My Best Foot

Forward
Essays

1
 DISHA
GOPAL
Indo Nordic Author’s Collective
Stockholm Tampere Nagpur Gurugram

MY Best Foot Forward

Essays

DISHA GOPAL
2
 Masters in Fashion Management, National Institute of Fashion Technology, India
Bachelor of Arts(Hons.) Economics, University of Punjab
Category Manager-Brand ADIDAS

Indo Nordic Author’s Collective

Stockholm Tampere Nagpur Gurugram

MOST EXPENSIVE SHOES $ 17 MILLION

JADA DUBAI AND PASSION JEWELERS DIAMOND SHOES

Jada Dubai and Passion Jewelers have collaborated to create theworld’s most expensive
footwear. Stiletto heel pumps are embedded with a pair of 15 carat D grade diamonds.
238 diamonds are used to decorate the trim.
Display at the Burj Al Arab in Dubai. It has taken expert shoemakers 9 months to craft it
from pure gold.

3
4
Images source: jada-dubai.com Read more at: https://www.beautifullife.info/fashion-design/top-20-
expensive-shoes-worlds/

5
 First Edition 2020
Copyright 2020 Disha Gopal and Uday Dokras. All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be
reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, transmitted in any form or by means of electronic, mechanical, photocopy,
micro-film, recording or otherwise, without prior permission of the copyright holder.
ISBN No. applied for. Cost US $150. I N R 1500/- Euro 120.

6
 DISHA GOPAL
Masters in Fashion Management, National Institute of Fashion Technology, India
Bachelor of Arts (Hons.) Economics, University of Punjab
Category Manager-Brand ADIDAS

C O N T E N T S
Dedication Page …7
Acknowledgment Page…11
Introduction by Dr. Uday Dokras page 13
Chapter 1. The History of Footware Page…17
Chapter 2. Ancient Footware of Bharat Page …75
Chapter 3. Reconciling Leather Shoes to Hindu Upbringing page… 141
Chapter 4.Readymage Garments and Leather Vests. page…157
Chapter 5. Indian Leather Industry in a Nutshell. Page..181 Chapter 6. My shoelace Blues. Page.. .198
Chapter 7.Upper and Soul of shoes. Page ..238
Chapter 8. Puss N Boots and Covid Times page …250
Chapter 9.Vegan Leather page 255
Chapter 10 Into the future page 279
Chapter 11 Roller Scates Page 294

7
About the Author. Page 308
Index 309

Hiranmayena pātreṇa satyasyāpihitam mukham | tattvam pūsan apāvrinu

satyadharmāya drishtaye (15)

The face of the truth is covered by golden lid; remove, Oh Sun, that covering
for me, the practitioner of Truth, so that I may behold It- the Paramaatman.

At the feet of my LORD, I present these Padukas

-Disha
8
Gommateshwara statute of Lord Mahavir in Karnataka

9
 The Patron Saint of the Western Cobblers

Saints Crispin and Crispinian are the Christian patron saints of cobblers, curriers, tanners, and
leather workers. They were beheaded during the reign of Diocletian; the date of their execution is
given as 25 October 285 or 286.
Born to a noble Roman family in the 3rd century AD, Crispin and Crispinian fled persecution for
their faith, ending up at Soissons, where they preached Christianity to the Gauls whilst making
shoes by night. While it is stated that they were twin brothers, that has not been positively
proved.They earned enough by their trade to support themselves and also to aid the poor. Their
success attracted the ire of Rictus Varus, governor of Belgic Gaul, who had them tortured and
thrown into the river with millstones around their necks. Though they survived, they were
beheaded by the Emperor c. 285–286.A 16th century legend links them to the town of
Faversham.

10
Veneration
The feast day of Saints Crispin and Crispinian is 25 October. They are the patron saints of
cobblers, glove makers, lace makers, lace workers, leather workers, saddle makers, saddlers,
shoemakers, tanners, and weavers.
The Battle of Agincourt was fought on Saint Crispin's feastday. It has been immortalised by
Shakespeare's St. Crispin's Day Speech from his play Henry V. The Feast of St Crispin's Day
speech is spoken by England's King Henry V in Shakespeare's Henry V history play (act 4 scene
3). The scene is set on the eve of the battle of Agincourt at the English camp in northern France,
which took place on 25 October 1415 (Saint Crispin's Day).

WESTMORLAND. O that we now had here

But one ten thousand of those men in England
That do no work to-day!

KING. What's he that wishes so?

My cousin, Westmorland? No, my fair cousin;
If we are mark'd to die, we are enough
To do our country loss; and if to live,
The fewer men, the greater share of honour.
God's will! I pray thee, wish not one man more.
By Jove, I am not covetous for gold,
Nor care I who doth feed upon my cost;
It yearns me not if men my garments wear;
Such outward things dwell not in my desires.
But if it be a sin to covet honour,
I am the most offending soul alive.

Whose Saint Crispin's Day Is It?: Shoemaking, Holiday Making, and the Politics of Memory in Early Modern
England,Alison A. Chapman,Renaissance Quarterly,Vol. 54, No. 4, Part 2 (Winter, 2001), pp. 1467-
1494.Published by: Cambridge University Press on behalf of the Renaissance Society of America

11
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Me as the Puss in the Boots

Like this proverbial feline hero of my favourite story, my research into leather, leather shoes,
and everything footsie- has had me prancing around the leather landscape.

As my research progressed, I came across many gems of information that literally left me awe
stuck. For instance, Perrault's 390 year old "Puss in Boots" is the most renowned tale; however,
the trickster cat was not Perrault's invention. Centuries before the publication of Perrault's
tale, Somadeva, a Kashmir Brahmin, assembled a vast collection of Indian folk
tales called Kathā Sarit Sāgara (lit."The ocean of the streams of stories") that featured stock
fairy tale characters and trappings such as invincible swords, vessels that replenish their contents,
and helpful animals. In the Panchatantra (lit. "Five Principles"), a collection of Hindu tales from
the 2nd century BC.,a tale follows a cat who fares much less well than Perrault's Puss as he
attempts to make his fortune in a king's palace. Or that with the money spent to buy the most
expensive shoe in the world, one could buy a French mansion.

In fact, in Puss N Boots, the boots were never there in the original version but added later on by
Perrault, the author, to represent royalty- or much rather his need to ascent in society of that time.
“Look at a woman’s (or man’s) shoes and you can tell where he came from.” My literary
beginnings are humble- like the leather of the tanneries that descends in the process to turn itself
into the brilliance of a Rs. 10,000/- shoe. A Dior? perhaps a Louboutin? Chanel ?
Me too? I want to thank all my friends, colleagues and my parents my brother Tanay and my
relatives who are with me as I take my 1,000 steps. Lao Tzu said that each journey of a 1,000
starts with a single one. This is my first. My adventure-I want you to accompany me. Thank you
for being my fellow traveler. Dont forget-my best is yet to come!

12
 DISHA GOPAL
Masters in Fashion Management, National Institute of Fashion Technology, India
Bachelor of Arts(Hons.) Economics, University of Punjab
Category Manager-Brand ADIDAS

13
I N T R O D U C T I O N

Barefoot in the park! Photo chosen by Dr Uday Dokras to head the Introduction he writes.

I and my friend Prakash Shesh both schooled together up to 4 th Standard before we went our separate
ways; I to Canada for my Masters and he to IIM, Ahmedabad. It was therefore a surprise to meet again,
after many years, in my first job in India at the Tata’s leather factory at Dewas, Indore. He was general
manager- raw materials and I had joined as Head of Public Relations at Mumbai.
What a colossal company it was! Biggest in the world. What India produced in 1 year,Tatas were to do in
1 month. Tatas changed the entire concept of leather manufacturing and leather products in the country.
Where the industry comprised of small small units, dirty huddled in some “patliGali” Mr. Sumant
Moolgaokar, Chairman of TELCO (Tata Motors) and Tata Exports (as Tata International was then
called) and my mentor, revolutionized the concept of leather production on these 100 acres.

14
Footware industry in India and its various members, the many national and international companies make
this the second biggest manufacturer in the world. Footware manufacturing, design, marketing is a
complex subject to those who peer from the outside and more so for those who work in the industry. We
all have shoes, chappals, Sandals on our feet but when and how many times have we pondered over
them?

The preference towards the footwear attributes varies according to the consumers’ behavioural pattern
The Footwear attributes can include: 1. Coordinated Colours, 2. Elegance, 3. Comfort, 4. Brand, 5.
Friends’ opinions, 6. Family’s opinion, 7. Posture Enhancement, 8. Store Ambience ,9. Salesmen’s
behavior, 10. Amenities. It is an almighty subject with a long history and a great future. Mankind and
Footware-kind will always go “hand in Hand”- or should I say “foot in Foot” Both are twins and need one
another.

To present the shoe in a delightful way is the task undertaken by this young author in this introductory
book which is a necklace of her research essays previously published on the Net and pearled together to
offer a visual and verbal treat to the readers.

Disha Gopal’s essays on this arena traverse the footware landscape through centuries and unravel little
gems of hidden information that draws the reader’s attention and makes them wonder. That is her
strength. In 11 Chapters she deals with the A to Z of shoes that a layman would like to know in a very
interesting and storytelling way. My kudos to her. As a compliment to her writing let me share my
experience with you in enlightening you on how to buy shoes.

The baker’s dozen-12 practical tips when buying shoes from a leather vetern:
1. Do not be casual about buying shoes. It is not the money but the future health of your entire body that
is at stake.

2. Many people buy shoes which do not fit properly: According to studies 80 per cent of the population
buy shoes which do not fit properly.Be the other 20%.

3. The time of day, during which to buy is important:Did you know that feet change in size and shape
depending on the time of the day, particularly on hot summer days, when swelling can occur. It is
therefore best to buy shoes in the evening and jog a little beforehand so that your feet reach a “working

15
temperature” before trying on shoes so that they have swelled slightly. Swedish research has found that if
office workers change their footware 3-4 times a day, they will feel less tired.

4. Keep your expectations high:

The Height, width and length of the shoe- all 3 must match your feet. A shoe should not rub. Do not fall
for the classic lines “they will wear in” or “they will widen over time.” Shoe pair must fit perfectly
straightaway. Do not buy that one if it dees not.
 
5. Take your time when buying shoes:You should also check the inside of the shoes for any seams that
may be uncomfortable, or any bulges or hardened areas. Many shoe manufacturers do not fully line their
shoes in order to reduce costs, i.e. the lining ends at the area which is not visible, for example. As a result,
seams, bulges and edges are exposed. They join small pieces by sewing instead of using a single giant
piece. This is because larger pieces of leather are costlier. A Italian buyer once complained about Indian
shoes saying that our shoes look good but are full of cheap stuff.

6. Know whether or not to trust the manufacturer:Consumers are becoming increasingly conscious of the
origin and sustainability of their leather. Not only the workmanship but also materials that go ingo the
shoe that matter.But for a layman, it is difficult to distinguish the good from the bad. Hence- good labels
matter.They protect their products.

7. Try on both shoes: Feet are unequal. Right-handed people possess a dominant right foot, which is the
bigger of the two. This is the opposite for left-handed people. That is why one should always try on both
shoes and not just one.

8. Age: Feet become longer and wider with age. Consequently, the shoe size can change with age, which
is why you should be open-minded when buying shoes. If a shoe fits, it doesn’t matter if it is a size larger
or wider than the previous pair. Shoes made from different manufacturers turn out differently sized. What
matters is how comfortable it makes you feel.

9. Shape: Your toes need sufficient space as they move up to 0.5 cm due to the roll-through movement
when walking. For the heels, it is the opposite- they need a firm support. Ensure both before buying.

10. Check for Flexible soles: After the size and width are correct, one should focus on softness of the
leather and flexibility of shoe sole. Flexible means the ability to bend. Lots of people mix up the

16
flexibility of the sole and the softness of the inner padding. Therefore, you should do the ‘bending’ test. If
the shoe bends (i.e. bend the heel and the toe area towards each other) and the soles takes a V form, then
the shoes have correct flexibility.

11. Keep them as flat as possible: Another recommendation is to purchase shoes which are as
anatomically and orthopedically flat The roll-through movement of the foot can only take place as
naturally as possible in flat shoes, as there is no improper weight distribution at the arch of the foot and
the metatarsal bones. I do not want to spoil your fun: when it comes to high heels, wear them in
moderation and only as long as foot exercises and movement strengthen the foot muscles, meaning that
your feet can withstand the strain of the high heels. It is important to have a balance between this style of
footwear and comfortable footwear to use everyday.

 12. Foot Climate: Humans release around 0.1 cl (i.e. a shot glass) of perspiration from their feet each
day. It is therefore imperative that the shoe is breathable and can absorb moisture. Leather is a natural
product with distinctive material properties. No other material is as flexible and can absorb and release
moisture so effortlessly.
And do enjoy this thoroughly readable book. Cheers!

Dr. UdayDokras
B.Sc., B.A.(Managerial Economics), LLB. Nagpur University,India
Graduate Studies,Queen’s University, Canada
MBA (CALSTATE,USA)
Graduate Diploma in Law, Stockholm University,Sweden
Ph.D (Management) Stockholm University, Sweden
CONSULTANT- Gorewada International Zoo, Nagpur,India- Largest Zoo and Safari in Asia
Visiting /, Faculty at the Central Institute of Business Management and Research,Nagpur
Former team member and Leather Seller in Europe, Tata Exports Ltd-now Tata International (Leather
Division)

17
 CHAPTER 1
The HISTORY OF FOOTWARE

18
Each Chapter in this book is a research paper Published in academia.edu earlier

19
 One shoe can change your life. – Cinderella

Introduction:

The journey of shoes began with the journey of the human race. In Genesis 2 it says
that Adam and Eve were both originally naked, "but they were not ashamed." After they ate of
the Tree of Knowledge, we are told that "the eyes of both of them were opened, and they knew
that they were naked." Subsequently, they covered their bodies with apparel but if they covered
their feet with shoes or not is unclear. What is clear, however, is that human beings unlike
animals, needed something for protection of their feet. The Bible also says “Unto Adam also and
to his wife did the Lord God make coats of skins and clothed them” The primitive man including
Adam and Eves used the skins of the animals for covering his body and it can be said that the use
of skins began so early in the history of a human race. The simple idea to protect one’s feet and
soles from the vagaries of nature and the earth gave birth to the shoe or sandal. From the day a

20
child is born, his feet need to be covered for protection from the weather and as the journey of
its life progresses a progression of footwear accompany him from childhood into teenage, adult,
oldage and even death.Similarly,whether morning, afternoon, evening or night, different
footware adorns our feet.

The journey of man is linked to the journey of shoe- just as it is to the journey of apparel.
Believe it or not, the accessories that currently cover our feet have a 40,000-year history.
Everything started because of a real and practical need to protect the feet from outside effects.
This seemingly simple human need turned into a quickly growing industry in which design was
just as important as functionality. Although the main qualities of footwear have remained
unchanged, looking back at the long and interesting history of shoes, one can see that the colors,
materials and designs did change. Before, shoes used to be made by craftsmen. But today, they
are part of a factory industry earning huge amounts of money each year.

Though all shoes share basic characteristics, their coloring, materials, and designs have
transformed drastically over thousands of years in the fascinating history of footwear. From
archeological evidence, it is hypothesized that shoes were invented around in the Middle
Paleolithic period approximately 40,000 years ago. However, it was much later t footwear was
consistently worn by populations. The earliest shoe prototypes were soft, made from wraparound
leather, and resembled either sandals or moccasins.

21
The history, changes and tendencies in footwear fashion can be divided into the main world
history eras:

1. Prehistory (2,5 million BC – 1250 BC)

2. Antiquity (1250 BC – 476)
3. The Middle Ages (476 – 1453)
4. Early Modern Times (1453 – 1918)
5. Modern Times (1918 - these days).

During different eras there were different views of the world, different understandings of culture
and art, different economic and political factors which played an important role in the materials,
shapes, pronts, and style used in people’s wardrobe. The discovery and capture of new lands,
new technologies and different understandings of the world changed the style and fashion of
apparel and footwear.

Primitive footwear, popular during Prehistory, featured sandals which grew in popularity during
Antiquity because of the formation of social classes. During the Middle Ages, which are
characterized by humility and feudalism, the first footwear structures were formed and the heel
was discovered and widely used. The Early Modern Times, the eras of Renaissance and Baroque
hints of modern footwear were spotted. During this time, men’s and women’s shoes were very
similar. The models varied depending on social classes. During this time society was divided into
classes deciding not only different jobs and responsibilities but also apparel and footwear.
Peasants wore heavy and dark leather boots with heels. Nobles wore more fancy footwear which
often had a wooden heel.  Prints, ornaments and other decorative elements were worn only by the
noble. They would order these shoes from a shoemaker making each pair different bearing the
stamp of the owner who commissioned its creation. Modern Times changed the understanding of
fashion and drastically altered the decades-long shoemaking traditions due to the avent of
technology which simplified the shoemaking process.

Traditionally, shoes have been made from leather, wood or canvas, but in the 2010s, they are
increasingly made from rubber, plastics, and other petrochemical-derived materials. Though the
human foot is adapted to varied terrain and climate conditions, it is still vulnerable to
environmental hazards such as sharp rocks and temperature extremes, which shoes protect

22
against. Some shoes are worn as safety equipment, such as steel-soled boots which are required
on construction sites or factory floors to be worn by workers.

History- Antiquity

The oldest known leather shoe, about 5500 years old, found in Armenia( Centre pic)

Esparto sandals from the 6th or 5th millennium BC found in Spain. Utah Shoe found in cave there

Roman shoes: Above picture of man's, a woman's and a child's shoe from Bar Hill Roman Fort,
Scotland.

The world's oldest leather shoe, made from a single piece of cowhide laced with a leather cord
along seams at the front and back, was found in the Areni-1 cave complex in Armenia in 2008
and is believed to date to 3500 BC. Ötzi the Iceman's shoes, dating to 3300 BC, featured brown
bearskin bases, deerskin side panels, and a bark-string net, which pulled tight around the
foot. The Jotunheimen shoe was discovered in August 2006: archaeologists estimate that this
leather shoe was made between 1800 and 1100 BC making it the oldest article of clothing
discovered in Scandinavia. The earliest known shoes are sagebrush bark sandals dating from
approximately 7000 or 8000 BC, found in the Fort Rock Cave in the US state of Oregon in 1938 
It is thought that shoes must have been used long before this, but because the materials used were
highly perishable, it is difficult to find evidence of the earliest footwear. By studying the bones
of the smaller toes (as opposed to the big toe), it was observed that their thickness decreased
approximately 40,000 to 26,000 years ago. This led archaeologists to deduce that wearing shoes
resulted in less bone growth, resulting in shorter, thinner toes. These earliest designs were very

23
simple in design, often mere "foot bags" of leather to protect the feet from rocks, debris, and
cold.
Many early natives in North America wore a similar type of footwear, known as the moccasin.
These are tight-fitting, soft-soled shoes typically made out of leather or bison hides. Many
moccasins were also decorated with various beads and other adornments. Moccasins were not
designed to be waterproof, and in wet weather and warm summer months, most Native
Americans went barefoot.
As civilizations began to develop, thong sandals (the precursors of the modern flip-flop) were
worn. This practice dates back to pictures of them in ancient Egyptian murals from 4000 BC.
One pair found in Europe was made of papyrus leaves and dated to be approximately 1,500 years
old. They were also worn in Jerusalem during the first century of the Common Era. Thong
sandals were worn by many civilizations and made from a wide variety of materials. Ancient
Egyptian sandals were made from papyrus and palm leaves. The Masai of Africa made them out
of rawhide. In India they were made from wood. In China and Japan, rice straw was used. The
leaves of the sisal plant were used to make twine for sandals in South America while the natives
of Mexico used the Yucca plant.
While thong sandals were commonly worn, many people in ancient times, such as
the Egyptians, Hindus and Greeks, saw little need for footwear, and most of the time, preferred
being barefoot. The Egyptians and Hindus made some use of ornamental footwear, such as a
soleless sandal known as a "Cleopatra which did not provide any practical protection for the foot.
The ancient Greeks largely viewed footwear as self-indulgent, unaesthetic and unnecessary.
Shoes were primarily worn in the theater, as a means of increasing stature, and many preferred to
go barefoot. Athletes in the Ancient Olympic Games participated barefoot—and naked. Even
the gods and heroes were primarily depicted barefoot, the hoplite warriors fought battles in bare
feet and Alexander the Great conquered his vast empire with barefoot armies. The runners
of Ancient Greece are also believed to have run barefoot.

24
 Footwear of Roman soldiers (Statute in Rome)

The Romans, who eventually conquered the Greeks and adopted many aspects of their culture,
did not adopt the Greek perception of footwear and clothing. Roman clothing was seen as a sign
of power, and footwear was seen as a necessity of living in a civilized world, although the slaves
and paupers usually went barefoot. Roman soldiers were issued with chiral (left and right shoe
different) footwear. Shoes for soldiers had riveted insoles to extend the life of the leather,
increase comfortability, and provide better traction. The design of these shoes also designated the
rank of the officers. The more intricate the insignia and the higher up the boot went on the leg,
the higher the rank of the soldier. There are references to shoes being worn in the Bible.[
Starting around 4 BC, the Greeks began wearing symbolic footwear. These were heavily
decorated to clearly indicate the status of the wearer. Courtesans wore leather shoes colored with
white, green, lemon or yellow dyes, and young woman betrothed or newly married wore pure
white shoes. Because of the cost to lighten leather, shoes of a paler shade were a symbol of
wealth in the upper class. Often, the soles would be carved with a message so it would imprint on
the ground. Cobblers became a notable profession around this time, with Greek shoemakers
becoming famed in the Roman empire.

25
Middle Ages and Early Modern period

A common casual shoe in the Pyrenees during the Middle Ages was the espadrille. This is a
sandal with braided jute soles and a fabric upper portion, and often includes fabric laces that tie
around the ankle. The term is French and comes from the esparto grass. The shoe originated in
the Catalonian region of Spain as early as the 13th century, and was commonly worn
by peasants in the farming communities in the area. Many medieval shoes were made using
the turnshoe method of construction, in which the upper was turned flesh side out, and was lasted
onto the sole and joined to the edge by a seam. The shoe was then turned inside-out so that the
grain was outside. Some shoes were developed with toggled flaps or drawstrings to tighten the
leather around the foot for a better fit. Surviving medieval turnshoes often fit the foot closely,
with the right and left shoe being mirror images. Around 1500, the turnshoe method was largely
replaced by the welted rand method (where the uppers are sewn to a much stiffer sole and the
shoe cannot be turned inside-out). The turnshoe method is still used for some dance and specialty
shoes.
By the 15th century, pattens became popular by both men and women in Europe. These are
commonly seen as the predecessor of the modern high-heeled shoe, while the poor and lower
classes in Europe, as well as slaves in the New World, were barefoot. In the 15th century,
the Crakow was fashionable in Europe. This style of shoe is named because it is thought to have
originated in Kraków, the capital of Poland. The style is characterized by the point of the shoe,
known as the "polaine", which often was supported by a whalebone tied to the knee to prevent
the point getting in the way while walking. Also during the 15th century, chopines were created
in Turkey, and were usually 7–8 inches (17.7–20.3 cm) high. These shoes became popular
in Venice and throughout Europe, as a status symbol revealing wealth and social standing.
During the 16th century, royalty, such as Catherine de Medici or Mary I of England, started
wearing high-heeled shoes to make them look taller or larger than life. By 1580, even men wore
them, and a person with authority or wealth was often referred to as, "well-heeled". In 17th
century France, heels were exclusively worn by aristocrats. Louis XIV of France outlawed
anybody from wearing red high heels except for himself and his royal court.
Eventually the modern shoe, with a sewn-on sole, was devised. Since the 17th century, most
leather shoes have used a sewn-on sole. This remains the standard for finer-quality dress shoes
today. Until around 1800, welted rand shoes were commonly made without differentiation for

26
the left or right foot. Such shoes are now referred to as "straights".Only gradually did the modern
foot-specific shoe become standard.

Industrial era

27
Shoemaking became more commercialized in the mid-18th century, as it expanded as a cottage
industry. Large warehouses began to stock footwear, made by many small manufacturers from
the area.
Until the 19th century, shoemaking was a traditional handicraft, but by the century's end, the
process had been almost completely mechanized, with production occurring in large factories.
Despite the obvious economic gains of mass production, the factory system produced shoes
without the individual differentiation that the traditional shoemaker was able to provide.The first
steps towards mechanization were taken during the Napoleonic Wars by the engineer, Marc
Brunel. He developed machinery for the mass-production of boots for the soldiers of the British
Army. In 1812, he devised a scheme for making nailed-boot-making machinery that
automatically fastened soles to uppers by means of metallic pins or nails. With the support of
the Duke of York, the shoes were manufactured, and, due to their strength, cheapness, and
durability, were introduced for the use of the army. In the same year, the use of screws and

staples was patented by Richard Woodman.

28
The Shoemaker. During the late 1700s and early 1800s in Mother Bedford there were craftsmen known as shoemakers. ... The
name for a shoemaker originally was Cordwainer. It was seldom used after 1700, but still appears in dictionaries and the guild
of shoemakers in England retains the name of The Cordwainers Company.

By the late 19th century, the shoemaking industry had migrated to the factory and was
increasingly mechanized. Pictured, the bottoming room of the B. F. Spinney & Co. factory
in Lynn, Massachusetts, 1872.

He wore green trousers and a red jacket and his hat was leather with a narrow brim and a purple
band all around the crown. He was sitting on a wooden stool, hammering away at a pair of boots
that he was making, with the tools of his trade all laid out beside him: the lap-stone, the stirrup,
the whet-board, the pincers and the nippers. As he worked he sang a little song to himself, to go
with the rhythm of the hammering:

A Gentle Craft that hath the Art,

To steal soon into a Lady’s Heart.
Here you may see what Guile can do,
The Crown doth stoop to th’ Maker of a Shoe.

– The Other End of the Rainbow, David Gardiner - Cobblers All: Occupation as Identity and
Cultural Message1

29
In the Middle Ages, tradesmen formed guilds that protected their trades. Those who worked
with fine leather were known as Cordwainers, named after the very finest leather that was
imported from Cordoba, Spain. In later years, those who processed leather formed their own
guild, but shoemakers retained the name of Cordwainer. Cobblers were distinct from
Cordwainers, for they only repaired shoes, but over the years, this distinction began to weaken.
Cordwainers.

Shoemaking flourished in the 18th century, and boot- and shoe-makers were the most numerous
of all Salisbury craftsmen throughout the 19th century and until the First World War. It was said
that in the later 19th century ‘in hundreds of houses the shoe-binders, the closers and finishers
were busy week in week out’. The business with the longest history is Moore Brothers, whose
origins can be found in William Moore, boot and shoemaker in 1822 and 1830, and Henry Rowe,
established in Catherine Street in 1842, who had moved by 1867 to Silver Street. By 1875 these
premises were occupied by Rowe, Moore and Moore, a firm which subsequently became James
and William Moore Brothers. The firm moved to its present premises in the New Canal at the
end of the 19th century. – Salisbury Economic History Since 1621At the time, the shoemaking
trade consisted of division according to the type of shoes made: men’s, women’s, and shoes for
workers, such as night-soil men and slaughterhouse men. There were different operations
performed by different persons: cutting leathers, sewing uppers, and joining heel and sole. And
there were production sites, such as shop masters and cellar, garret and stall masters. Shoe
masters employed many people in large operations that hired many workers (there were only 600
or 700 of these), but over 30,000 individuals worked as journeymen, country workers,
apprentices and cheap garret masters.

However, when the war ended in 1815, manual labour became much cheaper, and the demand
for military equipment subsided. As a consequence, Brunel's system was no longer profitable and
it soon ceased business. Similar exigencies at the time of the Crimean War stimulated a renewed
interest in methods of mechanization and mass-production, which proved longer lasting. [27] A
shoemaker in Leicester, Tomas Crick, patented the design for a riveting machine in 1853. His
machine used an iron plate to push iron rivets into the sole. The process greatly increased the

30
speed and efficiency of production. He also introduced the use of steam-powered rolling-
machines for hardening leather and cutting-machines, in the mid-1850s.

Advertisement in an 1896 issue of McClure's for "The Regal".

The sewing machine was introduced in 1846, and provided an alternative method for the
mechanization of shoemaking. By the late 1850s, the industry was beginning to shift towards the
modern factory, mainly in the US and areas of England. A shoe stitching machine was invented
by the American Lyman Blake in 1856 and perfected by 1864. Entering into partnership with
McKay, his device became known as the McKay stitching machine and was quickly adopted by
manufacturers throughout New England. As bottlenecks opened up in the production line due to
these innovations, more and more of the manufacturing stages, such as pegging and finishing,
became automated. By the 1890s, the process of mechanization was largely complete.
On January 24, 1899, Humphrey O'Sullivan of Lowell, Massachusetts, was awarded a patent for
a rubber heel for boots and shoes.
Fast Facts: Shoe Laces
 Prior to shoestrings, shoes were commonly fastened with buckles.
 Modern shoestrings, which employed strings laced through shoe holes and then tied, were
invented in England in 1790 (first recorded date, March 27).
 An aglet (from the Latin word for "needle") is a small plastic or fiber tube used to bind
the end of a shoelace, or similar cord, to prevent fraying and to allow the lace to be
passed through an eyelet or another opening.

