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Special Issue: ITMA, 2019

Automated Cutting and Sewing for Industry 4.0 at ITMA 2019

Minyoung Suh
Wilson College of Textiles, NC State University
Raleigh, NC, USA

Introduction an apparel product is manufactured. Raw


An apparel product is one of the material takes 50-70% of the total product
consumer goods that have a large number of cost (Vilumsone-Nemes, 2018b), but a
fragmented supply chains. It starts from fiber compromise in quality and quantity of fabrics
selection, proceeds to yarn and fabric is not under consideration since it directly
production, and ends up with apparel influences the quality of a final product.
manufacturing. In many cases, there are Instead, the viable solution to reduce the
several additional industries involved in the fabric cost is to realize the most efficient
processes to finish the final product that marker through accurate and precise cutting.
produce trimming, finding, embroidery, On the other hand, sewing is known to take
leather and many other fashion accessories. 35-40% of the total cost (Gries & Lutz,
Apparel manufacturing is labor- 2018). Sewn product manufacturers have
intensive and has been accomplished by lowered the labor cost down through global
highly-skilled manual operations using supply chain management over the past
traditional materials and equipment. The decades by locating their production facilities
major operations are categorized into three in developing countries. However, this
groups; pre-production, production and post- business strategy became difficult to
production (Nayak & Padhye, 2018). Pre- maintain due to recent changes in global
production processes focus on the labor market. There are urgent needs to find
preparation of necessary materials and alternative solutions to overcome this. Hence,
services, and include line planning, sample to provide a high-quality product at an
development and approvals, sourcing, and affordable price, it is necessary that the
production scheduling. During the cutting and sewing processes are automated
production, fabrics are spread, cut, bundled, by the advanced machinery.
and sewn. Several post-production tasks are Automation improves productivity as
followed to get sewn products ready for well as the quality of fashion products by
consumers such as pressing, inspection, minimizing human intervention and
folding, packaging, etc. Apparel production preventing potential human mistakes during
still relies on manual practices much as it was manufacturing. Automated systems can be
a few hundred years ago (Burns, Mullet, & achieved by embedding a new system or
Bryant, 2011). technique between or within the existing
Cutting and sewing are unique iconic electronic devices (Nayak & Padhye, 2018).
tasks in apparel manufacturing, which are The examples of the new system or technique
highly labor dependent and therefore include mechanized fabric handling,
expensive. According to Burns, Mullet, and computerized techniques, automatic sewing
Bryant (2011), fabric purchase and cut-and- machine and robots. They assist smooth
sew labor are the two largest expenses when automatic transitions of workpieces between

