National Institute of Fashion Technology

Master of Fashion Technology

Waste Reduction:
Utilizing waste cut fabrics for operator training
Research Proposal

Submitted by:
Aarya Chandrakar

Submitted on:
16-12-2019
Research Rationale
The production of clothes, which was considered to be an art in the prehistoric period, has
undergone several technological changes. (Padhye & Nayak, 2015) Between the initial
conception by the fashion designer and the shop rack, a mass produced garment passes several
steps. The patternmaker makes a pattern (on paper or computer) based on the designer’s
sketch; the pattern guides the cutter in cutting fabric. Before the cutting of multiple garments
in production, the marker-maker creates a marker (on paper or computer), which contains all
the pieces of all the sizes to be cut – the marker is a cutting map for production. Perfect fabric
cutting depends on the method of cutting and marker planning. Most often responsibility for
fabric waste creation at the cutting stage is placed on the marker-maker, and the primary
objective is to reduce fabric cost. (Rissanen, 2007)

In today's date, the apparel sector is one of the fast-evolving sectors, requiring a high level of
skilled labour. The rapid growth of the textile industry has also taken place due to the
introduction of new software and technologies. The progress of the sector is not only seen in
manufacturing but can also be seen in the digital world, where E-commerce has taken all over
the internet. Companies no longer need a physical store to sell their products. This intensifies
the competition between brands resulting in high demands, requiring an increase in
manufacturing of goods.

New operators for sewing job need guidance and training from the scratch. In most of the
industries with their own training centre, the basic training given to the trainees include
machine control, paper exercises, and fabric exercises. The waste fabric from cutting section
can be utilized for training the new operators in the training centre. Using the cut waste fabric
for sewing items such as pouches, wallets and more small items, depending upon the type of
fabrics handled in the specific industry. Utilizing the cut fabrics from cutting will reduce the
waste percentage in the garment industry & hence ultimately reduce the cost of the industry.

Literature Review
Three main factors determine the level of fabric utilization in a cutting room: pattern
engineering, marker making, and selection of marker to cover a production schedule. (Coff,
November, 1976)

A basic requirement for achieving high material utilization is to model patterns in a logical
manner that results in a suitable garment construction compatible with the requirements of
style and comfort, as well as the aspects of fabric utilization and assembly of garments.
(Abrahams, April, 1974)

The second element which determines fabric utilization is the way in which patterns are
arranged on the marker. This is a decisive stage where fabric waste can be minimized; the most
progress has been made here in recent years. The most important advance in this area was an
implementation of computer graphics as an aid to a marker designer. In a typical computer-
assisted marker making system, the information on pattern shapes, taken from a digitizer
(converts pattern geometry into computer-acceptable numerical form), is stored in the
computer memory. The computer prevents overlapping of panels, secures predetermined
match of stripes, plaid, etc., stores the information about the markers and relays this
information to a computer driven plotter, or, via magnetic tape or disk to a digitally controlled
cutting device.

Fabric utilization also depends to a large extent on the way the stock of fabrics (possibly in a
few different widths) is scheduled for the products of different styles and sizes. (Coff,
November, 1976)

Cost of the materials are about 30–65% of the total ready-made garments cost. 17.4% of the
fabric waste is obtained due to the unevenness of the cutting arrangement plan. The reason of
the 64.4% of the total fabric waste is spaces between patterns which performed on marker
plan. (M., 2015)

Fabric consumption is the most important factor constituting the garment cost. Productivity
analysis must be concentrated on fabric, which is the most important element making-up the
garment. Model and size of the garment, fabric width and assortment plan determine the fabric
usage for a garment. Any reduction in the amount of the cloth used per garment leads to
increased profit. The minimization of fabric wastage is crucial to the reduction of production
costs. A higher efficiency marker results in better savings. (PAMUK & YILDIZ, September, 2006)

