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Am J Clin Dermatol 2010; 11 (6): 413-421

ORIGINAL RESEARCH ARTICLE 1175-0561/10/0006-0413/$49.95/0

ª 2010 Adis Data Information BV. All rights reserved.

Characterization of the UVA Protection Provided by


Avobenzone, Zinc Oxide, and Titanium Dioxide in
Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen Products
Donathan G. Beasley and Thomas A. Meyer
Merck Consumer Care, Memphis, Tennessee, USA

Abstract Background: Solar UV radiation (UVR) is composed of UVB (290–320 nm) and UVA (320–400 nm)
wavelengths. Only two sunscreen active ingredients approved in the US, avobenzone (butylmethoxy-
dibenzoylmethane) and zinc oxide (ZnO), provide true broad-spectrum protection against UVA wave-
lengths >360 nm. Although effective against shorter UVR wavelengths <360 nm, titanium dioxide (TiO2) is
also often believed to confer broad-spectrum protection and is substituted for ZnO or avobenzone. To sus-
tain its absorption capacity within a sunscreen film during UVR exposure, avobenzone needs to be for-
mulated into sunscreen products using sound formulation strategies.
Objectives: To characterize the efficacy of avobenzone, ZnO, and TiO2 in terms of their abilities to provide
broad UVA protection and to demonstrate the effectiveness of the different formulation strategies used
today to maintain the efficacy of avobenzone even during prolonged exposures to UVR.
Methods: UVA efficacy was assessed by measuring absorbance profiles in vitro using Vitro Skin (IMS Inc.,
Orange, CT, USA) as an inert substrate and by determining UVA protection factors (PFA) on human skin.
The impact of avobenzone loss on sun protection factor (SPF) and PFA values was evaluated by serially
reducing avobenzone concentrations in an otherwise photostable product. The photostabilizing influence of
specific formulation ingredients was monitored by measuring the extent to which they prevented UVR-
induced degradation of avobenzone, whereas photostability of commercial sunscreen products was quan-
tified by measuring the percentage change in absorbance within the UVB and UVA spectral regions fol-
lowing irradiation of thin product films on inert substrates.
Results: Model formulations containing 3% avobenzone or 5% ZnO provided superior attenuation of UVA
wavelengths >360 nm compared with formulas containing 5% TiO2. Additionally, sunscreen products of similar
SPF containing avobenzone or ZnO exhibited significantly higher PFA values than those containing TiO2. The
addition of photostabilized avobenzone or ZnO increased PFA values nearly 3-fold, whereas the addition of
TiO2 increased PFA values only modestly. Judicious selection of sunscreen actives alone or in combination with
extra stabilizing agents maintained the photostability of avobenzone in formulations to deliver sustained broad-
spectrum absorbance during 4 hours of exposure to UVR. Small losses (<20%) of avobenzone did not signi-
ficantly reduce a product’s protective effects as measured by SPF and PFA values on human skin.
Conclusions: TiO2 provided neither the same level of UVA attenuation nor the same degree of UVA protection
on human skin as did products containing photostabilized avobenzone or ZnO. Hence, TiO2 cannot be
considered a substitute for avobenzone or ZnO in providing high levels of UVA protection to human skin. Use
of proper formulation strategies can ensure that avobenzone losses are minimized to the extent that they have no
impact on a product’s ability to deliver sustained protection, even over periods of prolonged exposure to UVR.

Solar UV radiation (UVR) is comprised of UVB (290– associated with erythema,[1] immunosuppression,[2] photoaging,[3]
320 nm) and UVA (320–400 nm) wavelengths, with the latter and skin cancer.[4] Although UVB is more potent in eliciting
accounting for about 94% of the UVR reaching the Earth’s sur- skin responses, such as erythema and edema, mounting scien-
face. Overexposure of unprotected skin to UVR induces damage tific evidence also suggests that UVA contributes significantly
414 Beasley & Meyer

