Fabric Spreading

Fabric spreading means smooth lying out of fabrics as per marker direction. Fabric
spreading is the preparatory process for cutting. In this processing no. Of plies up to
300 is possible in one lay. This is a preparatory operation for cutting and consists of
laying plies of cloth one on top of the other in a predetermined direction and
relationship between the right and wrong sides of the cloth. The composition of each
spread i.e. the number of plies of each color is obtained from the cut order plan.
Number of plies depends on:
1 Capacity of the cutting machine
2 Volume of production
3 Type of fabric itself (rough or slippery)
4 Thickness of fabric

Types of Fabric Spreading

The spreads can be of two basic types:
1. Flat spreads- all plies are of the same length.
2. Stepped spreads- this as the name suggests, is built up in steps, with all the plies in
one step having the same length. A stepped spread is generally used when the
quantities to be cut precludes the use of a flat spread. The cut order plan details the
colors and ply lengths for a stepped spread, if it is needed.

Spreading Quality Specification

1. Spreading quality must be measured with respect to the following factors:
2. Ply alignment: length and width
3. Ply tension: stretch, slack edge

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 4. Grain alignment: bowing
5. Splicing: waste and precision;
6. Damage placement: economy of placement;
7. Surface direction; and
8. Static electricity

Fabric Spreading Objective

The objective of spreading is given below
1. To place a number of plies of fabric under the marker according to the
planning process.
2. In the color required
3. Correctly aligned as to length and width
4. At correct tension

General Fabric Spreading System

Before spreading some parameters must be kept in mind
1. Mark the Splice Zone on the Spreading Table
2. Use Paper for the first ply in case the table surface is rough or when fine
fabrics are being spread
3. Identify the defects noticed in the fabric by means of sticker
4. Use lubricated paper for separating layer
5. To prevent scorching in the natural fibers (coarse fabrics).
6. To prevent fusing in the synthetic fabrics.
7. Ensure that decided number of ply count and height of the spread is achieved.

How to spread
1. Pull the fabric to far end position
2. Position the fabric at the far end (with our without weight or pins)
3. Align the ply (width on one side)
4. Cut the ply after each layer
5. Repeat this process from until the entire roll is spread
6. Check ply count

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Spreading layering the fabrics
Fabric spreading is very important part of the production process because it is basic
for obtaining a high quality final product. Spreading is the process of unwinding large
rolls of fabric onto long, wide tables in preparation for cutting each piece of a
garment. The number of garments desired and the fabric thickness dictates the number
of layers of fabric. Fabric Spreading Machines are used for bulk production.

Spreading or Laying
Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long, wide tables in
preparation for cutting each piece of a garment. The number of garments desired and
the fabric thickness dictates the number of layers of fabric. Spreading can be done by
hand or machine. Depending upon the fabric and cutting technology, up to 200 layers
of fabric may be cut at one time. Fabrics that are more difficult to handle are generally
cut in thinner stacks.

Spreading and cutting is smooth laying out of fabric in superimposed layers or piles
of specified length. The cutting marker is laid on the topmost layer. The maximum
cutting width is the usable fabric width minus selvedge or needle marks caused by
stencil marks. Fabric utilization is the amount of fabric actually utilized in the marker
as the percentage of the total fabric area.

Types of Lay Plan

1. Half Garment Lay includes only half of the garment pieces for example one
side left or right. Generally used for tubular fabrics.
2. Whole Garment Lay includes garment pieces, left and right sides. Generally

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 used for Open width fabrics.
3. Single Size Lay is used using all garment pieces of one single size.
Disadvantageous as the consumption of fabric is higher.

Types of Lay
1. Single Ply is a single layer of fabric generally to make samples
2. Multiple Ply is a number of fabric layers stacked on one top of other
3. Stepped Lay is multiple lay in which groups of layers have different lengths
generally used for getting best utilization and consumption of fabric.

