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Simple Adirondack Chair Plans (Weekend SEARCH...

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August 08, 2020 PAGE CONTENT

Meet the “weekend chair” — it takes just a weekend to build, and you’ll spend many a weekend in it SOCIAL
afterward.

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This chair is built for comfort, with wide arms, a curved back (unlike many commercial Adirondack
chairs), and a deeply scooped seat that’ll make you say “ahhh” every time you sink down into it.
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It’s a cinch to build, too, a great project for the beginning woodworker. All you do is cut out the pieces,
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drill some holes and screw the chair together — no messing around with glue and no fussy joints to cut.
The only power tools you’ll need are a jigsaw and a drill. You do need to use one specialized
woodworking technique: transferring the shapes of the curved parts from the grids in the drawings to
your wood. You’ll see how to do this later, but if you don’t even want to bother with that, you can send
for full-size patterns for the parts.

This chair was made from cedar, because it’s naturally rot resistant and has a rich color. Cypress, heart
redwood, or treated pine would also be good choices, and pine or oak would be acceptable if the chair
is protected from moisture, as on a porch. To make this chair completely weatherproof, I recommend
galvanized deck screws and stainless steel carriage bolts, nuts, and washers. Ordinary steel screws and
bolts rust and discolor the wood.

Cedar is a soft wood. It mars easily, so take care not to dent the pieces when you cut and assemble
them. Cedar also weathers to a gray color, so if you want to keep your chair looking golden brown, give
it a coat of water-repellent preservative every year or so. Ask your paint store for a �nish suitable for
cedar decks.

Enough said. Let’s build the chair.

1 de 13 5/4/2021 22:36
Simple Adirondack Chair Plans (Weekend Build) - BestLife52 https://bestlife52.com/make/adirondack-chair-plans/

Cutting out the pieces

Begin by cutting all the pieces (A-L) to the sizes given in the Cutting List below.

Then cut the curved edges on the parts that need it. To do this, you must transfer the shape of the parts
from the grids on the drawing (Fig. A) to the wood rectangles you just cut. Here’s how.

The arms, seat supports, back slats and arm supports (A, C, E, F, and G) come in pairs — two identical
parts are required for each. The back supports (J and K) are also the same shape, just di�erent lengths.
To save work, transfer the grid shapes for the curved parts to only one of each piece Cut that part out
and use it as a template to mark the remaining piece or pieces

To transfer a shape, draw a grid of 1-in. by 1-in. squares as shown in Fig. A onto the rectangular part.
Working on one square at a time, copy by eye the curved line from our drawing to the grid on your
wood. Use a pencil, lightly.

The trick is to do one square at a time, rather than trying to make the whole curve at once.

Once you’re done, connect the whole thing into a smooth curve.

Since a pencil tends to follow the grain of the wood, giving you an uneven curve, use a �ne-tip felt
marker for the �nal line.

After you’ve transferred the shapes, cut them out and sand the sawn edges (Photos 1 and 2). Notice
that the center back slat (B) is tapered on both sides. Now trace and cut the remaining curved pieces,
Also cut the 45-degree upper ends of the back braces (L).

2 de 13 5/4/2021 22:36
Simple Adirondack Chair Plans (Weekend Build) - BestLife52 https://bestlife52.com/make/adirondack-chair-plans/

Saw the curved parts with a jigsaw and a �ne-tooth blade. Go slowly and cut right on the lines.
This part is the seat support.

Sand the sawn edges with 80-grit sandpaper and a sanding block. Cedar is a soft wood, so only a
little sanding is needed.

Drill the holes

All the screws that hold this chair together have their heads countersunk so they’re �ush with the wood
surface.

Sometimes beginning woodworkers have trouble getting a smooth, chatter-free countersink hole.
The trick is to drill the countersink �rst (Photo 3), then the hole for the shank of the screw.

Don’t get mixed up when you drill the countersink holes in the two back braces (L); there must be a right
and a left one. Make them mirror images instead of identical.

Once you’ve drilled the countersink holes, go back and drill a 1/8-in. “clearance hole” through every
countersink hole. A clearance hole is the same diameter as the screw, as opposed to a pilot hole, which
is narrower.

Drill the bolt holes in the legs (D) and the back ends of the arms (A). The remaining bolt holes in the seat
supports (C) and back braces (L) will be drilled during the assembly.

3 de 13 5/4/2021 22:36
Simple Adirondack Chair Plans (Weekend Build) - BestLife52 https://bestlife52.com/make/adirondack-chair-plans/

Countersink the screw holes before you drill them for smoothest, splinter-free results. Then
screw these slats on to form the seat.

