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Garage Workbench Plans

Every home woodworker knows the importance of making efficient use of the available space in his or
her shop. This workbench is designed to provide the maximum functionality using the minimum
amount of space possible. It provides a work surface of about six feet by two feet and is about 35” in
height. Just the right size to provide ample work space for most projects.

The features that make this workbench ideal for the home shop are the built in clamping system, the
built in router table, the nine drawers, the center cabinet space, and the mobility. The four inch casters
enable you to easily roll it into position when needed and roll it aside when it is not in use.

The top surface is made of two layers of 3/4” MDF. This provides an extremely flat work surface and
since it is also a router table, a flat work surface is a must. The T-track inlaid in the top and around the
edges makes the entire work surface a versatile clamping system that easily clamps very small or very
large work pieces.

Copyright © 2006 by Robert E. Reedy


All Rights Reserved
This document may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the author.
Table of Contents - 1

Dimensions Drawings

Materials List - 1 ......................................................................................................x


Materials List - 2 ......................................................................................................x
End and Center Panels ............................................................................................. 1
Base Dimensions & Layout ..................................................................................... 2
Back Dimensions & Layout .................................................................................... 3
Top Dimensions & Layout ...................................................................................... 4
Sub Top Dimensions & Layout .............................................................................. 5
Top Trim and T-Track ............................................................................................. 6
Drawer Slides, Stiffener, Misc. Small Parts ............................................................ 7
Drawer Fronts, Front Trim, and Doors ................................................................... 8
Drawer Boxes Dimensions ...................................................................................... 9
Router Bit Trays .................................................................................................... 10
Middle Shelf .......................................................................................................... 11
Table of Contents - 2

Assembly Instructions

Drawer Slides - Left Section - Left Panel ............................................................. 12


Drawer Slides - Left Section - Right Panel ........................................................... 13
Drawer Slides - Center Section - Left Panel ......................................................... 14
Drawer Slides - Center Section -Right Panel ........................................................ 15
Drawer Slides - Right Section - Left Panel ........................................................... 16
Drawer Slides - Right Section - Right Panel ......................................................... 17
Base to Panels ........................................................................................................ 18
Stiffener - Casters .................................................................................................. 19
Attach the Back ..................................................................................................... 20
Router Box Bottom & Shelf .................................................................................. 21
Router Box Front ................................................................................................... 22
Assemble the Face Frame ...................................................................................... 23
Attach the Face Frame ........................................................................................... 24
Attach the Leveling Blocks to the Panels .............................................................. 25
Attach the Front & Rear Leveling Blocks ............................................................. 26
Attach the Sub Top ................................................................................................ 27
Attach the Inner Trim ............................................................................................ 28
Attach the Middle Trim ......................................................................................... 29
Attach the Top ....................................................................................................... 30
Attach the Track to the Top ................................................................................... 31
Attach the Track to the Front & Ends ................................................................... 32
Attach the Lower Trim .......................................................................................... 33
Assemble the Drawer Boxes & Fronts .................................................................. 34
Assemble the Router Trays ................................................................................... 35
Attach Cabinet Doors ............................................................................................ 36
Attach Middle Door trim ....................................................................................... 37
Clamping System Parts ......................................................................................... 38
Assemble the EZ Mount Stop ............................................................................... 39
Clamping System Usage Instructions .................................................................... 40
Clamping System Illustrations .............................................................................. 41
Snapshots ............................................................................................................... 42
Tools and Accessories You’ll Need
Note: Images and underlined text are active web links.

Mast-R-Lift is precision-engineered to within .002" tolerance


and CNC-machined from 1" solid aluminum to eliminate bend-
ing and sagging.

Built-in insert adjusters allow for snugging the lift in your table
for a perfect fit, while the built-in leveling system will not wear
into the table's recessed opening

Plate measures 9-1/4" x 11-3/4" x 3/8". Adjustments are made


with a drop-in speed handle that's elevated from the table.