31
In the 1780s, a fascination with all things “Oriental” led to the introduction of shoes with
upturned toes known as Kampskatcha slippers. (While billed as an homage to Chinese fashion,
they more closely resembled Juttis, the upturned slippers worn by affluent female members of
the court of the Mughal Empire.) From the 1780s through the 1790s, the height of heels
gradually decreased. With the approach of the French Revolution (1787-99), excess was seen
with increasing disdain, and less became more.

19th Century Styles

In 1817, the Duke of Wellington commissioned the boots that would become synonymous with
his name. Streamlined and free of ornamentation, “Wellies” became all the rage. The rubberized
version, still popular today, was introduced in the 1850s by the North British Rubber Company.
In the following decade, the family shoemaking firm of C & J Clark Ltd was founded and
remains one of England's leading shoe manufacturers.
Prior to 1830, there was no difference between right and left shoes. French shoemakers came up
with the idea of placing little labels on the insoles of shoes: “Gauche” for the left, and “Droit” for
the right. While the shoes were still both straight in shape, since the French style was considered
the height of fashion, other countries were quick to emulate the trend.
In 1837 by J. Sparkes Hall patented the elastic side boot, which allowed them to be put on and
taken off much more easily than those that required buttons or laces. Hall actually presented a
pair of them to Queen Victoria, and the style remained popular through the end of the 1850s.
By the 1860s, flat, squared-toed shoes featuring side lacing were de rigeur. This left the front of
the shoes free for decoration. Rosettes were a popular embellishment of the day for women’s
shoes. In the mid-1800s unassembled shoes made with flat sheets of woven straw were produced
in Italy and sold across Europe and in America to be put together as shoemakers saw fit.

In the mid-1870s,the Manchu people of China (who did not practice foot binding) favored
platform shoes that were the precursors to 20th-century fashion styles. Hoof-shaped pedestals
afforded increased balance. Women’s shoes were taller and more intricately decorated than those
for men.
19th Century Innovations in Shoe Manufacturing

32
  1830s: Plimsolls, canvas-topped shoes with rubber soles, first manufactured by the
Liverpool Rubber Company, make their debut as beachwear.
 June 15, 1844: Inventor and manufacturing engineer Charles Goodyear receives a patent
for vulcanized rubber, a chemical process that uses heat to meld rubber to fabric or other
components for a sturdier, more permanent bond.
 1858: Lyman Reed Blake, an American inventor receives a patent for the specialized
sewing machine he developed that stitches the soles of shoes to the uppers.
 January 24, 1871: Charles Goodyear Jr's patents the Goodyear Welt, a machine for
sewing boots and shoes.
 1883: Jan Ernst Matzeliger patents an automatic method for lasting shoes that paves the
way for the mass production of affordable shoes.
 January 24, 1899: Irish-American Humphrey O'Sullivan patents the first rubber heel for
shoes. Later, Elijah McCoy (best known for developing a lubricating system for railroad
steam engines that did not require trains to stop) invents an improved rubber heel.

O'SULLIVAN RUBBER WELL-HEELED BEGINNINGS -1899 to 1970

By Stan HindenAugust 15, 1988

The phrase, "America's No. 1 Heel," doesn't sound like much of an advertising slogan these days,
but in the early decades of this century it powered the sales of a rubber safety heel that became
one of America's best-known shoewear products.The rubber heel was invented, so the story goes,
by one Humphrey O'Sullivan, a pressman in Lowell, Mass., in 1896. He nailed pieces of rubber
floormat to his shoes to ease the leg fatigue caused by long hours of standing in front of his
printing press. In 1899, O'Sullivan patented the rubber heel and it became the start of the
O'Sullivan Rubber Co. The O'Sullivan heel was vigorously promoted in its early years and in
1908, history tells us, O'Sullivan cashed in and sold his interest in the company for $4 million.
He had invested $7,000 in the business only 11 years earlier. In 1932, the O'Sullivan Rubber Co.
moved to Winchester, Va., where it still has its headquarters. During World War II, synthetic
rubber replaced natural rubber in footwear and American industry began to discover the many
uses of plastics.

In 1970, the company changed its name to the O'Sullivan Corp., and continued to expand, adding
new facilities around the country. Finally, in 1986, the company's rubber division was sold to
Vulcan Corp. The imports of footwear from Taiwan, Korea and Brazil had made the division
unprofitable, the company said. Today, O'Sullivan has 1,800 employees working in operations in
Winchester and Luray, Va., Lebanon, Pa., Newton Upper Falls, Mass., and Yerington, Nev. A
Dearborn, Mich., engineering office will allow O'Sullivan people to help the automakers design
the parts that O'Sullivan will manufacture.

33
The Ford Motor Co., accounts for more than 10 percent of O'Sullivan sales.

Sales also moved up rapidly, going over the $101 million mark for six months, an annual rate of
$200 million a year. It was only five years ago -- in 1983 -- that O'Sullivan saw its sales rise
above the $100 million mark. It is an old rule, of course, that when profits take off, so do stocks.
A year ago, O'Sullivan, listed on the American Stock Exchange, was selling at about $14 a share,
adjusted for stock splits. The October market crash took it down briefly to below $11 but by
January it was back to $14. It climbed to $16 but fell again to $14 in June.

Then, in mid-July, with the shares at $15, the market got a look at the company's second-quarter
profits and the stock began to jump, going as high as $21.25 last Monday. It closed Friday at $20
for a four-week gain of about 33 percent. At $20, the stock is selling at 17 times its $1.18
earnings over the past 12 months.

“In 2007, the global shoe industry had an overall market of $107.4 billion, in terms of revenue,
and is expected to grow to $122.9 billion by the end of 2012.” The size of the footwear market
worldwide in 2017 is worth 246 billion U.S. dollars, and was forecast to reach about 320 billion

U.S. dollars by 2023.Shoe manufacturers in the People's Republic of China account for 63% of

production, 40.5% of global exports and 55% of industry revenue. However, many
manufacturers in Europe dominate the higher-priced, higher value-added end of the market.
The removal of the shoe also symbolizes the act of giving up a legal right. In Hebrew custom, the
widow removed the shoe of her late husband's brother to symbolize that he had abandoned his
duty. In Arab custom, the removal of one's shoe also symbolized the dissolution of marriage.
In Arab culture, showing the sole of one's shoe is considered an insult, and to throw a shoe and
hit someone with it is considered an even greater insult. Shoes are considered to be dirty as they
frequently touch the ground, and are associated with the lowest part of the body—the foot.

34
 Tata International Ltd.- Leather Unit, DEWAS
As such, shoes are forbidden in mosques, and it is also considered unmannerly to cross the legs
and display the soles of one's shoes to someone when talking to them. This insult was
demonstrated in Iraq, first when Saddam Hussein's statue was toppled in 2003, Iraqis gathered
around it and struck the statue with their shoes. Secondly, in 2008, United
States President George W. Bush had a shoe thrown at him by a journalist as a statement against
the war that was brought to Iraq and the lives that it has cost.  More generally, shoe-throwing or
shoeing, showing the sole of one's shoe or using shoes to insult are forms of protest in many
parts of the world. Incidents where shoes were thrown at political figures have taken place
in Australia, India, Ireland, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Pakistan, the United Kingdom, the United
States, and most notably the Arab world. Empty shoes may also symbolize death.
In Greek culture, empty shoes are the equivalent of the American funeral wreath. For example,
empty shoes placed outside of a Greek home would tell others that the family's son has died in
battle. At an observation memorializing the 10th anniversary of the September 11 attacks, 3,000
pairs of empty shoes were used to recognize those killed. The Shoes on the Danube Bank is a
memorial in Budapest, Hungary.

35
Conceived by film director Can Togay, he created it on the east bank of the Danube River with
sculptor Gyula Pauer to honor the Jews who were killed by fascist Arrow Cross militiamen in
Budapest during World War II. They were ordered to take off their shoes, and were shot at the
edge of the water so that their bodies fell into the river and were carried away. The memorial
represents their shoes left behind on the bank.

Danube Memorial to commemorate Jewish prisoners shot on this very bank

in WWII

Construction

36
The basic anatomy of a shoe is recognizable, regardless of the specific style of footwear All
shoes have a sole, which is the bottom of a shoe, in contact with the ground. Soles can be made
from a variety of materials, although most modern shoes have soles made from natural
rubber, polyurethane, or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) compounds.  Soles can be

simple—a single material in a single layer—or they can be complex, with multiple structures or
layers and materials. When various layers are used, soles may consist of an insole, midsole, and
an outsole.

The insole is the interior bottom of a shoe, which sits directly beneath the foot under the footbed
(also known as sock liner). The purpose of insole is to attach to the lasting margin of the upper,
which is wrapped around the last during the closing of the shoe during the lasting operation.
Insoles are usually made of cellulosic paper board or synthetic non woven insole board. Many
shoes have removable and replaceable footbeds. Extra cushioning is often added for comfort (to
control the shape, moisture, or smell of the shoe) or health reasons (to help deal with differences
in the natural shape of the foot or positioning of the foot during standing or walking).

37
The outsole is the layer in direct contact with the ground. Dress shoes often have leather or resin
rubber outsoles; casual or work-oriented shoes have outsoles made of natural rubber or a
synthetic material like polyurethane. The outsole may comprise a single piece, or may be an
assembly of separate pieces, often of different materials. On some shoes, the heel of the sole has
a rubber plate for durability and traction, while the front is leather for style. Specialized shoes
will often have modifications on this design: athletic or so called cleated shoes like soccer,
rugby, baseball and golf shoes have spikes embedded in the outsole to improve traction.
The midsole is the layer in between the outsole and the insole, typically there for shock
absorption. Some types of shoes, like running shoes, have additional material for shock
absorption, usually beneath the heel of the foot, where one puts the most pressure down. Some
shoes may not have a midsole at all

The heel is the bottom rear part of a shoe. Its function is to support the heel of the foot. They are
often made of the same material as the sole of the shoe. This part can be high for fashion or to
make the person look taller, or flat for a more practical and comfortable use. On some shoes the
inner forward point of the heel is chiseled off, a feature known as a "gentleman's corner". This
piece of design is intended to alleviate the problem of the points catching the bottom of trousers
and was first observed in the 1930s A heel is the projection at the back of a shoe which rests
below the heel bone. The shoe heel is used to improve the balance of the shoe, increase the
height of the wearer, alter posture or other decorative purposes. Sometimes raised, the high
heel is common to a form of shoe often worn by women, but sometimes by men too. See
also stiletto heel.

The upper helps hold the shoe onto the foot. In the simplest cases, such as sandals or flip-flops,
this may be nothing more than a few straps for holding the sole in place. Closed footwear, such
as boots, trainers and most men's shoes, will have a more complex upper. This part is often
decorated or is made in a certain style to look attractive. The upper is connected to the sole by a
strip of leather, rubber, or plastic that is stitched between it and the sole, known as a welt.
Most uppers have a mechanism, such as laces, straps with buckles, zippers, elastic, velcro straps,
buttons, or snaps, for tightening the upper on the foot. Uppers with laces usually have a tongue
that helps seal the laced opening and protect the foot from abrasion by the laces. Uppers with

38
laces also have eyelets or hooks to make it easier to tighten and loosen the laces and to prevent
the lace from tearing through the upper material. An aglet is the protective wrapping on the end
of the lace.

The vamp is the front part of the shoe, starting behind the toe, extending around the eyelets and
tongue and towards back part of the shoe.
The medial is the part of the shoe closest to a person's center of symmetry, and the lateral is on
the opposite side, away from their center of symmetry. This can be in reference to either the
outsole or the vamp. Most shoes have shoelaces on the upper, connecting the medial and lateral
parts after one puts their shoes on and aiding in keeping their shoes on their feet. In 1968, Puma
SE introduced the first pair of sneakers with Velcro straps in lieu of shoelaces, and these became
popular by the 1980s, especially among children and the elderly.

The toe box is the part that covers and protects the toes. People with toe deformities, or
individuals who experience toe swelling (such as long-distance runners) usually require a larger
toe box.
 

Cutaway view of a typical shoe.

Types

39
There are a wide variety of different types of shoes. Most types of shoes are designed for specific
activities. For example, boots are typically designed for work or heavy outdoor use. Athletic
shoes are designed for particular sports such as running, walking, or other sports. Some shoes are
designed to be worn at more formal occasions, and others are designed for casual wear. There are
also a wide variety of shoes designed for different types of dancing. Orthopedic shoes are special
types of footwear designed for individuals with particular foot problems or special needs. Other
animals, such as dogs and horses, may also wear special shoes to protect their feet as well.
Depending on the activity for which they are designed, some types of footwear may fit into
multiple categories. For example, Cowboy boots are considered boots, but may also be worn in
more formal occasions and used as dress shoes. Hiking boots incorporate many of the protective
features of boots, but also provide the extra flexibility and comfort of many athletic shoes. Flip-
flops are considered casual footwear, but have also been worn in formal occasions, such as visits
to the White House.
Different shoes
Athletic

A pair of athletic running shoes

Athletic shoes are specifically designed to be worn for participating in various sports.

Since friction between the foot and the ground is an important force in most sports, modern

40
athletic shoes are designed to maximize this force, and materials, such as rubber, are used.
Although, for some activities such as dancing or bowling, sliding is desirable, so shoes designed
for these activities often have lower coefficients of friction.  The earliest athletic shoes date back
to the mid -19th century were track spikes—leather shoes with metal cleats on the soles to
provide increased friction during running. They were developed by J.W. Foster & Sons, which
later become known as Reebok. By the end of the 19th century, Spalding also manufactured
these shoes as well. Adidas started selling shoes with track spikes in them
for running and soccer in1925. Spikes were eventually added to shoes for baseball and American
football in the 20th century.Golfers also use shoes with small metal spikes on their soles to
prevent slipping during their swing.

The earliest rubber-soled athletic shoes date back to 1876 in the United Kingdom, when the
New Liverpool Rubber Company made plimsolls, or sandshoes, designed for the sport
of croquet. Similar rubber-soled shoes were made in 1892 in the United States by Humphrey
O'Sullivan, based on Charles Goodyear's technology. The United States Rubber Company was
founded the same year and produced rubber-soled and heeled shoes under a variety of brand
names, which were later consolidated in 1916 under the name, Keds. These shoes became known

41
as, "sneakers", because the rubber sole allowed the wearer to sneak up on another person. In
1964,the founding of Nike by Phil Knight and Bill Bowerman of the University of
Oregon introduced many new improvements common in modern running shoes, such as rubber
waffle soles, breathable nylon uppers, and cushioning in the mid-sole and heel. During the
1970s, the expertise of podiatrists also became important in athletic shoe design, to implement
new design features based on how feet reacted to specific actions, such as running, jumping, or
side-to-side movement. Athletic shoes for women were also designed for their specific
physiological differences.

A pair of Converse All-Stars

Shoes specific to the sport of basketball were developed by Chuck Taylor, and are popularly
known as Chuck Taylor All-Stars. These shoes, first sold in 1917, are double-layer canvas shoes
with rubber soles and toe caps, and a high heel (known as a "high top") for added support. In
1969, Taylor was inducted into the Naismith Memorial Basketball Hall of Fame in recognition of
this development, and in the 1970s, other shoe manufacturers, such as Nike, Adidas, Reebok, and
others began imitating this style of athletic shoe.  In April 1985, Nike introduced its own brand
of basketball shoe which would become popular in its own right, the Air Jordan, named after the
then-rookie Chicago Bulls basketball player, Michael Jordan. The Air Jordan line of shoes sold
$100 million in their first year.

As barefoot running became popular by the late 20th and early 21st century, many modern shoe
manufacturers have recently designed footwear that mimic this experience, maintaining optimum

42
flexibility and natural walking while also providing some degree of protection. Termed
as Minimalist shoes, their purpose is to allow one's feet and legs to feel more subtly the impacts
and forces involved in running, allowing finer adjustments in running style. Some of these shoes
include the Vibram FiveFingers, Nike Free,and Saucony's Kinvara and
Hattori. Mexican huaraches are also very simple running shoes, similar to the shoes worn by
the Tarahumara people of northern Mexico, who are known for their distance running abilities.
Wrestling shoes are also very light and flexible shoes that are designed to mimic bare feet while
providing additional traction and protection.

Milind Soman running barfefoot

Many athletic shoes are designed with specific features for specific activities. One of these
includes roller skates, which have metal or plastic wheels on the bottom specific for the sport of
roller skating. Similarly, ice skates have a metal blade attached to the bottom for locomotion
across ice. Skate shoes have also been designed to provide a comfortable, flexible and durable
shoe for the sport of skateboarding.

Climbing shoes are rubber-soled, tight-fitting shoes designed to fit in the small cracks and
crevices for rock climbing. Cycling shoes are similarly designed with rubber soles and a tight fit,
but also are equipped with a metal or plastic cleat to interface with clipless pedals, as well as a

43
stiff sole to maximize power transfer and support the foot. Some shoes are made specifically to
improve a person's ability to weight train.

A pair of steel-toed safety boots

Keds, Converse, and the Evolution of Sneakers
In 1892, nine small rubber manufacturing companies consolidated to form the U.S. Rubber
Company. Among them was the Goodyear Metallic Rubber Shoe Company, organized in the
1840s in Naugatuck, Connecticut, the first licensee of Charles Goodyear's vulcanization process.
While Plimsolls had been on the scene for nearly six decades, vulcanization was a game-changer
for rubber-soled canvas shoes.

From 1892 to 1913, the rubber footwear divisions of U.S. Rubber were manufacturing their
products under 30 different brand names but the company decided to consolidate their brands
under a single name. The initial favorite was Peds, from the Latin for foot, but another company
already owned that trademark. By 1916, the choice had come down to two final alternatives:
Veds or Keds. The "k" sound won out and Keds were born. The same year, Keds introduced their
Champion Sneaker for Women.

Keds were first mass-marketed as canvas-top "sneakers" in 1917. Henry Nelson McKinney, a
copywriter who worked for the N. W. Ayer & Son Advertising Agency, coined the word
"sneaker" to connote the quiet, stealthy nature of rubber-soled shoes. Other shoes, with the
exception of moccasins, were noisy while sneakers were practically silent. 1917 was a banner
year for basketball shoes. Converse All Stars, the first shoe specifically designed for the game,
were introduced. Soon after, Chuck Taylor, an iconic player of the day, became the brand
ambassador. The design has remained pretty much the same over the years, and remain firmly
ensconced in the cultural landscape today. 

44
Boot

A boot is a special type of shoe which covers the foot and the ankle and extends up the leg,
sometimes as far as the knee or even the hip. Most boots have a heel that is clearly
distinguishable from the rest of the sole, even if the two are made of one piece. They are
typically made of leather or rubber, although they may be made from a variety of different
materials. Boots are worn both for their functionality—protecting the foot and leg from water,
snow, mud or hazards or providing additional ankle support for strenuous activities—as well as
for reasons of style and fashion.

Cowboy boots are a specific style of riding boot which combines function with fashion. They
became popular among cowboys in the western United States during the 19th century.
Traditional cowboy boots have a Cuban heel, rounded to pointed toe, high shaft, and,
traditionally, no lacing. They are normally made from cowhide leather but may be made from
more exotic skins such as ostrich, anaconda, or elephant skins.

Hiking boots are designed to provide extra ankle and arch support, as well as extra padding for
comfort during hiking. They are constructed to provide comfort for miles of walking over rough
terrains, and protect the hiker's feet against water, mud, rocks, and other wilderness obstacles.
These boots support the ankle to avoid twisting but do not restrict the ankle's movement too
much. They are fairly stiff to support the foot. A properly fitted boot and/or friction-reducing

45
patches applied to troublesome areas ensures protection against blisters and other discomforts
associated with long hikes on rugged terrain.

During wet or snowy weather, snow boots are worn to keep the foot warm and dry. They are
typically made of rubber or other water-resistant material, have multiple layers of insulation, and
a high heel to keep snow out. Boots may also be attached to snowshoes to increase the
distribution of weight over a larger surface area for walking in snow. Ski boots are a specialized
snow boot which are used in alpine or cross-country skiing and designed to provide a way to
attach the skier to his/her skis using ski bindings. The ski/boot/binding combination is used to
effectively transmit control inputs from the skier's legs to the snow. Ice skates are another
specialized boot with a metal blade attached to the bottom which is used to propel the wearer
across a sheet of ice. Inline skates are similar to ice skates but with a set of three to four wheels
in lieu of the blade, which are designed to mimic ice skating on solid surfaces such as wood or
concrete.

Boots are designed to withstand heavy wear to protect the wearer and provide good traction.
They are generally made from sturdy leather uppers and non-leather outsoles. They may be used
for uniforms of the police or military, as well as for protection in industrial settings such
as mining and construction. Protective features may include steel-tipped toes and soles

or ankle guards. Cowboy boots

46
 History of Boots, By Clare Sauro

The modern definition of the term "boots" is a loose one; footwear covering the entire foot and
lower leg. This is believed to have developed from one of the earliest forms of footwear-a two-piece
unit covering the foot and lower leg. This wrapping of the leg formed the building block on which
all modern forms of the boot have derived.

Purpose

Materials and purpose of boots varies historically. The oldest known depiction of boots is in a cave
painting from Spain, which has been dated between 12,000 and 15,000 B.C.E. In the ancient world,
boots represented ruling power and military might. Emperors and kings wore ornate and colorful
examples; this was a significant distinction when the majority of the population went barefoot.
Leather was expensive, and roman emperors were cited as wearing colorful jeweled and
embroidered examples-even with gold soles. Boots were also already associated with the military.

Middle Ages

During the Middle Ages, the styles shoes and boots established by the ancient world continued.
Courtiers of the Carolingian period were depicted wearing high boots laced halfway up the leg.
Under Charlemagne the term brodequin is first used for these laced boots and roman terms
rejected. The huese, a high, soft leather shoe and forerunner to the boot appeared toward the ninth
century. During the twelfth through fourteenth centuries, a short, soft boot called the estivaux was
popular. Toward the middle of the fourteenth century, people often wore soled hose, which
precluded the need for shoes and boots.

Fifteenth Century

In the fifteenth century, men wore long boots that reached the thighs and were usually of brown
leather. This style was prevalent among all of the classes. Despite this widespread popularity, they
were not for women; in fact this was one of the chief criminal charges against Joan of Arc in 1431.

47
Sixteenth Century

By the sixteenth century, high boots of soft perfumed leather were worn to meet upper stocks and
would soon develop into the wide, floppy cavalier styles of the first half of the seventeenth century.
Soft boots folded down- and slouchy boots worn with boot hose elaborately trimmed with lace
flaring out into wide funnel shapes to fold down over the boots-characterized these fashions. Boot
hose was worn both for its decorative qualities and to protect the costly silk stockings. These high
boots featured a leather strap on the instep (the surpied), and a strap under the foot, which
anchored the spur in place (the soulette). Seventeenth Century

The seventeenth century had seen the emergence of the first military uniforms, and the boot had
played an essential role in this standardization. Eighteenth saw more gentlemanly pursuit of sport
riding, the high cavalier boot of the seventeenth century developed into a softer and closer fitting
"jockey" style boot with the top folded down under the knee for mobility which showed the brown
leather or cotton lining. This style originated in 1727 and became increasingly fashionable into the
1770s.

Nineteenth Century

The vogue for democratic, English style dress had made the boot more popular than ever. Beau
Brummel epitomized the radical simplicity of the dandy. His typical morning dress was reported as
"Hessians and pantaloons or top boots and buckskins" (Swann, p. 35). Despite this endorsement,
the shape and design of the boot inevitably shifted with fashion. The Wellington supplanted the
Hessian since the tassels and braid of the Hessian were difficult to wear with the newly fashionable
trousers. The Wellington boot was essentially a Hessian that had had its curved top cut straight
across with a simple binding. This style was reputedly developed by the Duke of Wellington in 1817
and dominated menswear in the first quarter of the nineteenth century. The success of the
Wellington was so pronounced that it was said in 1830, "the Hessian is a boot only worn with tight
pantaloons. The Blucher a practical, front-laced ankle boot worn by laborers in the eighteenth
century, which had popularly been known as the "high-low."

The popularity of boots began to influence women's fashions during the early years of the
nineteenth century. Women had been wearing masculine-style boots for riding and driving during
the eighteenth century, and by the 1790s their styles had become distinctly feminine with tight
lacing, high heels, and pointed toes. By 1815 fashion periodicals begin to suggest boots for walking
and daywear; boots were widespread by 1830. The most common style was the Adelaide, a flat,
heelless ankle boot with side lacing. This style would remain in use for more than fifty years.

During the Victorian period boots of all kinds reached the peak of their popularity. Although the
Wellington had been almost entirely abandoned in England in favor of the short ankle boot by the
1860s, the style survived in United States and contributed to the development of the cowboy boot.
The cowboy boot is believed to have originated in Kansas, and is considered to be a combination of
the Wellington and the high heeled boots of the Mexican vaqueros. In the United States the Hessian
continued to be worn as well and can be seen in photographs of the outlaw "Billy the Kid" from the
1870s.

Twentieth Century

In the early years of the twentieth century, boots were still prevalent but soon abandoned by
fashionable dress in the 1920s. In this period boots returned to their functional role, and traditional

48
forms remained in use for specific military and sport activities. The exception to this was the vogue
among women for knee-high leather Russian boots which featured relatively high heels and a side
zipper for a close fit. In the second half of the twentieth century, boots reemerged as an important
element in the counterculture fashions favored by the young. Early rebels adopted the sturdy
Engineer or Motorcycle boot as a visible sign of their rebellion inspired by films such as The Wild
One and Rebel Without a Cause. In the late 1950s a trend developed for elastic side boots copied
from the nineteenth-century originals, but with the addition of a high heel and a pointed toe which
were worn with the new slim-fitting tapered trouser. These were the Chelsea boots and would later
become known as "Beatle boots."

Women saw an explosion of fashion boots after 1960. On the other hand styles were increasingly
unisex in the 1970s, with both genders wearing suede chukka boots, cowboy boots, and high zip-up
platform boots. The Dr. Martens boot, originally designed as an orthopedic shoe in the 1940s, was
adopted by the punk counter-culture in the 1970s, but by the 1990s had been assimilated into
popular fashion. Masculine-styled boots worn by women have been considered extremely
provocative, especially when paired with more conventional symbols of femininity.

https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fashion-accessories/boots

Napolean’s boots

Form and Function

While traditional forms of boots continue to be worn throughout the world for specific functions,
they have also played an important role in fashion throughout history.

49
Dress and casual
Dress shoes are characterized by smooth and supple leather uppers, leather soles, and narrow
sleek figure. Casual shoes are characterized by sturdy leather uppers, non-leather outsoles, and
wide profile.
Some designs of dress shoes can be worn by either gender. The majority of dress shoes have an
upper covering, commonly made of leather, enclosing most of the lower foot, but not covering
the ankles. This upper part of the shoe is often made without apertures or openings, but may also
be made with openings or even itself consist of a series of straps, e.g. an open toe featured in
women's shoes. Shoes with uppers made high to cover the ankles are also available; a shoe with
the upper rising above the ankle is usually considered a boot but certain styles may be referred to
as high-topped shoes or high-tops. Usually, a high-topped shoe is secured by laces or zippers,
although some styles have elastic inserts to ease slipping the shoe on.
Men's

This male dress shoe, known as a derby shoe, is distinguished by its open lacing.
Men's shoes can be categorized by how they are closed:
 Oxfords (also referred as "Balmorals"): the vamp has a V-shaped slit to which the laces
are attached; also known as "closed lacing". The word "Oxford" is sometimes used by
American clothing companies to market shoes that are not Balmorals, such as bluchers.
 Derby shoe: the laces are tied to two pieces of leather independently attached to the
vamp; also known as "open lacing" and is a step down in dressiness. If the laces are not
independently attached to the vamp, the shoe is known as a blucher shoe. This name is, in
American English, often used about derbys.
 Monk-straps: a buckle and strap instead of lacing
 Slip-ons: There are no lacings or fastenings. The popular loafers are part of this category,
as well as less popular styles, such as elastic-sided shoes.
Men's shoes can also be decorated in various ways:

50
  Plain-toes: have a sleek appearance and no extra decorations on the vamp.
 Cap-toes: has an extra layer of leather that "caps" the toe.
 Brogues (American: wing-tips): The toe of the shoe is covered with a perforated panel,
the wing-tip, which extends down either side of the shoe. Brogues can be found in both
balmoral and blucher styles, but are considered slightly less formal.

