How to build the

QUICK CANOE ELECTRIC

DESIGNER
Michael Storer
Concept by Dana Stovall
storerm@storerboatplans.com
www.storerboatplans.com
 TABLE OF CONTENTS
LICENCE – Quick Canoe ELECTRIC..................................................................................4
Quick Canoe Electric (version N) – OVERVIEW..................................................................5
General Comments..........................................................................................................5
Safety...............................................................................................................................6
Paddling, Free Paddle Plans and other links...................................................................6
IMPORTANT COMMENTS ON MATERIALS.......................................................................7
TIMBER – METRIC AND IMPERIAL LISTS.....................................................................8
Epoxy and gluing Stuff.....................................................................................................9
TOOLS...............................................................................................................................10
BUILDING THE QUICK CANOE HULL..............................................................................11
Marking out the plywood.................................................................................................11
Cutting out the panels.....................................................................................................11
Join the panel to length..................................................................................................12
Option – Epoxy Coating the hull interior.........................................................................13
Making the Plywood Transom........................................................................................13
Transom Framing...........................................................................................................13
Gluing up the long bits with scarfs..................................................................................14
METHOD – DUCT TAPE and ASSEMBLY METHOD.........................................................16
Marking the side panels for the temporary spreaders....................................................16
Setting up the side panels..............................................................................................16
Fitting the transom.........................................................................................................17
Attaching the bottom......................................................................................................18
Turn upright and prepare for filleting/taping....................................................................19
Make sure the hull is untwisted......................................................................................19
Hull Interior – Filleting is a better choice than glass taping for some.............................20
Alternative 1 - Filleting method.......................................................................................20
Alternative 2 - Glass taping method...............................................................................21
Turning the Boat over and preparing for glass taping....................................................22
Glass Taping the outside of the chine............................................................................23
Doing the Timberwork.........................................................................................................23
Fitting the Gunwales......................................................................................................23
Fitting the keel................................................................................................................24
Tapering the front end of the keel...................................................................................24
Fitting the Inwales, Bow and Stern Knees and Centre Spreader..................................25
Fitting the seats..............................................................................................................27
Rounding gunwales and inwales....................................................................................28
Filling holes and getting ready for painting or varnishing...............................................29
Painting and Varnishing......................................................................................................29
Tuning the skeg/keel depth............................................................................................30
Appendices.........................................................................................................................31
Cordless Battery Drill with Clutch...................................................................................31
Wet-on-Wet Coating and Dewaxing Cured Epoxy..........................................................31
One Hit coating and gluing.............................................................................................32
Precoating Plywood Panels before Assembly................................................................32
Building strong lightweight boats - a note on the use of epoxy......................................33
Fibreglass taping method...............................................................................................33
A SELECTION OF MICHAEL STORER WOODEN BOAT PLANS.....................................36

CONSTRUCTION DRAWINGS APPENDED

 LICENCE – QUICK CANOE ELECTRIC
The purchase of this plan entitles the purchaser to build one boat only or to cut out one set
of hull panels only. The rights to build an additional boat or cut additional panels are by
the paying of a further licence fee (amount to be negotiated with the designer).
It is usual for plans to be non-returnable and non-refundable as it is too easy for them to
be copied, then returned. If you want to ask, do so, but I will usually refuse.
VERY IMPORTANT – The electric canoe can sink because of the weight of the motor and
battery so its use is only recommended for small rivers and estuaries. It is certainly not a
boat for wide open waters. For lakes and larger rivers I recommend that buoyancy tanks
be fitted as in the extra drawings supplied. This adds one sheet of ply and some weight.
The purchaser must decide whether the craft will fit their purposes. I have offered a
description of the craft and its building which is offered in good faith.
As there is no control over quality of materials or construction it is impossible to guarantee
performance in any way.
Remember it is the skipper that decides the use of the boat on a given day. Use the boat
in conditions you are comfortable with and gradually, as you get to know her, push that
envelope.
Of course, wear appropriate clothing, carry the appropriate safety gear and be clear on its
correct use.
Quick Canoe Electric

Length - 4.7m (15ft 6ins)

Beam – 1.05m (39ins)

Hull Weight - 17kg (55lbs)

Draft - 0.100m, (4")

Internet information
There is some information available on the internet.
You can always check my website http://www.storerboatplans.com/wp.
Also my forum has information about the development of the Quick Canoes and current
and past builds of the different boats http://tinyurl.com/d9u9by
There is generally a list of information on that page for any additional information that has
been put on the website. Also on the hompage there is a link to my BLOG which is where
I put updates to plans or comments and other useful material. And some nice free paddle
plans.
Special Thanks
Huge thanks to Dana Stovall for thinking up this great use for the Quick Canoe concept
and allowing me to share it with the world.
 QUICK CANOE ELECTRIC (VERSION N) – OVERVIEW
General Comments
One of the by-products of the trip to the USA was that I now
know that canoeing and kayaking is waaaay more fun than I
thought.
I sort of imagined it would be tedious compared to sailing. And
it kinda is, but your mind adapts and you are off and going very
nicely indeed. The thing I liked was just setting the mind to the
task and keeping going, particularly when there are
headwinds.
I also liked the independence of camping particularly with the
days of having to carry lots of water being over with the gravity
filters available these days. Pardon the pic of the $25 tent
bought in America!
Because my income is so little I have pared things to the bone.
I find cheap places to rent, have very few belongings and certainly don't have a car. I
remember doing the calcs about 15 years back and finding that a car would cost me an
extra $70/week if everything was counted. I doubt it is any cheaper now.
So how do I mix my interest in canoe touring and nice boats
with not having a car?
I started to think in terms of “disposable” boats. Building really
cheap and fast from the cheapest materials available. Either
buying them on location at the start or having them shipped
there - maybe with bits cut out in advance. Not so much
money tied up that you are worried about giving away the boat
at trip end.
Assemble the boat over a couple of days, a quick coat of paint,
throw it in the adjacent body of water and go. Up the Murray
Darling or any other of the river systems in OZ.
So I drew up the Quick Canoe.
Electric version
However, customers are never ones to be satisfied ♫ and I
received a very nice email from Dan Stovall in the USA who
had played with the Quick Canoe design to make a simple
electric canoe.
He had increased the beam, raised the sides and fitted a
trolling motor to the back. One thing that was really great is
that he kept everything light and portable – along the lines of
the original QC concept.
Add to that a very nice video (http://tinyurl.com/2umau9u)
and I was completely sold on the idea. I asked for Dana's
permission to use his ideas. The boat was slightly changed to
get a little bit more stability.
The end result is a boat that is simple to build, is easy to cartop and makes use of a motor
that many people already have.
Dana has found that with a 38lb thrust trolling motor that he can get up to about 5 knots
and at a slightly lower speed has a range of a couple of hours.
A very small outboard could be used – but anything over a couple of horsepower will raise
the centre of gravity too high. Additionally the boat WILL NOT GO FAST. It will just sit up
on its tail rather than behave like a planing boat and will trip over if turned at speeds
greater than 5 or 6 knots.

Safety
VERY IMPORTANT – The electric canoe can sink because of the weight of the motor and
battery so its use is only recommended for small rivers and estuaries. It is certainly not a
boat for wide open waters. For lakes and larger rivers I recommend that buoyancy tanks
be fitted as in the extra drawings supplied and to practice to see what happens when you
capsize and have to get back aboard. The tanks add one sheet of ply and some weight.
Experienced users will know whether the conditions which they will use the boats in will be
OK without the buoyancy tanks. But less experienced people should either use the boats
very conservatively or fit buoyancy – either foam, canoe airbags or enclosed tanks in the
ends of the boat. If you do an enclosed tank – please don't put foam in it – it will only
make the plywood deteriorate.
The boat is designed for VERY SMALL powerplants – more than a couple of horsepower
is too much. It won't plane very well as it will stand up on its tail as the bottom curve is
wrong for higher speed. It will also trip and roll if cornered hard travelling faster than 5 or 6
mph/knots.