Low Cost Lift for Plunge Routers Rockler/JessEm Lift Large Router Plate

Low Cost Router Fence 4 Piece Router Accessory kit Kreg Master System

Mini Pocket Hole Jig T-Track Kit Hold Down Clamp Kit Shop Casters
Materials List - 1

Qty Size Material Item name


2 29 1/4” by 19” 3/4” Oak Plywood End Panels
2 28 1/4” by 18 1/4” 3/4” Plywood Middle Panels
1 66 1/2” by 19” 3/4” Plywood Base
1 66 1/2” by 28 1/4” 3/4” Plywood Back
1 72” by 24” 3/4” MDF Board Top
1 68” by 19 3/4” 3/4” MDF Board Sub Top
2 69 1/2” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood or Plywood 1st Front & Back Sub Top Trim
2 21 1/4” ” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood or Plywood 1st End Sub Top Trim
2 71” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood or Plywood 2nd Front & Back Sub Top Trim
2 22 3/4” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood or Plywood 2nd End Sub Top Trim
2 36” 1/2” by 3/4” T-Track Front T-Track
5 24” 1/2” by 3/4” T-Track End & Top T-Track
1 72” by 3/4” by 1/2” 1/2” Thick MDF or Wood Front Lower T-Track Trim
2 24” by 3/4” by 1/2” 1/2” Thick MDF or Wood End Lower T-Track Trim
17 18 1/4” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood Drawer Supports
5 6” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood Small Drawer Supports
10 18 1/4” by 2 1/2” 3/4” Wood Drawer Side Guides
2 6” by 2 1/2” 3/4” Wood Small Drawer Side Guides
4 18 1/4” by 3” 3/4” Wood Lower Drawer Side Guides
6 18 1/4” by 2” 3/4” Wood Lower Drawer Supports
2 14 1/2” by 2” 3/4” Wood Lower Back Supports
1 27 1/2” by 2” 3/4” Wood Center Lower Back Support
4 17 1/2” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood 17 1/2” Leveling Block
3 16 3/4” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood 16 3/4” Leveling Block
2 30” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood 30” Leveling Block
1 10 1/4” by 1 1/2” 3/4” Wood 10 1/4” Leveling Block
1 66 1/2” 2 by 4 (3 1/2” by 1 1/2”) Stiffener
6 16” by 1 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Drawer Trim
2 29 1/4” by 1 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Vertical End Trim
1 30” by 1 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Middel Trim
x
Materials List - 2

Qty Size Material Item name


2 23 1/4” by 1 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Vertical Divider Trim
2 65” by 3” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Upper & Lower Trim
1 3 1/2” by 30 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Center Drawer Front
2 3 1/2” by 16 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Top Drawer Front
2 4 1/2” by 16 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 4 1/2” Drawer Front
2 5 1/4” by 16 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 5 1/4” Drawer Front
2 7” by 16 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 7” Drawer Front
2 19” by 14 3/4” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Cabinet Doors
1 3/4” thick wood or plywood Door Lip
1 17 1/2” by 11 1/2” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Router Box Front
6 19” by 2 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Top Drawer Sides
4 19” by 3 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 3 7/8” Drawer Sides
4 19” by 4 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 4 7/8” Drawer Sides
4 19” by 6 5/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 6 5/8” Drawer Sides
2 28 3/8” by 2 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Center Drawer Ends
4 14 3/8” by 2 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Top Drawer Ends
4 14 3/8” by 3 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 3 7/8” Drawer Ends
4 14 3/8” by 4 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 4 7/8” Drawer Ends
4 14 3/8” by 6 5/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 6 5/8” Drawer Ends
1 29 1/8” by 18 1/4” 1/4” Hardboard Center Drawer Bottom
6 15 1/8”” by 18 1/4” 1/4” Hardboard Drawer Bottom
2 6” by 2 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood Top Router Tray Sides
2 6” by 3 7/8” 3/4” thick wood or plywood 2nd Router Bit Trays
2 14 7/8” by 6” 1/2” thick material Router Bit Trays
2 14 7/8” by 6” 1/4” thick material Router Bit Bottoms
1 18 1/4” by 30” 3/4” plywood Middle Shelf

xi
End and Center Panels
Page 1

End Panel Middle Panels


(2 Required) (2 Required)

29 1/4" 28 1/4"

19" 18 1/4"

The two end panels are 1" taller than the center panels. This is because the
center panels sit on the top surface of the base and the end panels extend 1/4"
below the bottom surface of the base..