Assemble the seat

Start assembling the seat by screwing the front and rear seat slats (H) to the seat supports. Cedar splits
easily so you should drill a 1/16-in. pilot hole for each screw as you assemble the chair. This will keep
the wood from splitting.

The above photo shows the best pilot hole and countersink drill bit set. It’s the Snappy 40030, American
made and a great quality. It’s fully compatible with quick-change chucks (1/4 hex shank), very practical,
and o�er great value for your money. Click here to see the price at Amazon.

Now line up the remaining seat slats on the seat supports and screw them on. Use a Phillips head driver
bit in your drill to speed this up. Some 1/4-in. thick spacers placed between the seat slats will help you
align them.

Attach the legs

4 de 13 5/4/2021 22:36
Simple Adirondack Chair Plans (Weekend Build) - BestLife52 https://bestlife52.com/make/adirondack-chair-plans/

Clamp the legs (D) to the assembled seat at the location shown in Fig. A.

Use a square to adjust the legs so they are perpendicular to your work surface. When the chair is
resting on four points and the legs are square and in the right location, drill bolt holes through the legs
and seat supports (Photo 4). Bolt the legs and seat supports together.

Drill bolt holes through the leg while it’s clamped to the seat in the proper position. Then bolt
them together with galvanized or stainless steel bolts.

Assemble the back

Line up the center of the center back slat (B) with the center of the lower back support (J), then screw
these pieces together Now cut four 1/4-in. thick x 30-in. long wood spacers.

Arrange the remaining back slats (E and F) on the lower back support with the 1/4-in. spacers placed
between them. Screw the slats on.

Now set the upper back support (K) in position, line up the outer slats so they’re �ush with the ends of
the support, and screw the pieces together (Photo 5).

Finally, screw the assembled back onto the seat through the lower support.

Thin spacers made of scrap wood will help you get the slats perfectly aligned while you screw
them to the back supports.

Attach the arms and braces

Screw the arm supports (G) to the legs, then screw the arms to the legs and arm supports Then screw
the back braces (L) to the upper back support, but don’t screw them to the seat supports yet.

5 de 13 5/4/2021 22:36
Simple Adirondack Chair Plans (Weekend Build) - BestLife52 https://bestlife52.com/make/adirondack-chair-plans/

Align the back edges of the arms with the back braces. drill the bolt holes through them both (Photo 6),
and attach the carriage bolts Now screw the back braces to the seat supports.

Drill the bolt holes through the arms and back braces at once, rather than trying to get holes to
line up. Make sure the back edges are �ush.

Apply the exterior �nish

I know this sounds crazy, but the best way to apply wood preservative or another �nish to your
chair is to take it completely apart — it doesn’t take that long — and �nish the parts separately.

This allows the �nish to penetrate evenly and thoroughly, especially the end grain, which is most subject
to rot.

With the chair disassembled, sand the parts, especially the exposed edges, and apply the wood
preservative following the directions on the can. Be sure to rest the pieces on their backsides or
unexposed edges so the �nish will dry evenly and not leave marks.

Apply at least two coats of �nish. When it’s dry, reassemble the chair, sit back and relax!

6 de 13 5/4/2021 22:36
Simple Adirondack Chair Plans (Weekend Build) - BestLife52 https://bestlife52.com/make/adirondack-chair-plans/

Cutting list

Key Pcs. Size Description

A 2 3/4" x 6" x 30" cedar Arms

B 1 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 29" cedar Center back slat

C 2 3/4" x 5" x 40" cedar Seat supports

D 2 3/4" x 4-1/2" x 20" cedar Legs

E 2 3/4" x 3-1/4" x 28-3/4" cedar Back slats

F 2 3/4" x 3-1/4" x 27-1/2" cedar Back slats

G 2 3/4" x 3" x 6" cedar Arm supports

H 8 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 20" cedar Seat slats

J 1 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 20" cedar Lower back support

K 1 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 18-1/2" cedar Upper back support

L 2 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 25" cedar Back braces

Shopping list

Item Qty.

1" x 8" x 8' cedar 1

1" x 6" x 8' cedar 3

1" x 4" x 8' cedar 2

No. 8 x 1-5/8" galvanized deck screws 63

No. 20 x 1-1/4" x 2" stainless steel carriage bolts, �at and lock washers and nuts 2

No. 20 x 1-1/4" x 3" stainless steel carriage bolts, �at and lock washers and nuts 42

Wood preservative 1 quart

Meet the “weekend chair” — it takes just a weekend to build, and you’ll spend many a weekend in it
afterward.

