Ak F.A.Q. Dioramas Water Ice&snow

COMPOSITION CONSTRUCTION ASSEMBLY PAINTING WEATHERING
STEP BY STEP GUIDE BY THE MASTER MODELER
wa 1.2 w
ter EXTENSI O
n
N
o
, ice and s
BY
RUBEN GONZALEZ
THE COMPLETE GUIDE FOR DIORAMAS
AND ENVIRONMENTS
e w
n ma product r a n g e
i o r a
d products
new
After a long time of study,

research, tests and tryouts we
are proud to introduce to you our new
Diorama product range inside our DIORAMA
Series. You will find multiple effects, from different
types of water to snow, many ground types from wet to
dry, asphalt, concrete and so many more. Ground splatter
effects to achieve more realism on certain parts, as vehicles,
buildings etc. You will also find a two component product
to make the most realistic water possible. And a very
special product to recreate snow using micro-balloons and
many new upcoming surprises from this evolving Diorama
Series range. These new range will make your diorama
build so easy and fun that you will not believe it.
Original idea and concept:
AK Interactive
Art direction:
AK Interactive
BMS
English text:
Abilio Piñeiro
Graphic design:
BMS Designs
AK Interactive
Produced and distributed by
© 2018 AK Interactive.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any
form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, actual or future, including photocopy,
recording or any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing
www.ak-interactive.com Follow us on from the publishers.
Where it all began...
I was born in Teruel, Spain, some years ago. I probably wasn't 13 years old before I held my first model
in my hands. I remember it like it was yesterday. One day, after watching me build some paper cutout
models, my mother showed up with a couple of Matchbox kits, a Spitfire and Mosquito in 1:72 scale,
which I naively painted with bright enamel paints. That's how it all started.
From then on I remember going to the "model shop" every Saturday to buy another kit. It became a rit-
ual. My purchases alternated between aircraft and mini-dioramas, mostly Matchbox kits in 1:72 scale.
Although I have worked in a wide range of subjects and continue to do so, I have come to realize that
my main area of interest is land, and when I say "land", I use that word literally, because the genre
that continues to attract me is the diorama. I am passionate about this little slice of reality, because it
contains and unites all aspects of life: figures, vehicles, buildings, environment, climate, even air. As
a genre, it envelops everything.
Underlying it all is my passion for this hobby that I enjoy so much. I think my vision of modeling is sim-
ple; friends and fun. Friends, with whom you share much more than just a model or a hobby, and who
recognize your effort and from whom you will always learn. Friends with whom you always have fun.
Rubén González Hernández
Dedicated to who has been and will always be part of my family.

Thanks for everything you gave us José.
Goodbye, Rasito!
This publication is intended to cover a wide range of topics; hicles, buildings and terrain, all arranged to form a cohesive
the how, when, and why, that every modeler who has ever scene. It may sound easy but in truth it is an elusive goal
sought to build a vignette or diorama, simple or complex, which we all dream of, but which few manage to achieve.
has at some point contemplated. Vignettes or dioramas
sound simple, but in reality we are talking about a complex If we attend many shows and contests, we can easily see
and delicate discipline that is a compendium of other disci- that a well executed "atmospheric diorama" (as they are
plines which require mastery to give satisfying results. called here locally) is a rare thing, but a thing that we know
immediately when we see one. When you approach it you
But to begin we must know exactly what a diorama is. In can almost breathe the atmosphere it creates!
terms of modeling one could say that a diorama or vignette
is a kind of model which shows a vehicle, figure, buildings or Even though we can sculpt our own figures and build our
structures in a given environment. From this point of view, vehicles starting completely from scratch, the most creative
even a simple vignette could be considered a small diorama. parts of any diorama or vignette are both its terrain and its
This may be a tough concept to grasp, but throughout this structures and buildings. Those are the areas where we can
publication you will notice that we don't place an emphasis exercise the most creativity. There are many commercial kits
on size, even if it is critical to the piece itself. of figures, vehicles, buildings, vegetation and accessories to
populate our dioramas, and even terrain bases that include
Now that we have introduced the definition of a diorama or various bits of detail and accessories, but it is only on a base
vignette, we can see that what we are really talking about is that we create ourselves that we can really integrate the
a variety of various disciplines. To carry out this kind of work, parts of the whole.
we must, more or less, master the techniques for assembling
and painting figures, animals, vehicles of all types and mate- Finally we achieve the ultimate culmination of modeling (in my
rials, buildings and structures of various types, shapes, sizes, humble opinion) from the cohesive merging together of all of
all deliberately placed in terrain and set in various climatic the different elements of atmosphere, accuracy, and effect,
conditions. making sure that everything fits and is integrated completely.
Next, we arrive at the topic of staging and composition. The I hope I have sparked your interest in dioramas, an interest
basic concept of the piece is the atmosphere that arises from that I share with my all of friends who have helped me to
the arrangement of all of the various elements, figures, ve- write this Book.
To all of you, and to all of them, thank you.

8 I. WATER
10 • Flowing water
10 CREEK
24 Curso con cascada
55 • Ponds and lakes
70 • Snow
70 Snow, water and ice
92 snow and mud
100 • Ice PLATES
108 • Beach with waves
114 II. SPECIAL EFFECTS

115 • Road sinkhole
118 • Puddles
118 SHALLOW PUDDLES OVER GROUND
122 MUDDY ROAD WITH WATER
126 • Cracked and humid channel
6 / FAQ DIORAMAS 1.2
This book or appendix is intended to be a clear complement to the
previous FAQ Dioramas publication. In this second part dedicated to
the preparation of our scenes and grounds we will see, perhaps, the
most important and one of the issues that brings the most headaches
to modelers, such as the treatment of water, snow or ice, together to
a whole series of special effects related to water that we can include
in our works.
Throughout its pages, we have tried, simply and with easy methods
available to everyone, to show you how to incorporate the liquid
element in its various states to our dioramas or vignettes.
This book brings closure to an important chapter in modeling our

hobby. It helps enhance the recreation of different ground effects and
settings of our models and figures.
FAQ DIORAMAS 1.2 / 7

WATER Flowing water
Ponds and lakes
Snow
Ice plates
Imitating water on a scene is not a simple task. In any of its possible
forms, either in liquid form in the form of ice or even snow, will Beach with waves
require an extra effort as it will involve research and trying a
multitude of materials and different application forms.
Its representation is not easy. We will need both time and skill.
Before tackling this task, it is convenient to encourage yourself. One
of the recommendations that I always make is to set myself and try
to imitate the work that others have already made with fantastic
results.
This is an effort that many modelers do not consider but that

sometimes is the only alternative to make our work more convincing
and show what you want to represent.

ESSENTIALS
There are many products in the market to imitate water in it's many forms. Here you are some of them:
VARNISHES AND MEDIUMS GELS AND SILICONES

These are specific products used to finish or during th finishing phase They are also finishing products that help us to represent
due to their bright appearance once they have dried. Very useful to both shallow water streams like puddles. They are the perfect
represent the moisture on the ground, on a vehicle or a figure. You can complement for the resins as they allow to obtain relief and give the
use it alone or in combination with other products to add color and sensation of movement.
change its final appearance.
ARTIFICIAL SNOW
RESINS There are many products to imitate the snow, all of them in powder
They are building products, it means that, with them we can form. They can be combined with some products from type gel,
represent from a watercourse to a stream or even the sea itself. The varnishes or even with white glue allowing to obtain different
result is usually obtained combining two products or components finishes. In combination with enamels and / or acrylics we will add
(resin plus catalyst) that dries in contact with the air. Its finish is very some color, expanding the range of finishes.
hard and sparkly. It is not a final finish but requires treatment as, due
to the way it dries, it generates surfaces completely smooth.

