DETOXI-LOOK®

[ The Radiant
Detoxifier ]

Everlasting and Daisy complex

Detoxify
‘‘Happy skin
for
Brighten
a happy look!

’’
Moisturize
CONTEXT
When the skin reflects less light, the complexion is dull and
lacks radiance. Characterized by marked, tired-looking features,
dehydrated skin, often accompanied by color irregularities
such as redness or dark spots, loss of radiance actually
reveals deeper troubles. These dysfunctions are due to the
skin’s inability to mobilise its own defence and detoxification
systems when faced with an accumulation of pollutants,
either from the outside or produced intrinsically. Metabolism,
natural aging, UV rays, poor living hygiene, stress and smoking
but also environmental pollution are the major causes of this
accumulation, sources of strong oxidation and inflammation.
Beyond the loss of radiance, this accumulation of pollutants
within cells and tissues directly results in accelerating ageing.
DEFINITION
Detoxi-Look® is a plant complex obtained by cold co-pressing of two “light” flowers, radiating beauty, EVERLASTING
(Helichrysum italicum) and DAISY (Bellis perennis), stabilized with vegetable glycerin.
Mother Nature has done well by offering these two beautiful flowers a bright yellow color. Considered as the color of the sun
and joy, it is radiant and thus illuminates beauty. Warm and stimulating but also very powerful, this color fits perfectly with
Detoxi-Look®, the radiant detoxifier!
EVERLASTING, THE "GOLDEN SUN"
Everlasting takes its name from the fact
that once picked, it dries without
ever fading; from the Latin
"Helychrisum italicum", it still
beautifies under the name
of GOLDEN SUN (Helios
meaning sun and Chrysos
meaning gold). Celebrated
by Apollo, the Greek God
of Light, he loved to wear
a crown of these flowers
to remind everyone of
his immortality. According
to Homer's Odyssey, we
owe the discovery of its
first benefits to Princess
Nausicaa when she saved
Ulysses, rubbing him with these
everlasting flowers.
The very popular concept of a “detox cure” can be applied
to the skin to quickly rid it of accumulated pollutants that
asphyxiate it. In a lasting way, stimulating the natural skin
depollution processes enables protecting it more effectively
against any kind of pollution and slowing down the ageing
process. At the same time, to revive lost radiance, it is
important to make the complexion more even by regulating
the mechanisms causing redness and dark spots. Moisturizing
thoroughly is also a quick first step towards brighter skin.
DAISY, THE “BEAUTY FOREVER”
Daisy loves the sun and light. During
the night or rainy days, it closes
on itself to better flourish
again during the day in
the sunshine. A flower
of joyful awakenings, it
is associated with the
expression “As fresh
as a daisy”, meaning
a person full of
energy with a glowing
complexion. This
corresponds perfectly
to its Latin name,
Bellis perennis, which
etymologically means
“Beautiful forever“.
MODE OF ACTION

To enhance the radiance of all skin types, even the dullest, Detoxi-Look®:
Detoxify
DETOXIFIES by stimulating the key enzymes of the skin's #1 detoxification
1. system
HAPPY SKIN,
BRIGHTENS by correcting hyperpigmentation and lightening skin tone HAPPY LOOK!
2. by inhibiting the synthesis of melanin but also by reducing redness by
stimulating endothelin-1
Brighten Moisturize
3. MOISTURIZES, instantly refreshing the complexion

PERFORMANCE

1. DETOXIFY

▪ ▪ S t i m u l a t i on of t he sk in' s #1 detox if ication system

Due to a decrease in age-related skin defence capabilities or an overload of pollutants accumulating in the tissues, the key
cell detoxification system is very often overwhelmed. Strong stimulation is then necessary to enable it to fully recover its
protective efficacy.
This system is a very well organized enzymatic system:

▪▪ The Phase I enzymes, the most common of which is Cytochrome Detoxifying system
P450 (CYP450), make the pollutants functional by binding one or
more polar groups (PG) to them, getting them more hydrophilic
and accessible to Phase II enzymes.
Nucleus
▪▪ The Phase II enzymes, in particular UDP-GlucuronylTransferases
(UGT), combine the polar group of the pollutant with a polar Pollutant
co-factor such as glucuronic acid (UDPGA), thus modifying the
chemical structure of the pollutants and transforming them into
non-toxic substances.
▪▪ The Phase III enzymes, such as P-Glycoproteins, are responsible for
Cytoplasm
excreting non-toxic molecules out of the cells.

Ex vivo study on skin explants treated with a topical application at D0, D2 and D4 with 0.5% DETOXI-LOOK® vs. Placebo or vs.
Untreated control. At D5, quantification of the area occupied by immunolabeled Cytochrome P450 (key enzyme of Phase I) and
UDP-GlucuronylTransferase (key enzyme of Phase II), by microscopy and image analysis.

> CYTOCHROME P450

Placebo 0.5% DETOXI-LOOK® *** p<0.001

+558%***
vs. Placebo

Cytochrome P450 (green)

 > UDP-GLUCURONYLTRANSFERASE
*** p<0.001
Placebo 0.5% DETOXI-LOOK®

+158%***
vs. Placebo

UDP-GlucuronylTransferase (pink)

Detoxi-Look® enables revitalising the skin's #1 detoxification system by stimulating the enzymes of Phase I
and Phase II in unison to rid it of the pollutants that asphyxiate it and thus contributes to reviving its radiance.

