1.

FABRIC – LENGTH, WIDTH, WEIGHT &COUNT

Why important?
To find out how much fabric is needed to make a
desired product
Eg. : pant, curtain, table cloth
1. Length and Width (IS method) :
Fabric is usually exposed to conditioning (to lab conditions)
Measured using scale on a sample taken from population (usually three areas) –
Mean value is taken
Measurement is taken from end to end – between two selvedge
• Scale
• Measuring table
• Machine – Trumeter is used
Width, whereas is measured as distance from one selvedge to another
(perpendicular to fabric length)
 FABRIC – LENGTH, WIDTH, WEIGHT and COUNT

2. Fabric Weight : [grams per square meter]

Sample (from 3 locations) is taken and cut using GSM Cutter
Weighed using an electronic weighing balance
 FABRIC – LENGTH, WIDTH, WEIGHT and COUNT
3. Fabric Count: [no. of warp and weft yarns in one inch of
fabric]
It is number of thread in ONE unit of length
Threads include warp and weft
Defined as “no of yarns in the warp and weft yarns in one inch of a
fabric.
Measured using pick glass and needle or counting device
 2. Tensile strength
Why this test ?
•Important test for – knitted, nonwoven, lace
•Bursting strength is method to measure the strength, where the material is
stretched in all directions and pressure is applied.
•Filters, sack, net, parachute, clothing near knee and elbow – these suffer
pressure in all directions
•Bursting in service happens, so in same
condition test is also done

What tests can be done?

1.Diaphragm bursting test
2.Ball bursting test (Picture here ->)
Use a inch diameter ball (solid) as pressure
 How?
Diaphragm bursting test
Sample is taken
Placed in the clamp and
tightened
Machine is run, Piston starts to
pressure and pressure gauge
shows reading
Pressure keeps raising and fabric
bursts
Reading is noted in gauge
Here pressure can be gas/liquid
Step 1: Ten samples – tested –
average
1st – without sample – machine is
run.
Extension of rubber
diaphragm is noted. (P2)
Sample should burst within
20 + 3 sec (P1)
P1-P2 = bursting strength of the
specimen
 3. Fabric Drape
Why?
•It is the way in which the fabric hangs
in its own weight
•Important to assess how a garment
will look when it is worn
What?
Drape meter / Cusick Drape Test
How?
•Based on type of fabric – specimen size change
•The fabric is laid on a plate, and the ligt source is used to get
the shadow. More shadow region –more drape.
Drape meter /Cusick Drape Test
Drape meter /Cusick Drape Test
 How? Drape co-efficient (D)= A3 - A2
<1
Drape meter /Cusick Drape Test A1 - A2
Light source is On and shadow of
support disc is taken

This gives
Total Initial Area of Specimen
(circle like diagram)

Fabric is hung on disk and

shadow is taken
A1 = Total Initial area of specimen (outside instrument)
Calculation is done A2 = Area of support disk (plate)
A3 = Total projected area (sample - shadow)
 4. Fabric Thickness
Why?
•Fabric insulation property, drape, porosity
and simply the durability is understood from
this value
How?
•Thickness gauge instrument measure fabric’s
thickness
•Thickness value depend on pressure applied on
fabric during testing (so pressure value should be
mentioned)
•The fabric is placed on flat anvil and circular
pressure foot is press the fabric under and Digital
standard fixed load Fabric Thickness
Precise measurement of distance between two plane parallel
plates, separated by cloth, when known pressure is applied and
maintained on the plate

•Maximum capacity : 10mm

•Thickness in millimetre
•Standard Dead weight

•Least count of dial gauge : Accuracy 0.01mm

•Throat depth : 22 mm
Procedure:
Fabric is kept on anvil, press foot is lowered, reading showcasing the
sample thickness in mm is noted on the dial. Three different locations,
sample thickness is tested
 5. Pilling/Abrasion Testing
Why?
•Small knots on the surface of fabric – undesirable – pilling
•Result of abrasion (rubbing of two surfaces)
•Different qualities of fiber
•Low twist -> high hairiness -> Pilling
What?
•Objective and subjective method (Visual)
•Martindale abrasion tester
•ICI Pilling box
Visually how?
•Counting the number of pills – in a small area
•Removing and weighing them – from a specific area
•Comparing with a standard sample/ photo – analyzing the difference
 How to test ?
ICI PILLING TESTER
Four specimen (125mm x 125mm) are taken
[2 in warp/2 in weft]

