Just Blinds Ebook

Just Blinds E-Book: Page 1
Copyright Alternative Windows 2004

About the Author:

Wendy Fleat was born and still lives in the Southampton area of the United Kingdom. She has
been a professional seamstress for over 30 years (although she failed her G.C.E. needlework
exams) and whilst sewing will always be her first love, she has tried her hand at a number of other
craft related hobbies.
Her interest in sewing was first fired at the age of 10 when she was taught the skills of knitting and
stitching by her Grandmother.
The first few years of married life found her working for a large soft furnishing company where she
increased her sewing skills and knowledge. These were put to good use during the years she
spent at home with young children.
Once the children had grown, she again moved into a soft furnishing environment completing a
number of courses to further enhance her skills. Eventually she set up her own custom drapery
company and never looked back.
With D.I.Y. television programmes becoming popular, it became obvious that more people wanted
to make their own window treatments and she was repeatedly asked to give lessons or write a
book.
Dedication:
I would like to dedicate this book to my partner and soul mate Alan, without whose support,
patience, encouragement and computer expertise none of this would have been possible.
Copyright © 2004 Alternative Windows

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in any retrievable
system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
recording or otherwise, without the permission of the publisher.
The publishers have made every effort to ensure that all instructions given in this book are
accurate and safe, but they cannot accept liability for any resulting injury, damage or loss to
either person or property whether direct or consequential and howsoever arising.
First published in Great Britain in 2002 by Alternative Windows
23, Moorgreen Park, Moorgreen Road, Southampton, SO30 3ED England
Telephone 023 80579282
E-Mail sales@alternative-windows.com
Website http://www.alternative-windows.com

About this E-Book:

Our goal is to help you create the home of your dreams:
This we will achieve by teaching you the skills to produce your own professional looking,
made to measure Blinds.
Why should anyone want to make his or her own soft furnishings?
It enables you to create an individual style using a wider range of fabrics and colours.
It enables you to co-ordinate with your existing decor in a way which is not always possible
with off the shelf products.
The sense of achievement and the learning of a new skill.
How we will achieve our goal:
By setting out each project using simple step-by-step instructions with the aid of
illustrations to guide you through each stage.
By making sure you know all the sewing terms needed. This is done with the aid of a
comprehensive sewing techniques section, which will guide you through all the seams and
stitches needed to complete each project.
By making sure that all the diagrams are colour coded and that a key to these colours is
displayed at the beginning of each project.
By giving you a vast range of projects that can be mixed and matched to create designer
looks for every lifestyle.
What you need to do:
It is imperative to read each project through making sure that you understand all the
terminology before you start.
Remember that both metric and imperial measurements are included but it is essential to
only use one measuring system.
Remember help is always at hand from thousands of users on our Soft Furnishing Forum.
Important: Read This:
Throughout this e-book we have used coloured links to highlight various things.
A Blue Coloured Underlined Link is mouse clickable and will take you to a section or
subject within this book (or sometimes an Internet link).
A Green Highlighted Link indicates that this subject is covered in one of our other books.
Both the Table of Contents and Index have mouse clickable links.

Table of Contents:
Butterfly Roman Blind: ______________________ 68

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:____________________ 2
Fantail Roman Blind:________________________ 72
ABOUT THIS E-BOOK:____________________ 3 Hobbled Roman Blind: ______________________ 76
Plain Roman Blind: _________________________ 81
TABLE OF CONTENTS: ___________________ 4 Plain Roman Blind with Turret Bottom: _________ 85
Pointed Roman Blind: _______________________ 90
FIXTURES AND FITTINGS: ________________ 5 Relaxed Roman Blind:_______________________ 94
Staggered Roman Blind: _____________________ 96
MEASURING UP FOR BLINDS: _____________ 7
Waterfall Roman Blind:______________________ 98
Tie Up Blinds: _____________________________ 102
BLINDS:________________________________ 9
Measuring and Estimating Fabric Quantities: ____ 102
Austrian Blinds: ______________________________ 9 Relaxed Tie Up Blind: ______________________ 103
Balloon Blinds: ______________________________ 15 Rolled Tie Up Blind: _______________________ 105
Cascade Blinds: _____________________________ 19
SEWING TECHNIQUES:_________________ 107
Corsican Blinds:_____________________________ 22
Eyelet Blinds: _______________________________ 26 Adding Curtain Weights: ____________________ 107
Fantail Blinds: ______________________________ 29 Appliqué: _________________________________ 108
Relaxed Fantail Blind: _______________________ 29 Binding and Piping:_________________________ 111
Tailored Fantail Blind:_______________________ 31 Cord Tidy Bag: ____________________________ 118
Festoon Blinds:______________________________ 34 Covering Buttons: __________________________ 120
Hook Up Blinds:_____________________________ 38 Curved Hems: _____________________________ 121
London Blinds:______________________________ 41 Frills:_____________________________________ 122
Reefed Blinds: ______________________________ 45 Inserting a Zip: ____________________________ 131
Roller Blinds: _______________________________ 48 Matching Patterned Fabrics: _________________ 132
Fitting the Roller:___________________________ 48 Mitring a Border: __________________________ 134
Plain Roller Blind: __________________________ 49 Mitring a Hem: ____________________________ 136
Scalloped Roller Blind: ______________________ 52 Quilting: __________________________________ 137
Shaped Roller Blind: ________________________ 55 Seams: ____________________________________ 138
Roman Blinds: ______________________________ 58 Stitches:___________________________________ 141
Measuring and Estimating Fabric Quantities: _____ 58
INDEX:_______________________________ 147
Bottom Up Roman Blind: ____________________ 59
Bound Edge Roman Blind: ___________________ 64 AVAILABLE BOOK TITLES: _____________ 150

Fixtures and Fittings:

There are a number of ways of fitting blinds depending on whether they are to go inside the window
recess, at the top of the window frame or above it.
Blinds can go inside or outside of the window recess and need to be fixed on to a batten or
blind track at the top edge. An acorn is used to neaten the ends of the cords and a cleat is
used to wind the cords around when the blind is pulled up.
This style of blind track, displayed on the right, can be used for Austrian, festoon, hobbled
and roman blinds.
The blind is attached to the front edge of the

track with hook and grip tape (Velcro).
They have cord guides incorporated and can

be used with a cleat or a cord locking
mechanism.
Fixing Wooden Battens:
Side view of a wooden batten which is attached to the

top of the window frame.
This position for the wooden batten is used when a blind

is fitted outside of the window recess.
Note that the wooden batten should be deep enough to

allow for the pleats or ruches when the blind is pulled
up.
Side view of a wooden batten attached to the

underside of the top of the window frame.
This position for the wooden batten is used when a

blind is fitted inside of the window recess.
Note that the wooden batten should be positioned to

allow enough room for the pleats or ruches when the
blind is pulled up.

Side view of a wooden batten which is attached to the wall above the top of the window
frame.
This position for the wooden batten is used when a blind

is fitted outside of the window recess and above the
window frame.
This method is often used when dealing with U.P.V.C. or

metal window frames which do not allow you to affix a
wooden batten directly onto them.
Note that the wooden batten should be deep enough to

allow room for the pleats or ruches when the blind is pulled up.
A cleat is positioned at one side of the window frame

and is used to secure the cords of the blind when it is in
the raised position.
Acorns are used to add a decorative finish to the ends of the cords on
blinds. They are usually available in wood, metal, porcelain or plastic.

Measuring Up for Blinds:

Measuring up for your window treatments should be one of the first steps, and probably one of the
most important, you make. Get this wrong and no matter how well you sew your curtains the
desired effect will not be achieved.
The first step is to decide how and where the blind is to be attached to the window (see the section
relating to this on page 5). Once this decision is made it is advisable to fix the track or batten in
position before any measurements are taken.
It is advisable to make a plan of each window and transfer all the measurements onto it for future
reference. Never presume that 2 windows are exactly the same size even if they look identical.
Take all the measurements in either inches or centimetres. DO NOT MIX THE TWO.
A. Width of the valance track or pelmet

board including the sides (returns).
B. Blind length (drop) outside the window

recess.
C. Blind length (drop) inside the window

recess.
D. Length (drop) of the valance or pelmet.
E. Blind width inside the window recess.
F. Blind width outside the window recess.
Measuring Blind Widths Outside the Window

Recess:
1. Measure the width of the window sill or window frame (F), whichever is wider, and multiply
by the fullness needed for the particular blind you wish to make.
2. Divide that by the width of the fabric, normally 48" or 54" (125cms or 137cms), and round
up to the next whole number to give the number of widths required.
3. A full width of fabric is always positioned in the centre with equal part widths added to each
side of the blind.

Measuring Blind Widths Inside the Window

Recess:
1. Measure the width of the window recess (E) and multiply by the fullness needed for the
particular blind you wish to make.
2. Divide that by the width of the fabric, normally 48" or 54" (125cms or 137cms), and round
up to the next whole number to give the number of widths required.
3. A full width of fabric is always positioned in the centre with equal part widths added to each
side of the blind.
Measuring Blind Length Outside the Window

Recess:
1. Measure from the top of the wooden batten or blind track to the bottom of the window sill or
the required length (B) and add the hem allowances. To this measurement add any extra
length needed for the style of blind you wish to make.
2. If more than one width is required and a patterned fabric is to be used then extra fabric will
be needed in each length to match the pattern across the widths (learn how to on page
132).
For the ultimate in simplicity, the Alternative Windows Fabric Estimating Software will do
most of these estimations for you at the click of a button.
More details at http://www.alternative-windows.com/soft-furnishing-software.htm
Measuring Blind Length Inside the Window

Recess:
1. Measure the length of the window recess (C) and add the hem allowances. To this
measurement add any extra length needed for the style of blind you wish to make.
2. If more than one width is required and a patterned fabric is to be used then extra fabric will
be needed in each length to match the pattern across the widths (learn how to on page
132).

Blinds:
Blinds have a number of design benefits to consider when choosing a window treatment.
They can be used when there is no space available at the sides of a window.
They can be used inside or outside the window recess.
They are more economical on fabric than curtains.
They can be used in conjunction with curtains and top treatments to give a layered
effect.
There are 3 basic styles of blind:
Simple styles include Hook Up, Roller, Reefed and Tie Up blinds.
Roman styles include Bottom Up, Fantail and Hobbled blinds.
Elaborate gathered styles include Austrian, Balloon, Cascade, Festoon and London
blinds.
If the window you intend to cover is very wide, it is preferable to divide the width into sections and
make a blind for each section rather than 1 blind across the whole width.
Where there are different size windows in a room, blinds can be used to treat the smaller windows
while using the same fabric to dress the larger windows with curtains.
Austrian Blinds:
Austrian Blinds are in reality a curtain, and are made up as such

with a fullness of twice the track or batten width. The only
differences being that the blind is pulled up from the bottom to
the top by means of cords attached at the back, and is made
longer than the required finished drop. The extra fabric in the
length forms scallops, even when the blind is in the lowered
position.

Austrian Blinds are generally made up in lightweight curtain fabrics, they will hang better and
exclude more light if they are lined. They can be hung inside or outside the window recess. If they
are hung outside the recess they can be frilled at the side and bottom edges. However, if they are
hung inside the recess, they look better if a frill is added to the bottom edge only.
Press & drape heading tape is attached to the top edge so that the blind can be hung from a blind
track or a wooden batten. Grip tape will be needed if a wooden batten is used.
The instructions below are for a Lined Austrian Blind with 3 scallops, fitted outside the window
recess. A 3” (7.5 cms) single gathered frill is added to the side and bottom edges. Other styles of
Frill are on page 122.
The dimensions can be adjusted for other sizes of blinds.
Colour Codes For Diagrams:
The colour displayed to the left indicates the right side of the fabric.
The colour displayed to the left indicates the wrong side of the fabric.
The colour displayed to the left indicates the lining.
Requirements:
Blind track or wooden batten, 8" (20 cms) wider than the window.
Lightweight curtain fabric.
Lining.
4 screw eyelets, if a wooden batten is used.
Curtain hooks, if an Austrian blind track is used.
Austrian blind tape. (The length of the flat blind x the number of scallops) + 1 blind
length approx.
Nylon cord. Approx (twice the blind length + 1 width) for each length of Austrian blind
tape.
Press & drape curtain heading tape, approx twice the length of the blind track or
wooden batten.
Grip tape, the length of the wooden batten, if used.
Wall cleat and an acorn.

Measuring and Estimating Fabric Quantities:
1. Fix the blind track or wooden batten in the chosen position, see the section relating to this
subject on page 5. If the blind is to hang inside the window recess, fix it to the underside of
the window frame. If the blind is to hang outside the window recess, fix it to the top or
above the window frame. See also the section relating to measuring up on page 7. Attach
the grip tape to the front edge of the wooden batten, if used.
2. To calculate the flat length of the blind, measure from the top of the track or batten to the
bottom of the window frame and add 20" (50 cms) (call this A) so the blind will have some
fullness when lowered over the window, this allows for top hem and bottom seam
allowances. Allow extra length for pattern matching, if necessary (learn how to on page
132).
3. To calculate the width, measure the length of the track or batten and double it, this allows
for fullness (call this B). Divide this number by the width of the fabric to be used and round
up to the next whole number. This will be the number of widths of fabric required.
4. For a single gathered frill, 3" (7.5 cms) wide, you will need strips 4" (10 cms) long cut from
across the fabric width. To calculate the amount of frill required, take the measurement "A"
as above and double it. Add this to the measurement "B". Now double this figure to allow
the frill to be gathered, with a fullness ratio of 2.
Example:
Window length = 60" (152 cms), so "A" will be 80" (202 cms).
Window width = 30" (76 cms), so the track or batten measurement will be 38" (96 cms).
So "B" will be 76" (192 cms).
Therefore the amount of frill needed will be 2 x "A" = 160" (404 cms) + "B". Making a total
of 236" (596 cms).
Double this, making a grand total of 472" (1192 cms).
5. To calculate how many strips are required for the frill, divide this number [472" (1192 cms)]
by the width of the fabric. As this does not have to be exact work to the nearest whole
width of fabric.
6. Cut the required number of strips from across the width of the fabric, allowing extra length
for pattern matching where necessary.
Making an Austrian Blind:
1. Cut 1 piece of the main fabric and 1 piece of the lining to the required measurements. If
more than 1 width is required, join them together using a flat seam (learn how to on page
138) and matching the pattern if necessary. Press the seams open. Make sure there is a
full width in the centre with equal part widths added at each side.

2. Prepare the single gathered frill following the instructions on page 129. Pull up the
gathering threads until it measures twice "A" + "B". Adjust the gathers evenly.
3. Lay the blind fabric, right side up, on a flat surface. Starting 1" (2.5 cms) down from the top
edge, lay the frill onto the blind, wrong side up, with the frills facing towards the centre and
matching the raw edges.
4. Working down one side, across the bottom and then up the
other side, pin the frill into place, finishing 1" (2.5 cms) from
the top edge at the other side. Adjust the gathers if
necessary to help ease the frill around the corners.
5. Machine stitch into place, 0.5” (12 mm) in from the raw
edges, between the 2 rows of gathering stitches. Remove
the gathering threads.
6. Lay the blind, right side up, on a flat surface with the frills facing towards the centre. Place
the lining, wrong side up, on top. Position it so that the raw edges match along the bottom
and side edges.
7. Pin and stitch through all thicknesses around all 3 edges, 0.5" (12 mm) in from the raw
edges.
8. Turn right side out and press lightly.
9. Lay the blind, lining side up, onto a flat surface.

Cut 2 lengths of Austrian blind tape slightly longer
than the length of the blind, making sure that the
first loop on the tape will be 2" (5 cms) up from the
frill seam. Position the tapes vertically on the
fabric, alongside the frill seam at each side. Make
sure that the loops of the tape are aligned across
the blind. Turn under 0.5" (12 mm) at the bottom
edge of each tape to neaten.
10. Pin and stitch the tapes in place. Stitch both sides
in the same direction to avoid puckering.

11. Divide the width between the Austrian blind tapes into equal sections of 12" - 20" (30 - 50
cms) and mark a vertical line down the blind at each point.
12. Pin and stitch a length of Austrian blind tape centrally on each vertical line, turning under
0.5” (12 mm) at the bottom edge to neaten. Make sure that the tapes are parallel and that
the loops on all the tapes are aligned across the blind.
Turn down 1" (2.5 cms) at the top edge and press
the fold.
14. Knot the cords, to the wrong side, at one end of

the heading tape and free them to the right side, at
the other end. Pin the heading tape on the wrong
side of the blind, close to the top fold, turning in 1"
(2.5 cms) at each end to neaten.
15. Insert a cord tidy bag, approximately 2" (5 cms) in

from the edge where the cords are free (learn how
to on page 118).
16. Stitch the heading tape in place along the top and bottom edges, making sure to stitch both
sides in the same direction to avoid puckering.
Hanging an Austrian Blind:
1. Decide from which side of the window you wish to

work your blind i.e. left or right. These instructions
are for a right-handed operation, just reverse the
instructions for a left-handed operation.

Cut pieces of nylon cord for each length of the
Austrian blind tape. Cut each piece twice the
length of the blind + 1 width.

3. Starting at the right hand side, attach a piece of nylon cord to the bottom loop of the
Austrian blind tape and thread it up through all the loops to the top edge.
4. Repeat for the other blind tapes.
5. Pull up the cords on the heading tape to fit the blind track or batten and adjust the gathers
evenly. Secure the ends of the cords with a sliding loop. Wind up the surplus cord and tuck
it into the cord tidy bag.
6. Attach the top of the blind to the wooden batten, by pressing the heading tape onto the grip
tape. Screw the eyes into the underside of the wooden batten, directly above each of the
Austrian blind tapes. If using an Austrian blind track insert curtain hooks into the pockets on
the heading tape and hang the blind on the track.
7. Thread all the nylon cords through the cord holders on the track or the screw eyes on the
batten, working from left to right. With the bottom of the blind at window sill level, cut all the
nylon cords level with the bottom of the window. Thread all the cords through the acorn and
knot to secure.
8. Fix a cleat at the right hand side approximately halfway down the window. Pull up the blind
and wind the cords around the cleat in a figure of eight to secure.

Balloon Blinds:
Balloon blinds are more tailored than Austrian blinds with

the fullness coming from inverted pleats.
They can be used alone or teamed up with curtains,

valances and pelmets for a layered window treatment.
The blind is pulled up and down with cords threaded

through Austrian blind tapes which are attached to the
back of the pleats.
These are sometimes known as Balloon shades and can

have any number of pleats depending on the width of the
window and personal preference.
The instructions below are for a lined Balloon blind with 3 pleats.
The colour displayed to the left indicates the wooden batten.
Requirements:
Suitable curtain fabric.
Matching thread.
Lining fabric.
Wooden batten, 1” (2.5 cms) by 1” (2.5 cms) by the width required.
Stick and sew Velcro, the width of the finished blind.
Acorn.
Austrian blind tape, 5 times the blind length plus 20" (50 cms).
Cleat.
Nylon cord, 5 times (twice the length + width of the blind).
6 screw eyelets.

1. Fix the wooden batten in the required position, either into the ceiling of the window recess
or onto the wall above the window frame (see the section relating to this subject on page
5). This is dependent on whether you intend your finished blind to hang inside or outside
the window recess. If the batten is to go outside the window recess then it needs to be at
least 2" (5 cms) wider than the window frame or the window sill, whichever is wider.
2. Attach the adhesive side of the Velcro to the front edge of the batten.
3. Inside the Recess:

Measure the length, from the top of the batten to the window sill and add 1.5" (3.75 cms)
for hems. If patterned fabric is used, extra length will be required for pattern matching
(learn how to on page 132).
4. Measure the width of the window adding 1" (2.5 cms) for seam allowance and 36" (90
cms) for pleats [12” (30 cms) for each pleat]. Divide this width by the width of the fabric to
be used and round up to the next whole number. This will be the number of widths of
fabric required. Allow an extra 1” (2.5 cms) for each extra seam required.
5. Outside the Recess:

Measure the length, from the top of the wooden batten to 2" (5 cms) below the window sill
and add 1.5" (3.75 cms) for hems. If patterned fabric is used, extra length will be required
for pattern matching.
6. Measure the width of the wooden batten and add 1" (2.5 cms) for seams and 36" (90 cms)
for pleats [12” (30 cms) for each pleat]. Divide this width by the width of the fabric to be
used and round up to the next whole number. This will be the number of widths of fabric
required. Allow an extra 1” (2.5 cms) for each extra seam required.
Making a Balloon Blind:
1. Cut 1 piece of fabric and 1 piece of lining to the required size. If more than 1 width is
required, add equal part widths to each side of a full width in the centre. Join widths
together with a flat seam (learn how to on page 138), matching the pattern if necessary.
2. Place the fabric and the lining, right sides together and matching the raw edges.
3. Pin and stitch the sides and the bottom edges, 0.5" (12 mm) in from the raw edges.
4. Turn right side out and press.