WATER
FLOWING WATER
CREEK
We are going to create a simple scene to depict flowing water

along a river. The ground will have two diferent heights. The upper
one is dry soil and the other the river water.
We will use a branch/tree to add more height to the scene. The

roots are made of two part putty.
An oval base made of foam, and covered with Das Pronto, is more
than enough to made this simple scene. The edges are covered with
plaster. This is very useful to seal the external perimeter of the base
using tape prior pouring the water mix.
The bottom of the river has some texture made with sand and small
pebbles glued with white glue and water.
The main elements of the

scene are the water as
well as an old rusted
and abandoned
Sherman turret.
Try to place the
turret when the
ground it's still
wet.
The we will start to

build the tree. Here
you have the basic
elements used.
Once all the main elements are in place we can sand the external
surface of the base with the help of a sanding stick.

First we will drill a hole in the tree, where the branch is
supossed to be inserted. Try to drill with an angle.
Try to make a hole of the same diameter of the branches,

specially if they are small, as it will be easier to glue them.
If the branches are larger we can insert a piece of metal
rod into the branch.
The selected branches will be carefully glued using

Cyanoacrylate glue, from bottom to top.
We will proceed the same way with the roots. Try to use real roots
as the look is different as the branches.
We must add roots

of different sizes to
add a natural look
The tree is to the tree.
taking shape
little by little.

Then we can apply a layer Finally we can apply a layer of plaster
of two part putty to fill on the edges. It's very important to
in the gaps between the achieve a smooth and hard surface
roots and the ground. as we have to fix the tape and fill in
with the resin. We have to avoid any
leakage.
The tree trunk is painted in brown

acrylic tones using the wet technique.
We can finally apply a

wash using AK263 Dark
Brown wash to add
more depth.
The groundwork is
painted using AK022
and AK080 again with
the wet technique.
Some parts were

The stones and airbrushed with a
rocks were painted dark shade, AK024
in sand and grey Dark Streaking Grime
tones. and White Spirit.

The base was covered with
crushed foam. First we apply a
mix of white glue and water...
The interior of the turret was

...and then covered with sea ball, then
we sprinkle was washed with AK026 and
crushed foam. AK027 Slimy Grime.
We repeat the process over the tree

roots using AK027, the lighter tone.
Cyanoacrylate
glue was used to
fix the moss...
...sprinkling some
moss when still wet.

The base it's half
way the end.
We apply again a Dark Wash with AK045 to

add the depth lost duirng the previous steps.
Time to add the tall grass of the bottom. We bend the

grass to add the sense of movement under the water.
Once the turret is fixed we can add the

tall grass and branches using a needle to
drill the base and white glue.

We will glue each bundle into
the ground using white glue.
We add more sea ball

and tall grass in the
empty spaces.
We use the enamel washes to add

colour to the grass and bundles. You
can also paint them before glueing.
Painting
them
We add some
with vivid acrylic
different plants
colours using the wet
and leaves.
technique.
The plants are all glued

following the same direction.

The ground is ready and
you can feel the sense
of movement even
without water.
We will focus for a while in the ground outside the water, adding
some more leaves and artificial plants secured with white glue. More plants were added around the trunk, Creeper plant.

The work with the
vegetation is finished, in
and outside the water.
We decided to paint and add a couple

of fish, adding dinamism.
We inserted a
clear rod into each
fish so you will not
notice it once we
pour the water. It's
important to place
them in a logical
place.

The edges are covered with thin acetate film.
Double side tape and Blu-tack is

used to seal the previous work.
We used two components transparent still water,

AK8043, following the proportions indicated by the
brand, in 2-4mm layers to avoid the bubbles.
We can dye each layer with enamel green tones. We have

to dye the component 1, stiring to remove the bubbles.
Then we can add the amount of component 2,

stiring well and removing the bubbles.

Pour the mix carefully.
The last layer is almost

Working in thin layers to transparent. Once dry we can
avoid the bubbles. remove the acetate film.
The external side of the base was covered with Once is completelly dry we
plywood slats, painted with a mix of green acrylic can remove the paint with a
paint and 10% of AK236 Washable Agent. stiff brush moistened in water.
We prepare a small amount

of AK8002 Water Gel
thinned with water.
Covering the whole

surface of the water.

Now you can softly
touch the surface with a
soft brush to achieve an
uneven look. Try to avoid
the bubbles.
Once dry you can see the

overall look and the initial
sense of movement.
The water foam around

the turret is done with
a mix of AK8002 Gel,
AK8007 Gel Effects and a
small amount of AK8010
Snow Microballoons. Use
a fine and soft brush.

We blend the
foam with the
water.
Using a
toothpick we
can add more
texture.
We can also add a mix of Gel and white acrylic paint Finally we apply a layer of transparent gel diluted with
to intensify the effect. water to enhance the brightness of the foam.
Overall
look of the
water finished.
Very realistic.

Good fishing
Verlinden – Mantis 1:35

WATER
FLOWING WATER
WATERCOURSE WITH WATERFALL
Moving forward with the water we are going to make

a small waterfall in a stream of channeled water.
We will represent a ditch with a gate and a water run
course that meets a small jump.
While the representation of water is not complicated,

it's more difficult to represent its movement. On
this occasion, we will show you not only how to do
the movement but also it's fall and the foam that it
generates.
As we will see, the order to perform the different

elements and effects is of utmost importance.
Foam is the main element to build our

scene. We have to be meticulous with
the measurements and the cut.
The sanding of the pieces is as important as the

cutting. It's advisable to use a good sandpaper with
the accurate grain. Foam is a very delicate material.
We check the fitting and

Our puzzle is made of different types of foam. main volumes of the scene.

White glue is perfect to fix Press the pieces of foam
the foam. Better if you use and then let it dry for a
a fast drying one. few hours.
If we need to improve the resistance of

the pieces we can use a simple tip. First
apply a layer of white glue in one side.
Keep pressing
the pieces
together.
Use half pieces of toohpicks as

spikes inserting them into the
The ground is
pieces of foam. This will help to
taking shape.
strengthen the set.

We will add a small corner of a
building engraved over a piece
of plaster. It was painted with
acrylics and weathered with
enamels. The roof is made of
cardboard tiles.
Overall look of the main

elements and the building.

MAKING
A WALL
We are going to add a small reinforced wall made of bricks using

cork shhet.
We add the previous cut bricks with contact glue. It's advisable to
check how the contact glue affects the foam.
Once we have checked the

The wall placed wall we can damage the
on the ground. surface with a scourer pad.
Then we have to apply

a layer of plaster or
AK104 Grey filler as we
can dilute it with water.

