoenenbourg
Close to the village of Riquewihr, Schoenenbourg has enjoyed international fame since the 16th century.
It rises to 1,250 feet above sea level, but its middle section is most prized.
“Schoenenbourg is, I think, one of the most complex sites from a geological point of view,” says Jean-
Christophe Bott of Domaine Bott-Geyl, as he points to the mid slope. “It’s a marl-keuper soil, a Triassic
formation, with a high amount of gypsum, but you also have sandstone and limestone formations from
that same period.
“I think the gypsum brings something very specific to the wine, something complex and somehow
bitter, like mandarin and orange peel, something vibrant but delicate,” he says. “The Schoenenbourg wines
have spirit, but are suave.”
Bott says Schoenenbourg is a late-ripening site—it’s always the last vineyard he picks—but the wines
have an exceptional ability to age. “They are a little introverted when they are young. Complexity arrives
over time,” he says. “It’s is one of the most emblematic sites of Alsace.”
The Hugel family also owns land in this vineyard and have traditionally bottled the wines from this
site under their Jubilee label. More recently, they’ve singled out one particular mid-slope parcel, known as
Schoelhammer, which has been in the family for more than 100 years. Winemaker Marc Hugel says that
their 15 parcels of Riesling in the Schoenenbourg have been vinified separately for the past 15 to 20 years.
“Every year, the Schoelhammer gave us the most interesting wine,” he says. “It really represents the
essence, spirit and personality of Schoenenbourg, so in 2007, we decided to
bottle it separately.”
That 2007 wine wasn’t released until 2015.
95  Domaine
Bott-Geyl 2014
Schoenenbourg Riesling;
“Some white wines need to age, much more so than people think,” says $41. David Bowler Wine.
Jean-Frédéric Hugel, Marc’s nephew, and the 13th generation to work in the
family winery. “Schoenenbourg wines start to get interesting at seven years.
At around 10, they open up. After 20, they reach their plateau and can be drunk
92  Dopff Au Moulin
2014 Schoenen-
bourg Riesling; $34.
for 40 years. We release wines when we think they are starting to get ready.” Heritage Wine Cellars.

Hengst
Hengst means “stallion,” and this grand cru,
dating to the 9th century, lives up to the name
with wildly powerful wines. The site slopes
down from 1,180 to 885 feet toward the village
of Wettolsheim and faces southeast. The soil of
calcareous marl doesn’t look as stony as some
other vineyards.
While Riesling and Pinot Noir do well here,
Gewurztraminer excels. Maxime Barmès farms
all three varieties, planted more than 50 years
ago. He runs Domaine Barmès-Buecher with
his sister, Sophie, and mother, Geneviève. Since
2014, he has farmed his parcel of Hengst solely
by horse to avoid soil compaction.
“Hengst is rich—it’s a generous grand cru,”
says Maxime. “It gives spice and rich fruit to
the Gewurztraminer, lots of phenolic power to
Riesling, and both tannin and color to Pinot Noir.
“There also is lots of iron in the soil. When it’s
humid in spring and summer, you can see how
red the soil is,” he says. “Hengst amplifies every-
thing. It adds a masculine factor to each grape
variety. For me, the
typicity of the Hengst
is strength, ripe acidity
94  Domaine
Barmès-
Buecher 2014 Hengst
and a fresh finish.” Gewurztraminer; $48.
Petit Pois.

WINEMAG.COM | 79
Schlossberg
Schlossberg was the first grand cru, desig- “It requires a lot of work, but it brings out a
nated in 1975. It also was the first vineyard that sort of salinity in the wines,” Catherine says. “You
compelled all owners to restrict yields via a 1928 encourage a deeper root system and favor the
charter, though the site has been famous since development of soil organisms. There are a lot of
the 15th century. worms, flowers and birds nesting in the vineyard.
The Schlossberg is a south-facing, terraced It just brings life.”
vineyard with granitic soils. It rises to 1,150 While the Fallers also have a little plot of
feet above sea level behind the villages of Pinot Noir on the same parcel, they agree that
Kaysersberg and Kientzheim. Between the vines Schlossberg seems made for Riesling.
are shards of rock that shimmer and glisten in “Every grand cru has its own characteris-
the sunlight. tics, but what is very important is the work in
One of the estates to hold land here is the vineyard,” Catherine says. “It takes a lot of
Domaine Weinbach, run by Catherine Faller, with work and a lot of effort, and both Riesling and
the help of her son, Théo. Schlossberg are demanding, but the wine is
“It really is Riesling terroir,” Catherine our reward. There is no compromise. The drive
says. “Riesling is like a gem: It is hard, but like for excellence and quality cannot be compro-
a diamond, it is carved and polished by the mised here.”
Schlossberg. Riesling is a demanding grape
variety. It requires low yields, especially in the
Schlossberg.”
She says the stony soils composed of
granite, gneiss and quartz retain the warmth of
the sunshine and help ripen the grapes. To her,
Schlossberg Rieslings always have “raciness,
elegance and florality.”
“The Rieslings are expressive when they are
young, but also age beautifully,” she says. “The
wines are never one-dimensional.”
Théo points to the Schlossberg’s steepness,
96  Domaine Wein-
bach 2015 Clos
des Capucins Cuvée Ste
where terraces were built hundreds of years ago. Catherine Schlossberg
“It’s difficult to work,” says Théo. “The Riesling; $64. Vineyard
Brands.
Schlossberg does not like weeds. It is very
well drained, and so the weeds would take
water away from the vines.” The rows have to 94  Jean-Baptiste
Adam 2014
Schlossberg Riesling;
be plowed, and the stone walls that form the
$54. The Sorting Table.
terraces often have to be repaired and rebuilt.
Théo estimates that the Schlossberg takes
about 40 percent longer to farm biodynamically
93  Paul Blanck 2012
Schlossberg
Riesling; $36. Skurnik
than flatter vineyards. Wines.

80 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

location, location,
location,

Introducing Cherry Pie Pinot Noir. Wine with a distinct

sense of place, from hand-picked vineyards in California.
From gravelly, well-draining sites in Monterey, elevated
vineyards on steep slopes in the Sonoma Coast, and
warm, sandy soils in Santa Barbara, each cluster begins
with the influence of its surroundings.

Welcome to our neighborhood,

to our home, to the vineyards of Cherry Pie wines.

@cherrypiewines | cherrypiewines.com
BEER TRENDS OF 2017
WHAT’S
BREWING
Six hot topics that are defining the
American beer market today
BY LAUREN BUZZEO
P H OTO BY M EGA N BAG G OT T
Back to basics
There was a time when craft beer seemed to
be all about the wildest, weirdest or craziest
brews you could make or find. Today, demand
has grown for beers that some might call bor-
ing, yet others consider stylish, well-balanced
and high-quality. Finding a stable of pale ales,
dry stouts, pilsners, brown ales and others that
are both true to style and exceptional in quality
is no small task. While change is good, and vari-
ety may be the spice of life, every now and then,
you just want to relax with a well-made classic
(or three).
82 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
IPA won’t go away . . .
but it speaks softer
While they’ve largely mellowed from the days of
palate-assaulting bitterness, IPAs are still red-
hot. According to the Brewers Association, IPAs
were the most popular beer style produced in
2016, accounting for 25.4 percent of sales, and
had the largest growth rate (22.6 percent). The
experimentation and variety within the Amer-
ican IPA subcategory continues, while session
offerings showed fast sales growth. These sta-
tistics suggest that consumers are seeking IPAs
with low to moderate alcohol levels, supported
by growth in English, white and fruited styles.
HOPS AND GRAINS PROVIDED BY CAPTAIN LAWRENCE BREWING CO
Malts are the new hops
We’ve seen much focus placed on hops: new
varieties, types prominently listed on product
labels, dry vs. wet, whole vs. powder and more.
But, like oak’s influence in wine, hops are used
in varying techniques and degrees. Perhaps
even more crucial to beer production are the
malts. Malts, along with water, yeast and hops,
form the foundation of a beer, lending color, fla-
vor, protein (for head retention), dextrins (for
mouthfeel) and maltose (fermentable sugars).
Watch for brewers that recognize the potential
of specialty malts, like heirloom wheat and rye
varieties, ancient grains and barley strains.

Cheers to your own beer!
Homebrewing continues to grow in popularity,
and if you haven’t made the jump yet, it’s easier
than ever before. Similar to a pod-based coffee
maker, PicoBrew’s new Model C offers conve-
nience, delicious results and is ideal for begin-
ners. The pods, called PicoPaks, are available
from respected brewers like Rogue, Coronado,
Oakshire and Tallgrass. Ready to be bold? The
PicoBrew Freestyle tool lets you customize your
own beer recipes.
Fruity pleasures
Fruit beers have endured a so-so reputation
in the past, but consumers have increasingly
moved beyond such misgivings. In terms of style,
fruit beers can be just about anything: a lager,
pale ale, or bolder styles like stout, sour ale or
IPA. The best examples strike a balance between
the base beer’s profile and natural fruit flavors,
either in dried, peel, purée or whole form (like
berries). Check out breweries that work with
local fruit, like New Glarus’s Wisconsin Belgian
Red, Bruery Terreux’s Pommereux or Captain
Lawrence’s Hudson Valley Harvest Sour lineup.
A question of loyalty
At the beginning of the current craft-beer boom,
a few savvy, fun-loving brewers stood out by
creating personality and stories for their brands.
That marketing approach resonated with
consumers. As these trailblazers and the overall
market have grown, such impact has lessened.
With so many options to choose, thirsty
consumers will often taste across a favorite
brand’s portfolio and move on to the next new
thing. The result is a decline in brand loyalty. Look
for breweries (and brewers) to return to their
storytelling roots with emphasis on commit-
ment to local markets, passion for products and
devotion to the craft-beer community.
WINEMAG.COM | 83
 BUYINGGUIDE

AUGUST
LOREN J. ROOT

IN THIS MONTH’S GUIDE

86 CALIFORNIA 128 GERMANY ONLINE EXCLUSIVES
108 OREGON 130 NORTHEAST ITALY
ROSÉS FROM AROUND THE WORLD
112 WASHINGTON 131 HUNGARY More than 200 rosés reviewed, including selections from Bordeaux,
California, Oregon, Portugal, Washington and beyond.
114 CHILE 132 CROATIA
117 AUSTRALIA 132 BULGARIA CALIFORNIA REDS
Reviews of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Syrah and more.
118 PORTUGAL 133 GEORGIA
122 SPAIN 134 SPIRITS FRENCH FRENZY
Summer-friendly wines from the Loire Valley, and additional
123 ALSACE 135 BEER reviews from Alsace, including stunning Rieslings and Pinot Gris.
126 BORDEAUX
FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT WINEMAG.COM/RATINGS
WINEMAG.COM | 85
BUYINGGUIDE
CALIFORNIA
White wines from the Central Coast soar
W
hen Chardonnay was planted in the
Santa Maria Valley and Monterey
County in the 1960s, the vines were
primarily aimed at satisfying the
demands of the burgeoning Napa Valley scene.
But in the decades since, Central Coast wine-
makers have raised their own white wine game,
and that quality-focused mission shows no
signs of slowing down.
Given the history and rel-
atively cool climate through- There’s never been
out the Central Coast, Chardon- a better time to
nay continues to lead the pack.
bet on white wines Rieslings, and there’s never
That once-classic, “Cali Chard”
butterbomb style of yester-
from the Central
year is hard to find these days. Coast.
Instead, while there may be wel-
come hints of roasted nuts, cus-
tard and caramel, most Chardonnays ride the
acid side of the scale, alive with citrusy fresh-
ness. The best ones throw in savory sea salt and
chalky textures, giving white Burgundies a run
for their money.
But it’s not just Chardonnay. Top-tier Sau-
vignon Blanc abounds, whether in the decadent
Bordeaux or zesty Loire Valley styles. That’s
CHARDONNAY
96 D’Alfonso-Curran 2013 White Hills Vineyard
Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). This
Chardonnay—one of the best tasted in months—is
light in the glass and shows clean, refreshing, yet
compellingly rich sea salt, toasted sourdough, key
lime and daffodil aromas. Its unique palate blends
bright lemon-lime, Asian pear and Marcona almond
flavors with a crushed shell minerality that brings
the seashore to mind. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 13.6% Price: $65
95 Joseph Phelps 2015 Freestone Vineyards
Estate Grown Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast).
For full review see page 88.
abv: 14.1% Price: $55
86 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
especially true in Santa Barbara County, where
Brander, Margerum and Grassini Family winer-
ies are exploring a range of expressions.
Traditional white-Rhône varieties continue
to improve as well. Grenache Blanc shows the
most promise across the region; Viognier is
trending toward restraint rather than ripeness.
Meanwhile, the folks at Tablas Creek and Qupé
are making Roussanne and
Marsanne sing.
Throw in a handful of awe-
some Gewürztraminers and
been a better time to bet on
white wines from the Central
Coast.
Elsewhere in this issue’s
Buying Guide, we also
review hundreds of wines from Oregon and
Washington, as well as selections from around
the world, including Australia, Chile, Portugal,
Spain, France, Germany, Italy and more. And,
as always, be sure to check out our complete
database, with thousands more reviews, at
buyingguide.winemag.com
Cheers! —Matt Kettmann
94 Center of Effort 2013 Chardonnay (Edna Val-
ley). For full review see page 88.
abv: 14.3% Price: $35
94 Hunnicutt 2015 Chardonnay (Sonoma
Coast). This wine’s dark golden color opens
the door to a rich core of apple fruit wrapped in
toasted oak that’s well integrated and cohesive.
Vibrant and rich simultaneously, it shows the lush-
ness of the variety finely balanced with acidity. —V.B.
abv: 14.1% Price: $45
94 Joseph Phelps 2015 Pastorale Vineyard
Estate Grown Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast).
For full review see page 88.
abv: 14.1% Price: $75
93 Au Bon Climat 2013 Bien Nacido Vineyard
Santa Barbara Historic Collection Chardon-
nay (Santa Maria Valley). Jim Clendenen’s winery
has sat in the middle of Bien Nacido for decades, so
it is no wonder he nails the vineyard’s expression
with this bottling, beginning with flinty and woody
aromas that accent an orange custard creaminess
on the nose. The palate also shows cedar-like oak,
followed by waves of brioche, preserved lemon and
orange marmalade flavors. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $30
93 Au Bon Climat 2013 Nuits-Blanches au Bouge
Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Candied
lemon peel, Asian pear and marzipan hints show on
the slightly oxidative nose of this bottling from Jim
Clendenen. Ripe apple and pear flavors mark the
palate, along with a warm toast component, but a
Meyer lemon tang and bitter orange accents cut the
richness. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $35
93 Center of Effort 2014 Chardonnay (Edna
Valley). Though golden-hued in the glass,
this is rather mellow on the nose, with soft lemon
cream, toasted apple and marzipan aromas. The
palate shows intense acidic energy, with zippy, tight
and clean nectarine sorbet and Meyer lemon rind
flavors. —M.K.
abv: 14.2% Price: $35
93 Chacewater 2014 Teal Bartolucci Vineyards
Big Valley Ranch Made With Organically
Grown Grapes Chardonnay (Lake County). For full
review see page 89. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.2% Price: $33
93 Chasseur 2014 Sanctuary Chardonnay (Rus-
sian River Valley). From the producer’s best
barrels and best blocks of grapes, this wine deliv-
ers goodness from start to finish. It leads with oak,
honey and apple notes while its lush texture of bal-
anced acidity and generous fruit brings along rocky
minerality. —V.B.
abv: 14.1% Price: $60
93 Clendenen Family 2012 Le Bon Climat Char-
donnay (Santa Maria Valley). A true family
effort—bottled with help of Jim Clendenen’s kids,
Knox and Isabelle—this deep, creamy and bal-
anced wine shows honeyed almond, buttercream
and Meyer lemon aromas. There’s a grapefruit-skin
freshness to the palate, rounded out with a warmth
recalling toasted brioche and pecans that carries
into the finish. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $50
93 Cottonwood Canyon 2014 Barrel Select Char-
donnay (Santa Maria Valley). For full review
see page 89.
abv: 13.5% Price: $48
93 Fess Parker 2015 Bien Nacido Vineyard Char-
donnay (Santa Barbara County). For full
review see page 89.
abv: 14.1% Price: $40
Continued on page 102
 The Wine Enthusiast
Buying Guide
The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release
and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine
Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular
contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director/Senior
Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Manag-
ing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Tasting Coordinators Carrie Dykes and
Fiona Adams, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C.
Iijima, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara New-
man in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Edi-
tor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl
in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and
Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt
and Sean Sullivan in Washington.
If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s ini-
99 Alpha Omega 2012 ERA (Napa Valley). This
blend from individual blocks includes 94%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc and 2%
98 Alpha Omega 2012 Beckstoffer Las Piedras
Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). This
bold, broad-shouldered wine shows focused truffle,
tials appear following the note. When no initials appear follow-
ing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more review- Merlot. Juicy and round, it expresses chocolate, gravel and cassis flavors. Densely layered, it’s 100%
ers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. vanilla, dark cherry and cassis flavors and is a joy varietal, 100% barrel-fermented and further aged
Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman
and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo.
to drink and experience evolve. Despite plenty of in new French oak. With its firm structure, it shows
Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its ripe power and lushness, it also boasts substantial plenty of ability to age and will be best from 2022
suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us elegance. —V.B. through 2023. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content
cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices abv: 15.1% Price: $300 abv: 15.1% Price: $250
are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.
TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS
All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind.
Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8
samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight
to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never
the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible,
products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.
ABOUT THE SCORES
Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product.
Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying
tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.
Classic 98–100:
The pinnacle of quality.
Superb 94–97:A great achievement.
Excellent 90–93:
Highly recommended.
Very Good 87–89:
Good 83–86:
Often good value; well recommended.
Suitable for everyday consumption;
often good value.
99 Alpha Omega 2012 Stagecoach Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Atlas Peak). Juicy and
seductively smooth, this blockbuster beauty from
98 Alpha Omega 2012 Beckstoffer Missouri
Hopper Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville).
From another of the grower’s impressive, coveted
Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less-
critical circumstances. the revered vineyard site is big, bold and intense, sites, this wine imparts soft, dusty cherry, cas-
Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80
with granular tannins and a grip of integrated sis and pomegranate notes, with a luxurious tease
points) are not reviewed. French oak. Its bright cassis, lavender, Tahitian of vanilla and coconut macaroon. Full-bodied and
SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS vanilla and dried herb flavors are irresistible right robustly built, it’s 100% varietal and barrel-fer-
Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual- out the gate. Ripe and rewarding, it’s one to remem- mented and finishes on a compelling streak of cedar,
ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price ber. —V.B. herb and graphite. —V.B.
with unique qualities that merit special attention.
Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible abv: 15.6% Price: $250 abv: 14.9% Price: $250
and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to
reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation
does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but
that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In
general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.
Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in
relation to price. Wines meriting this award are generally priced
at $15 or less, and are designated Best Buys after surpassing a
specific quality-to-price ratio benchmark.
SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW
Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo-
cation as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/
contact-us. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review
Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast.
net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make
every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there
is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or
that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be
accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may
98 Alpha Omega 2012 Beckstoffer Dr. Crane
Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). From one
of the warmest sites in the grower’s stable, this
96 Au Bon Climat 2013 Knox Alexander Estate
Bottled Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). The
condensed pomegranate aroma on the nose of this
be downloaded from our Web site.
LABELS
barrel-fermented, 100% varietal wine is beguiling bottling from Jim Clendenen is beautifully spiced
Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given in its complete embrace of ripe, supple sunshine. with star anise, tobacco leaf, dried ginger and cin-
the opportunity to submit labels only after the reviews have been A grip of oak tannin helps support the exuberant, namon. The palate shows chai and Indian spice—
finalized and assigned to a specific issue. Labels are reproduced
and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information juicy, dark blue fruit, further defined by its soft tex- accents to the cranberry fruit that rides a fine line
on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax ture and underlying, focused acidity. —V.B. between ripe and tart. Although light in body, the
866.896.8786; or email dvalenza@wineenthusiast.net. abv: 14.8% Price: $250 tannic structure is firm enough to cellar for decades.
Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at Drink now–2033. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
winemag.com/ratings abv: 13.5% Price: $50

WINEMAG.COM | 87
BUYINGGUIDE
95 Joseph Phelps 2015 Freestone Vineyards
Estate Grown Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast).
Voluptuously succulent and welcoming, this coastal
wine seduces with its caramel apple, pear and pre-
served lemon flavors, edged with high-toned acidity
and an exotic touch of seaspray. That sense of the
sea plays out on the palate in texture, too, with a
stony note that lingers in nutty spice. —V.B.
abv: 14.1% Price: $55
95 Trimbach 2013 Réserve Riesling (Alsace).
Pure citrus zest rises from the glass: lovely,
ripe lemon and zesty lime. The palate reinforces
these flavors in a rapier-like fashion, with drive
and energy in a very linear energetic way. This seem
like an elixir or a tonic full of vim, all informed by
a central dynamic freshness. This has barely blos-
somed but promises much future pleasure. This
genie should be contained in its bottle for a while
longer before letting it loose. It’s something to look
forward to. Drink 2020–2035. Esprit du Vin. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $34
94 Center of Effort 2013 Chardonnay (Edna Val-
ley). This bottling from regional veteran
Mike Sinor shows touches of smoke, flint, Meyer
lemon peel, honeysuckle and crisp jicama on the
nose. A hint of ripe nectarine kicks off the palate
before its knee-buckling acidity takes hold, bringing
forth lemon peel, lime juice and more honeysuckle
elements. —M.K.
abv: 14.3% Price: $35
88 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
94 Cottonwood Canyon 2010 Elizabeth’s Vista
Estate Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley).
This wine is drinking well right now, benefiting
from the tertiary qualities that come from bottle
age yet remaining fresh and lively. Aromas of dried
red cherry, rust, sandalwood and hibiscus lead to
a spice-driven palate that’s bright in acidity. That
rusty cherry fruit comes through in flavor, boosted
by woody spice. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.8% Price: $48
94 Daou 2014 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paso Robles). Mocha cream, pencil shaving
and dried herb aromas are set against a backdrop
of black currant fruit in this big but balanced bot-
tling from the Daou brothers. It’s soft on the palate,
where the texture commands as much attention as
the flavors, in a matrix of mouth-coating tannins
that frame its cola, cocoa, black plum and cherry
notes. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $85
94 Elyse 2013 Holbrook Mitchell Vineyard Cab-
ernet Sauvignon (Yountville). From a vine-
yard in the western hills of the appellation, this wine
shows lovely cool-climate characteristics without
skimping on body or ripeness, expressing balance
and grace. Tightly wound, it leans savory and firm,
with clove, tobacco, black licorice and tomato leaf
flavors and big tannins that call for further ageing.
Enjoy 2023–2033. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14.7% Price: $50
94 Joseph Phelps 2015 Pastorale Vineyard
Estate Grown Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast).
Youthfully wound up yet fleshy, this wine slowly
opens to reveal a sense of crispness, wet stone-like
minerality and a taste of fog from the nearby Pacific
Ocean. Apple skin, Meyer lemon and key lime fla-
vors provide upfront freshness; toasted oak and
almond qualities add substance and weight. —V.B.
abv: 14.1% Price: $75
94 Joseph Phelps 2014 Quarter Moon Vineyard
Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
From another of the producer’s coastal estate sites,
this wine is juicy, spicy and leathery—a celebration
of fresh wild strawberries and buzzy acidity. Earth,
rose and white pepper flavors add welcome com-
plexity within a tightly woven frame of structure
and length. —V.B.
abv: 14.1% Price: $75
94 Krupp Brothers 2014 Stagecoach Vineyard
The Doctor Red Wine (Napa Valley). Dr.
Jan Krupp’s signature wine, this boldly blends
36% Tempranillo with red Bordeaux varieties, all
mountain-grown on rocky soils. Brown sugar, red
cherry, clove and meat flavors contribute to its den-
sity, packed into an integrated frame and finishing
on a rich chocolate note. Enjoy 2024–2034. Cellar
Selection. —V.B.
abv: 15.1% Price: $100
94 Santa Carolina 2011 Herencia Carmenère
(Peumo). Over the last few years, Herencia
has risen to the top of Chile’s Carmenère kingdom.
This vintage opens with rich aromas of vanilla,
barrel spice, pepper, herbs and black fruits. A full
dense palate is balanced, while this tastes dark and
spicy, with lightly baked black-fruit flavors that fin-
ish intense and oaky. Drink through 2022. Carolina
Wine Brands USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 14.8% Price: $100
94 Williams Selyem 2015 San Benito County
Pinot Noir (Central Coast). This winery
always manages to pack in rich fruit and hearty
spice. This bottling shows bay leaf, anise, pine nee-
dle and black tea aromas that accent a core of plum.
That hearty dark fruit carries through to the palate
as well, but warms up with earthy soil, licorice and
minty fudge flavors. A luscious, lingering mouthful.
—M.K.
abv: 13.2% Price: $39
93 August Kesseler 2013 Cuvée Max Trocken
Pinot Noir (Rheingau). Bold, ripe black-
cherry and berry flavors pulsate from the core of this
voluptuous Pinot Noir. It’s a densely concentrated,
full-bodied wine but neatly integrated, nuanced
by subtle shades of spice, dark toast and bramble.
Crisp cranberry acidity freshens the finish. Drink
now through 2030. Vineyard Brands. —A.I.
abv: 13.5% Price: $116
93 Center of Effort 2014 Pinot Noir (Edna Val-
ley). This bottling shows deep black plum,
elderberry, rose and purple flower aromas. The pal-
ate is dense, with black plum and tart cranberry
enhanced by Earl Grey tea and potpourri. Thanks to
a strong tannic backbone and buoyant acidity, these
flavors are interesting now but will meld together
more compellingly in the years to come. Drink
2019–2034. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 14.4% Price: $45
93 Chacewater 2014 Teal Bartolucci Vineyards
Big Valley Ranch Made With Organically
Grown Grapes Chardonnay (Lake County). This wine
is subtle at first, but each sip brings more richness,
nuance and layers. Soft, lightly spicy vanilla aromas
lead the nose while Bosc pear, cream and marzipan
flavors unfold on the palate. The texture is rich from
the beginning and seems to grow more luxurious
as it opens, lingering long into the finish. Editors’
Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.2% Price: $33
93 Cottonwood Canyon 2014 Barrel Select
Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Minimal-
ist winemaker Norman Beko has been letting his
vineyard do the work since the 1980s, and this is
a classic result. Crushed pecan and smoked almond
aromas lead the nose, with a stunning honeysuckle-
and plumeria-like floral quality. The palate follows
suit with satisfyingly rich flavors, but lemony acid-
ity delivers a refreshing lift. —M.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $48
93 Domaine Divio 2015 Pinot Noir (Ribbon
Ridge). Smooth as silk and soft as butter,
this glides across the palate in a smoky, sexy and
seductive manner. Butter and berry, black cherry
and a finishing flourish of chocolate nibs, capped
with espresso, give this a complete start-to-finish
set of flavors. Drink now and over the next decade.
Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.7% Price: $48
93 Fess Parker 2015 Bien Nacido Vineyard Char-
donnay (Santa Barbara County). This bot-
tling from the historic vineyard boasts a balanced,
smoky quality on the nose that pairs well with its
sharper white flower and salted nut aromas. Its
acidity and tongue-tingling texture on the palate is
addictive, revealing ripe Gala apple flavors backed
by lemon juice, sea salt, oak and wet stone notes.
—M.K.
abv: 14.1% Price: $40
93 Joseph Phelps 2014 Pastorale Vineyard
Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
This coastal, cool-climate estate wine is fresh and
fruity, with plush tannins that feel velvety on the
tongue. Cranberry, pomegranate and orange flavors
provide complexity, complemented by black tea and
forest floor notes. —V.B.
abv: 13.9% Price: $75
WINEMAG.COM | 89
BUYINGGUIDE
93 Judge Palmer 2012 Beckstoffer Georges III
Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). Inviting,
exotic coconut and vanilla scents give this vineyard
designate a tropical flourish before more traditional
cassis and cherry notes take the lead. Bright acid-
ity counters velvety texture as the wine unfurls its
underlying grip of tannin. Approachably rich, it
rewards with full flavor and body. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $115
93 Merryvale 2013 Profile 30th Anniversary
Red Wine (Napa Valley). This vintage of the
hearty proprietary blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon, 12% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc
highlights the best of the harvest. It’s dense with
mouth-coating red fruit and a touch of sweetness
from oak. As it unwinds, more developed graph-
ite, black olive and dried herb accents come to life.
Enjoy 2023–2030. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14.8% Price: $200
93 Morgan 2015 Double L Vineyard Chardon-
nay (Santa Lucia Highlands). This excellent,
restrained bottling is compelling. Lemongrass, kaffir
lime and lemon-lime aromas lead into a palate laced
with fresh, high-toned citrus notes. More exotic
touches of sweet onion, yuzu and wet slate complete
the experience. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.2% Price: $42
90 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
93 Tenuta Roveglia 2014 Vigne di Catullo Riserva
(Lugana). Made from old vines, this stun-
ning wine opens with heady aromas of ripe apple
and fragrant white flower. Round and creamy, the
palate delivers Bartlett pear, white peach and nec-
tarine zest alongside fresh acidity. A white-almond
note graces the persistent finish. John Given Wines.
—K.O.
abv: 13% Price: $24
93 Trimbach 2014 Gewurztraminer (Alsace).
The aromas are rather shy on the nose—
there is just a mere floral whiff. The palate is dry
and lets us see subtle varietal aromas: golden peach,
a touch of honeysuckle spice, a hint of jasmine, aro-
matic orange zest. This is a restrained, streamlined
and elegant varietal expression. Drink now through
2030. Esprit du Vin. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $27
93 Trimbach 2014 Réserve Pinot Gris (Alsace). A
lifted, ethereal note of bitter almond suggests
the beginnings of evolution. The palate, on the other
hand, still seems closed but displays a streamlined
concentrated core of flawless dryness and precise
bundled freshness. This is taut, precise and sure to
develop. The finish is lasting, refreshing and clean.
Drink now through 2030. Esprit du Vin. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $26
93 Villa San Juliette 2013 Chorum Red Wine
(Paso Robles). This blend of 32% Syrah,
16% Grenache, 14% Petit Verdot, 12% Cabernet
Franc, 12% Alicante Bouschet, 7% Cabernet Sau-
vignon and 7% Petite Sirah truly sings, as the name
implies. A strong boysenberry pie aroma is lifted by
purple flower scents on the nose, and the palate’s
lush black cherry, vanilla and mocha spice flavors
are reminiscent of a dessert wine without being
sweet. —M.K.
abv: 15.2% Price: $25
92 Aperture 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma
County). This unusual barrel-fermented
white is blended with 5% Sauvignon Musqué for an
exotic take on the variety. Floral with apple blossom
scents, it reveals sharp acidity underlying its robust
fig, preserved lemon, wild vanilla and lemongrass
flavors. The texture is silky smooth. —V.B.
abv: 14.1% Price: $35
92 Archery Summit 2014 Archer’s Edge Estate
Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This is tongue-
scrapingly dry, underscoring its black raspberry
fruit with minerally acids. The drying tannins
carry a streak of cacao and there’s a touch of citrus
resonating through the finish. Best enjoyed with a
hearty entrée. —P.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $85
92 Archery Summit 2014 Premier Cuvée Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley). This entry-level
cuvée delivers as much pleasure in 2014 as the sin-
gle vineyard examples. It’s beautifully detailed, with
well-orchestrated flavors of citrus rind, red berry,
cherry, chocolate and coffee grounds. Tannins are
pinpoint focused as well, and it’s drinking beauti-
fully right out of the gate. —P.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $54
92 Au Contraire 2014 Mighty Mouse Reserve
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Pear
compote, salty lemon and limestone define the fla-
vor profile of this medium-bodied white that lives
up to its reserve-tier billing. Integrated oak meets
lifted acidity, providing a refreshing, food-friendly
experience. —V.B.
abv: 14.2% Price: $45
92 Casa Agricola Alexandre Relvas 2015 Her-
dade de São Miguel Alicante Bouschet (Alen-
tejano). This rich, smoke- and wood-flavored wine
shows great potential. It also has plenty of black
fruits that give it a ripe full character. The spice from
wood aging is still right up front and needs time to
settle down to become a dense, balanced wine with
fruit and structure all in place. Drink from 2019.
Quintessential Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 15% Price: $20
92 Domaine Pichot 2015 Le Peu de la Moriette
(Vouvray). This single vineyard wine has
enormous potential. At this stage it is dry and not
quite integrated. But with the rich fruitiness, the
hints of yellow fruits and the tight mineral char-
acter, this wine will age extremely well. Drink from
2021. Vineyard Brands. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $21
92 Doubleback 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Walla Walla Valley). This wine is a blend
of McQueen, Bob Healy and Lefore vineyard fruit,
aged 22 months in 73% new French oak. Alluring
aromas of macerated cherries, scorched earth, cof-
fee, barrel spice and dark chocolate are followed by
supple, focused, concentrated dark-fruit flavors. It
brings some tannic heft that will benefit from time
in the cellar. Best from 2023–2030. Cellar Selec-
tion. —S.S.
abv: 14.4% Price: $94
92 Dry Creek Vineyard 2014 Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Dry Creek Valley). This well-made
wine, blended with small percentages of Petit
Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Merlot, is an
astounding value. Currant and cranberry notes and
an underbelly of tannins play together in a smooth
texture of rich concentration. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $26
92 Durant 2014 La Casita Pinot Noir (Dundee
Hills). La Casita is made entirely from Dijon
clone 114. It’s a total “wow” wine, from the very first
sip. Rich black cherry, chocolate and caramel flavors
wrap tightly together. That firm and full-bodied
richness continues through the midpalate. Enjoy
this outstanding bottle over the next three or four
years. —P.G.
abv: 14.2% Price: $60
92 Flora Springs 2014 Trilogy (Napa Valley).
Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Petit Ver-
dot from the trio of this blend, yielding rounded, red
fruit-driven flavor. Dense tannins shoulder its body
and weight, as savory anise, dried herb and pencil
characteristics figure in. —V.B.
abv: 14.2% Price: $80
92 Jermann 2014 Vintage Tunina (Venezia
Giulia). One of Italy’s most celebrated
whites, this elegant wine opens with alluring scents
of white spring flower, white stone fruit and citrus.
Radiant and loaded with finesse, the vibrant palate
delivers yellow apple, Bartlett pear, nectarine and a
hint of ginger alongside bright acidity. LUX Wines.
—K.O.
abv: 13% Price: $69
WINEMAG.COM | 91
BUYINGGUIDE
92 Klinker Brick 2014 Old Ghost Old Vine Zinfan-
del (Lodi). While quite ripe and fruity, this
wine is also dry, nicely tannic and firmly textured,
so it will pair beautifully with rich proteins. Aged 18
months in oak, mostly French, it has concentrated
dark fruit aromas, and a layered array of flavors that
recalls blueberry, dark chocolate and blackberry
syrup. Bright acidity keeps everything in balance.
—J.G.
abv: 15.9% Price: $37
92 Ledson 2014 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Rus-
sian River Valley). Opening with an earthy
touch of compost and wild mint, this wine devel-
ops rich flavor within its broad frame of refresh-
ing acidity, including savory touches of cardamom,
cranberry and cola. The tension between fruit and
texture gives it complexity and nuanced power in
the glass. —V.B.
abv: 14% Price: $60
92 Matsu 2014 EL Viejo (Toro). Toro is known
for its massive wines, and this fits the bill.
Oak, tobacco and mocha aromas share space on the
nose with cassis and berry scents. Fully extracted
tannins and resiny oak create a sizable palate of
plum, cassis and vanilla flavors. Oak-derived spice
notes inflect the intense black fruit flavors on the
finish. Drink through 2026. Askari O.H. Cellar
Selection. —M.S.
abv: 15% Price: $60
92 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
92 Reustle 2015 Smaragd Grüner Veltliner
(Umpqua Valley). The highest priced among
the four different Grüners produced at the winery,
this elegant wine has the depth of the Reserve, the
minerality of the Dolium, and riper flavors than
either, with peach and melon dominating. Drink
this slightly chilled and it will pair beautifully with
just about all poultry and seafood. Editors’ Choice.
—P.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $32
92 Rodney Strong 2015 Estate Vineyards Char-
donnay (Sonoma Coast). This wine from
cool sites in the county overdelivers for its price.
Floral pear, nutmeg and orange peel flavors give it
crispness and a savory bite, as tart grapefruit notes
provide additional liveliness. Focused and bright,
it’s well worth stockpiling. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $25
92 Rodney Strong 2013 Alexander’s Crown Cab-
ernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Cedar,
graphite and concentrated plum aromas mark the
nose of this full-bodied wine from the southern
end of the appellation, where it’s cool and breezy
from the Pacific Ocean. Entirely varietal, it shows a
wealth of red and black berry fruitiness, dotted with
dried herb. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $75
92 Seven Hills 2014 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red
Wine (Red Mountain). This blend of Caber-
net Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit
Verdot from one of the state’s most esteemed vine-
yards brings aromas of baking spice, savory herb
and cherry. Flavors are medium bodied, with bright
acidity. The tannins currently show a bit of grit that
should soften with time. It will be best after 2022.
Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.9% Price: $55
92 Seven Hills 2014 Pentad Red Wine (Walla
Walla Valley). This blend of Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon, Petit Verdot, Carménère, Malbec and Caber-
net Franc offers aromas of purple fruit, green herb,
clove, barrel spice and spice box. It’s light and sup-
ple, filling out with palate-coating fruit flavors. The
tannins bring a bit of grip that softens with addi-
tional time open. Put it on the dinner table to see it
at its best. —S.S.
abv: 14.9% Price: $75
92 Seven Hills 2014 Seven Hills Vineyard Merlot
(Walla Walla Valley). This wine comes from
the original Merlot blocks at this vineyard, planted
in 1982. It’s aromatic, with notes of plum, rasp-
berry, clove and generous spices. The flavors coat
the palate from end to end, backed by firm tannins
that need time to soften out but have the strength
to go the distance. It will be best after 2022. Cellar
Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.7% Price: $45
92 Shannon 2013 Reserve Two Bud Block Zin-
fandel (Lake County). Winemaker Joy Mer-
rilees got more oomph out of Two Bud Block in
2013. A deeper than usual color, darker than nor-
mal fruit flavors and a satisfying, dark chocolate
and cappucino richness on the palate make this big,
luxurious wine stand out. The flavors are fruity but
distinctive, blending blackberry, black cherry and
mocha. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 15.1% Price: $32
92 Skinner 2014 Seven Generations (El Dorado).
White pepper and vanilla bean aromas give
this richly textured, concentrated and subtly fruity
wine a spicy start. It has a bright yellow-gold color
and has gained complexity through extended aging
before release. Savory consomée and dried herb
characteristics accent its substantial core of apple
butter flavor. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 13.6% Price: $26
92 Starmont 2016 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Carne-
ros). Sourced from the Stanly Ranch Vine-
yard, among other sites, this 100% varietal wine
is light pink-orange in hue, and citrus-driven in
flavor. Cherry and strawberry notes complement
the lemon and grapefruit, delivering a refreshingly
lengthy zip of acidity. —V.B.
abv: 12% Price: $19
92 Work 2013 Lamya’s Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). From a site in Calistoga, this
wine delivers juicy tobacco, char and black fruit fla-
vors, with a concentrated structure and new French
and American oak. Savory leather and black pepper
notes close out the long finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.7% Price: $90
91 1850 2015 Viognier (Calaveras County). This
wine pairs toasty, buttery, fresh bread aromas
with ripe fig, cream and almond flavors. It’s medium
to full bodied, rich and viscous, keeping the luxuri-
ous flavors flowing over the palate and the toasted
bread and almond notes echoing on the finish. —J.G.
abv: 13.8% Price: $24
91 Angove 2014 Warboys Vineyard Shiraz-
Grenache (McLaren Vale). Recently, Angove’s
various Warboys Vineyard bottlings have been con-
sistently excellent; the 2014 blends 57% Shiraz and
43% Grenache to good effect. It’s full bodied, creamy
and supple, combining vanilla notes with hints of
mint and an ample dose of cherry-berry fruit. Drink
now through 2022. Trinchero Family Estates. —J.C.
abv: 14% Price: $75
91 Balletto 2016 Estate Grown Estate Bottled
Gewürztraminer (Russian River Valley). Bal-
letto is making some fun, brightly crafted whites,
like this floral, waxy one, that are not to be ignored
amongst all its other estate offerings. Honey and
white flower scents punctuate the nose before light,
bright layers of lychee and orange flavors come
through on the palate. —V.B.
abv: 13.7% Price: $18
91 Balletto 2016 Estate Grown Estate Bottled
Pinot Gris (Russian River Valley). High-toned
citrus is kept fresh and alive by this wine’s core
of stony minerality. It’s further buoyed by floral
undertones and an overall sense of lightness. —V.B.
abv: 13.7% Price: $18
91 Balletto 2016 Estate Grown Estate Bottled
Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). Lus-
cious pear, vanilla and stony, preserved lemon fla-
vors permeate the palate of this crisp, light-bodied
white. Though delicate and elegant, it has a subtle
texture and plenty of length to the wet stone- and
lemongrass-inflected finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.4% Price: $19
WINEMAG.COM | 93
BUYINGGUIDE