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ITMA, 2019
processes or during a process. Several stages by a control unit. In modern cutting devices,
of apparel manufacturing can benefit from cutting tables are equipped with a vacuum
the application of automated systems. system to hold the material down and
Focusing on the technological enhance cutting accuracy during the cutting
innovations presented in the recent textile process. Porous materials, such as most of
machinery tradeshow ITMA 2019, this textiles, have to be cut with an impermeable
article demonstrates the advanced state of plastic cover because of this. According to
automation in apparel manufacturing. There Vilumsone-Nemes (2018a), suction blowers
were six sub-sections established under the are the component that consumes the most
garment making system. Those were product power in cutter operations.
development equipment; shrinking, fusing, Various cutting technologies are
and cutting; sewing; sewing supplies and available for a cutting device, such as
consumable; product finishing. Cutting and computer-controlled knife, laser, water jet,
sewing are the major areas of observations, plasma, or ultrasound. Knife cutters are
and multiple examples of automated suitable for multi-ply cutting of heavy textile
equipment are reported to highlight key materials and have been most widely adopted
features of technical innovations in cutting by textile product manufacturers
and sewing automation. (Vilumsone-Nemes, 2018a). The knife
cutting head is equipped with multiple
Automation in cutting cutting tools: knives, notch tools, drill
With an increasing demand of mass punches, and markers to meet diverse cutting
production, the cutting room in an apparel and marking demands. Laser cutters are the
manufacturing facility has been constantly second most methods in textile cutting and
automated by several inventions of new frequently adopted for single-ply cutting. It
machinery. Spreading machine carried a roll can create anti-fray edges on thermoplastic
of fabric over the table and drastically materials which are most of synthetic fibers
reduced the human workforce. Introduced in including polyester and nylon. Diverse
the early 1900s, die cutters increased cutting treatment effects are attainable, such as
efficiency and quality dramatically as well. cutting, kiss cutting, and marking, through
With the appearance of numerically controlled laser intensity. The choice of
controlled (NC) machine in 1940s and 1950s, cutting method depends on the properties of
continuous cutting became possible. This led materials as well as the complexity of
to a greater flexibility in production as well required contours to be cut.
as more economic use of material. Later on, The most important consideration in
digital technology created computer the configuration of automated cutting
numerically controlled (CNC) machine and system is whether a single ply or multiple
other supporting tools such as CAD/CAM plies of fabrics would be cut. Single-ply
programs. This steady and persistent effort cutting enables continuous processes and
made the cutting room evolved into the most eliminates the presence of spreader since the
advanced department in the apparel fabric can be fed to the cutting area directly
manufacturing industry (Vilumsone-Nemes, from a roll. A conveyorized cutting table is
2018b). used for increased productivity, where the
Most systems in automated cutting cutting continues with the advance of the
have a similar configuration, where a cutting cutting surface. With the moving surface, an
device is housed in a carriage that is attached extra-large component exceeding the length
to a crossbar over the cutting table. The of cutting table is possible to be cut in this
carriage moves along the crossbar across the configuration.
width of the cutting table, while the crossbar When multiple stacks of a fabric are
moves along the length of the table. These spread to cut, stronger cutting power is
movements let the cutting device travel over required, of course, than single-ply cutting.
the cutting area, and are managed precisely An oscillating knife maximizes the cutting

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capability by moving up and down as the the existing cutting technology. The major
knife advances. The depth of oscillating fields of new developments observed at
stroke ranges from 5mm to 200mm ITMA 2019 could be summarized into three
(Vilumsone-Nemes, 2018a) and needs to be aspects; productivity, versatility, and pattern
engineered according to the cutting matching capability.
conditions. Serkin Tekstil introduced the To enhance productivity, some
intelligent knife which oscillates not only up automated cutters are equipped with an
and down, but also from side to side. This additional cutting device and crossbar, which
additional motion of the knife is helpful to cut performs synchronized and simultaneous
pieces accurately across the thick stacks of cutting. According to Kuris
multiple textile layers. Due to the oscillating Spezialmaschinen GmbH (2010), dual
motions of the knife, the surface of cutting cutting heads can save up to 40% of cutting
tables must be loose enough to support the time. Another example of increased
movement. In case of multi-ply cutting with efficiency is the implementation of an
an oscillating knife, the surface of a cutting automatic labeler, and this system was
table is made of bristles, which is typically a presented by Morgan Technica and Serkon
static flatbed table. This static cutting Tekstil at ITMA 2019. Labelers are
configuration ensures higher cutting incorporated into cutters to ease human
accuracy than conveyorized surfaces. mistakes and confusions during unloading
Since Gerber Technology introduced processes followed after cutting. The
the first fully automated cutting system in stickers, of different dimensions according to
1960s, automated cutting market has been the needs, are thermally printed and placed in
matured and become much competitive over the middle of each cut piece (Figure 1). This
the several past decades. The main areas of makes the necessary information including
current innovation are related to elaborated bar codes immediately visible on the cut
sub-functions or supplementary assistance to pieces.

(a) (b

Figure 1. Automatic labelers by Morgan Technica (a) and Serkon Tekstil (b)

Aiming at the versatile use of a single the carrier in a few quick easy steps for
cutter, Zund adopted modular tooling (Figure specific cutting operations. The available
2a) in their automated cutters, with which the options are extremely wide including electric
configurations of cutting device can be or pneumatic oscillating tools, rotary or knife
changed interactively by the user. Various blades, laser modules, perforating or creasing
cutting devices are selected and mounted on tools, and marking or plotting modules.