to skin damage, including photodermatoses,[5] photoaging,[6-8] regularly dotting the lotion across its surface and then spread-
and skin cancer.[9-11] The growing substantiation of the harmful ing the lotion evenly across the substrate using a finger covered
effects of UVA radiation provides a compelling reason for with a finger cot. After application, substrates were mounted in
sunscreen products to protect skin from both UVB and UVA in 6 · 7 cm photographic slide mounts and air-dried for 20 min-
a balanced manner. Sunscreen products with values of sun utes. An untreated, hydrated Vitro Skin film served as a ref-
protection factor (SPF) >15 must attenuate significant levels of erence and was also slide-mounted and air-dried for 20 minutes.
shorter UVA wavelengths (320–360 nm) in order to meet their An average absorbance profile (290–400 nm) for each product
labeled SPF claim.[12] However, with the increasing recognition film was determined using an SPF 290S Analyzer (Optometrics
of the need for greater levels of UVA protection, sunscreen LLC, Ayer, MA, USA) equipped with a computer-controlled
products in the US today typically contain either avobenzone X-Y sampling stage that recorded 12 absorbance profiles from
(butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane) or zinc oxide (ZnO) for ex- different, nonoverlapping locations on each Vitro Skin film
tended UVA coverage beyond 360 nm. mount. The variability in area under UVB and UVA spectral
Avobenzone and ZnO are the only UVA sunscreen actives regions between locations on each substrate was <4%, in-
approved for use in the US capable of conferring protection dicating that products were spread uniformly across the sub-
against UVA wavelengths >360 nm. Although effective against strate’s surface and that the method yielded highly reproducible
UVR wavelengths <360 nm, titanium dioxide (TiO2) is some- results.
times considered to be an alternative option to avobenzone
or ZnO against wavelengths up to and beyond 360 nm. Avo- Preparation of Model Formulations
benzone is an organic molecule and attenuates UVR by ab-
sorption, whereas ZnO and TiO2 are inorganic molecules that All model formulations were water-in-oil emulsions pre-
attenuate UVR through absorption and scattering mechanisms. pared using 5% PEG-12 dimethicone cross-polymer as the
US FDA guidelines currently exclude combinations of avoben- emulsifier and containing either 3% avobenzone (Neo Helio-
zone with either of these inorganic actives in sunscreen prod- pan 357; Symrise, Inc., Teterboro, NJ, USA), 5% ZnO
ucts;[13] as a consequence, products usually contain only one of (Z-Cote HP1; BASF Corp., Florham Park, NJ, USA) or 5%
these ingredients or possibly a combination of TiO2 with ZnO. TiO2 (TNP50M170; Kobo Products, Inc., South Plainfield, NJ,
In a previous comparative study, ZnO was shown to provide USA) as single sunscreen active ingredients. The oil phase ad-
more effective UVA absorbance than TiO2, especially at the ditionally comprised 12% cyclopentasiloxane, 4% bis-hydroxyeth-
higher UVA wavelengths >340 nm.[14] However, this study did oxypropyl dimethicone, and 7.0–31.5% di-isobutyl adipate. The
not compare the effectiveness of these ingredients against avo- water phase contained 5% propylene glycol and 0.5% sodium
benzone, nor did it provide comparative measurements of UVA chloride, which was added to the oil phase under constant mixing
protection factors on human skin. In order to sustain its absorp- to give final compositions.
tion capacity within a sunscreen film during UVR exposure,
avobenzone needs to be formulated into sunscreen products Human UVA Testing
using sound formulation strategies. The objectives of this study
were to characterize the effectiveness of avobenzone, ZnO, and UVA protection factors (PFA) were determined using
TiO2 in conferring UVA protection and to demystify the main methodology that employed delayed erythema as the biologic
formulation strategies used today to sustain the capacity of endpoint,[15] as previously recommended by the FDA.[16] All
avobenzone to absorb UVA even after prolonged exposure to calculated PFA values represent the mean of five to ten separate
UVR. measurements. Studies have shown that in vivo methods based
on either delayed erythema or persistent pigment darkening as
endpoints to measure the extent to which sunscreen products
Methods
provide protection against UVA radiation yield comparable
Measurement of Absorbance Profiles results and may be used interchangeably.[17]

The absorbance profiles of sunscreen products were meas- Photostability Assessment


ured using Vitro Skin (IMS Inc., Orange, CT, USA) as the
substrate. Test lotions were drawn up into a syringe and applied Photostability of avobenzone in product vehicles was eval-
to 50 cm2 of substrate at an application density of 2 mL/cm2 by uated using two different methods. In one method, the per-