The end panels are also 3/4" wider than the center panels. This is so they will
be flush with the ends of the back section.

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Base Dimensions & Layout
Page 2

2" 2"
18 5/8" 18 5/8"

9 1/2"
9 1/2"
Base

19"
3/8" 3/8"

2" 2"

10" 9 1/4" 9 1/4" 3/8" 9 1/4" 9 1/4" 10"


66 1/2"

Cut the base from 3/4" material, then drill and countersink holes for #8 screws as shown in
the drawing above. All the screws around the edge are 3/8" from the edge.

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Back Dimensions & Layout
Page 3

3/4"

17 1/2" 30 3/4" 17 1/2"

Back

22"
28 1/4"

17 1/8"

10"
1 1/4"
66 1/2"

Cut the back from 3/4" material, then drill and countersink holes for #8 screws as shown in
the drawing above.

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Router Plate Cutout

10 1/4"
This drawing is based on a 9 1/4" by 11 3/4" router plate. If you
are using a different size plate, you will need to adjust the size of
the opening accordingly. The router plate opening is a two step 10 1/8"
process. You must cut an inner opening that leaves room for a

7 3/4"
3/4" wide lip around all four edges. This lip is what the router

24"
plate rests upon.

First, cut the inner opening completely through the top. If you're
using a 9 1/4" by 11 3/4" router plate, this inner opening should
be 7 3/4" by 10 1/4". The next step is to use your router to create
the lip around the sides of the opening. See the detailed 10 1/8"
instructions on the following page for this step.

72"
17"

T-Track & Miter Slot Cutout Dimensions


6 3/4"
Page 4

Fence T- Track Slot


T- Track Slot
The T-Track and miter gauge
slot dimensions are based on the
10"

center of the slots. However, the


Top Dimensions and Layout

exact location of these items is


T-Track sizes vary from strictly a matter of personal
brand to brand. The choice.
most common sizes are

24"
3/4" wide by 1/2" deep If you will be using a
or 3/4" wide by 3/8" readymade router fence,
deep. Cut the slots so you may need to change

CopyrightC 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


the track you're using is the spacing of the fence Miter Guage Slot
flush with the top track slots to match
7"

surface.
30 1/2"

your fence.

6"
24"
68"
18"
8 3/4"
Router Box
Sub Top Cutout

19 3/4"
Note: This diagram is based on a 9 1/4" by 11 3/4" router plate.
If you are using a different size plate, be sure to adjust the opening size accordingly.

15 5/8"

Copyright
8"

C
Drill and counter screwholes for #8 flathead screws in the locations shown below.
Page 5

19 3/8"
14 5/8"
14 5/8"
19 3/8"

3"
1 1/8"
3"

10"
Sub Top
Sub Top Dimensions and Layout

Router Box
Screw Hole Layout Cutout

2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


1 1/8"
Screw Hole Layout 1 1/8"
10"

3"
1 1/8"
3"

3" 3"
9 1/2"

9 1/2"
16"

16"
26"

26"
Top Trim &T-Track
Page 6

The Sub Top trim is made of 3/4" thick by 1 1/2" high material. This because the T-Track is 1/2" by 3/4".
45° 45°
1st Front & Back Sub Top Trim (2 Required)
69 1/2"

1 1/2"
45° 45° 45° 2nd End Sub Top Trim (2 Required) 45°
1st End Sub Top Trim (2 Required)
21 1/4" 22 3/4"

1 1/2"
1 1/2"
45° 2nd Front & Back Sub Top Trim (2 Required) 45°

71"

1 1/2"
If you have a pocket hole jig, I reccommend drilling pocket holes in the 2nd Sub Top Trim pieces as shown. These pocket holes will be
used to secure the Top to the Sub Top. The exact location of the pocket holes is not critical. The important thing is that they do not line up
with the screw holes in your T-Track. If you do not have a pocket hole jig, the Top can be secured with finishing nails or glue.