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Eurolaser presented an automated textile could stabilize the fabric and create smooth
cutting system specialized for wool fabrics lint-free cut edges. This cutter also
based on laser technology (Figure 2b). incorporated dual cutting devices of laser and
Called “Cut’n Protect Technology”, their a blade for versatile applications to textiles.
cutter was equipped with a steamer which

(a (b

Figure 2. Modular tooling by Zund (a) and laser wool cutting by Eurolaser (b)

Traditionally, pattern matching was outcomes. Often called “visual nest”, the
attained by preparing sectioned markers and latter technology helps the operator view and
having two separate cutting steps, rough edit markers in a real time, checking a marker
cutting and fine cutting (Vilumsone-Nemes, image projected on the fabric surface before
2018a). Although these processes were time- cutting (Figure 3b). The operator can relocate
and labor-consuming, pattern matching or reorient pieces to match intricate fabric
accuracy was still elusive, and unnecessary patterns or manipulate with engineered
material wastes were generated between patterns. Since the operator still performs a
rough and fine cutting. Several companies, significant role during the processes, these
such as Zund, Morgan Technica, Kuris, and systems are considered as semi-automated.
Gemini, have invested efforts to develop The key technology of Kuris
pattern matching hardware and software and highlighted at ITMA 2019 was the integrated
demonstrated the improved pattern matching camera system that records and recognizes
capability in ITMA 2019. the material to be cut. Photographed images
In an automated system, pattern of fabric surface are processed to calculate
matching can be achieved either by cutting coordinates. This technology enables
generating an on-screen image of the fabric a single-ply cutter to perform even without
patterns over the marker table or projecting markers in cases of garment patterns printed
images of markers on the fabric. In the former by a sublimation method (Figure 3c). Based
method, fabric prints are scanned by an on the imaging technology, their leather-
optical device on the cutting head and cutter can also detect the arbitrary contours of
imported to the marker making software. a leather piece, determine different qualities
Garment patterns are placed and a marker is of surface conditions, and auto-nest markers
prepared over the fabric image (Figure 3a). directly on the leather matching the quality
This allows the operator to optimize cutting zone (Figure 3b).
parameters for accurate and precise cutting

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(a) (b)

(c)

Figure 3. Pattern matching system: CAD software by Zund (a), visual nest in leather
cutting by Kuris (b) and sublimation print cutting by Kuris (c)

Automation in sewing took place mostly (79%) manually in textile


Production processes involved in product plants. None of the plants handled
garment assembly are divided into two sub- material automatically, while only 21%
functions; handling of material and joining of companies employed semi-automatic
fabric components. In garment systems. When a piece of clothing is
manufacturing, significant time and labor are manufactured, the handling time is about
spent in material handling, such as lifting, 80% of the overall production time, and
moving, mounting, re-positioning, and re- approximately 80% of the factory cost is
orientating of cut or semi-finished fabric related to the handling cost (Gries & Lutz,
components. Considering quality assurance 2018).
in seam productions, it is critical to handle There are several gripping
those with a precise and gentle treatment in technologies based on either vacuum,
an economic and efficient way (Lutz, Fruh, Bernoulli gripper, needles, or rollers (Lutz,
Gries, & Klingele, 2018). In commercially Fruh, Gries, & Klingele, 2018). In vacuum
available workstations, loading is mostly grippers (Aminpour, 2017), the gripping
manual, while sewing and unloading elements are connected to a pneumatic pump
processes are somewhat automated (Jana, and in contact with the gripping material. The
2018). pressure difference allows the gripping
Compared to bend-resistant materials, material to adhere to the suction pads.
the handling of flexible material is Bernoulli grippers enable contactless
significantly more challenging. Due to the gripping by creating Bernoulli effect with the
softness of the textiles, the material easily direct use of compressed air. In needle
deforms impermissibly even under a very grippers, needles penetrate the materials at an
small pressure, such as dead weight or air angle and are interlocked with the material to
resistance. According to Szimmat, (2007), grip. Roller systems often employ freezing
material handling during product assembly and surface grippers, which create temporary