91 Bouchaine 2016 Vin Gris of Pinot Noir (Carne-

ros). This blends 70% whole cluster-pressed
juice with 30% saignée, vinified entirely in stain-
less steel. Fresh flower, cherry, strawberry and tan-
gerine flavors wash brilliantly over the palate, lifted
by acidity and just enough weight to feel lush. —V.B.
abv: 13.4% Price: $24
91 Don Tony Perez 2011 Limited Edition Red Wine
(Curicó Valley). A woody jammy nose is lush
and borders on raisiny. Stout, saturated and thick
91 Lawer 2016 Estate Vineyard Rosé of Syrah
(Knights Valley). Perfumed and floral, crisp
and modulated in acidity, this is an exuberant
on the palate, this Cabernet blend from Curicó expression of the variety. Ample acidiy and cherry
deals a broad swipe of giant blackberry, cassis and and orange flavors unfold on the palate, followed by
raisin flavors. A chunky finish with rubbery tannins a brisk finish that’s laced in spicy nuance. —V.B.
is tasty and lush, but a bit over the top. Don Tony abv: 13.4% Price: $24
Perez Corp. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $40

91 Cottonwood Canyon 2008 Michelle’s Hillside

Signature Estate Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Val-
ley). Norman Beko saves library wines for his fans
to enjoy, and this bottling, which shows its age yet
remains interesting, is one great example. Kirsch,
leather, charred wood and cola aromas lead to a
palate laced with hibiscus, cherry paste, hoisin and
earthy spice. It is nearly past its prime, so drink up.
Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 15.6% Price: $48
91 Flora Springs 2013 Ghost Winery (Napa Val-
ley). This blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon,
20% Merlot, 17% Syrah, 8% Petit Verdot and
3% Cabernet Franc offers plummy chocolate and
leather notes and dense, layered tannins. Toasty oak
adds to the concentration and body, before a lift of
acidity closes out the finish. This wine is available
in three Halloween-themed labels all created for
Flora Springs by CD-cover artist Wes Freed. —V.B.
abv: 14.2% Price: $44
91 Lucas & Lewellen 2013 Estate Vineyards Clone
6 Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Ynez Valley).
From a three-acre block of the Valley View Vineyard
just east of Solvang, this clonal selection shows
cedar, black olive, black pepper and elderberry fruit
on the tightly wound nose. Tart but ripe boysen-
berry fruit shows on the palate, spiced with pepper-
corn, more cedar and a slate-like minerality. Sticky
tannins carry those flavors into the finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $78

91 Dobbes Family Estate 2014 Grand Assemblage

Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). An outstand-
ing value, the latest release of this wine dazzles with
bold, black cherry and chocolate mocha flavors. The
focus and definition throughout are exceptional
also. This is a gem at a more than fair tariff. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.6% Price: $28
91 Klinker Brick 2014 Marisa Vineyard Old Vine
Zinfandel (Lodi). There’s no denying the
concentration of this full-bodied, lavishly textured
91 Luna 2015 Reserve Estate Pinot Grigio (Napa
Valley). Lush texture meets crisp acidity in
this full-figured exploration of ripe peach and pear.
wine. It pulses with ripe blackberry and boysen- Nutty and quietly floral, it ends in a voluptuous fin-
berry from the aroma through the flavors and into ish of smoky spice. —V.B.
the lingering finish. Delicious new American oak abv: 14.4% Price: $32
flavors lend complexity without overwhelming the
taste of the grapes. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 15.8% Price: $30

94 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

91 Lynmar 2016 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). Dark pink in color, this wine
is marked by a nutty layering of light acidity and
orange, Gravenstein apple and cherry flavors. It’s
delicate yet has enough stuffing and structure to
pair with a wide array of dishes. —V.B.
abv: 14.1% Price: $25
91 Matsu 2013 El Recio (Toro). This firm, tan-
nic wine’s plum and black cherry aromas are
matched by oaky maple and spice scents. Toasty,
spicy black fruit and mocha flavors finish with a
wave of toast, chocolate and spice. This is more
bullish than elegant; drink through 2021. Askari
O.H. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $30
91 Michael David 2015 Ancient Vine Cinsault
(Lodi). This almost delicate wine has won-
derful light cherry and floral aromas, pure and vivid
raspberry and red cherry flavors and a texture as
smooth as silk. A rarity made from old vines, its
medium body balances nicely with ample acidity,
mild tannins and a lingering finish. Editors’ Choice.
—J.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $25
91 Museum 2011 Reserva (Cigales). This Tem-
pranillo from little-known Cigales opens
with potent crushed brick, spice, toasty oak and
berry aromas. The palate has a juicy, fresh outlook
and no excess weight or overextraction. Its plum,
berry, spice and vanilla flavors finish with a note of
mature, sweet tobacco. Drink through 2020. Caro-
lina Wine Brands USA. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $20
91 Rodney Strong 2016 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Rus-
sian River Valley). This fine new offering is
whimsically packaged with a screw cap and a floral
label. That spirit is further evidenced by the wine’s
pretty pink color and subdued, light building of fla-
vor, highlighted by orange, peach and strawberry
notes and a substantial bite of mouthwatering acid-
ity. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 12.5% Price: $25
91 Rodney Strong 2014 Estate Vineyards Knotty
Vines Zinfandel (Northern Sonoma). Sourced
from several appellations, including the producer’s
heritage Russian River Valley site, this wine offers
smoky oak, bacon and blackberry jam flavors. Thick
and florally perfumed, it balances its brawnier side
with spice. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $25
91 Sierra Cantabria 2012 Crianza Red Wine
(Rioja). Earthy plum and berry aromas pre-
cede a racy, high-acid palate that’s fresh and sharp.
Snappy red plum and wild berry flavors finish tan-
nic, with oak spice and mild chocolate notes. This
is a power-packed wine that will last a long time;
drink through 2028. Fine Estates From Spain.
—M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $19
91 Starmont 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val-
ley). Fermented in a combination of neutral
French oak and stainless steel and blended with 2%
Sémillon, this lively white sizzles with lemony acid-
ity and a strong streak of grapefruit and lemongrass
flavor. With its high acidity and crispness, it has
length and zip. —V.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $19
91 Vinum 2015 Chenin Blanc (Clarksburg). This
exciting, refreshing, superbly balanced wine
has crisp green apple aromas and lively, almost
electric lemon, lime and cucumber flavors. It’s a
great choice for lunch or with an appeitizer course,
since it’s sure to get the conversation—as well as the
appetite—going. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $14
WINEMAG.COM | 95
BUYINGGUIDE
90 Angove 2014 Family Crest Grenache-Shiraz-
Mourvèdre (McLaren Vale). The blend is
55% Grenache, 25% Shiraz and 20% Mourvèdre,
but while this is a full-bodied wine, it’s not over-
done or bombastic. The masses of dark fruit are
reined in by crisp acids and a layer of supple tan-
nins, adding depth to the cassis, vanilla and mint
flavors. Drink now through 2020. Trinchero Family
Estates. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $21
90 Beringer 2014 Beringer Estates Selection
Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Valley). But-
tery vanilla, cherry and plum notes give this wine
a plush backdrop of fruit and rich, round texture.
With small percentages of Cabernet Franc, Merlot
and Petit Verdot, it reveals additional cedar and
graphite components before unleashing a lasting
chocolate flavor on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.3% Price: $36
90 Black Stallion 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Spicy, with clove and juicy
black-cherry flavors, this approachable, densely
packed wine is full of fruit and integrated power, yet
surprisingly balanced. Soft chocolate and tobacco
notes accent the fruit as a long finish wraps up the
experience. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $30
96 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
90 Castelvecchio 2015 Pinot Grigio (Carso).
One of Friuli Venezia Giulia’s little known
denominations, the Carso growing zone, with its
rocky soil, is turning out some fine whites like this
elegant Pinot Grigio. Round, creamy but also loaded
with finesse, it delivers aromas and flavors of ripe
pear, creamy apple and juicy lemon while a stony
mineral note graces the finish. Wine Twist. —K.O.
abv: 13% Price: $20
90 Castelvecchio 2015 Sauvignon (Carso).
Grapefruit, crushed tomato vine, exotic
fruit and aromatic herb are some of the aromas
you’ll find on this fragrant white. The elegant
medium-bodied palate delivers green melon, citrus
and white peach alongside a vibrant saline note that
energizes the finish. Wine Twist. —K.O.
abv: 13% Price: $20
90 Chacewater 2014 Made With Organically
Grown Grapes Zinfandel (Sierra Foothills).
A good example of the late-harvest approach, this
indulgent wine has strawberry syrup aromas,
crushed raspberry and blackberry flavors, great
concentration and a high level of ripeness. Drink it
in lieu of dessert. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 15.5% Price: $22
90 Chacewater 2013 Malbec (Red Hills Lake
County). Dark color and black fruit aro-
mas set the expectation for a big wine, but this is
remarkably well-balanced, poised and smooth. Its
black cherry and blackberry flavors are satifying,
dry and not overripe, and its hints of cocoa add deli-
cious complexity. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $25
90 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2015 Canoe Ridge
Estate Chardonnay (Horse Heaven Hills).
Canoe Ridge Vineyard is the warmer of the winery’s
two single-vineyard Chardonnay sites. Straw, spice
and stone-fruit aromas lead to a full-bodied palate,
loaded with ripe peach and tropical-fruit flavors.
It provides lots of appeal along with exquisite bal-
ance. —S.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $20
90 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2015 Cold Creek Vine-
yard Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Despite
coming from the warmest vintages on record for
the state, this wine displays a very pleasing sense
of restraint. Aromas of straw, clarified butter and
peach are followed by well-balanced, textured
fruit flavors. An elegant styling only heightens the
appeal. —S.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $22
90 Clos du Val 2015 Gran Val Vineyard Estate
Pinot Noir (Carneros). Made in a full-bodied
and fleshy style, this comes from an estate vineyard
long owned by the producer. Cloudy, with a distinct
fresh cherry aroma, it opens with leathery tannins
and pronounced oak notes before its bright, citrus-
like acidity settles in. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $60
90 Cottonwood Canyon 2006 Synergy Classic
Red Wine (Paso Robles). This blend of Cab-
ernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot with a bit
of Norman Beko’s estate Syrah shows concentrated
blueberry, tobacco, dried dill, leather and sweet
cedar aromas on the nose, in accordance with its
age. There are elegant purple flower, caramelized
fruit and mocha spice flavors on the palate, which is
holding up well but should be enjoyed now. —M.K.
abv: 13.74% Price: $68
90 Domaine G. Metz 2016 Melody Pinot Gris
(Alsace). Fresh notes of ripe red apple and
juicy pear rise from the glass and also swish freely
across the palate. The body is slender, pervaded
by a friendly invigorating zestiness that stays right
through the dry finish. Chemin Des Vins. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $20
90 Domaine G. Metz 2015 Vieilles Vignes
Gewurztraminer (Alsace). The nose is a
subdued but evocative blend of rose petal, peach,
lemon and mirabelle. The palate shows a similarly
easy interplay of flavors on a concentrated, har-
monious and off-dry body. This is fresh and fruity,
lively and enticing. Chemin Des Vins. —A.K.
abv: NA Price: $25
90 Gustave Lorentz 2015 Réserve Riesling
(Alsace). Hints of savory earth mingle with
fresh apple notes. The palate has the bright mel-
low freshness of ripe oranges and the juiciness of
ripe pear. A core of bright lemon acidity makes for
a clean, bright and refreshing finish. Quintessential
Wines. —A.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $23
90 Iron Horse 2014 North Block Pinot Noir
(Green Valley). From a replanted block of
the vineyard, this wine is zesty, savory and high in
acidity. With a backbone of stony texture and a deep
core of licorice and strawberry flavors, it’s bold in
tannins and intensity, yet finishes bright. —V.B.
abv: 14.4% Price: $85
90 Iron Horse 2014 Winery Block Pinot Noir
(Green Valley). This complex, tightly wound
effort from a four-acre block planted to a single
clone tastes of luxurious caramel and toasted oak,
its flavors superimposed over a backdrop of forest-
like scents. —V.B.
abv: 14.4% Price: $85
90 Klinker Brick 2014 Farráh Syrah (Lodi).
Charred oak aromas and flavors are para-
mount in this assertive, bold and tannic wine. By
themselves the smoky, peppery aspects would make
for a one-dimensional wine, but this one adds sub-
stantive, rich, blackberry-like fruit flavors under-
neath. The firm tannins call for pairing with a rib-
eye steak or barbecue. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.9% Price: $20
90 Klinker Brick 2014 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi).
This wine is rich, ripe, concentrated and
almost sweet. It’s wonderful to smell the raspberry
syrup aromas, taste the blueberry and blackberry
flavors and feel the creaminess of the texture coat-
ing the palate. Low in tannins but high in viscosity,
it’s a pleasure to sip. —J.G.
abv: 15.4% Price: $19
WINEMAG.COM | 97
BUYINGGUIDE
90 Louis M. Martini 2013 Monte Rosso Vine-
yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Val-
ley). Tightly woven and deeply concentrated, this
brawny, full-bodied wine from the mighty mountain
site boasts expansive tannins. Firm acidity invigo-
rates its spectrum of flavors that range from cherry,
marshmallow and clove to forest and tobacco. —V.B.
abv: 15.5% Price: $90
90 Martin Ray 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian
River Valley). This succulent, lively wine
shows spritzy acidity and tart lemon and floral hon-
eysuckle accents before deeper, richer melon, pine-
apple and vanilla bean flavors emerge. —V.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $20
90 Masthead 2014 Mohr-Fry Ranch Block 433
Sangiovese (Lodi). This wine has more
depth, volume and textural roundness than most of
its peers in California, seasoning its ripe fruit fla-
vors with the herb, leather and sage accents char-
acteristic of the variety. It has good balance, com-
plexity and a lingering finish that begs for another
sip. —J.G.
abv: 14.3% Price: $30
98 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
90 Materra Cunat Family Vineyards 2016 Sauvi-
gnon Blanc (Oak Knoll District). This creamy
and viscous white from one of the valley’s cooler
appellations is kept fresh and lively by moderate
acidity. Its fruit is of the lush peach and nectarine
variety, laced with vanilla. —V.B.
abv: 14.2% Price: $25
90 Materra Cunat Family Vineyards 2016 Viog-
nier (Oak Knoll District). Light in color with
beautiful aromas, this wine offers green apple,
squeezed citrus, creamy peach and vanilla notes.
Moderate acidity complements its voluptuous tex-
ture and length. —V.B.
abv: 14.4% Price: $32
90 Materra Cunat Family Vineyards 2015 Estate
Grown Chardonnay (Oak Knoll District). This
robust, richly layered wine shows lemon chiffon and
vanilla characteristics balanced by golden apple and
pear undertones. —V.B.
abv: 14.2% Price: $27
90 Merryvale 2014 Merlot (Napa Valley). This
100% varietal wine from Truchard Vine-
yard is dark and inky, made in big, bold style. Cedar,
pine and tart black-currant notes provide one side
of its personality, as more richly concentrated choc-
olate and blackberry flavors give it oomph. —V.B.
abv: 14.9% Price: $48
90 Pierre Sparr 2015 Grande Réserve Riesling
(Alsace). The ripeness of mirabelle plums
and the satisfying tartness of ripe Cox apples are met
on nose and palate by wonderfully fresh lemon notes.
The citrus zestiness works it way through the slender
dry body all the way to the lip-smacking, fresh and
even brisk finish. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —A.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $17
90 Reata 2015 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast).
This wine delivers a full-figured spectrum
of flavor and texture, including apple, pear and
honeyed caramel notes. Supportive oak plays nicely
in the background as the finish winds down softly.
Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $20
90 Rombauer 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). Blended with small amounts of
Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, this
approachable, accessible and well-made wine is
juicy with black fruit and smoky with integrated oak
and tannin. Its powerful flavor and robust body ease
up on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $55
90 Santa Rita 2013 Reserva Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Maipo Valley). Woodsy black-fruit
aromas include hints of cool cola, green leaf and
licorice root. A sinewy palate is broad but a touch
clumsy. Flavors of herbal spice and chocolate are
equaled by plum and tomato sauce notes, while
this has a lot of kick on a ripping, long finish. Drink
through 2021. Palm Bay International. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $20
90 Schug 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma
Coast). From three cool-climate sites
within the appellation, this is a floral, fruity wine
with a zesty underbelly of acidity. Lemongrass,
lemon peel and grapefruit flavors are the main
event. —V.B.
abv: 14.1% Price: $20
90 Skinner 2015 Smithereens White Blend (El
Dorado). Bosc pear, tart apple and vanilla
bean elements make this a fascinating dry wine.
Although the aromas are inviting, the first sip tastes
austere. But as it opens, the palate and gains more
concentration and complexity, proving sophisti-
cated, layered and nuanced. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 13.3% Price: $20
90 Starmont 2014 Merlot (Carneros). This
100% varietal wine delivers blackberry and
black cherry fruit and richer, bolder coffee and meat
flavors. Powerful and high-toned, it also shows
chocolate and leather notes within a firm yet light
structure. —V.B.
abv: 13.8% Price: $27
90 Tenuta Roveglia 2016 Limne (Lugana).
Fragrant and refreshing, this savory white
opens with delicate scents of white spring flower,
orchard fruit and a whisper of crushed herb. The
tangy palate delivers white peach, yellow pear and a
hint of nectarine that linger on the crisp finish. John
Given Wines. —K.O.
abv: 13% Price: $18
90 Uptick Vineyards 2011 Estate Syrah (Russian
River Valley). Forest, cola and grilled mush-
room flavors punctuate the experience of this light-
bodied wine that’s subdued in structure and soft on
the palate. Blueberry and white pepper notes close
out the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.1% Price: $38
90 Williams Selyem 2015 Olivet Lane Vineyard
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This
lovely, full-bodied white offers generous caramel
apple and baked pear flavors cradled in toasted oak
that brings nutmeg and vanilla aspects. The rich
roundness finds refreshment on the finish in stony
acidity. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $65
89 Andis 2015 Semillon (Amador County).
Earthy, chalky aromas and dry, savory fla-
vors take the lead in this engaging, light-bodied
wine, while any fruitiness is quite subtle. It’s inter-
esting and unusual in style, yet should pair nicely
with appetizers and seafood due to its bracing acid-
ity. —J.G.
abv: 12.5% Price: $20
WINEMAG.COM | 99
BUYINGGUIDE
89 August Kesseler 2015 R Riesling Kabinett
(Pfalz). Crisp, cutting pineapple and lemon
acidity lends raciness this otherwise sunny kabinett
full of sweet honeydew, apricot and peach flavors.
It’s a sprightly, briskly balanced wine with an easy-
drinking, approachable feel. Drink now through
2020 to enjoy its freshness. Vineyard Brands. —A.I.
abv: 10% Price: $18
89 Lucien Albrecht 2016 Cuvée Romanus Pinot
Gris (Alsace). The nose is tender, with pri-
mary, juicy pear fruit. The palate comes in with
fruity rounded ripeness, helped along by a little
residual sweetness. While the palate remains slen-
der, the flavors are rounded and fresh, driven by
friendly, appetizing pear fruit. Foley Family Wines.
—A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $18
89 Lucien Albrecht 2016 Réserve Riesling
(Alsace). Notes of freshly cut lemon on
the nose turn into fully fledged, almost fizzy lemon
freshness on the palate. This is fruit-driven, easy
but ever so refreshing. With its fizzing lightness,
this almost is like a lemon spritzer. Utterly refresh-
ing and dry. Foley Family Wines. —A.K.
abv: 12% Price: $15
100 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
89 Paul Dolan 2015 Zinfandel (Mendocino
County). Raspberry and blackberry aromas
and ultraripe, opulent, jammy flavors fill the big,
soft frame of this full-bodied wine. It has fruit in
spades, milk chocolate and raspberry notes that lin-
ger on the finish, relatively light tannins and a touch
of richness. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 15% Price: $15
89 Sola 2013 Meritage (California). Fruity,
savory and lightly oaky flavors are sup-
ported by moderate tannins in this medium-bodied
and well-balanced blend of Merlot and Cabernet
Sauvignon. Mint, cedar and thyme aromas give way
to red cherry, raspberry and sage flavors on the pal-
ate, and the mouthfeel strikes a balance between
suppleness and a light tannic bite. Editors’ Choice.
—J.G.
abv: 13.9% Price: $15
88 Lucien Albrecht 2016 Réserve Gewurztra-
miner (Alsace). A earthy element creeps
into the peach notes on the nose. The medium-sweet
palate comes in with refreshing phenolic zestiness.
The flavors are full and bright, with just a hint of
spice. Drink soon. Foley Family Wines. —A.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $18
87 Kirkland Signature 2014 Meritage (Ruther-
ford). Made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Mer-
lot, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc, this
friendly bottling offers perfumed oak and simple red
fruit. Moderate in structure and body, with healthy
fruit ripeness, it finishes with a cedar note. —V.B.
abv: 14.9% Price: $14
BEST BUYS
90 Casa da Passarella 2016 Branco (Dão). With
creamy Encruzado and perfumed Malvasia
in the blend, this is a deliciously full-bodied wine.
There is a smoky character as well as a creamy
texture. The wine is young and fruity but ready
to drink, although it will be better from 2018. M
Imports, LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $15
90 Casa da Passarella 2014 Tinto (Dão). This is
a richly structured wine. With its juicy red
fruits and generous structure, it is delicious now.
Berry flavors and acidity go with the mineral edge of
the texture to create a wine that is packed with acid-
ity, tannins and fruit. Drink now. M Imports, LLC.
Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $15
 BEST BUYS
90 Château Toutigeac 2016 Bordeaux Blanc.
The fifth generation of the family to make
wine at the estate, Oriane Mazeau has created a del-
icately spicy wine that is lively and fruity. A floral
character gives it a lift, as does crisp acidity. Bright,
with plenty of flavorsome fruitiness, the wine is
already a pleasure to drink. Chemin Des Vins. Best
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $15
90 DFJ Vinhos 2016 Grand’Arte Alvarinho (Lis-
boa). This is a southern and warmer take
on Alvarinho than is found in northern Portugal. It
brings out the ripe perfumed character of the grape.
Apricot and golden plums show both the fruit and
the generous texture. Drink this wine starting from
late 2017. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $13
90 Heinrich Vollmer 2014 V Riesling (Pfalz).
Hints of earth and pollen lend complex-
ity to crisp pineapple and grapefruit flavors in this
wine. A shade off-dry in style, it’s a fleshy, full-bod-
ied Riesling balanced with scintillating acidity and
delicate tangerine sweetness. Drink now through
2020. Mack & Schuhle Inc. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 13% Price: $15
BEST BUYS
89 Charles & Charles 2016 Rosé (Columbia Val-
ley). A blend of Syrah (60%), Grenache
(17%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), Mourvèdre
(10%), Cinsault (2%) and Counoise, this wine is
very pale yellow-pink in color. It offers appealing
aromas of orange rind, citrus and strawberry. The
palate is dry and quite tart, loaded with citrus fla-
vors. It brings a lot of enjoyment. Best Buy. —S.S.
abv: 12.3% Price: $12
89 Teso La Monja 2014 Romanico (Toro).
Despite showing reduced black plum and
blackberry aromas, this displays grippy tannins
and tension on the palate. Its blackberry and boy-
senberry flavors are lush, and the oak is mild and
integrated on the finish. Fine Estates From Spain.
Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 2014% Price: $14
88 Barton & Guestier 2016 Passeport Bordeaux
Blanc by Laurent Prada Sauvignon Blanc-
Sémillon (Bordeaux Blanc). Lightly perfumed, this
soft, ripe wine has attractive acidity that is balanced
by ripe yellow- and white-stone fruits. The acidity
at the end is just right. Drink now. Barton & Gues-
tier USA. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $10
BEST BUYS
88 Stemmari 2016 Estate Grown Grillo (Sicilia).
Heady aromas suggesting tropical fruit,
honeysuckle and citrus zest lead the nose. Bright
and refreshing, the lively palate offers mature white
stone fruit, tangerine peel and a pleasantly bitter-
almond note. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Best Buy.
—K.O.
abv: 13% Price: $10
87 Ironstone 2015 Chenin Blanc (California).
Apple skin and white peach flavors and a
smooth, rather rich mouthfeel lend quite a bit of
personality to this unusually low-alcohol wine. It
tastes a touch sweet, or at least quite ripe, but is
balanced by tangy acidity. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 11% Price: $12
86 Fetzer NV Anthony’s Hill Dark Bold Red
(California). Not quite as bold as its name
suggests, this wine is well-balanced and fun to sip.
Fruity and medium-bodied, it smells like raspber-
ries and rhubarb, tastes like red cherries and feels
nicely full on the palate, bolstered by a hearty dose
of fine tannins. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.2% Price: $12/1.5 L
WINEMAG.COM | 101
BUYINGGUIDE
93 Gundlach Bundschu 2015 Chardonnay
(Sonoma Coast). Gravelly texture supports
rich yet balanced baked apple and anise flavors in this
hugely appealing wine from old vines in one of the
producer’s estate vineyards. As it opens, more floral
components come to life, recalling jasmine and apple
blossom, feeling high-toned and refreshing. —V.B.
abv: 14.2% Price: $27
93 Morgan 2015 Double L Vineyard Chardonnay
(Santa Lucia Highlands). For full review see
page 90. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.2% Price: $42
93 Sea Smoke 2014 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita
Hills). A concentrated white peach element
plays strongly on the nose of this coveted bottling,
with touches of sea salt and a sharp tangerine-like
edge. Ripe peach and cherimoya flavors show on the
palate, but a crescendoing citrus-driven acidity cuts
through the richness and allows more savory com-
ponents like salt and smoked nut to blossom on the
finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $60
92 Au Contraire 2014 Mighty Mouse Reserve
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full
review see page 91.
abv: 14.2% Price: $45
92 Foley 2014 Bar Lazy S Ranch Chardonnay
(Sta. Rita Hills). The nose on this bottling
invites with rounded butterscotch, lemon, man-
darin orange and cinnamon aromas. It shows deft
restraint on the palate due to a slice of vibrant acid-
ity that carries poached pear and almond-topped
apple pastry flavors deep into the finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.3% Price: $45
92 Rodney Strong 2015 Estate Vineyards Char-
donnay (Sonoma Coast). For full review see
page 92. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.5% Price: $25
91 Brick & Mortar 2015 Fort Ross Vineyard Char-
donnay (Fort Ross-Seaview). Bright tanger-
ine and wet stone notes kick off the palate in this
light-bodied Chardonnay. As it opens, those notes
develop into more defined lemon and tart green
apple flavors. It’s nice, vibrant and ready for salty
food. —V.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $55
91 Brick & Mortar 2015 Sweetwater Springs
Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley).
As salty as preserved lemon brine, this wine is
medium-bodied, with integrated oak, having aged
in 33% new French barrels. Golden delicious apple
and a spicy bite of quince round out the subtle fruit
flavors, bolstered by gravelly texture. —V.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $45
91 D.R. Stephens 2015 Star Vineyard Estate Char-
donnay (Rutherford). Despite this wine’s
spice and gravelly mouthfeel of stony texture, it’s
102 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
rich, round and voluptuous, its flavors recalling
crème brûlée and caramel. —V.B.
abv: 14.1% Price: $60
90 Kendall-Jackson 2015 Grand Reserve Char-
donnay (Monterey-Santa Barbara). The
Jackson family has mastered making Chardonnay in
large quantities at fair price points, and this bottling
91 Fess Parker 2015 Parker West Chardonnay
(Sta. Rita Hills). Toasty aromas lead the
nose of this bottling from the Parker family’s own
fits that theme perfectly. Soft white peach, sea salt,
brown butter and guava aromas lead into a palate
that’s tightly wound with apricot, pan-seared apple
vineyard, with brioche, freshly peeled lemon and and salty smoke flavors. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
a slight walnut touch. The palate shows restraint, abv: 14.5% Price: $22
just barely allowing its crushed chalk, Asian pear,
exotic white flower and chamomile flavors to shine
through. —M.K. 90 Kunde 2015 CS Ridge Vineyard Estate Grown
Chardonnay (Sonoma Valley). Buttery
abv: 14.1% Price: $40 peach crumble and vanilla bean flavors are balanced
by floral aromas and a rounded, likable character in
91 Foley 2014 Barrel Select Chardonnay (Sta.
Rita Hills). Plump Asian pear and sea salt aro-
mas accompany lighter hints of butterscortch and
this bold, full-bodied white. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $30
marshmallow in this barrel blend from William Fol-
ey’s estate in the heart of the Sta. Rita Hills. There
is a textural pull to the palate, while Gala apple, sea
90 Kunde 2015 Wildwood Vineyard Chardon-
nay (Sonoma Valley). Dark gold in color,
this estate-grown wine blends bright, crisp orange,
salt and marzipan flavors provide richness. —M.K. melon and caramel apple flavors with richer toasted
abv: 14.3% Price: $50 oak and vanilla notes. —V.B.
abv: 14.3% Price: $30
91 Foley 2014 T Anchor Ranch Chardonnay (Sta.
Rita Hills). Tight and wound up on the nose,
90 Matanzas Creek 2015 Chardonnay (Sonoma
this bottling shows lime blossom and tangerine skin
aromas with laser-sharp focus. Tangerine, sea salt
and lime flavors show on the palate, where flinty
County). Caramel apple meets high-toned
acidity in this balanced, medium-bodied white that’s
brightened with salty lemon accents. It finishes long,
minerality accents all that lush citrus. —M.K. with nuanced nutmeg and vanilla notes. —V.B.
abv: 14.1% Price: $45 abv: 14% Price: $26
91 Lincourt 2014 Zoula Nunn Chardonnay (Sta.
Rita Hills). This bottling named after vint- 90 Materra Cunat Family Vineyards 2015 Estate
Grown Chardonnay (Oak Knoll District). For
ner Bill Foley’s mother shows apricot, gardenia and full review see page 98.
smoke aromas, accenting its underlying minerality abv: 14.2% Price: $27
that recalls hot sand on a beach. The clean and crisp
flavors combine sea salt and lemon peel with Asian
pear and a touch of honeydew melon. —M.K.
abv: 14.3% Price: $35
90 Pali 2015 Charm Acres Chardonnay (Sonoma
County). This value-oriented white deliv-
ers nuanced flavor and body, mixing honeyed apple,
91 Rodney Strong 2014 Reserve Chardonnay
(Russian River Valley). Enveloped in toasted
pear and toasted oak flavors with crisp acidity on
the midpalate. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 14% Price: $22
oak aromas, this reserve-tier wine tingles with acid-
ity and refreshing, high-toned fruit. As it opens, it
delves into richer baked apple and pear flavors while
preserving a lemony citrus undertone. It finishes lay-
90 Reata 2015 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast).
For full review see page 98. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5% Price: $20
ered and round, with a lingering nutmeg note. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $35
90 Saintsbury 2015 Sangiacomo Green Acres
Dijon Clone 809 Chardonnay (Carneros).
90 Dutton-Goldfield 2015 Dutton Ranch Char-
donnay (Russian River Valley). This wine
comes from grapes grown in Green Valley’s Mill
Golden hay in color, this clonal exploration imparts
light-bodied peach, graham cracker and orange fla-
vors, the latter showing prominently on the nose.
Station, Sullivan, Walker Hill and Rued vineyards. Bright acidity keeps it youthfully refreshing, with
High-toned to the last drop, it shows Gravenstein
apple and Meyer lemon flourishes, with a subtle
backbone of oak. —V.B.
both body and weight in balance. —V.B.
abv: 13.8% Price: $48
abv: 13.5% Price: $38
90 Sleeping Giant 2014 Buena Tierra Vineyard
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). With its
90 FEL 2015 Chardonnay (Anderson Valley).
Freshness and lively acidity balance out the
ripe apple and pear flavors in this medium-bodied,
inviting apple blossom aromas, this wine is fleshy
and bright, showing balance and complexity from
start to lengthy finish. Lemongrass, nutmeg and
well-rounded wine from Mendocino County’s cool, wild vanilla flavors tease in the background. —V.B.
coastal Anderson Valley. It’s a breath of fresh air com-
pared to many overly sweet, buttery oak bombs. —J.G.
abv: 13.8% Price: $32
abv: 14.4% Price: $45
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90 Sleeping Giant 2014 Las Amigas Partners