Front T-Track (2 Required) End T-Track (2 Required)

35 1/2" 23 1/4"

The T-Track trim is made of 1/2" thick by 3/4" high material. This because the T-Track is 1/2" by 3/4".
45° Front T-Track Trim (1 Required) 45°

3/4" 72"

45° End T-Track Trim (2 Required) 45°

3/4" 23 3/4"
Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio
Drawer Slides / Stiffener / Misc Small Parts
Page 7

Small Drawer Supports (5)

1 1/2" Drawer Supports (17) 1 1/2"


18 1/4" 6"

Small Drawer Side Guides (2)

2 1/2" Drawer Side Guides (10) 2 1/2"

18 1/4" 6"

Stiffener (Make the stiffener from 1 1/2" thick material)


3" Lower Drawer Side Guides (4) 2" Lower Drawer Supports (6)
18 1/4" 18 1/4"

66 1/2"

2" Lower Back Supports (2) 2" Center Lower Back Supports (1)
14 1/2" 27 1/2"

1 1/2" 17 1/2" Leveling Blocks (4) 1 1/2" 16 3/4" Leveling Blocks (3)
17 1/2" 16 3/4"

10 1/4" Leveling Block (1)


1 1/2" 30" Leveling Blocks (2) 1 1/2"
30" 10 1/4"

3 1/2"

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Drawer Fronts, Front Trim, and Doors
Page 8

1 1/2" Drawer Trim (6) 1 1/2" Vertical End Trim (2)


16" 29 1/4"

1 1/2" Middle Trim (1) 1 1/2" Vertical Divider Trim (2)


30" 23 1/4"

3" Upper & Lower Trim (2)

65"

2" Middle Door Trim (1)


18 1/2"

Drawer Fronts Dimensions Router Box Dimensions


3 1/2"

Center Drawer Front (1)

30 1/2"

4 1/2" 11 1/2" Router Box Bottom (1)


3 1/2"

Top Drawer Fronts (2) 4 1/2" Drawer Fronts (2)

16 1/2" 16 1/2" 16"

5 1/4" 5 1/4" Drawer Fronts (2)

16 1/2" 17 1/2"

Cabinet Doors (2)


19"

Router Box Front (1)


11 1/2"

7" 7" Drawer Fronts (2)


3/4"
1"

16 1/2" 14 3/4"

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Drawer Boxes Dimensions
Page 9

3 7/8"
2 7/8"
3 7/8" Drawer Sides (4)
Top Drawer Sides (6)

Detail View - Drawer Bottom Cutout


19" 19"

6 5/8" 6 5/8" Drawer Sides (4)


4 7/8" Drawer Sides (4) 1/4"
4 7/8"
3/8"
19" 19"

1/4"
2 7/8" 2 7/8"

Center Drawer Ends (2) Top Drawer Ends (4)

28 3/8" 14 3/8"

3 7/8"
6 5/8" Drawer Ends (4)
4 7/8" Drawer Ends (4) 6 5/8"
3 7/8" Drawer Ends (4) 4 7/8"

14 3/8" 14 3/8" 14 3/8"

Center Drawer Bottom (1)


Drawer Bottoms (6)
18 1/4" 18 1/4"

29 1/8" 15 1/8"

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Router Bit Trays
Page 10

6" 2 7/8"

Top Router Tray Sides (End View)

2nd Router Tray Sides (End View)


1 1/2"
Top Router Tray Sides (2)
1/2" 2 1/2"
6" 3 7/8"

3 7/8"
3 7/8" 1/2"

2nd Router Tray Sides (2)


1/4" 1/4"

The tray sides are made from 3/4" material. The heights of
the sides are 2 7/8" and 3 7/8" respectively. This provides
1/8" of top clearance in the drawer openings. 1/4" 1/4"

Cut 1/2" wide by 1/4" deep slots for the router trays in the sides as
shown. Then cut a 1/4" rabbit on the bottom of each side as shown. The
1/4" rabbits are for the bottoms. The bottoms are necessary so the router
bits cannot protude past the bottom of the drawer opening.