2. BRIGHTEN

▪ ▪ In h i b i t i o n o f m e lanin synt he sis (lightening effect)

In vitro study on pigmented human melanocytes incubated for 72 hours in the presence of 0.01% DETOXI-LOOK®, 0.03% DETOXI-LOOK®
or 0.02% kojic acid in the medium vs. Untreated control. Quantification of relative melanin (i.e. relative to the quantity of viable cells)
by reading the optical density (405 nm).

100% **
p<0.01
vs. Control
Quantity of relative melanin (%)

90%
-17%** -18%** -18%**
80% The lightening potential of Detoxi-Look® is
70%
equivalent to that of kojic acid. It helps to
brighten the complexion by making it more
60% even.

50%
Untreated control 0.01% DETOXI-LOOK® 0.03% DETOXI-LOOK® 0.02% kojic acid

▪ ▪ S t i m u l a t i o n of e ndot he lin- 1 (vasoconstrictor effect)

In vitro study on human microvascular endothelial cells, incubated for 24 hours in the presence of 0.1% DETOXI-LOOK® and 1% DETOXI-
LOOK® in the medium vs. Untreated control. Quantification of synthesized endothelin-1 (expressed in pg/ng of total proteins) using an
Elisa kit.
14,000 +39.5%* *
p<0.05
+30.4%* vs. Control
12,000
Quantity of endothelin-1

10,000
(pg/mg of proteins)

8,000
By stimulating this natural vasoconstrictor,
6,000
Detoxi-Look® enables regulating the
4,000 microcirculation and therefore limits the
2,000 diffusion and visibility of redness (more
0 even complexion).
Untreated control 0.1% DETOXI-LOOK® 1% DETOXI-LOOK®
 3. MOISTURIZE

In vivo study on 19 volunteers, single application to the arms at T0 of a cream containing 1% DETOXI-LOOK® or a Placebo vs. Untreated
control. Evaluation of the level of hydration by corneometry before application, then 2h, 4h and 6h after application.

Placebo 1% DETOXI-LOOK®
*
p<0.05
***
p<0.001
16% +14.8%***
14%
Δ Hydration vs. Control (%)

12%
+10.4%* +10.3%*
Only 2 hours after application:
10% Detoxi-Look® significantly moisturizes
8% the skin. Thorough moisturizing
6% * instantly refreshes the complexion.
4% This is the first step towards a brighter
2% skin!
0%
2h 4h 6h

BEAUTY BENEFIT: A FRESH AND RADIANT COMPLEXION

In vivo study on 50 volunteers, heavy smokers (15 cigarettes/day). Twice-daily application to the face of a cream containing 1%
DETOXI-LOOK® for 28 days. Self-evaluation.

With Detoxi-Look® the radiance of the complexion, even on the dullest skin, is enhanced:

72%* "MY COMPLEXION IS FRESHER"

"MY SKIN IS LESS SENSITIVE TO TIGHTNESS AND DISCOMFORT"

70%* “MY COMPLEXION IS MORE EVEN"

66%* “MY COMPLEXION IS BRIGHTER"

“MY FEATURES ARE SMOOTHED OUT”

*
p<0.05

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
INCI/CTFA name: Glycerin (and) Helichrysum italicum extract (and) Bellis perennis (daisy) flower extract (and) Citric acid
Preservative: 0.15% potassium sorbate
Regulations: Authorized for use in the EU, USA, China (IECIC 2015), Australia and subject to conditions in Canada
Raw material in compliance with COSMOS Standard (approval in progress)
APPLICATIONS

Recommended dose: 1%
Anti-ageing, skin radiance
Detoxifying and anti-pollution
Daily skin care for dull, tired-looking skin
Suitable for make-up applications

FORMULATION
pH stability: 3.0 to 7.0
Soluble at 20% in water, glycerin, 20% alcohol solution, butylene glycol
Thermostability: recommended temperature of 45°C (may be incorporated at a maximum temperature of 70°C but must
not be heated for more than 6h)

Formulation example:

Beautilook Jelly Ingredients INCI name %

ref.: 025701/1
Cleansing gel
DEMINERALIZED WATER Aqua QSP 100

PRESERVATIVE / QSP

GLYCERIN Glycerin 2.00

A BUTYLENE GLYCOL Butylene glycol 4.00

Glycerin / Helichrysum italicum extract / Bellis perennis (daisy)

DETOXI-LOOK® (SOLABIA GROUP) 1.00
flower extract / Citric acid

FDC YELLOW 5 (SENSIENT) CI 19140 (Yellow 5) Qsp

SYNPERONIC L64 (CRODA) Poloxamer 184 3.00

B SOFTIGEN 767 (SASOL) PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides 1.00

PARFUM ESS 18373-02 (NACTIS) Fragrance 0.05

C ULTREZ 21 (LUBRIZOL) Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.25

D SODIUM HYDROXIDE Sodium hydroxide Qsp pH

Contact Us
w w w. s o l a b i a . c o m

SOLABIA GROUP SOLABIA USA SOLABIA BIOTECNOLOGICA SOLABIA GmbH

FRANCE UNITED STATES BRAZIL GERMANY
+33 1 48 10 19 40 +1 212 847 2397 +55 44 3260 8000 +49 681 99 63 606

April 2017
Photos: © iconogenic - www.fotolia.com / © Marnel Tomić - www.fotolia.com / © Leonid Ikan - www.fotolia.com