Formal high-end men's shoes are manufactured by several companies around the world, amongst
others in Great Britain, France, Hungary, Romania, Croatia, Italy, and to a lesser extent in the
United States. Notable British brands include: Church's English Shoes (est. 1873), John Lobb
Bootmaker (est. 1849), Edward Green Shoes (est. 1890), and Crockett & Jones (est. 1879). Both
John Lobb and Edward Green offer bespoke products. In between the world wars, men's
footwear received significant innovation and design, led by cobblers and cordwainers in
London's West End. A well-known French maker is J.M. Weston. Armani of Italy was a major
influence on men's shoe design in the 1960s–1980s until they returned to the larger proportions
of its forebears, the welt-constructed Anglo-American dress shoe originally created in Edwardian
England. Another well-known Italian company is Salvatore Ferragamo Italia S.p.A.. Higher end
companies in the United States are Allen Edmonds and Alden Shoe Company. Alden, located in
New England, specializes in genuine shell cordovan leather from the only remaining horse
tannery in the US, in Chicago and is completely manufactured domestically, whereas Allen
Edmonds, of Wisconsin, is a larger company that outsources some of its production.

Women's High heel sandals

51
Women's high heel pump (right- above)
There is a large variety of shoes available for women, in addition to most of the men's styles
being more accepted as unisex. Some broad categories are:
 High-heeled footwear is footwear that raises the heels, typically 2 inches (5 cm) or more
above the toes, commonly worn by women for formal occasions or social outings.
Variants include kitten heels (typically 1 1⁄2–2 inches high) and stiletto heels (with a very
narrow heel post) and wedge heels (with a wedge-shaped sole rather than a heel post).
 Mules are shoes or slippers with no fitting around the heel (i.e. they are backless)
 Slingbacks are shoes which are secured by a strap behind the heel, rather than over the
top of the foot.
 Ballet flats, known in the UK as ballerinas, ballet pumps or skimmers, are shoes with a
very low heel and a relatively short vamp, exposing much of the instep. They are popular
for warm-weather wear, and may be seen as more comfortable than shoes with a higher
heel.
 Court shoes, known in the United States as pumps, are typically high-heeled, slip-on
dress shoes.
Unisex
 Clog
 Platform shoe: shoe with very thick soles and heels
 Sandals: open shoes consisting of a sole and various straps, leaving much of the foot
exposed to air. They are thus popular for warm-weather wear, because they let the foot be
cooler than a closed-toed shoe would.
 Saddle shoe: leather shoe with a contrasting saddle-shaped band over the instep, typically
white uppers with black "saddle".
 Slip-on shoe: a dress or casual shoe without shoelaces or fasteners; often with tassels,
buckles, or coin-holders (penny loafers).
 Boat shoes, also known as "deck shoes": similar to a loafer, but more casual. Laces are
usually simple leather with no frills. Typically made of leather and featuring a soft white
sole to avoid marring or scratching a boat deck. The first boat shoe was invented in 1935
by Paul A. Sperry.

52
  Slippers: For indoor use, commonly worn with pajamas.
Dance
A wide variety of footwear is used by dancers. The choice of dance shoe type depends on the
style of dance that is to be performed and, in many cases, the characteristics of the surface that
will be danced on.
 Pointe shoes are designed for ballet dancing. These have a toe box that is stiffened with
glue and a hardened sole so the dancer can stand on the tips of their toes. They are
secured by elastic straps and ribbons that are tied to the dancer's ankles.
 Ballet shoes are soft, pliable shoes made of canvas or leather, with either continuous or
two-part sole (also called split-sole), used for ballet dancing. The sole is typically made
of leather, with thicker material under the ball and heel of the foot, and thinner and thus
more flexible material under the arch so that the foot can be easily pointed. They are
typically secured by elastics across the top of the foot.
 Ghillies are soft shoes that are used in Irish dance, Scottish country dance, and highland
dance.
 Jazz shoes typically have a two-part rubberized sole (also called split-sole) to provide
both flexibility and traction, and a short heel. They are secured to the foot by laces or
elastic inserts.
 Tango and Flamenco shoes are used for tango or flamenco dancing.
 Ballroom shoes fall into two categories: Ballroom and Latin American. Both are
characterised by suede soles. Men's ballroom shoes are typically lace-ups with one-inch
heels and patent leather uppers. Ladies' ballroom shoes are typically court shoes with
two-inch heels, made of fabric that can be colored to match the dancer's dress. In contrast
to the low Ballroom heel, which evenly distributes weight across the foot, Latin
American shoes have higher heels designed to shift weight onto the toes. Latin shoes are
also more flexible than ballroom shoes. Men's Latin shoes typically have 1.5- to 2-inch
high, shaped heels, while Ladies' Latin shoes have 2.5-inch to 3-inch heels. Ladies shoes
are typically open-toed and strapped.
 Dance sneakers are lightweight sneakers with reinforced rubber toes that allows dancers
to briefly stand on their toes. These are known by various trademarked names, such as
dansneakers.

53
  Foot thongs are slip-on, partial foot covers that cover the ball of the dancer's foot so as to
reduce friction while executing turns, thus making it easier to perform turns and also
protecting the foot from skin abrasions. From a distance, flesh colored foot thongs give a
dancer the appearance of having bare feet. They are known by various names depending
on the manufacturer, including dance paws, foot undies, and foot paws.
 Tap shoes have metal plates mounted to the bottoms of the toe and heel. The metal plates,
which are known as taps, make a loud sound when struck against a hard performance
surface. Tap shoes, which are used in tap dancing, may be made from any style of shoe to
which taps can be attached.
 Character shoes are leather shoes with one- to three-inch heels, usually with one or more
straps across the instep to secure it to the foot. They may be soft-soled (suede) or hard-
soled. They may be converted to tap shoes by attaching taps.

Pointe shoes.Ballet shoes.Jazz shoes. Foot thong…………..Ghillies

 

 
Ladies' ballroom shoes, Men's ballroom shoe.Tap shoes

Orthopedic
Orthopedic shoes are specially-designed footwear to relieve discomfort associated with many
foot and ankle disorders, such as blisters, bunions, calluses and corns, hammer toes, plantar
fasciitis, or heel spurs. They may also be worn by individuals with diabetes or people
with unequal leg length. These shoes typically have a low heel, tend to be wide with a
particularly wide toe box, and have a firm heel to provide extra support. Some may also have a
removable insole, or orthotic, to provide extra arch support.

54
Measures and sizes

World's largest pair of shoes, Riverbank Center, Philippines—5.29 metres (17.4 ft) long and 2.37 metres (7 ft 9 in) wide, equivalent to a French
shoe size of 75.

The measure of a foot for a shoe is from the heel to the longest toe. Shoe size is an
alphanumerical indication of the fitting size of a shoe for a person. Often it just consists of a
number indicating the length because many shoemakers only provide a standard width for
economic reasons. There are several different shoe-size systems that are used worldwide. These
systems differ in what they measure, what unit of measurement they use, and where the size 0 (or
1) is positioned. Only a few systems also take the width of the feet into account. Some regions
use different shoe-size systems for different types of shoes (e.g., men's, women's, children's,
sport, or safety shoes).

Units for shoe sizes vary widely around the world. European sizes are measured in Paris Points,
which are worth two-thirds of a centimeter. The UK and American units are approximately one-
quarter of an inch, starting at 8¼ inches. Men's and women's shoe sizes often have different
scales. Shoes size is often measured using a Brannock Device, which can determine both the
width and length size values of the foot.
Accessories
 Foam tap: a small foam pad placed under the ball of the foot to push the foot up and back
if the shoe is too loose.
 Heel grip: used to prevent the shoe from slipping on the heel if the fit is not perfect
 Overshoes or galoshes: a rubber covering placed over shoes for rain and snow protection.
 Shoe bag: a bag that protects shoes against damage when they are not being worn.
 Shoe brush and polishing cloth: used to apply polish to shoes.
55
  Shoe insert, insole or inner sole: orthopedic or regular insert of various materials for
cushioning, improved fit, reduced abrasion or to keep shoe fresh and increase its
durability. These include padding and inner linings. Inserts may also be used to correct
foot problems.
 Shoe polish: a waxy material spread on shoes to improve appearance and glossiness, and
provide protection.
 Shoe stretcher: a tool for making a shoe longer or wider or for reducing discomfort in
areas of a shoe.
 Shoe tree: placed inside the shoe when user is not wearing it, to help maintain the shoe's
shape.
 Shoehorn: can be used to insert a foot into a shoe by keeping the shoe open and providing
a smooth surface for the foot to slide upon.
 Shoelaces: a system used to secure shoes.
 Snow shoe: a wooden or leather piece that increases the area of ground covered by the
shoe.

A boot, plural boots, is a type of specific footwear. Most boots mainly cover the foot and

the ankle, while some also cover some part of the lower calf. Some boots extend up the leg,
sometimes as far as the knee or even the hip. Most boots have a heel that is clearly
distinguishable from the rest of the sole, even if the two are made of one piece. Traditionally
made of leather or rubber, modern boots are made from a variety of materials. Boots are worn
both for their functionality – protecting the foot and leg from water, extreme cold, mud or
hazards (e.g., work boots may protect wearers from chemicals or use a steel toe) or providing
additional ankle support for strenuous activities with added traction requirements (e.g., hiking),
or may have hobnails on their undersides to protect against wear and to get better grip; and for
reasons of style and fashion.

56
The most famous advertisement for boots is the 300 year old literary fairy tale about
an anthropomorphic cat who uses trickery and deceit to gain power, wealth, and the hand of a
princess in marriage for his penniless and low-born master.

The oldest telling is by Italian author Giovanni Francesco Straparola, who included it in his The
Facetious Nights of Straparola (c. 1550–1553) in XIV–XV. Another version was published in
1634 by Giambattista Basile with the title Cagliuso, and a tale was written in French at the close
of the seventeenth century by Charles Perrault (1628–1703), a retired civil servant and member
of the Académie française.

Perrault's Histoires has had considerable impact on world culture. The original Italian title of the
first edition was Costantino Fortunato, but was later known as Il gatto con gli stivali (lit. The cat
with the boots); the French title was "Histoires ou contes du temps passé, avec des moralités"
with the subtitle "Les Contes de ma mère l'Oye" ("Stories or Fairy Tales from Past Times with
Morals", subtitled "Mother Goose Tales"). The frontispiece to the earliest English editions
depicts an old woman telling tales to a group of children beneath a placard inscribed "MOTHER
GOOSE'S TALES" and is credited with launching the Mother Goose legend in the English-
speaking world.

portrait of Charles Perrault . famous cat by Gustav Dore. Canvas print from 1864

Plot

57
The tale opens with the third and youngest son of a miller receiving his inheritance—a cat. At
first, the youngest son laments, as the eldest brother gains the mill, and the middle brother gets
the mules. The feline is no ordinary cat, however, but one who requests and receives a pair of
boots. Determined to make his master's fortune, the cat bags a rabbit in the forest and presents it
to the king as a gift from his master, the fictional Marquis of Carabas. The cat continues making
gifts of game to the king for several months, for which he is rewarded.

One day, the king decides to take a drive with his daughter. The cat persuades his master to
remove his clothes and enter the river which their carriage passes. The cat disposes of his
master's clothing beneath a rock. As the royal coach nears, the cat begins calling for help in great
distress. When the king stops to investigate, the cat tells him that his master the Marquis has
been bathing in the river and robbed of his clothing. The king has the young man brought from
the river, dressed in a splendid suit of clothes, and seated in the coach with his daughter, who
falls in love with him at once.

The cat hurries ahead of the coach, ordering the country folk along the road to tell the king that
the land belongs to the "Marquis of Carabas", saying that if they do not he will cut them into
mincemeat. The cat then happens upon a castle inhabited by an ogre who is capable of
transforming himself into a number of creatures. The ogre displays his ability by changing into
a lion, frightening the cat, who then tricks the ogre into changing into a mouse. The cat then
pounces upon the mouse and devours it. The king arrives at the castle that formerly belonged to
the ogre, and, impressed with the bogus Marquis and his estate, gives the lad the princess in
marriage. Thereafter, the cat enjoys life as a great lord who runs after mice only for his own
amusement.

The tale is followed immediately by two morals: "one stresses the importance of

possessing industrie and savoir faire while the other extols the virtues of dress, countenance, and
youth to win the heart of a princess. This is the theme in France, but other versions of this theme
exist in Asia, Africa, and South America.

In some cases, the wearing of boots may be required by laws or regulations, such as the
regulations in some jurisdictions requiring workers on construction sites to wear steel-toed safety
boots. Some uniforms include boots as the regulated footwear. Boots are recommended as well
for motorcycle riders. High-top athletic shoes are generally not considered boots, even though
they do cover the ankle, primarily due to the absence of a distinct heel. In Britain football
(soccer) cleats are also called boots.

Early boots consisted of separate leggings, soles, and uppers worn together to provide greater
ankle protection than shoes or sandals. Around 1000 BC, these components were more
permanently joined to form a single unit that covered the feet and lower leg, often up to the knee.

58
A type of soft leather ankle boots were worn by nomads in eastern Asia and carried to China to
India and Russia around AD 1200 to 1500 by Mongol invaders. The Inuit and Aleut natives of
Alaska developed traditional winter boots of caribou skin or sealskin featuring decorative
touches of seal intestine, dog hair and suchlike. 17th century European boots were influenced by
military styles, featuring thick soles and turnover tops that were originally designed to protect
horse mounted soldiers. In the 1700s, distinctive, thigh-high boots worn by Hessian soldiers
fighting in the American Revolutionary War influenced the development of the iconic
heeled cowboy boots worn by cattlemen in the American west.
Types and uses.Practical uses

59
A pair of ISO 20345:2004 compliant S3 steel-toed safety boots designed for construction workers and a pair of
hobnailed boots.A pair of A-12 OXCART Flight Suit Boots( below)

Fashion boot terminology

Boots which are designed for walking through snow, shallow water and mud may be made of a
single closely stitched design (using leather, rubber, canvas, or similar material) to prevent the
entry of water, snow, mud or dirt through gaps between the laces and tongue found in other types
of shoes. Waterproof gumboots are made in different lengths of uppers. In extreme cases, thigh-
boots called waders, worn by anglers, extend to the hip. Such boots may also be insulated for
warmth. With the exception of gum boots, boots sold in general retail stores may be considered
"water resistant," as they are not usually fully waterproof, compared to high-end boots for fishers
or hikers.

Speciality boots have been made to protect steelworkers' feet and calves if they accidentally step
in puddles of molten metal, to protect workers from a variety of chemical exposure, to protect
workers from construction site hazards and to protect feet from extreme cold (e.g., with insulated
or inflatable boots for use in Antarctica). Most work boots are "laceups" made from leather.
Formerly they were usually shod with hobnails and heel- and toe-plates, but now can usually be
seen with a thick rubber sole, and often with steel toecaps.[2]
Boots are normally worn with socks to prevent chafes and blisters, to absorb sweat, to improve
the foot's grip inside the boot, or to insulate the foot from the cold. Before socks became widely
available, footwraps were worn instead.Specialty boots have been designed for many different
types of sports, particularly riding, skiing, snowboarding, ice-skating, and sporting in wet/damp
conditions.

Fashion and fetish use

60
A pair of "classic" black leather Doc Martens.

While these boots were originally designed as workwear (they are resistant to petrol, alkaline
chemicals and other substances), they were adopted as a fashion item by the skinhead and punk
subcultures.
Bovver boots, Doc Martens boots and army boots were adopted by skinheads and punks as part
of their typical dress and have migrated to more mainstream fashion, including women's wear.
As a more rugged alternative to dress shoes, dress boots may be worn (though these can be more
formal than shoes). Fashionable boots for women may exhibit all the variations seen in
other fashion footwear: tapered or spike heels, platform soles, pointed toes, zipper closures and
the like. The popularity of boots as fashion footwear ebbs and flows. Singer Nancy
Sinatra popularized the fad of women wearing boots in the late 1960s with her song "These
Boots Are Made for Walkin'". They were popular in the 1960s and 1970s (particularly knee-high
boots), but diminished in popularity towards the end of the 20th century. In the 2010s, they are
experiencing a resurgence in popularity, especially designs with a long bootleg. Boot bolos, boot
bracelets, boot straps, boot chains, and boot harnesses are used to decorate boots. Sandal boots
also exist. High leather boots are the object of sexual attraction by some people, notably boot
fetishists.

Calfhigh leather boots with stiletto heel (Le Silla).

Exhibit of the world's largest boot - Mongolian shoemaking. Museum Complex Tsonzhin
Boldog, Mongolia
 Boots that are particularly old and well worn, or a similarly tough item are referred to as
being tough and strong with the phrase "tough as old boots."
 A discarded boot may be used in the construction of a musical instrument known as
the "mendoza."

61
 Tall (high) boots may have a tab, loop or handle at the top known as a bootstrap, allowing
one to use fingers or a tool to provide better leverage in getting the boots on. The
figurative use "to pull one's self up by one's bootstraps" in the sense of "ability to perform
a difficult task without external help" developed in the 19th century in US English. The
term "bootstrapping" was subsequently used in a metaphorical sense in a number of
fields, notably computing (which uses the term "bootup" to describe the process of
starting a computer and in entrepreneurship, which uses the term "bootstrapping" to
describe start-up companies which are launched without major external financing.
 To "die with one's boots on" means to die while one is still actively involved in work or
to go down fighting. Popularized by Wild West movies.
 Boot camp: a colloquial term for the initial recruit training of a new recruit enlisting in
a military organization or armed force. In this context, a "boot" is just such a recruit.
 Stormtroopers and other agents of authority or units used for political strongarm tactics
such as intimidation are typically referred to by their detractors as "jackbooted thugs," a
reference to the hobnailed military jackboot of the World War I
German Stormtrooper and later Nazi uniform. Authoritarian rule, either by hostile
military forces, or by groups of armed intimidators, is imposed by "jackboot tactics."
 To "give one the boot" means to kick one out (of a job, a club, etc.) or expel one, either
literally or figuratively.
 To "put the boot in" is an idiom for inflicting violence on someone.
 "The boot is on the other foot now" means that a situation has become reversed—a
previous victor is now losing, for example.
 Wearing "seven-league boots" references a classic children's fairy tale and indicates that a
person or company can cover great distances, figuratively or literally, in a single stride.
 To "shake/quake in one's boots" means to be very frightened, and is mostly used
sarcastically.
 "Knocking boots" is slang for having sex, regardless of whether either person is wearing
boots.
 The country of Italy is referred to as "lo Stivale" (the Boot) due to its shape.

62
A pair of New Rock boots, popular in the Gothic and biker subcultures
Heels:It is remarkable that the first shoes were welted as early as the late Middle Ages, meaning
that the shoe construction that we still use today actually dates back to this period. This
technique was used, amongst other reasons, to create a new, fashionable trend: broad shoes with
short tips (also called “duck bill”, “cow-mouth” or “bear claw” shoes).
Heels first came into fashion in the 16th century. Originating from Spain, the trend of ladies’
shoes featuring a platform attached to the soles spread to England, France and Italy. At the very
beginning, they were used as a necessity in an attempt to keep women's feet raised away from the
dirty streets. The positive associations regarding fashion (i.e. elongated legs, a slimming effect
and appearing taller) are ideals that have arisen more recently.
Although shoes did not feature a heel until this time, they became popular in shoes for both
genders in 17th century. This was not just down to fashion reasons - they also had practical uses.
The heel made the shoes more durable as it could be simply swapped or replaced when it became
worn down

63
 .
The most expensive painting of a pair of sandals. 23 million British Pounds -Pool and Steps -David Hockney

Footwear industry
World Shoemaking is the process of making footwear.
Originally, shoes were made one at a time by hand, often by groups of shoemakers ( cordwainers
as explained before). In the 18th century, dozens or even hundredsof masters, journeymen and
apprentices (both men and women) would work together in a shop, dividing up the work into
individual tasks. A customer could come into a shop, be individually measured, and return to
pick up their new shoes in as little as a day. Everyone needed shoes, and the median price for a
pair was about one day’s wages for an average journeyman.

64
The shoemaking trade flourished in the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries but began to be
affected by industrialization in the later nineteenth century. Traditional handicraft shoemaking
has now been largely superseded in volume of shoes produced by industrial mass production of
footwear, but not necessarily in quality, attention to detail, or craftsmanship. Today, most shoes
are made on a volume basis, rather than a craft basis. A pair of "bespoke" shoes, made in 2020
according to traditional practices, can be sold for thousands of dollars.
Shoemakers may produce a range of footwear items, including shoes, boots, sandals, clogs and
moccasins. Such items are generally made of leather, wood, rubber, plastic, jute or other plant
material, and often consist of multiple parts for better durability of the sole, stitched to a leather
upper part.

Trades that engage in shoemaking have included the cordwainer's and cobbler's trades. The term
cobbler was originally used pejoratively to indicate that someone did not know their craft; in the
18th century it become a term for those who repaired shoes but did not know enough to make
them. For most of history, shoemaking has been a handicraft, limited to time-consuming
manufacturing by hand. Traditional shoemakers used more than 15 different techniques for
making shoes. Some of these were: pegged construction, English welted (machine-made versions
are referred to as "Goodyear welted" after the inventor of the technique), goyser welted,
Norwegian, stitchdown, turnout, German sewn, moccasin, bolognese stitched, and blake-stitched.
The most basic foot protection, used since ancient times in the Mediterranean area, was the
sandal, which consisted of a protective sole, held to the foot with leather thongs or cords of
various materials. Similar footwear worn in the Far East was made from plaited grass or palm
fronds. In climates that required a full foot covering, a single piece of untanned hide was laced
with a thong, providing full protection for the foot and so made a complete covering.
The production of clogs (wooden shoes) was widespread in medieval Europe. They were made
from a single piece of wood roughly cut into shoe form. A variant of this form was a wooden
sole to which a leather upper was attached. The sole and heel were made from one piece of
maple or ash two-inches thick, and a little longer and broader than the desired size of shoe. The
outer side of the sole and heel was fashioned with a long chisel-edged implement, called the
clogger’s knife or stock; while a second implement, called the groover, made a groove around
the side of the sole. With the use of a 'hollower', the inner sole's contours were adapted to the

65
shape of the foot. The leather uppers were then fitted closely to the groove around the sole. Clogs
were of great advantage to workers in muddy and damp conditions, keeping the feet dry and
comfortable.

By the 1600s, leather shoes came in two main types. 'Turn shoes' consisted of one thin flexible
sole, which was sewed to the upper while outside in and turned over when completed. This type
was used for making slippers and similar shoes. The second type united the upper with an insole,
which was subsequently attached to an out-sole with a raised heel. This was the main variety,
and was used for most footwear, including standard shoes and riding boots.

The traditional shoemaker would measure the feet and cut out upper leathers according to the
required size. These parts were fitted and stitched together. The sole was next assembled,
consisting of a pair of inner soles of soft leather, a pair of outer soles of firmer texture, a pair of
welts or bands about one inch broad, of flexible leather, and lifts and top-pieces for the heels.
The insole was then attached to a last made of wood, which was used to form the shoe. Some
lasts were straight, while curved lasts came in pairs: one for left shoes, the other for right shoes.
The 'lasting' procedure then secured the leather upper to the sole with tacks. The soles were then
hammered into shape; the heel lifts were then attached with wooden pegs and the worn out-sole
was nailed down to the lifts. The finishing operation included paring, rasping, scraping,
smoothing, blacking, and burnishing the edges of soles and heels, scraping, sand-papering, and
burnishing the soles, withdrawing the lasts, and cleaning out any pegs which may have pierced
through the inner sole.
Other types of ancient and traditionally made shoes included furs wrapped around feet, and
sandals wrapped over them (used by Romans fighting in northern Europe), and moccasins -
simple shoes without the durability of joined shoes.

Industrial era
The industrial revolution altered society and its demands
The serial production of shoes became possible for the first time in 1830 as a result of
industrialisation. The invention of the sewing machine enabled to large-scale development of the
footwear industry. What was once merely a handcrafted tradition characterised by the individual

66
manufacturing of products became an industry with a focus on serial production. This, along
with other technical advancements of the industrial revolution, made shoemaking cheaper and
more cost-effective than ever before. Whilst shoes were once an extremely expensive luxury,
meaning that many people were not able to afford shoes at all (instead wrapping their feet in
linen, wearing wooden clogs or walking barefoot), by the 19th century, shoes had become
accessible for large sections of the population.Shoemaking became more commercialized in the
mid-18th century, as it expanded as a cottage industry.

Despite the obvious economic gains of mass-production, the factory system produced shoes
without the individual differentiation that the traditional shoemaker was able to provide.
The first steps towards mechanisation were taken during the Napoleonic Wars by the engineer,
Marc Brunel. He developed machinery for the mass-production of boots for the soldiers of the
British Army. In 1812 he devised a scheme for making nailed-boot-making machinery that
automatically fastened soles to uppers by means of metallic pins or nails.[6] With the support of
the Duke of York, the shoes were manufactured, and, due to their strength, cheapness, and
durability, were introduced for the use of the army. In the same year, the use of screws and
staples was patented by Richard Woodman. However, when the war ended in 1815, manual
labour became much cheaper, and the demand for military equipment subsided. As a
consequence, Brunel's system was no longer profitable and it soon ceased business.

Up until the middle of the 19th century, no distinction was made between the left or the right
shoe. Only standard lasts existed. The shoe was not bought to fit the foot, but rather the shoe
adapted to the feet through wear.  Production methods were refined during the course of the
industrialisation during the 19th century. This was when measures used for length and width first
emerged - the same ones that are in use today. Differentiating between various lasts and
producing shoes in pairs became a standard process in manufacturing. This progress was
achieved through the two-ball design of the sole and the cut of the vamp.

The way in which society was constantly changing, as well as the class system being abolished
and more classes within the population promoting the industrial revolution also had a positive

67
impact on changes in shoe fashion. The division between the aristocrats and the commoners no
longer existed. The middle classes rose in prominence and shoe fashion reflected this, becoming
more tailored towards these people. A man working for a factory owner also needed practical
footwear – namely work shoes. Only a few people could afford an additional second pair – so-
called “Sunday shoes” that were primarily worn for going to church. Increased levels of wealth
were shown by the women in the family, with the first basic signs of women’s shoe fashion
emerging across society.

Similar exigencies at the time of the Crimean War stimulated a renewed interest in methods of
mechanization and mass-production, which proved longer-lasting. A shoemaker in Leicester,
Tomas Crick, patented the design for a riveting machine in 1853. His machine used an iron plate
to push iron rivets into the sole. The process greatly increased the speed and efficiency of
production. He also introduced the use of steam-powered rolling-machines for hardening leather
and cutting-machines, in the mid-1850s.

The sewing machine was introduced in 1846, and provided an alternative method for the
mechanization of shoemaking. By the late 1850s, the industry was beginning to shift towards the
modern factory, mainly in the US and areas of England. A shoe stitching machine was invented
by the American Lyman Blake in 1856 and perfected by 1864. Entering into partnership with
McKay, his device became known as the McKay stitching machine and was quickly adopted by
manufacturers throughout New England. As bottlenecks opened up in the production line due to
these innovations, more and more of the manufacturing stages, such as pegging and finishing,
became automated. By the 1890s, the process of mechanisation was largely complete.The AGO
system is the industrial process for manufacturing stitchless (glued) shoes.

A process for manufacturing stitchless, that is, glued, shoes—AGO—was developed in 1910.The
first effective and reliable adhesive was invented and patented in 1909 by the Italian chemist
Francesco Rampichini, who also developed the whole manufacturing process and the relevant
machinery in 1910–13.The name AGO (from the Greek ago, meaning "attract", "fasten"), still
used in the industry, was chosen by Rampichini for the glue and the process in 1910.

68
Traditional shoemakers still exist today, especially in poorer parts of the world, and create
custom shoes. Current crafters, in developing regions or supply constrained areas may use
surplus car or truck tire tread sections as an inexpensive and plentiful material resource with
which to make strong soles for shoes or sandals. Generally, the modern machinery used includes
die cutting tools to cut the shapes and grommet machines to punch holes for lacing. Early 21st
century has seen a resurgence in the shoemaking profession, particularly in the United States,
Australia and the United Kingdom. This has been driven in large part by broader societal
preferences in favour of leather restoration rather than replacement and extends to not only shoes
but also handbags and other leather fashion accessories. Meanwhile, organizations within the
industry have begun leveraging e-commerce and modern logistical networks to offer consumers
greater convenience through the offering of services by mail.

Sewing machine for shoemaking, shoe repair, and bag and heavy fabric repair work. This
machine is manually operated with a hand crank. The foot can be turned in any direction which
changes the direction of the material feed.
People well-known as shoe makers:
• Raymond Lewis Wildsmith, shoemaker who invented the loafer design.
• Ravidas, Satguru of the Ravidassia religion, and member of the marginalized Chamar
caste of cobblers and other leather workers
• Salvatore Capezio, founder of the manufacturer of dance shoes Capezio
• Salvatore Ferragamo, an Italian shoe designer
• Jimmy Choo, a Malaysian Chinese fashion designer based in London
• Christian Louboutin, French footwear designer
• Adolf Dassler

Early 20th Century Styles

As at the close of the 19th century, low-heeled shoes began to fall increasingly out of favor and as
the new century dawned, higher heels made a huge resurgence. However, not everyone was
willing to suffer for fashion. In 1906, Chicago-based podiatrist William Mathias Scholl launched
his eponymous brand of corrective footwear, Dr. Scholl’s. By the 1910s, morality and fashion
were increasingly at odds. Nice girls were expected to play by a stringent set of rules, including

69
those instituted with regard to the heel height of women’s shoes. Anything over three inches was
considered “indecent.”
Spectator shoes, the two-toned Oxfords commonly worn by British patrons of sporting events
gained huge popularity among the well to do in England at the close of WWI. In America,
however, spectators became part of the counterculture instead. By the ’40s, spectators often
accompanied Zoot suits, the over-the-top outfits sported by African American and Hispanic men
in defiance of the fashion status quo.
One of the most innovative shoe designers of the 20th century, Salvatore Ferragamo, rose to
fame in the 1930s. In addition to experimenting with unusual materials including kangaroo,
crocodile, and fish skin, Ferragamo drew on historic inspiration for his shoes. His cork wedge
sandals—often imitated and reimagined—are considered one of the most important shoe designs
of the 20th century.