Router Bit Tray (2) Router Bit Tray - Bottom (2)

1/2" thick material 6" 1/4" thick material

14 7/8" 14 7/8"

Cut two 6" by 14 7/8" router bits trays from


1/2" thick material and two bottoms from
1/4" thick material as shown above.

Drill several 1/4" and 1/2" holes for your


router bits in the 1/2" thick sections. The
exact location of the holes is strictly a matter
of preference. I put the holes about 1 1/2"
apart in the prototype.

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Middle Shelves Dimensions
Page 11

Middle Shelf
18 1/4"

30"

2 3/4" Lower Track Support (2)

18"
(Lower Track Support is made of 1 1/2" thick material.)

1" Lower Track Trim (2)

18"

(Lower Track Trim is made of 1/2" thick material.)

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Attach Drawer Slides Left Section - Left Panel
Page 12

19"

3"

k
B loc
l in g
ve
Le
ort
upp 4"
S
er
5" D raw e
Gu id
e
Sid
er
raw
10 1/2" D ort
upp
S
er
r aw
D 5"
17" ide
e Gu
Sid
er
r aw
D rt
po
S up
e r
aw
25 1/4" Dr

6 3/4"
ide
e Gu
Sid
er
aw
Dr
ort
upp
S
er
aw
Dr

ide
e Gu
id
e rS
r aw rt l
e rD po ne
ow up a
L rS P
raw
e
nd
ow
er
D
eft E
L L

1"

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Attach Drawer Slides Left Section - Right Panel
Page 13

18 1/4"

Dr
aw
er
Su
pp
o rt
Dr
aw
er
Sid
e Gu
Dr id e
aw 3"
er
Su
pp
o rt
5"
Dr
aw
er
Sid
e Gu
Dr id e
aw
er
Su
pp 10 1/2"
o rt

Dr
aw
er
Sid
e Gu
Dr id e
aw
er
Su
pp
o rt 17"

Lo
w er
Dr
aw
er
S ide
Lo Gu
w er id e
Dr
aw
25 1/4"
er
S up
po
rt

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Attach Drawer Slides Center Section - Left Panel
Page 14

3"
k
B loc
eling
v
Le

ort 6 1/4"
upp
S
wer
6" a
Dr

ort
upp
13 3/4" S
wer
a 11"
Dr

rt
ppo
Su
26 1/4" wer
a
r Dr
we
Lo
Left Inside Panel

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Attach Drawer Slides Center Section - Right Panel
Page 15

Le
ve
lin
gB
loc
k

Dr
aw
er
S up 6"
po
rt

Dr
aw
er
S up 13 3/4"
po
rt

Lo
we
rD 26 1/4"
raw
er
S up
po
rt
Right Inside Panel

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Attach Drawer Slides - Right Section - Left Panel
Page 16

3" rt
po
up
6 "S 3"
5" ide
e Gu
Sid
6"
ort
pp e
S u u id
6" e G
Sid
10 1/2" er
raw ort
D upp
S
er
4" r aw
D

ide
e Gu
Sid
wer
Dr
a ort
17" upp
S
er
r aw
D

e
Gu id
e
Sid
er
D raw
25 1/4" r rt
we po
Lo up
e rS
D raw
er
L ow

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Attach Drawer Slides Right Section - Right Panel
Page 17

11
1 /2"
Le
ve
ler

6"
L ev
ele
r
6"
S up
3" p ort

6"
S
5"
ide
Gu
id e
6"
S up
Dr p ort
aw
er
Sid
5" Dr e Gu
10 1/2"
aw id e
er
Su
pp
o rt 4"

Dr
aw
er
Sid
e Gu
Dr id e
6 3/4" aw
er
17"
Su
pp
o rt

Lo
w er
Dr
aw
er
S ide
Lo Gu 25 1/4"
w er id e
Dr
aw
er
S up
po
rt

Right Section - Right Panel

1"

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Attach the Panels to the Base
Page 18

17 1/2"

30"

17 1/2"

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Attach theStiffener & Casters to the Base
Page 19

Attach the casters to the base as shown. Then position the stiffener as close
to the front as possible while still allowing clearance for the swival casters
to rotate. Mark the position of the stiffener, then drill about six holes for #8
wood screws through the base. Apply some glue and secure the stiffener to
the base with 2" #8 screws.