ª 2010 Adis Data Information BV. All rights reserved. Am J Clin Dermatol 2010; 11 (6)
UVA Protection of Avobenzone, Zinc Oxide, and Titanium Dioxide 415

centage of the original avobenzone remaining after UVR ex- Results


posure was tracked to assess the impact of various formulation
ingredients on their ability to maintain the intact chemical Attenuation Profiles for Single Ingredients in a Model
structure of avobenzone during irradiation. In this method, Formula
known weights (14–18 mg) of avobenzone-containing sun-
screen formulations were spread onto glass microscope slides The attenuation profiles of films of model sunscreen formulas
using a finger cot-covered finger at an application density of containing either avobenzone, ZnO, or TiO2 as single ingre-
approximately 2 mg/cm2. The glass slides were then air-dried in dients at common usage concentrations are shown in figure 1.
the dark for at least 20 minutes prior to irradiation. Non- Avobenzone at a 3% concentration provided greater attenu-
irradiated, product-treated glass slides served as controls and ation of radiation across the entire UVA spectrum than 5%
were stored in the dark until extraction. Each product-treated TiO2. In contrast, ZnO at a concentration of 5% appeared to
glass slide was positioned on a turntable and irradiated at a offer greater attenuation only at UVA wavelengths >360 nm
distance of 120 cm from the UVR source, using a 1000 watt relative to 5% TiO2, although the magnitude of difference ob-
xenon arc solar simulator (Spectral Energy, Washingtonville, served with ZnO was lower than that observed with avobenzone.
NY, USA) filtered with a WG320 filter (Light Company, Inc.,
Glenside, PA, USA). This configuration prevents heating is- Formulation Strategies to Preserve the Chemical Integrity
sues, as measured with a thermocouple on the substrate’s sur- of Avobenzone
face, so that all substrates were maintained at ambient
temperatures during irradiation. Each product was tested in There are three main formulation strategies that can be used
triplicate and irradiated with doses of 20, 40, 60, and 80 joules/cm2. to preserve the intact chemical structure of avobenzone during
The output of the source was measured using an OL 754 UVR exposure, including (i) avoiding use of photochemically
Spectroradiometer (Optronics Laboratories, Inc., Orlando, incompatible ingredients; (ii) leveraging the stabilizing power of
FL, USA) prior to irradiation. Based on previously published sunscreen actives; and (iii) using additional photostabilizers
measurements[18] of outdoor sunlight, each 20-joule increment when sunscreen actives themselves are insufficient. The first
(3.6 minimal erythemal doses) corresponds to an exposure of strategy is illustrated by the use of octinoxate as an incompat-
about 1 hour of midday June sun in Memphis, TN, USA. After ible ingredient. When a thin film containing octinoxate and
irradiation, product-treated slides were extracted with isopro-
panol and UV spectra were recorded using a Lambda 40 5% TiO2
3% Avobenzone
spectrophotometer (PerkinElmer, Wellesley, MA, USA). 5% ZnO
Avobenzone loss was monitored by following changes in ab- 2.5
sorbance at 360 nm, which was corrected for background
contributions from other sunscreen actives. Calculated values
2.0
of avobenzone represent the mean from three separate deter-
minations with standard deviations typically <2%.
Absorbance units

The second method measured the photostability of com- 1.5


mercial sunscreen products over the full UV spectrum. In this
method, thin product films were prepared on Vitro Skin and
1.0
irradiated with increments of 20 joules/cm2 up to and including
100 joules/cm2 using the same calibrated solar simulator
and procedures as described above. Prior to and after each 0.5
successive increment of UVR exposure, an average absorbance
profile was computed from 12 individual scans from non-
0
overlapping spots on each substrate using the SPF 290S Ana- 300 320 340 360 380
lyzer and was used to calculate areas under the UVB UVB UVA
(290–320 nm) and UVA (320–400 nm) spectral regions. Photo- Wavelength (nm)
stability was then monitored by following changes in area
Fig. 1. Comparison of UV attenuation profiles for avobenzone, zinc oxide
under the UVB and UVA spectral regions as a function of UVR (ZnO), and titanium dioxide (TiO2) as single ingredients in a model for-
dose. mulation.