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adhesion using Peltier elements and Sewing represents the most important
electrostatic effects, respectively. textile joining technology, taking 85% of all
However, these advanced gripping joining methods (Gries & Lutz, 2018). Not
technologies are not yet popularized in much different from the ancient times,
assembly systems of textile products. It was sewing is still dependent on highly-skilled
reported that 72% of current semi-automatic labor for manual operations, and takes 35-
handling system does not employ grippers, 40% of the total cost (Gries & Lutz, 2018).
and the remaining 28% use needles or scrap Over the past a few decades, sewn product
grippers (Szimmat, 2007). The only similar manufacturers lowered the production cost
application found in ITMA 2019 was the down by relocating their production facilities
picking pad (Figure 4) demonstrated from an in developing countries with low wages.
on-going project in a Barcelona-based However, this business strategy is nearing the
company named AB Industries. In their end of its lifetime as the market conditions
system, workpieces are floating about an inch have changed much recently. Labor costs are
over a table surface since the surface is rapidly increasing in many developing
structured with bristles. This allows a 360- countries. There is a global shortage of
degree robotic arm to scoop the workpieces skilled labor, and consumer behavior changes
up easily with a simple gripping element. faster than ever pushed by fast fashion trends.
According to the personnel on duty in ITMA Therefore, garment manufacturing industry is
2019, this technology is currently under urged to strive for sewing automation.
development and not yet matured for The most popular and widely adopted
commercialization. automated sewing configuration observed at
ITMA 2019 was the conventional sewing
machine mounted on the fabric processing
machinery such as a winding or calendaring
unit. Several companies including Texma
and Comatex used these configurations to
finish edges, join fabric rolls, or make a
tubular structure from a fabric roll (Figures
5a and 5b). Monti-mac supplies a series of
mobile sewing machine for this configuration
(Figure 5c). Pneumatic-power supply is
adopted in some sewing units in case that wet
processes are involved simultaneously during
sewing operations. The common stitch types
used for these applications are either chain
(100 or 400 class) or overlock (500 class)
stitches since sewing machine for those stitch
Figure 4. Picking pad by AB Industries types is equipped with continuous supply of
bottom threads that does not require to stop
the machine to load the threads.

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(a) (b (c)

Figure 5. Roll-joining configuration by Texma (a), tube-making configuration by Comatex


(b), and movable sewing device by Monti-mac (c)

Automatic bobbin changing system is bobbin checker uses a unique bobbin coded
an innovative solution for increased with a specific combination of RGB colors
efficiency in sewing. In lock stitch machine (Figure 6a). As the bobbin spins during
(301 stitch type), a fully-loaded bobbin lasts machine operations, a light sensor monitors
for less than 20 minutes in continuous sewing the color sequence and detects usual bobbin
(Jana, 2018) and frequent changes of bobbins movement or errors when the bobbin runs out
have been a notorious bottleneck in sewing. of threads. In the bobbin changing unit shown
The automatic system runs based on two at ITMA 2019 (Figure 6b), a magazine-type
principles; checking the remaining amount of bobbin station sits nearby with 15 filled
bobbin threads and replacing with a filled one bobbin cases ready, and one space out of 16
once the predetermined amount of remaining slots remains empty for changeover to take
thread is reached. place. This leads to minimal production
RSG Automation Technics stops, in which the sewing machine stops
demonstrated a fully-automatic bobbin only for 6-8 seconds each time for bobbin
exchanger in ITMA 2019. Their patented exchange.

(a) (b

Figure 6. Automatic bobbin exchanger by RSG Automation Technics: color-coded bobbin (a)
and magazine-type station (b)

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The principles of automated sewing sewing field is basically limited by the
vary depending on the geometry of sewing physical dimensions of the linear axes in the
paths. 2-dimensional seams can be easily machine. Large machine may handle a
created by computer numerical control sewing area up to 3m by 3m, while small
(CNC) sewing technology, where a single or machine can cover the space less than 10cm
double mobile sewing heads advance over by 10cm (Gries & Lutz, 2018). Large CNC
textiles along the previously programmed sewing machine is for quilting a blanket or a
seam path. For more complicated cases to mattress (Figure 7a). A typical example of
convert 2-dimensional fabrics into 3- small-sized machine is applied when care or
dimensional seams, the sewing head is brand labels are automatically stitched into
guided by a robot in 3-dimensional space clothing (Figure 7b).
along the sewing paths while the fabrics are Current advances in automated sewing
positioned in a 3-dimensional shape. system are limited to certain operations
However, in many of these cases, two fabric during the sewing process. Various semi-
pieces have different contours or curvatures automated sewing automats and units are
along the seam to be joined. This type of commercially available from many suppliers,
seams need to be handled by positioning the such as Juki, Rimac, and Durkopp Adler. At
fabrics 3-dimensionally and applying ITMA 2019, Juki demonstrated a series of
different tension to the fabrics in every stitch. automatic sewing machine to stitch buttons,
In a 2D-sewing configuration, one or buttonholes, and bartacks, while Rimac
more layers of textiles are stitched within showcased automatic binding machine to
fixed sewing frames. The handling of flexible finish round corners of bedding and
material is avoided by clamping the fabric automobile floor mats (Figure 8). The
pieces into the holders. The holder guides the workpiece is rotated at corners through a
sewing head into X- and Y-directions motorized arm to create a constant curvatures
following a programmed seam contours. This with the textile tape automatically inserted
sewing configuration is mostly used for through a feeding unit.
ornamental and design seams. The size of

