SPF from 8 to 14: maximum 40-min water resistance properties

SPF from 15 to 29: maximum 2-h water resistance properties

SPF > 30: maximum 4-h water resistance properties
Cosmetics 2017, 4, 15 7 of 11
8. Formulation Solutions
A precise formulation strategy has to be set in order to match with all the described
(6) Use polar solvents to inhibit Norrish-Type-I cleavage of Avobenzone (Paraffin is bad, Ethanol
requirements (SPF, UVA, Critical wavelength, water resistance). Moreover, one should consider
is good);
other variables, like the solubility and stability of some UV filters and, being cosmetic items, the
sensorial
This aspects.
important phase requires also some considerations concerning:
Particularly for the high SPF values, the best starting point is the selection of the right
(a) The type
combination ofof
UVB finalandusers.
UVA The useable
filters, of Octocrylene, Ethlylhexyl
to reach the right Methoxycinnamate
broad spectrum protection and andthePABA
best
derivatives
possible stability.isInnot suggested
this phase, theforuse
consumers with sensitive
of a well-known, alreadyskin or forformula,
tested, baby products [30].
the suggestions of
the The
(b) suppliers
market: and/or
Europe, the Japan,useUSA,ofetc.,a similarly
sunscreen
to whatsimulator
happens freely available also
for test methods, online
the
(https://www.sunscreensimulator.basf.com)
number of available sunscreen ingredients areis some possible
different starting
according to theapproach. Usually, the
different legislations. In
blending
USAof(where
a highsunscreen
number of UV filters
products are at lowaspercentage
sold OTC and not is better than a products)
as cosmetic combination the of two or
available
threenumber
of them of at UV
highfilters
percentage, both limited
is extremely for safetyin concerns
comparison andtoalso to achieve
Europe. a synergic
Also their maximum combination
allowed
of effects. The ideal
percentages areaim is thecases
in many highest possible
different protection
(Ethlylhexyl with the minimum
Methoxycinnamate possible
allowed amount
at 10% of UV
in Europe,
filters.
at Moreover,
20% in Japan); a high amount of sunscreen ingredients is often associated to a bad (greasy or
waxy)If final
(c) perception
a water resistanton the skin.
formula Some good
is requested, combinations
the could be:
use of hydrosoluble UV filters (Phenylbenzimidazol
Sulfonic Acid) could be a bad idea;
(a) Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate and Ethylhexyl Triazone in 3:1 ratio [24];
(b) Among
Octocrylene and
filters, theButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
selection of inorganic filters is aninincreasing
a ratio of more
trend orforless
the3:1 [25]; of ‘natural’
request
(c) Octocrylene + Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane + Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol
claims. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are the most widely used metal oxides as UV Methoxyphenyl
filters. They
Triazine [26];
are efficient, almost photostable, absorb the UVB and UVA radiations and re-emit them mainly as
(d) Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol
visible fluorescence or heat. For their Methoxyphenyl Triazine
chemical-physical (Bemotrizinol)
characteristics, + Diethylhexyl
the surface of the twoButamido
pigments
has toTriazone
be coated+ Butyl
with Methoxydibenzoylmethane
“inert” substances like silica, (based on our
alumina, experience,
stearic acid or unpublished data). If
silicone compounds.
uncoated, TiO2 surface,
Moreover, after UV
the addition absorption,
of small amountemits excited electrons,
of inorganic UV filterswhich
helpscan generate
to boost thefree
SPFradicals,
values,
resulting in oxidative damages into the dermal layers. On the other side, ZnO, if uncoated,
because solids are able to scatter the UV rays and increase their probability to hit and interfere with can
modify the pH of the product as it tends to turn partially into Zn hydroxides, partially releasing OH −
the molecules of ‘chemical’ UV filters.
ions in
Thetheuse
system [31].Methoxydibenzoylmethane
of Butyl Moreover, the coating prevents the agglomeration
(Avobenzone) is almostofessential
particlesto and keephigh
reach the
pigments well dispersed in the system, while improving the stability and UV
UVA protection, but it has to be adequately stabilized in order to avoid the undesired protection efficacy of the
sunscreen product. reaction (Figure 2):
photo-ketonisation

Figure 2. Irreversible photoreactions of Avobenzone [27].

Figure 2. Irreversible photoreactions of Avobenzone [27].

The stabilization of Avobenzone could be reached by using different strategies [28,29]:

Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are especially used in their ‘nano-sized’ form for many reasons.
(1) nanosize
The The rightdimension
stabilizers:enhances the protection capacity [32]. Moreover, the smaller the particles,
the higher the homogeneity of the layer onto the skin, the better the coverage of the epidermis.
Finally, for particle size of about 35 nm, nanoparticles are big enough to absorb, scatter and reflect
short-wavelength UV radiation while they keep invisible to the longer-wavelength, visible light. In
this way, the sunscreen formulation is transparent to the eyes. The optimum particle size for high UVB
and UVA attenuation but good transparency is between 40 nm and 60 nm [33] (see Figure 3).