5. Lay the blind on a flat surface,

wrong side up and mark parallel
lines 1" (2.5 cms) in from each side
edge for the tapes. Call these (A)
and (B).
6. Mark a tape line (C) halfway

between (A) and (B) and mark a
pleat line 6" (15 cms) both sides of
(C). Call these (D) and (E).
7. Mark a tape line (F) halfway

between (A) and (D) and mark a
pleat line 6" (15 cms) both sides of
(F). Call these (G) and (H).
8. Mark a tape line (I) half way between (B) and (E) and mark a pleat line 6" (15 cms) both
sides of (I). Call these (J) and (K).
9. Cut the Austrian blind tape into 5 equal lengths.
10. Turn 1" (2.5 cms) under at the bottom edges of the 5 tapes and place them centrally over
the 5 marked tape lines which are (A), (B), (C), (F) and (I) so that the first loop at the
bottom of each one is 2" (5 cms) up from the bottom fold of the blind.
11. Pin and stitch the tapes down both sides and across the
bottom. Stitch the sides in the same direction to avoid
puckering.
12. Turn in 1" (2.5 cms) at the top edge of the blind, including
the end of the tape, and slipstitch (learn how to on page
145).
13. Fold the blind down the centre of the tapes, right sides
together and matching the marked pleat lines. i.e. (G) goes
to (H), (D) goes to (E) and (J) goes to (K).
14. Pin and stitch down the marked lines, 4" (10 cms) from the
top edge and secure the ends of the thread firmly.
15. Pin and stitch on the marked lines, 2" (5 cms) up from the bottom edge and secure the
ends of the thread firmly.
16. Press the pleats down the length of the blind with the stitching centred over the tape.

17. Pin and stitch the “sew” side of the Velcro across
the top of the blind, on the wrong side, close to the
top fold. Work both rows of stitches in the same
direction to avoid puckering.
18. Cut the nylon cord into 5 equal lengths and secure
each piece to the bottom loops on the blind tapes.
19. Thread the cords up through the loops on the blind

tapes.
Hanging a Balloon Blind:
1. Hang the blind onto the batten by pressing the 2 halves of the Velcro together.
2. Screw an eyelet on the underside of the wooden

batten directly above each tape on the blind and
one at the end of the batten. It can go on the left or
right hand side depending on where you wish to
raise and lower the blind from.
3. Thread the cords through the eyelets so that they

hang together at 1 side.
4. Trim the ends of the cords half way down the blind.
5. Thread the cords through the acorn and knot to

secure.
6. Position the cleat at a convenient height at the side of the window frame and fix in place.
7. Pull up the blind and wind the cords around the cleat in a figure of eight to secure.

Cascade Blinds:
A cascade blind, or cascade shade as it is sometimes

known, is a simple solution for a small window where
curtains would be impracticable, such as a bathroom,
kitchen or landing window.
If they are hung on wide windows the style of them can

make the sides drape away from the edges of the
window.
Cascade blinds can be lined or unlined, are very

economical on fabric and can be attached inside or
outside the window recess.
It is best to use a lightweight fabric as heavyweights do

not give the desired effect.
The instructions below are for a lined Cascade blind.
Requirements:
Fabric.
Lining.
Stick & Sew Velcro, the width of the finished blind.
Small curtain rings, 0.5" (12 mm) diameter approx.
A wooden batten, 1” (2.5 cms) x 1” (2.5 cms) x the width of the finished blind.
Nylon cord, 2 x (twice the length of the blind + the width).
3 screw eyelets.
Wooden or brass acorn and a wall cleat.

1. Fix the wooden batten in the required position, either into the ceiling of the window recess
or onto the wall above the window frame (see the section relating to this subject on page
5). This is dependent on whether you intend your finished blind to hang inside or outside
the window recess. If the batten is to go outside the window recess then it needs to be at
least 2" (5 cms) wider than the window frame or the window sill, whichever is wider.
2. Attach the adhesive side of the Velcro to the front edge of the batten.
3. Inside the Recess:

Measure the length, from the top of the batten to the window sill and add 4" (10 cms) for
hems. If patterned fabric is used, extra length will be required for pattern matching (learn
how to on page 132).
4. Measure the width of the window adding 6" (15 cms) for side hems. Divide this width by
the width of the fabric to be used and round up to the next whole number. This will be the
number of widths of fabric required. Allow an extra 1” (2.5 cms) for each extra seam
required.
5. Outside the Recess:

Measure the length, from the top of the wooden batten to 2" (5 cms) below the window sill
and add 4" (10 cms) for hems. If patterned fabric is used, extra length will be required for
pattern matching.
6. Measure the width of the wooden batten and add 6" (15 cms) for side hems. Divide this
width by the width of the fabric to be used and round up to the next whole number. This
will be the number of widths of fabric required. Allow an extra 1” (2.5 cms) for each extra
seam required.
Making a Cascade Blind:
1. Cut 1 piece of fabric to the required size making sure that any pattern on the fabric is
centred. If more than 1 width of fabric is required make sure there is a full width in the
centre of the blind with part widths added to each side. Match the pattern, if required,
across all widths.
2. Place the fabric on a flat surface, wrong side up, fold 3" (7.5 cms) in at each side and 2" (5
cms) at the top and bottom edges. Mitre all the corners and press.
3. Cut 1 piece of lining to the width of the batten and the length of the finished blind, adding 1"
(2.5 cms) to the length for hems.
4. Fold 1" (2.5 cms) to the wrong side on all edges, mitring all the corners. Press all the folds.
You should now have a piece of lining which is 2" (5 cms) narrower and 1" (2.5 cms)
shorter than the fabric.

5. Lay the fabric, wrong side up, on a flat surface. Lay the
lining, right side up on top, positioning it level with the top
edge and centrally across the width of the fabric. Pin the
lining into position at both sides and bottom edges.
6. Slipstitch (learn how to on page 145) the lining into

position along the bottom and both sides. Take care not
to catch the front fabric in your stitches.
7. Pin the “sew” side of the Velcro along the top edge, on
the wrong side, close to the fold and machine stitch it in place. Work both rows of stitches
in the same direction to avoid puckering.
8. Lay the blind, wrong side up, on a flat surface. Mark the
centre point along the top edge (A) and then mark the
centre point of each half (B) and (C).
9. Mark lines down the length of the blind at B and C that are
parallel to the edges of the blind and each other.
10. Measure and mark 8" (20 cms) intervals from the bottom
to the top of lines B and C. Sew a curtain ring at the
bottom of lines B and C and at each marked position.
Stitch through all thicknesses making the stitches as
unobtrusive as possible on the right side.
11. Hang the blind by pressing the 2 sides of the Velcro together.
12. Insert a screw eye into the underside of the batten
directly above the rings on the blind and another at
either the extreme left or right depending on which
side you wish the blind to be operated from.
13. Cut the nylon cord in half and tie 1 length to each of
the ring at the bottom of the blind. Run the cords up
through the lines of rings and along the screw eyes
on the batten. Take both cords to 1 side, trim the
ends level, thread them through the acorn and knot
them to secure.
14. Position a cleat at a convenient height at the side of
the window and fix in place.
15. Pull up the blind, winding the cords around the cleat
in a figure of eight to hold the blind in place.

Corsican Blinds:
Corsican blinds are flat blinds with a softer appearance

than Roman blinds because they are gathered down the
length. They are more suitable for small windows and can
be fitted inside or outside the window recess on a blind
track or a wooden batten.
Unlined Corsican blinds can be made in sheer and lace

fabrics to give privacy but let the light filter through. Lined
versions should be made in light to medium weight fabrics.
Festoon tapes are stitched to the back of the blind to

produce the gathered effect down the length. These
should be positioned at least every half width of fabric, with one at each side edge.
The instructions below are for a lined Corsican blind with 3 lengths of festoon tape, fitted to a
wooden batten.
Requirements:
Wooden batten, 1" (2.5 cms) by 1" (2.5 cms) by the required length.
Fabric of your choice.
Lining.
Matching thread.
Festoon blind tape, approximately 6 x the finished length of the blind.
Stick and sew Velcro, enough for the width of the batten.

Nylon cord, approximately (twice the finished length + the width) for each length of
festoon tape.
A wooden dowel, approximately 0.5" (12 mm) diameter. The length should be 2.5"
(6.25 cms) less than the width of the blind.
3 screw eyelets to fit to the underside of the wooden batten.
Acorn and cleat.
Fabric pen and ruler.
1. Fix the wooden batten in the chosen position, see the section relating to this subject on
page 5. If the blind is to hang inside the window recess, fix it to the underside of the
window frame. If the blind is to hang outside of the recess, fix it to the top of the window
frame or above it.
2. To calculate the length of fabric required, measure from the top of the batten to the chosen
length and double it. See the section relating to measuring on page 7. This includes the
hem allowances but add extra length for pattern matching (learn how to on page 132).
3. The length of lining required will be the same as the fabric requirements minus any extra
for pattern matching.
4. To calculate the width of the blind, measure the length of the batten and add 2" (5 cms) for
side seam allowances. Divide this number by the width of the fabric to be used and round
up to the next whole number. This will be the number of widths of fabric required. Allow an
extra 1" (2.5 cms) for each seam when joining widths together.
5. The number of widths of lining required will be the same as the number of widths of fabric.
Making a Corsican Blind:
required, join widths together with a flat seam (learn how to on page 138). Make sure
there is a full width in the centre with equal part widths added at each side. If pattern fabric
is used, match the pattern across all widths.

2. Lay the fabric on a flat surface, right side up, and lay
the lining on top, wrong side up, matching the raw
edges.
3. Pin and stitch down both sides and along the bottom
edge, 1" (2.5 cms) in from the raw edges.
4. Place the dowel along the seam allowance at the

bottom edge and oversew (learn how to on page 145)
it to both layers of fabric. Trim the bottom corners.
5. Turn right side out, taking the dowel inside the blind and press.
6. Lay the blind on a flat surface, wrong side up, and mark the centre point along the top
edge.
7. Draw a vertical line down the length of the blind at this point. Make sure it is parallel to the
side edges.
8. Cut the festoon tape into 3 equal lengths. Position 1 length centrally over the marked line
down the centre of the blind, finishing just above the dowel, and pin.
9. Place the other lengths of tape down the side edges, close to the folds and pin.
10. Stitch all 3 lengths of tape in place, working all sides in

the same direction to avoid puckering.
11. Lay the blind on a flat surface, wrong side up, and turn
down 1" (2.5 cms) at the top edge and press.
12. Pin the "sew" side of the Velcro along the top edge,
close to the fold. Stitch in place, working both sides in
the same direction to avoid puckering.
13. Pull up all the cords on the festoon tapes to give the
desired length and adjust the gathers evenly. Knot
them to secure and trim.

14. Stick the adhesive side of the Velcro to the front edge of the wooden batten and press the
blind in place.
15. Screw an eyelet into the underside of the batten, directly above each of the festoon tapes.
16. Cut the nylon cord into 3 equal lengths. Knot 1 length to the bottom loop on each festoon
tape and thread up through all the other loops.
17. Thread all the nylon cords through the eyelets on the batten taking them all to 1 side.
18. Cut all the nylon cords level and thread them through the acorn. Knot to secure.
19. Position a cleat at approximately halfway down the window and fix in place.

Eyelet Blinds:
This very simple blind is easy to make and is ideal for a

novice sewer. Eyelet blinds can be lined or unlined and are
best made in stiff fabrics such as cotton canvas. They can
be fitted inside or outside the window recess and are
completely flat when lowered which can show off large
designs to their full potential. They pull up with cords
threaded through eyelets which are inserted into the fabric
in vertical lines.
Eyelet blinds take up very little space when they are pulled
up which makes them an ideal solution for small windows
where light is a premium.
The instructions below are for an unlined eyelet blind which has bound edges, fitted inside the
window recess.
The colour displayed to the left indicates the binding.
Requirements:
Fabric.
Contrasting fabric for the binding, enough for the side and bottom edges and wide
enough to have at least 1" (2.5 cms) showing on the right side of the blind.
Matching thread.
Eyelets and an eyelet tool.
Decorative cord, narrow enough to thread through the eyelets. Approximately twice
(2 x the length plus the width of the finished blind).
Wooden batten, approximately 1" (2.5 cms) x 1" (2.5 cms) by the width of the
window recess.
Stick and sew Velcro, enough for the width of the finished blind.

Acorn and a cleat.
2 beads, if required.
3 screw eyelets.
Fabric marker and ruler.
1. Fix the wooden batten to the underside of the top of the window frame, see the section
relating to this on page 5.
2. Stick the adhesive side of the Velcro to the front edge of the wooden batten.
3. To calculate the length of fabric required, measure from the top of the wooden batten to
the window sill and add 1" (2.5 cms) for the top hem allowance. See the section on
measuring on page 7. If patterned fabric is used, extra will be needed for pattern matching
4. To calculate the width required, measure the length of the wooden batten. Divide this
number by the width of the fabric to be used and round up to the next whole number. This
will be the number of widths of fabric required. Allow an extra 1" (2.5 cms) on the width for
each seam if more than 1 width is required.
5. To calculate the length of binding required, add twice the length to the width of the blind.
Making an Eyelet Blind:
1. Cut 1 piece of fabric to the required size making sure that the fabric is cut square. If more
than 1 width is required, join widths together with a French seam (learn how to on page
139). Make sure there is a full width in the centre with equal part widths added at each
side and match the pattern across all widths.
2. Bind the side and bottom edges (learn how to on page 111), mitring the bottom corners on
the binding (learn how to on page 113).
3. Turn down 1" (2.5 cms) at the top edge, to the wrong side.
4. Pin the "sew" side of the Velcro along the top edge, close to the fold and stitch in place
along both edges. Work both rows of stitches in the same direction to avoid puckering.
5. Lay the blind on a flat surface, wrong side up, measure the centre point across the top of
the fabric and mark (A).

6. Measure the centre of each half and mark, (B) and (C).
7. Draw a vertical line down the length of the blind at

each of the outside marks (B) and (C). Make sure
that the lines are parallel to the side edges and
each other.
8. Starting at the bottom of line (B), mark a point 1"

(2.5 cms) up from the bottom edge.
9. Mark further points of between 6" and 10" (15 and

25 cms) apart, finishing with a point just below the
Velcro. These points must be equal distances apart
and there must be an odd number of points.
10. Repeat for line (C).
11. Insert an eyelet at each of the marked points

following the manufacturers instructions.
12. Cut the cord into 2 equal lengths and thread a bead on 1 end of each piece, knotting the
cords to secure. Alternatively tie a large knot at one end.
13. Lay the blind on a flat surface, right side up.
14. Thread the cords through the eyelets, starting at the bottom of the blind and going from
the front to the back. Pulling the cord as you thread until the bead or knot is at the bottom
of the blind, but not enough to gather the fabric. The cord should come out of the top
eyelet at the back of the blind.
16. Insert a screw eyelet into the underside of the wooden batten directly above the rows of
eyelets and 1 at the end of the batten on which side the blind will be pulled up.
17. Thread the cords through the screw eyelets, taking them both to 1 side.
18. Thread both cords through the acorn and knot to secure.
19. Position the cleat at a convenient height at the side of the window and fix in place.
20. Pull up the blind, winding the cords around the cleat in a figure of eight to secure.

Fantail Blinds:
Fantail blinds are an ideal solution for small narrow windows and are extremely decorative. They are
used to let in light but perhaps obscure an ugly view.
Fantail blinds are usually made in sheer or lightweight fabric, are unlined and look best when they
are pulled halfway up the window.
Fantail blinds are attached to the top of the window frame with Velcro so they can be easily
removed for laundering. However, a wooden batten can be fixed above the window frame and the
blind attached to it if preferred. See the section relating to this subject on page 5.
Relaxed Fantail Blind:
These unlined blinds are very simple to make and give a soft feminine look to any small window.
A single cord pulls the blind up in the centre so that the bottom corners fall into a gentle fantail.
Requirements:
Sheer or lightweight fabric.
Stick and Sew Velcro, the width of the finished

blind.
Matching thread.
Nylon cord, twice the length + the width of the

blind.
2 screw eyelets.
Acorn and cleat.

Measuring:
1. Measure the width of the window frame and add 2” (5 cms) for hems.
2. Measure the length of the window frame to the sill. Add half the width to this measurement
plus 2” (5 cms) for hems.
Making a Relaxed Fantail Blind:
1. Cut 1 piece f fabric to the required size.
2. Lay the fabric on a flat surface, wrong side up, and mark the centre point along the top
edge.
3. Using a fabric pen, draw a vertical line down the length of the fabric at this point.
4. Stitch the Austrian blind tape centrally over the marked line, pin and stitch in place. Stitch
both sides in the same direction to avoid puckering.
5. Turn in a double 0.5” (12 mm) hem at each side edge and pin.
6. Turn up a double 0.5” (12 mm) hem at the bottom edge and pin, mitring the bottom
corners (learn how to on page 136).
7. Stitch the side and bottom hems.

8. Turn down 1” (2.5 cms) at the top edge. Pin and stitch
the “sew” side of the Velcro on the wrong side, close to
the top fold. Stitch both sides in the same direction to
avoid puckering.
9. Attach the cord to the bottom loop on the blind tape and
thread it up through all the other loops to the top.
10. Stick the adhesive side of the Velcro to the top of the
window frame and press the blind in place.
11. Screw an eyelet into the window frame exactly above the
blind tape and another at the edge of the window frame
from which the blind will be pulled up.
12. Thread the cord through the eyelets and the acorn. Knot
to secure.
13. Position the cleat at a convenient height at one side of the window and fix in place.
14. Pull up the blind, winding the cord around the cleat in a figure of eight to secure, and
arrange the pleats if necessary.

Tailored Fantail Blind:
These tailored blinds give a stunning look to any small window.
The dowels that are inserted into pockets at the back are cut in the middle so that the blind can fall
into a crisp fantail of pleats at the bottom when the blind is pulled up.
Requirements:
Sheer or lightweight fabric.
Narrow dowels, 1 for each pleat, 2" (5 cms) narrower

than the width of the finished blind.
Matching thread.
Nylon cord, twice the length + the width of the blind.
Small curtain rings, 1 for each pleat.
2 screw eyelets.
Acorn and cleat.
Measuring:
1. Measure the width of the window frame and add 2" (5 cms) for hems.
2. Measure the length from the top of the window frame to the sill. To this measurement add
half the window width to give the finished length of the blind. To calculate the number of
pleats divide this number into equal lengths of approximately 6" (15 cms). Add 1" (2.5 cms)
to the length for each pleat and 1" (2.5 cms) for the top hem.

Example: Width of window frame = 20" (50 cms). Length of window frame = 40" (100 cms).
Length of finished blind = 50" (125 cms). Number of pleats = 8.
Add 1" (2.5 cms) for each pleat and 1" (2.5 cms) for the top hem, 50 + 8 + 1 = 59"
(125 + 20 + 2.5 = 147.5 cms).
Making a Tailored Fantail Blind:
1. Cut 1 piece of fabric to the required size.
2. Lay the fabric, wrong side up, on a flat surface. Mark a

line across the width 1" (2.5 cms) up from the bottom
edge and the same amount down from the top edge.
3. Divide the space between these lines into equal sections

of approximately 6" (15 cms) and mark with a line across
the width. Mark a line across the width at each point.
4. Measure 0.5" (12 mm) each side of each of these lines

and mark with a line across the width.
5. Pin and stitch the 2 outside lines together across the width
to make channels for the dowels.
6. Cut each of the dowels in half and insert them into the channels.
7. Turn in a double 0.5" (12 mm) hem at both side edges and pin.
8. Turn up a double 0.5" (12 mm) hem at the bottom edge and pin inserting a dowel between
the layers of fabric.
9. Slipstitch the side and bottom hems in place (learn how to on page 145).
10. Mark the centre point of each pocket and the bottom hem. Sew a small curtain ring to the
wrong side at each of these marks. Sew through both thicknesses of the pockets and the
hem in between the dowels, but not through the front layer of fabric.
11. Turn down 1" (2.5 cms) at the top edge. Pin the “sew” side of the Velcro across the top on
the wrong side, close to the fold. Stitch in place, working both sides in the same direction to
avoid puckering.
12. Knot the cord to the bottom ring and thread it up through the other rings.

13. Stick the adhesive side of the Velcro to the top

of the window frame and press the blind in
place.
14. Screw an eyelet into the window frame exactly

above the curtain rings and another at the edge
of the window frame from which the blind will be
pulled up.
15. Thread the cord through the eyelets and the

acorn. Knot to secure.
16. Position the cleat at a convenient height at one

side of the window and fix in place.
17. Pull up the blind, winding the cord around the cleat in a figure of eight to secure, and

Festoon Blinds:
Festoon blinds are sometimes mixed up with Austrian

blinds because they are rather similar. They are both
gathered across their width and pull up in flounces from
the bottom.
However, festoon blinds take up a lot more fabric than

Austrian blinds because they are gathered down the
complete length even when they are in the lowered
position therefore taking up twice the finished length of
fabric as well as twice the finished width.
Festoon blinds are usually made in lightweight or sheer

fabric and can be lined or unlined. A frill can be added to
the sides and bottom edges or just at the bottom.
The vertical tapes are usually positioned every half width of fabric with 1 at each side edge.
Festoon blinds can be fitted inside or outside the window recess on a blind track or to a wooden
batten. The instructions below are for an unlined blind with a 3” (7.5 cms) double sided gathered frill
along the bottom edge.
Other styles of frill can be found on page 122.
Requirements:
Blind track or wooden batten.
Lightweight or sheer fabric.
Matching thread.
Festoon blind tape, twice the finished length x (number of flounces + 1).
Press & drape heading tape, twice the width of the track or batten.
Grip tape, the width of the batten, if used.