Placed on polyurethane tube and

sewn on tube

Put inside the box

5 hours – 18,000 revolutions

Sample compared with standard

(Pilling can be seen)

Graded
1 – poor
5 – very good (no pilling)
 6. Crease Recovery
Why?
•Crease is an undesirable property – caused by type of
fiber used
•Fabrics that can resist a crease is appreciated
•Wool and silk – good crease resistance (structure)
•Cotton, linen, viscose – bad crease resistance
What?
Shirley Crease recovery tester
How?
Instrument has sample holder and circular dial
 How?
Shirley Crease recovery tester • Note : Selvedge should not be
Specimen of used
2 inch long 1 inch wide taken and
folded half • Warp side and weft way is taken –
each ten readings
Weight of 2 kg is placed on the
fabric – for 1 min • Load, time of creasing, recovery
time – changes as per end product
Specimen is taken and hung on the
center of instrument • Higher recovery angle – show
good
• More theresistance
angle – more against
crease crease
recovery the
1 min – time given fabric has (fish net, chiffon scarf)
and recovery is checked – angle noted• Less angle – less recovery (leather,
(before & after –its difference ) cardboard)
 Shirley Crease
Recovery Tester

• The scale is 180

degree calibration
• When sample is folded
into half , it travels
from that 180 to
another degree.
• The difference in first
and last degree value
should be observed
and noted
Different Types
of Fabric
Stiffness or
Bending modulus
7. Fabric Stiffness
or Bending modulus
Why important?
•Each fabric is different
•When understanding of a fabrics performance it is important
we check the drape/ bending capability/ smooth/ tough/ stiff
etc.,
What test is done?
Shirley stiffness tester/ hand crank
How is test done ?
A horizontal strip of fabric is made to bend because of its
own weight . Small scale is used in guiding the fabric in the
action. The angle is considered.
 Base flat = sprit

Sample 150 x 25 mm using

Acrylic Specimen Preparing Template

Using calibrated scale fabric is

moved
till the edge of the sample
touch the two inclined lines

Angle and reading on scale is noted.

Repeated 4 times for average value

 8. Air
Permeability
Why?
•Transfer of air, water, heat by textile is
important to determine comfort
•Various textile product like sails, air bag,
parachute, filter needs this test result
• Curtain – high air permeability
• Fire resistant, pesticide clothing –
medium air permeability
•Fiber nature, yarn type, structure of fabric
affects this value (Compare W and K)
Principle for test:
A specific volume of air is passed through the textile material –
and resultant air volume is evaluated. Difference is discussed

Air permeability is volume of air (in cc) (volume) which pass in one
second (time) through 1 cm of fabric (area)under a pressure head of 1 cm2
of water
How?

•This test is important to measure how

good the fabric can transfer air
•twist factor,
•thermal properties (fiber used)
•cloth cover
•Fiber and yarn type,
•structure of fabric affects this value

Shirley Air Permeability Apparatus is

used
 Testing for Air Permeability

Air permeability is volume of air (in cc) which pass in one sec
through 1 cm2 of fabric under a pressure head of 1 cm of water
Suction pump – A
By-pass valve – B
Series valve – C
Draught gauge – D
Reservoir – E  
Safety valve – F
Rota meter –R
Specimen –S
 Shirley Air Permeability tester Temperature 20±2oC
Suction pipe A draws air and 65±2% R.H.
through sample S

B, C control the air flow

D – monitor amount of air
E – reservoir to control air flow
F is safety value to prevent accidents
Either permeability or
resistance is calculated
Initially air is pumped through first
tube in R, later in second and so on