Paddling, Free Paddle Plans and other links

I have tried to keep the boat so it can be paddled reasonably well. It is a bit beamy for a
regular canoe and may be high enough to blow around if very lightly laden. However if
you run out of battery it can be paddled.
It really is similar to a full size Canadian canoe so would normally use single bladed
paddles. The boxy hull should give it quite a lot of weight carrying capacity – keep an eye
on my forum for discussion on how it goes and changes (if any are necessary).
My free paddle plans will match these two boats very well – see http://tinyurl.com/ycnrya8
My forum is at http://tinyurl.com/ya7qeg2
The full story of the development of the Quick Canoe is at - http://tinyurl.com/ybuh6hs
Kits
Available in the USA from http://www.jowoodworks.com/
 IMPORTANT COMMENTS ON MATERIALS
Plywood – Plywood must be 2440 x 1220 sheets (8 x 4 ft). The Hoop Pine sold in
Australia is a smaller size and may not be big enough to accommodate the boat.
Thinner ply might make a lightweight version possible. 4mm (5/32”) would be the
minimum and it would probably require the bottom panel to be glassed with light cloth on
the outside or be fitted with reinforcing ply on the inside. Cloths as light a 2oz (70gsm)
have proven fine and should cover the bottom and overlap the bottom by an inch to cover
the join between the bottom and side plywood eliminating the need for glass tape on the
outside.
Epoxy Glue - is the most effective glue for amateurs as it is very forgiving as it is gap
filling and doesn't require high clamping pressures.
The boat should be glued with a high solids epoxy system such as Bote Cote, WEST,
System 3, or other quality marine resin system. This is the most foolproof building method
for a beginner. These systems use a powder filler to strengthen and thicken the epoxy.
Why not Polyester Resin? - Those wanting to go really cheap could use polyester resin
for the glass taping which would make a less durable boat because it doesn't stick reliably
to timber. If using polyester car body filler can be used for filling screwholes and cracks.
Alternative Glue Cautions - If wanting to use the slightly cheaper glues of Purbond, PL
Premium (probably best as it is a bit thicker), Titebond 2 or Titebond 3 then they will work
for the woodwork OK. The problem to be aware of is that they require good clamping
pressure and close fits. You will need to use woodworking clamps or many screws to meet
the manufacturer's specifications for clamping pressure. Where the instructions say to add
powder to the epoxy glue you don't need to add it to the alternative glues.
Timber Choices - The timber used in assembly should also be light. Pine or mahogany,
fir, cedar or spruce would be fine. In Australia Hoop Pine would be fine too. Any timber
chosen should be reasonably straight grained with no knots in the longer pieces.
Where screws are used it is only temporary (read the appendices) while the glue dries
(see appendices). Some screws are left in place, but unless the instructions specify that
they are to be removed when epoxy has hardened (usually 12-24 hours). The holes are
then filled.
Take pains to measure out the screw spacings where the holes are going to be visible
such as attaching the skeg and keel batten to the bottom of the boat. Holes will have to be
drilled through the bottom of the boat for the temporary screws.
TIMBER – METRIC AND IMPERIAL LISTS
Materials list - all dimensions are finished sizes and are in mm unless stated otherwise.
WRC - Western Red Cedar (Australia) or other light, stable, straight grained timber
with good gluing properties. No loose or large knots. Alternatives are Kirri (Paulownia),
hoop pine or other pine (which is a somewhat heavier) or any other light timber.
Oregon - Douglas Fir or spruce, select dry stock. Fine grain, no knots. Alternative
is Hoop Pine or other pine or light timber with straight grain a excellent gluing properties.
Hardwood - Straight grained hardwood of medium density with good machining
and gluing properties. For example Brazilian Cedar, Pacific Ash, Tassie Oak.
METRIC Materials list - All dimensions are in millimetres

Part Size Length Number Species

6mm Ply (5ply if possible) 2440 x 1220 - 3 Exterior or Marine
Four Sheets of ply needed if fitting buoyancy tanks
(There is an options to make the bottom out of 6mm and the rest from 4mm)
Fairing batten 19 x 12 5100 1 Oregon
(fairing batten is used as centreline stringers for front and rear seats)
Gunwales and inwales 19 x 19 5100 4 Oregon
Keel Batten * 19 x 31 4800 1 Oregon
Knees & Transom top frame 19 x 130 1200 1 Oregon
Seat side supports 19 x 45 1800 1 WRC/Oregon
Seat Framing 19 x 45 5000 / WRC
Centre Spreader 19 x 75 1200 1 Oregon
Temporary spreader timbers Min 1 3/4 x 3/4 3000 / Cheap/Scrap
Note – if chinelogs are used in the construction they are to be 19 x 19mm