Nylon cord, approximately (twice the finished blind length + width) for each length of
festoon tape.
4 screw eyelets to fit to the underside of a wooden batten (if used).
Acorn and cleat.
1. Fix the blind track or wooden batten in the chosen position, see the section relating to this
subject on page 5. If the blind is to hang inside the window recess, fix it to the underside of
the window frame. If the blind is to hang outside the window recess, fix it to the top of the
window frame or above it.
2. To calculate the length of fabric required, measure from the top of the track or batten to
the chosen finished length and double it. See the section relating to measuring on page 7.
This includes hem allowances but add extra for pattern matching if necessary (learn how
to on page 132).
3. To calculate the width, measure the length of the track or batten and double it, this allows
for fullness (call this B). Divide this number by the width of the fabric to be used and round
up to the next whole number. This will be the number of widths of fabric required.
4. For a double sided gathered frill, 3" (7.5 cms) long, strips of fabric 7" (17.5 cms) long need
to be cut from across the width of the fabric. To estimate how many strips are required,
take the flat width of the blind and double it to allow for the frill to be gathered with a
fullness ratio of 2. As this does not have to be exact, work to the nearest whole width of
fabric.
5. Cut the required number of strips for the frill from across the width of the fabric, allowing
extra length for pattern matching where necessary.
Making a Festoon Blind:
1. Cut 1 piece of fabric to the required size. If more than 1 width is required, join the widths
together with a French seam (learn how to on page 139). Make sure there is a full width in
the centre of the blind with equal part widths added to each side. If a patterned fabric is
used, match the pattern across all the widths.
2. Prepare the double sided gathered frill following the instructions on page 125. Pull up the
gathering threads until the frill is 2" (5 cms) less than the width of the flat blind. Adjust the
gathers evenly.

3. Lay the fabric on a flat surface, right side up. Pin the frill along the bottom edge, starting
and finishing 1" (2.5 cms) in from the side edges, with the frill facing inwards and matching
the raw edges. Machine stitch in place between the 2 rows of gathering stitches. Remove
the gathering threads. Overlock or zigzag the raw edges to neaten.
4. Lay the fabric on a flat surface, wrong side up and with

the frill away from the blind. Turn in 1" (2.5 cms) down
each side edge and pin.
5. Cut 2 lengths of festoon tape to the length of the blind,

knot the cords at the bottom edge to secure and free
them to the right side 4" (10 cms) down from the top.
Position 1 tape at each side edge close to the fold and
stitch in place. Stitch both sides in the same direction
to avoid puckering.
6. Divide the width of the blind between these tapes into

equal sections, 1 for each flounce and mark a vertical
line down the blind at each point.
7. Pin and stitch a length of festoon tape centrally over

each line, knot the cords at the bottom edge to secure
and free them 4" (10 cms) down from the top edge.
Make sure that the tapes are parallel to each other
and the sides of the blind.
8. Lay the blind on a flat surface, wrong side up and turn

down 1" (2.5 cms) at the top edge.
9. Knot the cords, to the wrong side, at one end of the

heading tape and free them, to the right side, at the
other end. Pin the heading tape along the top edge of
the blind on the wrong side, close to the fold, turning in
1" (2.5 cms) at each end to neaten. Insert a cord tidy
bag approximately 2" (5 cms) from the edge where the
cords are free (learn how to on page 118). Stitch along
both sides of the heading tape in the same direction to
avoid puckering.

10. Pull up all the cords on the vertical tapes to give the desired finished length including the
width of the frill and adjust the gathers evenly. Knot them to secure and trim.
11. Pull up the cords on the heading tape to give the desired width and adjust the gathers
evenly. Secure the cords with a sliding loop, wind up the excess and place them in the cord
tidy bag.
12. Stick the grip tape to the front edge of the wooden batten, if used.
13. Hang the blind by pressing the heading tape onto the grip tape. Screw the eyelets into the
underside of the batten, if used, directly above the festoon tapes.
14. Cut the nylon cord into equal lengths, 1 for each festoon tape. Knot 1 length to the bottom
loop on each festoon tape and thread up through all the other loops.
15. Thread the nylon cords through the

cord holders on the track or the
eyes on the batten taking them all
to 1 side.
16. Cut all the nylon cords level and

thread them through the acorn.
Knot to secure.
17. Position a cleat at approximately

halfway down the window and fix in
place.
18. Pull up the blind and wind the cords

around the cleat in a figure of 8 to
secure.

Hook Up Blinds:
Hook-up blinds are one of the easiest of blinds to make

and the most economical on fabric. They are best
made in a stiffer fabric such as calico or canvas and
are unlined. Hook-up blinds are hung from cup hooks
that are screwed into the top of the window frame or
can be attached, with Velcro, to a wooden batten fixed
above it.
Very popular with younger members of the family, this

blind gives a minimalistic look with its flat appearance
when down.
Hook-up blinds can be fitted inside or outside the window recess.
The instructions below are for an unlined hook up blind hung from 5 cup hooks outside the window
recess.
Requirements:
Suitable stiff fabric.
Matching strong thread.
5 brass cup hooks.
5 eyelets, approximately 0.5" (12 mm) in diameter.
6 curtain rings, approximately 1" (2.5 cms) in diameter.
Approximately 12" (30 cms) of cotton tape, 0.5" (12 mm) wide.

1. Screw the cup hooks in place. Positioning 1 cup hook 1" (2.5 cms) in from each end and
the other 3 at equal distances apart.
2. Measure the width of the window frame. Add 4" (10 cms) to each half width of fabric used.
This allows for a slight drape. Add another 4" (10 cms) for side hems. Divide this
measurement by the width of the fabric to be used and round up to the next whole
number. This will be the number of widths of fabric required.
3. Measure the length from the top of the window frame to the sill or required finished length
and add 4" (10 cms) for hems. Extra length will be required for pattern matching (learn
how to on page 132) if necessary.
Making a Hook Up Blind:
1. Cut 1 piece of fabric to the required size. If more than one width is required join widths
together with a French seam (learn how to on page 139) making sure there is a full width
in the centre with equal part widths added at each side. Allow an extra 1” (2.5 cms) for
each seam when joining widths together. Match the pattern across all widths where
necessary.
2. Turn in a double 1" (2.5 cms) hem on all sides, mitring all the corners (learn how to on
page 134) .
3. Slipstitch (learn how to on page 145) or machine stitch the hems in place.
4. Lay the blind, wrong side up, on a flat surface.

Measure 1" (2.5 cms) in from each side and mark
“A” and “B” at the top edge.
5. Measure and mark half way between “A” and “B”

and call this “C”.
6. Measure and mark halfway between “A” and “C”

and call this “D”.
7. Measure and mark halfway between “C” and “B”

and call this “E”.
8. Insert the eyelets, following the manufacturers

instructions, at the marked points “A”, “B”, “C”, “D”
and “E”. Position them centrally in the top hem.

9. Lay the blind, wrong side up, on a flat surface and draw a line down the length of the blind
at points “D” and “E” that are parallel to the sides and each other.
10. Measure from the bottom of the eyelets down the length of line “D” and divide this length
by 7 marking each section with a pin. Repeat for line “E”.
11. Cut 6 pieces of cotton tape approximately 2" (5 cms)

long. Fold each piece in half lengthways and pin
them to the wrong side of the 2nd, 4th and 6th points
from the top of lines “D” and “E”.
12. Turn the blind over and oversew (learn how to on

page 145) a curtain ring at the 2nd, 4th and 6th
points from the top of lines “D” and “E” taking the
stitches through the fabric and both layers of the
cotton tape. The cotton tape will take the strain when
the blind is hooked up so that the fabric does not pull
out of shape.
13. Hang the blind by hooking the eyelets and the curtain
rings onto the cup-hooks.

London Blinds:
London blinds, or London shades as they are sometimes

known, are a cross between a Roman and an Austrian
blind. They are softer than Roman blinds but more tailored
than Austrian blinds with the fullness coming from inverted
pleats and can be lined or unlined.
The blind is pulled up and down with cords threaded

through Austrian blind tapes that are attached to the blind
at the back of the pleats.
London blinds can be used as a single window treatment

or teamed with curtains, valances or pelmets to give a
layered look.
They are best made in light to medium weight fabrics.
The instructions below are for a lined London blind with 2 inverted pleats.
Requirements:
Suitable fabric.
Matching thread.
Lining.
Blind track or wooden batten, 1" x 1" (2.5 x 2.5 cms) x width of the finished blind.
Austrian blind tape, approximately twice the blind length.
Cleat and acorn.
Nylon cord, twice ( 2 x length + width of blind).
3 screw eyelets for use with the wooden batten.

1. Fix the blind track or wooden batten in position either into the ceiling of the window recess
or onto the wall above the window frame. This is dependent on whether you intend your
finished blind to hang inside or outside the window recess. If the track or batten is to go
outside the window recess then it needs to be at least 2" (5 cms) wider than the window
frame. See the section relating to this on page 5.
2. Attach the adhesive side of the Velcro to the front edge of the batten, if used.
3. Inside the Recess: Measure the length from the top of the track or batten to the window
sill and add 1.5" (3.75 cms) for hems. Add extra length for pattern matching (learn how to
on page 132) where necessary.
4. Measure the width of the window, adding 1" (2.5 cms) for seams and 24" (60 cms) for
pleats [12" (30 cms) for each pleat]. Divide this number by the width of the fabric to be used
and round up to the next whole number. This will be the number of widths required.
5. Outside the Recess: Measure the length from the top of the track or wooden batten to 2"
(5 cms) below the window sill and add 1.5" (3.75 cms) for hems. Add extra length for
pattern matching (learn how to on page 132) where necessary.
6. Measure the width of the track or wooden batten and add 1" (2.5 cms) for seams and 24"
(60 cms) for pleats [12" (30 cms) for each pleat]. Divide this number by the width of the
fabric to be used and round up to the next whole number. This will be the number of widths
required.
Making a London Blind:
required, add equal part widths to each side of a full width in the centre. Join widths
together with a flat seam (learn how to on page 138, matching the pattern across all
the widths if necessary.
2. Place the fabric and the lining, right sides together, matching the raw edges.
3. Pin and stitch the side and bottom edges, 0.5" (12 mm) in from the raw edges.

5. Lay the blind on a flat surface, wrong

side up, and mark parallel lines down
the length of the blind 6", 12" and 18"
(15, 30, 45 cms) in from each side
edge.
6. Cut the Austrian blind tape in half.
7. Turn 1" (2.5 cms) under at the bottom

edges of the tapes and place them
centrally over the 12" (30 cms) lines so
that the first loop is 2" (5 cms) up from
the bottom edge of the blind on each tape.
8. Pin and stitch the tapes down both sides and across the bottom. Stitch the sides in the
same direction to avoid puckering.
9. Turn in 1" (2.5 cms) at the top edge of the blind, including the end of the tape, and slipstitch
10. Fold the blind down the centre of the tape, right sides together, and matching the marked
lines.
11. Pin and stitch down the marked lines, 4" (10 cms) from the
top edge and secure the ends of the thread firmly.
12. Pin and stitch on the marked lines, 2" (5 cms) up from the
bottom edge and secure the ends of the thread firmly.
13. Press the pleats down the length of the blind with the
stitching centred over the tape.

14. Pin and stitch the “sew” side of the Velcro across the top
of the blind, on the wrong side, close to the top fold.
Stitch both sides in the same direction to avoid
puckering.
15. Cut the nylon cord in half and secure each piece to the
bottom loops on the blind tapes.
16. Thread the cords up through all the loops on the blind
tapes.
17. Hang the blind onto the track or batten by pressing the 2 halves of the Velcro together.
18. Screw an eyelet on the underside of the wooden batten, if used, directly above each tape
on the blind and one at the end of the batten. It can go on the left or right hand side
depending on where you wish to raise and lower the blind from.
19. Thread the cords through the eyelets on the batten, or through the cord holders on the
track, so that they hang together at 1 side.
20. Trim the ends of the cords half way down the blind.
21. Thread the cords through the acorn and knot to secure.
22. Position the cleat, at a convenient height, at the side of the window frame and fix in place.

Reefed Blinds:
Reefed blinds can add a touch of sophistication to any room

with their clean lines. They need to be made double sided
because they role up from the bottom on the front of the
blind. This means that cords are always visible from the right
side. However, when two contrasting or coordinating fabrics
are used, the effect can be quite striking.
To ensure that the blind rolls up when the cords are pulled,
extra length is added so that there is always a roll at the
bottom, even when the blind is fully lowered.
Reefed blinds can be fitted inside or outside the window

recess. A wooden batten is required to attach the blind if it is fitted inside the window recess or
above the window frame. See the section relating to this subject on page 5.
In the instructions below, the reefed blind is attached to the top of the window frame and falls
outside the window recess. Eyelets are inserted into the blind to take the cords to the wrong side.
This means that the blind will only pull up to the position of the eyelets.
The colour displayed to the left indicates the right side of the contrasting fabric.
The colour displayed to the left indicates the wrong side of the contrasting fabric.
Requirements:
Fabric for each side of the blind.
Matching thread.
3 screw eyelets.
2 eyelets, approximately 0.5" (12 mm) in diameter.
Wooden dowel, approximately 0.5" (12 mm) diameter. The length should be 2" (5
cms) less than the width of the blind.
Acorn and cleat.

1. To calculate the length of fabric required, measure from the top of the window frame to the
outside edge of the window sill, or required length. To this measurement add 2" (5 cms)
for hem allowances and an extra 6" (15 cms) for the bottom roll. If patterned fabric is used,
extra will be needed for pattern matching (learn how to on page 132).
2. To calculate the width of the blind, measure the outside width of the window frame and
add 2" (5 cms) for side seam allowances. Divide this number by the width of the fabric to
be used and round up to the next whole number. This will be the number of widths
required. Allow an extra 1" (2.5 cms) for each seam if widths need to be joined together.
3. The fabric for each side of the blind will need to be cut to the same size, adjusting the
allowances for pattern matching where required.
Making a Reefed Blind:
1. Cut 2 pieces of fabric to the required size. If more than 1 width is required, make sure
there is a full width in the centre with equal part widths added at each side. Join widths
together with a flat seam (learn how to on page 138) and match the pattern across all
widths.
2. Lay 1 piece of fabric on a flat surface, right side up.
3. Lay the other piece on top, wrong side up and matching the raw edges.
4. Pin and stitch around all sides, 1" (2.5 cms) in

from the raw edges, leaving an opening in the top
edge for turning.
5. Work a second row of stitches along the bottom

edge, 0.25" (6 mm) in from the raw edge.
6. Slide the wooden dowel in between the 2 rows of

stitches.
7. Turn right side out, taking the wooden dowel

inside the bottom edge.
8. Turn in the seam allowance across the opening in line with the rest of the seam and
slipstitch (learn how to on page 145). Press.
9. Cut the nylon cord into 2 equal lengths and knot 1 end of each piece.

10. Position 1 piece of cord 6" (15 cms) in from each side edge on the wrong side of the blind
so that the knot is just below the top edge.
11. Pin and stitch the "sew" side of the Velcro along the
top edge, on the wrong side, close to the top fold.
puckering, attaching the ends of the cord.
12. Lay the blind on a flat surface, right side up, and
measure 4" (10 cms) vertically down the blind from
where the cords are attached and mark.
13. Insert an eyelet at each of these marked positions,

following the manufacturers instructions.
14. Stick the adhesive side of the Velcro to the top of the window frame and attach the blind
by pressing the 2 sides of the Velcro together.
15. Screw an eyelet into the underside of the window frame, to coincide with the positions of
the cords.
16. Screw another eyelet at one side of the window frame, depending on which side the blind
will be pulled up from.
17. Take each of the cords down the back of the blind, around the bottom edge and up the
front. Thread them through the eyelets to the back and through the screw eyes at the
underside of the window frame, taking them both to one side of the window.
18. With the blind in the lowered position, trim the cords level, thread them through the acorn
and knot to secure.
19. Position the cleat at one side of the window frame, at a convenient height, and fix in place.

Roller Blinds:
The most practical treatment for windows throughout the home and ideal for the kitchen and
bathroom. Roller blinds, or roller shades as they are sometimes known, use a minimal amount of
fabric, lay flat against the window and roll up to let a maximum amount of light into the room. Best
mounted inside the window recess roller blinds can be teamed up with curtains, valances, pelmets
and swags and tails to give a coordinating look.
Usually roller blinds pull down from behind the roller, keeping them very close to the window.
However, if a fabric is used where the pattern or colour is printed on one side and does not show
through to the other side, it can pull down in front of the roller. In this case there could be light
showing at each side of the blind as it is not so close to the window.
Most roller blinds are made from kits which come in a range of sizes up to 8 feet (245 cms) wide
but, if the size of your window falls between sizes buy the next size up and cut it to size after the
brackets have been fitted. Specially stiffened, spongeable fabrics can be bought by the metre and
are available up to 69 inches (175 cms) wide. This makes joining widths of fabric unnecessary in
most cases as bulky seams can impair the working of the blind. Other fabrics can be used but
should be closely woven, lightweight and colourfast. These will need to be stiffened with an aerosol
spray or dipped into liquid stiffening solution before they are cut to size as this process may cause
the fabric to shrink, but it does stop the fabric from fraying which omits the need for side hems.
Fitting the Roller:
1. Decide whether the blind will be fitted inside or outside the window recess.
2. The brackets can be top fixed, face fixed or end fixed according to the position and the
space available.
3. The brackets must be level for the blind to pull up horizontally, so it is worth using a spirit
level if possible.

4. Screw the brackets in position making sure that the round pin-hole bracket is on the right-
hand side and that the square slot bracket is on the left-hand side. Place the brackets
1.25" (3 cms) down from the top when fitting the blind inside the recess. When fitting the
blind outside the recess, fix the brackets 2" (5 cms) above the window and wide enough
apart so that the roller covers the inside of the window frame.
5. Measure the exact distance between the brackets. If the roller needs to be cut, cut the
bare end. Fit the end cap over the cut end and hammer the pin through the hole in the
cap. Place the roller into the brackets to make sure it fits.
6. In most purchased kits, the roller has a marked line along its length. This is the line to
which the fabric will be attached. If there is no line then mark a straight line along the
length of the roller, making sure it is at right angles to the ends.
1. If the chosen fabric needs to be stiffened, this must be done before the fabric is cut to size
as it may shrink. Add at least 2” (5 cms) to the width and length to allow for this.
2. The width of the blind is the same width as the roller excluding the end fixtures. There is
no need to add hem allowances as the stiffened fabric will not fray.
3. The length of the blind, measure from the roller to the window sill and add a minimum of
12" (30 cms) for the roller to be covered with fabric and the casing allowance. For blinds
outside the recess, add a further 2" (5 cms) to the length. If the blind is to hang where it
might get splashed or stained easily, it is worth adding extra length so that the bottom can
be cut off when it gets dirty. This will add to the life of the blind. For blinds with a
decorative edge at the bottom, add an extra 6” (15 cms) to the length.
Plain Roller Blind:
This is the simplest window treatment to make. A length of

stiffened fabric is attached to a wooden roller and pulls up
and down. A dowel is slotted through a casing at the
bottom to add weight to the blind.
Plain roller blinds can be decorated with appliqué (learn

how to on page 108) if required. Alternatively, ribbon or
braid can be stitched across the width, above the dowel, to
add decoration.

The colour displayed to the left indicates the wood.
Requirements:
Roller blind kit with a side pulley mechanism, cut to the required size and fitted
inside or outside the window recess.
Fabric.
Fabric stiffener.
Matching thread.
Set square, ruler, pencil and sharp scissors.
Double sided adhesive tape, approximately 0.5" (12 mm) wide.
Making a Plain Roller Blind:
1. Stiffen the fabric following the manufacturers instructions, allow to dry and press.
2. Cut the fabric to the required size, using a set square to make sure all the sides are
absolutely square.
3. Lay the fabric on a flat surface, wrong side up, turn up 1.5" (3.75 cms) at the bottom edge
and stitch close to the raw edge. This measurement should be slightly bigger than half the
circumference of the dowel. It can be adjusted to fit any size of dowel.
4. Cut the dowel 0.75" (2 cms) shorter than the width of the blind and slide it into the casing.
5. Lay the blind on a flat surface and mark a line across the width, 0.5" (12 mm) down from
the top edge. If the blind is to roll down from behind the roller, mark this line on the right
side of the fabric. If the blind is to hang down in front of the roller, mark the line on the
wrong side of the fabric.

6. Position a length of double sided adhesive tape along the top edge of the blind, along the
marked line.
7. Lay the roller on a flat surface, making sure

that the pulley mechanism is to the correct
side.
8. Remove the protective strip from the

adhesive tape and press the top edge of the
fabric onto the roller. Make sure that the top
edge of the fabric is aligned exactly along
the marked line on the roller.
9. Roll up the blind by hand, slot it into the

brackets and pull the blind down.
10. Work the blind up and down until the required tension is achieved.

Scalloped Roller Blind:
This type of decorative edging incorporates loops through

which a brass pole is slotted, taking the place of the dowel.
There are a number of designs which can be used for this
type of edging including square, shaped and scalloped cut
outs. Whatever the shape, it is imperative to make a paper
pattern first.
The instructions below are for a scalloped edging.
Requirements:
Suitable fabric.
Roller blind kit with side pulley mechanism.
Fabric glue.
Set square, ruler, pencil, sharp scissors and compass.
Fabric stiffener.
Narrow brass pole, wide enough for the finished blind to fit between the finials (end
pieces).
Graph paper for pattern.

Making a Pattern for the Scallops:
1. Use a piece of graph paper half the width of the blind, by approximately 3.5" (9 cms) deep.
Mark which end will be the centre point. The scallops must be evenly shaped and spaced,
so use a compass or suitable object such as a cup or saucer to draw them. Approximate
dimensions for the scallops are 2" (5 cms) deep and 4" (10 cms) wide. There should be a
1" (2.5 cms) space between them and a half scallop at the outer edge.
2. Position the scallops so that either 1 falls in the centre of the blind or there is a space in the
centre (place a half scallop or half a space at the centre of the pattern).
3. Adjust the spaces and scallops until they fit evenly across the width. Cut out the scallops.
Making a Scalloped Roller Blind:
absolutely square.
3. Lay the fabric on a flat surface, right side up. Turn up 6" (15 cms) at the bottom edge and
press the fold lightly with your fingers. Make sure that the fold is at right angles to the side
edges.
4. Mark a line across the blind 1" (2.5 cms) up

from the fold and mark the centre point.
5. Lay the paper pattern onto the marked line

with the scallops towards the top of the
blind. Matching the centre points, draw
carefully around the scallops.