The screw heads will be inside cabinet below the drawers so it doesn't
matter if you use flathead or pan head screws..

r
ne
ti ffe
S

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Attach The Back
Page 20

h 1
e wit
bas
and
ls
pane
l
ica n.
vert show
he s
to t ews a
k r
e bac ad sc
h
t the
tt ach 8 fla
A "#
1/2

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Attach the Router Box Bottom & Middle Shelf
Page 21

Attach the router box bottom to the


drawer slides.

Attach the middle shelf to the


supports.
om
B ott
ox
rB
ute
Ro

elf
e Sh
d dl
Mi

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Attach the Router Box Front
Page 22

Attach the router box front to the


router box bottom and to the rear end
surface of the drawer slides.

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Assemble the Face Frame
Page 23

Don't forget! The pocket holes go on


the back side of the face frame.

Assemble the front trim pieces (face frame) as shown. Be sure the horizontal
drawer separator pieces are properly spaced so they line up with the drawer
slides.

The top of each piece of horizontal drawer separator trim should be flush with
the top of a drawer slide.

Pocket holes are the easiest way to join trim or face frames as they are often
called. if you don't have a pocket hole jig, you can use dowel joints.

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Attach the FaceFrame to the Cabinet
Page 24

Attach the assembled face frame to


the cabinet with finishing nails.
Then, countersink and fill the nail
holes with wood putty.

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Attach the Leveling Blocks to the End and Center Panels
Page 25

Now, you are ready to attach the leveling blocks. This is the way you ensure that the top is perfectly flat
when the workbench is completed. First, drill three 1/4" diameter holes completely through each leveling
block, (the two shortest ones only need two holes). The exact location of the holes is not critical. Drill a
hole about 2" from each end and one in the middle of each leveling block. To keep the glue from setting
before you're finished, it's best to attach the end and center panel leveling blocks first and ensure they are
level with each other before attaching the front and rear ones.

Apply some glue to the mating faces and attach the end and center panel
leveling blocks using 1 1/2" #8 pan head screws with flat washers as
shown. Do not tighten the screws yet as the blocks must be leveled first.

After all the blocks are in place, use a


straight edge to ensure the top surfaces of all
the leveling blocks are level with each other.
If you have a four foot level, that would
work great.

The important thing is that the top surfaces


of the leveling blocks be level with each
other. This will provide a flat surface to
mount the sub top to.

When all the blocks are level, tighten the screws and
recheck that they did not move.

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Attach the Front & Rear Leveling Blocks
Page 26

Apply glue to the mating surfaces and attach the front and rear leveling blocks as shown in the diagram.
Use your straight edge to ensure the tops are even with the tops of the end and center leveling blocks.
Then tighten the screws.

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Attach the Sub Top to the Cabinet
Page 27

Attach the Sub Top with 1 1/2" #8


flathead screws. The Sub Top should
be flush to the edges of the cabinet
on all four sides.

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Attach the Inner Sub Top Trim
Page 28

Attach the Inner Sub Top Trim to the Sub Top


with 1 1/2" #8 flathead screws. Be sure the top
of the trim is flush with the top surface of the
Sub Top.

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Attach the Middle Trim to the Inner Sub Top Trim
Page 29

Attach the Middle Sub Top Trim to the Inner Sub Top
Trim with 1 1/2" #8 flathead screws. Be sure to space
these screws so they don't interfere with the screws in
the inner trim or the T-Track which will be attched to the
Middle Sub Top trim. The pocket holes will be used to
attach the edges of the top to the trim.

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Attach the Top to the Sub Top
Page 30

Attach the Top to the Sub Top with 1" #8 flathead screws through the cutouts for the T-Track and Miter
guage track. Secure the edges of the top with pocket hole screws through the holes you drilled through
the Inner Sub Top Trim. If you don't have a pocket hole jig, you can glue the Top to the Sub Top.
However, gluing it will make it much more difficult to replace the top in the future if you need to.