(a) (b)

Figure 7. Quilting machine by Mammut (a) and label attaching machine by Juki (b)

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Figure 8. Automatic binding machine by Rimac

Durkopp Adler group introduced a they clamp workpieces during the operations.
modular production system at ITMA 2019 by Being a semi-automatic configuration, it still
demonstrating a double welt pocket automat remains to the operator to align and feed the
shown in Figure 9. A welt pocket is produced pieces to the system. For fully-automated
by a two-needle lock stitch head with a center solutions, it is state of the art that sewing
knife cutter and needle feed mechanism machine has its own feeding system which
(Jana, 2018). Sewing frames with a fixed transports and positions the workpiece to a
seam path are hired for template sewing and clamping position.

Figure 9. Semi-automatic modular production system by Durkopp Adler

Not participating in ITMA 2019, system (Figure 10a). A four-axis robotic arm
Softwear Automation Inc. recently can lift and place a piece of fabric using a
introduced a fully-automated sewing system, vacuum gripper (Figure 10b), while a
called “Sewbot”. The major technological conveyor table can feed the fabric into a
innovation is the integration of advanced sewing unit. The table is equipped with the
computer vision systems, which tracks spherical rollers, called “Budger Ball”
individual threads at the needle and (Figure 10c) embedded to the surface.
coordinates the precise movement of the Thanks to these, each fabric piece can go on
fabric (Jana, 2018). Sewbot handles a fabric smoothly in any direction over the table as
by a robotic arm and a 360-degree conveyor needed.

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ITMA, 2019
(a) (b (c)

Figure 10. Fully-automated production system by Softwear Automation Inc. (DevicePlus,


2018): sewing machine arrangement (a), vacuum gripper (b), and “Budger Ball” (c)

A Canada-based company, Automatex, not yet adopted in garment production lines.


demonstrated a full-automated pillowcase Having considered that, the production
production unit at ITMA 2019, where demonstration carried out by an Italian
sequential production tasks of trimming, company, ACG Kinna Automatic, provided
folding, stitching, labelling, and packaging the most futuristic and impressive scenes for
are completed within a single unit. Similar automated production. A fully-automated
systems are present by Magetron, Texpa, and system named “Borsoi” was handling 3-
Schmale for towel production. So far, dimensional products, a pillow, using robots.
commercially available production systems Specifically, it completed picking up a
with full-automated production capability are pillowcase (Figure 11a), securing the
limited to planar textile products, such as opening of a seam (Figure 11b), stuffing the
towel, bedding sheets, and carpets. pillowcase (Figure 11c), transporting the
Sewing heads need to be mounted on pillow (Figure 11d), closing the opening
and controlled by robots for 3D-sewing (Figure 11e), and packing a finished product
operations. Since many processes and steps in a plastic bag (Figure 11f) in a single
of semi-automatic machine have to be continuous production line (Figure 11g). All
incorporated, it is difficult to maintain workpieces are handled and advanced
economical and flexible production. Due to a forward between each task by robotic arms
large scale of investment, robotic systems are with clamps.