Vineyard Chardonnay (Carneros). Tropical
vanilla and pineapple notes provide this full-bodied
jicama and kiwi flavors make this dry, unoaked wine
a delight to drink. It has vivid acidity, light body and
a fresh, lingerirg finish. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
VIOGNIER
wine with voluptuous fruit and texture. That ripe-
ness finds its equilibrium on the midpalate, settling
abv: 13% Price: $20
93 Joseph Swan Vineyards 2015 Catie’s Corner
Viognier (Russian River Valley). Creamy yet
down into lemon peel and quince highlights that
finish bright. —V.B.
abv: 14.3% Price: $45
90 Saint K 2016 Luna Matta Vineyard Grenache
Blanc (Paso Robles). This bottling offers
key lime, golden apple, preserved lemon and hon-
not overly viscous, this wine finds a nice balance
between fruit and juicy acidity, showing off well-
crafted apricot, green apple and nut notes. Light
eysuckle touches on the nose, proving quite delicate bodied and totally fresh, it gains layers of citrus as

90 Treana 2015 Chardonnay (Central Coast).

Rich with gooey marshmallow, crème brûlée
and cotton candy aromas, this is an unabashed clas-
despite its yellow, oxidative-seeming color in the
glass. Buoyant acidity kicks off the palate, which is
smooth with candied lemon peel and yellow peach
it evolves in the glass. —V.B.
abv: 13.4% Price: $26

sic California Chardonnay from Austin Hope. Unc-

tuous marzipan and sea salt caramel flavors make
for a creamy mouthfeel, and yet firm acidity leaves
flavors. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $28 92 Ampelos 2016 Ampelos Vineyard Viognier
(Santa Barbara County). Fermented and
aged entirely in stainless steel, this is a subtly flo-
the midpalate feeling clean, allowing butterscotch
tones to linger on the finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $24
89 Acquiesce 2016 Grenache Blanc (Lodi). Flo-
ral aromas and peachy flavors give this dry
wine an exotic, tropical character while not being
ral wine that flirts with apple blossom and jasmine
scents on the nose. On the palate, expect creamy
apricot, orange, lime and vanilla cookie flavors in a
too overt about it. Medium body and tangy acid- complex and layered way. —V.B.

90 Williams Selyem 2015 Olivet Lane Vineyard

Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full
ity help bring a pleasant balance and an appetizing,
mouthwatering texture. It’s one of several nice light-
abv: 13.9% Price: $25

review see page 99.

abv: 14.5% Price: $65
bodied whites from winemaker Sue Tipton. —J.G.
abv: 13% Price: $25 92 Miraflores 2015 Estate Viognier (El Dorado).
Rich in texture and full of flavor, this is a
generous, mouth-filling wine that layers subtle spice

89 Chalone 2014 Estate Grown Chardonnay

(Chalone). Ripe white peach and sharp lime
peel qualities interplay on the nose of this bottling
from the iconic vineyard, which is now under the
quality-focused ownership of the Foley family. That
lime zest comes through on the palate too, cutting
through the creamy midpalate and adding a pin-
point edge to the finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $30
89 Cellars 33 2016 Clay Station Vineyard Gre-
nache Blanc (Borden Ranch). This tasty, bal-
anced wine is leaner than some of its peers. Green
apple and white peach aromas lead to apple and
light citrus flavors. The crisp acidity lines up nicely,
making it a versatile partner for food. —J.G.
abv: 13.7% Price: $24
89 Skinner 2015 Grenache Blanc (El Dorado).
Rich in texture but lean in fruit flavor, this
and fruit and seems to melt on the palate. Matured
for 12 months on the lees, it’s concentrated, creamy
and complex, from its fresh-baked bread and nut-
meg aromas to its lemon cream flavors to its linger-
ing, vanilla-laced finish. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.2% Price: $24
91 1850 2015 Viognier (Calaveras County). For
full review see page 93.
abv: 13.8% Price: $24

89 Chamisal Vineyards 2014 Chardonnay (Edna

Valley). Jasmine, honeysuckle and gardenia
aromas show on the nose of this bottling, which also
offers peach custard and ripe grapefruit skin scents.
The palate is welcoming and very familiar, with but-
ter, sea salt, lemon and ambrosia melon flavors, all
framed by solid acidity. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $28
medium-bodied wine relies on a buttery aroma and
flavor to carry its weight while light apple cider and
crisp melon notes add interest. The mouthfeel is
nicely viscous, which contributes to a lingering fin-
ish. —J.G.
abv: 13.2% Price: $24
88 C R Graybehl 2015 Mounts Family Vineyard
Grenache Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). Waxy in
91 Anaba 2015 Landa Vineyard Viognier (Sonoma
Valley). Nutty almond aromas open this wine,
along with a wave of white flower and herb scents.
Light in color, it’s exuberant with crisp acidity and
delicate apricot and peach flavors, finishing clean
and focused. —V.B.
abv: 14.2% Price: $36

89 Saracina 2016 Unoaked Chardonnay (Men-

docino County). Striking a great balance
between refreshing fruitiness, weight and body, this
mouthfeel and dark gold in color, this wine offers
simple fresh lemon and green apple flavors, its fin-
ish expansive and full. —V.B.
90
page 98.
Materra Cunat Family Vineyards 2016 Viog-
nier (Oak Knoll District). For full review see

dry wine has appley, lightly herbal aromas, crisp abv: 13.2% Price: $24 abv: 14.4% Price: $32
lemon and apple flavors, bright acidity and a tingly,
lingering finish. —J.G.
abv: 13.2% Price: $20 88 Koehler 2016 Grenache Blanc (Santa Ynez
Valley). Light in color, this is a very aro-
matic take on the grape, with powerful jasmine, plu-
90 Tessier Winery 2016 Catie’s Corner Viognier
(Russian River Valley). This golden hay-col-
ored wine opens in a complex floral arrangement of

89 Sweetzer Cellars 2014 Presqu’ile Vineyard

Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Extremely
light and floral, this bottling offers apple blossom,
tangerine, apple butter and cashew notes on the
nose. It’s a straightforward Chardonnay on the
palate, with butter, citrus and marzipan touches
backed by healthy acidity. —M.K.
abv: 14.4% Price: $40
GRENACHE BLANC
meria and guava aromas as well as just-sliced pear
flesh. The palate is also ripe with tropical coconut
and guava touches, cut with fresh and zesty acid-
ity. —M.K.
abv: 14.2% Price: $25
88 Seven Angels 2014 Grenache Blanc (Central
Coast). The nose of this bottling is quite
waxy and shows some oxidative qualitites, with
dried apple and nutty notes adding to the paraffin
element. The flavors are intriguing and unique—
a mix of honey, dried orange peel and dried pear.
honeysuckle and apple blossom before unleashing a
weave of apricot and lychee fruit. The acidity is tart
and high-toned. —V.B.
abv: 13.4% Price: $32
89 Naggiar 2016 Estate Viognier (Sierra Foot-
hills). This well-balanced wine has light flo-
ral, appley aromas, good acidity to drive its mouth-
filling fruit flavors along, and just enough body to
contribute a smooth mouthfeel. Hints of white pepper
and lemon zest give it an attractive savory edge. —J.G.
abv: 13.8% Price: $24

90 Klinker Brick 2016 Grenache Blanc (Lodi).

Leafy, fresh herb aromas and tangy, reserved
Fresh acidity keeps it alive. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $22

104 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

BUYINGGUIDE
89 Record Family Wines 2016 Viognier (Paso
Robles). A great effort for the estate’s inau-
gural white, this expertly restrained Viognier hails
from a region where the grape tends toward over-
ripeness. Crisp apple blossoms, daffodil, white peach
and chalk aromas give way to a mellow palate of pear,
apple, nectarine and jasmine-like flavors. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $20
89 Skinner 2015 Viognier (El Dorado). This
wine’s prominent buttery aromas grab one’s
attention right away, and that same buttery element
runs through the flavors and lingers on the finish. The
fruit components are mild and melon-like, the body
is medium and the texture reveals good acidity. —J.G.
abv: 14.1% Price: $24
88 Holly’s Hill 2016 Estate Viognier (El Dorado).
This unusually lively and vivid wine offers a
nice twist on the variety, offering fresh pineapple,
herb and lemon flavors, dazzling acidity and great
balance despite its relatively high level of alcohol.
Grown on the winery property, it’s another good
example of Holly’s Hill’s emphasis on purity of fla-
vor. —J.G.
abv: 14.7% Price: $22
87 Acquiesce 2015 Viognier (Lodi). A relatively
light-tasting wine from a sometimes heavy
grape variety, this shows a mix of savory and fruit
flavors, including cucumber, celery and white
pepper. It tastes dry and almost austere, which is
appealing in the right pairing, such as with goat
cheese on toast. —J.G.
abv: 14.1% Price: $24
87 Bonterra 2015 Viognier (California). This
light, fruity and refreshing wine is made from
organic grapes and pairs nicely with linguine and
clams or pizza bianca. Although matured in French
oak barrels, it’s more delicate than usual, tasting of
apples, baking spice and fresh lemon. —J.G.
abv: 14.4% Price: $14
87 The White Knight 2015 Viognier (Clarksburg).
Vivid herb and mineral aromas and equally
vibrant citrus and herb flavors give this wine a
bright personality. It has enough body and near-
sweetness to match all that energy and find balance.
Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $12
SAUVIGNON BLANC
94 Rochioli 2016 Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc
(Russian River Valley). This is a beautifully
exotic and delicate wine with steely minerality and
subdued power. Full of lemony flavor, it comple-
mentarily exudes fresh tangerine and grapefruit
peel, enwrapping its nuanced fruit with floral high-
lights. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $35
106 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
92 Aperture 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma
County). For full review see page 90.
abv: 14.1% Price: $35
There’s good energy and grip to the palate, with
tangy Meyer lemon rind flavor and that power-
ful oak smoke that’s uncommon for Central Coast
whites but befits the house style. —M.K.
92 Margerum 2015 D Sauvignon Blanc (Happy
Canyon of Santa Barbara). Extremely light
abv: 14.5% Price: $50
in color, this top-shelf Sauvignon Blanc from
McGinley and Grassini vineyards is compelling on
all fronts. Fresh, lively and suave key lime, sliced
90 Draxton 2016 Nelson Vineyard Sauvignon
Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). Creamy in mouth-
feel and spicy with acidity, this is a well-heeled,
nectarine and wet sidewalk aromas mark the nose.
The palate is tense and nervy, with a grippy texture
and energetic acidity that invigorates its crisp citrus
lightly crafted wine with integrated crispness and
peach and lemon highlights. —V.B.
abv: 13% Price: $18
and river stone flavors. —M.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $36
90 Enkidu 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma
County). Barrel-fermented and aged briefly
92 Stewart Cellars 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). Fermented in stainless steel and
in 20% new French oak, this wine offers a whiff
of barrel reduction before revealing a well-defined
neutral oak, this light-bodied, well-structured
white impresses with pretty citrus blossom scents
and tart, high-toned acidity. Pungent with lemon
profile of lemon and stone fruit. From vineyards in
both Dry Creek and Sonoma valleys, it wears its oak
well, finishing crisp and salty. —V.B.
and lime flavor, it develops bolder melon and pear abv: 14.3% Price: $22
notes as it opens in the glass. —V.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $25
90 Kivelstadt Cellars 2016 The Family Secret
Indian Springs Ranch Sauvignon Blanc
91 Balletto 2016 Estate Grown Estate Bottled
Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). For
full review see page 93.
(Sonoma Valley). High in acidity, restrained and
focused on freshness above all else, this wine shines
with wet stone, Meyer lemon and grapefruit peel
abv: 13.4% Price: $19 flavors. —V.B.
abv: 13.9% Price: $20
91 Grassini 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Happy Can-
yon of Santa Barbara). Fresh and stony on the
nose, this bottling from one of the region’s leading 90 Martin Ray 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian
River Valley). For full review see page 98.
properties shows crisp lime and grapefruit pith aro- abv: 13.5% Price: $20
mas. The palate is edged with tart yellow grapefruit
yet also offers warmer tones of nectarine-like fruit.
Refreshing acidity and chalky grip carry deep into 90 Materra Cunat Family Vineyards 2016 Sau-
vignon Blanc (Oak Knoll District). For full
the finish. —M.K.
abv: 13.2% Price: $28
review see page 98.
abv: 14.2% Price: $25
91 Little Giant 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val-
ley). Stony perfume welcomes one into this
full, fleshy white adorned with peach and green
90 Schug 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma
Coast). For full review see page 99.
abv: 14.1% Price: $20
apple fruit. Succulent on the midpalate, it delivers
flavor and body with balance, finishing on a tart,
lingering spark of key lime. —V.B.
abv: 13.9% Price: $30
89 Lucas & Lewellen 2016 Sauvignon Blanc
(Santa Barbara County). Almost crystal
clear in the glass, this bottling is loaded with pas-
sionfruit, lime candy and white flower aromas,
91 Sidebar 2015 Ritchie Vineyard Sauvignon
Blanc (Russian River Valley). Finding wine
from this vineyard site at this price is unheard of and
proving quite fresh and inviting. The flavors start
a tad sour, recalling squeezed lime, but then open
into tropical notes like honeydew and passionfruit.
reason enough to jump on this bottling. It also happens A perfect party-starting apéritif, with both style
to taste great—a combination of melon and preserved and substance. —M.K.
lemon flavor, with spicy acidity and a lift of grapefruit abv: 14.2% Price: $18
peel and wet stone that keeps it exotic. —V.B.
abv: 13.5% Price: $34
89 Stolo 2016 Estate Sauvignon Blanc (San Luis
Obispo County). This is a lively and fascinat-
91 Starmont 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val-
ley). For full review see page 95.
abv: 13.5% Price: $19
ing Sauvignon Blanc for those who love the herbal
side of the grape. Dill, basil and bell pepper aromas
garnish its baseline of graphite minerality. The pal-
ate also rides the pyrazine edge, showing cut grass,
90 Daou 2015 Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Ade-
laida District). The Daou brothers aren’t
known for subtlety, so it’s no surprise that this
lime peel, jalapeño and wet stone flavors. —M.K.
abv: 13.6% Price: $25
Sauvignon Blanc is rich and plush with oak-kissed
peach, smoked apple and toasted nut aromas. 88 Justin 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Central
Coast). Sharp lime skin aromas are warmed
BUYINGGUIDE
by Gala apple and wet river stone scents on the nose
of this bottling, which blends fruit from warmer
eastern vineyards and cooler western ones. It’s light
in structure and easy to quaff, with searing acidity
that carries into the finish. A stony texture frames
its honeydew and grapefruit flavors. —M.K.
abv: 14.5% Price: $14
88 Merriam 2016 Danielle Estate Sauvignon
Blanc (Russian River Valley). Blended with
3% Sémillon, this is a creamy, luxuriously tex-
tured wine with fresh peach and apricot aromas.
Rich with an underlying crispness, it finishes on a
squeeze of lime. —V.B.
abv: 13.7% Price: $20
88 Tangent 2015 Clone 530 Paragon Vineyard
Sauvignon Blanc (Edna Valley). This wine
from a Loire Valley clone is light in the glass and
reductive at first, showing dried grass and sour green
apple skin scents on the nose. That grassiness comes
through on the palate too, until more rounded stone-
fruit pops on the midpalate. Prominent acidity car-
ries those flavors into the finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.4% Price: $32
88 Troika 2015 Sauvignon Blanc (Calistoga).
This wine is hefty and hearty, with a dis-
tinct, salty flavor of stony minerals and dried herbs.
Melon and stone fruit notes lend additional succu-
lence and lasting richness. —V.B.
abv: 14.5% Price: $28
OREGON
CHARDONNAY
92 Big Table Farm 2015 Chardonnay (Willa-
mette Valley). A super vintage for this wine,
it opens with compelling roasty-toasty aromatics,
derived from barrel fermentation in 10% new oak.
Those aromas straddle flavors of citrus and apple,
and deliver a wine with cut and polish. It’s a stel-
lar example of the emerging high-quality style of the
top Oregon Chardonnays. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.3% Price: $45
92 Durant 2015 Raven Chardonnay (Dundee
Hills). This single clone estate-grown wine
was vinified 50-50 in stainless and mainly neu-
tral oak. It’s punchy and tight, with complex apple,
peach and lemon/lime fruit. A light touch of toast
enlivens the back palate and finish. Good already,
it’s designed for ageability. Drink now through 2028.
Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14% Price: $30
92 Tendril 2014 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley).
Sophisticated in every way, this engaging,
complex effort begins with fresh apple fruit, then
layers in lemon curd and sliced orange components.
There’s a touch of beeswax, and a creamy mouthfeel
that stretches out the finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $40
108 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
92 Trisaetum 2015 Ribbon Ridge Estate Char-
donnay (Ribbon Ridge). This single vineyard
cuvée has a lovely purity of expression. It’s Fred
Astaire in a bottle, with sculpted smooth apple fruit
that glides across the palate. Dotted with light hints
of baking spices, it finishes with a lush lingering pat
of butter. —P.G.
abv: 13.1% Price: $49
91 Goodfellow 2014 Richard’s Cuvée Whistling
Ridge Vineyard Chardonnay (Ribbon Ridge).
This reserve-level cuvée is the star of Goodfellow’s
Chardonnay lineup in 2014. Toasty, sleek and styl-
ish, it deftly skirts the border of stone and tropi-
cal fruits, melding the best of both. Buttered-nut
flavors coat the lingering finish. In short, here is a
textbook example of Oregon Chardonnay. —P.G.
abv: 13.4% Price: $39
91 Stoller 2015 Reserve Chardonnay (Dundee
Hills). Barrel-fermented and aged (18% new),
this uses fruit from the estate’s oldest Dijon vines,
planted in 1995. Nicely differentiated from the all-
stainless regular bottling, this offers juicy peach and
ripe apple fruit, anchored in lemony citrus. It’s full-
bodied, ripely fruity, and rounded out perfectly with
a touch of barrel toast. —P.G.
abv: 13.2% Price: $35
91 WildAire 2015 Open Claim Vineyard Chardon-
nay (Willamette Valley). A bright gold color,
this appealing wine keeps the alcohol down and
maximizes the impression of aging in one-sixth new
oak barrels—just enough to butter up the melony
fruit. It’s smooth and supple with a lingering toasty
finish. Drink now and over the next few years. —P.G.
abv: 13% Price: $30
90 Chehalem 2014 Stoller Vineyard Ian’s Reserve
Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). Back in
fine form, this shows crisp and fresh apple, white
peach and green melon fruit. Aged in 41% new and
25% one-year-old oak, it’s not especially toasty, but
has the concentration and balance to develop well
over the next six to eight years. —P.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $40
90 Durant 2015 Lark Chardonnay (Dundee
Hills). This single clone estate-grown wine
was vinified 50-50 in stainless and mainly neutral
oak. It’s classic, classy and clean, with well-delin-
eated components. Green melon, apple and citrus,
along with ample acid and some phenolic bite are
in harmonious balance. Another year or two in the
bottle could improve it still further. —P.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $30
90 Stoller 2016 Chardonnay (Dundee Hills).
Should you be looking for a bright, low
alcohol, fully dry, sappy, sassy and affordable Ore-
gon Chardonnay, here it is. All stainless steel fer-
mented and aged, it layers in lemon, grapefruit and
apple, backed with ample crisp acidity. —P.G.
abv: 12.5% Price: $25
90 Trisaetum 2015 Chardonnay (Willamette
Valley). Clean apple fruit with some yellow
plum as well, this carries a whisper of citrus. It’s a
sleek elegant wine, that won’t overpower you, nor
obscure the flavors of more delicate foods such as
prawns or whitefish. —P.G.
abv: 13.1% Price: $36
89 Goodfellow 2014 Chardonnay (Willamette
Valley). This wine spent 20 months in
French oak, which has given it an appealingly
smooth, lightly buttery character. It’s medium rich,
quite tasty, with a nutty flavor and a lime-inflected
finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.3% Price: $24
88 Wine by Joe 2015 Chardonnay (Willamette
Valley). This brings a pleasing mix of apple,
melon and peach fruit, with a good grip and moder-
ate length. It’s a fine all-purpose Oregon Chardonnay,
widely available at a wallet-friendly price. —P.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $14
87 Fullerton 2015 Five Faces Chardonnay (Wil-
lamette Valley). Still a bit fragmented, this
offers a core of tight apple and peach fruit. It was
barrel fermented (10% new) and that shell of barrel
flavors has not yet smoothed into the fruit. Give it
brisk aeration or another year in the bottle. —P.G.
abv: 12.7% Price: $33
PINOT GRIS
90 Elizabeth Chambers 2016 Pinot Gris (Wil-
lamette Valley). Volume is up and quality
is maintained on this excellent full-bodied wine.
It’s crisp and bone dry, with cucumber, jicama and
apple underscored with appealing minerality. The
texture and mouthfeel more than compensate for
the greenish edge to the fruit, and the finish is as
clean as the entry. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $18
89 WillaKenzie Estate 2016 Estate Grown Pinot
Gris (Willamette Valley). All stainless, no
malolactic and widely available distribution make
this a pure-blooded warm weather go-to white
wine. It’s young and still a bit yeasty, aromatic with
scents of seeds and grains. Tightly wound fruit fla-
vors of apple and green melon come with good depth
and texture. —P.G.
abv: 13.6% Price: $20
89 Wine by Joe 2015 Pinot Gris (Willamette
Valley). The star of the lineup, this nicely-
textured wine is a fine Chardonnay alternative.
Fleshy pear, light citrus and a burst of Meyer lemon
contribute equally. The length is what elevates this
above the basic supermarket style. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $14
88 Deer Creek 2016 Pinot Gris (Rogue Valley).
Perhaps it’s simply too young, but this lat-
est Pinot Gris from Deer Creek does not show the
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BUYINGGUIDE
complexity of recent vintages. It’s loaded with fresh
apple-juice snap and flavor and a squeeze of lemon.
Clean and fruit-centric, there’s nothing at all wrong
with it, and it’s a fine thirst-quencher for a hot
summer afternoon. —P.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $25
and this easily passes the two-day test, drinking
beautifully a full 24 hours after first being opened
and tasted. —P.G.
92 Durant 2014 La Casita Pinot Noir (Dundee
Hills). For full review see page 91.
abv: 14.2% Price: $60
abv: 13.5% Price: $50
93 Purple Hands 2015 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Yamhill-Carlton). Cody Wright sources his
92 Purple Hands 2015 Stoller Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Dundee Hills). This vineyard is really
coming into maturity, and it shows in the firm, pol-

88 Yamhill Valley 2015 Pinot Gris (McMin-

nville). This brings a lively mix of green cit-
rus and green banana, with a light streak of white
peach. All in all, it’s balanced and fresh, though it
falls on the lighter side, despite the generous fin-
ished alcohol. —P.G.
abv: 14.1% Price: $20
fruit from an A-list of Willamette Valley vineyards,
and Shea is right at the top. Cloaked in a milk choco-
late shell, this sophisticated wine melds blackberry
fruit with flavor-extending streaks of cola and cara-
mel. In scent and finish, there is a slight intriguing
hint of pine sap. —P.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $50
ished and dense flavors. Black cherry and savory
herb components meld nicely, with streaks of min-
erally earth. Some skin contact is apparent in the
tannins, which will benefit from a bit more bottle
age. —P.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $50

93 Tendril 2014 TightRope Pinot Noir (Willa- 91 Archery Summit 2014 Archery Summit Estate
Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). A good (not great)
OTHER WHITE WINES mette Valley). This is Tendril’s reserve offer- year for this cuvée, brings supple strawberry and
ing, better than ever in 2014. Deeply inscribed fla- cherry flavors, streaked with a strong taste of chicken

92 Tendril 2014 Pretender White Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This new
entry into the growing ranks of Oregon Pinot Noir vin-
ified in the style of a white wine belongs with the very
best of them. A hint of tawny gold results from barrel
fermentation (all neutral) and 16 months of lees stir-
ring prior to bottling. It’s rich and layered with toast,
apples, pears, cream and a touch of citrus. —P.G.
abv: 14.1% Price: $60
vors of black cherry, cola and espresso come through
in a textural, detailed and quite delicious wine. It’s
the darkest of the winery’s Pinots, barrel aged for
stock. The wine is drinking okay, but re-tasting on
the second day did not show the sort of development
that promises a good long cellar life. —P.G.
16 months and bottle aged for another year prior abv: 14.5% Price: $150
to release. Toasted nuts, crackers and a dash of salt
complete the flavors. —P.G.
abv: 14.2% Price: $60 91 Coeur de Terre 2014 Abby’s Block Reserve
Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Lovely aro-
matics suggest wet stone, raspberry and pomegran-
92 Archery Summit 2014 Archer’s Edge Estate
Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). For full review see
ate. This is a sleek, subtle wine. Its winery notes
suggest it is a “slow bloomer” in the glass, which

90 Matello 2015 Whistling Ridge (Ribbon

Ridge). Identified only as a “field blend,”
this well-balanced wine offers citrus (lime), apple
page 90.
abv: 14.5%
and peach flavors, along with a whiff of honeycomb.
The texture is most appealing, and hints at just- 92
Price: $85
proves out if you give it that chance. It’s balanced
and resonant, with the promise of further improve-
ment with another few years of bottle age. —P.G.
Archery Summit 2014 Looney Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Young, forward and
abv: 14.3% Price: $65

picked green herbs. —P.G.

abv: 12.7% Price: $NA
energetic, this brings a fresh mix of strawberry and
raspberry with a suggestion of cantaloupe melon.
Other grace notes bring coffee and cola, all well-
91 Coeur de Terre 2014 Oregon Pinot Noir (Wil-
lamette Valley). Crafted principally from
estate-grown fruit, this has the complexity and

88 Henry Estate 2016 Müller-Thurgau (Umpqua

Valley). A strength at Henry Estate, this is
off dry and lightly fizzy. It’s fresh as can be, with
just-picked green herbs (cilantro and lemon grass)
and tangerine flavors. Drink chilled during the first
summer following the vintage. —P.G.
integrated. A distinct flavor of chicken broth comes
up and lingers through the finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.8% Price: $85
downright panache of a far more expensive bot-
tling. Mixed brambly red fruits combine seamlessly,
punching through to a lingering finish etched in min-
erals. What a terrific value! Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
92 Archery Summit 2014 Premier Cuvée Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley). For full review see
abv: 14.2% Price: $22

abv: 12.5% Price: $15 page 91.

abv: 14.5% Price: $54 91 Coeur de Terre 2014 Renelle’s Block Reserve
Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Derived from

88 Sweet Cheeks 2016 Sauvignon Blanc

(Umpqua Valley). Packed with fresh flavors
of ripe grapefruit, this palate-cleaning Sauvignon
Blanc is a nice match for simple dishes such as
boneless chicken breast pan-fried in olive oil. Wet
stone minerality underscores the vivid acids. —P.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $20
PINOT NOIR
92 Big Table Farm 2015 Pinot Noir (Willamette
Valley). Outgoing and easy to like, this brings
tart and juicy raspberry and pomegranate fruit front
and center. Details pile on: hibiscus tea and rosewa-
ter in particular. It’s stylish through and through,
with a long clean finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.9% Price: $42
92 Coeur de Terre 2014 Sarah Jane’s Block
Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). One
the original planting in 1999, this nine-clone blend
is a ripe, rich and complex wine, with the structure
to age well over the medium term. Raspberry and
cherry fruit comes with a touch of dried herb and
the estate’s signature minerality. —P.G.
abv: 14.3% Price: $65
91 Dobbes Family Estate 2014 Grand Assemblage
Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For full review
see page 94. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.6% Price: $28

93
Choice.
Domaine Divio 2015 Pinot Noir (Ribbon
Ridge). For full review see page 89. Editors’
of a quintet of estate reserves, this stands out for its
delicious mix of chocolate (barrel) and savory high-
lights. Purple brambly fruits abound, with streaks 91 Durant 2014 Bishop Pinot Noir (Dundee
Hills). All Pommard clone, from vines 30 and
abv: 13.7% Price: $48 of coffee and brown spices. It’s full flavored and 40-years-old, this offers concentrated strawberry
drinking nicely already, with another six to eight and cherry, with delicate highlights of stem and leaf.