Meanwhile, in Norway, a designer named Nils Gregoriusson Tveranger was looking to create a
shoe that was truly comfortable and fashionable. His unisex innovation, a slip-on shoe called the
Aurland moccasin was inspired by Native American moccasins and slip-ons favored by
Norwegian fishermen. The shoes took off, both in Europe and in America. Not long after, the
Spaulding family based in New Hampshire launched a similar shoe called "The Loafer," which
would eventually become the generic term for this slip-on style.

In 1934, G. H. Bass debuted his Weejuns (a play on the word “Norwegian” as a nod to the
homeland of the original designer). Weejuns had a distinctive strip of leather across the saddle
featuring a cutout design. Kids who wore them started putting pennies or dimes into the slot, and
the shoes became known as—you guessed it—"Penny Loafers."
The boat (or deck) shoe was invented by American boater Paul Sperry in 1935. After watching
how his dog was able to maintain stability on ice, Sperry was inspired to cut grooves into the
soles of his shoes and a brand was born.

Post World War II & the Latter Half of the 20th Century
WWII was the crucible for a number of shoe trends. Doc Martens, combining comfortable air-
cushioned soles with durable uppers were invented by Dr. Klaus Maertens in 1947. In 1949,

70
Brothel creepers, the brainchild of British shoemaker George Cox, transformed the sole of an
army boot into a thick exaggerated wedge made their debut.
Loafers had long been considered a shoe of the hoi polloi in America but when the style was
reinvented in 1953 by the House of Gucci, it became the shoe of choice for formal occasions for
affluent fashion enthusiasts of both genders and remained so through the 1980s.
Stiletto heels (whose name was a nod to a Sicilian fighting blade) became increasingly popular in
the 1950s as the curvy female hourglass figure came back into vogue. Designer Roger Vivier of
the House Dior is credited as having the most influence on shoes of this style from the period.
While they’ve existed for more than 6,000 years in some form or other, the Y-shaped rubber
sandals known as flip-flops became pretty much ubiquitous in the 1960s.
The Birkenstock family have been making shoes since 1774, however, it wasn’t until 1964 when
Karl Birkenstock transformed the arch support inserts for his shoes into soles for sandals that the
company became a household name.
Shoe store
A shoe store or shoe shop is a type of retailer that specializes in selling shoes. From slippers to
athletic shoes to boots, the store could also sell shoe accessories, including insoles, shoelaces,
shoe horns, shoe polish, etc. In addition, shoe stores may provide clothing and fashion
accessories, such as handbags, sunglasses, backpacks, socks, and hosiery.
A shoe repair shop is a type of business establishment that fixes and remodels shoes and boots.
Besides a shoe repair shop, a shoe repairer could work in department stores or shoe stores.In
Europe, the footwear industry has declined in the last years. Whereas in 2005, there were about
27,000 firms, in 2008 there were only 24,000. As well as the number of firms, the direct
employment has decreased. The only factors that remained almost steady was the value added at
factor cost and production value. In the U.S., the annual footwear industry revenue was $48
billion in 2012. There are about 29,000 shoe stores in the U.S. and the shoe industry employs
about 189,000 people. Due to rising imports, these numbers are also declining. The only way of
staying afloat in the shoe market is to establish a presence in niche markets.

Safety of footwear products

To ensure high quality and safety of footwear, manufacturers have to make sure all products
comply to existing and relevant standards. By producing footwear in accordance with national

71
and international regulations, potential risks can be minimized and the interest of both textile
manufacturers and consumers can be protected. The following standards/regulations apply to
footwear products:

Heraldry is a broad term, encompassing the

design, display, and study of armorial bearings
(known as armory), as well as related
disciplines, such as vexillology, together with
the study of ceremony, rank, and pedigree.

Coat of arms of Aresches municipality in

France (left) displays a boot in the heraldic
left field.

Boots were used by knights for riding. As a

In Heraldry consequence, albeit not common, boots came
to be used as charges in heraldry. When boots
are used in heraldry, they are often displayed
as riding boot. They are sometimes adorned
with spurs. Boots were also used in coats of
arms of shoemakers' guilds and in shop signs
outside their shops.

Only 2 Coat of arms of the royalty in Indian subcontinebt have boots of their ensignias

72
 Dogra Akkar

REFERENCE

1. Gerald Porter,Folk Music Journal,Vol. 7, No. 1 (1995), pp. 43-61,Published by: English Folk
Dance + S

BIBLIOGRAPHY
1.Bellis, Mary. "The History of Shoes." ThoughtCo, Feb. 11, 2020
2.“Timeline: A History of Shoes”. Victoria & Albert Museum
3.“History of the Penny Loafer”. Tricker’s England
4.Acedera, Shane. “The Most Expensive Air Jordans”. SportOne. May 18, 2018
5.Cartwright, Mark. “Foot Binding”. Ancient History Encyclopedia. September 27, 2017
6.Bellis, Mary. "The History of Shoes." ThoughtCo, Feb. 11, 2020,
thoughtco.com/history-of-shoes-1992405.

73
London Hanged: crime and civil society in the eighteenth century, Peter Linebaugh( painting
Below)

The life of a shoemaker was a hard scrabble life, for their trade depended on leather, the
purchase of which required money or credit. Some shoemakers were known to stretch their
goods by reducing the thickness of the leather used for heels and soles. Others, desperate to feed
their families, would steal food or clothing and be jailed or, worse, hung after they were caught.

Cobbler, cobbler,
mend my shoe
Get it done by half
past two.
Half past two is much
too late,
Get it done by half
past eight.
Cobbler, cobbler,
mend my shoe
Get it done by half
past two.
Stitch it up and stitch
it down
And I'll pay you a
shiny crown

Cobbler, cobbler,
mend my shoe
Get it done by half
past two.
Half past two is much
too late,
Get it done by half
past eight.

Cobbler, cobbler,
mend my shoe
Get it done by half
past two.
Stitch it up and stitch
it down
And I'll pay you a
shiny crown

74
Moroccan Cobbler (above) Indian below.
75
She was executed for wearing boots in battle

76
CATWOMEN in BOOTS
In Bizarre Fashion-The Double-Voiced Discourse of John Willie's Fetish Fantasia
JULIA PINE,Journal of the History of Sexuality,Vol. 22, No. 1 (JANUARY 2013), University of
Texas Press

77
 CHAPTER 2

ANCIENT FOOTWARE of BHARAT

When Ravana abducted Sita, she threw her jewelery to create a trail on
the ground so Lord Ram would follow it. When Lord Ram found it, He
showed it to his brother Lakshmana.
He showed the ring, the bracelet, the necklace but Lakshmana did not
recognize any of it But when He showed Him the Nupur of the Feet,
Lakshmana recognized it immediately. Lakshmana said I have never
looked at Mother Sita all my life. I have only looked at Her Lotus Feet
……… .and that is why He only recognized the Nupur.1

78
Shri Paduka Stotrum
Anantha samsara samudhra thara naukayithabhyamguru bhakthithabhyam,
Vairagya samrajyadha poojanabhyam, namo nama sri guru padukhabyam.1
Kavithva varasini sagarabhyam, dourbhagya davambudha malikabhyam,
Dhoorikrutha namra vipathithabhyam, namo nama sri guru padukhabyam. 2
Natha yayo sripatitam samiyu kadachidapyasu daridra varya,
Mookascha vachaspathitham hithabhyam ,namo nama sri guru padukhabyam.3
Naleeka neekasa pada hrithabhyam, nana vimohadhi nivarikabyam,
Nama janabheeshtathathi pradhabhyam namo nama sri guru padukhabyam. 4
Nrupali mouleebraja rathna kanthi sariddha raja jjashakanyakabhyam,
Nrupadvadhabhyamnathaloka pankhthe, namo nama sri guru padukhabyam. 5
Papandhakara arka paramparabhyam, thapathryaheendra khageswarabhyam,

79
Jadyadhi samsoshana vadaveebhyam namo nama sri guru padukhabyam.6
Shamadhi shatka pradha vaibhavabhyam,Samadhi dhana vratha deeksithabhyam,
Ramadhavadeegra sthirha bhakthidabhyam, namo nama sri guru padukhabyam.7
Swarchaparana makhileshtathabhyam, swaha sahayaksha durndarabhyam,
Swanthachad bhava pradha poojanabhyam, namo nama sri guru padukhabyam. 8
Kaamadhi sarpa vraja garudabhyam, viveka vairagya nidhi pradhabhyam,
Bhodha pradhabhyam drutha mokshathabhyam, namo nama sri guru padukhabyam. 9

1.My prostration to holy sandals of my Guru, which serve as the boat to cross this endless ocean
of Samsara,( life) which endow me with devotion to Guru, and which grace with the valuable
dominion of renunciation.
2. My prostrations to the holy sandals of my Guru, which serve as the down pour of water to put
out the fire of misfortunes, which remove the groups of distresses of those who prostrate to them.
3. My prostrations to the holy sandals of my Guru, adoring which the worst poverty stricken,
have turned out to be great possesors of wealth, and even the mutes have turned out to be great
masters of speech.
4. My prostrations to the holy sandals of my Guru, which remove all kinds of ignorant desires,
and which fulfill in plenty, the desire of those who bow down to them.
5. My prostrations to the holy sandals of my Guru, which shine like the precious stones that
adorn the crownof kings, by bowing to which one drowned in worldliness will be lifted up to the
great rank of sovereignty
6. My prostrations to the holy sandals of my Guru, which serve as the Sun smashing all the
illusions of sins, which are like garuda birds in front of the serpents of the three pains of
Samsara; and which are like the terrific fire that dries away the ocean of jadata or insentience.
7. My prostrations to the holy sandals of my Guru, which endows one with six attributes which
can bless with permanent devotion at the feet of the Lord Rama and which is initiated with the
vow of charity and contentmen.
8. My prostrations to the holy sandals of my Guru, which bestows all the wishes of those who are
absorbed in the Self, and which grace with one’s own hidden real nature.
9. My prostrations to the holy sandals of my Guru, which are like garudas to all the serpents of
desire, and which bless with the valuable treasure of discrimination and renumciation, and which
enlighten with bodha- the true knowledge, and bless with instant liberation from the shackles of
the world.

Introduction: Skin was a valuable material even from the time of God. There is a particular
reference of the skin of elephant used as cloth by Lord Shiva in the Hindu epic Mahabharata.
Again, Lord Shiva, the Greatest Destroyer in the Hindu Triad was used to sit on a tiger’s skin for
2
his deep meditation and penance .
. The deer skin was used as seat by the Brahmanas of ancient India. According to Webster’s
Encyclopedic Unabridged Dictionary of the English language, the meaning of the term skin is
the external covering or integument of an animal separated from the body usually with its hair or
feathers, especially when soft and flexible. Thus, Great Gods and very ancient and primitive man
80
used the raw skin of animals for their day to day multipurpose activities. Many passages in the
ancient literature of the Hindu Epics show that even in those early days, the use of skin had been
discovered and a high value was set on them. It is evident from such writings that clothing was
one of the earliest and principal items to which skins were used. However, it is also impossible to
fix any date as to the commencement of the use of the skin in the universe

Leather is made from raw skin of animals. The meaning of the term leather as given in the
Webster’s Encyclopedic Unabridged Dictionary of the English language is “the skin of animals
prepared for use by tanning or similar process designed to preserve it against decay and to make
it pliable of supple when dry”. The origin of the art of leather making from the skin cannot in
anyway be calculated and the art may rightly be said to have sprung into existence from the
3
misty depths of antiquity . However, when the history of mankind is traced back a number of
references are such articles as quivers of leather, drums, leather armor, whips and even of leather
bags. In the time of Rig-Veda written about 3000 B.C., leather mashaks Bags) for water were
well known and Indra was praised as piercing the rain confining skins or mashaks of clouds.
Bottles of the same materials also were evidently in common use during those days. Straps and
bands were manufactured with leather and hides and sails were also made of the same materials.
In 2000 B.C. Agastya the revered Vedic sage noted recluse and an influential scholar in diverse
languages who authored hymns 1.165 to 1.191 in the Sanskrit text Rigveda and other Vedic
literature, in his poison neutralizing mantra says, “I deposit the poison in the solar orb like
leather bottle in the house of vendor of spirits.”
 
According to the Law books of Sankhya and Likhita in 2000 B.C., that water is declared pure
which is kept in old leather bottles. Leather bags were universally used for raising water from
wells. Atri in 2000 B.C. is likewise of the same opinion and adds that flowing water and that
which is raised by machinery are not defiled”. The use of such words as charmanta, charmapath,
varatra, chasabandha etc. in old Sanskrit works indicate that straps, bands and strings of leather
were in common use and sails were also made of leather or hide. In the Laws of Manu in 800
B.C. mashaks for water are alluded to under the name of driti and its peculiar form with the four
feet left intact is pointed out. Directions are also given for the purification of leather articles.
Leather shoes are mentioned in the code of Manu as a suitable gift for Guru. In another place in
81
the same work the taking off leather sandles with hands is classified amongst prohibited acts.
Other smritis ordained that oleaginous articles preserved in leather bottles do not become impure
by the contact of cow hide.

Elsewhere, leather gauntlets, quivers and jewellery cases found in Egyptian graves dates back to
300 B.C. They give some indication of the great age of the craft. The articles, which may be
regarded as early leather goods, were manufactured by same craftsman who produced sandals
and other footwear. Marcopolo states in 1290 A.D. that “the curing of hides and the manufacture
of leather were two of the most important of Gujarat industries. Every year a number ships went
to Arabia laden with the skins of goats, oxen, unicorns and other animals. The leather was used
for sandals and was cleverly worked into red and blue sleeping mats exquisitely inlaid with
figures, birds and beasts and skillfully embroidered with gold and silver wire.” Production of
leather goods remained a part of the shoe maker’s work right up to medieval times when it was
taken over by the book binding trade which was then growing in importance. Uttar Pradesh in
India occupied a predominant position in the making of finely crafted ‘joothis’ and leather wear
for Mughuls and the elitist society of the Mughul Court. In the South leather formed one of the
items of trade between the South Indian states and the Greek and the Roman kingdoms of
Europe.Leather is a versatile, durable and prestigious material, with a wide range of desirable
attributes - such as flexibility, strength, mould ability, breathability, friction resistance and with
the possibility of being prepared in a way to be resistant to heat and water. Leather will retain its
appearance and its functional properties if it is correctly handled and maintained.

Barefoot is the most common term for the state of not wearing any footwear. Wearing footwear
is an exclusively human characteristic, however some animals held by humans are also issued
with footwear, such as horses and, more rarely, dogs and cats. There are health benefits and some
risks associated with going barefoot. Footwear provides protection from cuts, abrasions, bruises,
and impacts from objects on the ground or the ground texture itself, as well as from frost or heat
burns, and parasites. However, shoes can limit the flexibility, strength, and mobility of the foot .
Walking and running barefoot results in a more natural gait, allowing for a more rocking motion
of the foot, eliminating the hard heel strike and therefore generating less collision force in the
foot and lower leg.

82
People in ancient times, such as the Egyptians, Hindus, and Greeks often went barefoot, as the
inhabited terrain mostly mandated no practical necessity for footwear. The Egyptians and Hindus
made some use of ornamental footwear, such as a soleless sandal  now called Cleopatra, which
did provide some practical protection for the foot. Athletes in the Ancient Olympic
Games participated barefoot and generally unclothed. Even the gods and heroes were primarily
depicted barefoot. In fact most of the artists right from the early 1900’s drew Hindu Gods as
barefoot.

In most religions, the exposure of bare feet is regarded as a sign of humility and subjection. Foot
washing, or ceremonial washing of others' feet, is associated with humility in Hinduism. In
Indian culture, in many an instance, being barefoot has a cultural significance. For example, it is
customary to remove footwear when entering a home or a temple so as shoes are considered
impure. Indians also traditionally sit on the floor when eating meals as opposed to at a dining
table, which would normally entail taking off footwear.

83
Fashion in Ancient India: History would like us o believe that Fashion is something the west
introduced in India. Fashion was not introduced after the landing of Vasco da Gama in 1498.
The sculptures in the Konark Temple, dedicated to Sun God (750AD has sculptures of women
wearing High heeled shoes, carrying portable mirrors and wearing even see through skirts!
Classics belonging to Tamil Sangam period detail the procedure for make- up of women, even to
the extent of the process of preparing eyeliner. Sanskrit Literature too talks about the makeup
used by women of ancient India and the Kama Sutra of Vatsyayana talks in detail the makeup
used by prostitutes.

84
Tamil women did not wear upper garment in the ancient days. But they wore a strip of cloth, tied
by a string to cover their upper torso, which resembles a Bra. Have you ever seen a 750 year old
sculpture in an Indian temple carved wearing high heels? One of the most surprising sculptures
I’ve ever seen is from Konark Sun Temple in Odisha which was built at least 750 years ago. You
can see here that this beautiful woman is carved with high heels on both her legs.

This is absolutely incredible, because European women started to wear high heels or platform
shoes for beauty only after 1600 A.D. And this temple was built around 1250 A.D which is 350
years before that time. People from around the world have worn platform shoes for different
purposes like horse riding etc., but you can see that this woman is just wearing this to look
beautiful while posing for the sculptor. These resemble modern day high heels and it is almost an
exact match. This is not the only carving in this temple and you can see a few others where the
women are proudly showing off their high-heeled footwear.

parshwa devatas, with boot-like shoes covering the feet of the God(above)

  Ancient Indian women were very advanced in terms of fashion? I would say yes, because you
can also see quite a few sculptures where the women are shown looking at their personal hand-
held mirrors. Again, remember that we are looking at a temple that was built 750 years ago and
women must had had personal mirrors in every household at that time. Compare this with a

85
modern day woman who carries a small mirror in her purse. These gadgets are perceived as
European inventions but from these carvings, it is quite possible that Indian women also carried
portable mirrors many centuries ago. There are many such sculptures of Indian women getting
dolled up all over India, so it is fair to say that they focused on their beauty a lot.

Ancient sculptures show various degrees of transparency in their clothes. For example, this
sculpture only partially shows through her legs which implies that a variety of clothes were
designed at that time.  Ancient Indian women probably spent a lot of time primping and thinking
about fashion just like modern day women.
Shoe Trivia: In ancient India, there was no concept of shoe or slippers. The existing wooden
footwear Paduka was also called the "Khadau" or "Charan Paduka". Saints and sages used to
wear it because, it is believed, they already knew the concept of electric currents in the body and
earth's gravity which absorbed all the constantly flowing waves. This reduced our biological
potency. The saints also seemed to know that wood was a bad conductor of electricity hence
chose it to fashion their Khadaus. The Paduka  is India's oldest, most quintessential footwear. It
is little more than a sole with a post and knob, which is engaged between the big and second toe.
It has been historically worn in South Asia and Southeast Asia as well.

It exists in a variety of forms and materials throughout India. They might be made in the shape of
actual feet, or of fish, for example, and are made of wood, ivory and even silver. They are
sometimes elaborately decorated. The more elaborate shoes could be part of a bride's trousseau,
but could also be given as religious offerings or be themselves the object of veneration. Although
simple wooden padukas could be worn by common people, padukas of fine teak, ebony and
sandalwood, inlaid with ivory or wire, were a mark of the wearer's high status. Today, paduka as
footwear is generally worn by mendicants and saints of Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism. Its
significance in Hinduism is linked to the epic Ramayana. "Paduka" can also refer to the
footprints of deities and saints that are venerated. Paduka also means the footprints of divine
figures such as Vishnu and Shiva and other religious icons that are worshipped in this symbolic
form in houses and also in temples built for this purpose. One such temple is the Vishnupad
Mandir in Gaya, India. Similarly, Buddha footprints are worshipped under the Bodhi
Tree in Bodh Gaya.

86
It is also the royal symbol in Malaysia; "Seri Paduka" denotes "His Majesty", which is a title
bestowed as an honour of recognition to the dignitaries of Malaysian court for their outstanding
contribution to the betterment of their State.

Spiked wooden Paduka of late 19th Century (Source: shoesornoshoes.com)

Some masochistic Hindu ascetics wore spiked paduka for inflicting pain on themselves as an aid
to performing penance

Griha Pravesh: One of the many popular post wedding ceremonies which are followed by
hindus is related with how the bride is going to put her first feet inside the groom home. when
the bride enters the groom house first time then she gently pushes the glass (or pot) filled with
rice. it is done with her right feet in such a way that rice is pushed inside the house.

87
it is believed that bride is the laxmi (goddess of wealth and prosperity) of the house. she is going
to manage the house affairs. in many families, the mother in law hand over the charge of house
as well as its finances.

Hindus believe that every person brings its own destiny. it is commonly believed that some feet
bring fortune in the house and some feet are so inauspicious that when such a person enters the
house then slowly the fortune of the family start falling down. So this custom is done to signify
that bride has come to your home in the form of Goddess Laxmi and she will bring wealth,
fortune and prosperity in the house. this is because in hindu belief system, pot (or glass) filled
with rice is a symbol of prosperity. the pot is completely filled which shows that there is
abundance in the house and rice is used in many auspicious occasions. So, when the bride pushes
the pot completely filled with rice with her right foot (not left foot) inside the home then it
signifies that she will bring prosperity and fortune in that home.

There is one more similar custom followed by many families. The bride is made to dip both her
feet in a big tray (preferably silver) containing solution of vermillion (red kumkum) and water.
then she enter inside the house by putting her right foot first. her footprints (first 7 steps) are
imprinted across the home as she walks. this also signifies that the goddess laxmi has entered
inside the home bringing prosperity and fortune to the groom family.

88
At the entrance of most hindu homes, you can see pair of feet on either side of door. these feet
are pointed towards the entry of house (incoming) and put during the grih parvesh pooja (first
house warming ceremony). they represent goddess laxmi feet and signify that goddess laxmi has
come to your house during the grih parvesh pooja and will bless you with fortune and prosperity.
one can buy these goddess laxmi feet from any shop selling pooja material for around 20 rupees.
another important thing about hindu rituals is that right hand is used while performing them. as
all the auspicious work are done with the right hand and not with left hand. thus during such
ceremonies or grih parvesh ceremony, always put your right foot first.

Married Hindu women wear silver toe rings: Married Hindu women wear many types of
jewelries-most of the time it is worn for fashion or for looking beautiful, but at times it has a
significance and health benefits also. Wearing silver toe rings is one such case.
In ancient times, 6000 years ago, it was found that wearing silver toe rings is good for women
health. it is believed that the nerve from the 2nd toe connects the uterus and passes to the heart.
so wearing silver toe rings on second toe strengthens the uterus and also helps in regularizing the
menstrual cycle.As a custom when a girl is getting married, she is made to wear silver toe rings
on second toe. They are worn in pair, so if a women in india is wearing toe rings then its a sign
that she is married.

89
There is a incident in ancient hindu epic Ramayana about toe ring mentioned earlier; when Sita
is  abducted by demon king Ravana, she threw her toe rings and other jewellery on the way to
leave a trail. When the jewellery is found while searching for Sita, Lakshmana recognized the toe
rings as he used to touch Sita’s feet every morning.

1. Normally silver metal is used for making toe rings Gold rings may also be worn but silver is
cheaper or it could be because no one wants to wear gold below their feet as it will be considered
disrespecting goddess Lakshmi who brings wealth and prosperity in the life.
2. silver toe rings is always worn on second toe and is always worn in pair. People avoid wearing
them only on one foot as it might create imbalance.
3. it is called bichwa or bichiya (pronounced: bee-chee-ya) in hindi, minji in malayalam, jodavi
in marathi, mettelu in telugu, metti/kanaiyazhi in tamil and kaalungura in kannada. so its almost
worn all over india. Some minor adjustment might be needed while wearing it in the first few
days.

Lotus at the feet: There is the legand of Sita in South East Asian Culture. Sita proves her purity
by undergoing a fire ordeal, as seen in a mural detail at the Emerald Buddha Temple. Sita stands
calmly in a gated area with flames burning around the lotus blossom platform on which she
stands. One of the monkey kings lights the fire with a torch in front, while other monkey king
spectators are visible at right.

90
After being separated from Sita for many years during her capture by Ravana, Rama is unsure of
his wife’s fidelity. In order to prove that she has been faithful, Sita willingly undergoes an
ordeal, or trial by fire.
In ancient South Asia, Southeast Asia, and Europe (not to mention colonial America), it was
thought that the innocence of an accused criminal could be proven if they survived some kind
of extreme physical punishment such as burning or drowning. In some versions of the
Ramayana, it is said that lotus flowers sprouted at Sita’s feet to protect her from the fire, or that
not a flower petal in her hair was faded by the fire because the gods, who knew she was pure of
heart, protected her completely.

In Buddhism, on the way, the queen stops at the Lumbini Park,and gives birth to Prince
Siddhartha. When the gods picked and washed the newly born Prince, he walked seven steps
and each step below a lotus flower blooming. Meanwhile, Prince put his hand to the sky
saying: "Divine galaxy, only fall as an independent."
That statement translates as: In the sky under the sun, only one is precious. Buddha's life
shows him who is the most precious in human beings

91
In contemporary Southeast Asian fiction, the story of Rama and Sita is often retold to highlight a
double standard for men versus women: that women are supposed to prove their faithfulness to
men, but the behavior of absent men is never questioned. Some contemporary Southeast Asian
women dislike the character of Rama, seeing him less as a hero whose valor should be modelled
by men today than an old-fashioned man who did not treat his innocent wife properly when she
returned to him.

92
Rare picture showing entry of Rama into Ayodhya wearing footwear, but not padukas

93
 2
Narasimha (left) and Krishna( right)
It is probable that prehistoric humans thought of decorating the body before they thought of
making use of anything that could suggest clothing. Before precious metals were discovered,
people who lived along the seashore decorated themselves with a great variety of shells,
fishbones, fish teeth, and coloured pebbles. People who lived inland used as ornaments
materials from the animals they had killed for food: reindeer antlers, mammoth tusks, and all
kinds of animal bones. After they had been transformed from their natural state into various
elaborate forms, these materials, together with animal skins and bird feathers, provided sufficient
decoration.

This era was followed by one that saw a transition from a nomadic life to a settled social order
and the subsequent birth of the most ancient civilizations. Most peoples settled along the banks
of large rivers, which facilitated the development of agriculture and animal husbandry.

94
Indirectly, this also led to the discovery of virginal alluvial deposits of minerals, first among
which were gold and precious stones.

Jewellery has always occupied an important place in the social and cultural life of India. Initially
men and women used natural material for beautification of the body like leaves  and flowers
followed by beads using other type of material. In course of time, metals like gold  as  used to
make ornaments which continues to this day.

The figure of the bronze dancing girl found at Mohenjodaro, one of the Indus valley sites depicts
her wearing necklaces and a number of bangles. Gold, silver and ivory, copper, bone, shell and
terracotta have all been used to make ornaments. Excavations at Harappa and Mohenjodaro
yielded variety of beads which were strung together and worn as armlets, bracelets, necklaces
and girdles.

Vedic texts make enough references to jewellery and its use to decorate the body. The Ramayana
and Mahabharata, India’s great epics describe jewellery elaborately. When Sita daughter of King
Janaka gets married to Lord Rama, she is bedecked with ear ornaments, nose
ornament, chandrahaar , bracelets, anklets with bells etc. her head ornament the chudamani is
believed to have been given to her father by Kubera, the God of wealth himself. Lord Rama
wears pearls on his crown, and as ear-rings and around his neck. Yudhistira loses a rare pearl
during his gambling game with the Kauravas in the Mahabharata.

Buddhist and Jaina literature mention ornaments. The Jataka tales mention jewellery including
those worn by elephants and horses. The Kalpasutras, Jaina texts describe different ornaments.
In ancient India, following the Indus valley times and the Vedic era, the ascendancy of the
Mauryan dynasty unified the Indian subcontinent. Trade routes opened and rare and new gems
came to India. The Arthshastra written in 3rd century B.C by Kautilya describes jewellery types.