ª 2010 Adis Data Information BV. All rights reserved. Am J Clin Dermatol 2010; 11 (6)
416 Beasley & Meyer

Before UV exposure
1-hour UV exposure
When the types and concentrations of sunscreen actives were
2-hour UV exposure insufficient (i.e. no octocrylene), addition of the special photo-
3-hour UV exposure
4-hour UV exposure
stabilizers diethylhexyl-2,6-naphthalate (DEHN) 5% or dieth-
Loss of octinoxate ylhexylsyringylidene malonate (DESM) 2% augmented the
photostability of avobenzone by about 30% relative to the base
2.5
formula after 4 hours of UVR exposure (figure 5).
2.0
Absorbance units

1.5 Loss of avobenzone Comparison of Photostability Profiles for Commercial


Products
1.0

0.5 Three commercial sunscreen products sold in the US were


assessed for their ability to maintain their absorbance within
0
300 320 340 360 380 400
UVB and UVA spectral regions as the thin product films were
UVB UVA exposed to varying doses of UVR. The types and concen-
Wavelength (nm) trations of sunscreen actives contained in each product were
listed on their back labels, which included:
Fig. 2. Loss of absorbance in UVB and UVA spectral regions as octinoxate
and avobenzone undergo a destructive photochemical reaction in an emul-
 Product M: SPF 45, containing 2% avobenzone, 7.5%
sion film irradiated with UV radiation over 4 hours. octinoxate, 6% oxybenzone, 12% homosalate, and 5%
octisalate;
 Product K: SPF 50, containing 3% avobenzone, 7%
avobenzone was irradiated (figure 2), octinoxate reacted with octocrylene, 4% oxybenzone, 13% homosalate, and 5%
avobenzone photochemically in an irreversible manner, which octisalate;
destroyed the UVR absorption properties of both molecules.  Product G: SPF 45, containing 3% avobenzone, 2.4%
The incompatibility of octinoxate is believed to stem from the octocrylene, 6% oxybenzone, 15% homosalate, 5% octisa-
presence of an exocyclic double bond, which undergoes an al- late, plus an unspecified amount of the stabilizer DEHN.
lowed photochemical (2 + 2) reaction with avobenzone to form Figure 6 illustrates the extent to which the photostability of
primary photoproducts that subsequently collapse to form a sunscreen actives affected the absorbance properties of the
range of degradation products.[19-21] three commercial products. As expected, the nonphotostable
The second strategy is exemplified in figure 3, which shows product (M) containing octinoxate lost significant absorption
that other sunscreen actives commonly used in the US can en-
hance the photostability of avobenzone. As a single sunscreen
With 10% octocrylene
active present in an emulsion, avobenzone degraded chemically
With 6% oxybenzone
by about 60% after 1 hour and 90% after 4 hours of UVR With 5% octisalate and 12% homosalate
Avobenzone alone
exposure. The addition of individual sunscreen actives to the
100
same emulsion substantially boosted the photostability of
avobenzone. Octocrylene (10%) maintained the chemical struc-
80
Avobenzone remaining (%)

ture of avobenzone virtually intact, whereas oxybenzone (6%)


maintained about 70% of the original concentration of avo-
60
benzone after 4 hours of UVR exposure. Octisalate (5%) and
homosalate (12%) were much less effective but still provided
40
modest benefits compared with avobenzone alone. These re-
sults demonstrate the power of individual sunscreen actives to
20
photostabilize avobenzone when thin films of emulsions are
exposed to UVR over extended durations. When used in combi-
0
nation at lower concentrations (7% octocrylene, 4% oxy- 0 1 2 3 4
benzone, 5% octisalate, 13% homosalate), sunscreen actives Duration of UVR exposure (h)

themselves provided complete stabilization of avobenzone Fig. 3. Individual sunscreen actives can improve the photostability of avo-
during UVR exposure (figure 4). benzone in emulsion films irradiated over 4 hours with UV radiation (UVR).

ª 2010 Adis Data Information BV. All rights reserved. Am J Clin Dermatol 2010; 11 (6)
UVA Protection of Avobenzone, Zinc Oxide, and Titanium Dioxide 417

Emulsion with 3% avobenzone, 5% octisalate,


protection observed as avobenzone was reduced became sig-
13% homosalate, 4% oxybenzone, 7% octocrylene
Emulsion with 3% avobenzone alone nificant when the PFA and SPF values were reduced by ‡33%
100
and ‡66%, respectively, corresponding to avobenzone reduc-
tions of 1% and 2%. Small losses in avobenzone (<20%) did not
appear to significantly reduce the product’s protective qualities.
Avobenzone remaining (%)