93 Purple Hands 2015 Holstein Vineyard Pinot

Noir (Dundee Hills). An outstanding vintage
for this cuvée, this sports a concentrated mix of
years of solid drinking time ahead. Note: first bottle
was corked. —P.G.
abv: 14.3% Price: $65
The balance and focus are spot-on, and the wine
fades gently into a soft finale. —P.G.
abv: 14.3% Price: $50
plum and cherry fruit, matched to perfectly propor-
tioned acids. Tannins are supportive and yet subtle,

110 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

91 Goodfellow 2014 Durant Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Dundee Hills). This is a fine expression of
old-vine fruit, with raspberry and cherry along with
juicy highlights of pineapple and grapefruit. Tan-
nins are a bit stiff right out of the bottle, so an hour
or two of aeration is in order, or tuck it away until
2020–2022. —P.G.
abv: 14.2% Price: $42
90 Big Table Farm 2015 Pelos Sandberg Vine-
yard Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Crisply
fruity, this shows some carbonic brightness, push-
bumps and rough edges, though a touch of phenolic
bite remains. Drink from 2018 to 2022. —P.G.
abv: 13.9% Price: $70
ing cranberry and raspberry fruit ahead of lighter
flavors of cherry Popsicle. It’s a lightweight, yet
delightful, summertime red. —P.G.
abv: 13.3% Price: $48
90 Coeur de Terre 2014 Héritage Reserve Pinot
Noir (McMinnville). This barrel selection
brings bright flavors of salmonberry and raspberry,
with highlights of citrus peel. It’s precise and tart;

91 Purple Hands 2015 Freedom Hill Vineyard

Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). A steely mix
of raspberries and cherries frames the core fruit
with tart citrus. There’s a hint of gunmetal, along
with tight well-ripened tannins. Solid winemaking
all around. —P.G.
90 Chehalem 2014 Ridgecrest Vineyards
Reserve Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Flavors
roll from cranberry to sweet red cherry in a red-
less ripe than many wines from this warm year, but
balanced and focused. —P.G.
abv: 14.1% Price: $36
fruit riot. It was aged in 52% new and 24% one-
year-old oak, but it’s unobtrusive and not especially
toasty. The barrel time has begun to smooth out any 90 Coeur de Terre 2014 Tallulah’s Run Reserve
Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This opens

abv: 13.5% Price: $50

91 Purple Hands 2015 Kropf Vineyard Pinot

Noir (Dundee Hills). When first opened, this
seemed a bit shallow, but it blossomed with breath-
ing time into a lovely brambly berry-soaked wine
with a full-bodied palate. Streaks of cola and molas-
ses come up also, lengthening the finish and adding
texture and detail. —P.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $50

91 Purple Hands 2015 Le Nouveau Monde Pinot

Noir (Oregon). A barrel selection aged in
three-quarters new oak, this is nonetheless surpris-
ingly light, as the oak does not intrude. Elements
of the entire red-fruit spectrum, from rhubarb to
cranberry to raspberry to red plum all come up,
though the wine retains a rather delicate aspect that
rewards your attention. The tannins are drying and
lightly chocolatey. —P.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $90

91 Stoller 2015 Reserve Pinot Noir (Dundee

Hills). This is a warm rich enveloping wine
that opens with details such as candied orange peel
and maraschino cherries. It’s smooth and resonant
across a palate of plummy purple fruits, and there’s
just a hint of brown rum in the aftertaste. Drink now
through 2024. —P.G.
abv: 14.1% Price: $45

91 Tendril 2014 Extrovert Pinot Noir (Willamette

Valley). Built for immediate enjoyment, this
brings a tasty mix of berries and cherries, rounded
off with 15 months in one-year-old barrels. The
delicious burst of mocha around the fruit is what
propels this wine, and invites the second glass as
soon as the first is finished. —P.G.
abv: 14.1% Price: $48

90 Ancien 2014 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir

(Oregon). This Napa-based company has
acquired some Oregon Pinot from a top vineyard,
and made a tasty, nicely detailed wine with it.
Scents and flavors conjure up plum, candied orange
peel and baking spices, guaranteed to tickle the taste
buds. It’s a little bumpy in the finish, perhaps as a
result of the long ride south taken by the grapes.
Drink now while it’s at its best. —P.G.
abv: 13.9% Price: $60

WINEMAG.COM | 111
BUYINGGUIDE
with juicy cranberry and cherry fruit, remaining
concentrated through the core palate. Good as it is,
the wine fades more quickly than its reserve sib-
lings, which would suggest drinking this one first
while the others gain further time in bottle. —P.G.
abv: 14.3% Price: $65
aging 16 months in 42% new French oak has not
turned it into a walk through a lumber yard. —P.G.
abv: 14.4% Price: $50
89 Dobbes Family Estate 2014 Eola Amity Cuvée
Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). This cuvée
offers a mix of blue and purple fruits, with a forward
butter and stone fruit. The palate is full bodied with
sweet, generous peach and tropical-fruit flavors
that sail on the finish. —S.S.
abv: 14.2% Price: $35
90 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2015 Canoe Ridge
Estate Chardonnay (Horse Heaven Hills). For

90 Durant 2014 Ava Roan Pinot Noir (Dundee

Hills). This is all Pommard clone from rela-
tively young vines (planted in 2007.) Concentrated
grape-candy-character dominant. It’s fruity and
drinking nicely, but lacks the stuffing to improve
much further with age. —P.G.
full review see page 96.
abv: 14.5% Price: $20

strawberry and cherry fruit comes with some phe-

nolic bite, perhaps just the result of its youth. It’s
abv: 14.2% Price: $35
90 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2015 Cold Creek Vine-
yard Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). For full
balanced and tangy, and will benefit from another
year or two of bottle age. —P.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $50
89 Eugene Wine Cellars 2015 b2 Pinot Noir (Wil-
lamette Valley). This is full bodied while
retaining varietal specificity. Tart strawberry, cherry
review see page 96.
abv: 14.5% Price: $22

90 Purple Hands 2015 Pinot Noir (Willamette

Valley). The entry-level offering from Pur-
and plum fruit anchors a strong midpalate, with pro-
portionate tannins bringing a touch of black olive to
wrap it up. —P.G.
90 Three Rivers 2015 Reserve Chardonnay
(Columbia Valley). Aromas of clarified but-
ter are at the fore, followed by a spice top note. The
ple Hands is broad and delicious, loaded with lush abv: 13% Price: $20 palate is rich and creamy in feel, lingering on the
ripe strawberry fruit. There’s a dash of white pep- finish. —S.S.
per, which further pops up the flavors. Vivid and
absolutely yummy, this is one to enjoy over the next 89 Goodfellow 2014 Bishop Creek Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). All the right
abv: 13.8% Price: $29

couple of years. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.

abv: 13.5% Price: $25
components are in place here, but not yet entirely
melded into a complete whole. Stem, earth, nettles
and somewhat submerged cherry flavors are in the
89 Sleight of Hand 2015 The Enchantress
French Creek Vineyard Old Vine Chardonnay
(Yakima Valley). This wine comes from 35-year-

90 Purple Hands 2015 Latchkey Vineyard Pinot

Noir (Dundee Hills). This is all Pommard
clone, with a tart racy mix of cranberry and rasp-
berry fruit. It’s juicy and young, with sharp, precise
edges. Tannins remain slightly bitter, but a couple
more years in bottle should fix that. —P.G.
mix. The finish brings a seam of caramel, and a bit
of a back-throat burn. —P.G.
abv: 13.9% Price: $39
old vines at French Creek Vineyard. Light aromas of
spice, herb and candlewax are followed by a medium-
bodied palate brightened by lively, lemony acidity.
Put it on the dinner table to see it at its best. —S.S.
89 Gooseneck 2015 Pinot Noir (Oregon). Goose-
neck is based in Rhode Island but sources
abv: 14.1% Price: $28

abv: 13.5% Price: $50 wines from around the world. This Pinot was pro-
duced at River’s Edge, in the Elkton Oregon AVA—a 88 Board Track Racer 2015 Chardonnay (Yakima
Valley). This wine starts out lightly reduc-

90 Stoller 2015 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills).

Stoller offers fine value across its entire
portfolio. This is solidly crafted and estate-grown,
from the heart of the Dundee Hills AVA. There’s a
gentle touch of new oak, among a flavorful mix of
strawberries, cherries and oranges. The moderate
alcohol signals a balanced wine with ample acidity.
Drink now through 2022. —P.G.
abv: 13.5% Price: $30
good start. It’s a delicious bottle, with flavors of
oranges and cherries streaked with cola. The aro-
matics are spot-on, and the wine delivers terrific
pleasure for the price. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14% Price: $19
89 Seufert 2012 Horseleap Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley). Scents immedi-
ately conjure up a mix of iron filings, black lico-
rice, espresso and dark chocolate. The core fruit is
tive, providing initial distraction from the aromas of
pear, lees and spice. The palate is medium bodied,
with a creamy, generous feel. —S.S.
abv: 14.1% Price: $28
88 Dunham 2015 Shirley Mays Lewis Estate
Vineyard Chardonnay (Columbia Valley).
Bright aromas of toast, spice and pear are followed
by medium-bodied fruit flavors that persist on the
finish. —S.S.

90 Timothy Malone 2015 Pinot Noir (Wil-

lamette Valley). This new family-run
black also—berries and cherries. Flavors are right
out front, while the finishing tannins have a slightly
abv: 14.1% Price: $25

enterprise offers exceptional value among a tight

portfolio of Rieslings and Pinot Noirs. This pretty
fruit-powered wine used native yeast, received
minimal handling, and was aged 18 months in 10%
new oak. Orange slices and sweet cherry juice com-
bine in a fresh and forward effort perfect for sum-
mer sipping. —P.G.
abv: 14.2% Price: $25
ashy mouthfeel. —P.G.
abv: 14.5% Price: $40 88 Snoqualmie 2015 Chardonnay (Columbia
Valley). Bright aromas of fresh pear and
melon are followed by a medium-bodied palate that
89 Yamhill Valley 2014 Reserve Pinot Noir
(McMinnville). Scents of rose petals and
cocoa powder elevate the nose, leading into pretty
sails right down the fairway. It’s a guaranteed crowd
pleaser. Best Buy. —S.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $10
chocolate cherry flavors in the mouth. It’s set atop
a lightly tart foundation that brings accents of
oranges and tangerines, and finishes with a touch 87 Lauren Ashton Cellars 2015 Chardonnay
(Columbia Valley). The aromas seem a bit

89 Chehalem 2015 Three Vineyard Pinot Noir

(Willamette Valley). All estate-grown grapes
go into this early release. Juicy cranberry and rasp-
of leather. —P.G.
abv: 14.3% Price: $40
disjointed on first pour, with notes of custard, cit-
rus, mineral and spice. The palate is medium bod-
ied, bringing some interest but not entirely pulling
berry fruit, tart and slightly savory, backs into drying it all together. —S.S.
tannins, finishing with a touch of stem. —P.G. WASHINGTON abv: 14.1% Price: $25
abv: 13.9% Price: $29
CHARDONNAY
OTHER WHITE WINES
89 Deer Creek 2014 Private Reserve Pinot Noir
(Rogue Valley). Medium weight and nicely
91 Gorman 2015 The Big Sissy Chardonnay
focused, this brings spicy fruit flavors of cranberry
and cherry into play. There’s ample tart acidity, and
(Columbia Valley). Pale straw in color, this
wine brings alluring aromas of toast, spice, clarified 89 Lauren Ashton Cellars 2016 Chenin Blanc
(Columbia Valley). Rothrock Vineyard pro-

112 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

vides the fruit for this wine that was fermented and
aged in neutral French oak. The aromas are light,
with notes of herb, chamomile, green apple and
spice. It’s medium bodied, backed by vibrant acidity
that carries through the finish. —S.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $25

89 Mark Ryan 2015 Viognier (Columbia Valley).

This blend holds fruit from Olsen and Red
Willow vineyards. Aromas start out lightly reduced,
followed by notes of stone fruit, spice and mineral.
The peach flavors are full bodied, bringing generos-
ity and appeal. —S.S.
abv: 14.4% Price: $30

89 Savage Grace 2016 Underwood Mountain

Vineyards Grüner Veltliner (Columbia Gorge).
This variety is extremely rare in Washington, espe-
cially in single-vineyard wines that are dry farmed.
Light aromas of white pepper, lime and herb are fol-
lowed by a dry palate marked by a strong sense of
acidity. It needs food to shine. —S.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $24

89 Sleight of Hand 2015 The Magician Ever-

green Vineyard Riesling (Ancient Lakes).
Very primary aromas of lime zest and mineral are
followed by lightly spritzy, just a hair off-dry citrus
flavors backed by bright, tart acidity. —S.S.
abv: 12.1% Price: $18

88 14 Hands 2015 Reserve Late Harvest Viog-

nier (Horse Heaven Hills). The aromas are
somewhat light considering the variety and style,
with notes of orange peel and flower. It drinks
sweet, finishing with orange flavors. It’s enjoyable
but the concentration doesn’t seem all there. —S.S.
abv: 9.5% Price: $22/375 ml
88 Zero One Vintners 2015 6 Riesling (Columbia
Valley). Vibrant aromas of honeysuckle, jas-
mine, mandarin orange and petroleum jelly lead to
just off-dry, lightly spritzy fruit flavors. Tart, lively
acidity keeps the interest high. —S.S.
abv: 12.4% Price: $15
freshness along with a compelling mouthfeel. Pair it
with food to see it at its best. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.8% Price: $35
89 Owen Roe 2014 The Pearl Block Union Gap
Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Yakima Valley).
Somewhat lighter in color, this wine offers subtle

88 Gorman 2015 The F.O.G. Gewürztraminer

(Columbia Gorge). This barrel-aged wine
brings bright aromas of ginger, spice and lychee. It’s
CABERNET FRANC
aromas of raspberries, flowers and herb. The flavors
are lithe and delicate, with coffee accents that per-
sist on the lingering finish. It’s a very pretty expres-
rich and full bodied, showing some warmth on the
finish. —S.S.
abv: 14.9% Price: $28
91 Damsel 2014 Boushey Vineyard Cabernet
Franc (Yakima Valley). This 100% varietal
wine comes from a vineyard best known for its
sion of this variety. —S.S.
abv: 14.1% Price: $72

88 Lauren Ashton Cellars 2016 Cuvée Meline

(Columbia Valley). This wine is a blend of
Sémillon (55%) and Sauvignon Blanc from Cave B
and Mercer Estate vineyards. Aromas are reticent
at present, with notes of reduction, grass, herb and
spice. The palate is flavorful, with citrus and tropi-
cal-fruit flavors. It delivers a lot of enjoyment. —S.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $27
Syrah. It offers brooding aromas of mortared savory
herbs, bittersweet chocolate and spice that lead to
tart, well-balanced fruit flavors, backed by lightly
89 Swiftwater Cellars 2014 Cabernet Franc
(Columbia Valley). Dark in color, this aro-
matic brooder brings notes of pencil lead, herb
dry tannins. —S.S. and black and purple fruit. Flavors are rich and
abv: 14.4% Price: $32 liquorous, showing tannic heft along with a bit of
astringency. The variety isn’t readily apparent but
91 Gorman 2014 The F.O.G. Cabernet Franc (Red
Mountain). High-toned herb aromas mix with
barrel spice, pencil lead and blackberry notes on
the wine is delicious all the same. —S.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $42

88 Lauren Ashton Cellars 2016 Roussanne

(Columbia Valley). It’s rare to see an offering
of this variety in Washington. This one comes from
Lonesome Springs Vineyard. Aromas are initially so
light you need to strain to get at them, with notes of
lemon zest and herb. The palate is medium bodied,
with stone-fruit flavors that provide appeal. —S.S.
this initially aromatically brooding wine. The pal-
ate holds nothing back with rich, intense black-fruit
flavors that display a ripe style. It’s a bit hard to get
88 Ribbon Cliff 2013 Cabernet Franc (Columbia
Valley). The variety is unmistakable here,
with aromas of savory herb mixed with cherry and
at the variety but the yum factor is there. —S.S. accented by sweet barrel spices. Flavors are light,
abv: 15% Price: $80 dry and reserved in style, with abundant barrel
accents that prove a bit distracting. —S.S.
91 Seven Hills 2014 Cabernet Franc (Walla Walla
Valley). Aromas are fragrant and appealing,
abv: 13.8% Price: $35

abv: 13.5% Price: $25 with notes of fresh flowers, rubbed herb, cherry,
anise, clove and barrel spice. The palate shows 87 Gamache 2013 Vineyard Select Reserve Cab-
ernet Franc (Columbia Valley). This wine is a
blend of fruit from Gamache (65%) and Ciel du Che-

WINEMAG.COM | 113
BUYINGGUIDE
val vineyards. Aromas of game, Band Aid and dried
cherry are followed by lush, sweet fruit and savory
flavors. There are some interesting things going on
up the majority of this wine, with the balance from
Olsen Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. Aromas are
bright and fruit forward, with notes of purple fruit
88 Owen Roe 2015 Ex Umbris Syrah (Yakima
Valley). Nuanced aromas of red fruit, herb,
smoked meat and spice are followed by a full-fla-
but the gaminess proves too distracting. —S.S. and spice. The palate is rich, dense and dark, pulling vored palate that seems tart, almost sour at times.
abv: 14.5% Price: $40 up just a touch toward the finish. —S.S. Some rough edges still need to be rounded out but
abv: 14.9% Price: $48 this wine has good stuffing. —S.S.
abv: 14.1% Price: $21
SYRAH
91 Pursued by Bear 2013 Baby Bear Syrah (Colum-
bia Valley). In this blend of fruit from Lewis
88 Seven Falls 2014 GPS Series Mracheck Vine-

93 Mark Ryan 2014 Lost Soul Red Willow Vine-

yard Syrah (Yakima Valley). Coming from
one of the state’s premier Syrah vineyards, this
wine offers perfumed, intense aromas of boysen-
berry, tar, mineral, smoked meat and fresh flower.
The palate boasts dense, seamless purple and black-
fruit flavors that sail on the finish. It’s a standout
example of the variety. —S.S.
abv: 14.8% Price: $48
and Phinny Hill vineyards, sweet spice, baking
spice, vanilla and dark fruit lead to silky dark fruit
and barrel flavors. The wood influence is primary
but it still brings a lot of appeal. —S.S.
abv: 14% Price: $60
91 Savage Grace 2016 Red Willow Vineyard Syrah
(Yakima Valley). This wine comes from three-
year-old vines at this esteemed vineyard. Lighter in
color, it has aromas that pop and are very primary,
yard Syrah (Wahluke Slope). Baking spice,
vanilla and dark-fruit aromas are followed by dark
cherry and coffee flavors that linger on the finish.
The barrel influence seems a little intense. —S.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $40
88 William Church 2014 Keystone Series Lewis
Vineyard Syrah (Columbia Valley). Aromas
of cola, herb, barrel spice and cherry lead to plen-
tiful cola flavors. The palate brings some heft but

92 Gorman 2014 The Pixie Syrah (Red Moun-

tain). Brooding dark fruit and luxurious
French oak spices intermingle on the aromas. The
palate is seamless with pitch-black fruit flavors. Not
a shy wine, it’s an exhibition of power. —S.S.
abv: 15% Price: $45
92 Savage Grace 2015 Underwood Mountain
Vineyards Syrah (Columbia Gorge). This
wine hails from an up-and-coming appellation and
one of the few dry-farmed vineyards in the state.
Nuanced aromas of white pepper, dried flower, herb
and lemon zest provide direct appeal. It’s light, tart
and elegant on the palate, showing a mesmerizing
sense of purity and restraint. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 13.3% Price: $35
with notes of boysenberry, raspberry and herb.
Lighter in style, the flavors are pure and direct,
showing no new oak influence (neutral barrels for
the tannins possess a slight sense of grittiness that
distracts. —S.S.
abv: 15.1% Price: $55
four months) and an appealing feel. The purity is
dazzling. It impresses on its own but is meant to be
shown at the dinner table. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. CHILE
abv: 12.4% Price: $28
CHARDONNAY
91 William Church 2014 Red Willow Vineyard
Syrah (Yakima Valley). Coming from one of
the state’s top Syrah vineyards, this wine offers aro-
mas of herb, stem, flower, smoked meat and mari-
87 Lapostolle 2015 Grand Selection Chardon-
nay (Rapel Valley). Plump, buttery aromas
of apple and peach suggest popcorn. Typical of a
onberry that are followed by a velvety palate redo- Lapostolle Chardonnay, this feels a bit chunky and
lent with fruit and savory flavors. It delivers a lot of oily. Flavors of pineapple are slightly syrupy and
enjoyment and sophistication. —S.S. oaky, while this tastes of honey, butter, stone fruits
abv: 14.4% Price: $40 and mango on the finish. Terlato Wines Interna-
tional. —M.S.

91 Damsel 2014 Syrah (Columbia Valley). All

coming from Stillwater Creek, this aromatic 90 Barnard Griffin 2015 Syrah (Columbia Val-
ley). This is an intriguing offering, with
abv: 13.5% Price: $14

wine offers vibrant aromas of purple fruit along

with herb, whiffs of smoked meat and violets. The
palate is tart, bright and fresh, with lively acidity
and good depth of flavor. —S.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $28
aromas of crushed flower, herb, orange peel, blue
fruit and wet stone. The palate is loaded with fruit
and savory flavors that show a delicate styling. The
balance is downright impressive. —S.S.
abv: 13.8% Price: $17
87 Leyda 2015 Lot 5 Chardonnay (Leyda Valley).
Aromas of starched sheets and lanolin show
a hint of apple. This feels rather lean and similar to
soda: there isn’t much body to it. Tropical melony fla-
vors are oaky, and the finish turns downright woody
and sweet like canned pineapple. MundoVino–The

91 Gorman 2014 The Sleeping Giant Boushey

Vineyard Syrah (Yakima Valley). This is an
aromatic wine, with notes of blackberry, braised
89 Swiftwater Cellars 2014 Syrah (Columbia
Valley). This aromatic wine suggests a bowl
of fruit, with notes of blueberries and blackberries
Winebow Group. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $40

meat, Kalamata olive, iron and French-oak spices.

The palate holds nothing back, with bold, rich fruit
flavors that coat the palate, showing warmth on the
finish. Although the oak seems prominent it still
provides enjoyment. —S.S.
abv: 15.6% Price: $60
sprinkled with herbs. The palate is tart and supple,
showing good concentration of flavor. —S.S.
abv: 14.2% Price: $35
86 Errazuriz 2016 Max Reserva Chardonnay
(Aconcagua Costa). Dusty spice and resiny
oak aromas sit on top of pedestrian apple, pear and
melon notes. This Chardonnay from a complicated,
88 Columbia Crest 2014 Reserve Coyote Can-
yon Syrah (Horse Heaven Hills). Aromas
of smoke, herb, barrel spice and dark fruit lead to
rainy vintage feels round and chunky, and sort of oily.
Oaky peach flavors finish with little but barrel spice.
Vintus LLC. —M.S.

91 Lauren Ashton Cellars 2013 Syrah (Columbia

Valley). A blend of fruit from Ambassador
medium-bodied, supple fruit flavors. It doesn’t all
seem to come together at present, with the wood
abv: 13% Price: $20

(Red Mountain) and Dineen (Rattlesnake Hills)

vineyards, the aromas start off high toned, with
notes of violets, talc and purple fruit. The flavors
seeming primary. —S.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $40 86 Santa Rita 2015 Reserva Chardonnay (Casa-
blanca Valley). Mild peach aromas are hon-
eyed, with an oaky note of vanilla. This is melony
are big, dark and bold, packing a mouthful of fruit
but not sacrificing on balance. —S.S.
abv: 14.7% Price: $35
88 Hedges 2013 Descendants Liégeois Dupont
Les Gosses Vineyard Syrah (Red Mountain).
This wine is brooding, with aromas of dark cherry
and plump on the palate, with just enough acidity
to create balance. Mild flavors of melon and white
fruits are largely generic, while this tastes yeasty,
and game. The palate boasts bold fruit and savory fla- oaky and a touch buttery on the finish. Palm Bay

91 Mark Ryan 2014 Wild Eyed Syrah (Red Moun-

tain). Ciel du Cheval Vineyard fruit makes
vors along with slightly bunched-up tannins. —S.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $30
International. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $13

114 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

86 Siegel 2016 Crucero Collection Chardonnay
(Colchagua Valley). A mix of lemon and
melon aromas comes before a lightly oaked medium-
bodied palate. Oak-based flavors are more obvious
than fruit-related ones, while this has a resiny oaky
character on the finish. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $13
86 Calcu 2016 Reserva Especial Sauvignon
Blanc (Colchagua Valley). Aromas of sweat
and sea water are more pyrazine-based than fruity.
blend with lean citrus notes prior to a basic short
finish. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $12
This is racy and sharp in feel, with briny salty fla-
vors of lemon and green herbs. Throughout, this
cutting SB is more salty tasting than fruity. Global
Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
86 Viña Maipo 2016 Vitral Reserva Sauvignon
Blanc (Chile). Slightly oily, gritty aromas
display some but not a lot of citrus essence. This is
abv: 13% Price: $13 a tightly wound SB with briny lime and tart kiwi fla-

86 Veramonte 2016 Chardonnay (Casablanca

Valley). Oaky, nutty, slightly oily aromas lead
to a regular-feeling palate with resiny weight. Salty,
lightly oaked flavors of stone fruits don’t change
much on a finish with melony flavors and light barrel
notes. Gonzalez Byass USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $10
SAUVIGNON BLANC
86 François Lurton 2016 Araucano Reserva
Made With Organic Grapes Sauvignon Blanc
vors. A fresh snappy finish tastes of high-acid citrus
fruits. Fetzer Vineyards. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12.5% Price: $11
(Lolol Valley). Saline aromas, celery notes and mild
citrus scents make up the nose on this slightly round
SB. Herbal green-fruit flavors finish with controlled
pyrazinic bitterness. Winesellers, Ltd. —M.S.
85 Indomita 2016 Gran Reserva Sauvignon
Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Aromas of citrus
fruits, green herbs, grass and celery set up a shear
abv: 13.5% Price: $13 lean palate with little body and pointed acidity. Tart
lemon-lime flavors are crisp and scouring on the
86 Polkura 2016 Aylin Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda
Valley). This is an improvement over recent
finish. Laird & Company. —M.S.
abv: 12.5% Price: $13

87 Balduzzi 2016 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc

(Maule Valley). Snappy grapefruit and
tangerine aromas are clean and crisp. That also
describes the palate on this Maule Valley SB. Fairly
intense flavors of lemon-lime and grapefruit cruise
across a racy, unbroken finish. Vintage Wines Inc.
Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $11
vintages, but still a bit vegetal on the nose, with aro-
mas of canned beans or peas blending with citrus
notes. A slightly oily mouthfeel frames briny citrus 85 Santa Ema 2016 Amplus Sauvignon Blanc
(Leyda Valley). Vegetal-leaning aromas of
and tarragon flavors. Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S. beans, peas and squash lead to a round somewhat
abv: 13.5% Price: $15 flabby palate. Green, herbal flavors crowd out mild
citrus and melon notes in front of a low-acid soft
86 Viña Casablanca 2016 Cefiro Reserva Sau-
vignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Dusty
gritty citrus aromas are briny and piercing. This
finish. Guarachi Wine Partners. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $24

87 Errazuriz 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Aconcagua

Costa). Briny grassy aromas are barely ripe
and smell of match stick. This feels citric and more
feels honest and solid, but cutting. Grassy flavors

or less normal for a coastal SB. Pithy flavors of

grapefruit skins blend with passion fruit in front
of a juicy finish that tastes of white grapefruit and
green herbs. Vintus LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $23

87 Undurraga 2016 Aliwen Reserva Sauvignon

Blanc (San Antonio-Maipo Valley). Balanced
aromas of green herbs and citrus zest are fresh and
vital but not aggressive. A lemony twinge of acidity
lends snap to the palate, while this tastes of pithy
briny tangerine and other citrus fruits. Flavors of
salt, lime and grapefruit share the finish. Drink now.
Maritime Wine Trading Collective. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13% Price: $12

87 Undurraga 2016 Sibaris Gran Reserva Sau-

vignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). This light-
colored, almost clear, SB opens with pungent, fairly
sharp aromas of sea brine and sweaty citrus fruits.
In the mouth, this is tight, edgy and pointy due to
blazing acidity. Citrus, bell pepper and green-herb
flavors finish peppery and with scouring acidity.
Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $15

87 Viña Casablanca 2016 Nimbus Single Vine-

yard Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley).
Briny citrus aromas are mild to the point of quiet.
This clear-looking SB is in solid shape on the palate.
Peppery lightly zesty flavors include a note of sweet
green melon, while this tastes a bit like jalapeño pep-
pers on the finish. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $15