6. Repeat for the other half of the blind turning the paper pattern over.
7. Remove the paper pattern and extend each side of each scallop vertically down to the
folded edge.
8. Cut out the scallop shapes through both thicknesses and unfold the bottom edge.
9. Turn the blind over, so that the wrong side is uppermost. Spread fabric glue from the
bottom raw edge to the marked 1" (2.5 cms) line. Fold up the bottom edge, aligning the
scallops and press in place.
10. When the glue is dry remove 1 finial from the end of the brass pole. Thread the pole
through the loops at the bottom of the blind and replace the finial.
11. Lay the blind on a flat surface and mark a

line across the width, 0.5" (12 mm) down
from the top edge. If the blind is to roll down
from behind the roller, mark this line on the
right side of the fabric. If the blind is to hang
down in front of the roller, mark the line on
the wrong side of the fabric.
12. Position a length of double sided adhesive

tape along the top edge of the blind, along
the marked line.

side.
14. Remove the protective strip from the adhesive tape and press the top edge of the fabric
onto the roller. Make sure that the top edge of the fabric is aligned exactly along the
marked line on the roller.
15. Roll up the blind by hand, slot it into the brackets

and pull the blind down.
16. Work the blind up and down until the required

tension is achieved.
The picture to the left shows a roller blind with a turreted

bottom.

Shaped Roller Blind:
Adding a decorative bottom edge to a roller blind will add a

professional look to a plain roller blind. The decorative
edge can be almost any shape you wish. Perhaps
mirroring the shape of the pelmet, a soft curve or a square
geometric design.
When adding this type of decorative edging, the casing for

the dowel is move up from the bottom of the blind so that
the edging falls below the dowel.
On blinds made from patterned fabrics, a separate

decorative edging can be made from a plain coordinating
or contrasting fabric and stitched onto the blind.
The instructions below are for a scalloped edge.
Requirements:
Roller blind kit with a side pulley mechanism, cut to the required size and fitted
inside or outside the window recess.
Fabric.
Fabric stiffener.
Matching thread.
Set square, ruler, pencil, compass and sharp scissors.
Graph paper for pattern, 6" (30 cms) long by half the width of the blind.
Bondaweb, enough for the width of the blind by 6" (30 cms) long.

Making a Paper Pattern:
1. Place the graph paper on a flat surface and mark which side will be the centre of the blind.
Draw the shape along the bottom edge of the paper.
2. The scallops must be evenly shaped and

spaced with a half scallop at the centre edge,
so use a compass or suitable object to draw
them. There can be either a half or a whole
scallop at the outer edge. Approximate
dimensions for the scallops are 2" - 4" (5 - 10
cms) deep and 4" (10 cms) wide.
3. Adjust the size of the scallops until they fit

evenly across the width and cut out the shape.
Making a Shaped Roller Blind:
absolutely square.
3. Lay the fabric on a flat surface, wrong side up. Measure and mark a line across the width,
2" (5 cms) up from the bottom edge.
4. Place a piece of Bondaweb measuring 6" (30 cms) by the width of the blind, above the
marked line with the paper side up. Press lightly for 1 or 2 seconds and allow to cool.
5. Remove the backing paper from the Bondaweb, turn up 8" (40 cms) along the bottom
edge and press.
6. Work 1 row of stitches across the width of the blind, 6" (30 cms) up from the bottom edge,
making sure it is parallel to the bottom edge.
7. Work a second row of stitches, 1.5" (3.75 cms) above the first row. These rows of stitches
form the casing for the dowel. The width between them should be slightly more than half
the circumference of the dowel. It can be adjusted to fit any size of dowel.
8. Place the blind on a flat surface, wrong side up, and place the paper pattern on top so that
the top edge of the pattern is along the bottom line of stitches and the centre point is at the
centre of the blind.
9. Draw around the scallops on the paper pattern and repeat for the other half of the blind,
turning the pattern over. Cut around the scallops, through both thicknesses.

10. Slide the dowel in between the rows of stitches.
11. Lay the blind on a flat surface and mark a line across the width, 0.5" (12 mm) down from
the top edge. If the blind is to roll down from behind the roller, mark this line on the right
side of the fabric. If the blind is to hang down in front of the roller, mark the line on the
wrong side of the fabric.
12. Position a length of double sided adhesive tape along the top edge of the blind, along the
marked line.

side.
14. Remove the protective strip from the

adhesive tape and press the top edge of the
fabric onto the roller. Make sure that the top
edge of the fabric is aligned exactly along
the marked line on the roller.
15. Roll up the blind by hand, slot it into the

brackets and pull the blind down.
16. Work the blind up and down until the

required tension is achieved.

Roman Blinds:
With their clean, sophisticated lines, Roman blinds are one of the most stylish ways to dress up a
window. They are made to fit flat across the width of the window and pull up into folds.
Roman blinds can be made in all weights of fabric and are usually lined. They can be used as a
standalone window treatment outside the window recess or hung inside the recess behind curtains
and/or top treatments such as pelmets or valances to give a layered effect.
Being very tailored, it is essential that Roman blinds are cut accurately with the sides at right angles
to the top and bottom edges. It is also imperative that the pockets for the dowels are attached
horizontally across the blind and are all parallel to each other. If these points are not followed, the
blind will not operate correctly.
Where you are fitting a row of Roman blinds together, as on a large window or in a bay, the blinds
should butt together at the sides. You need to make sure that all the pleats are the same depth, with
the dowels running in a continuous line, and that the pattern on the fabric is level on all the blinds.
This also applies to blinds hung at other windows in the same room.
Fix the blind track or wooden batten in the chosen position, see the section relating to this subject
on page 5. If the blind is to hang inside the window recess, fix it to the underside of the window
frame. If the blind is to hang outside of the recess, fix it to the top of the window frame or above it.
Attach the adhesive side of the Velcro to the front edge of the wooden batten.
To calculate the length of fabric required, measure from the top of the track or batten to the chosen
length. See the section relating to measuring on page 7. Add the relevant hem allowances for the
style of blind to be made. Allow extra length for pattern matching (learn how to on page 132) where
necessary. Extra length is required for Hobbled Roman blinds on page 76.
The length of lining required will be the same as the fabric requirements minus any extra for pattern
matching.
To calculate the width of the fabric required, measure the length of the track or batten and add the
relevant amount of seam allowance for the style of Roman blind to be made. Divide this number by
the width of the fabric to be used and round up to the next whole number. This will be the number of
widths of fabric required. Allow an extra 1" (2.5 cms) for each seam when joining widths together
and make sure a full width is positioned in the centre with equal part widths added at each side.
The number of widths of lining required will be the same as the number of widths of fabric.

Bottom Up Roman Blind:
Roman blinds can be made to pull up from the bottom to

give privacy but not stop light coming into a room and,
teamed up with a pelmet, can give a unique and unusual
look.
Bottom up Roman blinds are more suitable outside the

window recess where there is a narrow window sill. Fixing
wires, to keep the blind against the window, are placed at
the sides of the window frame to make them less obtrusive.
I have chosen to use "net wires" as this is the cheapest and simplest way but for a more elegant
solution brass poles or café rods could be used but would need fixing brackets of some description.
When the blind is lowered (open) the pleats will fall below the bottom edge of the blind.
If fitted inside the window recess the pleats will lie on the window sill and could get damp if used in a
kitchen or bathroom.
Requirements:
Fabric.
Lining.
4 Hooks & 5 Eyelets.
Net wire, twice the finished length.
Cleat & Acorn.
Wooden or plastic doweling, 0.5” (12 mm) diameter. The length being 1.25" (3 cms)
less than the blind's width. One length for each fold.
Nylon cord, 4 x (length + the width of the blind).

Small plastic curtain rings large enough for the net wire to pass through.

1. To fit the curtain wires in place screw the eyes into the front edge of the window sill at
each side of the window frame.
2. Screw the eyelets into the front edge of the top of

the window frame, or a batten above the window,
directly above the eyes on the window sill. Screw
another eyelet into the edge of the window frame,
or wooden batten, at the side where the blind will
be pulled up.
3. Cut the net wire to the required lengths and screw

the hooks into each end. These wires must be
very taut when attached to the eyes.
4. Hook the wires onto the eyelets at the top and the bottom of the window.
5. To calculate the length of fabric required, measure between the eyelets on the window
frame and add 1" (2.5 cms). Add a further 2" (5 cms) for hems, allowing extra length for
pattern matching where necessary (learn how to on page 132).
6. To calculate the width, measure across the outside of the window frame and add 2" (5
cms). Add a further 2" (5 cms) for hems. Divide this number by the width of the fabric to be
used and round up to the next whole number. This will be the number of widths required.
Making a Bottom Up Roman Blind:
1. Cut 1 piece of fabric to the required size. If more than 1 width is required, join the widths
together with a flat seam (learn how to on page 138) making sure there is a full width in
the centre and equal part widths added at each side. Match the pattern where necessary.
Take care to cut the fabric accurately along the grain, centralising and positioning any
pattern. To spot the grain: Lengthwise (warp) and crosswise (weft) threads of fabric should
be woven at right angles on the fabric. These are the grain lines, and patterns on the
fabric should be printed to follow these lines exactly.
2. Cut out the lining to exactly the same measurements as the face fabric.
3. Lay the fabric on a flat surface, right side up.

4. Lay the lining, wrong side up, on the top. Smooth

out all the wrinkles and creases from the two
fabrics and pin them together.
5. Machine stitch down both sides and along the

bottom edge, 1" (2.5 cms) in from the raw edges.
6. Trim the 2 bottom corners and make a second

row of stitches across the bottom 0.25" (6 mm) in
from the raw edge. Insert a dowel into the channel
between the 2 rows of stitches.
7. Remove all the pins and turn the blind right side
out so that the dowel is inside the bottom edge of
the blind.
8. Press the blind, taking care to flatten the seams.
9. Lay the blind on a flat surface, lining side up, and pin the two layers together all over.
10. Draw a pencil line 2" (5 cms) down from the top raw edge
and divide the remainder of the length equally into sections
of between 8" - 12 " (20 - 30 cms).
11. Draw pencil lines across the width at these points so that
they are parallel to each other and at right angles to the
sides. These will be the sewing lines for the pockets to hold
the dowels. Each pleat or fold needs a dowel to support the
fabric from behind and the pockets need to be made from
lining to cover them. Rings are then sewn to these pockets
to support the blind on the wires.
12. To make up the pockets, cut strips of lining 3" (7.5 cms) wide and as long as the blind is
wide. If possible, cut these strips from the length of the fabric rather than across the width
as the weave is tighter and the pockets will wear better. Cut as many strips as you have
marked sewing lines on your blind.
13. Fold each strip in half lengthways, right

sides together and matching the raw
edges. Stitch across 1 end and down the
length, 0.5" (12 mm) in from the raw
edges.

14. Turn right side out. Fold in 0.5" (12 mm) at the open end
and press.
15. Pin the folded side of the pockets 0.5" (12 mm) above
the pencil lines, setting the ends of the pockets about
0.5" (12 mm) in from each side of the blind.
16. Thread up the sewing machine with threads to match

both the top fabric and lining and check the tension. Do
this by testing the machine with two different coloured
threads, one colour on the top and with the bobbin
threaded up with a second colour.
Make sure that only one colour shows from the front of the fabric, with the second colour
only showing on the back. Alter the tension accordingly. It is always worth using a new
sewing machine needle.
17. Sew the pockets to the blind along the marked lines. The machine stitching should be as
unobtrusive as possible on the front of the blind.
18. Place a batten, on the wrong side of the lining, 0.5"

(12 mm) down from the top raw edge and oversew
(learn how to on page 145) to the lining along its
length. Take the stitches through the lining and over
the batten.
19. Turn in 1" (2.5 cms) at the top edge, including the
batten, and slipstitch (learn how to on page 145) to
neaten.
20. Slide a length of wooden doweling into each of the pockets and oversew the open ends.
21. Hand sew the rings to each of the dowel pockets, the bottom edge of blind and on the
marked line 1" (2.5 cms) down from the top edge. Make sure the rings coincide with the
position of the net wires.

22. Thread the net wires up through all of the rings at the back of the blind and hook them
onto the eyelets.
23. Attach the nylon cords to the top 2 rings

on the back of the blind and thread
them through the eyelets at the top of
the window taking them both to one
side.
24. Cut the nylon cords level, with the blind

in the lowered position, and thread
them through the acorn. Knot to secure.
25. Attach the cleat to the wall at a convenient height. Pull up the blind and wind the cord
around the cleat in a figure of eight to secure.

Bound Edge Roman Blind:
Binding the edges can extenuate the shape and take the plainness off a Roman blind. Adding a
contrasting fabric or colour to the edges can coordinate a Roman blind with the rest of the soft
furnishings or colour scheme in any room.
Details of measuring and estimating fabric quantities are on page 58.
Requirements:
Suitable fabric.
Lining.
Wooden or plastic dowelling, 1.25" (3 cms)

less than the finished width of the blind, 1
length for each pleat.
Blind track or wooden batten, 1" (2.5 cms)

x 1" (2.5 cms) x the finished width of the
blind.
Nylon cord, 4 x (length + width of the

finished blind).
Small plastic curtain rings, approximately 0.5" (12 mm) in diameter, 3 for each pleat.
4 screw eyelets, for use with the wooden batten.
Binding, twice the finished length + the width of the blind, wide enough to have at
least 1" (2.5cms) showing on the right side.
Medium curtain weight tape, enough for the width of the finished blind.
Acorn and cleat.

Making a Bound Edge Roman Blind:
1. Cut 1 piece of fabric and 1 piece of lining to the required size, there is no need to add
allowances for side seam allowances as these edges will be bound but add 1” (2.5 cms) to
the length for the top hem allowance. If more than 1 width of fabric is required, join widths
together with a flat seam (learn how to on page 138). Make sure there is a full width in the
centre with equal part widths added at each side. If patterned fabric is used, match the
pattern across all the widths.
2. Lay the fabric on a flat surface, wrong side up.
3. Lay the lining on top, right side up. Smooth out all the
wrinkles and creases from the 2 layers and pin them
together.
4. Oversew (learn how to on page 145) a length of curtain

weight tape close to the bottom edge on the wrong side.
Bind the 2 side and bottom edges of the blind (learn
how to on page 111), making sure to cover the curtain
weight tape. Mitre the corners at both bottom corners
5. Lay the blind on a flat surface, lining side up, and pin the 2 sides together all over.
6. Measure 2" (5 cms) down from the top edge and draw a
line across the width of the blind at this point.
7. Divide the remaining length into equal sections of

between 8" and 12" (20 and 30 cms) with a half section
at the bottom edge and mark.
8. Draw a line across the blind at each of these marks. All

these lines should be parallel to the top edge and at right
angles to the side edges. These will be the sewing lines
for the dowel pockets.

9. To make up the pockets, cut strips of

lining, 3" (7.5 cms) wide and as long as
the blind is wide. If possible cut these strips from the length of the fabric rather than the
width as the weave is tighter and the pockets will wear better. Cut 1 strip for each full pleat
length.
10. Fold each strip in half width ways, right sides together and matching the raw edges.
Machine stitch across 1 end and down the length, 0.5" (12 mm) in from the raw edges.
11. Turn right side out. Fold in 0.5" (12 mm) at the raw edge
and press.
12. Pin the folded side of the pockets 0.5" (12 mm) above the
marked lines, with the ends of the pockets 0.5" (12 mm) in
from the sides of the blind.
13. Sew the pockets to the blind, through all thicknesses along
the marked lines.
14. Slide a dowel into each of the pockets and oversew the
open ends.
15. Hand sew the curtain rings to the outside edge of the
pockets. These should be positioned in rows down the
length of the blind, approximately 2" (5 cms) in from
each side edge and one row in the centre.
16. Turn down 1" (2.5 cms) to the wrong side, at the top
edge and press.
17. Pin and stitch the “sew” side of the Velcro across the top
of the blind, on the wrong side, close to the fold. Stitch
both sides in the same direction to avoid puckering.

19. Screw an eyelet into the underside of the batten, if used, directly above each line of rings
on the blind and 1 at the end of the batten to the side that the blind will be operated from.
20. Cut the nylon cord into 3 and knot 1 length

to each bottom ring. Thread the cords up
through the line of rings and through the
eyes on the batten, or the cord holders on
the track, taking all 3 cords to 1 side of the
window.
21. Trim the ends of the cords level, thread

them through the acorn and knot to
secure.
22. Position a cleat at a convenient height at

the side of the window and fix in place.
23. Pull up the blind, winding the cords round the cleat in a figure of 8 to hold it in place.

Butterfly Roman Blind:
To soften the look of a Roman blind a pleated butterfly

edge can be added. The extra fabric at the bottom of the
blind is pleated up and held in place with ribbon, or
decorative braid, and buttons. Therefore the butterfly effect
is stationary even when the blind is in the lowered position.
If this blind is fitted inside the window recess, allow

approximately 6" (15 cms) on the finished length for the
butterfly effect. This means that the blind will not cover the
window completely even when it is fully lowered, light will
shine in at the bottom between the butterfly effect.
For a coordinated effect this blind is ideal to team up with a Butterfly Valance.
The instructions below are for a lined butterfly Roman blind fitted outside the window recess.
The colour displayed to the left indicates the ribbon.
Requirements:
Fabric.
Lining.
Strips of wooden dowelling, 1.25" (3 cms) less than the blinds width. One for each
pleat.
Small curtain rings, approximately 0.5" (12 mm) in diameter.
Acorn and cleat.

Nylon cord, 2 x (twice the length + the width of the blind).
Wooden batten, approximately 1" (2.5 cms) x 1" (2.5 cms) x the width of the finished
blind.
3 screw eyelets.
50 cms of ribbon or decorative braid.
2 cover buttons.
Fabric marker and ruler.
Making a Butterfly Roman Blind:
1. Cut 1 piece of fabric and 1 piece of lining to the required measurements, adding 1" (2.5
cms) to the width to allow for side hems and 10" (25 cms) to the length for the butterfly
effect and hems. If more than 1 width is required, join widths together with a flat seam
(learn how to on page 138) and allow an extra 1" (2.5 cms) on the width for each seam.
Make sure there is a full width in the centre with equal part widths added at each side. If
pattern fabric is used, match the pattern across all widths.
2. Lay the fabric on a flat surface, right side up, and lay the lining on top, wrong side up,
3. Pin and stitch down both sides and along the bottom edge,
0.5" (12 mm) in from the raw edges. Trim the bottom
corners, turn right side out and press.
4. Lay the blind on a flat surface, lining side up.
5. Measure 8" (20 cms) up from the bottom edge and draw a
line across the width at this point.
6. Measure 2" (5 cms) down from the top edge and draw a line
across the width at this point.
7. Divide the length between the marked lines into equal

sections of between 8" and 12" (20 and 30 cms) with a half
section at the bottom.
8. Mark lines across the blind at all these points, making sure
they are parallel to the top edge and each other. These will
be the sewing lines for the pockets.

9. To make the pockets to hold the dowels, cut strips of lining 3" (7.5 cms) wide and as long
as the blind is wide. Cut 1 strip for each whole section.
10. Fold each strip in half width ways, right sides together, matching the raw edges.
11. Pin and stitch across 1 end and down the

length, 0.5" (12 mm) in from the raw
edges.
12. Turn right side out, fold in 0.5" (12 mm) at the open ends
and press.
13. Pin the folded side of the pockets centrally across the
width of the blind, 0.5" (12 mm) above each marked line.
14. Sew the pockets to the blind along the marked lines.
15. Slide a length of wooden dowelling into each of the

pockets and oversew (learn how to on page 145) the
open ends.
16. Hand sew the curtain rings to the outer edges of the
pockets. Position them in vertical rows down the length
of the blind, 4" (10 cms) in from the side edges.
17. Cut two 8" (20 cms) lengths of ribbon or braid and pin
one end of each onto the marked line at the bottom of
the half section. Position them 4" (10 cms) in from each
side edge with the right side up.
18. Turn down 0.5" (12 mm) to the wrong side, at the top
edge of the blind, and press.

19. Pin and stitch the "sew" side of the Velcro across the top of the blind, on the wrong side,
close to the top fold. Stitch both sides in the same direction to avoid puckering.
20. Cover the buttons (learn how to on page 120).
21. Lay the blind on a flat surface, right side up, and
pleat the bottom edge to the first dowel. Bring each
piece of ribbon or braid around the bottom edge and
pin it to the first row of stitches, 4" (10 cms) in from
the side edges. Adjust the length of the ribbon or
braid to hold the pleats in position, turning under 1"
(2.5 cms) to neaten. Trim the length if necessary.
22. Stitch a covered button over the end of each piece of

ribbon or braid to attach them to the blind. Take the
stitches through all thickness including the ends of
the ribbon or braid at the back of the blind.
23. Hang the blind by pressing both sides of the Velcro together.
24. Screw an eyelet into the underside of the wooden batten directly above each line of rings
and another at the end of the batten at the side to which the blind will be pulled up from.
25. Cut the nylon cord into 2 lengths and attach 1 length to each bottom ring.
26. Thread the cords up through the rings to the top of the blind and then through the eyelets
to 1 side of the window.
27. With the blind in the lowered position, trim the cords level, thread them both through the
acorn and knot to secure.
28. Position a cleat at a convenient height, at the side of the window and fix in place.

