Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Minyoung Suh
Wilson College of Textiles, NC State University
Raleigh, NC, USA
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Figure 1. Automatic labelers by Morgan Technica (a) and Serkon Tekstil (b)
Aiming at the versatile use of a single the carrier in a few quick easy steps for
cutter, Zund adopted modular tooling (Figure specific cutting operations. The available
2a) in their automated cutters, with which the options are extremely wide including electric
configurations of cutting device can be or pneumatic oscillating tools, rotary or knife
changed interactively by the user. Various blades, laser modules, perforating or creasing
cutting devices are selected and mounted on tools, and marking or plotting modules.
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Figure 2. Modular tooling by Zund (a) and laser wool cutting by Eurolaser (b)
Traditionally, pattern matching was outcomes. Often called “visual nest”, the
attained by preparing sectioned markers and latter technology helps the operator view and
having two separate cutting steps, rough edit markers in a real time, checking a marker
cutting and fine cutting (Vilumsone-Nemes, image projected on the fabric surface before
2018a). Although these processes were time- cutting (Figure 3b). The operator can relocate
and labor-consuming, pattern matching or reorient pieces to match intricate fabric
accuracy was still elusive, and unnecessary patterns or manipulate with engineered
material wastes were generated between patterns. Since the operator still performs a
rough and fine cutting. Several companies, significant role during the processes, these
such as Zund, Morgan Technica, Kuris, and systems are considered as semi-automated.
Gemini, have invested efforts to develop The key technology of Kuris
pattern matching hardware and software and highlighted at ITMA 2019 was the integrated
demonstrated the improved pattern matching camera system that records and recognizes
capability in ITMA 2019. the material to be cut. Photographed images
In an automated system, pattern of fabric surface are processed to calculate
matching can be achieved either by cutting coordinates. This technology enables
generating an on-screen image of the fabric a single-ply cutter to perform even without
patterns over the marker table or projecting markers in cases of garment patterns printed
images of markers on the fabric. In the former by a sublimation method (Figure 3c). Based
method, fabric prints are scanned by an on the imaging technology, their leather-
optical device on the cutting head and cutter can also detect the arbitrary contours of
imported to the marker making software. a leather piece, determine different qualities
Garment patterns are placed and a marker is of surface conditions, and auto-nest markers
prepared over the fabric image (Figure 3a). directly on the leather matching the quality
This allows the operator to optimize cutting zone (Figure 3b).
parameters for accurate and precise cutting
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Figure 3. Pattern matching system: CAD software by Zund (a), visual nest in leather
cutting by Kuris (b) and sublimation print cutting by Kuris (c)
Automatic bobbin changing system is bobbin checker uses a unique bobbin coded
an innovative solution for increased with a specific combination of RGB colors
efficiency in sewing. In lock stitch machine (Figure 6a). As the bobbin spins during
(301 stitch type), a fully-loaded bobbin lasts machine operations, a light sensor monitors
for less than 20 minutes in continuous sewing the color sequence and detects usual bobbin
(Jana, 2018) and frequent changes of bobbins movement or errors when the bobbin runs out
have been a notorious bottleneck in sewing. of threads. In the bobbin changing unit shown
The automatic system runs based on two at ITMA 2019 (Figure 6b), a magazine-type
principles; checking the remaining amount of bobbin station sits nearby with 15 filled
bobbin threads and replacing with a filled one bobbin cases ready, and one space out of 16
once the predetermined amount of remaining slots remains empty for changeover to take
thread is reached. place. This leads to minimal production
RSG Automation Technics stops, in which the sewing machine stops
demonstrated a fully-automatic bobbin only for 6-8 seconds each time for bobbin
exchanger in ITMA 2019. Their patented exchange.
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Figure 6. Automatic bobbin exchanger by RSG Automation Technics: color-coded bobbin (a)
and magazine-type station (b)
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Figure 7. Quilting machine by Mammut (a) and label attaching machine by Juki (b)
Durkopp Adler group introduced a they clamp workpieces during the operations.
modular production system at ITMA 2019 by Being a semi-automatic configuration, it still
demonstrating a double welt pocket automat remains to the operator to align and feed the
shown in Figure 9. A welt pocket is produced pieces to the system. For fully-automated
by a two-needle lock stitch head with a center solutions, it is state of the art that sewing
knife cutter and needle feed mechanism machine has its own feeding system which
(Jana, 2018). Sewing frames with a fixed transports and positions the workpiece to a
seam path are hired for template sewing and clamping position.
Not participating in ITMA 2019, system (Figure 10a). A four-axis robotic arm
Softwear Automation Inc. recently can lift and place a piece of fabric using a
introduced a fully-automated sewing system, vacuum gripper (Figure 10b), while a
called “Sewbot”. The major technological conveyor table can feed the fabric into a
innovation is the integration of advanced sewing unit. The table is equipped with the
computer vision systems, which tracks spherical rollers, called “Budger Ball”
individual threads at the needle and (Figure 10c) embedded to the surface.
coordinates the precise movement of the Thanks to these, each fabric piece can go on
fabric (Jana, 2018). Sewbot handles a fabric smoothly in any direction over the table as
by a robotic arm and a 360-degree conveyor needed.
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Figure 12. JaNets by Juki (a) and smart factory platform by TPET (b)