WINEMAG.COM | 115
BUYINGGUIDE
85 Valdivieso 2016 Sauvignon Blanc (Central
Valley). Briny saltwater aromas dominate
a mild mostly fruitless nose. This feels basic and
round, with a lemony streak. Mild nectarine flavors
don’t amount to much, while this is simple and
generic on the finish. Wine Bridge Imports. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12% Price: $10
85 Viñedos Marchigüe 2016 Marchile Sauvignon
Blanc (Curicó Valley). Briny pithy citrus aro-
mas and a standard-feeling palate tell you this is
regular but solidly made. Citrus flavors are largely
ripe, while pithy grapefruit notes are found on the
finish. Drink now. Pacific Rim Wine Logistics. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12% Price: $8
CARMENÈRE
94 Santa Carolina 2011 Herencia Carmenère
(Peumo). For full review see page 89. Edi-
tors’ Choice.
abv: 14.8% Price: $100
90 San Pedro 2012 Tieras Moradas Carmenère
(Maule Valley). Bold sun-enriched aromas
of olive, spice, tobacco and blackberry are what
you’d expect from this warm-climate Carmenère
grown on magnesium-infused soils. A full sappy
palate is syrupy, while this big boy tastes of black-
ened toasty blackberry and cassis along with herbs.
An easy, almost soft finish isn’t demanding. Shaw-
Ross International Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $50
90 Valdivieso 2012 Single Vineyard Carmenère
(Peumo). Classic Carmenère aromas of
leafy black fruits come with notes of herbal bath
soap, tobacco and cigar box. A full fleshy palate is
plump rather than tight or tough. Blackened pep-
pery black-fruit flavors finish chocolaty and slightly
herbal. Wine Bridge Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $25
87 Porta 2016 Estate Bottled Reserva Carme-
nère (Maipo Valley). Meaty berry and black
plum aromas fold in a touch of peppercorn. A crisp
direct palate is balanced, while spicy black-fruit fla-
vors include a note of burnt toast. Blackened spice
is up front on a slightly fiery finish. Deutsch Family
Wine and Spirits. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $10
87 Viña Marty 2013 Ilaia Carmenère (Maule Val-
ley). Solid berry aromas don’t go crazy with
the oak, spice or herbal components. A chunky pulpy
palate is a bit soft, while peppery herbal animal notes
comfortably work their way into core blackberry fla-
vors. Flavors of herbal fruits and cured meats lend
quality to the finish. Wines & Beyond Import. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $11
116 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
86 Cuyen 2016 Carmenère (Central Valley).
Cherry, cassis, tomato sauce and crushed
leaves are the aromas on this rubbery-feeling Carme-
nère. Spiced cherry flavors don’t show much depth
or complexity, while this feels dry and tastes lightly
oaky on the finish. Universal Beverage Importer. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12.5% Price: $10
86 Junta 2010 Grand Reserve Carmenère (Curicó
Valley). Hard aromas of road tar and herbal
berry fruits are the definition of gritty. Leafy dry
red-fruit flavors are light on ripeness, while this is
spicy tasting and drawing on the finish. Apollo Fine
Wines & Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $17
86 Santa Ema 2016 Select Terroir Carmenère
(Colchagua Valley). Plum aromas are a bit
herbal and leafy. This is fresh and fairly well bal-
anced for value-priced Carmenère. Flavors of herbal
berry fruits and oak are basic but good, while this
tastes minty, spicy and mildly oaky on an early exit-
ing finish. Guarachi Wine Partners. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $10
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
92 Domus Aurea 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Maipo Valley). Ripe berry and cassis aromas
are broadened by open-grain oak. This Cabernet is
big and tannic. Toasty chocolaty berry flavors with
a full complement of oaky support maintain a choc-
olaty essence on a finish that confirms how whole
and thorough this is. Drink this warm-vintage wine
through 2022. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $65
90 Calcu 2013 Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Colchagua Valley). A full package of
spice, tobacco and black-fruit aromas make for an
attractive opening. This feels solid and dense, with
grabby tannins that muscle out elegance. Lightly
stewed berry and plum aromas are backed by choc-
olate, cola and molasses notes on the finish. Drink
through 2022. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $25
90
page 99.
Santa Rita 2013 Reserva Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Maipo Valley). For full review see
abv: 13.5% Price: $20
90 Ventisquero 2013 Grey Glacier Single Block
Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Spicy
aromas of eucalyptus, juniper, asphalt, toasty oak
and berry fruits are textbook for the Maipo Val-
ley. This is tight and focused on the palate but a bit
rough. Rooty spice, chocolaty oak and herbal berry
flavors finish full and with tannic scratch. Drink
this well-executed Cab through 2021. San Francisco
Wine Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $20
89 Casas del Toqui 2012 Gran Toqui Cabernet
Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley). Reserved
on the nose, this Cabernet shows aromas of forest
floor, spice and root beer along with herbal berry
fruits. A blocky rubbery round palate houses a
mix of herbal berry and prune flavors, while this is
earthy and showing a bit of oxidation on the finish.
Winery Direct. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $28
89 Finca Patagonia 2013 Grand Reserve Caber-
net Sauvignon (Maule Valley). Ripe berry
aromas show a note of prune as well as mocha and
vanilla scents. Tight clampy tannins roughen up the
mouthfeel on this Maule Cabernet, while a fairly
heavy wood element blends with flavors of herbal
berry fruits and beef jerky. This is a full-volume
wine with a full-volume finish. Drink through 2020.
Halby Marketing. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $21
89 Viña Maipo 2013 Protegido Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Maipo Valley). Herbal berry aromas
come with oak-based toast and maple notes. This
feels pumped up and grabby, with rocky tannins
and high acidity. Blackberry and chocolate flavors
are forceful, while this Cabernet from a cool vintage
shows lasting oak and herbal notes on a wiry yet
bulky finish. Fetzer Vineyards. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $50
88 Casas del Toqui 2013 Terroir Selection Gran
Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley).
Smoky, gritty aromas of road tar are accented by
briar patch, cherry and cassis notes. This is a gener-
ous Cab that bumbles a bit on the palate. Flavors
of cassis and baked plum benefit from integrated
spice notes, while this offers tastes of chocolate and
herbal spice on the finish. Winery Direct. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $21
88 Don Tony Perez 2014 Gran Reserva Caber-
net Sauvignon (Curicó Valley). Pastry notes
blend with ripe berry aromas and hints of vanilla
and raisin. This is rubbery and tannic in feel, with
flavors of cherry, plum, cassis and herbal spice. On
the finish, an herbal flavor note is typical of Chilean
Cabernet. Don Tony Perez Corp. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $19
88 Maquis 2014 Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Colchagua Valley). Rubbery black-
fruit aromas come with a distinct and strong whiff
of bacon. In the mouth, this is full, angular and
highly tannic. A bacon-like flavor leads plum and
saucy tomato notes, while this is chunky and scrub-
bing on the finish, with a flavor of clove. Global
Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $20
88 Primus 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo
Valley). Woodsy earthy black-fruit, raisin
and spice-cake aromas are ripe. On the palate, this
is chewy, tannic and rubbing. Roasted plum and
berry flavors come with notes of toast, chocolate
and herbs. A dense grabby finish is solid but a touch
hot and rough. Huneeus Vintners. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $20
87 Château Los Boldos 2015 Grande Réserve
Cabernet Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley).
Lightly herbal berry fruit aromas are nothing you
haven’t seen before. In the mouth, this Cabernet is
choppy and showing bold acidity. Flavors of plum
and currant are racy and a touch spicy, while this is
scouring on the finish. Evaton, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $17
87 Concha y Toro 2015 Casillero del Diablo
Reserva Privada Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo
Valley). Aromas of olive, mushroom and berry fruits
are lightly herbal. This Cabernet feels scratchy,
abrupt and edgy, while herbal raspberry and plum
flavors finish solid and with a slight note of pickle.
Excelsior Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $18
87 Santa Rita 2015 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon
(Maipo Valley). Berry and plum aromas smell
a bit burnt, sort of like a burning field. A healthy
lively medium-bodied palate delivers smoky oaky
roasted berry and plum flavors in front of a lightly
spiced finish. Palm Bay International. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $13
CABERNET FRANC
89 Garage Wine Co. 2014 Lot #60 Pirque Vine-
yard Cabernet Franc (Maipo Valley). Initially
this smells baked, soupy and raisiny, although air-
ing lightens things up a bit. A rich syrupy palate
battles to support its own weight, while heavily
oaked baked berry flavors finish chocolaty, meaty
and with wayward oak. Drink through 2023. Elixir
Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 14.3% Price: $39
89 Maquis 2014 Gran Reserva Cabernet Franc
(Colchagua Valley). Raw woodsy spicy plum
and black-fruit aromas feed into a grabby lively pal-
ate with tough rubbery tannins. This tastes dark
and heavily oaked, with baked berry, spice and
chocolate flavors. A long toasty fully oaked finish
is rough-and-tumble in feel but thorough. Drink
through 2021. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $20
88 Garage Wine Co. 2014 Lot #62 La Higuera
Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Maule Valley).
Ripe aromas of raisin and prune include notes of
spice cake, vanilla and toast. This has a heavy rough
palate, driven by skins-based tannins. Flavors of
vanilla, baked black fruits and oak show notes of
maple, brown sugar and raisin on a bold churn-
ing finish that’s weighted down by pulling tannins.
Drink through 2023. Elixir Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $39
88 Loma Larga 2014 Unfiltered Cabernet Franc
(Casablanca Valley). Edgy slightly sharp
aromas of herbal berry fruits, olive and eucalyptus
set up a tight rough palate. Big-time herbal flavors
are oaky and taste of leafy black fruits and olive.
This powerful Cab Franc finishes with woody notes
of mint along with herbal berry and leftover euca-
lyptus nut flavors. Winery Direct. —M.S.
abv: 14.8% Price: $26
87 Lomas del Valle 2014 Coastal Cool Climate
Wine Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Casa-
blanca Valley). This Cab Franc bears a “cool cli-
mate” designation, and that’s confirmed on the
nose, which is highly herbal and green, with a blast
of eucalyptus and juniper. A raw grabby under-
developed palate tastes of leafy plum and berry
fruits, while the finish feels scratchy due to drawing
tannins. Winery Direct. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $21
87 Viña Tabalí 2013 Reserva Especial Cabernet
Franc (Limarí Valley). Reduced gritty foresty
aromas revolve around herbal berry and plum fruit.
This feels heavy, concentrated, tannic and slightly
collapsed. Dark blackened herbal berry and choco-
late flavors finish hard due to abrasive tannins and
enamel-peeling acidity. Biagio Cru & Estate Wines,
LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $19
AUSTRALIA
CHARDONNAY
94 Tolpuddle 2014 Chardonnay (Tasmania).
The Pinot Noir is no slouch either, but Tol-
puddle’s 2014 Chardonnay is super. Faint hints of
crème brûlée mark the nose, then ease into lime,
pineapple and white peach notes on the palate. It’s
only medium in weight, but with a silky feel and
a long mouthwatering finish. Drink now through
2022. Craft + Estate–The Winebow Group. Editors’
Choice. —J.C.
abv: 13% Price: $60
93 Moorooduc 2013 Robinson Chardonnay
(Mornington Peninsula). Despite its mod-
erate alcohol level, this comes across as medium to
full in body, with a velvet and custard texture that
coats the palate with flavors of grilled pineapple,
citrus and melon. It’s made in a concentrated, opu-
lent style, yet it finishes clean, with lingering notes
of citrus. Drink now through 2020. Little Peacock
Importers. —J.C.
abv: 12.5% Price: $55
92 Moorooduc 2013 The Moorooduc McIntyre
Chardonnay (Mornington Peninsula). With
a degree more alcohol than Moorooduc’s 2013
Robinson bottling, this is a riper, even more richly
textured example of Chardonnay. There’s a hint of
warmth on the finish as a result, but overall it keeps
a fine sense of balance. Toast, brown sugar and car-
WINEMAG.COM | 117
BUYINGGUIDE
amelized pineapple notes lead the way, backed by
hints of melon and citrus. Drink now. Little Peacock
Importers. —J.C.
abv: 13.5% Price: $65
92 Snake and Herring 2014 Karridale Corduroy
Chardonnay (Margaret River). This medium-
bodied Chardonnay is tightly wound. Scents of
grilled pineapple and custard offer glimpses of ripe
fruit and richness, held under wraps by intense cit-
rus flavors and a long tart finish. Drink now through
2020. Great Australian Wine Company. Editors’
Choice. —J.C.
abv: 13.5% Price: $33
91 Dalrymple 2014 Pipers River Cave Block Estate
Chardonnay (Tasmania). This manages to be
plush and rich in texture while keeping the alcohol
level reined in. Pineapple crème brûlée aromas are
backed up on the palate by flavors of peach and pine-
apple, finishing long and rich. Drink now. Negociants
USA, Inc. —J.C.
abv: 12.5% Price: $40
89 Hope Estate 2014 Mountain Wash Chardon-
nay (Hunter Valley). The Hunter’s almost
tropical climate shows in this wine’s aromas and fla-
vors of roasted cashews, grilled peaches and super-
ripe tangerines. It’s medium in body heading towards
full, but silky in feel and with mouthwatering grilled
notes on the finish. Drink now. Winesellers, Ltd. Best
Buy. —J.C.
abv: 13% Price: $14
87 Lambert 2014 A Thousand Words Chardonnay
(Barossa Valley). Medium to full in weight
and opulent in texture, this is a buttery creamy
wine that reflects its South Australian origin. Broad
and rich, it’s a throwback to a previous generation’s
style of Chardonnay. AUSA Pacific. —J.C.
abv: 12.5% Price: $18
87 McWilliam’s 2014 Cool Climate Chardonnay
(Australia). Slightly smoky grilled-toast aro-
mas lead into a plump medium-bodied wine filled
with flavors of yellow plum, tangerine and lime. It’s
not particularly zesty or linear in a true cool-cli-
mate fashion, but steers clear of ripe tropical fruit,
ending on a gentle note of citrus pith. Drink now.
Total Beverage Solution. —J.C.
abv: 13% Price: $16
PINOT NOIR
92 Kooyong 2015 Estate Pinot Noir (Mornington
Peninsula). The 2015 vintage in Mornington
yielded dark concentrated wines. This one is atypi-
cally (for the estate) full bodied and bold as a result,
with plum and black-cherry fruit and hints of mint,
sage and bay leaf. Long and a bit drying on the fin-
ish, it needs a couple of years to come into balance.
Drink 2020–2030. Negociants USA, Inc. Cellar
Selection. —J.C.
abv: 13% Price: $56
118 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
92 Moorooduc 2013 Robinson Pinot Noir (Morn-
ington Peninsula). This wine boasts an
expansive and complex lineup of aromas and fla-
vors, ranging from dusty earth and cola through
plummy fruit and hints of cinnamon and clove. It’s
plump and round in the mouth, with soft dusty tan-
nins to provide support. Drink now through 2025.
Little Peacock Importers. —J.C.
abv: 14% Price: $55
91 Moorooduc 2014 The Moorooduc McIntyre
Pinot Noir (Mornington Peninsula). A dif-
ferent vintage from the odd-numbered ones sur-
rounding it, 2014 yielded wines of less ripeness and
intensity. Despite that, this is a fine effort, offer-
ing overtones of green peppercorns, dried spices
and fresh herbs over tart pie-cherry and cranberry
fruit. It’s taut and focused, silky without being soft.
Drink 2020–2030. Little Peacock Importers. Cellar
Selection. —J.C.
abv: 14% Price: $65
RED BLENDS
93 Jasper Hill 2014 Emily’s Paddock Shiraz-
Cabernet Franc (Heathcote). To be fair, the
Cabernet Franc portion of this wine is only 3%, so
don’t expect to be bowled over by Loire-like florals or
leafiness. Rather, it’s a dense full-bodied wine, savory
in style, with edgings of charred meat, grilled plum,
mocha and a long cocoa-tinged finish. Drink 2020–
2030. Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selection. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $125
91 Angove 2014 Warboys Vineyard Shiraz-
Grenache (McLaren Vale). For full review see
page 93.
abv: 14% Price: $75
91 Mr. Riggs 2014 Three Corner Jack Cabernet-
Shiraz-Merlot (McLaren Vale). For the price,
this is a terrific value, offering ample weight and
texture combined with dark chocolaty fruit. Vanilla
notes on the nose help bring out the blackberry and
cassis flavors, while the chocolate lingers through
the long, supple finish. Drink now through 2020.
Wine Trees. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $23
90 Angove 2014 Family Crest Grenache-Shiraz-
Mourvèdre (McLaren Vale). For full review
see page 96.
abv: 14.5% Price: $21
89 Heartland 2014 Illicium Shiraz-Cabernet
Sauvignon (Langhorne Creek). This is the
first vintage for this wine, a 50-50 blend of Cab-
ernet and Shiraz matured in French and Ameri-
can oak hogsheads for a year. Vanilla notes frame
mixed-berry flavors, then pick up savory hints of
beef and espresso on the softly dusty finish. Drink
now through 2020. Vintus LLC. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $NA
89 Heartland 2014 Spice Trader Shiraz-Cabernet
Sauvignon (Langhorne Creek). Mixed ber-
ries, cracked pepper and baking spices mark the
nose of this red, a blend of 52% Shiraz with 48%
Cabernet. It’s full bodied and supple on the palate,
with spice notes accenting mulberry and cherry
leading into a softly dusty finish tinged with cocoa.
Drink now through 2020. Vintus LLC. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $17
89 Killibinbin 2013 Secrets (Langhorne Creek).
The not-so-secret blend is 64% Cabernet
Sauvignon, 24% Shiraz and 12% Malbec, yield-
ing a dark plummy wine with ample palate weight
and softly dusty tannins. Espresso and black olive
shadings give this a savory cast, making it more an
accompaniment to food than a standalone sipper.
Drink now through 2019. American Estates Wines,
Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14.5% Price: $15
88 Bleasdale 2014 The Broad-side (Langhorne
Creek). Shiraz (60%), Cabernet Sauvignon
(28%) and Malbec (12%) combine in this medium-
bodied silky-textured blend. Hints of eucalyptus lin-
ger around the margins, while the core of the wine
features raspberry and cherry fruit. It’s soft and
easy to drink, and made for near-term consumption.
Southern Starz, Inc. —J.C.
abv: 13.9% Price: $17
88 Brothers in Arms 2013 No. 6 Shiraz-Cabernet
(Langhorne Creek). Eighteen months in oak
has given this wine a vanilla-cedar sheen that blan-
kets the fruit from nose to finish. That said, there’s
plenty of dark plum and asphalt to support the oak,
and a ripe creamy texture that makes the wine easy
to drink. Drink now through 2019. American Estates
Wines, Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14.8% Price: $25
87 Bleasdale 2014 Langhorne Crossing (Lang-
horne Creek). This is a soft easy-drinking
blend of Cabernet, Shiraz, Malbec and Petit Verdot.
Cherry, vanilla and hints of mint mingle easily on
the nose and palate, which offers a medium body
and a slightly creamy texture. Drink it over the next
year or two. Southern Starz, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 13.9% Price: $12
PORTUGAL
WHITE WINES
VINHO VERDE
92 Casa do Valle 2015 Reserva Special Edition
(Vinho Verde). The blend of this rich wine is
dominated by Alvarinho, some of it from old vines.
With its wonderful ripe fruit and layers of apricot
and pear flavors, this is like no other Vinho Verde.
That is except for that zingy acidity that gives the
wine is refreshing fruitiness at the end. Drink now.
Massanois Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $40/1.5 L
90 Quinta da Raza 2016 Avesso-Alvarinho Col-
heita Seleccionada (Vinho Verde). A blend
of two of Vinho Verde’s richer grapes results in this
concentrated full-bodied wine. It is smooth and rich

92 Provam 2015 Vinha Antiga Escolha (Vinho

Verde). This is a rich impressively struc-
tured wine. It showcases the Alvarinho and brings
out its fruit and flavors. The subtle wood aging has
just enhanced the fruit. The wine is delicious and
is now just ready to drink, although it will be better
from early 2018. Luiz’s Grocery and Liquors. Editors’
Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $18
with fruit flavors ranging from citrus to apricot. The
acidity is cushioned by the ripe texture. Drink this
serious from late 2017. Vintage Wine Marketing.
Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $17
90 Quintas de Melgaço 2016 QM Lagar (Vinho
Verde). A crisp wine, fruity and with a good
sense of acidity and citrus fruits. Being made from
Alvarinho, it also has a richer background to give

92 Quinta de Soalheiro 2015 Reserva (Vinho

Verde). A rich wood-aged wine, this is dense
and creamy. With acidity and toast, ripe apples as
well as spice, the wine is made to age. Coming from
the Alvarinho heartland of Melgaço on Portugal’s
northern border, the wine has minerality and great
intensity. It will be good until at least 2020. Wine
In-Motion. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $35
this wine great intensity despite its light weight. It
is the sort of Alvarinho that needs to age, so drink
ideally from early 2018. M Imports, LLC. Editors’
Choice. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $23
88 Casa do Valle 2016 Vinho Verde. This is an
impressively complex Vinho Verde, obvi-
ously made for food. With its tangy acidity and
tense mineral texture, this blend of a range of

91 Casa da Torre 2013 Quinta do Cruzeiro Reserva

(Vinho Verde). Aged on its lees for 10 months
after harvest, the wine has a rich character that also
the regional grapes is structured and with a deli-
cious, refreshing aftertaste. Drink now. Massanois
Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
shows in the light gold color. There is a nutty toasty abv: 12.5% Price: $12
character to this wine that gives it extra complex-
ity and richness. Drink this impressive wine now
Tambu Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $22
88 J. Portugal Ramos 2016 Loureiro (Vinho
Verde). This is a classic dry Vinho Verde.
It has delicious fruit and crisp acidity giving lemon
flavors, a lively texture and a refreshing aftertaste.

91 Casa do Valle 2016 Grande Escolha (Vinho

Verde). From selected grapes, this partially
wood-aged wine is a rich take on Vinho Verde. It
has weight and a fine creamy texture. The acidity
and the orange zest flavors are filled out with ripe
apples and green plums with just a hint of toast.
Drink from late 2017. Massanois Imports. Editors’
Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $18
Drink this wine now. MundoVino–The Winebow
Group. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $10
88 Quinta da Raza 2016 Alvarinho-Trajadura
Grande Escolha (Vinho Verde). This is a
densely textured wine. It has a strong sense of min-
erality, while also having a fruitier side. Ripe acid-
ity and a crisp citrus flavor are allied to the warmer
apple and green-plum fruits. Drink this wine from

91 Quinta de Soalheiro 2016 Alvarinho (Vinho

Verde). From the northern Vinho Verde
region of Monçao and Melgaço, this finely textured
late 2017. Vintage Wine Marketing. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $17

wine is young, although already delicious. Its tex-

ture brings out the minerality from the granite soil,
giving the wine a zesty character. The fruit bursts
out of the glass: delicious citrus and sliced apples
and a great burst of acidity. Drink from late 2017.
Wine In-Motion. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $20
88 Quintas de Melgaço 2016 Torre de Menagem
Escolha Alvarinho-Trajadura (Vinho Verde).
A blend of two of Vinho Verde’s major grapes, the
wine has a rich content as well as fine textured min-
erality. There is plenty of acidity in this dry wine to
give it a crisp edge and a concentrated aftertaste.
Drink now. M Imports, LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $12

91 Quintas de Melgaço 2016 QM Alvarinho (Vinho

Verde). Ripe Alvarinho from its home turf in
the Minho Valley, this wine is immediately attrac-
tive while also having a more serious intent. There
is a crisp apple edge to this textured wine along with
a creamy character that makes it both smooth and
intense. Drink this from early 2018. M Imports, LLC.
Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $23
87 Quinta da Lixa 2016 Escolha (Vinho Verde).
This is a classic crisp apple-driven and fruity
wine. With delicious acidity and a lively aftertaste,
the wine is tangy and zesty and a great summer
drink. Grape2Glass. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 11.5% Price: $10
87 Quintas de Melgaço 2016 QM Terra Antiga
(Vinho Verde). For a Vinho Verde, this is
smooth. With the a creamy texture along with bread

WINEMAG.COM | 119
BUYINGGUIDE
fruit and lime flavors, the wine is soft. There is acid-
ity to give a lift perfectly judged to keep this attrac-
tively crisp at the end. Drink now. EcoValley. —R.V.
abv: 10.5% Price: $13
87 Wines & Winemakers 2016 Maria Bonita
(Vinho Verde). In praise in the Loureiro
grape, this dry wine has lively acidity while also
having a ripe full texture of apples and pink grape-
fruit. The wine is crisp and intensely fruity. Drink
now and until early 2018. C & P Wines, LLC. Best
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 10.5% Price: $12
86 Casca Wines 2016 Bote Branco (Vinho
Verde). There is a crisp spring in this wine—
light and bright with great acidity and a touch of
sweetness. It has a light prickle on the tongue that
adds to the liveliness of this attractive wine. Laurel
Importers. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 10.5% Price: $10
86 Caves Velhas NV Lagosta (Vinho Verde).
This is a fruity wine with a off-dry character
that is balanced by lime and lemon fruitiness. The
acidity and the tangy herbal character give the wine
an attractive bite. Drink now. LGL Imports LLC. Best
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 9% Price: $8
86 Enoport 2016 Vinhas Altas (Vinho Verde).
The wine is attractive with its ripe apple
flavors and shot of lemon. It is off dry, with a fruity
character that makes it a great apéritif wine. Drink
now. Republic National Distributing Co. —R.V.
abv: 10% Price: $NA
86 Quinta da Lixa 2016 Aromas das Castas
Grande Escolha (Vinho Verde). Half-and-half
Alvarinho and Trajadura, the wine is dry, crisp and
with just a touch of fizz. Grapefruit and lemon flavors
mingle with softer apples to give a bright and lively
wine that is just made for summer food. Drink now.
Grape2Glass. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $13
86 Quinta da Raza 2016 Raza Escolha (Vinho
Verde). With 50% of Arinto in the blend,
this is rounder and richer in taste than many Vinhos
Verdes. It does also have a crisp edge that comes from
the citrus tang. The general effect is bright while full
in the mouth from the delicious fruit. Drink now.
Free Run Wine Merchants. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 11.5% Price: $11
85 Casca Wines NV Cascas (Vinho Verde). A
blend of Loureiro, Arinto and Avesso, this
light and fruity wine has an edge of prickle along
with great acidity and citrus flavors. It is a great
summer food wine. Drink now. Laurel Importers.
Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 10.5% Price: $10
85 Enoport 2016 Faisão (Vinho Verde). Named
after the pheasant (Faisão), the wine is crisp
120 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
enough to be refreshing. It is medium sweet and
lightly textured with orange zest. Drink now. Wine-
sellers, Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 10% Price: $8
85 Quinta da Raza 2016 Dom Diogo Arinto
(Vinho Verde). There is a slight prickle that
gives a surprise lift to this dry wine. Along with that
is crisp fruit (lemon and apple flavors) and a refresh-
ing amount of acidity. Drink now. Vintage Wine Mar-
keting. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $15
85 Quinta das Arcas 2016 Arca Nova Branco
(Vinho Verde). This is a soft wine with its
creamy fruits assimilated into the tangy texture.
There is plenty of acidity to give this wine its cool
character as well as its citrus and green-apple flavors.
Drink now. Frontier Wine Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 10.5% Price: $9
85 Quintas de Melgaço 2016 Blue (Vinho Verde).
This blend of Trajadura and Alvarinho
comes from the far north of the Vinho Verde region.
The wine is cool and perfumed with apricot as well
as creamed pear flavors. Drink the wine now. Eco-
Valley. —R.V.
abv: 10.5% Price: $13
85 Vinihold 2016 Caiua a Noite (Vinho Verde).
Light, bright and fruity this is an easy-to-
drink off-dry wine for the summer. It is clean and
crisp, apples and pears set off by floral aromas. Drink
now. Prestige Beverage Group. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 9.5% Price: $9
DOURO
92 Secret Spot Wines 2014 Lacrau Old Vines (-
Douro). This rich wine is made from old
vines in a field blend. With its intense acidity and
ripe apple fruitiness, the wine is full and concen-
trated. The spice and toastiness are at peace with
the fruit, giving a balanced wine that will be ready
to drink from late 2017. Vintage Wine Marketing.
Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $25
91 Duorum 2015 Colheita (Douro). To judge by
the weight of the bottle, this wine is meant to
be taken seriously. In fact, its wood aging is the only
serious thing about this attractive, dense and fruity
wine. It is finely structured with yellow fruits just
supported by the toastiness. Drink the wine now.
MundoVino–The Winebow Group. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $20
90 Colinas do Douro 2015 Reserva Branco
(Douro). This blend of local Douro white
grapes with, unusually, Chenin Blanc, is delicious.
With its wood-aged touch and rich creamy texture,
the wine is generous and full. It has attractive acid-
ity as well, emphasizing the apple and grapefruit
fruit. The wine will be even better from 2018. Bera
International. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $29
90 Manuel Carvalho Martins 2016 Golpe Branco
(Douro). The wine is richly textured and
full of ripe fruits. Crisp acidity contrasts with the
warm yellow-fruit and ripe red-apple flavors. It is
already a refreshing crisp wine with a fine dense
texture. Drink from late 2017. Value Vines LLC. Best
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 90% Price: $15
88 Caves Velhas 2016 Encostas do Douro
(Douro). A smooth and ripe blend of Vio-
sinho, Rabigato and Gouvelo, the wine has attrac-
tive, smooth apple and pear flavors as well as tangy
acidity. With its light touch of acidity at the end, the
wine is delicious and ready to drink. Winesellers,
Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $9
88 Duorum 2016 Tons de Duorum (Douro). It
is probably the small soupçon of Moscatel
in the blend that gives this wine its irresistible per-
fumed character. That just brings out the fine acidity
and the crisp citrus flavors. It is a refreshing wine, as
aromatic at the end as at the beginning. Drink now.
MundoVino–The Winebow Group. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $10
88 Secret Spot Wines 2011 Lacrau Garrafeira
(Douro). A single vineyard field blend of old
vines has produced a ripe wine that has consider-
able ginger-spice wood flavors. It has an opulent
texture: very smooth and showing complete matu-
rity. The fresh fruit has become honey and dried
fruits with almonds and a touch of pepper. Drink
the wine now. Vintage Wine Marketing. —R.V.
abv: 14.5% Price: $54
87 Casca Wines 2016 Casas (Douro). Green
plums and attractive spice combine in this
easygoing wine. Its acidity and bright aftertaste
emphasize its dry character and its place at the table.
Drink now. Laurel Importers. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $10
87 Quinta do Noval 2015 Cedro do Noval Branco
(Douro). This is a lightly wood-aged wine, full
of fruit with just a touch of spice. Smoothly textured,
the wine is all the better for an extra year of aging
before release. That broadens the fruit while leaving
plenty of crispness and fine acidity. Drink now. Vin-
tus LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $23
87 Quinta dos Murças 2016 Assobio Branco
(Douro). This is a deliciously creamy wine
with light white fruits and refreshing acidity. With its
cool texture and minerality, it is crisp and zesty and
ready to drink. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $14
86 Casca Wines 2016 Cabo da Roca (Douro).
The wine is dominated by perfumed Mal-
vasia. That gives the wine its deliciously scented
apples and pears. The texture—lightly mineral—
adds a piquancy to this ready-to-drink wine. Laurel
Importers. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $10
LISBOA
flavors. Drink this attractive wine now. Aidil Wines/
Old World Import. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $16
87 DFJ Vinhos 2016 Paxis Arinto (Lisboa). This
is a finely tuned wine. On the one hand, it is
crisp and fruity. On the other, it has fine concentra-
tion, with a zingy mineral texture. The wine is ready
to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $10
yard. It is a fine wine, likely ready to drink from
2018. MundoVino–The Winebow Group. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $50
87 Falua 2016 Conde Vimioso Colheita Seleccio-
nada Branco (Tejo). This soft wine, a blend of
Arinto and Fernão Pires, is right in the creamy tex-
tured style of white wine. With its flavors of apple
and ripe Bartlett pear, the wine is smooth while also
crisply refreshing at the end. Drink now. Mundo-
Vino–The Winebow Group. Best Buy. —R.V.

90 Adega Mãe 2013 Terroir Branco (Lisboa).

This is a ripe wood-aged wine that has a 87 DFJ Vinhos 2016 Portada Winemaker’s Selec-
tion Branco (Lisboa). Apple flavors dominate
abv: 12.5% Price: $9

smooth rich texture. It is rounded with dominant

toastiness as well as perfumed fruit. The wine has
a cool edge that comes from the influence of the
Atlantic while bringing out a ripe apple and apri-
cot character. Drink this wine now. Aidil Wines/Old
World Import. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $50
this attractive blend of seven grapes, including three
aromatic varieties, that give the wine its perfumed
character. So although it is young and with enough
acidity, it is the hints of lychee and peppered pear
that add interest to the wine. Drink now. Tri-Vin
Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $10
86 Wines & Winemakers 2016 Companhia das
Lezirias Tyto Alba Sauvignon Blanc (Tejo). In
the spirit that Tejo can grow anything on its fertile
soil, this wine is a rounded tropical-fruit-flavored
Sauvignon Blanc. It has acidity enough as well as
a warm smooth character. It is certainly ready to
drink. Amara Wines & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $23

90
abv: 13%
DFJ Vinhos 2016 Grand’Arte Alvarinho (Lis-
boa). For full review see page 101. Best Buy.
Price: $13
85 Adega Mãe 2016 Pinta Negra (Lisboa). This
is an attractive fruity wine. With its soft tex-
ture, perfumed white fruits and balanced acidity, it is 85 Wines & Winemakers 2015 Companhia das
Lezirias Herdade de Catapereiro Escolha
the sort of wine that is ready for a warm day. Drink (Tejo). Fernão Pires with Sauvignon Blanc allows

89 DFJ Vinhos 2016 DFJ Alvarinho-Chardonnay

(Lisboa). The wine is rich, bringing together
two great white grapes. Both give the ripe smooth
now. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $9
the second grape’s herbal nature to shine. So it is
crisp, citrusy and with intense acidity. The wine has
a ripe feel with hints of tropical fruit at the end.
texture, while the Alvarinho also brings in its crisper
charms. Pear and green-plum flavors dominate this
intense and concentrated wine. Drink from late 2017.
85 DFJ Vinhos 2016 Casa do Lago Branco (Lis-
boa). This is a delicious and ripe-fruited
wine. Dominated by Fernão Pires, it has an apple-
Drink now. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $15

Luiz’s Grocery and Liquors. Best Buy. —R.V. puree texture: smooth and creamy. The wine has an
abv: 13% Price: $12 edge of light acidity at the end to give it a lift. Drink ALENTEJANO
now. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.

88 Adega Mãe 2016 Dory (Lisboa). With

Anselmo Mendes, the Vinho Verde mas-
ter, as consultant, this is a coastal Lisboa wine that
has plenty of the crisp texture that comes from the
Alvarinho in the blend. There is a perfumed touch
from Viognier, giving the wine crispness as well as
a rich background. Drink this wine from 2018. Aidil
Wines/Old World Import. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $12
abv: 12% Price: $10
89 Casa Agricola Alexandre Relvas 2016 Her-
dade de São Miguel Colheita Seleccionada
85 Sanguinhal 2016 Cerejeiras Branco (Lisboa).
This is a young and fruity wine that has the
rare Vital grape in the blend. It is crisp although
Branco (Alentejano). This is zesty textured blend
of Antão Vaz, Verdelho and Viognier. The wine is
fruity, with a rich fruit character giving ripe apples
with an attractive creaminess that gives the wine a and green plums as well as a tangy tangerine lift.
smooth texture. The acidity and red apples are bal- The wine has a subtle touch of wood to add com-
anced and make the wine ready to drink. MHW, Ltd. plexity. Drink the wine from early 2018. Quintes-
Best Buy. —R.V. sential Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $7 abv: 12.5% Price: $15

88 Adega Mãe 2015 Alvarinho (Lisboa). This

is a ripe take on the crisp Alvarinho. The
89 Casa Agricola Alexandre Relvas 2016 São
wine does have acidity but it also has hints of rich TEJO Miguel do Sul (Alentejano). This is a rich
tropical fruits. The texture is tangy while revealing a wine, a reminder of the warmth of the Alentejo.
full-bodied, perfumed and vibrant wine. Drink now.
Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $16
93 Wines & Winemakers 2015 Companhia das
Lezirias 1836 Grande Reserva Branco (Tejo).
This fine low-production wood-aged wine is almost
That’s reinforced by the cork label made from the
other major product of the region. It is perfumed,
smooth and with hints of apricots as well as brighter
Burgundian in its creamy richness. The toast is pear flavors. Drink now. Quintessential Wines. Best

88 Quinta de Sant’Ana 2015 Mafra Riesling (Lis-

boa). This Riesling, from vineyards close to
the Atlantic Ocean, boasts white fruit and mineral
nicely judged giving a wine that has just enough
acidity and has plenty of textured apple and grape-
fruit flavors. The wine is named after the year of the
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $11

characters. It’s a taut, textured wine, with intense

acidity and great fruitiness that is beginning to
mature. Drink now. Halby Marketing. Best Buy. —R.V.
creation of the Companhia das Lezirias. Specialty
Wines & More. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $77
88 Herdade do Esporão 2016 Duas Castas Rou-
peiro-Viosinho (Alentejano). The two grapes
here are more commonly found in the Douro. Here in
abv: 12.5% Price: $11 the south of Portugal, they give a softer character—

87 Adega Mãe 2015 Viosinho (Lisboa). Better

known in the Douro, the Viosinho grape
has found another home in the cool coastal Lisboa
region. The wine is crisp, tangy and with a great zing
of acidity. It is also fruity, full of apple and citrus
90 Falua 2015 Conde Vimioso Reserva Branco
(Tejo). This is a really rich manifestation
of Arinto. Its ripe pear and apricot flavors are laced
less mineral more ripe apple and pear fruitiness. The
aftertaste does keep the delicious wine bright and
lively. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V.
with wood fermentation and aging toastiness. Its abv: 13.5% Price: $14
dense texture comes from the grape selection, while
its richness comes from the sandy soil of the vine-

WINEMAG.COM | 121
BUYINGGUIDE

87 J. Portugal Ramos 2016 Pouca Roupa Branco

(Alentejano). This open, perfumed and
fruity wine is crisp and bright. It also has a warm,
apricot and ripe pear fruitiness that balances the
citrus acidity. It’s attractive now and ready to drink.
MundoVino–The Winebow Group. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $13
Rabo de Ovelha and Roupeiro grapes. They give the
wine both its crisp acidity and its ripe white-fruit
flavors. The acidity and the texture suggest the wine
RUEDA
should age for a few more months, so drink from
late 2017. MundoVino–The Winebow Group. Best
Buy. —R.V.
88 Pradorey 2010 PR3 Barricas Verdejo
(Rueda). This resiny, oaky Verdejo opens
with a bright gold luster and spiced pumpkin and
abv: 12.5% Price: $10 honeyed white fruit aromas. Its mature, lightly
oxidized stone fruit flavors are backed by lingering

87 Ribafreixo 2016 Pato Frio Selecção (Alen-

tejano). The wine, a blend of Antão Vaz,
Arinto and Siria, comes from Vidigueira, one of the
cooler regions of the Alentejo. That gives the wine
its crispness while also allowing it to have a ripe
yellow-fruit character. With its spice and final crisp
acidity, the wine is ready to drink. Dionysos Imports
Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $10
87 Ribafreixo 2015 Pato Frio Grand Escolha
Antão Vaz (Alentejano). This is a young
85 J. Portugal Ramos 2016 Loios Branco (Alen-
tejano). Named after a local order of monks
in the Middle Ages, the wine is rounded and easy.
toastiness. A full, textured finish closes it out. USA
Wine West. —M.S.
abv: 12.5% Price: $24
The gentle fruitiness gives the wine a zing of acidity.
That’s balanced by the open and smooth texture and
flavors of creamed apple. Drink now. MundoVino–
The Winebow Group. Best Buy. —R.V.
88 Protos 2016 Verdejo (Rueda). This wine’s
citrus, cactus and dusty yeast aromas make
for a solid entry. Its light, slightly dilute palate
abv: 12.5% Price: $10 delivers lime, orange peel and green herb flavors
into a steady, lasting finish. Monsieur Touton Selec-
tion Ltd. —M.S.
SPAIN
abv: 13% Price: $14

wood-aged wine with rich toast. While the toast
does smother the fruit at the moment, there are
enough crisp acidity and citrus flavors in the back-
ground to come through as the wine matures for
another year or two. Drink from 2018. Dionysos
Imports Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $20
RÍAS BAIXAS
87 Beronia 2016 Verdejo (Rueda). This standard
Verdejo is light on acidity, which is reflec-
89 Rectoral do Mar 2016 Albariño (Rías Baixas).
Dusty peach and mild citrus aromas set this
wine’s plump palate up with spritz. Despite the
tive of a hot year. Its citrus and green herb notes are
fresh and prickly while its melon and thyme flavors
lose intensity on the slightly bitter finish. Gonzalez
indistinct nature of its pulpy, salty apple and citrus Byass USA. —M.S.
flavors, it’s well made overall and on target. Drink abv: 13% Price: $14
now. Votto Vines Importing. —M.S.

