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Chapter 2

Tools and Equipment Used in Garment Making

Efficiency of any work always depends upon the tools and

equipment used for it. A good quality tools must be selected for accuracy and speed
in construction. Proper selection, use and maintenance of tools will improve the quality
and quantity in production.

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENTS

Tools used in garment making can be listed under following
heads.

1. Measuring Tools: - These are the tools used for taking measurements for
garment construction from body or garment and on fabric.
2. Drafting Tools: - These are generally used for drafting and transferring the
paper pattern on to the fabric.
3. Cutting Tools: - These tools are used for cutting patterns and fabric during
pattern making and construction.
4. Sewing Tools: - These are various tools used for the stitching of garments.

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Measuring Tools

a. Measuring Tape: This is a plastic tape

with small metal tips on either end. It is
60” long, and has 1/8 divisions. It has
markings in centimetres and inches.
Tape measure is used to take body
measurements, drafting patterns, and
measuring fabrics.

b. Rulers: There are different types of

rulers made of fiber wood or metal.
Rulers are used for measuring small
distances for tucks, hems, facings etc,
and also for taking measurements in
drafting.

Drafting Tools

a. Pencils and Pen: These are also

used for marking on the fabric
surface. These markings can be
washed out easily. Pen markings
washes out or fade after 48 hours.

b. L – Scale: It is a fibre or wooden scale

having L-Shape. These scales are
used for finding and aligning the grain
of fabric and also for making
perpendicular lines in pattern drafting.

c. French Curve: This is used to shape

the depth of the neck hole and
armhole of the pattern

d. Hip Curve: They are useful for

connecting or shaping curve points
such as armhole, hip etc.

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e. Notcher: It is a punching tool. It is

used to make ‘U’ shaped notch marks
which indicates seam allowance,
central lines etc. It looks like a single
punch machine.

f. Tailor’s Chalk: It is made of wax or

stone chalk. It is used to transfer
seam lines and other pattern details
to fabric. It can be brushed out from
the surface of the fabric.

g. Tracing Wheel: This is a sharp

toothed wheel used to transfer pattern
markings to cloth. This can be also
used to transfer pattern lines to
pattern paper during pattern
development.

h. Stiletto: This is a sharp pointed

instrument for punching holes in
material. It is used for forming eyelets
in belts and for embroidery work.

i. Pins and Pincushions: Pins are

used for basting and fixing of pattern
pieces on to fabric. Pin cushion is a
small stuffed cushion made of wool or
felt, filled with wool or cotton to hold
the pins.

j. Dress Forms: It is a standardized

duplication of a human form. It is
cotton padded, canvas covered and
set on a movable stand. It. is used to
take measurements, develop
patterns and fit garment samples.

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Cutting Tools

k. Scissors: They have 5 to 6 inches long

and identical blade. They are used for
light cutting, trimming, clipping corners,
and cutting curves.

l. Shears: They are 8 to 12 inches long.

They are used for cutting all types of
fabrics. Shears differ from scissors in
that they have one small ring handle
and a large ring handle.

m. Electric Shears: They are ideal for

cutting paper, silk, nylon, and soft,
hard-to-cut fabric. These are light in
weight and easy to operate.

n. Pinking shears: They have a zigzag

shaped blade. They are used to finish
the seam allowances with a zigzag
cutting line or scalloped edge.

o. Thread Cutter / Snipers: These

clippers are specifically used to cut
threads and they are not designed to
cut fabric.
p. Rotary Cutter: It requires more
handling skill than shears. It cuts
patterns and samples faster than
scissors. Rotary cutters are used in
commercial garment industries.

q. Industrial Cutting Machine: These

are large electrical cutters used in
industry for cutting several layers of
fabric simultaneously.

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r. Seam ripper: This is a handy little tool

for taking out seams and removing
stitches. It must be used carefully so as
not to cut the fabric.

s. Cutting Table: It is a table of

convenient height and size for cutting
and construction of garments.

Sewing Tools

t. Sewing Machine: It is the machine

used to stitch fabric and other materials
together with thread. Various types of
sewing machine are used for domestic
as well as industrial purpose.

u. Needle: Needles are found in various

sizes. The best quality needles are
made of steel. For hand sewing
medium length needles with a short
oval eye is selected. Sharp and short
needles are suitable for permanent
stitching. Crewel needles with a long
oval eye are designed for embroidery
work.

v. Needle Threader: It is a device made

of thin wire which aids in threading
machine needles and hand needles.

w. Thimble: Thimble is used to protect the

finger from being pricked by the needle
when sewing. They are made of either
plastic or metal.