Note: The dimensions given in these plans are


based using T-Track that is 3/4" wide and 1/2"
thick. If your T-Track is a different size, you will
need to modify the thickness of the inner trim
accordingly.

Pocket Hole Screws

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Attach the T-Track & Miter track to the Top
Page 31

Attach the T-Track to the top as shown with 1" #6 screws. Some manufacturers countersink the holes for
mounting the track and others do not. From my experience, I prefer flathead screws with countersunk
holes. This keeps the screw heads from interfering with the bolts sliding through the track. The track I
used for the prototype was designed for pan head screws, so I countersunk them on my drill press.

The miter guage track is not subject to much stress so you can glue it in the slot. If you use screws, be
sure the screw heads are below the surface so the miter guage does not hang up on them. I would not
reccommend polyurethane glues because they expand as they set up. The expanding glue would lift the
miter track up above the surface of the workbench top. A construction adhesive like liquid nails works
fine.

Top T-Track

Miter Guage Track

Attach the Lower Track Support to the left side


of the cabinet with six 2" #8 flathead screws.
Position this piece so it is 1" below the Sub Top
Trim and centered front to back.

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Attach the T-Track to the Edges of the Front and Ends
Page 32

Attach the edge T-Track on each end and along the front to the middle Sub Top Trim with 1" #6 screws.
Position this T-Track under the bottom surface of the Top as shown in the detail drawing.

T-Track joins at the corners like


this so you can slide the bolts in
and out. End T-Track

Detail

End T-Track

Front T-Track

Attach the Lower T-Track to the Lower T-Track


Support. The T-Track should be centered top to
bottom.

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Attach the Lower Front Trim to the Front and Ends
Page 33

Attach the Lower Top Trim on each end and along the front to the middle Sub Top Trim with 1 1/2"
finishing nails.

If you cut the top a little larger than the dimensions called for, you can trim it with your router and a
flush trimming bit. Use the Lower Top Trim for the bit bearing to follow.

The Lower Top Trim joins at


the corners like this.

Detail

Lower Trim

Lower Trim

Attach the Lower Track Trim with finishing


nails.

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Assemble the Drawers
Page 34

Apply a little glue to the mating surfaces and assemble the drawer boxes.
Left Side

Right Side

Back

Front

Step 1 Step 2 Step 3


Assemble the front, back, and right side with finishing nails as shown in Step 1.
Insert the bottom as shown in Step 2. Attach the left side as shown in Step 3.

Step 4 Step 5

Support the drawer boxes with 1/4" thick strips of wood and attach the drawer fronts
with 1 1/8" screws as shown. This is necessary because the bottom of the front must
be 1/4" below the bottom of the box so it will overlap the rear cabinet trim when
installed.

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Assemble the Router Bit Trays
Page 34

Assemble the Router trays with finishing nails as shown above.

Attach the drawer fronts to the router tray fronts with pocket hole screws on each side as shown.
Don't forget to support the trays with 1/4" thick strips of wood while you attach the fronts. As with
the drawers, the bottom of the fronts must be 1/4" below the bottom of the trays so the fronts will
overlap the cabinet trim when installed.

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Attach the Cabinet Doors
Page 36

Attach the cabinet doors so the tops align with the tops of the
drawers and the sides align with the ends of the middle drawer as
shown above.

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Attach the Middle Door trim
Page 37

Attach the Middle Door Lip to the back of either of the cabinet
doors so half of it is visible as shown. Attach it to the back of the
door with a couple of 1" wood screws. The left door is not
pictured in the drawing for clarity.

This piece serves as a door lip so there is no visible gap between


the doors.

Now, you're ready to attach the Drawer and Door handles and your work bench is finished.