87 Ribafreixo 2014 Pato Frio Grand Escolha

Antão Vaz (Alentejano). After aging in bot-
tle, this wood-aged wine has smoothed out to pro-
duce a rich wine with balanced fruit, acidity and
toastiness. The wine does have plenty of spice from
the wood, but it also has layers of citrus and pear-
fruit flavors. Drink this wine now. Dionysos Imports
Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $20
86 Herdade do Esporão 2016 Defesa Branco
(Alentejano). There is an attractive spici-
ness to this clean warm wine. White currants and
acidity add to the approachability of a wine that is
ready to drink. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $14
abv: 12.5% Price: $20
86 Pradorey 2011 PR3 Barricas Verdejo (Rueda).
Bold yellow-gold in color, this aged, barrel-
88 Condes de Albarei 2016 Albariño (Rías
Baixas). This wine’s classic Albariño aro-
mas of white flowers and stone fruit are simple
fermented Verdejo has predictably heavy aromas of
wood spice and resin, joined by hints of carrot juice
and apricot. It has solid palate with adequate acid-
and nice. It feels round and true but a touch flat. ity, showing oaky stone fruit flavors that finish with
Thompson grape, melon and ripe apple flavors hold a heavy dose of barrel spice. USA Wine West. —M.S.
steady on the finish. Drink now. Cordelina Wine abv: 12.5% Price: $24
Company. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $14
BIERZO
88 Palacio de Fefiñanes 2016 Albariño (Rías
Baixas). This wine’s dusty white fruit aro-
mas aren’t as focused as expected from Fefiñanes.
Its spritzy palate resembles that of a soda, offering
90 Losada 2014 Mencía (Bierzo). This wine’s
ripe berry aromas are tinged with schisty
minerality while showing restrained oaky scents of
ripe sweet melon and lime flavors. A bit of pyrazinic coconut and vanilla. Its saturated, firm palate fea-
grape skin character is noticeable on the finish. tures big tannins, tomato, plum, baking spice and

86 Herdade do Esporão 2016 Monte Velho

Branco (Alentejano). This is a generous
blend of Antão Vaz, Roupeiro and Perrum (aka
Pedro Ximenez). It is finely perfumed, full of juicy
white fruits that are shot through with lemon juice.
This is a wine to drink young and now. Aidil Wines/
Old World Import. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $12
Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $26
88 Pazo de Barrantes 2016 Albariño (Rías
Baixas). Neutral white-fruit aromas lead
the nose of this wine, while it’s round on the palate,
with just enough acidic cut to keep it from feeling
oily. Briny peach and nectarine flavors finish with
a mild salty note. Drink now. Maisons Marques &
coffee flavors and a dark, toasty finish. Classical
Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $20
89 Losada 2015 El Pájaro Rojo Mencía (Bierzo).
Rubbery, leathery berry aromas are edged
with woody accents. There’s intensity and depth to
the palate, which doles out rustic plum and berry
flavors. A moderately powerful but ripe finish con-

86 Herdade do Esporão 2016 V Verdelho (Alen-

tejano). The wine brings out a strongly
herbal, tangy character in this perfumed grape. With
spice and intense acidity, the wine is still young,
still with a closed character. This needs to be drunk
from late 2017 or even 2018. Aidil Wines/Old World
Import. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $14
Domaines USA. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $20
87 Con un Par 2016 Albariño (Rías Baixas).
This quiet Albariño comes from the Vicente
Gandia family of wines. It opens with short, pep-
pery aromas backed by a medium-bodied palate.
Peppery, slightly bitter flavors echo the nose, with
a hint of stone fruit to help it along. Drink now.
cludes this likable Mencía from a good year. Classi-
cal Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $16
88 Cuatro Pasos 2015 Pizarras de Otero Mencía
(Bierzo). This fresh Mencía’s bright red
fruit aromas exude rocky mineral tones. Raw, pop-
ping red plum and cherry flavors finish herbal and
tomato-like, with a bit of tannic bite. Drink now or

86 J. Portugal Ramos 2016 Vila Santa Branco

(Alentejano). This is a balanced blend of
Vicente Gandia USA. —M.S.
abv: 12.5% Price: $19

122 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

any time through 2021. Vinamericas Selections.
Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: NA Price: $13
87 Gancedo 2009 Xestal Mencía (Bierzo). The
2009 vintage was a hot one, so this wine’s
stewy, overripe aromas and deep, advanced color
aren’t shocking. In the mouth, it’s generous with
raisiny, ripe berry fruit, feeling undeniably heavy.
Classic Wines, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $28
NAVARRA
89 Artadi 2014 Garnacha (Navarra). This wine’s
earthy cherry and plum aromas come with a
hint of milk chocolate. The palate is edged with rub-
bery tannins, its savory, lightly salted plum flavors
growing jammier and more fig-like as it breathes. A
textbook fruit-forward Grenache. Folio Fine Wine
Partners. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $20
87 Castillo de Monjardin 2015 La Cantera Gar-
nacha (Navarra). This Garnacha’s leathery,
slightly underripe aromas are more savory than
bold and fruity. On the palate, it’s dry, with tomato-
like acidity, fresh and zesty roasted plum flavors and
a medicinal note that lingers on the finish. Mundo-
Vino–The Winebow Group. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $9
87 Jardín de Lúculo 2015 Los Bohemios Garnacha
(Navarra). This wine’s suntan lotion aromas
and mild volatility are a bit disconcerting. On the
palate, it’s full and dark, with abrasive, rubbery tan-
nins and jammy currant and black cherry flavors that
finish strong. Axial Wines USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $9
87 Príncipe de Viana 2015 Roble Garnacha
(Navarra). This standard Garnacha feels
jammy but a bit shapeless. Its raspberry and cassis
aromas are ripe and candied, with a floral note while
its raspberry and plum flavors finish with modest
spice. Classical Wines. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $11
CARIÑENA
90 Grandes Vinos y Viñedos 2013 Anayón (Cari-
ñena). This rock-solid Garnacha feels raw
and snappy. Its ripe cassis, prune and vanilla aro-
mas are heady but not overtly oaky. Lightly herbal
plum and black cherry flavors finish dry and tannic,
with a cool-vintage sense of freshness. Heidelberg
Distributors. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $35
89 Ignacio Marín 2012 Marín Old Vine Garnacha
(Cariñena). Ripe raisin, vanilla, tobacco
and cassis aromas are more than adequately oaked.
This feels grippy and bold, with an oak-based resiny
mouthfeel. Toasty blueberry and blackberry flavors
finish with a final note of oak and heat. Winery
Direct. —M.S.
abv: 13.5% Price: $18
87 Bodegas San Valero 2013 Particular Old Vine
Garnacha (Cariñena). Oak-heavy wood spice,
plum and leather aromas open this Garnacha. On
the palate, it’s syrupy and heavy, with sweet cassis
and blackberry flavors blanketed with oak, finishing
jammy and resiny. Multiple U.S. importers. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $18
TERRA ALTA
88 Celler Bàrbara Forés 2013 Negre (Terra Alta).
Ripe, slightly oxidized berry, raisin and
Band-Aid aromas feed a tannic, grippy palate in
this Garnacha, Syrah and Carignan blend. Its earthy
berry and plum flavors are full and ripe, with a
blocky, slightly medicinal finish. Aviva Vino. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $20
87 Las Colinas Del Ebro 2015 Syrah-Grenache
(Terra Alta). This blend of Syrah and Garna-
cha feels blocky and rubbery. Floral raspberry and
blueberry aromas come with baking spice notes,
particularly cinnamon. Ripe raspberry flavors finish
with a dash of chocolate and a touch of salt. Grapes
of Spain. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $12
86 Altavins 2015 Almodí (Terra Alta). This
scattershot red is made from the Garna-
cha Peluda grape. It’s airy on the nose, with cherry
and citrus peel aromas that are also slightly foxy.
There’s not a lot to the palate, aside from medicinal
red berry, salt and rubberband notes. It’s light in
body yet fiery and aggressive on the finish. Saranty
Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $17
PRIORAT
91 Vall Llach 2014 Idus (Priorat). This wine’s full
dark berry and desert herb aromas are typical
of Vall Llach. Its full-bodied, chunky palate deliv-
ers brandied black currant, black plum and baked
berry flavors, with a finish that’s strong with pep-
pery, herbal notes. Drink through 2022. Folio Fine
Wine Partners. —M.S.
abv: 15.5% Price: $50
90 Vall Llach 2014 Embruix (Priorat). Schist,
cola, cassis, berry and tobacco aroma cover
all the bases in this wine. It’s grippy and chewy but
complete. Dark, earthy mulled berry flavors precede
a tannic, pulpy finish with lasting plum and cassis
notes. Drink through 2021. Folio Fine Wine Part-
ners. —M.S.
abv: 15% Price: $27
88 Clos del Portal 2014 Negre de Negres (Prio-
rat). Latex and medicinal berry aromas-
come with cinnamon and savory spice notes in
this sinewy, full-bodied wine. Its grippy tannins
and prodding acidity frame slightly exotic and
savory blueberry, oak and graphite flavors, finish-
ing snappy, with a note of cured meat. Elixir Wine
Group. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $29
88 Tosalet 2014 Vinyes Velles (Priorat). The
fiery cherry and cassis aromas in this
snappy wine include a rubbery Band-Aid note.
Roasted tomato, plum and currant flavors are
framed by lip-smacking tannins and tomato-like
acidity, finishing with gritty intensity. Hammeken
Cellars USA. —M.S.
abv: 15% Price: $25
JUMILLA
88 Casa de la Ermita 2013 Lunático Monas-
trell (Jumilla). This Monastrell’s scratchy,
slightly soapy berry and cassis aromas are on the
sweet and ripe side. Its baked plum and berry fla-
vors are fleshy and lack focus, finishing with abra-
sive tannins. Aviva Vino. —M.S.
abv: 14.5% Price: $18
87 Bodegas Luzón 2013 Luzón Roble Monastrell
(Jumilla). This Monastrell’s cherry and cas-
sis aromas show a rough, oaky burn. It’s grippy and
a touch raw on the palate, with roasted berry and
plum flavors that linger into the finish. Aviva Vino.
Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $12
86 Barinas 2014 Selección Monastrell (Jumilla).
This opens with bold but faintly chemical
berry aromas. Its chunky palate features hard tan-
nins, tasting of roasted berries, oak and cured meat.
On the finish, it feels rubbery and a touch flat. Casa
Ventura Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $18
86 Bodegas Luzón 2014 Luzón (Jumilla). Cherry
and blackberry aromas come with spice and
cool note of cola in this Monatrell-Syrah blend. It’s
narrow and tannic, with black fruit and desert herb
flavors that finish dry and rubbery. Aviva Vino. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14% Price: $9
ALSACE
GEWURZTRAMINER
95 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2015 Clos Winds-
buhl Gewurztraminer (Alsace). A clean-
cut top note of citrus hovers above the otherwise
still-closed nose. The palate comes in with a con-
centrated richness that is as much sustained by
residual sweetness as it is by sheer force of fruit:
WINEMAG.COM | 123
BUYINGGUIDE
candied lemon and orange, juicy pear, ripe mirabelle
and yellow peach. There also is a zesty spicy pithi-
ness on the midpalate that frames and guides the
wine alongside invigorating lemon freshness that
lets this finish off dry despite the richness. This
is yet to unfold fully. Lovely now, sure to improve.
Drink 2020—2035. Kobrand. —A.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $80
93 Domaine Barmès-Buecher 2014 Rosenberg
Gewurztraminer (Alsace). The exquisitely
restrained nose has just a touch of honeysuckle
perfume—just a hint of that spicy headiness. These
aromas also color the fine, ripe and juicy peach fruit
on the palate that vies with fine citrus zestiness for
attention. Slight residual sweetness caresses the
fruit on the palate but this is very subtly done. The
finish is off dry, but utterly balanced. This is a very
beautiful, elegant and fresh Gewurztraminer. Drink
now through 2030. Petit Pois. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $27
93 Domaine Bott-Geyl 2014 Les Élements
Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Peach and honey
characterize the nose on this golden wine. These
flavors also play generously on the concentrated
rich midpalate where they are countered by aro-
matic orange and tangerine zestiness, creating a
lovely contrast and exciting richness. There is just
a touch of residual sweetness here to create some
drama, but it works to great effect. The wine is not
sweet enough for deserts but will work with Asian
spices or ripe cheeses. It’s simply wonderful and so
balanced. David Bowler Wine. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $26
93 Domaine Marcel Deiss 2014 Gewurztraminer
(Alsace). The freshness of ripe red apple,
meadow flowers and citrus hits the nose enticingly.
The palate flows and glows with these swirling,
intense and pure notes which are boosted even more
by residual sweetness. This richness is balanced by
refreshingly tart apple that dances on the palate.
This is exuberant, balanced and full of fruit, with an
off-dry finish. Becky Wasserman Selections. —A.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $NA
93 Domaine Ostertag 2015 Fronholz Gewurz-
traminer (Alsace). The nose is reticent but
reveals glimpses of passion fruit and peach. These
are intensified by honeyed richness on the concen-
trated palate. Flavors are luscious and round but
tangy notes of grapefruit zest give tension and ease
to this richness. The finish is all about freshness
despite being medium sweet. The peach lasts and
lasts. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. —A.K.
abv: 11% Price: $65
93 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2015 Roche Cal-
caire Gewurztraminer (Alsace). The nose is
subdued. Even the palate only gives up its secrets
slowly. Right now, there is a creamy richness
informed by peach and mirabelle plum. It is framed
by zesty lemon freshness that counters the palpable
warmth. The body is concentrated and lip smack-
124 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
ing, harmonious and moreish with an earthy, clean,
textured and off-dry finish. Kobrand. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $55
93 Leon Beyer 2010 Comtes d’Eguisheim
Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Restrained notes
of honeyed richness rise from the glass. The ripe
peach scent has floral overtones. The palate has a
fluid, almost oily feel but is dry. A wonderfully fine
phenolic edge helps to provide structure to this
evolving Gewurztraminer, as do aromatic notes of
orange zest. The harmonious balance of body and
weight, of concentration and elegance on this dry
wine are exemplary. The finish is long and elegant.
Gonzalez Byass USA. —A.K.
abv: 14% Price: $63
93 Trimbach 2014 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). For
full review see page 90.
abv: 13.5% Price: $27
92 Domaine Jean Sipp 2014 Cuvée Particulière
Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Beautifully evoca-
tive notes of apricot and peach compote appear
first. They are joined by blossom honey and a floral
touch that fully flourishes on the palate. They are
joined by fresh, lively and spicy pink grapefruit and
spice. This is full-on bursting with fruit flavors but
still manages to balance its exuberance with lovely,
illuminating freshness. Vin de Garde Wines. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $20
92 Paul Blanck 2012 Altenbourg Gewurztraminer
(Alsace). The heady scent of Damask rose
rises from the glass. The peach on the rich, soft and
mellow palate is bathed in rose scent too. Residual
sweetness boosts the perfumed aspect of this wine,
bringing lychee and peach into play as well. A lovely
phenolic edge provides structure and fluidity on
this textbook Gewurztraminer. The finish is off dry.
Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $30
92 Trimbach 2015 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). A
very shy nose just releases the most teasing
hint of peach. The palate is utterly restrained: peach
flavors are dry and brightened by lemon and have a
wonderful lightness of touch. The finish is dry, clean
and long. A very refreshing and clean-cut take on
Gewurztraminer. Esprit du Vin. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $27
91 Domaine Gérard Neumeyer 2015 Les Deux M
Gewurztraminer (Alsace). The nose is reti-
cent and shy but the palate is full of fresh lemon-
tinged fruit: pear and mirabelle plum get full fruity
rein. This is countered by pithy, pleasantly bitter
but subtle grapefruit zest. There is quite a bit of
concentration on the midpalate. It’s a quiet wine of
astonishing harmony and balance. The finish is dry.
Regal Wine Imports Inc. —A.K.
abv: 14% Price: $26
91 Domaine Schoffit 2015 Lieu-Dit Harth - Cuvée
Carolin Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Honey-
suckle richness and lemon freshness vie for atten-
tion on the nose. The palate comes in with lots of
concentration and very pithy, almost bitter texture
as well as residual sweetness. Together they create
balance and a very intense tangy finish and leave a
lasting impression. Weygandt-Metzler. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $24
91 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2015 Turckheim
Gewurztraminer (Alsace). The nose hints at
richly golden fruit: ripe peach and glowing mira-
belle. A floral tone of honeysuckle hovers. The palate
comes in with clean, earthy and lemon-concentrated
force, leaving the palate tingling with lemon zest and
pith. The finish is just about dry but utterly clean-
cut. All of this is more about texture than aroma.
Kobrand. —A.K.
abv: 14% Price: $26
91 Domaines Schlumberger 2015 Les Princes
Abbés Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Yellow
peach, honeysuckle and russet pear combine in a
very inviting nose. The palate amalgamates these
flavors even more, bathing them in tangy but sightly
sweet orange notes. The result is a bullet of flavor
and freshness, balanced, friendly and very moreish.
The finish is off dry and wonderfully clean and spicy.
Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $23
90 Cave de Ribeauvillé 2016 Collection Gewurz-
traminer (Alsace). The nose is rather sub-
dued. The palate comes in with the ripe freshness of
orange flesh and peel. There is a lovely zesty pleas-
antly bitter frame that lends structure and acts as a
counterweight to the slight fruit sweetness. The off-
dry palate is poised and balanced, with an almost
dry finish. This is restrained and elegant. Golden
Ram Imports. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $24
90 Domaine Charles Frey 2016 Collines de Gra-
nit Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Ripe aromatic
peach notes dominate the nose. The palate brings
this out in much fuller force, helped along by a dollop
of residual sweetness and balanced by a pleasantly
bitter zesty phenolic edge. The off-dry flavors are
generous while the body is balanced and rounded.
Good Company Wines. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $NA
90 Domaine Fernand Engel 2015 Bergheim
Gewurztraminer (Alsace). The nose gives
little away. The palate, however, is full-fruited and
zesty: yellow mirabelle plum and juicy peach are
intensified by lemon freshness. A touch of residual
sweetness makes the flavors even juicier and fuller.
This is off dry, intensely fruity but very balanced
and refreshing. Grape Expectations (CA). —A.K.
abv: 14% Price: $28
90 Domaine Fernand Engel 2015 Cuvée Engel
Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Lovely red apple,
ripe pear and mirabelle plum create an appetizing
nose. These fruit notes are even more intense on
the palate, boosted by a dollop of residual sweet-
ness and framed by tangy textured phenolics. This
is refreshing, intense and moreish. Grape Expecta-
tions (CA). —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $22
90 Domaine G. Metz 2015 Vieilles Vignes
Gewurztraminer (Alsace). For full review
see page 97.
abv: NA Price: $25
90 Domaine G. Metz 2014 Cuvée Mégane
Gewurztraminer (Alsace). A touch of nar-
cissus precedes the full-fruited notes of peach on
the nose. The palate has the same generous peach
but also a slightly bitter tangy edge that gives
structure to the rich wine. This is intense, rich and
medium sweet, with a lasting rich finish. Chemin
Des Vins. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $30
90 Domaine Jean Sipp 2015 Cuvée Carole
Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Honey, honey-
suckle and peach on the nose create a most inviting
aroma. These flavors are even more clearly apparent
on the medium-dry palate where they are bright-
ened and intensified by lemon freshness. This is
intense and fluid, rounded and soft, and yet it man-
ages to remain fresh and appetizing. Drink soon. Vin
de Garde Wines. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $33
90 Domaine Pfister 2015 Tradition Gewurztra-
miner (Alsace). The nose is a little subdued.
The palate comes in with a creamy poised richness
that holds ripe peach, rose petal and grapefruit zest.
There is a pleasant streak of bitterness that chan-
nels the richness of the concentrated fruit. The
finish is just off dry, clean and zesty. Vintage ’59
Imports. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $33
90 Domaine Robert Klingenfus 2016 Gewurz-
traminer (Alsace). Perfumed notes of hon-
eysuckle and rose hit the nose immediately. The
palate is similarly scented but also has juicy ripe
peach fruit. The richness is countered by subtle
orange peel zestiness. This is full of rounded aro-
matic florals and fruit. The finish is off dry. Euro-
pean Wine Imports. —A.K.
abv: 12% Price: $17
90 Domaine Sipp-Mack 2015 Vieilles Vignes
Gewurztraminer (Alsace). A touch of pas-
sion fruit clings to the peachy aromas on the nose.
The palate is full of generously rounded peach and
the mouthfeel is almost creamy. A touch of residual
sugar favors the peach. A hint of rose petal perfumes
the fresh round body. The finish is off dry and long.
Franck’s Signature Wines. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $32
90 Frédéric Mallo 2015 Cuvée Saint-Jacques
Gewurztraminer (Alsace). A touch of pas-
sion fruit plays around the peach aromas on the
nose. There is a lovely touch of smoke, too. The pal-
ate is off dry and the fruit is made richer, riper and
more intense by the residual sweetness. Zesty lem-
ony freshness acts as counterpoint. This is lovely,
compact and full of fruit. USA Wine Imports. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $22
90 Gustave Lorentz 2015 Réserve Gewurztra-
miner (Alsace). Peach, earth and lemon zest
unite on nose and palate. The body is concentrated
and warm, the fruit is made more intense with slight
residual sweetness but zesty lemon freshness frames it
all with tangy brightness. The finish is clean, medium
sweet but refreshing. Quintessential Wines. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $25
90 Henri Schoenheitz 2015 Gewurztraminer
(Alsace). A touch of honeysuckle meets
ripe, juicy pear on the nose. The palate adds a touch
of residual sweetness to boost the fruit flavors, as
well as a pithy, slightly bitter texture to provide a
frame. Everything is shot through with bright, lively
lemon freshness, which is exactly what makes the
wine so moreish in its medium-sweet way. Crystal-
line Wines. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $20
90 Jean-Baptiste Adam 2016 Les Natures
Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Honey, peach and
honeysuckle create a very rich aromatic nose. The
medium-sweet palate amplifies them all and pres-
ents them on an almost oily, rich and fluid body. A
bitter phenolic edge provides backbone. The fin-
ish is full of peach, zest and freshness. The Sorting
Table. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $25
90 Paul Blanck 2016 Gewurztraminer (Alsace).
Ripe peach has a touch of jasmine and rose
on the nose. The palate has a zesty, slightly bitter
but enlivening freshness. The palate is generous but
poised with a harmonious balance. This is off dry
but subtle. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $18
90 Ruhlmann 2015 Vieilles Vignes Gewurztra-
miner (Alsace). Peach and grapefruit pith,
earth and lemon mix on nose and palate to create
a deep-fruited wine with midpalate concentration.
The body is fresh and rich and just dry, bordered
and contained by that enticing grapefruit zestiness.
The finish is clean. Fine Terroirs LLC. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $18
89 Domaine G. Metz 2015 Cuvée Melody Gewurz-
traminer (Alsace). The nose is rich with
Red Delicious apple notes. The palate adds lemon
freshness and a tangy, slightly bitter but appetizing
streak of zestiness. The finish is restrained, just dry
and clean. Chemin Des Vins. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $23
89 Hubert Meyer 2016 Gewurztraminer
(Alsace). Peach and orange zest on the nose
have an earthy touch but also a perfumed lift. The
palate presents the same orange and peach flavors
that are countered by a slightly bitter but pleasant
phenolic frame that well suits the off-dry finish.
H. Mercer Wine & Spirit Imports. Best Buy. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $14
89 Jean-Marc Bernhard 2016 Vieilles Vignes
Gewurztraminer (Alsace). A very rich nose
suggests juicy yellow peach, orange zest and ripe
mirabelle plums. The palate amplifies this on the
one hand with a touch of residual sweetness; on the
other it curbs and counters with freshness and a
slightly bitter phenolic edge to create a balance. This
is harmonious and rounded, generous and fruity
with an off-dry finish. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $19
89 Joseph Cattin 2016 Gewurztraminer
(Alsace). Soft notes of honeysuckle appear
on the nose. The palate has the same perfumed
quality, with peach and juicy orange fruit. There is
zesty tangy freshness to counter the fruit and create
a harmonious balance. The honeysuckle returns on
the finish. Dionysos Imports Inc. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $21
89 La Cave des Vignerons de Pfaffenheim 2016
Tradition Gewurztraminer (Alsace). The
nose is restrained, but the palate hold some lovely
peach fruit, edged with tangy citrus pith. It has a
pleasantly light but rounded body and a balanced
off-dry finish that majors in lemon freshness. Serge
Doré Selections. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $22
89 Robert Karcher et Fils 2015 Harth Gewurztra-
miner (Alsace). A lovely touch of smoke and
earth plays around the honeysuckle and peach notes.
The palate adds even more stone fruit: apricot and
juicy mirabelle. They are boosted by some residual
sweetness that makes for an easy, friendly and fluid
palate. The finish is off dry, peachy and floral. Krewe
du Bizou Wines. —A.K.
abv: 12% Price: $24
89 Willm 2016 Cuvée Emile Willm Gewurztra-
miner (Alsace). The nose is restrained but
has zesty lemon hints. The palate also presents
ample lemon and orange zest. This counters the
fruity richness of the peach. A bitter phenolic streak
prevents this from becoming too rich and balances
the ample fruit on the off-dry finish. Monsieur Tou-
ton Selection Ltd. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $18
89 Willm 2016 Réserve Gewurztraminer
(Alsace). Peach and honeysuckle send very
subtle evocative aromas on the nose. On the pal-
ate, real spice becomes apparent: pepper as well as
grapefruit. The full fruit approach on the medium-
sweet palate fully benefits from that grapefruit
edge: this is balanced, refreshing and moreish.
Drink while aromas are at their peak. Monsieur
Touton Selection Ltd. —A.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $15
WINEMAG.COM | 125
BUYINGGUIDE

89 Wolfberger 2016 Gewurztraminer (Alsace).

Gentle notes of rose and grapefruit peel on
the nose also have a touch of honey. The palate is
full of juicy rounded peach aromas—very fruity, very
easy. A light dollop of sweetness makes for an off-
dry but very balanced and fruity finish. Drink while
aromas are at their peak. Kysela Père et Fils. —A.K.
abv: 12.5% Price: $19
and with a tangy, zesty texture. The aftertaste keeps
that attractive perfumed character. Kappy’s Import-
ing and Distributing Co. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $13
91 Château de Rayne Vigneau 2015 Le Sec de
Rayne Vigneau (Bordeaux Blanc). Produced
at the classed-growth Sauternes estate, this 100%
Sauvignon Blanc comes from a 17-acre parcel. It has
90 Médeville Collection 2016 8 Generation
Blanc (Bordeaux Blanc). The name cel-
ebrates eight generations of Médeville family wine-
making. There is a spicy side to this ripe, fruity
wine, which conveys nuts, almonds and nutmeg
as well as citrus fruitiness. Crisp at the end, it is a
full wine with good potential. Drink from late 2017.
Langdon Shiverick. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $42

88 Allimant-Laugner 2016 Gewurztraminer

(Alsace). Honeyed peach and rose petal
notes dominate nose and palate. The rose perfume
seems even more amplified on the rounded, off-dry
and generous palate. Drink this while aromas are at
their very peak. Vigneron Imports. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $19
plenty of herbal flavors while also having a riper,
yellow-fruit tinge. Lightly oaked, the wine is ripe
from this warm vintage and ready to drink. Aquita-
ine Wine Company. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $26
91 Château Les Combes 2016 Bordeaux Blanc.
Frédéric Borderie brings his winemaking
90 Vignobles Despagne 2016 Girolate (Bor-
deaux Blanc). The merest hint of toast
leaves this wine dominated by the delicious fruiti-
ness. It is rich and concentrated, showing the ripe
vintage. A delicious burst of acidity provides bal-
ance at the end. Wine Warehouse Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $60

88 Cave du Roi Dagobert 2016 Découverte

Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Ripe orange and
plump stone fruits rise from the glass while subtle
rose scents hover. The palate is fresh. There is enough
acidity and a slightly bitter phenolic edge to frame
the peach and orange fruit that is augmented by a
little residual sweetness. The finish is off dry. Drink
while flavors are fresh. Grapes and Greens. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $22
experience from Australia and Napa Valley back to
the family property and this crisp and perfumed
wine. It has great spiciness balanced by crisp green
and white stone fruits. The wine could do with a few
more months, so drink from late 2017. David Bowler
Wine. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $15
91 Maison Bouey 2016 Pierre Angulaire (Bor-
deaux Blanc). The name means cornerstone
89 Augey 2016 Bordeaux Blanc. This wine from
Caves de Rauzan is ripe, with a strongly flo-
ral and aromatic character. It also has good acidity
and richness. It is on the cusp of being delicious, so
wait until late summer 2017. United States Distilled
Products. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $13
89 Château Jean Faux 2016 Bordeaux Blanc.