95
Painting shows jewellery and footware in Jataka tales. The author could be modern day’s.

Jewellery was worn both by men and women. The yakshi from Didargunj, Patna wears a
headband, a pendant, girdle on her waist and anklets. Terracotta figures from this age also depict
jewellery. Bharhut, Sanchi, Bodhgaya and Amaravati are attributed to the Sunga and Satavahana
phase of Indian history. Their art reveals a variety of ornaments used on
head,ears,neck,arms,waist and feet. Motifs were drawn from nature or religion. Short necklaces
were called Kanthi and in case it had a large pearl as  a centre-piece it was called sirshak. A
necklace having alternate gold and pearl beads was called Apavartika. Ratnavali was a necklace
having many gems, pearls and gold beads. Shankhavalayas were made of conch,
ratnavalayas set with precious stones, jalavalayas were bracelets with

96
perforations. Mekhala,Kanchi,rasana  and sarasana were different type of girdles. Various
names have been assigned to anklets such as manjira tulakoti, nupura,
padangada,hamsaka and palipada and kinkini for the ones with bells. Trade was prevalent
between South India and Rome at the beginning of Christian era and the gold which came in was
converted into jewellery. Jewellery of Satavahanas is described in Gathasaptasati written in
Prakrit by a ruler. A circular jewel was placed in the centre of the usnisha(turban), kirita(a crown
with jewels) was worn too. Women wore the chudamani and the makarika(crocodile shaped
jewel) was also very popular. Ear kundalas were in vogue. The phalakahara consisting of gold
slabs as very popular among necklaces.

Footware and Jewellery: Even before the ancients began wearing footware and also after they
wore footware, the decoration of the body with jewellery continues unabated. One had not much
to do with the other, only that when barefoot, the need for jewellery was felt more. But no one
knows.

97
Barefoot again: In religions originating in the Indian subcontinent and in the Middle East, it is
customary to remove one's shoes when entering a house of worship. In the Bible, God
commanded Moses to remove his sandals before approaching Him on Mount Sinai. The Eastern
cultural context of this narrative regards shoes as bringing in dust into the home and removing
one's shoes "would be a way of recognizing one's personal uncleanness in the presence of
holiness." Hinduism and Islam also regard feet as being unclean; it is considered sacrilegious to
touch books with one's feet and an insult to point one's feet at someone. As such, in many
mandirs (temples) and mosques, as well as in churches and synagogues of the Indian
subcontinent and Middle East, it is customary for worshippers to remove their shoes before
entering a house of worship, where they believe they are entering into the presence of the divine.
How the ancients sat down or stood was also made easier by naked feet: There is evidence to
suggest that Shoes Hurt You and therefore the logical thing to do would be to remove them.

Standing Barefoot is Healthier

Shoes can protect feet, but they often cause more problems up the chain. The soles of the feet
have hundreds of nerve endings and joint motion receptors that send constant feedback to the
brain about the environment and body position. Each of your feet has 26 bones, 3 different
arches, and a variety of specialized muscles to control your ankle, foot, and toe movements.
Research shows that during barefoot standing, 60% of weight is supported by the heels, 28% by
the forefoot, and 8% by the mid-foot. For you visual learners, that looks like this:
All that complicated circuitry works together to keep standing upright position ( because the
body is an unstable inverted pendulum).
The feet and brain together also form a control loop. The brain has a “desired balance” input, and
can tell (from sensors throughout your body) what your “current balance” actually is. Brain
constantly compares the desired and current balance states, and enacts changes through your
motors (muscles) to achieve/maintain the desired balance condition. Very complicated stuff that
occurs multiple times per second.
How Shoes Disturb Your Brain’s Balance Control

98
Shoes hurt this system because they limit the motion the joints in your feet experience, atrophy
your muscles, and reduce the quality of the sensory input information that your feet return to
your brain.

Feet confined by shoes are bound to virtually the same surface all day long. Your foot is always
in contact with the same contoured surface of the shoe. This flattens the signal your brain
receives about the current state of your foot activity. Putting shoes on your feet obscures your
brain’s ability to determine how well you’re balancing, and whether its commanded changes in
muscle activity are achieving the desired goal. This will cause your muscles to over- or under-
react when an adjustment to your balance is needed, and it actually causes your brain to work
harder.
When you wear shoes, brain has to solve some complicated motion equations on the fly, because
the sensors in your feet aren’t reporting back effectively. Imagine if you wore thick leather
gloves your whole life. Could you even hope to shoot a basketball accurately?
Walking with shoes is like playing cricket with gloves.

With the control loop disrupted, your brain is bound to take shortcuts and send the wrong signals
to your muscles. This increases the chances of unnatural tissue loading. Problems like locking
your knees, standing asymmetrically, or putting too much weight on your heels.It also blunts

99
what should be important overuse signals. Sure, you might be able to run further in a pair of
cushy athletic shoes. But is running unnaturally far really a good idea?
When you’re wearing shoes, your brain will likely keep at least one muscle group activated too
long – throwing off the symmetry between opposing muscle groups.
That means increased likelihood of sprains, strains, and tears. And don’t even get us started on
the damage done to our elderly population. More bare footing about could have prevented a lot
of broken hips.

As touched on earlier, beyond the physical effects, disrupting one of your brain’s many control
loops may have mental effects as well. In small experiments we’ve run in our office, standers
performed as much as 10-15% better on cognitive tests when barefoot than when wearing hard-
soled shoes. And as we’ve covered before, increasing mental performance just 10% can have
huge positive effects.

Restore Healthy Brain-Foot Connection by Standing Barefoot: After shoes are taken off, the feet
are able to touch and feel the surface of the floor, the carpet, and mat. Movements such as toe
curling, arch flexing, and foot pivoting start happening naturally and spontaneously.

100
Restoring your brain-foot connection will improve your health, happiness, and maybe even
mental performance. And if you’re like us, you’ll really enjoy it
too.http://www.quittingsitting.com/why-standing-barefoot-is-healthier/

101
Ram Gopal Varma’s painting of Ganesh with Riddhi and Sidddhi. Naked feet

102
The name of ancient Hindu foot covering is Paduka.When translated into
English, Paduka literally means ‘Footprints of the Gods’. These are the oldest Indian sandals and
were traditionally made of wood, with a grip being provided by the stub between the big toe and
the other toes. The more elaborate the padukas, the higher the wearer’s status, which is why
some were also made of silver and ivory, with intricate decorations. Today, this type of footwear
is generally worn by Buddhist, Hindu, and Jain saints.

Originally Footwear serves to purpose of protection against the ground texture and temperature.
It can be used for fashion, and adornment as well as to indicate the status. And The Rank of the
status within a social structure. But Today, In our lifestyle Footwear plays a key role to make
person stylists. According to many people, footwear shows a person’s personality, interest, and
choice. I am sure that in those days too such indeed was the case.

Ancient India was the source of religions like Hinduism, Jainism, and Buddhism. From ancient
times wearing leather, footwear was forbidden in India because the Hindus consider cows as
sacred. So the use of sandals made of wood, plant fiber, and metals was in vogue.

Orissa State Museum, Bhubaneswar

High heeled Footwear did not come into our lives until the 1970s. But our ancestors wore them
in India several centuries before. At the archaeological site at Chandraketugarh, about 35 km

103
north-east of Kolkata. Footwear with a raised heel and floral motifs used around 200 BC were
found. The elevated footwear must have helped the ladies to give the illusion that they were
much taller than what they were.

The sculpture at the  Ramappa Temple in Warangal, The Ramalingeswara temple also
known as Ramappa gudi is located 77 km from Warangal and 157 km from Hyderabad. Here
one can find  850 years old sculptures. The above sculpture in the Ramappa Temple exemplifies
the fact that fashionable ladies in India wore high-heeled footwear. Again,  there could have been
a more practical reason – to keep their feet and clothing clean. By the way, from ancient times
Sudras the low caste people in India were not allowed to wear any type of footwear on public
roads. They had to carry them in their hands. One can see this phenomenon even now in many
villages in India.

Paduka, Garamur Sutra 

104
Paduka
The term paduka is a compound word made up of two Sanskrit words namely, “pada” (foot) and
“ka“, a diminutive ending literally meaning “small”. According to legends, The
word pada (‘foot’) is cited in the ancient Hindu scripture – Rigveda. Representing the universe
namely the Prithvi (earth), Vayu(Air), Akash(Sky) and the element of the realm beyond the sky.
It also means the footprints of divine figures such as Vishnu and Shiva. 

The paduka has a sole with a post and knob. The wearer of it grips the post and knob between
their big and second toe to keep the foot in place. Since it does not have straps of any kind to
keep them adhered to the feet, it must have been difficult to walk wearing them. The wearers
would have dragged their feet along the ground accompanied by funny movements of their hips.

Fine teak ebony and sandalwood went into the making of the paduka for the affluent embellished
with leather and fur. Large floral and leaf motifs are carve and embedded. It inlaid with beads,
stones, crystals, ivory, and metals such as copper, bronze and iron. It took on a variety of forms
such as the actual shape of feet, or of fish (a symbol of fertility and plenty in India), or animals.
Today paduka as footwear is generally worn by the mendicants and saints of Hinduism,
Buddhism, and Jainism. Its significance in Hinduism is linked to the epic Ramayana.The first
universal Paduka Poojan (worship) of Lord Rama performed by Bharatha is called the first
universal Satchidananda Utsav (Celebration of Truth, Consciousness, and Bliss).

Padukas are often associate with Indian sadhu—mendicants, holy men, and gurus. The two
narrow, curved stilts reflect the principle of non-violence practiced by Hindus and Jains. It

105
minimizing the risk of accidentally trampling insects and vegetation. Made of precious, luxurious
materials, paduka become ornaments in a bride’s trousseau, serve as ritual objects of veneration
for devotees or become votive offerings from the faithful.

Ramayana :

“kushiilavau tu dharmjnau raajaputrau yashasvinau |

bhraatarau svarasampannau dadarsha aashramavaasinau ||
sa tu medhaavinau drishhthvaa vedeshu parinshthitau |
vedopabriihmanaarthaaya taavagraahayata prabhuh ||
kaavyam raamaayanam kritsnam saeetaayaashcharitam mahat |
paulastya vadhamityeva chakaara charitavratah||

The princes, the brothers, Kusha and Lava, were knowledgeable about Dharma and were
glorious. Their voices were melodious and they lived in the hermitage of (Valmiki). He
(Valmiki), established in good deeds, observed those two extremely intelligent (princes), skilled
in the Vedas, and for the sake of expounding the Vedas, he composed and made them study the
poem sampoorna-Ramayana (the entire Ramayana) containing the great story of Seeta and the
slaying of Ravana.

These verses from the Valmiki Ramayana clearly show that the sage Valmiki composed the
Ramayana to expound the meaning of the Vedas. Valmiki was also of the opinion that this was
an epic of Seeta describing her struggle in life as Sahadahrminee (equal partner) and
Dharmapatni (wife focused on Dharma). That is why he calls it Seetacharitam and not
Ramayana. Perhaps Vedavyasa changed the title to Ramayana while editing.

A Vedic hymn (Rig Veda 4:57) recites:

Auspicious Sita, come thou near;
We venerate and worship thee
That thou mayst bless and prosper us
And bring us fruits abundantly.
In Harivamsa, Sita is invoked as one of the names of the goddess Arya:
O goddess, you are the altar's center in the sacrifice,
The priest's fee
Sita to those who hold the plough
And Earth to all living being.

106
Ancient spiritual thoughts such as the Ramayana have glorified Indian footwerar.Valmiki
glorifies the Padukas (wooden clogs) of Rama in Ramayana.

 Lord Rama himself allowed His sandals to rule the kingdom for the benefit of the people.
Through one sandal Sri Rama established his father’s adherence to Satya-paalanam (protection
of Truth) and through the other, honored the appeal of Bharata.  Bharata acted as a regent only
and did not sit on the throne to rule Ayodhya in Rama’s absence.  

Vedanta Desika’s Paduka Sahasram occupies a unique place among the Vaishnavite Bhakti
literature. The sandals of the Lord are more sublime than the Lord Himself. According to Sri
Desika, the sandals represent a blend of two goddesses who are the heroines of this great poetical
composition. All the followers of Vaishnavaite faith hold no second opinion about the greatness
and glory of the Padukas. Valmiki perhaps had the following Veda mantra in mind in this
glorification of Rama’s clogs that can be interpreted differently as you see later:

 
 Charanam  Pavitram vitatam puraanam yena pootas-tarati dushkritaani |
Tena pavitrena suddhena pootaa ati paapmaanam-araatim tarema ||

107
He who is rendered holy by the ancient, widespread, sanctifying feet crosses over evil deeds and
their effects. Having been rendered holy by that naturally purifying feet of the Lord, may we
overcome our enemies, the sins, by virtuous conduct!

This Mantra from Taittareeya Brahmana.  While taking bath in standing in waist-deep waters
this mantra is chanted before taking a plunge. This is also chanted while a holy person’s feet are
ceremoniously washed.  Charanam in singular, meaning foot stands for Charana Devata Vishnu,
implying feet of Lord Narayana.     That is why you find a pair of Vishnu’s feet being worshiped
in all Vishnu temples, popularly known as Vishnupaada. Hindus chant this mantra while
worshiping the Vishnu-paada.   Vishnu-paada Pooja  is  very popular and these silver-icons are
invariably brought from Badrinath after being blessed by Lord Badrinath and kept at home as
treasure for daily worship or for worship  on special occasions and “sraddha” ritual.

Tears nor sighs nor sad entreaty Rama’s changeless purpose shook,
Till once more with hands conjoined Bharat to his elder spoke:

“Rama, true to royal mercy, true to duties of thy race,

Grant this favour to thy mother, to thy brother grant this grace,

Vain were my unaided efforts to protect our father’s throne

Town and hamlet, lord and tiller, turn to thee and thee alone!

Unto Rama, friends and kinsmen, chiefs and warriors, turn in pain,
And each city chief and elder, and each humble village swain,

Base thy empire strong, unshaken, on a loyal nation’s will,

With thy worth and with thy valour serve their faithful people still!”

Rama raised the prostate Bharat to his ever loving breast,

And in voice of tuneful hansa thus his gentle speech adrest:

“Trust me, Bharat, lofty virtue, strength and will to thee belong,
Thou could’st rule a world-wide empire in thy faith and purpose strong,

And our father’s ancient ministers, ever faithful, wise and deep,
They shall help thee with their counsel and thy ancient frontiers keep,

List! The Moon may lose his lustre, Himalaya lose his snow,
Heaving ocean pass his confines surging from the caves below,

But the truth abiding Rama will not move from promise given,
He hath spoke and will not falter, help him righteous Gods in heaven!”

Blazing like the Sun in splendour, beauteous like the Lord of Night,

108
 Rama vowed his Vow of Duty, changeless in his holy might!

“Humble token”, answered Bharat, “still I seek from Rama’s hand,

Token of his love and kindness, token of his high command,

From thy feet cast forth those sandals, they shall decorate the throne,
They shall nerve my heart o duty and shall safely guard thy own,

They shall to a loyal nation absent monarch’s will proclaim,

Watch the frontiers of the empire and the people’s homage claim!

Rama gave the loosened sandals as his humble younger prayed,

Bharat bowed to them in homage and his parting purpose said:

“Not alone will banished Rama barks and mated tresses wear,
Fourteen years the crowned Bharat will in hermit’s dress appear,

Henceforth Bharat dwells in palace guised as the hermit of the wood,

In the sumptuous hall of feasting wild fruit is his only food,

Fourteen years will pass in waiting, weary toil and penance dire,
Then, if Rama comes not living, Bharat dies upon the pyre!”  (II.122.9-26)

Valmiki Ramayana translated by Romesh Dutt…https://tamilandvedas.com/tag/paduka-puja/

Bharata Asks for Rama's Footwear.Painting by Balasaheb Pant Pratinidhi, 1916

109
Use of footwear in India can be traced way back to 200 BC. We can see features of the kings
wearing boots in various coins and paintings of the Kushan period (130 BC to 185 AD) and
the Gupta period (320 to 550 AD). In ancient times, wearing leather was not considered good
in India as the cow was considered as scared hence sandles made of wood, plant fibers, metals
were used. The Sanskrit word pāduka is derivative of pāda "foot". This terminology was coined
to define India's ancient archetypal footwear.

The word pada ('foot') is cited in the ancient Hindu scripture - Rigveda, as representing the
universe namely the  Prithvi (earth), Vayu (air), Akash (sky) and the element of the realm
beyond the sky.

Vedas: The history of footwear goes back to old Vedic period. Some of the written evidence are. 
1. In ancient Indian texts Rigveda, Yajurveda Samhita, Atharvaveda, Brahmans, and Panini
Grammer, footwear has been mentioned with Sanskrit term ‘ Upanah’ or ‘Upanat’. These
footwear (sandals and shoes) were made from grass, wood, and leather. The oldest forms of
footwear still being worn in India are the Paduka, a simple thong sandle made with a wooden sole
and a knob on a post between the big toe and second toe.
2. As per great epic Ramayana, Bharata returned from Chitrakuta carrying the Rama’s paduka (toe-
knob sandal or khadau) and ruled the Ayodhya after placing the paduka on a throne in
Nandigram, as Rama’s proxy. Ravana also holds an umbrella and wears shoes while assuming the
form of ascetic for Sita’s abduction.
3. According to Mahabharata, once Jamadagni got enraged seeing her wife Renuka exhausted in the
scorching sun and started sending arrows against Sun god. Then Sun god presented him with a
pair of sandals and an umbrella to protect against the heat from below and above. In this great
epic, shoes (upnate) and sandal or toe knob sandal (paduka or padu) are clearly differentiated. It
also mentions that footwear stealer is born as an “Otikyata” (a lizard)
4. In Shrimad Bhagwat Puran, Lord Vamana is mentioned wearing an umbrella and shoes. Lord
Krishna never wore shoes while herding the cows.
5. While leaving the princely life in the 5th century BC, Lord Buddha is mentioned in scriptures
having taken off his sandals.
6. Banabhatta, the court-poet of emperor Harsh Vardhan has mentioned in his book Harshacharita
(7th century) footwear.
7. Mahavyutpatti (800-815 CE), which contains the Sanskrit and Tibetan terms for understanding
Buddhist texts has mentioned the footwear as Padavestanika, Pula, Manda-pulah, etc.
8. Abhidhan Cintamani of Hemchandracharya (11th century) footwear are classified in several
categories including Upanat (shoes), Paduka (sandals), Padarakasana, etc.

110
 9. Padukaduka Sahasram of Swami Vedantha Desika (1269 AD-1370 AD) contains the 1000 verses
on the padukas of Lord Vishnu, whose statue is enshrined in Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple
(Tamil Nadu).

Physical evidence of the footwear in India

At the archaeological site at Chandraketugarh, about 35 km north-east of Kolkata, footwear with a raised
heel and floral motifs used around 200 BC were found. The footwear worn at that time was fancy with
moccasins, cotton-padded, partridge-wing, ram-horn, goat-horn and peacock feathers.

Shilabalika sculpture in the Ramappa Temple ( Left ) &Ramappatemple sculpture Source:

Twitteremple near Warangal, as mentioned earlier, exemplifies the fact that fashionable ladies in
India wore high-heeled paduka. This clearly shows that high heels were used in 850 years ago. A
Sculpture at Veerabhadra Temple, Lepakshi can be seen wearing high heels (Left Below). This

111
sculpture is said to be of God Shiva as a beggar with Goddess Parvati. Sculpture at Veerabhadra

Temple, Lepakshi

Paduka on sculpture, Orissa State Museum, Bhubaneswara

112
 The Buddha statue (Sun Temple Gujrath on the right)

Surya, stone image from Deo-Barunarak, Bihar, Source: https://www.britannica.com/

Among all Hindu deities, only Sun god is portrayed wearing the footwear. Modhera Sun temple ( 11th
century CE) of Gujarat shows him wearing a belt and long shoes. The granite Sun statue of Dakshinaarka
Sun Temple (13th century) of Gaya depicts him wearing a jacket, waist girdle, and high boots.
Gold coin of Kushan period and Gupta Period( Below) Kushan period( (130 BC to 185 AD) India,
the gold coin can be seen with king wearing full boots. The coin of the Gupta period (320 to 550 AD)
shows kings wearing full boots decorated with buttons. Ajanta cave paintings-below

113
Ajanta cave paintings (4th to 5th century) also portray the people wearing stockings along with full boots.

kushan gold coin Source: Ancientresource.com(Below)

Gupta Period Coin showing footwearnindia.com/

Paduka in Hindu mythology

114
Painted Indian pāduka collector Hans Sloane (1660–1753). Now with the British Museum

Ramayana:
“kushiilavau tu dharmjnau raajaputrau yashasvinau |
bhraatarau svarasampannau dadarsha aashramavaasinau ||
sa tu medhaavinau drishhthvaa vedeshu parinshthitau |
vedopabriihmanaarthaaya taavagraahayata prabhuh ||
kaavyam raamaayanam kritsnam saeetaayaashcharitam mahat |
paulastya vadhamityeva chakaara charitavratah ||

The princes, the brothers, Kusha and Lava, were knowledgeable about Dharma and were
glorious. Their voices were melodious and they lived in the hermitage of (Valmiki). He
(Valmiki), established in good deeds, observed those two extremely intelligent (princes), skilled
in the Vedas, and for the sake of expounding the Vedas, he composed and made them study the
poem sampoorna-Ramayana (the entire Ramayana) containing the great story of Seeta and the
slaying of Ravana.

Indian Footwear
Whether hot or cold India is a vast territorial entity which is garbed with a variety of weather,
climate, seasons all round the year. From the chilly Himalayan mountain regions of north India,
to the Southern tip of kanyakumati -a variety of boots and shoes have been made over the
centuries to protect the feet from cold and rainy weather. These boots and shoes are made of
leather, wool, and plant fibers. But since the weather in most of India is warm, shoes were not
necessary, and for much of history, Indians went barefoot.

Your feet be praised: Without the need for footwear, Indian culture developed a unique history
of praising the feet. Mothers massage the feet of their babies. Youth honor the feet of elders.
Someone seeks forgiveness at the feet of his or her victim. Lovers caress each other's feet to

115
show their devotion. Indians traditionally keep their feet as clean as their hands, and even today
villages often have at least one craftsman devoted to the manufacture of products to clean the
feet, especially foot scrubbers made of stone or metal. Literature written as early as 2500 b.c.e.
documents the use of toe rings, ankle bracelets, and foot ornaments. Indian religious and
romantic literature abounds with references to the power of the feet, indicating their cultural
significance.

But in the areas of India where shoes are not necessary because of the warm weather, footwear,
although not worn daily, has become an important part of religious devotion and other
ceremonies. Ceremonial footwear is beautifully made, decorated with embroidery, inlaid with
precious stones and metals, and adorned with bells and tassels. Feet are also painted, dyed, and
covered in ornament for special occasions. Footwear used for ceremony varies from region to
region due to India's many different ethnic and cultural groups. Some of the most common types
of shoes worn in India are toe-knob sandals called padukas, strapped sandals referred to as
chappals, pointed shoes known as juttis, and tall boots called khapusa.

Sandals:
The footwear is typically a sandal, which has generally a wooden sole with a post and a stub to
provide grip to the foot between the big and second toes. It is also known
as karrow, kharawan and karom and used in the Indian subcontinent mostly by mendicants,
saints and common man for special occasions. Made in the shape of the footprints, with two
narrow and curved stilts, the design is specific to ensure that the principle of non-violence -
practised by the saintly followers of Hindu and Jain religions - is not violated by accidental
trampling on insects and vegetation. The often heard prayer on the lips of a Brahmin wearing
such a paduka is: "Forgive me Mother Earth the sin of injury, the violence I do, by placing my
feet upon you this morning."
Padukas made of ivory were in popular use among royalty and saints. These are, however, made
from ivory of dead elephants or extracted from live domesticated elephants. Elephants are not
killed for the purpose of making such sandals because Hindu religious ethos does not permit
such cruel acts. Padukas are also worn by common people. But people of high status in the

116
society wear padukas made out of fine teak, ebony and sandalwood and inlaid with ivory or wire.
It is also made in the shape of a fish, as a symbol of fertility.
Other forms of padukas worn on special occasions are: Silver Paduka incised with silver or of
wood covered with silver plates and sometimes adorned with bells to sound upon
walking; Bronze Padukas and Brass Padukas with significance for ritual and ceremonial use.
A unique pair of wooden padukas has toe knobs inlaid with ivory lotus flowers and is minutely
painted. At each step, a trigger mechanism in the sole signals the lotus to open from bud to
blossom. It is also made in the shape of an hourglass or with carved toes.
Eighteenth-Century footwear used as ritual wear made of "wood with bed of sharp iron spikes"
has been found. It is inferred that it was meant to be used to inflict pain to the wearer to
demonstrate his conviction in religious forbearance of pain.
Veneration
Just as a Shiva Linga represents Siva, a Saligrama represents Vishnu, in the same way,
the Padukas (sandals) of the teacher represent to the student not the sandals, but the concept
behind. What we are invoking is Brahman, the Lord. But we cannot directly go to Him. We want
a symbol. There is no symbol more sacred than the Padukas of the Teacher. We wash the
Padukas and worship them, as though they are the Lord himself. We clean them with love, put
sacred ash, adorn with sandal paste and do all that we do in a Puja at the temple; we worship the
Padukas as though they are that Siva Linga or a Saligrama, invoking Him, the Ideal.

Paduka is also gifted as part of a bride's dowry. They are worshipped and also given as votive
offerings by the faithful believers. In a festival associated with the Hindu god Vithoba, pilgrims
travel to his Pandharpur temple from Alandi and Dehu towns that are closely associated with
poet-saints Dnyaneshwar and Tukaram respectively, carrying the Padukas of the saints in a
silver palkhi (palanquin).The popular religious belief is that of the contact (sparsh) with
the Salabhanjika yakshini's foot. It is said that when the Yakshini encircles a dormant tree with
her leg around it, it starts to blossom and bear fruit. Shalabhanjika yakshi is also an
embellishment in the form of an architectural bracket in many Hindu temples.

117
Paduka of saint Dnyaneshwar is carried in palanquin in a silver bullock cart in procession
from Alandi to Pandharpur

118
Another notable feature of veneration is of goddess Lakshmi, the goddess of prosperity.
On Deepavali festival day, Lakshmi is devotionally ushered into the house by symbolic
representation with a series of her foot prints (paduka) drawn in paint or kolam and lighted all
along with oil lamps, from the main door of the house into the private sanctum in the house. This
is done with the prayerful wish that good fortune shall be bestowed by her on the householders.

Below the Bodhi tree at Bodh Gaya where Buddha got enlightenment, there is a vacant throne
that is adorned with the foot prints on a foot rest of the Buddha. This place is deeply venerated.

.
Tanzanian gogo sandals that resemble Padukas

Vishnupada Mandir is said to enshrine the footprints of god Vishnu. This footprint denotes the
act of Vishnu suduing Gayasur by placing his foot on Gayasur's chest. Inside the temple, the 40
centimetres (16 in) long footprint of Vishnu is imprinted in solid rock and surrounded by a
silver-plated octagonal open enclosure. The temple is 30 metres (98 ft)in height and has 8 rows
of elegantly carved pillars that support the pavilion. Within the temple precincts, the banyan tree
called the 'Akshayabat' is located where the final rituals for the dead takes place. This is believed
that the temple was built with the footprints of Lord Vishnu in the centre. In Hinduism, this
footprint marks the act of Lord Vishnu subduing Gayasur by placing his foot on his chest. Inside
the Vishnupad Mandir, the 40 cm long footprint of Lord Vishnu is imprinted in solid rock and
119
surrounded by a silver plated basin. The height of this temple is 30 meters and it a has 8 rows of
beautifully carved pillars which support the pavilion. The temple is built of large gray granite
blocks jointed with iron clamps. The octagonal shrine faces east. Its pyramidal tower rises up a
100 feet. The tower has sloping sides with alternately indented and plain sections. The sections
are set at an angle to create a series of peaks joined at the top. Within the temple stands the
immortal banyan tree Akshayabat where the final rituals for the dead takes place. On top of the
temple is a gold flag weighing approximately 51 kg. Inside the temple is a (Garv ghiri ) a silver
coated hexagon railing also known as (pahal). Once a demon known as Gayasura, did a heavy
penance and sought a boon that whoever see him should attain salvation (Moksham). Since
salvation is achieved through being righteous in one's lifetime, people started obtaining it easily.
To prevent immoral people from attaining salvation Lord Vishnu asked Gayasura to go beneath
the earth and did so by placing his right foot on asura's head. After pushing Gayasura below the
surface of earth, Lord Vishnu's foot print remained on the surface that we see even today. The
footprint consists of nine different symbols including Shankam, Chakram and Gadham. These
are believed to be weapons of the lord. Gayasura now pushed into earth pleaded for food. Lord
Vishnu gave him a boon that every day, someone will offer him food. Whoever does so, their
souls will reach heaven. The day Gayasura doesn't get food, it is believed that he will come out.
Every day, one or the other from different parts of India will pray for welfare of his departed and
offer food, feeding Gayasura.

Vishnupad Mandir in 1885

The construction date of temple is unknown and it is believed that Rama along with Sita had

visited this place.The present day structure was rebuilt by Devi Ahilya Bai Holkar, the ruler
120
of Indore, in 1787, on the banks of the Falgu river. A flight of 1000 stone steps leads to the top of
the Brahmajuni hill, 1 km southwest of the Vishnupad mandir. Visitors prefer to go to the top of
Brahmajuni hill see the view of temple from top. There are many small temples near this temple.