Fantail Roman Blind:
This unlined variation of a Roman blind is most suitable for

long narrow windows where a working blind is required but
a decorative bottom edge is preferred. The fantail is
stationary with the blind pulling up into pleats above it.
Therefore the fantail will always cover part of the window.
Although this blind is not difficult to make it is the planning

of the pleats that is time consuming and essential to get
right. It is therefore advisable to draw a scaled plan of the
blind before the fabric is cut to size.
The instructions below are for an unlined fantailed Roman

blind outside the window recess, fitted to the top of the
window frame.
Requirements:
Light to medium weight fabric.
Matching thread.
Wooden dowels, 0.25" (6 mm) in diameter.
3 screw eyelets.
Small curtain rings.
Nylon cord, twice (2 x length + width of the pleated section of the blind).
Graph paper for plan.
Fabric marker, pencil and ruler.

Planning a Fantail Roman Blind:
1. Draw a scaled rectangle on the graph paper to represent the finished size of the flat blind.
2. From the bottom edge, measure and draw a line

across the width to represent half the width of the
blind.
3. Divide the length below the marked line into 3 or

4 equal sections. These will be the pleats for the
fantail.
4. Mark a line across the width, to represent 1" (2.5

cms) down from the top edge.
5. Divide the length between the marked lines into

sections for the working pleats. There needs to
be a half section just above the fantail with full
sections above it.
6. Make a note of the actual measurements for each

section.
7. To calculate the length of fabric required, add the lengths of each section together and
add 1" (2.5 cms) for each marked line (marked with an X on the diagram). This extra fabric
is needed to make the channels for the dowels. Add a further 2" (5 cms) for the top and
bottom hems.
8. Add 2" (5 cms) to the finished width to allow for the side hems.
Making a Fantail Roman Blind:
1. Cut 1 piece of fabric to the required size.
3. Mark a line across the width, 2" (5 cms)

down from the top edge.
4. Measure a pleat length down from this

line and mark.
5. Measure 1" (2.5 cms) down and mark.

This is the fabric for the channel.

6. Continue in this way until all the pleats, the half pleat and the pleats for the fantail have
been transferred onto the fabric, making sure there is a 1" (2.5 cms) channel allowance
between each of the pleats.
7. Mark a line across the blind at each of the marked points, making sure all the lines are
parallel to the top edge and each other.
8. Finish by marking a line across the width 1" (2.5 cms) up from the bottom edge.
9. Starting at the top, fold the fabric across the width, right sides together, to bring both
marked lines for the channel together and pin.
10. Repeat for all the other channels.
11. Stitch the fabric together across the width to make the channels.
12. Insert a dowel into each of the channels

for the working pleats, down to the one at
the bottom of the half pleat.
13. Cut the dowels in half for the fantail and

insert them into the channels.
14. Turn up a double 0.5" (12 mm) hem at

the bottom edge and pin, inserting two
halves of a dowel in between the layers
of fabric.
15. Turn in a double 0.5" (12 mm) hem down each side edge and pin, taking all the channels
towards the top of the blind.
16. Slipstitch (learn how to on page 145) the side and bottom hems.
17. Turn down 1" (2.5 cms) at the top edge. Pin the "sew" side of the Velcro across the top, on
the wrong side, close to the fold. Stitch in place, working both sides in the same direction
to avoid puckering.
18. Lay the blind on a flat surface, wrong side up.

19. Starting at the bottom edge, pleat the centre of the fantail. Work the fabric into small pleats
up to the bottom of the half pleat. Oversew (learn how to on page 145) the folds of the
pleats, between the halves of the dowels, to secure. Make sure to catch all the folds into
the stitches.
20. Stitch a curtain ring to the outside edge of each

pocket, starting at the pocket above the half pleat.
Position them 2" (5 cms) in from each side edge.
21. Cut the nylon cord into 2 pieces and knot 1 length
to the bottom ring on each side.
22. Thread the cords up through the other rings

towards the top of the blind.
23. Stick the adhesive side of the Velcro to the top of

the window frame and press the blind in place.
24. Screw an eyelet into the window frame exactly

above the curtain rings and another at the edge of
the window from which the blind will be pulled up.
25. Thread the cords through the eyelets and the acorn. Knot to secure.
26. Position the cleat at a convenient height at one side of the window and fix in place.
27. Pull up the blind, winding the cords around the cleat in a figure of eight to secure and

Hobbled Roman Blind:
Hobbled blinds are a variation of Roman blinds with extra

fabric added to each pleat. This means that, even when
the blind is completely lowered, the extra fabric falls into
tailored folds covering the horizontal seam lines.
They can be fitted inside or outside the window recess and

are usually lined. Hobbled blinds can be made in all
weights but are not really suitable for sheer fabric as the
tapes and cords, which are added to the back, would
show.
The instructions below are for a lined hobbled blind fitted

onto a wooden batten outside the window recess.
Requirements:
Suitable fabric.
Lining.
Wooden or plastic dowelling, 1.25" (3 cms) less than the finished width of the blind.
One length for each pleat.
Wooden batten, 1" (2.5 cms) x 1" (2.5 cms) x the finished width of the blind.
Nylon cord, 3 x (twice the length + width of the finished blind).
Cotton tape, 0.5" (12 mm) wide x three times the finished length of the blind.
4 screw eyelets.
Small plastic curtain rings, approximately 0.5" (12 mm) in diameter.
Acorn and cleat.
Graph paper for the plan.

Planning a Hobbled Blind:
1. To calculate the length of fabric required it is advisable to

draw a plan of the blind on a piece of graph paper. Draw a
scaled rectangle on the graph paper to represent the
finished size of the blind. On the plan mark a line to
represent 2" (5 cms) down from the top edge.
2. Divide the remaining length into equal sections of between

8" and 12" (20 and 30 cms) with a half section at the bottom
edge. Mark the actual length of each section on the plan.
3. To obtain the hobbled look, add 2" (5 cms) to each of the

whole sections (do not add the extra length to the bottom
half section). Add a further 2" (5 cms) for the hem
allowances.
4. Add 2” (5 cms) to the width for seam allowances.
Making a Hobbled Blind:
1. Cut 1 piece of fabric and 1 piece of lining to the

calculated measurements. If more than 1 width of
fabric is required, join widths together with a flat
seam (learn how to on page 138). Make sure there
is a full width in the centre with equal part widths
added at each side. If patterned fabric is used,
match the pattern across all the widths.
2. Lay the fabric on a flat surface, right side up.
3. Lay the lining on top, right side down. Smooth out

all the wrinkles and creases from the 2 layers and
pin them together.
4. Machine stitch down both sides and along the bottom edge, 1" (2.5 cms) in from the raw
edges.
5. Trim the 2 bottom corners and make a second row of stitches across the bottom, 0.25" (6
mm) in from the raw edge. Insert a dowel into the channel between the 2 rows of stitches.

6. Remove all the pins and turn the blind right side out, so that the dowel is inside the bottom
edge and press.
7. Lay the blind on a flat surface, lining side up, and pin the 2
sides together all over.
8. Measure 2" (5 cms) down from the top edge and draw a line
across the width of the blind at this point.
9. Mark further lines across the blind at the calculated lengths

for each pleat including the extra fabric for the hobbled look,
ending with a half pleat at the bottom. All these lines should
be parallel to the top edge and at right angles to the side
seams. These will be the sewing lines for the dowel pockets.
10. To make up the pockets, cut strips of lining 3" (7.5 cms) wide and as long as the blind is
wide. If possible cut these strips from the length of the fabric rather than the width as the
weave is tighter and the pockets will wear better. Cut 1 strip for each pleat.
11. Fold each strip in half width ways, right sides together and matching the raw edges.
Machine stitch across 1 end and down the length 0.5" (12 mm) in from the raw edges.
12. Turn right side out. Fold in 0.5" (12 mm) at the raw edge and press.

the marked lines, with the ends of the pockets 0.5" (12
mm) in from the sides of the blind.
14. Sew the pockets to the blind, through all thicknesses

along the marked lines.
15. Slide a dowel into each of the pockets and oversew the open ends (learn how to on page
145).
16. Cut the cotton tape in three equal lengths. Sew 1 end of each piece onto the pocket at the
top of the half section at the bottom of the blind. Sew 1 in the centre and 1 approximately 4"
(10 cms) in from each side edge.
17. Sew the tapes to each of the pockets, on the outside

edge, up the length of the blind so that the length of
the tape is 2" (5 cms) less than the length of fabric in
each section finishing at the top edge. The tapes
should be sewn in lines parallel to the sides of the
blind. Trim the ends of the tape at the top edge if
necessary.
18. Hand sew the curtain rings to the pockets at the

same positions as the cotton tape.
19. Turn in the top raw edge of the blind taking 1" (2.5 cms) of fabric and lining in between the
2 layers and press. Slipstitch (learn how to on page 145) across the top edge.

20. Pin and stitch the “sew” side of the Velcro across the top of the blind, on the wrong side,
close to the fold. Stitch both sides in the same direction to avoid puckering.
22. Screw an eyelet into the underside of the batten directly above each line of rings on the
blind and 1 at the end of the batten to the side that the blind will be operated from.
23. Cut the nylon cord into 3 and knot 1 length

to each bottom ring. Thread the cords up
through the line of rings and through the
eyes on the batten, or the cord holders on
the track, taking all 3 cords to 1 side of the
window.
24. With the blind in the lowered position, trim

the ends of the cords level, thread them
through the acorn and knot to secure.
25. Position a cleat at a convenient height, at

the side of the window that the blind will be
operated from, and fix in place.
26. Pull up the blind, winding the cords round the cleat in a figure of 8 to hold it in place.

Plain Roman Blind:
With their clean, sophisticated lines, Roman blinds, or

Roman shades as they are sometimes known, are one of
the most stylish ways to dress up a window.
They can be used as a standalone window treatment

fitted outside the window or fitted inside the window
recess and combined with curtains and top treatments for
a layered look.
Roman blinds are best made from light to medium weight

fabrics and are usually lined.
The instructions below are for a lined plain Roman blind fitted onto a wooden batten.
Requirements:
Fabric.
Lining.
Strips of wooden or plastic dowelling, 1.25" (3 cms) less than the blind's width.
Small plastic rings, approximately 0.5" (12mm) in diameter.
Wooden or brass acorn.
Nylon cord, 3 x (twice the length of the blind + the width of blind).
Wall cleat.
Stick and sew Velcro enough for the width of the blind.
Wooden Batten approx 1” (2.5cms) x 1” (2.5 cms) x the width of the finished blind.
4 screw eyelets.

Making a Plain Roman Blind:
1. Cut the fabric to the required size adding 2” (5 cms) to the width for side seam allowances
and 2” (5 cms) to the length for hem allowances. If more than 1 width of fabric is required,
join widths together with a flat seam (learn how to on page 138). Make sure there is a full
width in the centre with equal part widths added at each side. If patterned fabric is used,
match the pattern across all the widths.
2. Cut out the lining to exactly the same measurements as the top fabric, omitting any extra
allowance for pattern matching.
3. Lay fabric on a flat surface, right side up.
4. Lay the lining on top, wrong side up, matching the

raw edges. Smooth out all the wrinkles and
creases from the two fabrics and pin them
together.
5. Pin and stitch down both sides and along the

bottom edges, 1" (2.5cms) in from the raw edges.
6. Trim the 2 bottom corners and make a second

row of stitches across the bottom, 0.25” (6 mm) in
from the raw edge. Insert a dowel into the channel
between the 2 rows of stitches.
7. Remove all the pins and turn the blind the right
side out.
8. Press the blind, taking care to press out and flatten the seams.
9. Lay the blind on a flat surface, lining side up, and pin the two
layers together all over.
10. Draw a pencil line across the width of the blind, 2" (5 cms)
down from the top raw edge.
11. Divide the rest of the length into equal sections of between
8" and 12" (20 and 30cms) with a half section at the bottom
edge and mark.
12. Draw pencil lines across the blind at these marks. All these
lines should be parallel to the top edge and at right angles to
the sides. These will be the sewing lines for the pockets.

13. To make up the pockets to hold the dowels, cut strips of lining fabric 3" (7.5 cms) wide and
as long as the blind is wide. If possible, cut these strips from the length of the fabric rather
than across the width as the weave is tighter and the pockets will wear better. Cut 1 strip
for each whole pleat.
14. Fold each strip in half width ways, right

sides together and matching the raw
edges.
15. Machine stitch across 1 end and down the length 0.5" (12mm) in from the raw edges.
17. Pin the folded side of the pockets to the pencil lines, 0.5"
(12 mm) above the marked lines with the ends of the
pockets 0.5" (12mm) in from each side of the blind.
19. The machine stitching should be as unobtrusive as

possible on the front of the blind.
20. Slide a length of wooden dowelling into each pocket

and oversew (learn how to on page 145) the open
ends.
21. Hand sew the plastic rings to the outer edges of the
pockets. These should be positioned in rows down the
length of the blind, 2" (5 cms) in from each side edge
and between 8" to 16" (20 to 40cms) intervals evenly
across the blind.
22. Turn down 1" (2.5 cms) to the wrong side, at the top
edge and press.
23. Pin and stitch the “sew” side of the Velcro across the
top of the blind, on the wrong side, close to the fold. Stitch both sides in the same direction
to avoid puckering.

25. Screw an eyelet into the underside of the batten directly above each line of rings on the
blind and 1 at the end of the batten to the side that the blind will be operated from.
26. Cut the nylon cord into 3 and knot 1 length to each bottom ring. Thread the cords up
through the line of rings and through the eyes on the batten taking all 3 cords to 1 side of
the window.
27. Trim the ends of the cords level, thread

them through the acorn and knot to
secure.
28. Position a cleat at a convenient height at

the side of the window and fix in place.
29. Pull up the blind, winding the cords round

the cleat in a figure of 8 to hold it in place.

Plain Roman Blind with Turret Bottom:
The look of a plain Roman blind can be enhanced by

adding a shaped lower edge and a decorative brass pole.
There are a number of shapes which can be used for this
type of edging, including geometric squares or triangles as
well as scallops. Whatever the shape, it is imperative to
make a paper pattern first as there needs to be a half
shape at each side edge to accommodate the ends of the
pole.
The shaped edge usually falls below the bottom edge of

the blind so it needs to be designed before the pleats
lengths are calculated.
The instructions below are for a lined Roman blind with a turreted bottom.
Requirements:
Wooden batten, approximately 1" (2.5 cms) by 1" (2.5 cms) by the width required.
Light to medium weight fabric.
Lining.
Matching thread.
Narrow brass pole, wide enough for the finished blind to fit between the finials (end
pieces).
Strips of wooden or plastic dowelling, 0.25" (6 mm) in diameter and the length being
1.25" (3 cms) less than the width of the finished blind.
Small curtain rings, approximately 0.5" (12 mm) in diameter.

Nylon cord, 3 x (twice the length plus the width of the blind).
4 screw eyelets.
Graph paper for pattern.
Pencil and ruler.
Making a Pattern for the Turreted Bottom:
1. Use a piece of graph paper which is half the width of the finished blind by approximately 4"
(10 cms) long and mark which end will be the centre of the blind.
2. The shapes must be evenly spaced

and shaped. There can be a whole
space or a whole shape at the centre
but there must be a half shape at
each side edge (place a half shape
or a half space at the centre of the
pattern). Approximate dimensions for
the shapes are 2" - 3" (5 -7.5 cms)
deep and 2" - 4" (5 - 10 cms) wide with 2” – 4” (5 - 10 cms) space between them.
3. Adjust the spaces and shapes until they fit evenly across the width.
4. Cut out the shapes.
Making a Roman Blind with a Turreted

Bottom:
1. Cut out 1 piece of fabric to the required size adding 1" (2.5 cms) to the width for side hems
and 5" (12.5 cms) to the length for the top hem and the shaped bottom. If more than 1
width of fabric is required, join widths together with a flat seam (learn how to on page 138).
Make sure there is a full width in the centre with equal part widths added at each side. If
patterned fabric is used, match the pattern across all the widths.
2. Cut the lining to the same size as the fabric omitting any extra for pattern matching.

3. Lay the fabric on a flat surface, right side up, lay the lining on top, wrong side up, matching
the raw edges and pin together.
4. Mark a line 8" (20 cms) up from the bottom edge and mark the centre point.
5. Lay the top edge of the paper pattern

onto the marked line, matching the
centre points and draw around the
shapes.
6. Repeat for the other half of the blind,

turning the paper pattern over.
7. Remove the pattern and extend each

vertical line down to the bottom raw
edges. Cut out the shapes through
both thicknesses.
8. Pin and stitch down both sides and

around the shapes, 0.5" (12 mm) in from the raw edges, clipping the corners where
necessary. Turn right side out and press.
9. Fold up 3” (7.5 cms) of the bottom edges of the shapes to the wrong side of the blind and
pin.
11. Draw a line across the width, 2" (5 cms) down from the top
edge.
12. Divide the length between the two marked lines into equal
sections of between 8" and 12" (20 and 30 cms) with a
half section at the bottom.
13. Draw lines across the blind at these marks. All the lines
should be parallel to the top edge and at right angles to
the sides. These will be the sewing lines for the pockets.

14. To make the pockets, cut strips of lining

3" (7.5 cms) wide and as long as the
finished width of the blind.
16. Stitch across one end and down the length, 0.5" (12 mm) in from the raw edges. Turn right
side out, turn in 0.5” (12 mm) at the open end and press.
each of the marked lines and centrally across the width.
18. Stitch in place along the marked lines.
19. Slide a wooden dowel into each of the pockets.
20. Oversew (learn how to on page 145) the open ends of

the pockets.
21. Hand sew the curtain rings to the outer edges of the
pockets. They should be positioned in vertical rows down
the length of the blind, 2" (5 cms) in from each side with
1 row in the centre.
22. Turn down 1" (2.5 cms) at the top edge and press.
23. Stitch the "sew" side of the Velcro along the top edge, on
the wrong side, close to the fold. Stitch both sides in the
same direction to avoid puckering.

25. Slide the brass pole into the loops at the bottom edge. Adjust the length of the loops if
necessary and slipstitch (learn how to on page 145) to secure.
26. Screw an eyelet to the underside of the batten directly above each line of rings and
another at the end of the batten to the side that it will be pulled up.
27. Cut the nylon cord into 3 lengths and knot 1 length to each bottom ring. Thread the cords
up through the rings and the eyelets, taking all of them to one side.
28. Trim the ends of the cords level, thread them through the acorn and knot to secure.
29. Position a cleat at a convenient height at one side of the window and fix in place.

Pointed Roman Blind:
This unusual variation of a Roman blind is made with the

rings stitched to the front of the blind so that the pleats fall
to the back. It needs to have a contrasting fabric or
coloured lining because it will show on the bottom pleats
when the blind is pulled up.
The side and bottom edges are bound in a contrasting

colour or fabric to accentuate the pointed lower edge.
It is best made in light to medium weight fabric and can be

fitted inside or outside the window recess.
Details of measuring and estimating fabric quantities are

on page 58.
The colour displayed to the left indicates the right side of the main fabric.
Requirements:
Fabric in 2 contrasting colours or designs.
Wooden batten, fitted in the chosen position. Approximately 1" (2.5 cms) x 1" (2.5
cms) x the finished width of the blind.
Wooden dowels, approximately 0.5" (12 mm) in diameter. 1 for each pleat.
Nylon cord in a matching colour to the face fabric, if possible. Approximately 2 (twice
the length + width of the finished blind).
Small curtain rings, approximately 0.5" in diameter, 2 for each pleat.
1 screw eyelet.

Binding, at least 2" (5 cms) wide, 1" (2.5 cms) for each side of the blind. Enough for
the side and bottom edges of the shaped blind.
1 penny curtain weight.
Acorn and cleat.
Making a Pointed Roman Blind:
1. Cut both pieces of fabric to the required size, adding 1" (2.5 cms) to the length for the top
hem. If more than 1 width of fabric is required, join widths together with a flat seam (learn
how to on page 138) and match the pattern across all widths where necessary. Allow an
extra 1" (2.5 cms) on the width for each seam. Make sure there is a full width in the centre
with equal part widths added at each side.
2. Lay the face fabric on a flat surface, wrong side up, and lay
the lining fabric on top, right side up, matching the raw edges.
3. Pin the two layers together around all the edges.
4. Measure and mark 2" (5 cms) down from the top edge. Draw
a line across the width at this point.
5. Divide the length below the marked line into equal sections of
between 8" and 12" (20 and 30 cms) with a half section at the
bottom. Draw a line across the width at each of the points
making sure they are parallel to the top edge and each other.
6. Fold both layers in half width ways, right sides together, and draw a line
from the outside raw edge of the second marked line to the bottom of
the fold.
7. Cut along the marked line, through all thicknesses to shape the point.

8. Unfold and position a penny weight (learn how to on page 107) at the bottom of the point
on the wrong side and tack (learn how to on page 146) to secure.
9. To make the pockets to hold the dowels, cut strips of the contrasting fabric 3" (7.5 cms)
wide and as long as the blind is wide. Cut 1 strip for each whole section.
11. Pin and stitch down the length, 0.5" (12

mm) in from the raw edges.
13. Pin the folded side of the pockets centrally across the width of the blind, 0.5" (12 mm)
above each marked line.
15. Slide a length of wooden dowelling into each of the pockets

trimming them to the correct length where necessary.
16. Bind (learn how to on page 111) the side and pointed
edges, mitring all the corners (learn how to on page 113).
Make sure to insert the ends of the pockets into the
binding, taking the pockets towards the top of the blind and
to cover the pennyweight.
17. Turn down 1" (2.5 cms) to the wrong side, at the top edge
of the blind and press.
18. Stitch the "sew" side of the Velcro along the top edge, on the wrong side, close to the fold.
Stitch both sides in the same direction to avoid puckering.
19. Lay the blind on a flat surface, right side up.
20. Hand sew a curtain ring onto each side of the bottom line of stitches, just inside the
binding.