80

60
Effectiveness of UVA Protection on Human Skin

40 As a final measure of efficacy, we tested the ability of several


commercially available products of comparable SPF (each with
20
avobenzone, TiO2, or ZnO as the main UVA sunscreen active
ingredient) to confer broad-spectrum protection by measuring
0
0 1 2 3 4 PFA values on human skin. Results appear in table I and
Duration of UVR exposure (h) highlight several salient points. Products with 3% avobenzone
Fig. 4. Mixtures of the right types and concentrations of sunscreen actives (product L) or 5% ZnO (product H) exhibited as much as twice
as the only stabilizers can photostabilize avobenzone over 4 hours of UV the PFA as those with varying concentrations of TiO2 (prod-
radiation (UVR) exposure compared with the same emulsion that contained ucts B, D, and E). Product J, which contained only oxybenzone
only avobenzone.
(at the maximum allowed concentration) as the UVA sunscreen
active, had the lowest PFA value. The addition of photo-
capacity within UVB and UVA regions, by 20% and 42% re- stabilized avobenzone or ZnO to oxybenzone (products L and
spectively. In contrast, the photostable products (K, G), which H, respectively) greatly increased PFA values, compared with
contained stabilizing levels of sunscreen actives and/or DEHN the addition of TiO2 (product D).
as an extra stabilizer, sustained their absorption capacity with
only minor losses (1–5%) across both UVB and UVA regions.
Discussion

Impact of Avobenzone Loss on Protection Factors To our knowledge, this is the first study to compare the
UVA protection of avobenzone, ZnO, and TiO2 in a manner
To illustrate how the protective qualities of a non-
that reflects real-world sunscreen product usage. Commercial
photostable product can be adversely affected during UVR
exposure, we determined SPF and PFA values on human skin
for a series of photostable formulations, in which the concen- Emulsion with sunscreens + extra stabilizers
Emulsion with sunscreens (3% avobenzone,
tration of avobenzone (3%) in an original SPF 50 formula was 5% octisalate, 15% homosalate, 6% oxybenzone)
serially reduced by 20%, 33%, 66%, and 100% (i.e. removed 3% avobenzone alone

completely). Apart from the reduction in avobenzone, the 100


formulas were otherwise identical in the makeup of the other
Avobenzone remaining (%)

sunscreen actives (7% octocrylene, 4% oxybenzone, 5% octi- 80

salate, 13% homosalate) and inactive ingredients. Since the


60
other sunscreen actives were unchanged in this experimental
approach, all the formulas maintained absorbance within the 40
UVB region to about the same extent while reducing their levels
of UVA absorbance. This enabled the impact of avobenzone 20
loss on PFA to be examined in a way that mimicked what could
occur on human skin if avobenzone degraded during periods of 0
0 1 2 3 4
UVR exposure. Duration of UVR exposure (h)
The impact on PFA and SPF of reducing avobenzone con-
Fig. 5. Addition of diethylhexyl-2,6-naphthalate (5%) or diethylhexylsy-
centrations in an SPF 50 sunscreen product appears in figure 7.
ringylidene malonate (2%) as extra stabilizers to an emulsion that lacked the
Reductions in avobenzone concentrations resulted in a linear right mixture of sunscreen actives (i.e. no octocrylene) can augment the
loss of protection, as measured by PFA and SPF. The loss of photostability of avobenzone over 4 hours of UV radiation (UVR) exposure.

ª 2010 Adis Data Information BV. All rights reserved. Am J Clin Dermatol 2010; 11 (6)
418 Beasley & Meyer