The bricks are painted with
brown and orange acrylic
tones diluted with water.
Use white glue to fix

Then we can glue it over the the brick wall.
foam and carry on our job.

We go over the weathering Deposit the oils
process. Using Abt035 Buff, straight from
092 Ocher, 080 Brown the piece of
Wash, 090 Industrial Earth, cardboard...
015 Shadow Brown and 225
Midnight Blue we will achieve
an intersting look.
...and blend them over

the surface with mixing
them completely. Use
White Spirit.
The wall finished.

CONSTRUCTION
OF A DOOR
Even if we only need a piece of door, it must be built and painted

the same as it would be with a complete door. For its construction,
various types of wooden slats and plastic rod for the hinges were
used. Once finished received a coat of AK084 Engine Oil so that it
is dyed of dark wood.
Once the wash is dry we apply a layer of AK088 Worn Effects and
another of RC004 Flat White, removing the layer of paint with
water. The green moss is simulated with AK026 Dark Slimy Grime
and AK027 Light Slimy Grime diluted with White Spirit.
The use of the previous enamels help

to achieve interesting effects of wet
around the lower part...
And also around

the roof and slats.
Overall look of the

small building finished.

CONSTRUCTION OF
A IRRIGATION DITCH
It's advisable not to glue the ditch to handle it properly and

reach all the places. AK8014 Concrete paste is then applied
with the help of a putty knife or spatula.
This filler is really smooth and with a porous finish.
Then we use white It's really important to

glue and wood sticks seal the gaps to avoid
to fix it permanently. any leakage.
One of the advantages of this paste

used to imitate cement is that it
does not require a base color so we
can directly start with the setting
process. In this case we use dark oils
in the corners and recesses with the
same oil palette used in the low wall.

We also used brown oils over the edges and centre.
Oils are extremely polyvalent and can be used to simulate

moss and lichen in the walls. Abt.010 Yellow, 020 Faded
Dark Yellow and 092 Ocher are used.
Place the oils directly and blend them with a dry brush.
Use good visual references.

FLOODGATE
We used rods, plastic

sheets and profiles as well
as some bolts and a wheel.
The gate is finished but we

The axle is made rolling wire around a plastic rod don't know yet the position
and covering the set with Cyanoacrylate glue. of the opening.
Airbrush a layer of RC068

Red Brown both over the
We finally add some bolts. frame and the gate.
The rust stains are

made with acrylic
paints splashed over
the surface.
We also added rust

streaking grime.

Apply a coat of AK088 The base color is a mix of
Worn Effects RC002 Cream White and
RC006 Red to achieve a
faded pink look due the
sun exposure.
Once the paint is dry we can remove it with a

brush moistened in water. Use a needle to add
scratches and lines.
We can add streaking ...combined with lighter tones

grime using oils... depicting rainmarks and dirt.
The gate is fixed with The gate

white glue. was sealed
all around
with white
glue to avoid
leakages of
water.

VEGETATION
OF THE DITCH
The moss of the bottom of the ditch is made with a mix of green
foam, white glue and water in equals parts. First we apply the layer
of glue and water with a brush...
..and then we sprinkle the crushed foam.
The best way to add some color to the And then apply a further wash in the centre
crushed foam is to apply several washes with AK026 Dark Slimy Grime when still wet.
with AK045 Wash Brown.

Highlights are applied in the centre Yellow oil paint is also very helpful to add more brightness.
using AK027 Light Slimy Grime,
blending with the rest of the tones.
Once dry we can AK025 Fuel Stain is

check if the work added in the corners to
is right or on the add more depth.
other hand we need
to correct it.
AK079 Wet Effects is also applied. The result is a nice layer of

moss over the walls.
We can now fix the

gate with white glue...
...sprinkling more
dyed foam. Once dry
we can apply a few
filters to unify with
the rest of the piece.

WATER
STREAM
We used two component resin, AK8043 dyed with green and sand
colors. The color can vary depending on our liking and references.
We pour a small amount of the components in a plastic glass.

Add 4ml resin and 2ml hardener.
Then we can mix It's highly advisable to mix it very well and
and add a drop of thoroughly. The bubbles will reach the
the acrylic color surface of the liquid disappearing little by
chosen. Pour it little. It's important to check if the bubbles
little by little and disappear and remove them, but usually
check the tone. that never happens.
Add masking
tape to the edge
of the ditch and
pour the mix,
carefully.
Leave it to dry
during a day.
After that time
we can continue
with the rest of
the processes.

WATERFALL
We used a piece of plastic film (used to

wrap food) to achieve the waterfall.
Extend the piece of plastic over a

smooth surface, using masking tape
to secure the plastic. Add some
creases with the help of the fingers.
Apply a few layers of AK8002

Transparent Gel following the direction
of the water. This gel is thick so we can
achieve some kind of depth.
Let it dry and repeat the process 3 or 4

times to achieve more depth.
The plastic sheet can be easily bent even with a few

layers of gel applied. The effect is very realistic.

We have to be carefull when cutting the Apply white glue to
plastic sheet as a waterfall is wider in the the upper part of the
top than in the bottom. We can roll and waterfall to keep the
bend the upper area. bend in place.
Apply a light wash

with the same
green tones used
to dye the resin.
Cut the waterfall into

shape with a scissors.
The result once

washed and cut.

WATER FOAM
The water foam is done with cotton, giving shape

with a tweezers, hollowing the fibers.
Place a thin layer of cotton over

the bottom avoiding wrinkles.
Add different transparent effects with AK8002

Transparent Gel, randomly and with various depths.
Try to check your

references and
copy the effects.
Once the first

layer of foam is
dry we can glue
the plastic sheet
(waterfall).

The moss over
the step is also
covered with
foam. First apply
the transparent
gel...
...adding
some cotton
over it...
We also applied a second

layer of cotton over the
lower part of the stream.
...and the other end of the Use a brush to add more
upper stream, moistening the depth and sense of
surface with transparent gel. movement.
Place the plastic sheet when still wet,

checking the position.
The joint between the Finally we can apply a thin

waterfall and the water layer of gel to improve the
stream is covered with glossy look and unify the
another layer of cotton. work done.

UPPER WATER STREAM
We mix in a plastic recipient 6ml of resin and 3ml hardener

and once mixed we pour 4mm over the surface.
We apply a thin layer of resin

over the foam and waterfall.
We remiove the masking tape checking any possible leakage.

Everything is perfect. The look is quite realistic but with lack
of movement.
Use a sponge to apply the

transparent gel over the upper
water stream.

Use a flat brush to extend the gel and simulate Repeat the process with the sponge over the rest of the
the movement of the waters course. water. Bubbles can be removed with a round brush but
smaller ones can be a realistic touch.
Here you can se the differebce between

the movement of the water in the upper
are and the lower one. In this area the
movement is more abrupt,

To finish the water we are going to The water gel dyed with white
add some foam in the edges of the paint is applied over the edges to
channel. We mix the gel for effects simulate the foam.
AK8007 with a hint of white acrylic.
We apply the mix using the tip of a
stick in some water edge areas
Here you can see

the work done
with the pick over
the gel. Once dry,
the water is
finished.