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Clamping System Parts
Page 38

3/8" Button Hole

5/16" Bolt Hole 3/8" Button Hole

2 3/4" 2"
2" Clamp Jaws (2)
3 1/2 "
4 1/2"
Clamp Jaw Layout (Side 1) Clamp Jaw Layout (Side 2)

5/8"

1 1/2"
3" 3"

End View
3 1/2"
Rear Stop 2 3/4"
Dia - 5/16"

24" 1 1/2"

1 3/4" 1 3/4"
2" EZ Clamp Stop
Dia - 5/16"
28"

Drill two pocket holes in each Post as shown below. Next, drill two
1/4" diameter holes in the end of each Post as shown. (The 1/4" holes
2" Post (2) 2" Jaws (2)
should only be 1/2" deep.)
2 1/2" 4"

1/2"

Drill a 5/16" bolt through each jaw as 3/8"


shown. Next, drill two 5/16" holes for the 2 1/4"
dowel pins in each Jaw as shown. (The
dowel pin holes are 5/16" diameter so the Dia - 5/16" 1/2"
Jaws can pivot over the pins. These holes
should be 1/2" deep.)
Posts Jaws

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Assemble the EZ Mount Stop
Page 39

Attach the Posts to the ends of the Stop Bar with pocket hole screws as
shown below. Next, cut four 7/8" long dowel pins from 1/4" dowel
rod. Apply some glue and insert a 1/4" dowel pin into each hole in the
ends of the Posts. (The dowel pins should protude about 3/8" from the
ends of the Posts.)

Place the Jaws over the protuding dowel pins as shown above. (Do not
glue the dowel pins to the Jaws as the Jaws must be allowed to pivot
in order to work as clamps.) Insert a 5/16 carriage bolt through the
holes as shown. (The carriage bolt should be 5" long. Secure the
pieces with a flat washer and knob.

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Clamping System Usage
Page 40

The T-Track clamping system provides a flexible way of clamping both large and small
work pieces. Most work pieces can be clamped using the two Clamp Jaws and the Rear
Stop. The Clamp Jaws are used with the T-Track that runs along the front edge of the
workbench. The Rear Stop is used with the T-Track that is embedded in the top surface of
the workbench.

For longer workpieces, you can use the the Clamp Jaws with the T-Track on the ends of the
workbench. The EZ Mount Stop may be secured anywhere along the workbench top. The
simple clamps on each end of the EZ Mount Stop grip the edge of the workbench top as
well as C-Clamps. This feature enables you to use the workbench as a large bar clamp for
gluing up boards.

You can make the clamping system grip the work piece even tighter by gluing strips of 100
grit sandpaper along the edges that contact the workpiece. The sandpaper requires much
less force than the surface of bare wood.

The button arrangement on the Clamp Jaws allows you to filp the Clamp Jaws over for
thicker work pieces. The drawings on the next two pages illustrates how the clamps work.

To clamp a work piece, position the workpiece so the edge protudes slightly over the edge
of the workbench top as shown. Then, position the Rear Stop against the workpiece and
tighten it to T-Track using the knobs. Next, tighten the Clamp Jaws against the workpiece
with the knobs and your work piece will be clamped just like with a vice.

For thinner workpieces, position the Clamp Jaws and Rear Stop as shown. If your
workpiece is thinner than 3/4", you can place strips of wood under the work piece so it is
slightly higher than the top edges of the Clamp Jaws.

For thicker workpieces, flip the Clamp Jaws so the second button is against the Lower
T-Track Trim and reverse the Rear Stop so the thicker edge is against the workpiece.

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Using the Clamps
Page 41

For thinner workpieces, position the Clamp Jaws and Rear Stop as shown.
Second Button

Rear Stop Clamp Jaw


Workpiece

Button

T-Track

For thicker workpieces, flip the Clamp Jaw so the second button is against the Lower T-Track Trim
and reverse the Rear Stop so the thicker edge is against the workpiece.
Button

Clamp Jaw
Workpiece
Rear Stop

Second Button

T-Track

Copyright C 2006 by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Clamping Long Workpieces
Page 41

To clamp long work pieces, use the


Clamping Jaws and EZ Mount Stop as
shown.

Copyright c by Robert E. Reedy, Vandalia, Ohio


Snapshots

Clamping a small work piece Clamping a large work piece Clamping a thick work piece

Close up view of the Woodpeckers Quick-Lift.


Clamp a large work piece
Hold down clamps.

Clamping a work light. Arranging the jaws for use with the EZ Mount Stop.
The purple edge is the 100 grit sandpaper used to
make the stop grip the work piece tighter.

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