Param Paduka or the Celestial footware of the Lord

Paduka Sahasram
Paduka Sahasram, literal meaning "1000 verses on the padukas of the Lord", is devotional poetry
extolling the virtues of worshipping the Paduka (feet) of god Vishnu whose deity is enshrined
in Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple in Srirangam in Tamil Nadu. It is considered a sacred script of
the Sri Sampradaya or Sri Vaishnavism, who are known by the surname Iyengar, also
spelt Ayyangar in South India. The Sahasram was composed in 1008 verses in 32 chapters by
Swami Vedantha Desika, a follower of the Vishishtadvaita philosophy propounded by
saint Ramanujacharya. It is also said that Desika composed this magnamopus, as a challenge to
his rival group of Tengalai Iyengars (Iyengars belonging to the southern school of the
Srivaishnava philosophy), in one yamam of a night meaning one quarter of a night, which was
acclaimed as a master piece of religious poetry and he was awarded the title of Mahakavi. The
eulogy of the Lord's Paduka by Desika is spun around Rama's sandals (Paduka), which ruled the
kingdom of Ayodhya for 14 years. He propounds that it was due to the special relationship that

121
people of Ayodhya had with Rama's Paduka that they attained liberation, meaning salvation in
life.

The author Sri Vedanta Desikan (Swami Desika, Swami Vedanta Desika, Thoopul Nigamaantha

Desikan) (1268–1369) was a Sri Vaishnava guru/philosopher and one of the most brilliant
stalwarts of Sri Vaishnavism in the post-Ramanuja period. He was
a poet, devotee, philosopher, logician and master-teacher (desikan). He was the disciple
of Kidambi Appullar, also known as Aathreya Ramanujachariar, who himself was of a master-
disciple lineage that began with Ramanuja.Swami Vedanta Desika is considered to
be avatar (incarnation) of the divine bell of Venkateswara of Tirumalai by the Vadakalai sect of
Sri Vaishnavite. Vedanta Desika belongs to Vishwamitra gotra.
On the occasion of 750th anniversary of Vedanta Desika, Indian postal department unveiled a
stamp to commemorate the great philosopher's life and highly valued works. The stamp was
3
unveiled by Sri Venkaiah Naidu Vice President of India in May 2019.

Paduka Poojan done during Satchidanand Utsav.

Guru Paduka Sthothram Adi Shankaracharya has also written nine devotional verses under the
title "Guru Paduka Sthothram" as salutations to his guru, in this case meaning the Lord. Adi
Shankaracharya was an Indian philosopher and theologian who consolidated the doctrine of
Advaita Vedanta. He is credited with unifying and establishing the main currents of thought in
Hinduism. His works in Sanskrit discuss the unity of the Ātman and Nirguna Brahman "brahman
without attributes" The English language translation of the first verse means:

122
 Salutations and Salutations to the sandals of my Guru,
Which is a boat, which helps me, cross the endless ocean of life,
Which endows me, with the sense of devotion to my Guru,
And by worship of which, I attain the dominion of renunciation.
Paduka Poojan (Worship of Paduka)

1st universal Satchidananda Utsav (Celebration of Truth, Consciousness and Bliss: As per
Ramayana (an ancient Indian epic), Bharatha (brother of Lord Rama, Indian Hindu Deity)
requested for the pious paduka of Lord Rama so that they can be placed on the throne on behalf
of the Lord till he returned from the 14 years of long exile. Bharatha worshipped his padukas in
his absence. This was the first universal Paduka Poojan (worship) of Lord Rama performed by
Bharatha and hence called the first universal Satchidananda Utsav (Celebration of Truth,
Consciousness and Bliss)

123
"Satchidananda Utsav" is organised by Sadguru Shree Aniruddha Upasana Trust (Mumbai,
India) and celebrated every year on the second Saturday of the month of "Margashirsha"(ninth
month of Hindu calendar). It is usually performed for two to five consecutive days. The holy
paduka's worshipped during the Satchidananda Utsav are prepared from the paper pulp of Ram
Naam books issued by Aniruddha's Universal Bank of Ram Naam and written by thousands of
devotees across the world.
1. Untold stories of Ramayan
Majority of Hindus, historians, or religious text experts who have read both Valmiki’s and
Tulsidas’ version of Ramayan, unearthed various excerpts that never received spotlight like the
rest of the legend.
2. Tales from Ayodhya
Of such highlights are the turn of events that happened back in Ayodhya during Lord Rama’s
exile. More or less, we know about the death of King Dasharatha, and Urmila’s deep sleep for 14
years, but not anything else in detail. This is what happened in Ayodhya, in the absence of Lord
Rama, his wife Sita and Laxman.
3. Bharat-Kaikeyi-Manthra

124
Bharat and Shatrughan were at their maternal relative’s place, when Kaikeyi forced Dasharatha
to send Rama to exile. Hearing of this news, Bharat immediate returned to Ayodhya, and in a fit
of rage abused his own mother for her wickedness. When Manthra tried to intervene and
convince Bharat that his mother was thinking of his good fortune, he attacked fatally on
Manthra.
4. Bharat attacking Manthra
He was stopped from committing the cardinal sin of ‘killing a woman’, by Shatrughan. Bharat
then discarded Kaikeyi, cursed her and Manthra for never being able to get place in heaven or in
his heart. Since then, he wholeheartedly committed to serve mother Kausalya and Sumitra.
5. King Dasharatha’s Shradh
Following Dasharatha’s death, the family decides to perform last rites in Ayodhya, but on guru
Vashishtha’s advice, the royal family sans Kaikeyi, Manthra and Urmila, visit Chitrakoot, to
inform Rama of his father’s death.

Just then came there all the three widowed queens. Seeing them in widows’ dresses, Rama began
to grieve bitterly.

Bharata said to Rama, “Dear Father could not bear the sorrow of separation from you, brother.
He breathed his last with your name on his lips. I was with my maternal parents at that time.”
“Oh Dear Father!” exclaimed Rama in sorrow and then said, “I hoped to return to Ayodhya at the

125
expiry of the period of exile. But with dear father’s departure, my enthusiasm has disappeared.”
Then Saint Vasishtha advised Ram a lot and consoled him as well. So, Ram stood in waters of
the Mandakini and offered oblations to the departed soul of his father saying, ”This pious water
should ever keep reaching you.” Next day, Bharata placed before Ram the royal robe and other
articles of coronation and said, “We have come to crown you king here.”

126
“I can never do so, dear brother,” retorted Ram.
“But why after all?” asked Bharata.
“Because I am bound by the boons given by dear father to Mother Kaikeyee,” replied Ram.
“If a person must live in exile for fourteen years to keep the boon of dear father, I am here to do
it, “suggested Bharata.
“No, dear, Bharat, according to his boons, I am to live in exile while you are to mount the throne.
So you must run the government till I am in exile,” argued Ram.
“All right; if this is your wish, I must run the administration but in your name only. These
wooden shoes of yours will be placed on the throne as a token.” Saying so, Bharata returned to
Ayodhya with Ram’s wooden shoes. There all four brothers perform their father’s Shradh.
6. Bharat’s wife Mandavi
When Bharat returned to Ayodhya after failing to convince Ram to come back, he pledged to
place Rama’s ‘paduka’ on the throne and move forward with royal duties. But, he did so, on his

127
own conditions; he abandoned royal luxuries of the palace. Following him, his wife Mandavi too
abandoned all luxuries.

7. Bharat and Mandavi leaving for Nandigram

When Bharat dug his own bed below the earth level, where Rama slept, Mandavi dig her bed
below her husband’s bed to honor her husband. She discarded the palace and moved on to live in
Nandigram with her husband, who ruled both Ayodhya and Kosala, from Nandigram.
8. Shatughan-Shrutakeerti
With none of his brothers in the palace, Shatrughan decided to stay with his wife and look after
their mothers, Kausalya, Kaikeyi and Sumitra, and the administration of Ayodhya Kingdom. It

128
wasn’t Ram-Sita, Laxman-Urmila, or Bharat-Mandavi, but Shatrughan and his wife Shrutakeerti,
who in true sense lived as royal bearers for Ayodhya for 14 years.
9. Kausalya-Smitra
Upon seeing their sons leave for exile, Kausalya and Sumitra, decided to discard the royal
luxuries and serve their dying husband King Dasharatha. After his death, they accompanied
Bharat to convince Rama and Sita to return to Ayodhya. When they refused, Sumitra and
Kausalya decided to settle in Ayodhya, abandoning all luxuries and look after Urmila, who
underwent deep sleep for 14 years.

When Padukas ruled a Kingdom and the Kings acted as the Commissioner of the footware:
One philosophical question that pops up in the Ramayana events when the King or ruler is the
Paduka - “Has Rama the rights to kill Vali”. This is important because when we say the
Aatataayee has to be killed we should remember it is a King’s Duty. No other person has the
right to Kill him as per Atharvana Veda (Refer).

Rama says Bharatha is the ruler Sloka (4-18-7)  It is Bharatha’s duty to punish the
wrongdoers. Sloka (4-18-11) Then suddenly he changes the track and says we are his proxies

129
(वयम्तु आदे शवर्तिनः). (Sloka (4-18-23) Now can the king’s proxies execute orders without his
expressed order? Sloka (4-18-25)There is another problem to this.

Is Bharatha the King?

Rama says Bharatha is the ruler Sloka (4-18-7) It is Bharatha’s duty to punish the
wrongdoers. Sloka (4-18-11) Then suddenly he changes the track and says we are his proxies
(वयम्तु आदे शवर्तिनः). (Sloka (4-18-23) Now can the king’s proxies execute orders without his
expressed order? Sloka (4-18-25)There is another problem to this.
Is Bharatha the King?
Because in Ayodyakanda, after Bharat milap (meeting with Bharata) Bharata refuses to take
over the kingdom as he does not want to be party to kaikeyi’s conspiracy. After a lot of debate
Bharata offers the kningdom to the Sandals (Paduka) and he himself will live a saintly life like
Rama staying outside the KingdomSloka (2-112-23/24). Thus the king happens to be the Paduka.
This Paduka is representative of Rama himself. So we are to understand that Bharata is
the ‘defacto’  king and Rama is the ‘dejure’  Ruler. Hence whatever Rama may say in humility
that Bharat is the king he is also the accountable when adharma happens in his presence. So he is
duty bound to kill Vali.
Sanskrit English verbatim Translation
4-18-7
He who is virtue-souled, truth-abiding, plain-
speaking, and the knower of the import of probity,
ताम्पालयतिधर्मात्माभरतःसत्यवान्ऋजु ः |
pleasures, and prosperity, and the one who is
धर्मकामअर्थतत्त्वज्ञोनिग्रहअनु गर् हे रतः
concerned in controlling or condoning his subjects,
that Bharata is the ruler of earth. 
4-18-11
“Abiding in our own pre-eminent righteousness, and
ते वयम्मार्गविभ्रष्टम्स्वधर्मेपरमे स्थिताः | even abiding by the order of Bharata we punish him
भरतआज्ञाम्पु रस्कृत्यनिगृ ह्णीमोयथाविधि who deviated from the path of morality, according to
custom. 
4-18-23
भरतःतु महीपालोवयम्तु आदे शवर्तिनः || ४-१८-२३ While Bharata is the lord of land and we are his
त्वम्चधर्मात्अतिक् रान्तःकथम्शक्यम्उपे क्षितु म् | proxies adhering to his orders, and while you too
have overstepped the bounds of rightness, then how

130
 is it possible to be lenient? 
2-18-25
वयम्तु भरतआदे शम्विधिम्कृत्वाहरीश्वर | “As for us, oh, monkey’s lord, we effectuate our
त्वत्विधान्भिन्नमर्यादान्निग्रहीतु म्व्यवस्थिताः || ४-१८- brother’s orders and our duty, and we stand for
२५ curbing your kind of shatterers of ethics.
2-112-23/24
Bowing before the sandals, Bharata spoke the
सपादुकेसम्प्रणम्यरामं वचनम्ब्रवीत् | following words to Rama: “O, Rama the hero and
चतु र्दशहिवर्षाणिजटाचीरधरोह्यहम् || २-११२-२३ the tormentator of enemies! For fourteen years, I
फलमूलाशनोवीरभवे यम्रघु नं दन | shall wear matted locks and robes of bark, live on
तवागमनमाकाङ्क्षन्वसन्वै नगराद्बहिः || २-११२-२४ fruits and roots O Rama, and live outside the city,
offering the ruling of the kingdom to your sandals.” 

After Paduka….Who?

Shoe making in India dates back to the time of the Indus valley civilisation (circa 3000 BC) and
the Indians had learned to tan leather early making sumptuous clothing including footwear. In
the East the use of bronze was known to exist from 4500 BC and the Indian civilisation may well
have influenced the Etruscans to use bronze (or later copper) tacks to attach the sole of the sandal
to the upper. This is what was later used by the Romans as they militarised the sandal. Robust
footwear took them further and hence the Roman Empire spread further than previous
civilisations.

1. Punjabi Jutti ( Punjab)

Commonly worn in North India, the jutti originated in Punjab. Made from leather, these
elaborately embroidered juttis were initially decorated in actual silver and gold thread, and come
in a variety of colours today. Typically, the Punjabi juttis don’t have a right and left foot, because
it takes the shape of your foot when you wear it. Designed with a flat sole, juttis can be worn by
both women and men (the only difference being the extended tip in men’s juttis). In fact, the
popular Punjabi juttis have inspired several other types of footwear, including

131
the Khussa and Mojaris that are sold in other parts of North India

132
 Ad for a Punjabi KHUSSA shoe

 Leather & Velvet

 Material: Leather & Velvet
 Lifestyle: Ethnic and Traditional
 Heel Type: Flat, Heel Height: No Heel
 Care Instructions: 1. Use Shoe bags to prevent any stains or mildew 2. Dust any dry dirt
from the surface using a clean cloth. Do not use Polish or Shiner.
 Expedited Shipping is available @ 6 USD Extra, Complementary Offer : Buy any 2 pairs
from us & get free expedited shipping only for US & CANADA. Arriving time 3-5 Business Days.

2.Mojhari is a man's closed shoe with an extended curled toe, while as jhuttis have flat fronts. In
jhuttis, the rear is normally covered but mojharis have an open look from behind. These shoes
were traditionally made in Jaipur and Jodhpur, cities of Rajasthan. Mojhris are heavily
embroidered with gold and silver threads and decorated with precious gems and pearls. These are
worn at weddings. These were considered as the royal ethnic footwear to go with traditional
Indian dressing like sherwanis and churidar kurta (pyjamas). They come in a variety of colours
and designs, and are normally hand crafted, made from buffalo, cow or camel leather soles,
while the upper part comprises of leather or simply textile. Unlike chappals both parts of the
shoe are joined together by a paste then stitched by white cotton threads. The flat soled shoes
have no left right distinction. The shoes have become very popular with the glitterati and are
worn by Bollywood stars and professional sportsmen.

133
3. Santiniketan Footwear

Santiniketan Leather Goods(  Origin – Santiniketan, West Bengal)are leather products made
in Santiniketan and surrounding villages near Kolkata, West Bengal, India. Production was
started as a cottage industry about 80 years ago in a few villages surrounding Santiniketan and
marketed at the Bhuban Danga Market. The craftsmen of the villages were trained under the
Rural Development Programme of Visva-Bharati University at Santiniketan. The material used is
vegetable tanned leather with art work done by touch dyeing.  Its artistic leather bags are popular
in foreign markets and are exported to many countries including Japan and the U.SThey are
generally made of E. I. Leather (East India Leather) from sheepskin and goatskin.

This product has been registered for protection under the List of Geographical indications of the
Trade Related Intellectual Property Rights (TRIPS) agreement. In July 2007, it was listed as
"Santiniketan Leather Goods" under the GI Act 1999 of the Government of India with
registration confirmed by the Controller General of Patents Designs and Trademarks under Class
18 Handicraft goods vide application number 509 for the dated 12 July 2007.

The most popular kind of the footwear here are the open sandals, available in a wide range of
colours, with the typical embroideries and the embossed batik pattern on them.

Process: The E.I. tanned leathers, which are marketed in rolls with three or four skins, are coated
with a preservative of Epsom salt to inhibit oxidation. The skins, after intensive washing, are
immersed in a wooden vat or pit. They are then taken out and flattened by pulling and then dried.
After drying, designs are drawn on the leather and the leather is cut to the required size to make
the desired products. The vegetable tanned skins used in production have the quality of
permanently retaining the embossed imprint of motifs or batiks. A cotton pad or a glass, which
has a smooth surface, is used to make the grains of the leather shine.

134
4. Kolhapuri Chappal(Origin – Kolhapur, Maharashtra)

Traditional Indian sandals, called chappal remain the most widely used footwear in India.
Chappals come in many designs and are both comfortable and long lasting and hence the reason
for their longevity. Originally the sandals were made in Kohlapur in Maharashtra and are often
known as kolhapuri chappals

Previously called the Kapashi and Bakkalnahi, Kolhapuri chappals were first launched in the

13th century. Generally made of leather, these chappals are designed as open-toed sandals with a
T-strap, and are tanned locally by using vegetable dyes. If records are to be believed, it takes up
to 6 weeks to handcraft these Kolhapuri chappals. With trimmings like braided straps, gold cord,
embroidery, and even pom-poms, this versatile footwear go well with both Indian and western
outfits. However, the process of making these chappals is a dying art form, with a fall in the
number of artisans who still make Kolhapuris. So when in this quaint city, visit a small workshop

135
to learn more about the process of crafting these chappals and pick up one or more of these

beauties.

5. Pula Chappal ( Himachal Pradesh)

Made from the grass of shale (bhang), Pula chappal is the traditional footwear of the local Pahari
people in Himachal Pradesh. The mountain folk came up with this as an innovative alternative to
the more traditional leather shoes, which are usually made of cow-hide

136
. These vibrant light-weight chappals are especially used during religious ceremonies. With the
sole made up of braided shale stitched together with a cloth-lining, and colourful needlework on
the top, the Pula chappals are very popular in states like Gujarat, Rajasthan, and Madhya Pradesh
today.The Chappals are crafted by twisting and braiding grass of shale(bhang) into rope followed
by stitching it together with a cloth-lining, and colourful needlework on the top. Hailing from
the ‘land of gods’ Pula chappal is the ethnic footwear of the local Pahari people in Himachal
Pradesh.

Due to the former leather shoes made of cowhide which were considered inappropriate for
treading on the soil of Himachal Pradesh, the mountain folk ideated an innovative alternative of
these vibrant light-weight Pula chappals. To enhance its pizzazz, the shoe’s upper part is
designed with a blanket stitch along with contrasting hues of wool.
Worn especially during religious ceremonies within temple area these multipurpose chappals are
also useful for walking on snow. The craft is chiefly practiced in Chad (a village near Banjar),but
the market for the pula chappal has spread to Rajasthan, Gujarat and Madhya Pradesh.

137
6. Osho Chappals (Origin – Pune, Maharashtra)

If you think eco-friendly fashion accessories are always expensive, think again. Pune gets the
credit for creating eco-friendly Osho chappals, named after the spiritual guru, Osho Rajneesh.
Both affordable and a style statement, this extremely comfortable footwear works well with
western attires and Indian dresses. Made of bamboo, jute straw and natural grass,
these chappals are also known as Chattai chappals. Deriving it’s name from the spiritual
guruShree Osho Rajneesh, the eco-friendly contemporary flip-flops (Osho Chappals) are created
from bamboo, jute straw and natural grass. Faux velvet, rubber, or simple cotton cloth are used to
make the two chappal strings while the sturdy bottom surface is made of hard rubber.
Latest Trends in Osho Chappals
Synonymous with tranquility and vogue, these simple and basic design chappals are the true
representation of contemporary Indian fashion. From teenagers to old age grandfathers, Osho
chappals are cherished by all age groups because of their affordability, variation of coloursand
diverseness of styles and patterns (square as well as round front). With cool embellishments like
beads, stones, embroidery, cowries, seashells and even glitter, these are as high on comfort
asthey are on eye candy. The chattai (mat surface) of the chappals gives them an earthy
traditional look while providing a cooling effect to the feet. Fit for most occasions, the chic-style
Osho chappals can be teamed with all kinds of western as well as Indian attires.\\

138
Stylish Mojhris from Rajasthan

The History of Platform Heels:

Long before the platform heel exploded into our lives in the 1970’s it had actually been around
in many disguises centuries before. The history of platform shoes includes the Okobo, the
Kabkab, the Paduka and the Chopine. We’re talking some seriously high platforms here!

It’s difficult to find out exactly when and where the platform actually came into existence, but
there’s evidence in the artwork of some ancient cultures, from Egypt to Japan to Greece to India,
that platform shoes were being worn. In many of these cultures platforms were worn by both
men and women of the higher classes, perhaps for ceremonial purposes, indicating their status.
They could also have been worn to give the illusion they were much taller than the ‘common’
people, appearing ‘god-like.’ But then there could be a more practical reason, to keep their feet
and clothing clean.

139
Ancient man loved the platform!

Platform heels were popular amongst actors in ancient Greece and

China. It seemed the higher the platform the more prestige you had as an actor. In Greece and
Rome the actors wore buskins. These were open-toed sandals and had wood or cork soles. They
were tied up to the calf or knee, with either leather or cloth laces.Quite possible that some such
variation was present in Bharat too.
The Okobo
The Okobo, a very distinctive style, originated in 18th century Japan but you can clearly see
where the inspiration for the modern day flip-flop came from. These sandals were worn by
maiko (geisha) during their apprenticeship. The colors of the the cloth strap represented their
maiko status. Okobo refers to the sound made when walking due to it being made out of one
piece of wood, with the inside hollowed out. This is another example of a shoe that was created
to keep feet and clothing clean.
The Kabkab
Does anyone else think these look mpossible to walk in?! Seriously, there must have been a lot
of broken ankles during this era. Originally from Lebanon, dating between the 14th and 17th
centuries, these were worn by women of the higher classes (they were primarily worn by women
but men would also wear them in bathhouses). Again, this was to keep their feet clean and
protect them from the dirt on the streets. These ‘stilts’ were made from wood and were often
decorated with silver and pearl. The straps were made out of either velvet, leather or silk. Like
the Okobo, they were given their name due to the noise they made when walking on marble
flooring.

140
The Chopine

This was a favorite shoe for the women of

nobility across Europe, from the 15th to 17th centuries. They look a tad easier to walk in, due to
having more foot support compared to the Kabkab, but still, walking couldn’t have been easy. At
their highest they measured almost 20″… and like the others mentioned here were used
(sometimes as an over-shoe) to protect feet and clothing from dirt. Due to their extreme height,
help was needed not to just put them on, but to walk, by servants who would keep the wearers’
balanced and upright. They were made out of cork or wood and covered with either leather or
velvet, and sometimes adorned with jewels.
The 70’s revival!
What springs to mind when you hear the 70’s… The combination of music, fashion and heels at
their most outlandish! With artists such as Elton John, David Bowie and KISS clearly showing
their appreciation for the platform shoe, it was loved again by both men and women. But every

141
era has it’s sell-by date.

Fast forward to the 21st century!

Armadillo shoes –

 Ballet Pointe heels? 

They must have only been created for design purposes, i.e. fashion photo-shoots. But of course
these shoes have been made popular by celebs and popstars, who else would want to wear them,
far less try to walk in them, unless you’re getting paid tons of money to do so?

Interesting facts about the footwear

Below mentioned are some interesting facts about the footwear in Indian during modern era:

142
2. In ancient Indian texts Rigveda, Yajurveda Samhita, Atharvaveda, Brahmans and Panini
Grammer, footwear has been mentioned with Sanskrit term ' Upanah' or 'Upanat'. These
footwear (sandals and shoes) were made from grass, wood and leather.
2. As per great epic Ramayana, Bharata rerurned from Chitrakuta carrying the Rama's
paduka (toe-knob sandal or khadau) and ruled the Ayodhya after placing the paduka on a
throne in Nandigram, as Rama's proxy. Ravana also holds an umbrella and wears shoes while
assuming the form of ascetic for Sita's abduction.
3. According to Mahabharata,once Jamadagni got enraged seeing her wife Renuka exhausted
in scorching sun and started sending arrows against Sun god. Then Sun god presented him a
pair of sandals and an umbrella to protect against the heat from below and above. In this
great epic, shoes (upnate) and sandal or toe knob sandal (paduka or padu) are clearly
differentiated. It also mentions that footwear stealer is born as an “Otikyata” (a lizard)
4. In Shrimad Bhagwat Puran, Lord Vamana is mentioned wearing umbrella and shoes. Lord
Krishna never wore shoes while herding the cows.
5. As per Brahma Vaivarta Purana, one should not wear the shoes already worn by others.
6. According to Garud purana, sandals and umbrella should be gifted on `Sraddha' day.
Shoes stealer is born from sheeps' wombs.
7. As per Vasstue shastra, footwear should be placed in south-west direction of hall and
never in bedroom.
8. While leaving the princely life in 5th century BC, Lord Buddha is mentioned in scriptures
having taken off his sandals.
9. I n Mahavagga, a section of Buddhist scripture Vinaya Pitaka (5th century BCE ), sandals
made of fancy materials were forbidden for monks and nuns. It mentions 4 types of shoes,
which include Putabaddha (covering ankle), Tittirapttika (shape like partridge wings and
adorned with horns of ram or goat), Padigunthima (full boot) and Tulapunnika (padded with
cotton wool). Sandals with separate point like scorpion's sting and adorned with peacock
feather were largely demanded but were forbidden for Buddhist monks.
10. Banabhatta, the court-poet of emperor Harsh Vardhan has mentioned in his book
Harshacharita (7th century) footwear.
11. Mahavyutpatti (800-815 CE), which contains the Sanskrit and Tibetan terms for
understanding Buddhist texts has mentioned the footwear as Padavestanika, Pula, Manda-

143
 pulah etc.
12 I n Jain scripture Brihat Kalpa Sutra Bhasya the guidelines for the attires and footwear of
monks and nuns are given.
13. Abhidhan Cintamani of Hemchandracharya (11th century) footwear are classified in
several categories including Upanat (shoes), Paduka (sandals), Padarakasana etc.
14 .Paduka Sahasram” of Swami Vedantha Desika (1269 AD-1370 AD) contains the 1000
verses on the padukas of Lord Vishnu, whose statue is enshrined in Sri Ranganathaswamy
Temple (Tamil Nadu).

Physical evidences of the footwear in India

Following sculptures, coins and paintings also throw a light upon the centuries old history of
footwear in India:

During the archeological excavation in Chandraketugarh (West Bengal), footwear of 200 BC

with raised heel and floral motifs are found. Further, a terracotta sculpture (1st century) also
wears a V shape sandal or chappal.
* Buddhist statues (3rd & 4th century) of Gandhara are portrayed wearing strapped sandals
* Numismatics have found the coins of Kushan period (130BC to 185AD) and Gupta period
(320 to 550 AD), which feature kings wearing full boots.
* Ajanta cave paintings (4th to 5th century) also portray the people wearing stockings along with
full boots.
* n some early Sanchi sculptures (3rd to12th century BCE) foreigners are depicted wearing
boots.
* Amongst all Hindu deities, only Sun god is portrayed wearing the footwear. Modhera Sun
temple ( 11th century CE) of Gujarat shows him wearing a belt and long shoes. The granite Sun
statue of Dakshinaarka Sun Temple (13th century) of Gaya depicts him wearing a jacket, waist
girdle and high boots.
* Bronze statue Chola period (11th to 2th century AD) also depicts the Bharat holding Ram's
paduka over his head. Pahari Miniature painting of (17th century) shows Bharat worshiping
Ram's paduka.

144
*Paduka of Lord Rama are worshiped even now also in Ram Paduka temples situated in
Rameshwaram (Tamilnadu), Ramtek (Maharashtra) and other places.
* In Chencherimali Temple of South India, devotees carry leather sandals in honor of Lord
Subrahmanya (Kartikeya, Murugan), as he is believed to wear leather shoes. His wife Valli is
worshiped in form of sandal pairs in Marudhamalai, Chennilais, Palani and Sivanmalai (Tamil
Naidu).
* In Vithoba festival, pilgrims travel to Pandharpur temple (Maharashtra) carrying the Padukas
of saints Tukaram and Dnyaneshwar in a silver palanquin.
* In dian oleograph of Ravi Varma (19th century) shows Rama’s padukas and sword placed on a
throne.
* Mahatma Gandhiji learnt the art of handcrafting shoes in South Africa and made a pair of
shoes in African jail. While leaving the Africa, he presented shoes to president General Smutts,
who was cruel towards Indians. Smutts kept it for 24 years and returned it to Gandhi on latter's
60th birthday. Gandhi also set up a tannery in Sabarmati Ashram (Ahmedabad) and made simple
chappal a symbol of India's self-sufficiency during 20th century independence movement.