There are many operative training manuals and guidelines currently in use such as:
1. Manual sewing training and engineering program for NIFT
Published:2-9 September 2003 by Clothing Industry Training Authority Manual consists of
operators training for T-Shirt sewing operators (written and visual representation).
A brief about the pre-training, training and post-training methods are explained, keeping in
mind the Industrial engineers and operators. Techniques like work study and method study
as primary IE activities are explained. For the operatives, basic knowledge about machine
components, along with daily maintenance methods are mentioned. Practice patterns for
the operatives are included in the manual, helping them understand techniques for sewing
a T-shirt. Pattern making basics with an introduction to pattern making tools are also
mentioned.
2. Training module of garment in-line checker and sewing machine operator.
Published: May 2015 by NIFT Mumbai (Anirban Sikdar and Rasika Iyer)
Training manual consists of operators training, where objectives of the manual were to
develop it according NSDC, create an audio video training module, implementation of the
training module in online training portal. Manual briefly explains the importance of training
not only for sewing machine operatives but also in line garment checker.
3. Sewing factory operators training handbook
Published by: The Association for Overseas Technical Scholarship (AOTS), Sewing Research
Institute JUKI Corporation.
 Handbook is a help guide of training supervisors, giving a brief understanding of apparel
process flow and activities involved in the factory, it also mentions tips in making
operations and operation flow easier. Basic practice patterns and motion required in the
activity are explained with the help of a flowchart, which helps evaluate the operative
performing the task. Basic information of sewing machine types, fabric difference, thread
type, and other components are also mentioned.
4. Information for sewing machine operator trainees
Published by: Gene Levine Associates.
Manual consists of the daily work process involved in an operator’s work life, mentioning
the start and end operations of the operative after attending the workplace. Briefly explains
the basic tools, stitch type, correct winding process, correct threading process, and
operations involved in achieving a quality product. Manual also involves an explanation of a
machine component and its function making the operative and trainee familiar with the
component and problems related to the same.

Operator training for sewing in an apparel manufacturing industry basically includes three
major modules: machine control, paper exercise, fabric exercise.
1. Machine Control (3 Days): The objective of this exercise is to build control of the new
operator (not knowing anything about sewing) over the sewing machine.
The trainee is first informed about the sewing machine parts, followed by a demonstration
on positioning of arms, legs, knees, eyes etc. by a trained & experienced instructor. After
the positioning training, the instructor instructs about maintaining pressure on the foot
pedal. After the demonstration, each trainee has to follow the instructions. Continuous
evaluation & correction of each trainee is done by the instructor.
2. Paper Exercise (3 Days): After completion of machine control exercise, the trainees become
familiar with the machine. The next exercise includes co-ordination between hand & foot
control. The trainees are given paper with patterns (of different difficulty levels). The
patterns includes straight line, curved lines, different shapes onto which the trainees are
required to sew without thread on the machine. The instructor first demonstrates & then
the trainees follow. The process continues until the trainee learns to perfectly drop needle
on the pattern.
3. Fabric Exercise (3 Days): Fabric exercise includes proper sewing on the fabric with complete
threading on machine. The trainees are required to thread the machine by themselves &
start sewing on fabric. The instructor instructs about the exercises with gradual increase in
the difficulty level. Fabric exercise enhances the trainee’s ability to co-ordinate hand, feet,
eyes & handling of fabric.
The overall training process completes after the trainees are given actual job at the production
floor for 1 week after the basic training.

For industries with their own training centre, the waste fabric from cutting department is used
for fabric exercise during the basic sewing operator training process.
Research Gap & Questions
In the era where sustainability is an important subject to be focused on, it is important to
address the reduction of waste in the apparel industry. The waste percentage from the cutting
department is major & it is found that the cutting waste fabrics are used in the training process
of sewing trainees.

Each exercise during the training process is designed in a manner that the trainee has
continuous evaluation by the instructor & gets promoted to the next difficulty level only after
clearing the prior training exercises. In this manner, all the trainees for sewing operation gets
trained with sewing skills. But, it is found that most of the trainees after completion of basic
training come under lower skilled (Grade C) operator when allotted to production work. There
is a scope of skill improvisation during the training process itself.

Hypotheses:

The training process can be designed so that the waste cut fabrics can be utilized & converted
into useful products such as pouches, bags, wallets, bibs, cord keeper, shoulder pad, oven
gloves etc. depending upon the fabrics used in the industry. This exercise will develop following
skills:

 Fabric handling
 Hand, eye & foot co-ordination
 Attaching & top stitch

The trainee will get familiar with the fabric beforehand & hence will be able to handle with skill
when allotted to the production line. The products made will be of medium-good quality,
because the trainee will require passing the test. For maintaining quality, the instructors will do
the operation breakdown of the product to be made & each operator will have to show the
work after every step of the operation.

