Professional Documents
Culture Documents
DESIGNER
Michael Storer
storerm@storerboatplans.com
www.storerboatplans.com
TABLE OF CONTENTS
LICENCE – QUICK CANOE 155...........................................................................................4
Internet information............................................................................................................4
Thanks...............................................................................................................................4
FOR LICENSED KITS IN THE USA......................................................................................5
QUICK CANOES (VERSION K NF) – OVERVIEW...............................................................6
General Comments............................................................................................................6
Safety.................................................................................................................................7
Free Paddle Plans and other links.....................................................................................7
IMPORTANT COMMENTS ON MATERIALS........................................................................8
TIMBER – METRIC AND IMPERIAL LISTS..........................................................................9
EPOXY AND GLUING STUFF.............................................................................................10
OTHER BITS AND PIECES.................................................................................................10
TOOLS..................................................................................................................................11
BUILDING THE QUICK CANOE HULL...............................................................................12
Marking out the plywood..................................................................................................12
Cutting out the panels......................................................................................................13
Join the panel to length....................................................................................................13
Make the Skeg Doubler...................................................................................................14
Option – Epoxy Coating the hull interior..........................................................................15
Gluing up the long bits with scarfs...................................................................................15
METHOD – DUCT TAPE AND ASSEMBLY METHOD........................................................17
Setting up the side panels...............................................................................................17
Attaching the bottom........................................................................................................18
Turn upright and prepare for filleting/taping.....................................................................19
Make sure the hull is untwisted.......................................................................................20
Hull Interior – Filleting is a better choice than glass taping for some..............................20
Alternative 1 - Filleting method........................................................................................21
Alternative 2 - Glass taping method................................................................................22
Turning the Boat over and preparing for glass taping.....................................................23
Glass Taping the outside of the chine..............................................................................24
FITTING THE TIMBERWORK.............................................................................................24
Fitting the Gunwales........................................................................................................24
Glue in the Skeg Doublers...............................................................................................25
Fitting the skegs and keel................................................................................................25
Fitting the Inwales, Knees and Centre Spreader.............................................................26
Fitting the seats................................................................................................................28
Filling holes and getting ready for painting or varnishing................................................29
PAINTING AND VARNISHING.............................................................................................29
Paint and Varnish Maintenance.......................................................................................30
Tuning the skeg/keel depth..............................................................................................30
APPENDICES......................................................................................................................31
Cordless Battery Drill with Clutch....................................................................................31
Wet-on-Wet Coating and Dewaxing Cured Epoxy...........................................................31
One Hit coating and gluing..............................................................................................32
Precoating Plywood Panels before Assembly.................................................................32
Building strong lightweight boats - a note on the use of epoxy.......................................33
Fibreglass taping method................................................................................................33
A SELECTION OF MICHAEL STORER WOODEN BOAT PLANS.....................................36
It is usual for plans to be non-returnable and non-refundable as it is too easy for them to
be copied, then returned. If you want to ask, do so, but I will usually refuse.
The purchaser must decide whether the craft will fit their purposes. I have offered a
description of the craft and its building which is offered in good faith.
Remember it is the skipper that decides the use of the boat on a given day. Use the boat
in conditions you are comfortable with and gradually, as you get to know her, push that
envelope.
Of course, wear appropriate clothing, carry the appropriate safety gear and be clear on its
correct use.
Internet information
There is some information available on the internet.
You can always check my website http://www.storerboatplans.com/wp.
Also my forum has information about the development of the Quick Canoes and current
and past builds of the different boats http://tinyurl.com/d9u9by
There is generally a list of information on that page for any additional information that has
been put on the website. Also on the hompage there is a link to my BLOG which is where
I put updates to plans or comments and other useful material. And some nice free paddle
plans.
These are the timber pieces with part numbers and quantities. Note that inwales,
gunwales and the keel batten are made up of three pieces each. The scarf joins have
been cut already and a piece of Aluminium angle is provided to help align them when they
are glued to length. The method is explained later.
General Comments
One of the by-products of the trip to the USA was that I now
know that canoeing and kayaking is waaaay more fun than I
thought.
I sort of imagined it would be tedious compared to sailing. And
it kinda is, but your mind adapts and you are off and going very
nicely indeed. The thing I liked was just setting the mind to the
task and keeping going, particularly when there are
headwinds.
I also liked the independence of camping particularly with the
days of having to carry lots of water being over with the gravity
filters available these days. Pardon the pic of the $25 tent
bought in America!
Because my income is so little I have pared things to the bone.