GROUND WORK
Once the water is finished it's time to continue with the

ground. First we glue the building.
Chopsticks are very useful to secure in place. A soft pressure is

more than enough. Leave it to dry.
We used a mix of AK8018 We added a small

Dark Earth and AK8027 amount of plaster to
Splatter Dry Mud. The result the mix to increase
is an intermediate brown. the thickness.
Stir well
before
applying.
Use a
spatula to
apply the mix.

...use a brush to extend the mix and reach the edges without soiling the walls. Add the gravel when still wet...
...and then the After a few minutes we can press

larger stones. the surface with a sponge.
As this type of paste is

already colored we just have
to apply some washes with
AK4062 Light Dust and
AK4063 Brown Earth.

Use White Spirit to blend the
tones, first the dark color over
the perimeter and the lighter one
over the rest.
The paste is quite matt We can use AK023 Dark

so we can also use it Mud wash to add more
over the stone structure. depth and contrast.
The larger stones are

painted with grey tones.

VEGETATION
We added the base vegetation first followed by the tall one. Short
grass was glued over a layer of white glue diluted in water, around
50%. Avoid covering the large stones.
Sprinkle the grass over the white glue, Then we can continue with the rest of the plants, short and tall.
blowing after a few minutes. Posidonia plant glued with white glue is used for the bushes.
Apply some washes with

AK026 Dark Slimy Grime
and AK024 Dark Streaking
Grime.

6 different types of plants were used to achieve a realistic look and diversity.
Laser cut plants are very It's advisable to paint the

singular but need a lot leaves while they are still
of work. attached to the carrier.
Then we can glue the leaves

and flowers together with
the help of a twezeers.

Apply a wash with AK300 Dark
Sometimes we need to touch up Yellow and add AK079 Wet effects. The
and repaint some areas. look is quite realistic.
They provide some color variation

and interest to the scene.
We need crushed
foam, Cyanoacrylate
glue and a spatula First apply a drop of
or similar tool. Cyanoacrylate over
the surface.
Sprinkle the
foam over the
Cyanoacrylate trying
to cover the glue
completely.

Gently press the foam
with the fingers and let it
dry. Blow over the surface
to remove the unglued
foam.
We can also apply some Once the actrylic paint is dry

bright colors with acrylic we can proceed with the
lime paint or similar. washes. A mix of enamels
and gloss varnish add the
final touch.
The roof is
finished.

WATER
PONDS AND LAKES
We are going to show you how to

make a small scene with slow water
flowing trough a piece of ground
similar to a small lake or a pond.
We will add two levels, one with

the vegetation and the other with
the water. A piece of foam and a
modelling knife is enough to give
shape to the base.
Two half-bodies of figures The dry area of the scene

are glued on the foam. The is covered with a mix of
position of the figures and AK8018 Dark Earth and
the small concentric waves AK8030 Stirred Earth,
are clue to add the sense of obtaining a dark paste.
movement.
We mix 50% of each reference...

...aplying the paste with a brush covering the shore.
The edges of the scene are made of plastic sheet

or a similar material while the paste is drying.
Then we can use double side tape and

white glue to fix it over the foam.
The external edges are covered with We cover the plastic edges with masking tape, airbrushing a layer
Cyanoacrylate glue and then sanded. of dark brown.

The vegetation is made We cut the base of
with sea balls, using a fine the bristles.
modelling tweezers.
Then we can glue

the whole shore with
white glue avoiding
leaving hole.
The look is very

realistic with its
characteristic and
uneven shape.
It's easy to paint the vegetation with green acrylic paints

using the wet technique.
Once dry we can add a dark wash with AK300.

It's important to also add some levels to We glue the canes
the vegetation. Passion Models has a lot of one by one. The
interesting products such as these canes, shore is being
usually found around the lakes and ponds. brought to life.
Light green acrylic

tones are used to paint
the canes.
We also added some Joefix

references in the intermediate level-
We apply a wash using AK4063 AK079 Wet Effects is applied over some JS
Dust&Dirt Deposits over the shore. Works laser cut jungle plants.

The shore is finished.
We can add some depth painting the bottom

with AK045 DarK Brown and AK026 Green.
The scene is ready to

be filled with water.

Then we have to
The water used is again add the hardener
AK8043 two components and stir carefully
resin, dyed with green to avoid the
and brown acrylic paints. bubbles.
Pour the mix carefully, again to avoid the bubbles.
Leave to dry 24 hours The water lily are made with a punch&die tool and a piece of green
between layers. The last layer cardboard or a piece of paper painted with different shades of
is almost transparent. green. We make a cut in each leave.
We use the handle of a brush to gently

press each leave against a soft surface.
Achieving the correct shape.

We also add some touch-ups with a brush and green tones. The last and upper layer is clear.
With the resin still wet it's

easy to glue the leaves and
vegetation, first the small
leaves closer to the shore.
Then we add the water

lily and rest of the plants.
AK079 Wet Effects is

applied over the leaves.

The shore and
vegetation completely
finished.
The old Verlinden

references are painted
with AK3200 set from
Vietnam era.

We drill a hole and Once all the elements are placed on
insert a metal rod the scene it's time to add the water
in each figure and and transparent gel to achieve the
the water. sense of movement.
We make a mix with AK8002 Transparent Gel and a 10% of water. The surroundings of the first figure is covered with the mix, around 2ms.
Using a fine brush we add

the concentric waves. We
have to work fast as the mix
dries around 10-15 minutes.
We repeat the process

in the second figure.
Do not worry if the
waves overlap one each
other as it hapens in
the real nature.

It's easy to add the water foam
around the figures and the shore
with a mix of Transparent Gel and
AK8010 Snow Microballoons.
Use a fine
brush.
And blend it with

a brush moistened
in water.
Use a toothpick to
add more depth.

Repeat the
process in
the shore.
A second
layer of
Transparent
Gel is
applied to
add more
brightness
and seal the
work.

WetNam
Verlinden 1:35

WATER
snow
SNOW, WATER AND ICE
Water can also appear in the form of ice or snow due

to low temperatures. To represent it in the three states
we will make a small winter diorama.
On the scene we will place a vehicle with winter

camouflage that advances on a path completely muddy
surpassing the defeated troops and captured troops
along the side of the scene on snow and ice.
Also on the same side we will represent a

small stream with icy and crystalline waters
running smoothly downhill.
On the opposite side a small rise

on the road houses the scarce
vegetation surviving the intense
cold, completely covered of
snow and a couple of trees
practically depopulated of
leaves.
We choose to place the elements in a diagonal line, painting the

Once we have the desired dimensions it's time to position of the vehicle and the figures with a red marker. A sharp knife
place the elements and check the composition. is used to carve the place of the main elememts such as the tracks.
The surface was smoothed with We use a modelling blade to finish and detail the
the help of a metallic brush. surface of the scene, removing some foam rests.

AK1032 acrylic white putty is used to cover the surface. This
It's advisable to apply a layer type of acrylic putty does not atack the foam. The white putty is
of any available acrylic putty over the foam surface. harder than the grey one.
AK8023, Neutral Texture is applied over the Small stones were placed over the wet paste,
river with the help of a brush. This plaster pressing gently with the fingers.
helps to seal the foam and to add texture
under the further layer of water and ice.
The small stone are

permanently glued with a
mix of white glue and water.
The bottom of the river was painted with acrylic

paints using the wet technique. We mix some
ocher and brown tones, adding some shadows
with a cold tone, a medium blue.
The upper edge of the shore is painted with pure

white, but with the wet technique it blends and
lost part of its intensity.