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INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES

A sewing machine is a textile machine used to stitch fabric, leather and
other material together with thread. Sewing machines range from most basic type to
the electronic machines that use advanced computer technology.
There are different types of sewing machines available for industrial as
well as for home use. Industrial sewing machines are designed for bulk production and
are larger, faster and more complex. Some common types of sewing machines used
in industry are:

1. Single Needle Lock Stitch Machines: - Works with manual as well as electronic
controls. Domestic treadle sewing machines comes under this group. Used for
sewing at home, tailoring shops as well as in industry.
2. High Speed Lockstitch Machines: -These are lock stitch machines used in
industrial purpose hence it is called “Industrial sewing machine”. An industrial
sewing machine is specifically built for long term, professional sewing tasks and is
therefore constructed with superior durability, parts and motors.
3. Double Needle Machine: - These machines work with electronic controls at a
high speed. Machine consists of two needles which function together. Double row
of stitching can be obtained in a single operation. Used particularly for sewing
jeans, safari suits etc, where double seams are required.
4. Button Sewing Machine: - This is also a high-speed electronic machine used for
attaching buttons on garments. Buttons with 2 or 4 holes or shanks can be sewn
on the same machine by simple adjustments.
5. Buttonhole Sewing Machine: - This is a very expensive machine used for sewing
button holes. The machine automatically slits through the garments and sews
round its edges to prevent fraying and stretching.
6. Zig zag Sewing Machine: These are used to make zig zag stitches, used to finish
the edges of garments.
7. Over lock / Over Edge Sewing Machine: - This machine stitches the edges of a
garment to be finished. It covers rough edges of fabric and gives a clear and neat
appearance where seam edges are visible. It is also used for assembling knitted
articles such as T-Shirts.
8. Blind Stitch Hemming Machine: - This machine is used to make blind hem
stitches. These stiches are not seen on the outer sides of the garments.
9. Bar tacking Machines: - They create bar tack stitches, a series of stitched used
to reinforce the areas of garments subjected to stress.
10. Fusing Machine: - Fusing machine is used for fusing and pressing the inside
fabric and surface material together. It is also used to fuse collars, cuffs and front
placket. There are several kinds of fusing machines are widely used in the
industrial sectors.

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PARTS AND FUNCTIONS OF SEWING MACHINE

The basic structure of sewing machine is the same whether it is hand
operated sewing, treadle sewing machine or electric sewing machine. The sewing
machine has four regions – Head region, Arm region , Base region & Leg region.
The basic parts of sewing and their functions are listed below:
1. Head Region

b. Thread Take up Lever: - It moves up and down above the tension discs. At the outside
end of this lever, there is a small hole through which the thread passes.

c. Tension Disc: This is a simple mechanism where two concave discs are put together,
with the convex sides facing each other. The thread passes between the two discs. The
tension of the thread is adjusted by a spring and a nut which increases or decreases the
pressure on the disc.

d. Presser Foot: It helps to hold the cloth firmly for stitching properly.

e. Presser Foot Lifter: This is a lever which is attached to the presser bar for raising and
lowering the presser foot.

f. Thread Guide: It holds the thread in position from the spool to the needle.

g. Needle Bar: This is a steel rod to hold the needle at one end with the help of a clamp.

h. Face Plate: It is the cover which when removed gives access to the oiling points on
needle bar; pressure bar and thread take up lever.

2. Arm Region

i. Spool Pin: It holds the spool of thread in the pin on the top of the machine.

j. Balance / Fly wheel: Treadle operated sewing machine has two fly wheels – the bigger
one at the lower side right to the treadle and the smaller one at the right side of head
part of machine. The smaller one is also referred as balance wheel or hand wheel. When
this is made to revolve, the machine starts to work.

k. Clutch or Thumb Screw: It is seen at the centre of the balance wheel and it engages
and disengages the stitching mechanism.

l. Bobbin Winder: This facilitates the winding of thread on the bobbin. Some are made to
stop automatically when the bobbin is full.

m. Stitch Regulator: This controls the length of the stitch. Some regulators can be set to
stitch in reverse.

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3. Base Region
n. Slide Plate: It helps to insert and take out, the bobbin case from the shuttle by sliding
the plate.
o. Needle / Throat plate: This is a semi-circular plate with a hole to allow the needle to
pass through it and collect the bobbin thread.
p. Feed Dog / Teeth: This consists of a set of teeth fitted below the needle plate. It helps
to move the cloth forward while sewing.
q. Bobbin Case: This moves into position to catch the top thread and form the stitch, as
the needle is lowered into the bobbin chamber.
r. Shuttle: Bobbin case is fitted in the shuttle.

4. Leg region

s. Treadle / Pedal: It is made out of iron. When pressing this with foot, the machine works.

t. Speed Wheel / Fly wheel: The big wheel seen in between the leg and treadle.

u. Wheel Guard: It guards the leather belt to revolve on the speed wheel.

v. Connecting Rod: It is the rod connecting the treadle and speed wheel.

w. Leather Belt: This is usually made out of leather, but a cloth Tape, Nylon wire or any
other strong rope can also be used.

Parts of a Sewing Machine

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