This chair is built for comfort, with wide arms, a curved back (unlike many commercial Adirondack
chairs), and a deeply scooped seat that’ll make you say “ahhh” every time you sink down into it.

7 de 13 5/4/2021 22:36
Simple Adirondack Chair Plans (Weekend Build) - BestLife52 https://bestlife52.com/make/adirondack-chair-plans/

It’s a cinch to build, too, a great project for the beginning woodworker. All you do is cut out the pieces,
drill some holes and screw the chair together — no messing around with glue and no fussy joints to cut.
The only power tools you’ll need are a jigsaw and a drill. You do need to use one specialized
woodworking technique: transferring the shapes of the curved parts from the grids in the drawings to
your wood. You’ll see how to do this later, but if you don’t even want to bother with that, you can send
for full-size patterns for the parts.

This chair was made from cedar, because it’s naturally rot resistant and has a rich color. Cypress, heart
redwood, or treated pine would also be good choices, and pine or oak would be acceptable if the chair
is protected from moisture, as on a porch. To make this chair completely weatherproof, I recommend
galvanized deck screws and stainless steel carriage bolts, nuts, and washers. Ordinary steel screws and
bolts rust and discolor the wood.

Cedar is a soft wood. It mars easily, so take care not to dent the pieces when you cut and assemble
them. Cedar also weathers to a gray color, so if you want to keep your chair looking golden brown, give
it a coat of water-repellent preservative every year or so. Ask your paint store for a �nish suitable for
cedar decks.

Enough said. Let’s build the chair.

Cutting out the pieces

Begin by cutting all the pieces (A-L) to the sizes given in the Cutting List below.

Then cut the curved edges on the parts that need it. To do this, you must transfer the shape of the parts
from the grids on the drawing (Fig. A) to the wood rectangles you just cut. Here’s how.

The arms, seat supports, back slats and arm supports (A, C, E, F, and G) come in pairs — two identical
parts are required for each. The back supports (J and K) are also the same shape, just di�erent lengths.
To save work, transfer the grid shapes for the curved parts to only one of each piece Cut that part out

8 de 13 5/4/2021 22:36
Simple Adirondack Chair Plans (Weekend Build) - BestLife52 https://bestlife52.com/make/adirondack-chair-plans/

and use it as a template to mark the remaining piece or pieces

To transfer a shape, draw a grid of 1-in. by 1-in. squares as shown in Fig. A onto the rectangular part.
Working on one square at a time, copy by eye the curved line from our drawing to the grid on your
wood. Use a pencil, lightly.

The trick is to do one square at a time, rather than trying to make the whole curve at once.

Once you’re done, connect the whole thing into a smooth curve.

Since a pencil tends to follow the grain of the wood, giving you an uneven curve, use a �ne-tip felt
marker for the �nal line.

After you’ve transferred the shapes, cut them out and sand the sawn edges (Photos 1 and 2). Notice
that the center back slat (B) is tapered on both sides. Now trace and cut the remaining curved pieces,
Also cut the 45-degree upper ends of the back braces (L).

Saw the curved parts with a jigsaw and a �ne-tooth blade. Go slowly and cut right on the lines.
This part is the seat support.

Sand the sawn edges with 80-grit sandpaper and a sanding block. Cedar is a soft wood, so only a
little sanding is needed.

Drill the holes

All the screws that hold this chair together have their heads countersunk so they’re �ush with the wood
surface.

Sometimes beginning woodworkers have trouble getting a smooth, chatter-free countersink hole.
The trick is to drill the countersink �rst (Photo 3), then the hole for the shank of the screw.

Don’t get mixed up when you drill the countersink holes in the two back braces (L); there must be a right
and a left one. Make them mirror images instead of identical.

Once you’ve drilled the countersink holes, go back and drill a 1/8-in. “clearance hole” through every
countersink hole. A clearance hole is the same diameter as the screw, as opposed to a pilot hole, which
is narrower.

Drill the bolt holes in the legs (D) and the back ends of the arms (A). The remaining bolt holes in the seat
supports (C) and back braces (L) will be drilled during the assembly.

9 de 13 5/4/2021 22:36
Simple Adirondack Chair Plans (Weekend Build) - BestLife52 https://bestlife52.com/make/adirondack-chair-plans/

Countersink the screw holes before you drill them for smoothest, splinter-free results. Then
screw these slats on to form the seat.

Assemble the seat

Start assembling the seat by screwing the front and rear seat slats (H) to the seat supports. Cedar splits
easily so you should drill a 1/16-in. pilot hole for each screw as you assemble the chair. This will keep
the wood from splitting.