sunscreen products typically contain avobenzone concen- whitening than TiO2.[23] Hence, by comparison, avobenzone
trations of 2–3%, ZnO concentrations of up to 5%, or TiO2 and ZnO attenuate longer UVA wavelengths more effectively
concentrations of 2–9%. UV attenuation profiles of model than attenuation grades of TiO2.
formulas containing each sunscreen active at typical concen- Although avobenzone is a highly efficient absorber of UVA,
trations were measured, and the UVA absorbance efficiencies its ability to sustain its absorption capacity during exposure to
of avobenzone, ZnO, and TiO2 were compared. The results UVR is highly dependent upon its chemical environment.[19-26]
showed that both avobenzone and ZnO were more efficient Studies have established that the photostability of avobenzone
than TiO2 at attenuating UVA radiation, particularly at can be significantly improved by controlling solvent polarity in
wavelengths >360 nm (figure 1). solution,[19,21] by optimizing the dielectric constant of the oil
The attenuation profiles of TiO2 and ZnO shown here are phase in emulsions,[27] and by including energy transfer agents
representative of the raw material grades used as sunscreen that quench the singlet or triplet excited states of avoben-
actives and agree well with diffuse reflectance spectral com- zone.[20,28] Since most photochemical reactions for organic com-
parisons of TiO2 and ZnO recorded from human skin in vivo.[14] pounds occur from the longer-lived triplet state,[29] quenching
As inorganic particulates, TiO2 and ZnO attenuate UVR and agents that either reduce the formation of (i.e. singlet quench-
visible radiation by scattering and absorption, both of which ers) or directly quench the triplet state of avobenzone represent
are affected by the size distribution of the particulates.[22,23] highly effective mechanisms to preserve the absorption capacity
Scattering of visible radiation promotes whitening effects on of avobenzone as a sunscreen active during exposure to UVR.
human skin. By optimizing particle size, whitening can be Thus, by following logical formulation strategies and by se-
minimized while efficiency of UVR attenuation can be maxi- lecting formulation ingredients judiciously, the photostability
mized. In the case of TiO2, optimization of particle size leads to of avobenzone can be preserved during exposures to UVR.
special grades for use as a sunscreen active that attenuate UVB By far the most important formulation strategy to maintain
and short UVA wavelengths (<360 nm) more efficiently than an intact chemical structure of avobenzone is to avoid use of
long UVA wavelengths (>360 nm). In contrast, the attenuation incompatible ingredients that react photochemically with avo-
profile of ZnO is less affected by particle size and, owing to its benzone to destroy its absorption properties. This includes the
lower refractive index (2.0 for ZnO vs 2.6 for TiO2), it is also less popular UVB sunscreen active octinoxate as well as the less

K
G
M

a b
110 110
UVB absorbance remaining (%)

UVA absorbance remaining (%)

100 100

90 90

80 80

70 70

60 60

50 50
0 1 2 3 4 0 1 2 3 4
Duration of UVR exposure (h)

Fig. 6. Percentage changes in integrated absorbances over (a) UVB and (b) UVA spectral regions as films of commercial products were irradiated with UV
radiation (UVR) over 4 consecutive hours. Owing to the presence of octinoxate, product M lost significant absorption in both UVB and UVA regions of the
spectrum. Conversely, products K and G sustained absorbance within UVB and UVA spectral regions over the entire time course of UVR exposure. Product K
leverages sunscreen actives, whereas product G relies on sunscreen actives combined with the stabilizer diethylhexyl-2,6-naphthalate to maintain the
photostability of avobenzone. Product M: SPF 45, containing 2% avobenzone, 7.5% octinoxate, 6% oxybenzone, 12% homosalate, and 5% octisalate; Product
K: SPF 50, containing 3% avobenzone, 7% octocrylene, 4% oxybenzone, 13% homosalate, and 5% octisalate; Product G: SPF 45, containing 3% avobenzone,
2.4% octocrylene, 6% oxybenzone, 15% homosalate, 5% octisalate, plus an unspecified amount of diethylhexyl-2,6-naphthalate.

ª 2010 Adis Data Information BV. All rights reserved. Am J Clin Dermatol 2010; 11 (6)
UVA Protection of Avobenzone, Zinc Oxide, and Titanium Dioxide 419

a b
20 54
18
16 50

PFA value

SPF value
14 * *
46
12 *
10 42
8 R2 = 0.9991 * R2 = 0.9995
*
6 38
0 20 40 60 80 100 0 20 40 60 80 100
Reduction in avobenzone concentration (%)

Fig. 7. Reductions in (a) UVA protection factor (PFA) and (b) sun protection factor (SPF) values as avobenzone concentration in an SPF 50 emulsion is serially
reduced from 3% to 0%. * p < 0.05 vs the original value with avobenzone 3%.