21. Hand sew 2 curtain rings to all the other lines of stitches and at the bottom of the Velcro,
directly above the bottom ones.
22. Cut the cord into 2 lengths and knot 1 length to each bottom
ring.
23. Thread the cord up through all the other rings.
24. Hang the blind by pressing the 2 sides of Velcro together.
25. Screw an eyelet to the top of the window frame at the side
the blind will be operated from and thread both cords
through it.
26. With the blind in the lowered position, trim the cords level,
thread them through the acorn and knot to secure.
27. Position a cleat at a convenient height, at the side of the

window and fix in place.

Relaxed Roman Blind:
A relaxed Roman blind is an ideal treatment for small

windows. They do not have dowels at the back of each
pleat giving a less formal effect than tailored Roman
blinds. A single dowel is inserted into the bottom hem to
keep the blind flat.
Curtain rings are stitched directly onto the back of the

fabric so that it can be made lined or unlined.
Relaxed Roman blinds can be fitted inside or outside the

window recess on a wooden batten or a blind track and
are best made in light to medium weight fabrics.
The instructions below are for an unlined Relaxed

Roman blind fitted onto a wooden batten.
Requirements:
Wooden batten, 1" (2.5 cms) by 1" (2.5 cms) by the width of the window frame.
Lightweight fabric and matching thread.
Stick and sew Velcro, the finished width of the blind.
Small curtain rings.
Nylon cord, twice (2 x length + width of the blind).
Wooden dowel, approximately 0.5" (12 mm) diameter. The length being 1" (2.5 cms)
less than the width of the blind.
3 screw eyelets.
Acorn and cleat.

Making a Relaxed Roman Blind:
1. Cut 1 piece of fabric to the required size adding 3” (7.5 cms) to the length and 8” (20 cms)
to the width for hem allowances.
2. Lay the fabric on a flat surface, wrong side up. Turn in a double 2" (5 cms) hem at each
side edge, pin and stitch.
3. Turn up a double 1" (2.5 cms) hem at the bottom edge, pin and stitch close to the top fold.
4. Slide the wooden dowel into the bottom hem

and slipstitch (learn how to on page 145) each
end of the hem to secure the dowel.
5. Turn down 1" (2.5 cms) at the top edge and

press.
6. Pin and stitch the "sew" side of the Velcro along

the top edge on the wrong side, close to the fold.
Work both sides in the same direction to avoid
puckering.

Measure and mark approximately 10" (25 cms)
intervals up each side of the blind, starting at the
top of the bottom hem, on the inside edge of the
side hems.
8. Stitch a curtain ring on each of the marked positions including the top of the bottom hem.
Stitch through both layers of the hemmed fabric but not through the front layer.
9. Cut the nylon cord into 2 equal lengths. Knot 1 length to the bottom ring on each edge and
thread them up through all the other rings.
10. Stick the adhesive side of the Velcro to the front edge of the batten and press the blind in
place.
11. Screw an eyelet into the underside of the batten exactly above the lines of curtain rings
and another at the end of the batten from which the blind will be pulled up.
12. Thread the cords through the eyelets, taking both to one side.
13. Thread both cords through the acorn and knot to secure.
14. Position the cleat at a convenient height at one side of the window frame and fix in place.
15. Pull up the blind, winding the cord around the cleat in a figure of eight to secure.

Staggered Roman Blind:
Staggering the pleats on Roman blinds can eliminate the bunched up look when the blind is pulled
up. This is achieved by increasing the length of each successive pleat by 2” (5 cms). However, this
means that the pleats will take up more space when the blind is completely pulled up, but this can
be overcome by positioning the blind higher above the window frame if there is sufficient space.
Bound Edge Roman blinds on page 64, Plain Roman blinds on page 81, and Waterfall Roman
blinds on page 98 can easily be adjusted to give a staggered look.
Follow the instructions for the individual style of Roman blind you intend making until you reach the
following Step.
Bound Edge Roman Blind Step 6
Plain Roman Blind Step 10
Waterfall Roman Blind Step 4
Once this has been done, measure the distance down the length of the blind from this marked
pencil line to the bottom fold. This distance we will refer to as the “Pleating Length” or PL.
To calculate the size of the pleats it is essential to draw a plan of the “Pleating Length” on paper.
This is because each pleat length will increase down the length of the blind with the half pleat at the
bottom being half the length of the one above it.
Calculating the Individual Pleat Lengths:
1. Decide how many pleats will be

required. This obviously depends on the
finished length of the blind but as a
guide have 1 pleat for every 10” (25
cms) of the finished length. Example
with a finished length of 60” (150 cms) I
would suggest having 6 whole pleats
with a half pleat at the bottom. We will
refer to the number of pleats you decide
upon as WP.
2. On the paper draw a rectangle to

represent the “Pleating Length”.
3. In order to calculate the lengths of the

individual pleats you first need to know
the length of the first or top pleat. There
is a formulae for calculating this
providing you work in Imperial
measurement (inches).

Length of Pleat 1 = PL – [(WP + 1) x (WP –1)] divided by WP + ½
This may look complicated but follow the next 2 examples using real world numbers.
Example 1: The Pleating Length or PL is 42” and we have decided to have 4 whole pleats or WP
with a half pleat at the bottom.
Length of Pleat 1 = 42 – [(4 + 1) x (4 –1)] divided by 4 + ½
= [42 – (5 x 3)] divided by 4 ½
= (42 – 15) divided by 4 ½
= 27 divided by 4 ½
=6
Example 2: The Pleating Length or PL is 72” and we have

decided on 7 whole pleats or WP with a half pleat at the
bottom.
Length of Pleat 1 = 72 – [(7 + 1) x (7 –1)] divided by 7 + ½
= [72 – (8 x 6)] divided by 7 ½
= (72 – 48) divided by 7 ½
= 24 divided by 7 ½
= 3.2
4. Starting at the line 2” (5 cms) down from the top edge, measure and mark the calculated
length for each pleat.
5. Draw a line across the blind at each of these marks. These will be the sewing lines for the
dowel pockets.
6. Continue to follow the relevant instructions for the chosen style of Roman blind.

Waterfall Roman Blind:
Adding a waterfall effect to a Roman blind can transform it

from a tailored flat blind into a softer, sculptured blind. The
waterfall effect is achieved by gathering the fabric across
the width of the blind at intervals down the length, with a
fullness ratio of between 1.5 and 2.
The extra amount of fabric can make the blind quite bulky,
so waterfall Roman blinds are best made in lightweight
fabrics and are usually unlined.
Dowels are inserted into pockets at the back and the blind
is pulled up with cords threaded through rings which are
attached to the pockets.
Details of measuring and estimating fabric quantities are on page 58 .
Requirements:
Lightweight fabric.
Wooden batten, 1" (2.5 cms) x 1" (2.5 cms) x the width of the blind.
Strips of wooden dowelling, approximately 0.5" (12 mm) in diameter and the length
being 1.25" (3 cms) less than the blind is wide. Allow 1 dowel for each pleat.
Small plastic rings, approximately 0.5" (12 mm) in diameter.
Nylon cord, 3 x (twice the length + the width of the blind).
4 screw eyelets.
Acorn and cleat.
Matching thread.

Making a Waterfall Roman Blind:
1. Cut 1 piece of fabric to the required size, multiplying the measured width by between 1.5
and 2 for the chosen fullness ratio. This will include 2" (5 cms) for the side hems. If more
than 1 width of fabric is required, join widths together with a French seam (learn how to on
page 139). Make sure there is a full width in the centre with equal part widths added at
each side. Add 3" (7.5 cms) to the measured length for the top and bottom hem
allowances.
3. Measure and mark a line across the width, 2" (5

cms) up from the bottom edge.
4. Measure and mark a line across the width, 2" (5

cms) down from the top edge.
5. Divide the length between the 2 marked lines into

equal sections of between 8" and 12" (20 and 30
cms) with a half section at the bottom.
6. Draw lines across the width of the blind at all these

marks. The lines should be parallel to the top edge
and each other. These will be the gathering lines and the sewing lines for the pockets.
7. Work rows of gathering stitches (learn how to on page 140), across the width of the blind,
close to the top and bottom raw edges and along all the marked lines.
8. Pull up all the gathering threads so that the fabric measures the width of the blind plus 2"
(5 cms). Adjust the gathers evenly across the width, leaving 1" (2.5 cms) flat at each side
edge.
9. To make the pockets to hold the dowels,

cut strips of fabric, 3" (7.5 cms) wide and
as long as the blind is wide. Cut 1 strip
for each pleat.
11. Stitch across 1 end and down the length, 0.5" (12 mm) in from the raw edges.

13. Pin the folded side of the pockets 0.5" (12 mm)
above the marked lines, where the fabric has been
gathered, and centrally across the width.
14. Sew the pockets to the blind along the marked

lines, between the rows of gathers, making sure to
keep the gathers even.
15. Remove the gathering stitches from these lines.

Do not remove the gathering stitches from the top
and bottom edges.
16. Insert a dowel into each of the pockets.
17. Turn in a double 0.5" (12 mm) hem down both side edges and slipstitch (learn how to on
page 145), taking the pockets towards the top of the blind and tucking the ends into the
hems.
18. Turn up 1" (2.5 cms) along the bottom edge. Place
a wooden dowel above the raw edge and turn up
another 1" (2.5 cms) covering the dowel. Slipstitch
the sides and top edges of the hem, encasing the
dowel.
19. Turn down 1" (2.5 cms) along the top edge, to the
wrong side.
the top edge, on the wrong side, close to the fold.
puckering.
21. Hand sew plastic rings to the outer edges of the pockets. These should be positioned in
vertical rows down the length of the blind, 2" (5 cms) in from each side edge and 1 row in
the centre.

22. Cut the nylon cord into 3 lengths and attach 1 length to each bottom ring.
23. Thread the cords up through the other rings towards the top of the blind.
25. Screw an eyelet into the underside of the batten directly above each line of rings and 1 at
the end of the batten to the side the blind will be operated from.
26. Thread the cords through the eyelets, taking them all to one side.
27. With the blind in the lowered position, cut the nylon cords level, thread them through the
acorn and knot to secure.
28. Position a cleat at a convenient height at the side of the window and fix in place.
29. Pull up the blind, winding the cord around the cleat in a figure of eight to secure.

Tie Up Blinds:
Tie Up blinds are very easy to make, are economical on fabric and give a stylish look to windows.
Lengths of ribbon, or decorative braid, are stitched to the top of the blind and are tied to hold it in the
chosen position. This can make it very difficult to get the blind horizontal so they are usually fitted
where a working blind is not required.
Tie Up blinds can be attached to the top of the window frame to cover the whole window or attached
inside the recess.
1. Attach the wooden batten in the required position and stick the adhesive side of the Velcro
to the front edge. See the section relating to this on page 5.
2. To calculate the length of fabric required, measure from the top of the batten to the
required length. To this measurement add the hem allowances of the chosen style. If
patterned fabric is used, extra will be needed for pattern matching (learn how to on page
132).
3. To calculate the width of fabric required, measure the width of the wooden batten and add
the hem allowances for the chosen style. Divide this figure by the width of fabric to be
used and round up to the next whole number. This will be the number of widths required.
Allow an extra 1" (2.5 cms) for each seam, if widths need to be joined together.

Relaxed Tie Up Blind:
The fact that this blind is pleated by hand and tied up with
ribbons makes it very time consuming to use as a working
blind.
Relaxed tie up blinds are usually made from sheer fabrics

and unlined to let the light filter through.
See the section on measuring and estimating fabric

quantities on page 102.
Requirements:
Sheer fabric.
Matching thread.
Ribbon, approximately 2" (5 cms) wide by 6 times the length of the blind.
Making a Relaxed Tie Up Blind:
1. Cut 1 piece of fabric to the required size, adding 4” (10 cms) to the width and the length for
hem allowances. If more than 1 width is required, join widths together with a French seam
(learn how to on page 139). Make sure there is a full width in the centre with equal part
widths added at each side.

2. Turn in a double 1" (2.5 cms) hem on all sides, mitring all the corners (learn how to on
page 136). Pin, stitch and press.
3. Cut the ribbon into 2 equal lengths and mark the centre of each length.
4. Position 1 length of ribbon, approximately 6" (15

cms) in from each side of the blind. If widths have
been joined together, position the ribbons over the
seam lines. Pin the centre of each ribbon to the
top edge of the blind with the right side out, one
half down the front and the other half down the
back of the blind making sure they are at right
angles to the top edge.

the top edge of the blind, on the wrong side, close
to the top fold. Stitch through all thicknesses,
including both halves of the ribbon, taking both
sides in the same direction to avoid puckering.
6. Hang the blind by pressing both sides of the Velcro together.
7. Pleat the blind up from the bottom edge, by hand, to the required height and tie the
ribbons in bows to secure.

Rolled Tie Up Blind:
Rolled Tie Up blinds need to be double sided as both sides will

show when the blind is rolled. This means that they need to
have fabric on both sides. The two fabrics can be matching,
coordinating or contrasting colours or designs giving each blind
a unique look.
A shortened version of this blind can be used as a flat valance

when it is called a Stagecoach Valance.
See the section on measuring and estimating fabric quantities

on page 102.
Requirements:
Fabric in 1 or 2 colours or patterns.
Matching thread.
Ribbon, approximately 2" (5 cms) wide by 6 x length of the blind.
Wooden dowel, 1.5" (3.75 cms) shorter than the width of the finished blind.

Making a Rolled Tie Up Blind:
1. Cut one piece of each fabric to the required size, adding 2" (5 cms) to both the width and
the length for hems, making sure any pattern on the fabric is centred. If more than 1 width
is required, join them together with a flat seam (learn how to on page 138). Allow an extra
1” (2.5 cms) on the width for each seam. Make sure there is a full width in the centre with
part widths added at each side and any pattern is matched across all widths (learn how to
on page 132).
2. Lay the front fabric on a flat surface, right side up.
3. Cut the ribbon into 2 equal lengths and fold each

length in half. Pin the folded end to the top edge of
the fabric between 6" and 12" (15 and 20 cms) in
from the sides. Make sure that the ribbons are at
right angles to the top edge and are equal
distances from the sides. If widths are joined
together position the ribbons over the seam lines.
4. Place the back fabric on top, right side down,

matching the raw edges. Pin the layers together
around 3 sides and 4 corners leaving an opening
at the top edge, between the ribbons, for turning.
Machine stitch 1" (2.5 cms) in from the raw edges
making sure not to catch the ribbons in the
stitches.
5. Make a second row of stitches along the bottom edge 0.25" (6 mm) in from the raw edge.
6. Slide the wooden dowel in between the 2 rows of stitches on the bottom edge.
7. Turn right side out through the opening at the top so that the dowel is inside the bottom
edge.
8. Turn in the raw edge along the top in line with the seam and press.
9. Pin the sew side of the Velcro along the top edge of the wrong side of the blind, close to
the fold, with 1 side of each ribbon under the Velcro and the other side free. Move the free
lengths of ribbon out of the way and stitch both edges of the Velcro in the same direction to
avoid puckering.
10. Stick the adhesive side of the Velcro to the window frame and press the blind in place
taking 1 side of the ribbons to each side of the blind.
11. Roll up the blind to the preferred height and tie the ribbons in a bow to hold the blind in
place.

Sewing Techniques:
Adding Curtain Weights:
Some curtains drape better if weights are added to the bottom hem. Lead "penny" weights are
usually round with 2 holes in the centre, rather like buttons. These weights are used for medium to
heavyweight fabrics. Using the holes, they can be sewn directly onto the hem allowance at the
bottom of seams and at mitred corners. However, I prefer to cover them with scraps of lining fabric
before attaching them to the hem allowance. This gives a neater result and prevents the lead from
discoloring the fabric.
1. To cover a number of penny weights

together saves time. To do this lay a piece
of lining fabric on a flat surface, wrong side
up.
2. Place rows of weights about 1" (2.5 cms)

apart and at 1" (2.5 cms) intervals.
3. Fold the lining over the top of the weights,

4. Pin the 2 layers of lining together between

the weights.
5. Work 2 rows of machine stitches between each of the weights, encasing each one.
6. Cut the lining between the rows of stitches.
7. When attaching the weights, tack the square of lining on all sides to the hem allowance.
For all weights including nets and sheer fabrics lead-weight tape can be used instead of penny
weights. These tapes come in various weights and are like a minute string of sausages. Thread
them into the finished hems of curtains and valances being careful not to pucker the fabric, secure
at each end and the bottom of seams with oversew stitches (learn how to on page 145).

Appliqué:
Appliqué is a method of applying layers of fabric to make

a picture or design and is an ideal way of using up
oddments of fabric. In its simplest form, appliqué can be
achieved by stitching lengths of ribbon onto a fabric
surface to create a pattern. In its most intricate form, it is
numerous layers and shapes of fabric stitched onto a
background to build up a picture.
Choice of fabrics and surface detail will depend on where the article is to be used and if it will need
regular laundering. Wherever possible, cut the motifs to follow the same grain line as the
background fabric. If motifs are cut on the bias, they tend to pull out of shape when being attached.
Almost anything made from fabric can be embellished and personalized with appliqué including
curtains, tie backs, pelmets, bedspreads, duvet covers, pillow cases, pillow shams and cushions.
As long as the basic shape is sufficiently simple to be easily cut out and applied, almost any picture
or illustration can be adapted for appliqué.
The colour displayed to the left indicates the right side of the main fabric.
Appliqué Persé:
To coordinate plain and patterned fabrics, part of a design from

the patterned fabric can be cut out and appliquéd onto the plain
one, forming a personal combination.
1. Cut out a motif from a patterned fabric, using small

sharp scissors to give a clean outline and attach it to
the main fabric in the same way.

2. Pin the motifs in place on the background fabric until the

desired effect is achieved before attaching them
permanently.
3. Work straight machine stitches or small back stitches

(learn how to on page 141) to enhance any detail in the
motif.
Reverse Appliqué:
This is where a coordinating or contrasting piece of fabric is

either attached to the right or wrong side of the main fabric.
Shapes are then cut out from the top layer of fabric, using
small sharp scissors, to reveal the fabric underneath.
Machine zig zag or small, close blanket stitches (learn how to

on page 141) are then sewn around the shape to neaten the
edges.
This form of appliqué is ideal where large geometric designs

are required.
Applying Appliqué:
1. Make sure all the fabrics to be used are clean, colourfast and preshrunk.
2. Preheat a dry iron to the silk setting and place the Bondaweb, paper side up, on the wrong
side of the fabric. Press lightly for 1 to 2 seconds and allow to cool.
3. Trace around the required shape on the right side of the fabric and cut out with sharp
scissors.
4. Peel off the backing paper, place the shape

in the desired position and press for 4 to 6
seconds making sure there are no creases.
Allow to cool.

5. Set the sewing machine to a short wide zig zag stitch. Use a top thread to match the
shape colour and a bobbin thread to match the main fabric colour.
6. Position the fabric under the pressure foot so that the edge of the shape is just to the left of
the needle when the needle is in the far right position.
7. Zig zag slowly around the shape following the outline. For tight inside curves insert the
needle to the right, lift the pressure foot and pivot the fabric. For tight outside curves insert
the needle to the left, lift the pressure foot and pivot the fabric.
To attach the shape by hand, work small close

blanket stitches (learn how to on page 141) around
the shape keeping the stitches as even as possible
and at right angles to the raw edge.

Binding and Piping:

Binding is a way of neatening a raw edge using a separate length of fabric, usually in a contrasting
colour.
Piping is a way to emphasize a seam or edge and can add strength to corners that might receive a
lot of wear.
For both binding and piping strips of fabric cut on the bias are used as this makes them slightly
stretchy.
Cutting Bias Strips:
1. To cut bias strips fold the fabric diagonally so that a

straight edge is parallel to the selvedge (the side of
the fabric).
2. Press this fold and use this crease as a guide to mark

parallel lines for bias strips.
3. To join bias strips place two lengths,

right sides together, right angles to
each other and stitch.
4. Open out, press seam open and trim off

the overlapping edges.

Continuous Bias Binding Strip:

There are times when a long length of bias strip is required for binding or piping. Here is a quick way
of cutting a long length. A large piece of fabric is required, the length being more than twice the
width.
1. Lay the fabric on a flat surface, wrong

side up.
2. Find the true bias by folding the fabric

diagonally until the straight edge is
parallel to the selvedge. Press and cut
along the fold.
3. Cut off 2 diagonally opposite corners at

right angles to the first cut.
4. Mark 0.5" (12 mm) seam allowance along each edge.
5. Mark lines, parallel to the first cut, for the

width of binding required.
6. Fold the fabric, right sides together, with

the 2 short crossways sides together. Line
up the end of the first marked line on one
edge with the edge of the fabric on the
other edge and the seam lines together.
7. Pin and stitch along the seam line to form

a tube.
8. Trim the seam allowance to 0.25" (6 mm)

and press the seam open.
9. Start cutting the continuous strip at the

extended edge and cut round and round
the tube exactly on the marked lines,
making sure to keep the strip and even
width. The bias strip can now be folded
and used for binding or piping.

Binding an Edge:
1. Cut bias strips 4 times the finished width of the

binding required.
2. Fold both raw edges to the centre on the back,

down the length of the bias strips and press.
3. Open up one side of the binding. Place this

side of the binding onto the right side of the
fabric with raw edges matching and pin.
4. Stitch along the fold line of the binding.
5. Fold the binding over the raw edge to the wrong

side of the fabric.
6. Pin and slipstitch (learn how to on page 145) the

fold of the binding to line of stitches on the wrong
side.
Mitring the Corners on Bias Binding:

When attaching bias binding along the sides of a square or rectangle the corners of the binding
need to be mitred to give a crisp corner.
1. Starting half way along 1 edge of the main

fabric, open the binding and place the right
side of the binding onto the right side of the
fabric with raw edges matching and pin.
2. Stitch along the fold line on the binding

stopping the same distance in from the
corner.
Example:
If the stitching line is 0.5” (12 mm) in from the raw edge stop 0.5” (12 mm) in from the
corner.