IMPERIAL Materials list - All dimensions are in Inches and feet

Part Size Length Number Species

1/4” Ply (5ply if possible) 8ft x 4ft - 3 Exterior or Marine
Four Sheets of ply needed if fitting buoyancy tanks
Fairing batten 3/4 x 1/2” 16' 1 Oregon
(fairing batten is used as centreline stringers for front and rear seats)
Gunwales/Inwales 3/4 x 3/4” 16' 4 Oregon
Keel Batten* 3/4 x 1 1/2” 15' 1 Oregon
Knees & Transom top frame ¾ x 5 1/2” 4' 1 Oregon
Seat side supports 3/4 x 1 3/4” 5' 1 WRC
Seat Framing 3/4 x 1 3/4” 17' / WRC
Centre Spreader 3/4 x 3” 4' 1 Oregon
Temporary spreader timbers Min 1 ¾ x 3/4 8' / Cheap/Scrap
Note – if chinelogs are used in the construction they are to be ¾ x ¾ inch.
Epoxy and gluing Stuff
Epoxy Approx 1.5 litres (2 pints) – assuming using
epoxy for only filleting, glassing and gluing. Other
glues can be used if using timber chine logs and
stems but with a drop in reliability. Note – this plan
only covers the use of epoxy fillets and/or glass tape.
If wanting to fully epoxy coat the boat for minimum
maintenance it will require a total of 6 or slightly more
litres of epoxy.
Common alternative glues are titebond 2 or 3, PL
Premium (preferred) or Purbond
Fortifier gluing powder 500g (1 lb) if using epoxy glue
Glass tape 50mm (2") 10m (36ft) if glass taping the outside only
20m if glass taping inside as well (not needed on the
inside if epoxy filleting)
Barrier cream for hands and disposable gloves DO NOT USE SOLVENTS FOR
CLEANING EPOXY OFF SKIN – use white vinegar
Disposable Brushes 5 approx
Cable ties or heavy copper wire Should fit through a 3 (1/8”) or 4mm hole – 30 approx.
Foam rollers 2 - if epoxy coating. They have a thin layer of foam on
roller base. If you can get a short roller cage
handle (ask your epoxy supplier or included in kit) it
means the rollers can be cut in three - a good
economy for a little boat like this.
Duckworks (USA) and Duck Flat Wooden Boats or Boatcraft Pacific (both Australian) can
help with materials. Kits are available through Duckworks.
OTHER BITS AND PIECES
10 x stainless steel screws for centre spreader and keel batten - 10gauge x 1 3/4”
countersunk head
3 x stainless steel screws for keel batten - 10gauge x 3/4” countersunk head
Dry wall or plasterboard screws - about 100 of 19mm (3/4”) - see Appendix.
If using polyester resin a tin or tube of Bondo or auto body filler – preferably a light colour.
Masking tape 19mm (3/4") wide
Roll of plastic duct tape about 50mm (2”) wide. Total of minimum 15m (50')
Roll of plastic packaging tape 37mm or 50mm wide (1 1/2 or 2").
Small bag of panel pins. (small, thin nails)
Sheets sandpaper - alumina paper (white grit) is best.
Some plastic sheeting would be useful.
A box of "snap lock" plastic bags if using epoxy.
Clean, used tincans (mix epoxy) and stirring sticks made of scrap 200x20x6mm (8x¾x ¼”)
 TOOLS
IMPORTANT - Read the Appendices for tools and methods used in these plans.
The most useful tools for this style of boatbuilding are a reversible battery drill with a
clutch and dry wall screws to hold most parts until the glue sets up - though I have made
do with a second hand Bit and Brace to do the same thing. Read the appendices!
Drywall screws and variable speed reversible drill are marriage made in heaven. The drill
can be battery (most convenient) or mains powered. It is best if it has a variable clutch. If
you have a drill without a clutch, you can often buy a new chuck with inbuilt clutch.
The screws are self tapping and match a Phillip's head bit in the drill. Just hold two pieces
of wood together with one hand and drive screw in with drill in other. Fast - and the screws
can be reused.
If you want to minimise the indentation where the screw head meets the ply, use a
plywood pad already placed on screw. If gluing, the pad should have some plastic
packaging tape wrapped around it to stop accidental bonding to the workpiece.
I mass-produce the pads by cutting a strip of ply (usually 6mm, 1/4" thick) about 19mm
wide (3/4"), covering one side with packaging tape, then cutting it into 19mm (3/4")
squares
Other than that;
1 metre steel rule – it is good if this is flexible enough to mark out the stem curves and
more flexible than the wooden batten
Tape measure – In the USA metric tape measures can be bought from Duckworks.
Hammer
Jigsaw (Or a hired jigsaw for a day and a handsaw, or better a Japanese backsaw the
rest of the time). Some will be okay cutting ply with a circular saw, but jigsaw is safer.
A general purpose plane (Stanley #4 or a block plane).
Combination square
A chisel around 19mm
Sharpening stone for chisel and plane
File - a round back rasp
Sanding block.
Clamps - The preferred clamps are spring clamps (similar to welders clamps) are very
useful (usually about $2 to $2.50 ea) - make sure they have a strong spring - should be an
effort to squeeze them fully open one-handed. Not essential but 10 would be useful
Conventional clamps can be expensive and are probably not needed for this project. I
usually get away with a couple of reasonable quality G-cramps or sliding bar clamps with a
minimum opening of 100mm (4"). Occasionally it is possible to find cheap sliding bar
clamps from Taiwan for around $3, which I collect when I can. You can probably get away
with no clamps if you use dry wall screws
Trestles - two or three trestles or saw horses - I have used foam fruit boxes or milk crates
at different times. The most useful device of this type is the Triton "workmate" which is a
trestle with a built-in sash cramp. It sells for between $100 and $130. Sometimes
Chinese copies are available for around $30
 BUILDING THE QUICK CANOE HULL
Marking out the plywood
The hull consists of three panels. For most builders I recommend marking out the
complete bottom panel pair on two sheets as shown in the Ply Layout Drawing. And then
doing the full side panel after. This ensures the lines are smooth from piece to piece.
However the final two side panels can be copied from the first two. So … the method ...
Lay two sheets ply measuring 2440 x 1220) end to end. Smaller sheets might not work.
Look at the dimensioned Bottom Panel Drawing at the end of the appendices. Mark
400mm intervals across sheets as shown, measuring out from the join between the
sheets. Draw the line down the length of the sheet 430mm from the top edge as shown on
the drawing. You can use the side of the spare sheet to mark such a long line accurately.
Use Bottom Panel Ply Dimensions Drawing
to mark out the bottom panel shapes with a
sharp pencil. Both the long edges are
measured out from the longitudinal line first.
Note that the bottom panel is reflected
across the centreline AND IS ONE PIECE
(don't cut it down the middle line!!!). Mark
the dotted transom line.
Mark out the side panels. Note that the side
panels are marked out differently from the
bottom panels – read the drawing sheet
carefully. The top and bottom edges of the side panel are both MEASURED FROM THE
EDGE OF THE PLYWOOD. When you are marking out the side panel make sure you
write the word “sheer” in the same place it appears on the drawing.
Now to “join the dots”. Mark out the lines for each side of each panel in turn. Hammer
panel pins (fine nails) into each of the points for each line in turn and bend a batten around
the pins. If some of the pins are not touching the batten check them as they should all be
along a smooth curve. Most of them will be perfectly touching the batten. Double Check
and if there are still problems email me (see cover for the address) so I can check and
correct the plans.
When you are sure it is right, look from the end of the sheet to see that the curve is smooth
use the batten to draw a line to join the measured points.

Cutting out the panels

Cut the panels out. DO NOT CUT ALONG
THE CENTRELINE OF THE BOTTOM
PANEL! The panels are quite close together.
Get used to cutting the wide gaps accurately
before attempting the narrower ones. Do not
remove the pencil lines as you cut. Do not
rush.
Plane panels to lines where necessary. Plane
carefully to the lines – stop before you plane
lines off the plywood!
Trace around the planed side panel to mark
the second side for the boat.. Double check the finished shape by comparing carefully
with the panels you cut previously. Plane the new panels to match.
Be careful with the offcuts - they may be useful later.

Join the panel to length

Join the panels using buttstraps – dimensions in the Miscellaneous Small Parts
drawing.
You will need one bottom buttstrap and two side panel buttstraps. Cut them out and draw
a centreline down the long axis of each.
Before gluing make sure the panels are laid out symmetrically as below with all pencil
marks visible (good practice with any pre assembly) – lay out following the order of panels
– it should look symmetrical like this. It ensures that the buttstraps are on the correct face
of each panel.

Remember that the bottom buttstrap is in the middle of the bottom panel and the side
panel buttstraps are fitted 22mm from the sheer.
PUT PLASTIC UNDER THE JOINT AREAS TO PREVENT GLUING TO THE FLOOR.
Place the buttstraps in position, centrelines aligned with the joint correct distances to the
edge of the ply. Draw a line around them.
It is important that the panels don't move while
the glue sets up. It can be worthwhile nailing
the panels to the floor or to a scrap piece of ply
or chipboard placed underneath the plastic.
(If using not using epoxy you will need
considerable weight or other method to hold
the buttstrap down hard on the surface
Mix epoxy to manufacturer's directions. Then
add some powder to stiffen the mix to a honey-
like consistency. (Use the recommended powder for high strength gluing - NOT talc,
microballoons or Q-cels). Stir very well.
Put epoxy on the Buttstraps and put in position.
You can use three small offcuts of plywood to apply pressure on each buttstrap while the
glue hardens. Put panel pins in corners to stop movement. Put plastic packaging tape on
the three pieces to prevent them from sticking permanently. The three pieces of ply will
also prevent the nail heads from damaging the plywood.
A small amount of glue should ooze out around edge. Clean up any excess.
Turn the panels over and sand the other side of the join clean. Only sand plywood in the
same direction as the woodgrain - along the panels.
On the inside face of the sheer mark a line
19mm down from the sheerline. An easy
method is to hold a ruler at that distance and
use a pen as in the pic right, sliding the finger
of the upper hand along the edge. Use a
pencil!
Drill some holes in the bottom panel to make
fitting the keel easier later. The holes are
though the centreline at each of the 400mm
reference points. If you are epoxy coating the
bottom put small pieces of masking tape on
the outside of the bottom to cover these holes.
Erase the 400mm reference lines and the all the lines from the bottom panel – except for
the dotted transom line and the centreline.

Option – Epoxy Coating the hull interior

If you have planned to make the most durable boat possible, it is the time to epoxy coat
the inside faces of the panels - same side as the buttstraps. Run masking tape along the
edges so that a 20mm (approx) band along the edge of each panel will not get much
epoxy on it.
Read the appendices about Wet on Wet epoxying to save a lot of time and effort. When
cured dewax the epoxy if necessary and sand with 180 grit sandpaper so it is not shiny
anywhere ready for painting, gluing or varnishing later.

Making the Plywood Transom

The drawing for the transom is right. It is
marked out and cut out of plywood
Mark it out, cut and plane down to the lines.
Don't plane the lines off.

Transom Framing
Read this section carefully first – some make
mistakes here.
The drawing below shows the transom
framing.
The framing does not line up with the edges of
the plywood, along the sides and bottom – it
extends past the plywood.
The bottom frame overlaps the edge of the plywood by 7mm and the side framing extends
past the edge of the plywood by 5mm.
The only place the framing matches the edge of the ply is along the top edge. The framing
sizes can be a bit different to what is shown, but the frames must extend past the ply the
right amount.
Look at the diagram below carefully.