The pebbles are individually
painted with acrylics.
The moss is done with a few layers of

AK026 and AK027 Slimy Grime was.
Some places are Let the paste dry during 15

smoothed with a brush minutes and use a piece of
moistened in water sponge to add more texture.
when the paste is still The paste is ready when you
wet, like the holes for check that it's not sticky and
the puddles, doesn't adhere to the sponge.
Once dry the surface will look shiny but so regular and even.
We can add more contrast blending wet acrylics over the
edges of the sinkholes of the puddles.
We can add more depth appyling a wash of AK078,

with a satin finish, and AK066 Dark Wash on the river.
The moss is done with a few

layers of AK026 and AK027 Slimy
Grime was.

We blend the tones
with White Spirit.
The areas that will be without snow are covered with a layer of dry
leaves, glued with a coat of AK118 Gravel&Sand Fixer.
We will add a couple of small

trees in that rear area to add
more height.

HOW TO MAKE
THE BIRCHES
The tree trunks are made
of natural plants and Joefix
vegetation. We will need a
modelling knife and a manual drill.
First we cut the naked branch We used real reference pictures to glue
to simulate the trunks of the the branches using Cyanoacrylate glue.
birches. We will drill some holes
starting from top to bottom, and
with the drill in an angle.
Then we can check the work to see if

we have to make any small touch up or
modification. We will place the trees
in the desired position to see how
they look, helping to see the scene
composition.
The characteristic
stains and spots
We used grey and white of these trees
acrylic paints, adding are imitated
brown for the shadows with a mix of
using the wet technique black, brown
and water. and grey acrylics.

We add some
shadows on
the trunk base,
randomly.
Then with the same diluted

mix we add thin cross lines
along the trunk.
The small sections of crust

are painted with white.
A grey filter is applied blending

with White Spirit.
A second green
filter is applied
over the base
to imitate the
moss and the
humidity.
The base of the trunk is finished.
Some laser cut Kamizukuri leaves painted in ocher tones are glued with ciano. Appyling a AK076 brown filter over the leaves.

You do not need to add
too many leaves to depict
an Autumn tree.
We will fix the trees
with white glue.
The trees glued in place.
Then we glue some Posidonia We finally added a AK066

over the leaves. Brown wash to finish this part
of the scene.

HOW TO MAKE
WATER
First we have to fix
some modelling masking
tape around the edges.
We pour the desired amount of Then we add the hardener (component 2),
resin (component 1) dyed with stirring well to remove the bubbles.
brown and green enamel paints.
Pour the mix over the After 24 hours the mix is dry and we
riverbed. Try to add layer can add the water foam with AK8002
around 4-5mm thick. Water Gel Transparent uisng a brush.
The gel is thick so we can work it perfectly with

a angle brush. The mix keeps the shape.

Applying diagonal and irregular movements with the diagonal Once dry the gel
brush we can easily obtain the sense of movement of the water. is absolutely transparent so we can
apply more layers if needed.
We make a mix with a 50% ratio of AK8007 Water

Gel Effects and AK8010 Snow Microballons to depict It's better to use a tooth pick to apply
the water foam around some pebbles. the mix over one side of the pebbles.
The mix is dry in around 30 minutes. The crests are done with a toothpick. AK8002 is then applied to add brightness to the water foam.

MAKING
HARD SNOW The first layer of snow
applied over the scene
will be the hard snow
type. We prepare a
mix of AK8009 Snow
Sprinkles and AK8010
Snow Microballoons in
equal parts.
We add a few drops of

AK8008 Still Water.
The sides of the road

and close to the
vegetation are covered
with this mix.
The hard snow is usually caked so Overall look of the first

we can blend the edges and some layer of snow.
areas with Still Water.

MAKING
SOFT SNOW
We will use Ak8011 Snow

to depict the fresh and
foamy layer of snow fallen
over the previous layer. We
have to be sure that the
previous layer is fully dry.
We use a soft and round
brush working in small
sections of 2-3cms, adding
a thick coat.
Still Water is used

to blend and soften
the edges.
Then we finally Overall look of the

add a layer of soft snow.
AK8010 Snow
Microballoons to
achieve the final
foamy look.

FROSTED
VEGETATION
We can represent the thin

layer of ice and frost over
the vegetation easily, in just
two steps. The first step is to
cover, partially, the top of the
vegetation with the same mix
used to make the hard snow.
In the second step

we will cover with a
layer of Still Water the
same area covered
with the hard snow,
adding brightness
and more bulk.
Overall look
of the frosted
vegetation.

MAKING THE ICE
IN THE RIVER
The ice plates that usually appears close to a river shore due the
low temperatures can easily be made using a mix of Still Water
and glass microballoons. We will place a piece of plastic sheet,
the one used to preserve the food, keeping the surface uptight.
Pour a small amount of Still Water.
Pour some glass microballoons when

the Still Water is still fresh.
Use a spatula to gently press the

mix, expanding the mix a little
bit. This step helps to achieve the
uneven surface of the ice plates.
Once dry we can remove the

sheets from the plastic film,
using the ones
we prefer. You
can use your
fingers and scissors to
cut into shape.
Apply a layer of white

glue over the flat side...

The next layer of
ice is submerged
in Still Water and
...and place it in the desired area placed over the
to achieve the first layer of ice. previous layer.
The ice looks like the real one The holes and gaps between the ice plates and the shore are
made of different layers. covered with AK8009 Snow Sprinkles and a soft brush.
Then, we can apply a layer of Still Finally, the fresh snow close to the rocks are made pouring
Water blending the previous snow. Snow Microballoons over the wet Still Water.
Using different
medioums we
obtained a very rich
look over the ice.

MAKING
THE PUDDLES
The wet ground and the puddles are made with a mix of Still Water
and brown and ocher acrylic paints. The tones will depend on the
idea we bear in mind- We use a soft brush to apply the dyed Still
Water, mainly on the cloven areas of the road.
The we have to blend the mix with the surface trying to drag
the mix outside the edges of the puddles. When a vehicle
passes over a puddle in a wet ground the water tends to soak
the surroundings.
We have to work in layers little by little, to achieve the correct look

avoiding to make a very wet or uniform ground.
The look is very realistic

and easy to do.

FOOTPRINTS
The path where the figures walk are
covered with snow, so first we place
the figures adding a metallic rod to
AND MARKS the surface. This type of trampled

snow can be done with AK8009
Snow Sprinkles as it has a greyish
OVER THE SNOW tone and looks like hard snow.
We apply a small amount of this

product in the edges and sides of
the path: We have to wait to go
ahead with the next step.
We have to integrate
the figures with
the ground so
it's a nice idea
to add traces
of snow over It's better to apply
the boots and the mix with
clothes. A mix a toothpick,
of AK8008 Still adding some
Water, AK8009 brightness with
Snow Sprinkles Still Water,
and AK8010 Snow Gloss Varnish
Microballoons is a good or Wet Effects.
match.
We can use an old Finally, add a pin wash

boot or a modelling with a mix of Still
resin aftetmarket to Water and brown
add the footprints. acrylics to depict
We have to wait the dirt inside the
until the mix is half footprints.
dry, trying from
time to time and the
footprint become clear.
We can also add a drop

of Still Water inside the
footprints if they do not
look glossy.