3. Work a few reverse stitches to secure and

remove from the sewing machine.
4. Fold the loose end of the binding up,

making an angle of 45 degrees.
5. Keeping the diagonal fold in place, fold the

binding back down aligning the raw edges
with the next side of the main fabric.
6. Starting at the point where the last stitch

ended stitch down the next side.
7. Continue in this way around all edges

mitring the other corners in the same way,
folding in the ends of the binding and
overlapping them to neaten where they join.
8. Turn the folded edge of the binding onto the

wrong side of the main fabric and pin.
9. Slipstitch (learn how to on page 221) the

folded edge of the binding to the main fabric
along the line of machine stitches.
10. Fold the binding at an angle of 45 degrees

at each corner to form a mitre and slipstitch
across the mitre.

Piping:
Piping can be made by covering cord with strips of bias cut fabric (learn how to on page 111). The
cord comes in a range of thicknesses and is readily available from fabric and upholstery stores.
1. Cut and join enough bias strips for the

required length and wide enough to cover
the cord plus the seam allowance.
2. Lay the cord in the centre, on the wrong

side of the bias strip.
3. Fold the bias strip over the cord matching the raw edges.
4. Stitch the 2 sides of the bias strip together along the length. Use a zipper foot on the
sewing machine to ensure that the stitches are close to the cord.
5. To attach the piping cord to a straight edge, pin it

to the right side of the main fabric matching the raw
edges.
6. To turn a corner, clip the seam allowance on the

piping cord up to the line of stitches. Ease the
piping cord around the corner and proceed pinning
it along the next edge.
7. To attach piping cord to an outside curve, place it

onto the right side of the main fabric matching the
raw edges. Pin it in place, clipping the seam
allowance to ensure that the fabric lays flat.
8. To attach piping cord to an inside curve, work in

the same way as an outside curve allowing the
seam allowance to overlap where it is clipped.

Joining the Ends of Piping Cord:

There are times when the ends of the piping cord need to be joined and neatened, when piping a
cushion for instance. Try to position the join in an inconspicuous place, at the back edge of a
cushion for example.
1. Cut the piping cord 1” (2.5 cms)

longer than is necessary.
2. Stitch the piping cord in place starting

and finishing 1.5” (3.75 cms) from the
join.
3. Unpick 1” (2.5 cms) of the stitching on one end of the piping cord, pull the cover back and
cut the cord leaving the fabric.
4. Turn in 0.5” (12 mm) at the end of the fabric to neaten.
5. Place the other end of the piping

onto the neatened end of the fabric
butting the ends of the cord together.
6. Fold the neatened end over and

stitch in place close to the cord.
Piping Cord into a Seam or Hem:

There are occasions when the end of the piping cord needs to be stitched into a seam or hem. The
covered cord is very bulky and this can lead to problems when it needs to be folded for a hem or
stitched across its width.
1. Stitch the piping cord in place to the

raw edge of the fabric.
2. Measure from the raw edge, the

distance of the fold or stitching line.
3. Pull the cord out from the end of the

cover, trim the measured amount and allow the cord to slip back into the cover.
4. The hem can now be folded, or the seam stitched, just beyond the end of the cord taking
only the fabric of the binding, to give a smoother finish.

Gathered Piping:
Gathered piping can give a very striking edge to a seam. It looks stunning when used on cushions
to give a touch of luxury.
The strips of fabric are cut on the straight of grain, not the bias, so that the fabric does not stretch.
1. Cut enough strips of fabric for twice the length of the cord and wide enough to go around
the cord plus 1" (2.5 cms).
2. Stitch all the strips together with a flat seam (learn

how to on page 138) and press the seams open.
3. Wrap the fabric strip around the cord, right side

out, matching the raw edges.
4. Stitch across the end of the strip and through the

cord to secure.
5. Using a zipper or piping foot on the sewing

machine, stitch along the fabric strip, close to the
cord for about 8" (20 cms).
6. With the needle in the fabric, lift the foot and

gently pull the cord, gathering the fabric.
7. Lower the foot and continue in the same way until

all the fabric has been stitched.
8. Stitch across the end of the strip to secure the cord

in the fabric.
9. Attach the gathered piping cord in the same way as

plain piping making sure to keep all the gathers as
even as possible.

Cord Tidy Bag:
This handy little bag is made from a scrap of lining fabric and is sewn in the bottom edge of the
heading tape at the back of curtains and valances. When the cords are pulled up on the heading
tape it is not advisable to cut them off so that the pleats can be let out for cleaning or when the
curtains are moved to another window but to leave them hanging at the back of the treatment is
unsightly. They can be tucked into the end of the heading tape but long cords can be too bulky for
this. Once the cords are secured, they can be rolled up and inserted into a cord tidy bag where they
are tangle free and out of site.
Requirements:
A scrap of lining fabric 10" (25 cms) long by 3" (7.5 cms) wide.
Matching thread.
Making a Cord Tidy Bag.
1. Lay the lining on a flat surface, right side

up.
2. Measure 4" (10 cms) down from the top

edge and fold the bottom end up at this
point.
3. Measure 3" (7.5 cms) up from this 1st fold

and make a 2nd fold so that the bottom raw
edge lays on top of the 1st fold.
4. Pin and machine stitch down both sides,

0.5" (12 mm) in from the raw edges.

Attaching the Cord Tidy Bag:
1. When pinning the heading tape in place on curtains or valances, slip the top edge of the
cord tidy bag under the heading tape, 2" (5 cms) from the outside edge of the curtain or
valance (the side where the ends of the heading tape have been freed) so that the top fold
of the bag comes just below the bottom edge of the heading tape.
2. Stitch the heading tape in place catching the top of the cord tidy bag in the bottom row of
stitches.
3. Once the cords have been pulled up on the heading tape, secure them with a sliding loop,
roll them around your fingers and place them into the bag.

Covering Buttons:
Self covering buttons come in sizes 15 mm, 19 mm, 22 mm, 29 mm and can be made from metal or
plastic, both of which are equally suitable. Each button consists of a front section that you cover
with fabric. The back section is then pressed in place to cover the raw edges of the fabric. They can
be covered in matching or contrasting colours or fabrics.
Small off cuts of fabric can be used as only circles that are twice the size of the covering button are
required. When using patterned fabrics, it is advisable to use the same part of the pattern for each
of the covered buttons required as this gives a more professional effect.
1. Cut a circle of fabric approximately twice the

diameter of the cover button.
2. Using strong or double thread, make a row of

small running stitches (learn how to on page 145)
near the edge of the circle.
3. Place the front section of the cover button in the

centre of the circle of fabric.
4. Hold the button in place and pull up both ends of

the thread to gather the fabric to the rear of the
front section. Knot the thread firmly.
5. Place the back section of the cover button over the gathered fabric and press in place.

Curved Hems:
Turning up a hem on a curved edge can be tricky as the outer edge of the fabric is longer than the
fabric it is to be stitched to.
1. To make this easier, work 1 line of gathering stitches along the top fold of a double hem or
close to the raw edge for a single hem.
Example: If a double hem 0.25” (6 mm) hem is to be made, machine the line of gathering
stitches 0.25” (6 mm) in from the raw edge.
2. Pull up the gathering threads slightly, arranging the gathers evenly, until the edge of the
fabric lifts.
3. Turn up the hem with the line of gathering stitches along the top fold and pin at 1” (2.5
cms) intervals.
4. Stitch slowly around the hem close to the top fold, remove the gathering stitches and
press making sure there are no creases in the hem.

Frills:
Frills can be added to the seams or edges of a number of soft furnishings, giving a softer look but
can be time consuming to make. The width of the frill must be in proportion to the rest of the fabric
area. If the frill is too wide it will be overpowering, too narrow and it becomes insignificant.
There are a number of different styles in two main categories.
Gathered frills give a more feminine effect. These can be single or double layers of fabric, gathered
at one edge or in the centre. They require a fullness ratio of between 1.5 and 2.5 for medium to
heavy weight fabrics and between 2 and 3 for very lightweight fabrics.
Pleated frills give a more tailored effect whether they are knife or box pleats stitched at one edge or
in the centre. They require a fullness ratio of 3.
Before cutting the fabric strips for the frill, it is advisable to make a trial piece in the proposed width
and fullness to check the proportions are correct. Pin this in place and adjust the width and/or
fullness until the desired effect is achieved.
The colour displayed to the left indicates the binding or the second contrasting fabric.
Fabric Requirements:
It is surprising how much fabric is required for frills, so never assume that off cuts will be sufficient,
always estimate for extra fabric. Plain fabrics and those with small designs are more suitable for
frills as a lot of fabric is wasted when large patterns are matched at the seams.
1. To estimate the amount of fabric needed, decide on the type of frill and the fullness ratio
needed.
2. Measure the seam or edge to be frilled and multiply this by the chosen fullness ratio.
3. Divide this by the fabric width and round up to the next whole number to work out the
number of strips required.

4. Multiply this by (the length of the frill plus hem and seam allowances) to obtain the amount
of fabric required. If patterned fabric is to be used there must be a whole number of
patterns in each strip of fabric to allow for pattern matching (learn how to on page 132) .
This sounds very complicated but the Alternative Windows Fabric Estimating Software will work it
out for you in the click of a button.
Bound Frills:
This is an easy way of adding a contrasting edge to the bottom of a double sided frill without the
extra work of binding it. It is especially significant when using patterned fabrics where each side of
the frill is cut separately.
1. Cut enough strips of fabric for each side of the frill, for the chosen fullness ratio. Stitch the
strips together for each side of the frill, with a flat seam (learn how to ).
2. Cut enough strips of the contrasting edge to fit along the bottom edge of the frill and join
the strips together with a flat seam. The length needs to be double the finished length plus
1" (2.5 cms) for seam allowance.
3. Place one strip of fabric on a flat surface, right side

up, and place the contrasting strip on top, wrong
side up, matching the bottom raw edges.
4. Pin and stitch together, 0.5" (12 mm) up from the

raw edge.
5. Place the bottom edge of the other strip of fabric

along the top of the contrasting strip, right sides
together and matching the raw edges.
6. Pin and stitch together,0.5" (12 mm) in from the

raw edge.
7. Fold the strip in half lengthways, right sides together, matching the top raw edges. Pin and
stitch down each side edge, 0.5" (12 mm) in from the raw edges.
9. The frill can now be gathered or pleated

along the top edge and stitched into a seam.
Make sure to gather or pleat both layers of
fabric together.

For double edged frills, a contrasting strip can be added to the top edge in the same way. However,
one side edge will need to be left open for turning. Once turned to the right side, fold in 0.5" (12 mm)
at the open edge and slipstitch (learn how to ) to close.
The frill can now be gathered or pleated along the centre and added to an edge.
Double Edged Gathered Frills:

This style is used when a frill is stitched onto the right
side of a seam or hem as a decorative edging as on
tie backs, valances etc. Both edges are hemmed with
the gathering stitches positioned in the centre of the
frill giving the appearance of 2 frills, one above the
gathers and one below.
The strips of fabric are cut to the finished length of the

frill plus 2" (5 cms) for hem allowances. Alternatively,
the edges could be bound (learn how to on page 111), overlocked or zig zagged in a contrasting
colour to accentuate the frill, in which case there would be no need to add the hem allowance.
Making Double Edged Gathered Frills:
1. Cut enough strips of fabric for the chosen fullness ratio and stitch all the strips together with
a 0.5" (2.5 cms) French seam (learn how to on page 139), to make one long strip. Match
the pattern on the fabric where necessary (learn how to on page 132).
2. Turn in a double 0.25" (6 mm) hem across each end and stitch to neaten.
3. Turn in a double 0.5" (12 mm) hem at the top and bottom edges and stitch to neaten.
Alternatively bind, overlock or zig zag the top and bottom edges to neaten. Press all the
seams.
4. Fold the frill in half lengthways and press lightly to form a crease.
5. Open out the frill and work 2 rows of gathering stitches (learn how to on page 140), 1 either
side of the centre crease. When working with very long lengths, it is advisable to divide the
frill into sections and gather 1 section at a time.
6. Pull up the gathering threads, adjusting the gathers evenly until the frill fits the required
edge.
7. Pin the frill in place, right side up, on the right side of the fabric so that the centre crease is
along the fold at the edge of the seam or hem. Stitch in place along the crease, between
the 2 rows of gathering stitches.

8. Remove the gathering threads.
9. A variation of this frill is to position the

gathering stitches one quarter of the way
down the fabric rather than in the centre.
This gives a narrow frill above the gathers
with a longer frill below them.
Double Sided Gathered Frills:

This style of frill is used when both sides of the frill
may be seen as on curtains, cushions, valances,
reversible duvet covers etc. However, if patterned
fabric is used, the design will be upside down on one
side of the frill.
The strips of fabric are cut to twice the finished length

of the frill plus 1" (2.5 cms) seam allowance. The
fabric is folded in half and both layers are gathered together and stitched into a seam.
Making Double Sided Gathered Frills:
a 0.25" (6 mms) flat seam (learn how to on page 138), to make one long length. Match the
pattern on the fabric where necessary (learn how to on page 132).
2. Neaten each end by folding the fabric in half, right sides together, and stitch across the
end, 0.5" (12 mm) in from the raw edge. Repeat for the other end and turn right side out.
3. Press all the seams open.
4. Fold the fabric in half lengthways, wrong sides

together, matching the raw edges at the top.
5. Work 2 rows of gathering stitches (learn how to on

page 140) along the top edge through both
thicknesses. When working with very long lengths, it
is advisable to divide the frill into sections and gather
1 section at a time.
edge.

7. Pin the frill in place, wrong side up, on the right side of the fabric, matching the raw edges
with those of the seam and stitch in place, 0.5" (12 mm) in from the raw edge, between the
2 rows of gathering threads.
9. Zig zag or overlock the raw edges to neaten and press the seam allowance towards the flat
fabric.
Pleated Frills:
Pleated frills give a more tailored effect than gathered ones but can be more time consuming as the
pleats are measured, marked and folded by hand. They can be inserted into a seam or hemmed
and stitched onto an edge in the same way as gathered frills. There are 2 types of pleats, knife and
box, both requiring a fullness ratio of 3. The width of each pleat can vary between 1" and 4" (2.5 and
10 cms), measured from fold to fold, depending on where the frill is used. As the folds of the pleats
are butted up against one another it is imperative that the frill is made to exactly 3 times the length
to which it is to be stitched.
Marking and Folding Box Pleats:
1. Lay the frill on a flat surface, right side up.
2. Working from left to right, measure the actual width of the pleat and place a pin in the frill
at right angles to the top edge. Repeat this along the frill until there are 3 times as many
spaces as there will be pleats.
3. Working from left to right, fold the frill so that the 1st pin meets the 2nd pin, taking the
excess fabric to the back. Pin the fold at right angles to the top edge.
4. Bring the 3rd pin to meet the 4th pin and fold, taking the excess fabric to the back. Pin the
fold at right angles to the top edge.
5. Repeat the last 2 steps for all the other pins along the frill, making sure to keep all the
folds at right angles to the top edge.

Marking and Folding Knife Pleats:
1. Lay the frill on a flat surface, right side up.
2. Working from left to right, measure the actual width of the pleat and place a pin in the frill at
right angles to the top edge.
3. From this mark, measure twice the width of the pleat and mark with a pin.
4. Repeat the last 2 steps along the frill.
5. Working from left to right, fold the frill so that the 1st pin meets the 2nd pin, taking the
excess fabric to the back. Pin the fold at right angles to the top edge.
6. Now fold the frill so that the 3rd pin meets the 4th pin, taking the excess fabric to the back.
Pin the fold at right angles to the top edge.
7. Now fold the frill so that the 5th pin meets the 6th pin, taking the excess fabric to the back.
Pin the fold at right angles to the top edge.
8. Continue in this way all along the frill making sure all the pleats are at right angles to the
top edge.
9. The instructions above are for knife pleats folded to the right. For knife pleats folded to the
left, follow the instructions above but working from right to left.
Making Pleated Frills to Stitch into a Seam:
1. Cut enough strips of fabric for a fullness ratio

of 3. Add an extra 1" (2.5 cms) for each
seam allowance and 0.5" (12 mm) for each
end hem. Add 1" (2.5 cms) to the length for
hem and seam allowances.

2. Stitch all the strips together with a 0.5" (12 mm) French seam (learn how to on page 139),
to make one long length. Match the pattern on the fabric where necessary (learn how to on
page 132).
3. Neaten each end by turning in a double 0.25" (6 mm) hem, pin and stitch.
4. Turn up a double 0.25" (6 mm) hem along the bottom edge, pin, stitch and press.
5. Mark and fold the frill into box or knife pleats.
6. Tack (learn how to on page 146) the pleats in place 0.25" (6 mm) down from the top edge.
7. Press all the pleats in place down the length of the frill.
8. Pin the frill in place, wrong side up, on the right

side of the fabric, matching the raw edges with
those of the seam and stitch in place 0.5" (12
mm) in from the raw edge.
9. Remove the tacking stitches.
10. Zig zag or overlock the raw edges to neaten and

press the seam allowance towards the flat fabric.
Making Double Edged Pleated Frills:
1. Cut enough strips of fabric for a fullness

ratio of 3. Add an extra 1" (2.5 cms) for each
seam allowance and 0.5" (12 mm) for each
end hem. Add 1" (2.5 cms) to the length for
hem and seam allowances.
2. Stitch all the strips together with a 0.5" (12 mm) French seam (learn how to on page 139),
to make one long length. Match the pattern on the fabric where necessary (learn how to on
page 132).
4. Turn up a double 0.25" (6 mm) hem along the top and bottom edges, pin, stitch and press.
5. Fold the frill in half lengthways and press lightly to form a crease.
6. Mark and fold the frill into box or knife pleats.

7. Tack (learn how to on page 146) the pleats

in place along the centre crease.
8. Press all the pleats in place down the length

of the frill.
9. Pin the frill in place, right side up, on the

right side of the fabric, matching the centre crease on the frill with the seam line on the
main fabric. Stitch the frill in place along the crease.
11. A variation of this frill is to position the stitches one quarter of the way down the fabric
rather than in the centre. This gives a narrow frill above the stitches with a longer frill below
them.
Single Gathered Frills:

This style of frill is used when only 1 layer of fabric is necessary as on unlined curtains, valances
etc. Fabric strips are joined together, hemmed at the bottom edge, gathered and stitched into a
seam. Add 1" (2.5 cms) to the length for hem and seam allowances.
Alternatively the bottom edge could be bound (learn how to on page 111), overlocked or zig zagged
in a contrasting colour to accentuate the frill, in which case add 0.5" (12 mm) to the finished length
for the top seam allowance.
Making Single Gathered Frills:
a 0.5" (12 mms) French seam (learn how to on page 139), to make one long length. Match
the pattern on the fabric where necessary (learn how to on page 132).

3. Turn up a double 0.25" (6 mm) hem along the bottom edge, pin, stitch and press.
4. Work 2 rows of gathering stitches (learn how to on page 140) along the top edge. When
working with very long lengths, it is advisable to divide the frill into sections and gather 1
section at a time.
edge.
6. Pin the frill in place, wrong side up, on the right side of the fabric, matching the raw edges
and stitch in place, 0.5" (12 mm) in from the raw edge, between the 2 rows of gathering
threads.
8. Zig zag or overlock the raw edges to neaten and press the seam allowance towards the flat
fabric.
For a double layered frill, cut 2 strips of fabric in

contrasting fabrics or colours.
Cut 1 between 0.5” (12 mm) and 1” (2.5 cms) longer

than the other.
Join and hem both pieces in the same way as for

single gathered frills and then gather the two layers
together along the top edge.

Inserting a Zip:
1. Place the 2 edges of fabric, right sides together

and tack (learn how to on page 146) along the
seam line.
2. Stitch the seam, close to the tacking stitches,

leaving an opening where the zip is to be inserted.
3. Press the seam allowance open.
4. Place the zip, wrong side up, over the tacked

section of the seam. The zip can be placed
centrally or the teeth can be placed to one side of
the seam allowance for a lapped zip.
5. Pin and stitch the ends and the sides of the zip,
using a zipper foot on your sewing machine, close
to the teeth. Note the direction of the stitches on
the diagrams.

Matching Patterned Fabrics:
Whatever you are making it is inevitable that sooner or later you will have to join widths of fabric
together. This is simple until there is a pattern to contend with. All patterned fabrics have a repeated
pattern down their lengths. This is called the "pattern repeat" and is measured from a point in one
pattern to the same point in the next pattern.
Most patterned fabrics match horizontally across the width. All the cut lengths have to start at the
same point in the pattern so that they match at the seams when they are joined. Therefore a cut
length has to be a multiple of the pattern repeat.
Where large patterns are used it is better to have a full pattern at the hemline and a part pattern in
the heading where it is less noticeable.
Cutting Out:
It is advisable to check the fabric for faults before it is cut because suppliers will not exchange cut
lengths.
1. Lay the fabric, right side up, on a large flat surface with the top of the pattern at the top.
2. Measure the first length along the selvedge, positioning the pattern where it is required
and mark with a pin. Do not cut until all the required lengths have been measured to
ensure that there is sufficient fabric.
3. Measure the required number of pattern repeats from the pin and mark.
4. Repeat this until the required number of lengths have been marked.
5. At each mark cut the fabric at right angles to the selvedge. As each length is cut place
a safety pin on the right side at the top to ensure that all the lengths will be joined the
correct way up. This is more important when using double-sided patterned fabrics or
ones with two-way designs.
6. If a half width of fabric is required, fold one length in half, matching the selvedges.
Press along the fold. Unfold the fabric and cut along the fold. Mark the right side at the
top of each half width.
Stitching Widths Together:
1. Place one cut length, right side up, on a flat surface.