REFERENCES
1.In Search Of Sita: Revisiting Mythology,By Namita Gokhale
2.. Feet and Footwear: A Cultural Encyclopedia, Margo DeMello, ABC Clio
Bejewelled Feet: Studies in Hindu and Buddhist Art, P. K. Mishra
3.Satyajeet banerjee https://www.selfgrowth.com/articles/history-of-footwear-along-with-
interesting-facts

145
 I
Parsi gentleman. ndian Life and People in the 19th Century Exhibition at Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu
Sangrahalaya, Mumbai, till February 17,2020. See the footware

CHAPTER 3
RECONCILING LEATHER SHOES TO HINDU UPBRINGING
The Dilemma of the Foot(ware) in India

146
 Breehimattamyavamattamathomaashamathotilam
Eshavaambhaagonihitoratnadheyaayadantau
maahinsishtampitarammaataram cha

- Atharvaveda 6.140.2

"O teeth! You eat rice, you eat barley, you eat gram and you eat sesame. These are specifically
meant for you. Do not kill those who are capable of being fathers and mothers."
Another mantra in Atharvaveda says, "It is definitely a great sin to kill innocents. Do not kill
our cows, horses and people."

In ancient times, wearing leather was not considered good in India as the cow was considered as
scared hence sandles made of wood, plant fibers, metals were used. It all began like this:

Transition from hunting wild cattle to preserving their lives-Cows in ancient Indian
history:

Scholars have known for centuries that the ancient Indians ate beef. After the fourth century
B.C., when the practice of vegetarianism spread throughout India among Buddhists, Jains and
Hindus, many Hindus continued to eat beef. In the time of the oldest Hindu sacred text, the Rig
Veda (c. 1500 B.C.), cow meat was consumed. Like most cattle-breeding cultures, the Vedic
Indians generally ate the castrated steers, but they would eat the female of the species during

147
rituals or when welcoming a guest or a person of high status.Ancient ritual texts known as
Brahmanas (c. 900 B.C.) and other texts that taught religious duty (dharma), from the third
century B.C., say that a bull or cow should be killed to be eaten when a guest arrives.

According to these texts, “the cow is food.” Even when one passage in the
“ShatapathaBrahmana” (3.1.2.21) forbids the eating of either cow or bull, a revered ancient
Hindu sage named Yajnavalkya immediately contradicts it, saying that, nevertheless, he eats the
meat of both cow and bull, “as long as it’s tender.”

Cows painted over a door are believed to bring good luck. 

It was the Sanskrit epic, the Mahabharata (composed between 300 B.C. and A.D. 300) that
explained the transition to the non eating of cows in a famous myth:

“Once, when there was a great famine, King Prithu took up his bow and arrow and pursued the
Earth to force her to yield nourishment for his people. The Earth assumed the form of a cow and
begged him to spare her life; she then allowed him to milk her for all that the people needed.”

This myth imagines a transition from hunting wild cattle to preserving their lives, domesticating
them, and breeding them for milk, a transition to agriculture and pastoral life. It visualizes the
cow as the paradigmatic animal that yields food without being killed.
Lord Krishna, one of the most popular deities in India, made it clear in the Bhagavad Gita:

148
cāturvarṇyaṃmayāsṛṣṭaṃguṇakarmavibhāgaśaḥ.

"The Aryans followed a mixed pastoral and agricultural economy, in which cattle played a
predominant part. The farmer prayed for increase of cattle; the warrior expected cattle as booty;
the priest was rewarded for his services with cattle. Cattle were in fact a sort of currency, and
values were reckoned in heads of cattle," 1

This four-fold order was created according to the divisions of quality and work, and not birth.
Yasmintsarvaanibhutaanyaatmaivaabhuudvijaanatah
Tatrakomohahkahshokahekatvamanupasyatah
- Yajurveda 40.7

"Those who see all beings as souls do not feel infatuation or anguish at their sight, for they
experience oneness with them."
Vedas never promote animal slaughter. Bhagavad Gita,Mahabharata and Ramayana have
relevance till they support the concepts in the Vedas. Cows are considered "sacred" in Indian
culture. This "sacred" animal has been an integral part of daily life in pre- and post-independent
India. Aryans followed a mixed pastoral and agricultural economy, in which cattle played a
predominant part. The farmer prayed for increase of cattle; the warrior expected cattle as booty;
the priest was rewarded for his services with cattle. Cattle were in fact a sort of currency, and
values were reckoned in heads of cattle," 1

In India, issues around the cow, or "Gau" in Sanskrit, has been sensitive since the times of
foreign invasion. People in India's rural areas are very sensitive about their animals even as they
look upon the cow as "gaumata" (mother). There are about 300 million cows in India which
produce useful commodities like milk and dung cakes and promise capacity addition by giving
birth to more calves. As an academic and historian, Gandhi put forward some ambiguous points
sans valid proof to claim that eating cows was popular in the Vedic period. He is right on saying
that there's no Hindu religion. The term religion itself was alien to ancient Indians and the label
"Hindu" was equated with the common culture of the people living here. The society in ancient
India was based on four varnas, (the term "varna" means character, quality or nature. As Basham

149
explained in his book, "varna" doesn't mean, and has never meant, caste), and that social
structure was
Researchers from Yale University have examined the returns from owning cows and buffaloes in
rural India. With labor valued at market wages, households earn large, negative median annual
returns from holding cows and buffaloes, at −293% and −65%, respectively. Making the stark
assumption of labor valued at zero, median returns are then −7% for cows and +17% for
buffaloes (with 51% and 45% of households earning negative returns for cows and buffaloes,
respectively). Why do households continue to invest in livestock if economic returns are
negative, or are these estimates wrong? It is because social norms may still lead to persistent
livestock investments. As an investment instrument, cow is a bad option, though it can boost the
savings of people in rural India. That's the economics of cows.2

The modern practice of Hindu animal sacrifice is mostly associated with Shaktism, They have
lingered in certain local contexts.and in currents of folk Hinduism strongly rooted in local
popular or tribal traditions. Animal sacrifices were part of the ancient Vedic religion in India,
and are mentioned in scriptures such as the Yajurveda. However they were largely eliminated
during the formation of Hinduism, and very many Hindus now strongly disapprove of them.
The majority of modern Hindus avoid animal sacrifice, but there are numerous local exceptions.
In general, where it is practiced, it will be seen as desired by some deities, but not by others.

Animal sacrifice is a part of some Durga puja celebrations during the Navratri in eastern states of
India. The goddess is offered sacrificial animal in this ritual in the belief that it stimulates her
violent vengeance against the buffalo demon. According to Christopher Fuller, the animal
sacrifice practice is rare among Hindus during Navratri, or at other times, outside the Shaktism
tradition found in the eastern Indian states of West Bengal, Odisha[13] and Northeastern India,
Assam and Tripura. Further, even in these states, the festival season is one where significant
animal sacrifices are observed. In some Shakta Hindu communities, the slaying of buffalo demon
and victory of Durga is observed with a symbolic sacrifice instead of animal sacrifice.

The Rajput of Rajasthan worship their weapons and horses on Navratri, and formerly offered a
sacrifice of a goat to a goddess revered as Kuldevi – a practice that continues in some places.

150
The ritual requires slaying of the animal with a single stroke. In the past this ritual was
considered a rite of passage into manhood and readiness as a warrior. The Kuldevi among these
Rajput communities is a warrior-pativrata guardian goddess, with local legends tracing reverence
for her during Rajput-Muslim wars.

The tradition of animal sacrifice is being substituted with vegetarian offerings to the Goddess in
temples and households around Banaras in Northern India. Animal Sacrifice is practiced by
Shaktism tradition where ritual offering is made to a Devi. In Southern Indian states of
Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, and Tamil Nadu. It is most notably performed in front of Local
Deities or Clan Deities. In Karnataka, the Goddess receiving the sacrifice tends to be Renuka.
The animal is either a male buffalo or a goat. The Kathar or Kutadi community of Maharashtra
while observing the Pachvi ceremony, after delivery of a child in the family, offer worship to
their family deity, Saptashrungi and also offer a sacrifice of a goat. Following this they hold the
naming ceremony of the child on the 12th day.

In some Sacred groves of India, particularly in Western Maharashtra, animal sacrifice is

practiced to pacify female deities that are supposed to rule the Groves. Animal sacrifice is also
practiced by caste Hindus to placate deities at temples. In region around Pune, Goats and fowls
are sacrificed to the God Vetala. The goddess temples in Assam, Tripura and West Bengal in
India and Nepal where this takes place involves slaying of goats, chickens, pigeons and male
Water buffalos. Animal sacrifice is practiced in some Eastern states of India and Nepal. For
example, one of the largest animal sacrifice in Nepal occurs over the three-day-long Gadhimai
festival. In 2009 it was speculated that more than 250,000 animals were killed while 5 million
devotees attended the festival. The Gadhimai festival was banned by the Nepal government in
2015.

Ashvamedha ritual
AshvamedhaYagnya is the one of the most royal rituals of Sanatan Dharma or Sarvatrik Dharma
or Vaidik Dharma (Vedic Religion).
Types of Yagnya
1. Putra KameshtiYagnya

151
 2. Soma Yagnya
3. RajsooyaYagnya
4. AshvamedhaYagnya
5. AgnihotraYagnya
6. Havan
7. VaastuYagnya
8. NavachandiYagnya
9. GaayatriYagnya
10. MahaRudriYagnya
11. LaghuRudriYagnya
The AshvamedhaYagnya is described in detail in the following text:-
1. Yajur Veda
2. ShatapathaBrahmana
3. Rig Veda
4. BrahmmaVaivattaPurana
5. Manu Smriti
6. Mahabharata

As per BrahmmaVaivattaPurana the AshvamedhaYagnya is one of the five rites forbidden in the
Kaliyuga. Kaliyuga is the fourth yuga 
1. In no ancient texts (related to SanatanDharama) it is ever written that “after the
ashwamedhaYajna the horse was sacrificed(killed)”.
2. The word Ashwamedha can be divided into two parts, ‘Ashwa’ and ‘Medha’. Not going
very deep and metaphorical, 'Ashwa' means ‘horse' or 'use of horse's and ‘Medha’ means
'brilliancy' or 'to outcast one's brilliancy'. For eg. We say in hindi “Ram
ekmedhavichatrhai.” Means “ Ram is a brilliant student.” Also 'Yajna' has two meanings
i.e. 'good deed' or 'ritual/rite' i.e. 'a way to perform something with.
3. ‘AshwamedhYagna’ (literally means, the horse was sent with posture on its head after
completion of Yagna). It was done in Satyuga, Teta Yuga, and DwaparYug by
Chakravorty King only. (Chakravorty means, the over mighty King in every means like
might, kindness, Daani, and skilled in war).

152
 Rules for AshvamedhaYagnya:-

1. AshvamedhaYagyna could be conducted by only a King.

2. The horse must be stallion, more than age 24 years and less then age 100 years.

3. The horse should be roam arround where ever it chooses.

4. The horse must be roam for minimume period of 1 year and maximume period of 100
years.

5. The wandering horse must be attained by one hundrerd number of young & skilled
warriors including crown prince or son of King with officers of high court charged with
gaurding horses who can fight & overcome from all dangers &unccertaintity.

6. King give donation of money, wealth, gold, silver, copper, cows to 20,000 Brahmmins&
needy people every year.

The Ashvamedha ritual - in which a horse is sacrificed - is mentioned in the Vedic texts such as
the Yajurveda. In the epic Ramayana, Rama did not performed the Ashvamedha sacrifice for
becoming the Chakravartin emperor. In the epic Mahabharata, Yudhishtra performs the
Ashwamedha after winning the Kurukshetra war to become the Chakravartin emperor. The
Mahabharata also contains a description of an Ashvamedha performed by the Chedi king
UparicharaVasu, however, no animals were sacrificed in this story.

However, sacrifices may have been done. In historical times the practice was condemned by
the Buddha and seems to have suffered a decline, but it was revived
by Pushyamitra Shunga (reigned 187–151 BCE). He is said to have defeated, while protecting
his horse, Greek warriors who had reached the Punjab. Samudra Gupta (c. 330–c. 380 CE) issued
coins in commemoration of his successful completion of an ashvamedha, and the rite is
mentioned in connection with other Gupta and Chalukya monarchs. It may have continued as
late as the 11th century, when it is said to have taken place during the Chola dynasty.The rulers
of the Gupta empire, the Chalukya dynasty, and the Chola dynasty all performed the

153
Ashvamedha. Agnisomiya was the simplest of all Soma sacrifices in which animal sacrifice
played an important part; it required that a goat be sacrificed to Agni and Soma preceding the
day of offering of nectar to the gods. In the Savaniya sacrifice, victims were offered throughout
the day of offering to Agni.

These rituals didn't focus on the killing of the animal but as a symbol to the powers it was
sacrificed.In the medieval BhagavataPurana, Krishna tells people not to perform animal
sacrifices. Animal sacrifices are forbidden by the BhagavataPurana in the Kaliyuga, the present
age. The Brahma VaivartaPurana describes animal sacrifices as kali-varjya or prohibited in the
Kaliyuga. The AdiPurana, Brihan-naradiyaPurana and Aditya Purana also forbid animal sacrifice
in Kaliyuga.

Maharishi DayanandSaraswati, one of the great vedic scholar of this millenium had written a
book named Gokarunanidhi in which he had shown the importance of cows not just from the
spiritual point of view but from economical and environmental point of views also. He strongly
emphasized the importance of Cow Protection and had quoted various shlokas from Vedas which
condemns the slaughtering of cows.

Yajurveda:

1. protect the cattles or animals.(Yaju 1-1)

2. kill not man nor any being with life.(Yaju 3 91)

3. kill not the subjects.(Yaju 12.32)

4. oh men, protect or guard the cattle.(Yaju 6.11)

5. protect bipeds, protect quadrupeds.(Yaju 14.8)

6. kill not the cows.(Yaju 13.43)

154
 7. "O sagacious king don't harm this bull, the giver of thousands of comforts, the source of
immense milk and worthy of protection. Harm not in gods creation, the cow, the giver of
milk for mankind and of innocent nature."(Yaju 13.49)

8. Beyond all measure is the cow(Griffith) i.e. there is no limit to the benefit she confers
upon humanity.(Yaju 23.48)

9. kill not the animals, the bipeds(Griffith). (Yaju 13.47) Dayanand says in his commentry
"Let no one kill animals that are useful to all but protect them and make use of them to
make all happy. But the wild animals who injury to the animals and to the cultivation of
the villages and their inhabitants may be killed or driven away by the ruler."

10. "O ruler, you have received education, do not kill two footed beings like men, nor birds
nor four footed beings like cows or other animals. In giving the object of the hymn
Dayanand says 'O ruler, you should punish thise wicked people who kill sheep, camels
and other animals which are all useful to men."(Yaju 13.50)

By the 19th century, the cow-protection movement had arisen. One of the implicit objects of this
movement was the oppression of Muslims.Famously, Gandhi attempted to make vegetarianism,
particularly the taboo against eating beef, a central tenet of Hinduism. Gandhi’s attitude to cows
was tied to his idea of nonviolenceHe used the image of the Earth cow (the one that King Prithu
milked) as a kind of Mother Earth, to symbolize his imagined Indian nation. His insistence on
cow protection was a major factor in his failure to attract large-scale Muslim support.

Yet even Gandhi never called for the banning of cow slaughter in India.
“How can I force anyone not to slaughter cows unless he is himself so disposed? It is not as if
there were only Hindus in the Indian Union. There are Muslims, Parsis, Christians and other
3
religious groups here.”

Today’s India

The nationalist and fundamentalist “Hindutva” (“Hindu-ness”) movement is attempting to use

this notion of the sanctity of the cow to disenfranchise Muslims. And it is not only the beef-
eating Muslims (and Christians) who are the target of Hindutva’s hate brigade. Lower-caste

155
Hindus are also being attacked. Attacks of this type are not new. This has been going on
since Hindutva began in 1923. And indeed, in 2002, in a north Indian town, five lower-caste
Hindus were lynched for skinning a cow.

But, as local analysis shows, the violence has greatly increased under the Modi government.
IndiaSpend, a data journalism initiative, found that “Muslims were the target of 51 percent of
violence centered on bovine issues over nearly eight years (2010 to 2017) and comprised 86
percent of 28 Indians killed in 63 incidents…As many of 97 percent of these attacks were
reported after Prime Minister NarendraModi’s government came to power in May 2014.”

In 2015, in the western Indian state of Gujarat, lower-caste Hindus were flogged for skinning a
dead cow, triggering spontaneous street protests and contributing to the resignation of the state’s
chief minister.As these and so many other recent attacks demonstrate, cows – innocent, docile
animals – have become in India a lightning rod for human cruelty, in the name of religion.

Leather shoes: Few years ago I met a Jain shoemaker from Agra.His name was also Jain that is
how I concluded that he was a Jain and in fact he was. He had a very large leather footware unit

156
and exported much of his products. I asked him as to how he reconciled his beliefs of non-
violence with the making of shoes from the skins of animals( Buff and Cow)

“Many in the Jain community do not wear leather, but if we do not, what will we wear?
Fortunately, abstaining from wearing leather doesn’t mean that we will have to walk barefoot or
go around wearing plastic flip-flops. There are number of non-leather shoes and very well
designed and expensive ones too.Now coming to myself and my business, I give here, in making
the shoe, a decent extinction to the life of an animal. She lives on through my shoes. On and on.
In India old shoes are resold and used by the poor. A number of shops can be seen on the
roadside selling old shoes. Cobblers try and refurbish them and resell them to their type of
customer.”

He praised the vegan leather and PVC revolution started by the likes of ADIDAS or other similar
manufacturers. I hope to make that type of shoe soon he said smiling.4

The non- leather shoes of India from ancient times:

“Mojhari”

157
These were traditionally designed in the blue city Jodhpur, and the pink city Jaipur, of Rajasthan.
Mojharis are gorgeously embroidered with gold and silver threads, along with the delicate
decoration of precious gems and pearls. They are usually handcrafted, designed out from textiles
in earlier times. Buffalo, or camel leather soles were common but now rubber has replaced that
while the upper part is designed out of textile. These are mostly adorned at weddings, in the past,
they were considered as the royal ethnic footwear to be worn with traditional Indian dressing like
sherwanis and churidarkurta (pyjamas). It is celebrated as men’s closest shoe with an extended
curled toe, this Indian footwear have an open look from behind. Today, they are available in a
wide range of colours, designs and both parts of the footwear( the upper and sole) are joined
together with a paste and later stitched by white cotton threads. They offer comfort and grace
equally, the flat-soled footwear has no left-right distinction which further makes then stand out
of the box.
“Jutti’s”
Modern shoe designers have transformed the ancient austere looking functional footwear into
style statements with a touch of panache. “Juttis” is one such traditional style of footwear that
have retained its shape, style and heritage through all these years of civilization.
Jutti or Nagra was first patronized by the Mughals and was extremely popular among the kings
and the queens who belonged to the richest era of Indian history. Making of these exquisite shoes
was first originated here.

The style of Jutti was more ornate and richer in texture and design due to fine gems, stones, and
precious pearls. With the passage of time, Nagra shoes gained a lot of popularity in Punjab, and
underwent various forms of experimentation and innovation.

“Jutti” also spelled as jutti is an Urdu word for a shoe with a closed upper attached to a sole.
Punjabi and typically Indian, the jutti, also known as ‘mojari and ‘nagra’, is traditional footwear
worn mostly in North India.Originally made out of pure leather and have exquisite embroidery
and additional embellishments that give it a unique appeal. From day to day wear, weddings,
religious occasions, to parties and festivals, juttis provide an essential ethnic appeal. They are
timeless fashion and make a major part of the fashion industry.

158
Leather Imports: There is scarcity of leather in the country considering the religions practiced
in the country. Considering that Cow slaughter os banned dearth of cowhides will occur. Most
shoes are made from Buffali leather. In financial year 2019, India imported leather worth
approximately 76 billion Indian rupees. There was an increasing trend in leather and its goods
into the south Asian country. That year, this variety made of 0.2 percent of all imports to India.
(Oct 23, 2019)

159
According to IBEF ( Indian Brand Equity Foundation) , the Indian leather industry accounts for
around 12.93 per cent of the world’s leather production of hides/skins. The country ranks second
in terms of footwear and leather garments production in the world and accounts for 9.57 per cent
of the world’s footwear production. About 3,500 companies manufacturing or exporting leather
and leather products are members of the Council.

The Indian leather industry has undergone a drastic change, from being an exporter of mere raw
materials in the early 1960’s and 1970’s to an exporter of finished, value added leather products
today. The Indian leather industry has established itself as a prominent industry both in the
international as well as in the domestic market.

160
Leather export market report of India showed the analysis of various segments such as animal
used, HS code, exporter state, buyer country, buyers and suppliers. 

Hide Market at Kanpur

Western companies operating in India, the cow is a sacred cow. McDonald's avoids selling beef
here. Berlitz International warns its cross-cultural training clients to avoid giving Indians leather
gifts, because most Indians are Hindu and Hindus revere cows.

But nothing is so straightforward in India. On a Sunday morning at the Perunderai market, in the
southern state of Tamil Nadu, traders haggle as bloody hides of freshly slaughtered cows are
slapped onto a cement slab and unfolded like Persian rugs. Twenty of its 29 states, however, now
have laws banning cow slaughter. “Production is down by 52 per cent since the ban. The future
of the tannery industry is dark now- more than 100,000 families are involved in the tannery
industry, and 65 percent of them are directly affected by the ban on slaughterhouses and the
decree on cattle trade. In 2017, India’s Supreme Court suspended a government ban on the
sale of cattle for slaughter, a decision applauded by the multibillion-dollar beef and
leather industries that are mostly run by members of the Muslim minority. The Supreme
Court, in issuing its decision, emphasized the hardship that the ban on the sale of cattle
for slaughter had imposed. And so it goes on…

161
 REFERENCES
1. The Wonder That Was India,  Arthur Llewellyn Basham , 1954 2004 edition,Pan Macmillan
2. Continued Existence of Cows Disproves Central Tenets of Capitalism? Santosh Anagol, Alvin
Etang,DeanKarlan,Economic Development and Cultural Change, 2017
3.July 25,1947 speech at pryer meet
4. Is it time for Jains to give leather the boot? SagarKirit
Shah.http://www.jainvegans.org/2012/01/leather-2/

162
 CHAPTER 4

Ready Made Garment and the Veste de Cuir ( leather Vest)

Introduction:Human are born naked but die fully clothed. For most of human history, clothing
has been handmade. Even today, while textile production is fully automated, garments are sewn
and pieced together by human hands on sewing machines.Before the proliferation of ready-to-
wear clothing, each garment was made individually. Even after the Industrial Revolution, up into
the early part of the 20th century a dress, for example, was made for the person who would wear
it.
Though ready-to-wear apparel has been available for a long time, the ability to walk into a store,
pluck a garment off a rack, or order it online is a relatively new concept.

163
In the not too distant past, a garment would last for a very long time. Today, we purchase an item
of clothing, wear it a few times, and toss it. The creation, production, and distribution of clothing
is the largest manufacturing business in the world. 1

Ready to Wear in the Old Days

Archeological records show that merchants in Ancient Babylonia shipped and distributed some
ready-to-wear garments as early as 1400 BCE (BC). In Ancient Rome, garments were produced
in workshops of up to 100 workers to outfit the military.
Before 1300 CE (AD) people did not wear fitted garments. Middle Eastern people wore loose,
flowing robes. Medieval Europeans wore linen under-tunics and wool top tunics made of such
durable fabric that a garment lasted a lifetime. Women spun wool into thread and weavers,
generally men, wove fabric in home workshops.
After 1350, clothing became more form fitting. A small ready-to-wear industry soon began to
produce shirt accessories such as detachable sleeves and collars, as well as gloves, and hats. By
the second half of the 16th century, gloves, stockings, collars, and hats were imported and
exported in bulk quantities.

Before the Industrial Revolution, textile and garment production existed on a small scale in home
workshops called cottage industries. Merchants dropped off raw materials to the workers' homes
where production relied on self-pacing and included low and highly skilled work. Ready to wear
garments were introduced for the military. During the American Civil War measurements were
taken of men in order to gauge averages to create ready to wear garments. The development of
the sewing machine made mass production common. By the 1870s commercially produced paper
garment pattern became common. Off the rack clothing is cheaper to produce than custom, so the
new method became a popular way for men without great means to dress.

164
 1657 painting of woman at spinning wheel by Gerritz

In 1738 Lewis Paul and John Wyatt of England invented the Roller Spinning machine which
spun cotton into thread. By 1764 a multi-spool spinning wheel was able to spin thread more
quickly than ever before. The Water Frame was invented by Richard Arkwright in 1770
produced stronger threads and was powered by water. It was the Water Frame that made it
possible to move textile production from the cottage to a factory like setting.
The Power Loom, patented in 1784 by Edmund Cartwright wove threads into cloth on a
machine. As later improvements increased speed and efficiency, women began to replace the
men who were formerly weavers. By 1880 there were 250,000 cotton power looms in Britain.
The first merchant ship to fly the fledgling United States flag exported ginseng and imported
hats, men's breeches, and gloves. By the late 1700s Bristol England was home to over 200
businesses that exported hates, gloves, drawers, pants, stockings, shirts, jackets, and footwear.

165
Early in the 19th century some large scale apparel production still relied on hand sewing for
piece work. In 1835, a New York company advertised for 800 tailors, and 1200 plain sewers.
The invention of steam powered machines for producing textiles and clothing drew the ire of
frightened craftspeople. In England and France angry tailors and weavers who saw the
machinery as a threat to their livelihood stormed factories and wrecked the machinery. Textile
and garment work became fast paced and dependent on the large amounts of capital that it took
to purchase machinery and physical plants. Workers lost their individuality, independence, and
society's reliance on their skills.They were no longer crafts people but employees, just cogs in
the wheel.

Victorian Garment Industry

By the 1880's large mills and factories produced fabric and garments including over coats,
petticoats, shirts, trousers, gloves, hats, and footwear. The mills and factories of the Victorian era
offered grueling work at poverty wages. The air filled with floating fibers that caused respiratory
problems for the workers. Dim lighting ruined eyesight, and toxic dyes poisoned workers.
Women and children worked 12 hour days. During busy seasons, work hours could extend to 20
hours a day. Children who fell asleep at their work were beaten or fined. Low wages kept
workers poorly nourished living on tea, bread, butter, and cheese with only occasional scraps of
meat.

166
In England, lawmakers enacted early labor standards in 1833. The new child labor laws
mandated an 8 hour work day for 9 year olds. Younger children were no longer allowed to work
in mills or factories. The invention of the sewing machine by Elias Howe in 1846 allowed
workers to piece garments together quickly. Though many attempts were made and many types
of sewing machines were produced, Elias Howe was credited for basic design. Along with
marketing by business savvy Isaac Singer, Howe's invention changed the garment trade forever.
(Later, Singer was to introduce the home sewing machine, advertised to help women save money
on domestic help).

Despite the proliferation of ready-to-wear garment factories, may items of clothing were still
handmade, tailored for the wearer. Wealthy and upper middle class women took samples of
fashion illustrations to a seamstress. After the selection of the fabric, the seamstress would adopt
the garment design to the customer's measurements.
High end fashions were often copied by the middle class. My own great aunt would visit a
couture clothing shop to try on garments. If she liked a dress, she turned it inside out, carefully
studied the pattern then copied it at home.
In the late 19th century, the department store introduced the idea of consolidating large amounts
of mass produced goods for public consumption. Huge, beautifully constructed buildings offered
restaurants and tea rooms as well as consumer goods.

167
By the early 20th century department stores began to feature knock-offs. In 1902 Marshall
Fields' offered copied couture dresses for $25.00 ($621.00 at today's prices) compared to $75.00
($1864.00 at today's prices) for the upscale version.

Department store advertising fed the public's awareness of new styles creating a demand for new
looks. Where pre-industrial designs lasted for years, now new fashions appeared every season.

Garment Industry in the US Early 20th Century

In the United States at the turn of the 20th century mills and factory conditions earned the
attention of progressives. Attempts to unionize erupted in violence and workers' strikes were
seen as being influenced by socialists.Much of the work done in factories and mills as well as the
piecework performed in apartments was done by immigrant women and children.
Dangerous work shops and low pay were brought to the forefront when the Triangle Shirtwaist
Factory Fire erupted on March 25, 1911. Young workers had been locked in and were unable to
escape the inferno. As the fire spread, 62 girls jumped to their deaths, some holding hands,
driven mad by the heat. 146 workers were killed that day, the youngest two were only 14. Fire
hoses and ladders were not tall enough to reach the blaze. The fire nets were not strong enough
to contain the falling bodies. The tragedy drew the attention of the public. 400,000 people lined

168
the streets to pay respects to the lost young workers. The Triangle Shirtwaist Fire drove a new
public awareness and led to workplace safety and labor regulations.

Garment Industry in the US Mid- 20th Century

In the 1930s, women's fashion magazines often presented illustrations for clothing patterns.
Many women still made their own clothes at home.

Near the end of the Great Depression the Roosevelt Administration created a project to
standardize women's measurements. From July 1939 - June 1940 American women were
measured in order to formulate average sizing. This would save on alterations and cut down on
store returns increasing the sales of ready-to-wear apparel.