TRACES OF THE VEHICLES
OVER THE SNOW
The traces of the

vehicles can be easily
done with AK8009
Snow Spinkles applied
over the surface
and adding grooves
with a soft brush in
the direction of the
movement.
Try to add more snow

between the grooves
repeating the process
until you are satisfied.
Finally, we can add

some dirt in the
grooves, the same way
as we did with the
footprints,
We can also add a layer of Still

Water diluted with water to
increase the gloss look.

Snowscape
Tamiya – Dragon - Miniart 1:35

WATER
SNOW
SNOW AND MUD
We are going to depict a dirty road

that was covered with snow and
now it's melting but still has remains
of dirty snow. We will use a piece of
10x8.5cms
Draw a line over the piece of

foam to depict a slope and the
road. The upper part will be
covered with snow while the rest
will be wet and with the tread of
the vehicles over the snow.
Use a modeling knife to carefully cut and carve the foam.
Once the basic slope is ready we

can use a metallic brush to add
more texture.

We can also use a wegde of foam to add more height. Use The base is ready to receive a layer of AK8016
white glue to fix it. Then use a modeling knife and a piece of Wet Ground. Use a hard bristle brush.
sandpaper to finish the basic volumes.
We lay the paste along

the road trying to create
a 3-4mm thick layer.
The upper part is just "painted" with the paste as it will be

covered with snow. We can now apply a second layer over
the road, softening with water.
See the difference between the two textures.

HARD SNOW
Once the base is dry we can apply the snow in several

steps. We need to depict two types of snow, hard on
the road and soft on the slope. The hard snow is made
with AK8008 Still Water, AK8009 Snow Sprinkles and
AK8011 Snow Microballoons.
Use a metallic well to deposit Snow Sprinkles, adding

Snow Microballoons to achieve the white look of the
snow. Also add a few drops of Still Water.
Apply the mix over the side of the road trying not to cover the
treads of the vehicles. Also cover the slope with a thin layer.
Use a brush
moistened in Still
Water to blend
the egdes of
the snow. This
will help to
achieve the
characteristic
look of the
melted snow.

SOFT SNOW
Once the previous layer is dry and covered with hard

and melted snow we can continue with the process.
The goal it's to add more depth and texture.
We will try to imitate the freshly fallen snow

using AK8011 Snow and AK8010 Snow
Microballoons. We will cover the surface
completely with the paste without worrying
about the relief.
Blend the edges with a brush moistened in water.
Finally sprinkle Snow Miocroballoons

over the wet surface. The
microballoons will adhere. Repeat
the process over small areas on the
road achieving an uneven and
natural look of snow.
Here you can see

the look of the
soft snow.

DIRTY SNOW
First we touch up the edges of the snow

with AK777 and Snow Microballoons.
Use a metallic well to mix both products

until obtaining a light texture.
Apply this mix on the edges This mix helps to add

of the snow and the road, the glossy look of the
blending with water. melted snow.
We can use acrylics to add the dirt over the tread

of the vehicles. AK702 Light Brown, AK132 Dark
Olive and AK777 Gloss Varnish.

We can use a metallic palette or a pill box. Mix the acrylics and apply Use a flat brush and a toothpick
pin washes on the edges. The effect must be soft so first check it to splash the surface.
outside the ground.
Add more gloss varnish to the mix and apply it over

the edges of the areas covered with snow.
We decided to add some milestones

bars and a protective mesh.
Use a manual drill to perforate

the surface and white glue.

We just need to drill a hole These accessories were also
in the base with a needle. integrated with the rest of the
ground with a mix of gloss
varnish and microballoons.
This step is always important in all the

elements included in the scene.
We can also use this mix to touch up

some areas of the ground.
The sides of the foam base are painted in black, very carefully.

WATER
ICE PLATES
Water can also be found

frosted as ice. We are
going to show you how
to make a simple base,
a surface covered with
ice, a lake, a river or the
sea. We will use a piece
of foam with 10x8,5 cms
dimensions and using
AK8012 two components
resin.
Basic materials. Foam,

hard cardboard, a
modelling blade and a
metallic ruler.
First we have to make a suitable box to pour We cut a piece of hard cardboard of the same
the resin inside and obtain the ice plate. dimensions as the foam...
...trying to fit perfectly. Our box and mould is ready to be built.

The sides are glued with We have the box
gel Cyanoacrylate glue, almost ready
The gaps are filled with ABT115 Masking Fluid and a

toothpick, avoiding any further spillage of the resin.
We have to mix the desired amount following the

manufacturer instructions. 4 resin part and 1 hardener part,
stirring well to eliminate the bubbles.
Pour the mix into the box, in an

uniform layer of 3-4 mm thick.
Stir the mix into the box and

let it dry during 24 hours.

Once the resin is dry we A sanding disc and a mini
can unmold with care. drill is used to polish the
edges and the surface. It's
advisable to use polishing
compound paste.
Then we have to airbrush several

blue and white tones over a piece of
plastic, adding the colour and depth.
We can fix a layer of adhesive

plastic film in one side to avoid
that the small pieces of resin can
fall once we break the piece.
Then we can use our

fingers to carefully
break the resin into
pieces. We can use
different pieces in our
project.

The ice plate is broken We will use white glue
and ready to be placed. dissolved in water to
fix the pieces over the
painted surface.
Use a toothpick to
apply the white glue
in each piece of ice,
glueying like a puzzle.
Let the white glue dry.
Be carefull. Some of the pieces

can have sharp edges.
The look of the ice is subtly modified with

a wash of AK2078 White Panelier. Use it
straight from the jar, blending over the
surface with ABT111 thinner, specially over
the cracks.

Once dry we can glue two small The snow is a mix of AK8011
pieces of white foam in the Snow (soft snow) and
corners. They will be covered AK8009 Snow Sprinkles
with snow. Use white glue to fix (hard snow) in equal parts.
the foam.
We will cover the foam with

the mix. Do not worry about
the look.
Then with a mix

of white glue and
water (50%) we can
soften the edges of
the snow.
Finally the snow

powder is made
pouring AK8010
Snow Microballons
over the previous
layer when is still
wet. We can add
water to blend the
edges.

water
BEACH WITH WAVES
It's easy to depict a beach with white sand, but if we want to add the sea and the waves we have to increase our
efforts and chose the correct materials and good viasual references.
The first step it’s to

cut a piece of foam of
10x8.5cms. Then, using
a marker, we paint the
surface covered with
water, carving this area
with a modelling blade,
adding a light slope. The
area was sanded with
a 400 grain sanding
sponge.
Then we can cover the surface Using a wet brush we

with AK8019 Beach Sand. The can blend the edges,
paste is applied with a brush and a achieving a smooth and
modelling spatula trying to obtain even layer.
an homogeneous layer with the
same thickness.
Then with a brush moistened in water

we can add the grooves and marks of
the water and waves over the sand. We
can add some pebbles when still wet.