When you have the framing cut, glue it in place using clamps or temporary
drywall/plasterboard screws.
When the glue is dry the edges of the framing will need to be bevelled as shown by the
dotted lines in the right hand side of the diagram.
Clamp the transom on a flat surface with the ply face upwards – the edge you are working
on should overhang the table surface.
It is easy to plane too far, so sometimes I put chalk or pencil scribbled marks on the
surface I am planing. That way I can see where I have planed off the surface. The idea is
not to cut away either the ply edge or the further edge of the cleat.
After all this care, if you make a slight mistake the epoxy will fill the gap when the transom
is assembled to the hull. Mark the centreline of the transom at the bottom of the ply face.

Gluing up the long bits with scarfs.

It may be necessary to join the longer pieces
of timber to length if they have to be made up
of shorter lengths.
1. gunwales (19 x 19mm – ¾”sq)
2. inwales (19 x 12mm - ¾ x ½”)
3. keel (19 x 40mm – ¾ x 1 ½)
If making up the lengths yourself the joins can
be anywhere that is convenient for the lengths
or to cut out any knots if the timber is not too
good. The strength is fine if your scarfs are up
to specification. (diagram right) - the 1:6 slope
is essential. Epoxy will fill any gaps but you
might have to be very careful to get them right if using one of the alternative glues.
The method shown of simply hand planing them works fine. Mark each piece with the
scarf length and stack (diagram right).
It is important to follow the method for gluing end grain in the appendices. Make sure the
timber is aligned correctly. Use fine nails to prevent the joints moving once the glue is
applied. Pic below.
The kits include a piece of angle aluminium to use as shown below right. Cover the
aluminium in brown packaging tape to prevent accidental adhesion.
Those not building from kits can run a piece of timber alongside (wrap it in brown
packaging tape) to make sure the scarf is aligned.
You can use plastic sheet or the brown plastic packaging tape to prevent sticking to work
surfaces etc.

When the glue cures the timber can have excess glue sanded off.
 METHOD – DUCT TAPE AND ASSEMBLY METHOD
Now for the fun bit.
For people who are used to building traditional structures this can feel all wrong.
Everything seems so floppy and shapeless. But follow this method and you will end up
with a hull that is smooth and very stable so you join up the interior seams in the next step.
This method confuses experienced woodworkers because it is so against their intuition.
They are used to adding bits to structures that already quite stiff.
But just follow the steps and the boat will turn out nicely. Stiffness and shape is added
step by step until taping is finished. And nothing is permanent until the glue goes on later
– so take your time! You gotta have faith.

Marking the side panels for the temporary spreaders

Mark the insides of the side panels as shown. Make sure you have the bow and stern the
right way round.

Setting up the side panels

First the two side panels are laid down so the inside faces are touching (butt straps on
inside).
Drill some 4mm holes (big enough for the cable ties or wires) – about four from top to
bottom of the stem at the bow end to stitch the end together. The holes should be about
5mm (just under 1/4”) from the ply edge. Don't overtighten. Just a single twist of the
copper wire or the cable ties clipped snugly but not pulled tight will be enough.
Put duct tape between the ties as shown below.

The next thing is to set up the widths of the side panels.

There are temporary pieces of timber used to set the widths of the top edge of the boat.
The hull will end up like this drawing with the widths set by pieces of timber. The sheer
edge is upwards. The number of spreaders will vary from design to design.
The Spreader Timber widths are shown
drawing above. Make three temporary
spreaders. Lengths are:
531mm adjacent to the bow
1019mm at the centre join of the plywood
895mm adjacent to the stern.
Put the side panels upright so the side marked
“sheer” is upwards.

Pieces of timber are cut to these lengths with

the ends at an angle of approximately 30
degrees and put in place with a single drywall
screw through the side of the boat. The screw
will be below the 19mm guide line drawn
parallel the sheer earlier.
The screw can be quite loose to allow the
piece of timber to rotate so the sides are held
apart naturally & approximately.
This component (photo right) is called the side
panel assembly. It is a photo of the standard
Quick Canoe so doesn't have a transom which
we have to fit now.

Fitting the transom

The transom will be dry fitted (no glue) then reassembled using glue.
First thing is to get the transom the right way up. If the side panels are on the ground or
on the table with the sheer upwards the rounded top of the Transom is up too.
Align the transom so the bottom of the transom ply is equal with the bottom of the side
panel ply and temporarily screw it in place using three drywall/plasterboard screws per
side.
Make sure it is fitted neatly and remove the screws.
Put masking tape on the inside of the side panel so there is a small gap between the tape
and the transom framing. Remove the transom and glue it in place (glue is put on the side
panels) using the same screw holes. Don't over tighten them – watch carefull on the
outside face of the transom and stop when the glue squeezes out. Don't overtighten!
Temporarily clamp or screw the gunwales in place to give the side panel a smooth curve.
Attaching the bottom
Put two trestles or other supports on a level
surface about 2400mm apart (8ft approx).
Turn the Side panel assembly over carefully so
the Centre Spreaders are on the lower side.
Stand in the middle and lift the side panel up
and put it on top of the trestles. This means
the sheer side is DOWN.
Put two pieces of your remaining timber across
the top edge of the side panel assembly about
in line with the trestles. Stand at the end of the
boat to sight them to make sure they are
parallel. If not parallel the trestle heights will have to be adjusted in height using ply
offcuts.
Place the bottom panel on top with the butt strap side down.
Start by aligning the centreline with the tip of the bow and the centre of the transom. Move
the panel backwards and forwards until the dotted transom line on the inside of the bottom
panel lines up with the outside of the transom.
Check the front (pointy) end to make sure there is enough length and width to fully cover
the side panel ply at the front of the hull. If not, slide the ply forward slightly. Put a single
screw through the bottom into the transom frame. (Feedback for fit wanted by designer)
Put some tape at the front end to hold the centreline in line with the centre join of the bow
– or close.
The duct taping must be done in a very systematic way – step by step. First with more
strips of tape about 400mm long. If you have trouble aligning it use some of the left over
cable ties.
The edge of the bottom panel will align with the outside face of the side panel – see the
right side of the diagram below.
Be methodical as in the diagram below. Work for. Do the same on the other side. The
duct tape needs to be tensioned and stretched moderately as it goes on.

Repeat on the opposite side of the boat. If it is difficult to align the panels then the screws
holding the spreader timbers might be too tight.
Continue adding more tapes working up each side equally and toward each end equally

When the whole hull is taped up run a tape along the joins as well. The boat will look like
above.

Turn upright and prepare for filleting/taping

The hull can now be carefully turned upright.
Make sure the trestles are square to the hull.
Put some extra strips of the duct tape to
reinforce the top end of the stems – the pointy
ends as the next step will put extra load that
might pull the stems apart.
The picture right doesn't show the tapes on the
stem – Rick has put a piece of wood in there
and glued it in place. But we will use an epoxy
fillet or a piece of glass tape.
The sheer edge is unstable because the ply is thin so we will temporarily stiffen it. The
gunwale pieces 19 x 19 can be clamped or temporarily screwed on the outside face of the
sheer if not already. Later they will glued, but we are just using them temporarily to pull
the gunwale into a fair (smooth) curve but fitting them in their correct position.
There is one trick to make the gunwales look nice on the finished boat. Screw them in
place with screws working from the middle of the boat toward the ends – do both sides at
the same time. However, when you get to about 900mm from the end of the boat stop
putting in screws and go straight out to the end of the boat. Use a clamp or screw to set
up the gunwale so the top edge of the gunwale is 5mm above the plywood edge. Then go
back to where you stopped putting in screws and continue out to the ends of the hull.
Later the gunwale will be planed down to the plywood line and the gunwale will have a
slight taper because of this lift. It helps the boat to look lighter toward the ends. An old
boatbuilding trick – you can use it on any boat to make it look nicer.
If the gunwales pull the side plywood apart put one screw through both pieces of ply about
10mm below the end of the gunwale and about 10mm from the end of the boat. Cover the
sharp end of the screw with masking tape. Make sure it does not distort the plywood –
loosen if necessary.