2. Place a second cut length, wrong side up, on top, matching the top raw edges and the
selvedges.

3. Turn back the seam allowance down the length of the top piece of fabric and press the
fold with your finger.
4. Adjust the position of the top piece of fabric until the pattern matches at the fold.
5. Working down the length of the fabric, release the folded edge and pin both pieces of
fabric together, along the fold when the pattern is matched. This fold will be the
stitching line.
6. Check that the pattern is matched correctly from the right side.
7. Machine stitch along the fold.
8. Repeat this procedure until the required widths of fabric have been joined together. Add
half widths at the outside edge of curtains but always join them at the selvedge.
9. Make sure that the bottom edge is straight across all the widths and trim if necessary.
10. Measure the length required from the bottom raw edge and cut off the excess fabric where
necessary.

Mitring a Border:
Always cut the lengths of fabric for borders longer than is necessary, by at least the width of the
finished border, for each mitre.
The excess can be trimmed as the mitres are formed.
To prepare the border lengths, turn in a seam allowance along each side edge and pin.
Fold the border in half lengthways, press and remove the pins.
Mitring a Corner at Right Angles (90°):
1. Open the end of 1 border length and fold both

corners into the centre fold. Press the diagonal
folds and cut across each corner on these folds.
2. Repeat for the next border length.
3. Pin and stitch the 2 lengths, right sides together,

0.5” (12 mm) in from the raw edges of the diagonal
cuts.
4. Clip the seam allowance across the point and turn

right side out. Press the seam allowance open.

5. If the border is to be mitred at a right

angle again, pin it along the edge of the
main fabric to the next corner and let it
extend by the width of the border. Cut off
any excess at this point.
6. Repeat steps 1 to 3 for this mitre.
Mitring a Corner not at Right Angles:
1. Pin the 2 prepared border lengths onto the main

fabric overlapping the ends at the corner. Make
sure the inside folds on the borders are on the
stitching lines of the main piece of fabric.
2. Pin the 2 border pieces together across the width

where the inner and outer folds meet. This will be
the stitching line.
3. Fold both border pieces back along the pins and press.
4. Trim each border piece parallel to the pins allowing 0.5” (12 mm) for seam allowance.
5. Remove both border pieces from the main fabric and unfold.
6. Pin the 2 pieces together across the angled width

and check they are correct by placing them up to
the angled corner.
7. Stitch the 2 border pieces, right sides together,

along the fold.
8. Turn right side out and press the seam allowance

open.

Mitring a Hem:
This is a neat way of finishing a corner and is less bulky, especially on heavier fabrics.
1. Fold up a single or a double hem, mark with a pin

where the top fold will come, and press.
2. Fold in the side hem, mark with a pin where the

inside fold will come, and press.
3. Open out the hems.

4. Fold in the corner triangle to the pins.
5. Turn up a single or a double hem at the lower
edge.
6. Turn in the side hem.

7. Slipstitch across the corner (learn how to on page
145).

Quilting:
This is a way of padding fabric for warmth or protection. Wadding or batting is placed between 2
layers of fabric with all the layers cut to the same size. All 3 layers are then stitched together to form
decorative channels or compartments.
The design on patterned fabrics can be enhanced by quilting the fabric using the outline of the
design as the quilting lines.
The colour displayed to the left indicates the lining or backing fabric.
1. Lay the lining or backing fabric on a flat surface wrong side up.
2. Lay the wadding or batting on top.
3. Lay the face fabric on top right side up.
4. Pin and tack all 3 layers together at regular intervals across the width and down the length.
5. Turn all layers over and mark the quilting lines with a fabric pen. Make sure all the lines are
straight and parallel to each other.
6. Set the sewing machine to a

slightly longer stitch than
normal and stitch along each
of the quilting lines. Remove
the tacking stitches.

Seams:
Throughout this manual we have used a variety of seams. Here we will show you how to stitch all of
these.
Flat Seam:
A simple way of joining 2 pieces of fabric with a single row
of stitches.
1. Place the fabric pieces, right sides together,

2. Pin, tack, and stitch, 0.5" (12 mm) in from the raw
edges.
3. Work a few stitches in reverse at each end to

secure.
4. Press the seam allowance open.
Flat Fell Seam:

This is a strong, self-neatening seam that is often used in soft furnishings but a row of stitches will
show on the right side.

1. With right sides together, edges matching, pin, tack and stitch the fabric, taking a 0.5" (12
mm) seam allowance. Trim down 1 seam allowance to 0.25" (6 mm).
2. Fold the wider seam allowance in half to enclose the trimmed seam allowance.
3. Press the folded edge against the fabric.
4. Pin, tack and stitch through all thicknesses close to the fold.
French Seam:
A self-neatening seam that is usually used to join sheer fabrics where no stitches show on the right
side.
1. With wrong sides together, edges matching, tack and stitch the fabric, taking a 0.25" (6
mm) seam allowance.
2. Trim the seam allowance to half its size.
3. Refold the fabric with right sides together, to enclose the raw edges.
4. Pin and stitch a second seam just big enough to cover the raw edges.

Gathering:
Gathering is used to add frills. A frill before it is gathered needs to be at least 1.5 times it's finished
length, but making it twice as long gives a much better effect.
When gathering on a sewing machine, use a heavy-duty thread on the bobbin for extra strength and
loosen the upper tension slightly.
1. Work 2 rows of stitches, 0.25" (6 mm) either side of the

seam line and knot the threads at one end.
2. Gently pull the bobbin threads from one end feeding the
fabric evenly down the gathers.
3. Wind the threads in a figure of eight round a pin at the side
when the required length is achieved.
4. Instead of machine stitches a small running stitch (learn
how to on page 145) can be used especially when a long
length is to be gathered. It may take longer but there is
less chance of the thread breaking.

Stitches:
Throughout this manual we have indicated the use of different types of stitches which some of you
may be unfamiliar with. Here a number of the techniques used for popular stitches are described
and illustrated.
The colour displayed to the left indicates the lining fabric.
Backstitch:
Backstitch is the strongest hand stitch and is used to imitate machine stitches.
Work backstitch from right to left.
1. Begin with a couple of stitches worked on the spot, and then take a stitch and a space.
2. Take the needle back over the space
and bring it out the same distance in
front of the thread.
3. Continue to the end of the seam.
4. Fasten off with a couple of stitches on

the spot.
Blanket Stitch:
Blanket stitch can be used to neaten the edge of the fabric or as a decorative stitch, when worked in
a contrasting colour.
1. Begin with a few back stitches.

2. Insert the needle into the fabric, 0.25" (6
mm) in from the edge, with the needle
pointing away from the fabric.
3. Hold the thread under the needle point

and pull the needle through, forming a
loop along the fabric edge.

Buttonhole Stitch:
This stitch gives a strong finish to a raw edge and is used for buttonholes or for sewing on fasteners.
The stitch length can be long or short.
1. Work from left to right, with the needle

pointing in towards the fabric.
2. Fasten the thread with a few

backstitches.
3. Insert the needle into the fabric behind

the edge. Take the working thread and
twist it round the point and pull the
needle through.
4. Pull the thread so that a knot forms on the edge of the fabric.
Catchstitch:
This is a hemming stitch used for bulky fabrics or curved areas.
1. Work from right to left.
2. Fasten the thread to the edge of the

folded fabric with a few backstitches.
Make a diagonal stitch from right to left,
then, with the needle pointing to the left,
make a small stitch in the fabric from right
to left.
3. Bring the needle out and make a diagonal stitch from right to left.
4. Do not pull the thread too tight.
Chain Stitch:
This is a decorative stitch which can be used in straight lines or curves. Worked on the right side of
the fabric from right to left.
1. Knot the end of the thread and bring the

needle through to the right side.
2. Take the needle back into the same

place and make a small stitch.

3. Loop the thread under the point of the needle and pull through. Do not pull the thread too
tightly.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 taking the needle inside the last link of the chain.
5. To finish off take the needle through to the wrong side, over the last link of the chain and
knot.
Hemming Stitch:
This is a way of stitching a hem so that it is almost invisible from the right side.
1. Work from right to left with a single thread.
2. Fasten the thread with a knot inside the

hem.
3. Bring the needle out of the hem and pick

up a few threads of the flat fabric just
above the folded edge.
4. Make the same stitch through the folded

fabric.
5. Work your way along the hem, making the stitches as invisible as possible on the right
side.
Herringbone Stitch:
This stitch neatens a single hem and catches it to the fabric at the same time. It is used on
heavyweight fabrics that are too thick for a double hem.
1. Work from left to right.

2. Secure the thread with a few backstitches
in the hem.
3. Make a long diagonal stitch from left to

right across the raw edge and back
through the flat fabric, about 0.25" (6 mm)
from the hem edge.
4. With the needle pointing to the left, make a small stitch in the fabric from right to left.
5. Bring the needle out and make another long diagonal stitch from left to right so that the
threads cross taking the needle into the hem from right to left.
6. The stitches should be evenly spaced and the same size.

Ladder Stitch:
Ladder stitch, or slip tacking, is a way to join 2 heavily patterned fabrics so that the designs match
exactly across the seam line.
1. Press under the seam allowance down 1

fabric length and place it over the seam
allowance of the second piece, exactly
matching the pattern. Pin in place.
2. Work from the right side of the fabric and

from right to left.
3. Work with a single thread, secured with a knot inside the seam allowance.
4. Take the needle 0.25" (6mm) along the back of the folded edge, then pull the needle
through and make a small stitch to join the folded edge to the flat fabric.
5. Continue in this way, forming small straight ladder stitches over the join.
6. Secure with a knot inside the seam allowance.
Lock Stitch:
This stitch is used to hold lining and interlining to the back of the fabric on curtains, bedspreads and
pelmets where there is a certain amount of "give" in the fabric. Usually used every half width on very
wide curtains.
1. Lay the face fabric, wrong side up on a flat surface.
2. Position the lining, right side up, on top of

the face fabric.
3. Pin the 2 fabrics together down the

centre.
4. Working with a thread that matches the

face fabric, fold the lining back over the
pins and secure the thread with a knot in
the lining.
5. Make a small stitch, picking up 1 or 2 of the fabric threads, and pull out with the thread
under the needle.
6. Take the needle 2" (5 cms) to the right for the next stitch, thus forming a looped stitch. Do
not pull the thread too tight.

Oversewing Stitch:
Oversewing, or overcasting, is a way to neaten a raw edge to prevent heavyweight fabrics from
fraying. Relate the length of the stitch to the fabric
and how badly it will fray.
1. Begin with a few backstitches.
2. Make diagonal stitches over the raw

edge, spacing them equally and make
them all the same length. Be careful not
to pull the stitches too tight.
Running Stitch:
This stitch is used for seams and for gathering.
1. Fasten the thread with a few backstitches

and work small stitches by passing the
needle in and out of the fabric. Keep the
stitches and spaces as even as possible.
Slipstitch:
This stitch is used for holding a folded edge, such as a double hem, to a flat piece of fabric.
1. Work from right to left with a single thread

fastened with a knot hidden inside the
hem.
2. Bring the needle out through the folded

edge, pick up a few threads of the flat
fabric and then work through the fold again.
3. Slide the needle along, come out of the fold to make the next stitch.

Stabstitch:
These tiny, almost invisible stitches are used to hold folds in place.
1. Using single thread, secure the end with a knot hidden in

a fold.
2. Take the needle through to the back of the fabric to

secure a few threads of fabric. Slide it between the layers
of fabric to come out at random intervals.
Tacking Stitch: (Basting)

This is used to hold the fabric in position while it is being permanently stitched. Similar to running
stitch but with longer stitches.
1. Work with single or double thread, knotted at the end, and make evenly spaced stitches by
taking the needle in and out of the fabric.
2. End a line of tacking with 1 backstitch or

a knot.
3. To release the tacking stitches, cut off the

knot and pull out the thread.

Index:
relaxed tie up ................................................ 103
A rolled tie up................................................... 105
roller................................................................ 48
Acorns ...................................................................6 roman .............................................................. 58
Adding Frills..............................................122, 140 scalloped roller ............................................... 52
Appliqué ............................................................108 shaped roller ................................................... 55
persé...............................................................108 staggered roman.............................................. 96
reverse ...........................................................109 tailored fantail................................................. 31
Appliqué Persé ..................................................108 tie up ............................................................. 102
Appliqué Reverse ..............................................109 turret bottom roman ........................................ 85
Austrian Blinds......................................................9 waterfall roman............................................... 98
Author of this Book ...............................................2 Bottom Up Roman Blinds .................................. 59
Bound Edge Roman Blinds ................................ 64
B Bound Frills ...................................................... 123
Box Pleated Frills ............................................. 126
Backstitch ..........................................................141
Butterfly Roman Blinds...................................... 68
Balloon Blinds .....................................................15
Buttonhole Stitch .............................................. 142
Basting...............................................................146
Binding ..............................................................111
C
binding an edge..............................................113
continuous bias strip ......................................112 Cascade Blinds ................................................... 19
cutting bias strips...........................................111 Catchstitch ........................................................ 142
mitring corners...............................................113 Chain Stitch ...................................................... 142
Binding an Edge ................................................113 Cleat...................................................................... 6
Blanket Stitch ....................................................141 Continuous Bias Strip ....................................... 112
Blinds.....................................................................9 Cord Tidy Bag .................................................. 118
austrian ..............................................................9 Corsican Blinds................................................... 22
balloon .............................................................15 Covering Buttons.............................................. 120
bottom up roman..............................................59 Curtain Weights................................................ 107
bound edge roman ...........................................64 Curved Hems .................................................... 121
butterfly roman ................................................68 Cutting Bias Strips............................................ 111
cascade.............................................................19
corsican............................................................22 D
eyelet ...............................................................26
fantail...............................................................29 Double Edged Gathered Frills .......................... 124
fantail roman....................................................72 Double Sided Gathered Frills ........................... 125
festoon .............................................................34
hobbled roman .................................................76 E
hook up ............................................................38
london..............................................................41 Eyelet Blinds....................................................... 26
plain roller .......................................................49
plain roman......................................................81 F
pointed roman..................................................90
Fantail Blinds...................................................... 29
reefed ...............................................................45
relaxed ............................................................ 29
relaxed fantail ..................................................29
roman .............................................................. 72
relaxed roman ..................................................94
tailored ............................................................ 31

Fantail Roman Blinds ..........................................72 M

Festoon Blinds .....................................................34
Fitting Roller Blinds ............................................48 Matching Patterned Fabric................................ 132
Fixtures & Fittings.................................................5 Measuring Up for Blinds ...................................... 7
Flat Fell Seam....................................................138 Mitring a Border ............................................... 134
Flat Seam...........................................................138 Mitring a Hem .................................................. 136
French Seam ......................................................139 Mitring Bias Binding ........................................ 113
Frills...................................................................122
bound .............................................................123 N
box pleated ....................................................126
double edged gathered...................................124 Neatening a Raw Edge ..................................... 111
double sided gathered ....................................125
fabric requirements........................................122 O
knife pleated ..................................................127
Oversewing....................................................... 145
pleated ...........................................................126
single gathered...............................................129
P
G Piping........................................................ 111, 115
continuous bias strip ..................................... 112
Gathered Piping .................................................117
cutting bias strips .......................................... 111
Gathering ...........................................................140
gathered ........................................................ 117
into seam/hem............................................... 116
H
joining ends................................................... 116
Hemming Stitch.................................................143 Plain Roller Blinds.............................................. 49
Herringbone Stitch.............................................143 Plain Roman Blinds ............................................ 81
Hobbled Roman Blinds .......................................76 Pleated Frills ..................................................... 126
Hook Up Blinds...................................................38 Pointed Roman Blinds ........................................ 90
I Q
Inserting a Zip ...................................................131 Quilting............................................................. 137
J R
Joining Ends of Piping.......................................116 Reefed Blinds ..................................................... 45

Relaxed Fantail Blinds........................................ 29
K Relaxed Roman Blinds ....................................... 94
Relaxed Tie Up Blinds ..................................... 103
Knife Pleated Frills............................................127 Rolled Tie Up Blinds........................................ 105
Roller Blinds....................................................... 48
L fitting the roller ............................................... 48
measuring and estimating fabric..................... 49
Ladder Stitch .....................................................144 plain ................................................................ 49
Lock Stitch ........................................................144 scalloped ......................................................... 52
London Blinds .....................................................41 shaped ............................................................. 55
London Shades ....................................................41 Roman Blinds ..................................................... 58
bottom up........................................................ 59
bound edge...................................................... 64

butterfly ...........................................................68 Stabstitch .......................................................... 146

fantail...............................................................72 Staggered Roman Blinds .................................... 96
hobbled ............................................................76 Stitches ............................................................. 141
measuring and estimating fabric......................58 backstitch ...................................................... 141
plain .................................................................81 basting........................................................... 146
pointed .............................................................90 blanket stitch................................................. 141
relaxed .............................................................94 buttonhole stitch ........................................... 142
staggered..........................................................96 catchstitch ..................................................... 142
turret bottom ....................................................85 chain stitch.................................................... 142
waterfall...........................................................98 gathering ....................................................... 140
Roman Shades .....................................................58 hemming stitch ............................................. 143
Running Stitch ...................................................145 herringbone stitch ......................................... 143
ladder stitch................................................... 144
S lock stitch...................................................... 144
overcasting.................................................... 145
Scalloped Roller Blinds.......................................52 oversewing.................................................... 145
Seams.................................................................138 running stitch ................................................ 145
flat..................................................................138 slip tacking.................................................... 144
flat fell ...........................................................138 slipstitch........................................................ 145
french.............................................................139 stabstitch ....................................................... 146
Sewing Techniques............................................107 tacking stitch................................................. 146
adding curtain weights...................................107
appliqué .........................................................108 T
binding and piping.........................................111
cord tidy bag ..................................................118 Tacking Stitch................................................... 146
covering buttons ............................................120 Tailored Fantail Blinds ....................................... 31
curved hems...................................................121 Tie Up Blinds.................................................... 102
frills ...............................................................122 relaxed .......................................................... 103
inserting a zip ................................................131 rolled............................................................. 105
matching patterned fabrics ............................132 Turret Bottom Roman Blinds ............................. 85
mitring a border .............................................134
mitring a hem.................................................136 W
piping.............................................................115
quilting...........................................................137 Waterfall Roman Blinds ..................................... 98
seams .............................................................138 Wooden Battens (fixing)....................................... 5
stitches ...........................................................141
Shaped Roller Blinds...........................................55 Z
Single Gathered Frills........................................129
Zips ................................................................... 131
Slipstitch............................................................145

Available Book Titles:

Just Bedding and Bed Drapes E-Book:
48 projects.
186 pages.
267 coloured diagrams/illustrations/photographs.
Just Blinds E-Book:
27 projects.
150 pages
Just Curtains and Tie Backs E-Book:
65 projects.
269 pages
Just Cushions E-Book:
31 projects.
134 pages
Just Top Treatments E-Book:
80 projects.
352 pages
Finishing Touches E-Book:
70 projects for every room in the home.
226 pages.

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Just Blinds E-Book: Page 1

Copyright Alternative Windows 2004

About the Author:

Copyright © 2004 Alternative Windows

Copyright Alternative Windows 2004

About this E-Book:

Copyright Alternative Windows 2004

Butterfly Roman Blind: ______________________ 68

Copyright Alternative Windows 2004

Fixtures and Fittings:

The blind is attached to the front edge of the

They have cord guides incorporated and can

Fixing Wooden Battens:

Side view of a wooden batten which is attached to the

This position for the wooden batten is used when a blind

Note that the wooden batten should be deep enough to

Side view of a wooden batten attached to the

This position for the wooden batten is used when a

Note that the wooden batten should be positioned to

Copyright Alternative Windows 2004

This position for the wooden batten is used when a blind

This method is often used when dealing with U.P.V.C. or

Note that the wooden batten should be deep enough to

A cleat is positioned at one side of the window frame

Copyright Alternative Windows 2004

Measuring Up for Blinds:

A. Width of the valance track or pelmet

B. Blind length (drop) outside the window

C. Blind length (drop) inside the window

D. Length (drop) of the valance or pelmet.

E. Blind width inside the window recess.

F. Blind width outside the window recess.

Measuring Blind Widths Outside the Window

Copyright Alternative Windows 2004

Measuring Blind Widths Inside the Window

Measuring Blind Length Outside the Window

Measuring Blind Length Inside the Window

Copyright Alternative Windows 2004

They can be used inside or outside the window recess.

They are more economical on fabric than curtains.

There are 3 basic styles of blind:

Roman styles include Bottom Up, Fantail and Hobbled blinds.

Austrian Blinds are in reality a curtain, and are made up as such

Copyright Alternative Windows 2004

The dimensions can be adjusted for other sizes of blinds.

Colour Codes For Diagrams:

The colour displayed to the left indicates the lining.

Lightweight curtain fabric.

4 screw eyelets, if a wooden batten is used.

Curtain hooks, if an Austrian blind track is used.

Grip tape, the length of the wooden batten, if used.

Wall cleat and an acorn.

Copyright Alternative Windows 2004

Measuring and Estimating Fabric Quantities:

Making an Austrian Blind:

Copyright Alternative Windows 2004

8. Turn right side out and press lightly.

9. Lay the blind, lining side up, onto a flat surface.

Copyright Alternative Windows 2004

14. Knot the cords, to the wrong side, at one end of

15. Insert a cord tidy bag, approximately 2" (5 cms) in

Hanging an Austrian Blind:

1. Decide from which side of the window you wish to