The above photo shows the best pilot hole and countersink drill bit set. It’s the Snappy 40030, American
made and a great quality. It’s fully compatible with quick-change chucks (1/4 hex shank), very practical,
and o�er great value for your money. Click here to see the price at Amazon.

Now line up the remaining seat slats on the seat supports and screw them on. Use a Phillips head driver
bit in your drill to speed this up. Some 1/4-in. thick spacers placed between the seat slats will help you
align them.

Attach the legs

10 de 13 5/4/2021 22:36
Simple Adirondack Chair Plans (Weekend Build) - BestLife52 https://bestlife52.com/make/adirondack-chair-plans/

Clamp the legs (D) to the assembled seat at the location shown in Fig. A.

Use a square to adjust the legs so they are perpendicular to your work surface. When the chair is
resting on four points and the legs are square and in the right location, drill bolt holes through the legs
and seat supports (Photo 4). Bolt the legs and seat supports together.

Drill bolt holes through the leg while it’s clamped to the seat in the proper position. Then bolt
them together with galvanized or stainless steel bolts.

Assemble the back

Line up the center of the center back slat (B) with the center of the lower back support (J), then screw
these pieces together Now cut four 1/4-in. thick x 30-in. long wood spacers.

Arrange the remaining back slats (E and F) on the lower back support with the 1/4-in. spacers placed
between them. Screw the slats on.

Now set the upper back support (K) in position, line up the outer slats so they’re �ush with the ends of
the support, and screw the pieces together (Photo 5).

Finally, screw the assembled back onto the seat through the lower support.

Thin spacers made of scrap wood will help you get the slats perfectly aligned while you screw
them to the back supports.

Attach the arms and braces

Screw the arm supports (G) to the legs, then screw the arms to the legs and arm supports Then screw
the back braces (L) to the upper back support, but don’t screw them to the seat supports yet.

11 de 13 5/4/2021 22:36
Simple Adirondack Chair Plans (Weekend Build) - BestLife52 https://bestlife52.com/make/adirondack-chair-plans/

Align the back edges of the arms with the back braces. drill the bolt holes through them both (Photo 6),
and attach the carriage bolts Now screw the back braces to the seat supports.

Drill the bolt holes through the arms and back braces at once, rather than trying to get holes to
line up. Make sure the back edges are �ush.

Apply the exterior �nish

I know this sounds crazy, but the best way to apply wood preservative or another �nish to your
chair is to take it completely apart — it doesn’t take that long — and �nish the parts separately.

This allows the �nish to penetrate evenly and thoroughly, especially the end grain, which is most subject
to rot.

With the chair disassembled, sand the parts, especially the exposed edges, and apply the wood
preservative following the directions on the can. Be sure to rest the pieces on their backsides or
© 2020 BestLife52. BestLife52 is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an a�liate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising
unexposed edges so the �nish will dry evenly and not leave marks.
fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com, Amazon.co.uk or Amazon.ca. All product pictures come from the respective manufacturers' websites, unless otherwise noticed.

Apply at least two coats of �nish. When it’s dry, reassemble the chair, sit back and relax!

12 de 13 5/4/2021 22:36
Simple Adirondack Chair Plans (Weekend Build) - BestLife52 https://bestlife52.com/make/adirondack-chair-plans/

Cutting list

Key Pcs. Size Description

A 2 3/4" x 6" x 30" cedar Arms

B 1 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 29" cedar Center back slat

C 2 3/4" x 5" x 40" cedar Seat supports

D 2 3/4" x 4-1/2" x 20" cedar Legs

E 2 3/4" x 3-1/4" x 28-3/4" cedar Back slats

F 2 3/4" x 3-1/4" x 27-1/2" cedar Back slats

G 2 3/4" x 3" x 6" cedar Arm supports

H 8 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 20" cedar Seat slats

J 1 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 20" cedar Lower back support

K 1 3/4" x 2-1/2" x 18-1/2" cedar Upper back support

L 2 3/4" x 1-1/2" x 25" cedar Back braces

Shopping list

Item Qty.

1" x 8" x 8' cedar 1

1" x 6" x 8' cedar 3

1" x 4" x 8' cedar 2

No. 8 x 1-5/8" galvanized deck screws 63

No. 20 x 1-1/4" x 2" stainless steel carriage bolts, �at and lock washers and nuts 2

No. 20 x 1-1/4" x 3" stainless steel carriage bolts, �at and lock washers and nuts 42

Wood preservative 1 quart

13 de 13 5/4/2021 22:36