frequently used UVB sunscreen active 2-ethylhexyl-4-dimethyl- exposure do not compromise the protective qualities of a sun-
aminobenzoate (padimate O).[26,30,31] In general, while they can screen film on human skin, while larger losses clearly com-
partially offset the loss of avobenzone, addition of extra sta- promise both UVB and UVA protection. While we understand
bilizing agents typically cannot completely prevent avobenzone that the results presented here for this specific high SPF product
from reacting photochemically with incompatible ingredients. may not translate directly to other SPF products with different
Hence, ingredients that are known or suspected of being photo- sunscreen actives, they do clearly demonstrate that through
chemically incompatible with avobenzone should either be careful formulation the photostability of avobenzone can be
avoided or tested before adding them to a formulation. maintained at a level where minor fluctuations have no impact,
Once incompatible ingredients are avoided, avobenzone in a for all practical purposes, on a product’s ability to deliver
formula can be photochemically stabilized either by (i) the pre- sustained protection even over long periods of UVR exposure.
sence of the other sunscreen actives; or (ii) the inclusion of extra As a final comparison of efficacy, we confirmed that com-
quenching agents, such as DEHN,[28] DESM,[32] and polyester-8[20] mercial sunscreen products containing TiO2 did not confer the
along with the sunscreen actives. The sunscreen actives same degree of UVA protection to human skin as did those
oxybenzone and octocrylene, believed to be efficient singlet and containing either ZnO or photostabilized avobenzone. The
triplet quenchers,[20] respectively, are especially effective pho- results for different commercial sunscreen products of similar
tostabilizers for avobenzone. The results shown here (figure 6) SPF (table I) demonstrated convincingly that addition of TiO2
emphasize that the stabilizing power of the right mixture of yielded PFA values on human skin that fell markedly below
sunscreen filters themselves is as effective as the use of addi- products that contained either avobenzone or ZnO. Indeed,
tional stabilizing agents such as DEHN to preserve the absorp- products containing TiO2 provided PFA values that were more
tion properties of avobenzone in sunscreen products. similar to products containing oxybenzone, a sunscreen active
Several studies have documented that loss of absorbance due that, like TiO2, effectively attenuates UVA wavelengths up to
to degradation of avobenzone during UVR exposure decreased
the protective capacity of sunscreen films. One study reported
Table I. Concentrations of UVA actives present in commercial sunscreen
significant reductions in protection toward several biologic
products accompanied by their labeled sun protection factor (SPF) claim and
endpoints within reconstructed skin in vitro,[33] while other
determined UVA protection factor (PFA)
studies observed significant reductions in SPF following irra-
Product Oxy (%) Avo (%) TiO2 (%) ZnO (%) SPF PFA
diation on inert substrates.[21,26,30] We report here that reducing
J 6.0 45 6.0
avobenzone by as much as 20% in a photostable SPF 50
sunscreen product does not significantly change either SPF or B 2.4 50 10.5

PFA levels from their original values on human skin (figure 7). D 6.0 5.9 50 9.5

Reductions in avobenzone affected PFA more than SPF values, E 9.1 30 8.4
as expected, because avobenzone predominantly absorbs long- L 4.0 3.0 50 18.2
er UVA radiation whereas erythema is caused mainly by UVB H 6.0 5.0 50 16.0
plus short UVA wavelengths. Our results show for the first time Avo = avobenzone; Oxy = oxybenzone; TiO2 = titanium dioxide; ZnO = zinc
that small losses in avobenzone that may occur during UVR oxide.

ª 2010 Adis Data Information BV. All rights reserved. Am J Clin Dermatol 2010; 11 (6)
420 Beasley & Meyer

360 nm. Even a product containing 9.1% TiO2 did not provide 8. Schroeder P, Gremmel T, Berneburg M, et al. Partial depletion of mitochon-
drial DNA from human skin fibroblasts induces a gene expression profile
PFA values comparable to products containing avobenzone or
reminiscent of photoaged skin. J Invest Dermatol 2008; 128: 2297-303
ZnO. These studies demonstrate that TiO2 should not be con-
9. Haliday GM, Agar NS, Barnetson RSC, et al. UVA fingerprint mutations in
sidered an equivalent substitute for either avobenzone or human skin cancer. Photochem Photobiol 2005; 81: 3-8
ZnO in its ability to protect skin from the damaging effects 10. Runger TM. C-T transition mutations are not solely UVB-signature muta-
of UVA radiation or to imbue products with full-spectrum tions, because they are also generated by UVA. J Invest Dermatol 2008; 128:
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and approval of the manuscript. Editorial assistance in the preparation of
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