As the air is pressurized in the

region below S, the readings in D is
noted
•If sample is loosely woven, more air pass
•Material like leather less air only is transferred
 8. Abrasion tester
Why?
•Fabric abrasion is one of wear.
Repeated application of stress
Inherent fiber properties
Are major reasons for causing abrasion
 FACTORS THAT AFFECT ABRASION
1.Condition of specimen (Dry/wet)
2.Choice of testing instrument: e .g-flat abrasion, flexing abrasion, etc.
3.Choice of abrasive motion : Movement may be reciprocating, rotary or
multidirectional.
4.Direction of abrasion : Direction of abrasion - can be at angles to the warp and
weft directions.
5.Choice of abradant : For example: steel and silicon carbide, standard worsted
or canvas fabric, emery cloth of various grade are also used as abradant
6.Backing the specimen - felt or foam rubber
7.Cleanliness of the specimen and instrument : accessories of the instrument
which may rub the fabric must be spotlessly clean and free from grease
8.Tension on the specimen
9.The pressure between abradant and specimen
10.The end point of the test
How?
•Cut the fabric (4 pieces) – take the weight
•Place the samples in instrument under certain load
•Start the machine- observe the counter of abrasion no
•Abrasion of 200 – take the first sample - weigh it
•Abrasion of 300 - second sample - weigh it
•After abrasion – 400/ 500 - take their weight
•Before and after weight – taken - find their wear index
 DIFFERENT TYPES OF TESTS FOR WOVEN
1. Tensile strength - STRENGTH
2. Tearing strength – MAXIMUM STRENGTH
3. Bursting Strength – POWER TO WITHSTAND FORCE
4. Pilling resistance – NO SHORT FIBERS
5. Abrasion resistance - ON USEAGE - FORCE – PRESSURE
6. Seam Slippage - SEAM QUALITY ON USEAGE
7. Recovery Test – FABRIC AFTER STRETCHING - POWER TO GET BACK TO
ORIGINAL SHAPE
8. Water Repelency – POWER TO REPEL WATER
9. pH Value 0-7-14 [ACIDIC-NEUTRA-BASIC]
10. Pile Loss - HOW MUCH PILE CAME OUT AFTER ABRASION
Other basic tests include
 Flame retardant
 Presence of chemicals
 Heavy metal like mercury
 Crimp test
 Shrinkage
COLOUR FASTNESS
All these affect the serviceability /durability which is the most important factor in
making a textile product and purchase of a product.
 Change in surface
 Wearing/worn out/ sagging of garment
 Tearing
TEST FOR COLOR FASTNESS
COLOUR FASTNESS: When a dyed/ printed textile is exposed to water and light, there will
be a change in the color. There are various types of issues that a colored fabric face.

Colour will go in washing Eg: Cotton chudi top

When colour bleed from one part to other Eg. White and red cotton sari
Color bleeds from fabric when wearing Eg. Uniform sari.
After 10 wash, colour starts to fade
Mistakenly dried under sun (tag will have no sun dry)
Bleach for whites and color is available. Once a new bleach is applied to a fabric, it
may loose color completely showing some signs
There are cases when a white fabric is stained by the border color (red) – color
fastness by rubbing
There are different types of Color Fastness namely
1.Color fastness to Washing – after wash – color bleeding/ fading
2.Color Fastness to Dry Cleaning – after dry cleaning – color bleeding/
fading
3.Color Fastness to Ironing – after hot iron – color change
4.Color Fastness to Water - on exposure to water – change in
color
5.Color Fastness to Rubbing – on rubbing – color change
6.Color Fastness to Perspiration – on exposure to sweat – changes
7.Color Fastness to Light – on exposure to sunlight – color
change
8.Color Fastness to Chlorine Bleach – on exposure to chlorine bleach
Light Fastness – measured in scale of 1 to 8
Wash fastness – measured in scale of 1 to 5
Higher number better fastness
References
1.https://nptel.ac.in/courses/116102029/
2.https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2013/07/different-types-of-fabric-testing-
with.html
3.Principles of Textile Testing: An Introduction to Physical Methods of Testing
Textile Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics, J. E. Booth, 1986
4.Handbook of Textile Testing and Quality Control. Elliot B. Grover and D. S.
Hamby. Textile Book Publishers (Interscience), New York, 1960
5.A Practical Guide to Textile Testing, K. Amutha, Woodhead Publishing
Company, India, 2016.