I find cheap places to rent, have very few belongings and certainly don't have a car. I
remember doing the calcs about 15 years back and finding that a car would cost me an
extra $70/week if everything was counted. I doubt it is any
cheaper now.
So how do I mix my interest in canoe touring and nice boats
with not having a car?
I started to think in terms of “disposable” boats. Building really
cheap and fast from the cheapest materials available. Either
buying them on location at the start or having them shipped
there - maybe with bits cut out in advance. Not so much
money tied up that you are worried about giving away the boat
at trip end.
Assemble the boat over a couple of days, a quick coat of paint,
throw it in the adjacent body of water and go. Up the Murray
Darling or any other of the river systems in OZ.
At the end the boat just gets given away. But how does this influence the design?
We all know that even a little classic canoe like Rushton's Wee
Lassie will outperform and out handle almost any of the
fibreglass production canoes. When the wind and waves come
up it goes straight and true, rather than wandering about like a
GRP bathtub.
The difference is chalk and cheese. The reason is the hollow in
the ends of the wee lassie - which provides a fin at the front
and back of the boat. Forget about trying to make a boat track
with an inch deep keelson - it is these fins, appropriately
placed at the ends of the boat where they have real grip that
do the work. The picture right shows what I am talking about.
Safety
These boats are not drawn with Buoyancy tanks. The hulls are wooden so will float, but
for most situations I would recommend fitting buoyancy tanks and enlarging the knees to
make end decks. Experienced users will know whether the conditions which they will use
the boats in will be OK without the buoyancy tanks. But less experienced people should
either use the boats very conservatively or fit buoyancy – either foam, canoe airbags or an
enclosed tank in the ends of the boat. If you do an enclosed tank – please don't put foam
in it – it will only make the plywood deteriorate.
Remember that the bottom buttstrap is in the middle of the bottom panel and the side
panel buttstraps are fitted 22mm from the sheer.
PUT SOME PLASTIC UNDER THE JOINT
AREAS TO STOP ACCIDENTAL GLUING TO
THE FLOOR.
Place the buttstraps in position, centrelines
aligned with the joint correct distances to the
edge of the ply. Draw a line around them.
It is important that the panels don't move while
the glue sets up. It can be worthwhile nailing
the panels to the floor or to a scrap piece of ply
or chipboard placed underneath the plastic.
When the whole hull is taped up run a tape along the joins as well. The boat will look like
above.
Hull Interior – Filleting is a better choice than glass taping for some.
There are two choices here for doing the structural chine joins between the ply panels.
Epoxy filleting is preferred as it is simpler and requires less labour. The Glass tape
method might be more familiar for some builders. I have put both methods on the next two
pages.
1/ Epoxy filleting – A thick epoxy paste is squeezed into the chines and shaped with a
radiussed filleting tool for a neat join and little sanding required after. The fillet alone is
strong enough for most boats but if using the boat very roughly you can put a fibreglass
tape over the fillet when it firms up. Method first page below.
2/ Glass Taping – a 50mm (2”) wide tape is applied to the chine (corner join) using epoxy
resin. This method is a little cheaper but adds quite a lot of labour because the edge of
the glass tape needs to be trimmed or sanded down as it makes quite a big bump in the
interior. This sanding is cosmetic. Picture below.
Detail of glass along transom.(pic below left). Use the roller or a cut down disposable
brush (bristles not longer than 25mm (1”) to work epoxy into the glass tape – it goes clear
when the epoxy has wetted it out correctly. An example of wetting out (pic above right) –
the glass along transom is now wetted out and becomes clear. Continuing with the
transom sides – here cutting tape to length.
Roller method (pic below left)
Finished taping and second coat is put on when first gets tacky (pic below right) – roll the
epoxy out well so as to not add too much weight – but roll a little bit extra on the tape – too
much and it will run down the side.
Gluing Endgrain
See drawing of endgrain right.
When gluing endgrain with epoxy it is a two stage
process.
Mix enough resin and hardener to do the job. Stir
well. Brush the mixed epoxy onto the endgrain.
Wait 5 minutes -brush more epoxy on the
endgrain. Now add the high strength gluing
powder to the epoxy in the container and apply to
gluing surfaces.
And hold in place by normal methods such as
clamps or packaging tape until the epoxy sets up.
Taal SUP – stable enough for a beginner but fast on open water
Plans $80
12’ x 28” (15kg). Aim was to keep a stable mid section but hit the right
numbers for a good rowboat or canoe for excellent distance speed.
MSD Rowboat - Easily driven pulling boat for one with companty
Plans $90 15'8" x 4' x 95lbs
I was asked if the pretty Goat would be a good rower. This one is better!