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Bolt Action*Bolt Action Rifles*

By Hawk
This month we are going to cover the various high powered bolt action rifles
that are available for the survivalist. These weapons are necessary and useful
tools that provide food for the family as well as having the secondary use of
long range precision defensive fire. Consideration for the selection of a bolt
action rifle depends on its purposed use and the game to be hunted with it. For
instance any weapon that is capable of killing a deer is also capable of killing
any other animal of similar weight, such as a man.

The caliber of the rifles used by survivalist should be of a common caliber.

This is especially true if you do not reload your own ammunition, and you
should. At the very least all survivalist should have the capability to reload
all the calibers of your defensive weapons as well as your main hunting rifle.
Some calibers of weapons use brass of a comon head size that can be modified for
use in other caliber rifles. For instance 30-06 brass can be modified to make
the following calibers: 35 Whelen (Necked up 30-06 case for a heavy .35 caliber
bullet, good for bear and elk), .270 Winchester (Necked down for Deer, Antelope,
and great sniper round), 25-06 (For Deer and long range heavy varmit). Similarly
the 7.62/.308 can be used for .358 Winchester, .243 Winchester, 7mm-08, and even
the .45 Automatic pistol cartridge. So as you can see the selection of your
calibers used can be vital to your re-supply for your other weapons.

For rifles you may want to consider the following.

The Remington Model 700 series of weapons is probably the most accurate and the
one most commonly found in the survivalist battery. It has a well deserved
reputation for accuracy and probably the best trigger in any factory rifle. The
Remington 700 series of rifles comes in many different variations, some of which
would be better for survivalist than others. Remington manufactures two
specialty sniper rifles, one for the US Army and another one for Police
Departments. While the Police version can be purchased by civilians, it can be
quite expensive. This particular model can be duplicated by selecting a
synthetic stocked varmit model. They have the same metal bedding block fixed
inside the stock, and this is the heart of obtaining the utmost accuacy possible
for a lot less money. When selecting a Remington rifle for survival use the
synthetic stock is the one to be preferred. The only short coming that the
Remington has is the C shaped extractor in the bolt face. This extractor while
fine in the sport hunting arena, could be a diasaster waiting to happen in
combat. To solve this potential problem several gunsmiths around the country fit
the Remington bolt with either the SAKO or the M-16 extractor. If you are
considering using the Remington, then I consider this modification a MUST!!!!!

The second bolt action we need to consider is the Winchester Model 70. This
weapon, like the Remington, comes in many variations. I consider the pre-1964
models the cream of the crop. The second preference is the recent models that
have gone back to using the controlled feed system and the Mauser style claw
extractor. The models made between 1964 and 1996 are the least desireable, but
are still safe, serviceable weapons. Like the Remingtons, the synthetic stock
models are to be preferred to the wood stock models. The aluminum floor plates
should also be replaced with the one that is standard with the magnum models.
This floor plate can be ordered from Brownells and from the Winchester factory.

The third model we need to consider is the Ruger Model 77. I personnally like
the modified Mauser style action and claw extractor. I also like the built in
scope bases and Leonard Brownell designed stock. Now as to the down side. The
trigger pull on every one I have ever tried was like pulling teeth. In other
words a 'long, hard pull'. The older models have after market triggers
available. Further when shooting a Ruger long gun, it appears you either get a
prince or a pig. This stems from the fact that for years Ruger rifle barrels
were sub-contracted out. There is no way to tell just by looking at them. They

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have to be shot from a good benchrest to tell the shooters from the clubs. I
have shot two identical Rugers in the same caliber that were only 20 serial
numbers apart on the same day. One was a tack driver, while the other could not
hit a bull in the butt from 50 feet.

The last model we will look at this month is the Savage Model 110. This weapon
is probably the one that gives the most value for the money for the average
survivalist. While the trigger is rough, it is serviceable. Accuracy will also
stay in the same range as the Winchester and the Ruger. The one thing I consider
bad with the Savage is that I consider it "Butt Ugly". Appearance aside, the
weapon is plain, but functional.

The above weapons are all serviceable. They would all profit from using
synthetic stocks. These stocks preclude the loss of accuracy from stock warpage
from moisture as happens to wood stocks. If you use a wood stock I suggest
applying a good sealing coat of polyeurathane, followed by a good coat of
Johnson's Paste Wax for hard wood floors. This is especially important in the
barrel channel. With the exception of the Remington, all of the above weapons
would also benefit from a good aftermarket trigger from either Timney or
Dayton-Traister.

While most sniper type rifles are chambered in 7.62/.308, 30-06, or .300
Winchester Magnum, other calibers could also be considered. My personal favorite
is the .270 Winchester. A cheap and light alternative to the .50 caliber is the
.375 H&H magnum improved. Don't get me wrong, this weapon is not cheap. Just not
as expensive or as heavy as the .50 caliber. This round allows for a heavy
hitting, 300 plus grain bullet that is accurate to 1200 yards. This round can be
used comfortably in a weapon weighing less than 20 pounds, including scope.

While on the subject of scopes, let me say this, "Cheap scopes are no bargain".
It is better to put your money in good glass and a less expensive gun than the
other way around. Most people do not know that the various scope manufactures
have different grades of scopes in the same line. For example while the Bausch
and Lomb scopes are superior, their Bushnell line contain both good and bad
scopes. If you look at Tasco scopes be sure you stay with their World Class
models and above. In Leupold scopes use either, but the Vari-xIII's are
preferred over the Vari-xII's.

The general rule of thumb of 'all' the professional snipers I know is "Spend as
much or more on your glass as your rifle". The book on sniping by John Plaster
has a very good chart on which scopes are acceptable for sniping, and if it is
good enough for sniping it will also bring home the bacon.
Hawk

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