88 Domaine de la Tour Blanche 2015 Gewurz-

traminer (Alsace). The nose boasts the pure
perfume of Damask rose which runs right through
with floral intensity on the off-dry palate. Some
peach and lychee join but the rose florals are the chief
aromatic. The palate is fresh and balanced, leaving a
very perfumed aftertaste. Bird Rock Imports. —A.K.
abv: 13.5% Price: $27
and that is what Maison Bouey delivers in this ripe,
structured wine. It has good balance between the
wood aging and the rich yellow fruits. A touch of
Along with a slightly oxidative character,
this perfumed wine has a ripe yellow fruit and spice
edge. It is already delicious to drink. Multiple U.S.
toast gives concentration and density. This full- importers. —R.V.
bodied wine will age. Drink from 2018. Village Wine abv: 12.5% Price: $30
Import. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $15
89 Château Petit Moulin 2016 Bordeaux Blanc.
Tight and crisply fruity, this wine comes

88 Joseph Fritsch 2016 Gewurztraminer

(Alsace). Subtle notes of peach rise from
the glass and gain full form on the palate where the
flavors are boosted by gentle sweetness. The palate
is round, fresh and off dry. Drink while aromas are
at their peak. Margaux & Company. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $16
90 Château Lestruelle 2016 Bordeaux Blanc.
Still very young, this is a Maison Bouey
wine with good potential. It offers hints of the ripe
yellow fruits and richness that will come as it devel-
ops. The touch of perfumed spice means it is also
a wine to savor as an apéritif. Hendry Premium
Imports, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $15
from a property in the Vignobles Signé family since
1649. With a strong herbal character, it is refresh-
ing and already delicious, bright and lively. Plenty of
acidity keeps this wine packed with forward fruit.
Drink now. Margaux & Company. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $12
89 Château Platon 2016 Bordeaux Blanc. From
a four-acre mostly Sauvignon Blanc vine-

88 Lucien Albrecht 2016 Réserve Gewurztra-

miner (Alsace). For full review see page 100.
abv: 12.5% Price: $18
90 Château Tour de Mirambeau 2016 Réserve
(Bordeaux Blanc). A light touch of toasti-
ness gives this Despagne family wine extra richness.
yard, Jean-Francois Meynard has produced a light,
bright and fruity wine. Crisp and mineral driven, it
comes with a touch of spice and almonds that adds
It offers spice as well as plenty of crisp green and cit- interest and complexity to this already-complete

88 Pierre Sparr 2015 Grande Réserve Gewurztra-

miner (Alsace). A restrained touch of peach
mingles with an appealing bitterness on the nose.
rus fruits. The two elements balance and will allow
this wine to age well. Drink from late 2017 or even
early 2018. Ideal Wine and Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V.
wine. Drink now. Wine Traditions. —R.V.
abv: 14% Price: $16

The palate adds a bright lemon freshness and a pithy

texture. The finish is clean, just dry and appetizing.
abv: 12% Price: $15
89 Château Tour de Mirambeau 2016 Cuvée Pas-
sion (Bordeaux Blanc). This wine has a good
Wilson Daniels Ltd. —A.K.
abv: 13% Price: $20 90
abv: 12%
Château Toutigeac 2016 Bordeaux Blanc.
For full review see page 101. Best Buy.
Price: $15
balance between spice and ripe yellow and apple
fruits. The taut, mineral texture will allow it to age
well. Touches of toast support the rich fruits. Drink
from late 2017. Ideal Wine and Spirits. —R.V.
BORDEAUX
90 Château Vircoulon 2016 Bordeaux Blanc.
This is a ripe and soft blend of Sauvignon
abv: 13.5% Price: $29

BORDEAUX BLANC Blanc and Sémillon. Well balanced, it has rich, spicy
fruit lifted by lemon and apple flavors and by the 88 Barton & Guestier 2016 Passeport Bordeaux
Blanc by Laurent Prada Sauvignon Blanc-

91 Château Bois Malot 2016 Bordeaux Blanc.

This Meynard family wine is ripe and soft
with a smoothly creamy texture and a perfumed
final acidity. It’s ready to drink now. Vinovia Wine
Group. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $10
Sémillon (Bordeaux Blanc). For full review see page
101. Best Buy.
abv: 12.5% Price: $10
backdrop. It is ready to drink, full of good acidity

126 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

88 Château de la Rivière 2016 Bordeaux Blanc.
This wine is already ripe and rounded. It
has good balance between the rich apple and pear
fruits and acidity, along with an attractive mineral
texture. Drink this fruity wine now. Lower Falls
Wine Co. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $15
88 Château de Lussac 2016 Bordeaux Blanc.
This wine is tight and closed at this stage,
although it has great potential. The fruit is lively
and crisp, just waiting to burst out with citrus and
sliced apple fruitiness. Wait until late 2017. B&Bs
French Wine Club. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $15
88 Château de Marsan 2016 Bordeaux Blanc.
This wine is tight, crisp with citrus flavors
and intense acidity. It is developing into a refresh-
ing, broader wine that will have a riper character.
Wait until late 2017. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $12
88 Château Haut Mouleyre 2016 Bordeaux
Blanc. This delicious wine from old Sémil-
lon vines offers a hint of nuts and spice as well as
crisp, clean fruit. It is lively with acidity as well as
having a richer side. The wine will be just right from
the end of 2017. Total Wine & More. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $17
88 Château la Freynelle 2016 Bordeaux Blanc.
Aromatic and floral, this wine has crisp
fruitiness and lively acidity that support the deli-
cious spicy character. Drink now. Aquitaine Wine
Company. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $14
88 Château Lamothe de Haux 2016 Bordeaux
Blanc. This wine is tight, crisp with citrus
flavors and intense acidity. It is developing into a
refreshing, broader wine that will convey a riper
character. Just wait until late 2017. Langdon Shiv-
erick. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $15
88 Château Le Giron 2016 Bordeaux Blanc.
Offering both herbal acidity and delicious
spiciness, this wine is balanced, grassy and also
ripe. It is a fruity, modern style, ready to drink now.
Wine Warehouse Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $12
88 Château Maison Noble 2016 Cuvée Maurice
(Bordeaux Blanc). The 250-year history of
the Moreau family is the story of wine: barrel-mak-
ers, winery suppliers, viticulturists, winemakers and
négociants. The company is now directed by Frédéric
Marque. Rich fruit and nutmeg flavors gives this
wood-aged wine its ripe and fruity character. It offers
zesty lemon and a delicious aftertaste of spiced apple
and wood. Drink now. C’est Vin LLC. —R.V.
abv: 14% Price: $23
88 Château Merlet 2016 Bordeaux Blanc. Light,
bright and with lively acidity, this is already
a juicy, delicious wine. It offers good fruitiness, with
pink grapefruit flavors and a tangy, zesty aftertaste.
Drink now. Michael Corso Selections. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 11.5% Price: $10
88 Château Mission Saint Vincent 2016 Bor-
deaux Blanc. This crisp, clean wine has both
fruit and acidity in just the right proportions. With
lively acidity and hint of herbal and citrus flavors, it
is a fine apéritif style. The aftertaste continues this
bright and lively character. Max Beverage. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $15
88 Château Pilet 2016 Bordeaux Blanc. This
wine is spicy, ripe and ready to drink. Ripe
white stone fruits are laced with citrus acidity to
give a lively wine with good fruit intensity. Drink
this wine now for instant pleasure. Diva Wine USA.
Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $12
88 Château Roc de Minvielle 2016 Bordeaux
Blanc. Tight while fruity, this is going to
be an attractive wine from the Gadras family, who
have owned the property since the early 19th cen-
tury. With its layers of citrus acidity and richer
pear and apples, it is packed with fruit that’s given
added interest by spice. Drink from late 2017. LVC
Las Vegas Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $15
88 Château Roques Mauriac 2016 Bordeaux
Blanc. This lively, citrus-driven wine has
tight acidity over bright grapefruit and lime, giv-
ing refreshing crispness. Immediately attractive, it
offers an aftertaste that shines with lemon juice.
Total Wine & More. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $15
88 Château Terres Douces 2016 Bordeaux Blanc.
This is a crisp wine, full of acidity. It holds
the potential of crisp green and citrus fruits that are
developing. A nutty edge contrasts with the tense
acidity. Drink from late 2017. Michael Corso Selec-
tions. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 11.5% Price: $10
88 Château Timberlay 2016 Bordeaux Blanc.
Richly fruity, this is a wine in progress. Its
acidity and texture are still coming together to give
a crisp wine with ripe fruit. Lemon and lime flavors
will add a refreshing background. Drink from late
2017. Terlato Wines International. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $17
88 Cheval Quancard 2016 Réserve Sauvignon-
Sémillon (Bordeaux Blanc). This is a ripe,
fruity wine. The herbal side of the blend is filled out
with more tropical, apricot and mango flavors that
give the wine a perfumed character. It is ripe and
crisp, while rounded. Drink from late 2017. Cheval
Quancard. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $15
88 Clarendelle 2016 Bordeaux Blanc. This wine
is ripe and full of the fruitiness of the vintage,
the citrus and the gooseberry flavors spiced by the
fresher acidity. It will mature further, so wait to drink
until late 2017. Southern Wine and Spirits. —R.V.
abv: NA Price: $20
88 Maison Bertrand Ravache 2016 Les Hauts
de la Gaffelière (Bordeaux Blanc). From his
Saint-Émilion base, Bertrand Ravache has created
two brands: Leo (for Comte Léo de Malet Roquefort)
and Les Hauts. This wine is all fruit, ripe and with
a mineral edge. It has lots of acidity, lively fruiti-
ness and hints of spice. Drink this fruity wine now.
Cognac One, LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $13
88 Maison Bouey 2016 Maison Blanche (Bor-
deaux Blanc). Touched by spice from wood
aging, this is a balanced wine. Its toastiness sup-
ports the ripe peach and apricot fruits, lifted by
acidity. It will be a good wine; drink from 2018.
Hendry Premium Imports, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $15
87 Cap Royal 2016 Bordeaux Blanc. There is a
touch of toastiness to this otherwise fruity
wine, produced by Jean-René Matignon of Châ-
teau Pichon Baron in Pauillac. It has class as well
as attractive tangy acidity and a refreshing citrus
backdrop. Drink now. Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $15
87 Château Buisson-Redon 2016 Bordeaux
Blanc. This refreshing wine from the Seze
family of Fronsac is light, crisp and packed with
fruit. Crisp with citrus flavors it is ready to drink
now. Pinnacle International. —R.V.
abv: 13% Price: $13
87 Château d’Haurets 2016 Bordeaux Blanc.
With big, fruity flavors, this is a ripe while
also crisp wine. Delicious green and citrus fruits
give plenty of acidity along with a sense of richness.
Drink this wine now. La Ville Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $14
87 Château de l’Aubrade 2016 Bordeaux Blanc.
Crisp and taut, this Lobre family wine is
on a tight rope. It balances between intense citrus
acidity and riper apricot and pear favors. It will be
better from late 2017. Grape Expectations (CA). Best
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $12
87 Château Haut-Rian 2016 Bordeaux Blanc.
Owner Michel Dietrich takes the vegan route
with no animal derivatives in fining the wine. The
wine is taut and tight, with a steely texture that
needs to soften. All its fruit is there, muted by the
herbal edge and nervy texture. Drink from late 2017.
VOS Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $16
WINEMAG.COM | 127
BUYINGGUIDE
87 Château l’Oiseau 2016 Bordeaux Blanc.
Strongly herbal, this Sauvignon Blanc-
dominated wine is fruity and crisp, with a good
depth of flavor. Refreshing acidity adds a tight edge
to this young wine. Drink from late 2017. Saranty
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12% Price: $16
87 Château le Grand Verdus 2016 Bordeaux
Blanc. This concentrated, herbal wine has a
good balance between the great fruit and the tangy,
zesty texture. With its fruity character and spicy
aftertaste, it’s already a pleasure to drink. Wine
Without Borders. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $15
87 Château Mont-Pérat 2016 Bordeaux Blanc.
Crisp and fruity, this wine is full of apple and
citrus flavors. It also features a touch of wood and
spice, with a creamy aftertaste from the light wood
aging. Drink now. Heidelberg Distribution. —R.V.
abv: 13.5% Price: $30
87 Château Peneau 2016 II Sauvignons (Bor-
deaux Blanc). This women-owned château
above Cadillac produced a crisp wine, tight and
nervy. With lively acidity, it focuses on the citrus
side of life, finishing with a mineral edge. It will
drink best from the end of 2017. Boisset Collection.
Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $12
87 Château Roc Meynard 2016 Bordeaux Blanc.
Crisp and with a strongly mineral character,
this is a young, textured wine. As it softens and gets
the ripeness of the vintage, it will become smooth
and rich. Drink from late 2017. LefGroup, LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $20
87 Les Parcelles de Stéphane Derenoncourt 2016
Bordeaux Blanc. This crisp, balanced wine
has lively citrus fruits, light spiciness and some
tight, mineral acidity. Drink now. Kappy’s Import-
ing and Distributing Co. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5% Price: $12
87 Trocard 2016 Bordeaux Blanc. Crisp and
with good acidity, this is a light, fruity and
forward wine. Lively, balanced and with plenty of
taut fruitiness at the end, it is very ready to drink.
Spec’s. —R.V.
abv: NA Price: $15
GERMANY
RIESLING SPÄTLESE
95 Egon Müller 2015 Scharzhofberger Riesling
Spätlese (Mosel). Racy and deeply mineral,
yet buoyantly fruity, this wine embodies the best
from the Mosel’s fantastic 2015 vintage. It’s lavishly
forward in ripe yellow peach, apricot and honeydew
flavors, yet bracingly high in acidity. Satisfyingly
rich in extract yet feather light, it finishes long,
128 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
with shards of slate and crushed mineral. Stun-
ning already, it should continue to improve through
2030, likely beyond. Frederick Wildman & Sons,
Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 8% Price: $175
94 Robert Weil 2015 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Ries-
ling Spätlese (Rheingau). Perfumed notes of
honey and tangerine are accented by savory accents
of pollen on the nose of this complex spätlese.
Concentrated stone fruit and pineapple flavors fall
lusciously on the palate, offset by sprays of acidity.
It’s pristinely fruity yet nuanced and mineral. Enjoy
now for its freshness, but it will improve through
2027 and hold for another decade. Loosen Bros.
USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 8.5% Price: $92
93 Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2015 Scharzhof-
berger Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). This is a
concentrated yet delightfully light-footed elixir of
fruit and flowers. Intensely perfumed, it wafts of
sweet cantaloupe, honey and pollen. The palate bal-
ances lush white peach and hibiscus nectars against
a scintillating backdrop of acidity. It’s persistent
and steely on the finish. Schmitt-Söhne USA. —A.I.
abv: 8% Price: $30
93 Domdechant Werner 2015 Hochheimer Hölle
Riesling Spätlese (Rheingau). While the
nose is a bit cool, suggesting tart, green notes of
melon rind and apple, the palate of this late-harvest
Riesling is unctuously ripe. It’s boldly honeyed yet
pristine in fruit character, suggesting sun-kissed
yellow cherries and tangerines. The palate is con-
centrated and forward but balanced by zesty acidity
and a lingering, delicately sweet finish. Slocum &
Sons, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 11.5% Price: $33
92 Dr. Hermann 2015 Erdener Herzlei Riesling
Spätlese (Mosel). While unctuously hon-
eyed from nose to finish, this elegantly balanced
spätlese also conveys a purity of fruit. It’s richly
concentrated in white-peach and yellow-cherry fla-
vors but invigoratingly brisk. The finish is marked
by hints of pollen and spring blossom. Broadbent
Selections, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 7.5% Price: $40
92 Dr. Loosen 2015 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Ries-
ling Spätlese (Mosel). Veins of crushed slate
and spice lend complexity to this spine-tingling
wine. Fresh, sweet tangerine and stone-fruit flavors
are concentrated yet pristine, bolstered by streaks
of lemon and grapefruit acidity. The finish mean-
ders long, nuanced by hints of bramble and earth.
Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 8.5% Price: $34
92 Maximin Grünhäuser 2015 Abtsberg Riesling
Spätlese Grosse Lage (Mosel). Ripe apricot
and peach flavors juxtapose leaner notes of white-
melon rind and lime in this vivaciously fresh spät-
lese. Delicate sweetness is balanced against shards
of acid and mineral. The finish is long yet pure.
Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 7.5% Price: $45
91 Fritz Haag 2015 Brauneberger Juffer Son-
nenuhr Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Ripe, fleshy
peach and mango flavors seem swathed in honey
and caramel in this extra-concentrated spätlese.
The richness is balanced by lime acidity and savory
nuances of smoke and slate. It’s delicately textured
yet persistent through a long, slightly sugary finish.
Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 7.5% Price: $44
91 Fritz Haag 2015 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling
Spätlese (Mosel). Dusty, spicy minerals cast
shade over luscious yellow peach and nectarine
in this deeply nuanced spätlese. It’s approachably
juicy yet nervy with acidity. Delicate honey tones
sweeten a lingering finish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 7.5% Price: $38
91 Maximin Grünhäuser 2015 Herrenberg Ries-
ling Spätlese Grosse Lage (Mosel). Penetrat-
ing veins of slate and smoke meander through crisp
cantaloupe, lemon and lime in this elegant semidry
Riesling. Racy and taut with acidity, the palate is
punctuated by a lingering honey and steel finish.
Drink now through 2025. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 7.5% Price: $38
91 Robert Weil 2015 Riesling Spätlese (Rhein-
gau). Zesty acidity lifts this sprightly yet
concentrated spätlese. Crisp yellow plum and citrus
flavors penetrate deeply on the palate, augmented
by a delicate sheen of sweetness. It’s an electric,
impeccably balanced wine with a long finish. Loosen
Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 9% Price: $40
90 Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2015 Graacher
Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese (Mosel).
Equal parts mineral and fruit welded together by
lemon-lime acidity, this light-footed spätlese embod-
ies the Mosel. It’s punchy and spine-tingling on the
palate, finishing long with meandering notes of salt
and crushed stone. Delicately concentrated, it’s also
quaffable and refreshing. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I.
abv: 7.5% Price: $28
90 Dr. Loosen 2015 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling
Spätlese (Mosel). Vibrant strikes of acid-
ity and spicy mineral tones permeate through this
brisk, feather-light spätlese. Zesty green-apple and
plum flavors are cutting and spry on the palate,
accentuated by delicate, lingering sweetness. Invig-
orating now, it should gain depth through 2025 and
hold further. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 8% Price: $34
RIESLING FEINHERB
91 Fritz Haag 2015 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling
Feinherb (Mosel). Earthy, smoky mineral tones
extend from nose to finish here, accentuating flavors
of fresh red apple, tangerine and lemon. The sharp,
racy mouthfeel is softened by hints of honey and a
it should gain complexity through 2027 and hold
another decade. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 12.5% Price: $38
89 Villa Huesgen 2015 Trabener Würzgarten
Riesling Kabinett Trocken (Mosel). Pris-
tine tangerine, cantaloupe and lime flavors are
long, salt and citrus finish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. refreshing and tart in this delicately concentrated,
abv: 12% Price: $43
91 Maximin Grünhäuser 2015 Herrenberg Supe-
rior Grosse Lage Riesling (Mosel). Sun-kissed
dry wine. Briskly composed, it’s approachable and
fresh, with just a hint of earthiness on the finish.

90 Villa Huesgen 2015 Enkircher Steffensberg

Riesling Kabinett Feinherb (Mosel). Pristine
white grapefruits, tangerines and limes abound in
peaches and apricots burst from the nose and palate
of this delightfully sweet-tart, off-dry wine. Despite
its delicate footprint, it’s lusciously concentrated,
Quintessential Wines. —A.I.
abv: 11.5% Price: $38

this revitalizing, light-bodied Riesling. Just a touch
sweet and refreshingly mineral on the palate, it
offers loads of thirst-quenching enjoyment with a
lingering, salty finish. Quintessential Wines. —A.I.
abv: 11% Price: $38
with a creamy, mouthfilling texture. The finish is
long and vibrantly citrusy. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. OTHER RIESLINGS
abv: 11% Price: $59
91 Robert Weil 2015 Riesling Trocken (Rheingau).
Whiffs of white peach and yellow cherry
91 Robert Weil 2015 Tradition Riesling (Rhein-
gau). Subtle notes of white grapefruit and
struck flint intensify on the palate of this off-dry

89 Baron Knyphausen 2015 Riesling Feinherb

(Rheingau). Steely and sharp yet delicately
sweet, this medium-bodied Riesling keeps a bal-
ance between austerity and forward fruitiness. It’s
vibrantly fresh, with crisp grapefruit and lemon
flavors anchored by a core of acidity. Drink now
through 2021 to enjoy its freshness. Valckenberg
International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 11% Price: $25
intensify on the palate of this punchy, concentrated
dry Riesling. It’s buoyantly juicy and fruity, full of
fresh stone fruit and citrus flavors. Vibrant acidity
wine. Fresh tangerine sweetness is subtle and inte-
grated, offset by nervy acidity and a cool, steely fin-
ish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
and deep veins of crushed slate lend refreshment to abv: 10.5% Price: $20
a long finish. It’s an exceptionally balanced wine at
a bargain price. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 12% Price: $20 90 Baron Knyphausen 2015 Roter Riesling
(Rheingau). One of the few examples of
wine made from roter, or red, Riesling, this slightly
91 SJ Montigny 2014 Kreuznacher Steinberg
Riesling Trocken (Nahe). This intensely min-
salmon-hued bottling showcases the variety’s char-
acteristically berried perfume. It’s taut with acidity

89 Karl Schaefer 2015 Wachenheim Sonnen-

tropfchen Riesling Feinherb (Pfalz). Smoke
and bramble on the nose contrast with the kalde-
idscope of fresh green melon, stone fruit and citrus
flavors in this delicately sweet wine. It’s juicy and
light-footed, balanced with zesty acidity. The finish
lingers on a slightly sugary note. Valckenberg Inter-
national, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 11% Price: $30
eral wine leads with bold strikes of steel, slate and
smoke. But the palate opens gradually, exposing
brighter yellow peach and lemon. Taut and dry, it
yet satisfyingly full in body, offering generous layers
of sour-plum, berry and red-apple flavors. The fin-
ish is tinged by a lingering hint of caramel. Valcken-
finishes on lingering notes of salt and crushed min- berg International, Inc. —A.I.
erals. It’s elegant now but should improve through abv: 12% Price: $46
2025 and hold further. Wein Bauer Inc. Cellar
Selection. —A.I.
abv: 11.5% Price: $29 90
abv: 13%
Heinrich Vollmer 2014 V Riesling (Pfalz). For
full review see page 101. Best Buy.
Price: $15

91 Wittmann 2015 Riesling Trocken (Rheinhes-

sen). Fresh tangerine and lemon aromas turn
90 Schloss Vollrads 2015 Riesling (Rheingau).
DRY RIESLING a shade riper on the palate of this approachable but Perfumed notes of white peach and grape-
elegant dry Riesling. It’s luscious and mouthfilling, fruit abound on this medium-bodied, off-dry Ries-

92 Castell 2014 Schlossberg Riesling Trocken GG

(Franken). Expansive body and a undulat-
ing, textural palate set this dry Riesling apart. The
brightened by tart lime and grapefruit acidity that
extends through a long finish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 12.5% Price: $25
ling. It’s fresh and fruity, offering juicy green apple
and citrus flavors sharpened by edges of lime and
lemon. The finish is honeyed and long. Drink now
palate is juicy yet elegant, full of ripe, concentrated through 2020 to enjoy its vibrant style. Schmitt-
white grapefruit and lime flavors. Fresh yet power-
ful, it finishes on lingering notes of earth and smoke.
Drink now through 2030. Valckenberg Interna-
90 SJ Montigny 2014 Kreuznacher Kahlenberg
Riesling Trocken (Nahe). Lusciously ripe
apricots and yellow peaches are electrified by racy
Söhne USA. —A.I.
abv: 10% Price: $20

tional, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.

abv: 13.5% Price: $82
streaks of acidity in this dry Riesling. It’s light in body
yet creamy and expansive on the palate. The finish is
long and crisply mineral. Wein Bauer Inc. —A.I.
89 Member’s Mark 2016 Riesling (Mosel). For
a value-priced wine (especially considering
its large-format bottling), this unassuming Riesling

92 Maximin Grünhäuser 2015 Abtsberg Supe-

rior Grosse Lage Riesling (Mosel). Fragrant
yellow blossoms and orange peels perfume this
sprightly Riesling. It’s unabashedly fruity, full of
sweet peach and tangerine flavors yet offset by a
racy backbone of acidity. The finish is refreshingly
tart. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 11% Price: $66
abv: 11.5% Price: $22
90 Villa Wolf 2015 Dry Riesling (Pfalz). Ethe-
really light in body and texture, this dry
Riesling offers loads of juicy tangerine and grape-
fruit flavors. It’s refreshingly tart, with a lean, steely
finish. Drink now through 2020. Loosen Bros. USA.
Best Buy. —A.I.
offers a bounty of juicy, fruity enjoyment calibrated
with hints of minerality and revitalizing freshness.
Its semidry tangerine and apricot flavors are easygo-
ing yet zesty, slicked in honey and a touch of graph-
ite. The finish is brisk but clean. Drink now. Prestige
Beverage Group. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 9.5% Price: $11/1.5 L

92 Robert Weil 2015 Kiedricher Riesling Trocken

(Rheingau). An earthen backbone of smoke
and crushed stone lends depth to pristine yellow
peach and nectarine in this elegant single-vineyard
Riesling. Dry in style, it’s juicy and flush on the
palate yet vibrantly balanced in acidity. The fin-
ish lingers on spicy earth tones. Beautiful already,
abv: 11.5% Price: $12
90 Wittmann 2015 100 Hills Dry Riesling (Rhe-
inhessen). Exuberant and fresh, this viva-
cious dry Riesling is anchored in cutting citrus
tones of lime, lemon and tangerine. Medium bodied
on the palate, it’s racy, crystalline style is endlessly
quaffable. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 12.5% Price: $18
88 HXM NV Riesling (Landwein Rhein). Deeply
savory tones of bramble and earth are jux-
taposed against fresh tangerine and lemon in this
light-footed, semidry Riesling. It’s not a deeply
complex wine but sprightly and crisp, with a clean,
slightly honeyed finish. Drink now. Total Wine &
More. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 8.5% Price: $10

WINEMAG.COM | 129
BUYINGGUIDE
87 Clear Night 2015 Riesling (Pfalz). Delicate
whiffs of spring blossoms gain intensity on
the palate of this easy-drinking, off-dry Riesling.
Rounded and a bit plush, it’s not a deeply concen-
trated or complex wine but the fresh apple and
peach flavors are pleasant. Drink now. Scoperta
Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 10.5% Price: $11
87 Sun Garden 2015 Riesling (Nahe). Fruity
and fresh, this easygoing semidry Riesling
offers heaps of sweet peach and citrus flavors. It’s
not complex, but is crisply balanced with a clean,
refreshing finish. Drink now. Scoperta Importing
Co. Inc. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 9% Price: $11
NORTHEAST ITALY
COLLIO
93 Villa Russiz 2015 De La Tour Sauvignon (Col-
lio). Elegant and finely structured, this
creamy fragrant white opens with heady scents of
jasmine, honeysuckle and white stone fruit. The
smooth delicious palate delivers green melon, white
peach, cantaloupe, grapefruit and orange zest while
a saline note lifts the lingering finish. Empson USA
Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 13.5% Price: $55
92 Villa Russiz 2015 Friulano (Collio). A few
swirls of the glass release alluring aromas
of mature pear, bread crust and a whiff of yellow
flower. Elegant and savory, the medium-bodied pal-
ate doles out ripe yellow apple, lemon zest and a
pleasant note of bitter almond while a mineral note
adds energy. It’s fresh and understated, but it’s also
delicious and balanced. Empson USA Ltd. Editors’
Choice. —K.O.
abv: 13.5% Price: $27
90 Borgo Conventi 2015 Pinot Grigio (Collio).
Delicate alluring scents suggesting ripe
orchard fruit and Spanish broom lead the nose on
this subtle elegant white. On the bright balanced
palate, notes of beeswax and mineral underscore
Bartlett pear and yellow apple. It boasts impressive
harmony and freshness for what was an extremely
hot vintage. Constellation Brands, Inc. —K.O.
abv: 13% Price: $50
90 Ronco dei Tassi 2015 Sauvignon (Collio).
Savory and bright, this has classic varietal
aromas of grapefruit, tropical fruit and an herba-
ceous note reminiscent of crushed tomato vine. The
vibrant palate delivers green melon, kiwi and dried
herb alongside tangy acidity and a hint of stony
mineral. Domenico Valentino. —K.O.
abv: 13% Price: $16
90 Russiz Superiore 2015 Sauvignon (Collio).
Crushed tomato vine, yellow stone fruit
and honeydew melon aromas almost jump out of the
130 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
glass. The ripe medium-bodied palate gives creamy
peach and juicy apricot while notes of aromatic herb
accent the finish. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O.
a hint of saline while a note of white almond marks
the close. Baldocchino Fine Wines. —K.O.
abv: 13% Price: $25
abv: 13.5% Price: $28
89 Alessio Komjanc 2015 Pinot Grigio (Collio).
This full-bodied Pinot Grigio offers aromas
88 Draga 2015 Sauvignon (Collio). Classic vari-
etal aromas of crushed tomato vine, grape-
fruit and a whiff of aromatic herb take center stage.
of sunbaked soil, hay, mature apple and dried herb. The grapefruit note carries over to the medium-
The rounded palate offers yellow apple and orange bodied palate along with honeydew melon and a
zest alongside soft acidity while a light mineral note
lifts the finish. CV Tuscany Wine Imports. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $NA
hint of mineral. RMB Imports. —K.O.
abv: 13.5% Price: $70
89 Collavini 2014 Broy (Collio). Made with
Friulano, Chardonnay and Sauvignon, this
88 Masut da Rive 2015 Maurus Chardonnay
(Collio). Aromas of toasted oak, pressed
yellow flower and ripe orchard fruit carry over to
offers aromas of white flower, tropical fruit, tomato the palate along with toasted nut, yellow apple and
leaf and citrus. The bright linear palate offers yellow a hint of vanilla. Enjoy soon to capture the remain-
peach, candied lemon zest and dried herb alongside ing fruit and freshness. Vignaioli Selection. —K.O.
tangy acidity. Blue Ventures Wine Marketing. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $45
abv: 13% Price: $35
89 Gradis’ciutta 2015 Chardonnay (Collio). 88 Masut da Rive 2015 Pinot Grigio (Collio).
Aromas of white spring flower, acacia and
Aromas suggesting yellow spring flower,
beeswax and yellow stone fruit set the tone while
the ripe medium-bodied palate offers creamy golden
ripe orchard fruit take center stage while the round
medium-bodied palate doles out candied nectarine
slices and golden apple. Vignaioli Selection. —K.O.
apple, peach and a hint of wet stone. Vineyard abv: 13.5% Price: $24
Brands. —K.O.
abv: 13.5% Price: $16
88 Muzic 2015 Sauvignon (Collio). Here’s a
big round white that opens with aromas of
89 Ronco Blanchis 2015 Pinot Grigio (Collio).
White spring flower, white stone fruit and a
whiff of crushed stone come together on this. Bright
tropical fruit, hay and wet stone while the ripe full-
bodied palate offers cantaloupe and green melon.
You’ll also notice the warmth of evident alcohol.
and savory, the medium-bodied palate presents ripe
Bartlett pear, golden apple and tangerine zest while
a hint of aromatic herb wraps up the finish. Lemma
Wine Emporium. —K.O.
abv: 14.5% Price: $19
Wine Co Inc. —K.O.
abv: 13% Price: $20 88 Pighin 2016 Sauvignon (Collio). Classic
varietal aromas of tropical fruit and crushed
tomato vine follow through to the refreshing palate
89 Ronco dei Tassi 2015 Malvasia (Collio). Aro-
mas of ripe pear, white peach and tangerine
zest carry over to the bright round palate. Energiz-
along with a grapefruit note. Crisp acidity gives it a
bright clean finish. Kobrand. —K.O.
abv: 13.5% Price: $24
ing mineral notes, suggestive of wet stone, lift the
savory finish. Domenico Valentino. —K.O.
abv: 13.5% Price: $19 88 Toros 2008 Sauvignon (Collio). Aromas of
eucalyptus, citrus zest, dill and a menthol
note emerge on this nine-year-old white. While it’s
89 Schiopetto 2015 Pinot Grigio (Collio). This
opens with delicate aromas reminiscent
of white spring flower and a whiff of orchard fruit.
still interesting and surprisingly fresh for its age,
with notes of lemon peel, grapefruit and salty min-
eral, I would have loved to try this in its prime four
On the palate, fresh acidity underscores creamy or five years ago. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —K.O.
Bartlett pear and nectarine zest that lead to a clean, abv: 13.5% Price: $25
bright finish. Voliovino. —K.O.
abv: 13.5% Price: $24
88 Venica & Venica 2015 Ronco del Cerò Sauvi-
gnon (Collio). This opens with subtle aromas
88 Attems 2015 Sauvignon (Collio). This has
aromas of toast and exotic fruit that carry
over to the palate along with notes of citrus zest,
suggesting white flower, hay and dried aromatic herb.
The medium-bodied palate offers juicy yellow peach
and a hint of grapefruit while a salty hint of mineral
vanilla and roasted coffee bean. A hint of grilled marks the close. Grand Cru Selections. —K.O.
herb marks the close. Folio Fine Wine Partners. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA
—K.O.
abv: 13.5% Price: $50
88 Venica & Venica 2015 Ronco delle Cime
Friulano (Collio). Aromas of acacia, nut and
88 Colmello di Grotta 2015 Pinot Grigio (Collio).
This opens with aromas of sunbaked earth,
warm hay and crushed stone. The ripe round palate
yellow stone fruit lead the nose. It’s ripe and round,
offering dried apricot, bread crust, golden apple and
a note of bitter almond. Grand Cru Selections. —K.O.
shows mature golden apple, ripe Bartlett pear and abv: 14% Price: $35
87 Colmello di Grotta 2015 Sauvignon (Collio).
This has subdued scents suggesting grape-
fruit, citrus and a whiff of sun-warmed hay. Round
nectarine, grapefruit, celery and sage while a min-
eral vein lends energy. Vias Imports. —K.O.
abv: 13.5% Price: $44
nut while a saline note wraps up the finish. Not your
typical Pinot Grigio for sure. Vias Imports. —K.O.
abv: 13.5% Price: $43
and ripe, the palate offers yellow apple, lemon zest
and a hint of green melon alongside a note of dried
sage. Baldocchino Fine Wines. —K.O.
abv: 13% Price: $25
90 Borgo San Daniele 2015 Pinot Grigio (Isonzo
del Friuli). Pressed hawthorn, mature
orchard fruit and a whiff of aromatic herb lead
86 La Boatina 2015 Pinot Grigio (Friuli Isonzo).
Subdued aromas of yellow flower, orchard
fruit and a whiff of nut lift out of the glass. The pal-
the nose. Round and savory, the full-bodied palate ate seems rather evolved, offering suggestions dried

87 Marco Felluga 2014 Molamatta (Collio). A

blend of 40% barrel fermented Pinot Bianco,
40% Friulano and 20%, Ribolla Gialla fermented in
steel, this opens with aromas suggesting dried exotic
fruit, coconut and oak-driven spice. The aromas
carry over to the rather lean palate alongside a con-
fectionery note and firm acidity. A walnut taste gives
it a bitter finish. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O.
abv: 13.5% Price: $25
offers creamy yellow apple, juicy pear and a hint of
crystallized ginger. It’s balanced, with just enough
freshness and a lingering finish. Uva Imports. —K.O.
citrus zest and a hint of baked yellow apple. It closes
on a bitter almond note. Villa Italia. —K.O.
abv: 13% Price: $22
abv: 14% Price: $32
HUNGARY
90 Ronco del Gelso 2015 Toc Bas Friulano (Fri-
uli Isonzo). Aromas of grapefruit, tropical
fruit, citrus zest, a whiff of graphite and an herba- RED WINES
ceous note take center stage on this expressive yet

87 Pighin 2016 Pinot Grigio (Collio). Round and

friendly, this opens with aromas of banana
and tropical fruit. The scents carry over to the ripe
fruity palate along with yellow apple and a hint of
lemon peel. Kobrand. —K.O.
abv: 14% Price: $24
elegant white. The round medium-bodied palate
delivers ripe pear, yellow apple, lemon and a quint-
essential note of bitter almond typical of the variety.
Palermo Wine Imports. —K.O.
abv: 13% Price: $25
90 Vie di Romans 2015 Ciampagnis Chardonnay
(Friuli Isonzo). Aromas of citrus, ripe apple
89 Kovács Nimród 2013 Monopole Blues Kék-
frankos (Eger). This 100% Kekfrankos has
characteristic aromas of red raspberry, pomegran-
ate, green pepper and forest floor. In the mouth
there are flavors of dried cranberry, tart cherry and
a touch of jalapeño pepper. Tannins are soft and the
finish is pleasantly acidic. Nimrod Wines, LLC. —J.J.
abv: 13.3% Price: $19

87 Tenuta di Angoris 2015 Pinot Grigio (Collio).

Ripe and juicy, this offers aromas of pressed
spring flower and yellow stone fruit. On the bright
palate, a note of candied nectarine zest accents ripe
yellow apple and dried apricot. MS Walker. —K.O.
abv: 13.5% Price: $14
and exotic fruit carry over to the focused medium-
bodied palate, along with notes of pastry and a hint
of crystallized ginger. It’s nicely balanced, with fresh
acidity. Vias Imports. —K.O.
abv: 13.5% Price: $36
88 Kovács Nimród 2012 Monopole Rhapsody
(Eger). This Hungarian red blend is garnet
in color, with aromas of red cherry and black berry
and flavors of red cherry and pomegranate. The tan-
nins are soft with a medium-length finish. Nimrod

87 Villa Russiz 2015 Pinot Grigio (Collio). Sub-

dued aromas of pressed acacia flower, hay
89 Lis Neris 2015 Pinot Grigio (Isonzo del Fri-
uli). Partly fermented and aged in 500-liter
French barrels, this opens with aromas of toasted
Wines, LLC. —J.J.
abv: 13.9% Price: $19

and beeswax take shape in the glass. The mature

palate offers ripe yellow apple and a hint of citrus
zest alongside a note of toasted almond. Drink soon
to capture the remaining fruit and freshness. Emp-
son USA Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 13% Price: $27
oak, bread crust, acacia and sage. The rounded
medium-boded palate offers mature yellow-apple
skin, pineapple and a hint of butterscotch while a
nutty note closes the finish. Wine Twist. —K.O.
abv: 13.5% Price: $28
88 Vincze Béla 2013 Rosszfiú Cuveé (Eger). This
Hungarian red blend has aromas of red
raspberry, black cherry and violets. In the mouth
there are flavors of cranberry, pomegranate and
black plum. The finish is slightly astringent but
persistent. Sheffield Wines, LLC. —J.J.