Make sure the hull is untwisted

Put a piece of timber across the assembled hull above each trestle. Stand at one end of
the boat to make sure they are parallel. If they are not parallel put some ply offcuts under
the trestle feet until the twist is taken out. Sometimes it is necessary to put some weight
inside the boat to hold the bottom panel hard against the trestle.

Hull Interior – Filleting is a better choice than glass taping for some.
There are two choices here for doing the structural chine joins between the ply panels.
Epoxy filleting is preferred as it is simpler and requires less labour. The Glass tape
method might be more familiar for some builders. I have put both methods on the next two
pages.
1/ Epoxy filleting – A thick epoxy paste is
squeezed into the chines and shaped with a
radiussed filleting tool for a neat join and little
sanding required after. The fillet alone is
strong enough for most boats but if using the
boat very roughly you can put a fibreglass tape
over the fillet when it firms up. Method first
page below.
2/ Glass Taping – a 50mm (2”) wide tape is
applied to the chine (corner join) using epoxy
resin. This method is a little cheaper but adds
quite a lot of labour because the edge of the
glass tape needs to be trimmed or sanded
down as it makes quite a big bump in the interior. This sanding is cosmetic.
It is possible to economise by using polyester resin which doesn't stick to wood as well as
the epoxy does but is cheaper and available in hardware stores. You can increase its
adhesion by thinning the first coat applied with 20% acetone. (DONT EVER THIN EPOXY
– THINNERS WEAKEN EPOXY). Method second page below.

Alternative 1 - Filleting method

Make a filleting tool from plywood with a radius
of 18mm. The normal size of the fillet is three
times the plywood thickness. 3 x 6mm =
18mm
I would recommend this size even if building of
4mm ply because it is a critical joint! The edge
of the tool must be smooth.
The second tool is to sharpen a ply offcut or
glue mixing stick to a sharp edge like a chisel.
- that is flat on one side and with an angle cut
on another. This stick is for cleaning up.
There are messy ways of doing the fillet and
tidy ones.
Put down masking tape on both sides of the
chine join. The masking tape should be about 25mm away from the join. This limits the
mess from people learning to fillet! Same for professionals!
Most supermarkets have varieties of “snap lock” bags. They have a seal across the
opening of the bag that can be pressed together with finger pressure. They make it a lot
easier to keep epoxy glue away from areas on the boat where you don't want to put it.
And also areas on yourself where you don't want to put it!
Start making up smaller batches of epoxy, adding the filler and if it all works OK then
increase the amount of epoxy you mix.
Make up some epoxy, thicken it to the
consistency of peanut butter. Put a "snap lock"
Glad plastic bag into a tin and fold the top of
bag over lip of tin (like a garbage bag in a
garbage bin - trashcan). Scrape epoxy into
the bag.
Take bag out of tin, seal opening and cut one
corner out of bag to make a hole a few mm
(approx 1/4") across - size will need to vary
with consistency of mix.
By gently squeezing the bag – twist the snap
lock end and squeeze the epoxy into the
corner with the hole. A bead of epoxy will ooze out of hole in controlled way.
Pipe a bead of epoxy along the chine The
filleting tool is used to shape the epoxy.
(second photo from the top).
Use the radiussed filleting stick to smooth
down the fillet. Practice getting it smooth and
even. (Third photo from the top). It is best to
work back towards the area already filleted as
this joins up a bit more smoothly. One problem
is the temptation to go back and redo parts. If
it is pretty good just leave it.
Remove excess from either side of fillet with
chisel ended stick. It is possible to lay
masking tape down either side of the join in
the first place so that the excess can be removed with the tape. (part done in the picture
right)
In the stems you need a different shaped
filleting too as the other one will make the fillet
too big because of the acute angle.
Make a flat ended stick with chisel ended with
a width of 14mm.
The masking tape needs to be 30mm away
from the panel join.
Use it to do the fillet in the ends. Clean up as
before.
Make sure the boat is undisturbed on the
trestles until the epoxy goes hard.

Alternative 2 - Glass taping method

Read the Appendices about glass taping. The glass taping method in the Appendices is a
guide but with these changes.
In the appendix method the bottom of the boat is coated entirely. For this canoe you
probably only want to do the chines and not coat the whole interior.
Do the stems first - For the inside of the boat cut the glass tapes to length plus about
50mm (2”).
Mix small amounts of epoxy each time in a tin and pour it into a paint tray or other flat,
wide containers so the heat doesn't accumulate. Throw the resin out if it starts to get hot
and thick and make up a smaller batch next time. If you have no problem with it getting
hot slightly increase the size of the mixed batches.
Read the Appendix on glass taping. Brush (trim the brush bristles down to about 25mm
long) resin down the length of the seam then follow the method in the appendices by
laying the glass into the resin. . Dab the brush so the glass tape becomes saturated with
the resin already brushed on. Add more resin if the glass is still white and opaque. When
it is possible to see the wood grain there is enough resin in the cloth.
Continue with all the other glass tapes.
Finished taping and a second coat of resin is put on when first gets tacky – too much and it
will run.
If the weave pattern is still visible in the glass tape wait for the coat to go tacky and add
another coat. If the weave is 90% gone that it enough..
Leave epoxy to cure.
The next day – while the resin is still a little cheesy (if you leave it too long it will make this
hard work) set a fine spokeshave fine and get rid of the edge of the glass tape. Keep the
body of the spokeshave over the glass but set the blade with a tiny bit of depth on the
edge side but no depth on the other.
Work carefully and slowly.
Then sand the glass tape using the random orbit sander and 120 grit paper. Keep the
edge of the sander lined up with the edge of the glass, but keep the sander body over the
tape. Concentrate a bit of weight on the side of the sander over the tape edge and keep
the rest of the sander off the surface of the tape. Some use a cabinet scraper.
Finish off by sanding the rest of the bottom to a matte finish (no gloss) but don’t go through
the epoxy to the timber. The glass tape should be sanded with handheld sandpaper in the
corner.
If epoxy coating the whole interior and you have gone through some of the areas that were
precoated brush a couple of thin coats onto any areas where there is bare wood – allow
that section to cure and give a light sand – making sure the edges of the brushed area are
faired in..

Turning the Boat over and preparing

for glass taping.
If the epoxy has hardened it will feel like rock if
you try to dig a fingernail into it. If in doubt
don't turn it over but wait another day.
When the boat is turned make sure it is well
supported by the trestles. Put two pieces of
straight wood across the bottom and make
sure the trestles are level and the hull
untwisted.
If there is any overhang use a sandpaper and
block or the plane carefully to sand it off.
Using the plane take about 4mm off the corner.
Finish with sandpaper on a block and sand
around the corner to finish the radius.
The stems are rounded in a similar way.
There may be cracks or gaps to be filled:
If using Epoxy for the glass taping - make up some glue mix to peanut butter
consistency and fill the holes or cracks and use a chisel edge stick to fill flush. If the
cracks are really narrow (3mm or less) you can go straight on to glass taping. If wider wait
for the filler to start to become firm and then glass tape.
If using Polyester for the glass taping – Use the auto body filler to slightly over fill the
cracks and let the filler cure. It will take about 20 minutes. Then use the sandpaper and
block to make the radius smooth again.
If using epoxy read the glassing method on the previous page if you have not read it
before.

