Recent

Developments
in Knitting
Machinery
PRIYANSHI
AGRAWAL
One machine for all fabric types-
Traditionally all sewing machines are classified into three categories: light-duty, medium-

duty and heavy-duty and sometime ‘extra heavy’.

The categorization is based on GSM of fabric; lighter the GSM of fabric, light duty machine

to be used and so on.

However, most factories making fashion garments (unlike a shirt or trouser specialized

factory) used to buy medium-duty to remain flexible in use of fabrics, so that they can use

either light or heavy material in same machine without major quality and operational hurdle.

We already have machines with adjustments to use with various fabric types, thereby

Kansai Special RX-9803 Series Cylinder Bed

offering enormous flexibility to users like the

Flat Lock Machine for Bottom Hemming and Vetron from Xi’an Typical.

Flexibility in conventional sewing machine use is also seen widening their use into the

decoration field. Be it sequential and programmable sequin sewn designs, different effects

achieved by multi-needle chainstitch machines, multi-colour and multi-stitch type overlock

and flat lock machines, three-hole or six-hole button sewing and many more.
Self-Healing Sewing machine-
Machine downtime is one of the most notorious reasons behind lower efficiency.

Nowadays machines are made with less number of movable parts, more of modular

platform, interchangeable parts, and replaceable components aiming to make the machine

in running condition in quickest possible time during a breakdown.

Common platform sewing machine development ( M-Type from Duerkopp Adler and
Vetron from Typical) will enable use of exchangeable common parts between different
machine types and thereby breaking the age-old tradition of specialised machine engineers

for special machines. (Traditionally for lockstitch and overlocks mechanics at basic level is

enough, however for buttonhole/buttonsew/bartack/special machine there are different

mechanics).

Fewer moving parts also reduced failure rate, ease of repair and lesser downtime like AMF-
Reece eyelet buttonhole machine. Touch screen based easy diagnostic module are
common for highly automated workstation. Very soon we will see self-healing sewing

machine which will repair itself after breakdown!

Seam Welding machine-
Although ultrasound seam welding technology is there for quite some time, it was restricted to

non-apparel and/or performance outerwear.

A precondition of welding fabric parts together is the presence of a thermoplastic material,

either within the fabric itself, as with synthetic materials, or by the use of a bonding tape

between the two fabric layers, feed into the seam as it is sealed together, as required by natural

fibres.

However with improvement in technology and wider acceptance of fabric type more and more

product categories are being made using ultrasound welding technology.

This method of construction has many advantages for certain types of garments and PFAFF has
the most popular series of welding machines. It is water and chemical proof as the main fabric,

bacteria and pathogen resistant and therefore is of great interest for military, medical, outdoor,

sports and undergarments and technical uses.

The ultrasonic process channels high frequency vibrations which cause a rapid heat build-up at

the material contact point. The process is very versatile as a machine can be programmed to

seam, cut, slit, trim, tack, emboss, or cut and seal simultaneously.

Coming years will see more and more garments and other sewn products being manufactured by

welding as opposed to sewing.

Bobbin Changing
Automatic bobbin changers (ABC) were developed way back in 1990’s. All the effort to

popularize ABCs was unsuccessful because of high cost and exclusivity attached to it.

Except multi head computerized embroidery machine other use of ABCs were

discontinued gradually.

However, recently there is a renewed interest about ABCs in pattern sewing, moving head

sewing and automated workstations, Juki’s AVP-875A for automatic pocket setter for
jeans is equipped with an auto-bobbin changer.

Probably the proven success of data transfer across sewing machine and use of stand-up

module with higher machine to operator ratio has necessitated the justification of ABC to

maximize needle running time.

As a supplement to Lean philosophy or probably being promoted by Lean protagonist as

removal of non-values adding activity ABC is expected to come back with a bang.
Moving Head Sewing to Replace Moving
Hand of Operator
Jig sewing technique is common for profile sewing of components over the decades. However

over the years, manual jig sewing technique is giving way to computerized pattern tacking

machines.

Use of pattern tacking machine for small area profile sewing (e.g. Velcro attach, cross tack,

etc.) or moving head sewing machines for large area profile sewing (patch pocket attach, car

airbag sewing, etc.) are becoming common for consistent quality and improved production over

time.

These are gaining momentum as an alternative to deskilling of the operations, which otherwise

require skilled operators.

The SPS/HT- 10050A Series from SunStar and the Programmable rotating head sewing
machines from Rodella Automatic Machines, are some of the most popular ones.

Manoeuvring of fabric component to be sewn requires skill component; with sewing operators

becoming scarce commodity if machine takes over the skill component in future who complains!
Latest Sewing
Automations
By Robotech
Robotech A.G. is an Istanbul based company and a leading
developer and manufacturer of sewing automation for the
apparel industry which started its journey back in 1997
D-FA 320-P Feed of the
Arm Automat

It is for denim and sports trousers is a brand new automat, which is

specially designed and programmed to work better on the back rise

section of the denim trousers with extra-stretch fabrics. This model

minimizes the risk of waving (Puckering) effect between the needles on

such extra stretch fabrics. The machine also allows perfect stitching

without loose stitches on the cross joints on thick fabrics since the

machine is equipped with a special foot and a height sensor which allows

the special programming of the machine to temporarily increase the

pressure on the foot when the rise over the cross joint is sensed.
LB6000 – Care Label Book Making Automat
with Ultrasonic Cutting System

It is another new fully automated station for gathering and sewing of the care labels from rolls. The cutting mechanism on this

automat is with the new ultrasonic cutting system. The ultrasonic cutting system melts the fibres within the fabric by mechanical

action only (hammering), enabling a very clean and flexible cutting without any burning or colour change. The automat is also

capable of folding the (selected) labels and then stitches all labels together on a Brother bartacking head. The station can be

ordered with 4, 6 and even 8 heads of Rolls and folding device/s can be inserted on any head at production. Another

advantage is that it can operate with all kinds of care label fabrics (paper, satin, nylon or any mixture of these). The greatest

advantage is that in brings an operation of 6-8 labour operation down to less than 1 operator because the system requires

manual intervention only to change the thread bobbing and the rolls of care-labels when finished.
D-BF-410 Felt Feeding
under Bartack Automat

It is another new machine developed based on the needs of the customers. Because

recently the stitches on the back-pocket corners and at the edges of the belt loops

damages the extra stretch (high elastan contented) fabrics during washing. In response

the manufacturers began using small cut felt or same fabric pieces placed under the

bartack stitches. However, this operation led to extra manpower and time causing extra

cost as well as inconsistencies. Automation means minimum human intervention and

fewer errors which result in better quality and higher productivity. These factors also

lead to less rejected garments and therefore saving cost and time simultaneously.

Second, less number of people performing an operation also leads to saving in labour

costs involved. Thirdly, automats require very little training because they are very easy to

operate thanks to the graphic based colour touch-screen panels we use on almost all

our automats. The high complexity tasks are normally preferred to be carried by skilled

operators that means higher cost associated with the higher skilled. Most automated

machinery can be operated by less skilled workers which help cut costs.
THANK YOU