The products made during the training period can be sold with a motive of promoting
sustainability attached to it. The profit will be gained by the industry; profit in terms of money
& brand value for encouraging sustainability by reducing waste.
Research Design

Step-1: Understanding the fabrics used

in the industry.

Step-2: Finding the types of items that Primary Data

can be prepared using the respective Collection
materials used in the industry.

Step-3: Sorting, finalizing &

implementing the exercise(s).

Step-4: Evaluation & analysis of the

skill level of the operators gone
through new training process.

Analysis

Step-5: Analysis of the reduction in

waste fabrics.
Primary data as well as secondary data has to be collected for the operative
training techniques used in the apparel industry. The data collected is then
analyzed after implementation. The research methodology is subdivided into 3
parts:

a. Secondary Data Collection: The secondary data is collected by the review of literature. The
data includes the data of waste from the apparel industry & how a small reduction in waste
percentage can be profitable to industry with reduced cost.
b. Primary Data Collection: The primary data is collected in three steps. It starts with
collecting the past data from the industry. Once the data is collected for fabric & items that
can be made out of it, the third step is to design & finalize a working exercise for the
trainees.
c. Analysis: After implementation of the exercise, the analysis is done in further two steps. A
comparative analysis for skill improvement & waste reduction is done.

Step-1: Understanding the fabrics used in the industry

The primary research starts with collecting the past data from the industry. The type of styles
made in the industry, the fabrics, marker efficiency for different styles. An excel file will contain
all the required data.

Style Fabric Type Marker efficiency

Step-2: Finding the types of items that can be prepared using the respective
materials used in the industry

Once the data is collected about the fabric types used in the industry, a research for the useful
products that can be made out of those fabrics starts. All the fabrics used in the industry are
studied & a table is made for all possible items that can be made using those fabrics.

Fabric Type Items that can be made

Step-3: Sorting, finalizing & implementing the best exercises

Once, data of all the possible items is collected, these data is analyzed. The analysis requires
certain characteristics that should be fulfilled:
  The exercise should be so designed that the trainee should be able to do the sewing
work.
 The exercise should not either be very easy that there is no skill development or be very
difficult that the trainee fails to do the exercise.
 The exercise should contain attaching work, top stitch work (on a straight line),
handling of multiple plies of fabric.
 The product made should be saleable & have good quality.
 There should be operation breakdown of the exercise.

Step-4: Evaluation & analysis of the skill level of the operators gone through new
training process

An observation process goes on for a month where the trainees completing the new training
process are observed for a week after allotted to production. Following are the check points:

 Speed of the operator in terms of pieces made per hour

 Defect rate
 Defect category: critical, major, minor

After collection of the above data, skill level of the operator is analyzed & is compared with
previous data.

Step-5: Analysis of the reduction in waste fabrics

Daily report of total fabric waste is generated using marker efficiency data. The waste cut fabric
is again cut (manually) into patterns for the product to be made. Proper patterns are made for
the item. The data of fabric consumption for the product is maintained. This consumption is
added with the actual consumption of the lay & new consumption is calculated. Hence, the
waste percentage can be calculated.

Fabric Consumption Waste Percentage of Fabric Consumption Waste Percentage

of the Actual Lay the Actual Lay of the new item after production of
new item

Intended Outcome:
 Reduction in fabric waste.
 Increased skill level of newly trained operators.
 Motivated operators by sewing useful item in the training process itself.
 Saleable product without extra cost.
 Profit without extra cost of material.
 Gaining profit in terms of brand value for promoting sustainability by reducing waste.

Works Cited
Abrahams, L. (April, 1974). Computer Pattern Grading Techniques as Compared to Manual Grading.
Hactra. Nottingham, England.

Coff, H. S. (November, 1976). Cut Scheduling For Optimum Fabric Utilization In Apparel Production.

M., K. (2015). Industria Textila. Romania.

Padhye, R., & Nayak, R. (2015). Garment Manufacturing Technology. In R. Nayak, Garment
Manufacturing Technology (pp. 1-17). Woodhead Publication.

PAMUK, O., & YILDIZ, E. Z. (September, 2006). A STUDY ABOUT PARAMETERS AFFECTING THE MARKER
PLAN EFFICIENCY. Izmir, Turkey.

Rissanen, T. (2007). Investigating the creation of fashion without the creation of fabric waste. Broadway,
Australia.