Glass Taping the outside of the chine

Note – if wanting to coat the bottom and sides of the boat in epoxy it can be done at
the same time as coating … the full method is in the appendices. However use the
masking tape to keep epoxy off the gunwales for the moment. See the pictures In
the appendices.
If the inside of the hull was filleted, read the
section above on glass taping. Same process.
Start with the stems but put the glass tape so it
ends flush with the bottom of the boat.
Don't worry if it longer at the other end.
Then do the chines. Cut the glass tape about
100mm (4”) longer than needed and leave
some excess at both ends.
Trim the excess down to about an inch
overlength. It wil be sanded down later.
Recoat as necessary to 90% fill the weave (following instructions in the sections above)
and then plane and sand down the edge to fair it into the ply (yes … following the
instructions).
When sanding the corner do it by hand with old sandpaper so it doesn't cut too fast. Don't
sand the corner too much as it is easy to go through the glass. Stop as soon as the resin
is not shiny (matte). The flat areas can be sanded a bit more vigorously.
DOING THE TIMBERWORK
Fitting the Gunwales
The Gunwales can now be glued on. Before
taking them off do two things
1. If you want to do a really neat job put
masking tape on the hull side about
3mm (1/8”) under the gunwales. Trim
gunwales slightly overlong.
2. Mark the left and right and the front and
back on each before taking them off.
Then you can use the same screw
holes again.
As it is a vertical surface epoxy glue will have to be peanut butter thickness or a little bit
thinner.
Use the bag method (appendices) to put glue quickly out on the side of the boat. Spread
with a glue stick.
Then starting at the middle of the boat use the original screw holes to put the gunwales
back on. Do three screws on one side then three screws on the other.
Tighten the screws so the timber just meets the plywood – your eyes are the best measure
of this. The screws will to be about 300mm apart. If there is a gap in some places put in
extra screws or use clamps. The holes will be hidden by the inwale.
Alternate glues should have enough quantity to ooze out of the joint and be fastened with
more force with screws about 200mm apart.
Wait about 15 minutes and then use a chisel ended stirring stick to clean up any excess
glue. Remove the masking tape.
When cured then plane to bring the tops of the gunwale down so they meet the plywood.
Try to keep the top surface at the original angle while planing it down.

Fitting the keel.

Turn the boat upside down. Some help for half an hour is useful this step.
To help you fit the keel straight, the holes were drilled previously. Measure from the middle
of the hole out to the side 10mm and put a mark. The side of the keel timber will line up
with these marks.
Fit the Keel (19 x 40 - ¾ x 1 ½”) fitting temporary screws from the inside – the holes were
predrilled in the ply – some timber types may need to be predrilled to prevent splitting of
the keel. Use the existing holes that were drilled in the bottom..

CAUTION - The screws and predrilling may come through the keel and hurt the
person holding the skegs in place – keep hands clear of the area being screwed.

Once satisfied with the dry run, remove all screws. Apply glue to the keel batten and
screw back in place. Clean up epoxy after 15 minutes.

Tapering the front end of the keel

When the glue is cured the end shape can be marked with a flexible batten or steel ruler
so it looks good (dotted line) and then be cut down to that shape.
I recommend two permanent stainless steel screws at each end to prevent the keel from
splitting if it hits something hard. This is fairly unlikely, but just one or two screws from the
inside of the boat into the keel will be enough. Dip the screw threads in mixed epoxy
before fitting them permanently.

Fitting the Inwales, Bow and Stern Knees and Centre Spreader
All these parts will be temporarily screwed in place and then glued later.
Remove the screws that held the gunwale on when the glue is set. If you have trouble
removing screws see the first appendix. The ends of the gunwales should be cut off equal
with the end of the boat.
Fit the inwales (19 x 12mm, ¾ x 1/2”) doing a dry fit first. Clamp or screw them in place
in the middle section of the boat but leave the ends loose. Mark them with location of the
plywood centre join and mark front and back and left and right so you won't get confused.
Then hold the end in the final location and mark it so the end will just match the fillet.
Cut it to length and then adjust using a sandpaper and block so it fits neatly inside the
stem.
Do the opposite side and adjust both so they fit in neatly.
Go to the other end and do the same. Put screws in to hold them in position. Their top
edge lines up with the top edge of the plywood.
The Stern Knees are made of solid wood (19mm thick – ¾”) and carefully fitted inside the
inwales,
The drawing for the knees is in the Miscellaneous Small Parts Drawing at the end of the
plan. Cut them to that shape – pay attention to the grain direction – cut them out of the
timber as shown.
Match to fit the corners of the stern transom to hull side join first.
Then the back edge will have to be bevelled to match the angle of the transom, but it
should be close following the diagram.
Make sure you bevel the knees as mirror images of each other.
When fitting the knees set them up so their top surface is a millimetre above the plywood
of the sides and transom. Later they will be sanded down to precisely match the plywood
gunwale and inwale to make you look like a master boatbuilder!
Drill two holes through the transom into the
knee – measure them so you can copy the
spacing on the other side and put the long
stainless steel screws in the holes – don't glue
yet..
The Bow Knee is plywood – the shape is in
the Miscellaneous small parts drawing but
needs to be marked with the actual bow
shape.
To match the bow shape put the rough cut bow
knee in place on top of the bow with its
centreline in the middle (measure). Then slide
it towards the front until the plywood
overhangs the outside of the gunwales and
clamp in place – double check the centreline is
OK.
Then use a pencil to mark the underside following the gunwale edge.
Remove the bow knee and cut and trim to match the pencil line. Sand it so it is smooth.
It can be set up so that it is a bit further back from the marking position so it doesn't quite
cover the gunwale, leaving a 10mm margin all round.
The curve of the back edge is nice and can be marked with a batten or something round.
A 19 x 19mm (¾ x ¾”) piece of timber is cut to
fit underneath supporting the back edge and
gluing to the inwales at both ends .. It will look
best if it is slightly forward of the back edge of
the knee.
The Centre Spreader is made of 19 x 75mm
(¾ x 3”) timber. You may wish to curve the
sides to make it look more elegant but it is not
necessary. Round the long edges nicely.
The Centre Spreader dimensions are in the
Miscellaneous Small Parts Drawing. There
are two different end shapes and slightly
different locations depending on if the inwales
have been fitted or not. The dimensions for
the two end options are given in the drawing.
The inwales ends are fitted with a bevel to the side of the boat and then a second smaller
bevel to the underside of the inwale. See Miscellaneous Small Parts Drawing.
The centre spreader is held in place with two temporary screws from the outside of the
boat into the ends of the centre spreader. They need to be carefully angled so they won't
break through the surface of the centre spreader.
Remove knees, Centre Spreader and inwales.
Glue them on using the original screw holes. Do the inwales first, then the bow knee and
its stiffener timber then the stern knees
Follow the instructions in the appendices about gluing end grain before gluing the centre
spreader. I is good practice whichever glue you are using.
When the glue is cured remove the temporary screws from the centre spreader. Replace
them with the longer permanent screws – dip the thread of the screw in epoxy or varnish
before screwing them in. Remove the temporary screws holding the keel and skeg on and
put in permanent screws in the three holes closest to the ends of the boat – though these
might be omitted if wanting to try the boat and adjust the keel/skeg depth at the ends of the
boat.
Fitting the seats
The seat dimensions in the pictures above are approximate and slightly oversize, so may

need to be corrected for people of different heights and weights.

It may need to be adjusted for boats with two paddling positions if the two usual paddlers
are grossly different weights or the front paddler has very long legs and a front buoyancy
tank is being fitted. The electric version can also be trimmed by moving the battery.
Dana's boat has the battery up in the bow to keep the boat balanced.
If the paddlers of approximately the same weight are paddling the front edge of each seat
should be an equal distance from the centre of the boat. Rick took the test boat for a
paddle kneeling or with temporary seats to get the spacings and balance right. If it is a
general use boat then just follow the plan, but if planned to be used for distance canoeing
a trial run can be a good idea.
First check the seat height. Put marks on the inwales the measurements shown from the
centre spreader in the diagram above. Also mark the 356mm seat widths.
Put some timber framing across the boat at
each of these points and measure square
down from the timber to show the seat heights.
Draw a line on the inside of the boat to show
the seat top level.
The seat side supports are cut to the shapes
(diagram) right.
This is really a starting point as they may be
planed so they are vertical against the side of
the boat but this is optional.
The seat supports should be carefully dry fitted using temporary screws through the side of
the boat and/or the clamping method shown in the photo right.
If they distort the side of the boat the face
against the side of the boat might need a little
planed off the ends so it fits the curve better.
Or you can just have them a little bit loose and
trust the epoxy to fill the gap (you can).
Double check that the seat mounts will hold
the seats square to the centreline of the boat.
Measure the length of the timber to go across
the boat at each side support notch –
crossbeams 19 x 45 (¾x1¾”).
The slots of the seat mounts and the ends of
the crossbeams will need to be adjusted for
the angle to allow the seats to slide into place
easily either paring with a chisel (using your
body weight … not a hammer) or sandpaper
around a block or a file. Go slowly and
carefully. This doesn't have to be super
accurate. The epoxy will be able to accommodate the gap.
Slide the seats crossbeams into place. Label
them clearly so you can put them back.
Tops are plywood. You might want to make
some cardboard patterns to match the shapes
in the first diagram in this section and adjust
until they are a nice match for the side of the
boat.
Then make the ply seats to the same size.
OPTION - Some builders who have access to a router have cut decorative slots into the
top of the seat. Typically the slots are about 10mm wide and have a gap between them of
40mm. This is quite nice because it gives the seat a bit of flex to accommodate different
shaped posteriors. Epoxy seal and sand ready for shape and glue.
Remove and glue the mounts to the sides of the boat.
Put brown packaging tape on the ends of the seat crossbeams so they won't accidentally
glue to the side mounts, put them in place again and glue the ply seat top on.
When the glue cures the seats can be pulled out and the underside supports can be fitted.
The edges of the seat can be sanded flush and smooth with the framing and the seat
epoxy sealed on all surfaces (if doing a full epoxy seal. If not doing an epoxy seal this can
be a good time to prime the underside of the seat with paint or varnish.
The seats then glue in place (remove the packaging tape!) and an epoxy fillet is put
between the seat top and the side of the boat.