89 Vie di Romans 2015 Vieris Sauvignon (Friuli

Isonzo). This opens with aromas of bread
abv: 11.5% Price: $15

FRIULI ISONZO crust, citrus zest and a whiff of crushed aromatic

herb. Aged on its lees in barriques, the medium-bod- 87 Kovács Nimród 2012 Monopole Noir Pinot
Noir-Syrah (Eger). Aromas of red raspberry

91 Vie di Romans 2015 Chardonnay (Friuli

Isonzo). Mature orchard fruit, candied citrus,
toasted oak and vanilla aromas emerge in the glass.
The round polished palate offers baked yellow apple,
pineapple and toasted almond while a stony mineral
note lends depth. Vias Imports. —K.O.
abv: 13.5% Price: $45
ied palate offers toasted oak, mature yellow apple,
candied lemon drop and a hint of bitter almond. Vias
Imports. —K.O.
and red cherry lead into flavors of pomegranate
juice and cherry cola. The finish is pleasantly acidic
and medium in length in this interesting blend of
abv: 13.5% Price: $47 Pinot Noir and Syrah. Nimrod Wines, LLC. Best
Buy. —J.J.
88 Masut da Rive 2015 Friulano (Isonzo del
Friuli). Acacia, Spanish broom and ripe
abv: 13.7% Price: $12

91 Vie di Romans 2015 Flors di Uis (Isonzo del Fri-

uli). This focused white opens with alluring
aromas of citrus, yellow stone fruit and a whiff of
baking spice. Made with Malvasia Istriana, Friulano
and Riesling Renano, the savory palate offers juicy
peach, nectarine, apricot and ripe pear. It has a
tangy lemon-drop finish. Vias Imports. —K.O.
abv: 13% Price: $42
orchard-fruit aromas emerge in the glass. The
medium-bodied palate offers yellow apple and
mature pear while a pleasantly bitter almond note
wraps up the finish. Vignaioli Selection. —K.O.
abv: 13% Price: $24
88 Vie di Romans 2015 Dessimis Pinot Grigio
(Friuli Isonzo). This copper-colored Pinot
Grigio (a result of brief skin contact) offers subdued
aromas suggesting yellow flower, toasted nut and
87 Vincze Béla 2008 Blauburger (Eger). This
Hungarian Blauburger is garnet in color,
with aromas of cranberry, pomegranate and forest
floor. It has flavors of sweet cherry and cranberry
and a tart finish. Sheffield Wines, LLC. —J.J.
abv: 12% Price: $17
86 Vincze Béla 2014 Egri Bikavér (Eger). This
red blend from Hungary is garnet in color
with aromas of cranberry and black cherry. Flavors

91 Vie di Romans 2015 Piere Sauvignon (Friuli

Isonzo). Classic varietal aromas of tomato
leaf, exotic fruit and citrus practically jump out of
citrus zest. Aged in barriques, the linear, rather lean
palate offers oak, coconut, lemon and a note of bitter
suggest tart cherry and pomegranate juice, with
grippy tannins and an acidic finish. Sheffield Wines,
LLC. —J.J.
the glass. The bright palate doles out juicy peach, abv: 11.5% Price: $19

WINEMAG.COM | 131
BUYINGGUIDE
CROATIA
WHITE WINES
89 Adzic 2015 Graševina (Kutjevo). This straw-
colored wine has delightful aromas of white
jasmine, cotton candy and violets. Flavors recall
guava, mango and papaya. Medium bodied and well
balanced, it has a clean, crisp finish. Blue Danube
Wine Co. —J.J.
abv: 13% Price: $20
89 Toreta 2015 Special Posip (Korcula). Aro-
mas suggest lemon blossom, lime zest and
green apple. Flavors of apple and lemon zest shine
before the pleasant acidic finish Blue Danube Wine
Co. —J.J.
abv: 12.5% Price: $20
88 Sipun 2015 Zlahtina (Krk). This wine from
the island of Krk is straw colored, with aro-
mas of apple blossom, green apple and lemon zest. It
is well weighted in the mouth, with flavors of apple
and citrus blossom and a creamy finish. Blue Dan-
ube Wine Co. —J.J.
abv: 11.5% Price: $19
88 Toreta 2015 Premium Posip (Korcula). Aro-
mas of grapefruit, lemon zest and white
peach lead the way to flavors of apple and peach.
There’s a nice level of minerality and a crisp finish.
Blue Danube Wine Co. —J.J.
abv: 13.5% Price: $25
BULGARIA
WHITE WINES
87 Domaine Boyar 2015 Muscat (Thracian Val-
ley). This wine has enticing aromas of jas-
mine, white peach and orange blossom. It is well
balanced with flavors of apricot and tangerine on
the palate and a touch of bright orange flavor in the
finish. Bulgarian Master Vintners. Best Buy. —J.J.
abv: 12.5% Price: $10
87 Minkov Brothers 2011 Le Photographe Rhe-
inriesling Riesling (Thracian Valley). Aromas
of lemon-lime, jasmine and honeysuckle prepare
the palate for crisp, clean flavors of lemon zest and
lemon curd. USA Wine West. —J.J.
abv: 13% Price: $22
RED WINES
90 Edoardo Miroglio 2012 EM Mavrud (Thracian
Valley). This wine has aromas of cherry,
cherry pie, pomegranate juice and dark chocolate.
In the mouth there are flavors of cranberry, cherry
cola and a touch of dried oregano. It is well balanced
with soft tannins and a splash of tart cherry juice
132 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
before the persistent finish. Kristova Family Part-
ners. —J.J.
abv: 13% Price: $16
90 Midalidare 2012 Reserve (Thracian Val-
ley). Ruby red in the glass, this blend is
composed of 80% Merlot, 14% Syrah, 4% Caber-
net Sauvignon and 2% Petit Verdot. Aromas sug-
gest cherry, blackberry, and a touch of new saddle
leather. In the mouth, flavors of fresh black cherry
and tart cherry prevail, with fine tannins in the per-
sistent finish. G&B Importers. —J.J.
abv: 14% Price: $100
89 Bulgariana 2015 Gamza (Danube River
Plains). This garnet-red-colored wine has
aromas of red summer fruits, especially red rasp-
berry, and flavors of cherry and blackberry. The tan-
nins are soft and fine and there’s a bit of an astrin-
gent finish. G&B Importers. Best Buy. —J.J.
abv: 13% Price: $11
89 Bulgariana 2014 Pinot Noir (Danube River
Plains). This Pinot Noir has delightful aro-
mas of tart cherry, cotton candy, dried violet and
powdered cocoa. On the palate there are flavors of
pomegranate, fresh cherry, dried Mediterranean
herbs and milk chocolate. It is well balanced, with a
pleasant splash of acidity in the finish. G&B Import-
ers. Best Buy. —J.J.
abv: 13.5% Price: $14
89 Chateau Burgozone 2013 Côte de Danube
Pinot Noir (Danube River Plains). This
delightful wine has aromas of dried violet, cocoa
powder and cherry juice, with flavors of fresh cherry
juice, dried herbs and pomegranate. It is balanced
and has a touch of acidity in the finish. USA Wine
West. —J.J.
abv: 13.5% Price: $16
89 Edoardo Miroglio 2014 Bio Made with
Organic Grapes Mavrud and Rubin (Thracian
Valley). Mavrud and Rubin are both indigenous Bul-
garian grapes. This wine conveys aromas of black
cherry, dried cherry and eucalyptus, with flavors of
tart cherry, cranberry and pomegranate juice. It is
well balanced and has a long finish. Kristova Family
Partners. —J.J.
abv: 13% Price: $16
89 Edoardo Miroglio 2014 Sant’ilia Merlot
and Mavrud (Thracian Valley). This blend
of 60% Merlot and 40% Mavrud has aromas of
cherry cola, red raspberry and a whiff of mint. Fla-
vors recall cherry vanilla and black berry. It’s well
balanced, with soft sweet tannins and a persistent
finish. Kristova Family Partners. —J.J.
abv: 13.5% Price: $NA
89 K Cellars 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Thra-
cian Valley). Aromas of cinnamon, pow-
dered nutmeg and black cherry lead into a palate
with flavors of black cherry, candied violet, dried
cherry and finely ground black pepper. This wine
has medium body, nice mouthfeel and a persistent
finish accented by a touch of lively fruit acidity.
G&B Importers. Best Buy. —J.J.
abv: 14.5% Price: $12
89 Midalidare 2013 Grand Vintage Mogilovo
Single Vineyard Malbec (Thracian Valley).
Not your typical Malbec, this Bulgarian version has
aromas of tobacco leaf and cassis, and flavors of tart
cherry and red plum. It offers soft tannins and a finish
filled with tastes of red fruits. G&B Importers. —J.J.
abv: 14% Price: $40
89 Orbelus 2012 Hrumki Melnik 55 Mourvèdre
Marselan (Thracian Lowlands). An interest-
ing blend of indigenous Bulgarian and uncommon
French varieties, this red wine is made from equal
parts Melnik, Mourvèdre and Marselan. It offers
aromas of red cherry, cassis and leather, while fla-
vors suggest black cherry and tart cherry pie. It has
fine tannins and a persistent finish. Kristova Family
Partners. —J.J.
abv: 13.5% Price: $25
89 Villa Yambol 2013 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon (Thracian Valley). This garnet-colored
wine has aromas of black fruits, black plums and
violets. Flavors of tobacco leaf, cherry vanilla and
cinnamon wash over the palate before the long fin-
ish. G&B Importers. Best Buy. —J.J.
abv: 13.5% Price: $12
89 Villa Yustina 2012 Monogram Mavrud and
Rubin (Thracian Valley). A blend of 60%
Mavrud and 40% Rubin, this ruby-colored wine
has aromas of black berry, black plum and a touch of
powdered cocoa. In the mouth, flavors recall black
cherry, black raspberry and a hint of mocha and
espresso. Tannins are soft and the finish is persis-
tent. Kristova Family Partners. —J.J.
abv: 13.5% Price: $26
88 F2F 2014 Red (Thracian Valley). A blend of
Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Regent, this
garnet-colored wine has aromas of cherry vanilla,
eucalyptus and tobacco leaf. Flavors of mocha and
blackberry lead to a balanced finish. G&B Import-
ers. —J.J.
abv: 13% Price: $16
88 Orbelus 2013 Hrumki Syrah Melnik 55
Mourvèdre Marselan (Thracian Lowlands).
This dark-garnet wine has aromas of eucalyptus,
balsa wood and black cherry. Flavors of cassis,
leather and black cherry lead to a long finish. USA
Wine West. —J.J.
abv: 14% Price: $19
88 Orbelus 2012 Getika Made With Organic
Grapes (Thracian Lowlands). Enticing aro-
mas of blueberry syrup open this blend of Merlot,
Cabernet Sauvignon, Melnik, Syrah and Petit Ver-
dot. Flavors of cherry, tart cherry pie, blueberry and
red raspberry come with a burst of acidity before
the persistent finish. Kristova Family Partners. —J.J.
abv: 14% Price: $28
88 Orbelus 2011 Getika Made With Organic
Grapes (Thracian Lowlands). This blend is
comprised of 55% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Sauvi-
gnon, 18% Melnik and 6% Petit Verdot. It has aro-
mas of powdered cocoa and black cherry and flavors
of tart cherry, blackberry and blueberry. A pleasant
burst of acidity shows on the finish. Kristova Family
Partners. —J.J.
abv: 14% Price: $28
88 Ross-idi 2014 Nikolaevo Unfiltered Rubin
(Thracian Lowlands). This garnet-colored
wine made from Rubin, an indigenous Bulgar-
ian variety, has aromas of canned cranberry sauce
and mint jelly with delightful flavors of cranberry
and pomegranate juice. The finish is juicy and fruit
filled. Kristova Family Partners. —J.J.
abv: 14% Price: $36
88 Villa Yambol 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Thracian Valley). Inky purple in the glass,
this wine has aromas of cherry, vanilla and black
berry. It is medium bodied in the mouth, with fla-
vors of black plum and blueberry syrup. Brown bak-
ing spices show before the persistent finish. G&B
Importers. Best Buy. —J.J.
abv: 13% Price: $10
88 Villa Yambol 2015 Mavrud (Thracian Val-
ley). This ink-colored wine has aromas of
cranberry juice, candied violets and finely ground
black pepper. Characteristic flavors of tart cherry,
cranberry and pomegranate lead to just a touch of
vanilla in the finish. G&B Importers. Best Buy. —J.J.
abv: 13.5% Price: $10
87 Minkov Brothers 2014 Le Photographe Cab-
ernet Franc (Thracian Valley). This ruby-col-
ored wine offers aromas of black cherry and notes of
green pepper and summer farmstand. It has flavors
of black cherry, cherry cola and cassis, with soft
tannins and a bright burst of acidity in the finish.
USA Wine West. —J.J.
abv: 13% Price: $22
GEORGIA
WHITE WINES
89 Schuchmann Wines 2014 Vinoterra Kisi
(Kakheti). This amber-colored wine offers
a clean bouquet of green apple. Sophisticated flavors
of tart apple, honeydew and sage play on the tongue
amid chewy tannins that persist into a mouthwatering
finish, with lingering notes of Mediterranean herbs.
Georgian House of Greater Washington, LLC. —M.D.
abv: 13% Price: $19
88 Doqi 2014 Qveri Kisi (Georgia). Don’t be
fooled by this honey-colored wine’s simple
nose of clementine. It offers a complex palate of
green apple, guava and honeydew melon bolstered
by soft floral notes. Strong tannins make their pres-
90 Teliani Valley 2015 Semi-Sweet Khvanchkara
(Georgia). A bouquet of cherry, white choc-
olate and juniper berry sets the stage for flavors of
ence known on the gums and tongue, but any sense raspberry, blackberry, blueberry pie and baking
of grippiness is overcome by the bright citrus finish.
Blue Danube Wine Co. —M.D.
abv: 13% Price: $23
spices. It is smooth in the mouth, with a sense of soft
sweetness that is neither overpowering nor cloying,
bolstered by a pervasive backbone of acidity. Geor-
gian House of Greater Washington, LLC. —M.D.
88 Doqi 2014 Qveri Rkatsiteli (Georgia). Light
amber in the glass, this wine offers a bou-
abv: 12.5% Price: $20
quet of stone fruit and white flowers. It is round on
the palate with flavors of apricot, peach, flint and
white chocolate. Tannins that enter softly stiffen up
89 Doqi 2014 Saperavi (Georgia). This red-vio-
let-colored wine has a bouquet of raspberry
and lingonberry. Velvety tannins create a backdrop
just before the smooth, bright finish. Blue Danube for flavors of blackberry, cranberry, vanilla and fen-
Wine Co. —M.D.
abv: 13% Price: $21
nel. Notes of cranberry shine through on the bright
finish. Blue Danube Wine Co. —M.D.
abv: 13% Price: $20
88 Gotsa Family Wines 2015 Dry Unfiltered
Rkatsiteli Mtsvane (Kartli). Amber to the
eye, this wine features an enticing bouquet of 88 Teliani Valley 2015 Saperavi (Kakheti). A
nose of cherry with a hint of spice leads
almond blossom and toffee. It is slightly chalky on to flavors of blackberry, cranberry, vanilla and fen-
the palate, with a sophisticated mélange of baked nel. A sense of brightness on the first sip recedes to
apple, peach, smoked meat and pencil-lead flavors. showcase silky tannins that last through the pome-
A touch of brightness marks the soft finish. Blue
Danube Wine Co. —M.D.
abv: 14% Price: $25
granate finish. Georgian House of Greater Washing-
ton, LLC. Best Buy. —M.D.
abv: 13% Price: $13
87 Doqi 2015 Rkatsiteli (Georgia). Light straw
in color, this wine has a bright nose of pine-
apple and grapefruit. It fills the mouth with flavors
88 Teliani Valley 2014 Mukuzani Saperavi
(Kakheti). This dark violet-red wine has a
nose of blackberry and rose petal. Full on the palate,
of grapefruit and pineapple, with a touch of quince. it offers flavors of black cherry, cranberry, chocolate
The finish is a tad tart, with a pleasant note of pas- and a touch of smoke. There is a pervading sense
sion fruit. Blue Danube Wine Co. —M.D.
abv: 12.5% Price: $15
of brightness throughout, although sneaky tannins
provide for a hint of chalkiness on the finish. Geor-
gian House of Greater Washington, LLC. —M.D.
87 Teliani Valley 2015 Tsolikouri (Lechkhumi).
Aromas of green apple and white flowers
abv: 13% Price: $16
prepare the palate for a wine that fills the mouth CLASSIFIEDS
with soft fruit flavors, in particular apple, grapefruit
SOFTWARE
and pineapple. The soft finish is marked by a note
of Granny Smith apple. Georgian House of Greater
Washington, LLC. —M.D.
abv: 13% Price: $14
WINE CELLAR SOFTWARE.
Cellaring guide plus inventory man-
agement with rack display. Charts and
86 Doqi 2015 Mtsvane (Georgia). A fresh nose of
green apple leads to flavors of Seville orange,
white peach and tart white cherry. Soft on the palate,
reports show cellar contents, wines
added or consumed. Decanter called it
this wine may be a little tart for some tastes, but it is good fun.
truly refreshing, with a burst of floral brightness on Free trial from www.uncork.biz
the finish. Blue Danube Wine Co. —M.D.
abv: 13% Price: $15
CONTACT
ADVERTISE
RED WINES
90 Dilao 2015 Saperavi (Kakheti). Deep garnet
in the glass, this wine offers a tight nose of
WITH US
black cherry before filling the mouth with flavors of
blackberry, cherry, dark chocolate and lavender. Soft
tannins that are slow to make their presence known
persist into the bright cherry finish. Georgian House
of Greater Washington, LLC. Best Buy. —M.D.
For More Information and Rates Contact:
abv: 13% Price: $15 Chuck Criss
ccriss@wineenthusiast.net
Phone: 914-345-9463 ext.4134
WINEMAG.COM | 133
BUYINGGUIDE
SPIRITS
Barrel-aged gin reviews: What’s in a name?
S
hhh, don’t tell: We’re taking a risk with
this month’s category—barrel-aged gin—
because technically it doesn’t exist.
You see, U.S. regulators don’t recog-
nize “aged gin” as a spirit type, so it must be
given another designation. As a result, spirits
producers perform all kinds of labeling contor-
tions to get around that technicality. Instead
of calling their product “barrel aged,” as you’ll tions; for example, he’s currently working on a
see below, they test the limits
of creativity with descriptions
such as “barrel rested,” “bar- Barrel time can
rel finished,” or “barreled.” Per- really push gin in
haps the gin is “dark” or “rusty,”
new directions.
or maybe it’s billed as “barrel
reserve” or “single barrel” gin.
Yet, that sticky naming issue hasn’t stopped pushes beyond gin to resemble “a spicy botani-
gin producers from continuing to plunk gin
into barrels, layering sprightly botanicals with
vanilla and honey oaky notes. What’s the attrac- space (California’s No. 209 in particular has
tion?
“I found inspiration from Bourbon barrels,”
says Ben Capdevielle, founder/distiller at Seat- whiskey barrel experiments.
tle’s Captive Spirits, which has experimented
with aging its flagship Big Gin in barrels that
previously held Bourbon and American single-
94 Citadelle Reserve Solera Gin (France; W.J.
Deutsch & Sons, Stamford, CT). An unusual,
complex gin made using a total of 23 casks, includ-
ing barrels that previously held Cognac, Pineau de
Charentes, and Bourbon, among others. It has a
light straw hue and gentle vanilla scent, opening
smooth and sweet with hints of grapefruit peel,
ginger and pink peppercorn zing, and a mellow fade
marked by cinnamon, coriander, almond and coco-
nut. Sip or mix. Best Buy.
abv: 44% Price: $35
93 Bristow Gin Single Barrel Reserve (USA; Cat-
head Distillery, Jackson, MS). Reminiscent
of gingerbread, this honey-hued gin is aged in new
American oak for more than one year and has a
sweet scent and bold palate that shows vanilla bean,
cinnamon, clove, cardamom and a hint of molasses,
finishing with a sarsaparilla-like roots-and-bark
finish. Try it in an Old Fashioned-style cocktail.
abv: 56.5% Price: $55
134 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017
malt whiskey (see reviews below). “The barrels
go all around the world and age all kinds of spir-
its in them. I said, let’s keep this tradition alive
and add a new flavor to the liquid,” in this case,
gin. He describes the resulting flavor as a “gins-
key,” a mix of gin and whiskey influences.
From a distiller’s point of view, he notes that
barrel time can really push gin in new direc-
Reserve bottling that will spend
three years on oak. “The juniper
gets squashed in the barrel,” he
explains, while “the warming
spices like cassia, cardamom,
grains of paradise, really come
to the forefront.” The end result
cal whiskey.”
Wine cask experiments also abound in this
broken some ground with wine cask-aged gins—
look for their Chardonnay-aged bottling), as do
For those of us more concerned with finding
good things to drink, barrel-aged gins can be an
exciting experience. —Kara Newman
92 The Revivalist Botanical Gin Solstice Expres-
sion (USA; Brandywine Branch Distillers,
Elverson, PA). This robust, deliciously juicy sipper
spent time in former red wine casks. It has a rose-
gold hue and shows plenty of fruit and spice, starting
with dried cherry and leading into ginger, nutmeg
and cinnamon, plus a burst of anise on the finish.
This barrel-aged gin is begging to marry with sweet
vermouth, so mix it into Old Fashioned- or Manhat-
tan-style cocktails; cherry garnish, of course.
abv: 46.5% Price: $40
92 Woodcut Barrel Rested Gin (USA; Temple Dis-
tilling, Lynnwood, WA). Made with a Navy
Strength gin base rested in ex-Bourbon barrels, this
gin has a light straw tint and aromatics that suggest
a classic dry gin: mild juniper and citrus, plus a hint
of almond nods to the oak influence. The palate is
distinctly sweet and light, weaving honey, coriander
seed and lemon peel with lychee-like floral notes.
Plenty of white pepper and ginger braces up the
zingy finish. Think gin and tonics.
abv: 45% Price: $39
91 Booth’s Finest Dry Gin Cask Mellowed (Eng-
land; Diageo, Norwalk, CT). This gin, “mel-
lowed in sherry oak casks,” offers a pleasing balance
between citrus, spice and juniper. Light straw in
the glass, look for mild vanilla sweetness, delicate
vanilla, cardamom and lemon peel, and a solid juni-
per backbone. The crisp, slightly drying finish is
accented with white pepper.
abv: 45% Price: $45
91 No. 209 Chardonnay Barrel Reserve Gin (USA;
Distillery No. 209, San Francisco, CA). Part of a
series of wine barrel-finished gins, this will please
those who can’t decide between a martini or a
glass of Chard. Complex and nuanced, the soft pal-
ate opens with gentle vanilla, almond and coconut,
leading to a mildly spiced midpalate with hints of
coriander, cardamom and white pepper and wrap-
ping up with lemon zest zing.
abv: 46% Price: $60
91 Peat Barreled Big Gin (USA; Captive Spirits,
Seattle, WA). The peat influence in this
intriguing FrankenGin is very subtle, showing as
just a faint iodine breeze on the palate. Overall, this
gin, which spent four months in emptied Peated
American Single Malt Whiskey barrels from West-
land Distillery, has a light straw tinge and almost
neutral scent, while the palate shows almond, a
juniper-menthol zing, plus a bit of peppery heat on
the finish. Best Buy.
abv: 47% Price: $33
90 Beehive Distilling Barrel Reserve Gin (USA;
Beehive Distilling, Salt Lake City, UT). This
small batch gin starts with a classic London Dry
profile, but takes a surprising turn, aged in charred
French oak barrels that previously held white wine.
The end result is a mild honeysuckle fragrance and
warming, honeyed flavor with a spiced midpalate,
finishing with juniper twang.
abv: 42.5% Price: $39
90 Bourbon Barreled Big Gin (USA; Captive
Spirits, Seattle, WA). Aged for six months
in former Heaven Hill Bourbon barrels, this gin has
a light straw hue and aromas that hint at coconut
and white flowers. The palate builds on that mild
coconut sweetness with vanilla and plenty of spicy
fireworks—coriander, white pepper and cayenne—
finishing flavorful but fairly hot. Recommended to
mix. Best Buy.
abv: 47% Price: $33
90 Stonecutter Spirits Single Barrel Gin (USA;
Stonecutter Spirits, Middlebury, VT). Aged
in former Bourbon barrels for four to six months,
this “Bourbon barreled” gin has a pale straw tinge
and spicy aroma. The palate shows mint, vanilla and
cardamom. The drying, oaky finish sizzles with cin-
namon heat. Sip or mix.
abv: 45% Price: $55
 BEER
The new breeds of IPAs
T
hese days, it feels like it’s impossible to
keep up on the IPA train. This is still, by
far, the most popular craft beer style in the
U.S., and just when you think you’ve seen
it all, leave it to playful American craft brewers
to come up with something completely new and
totally different—varying subcategories or takes
on classic IPAs that use different base styles,
grain bills, techniques and more.
It’s an endless adventure to
try and keep up on the latest
Today, we’re seeing technique-based styles, like
offerings. Though, truthfully, it’s more and more
also a delicious one. experimentation
Back in late 2010, we first
with different
introduced you to a beer style
that was gaining serious traction
colored IPAs.
among producers and drink-
ers alike. The topic of its name was a hot one,
and the debate had a classic east-versus-west
vibe. Both coasts were vying for official recog-
nition of the style—and some serious bragging
rights. The team names, Cascadian Dark Ale in
the west and Black IPA in the east, both tried to
stake their claim in the record books.
The end results? The Brewers Associa-
tion had to step in, listing a new item in their
93 Bruery Terreux Humulus Terreux With Mosaic
Hops (American IPA; Bruery Terreux, CA).
Bruery Terreux is known for specializing in funky,
adventurous, experimental beers of wonder, and
this selection fits seamlessly into their lineup.
Labeled as “a hoppy Brett beer,” it’s the brewery’s
take on an India pale ale that’s 100% fermented
with Brettanomyces. As a result of this, and as
expected, it’s brimming with wild, earthy, funky
notes of barnyard, earth and lemony tartness, but
it’s complemented by a bright hop profile of fresh
citrus, stone and tropical fruits from the Mosaic
hops. More prominent bitterness unfolds on the
medium-weight palate, which is smooth but easygo-
ing, thanks to lively carbonation and a bright, acidic
character from the wild yeast. Final notes of lemon
rind, dried hay, pressed hop flowers and lupulin
powder hang around on the dry finish. A strange but
cool trip, indeed.
abv: 6.3% Price: $20/750 ml
Beer Style Guidelines judging manual for 2010:
American-style Black Ale.
Today, we’re seeing more and more exper-
imentation with different colored IPAs, from
white (using wheat beers as the base style) and
golden (golden/blonde ales) to red (amber/red
ales) and, of course, black. The possibilities
seem somewhat endless.
But beyond mere colors
comes other ingredient- or
rye-based beers or wild ales,
being married to the vibrant
hop profiles of IPAs.
When they work, these mar-
riages showcase the best of two
worlds, often skillfully high-
lighting a strong grain core in addition to a for-
ward hop presence.
Since these substyles aren’t all officially rec-
ognized or classified, it’s not always completely
clear what to expect from any given bottling.
But that just means more reason to try and
taste as broadly as possible, all in the name of
research and good taste.
Prost! —Lauren Buzzeo
91 Coronado Brewing Co. Stem to Stern Batch No
1 Hoppy Red (American IPA; Coronado Brew-
ing Co., CA). Coronado’s Stem to Stern series is all
about experimentation, and the first in the small-
batch series encapsulates just that. A journey of
experimental hops, this is brewed with a hefty dose
of Denali and yet-to-renamed #07277 hops, set
against a red ale backdrop. The result is a highly
aromatic and smooth brew, with assertive scents of
apricots, fresh citrus fruits and peels, as well as a
touch of earthy, woody spice. The palate is smooth
and slightly slick, with a rich malt core that’s
accented by notes of woody spice, toasted nuts and
grains, peach pit and pine resin. It’s a bit of a roller
coaster ride, but one worth the thrill.
abv: 7.7% Price: $9/22 oz
91 Stone Pataskala Red X IPA (American IPA;
Stone Brewing Co., CA). Labeled as “a mas-
sively dry-hopped crimson IPA,” this brew gets
its vibrant red hue from the special German malts
used, called Red X, and its hop profile from the
addition of Mosaic, Cascade and Amarillo hops. The
resulting beer is a pleasant mix of IPA and red ale
characteristics, with bright hop-centric scents of
lemon and orange rind that are countered by a hit
of clean malt. The smooth, medium-bodied palate
boasts a rich, malty core, with flavors of toffee and
toasted bread alongside hints of grapefruit pith and
pine that carry through the mildly astringent finish.
It’s surprisingly balanced, harmonious and easy to
drink, despite the moderate alcohol.
abv: 7.3% Price: $12/12 oz 6 pack
90 Deschutes Swivelhead Red India Style Red
Ale (American IPA; Deschutes Brewery,
OR). This pours a lovely amber-brown color in the
glass, with a solid off-white head that shows good
retention. The bouquet immediately intrigues, with
upfront aromas of caramelized nuts, toffee and
toasted bread that are laced with notes of earthy
hops, grass and light pine. On the palate, the malty
core continues to take center stage, with ripe cara-
mel, biscuit, peach and melon flavors, although the
hops lend a nice, slightly bitter framework that
weaves seamlessly in and out of the experience from
start to finish. Medium bodied, with soft, smooth
carbonation and a lingering dry finish, this is a fun
interpretation of a burgeoning style.
abv: 6.5% Price: $14/12 oz 6 pack
90 Schlafly Black IPA (American-style Black
Ale; The Saint Louis Brewery, MO). Part of
the Hop Allocation Series, this beer was originally
a draft-only selection, but it’s now partially bot-
tled after being brewed in a small batch. It pours
a dark brown, almost black color, with a thick tan
head that leaves nice lacing behind. It showcases a
beautiful balance between the rich, roasty, choco-
laty malt characteristics and the fruity, spicy, piny
hop profile. The mouthfeel is creamy, slightly chewy
and slick, with plush malt flavors that give way to
lingering bitterness by way of roasted coffee bean,
bitter orange peel and pine resin flavors.
abv: 7% Price: $11/12 oz 6 pack
90 Smuttynose Rhye IPA (American IPA; Smut-
tynose Brewing Company, NH). Once a
one-time offering in the brewery’s Big Beer Series
lineup, then introduced as a seasonal selection and
now available year-round, Smutty’s Rhye IPA is an
India pale ale brewed with rye malt. Based off the
brewery’s Finestkind IPA, but tweaked to include
30% rye malt, in addition to a few other small
changes, it’s a flavorful beer that still manages to
show great harmony between the hop, malt and rye
characteristics. Spicy notes of black pepper, rye
and resinous pine unfold throughout, grounded by
a malty core of light caramel and nutty, toasty bread
flavors that are smooth and satisfying. A pleasant
bitterness and spicy rye character lingers long on
the dry finish.
abv: 7% Price: $12/12 oz 6 pack
WINEMAG.COM | 135
 DRY HUMOR

DRINK TO MY HEALTH
How moderation helped hone an appreciation for wine.

A
s a professional journalist since
the summer after high school, I
always subscribed to the wisdom
of Charles Bukowski, the sala-
cious and sodden poet laureate of the Los
Angeles underbelly.
In his poem, “How To Be a Great Writ-
er,” he advises people to “just drink more
beer/more and more beer.” Sex, gambling,
sleeping late and the music of Brahms and
Bach also are recommended, not to men-
tion the avoidance of museums and paying
your credit card bills. But it was the hops
endorsement that really stuck with me.
“Beer,” wrote Bukowski, “is continuous
blood.”
Daily infusions have sustained me
through decades of newspaper gigs and
freelancing in the dig-
ital era, from battered
manual typewriters A few cocktails among
to smartphones. As a friends unlocks storytelling
music and film crit- instincts in even
ic, bars and parties
the shyest person.
have been my natu-
ral habitat. And in the
past few years, especially, the marketing of
small-batch spirits (gin and Bourbon, most-
ly) made me an even more ardent imbiber.
A two-for-one happy hour at a local su-
shi joint with a well-stocked bar anchored
most of my evenings. That was, when I
wasn’t traveling to film festivals in plac-
es like Utah, Montreal or Poland, the latter
a frequent and favorite destination where
vodka flows like tap water.
Over the years, I developed a high toler-
ance. The right company in the right place—
an after-hours hot tub under the stars in
Sarasota, Florida, a bar in Wroclaw, Poland,
that served delicious black-cherry vodka—
was one of life’s great-
est pleasures. Secrets
were told. Iffy judgments
were made. Romances sparked.
Lifetime friendships forged.
A few cocktails among friends un-
locks storytelling instincts in even the
shyest person.
Last fall, however, my cardiologist gave
me scary news that mandated I stop drink-
ing. The decision was easy to make and,
so far, pretty easy to stick with. Men tend
to lose a lot of weight when they cut out
alcohol. I was drinking several hundred cal-
ories a day, so I dropped a ton, aided by a
degreased diet and daily exercise.
As my health recovered, so did my
palate: I began to develop a taste for wine
that I had never really
experienced before. In
the past, I had been
something of a wine
agnostic, enjoying a
glass here and there
but usually defaulting
to something craft-
brewed or distilled. With the harder stuff off
my dance card, I’ve refined my appreciation
for grapes: whether sharing a bottle of
Malbec with friends at a cookout, or
exploring the fine selection of reds at a local
farm-to-table joint, where I occasionally
reward my good behavior with a burger
made from grass-fed beef.
Taking satisfaction from quality rath-
er than quantity has been a useful lesson,
helping to refine my taste for wine in the
same way I’ve cultivated a critical appreci-
ation for film and music. I savor every glass,
good to the last drop.
—Steve Dollar

136 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2017

 D I S C OV E R W H AT L I E S D E E P
I N T H E H E A RT O F S O N O M A .

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diverse appellations of Sonoma.

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C R A F T E D BY K E N W O O D.

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