(a) (b (c) (d (e)

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ITMA, 2019
(f) (g)

Figure 11. Fully-automated pillow production system by ACG Kinna Automatic

Concurrent completion of more than Industry 4.0 is a strategic initiative


one production task is a key consideration for introduced by the German government in
current development and advances in 2011 (Rojko, 2017). Industry 4.0 is triggered
automated sewing system. For this, sewing by the fact that the previous attempts to lower
machine has to be implemented within the the manufacturing cost are almost exhausted
existing flow of other operations involved in and new strategies are needed. According to
the middle of assembly processes, such as Bauernhansl, Krüger, Reinhart, and Schuh
stuffing feeders or seam pressers, as shown in (2016), Industry 4.0 factory can save the
multiple cases at ITMA 2019. Therefore, the costs by 10-30% in production, 10-30% in
configuration of automated sewing system logistic, and 10-20% in quality management.
relies on a product design and its production Other expected outcomes are a shorter lead
plans. Each production system may have to time, an improved customer responsiveness,
be customized for different apparel products. affordable mass customization, worker-
Efforts in product standardization would be friendly environment, and more efficient use
helpful to lessen this burden, and there are of natural resources and energy (Rojko,
companies like RSG Automation Technics 2017). Especially, Industry 4.0 solutions
who offers a system customization service provide key technologies to produce smart
for textile product plants. textiles, where the largest growth is expected
in textile industry. The global market for
Textile Industry 4.0 smart textiles is forecasted to become three
Textile industry had led the first billion USD by 2026 (Hayward, 2015).
industrial revolution in 1800s, which brought Aiming to innovate the current
the transition from handcraft production industrial production system through
systems to manufacturing systems based on digitalization and exploitation of new
mechanical power generation. The second technologies, the main idea of Industry 4.0 is
industrial revolution was carried by modern smart automation based on interoperability
electrified devices that made industrialization and connectivity. The important element is
and mass production possible. The third the application of generic concepts of Cyber-
revolution was based on advanced Physical Systems (CPS) and Internet of
technologies in digitalization and Things (IoT) to industrial production
automation. Production lines became systems. Production facilities are cyber-
equipped with programmable machines. The physical systems, which are physical
current era is going through the transition equipment integrated with information and
toward the fourth industrial revolution. communication technology (ICT)
components. Autonomous systems are able

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to make their own decisions for self- Terminals positioned at each workstation
organization and self-optimization based on provide the detailed analytics of a production
machine learning algorithms and real-time progress in real time and reduce time to react
data (Kusters, Prab, & Gloy, 2017). to problems. Transparent Electronic Tech
Networked systems integrated into (TPET) also proposes smart factory platform
apparel manufacturing machinery were for home textile manufacturing. Their system
introduced in ITMA 2019. Juke Advanced consists of a series of digital machinery
Network System (JaNets) is software in interconnected with each other to
combination with supporting hardware, manufacture products, monitor facilities,
where sewing machine in a production line is carry out analytics, and transport equipment
interlinked to provide data on production as well as materials (Figure 12b). This
activities. Digital sewing machine (Figure enables predictive maintenance of
12a) is an essential component to gather manufacturing facilities based on big data
detailed sewing data including error codes. acquisition and analysis.

(a) (b

Figure 12. JaNets by Juki (a) and smart factory platform by TPET (b)

Based on the technical advances in Conclusion


digital technology and manufacturing The technological innovations
automation, the concept of on-demand presented in ITMA 2019 were summarized to
garment design and production has been highlight the advanced state of automation in
proposed by many researchers (Aminpour et apparel manufacturing. The most trend in
al., 2017; Suh & Lee, 2012), where an apparel cutting is the use of optical imaging
product is manufactured after the customized technologies, and the cutters are becoming
order is received. The system would consist more productive, versatile, and precise.
of apparel design database and a series of Compared to cutting, the development of
manufacturing machinery for textile printing, sewing automation is still in a primitive
cutting, and assembly. Smart automation is stage, where only a limited sewing capability
essential to reduce the cost and shorten the is feasible in automated configurations. The
lead time. This must be a ground-shaking most consideration in automated sewing is
innovation in textile and apparel business the seamless integration of customized
once the whole system becomes features into the existing production lines.
commercialized and technically stabilized. It
is obvious from ITMA 2019 that textile and
apparel industry is making a steady progress
every day towards the 4th industry revolution
and Industry 4.0.

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