Ultimate:

Formulation
Cheat Sheet
GUIDELINES FOR FORMULATING CREAMS,
LOTIONS, BODY BUTTERS, BALMS,
LOTION BARS & WHIPPED BUTTERS

by Cosmetic Science Academy

 MAKING SKINCARE CHEAT SHEET
EMULSIONS ANHYDROUS PRODUCTS
LOTION BALM
Added % Added %
Phase Raw Material Phase Raw Material
w/w w/w
A 78.5 Water A Water
A 3 Humectant A Humectant
A 0.3 Gum A Gum
B 4 Emulsifier B Emulsifier
B 3 Thickener B Thickener
B 10 Oil B 79.5 Oil
B 0 Butter B Butter
B 0 Wax B 20 Wax
C 1 preservative C preservative
C 0.2 Antioxidant C 0.5 Antioxidant
Total 100 Total 100
CREAM LOTION BAR
Added % Added %
Phase Raw Material Phase Raw Material
w/w w/w
A 71.5 Water A Water
A 4 Humectant A Humectant
A 0.3 Gum A Gum
B 5 Emulsifier B Emulsifier
B 3 Thickener B Thickener
B 12 Oil B 36.5 Oil
B 3 Butter B 37 Butter
B 0 Wax B 26 Wax
C 1 preservative C preservative
C 0.2 Antioxidant C 0.5 Antioxidant
Total 100 Total 100
BODY BUTTER BODY BUTTER (WHIPPED)
Added % Added %
Phase Raw Material Phase Raw Material
w/w w/w
A 57.5 Water A Water
A 6 Humectant A Humectant
A 0.3 Gum A Gum
B 7 Emulsifier B Emulsifier
B 4 Thickener B Thickener
B 12 Oil B 24.5 Oil
B 12 Butter B 75 Butter
B 0 Wax B Wax
C 1 preservative C preservative
C 0.2 Antioxidant C 0.5 Antioxidant
Total 100 Total 100

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 EMULSION METHOD
Weigh water and place in a heat-proof
container.
Combine glycerine and xanthan gum
to form a slurry and slowly mix into the
water while stirring.
Weigh phase B ingredients and place in
a heat-proof container.
Set both containers into water-bath and
heat to 75 - 80C.
When both phases are at the same
temperature, pour phase B into phase A
under high shear mixing until a
homogenous emulsion is formed.
For small batches, up to 400g, you can
use a hand whisk to emulsify your
cream/lotion.
For larger batches, use an immersion
blender, but ensure the blade is completely
covered to avoid introducing too much air.
Let cool to below 40C before adding phase C.
Continue cooling to 25C and then check and
adjust pH before packaging.
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ANHYDROUS PRODUCTS METHOD
Place ingredients in a heat-proof container.
Set container into a water-bath and heat to
80°C until melted.
Remove from the water-bath and cool to 50C
under Stirring.
Add antioxidant and mix well.
For balms, pour into appropriate packaging,
and lotion bars into moulds or sticks.
For whipped body butter, use an electric hand
whisk and beat until light and fluffy.
INGREDIENT INFORMATION
Humectants: Glycerin, panthanol,
propanediol, hyaluronic acid etc…
Gum: Xanthan gum, sclerotium gum etc…
Emulsifier: Polawax, Cetearyl Glucoside &
Cetearyl Alcohol – (check manufacturers
recommended usage).
Thickener: Cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol.
Oil: Use one or several oils at the % shown.
Butter: Use butter of choice.
Wax: Beeswax. You can use a vegan wax of
your choice but you may need to adjust the %
used depending on melting point of the wax
you choose.
Preservative: All products containing water
must contain a broad-spectrum preservative.
Use a preservative of your choice but ensure
you follow the manufacturers
recommendations.
© 2018 COSMETIC SCIENCE ACADEMY | ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
 YOUR FORMULATION YOUR FORMULATION
COMPLETE THE EDITABLE FORM FIELDS COMPLETE THE EDITABLE FORM FIELDS
Added % Added %
Phase Raw Material Your Choice Phase Raw Material Your Choice
w/w w/w
A Water A Water
A Humectant A Humectant
A Gum A Gum
B Emulsifier B Emulsifier
B Thickener B Thickener
B Oil B Oil
B Butter B Butter
B Wax B Wax
C preservative C preservative
C Antioxidant C Antioxidant
Total Total

YOUR FORMULATION METHOD YOUR FORMULATION METHOD

www.cosmeticscienceacademy.com © 2018 COSMETIC SCIENCE ACADEMY | ALL RIGHTS RESERVED