Overall look
of the beach
with the
small pebbles
added.
The wet area is done

painting the sand
with ocher and brown
acrylic tones using the wet
technique. The highlights are
done with white. We have to
start with the darker tones, adding
more white to the mix as we are
painting the upper areas where it's less wet. The groundwork has
to be wet to use this technique and blend the tones.
Once dry we can see the color

differences and transitions.
We are going to use AK8008 Still Water to add the effect

of sand bathed by the sea…
…using a brush to stretch it

like a varnish.
Let it dry and

cover the
edges with
masking tape.

Be sure that the masking AK8043 two part resin
tape is fully glued with no is used following the
gaps. A good sanding is mafuacturer’s instructions.
really important. 2:1 ratio.
Dye the mix with AK4004 blue, AK RLM82

green and white acrylics. It’s important
to make several mixes until you obtain the
desired tone, a turquoise green. Apply it in
several thin layers.
Use a small painting well, adding

the resin little by little.
Use a small painting Use a toothpick and store the base

well, adding the into a box or a cabinet to avoid the
resin little by little. dust particles.
The further layer is more

transparent and has to
cover a smaller surface to
obtain the depth.

The last layer is even AK8002 Water Gel Transparent
more transparent, is used to make the waves effect.
covering a much more Apply the first layer with the help
smaller surface. Try to of a brush over the remote waves
avoid any spillage in the from the shore. Then apply a
edges. Let it dry at least second layer close to the shore.
during 24 hours Use the brush to add some relief.
Blend the rear part of the wave

while the front part is still drying.
Use water to blend the effect and
a brush to imitate the seafoam.
After 10-15 minutes we use Let it dry and remove the

the airbrush to blow air at masking tape.
low pressure from the rear,
obtaining the edges of the
waves. Do it carefully as
you could remove the gel.
Once dry the gel becomes

completely transparent and with
relief. The sea foam is done with a
mix of AK8007 Water Gel Effects
and acrylic white paint.

Place the white paint Apply the mix over the
and the gel in paint wells edges using a brush.
separately. Then mix it
adding some water.
Then using the same mix and a piece of sponge we

gently press and blending the edges and crests of the
waves. The idea is to cover with sea foam the wave
partially. We repeat the process in each wave.
Once dry we have to add a layer of gel as the matt white paint
Let it dry. tends to remove the glossy look of the waves…
…applying the mix over the Finally, we added some

rear part of the wave. Add vegetation, glueing
a small amount of water with white glue.
to blend the sea foam and
achieve the desired effect.
We can also use more Gel
to imitate the sea foam in
the front waves.

SPECIAL EFFECTS Road sinkhole
Puddles
Wet and cracked riverbed
When making a terrain base, we are often called upon to replicate a Many of the special effects we see in dioramas and vignettes are
wide variety of effects that we observe in the real world, in order to related to water, either as liquid water, or in the form of ice and
give our piece the desired level of realism. snow. This is because water is one of the most common elements in
the natural world.
These effects and details are often abandoned after an unsuccessful
test, or worse, avoided before any tests or attempts have even been Although their representation is neither simple nor unique, we try to
made out of fear of a bad result. imitate certain effects that can be very interesting for their simplicity.
There are many products on the market to imitate water in its many
Even when following the techniques of others with more experience forms and states. Some of them are:
and practice (in terms of hours spent) good results are not guaranteed.
One useful approach is to follow a "recipe" used successfully by
someone whose work you like, practicing and refining your own skills
until you get results that you are happy with.

SPECIAL EFFECTS
ROADS SINKHOLE
SINKHOLE WITH WATER
We have to finish the groundwork before adding

the water into the sinkhole. Once done we can
pour the resin into the sinkhole.
We used a piece of 10x8.5cm foam. We glued a

sheet of cork adding a layer of AK8013 Asphalt
terrains over it. A small part was removed and
filled with AK8021 dry Groundwork. Some dry
vegetation was also added.
The water is done with two component resin AK8043 dyed with We mix 2ml of resin (component 1) and 1ml hardener
AK3054 and AK3082 acrylic paints. We also need a small jar. (component 2), as we just need a small amount. Use both
syringes supplied by the manufacturer. We can use alcohol to
clean the syringes.
Stir well to remove the bubbles and to obtain an uniform mix.

Use a small plastic glass. Pour the desired amount of resin into the hole.

It's easy to apply using Let it dry during at least 24 hours and use a neddle to
a wood stick. remove the bubbles if necessary.

SPECIAL EFFECTS
PUDDLES
SHALLOW PUDDLES OVER GROUND
As in previous works, first we have to prepare a small

groundwork adding indentations and grooves.
AK8016 paste was Let it dry around

applied over a small 30-40 minutes and
piece of foam carved then move the
with a modelling wheel with your
blade. This paste is fingers over the
specially designed to surface.
depict wet and muddy
grounds. We add wheel
tracks with a spare
wheel.
The indentations over Once dry we

the foam as well as the can add the
grooves made with the dyed Still Water
wheel are perfect to AK8008.
add small amounts of
water inside.
Dye the water with a mix of

AK3075 US Filed Drab and
AK3091 WWI German Uniform.

Add a small amount of water... ...and a few drops of Still Water.
Use a fine brush to apply the mix, Stretch the water

avoiding the bubbles. outside the puddles
with the same brush,
obtaining a realistic
and natural look of a
wet and muddy road.
You can use water to
blend the edges.

SPECIAL EFFECTS
PUDDLES
MUDDY ROAD WITH WATER
As in previous sections, the first part of the work will consist of Next with a scraper or metal brush, we can eliminate the strokes
making the ground and preparing it conveniently. We have used a of the blade and get the desired texture.
piece of foam of 10x8.5 cm approximately. We will represent the area traveled by the vehicles on the front of
The relief was achieved making cuts with the blade trying to imitate the foam and on the opposite corner an area with footprints used
the wheels of the vehicles. by pedestrians.
We will apply a layer of AK8017 paste to imitate the muddy

ground, directly from the jar, with a brush of hard bristles
extending it over the entire base. The area used by pedestrians is
filled with more amount of paste to later make the footsteps.
With a fine brush we will imitate the grooves left by the vehicles.
We will clean the brush with water. After letting dry
about 15 minutes we will touch-up the high areas of the terrain
(ridges) to avoid the rounded shapes of the paste. For this we will
use a cleaning pad. Next we will again touch-up the grooves with
the brush to obtain more depth. To make the footsteps we will
use some old boots. We must wait for until the terrain is much
dryer. Do some test to check the consistency of the paste.
Once the ground has completely dried, we will add the

chosen accessories, in this case a small fence to divide the road,
an old newspaper and some grass in the area
that the footsteps appear. Finally we can give a light wash to the
ground to add depth with oil Abt.005 Smoke diluted with
Abt.111 Odourless Thinner.
Puddles were made with AK8028. It has a greenish look. It's developed
to fill small and shallow puddles. Apply it in layers.
Use an old brush to apply this product. We can also dilute it with water
as it's an acrylic based product. We will also add a small amount over
the ridges trying not to cover all the surface, keeping a high contrast
between dry and wet areas.
Leave this layer to dry and

Mask the edges with check the results, before
masking tape. adding the second layer.