Rounding gunwales and inwales

The gunwales and inwales need to have their top edges and undersides rounded. The
fastest method is the plane off the top corner of the gunwale at 45 degrees to produce a
face about 5mm wide.
Flip the boat over and do a smaller bevel on the inderside of the gunwales – I really just
take the sharp edge off.
Then use sandpaper wrapped around a scrap piece of ply to finish the radii.

Filling holes and getting ready for painting or varnishing

Now it is time to fill all the holes. If using epoxy there is a little trick to reduce the amount
of sanding. Mix up resin and hardener and add powder to make up to a little bit more
liquid than peanut paste.
Use the bag method to put a small blob of epoxy on each screw hole Start with holes in
horizontal surfaces. It should be above the surface of the timber or ply. DON'T use a putty
knife or spatula to spread it out or smooth it off. Keeping the surface area small makes it
quick to sand.
If not using epoxy use the car body filler or if planning to varnish sections of the boat use a
water or solvent based timber putty to match the timber colour.
Sand everything smooth. Ready for painting.
PAINTING AND VARNISHING
Paint is more durable and will protect the epoxy and timber the best. Varnish hides a
rough surface better. If you have done a rough job the timber grain will hide it. Make sure
the varnish contains ultra-violet filters.
My usual plan is to varnish the inside of open boats and decide to paint or varnish the
outside. Generally if you can store the boat indoors when not in use there is no reason to
not leave the outside clear finished. But it is going to be left outside much of the time I
would consider a painted exterior including the gunwales and remember to leave the boat
upside down.
There are two basic types of paints and varnishes.
3. Two pot - which is very hard and durable, but can be hard to get a good finish
with a brush and to touch up. You have to be careful of the fumes. No primer or
undercoat is required.
4. Conventional varnishes - thin with turps, are easier to put on, but may remain soft
for some time. The conventional varnishes often have a better gloss and I think
they are much more pleasant to use (feel nice/smell nice).
Use varnish and paints according to manufacturer's directions. A professional finish is 90
percent dependant on getting the surface smooth between each coat.
My tendency for maximum durability and best appearance would be to use a two pot
polyurethane for the outside, round to the underside of the gunwale, and a varnish on the
interior. For rough use I would paint the whole thing.
Consider masking off some of the floor areas with masking tape including nice rounded
corners and using a non-skid finish.

Paint and Varnish Maintenance

Hose it out after use. If leaving it outdoors for extended periods turn upside down on a
couple of bricks so that air can get under it and water can run off. If the epoxy coating is
damaged put three coats epoxy (wet on wet) on the exposed wood and touch up with
varnish or paint.
If varnish is continually exposed to sun it will need a light sand and two or three new coat
every year (less in Northern Australia). Two pot varnish will go for a couple of years under
the same conditions. Conventional paint can be given a fresh coat when it starts looking
shabby (3 years?). Two pot paints should be good for 5 years or more.
Keeping the boat out of the sun will reduce need for maintenance many fold.
Tuning the skeg/keel depth
This is not so relevant to the Quick Canoe Electric version, but if you don't find it as
manoeuvrable as you want there are some useful tips here.
Contrary to most canoe literature I think the keel depth makes little difference to the
directional stability of the hull. The depth of the keel is too shallow to make much
difference by any standard of foil or lifting surface design. A badly wandering boat isn't
changed much.
The thought I had based on my experience with early strip planked canoes is that the
fineness/narrowness of the entry of the hull acts as a fin on the front and back of the canoe
as explained with the Wee Lassie picture in the plan preamble. But keel COMBINED with
the “fins” on the end (whether a traditional hull or this simplified one) does make a
difference because the depth is out at the ends of the boats where it makes a real
difference.
I have drawn up the skeg/keel combination on the original Quick Canoe to be oversize but
Rick who built the first one thought it good for a tourer. if you want to turn faster – and take
some time to get to know the boat first - then the skeg keel can be planed down to adjust
the turn rate to suit.
 APPENDICES
1/ Cordless Battery Drill with Clutch
2/ Wet on Wet Epoxy Application and dewaxing cured epoxy
3/ One hit coating and gluing
4/ Precoating Plywood Panels before Assembly
5/ Building strong lightweight boats - a note on the use of epoxy
6/ Fibreglass taping method – coat and tape at the same time.
7/ Gluing endgrain
Cordless Battery Drill with Clutch.
A marriage made in heaven. The drill can be battery (most convenient) or mains powered.
It is best if it has a variable clutch. If you have a drill without a clutch, you can often buy a
new chuck with inbuilt clutch.
The screws are self tapping and match a Phillip's head bit in the drill. Just hold two pieces
of wood together with one hand and drive screw in with drill in other. Fast - and the screws
should be removed and may be re-used.
If you want to minimize the indentation where the
screw head meets the ply, use a plywood pad
already placed on screw. If gluing, the pad
should have some plastic packaging tape
wrapped around it to stop accidental bonding to
the workpiece.
I mass produce the pads by cutting a strip of ply
(usually 6mm, 1/4" thick) about 19mm wide (3/4"),
covering one side with packaging tape, then
cutting it into 19mm (3/4") squares.
Screws should be removed when the epoxy is
hard enough – usually the following day – it
should feel hard when you try to indent it with a
thumbnail.
If the screws ever get stuck so they can’t be
undone apply some heat using a cheap electric soldering iron (right). A couple of minutes
and the epoxy will soften enough for them to be unscrewed.

Wet-on-Wet Coating and Dewaxing Cured Epoxy.

Great improvements have been made to Bote Cote brand epoxy in regards to this
problem. It is very unlikely to occur at all. All the preparation you need for the next
process is to sand the hardened epoxy surface. The wet-on-wet application method is still
the best as you don't have to sand between the coats.
However other brands of epoxy may suffer from wax.
As epoxy cures some of the unreacted components migrate to the surface, leaving a waxy
residue. This can reduce the adhesion of following coats, whether epoxy or paint and
make them go "fish-eyed" (the surface finishes pitted).
This is why I always use a "wet-on-wet" epoxy application method (see "precoating
plywood sheets" below). If the surface is allowed to cure it will have to be dewaxed (not
Bote-Cote) and sanded (Bote Cote too).

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Dewaxing - When the two to three coats have cured I always de-wax the surface using a
plastic domestic scourer (Scotchbrite) and water with some cloudy ammonia added.
Scrub very thoroughly rinsing off regularly as you go.
You can then sand the surface to key it for further painting, epoxying or gluing.