Removing Tension in the Lay

1. An essential element of spreading is to relax tension in the fabric during the
2. Spreading process. Should there be any significant stretch in the fabric after
3. Spreading, when the fabric is cut into parts, each part will shrink. Even 5%
shrinkage is enough to change a whole garment size

Forms of Spreading
1. One Way Cutting is when fabric is laid the same way up with grain or print
pattern running in the same direction. Fabric has to be cut at the end of each
ply.
2. Fact to Face Cutting is when the plies are laid in pairs face to face. The grain
or pattern runs in the same direction.
3. Two Way Cutting is when plies are laid continuously from left to right and
right to left without cutting at the end. Most Efficient method of spreading.
Cannot be used with grain restrictions or one directional printed fabric.

Presentation of Fabrics
Presentation depends on type of materials, their application. Generally fabrics are
Open width (rolled), Doubled (wound) and Tubular (plaited)

Requirements of Spreading Process

1. Alignment of plies in both length and width direction- length and width of
fabric must be at least equal to marker length and width.

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 2. Elimination of fabric defects/flaws- any faults identified on the incoming
fabrics will be tagged and will be avoided.
3. Correct ply direction (especially for asymmetrically printed fabrics)- all faces
up, all faces down, face-to-face etc.
4. Correct ply tension- ply tension must be uniform and as much less as
possible.
5. Avoidance of distortion in the spread during cutting- polythene sheets are used
under the bottom ply to resist friction of the bottom ply with the base plate of
the knife.
6. Fabrics must be flat and free from any crinkle & crease- these cause defects in
garments due to variation in dimension.
7. Checks and stripes should be matched.

Objectives of spreading process

1. Understanding the process of fabric spreading
2. Factors affecting spreading
3. Face and nap of the fabric

The Spreading Process

Spreading process and spreading mode is very important terms of garments
manufacturing. Quality of garments depends upon the spreading process and
spreading mode. Manual spreading process is slower than automatic spreading
process. Quality of spreading process is depends upon operator quality.

Two aspects of spreading that affect spreading efficiency are the setup and actual
layout of fabric. Setup involves loading and threading fabric through the spreader and
positioning the machine and related equipment. The actual process of spreading
involves laying out fabric in the desired number of layers. Fabric may be spread face
up, face down, or face-to-face.

Spreading Modes
A spreading mode is the manner in which fabric plies are laid out for cutting. The
spreading mode is determined by the fabric characteristics, quality standards of the

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firm, and available equipment.

Two fabric characteristics that determine the spreading mode are the direction of
fabric face and the direction of the fabric nap.

1. Direction of Fabric Nap:

A second consideration in selecting the spreading mode relates to the direction of the
fabric nap. Placement of the nap may be nap-one-way (N/OW) or nap-up-and-down
(N/U/D).

2. Direction of Fabric Face

The fabric face may be positioned in two ways: face-to-face (F/F) or with all plies
facing-one-way (F/O/W), face up or face down. Face-to-face (F/F) spreading may be
continuous as the spreader moves up and down the table.

Fabric Put-up and Spreading Modes

1. Fabric Put-up; Open and Rolled

Fig: Fabric is flat open with the face to the inside of the roll

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2. Fabric Put-up; Folded and Rolled

Fig: Fabric is folded on one end and both selvedges are superimposed on the other edge of the roll. Face is to the inside of each folded layer

3. Fabric Put-up; Tubular Fabric Rolled

Fig: Tubular Fabric from a circular knitting machine is rolled up. Face is to the inside of the roll, and there is a fold at each end of the roll

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4. Spreading Mode; Open Fabric, Face One Way, Nap One Way (F/O/W,
N/O/W)

Fig: Spreading starts at one end of the table on each ply

5. Spreading Mode; Open Fabric, Face One Way, Nap UP and Down (F/O/W,
N/U/D)

Fig: Spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is cut at the far end, rotated 180 degrees, then spread to the beginning. The Fabric is cut and rotated 180 degrees then the process is repeated.