The second layer of water The color changes
is dyed with AK133 Olive as we are adding
Dark Base and AK724 AK8028 product
dry Light Mud acrylics. in a small well.
This will help to add
more contrast and the
sense of dirty water.
Again use a brush to apply the Use a needle to remove the After a couple of hours the product is dry
product inside and over the bubbles when still wet. and we remove the masking tape. Sand the
edges of the ground, obtaining edges with a block of sandpaper.
chromatic variety.

SPECIAL EFFECTS
WET AND CRACKED RIVERBED
Another effect of water on the ground

is the typical cracked look that we
can observe when the water dries, or
disappears due to heat or evaporation.
This cracked effect is easily

reproducible with a new series of
products for dioramas that AK just
developed under the name of "Crackle
effects" and in the form of paste.
To get the effect we should just

spread the paste and wait for it to
dry. Depending on the thickness, the
applied layer will be the size of a small
square and looking like a very porous
surface.
We are going to make a small groundwork using references AK8018 for dark terrains and AK8032 for dark and cracked
ones. We can combine them or use them separately. A cracked but still wet riverbed it's a nice example of this effect.
This way we can add moss over the tree trunk.
A piece of 10x8.5 The modeling

cms foam was paste is kneaded
carved to reproduce with the fingers.
the riverbed and
the shore. The base
will be covered with
modeling paste as
this stuff works
better on porous
surfaces,
Once ready we
can glue it with
white glue.

Place the paste over the foam and press The excess is removed
it gently till it covers the whole surface. with a spatula.
Use white glue dissolved with water and a soft brush to

smooth the paste, achieving a surface perfect for the crakle
effects.
The riverbed is smoothed with the help of a spoon or similar tool,

cutting the excess with the spatula.
Use a scouring pad to add more relief to the ground when still wet.

We can combine AK8018 to add an alevation,
and AK8032 on the riverbed.
The base is painted

with AK125 to avoid
to see the white paste Once the acrylic
through the crackle paint is dry we
effects. Cover the can apply the
whole surface with crackle effect
the acrylic paint. AK8032.
Apply the paste just The different

over the riverbed thickness of the
with a soft brush, layer doesn't matter
carefully, and trying as this will help to
to spread an even increase the crackle
layer. effect and the result.
Once dry the paste is now a

cracked surface. Then we can
apply the Dark AK8018 paste
over the slope and the shore.

Spread the paste with a soft brush and water.
Note the effect A natural root is perfect to depict

achieved with the paste a fallen tree. We use the same
and how it varies from modeling paste to fix it over the
one place to another. corner of the slope, in a diagonal
Much more realistic. line from the riverbed.
The tree is painted with acrylics

using the wet technique.
Abteilung oils such as 050 Olive Green We first apply

and 245 Dark Brown; and AK080 Kursk the earth tones
Earth and AK094 Streaking Interiors over the slope,
enamels thinned with Odourless or White blending them
Spirit are used to paint the ground. straight over it.

Green and brown oils are applied over the
shore, depicting the moss.
This kind of crackle paste can be

painted with a sort of different ways
such as with filters, washes, patinas
and oils without loosing the effect.
Once dry the surface tends to be
attenuated so it's better to overstate
the paint job.
AK026 and 027 are used to depict the

moss and greenish color of the tree trunk.
Apply them directly and blend with a brush
moistened in White Spirit.

Crushed moss and static grass are used
to make the vegetation, glued with white
glue dissolved in water.
Spread the mix with a brush and then

sprinkle the crushed moss over it. It's
advisable to start to work with the short
vegetation first.
Apply more white glue and

grass in specific areas.

W apply the same green colors used on
the ground blending with Odourless
thinner or White Spirit. Let it dry.
The moss over the tree trunk has been simulated

with crushed foam glued with white glue. Then we
start to glue the tall grass and branches.
The tall grass placed on the shore is glued in

its base and cut with a scissors.
Wet the base with

pure white glue.

We use a toothpick to
open the grass and give
shape to the upper part.
We fill the different

levels with all types
of vegetation around
the riverbed. It's so
important to add
variety.
AK8028 Puddles is used

to imitate the wet and
humidity.
This stuff has a

brownish tone, very
interesting and useful.
Apply it with a brush,
in several layers.

This product is thick so The more layers we add
we need to use a brush the more depth and
to apply it correctly texture we achieve.
among the vegetation.
Blend the edges with water

as it's an acrylic product.

The most wide variety
of products for DIORAMAS
COMPOSITION CONSTRUCTION ASSEMBLY PAINTING WEATHERING
STEP BY STEP GUIDE BY THE MASTER MODELER
Get inside the most complete branch of modeling by discovering latest techniques, materials, tricks, and lots of ideas
and inspiration contained in this book. Essential for any modeler.
www.ak-interactive.com
Phone: (+34) 941 44 52 28
info@ak-interactive.com

Ak F.A.Q. Dioramas Water Ice&snow

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COMPOSITION CONSTRUCTION ASSEMBLY PAINTING WEATHERING

STEP BY STEP GUIDE BY THE MASTER MODELER

After a long time of study,

Produced and distributed by

Rubén González Hernández

Dedicated to who has been and will always be part of my family.

To all of you, and to all of them, thank you.

114 II. SPECIAL EFFECTS

This book brings closure to an important chapter in modeling our

FAQ DIORAMAS 1.2 / 7

This is an effort that many modelers do not consider but that

8 / FAQ DIORAMAS 1.2

VARNISHES AND MEDIUMS GELS AND SILICONES

FAQ DIORAMAS 1.2 / 9

We are going to create a simple scene to depict flowing water

We will use a branch/tree to add more height to the scene. The

The main elements of the

The we will start to

10 / FAQ DIORAMAS 1.2

Try to make a hole of the same diameter of the branches,

The selected branches will be carefully glued using

We must add roots

FAQ DIORAMAS 1.2 / 11

The tree trunk is painted in brown

We can finally apply a

Some parts were

12 / FAQ DIORAMAS 1.2

The interior of the turret was

We repeat the process over the tree

FAQ DIORAMAS 1.2 / 13

We apply again a Dark Wash with AK045 to

Time to add the tall grass of the bottom. We bend the

Once the turret is fixed we can add the

14 / FAQ DIORAMAS 1.2

We add more sea ball

We use the enamel washes to add

The plants are all glued

FAQ DIORAMAS 1.2 / 15

16 / FAQ DIORAMAS 1.2

We decided to paint and add a couple

FAQ DIORAMAS 1.2 / 17

Double side tape and Blu-tack is

We used two components transparent still water,

We can dye each layer with enamel green tones. We have

Then we can add the amount of component 2,

18 / FAQ DIORAMAS 1.2

The last layer is almost

We prepare a small amount

Covering the whole

FAQ DIORAMAS 1.2 / 19

Once dry you can see the

The water foam around

20 / FAQ DIORAMAS 1.2

FAQ DIORAMAS 1.2 / 21

22 / FAQ DIORAMAS 1.2

Moving forward with the water we are going to make

While the representation of water is not complicated,

As we will see, the order to perform the different

Foam is the main element to build our

The sanding of the pieces is as important as the

We check the fitting and

24 / FAQ DIORAMAS 1.2

If we need to improve the resistance of