One Hit coating and gluing

An extension of wet on wet epoxying is a method for coating areas that are easy to get at
now (plain plywood compenents) may be hard to get at a bit later when other parts are
attached. A couple of examples are fitting the bottom, fitting the side decks and fitting
framing to the bulkheads.
For example if gluing the bottom panel in place it is easy to coat the inside of the bottom at
the same time. For major gluing processes like this it is important to make sure that
everything will work smoothly – do a DRY RUN without the epoxy to make sure that you
have enough screws etc to hold the bottom on OK – you can use the same holes again
when you are putting the bottom on permanently.
This is the method (put on your disposable gloves!!!).
1/ get all the framing that the bottom will be attached to bevelled and ready to accept glue
2/ put three coats of epoxy “wet on wet” on the inside of the bottom as per the mehod in
the appendix above.
3/ immediately put glue (epoxy plus the gluing thickening powder – make up to a peanut
paste thickness) on all the framing of the hull that the inside of the bottom will be glued to –
spread it out ready to take the bottom.
4/ drop the bottom on with its wet face in contact with the glue in the previous step and
screw the bottom in place.
5/ clean up any excess glue that has squeezed out of the joints about 20 minutes after the
assembly. If you wait till tomorrow you will be sanding forever. Use a flat piece of timber
sharpened to a chisel edge on the end with a sander.
The same method can be used when putting the framing on the bulkheads. Coat one side
of the bulkhead immediately before gluing the framing on that side.

Precoating Plywood Panels before Assembly.

I find this the best method, where possible.
It saves the effort of sanding between coats of epoxy and prevents any waxing problems
between the wet-on-wet coats.
Mask off all areas that you don't want coated. (Especially any areas you are going to glue
to later – not strictly necessary with the Eureka.)
Lay surface flat where possible.
Mix resin and hardener. You don't need to add any powder when you are coating –
they are only used when gluing one piece to another.
Apply first coat.
NOTE - If doing large areas the epoxy will go off too quickly if left in the mixing tin. You will
have much more working time if you pour most of it out over the surface first and roughly
spread with a squeegee, before going back with a roller to spread properly.
Don’t bother to buy a commercial squeegee – just use an offcut of ply about 200 x
75+mm (8 x 3”). Make sure the working edge is straight and that you have sanded the

© Michael Storer 2010 Page 32

sharpness off the edges and corners.
When it is spread hold roller so it cannot rotate and pull gently along surface of epoxy. It
slicks the surface smooth and pop any air bubbles.
When first coat has become quite tacky, roll on second coat. Slick the surface.
When second coat is tacky roll on third (if required) and slick it down.
IMPORTANT - Remove masking tape when third coat is still tacky. You don't want to glue
it down - forever.
When epoxy is fully cured turn the panels over, sand off any drips that have come from the
other side and repeat process if required.
When the epoxy has cured sand the panels smooth using a random orbit sander (these
tools are a very worthwhile investment but hand is fine too). 180 grit paper is about right.
Sand enough to remove gloss.
If you have problems getting a good finish speak to your epoxy dealer.

Building strong lightweight boats - a note on the use of epoxy

Epoxy is expensive stuff, so when there is a bit left over from a process there is a
temptation to use it somewhere.
Don't do it! The boat has been carefully designed to be strong enough already - all you will
do is add weight and ruin the boat. Where you can use it for a legitimate step, do so - but
think about it first.
Another time it is best to throw out epoxy is if it is starting to go off in the bag or tin. If it is
starting to get too hot to comfortably hold it is going to be hard very shortly - you are
unlikely to have enough time to put it into place.
Furthermore, hot epoxy fillets slump badly, hot coatings wax and get fish-eye pitting, and
hot glue joins end up with lumps that stop clamping. Make up a smaller mix next time and
get it out on the surface earlier – straight after careful mixing in the tin or bag

Fibreglass taping method

The method for fibreglassing hull seams can use the same wet-on-wet approach as above
but with a small change to integrate the application of the glass tape. It makes it a very
clean and tidy process once you get the idea.
Fill any screw holes, allow the epoxy to cure and sand flat. Radius the edges that the tape
will be applied to. A minimum of 3mm (1/8”) is just enough to allow the glass to wrap
around without lifting. A bit more is better – but don’t round the edges around the transom
at the stern too much – the water wraps round the corner when sailing causing drag.
Apply first coat of epoxy to hull (pic below left). Note the masking tape to prevent epoxy
drips running around the corner onto the deck. The finish can be quite smooth by holding
the roller so it can’t turn and lightly and slowly skid it across the surface to pop bubbles
and get rid of roller marks..
Continued next page.

© Michael Storer 2010 Page 33

Put glass tape down in wet epoxy (pic below right). I should be wearing gloves.

Detail of glass along transom.(pic below left). Use the roller or a cut down disposable
brush (bristles not longer than 25mm (1”) to work epoxy into the glass tape – it goes clear

when the epoxy has wetted it out correctly. An example of wetting out (pic above right) –
the glass along transom is now wetted out and becomes clear. Continuing with the
transom sides – here cutting tape to length.
Roller method (pic below left)
Finished taping and second coat is put on when first gets tacky (pic below right) – roll the
epoxy out well so as to not add too much weight – but roll a little bit extra on the tape – too
much and it will run down the side.
When epoxy goes tacky apply a third thin coat and skid the roller to give a smooth finish.
If the weave pattern is still visible in the glass tape roll another coat to fill up the weave.
Leave epoxy to cure.

© Michael Storer 2010 Page 34

The next day – while the epoxy is still a little cheesy (if you leave it too long it will make this
hard work) set a fine spokeshave fine and get rid of the edge of the glass tape. Keep the
body of the spokeshave over the glass but set the blade with a tiny bit of depth on the
edge side but no depth on the other.

Work carefully and slowly.

Then sand the glass tape using the random orbit sander and 120 grit paper. Keep the
edge of the sander lined up with the edge of the glass, but keep the sander body over the
tape. Angle the sander - concentrate a bit of weight on the side of the sander over the
tape edge and keep the rest of the sander off the surface of the tape.
Finish off by sanding the rest of the bottom to a matte finish (no gloss) but don’t go through
the epoxy to the timber.
Generally I brush a couple of thin coats onto any areas where I go through to the wood –
allow that section to cure and give a light sand – making sure I blend the edges of the
brushed area.

Gluing Endgrain
See drawing of endgrain right.
When gluing endgrain with epoxy it is a two stage
process.
Mix enough resin and hardener to do the job. Stir
well. Brush the mixed epoxy onto the endgrain.
Wait 5 minutes -brush more epoxy on the
endgrain. Now add the high strength gluing
powder to the epoxy in the container and apply to
gluing surfaces.
And hold in place by normal methods such as
clamps or packaging tape until the epoxy sets up.

© Michael Storer 2010 Page 35

 A SELECTION OF MICHAEL STORER WOODEN BOAT
PLANS
www.storerboatplans.com

OZ Racer – the simplest cheapest BOAT

8ft x 4ft x 63lbs (2.4 x 1.2 x 29kg) – Special $20
Up to 2 Adults and a medium dog
The PDR is a fast growing international class originally from the
USA. Our OZ version PDRs have excellent sailing performance and
feel like bigger boats on the water. Can take an outboard or be
rowed.

Goat Island Skiff

15’6 x 5’6” x 128lbs hull (4.6 x 1.65 x 59kg)
Up to 4 Adults and a picnic – plans $100
The “GIS” is my most popular plan. A strikingly handsome but very
easy to build. It carries up to four adults and still sails extremely
well – with one or two people aboard it has modern performance
and will whop any “character boat”. Takes a small outboard and
rows nicely too.

Eureka Canoe
15’6” x 33” x 46lbs (4.6 x 0.84 x 21kg)
Up to two adults & camping gear – plans $75
The Eureka is the closest you can get to a classic canoe shape in a
plywood boat. Traditional shapes give the easiest paddling and just
keep going when the water gets rough. The Eureka can be built
down to weights of around 15kg (34lbs)

Handy Punt
11’6” x 4’ x <100lbs (3.5 x 1.2 x <47kg)
Up to 3 adults and child – plans $80
The Handy Punt is a simple punt. Stable for fishing it can take
outboards up to 15hp, but 6 to 10hp is more normal! Narrow
enough to rooftop so the towbar is free for the caravan.

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