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6. Spreading Mode; Open Fabric, Face to Face, Nap One Way (F/F, N/O/W)

Fig: Spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is cut at the far end, the roll is brought to the beginning of the table, rotated 180 degrees, then spread to the far end again. The Fabric is cut at the far end, bro
table, rotated 180 degrees then the process is repeated.

7. Spreading Mode; Open Fabric, Face to Face, Nap Up and Down (F/F, N/U/D)

Fig: Spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is folded over at the far end, then spreading continues back to the beginning of the table. The Fabric is folded over then the process is repeated.

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8. Spreading Mode; Folded Fabric, Face to Face, Nap One Way (F/F, N/O/W)

Fig: Folded fabric spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is cut at the far end, then returned to the beginning. Then the process is repeated. On the control side of the table the Fold is superimposed one
process is also used on tubular rolled fabric

9. Spreading Mode; Folded Fabric, Face to Face, Nap Up and Down (F/F, N/U/D)

Fig: Spreading starts at one end of the table. Fabric is spread to the far end of the table. The fabric is folded over, then spread back to the beginning. The fabric is folded over, then the process is repeated. On the
is superimposed one layer on the previous layer. This process is also used on tubular rolled fabric

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Fig: THE SPREADING PROCESS & SPREADING MODES OF FABRIC IN A GARMENTS FACTORY

The Method of Fabric Spreading

The Method of Fabric Spreading are describe below:
1. Manual method: This method is three types:
a. By hand
b. By hook
c. Spreading truck with the help of operator.
2. Mechanical method: This method is two types:
a. Semiautomatic
b. Full automatic

By Hand: Fabric roll is spread on the table by two laborers according to the length &
width of marker. Sometimes entering a rod, which is made by wood, does it or metal
in the center paper table, which is present in the center of the fabric roll.

By Hook: In this process the top of the table on which the fabric is spread is set at 10
angle perpendicularly. The hook, which placed on the upper face of the table, is 15cm
long and the hook is joined with one end of selvedge of the fabric. After completing
the spreading of fabric, the top of the table is set again. The hooks are displaced and
the marker is spread on the fabric lay.

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Spreading truck with the help of operator: There is a spreading truck on the one
end of the spreading table in which the fabric roll is placed. Then the truck is operated
by hand from one end to the other end of the table & with the same time the fabric is
open out from the fabric rolls and the fabric is spread according to the length and
width.

Semiautomatic: Spreading machine is run on the rails, which are placed at two side
of fabric spreading table surface and operated by motor. Fabric roll is set in a
predetermined place of the machine. The machine is run from one side to the other
side of table by using electrical and mechanical motion and fabric is spread to make
lay.

Full automatic: This is the improvement of semiautomatic machine. There are so

many advantages of this machine to make fabric lay because this machine is operated
by controlling with the help of robot and microprocessor.

Automatic Programmable Spreading Machines

All the requirements of spreading process can be fulfilled by fully automatic
spreading machines. Their features include:
1. Automatic loading/unloading and threading/rewinding device for fabric rolls.
2. Automatic roll turning arrangement for face to back lay.
3. Automatic leveling device for fabric edge alignment.
4. Automatic cutting device (one way or two way cutoff) at the end of a run.
5. Automatic tensioning device to control fabric tension.
6. Automatic lay height sensing elevator.
7. Programmable lay length, ply height and step-laying.
8. Spreading seeds up to 140 m/min.

Techniques for Spreading Quality

1. Removing Tension in the lay
2. Cutting at the Ends
3. Reducing fabric waste at the end

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4. Fabric Control during Spreading
5. Damage Remove
6. Ends and Damaged Good.
7. Spreading is the main operation where quality can be control before cutting.

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References
http://textilelearner.blogspot.in/2014/01/configuration-of-spreading-systems-
used.html

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