169
As mass production increased, the style of clothing became more simplified. In order to offer
more affordable apparel, the amount of fabric and embellishments used in clothing construction
decreased. Still, garments were generally well made and could last for years. Wide seam
allowances made it possible to alter or repair a garment at home.
The mid- 20th century brought an overall rise in US wages and a growth of the middle class. As
purchasing power increased people began to buy more articles of clothing. The US, particularly
New York City, was a hub of garment manufacturing and distribution. In 1965, 95% of
American's clothing was made in the the US.
Apparel was produced by small, independent firms. As late as 1990 the United States was home
to over 12,000 independent clothing manufacturers. In 1996, the US textile industry employed
624,000 people. (Today it is only 120,000)
Large corporations increased advertizing budgets to induce shoppers to spend. Large retailers
sought customers by introducing new lines more frequently. The new simpler clothing designs
and new miracle fabrics made apparel easier and cheaper to produce.

Ready-to-Wear in the 21st Century

Today, 40% of all fabric fiber produced is polyester which is basically plastic. Fabrics have
become thinner and less durable than in the past. Even brand names have reduced quality to
compete with large retail chains.
While retail stores once introduced new lines four times a year (for each season) many chains
now bring in new designs every two weeks. H & M and Forever 21 see incoming shipments of
new styles nearly every day. Forever 21 can create a style from design concept to the rack in 6
weeks; H & M in 8 weeks.

Over consumption is today's hottest fashion trend. Where once a garment lasted for years,
women think nothing of wearing a piece of clothing 2 or 3 times. Our closets have grown to hold
vast clothing collections. While mid-20th century homes offered small closets, today's new
homes feature walk-in closets the size of a small room.
US Garment Business Moves Overseas. Skin, Glamour and Leather have gone together
In the not so distant past trade barriers regulated garment imports and bolstered the US apparel
business. In the 1990s deregulation made the import of cheap apparel from developing countries

170
more advantageous for the garment industry. Thousands of US garment and textile workers lost
their jobs when NAFTA encouraged the industry to move operations from Los Angeles to
Mexico. US wages were pushed down to compete.Garment and textile factories popped up in
China and Bangladesh where labor was cheap. Unregulated producers were free to pollute the air
and discharge chemicals into the waterways. Workers had little protection, enduring long hours,
low pay, and abuse.

Leather Jackets

171
“The leather community is largely anarchistic and shares a healthy distrust of power and
arrogance.”
― Geoff Mains, Urban Aboriginals: A Celebration of Leather-sexuality
Leather jackets have been a part of our cultural history for some time. A leather jacket is
a jacket-length coat that is usually worn on top of other apparel or item of clothing, and made
from the tanned hide of various animals. The leather material is typically dyed black, or various
shades of brown, but a wide range of colors is possible. Leather jackets can be designed for
many purposes, and specific styles have been associated with subcultures such
as greasers, rednecks, cowboys, motorcyclists, military aviators, mobsters, police, secret agents,
and music subcultures (punks, goths, metalheads, rivetheads), who have worn the garment for
protective or fashionable reasons, and occasionally to create a potentially intimidating
appearance.

History
Leather, a material made from tanned animal hides, has been used as clothing since the earliest
days of human existence. Prehistoric people wrapped animal skins around their bodies for
warmth and to absorb the magical powers that they believed the skins imparted to them.
Phoenician sailors often brought brightly embroidered leather garments from Babylonia to the
countries they visited. Leather shoes were found in the tombs of Egyptian pharaohs.
Soldiers of the Roman Empire invaded the lands of northern Europe and discovered Teutonic
nomads wearing leather garments as protection against the harsh elements. When these soldiers
returned to Rome with leather pants, the toga-garbed officials of the city tried to ban their use,
but to no avail. Romans were soon using leather for shoes and tunics as well as for breastplates
and shields. In fact, the first recorded tanning guild was formed in the Roman Empire.
In the Middle Ages, the Moors introduced the European world to softer Cordovan leather which
they made from goatskin. By the Renaissance, tanners' guilds had been organized all over
Europe. The Mayan, Incan, and Aztec cultures in Central and South America also used leather,
as did the American Indians, who sewed garments from buckskin, doeskin, and buffalo hide.
During the Stone Age, garments were held together with leather straps that had been threaded
through holes punched in the hide with crude implements made of stone. The hides were stiff
and did not last long before putrefaction made them unwearable. Later, people learned to soften

172
the hides by rubbing them with animal fat and used stones to clean the animal cells from the
skins. It is also possible that in trying to dye the skins with various substances, early people
discovered further preservation methods.

Preservation methods have varied over the centuries. Hides have been smoked, salted, soaked in
urine, rubbed with animal dung, beaten, and dragged over sharp sticks. Prehistoric people and
some modern Eskimos have even resorted to chewing the skins to remove hair, pieces of flesh,
and ultimately, to soften the leather. In some cultures, the skins were sprinkled with talc and
flour to replace the natural oils. Women's leather garments were often doused with perfumes.
Although leather was a valuable trade commodity, the tanning work was dirty and odorous, and
leather workers were usually relegated to the outskirts of town.
Ancient Hebrews (Jews) are credited with inventing the first tanning process using oak bark.
The American Indians used fish oil for the same purpose. American colonists found that plants
such as the hemlock and chest-nut trees could also be used for tanning. In the 19th century,
machines were developed to perform these processes and an American chemist developed a
tanning method using chromium salts that cut the processing time from weeks or months to just a
few hours.

Raw material: Antelope, buckskin, lambskin, sheepskin and cowhide are the hides most

commonly used to make leather jackets. As soon as the skin is removed from the animal at the
meat processing plant, it is refrigerated, salted, or packed in barrels of brine. It is then sent to the
tannery where the skins undergo a series of processes designed to preserve and soften the
hides. Sewing materials such as thread, lining, seam tape, buttons, snaps and zippers are
generally bought from outside vendors and stored in the garment factory.
Everyone knows that leather jackets are cool, because they are historically associated with tough,
masculine characters. Leather jackets tend to put us in mind of a different time, gentlemen’s
clubs with cigar smoking and cognac, or the muscle cars of the fifties and sixties. Women are
also fans of real leather, both on men or for themselves. Real leather is a perennial favorite and
reminds us of a more classic time.
There is a timeless beauty to leather jackets, especially real leather jackets. They conjure up
images of rugged individualism and vintage history. Real leather is soft and comfortable. It is

173
also more flattering and will conform to the person wearing it. A real leather jacket will be one
of your favorite items of clothing and can even be an heirloom.
Synthetic leather, or faux leather, can be spotted in a variety of ways. Real leather will have
texture and pores, whereas faux leather is glossier with no detail in the material. Faux leather
tends to wrinkle easily when folded and does not withstand moisture very well. Real leather is
used because in the past, its wearers needed versatility and adaptability for working in a variety
of environments.
The problem with faux leather is that it is often made of cheap and shoddy material. Over time,
cracks will appear and make the item useless as well as ugly. These products will not last a
lifetime in the same way real leather will. After some wear, faux leather will show as the inferior
purchase because it does not have the lasting power of the real thing.
As an investment, a real leather jacket is preferable both for its durability and its strength.
Although real leather costs more, the affordability of faux leather is an example of false economy
because these items do not last as long as a real leather jacket.
Real leather is also the better choice for the ecologically conscious. Faux leather is made from
synthetic materials and can end up in a landfill for a very long time. Real leather, on the other
hand, is all-natural and even though some chemicals are used in the creation of these products,
real leather is the better choice for the environment. However, for those who object to animal
products, synthetic leather is the better choice. There are new types of animal-free leather on the
horizon, one notable one is made from mushrooms called, well, Mushroom Leather.
Real leather jackets are used by bikers, people in the military, and racecar drivers because of
their protective nature. They are very durable and can help protect the wearer from injury, which
is not possible with faux leather. Road injury is less likely when wearing a real leather jacket.
The smell of real leather is also preferable to the smell of synthetic leather. One of the easiest
ways to differentiate real from faux leather is the smell, as real leather has a specific scent and
the synthetic material has a chemical smell. The scent of leather is very pleasant and will inspire
good memories in the wearer.
The back of real leather is rough, and synthetic leather is smooth. If you feel the back of the
leather it is easy to tell the difference between the two. The back of real leather tends to feel like
felt or suede.

174
After wearing a real leather jacket for some time, it has an attractive worn-in look. The softness
and adaptability of real leather is one of its best qualities. Faux leather tends to deteriorate over
time and look worse after it has been worn too long, developing imperfections in the material
and ultimately becoming unwearable.
For the more daring among you, lighting the material on fire can show the difference between
real and faux leather. Faux leather will catch fire, curl, and burn, but real leather is not as
flammable. This is not usually a recommended measure, but it is one way to tell the difference.
Every item made of real leather is unique, because they are made from animal hide and no two
are the same. Synthetic leather products are more like assembly-line items and there is no
individuality to them.
The history and individuality of your leather jacket is what makes it yours, and every story or
adventure you have had while wearing it forms an aspect of the jacket itself.
This kind of long-term use is not possible with faux leather. When you buy a real leather jacket,
you are making a lifetime purchase.Genuine leather is smooth, supple, and warm to the touch.
Faux leather tends to be cold, stiff, and glossy. The feel of genuine leather is a tactile experience
that will bring back memories of times gone by.
Sewing materials such as thread, lining, seam tape, buttons , snaps, and zippers are generally
purchased from outside vendors and stored in the garment factory.

175
The Preparation Process
Trimming and cleaning
 1 The skins are trimmed and sorted according to size, weight, and thickness. It is
necessary to remove any remaining proteins that could stimulate the growth of bacteria.
To this end, the skins are soaked in revolving drums filled with water, bactericides, and
detergents. Hair is removed with the application of chemical sprays or lime solutions. A
scudding machine fitted with dull blades scrapes off any excess hair.
Another round of washing (de-liming) removes these chemicals before the hides are soaked in an
acid solution and then bated, an enzyme treatment to further remove the skins' collagens. Finally,
the hides are pickled with salt and sulfuric acid.
Tanning
 2 The hides undergo one of three types of tanning. Vegetable tanning requires the most
time with the skins soaked in progressively stronger tannic acid solutions for several
weeks. However, some soft leathers, such as lambskin, may be soaked for as little as 12
hours.
Mineral tanning is significantly faster but can change the color of the leather. For this method,
the skins are placed in alum salt-filled drums fitted with paddles that provide a constant agitating

176
177
The third method, oil tanning, is the one that resembles the ancient methods most closely. Here,
fish oil is sprayed onto the skins.
Washing and drying
 3 After the skins have been tanned, they are washed once again and wrung out
thoroughly. Then the skins are passed under a band knife, which cuts the skins to a
uniform thickness, and placed on conveyer belts which carry them to drying tunnels.
Usually, the skins are stretched on frames to prevent shrinkage during the drying stage.
To combat the stiffness that drying produces, the hides are sprayed with water and soap
and allowed to hang for a period of time.
After the skins have been conditioned, they are placed in machines designed to rhythmically
manipulate the leather so that the fibers are further loosened and made more flexible. In the final
drying period, the hides are hung in vacuum-drying cabinets.
When the skins are thoroughly dried, they are buffed with revolving steel cylinders covered with
abrasive paper. Suede finishes are produced by passing the hides under high-speed emery
wheels. At this point, glazes, dyes, and lacquers are applied. The skins are now ready to be sent
to the garment factory.
The Manufacturing Process
The development of high-speed sewing machinery changed the face of traditional sewing
factories where one person may have worked on a single garment from start to finish. Because
leather garments are considered luxury items, hand-construction by highly skilled artisans is still
sought by many consumers. However, the following steps are those used in factory mass
production.
Jacket design
 1 Garment manufacturers typically employ designers to create patterns from which the
clothing is made. Computerized machines grade the designs according to government
anthropometric tables which assign sizes based on body height and weight. The computer
then produces patterns in a range of sizes from the original design.
Cutting
 2 The tanned leather is placed on moving tables called spreaders. Although modern
technology allows several layers of fabric to be cut simultaneously, leather is usually cut
one layer at a time. The pattern is placed on top of the leather. This is accomplished in

178
 one of two ways; tissue-paper patterns may be pinned onto the leather, or the pattern may
be marked with tailor's chalk. The spreading table works on the conveyer system, moving
the fabric to the cutting machine, which is fitted with either rotary blades or band-knives.
The table is either guided by a human operator or run automatically. The most recent
technological advance is the computerized laser beam system in which the fabric seams
are vaporized rather than cut.
Lining material for the jacket is cut in the same manner. Because it is of a much thinner weight,
lining can be placed on the spreaders in multiple layers.
Jacket assembly
 3 The jacket is assembled in roughly this order: the sides are stitched to the back portion,
sleeve underseams are stitched together, and the sleeves are attached to the armholes. The
attachment of finishing pieces such as collars, cuffs, buttonholes, buttons, zippers, and
pockets varies according to the design of the jacket. Patch pockets are sewn onto the side
pieces before they are stitched to the back portion, and side pockets are sewn in at the
same time that the sides are attached to the back. Generally, lining material is attached to
each piece before it is sewn onto the jacket.
In mass production, the pieces are moved along a highly sophisticated production line using
integrated automatic sewing machines that are capable of sewing as many as 8,000 stitches per
minute. In a sequential system, one sewing machine stitches a particular section of the jacket and
then moves the garment to another sewing machine which performs the next step. For example,
after one machine stitches a cuff to the sleeve, the sleeve moves to another machine where it is
attached to the jacket armhole.
A tandem sewing system calls for two or more machines to work on the same garment
simultaneously. In this instance, one machine attaches buttons to the front of the jacket while
another machine applies the collar.
Each step, from setting thread and needle positions to aligning the fabric to extracting the sewed
materials, is pre-programmed. Each sewing machine is equipped with under-bed trimming
devices that automatically knot and cut threads after each seam is sewn. Excess threads are
carried away to waste receptacles by streams of compressed air.

179
Operators regulate the work at each station with a modified presser-foot or from a control panel.
A stop-motion device allows the operator to halt production to make adjustments such as
replacing broken threads or needles.
Molding and pressing
 4 A number of pressing processes incorporating heat application, steaming, and blocking
are employed to complete the transformation of the animal skins into a jacket. Buck
presses equipped with controls and gauges to regulate the amount of steam and pressure
are used to give the jacket its distinctive shape, whether a bomber- or blazer-styled jacket.
Curved blocks are placed around the collars and cuffs and then heat is applied. The
blocks are removed, leaving the collars and cuffs curved.
Final inspection
 5 Each jacket is inspected by hand before it leaves the factory floor. The completed
jackets are then sheathed in plastic bags, packed into cartons, and shipped to the retailer.
Quality Control
The thoroughness of the tanning process is designed to produce skins that are supple and free of
bacteria-causing proteins. Garment manufacturers inspect each shipment of skins for marks,
tears, stains, and imperfections.
Today's automated sewing systems are self-correcting. Sophisticated lubricating systems
composed of pumps, reservoirs, fluidic controls, and electronic controls insure that the garments
are manufactured at a consistent level of quality.
Although the leather goods industry suffered slightly during the most recent recession, and
merchandisers were compelled to implement discount strategies, the Leather Apparel
Association predicts a strong comeback during the last decade of the 20th century as many
companies expand their clothing lines. New technologies such as the laser cutter are also
increasing the rate of production.
As with the fur industry, the leather industry has been the target of some animal rights groups
who denounce the killing of animals for human benefit, particularly to create "luxury" items. In
an effort to address these concerns, some clothing manufacturers have increased production of
artificial leather, a material made from synthetic fibers, which does not use any animals and is
less expensive. However, jackets and coats made from real leather remain fashionably popular.1
Potential

180
Digital Technologies are changing the perspectives of business and culture with the advent of
new computing tools for the home and office or new communication net works in the world.
Technology is the single most important force behind the creation of enterprise. The Leather
Garment sector is in close contact with the latest trends in the fashion. Therefore, the new winds
in the fashion world always have a direct effect on the development of the sector and gives a
wider scope for marketability.
Leather Garment production in India is almost exclusively for export. Some demand for Jackets
exists but this is limited to some North Indian towns, which experience severe winter.
India's export for Leather Garments has been 5.28 million, 6.50 million and 6.9 million pieces
during the year 1997, 1998 and 1999 respectively. The estimated production capacity for Leather
Garments in India has been estimated at 18 million pieces a year. In 1998, the total value of
India's Garments export was the third highest next only to that of China and Turkey. In 1999,
India has reached the second place next to China, Korea, which used to command the second
position in export of garments has fallen way behind.
Now that the demand seems to be picking up from the beginning of 2000, it would open up
scope for new garment units which will help the country to increase the export of garments. As a
matter of fact, it is heartening to note that the total export of Leather Garments during the year
2000-01 was higher than the export during the same period in 1999-2000 by as much as 33% in
terms of US $.
In the circumstances, it would, therefore, be prudent to concentrate India's efforts in the currently
strong importing countries viz. USA, U.K., Germany. Italy, France, Netherlands etc.
Quality Control and Standards
No particular specification of this product is available. The specifications in the export market
mainly relate to the quality of leather i.e. colour fastness, softness and resistance to moisture and
cold. Other specifications like pattern, design would be as per the requirements of the buyer.
However, the following specification for accessories has been given below which are as per BIS.
Standards Related To Leather Garments Industry and Related Items:

181
 Elastic Tapes IS 9686
Metal Buckles IS 96986:1980
Threads IS 1376/1803
Leather Garment Sizing System IS 10397
Care of Leather Garments NIL
Metalic Slide Fastner IS 3148:1983
Garment Quality Guide IS 12675
Leather For Garments IS 12718
Fur Leather IS 3840/2961
Fusible Lining IS 12806
Zip Fasteners IS 8894/3184/4829
Pollution Control
The Leather Garment Manufacturing unit does not contain any environmental hazards, the
performance of Production System is through waste minimisation/utilities and it is revealed that

182
the waste emanating from 70% of the unit is utilised by the small leather goods (Tiny Sector)
industries i.e. Chappal Manufacturing, Small Coin Purses manufacturing and Key Chain Purse
Manufacturing units.
Energy Conservation
Energy is spent in the factory in the form of electricity and fuel. The workers should be properly
trained to operate the machines as and when required. They should be trained cautioned to yield
maximum units during the machine operation which would not allow the machine to run by
motive power unnecessarily. The electrical lines should be properly made and checked at regular
intervals.

Most modern leather jackets are produced in Pakistan, India, Canada, Mexico and the United
States, using hides left over from the meat industry. Fabrics simulating leather such
as polyurethane or PVC are used as alternatives to authentic animal hide leather depending on
the needs of the wearer such as those pursuing vegan lifestyles or for economic reasons as
synthetic fibers tend to be less costly than authentic leather.

In 1928, the leather jacket was first introduced as a fashionable garment by the super talented
Irvin Schott. His design was similar to the modern motorcycle leather jacket and was named
after his favorite cigar company – The Perfecto. True to its name, the jacket design was perfect –
and is highly coveted by fashionistas even today. This OG jacket very much inspires the modern
street style leather jacket. Instead of using buttons for the front closure as was the norm for
leather jackets of the time, Schott opted for a daring zipper closure, accentuating the entire look
of the garment. This first fashionable leather jacket sold for a measly $5.50, probably the
cheapest such a highly acclaimed design has ever been priced at in the history of leather jackets.
Soon after the first leather jacket was designed and sold as fashionable wear , the fad began to
gain popularity. Many fashion enthusiasts began adopting the style into their daily wear, and the
leather jacket became a staple for every fashionista’s closet. The trend truly skyrocketed in the
1950s with the Hollywood embracing it in some of the most popular and highly acclaimed
movies of the day.

183
Popular amid men and women alike, the versatile outfit can be categorized into three mainstream
types – the bomber jackets, the biker jackets, and the racer jackets. However, many other types
also exist, and the designs in which this outerwear is available in the modern fashion industry are
virtually countless.

High fashion since a century and not going away anytime soon! Perfect for any and every
occasion, this iconic piece of outerwear has been in fashion for more than a century. Since its
conception, the leather jacket quickly climbed up the ranks and made its way into all the
fashionistas’ hearts. Today, we can safely assume that the hottest trend of the century has been
adopted at least once by every fashion enthusiast who can afford it. In this article, we will shine
some light on the history of leather jackets to better understand how this apparel came to be a
permanent staple in every man and woman’s modern-day wardrobe.
From fighter pilots to street racers to bikers, the tough and cool imagery related to real leather is
important to understand as the inspiration for our love affair with leather. Time and again, we see
examples of real leather jackets in film and television as the outfit of choice for an iconic
character.

In the early 1900s aviators and members of the military wore brown leather flight jackets. One of
the first modern leather jackets the type A1 was created by Chapal in 1925 [1]. During the Second
World War the garments became known as "bomber jackets" and were heavily insulated and
prized for their warmth. The jacket was often part of an overall uniform-ensemble meant to
protect bomber pilots from exposure to the extreme climate conditions found at high altitude, and
often incorporated sheepskin, using the intact fleece on the inside for warmth.
Russian Bolsheviks commonly wore leather jackets, which became a quasi-uniform
for commissars during the Russian Civil War, and later for the members of the Cheka. Yakov
Sverdlov allegedly initiated this practice

The Statement Biker

There is a substantial difference between leather jackets made for fashion purposes, and those
worn for protection, such as motorcycle personal protective equipment. Leather jackets designed

184
for protective use are safety equipment and are heavier, thicker, and sometimes even equipped
with armor, thus they are a practical item of clothing regardless of the symbolism invested in
them by popular culture. A leather jacket primarily designed for fashion purposes would not be
much protection in a motorcycle accident because of the jacket's flimsy construction. Motorcycle
jackets often have more subtantial zips, weatherproof pockets and closures, higher collars, and
are styled to b longer at the back than the front to protect the kidneys of the riders from the cold
while the rider is bent forward over the motorcycle.
If you are looking for a high-quality product that will stand the test of time, a real leather
jacket is a good choice. Each individual item can be custom-fit to individual needs. Real leather
jackets always flatter the wearer and often become a favorite item of clothing, both for the
wearer and also friends and family.
They are unique enough to stand out and become a part of someone’s overall identity, because
people always take notice of leather jackets and the individuals who wear them.
Despite the lower price point of faux leather and its overall availability, for a long-term item of
clothing, real leather is a better choice. A real leather jacket will be with you for decades, and
can even be handed down to the next generation. Check out our selection of leather jackets
at Independence Brothers.
There are still WW2 bomber jackets in circulation that look as beautiful as they did when they
were first purchased. The durability and versatility of a real leather jacket never goes out of
fashion, and will provide an enduring classic for your wardrobe that will be useful for years to
come. 2

185
 Hollywood star Marlon Brando made jackets famous

REFERENCES

1. For in depth information on this topic, read "Sizing in Clothing Developing

effective Sizing Systems for Read to Wear Clothing," edited by S.P. Ashdown
from Woodhead Publishing. Chapters are written by a number of authors.
2. http://www.madehow.com/Volume-2/Leather-Jacket.html#ixzz6P8bIjy5zMarket

186
 CHAPTER 5
Life of Indian Leather Industry in a Nutshell

About Indian Footwear Industry The footwear sector is a very significant segment of the
leather industry in India; rather it is the engine of growth for the entire Indian leather
industry. India is the second largest global producer of footwear after China, accounting for
13% of global footwear production of 16 billion pairs. India produces 2065 million pairs of
different categories of footwear (leather footwear - 909 million pairs, leather shoe uppers -
100 million pairs and non-leather footwear - 1056 million pairs).India exports about 115
million pairs. Thus, nearly 95% of its production goes to meet its own domestic demand.
The major production centers in India are Chennai, Ranipet, Ambur in Tamil Nadu,
Mumbai in Maharastra, Kanpur in U.P., Jalandhar in Punjab, Agra, Delhi, Karnal,
Ludhiana, Sonepat, Faridabad, Pune, Kolkata, Calicut and Ernakulam. About 1.10 million
are engaged in the footwear manufacturing industry. Footwear exported from India are
Dress Shoes, Casuals, Moccasins, Sport Shoes, Horrachies, Sandals, Ballerinas, Boots,
Sandals and Chappals made of rubber, plastic, P.V.C. and other materials. The Footwear

187
sector is now de-licensed and de-reserved, paving the way for expansion of capacities on
modern lines with state-of-the-art machinery. To further assist this process, the
Government has permitted 100% Foreign Direct Investment through the automatic route for
the footwear sector. Conducive Investment climate towards attracting overseas investments
and increasing cost competitiveness. The Government of India is setting up dedicated
Footwear Complex and Footwear Components Part where footwear clusters are located.
Footwear – Global Scenario and India’s share The global import of Footwear (both made of
leather as well as non-leather) increased from US$ 124.43billion in 2013 to US$
134.943billion in 2017, growing at a CAGR of 2.1%.

The Domestic Footwear Industry in India is valued at approximately US$ 3200 million,
projected growth at 11 – 12% p.a.
 Organized retail is 25% and growing fast at 35-40% pa
 Footwear retailing constitute about 9% in the total consumer market.
 Men’s footwear is about 50% of the market
 Branded footwear (including store labels) is about 50% of the market, driven by men’s
footwear largely
 Ladies and kids footwear, Sports Footwear also have vast potential in the domestic
market.
o Consumers purchase footwear throughout the year and there is no fixed period/timing
of purchase. However, the beginning of an academic session seems to be a peak time
for purchase of footwear.
Recent Findings:
1. A majority of consumers (over 75 percent) in metro and non-metro urban areas
showed their preference for indigenous footwear and about 17 percent indicated no
preference for indigenous or imported footwear. Surprisingly more than 10 percent
of consumers in non-metros towns showed their preference for imported footwear as
against only 6 percent in metro cities.
2. About 55 percent of the consumers surveyed indicated preference for leather
footwear while 45 percent preferred non-leather footwear. However, in non-metros
town, more than 70 percent consumers preferred leather footwear and less than 30

188
 percent preferred non-leather footwear. Consumer preference
3. A little over 53 percent of consumers expressed their preference for branded
footwear while around 27 percent showed their preference for non-branded footwear
and 10 percent were found to be brand neutral. Interestingly the preference for
branded footwear was more in non-metro towns in as much as 62 percent of
consumers surveyed indicated preference for branded footwear.
4. As against popular perception, price of footwear apparently was not a major factor
in influencing consumers preference. A majority (60 percent) of consumers would
rather prefer quality of footwear.
5. Expectedly, majority of consumers (58 percent) showed distinct preference for
comfortable and durable footwear, although a significant 42 percent of consumers
valued fashion and design of footwear. Competitiveness of Indian footwear vis-à-vis
imported footwear

The natural advantage of Indian footwear industry in terms of factor endowments like
availability of leather and cheap labour apparently has not been converted in to a
comparative advantage in production. Import growth has tended to rise faster than growth
of exports of footwear in recent years and this may at- least partly be reflective of the loss
of competitiveness of exports. Taking unit value of exports and imports of some items as
proxies of prices, it is observed that the unit value of imports in majority of footwear items
whether leather or non-leather, is comparatively lower than unit value of exports of these
items. Indian footwear industry poised for growth India has state-of-the-art manufacturing
plants. The footwear sector has matured from the level of the manual footwear
manufacturing method to the automated footwear manufacturing systems. Footwear
production units are installed with world class machines. Manned by skilled technicians,
these machines help to turn any new innovative idea into reality. Support systems created
for the sector have indeed served the footwear industry well. India has a well developed
footwear component manufacturing industry. The future growth of the footwear industry in
India will continue to be market-driven, and oriented towards EU and US markets. With
technology and quality of the footwear improving year after year, Indian Footwear industry
is stamping its class and expertise in the global footwear trade.

189
From soles to souls, shoes contribute a great deal to our human experience. Whether a pair
of bouncy new sneakers, or a pair of bright red pumps, shoes can make anyone smile and
can elevate any outfit to the next level. Knowing just how important proper footwear is and
inspired by the success accredited to the industry now-a-days, youth across country have
taken to filling gap between high-priced Mochi and Jimmy Choo with gusto. Armed with a
degree from CFTI, Agra, with specialization in leather footwear industry, worked with best
domestic brands and encouraged by friends and well wishers, many decided to launch their
own footwear companies.

Indian Footwear Leather and Accessories Development Programme-(IFLADP) has been

instrumental in fuelling the leather and footwear industry; hence,opening up vistas of
opportunities for its development and promotion on global platform. Being a chic style
statement in today's ultra fashion-conscious world, everything from flats, sandals and
stilettos to boots and sportswear rule the roost.

Footwear styling and growth

The historical background identifies the transformation of Footwear from commodity to
image, attitude and lifestyle. India being a country of artisans has always been looked upon
for its traditional craft of footwear making. Some of the traditional footwear created by
village craftsmen include leather chappals in Kohlapur, embroidered Juttis in Jodhpur,
Indo-Tibetan felt boots in Sikkim and vegetable fibre shoes in Ladakhor. The footwear
industries using traditional methods of manufacture, has clearly taken technology to heart
in recent decades, and this has greatly benefited both shoemakers and shoe wearers. Since
India is such a diverse nation, the types of traditional footwear found all over the country
are diverse too. Small and Medium enterprises in India have a major role to play in the
development and advancement of the footwear sector through sustaining and enhancing
their export contributionvis-a-vis development of clustering and many more such activities.

Attitudinal dimensions

190
India is on the verge of a retail boom fueled by fast evolving lifestyles and behavioural
changes towards shopping. With changing retail lanscape and advancing styles, Indian
footwear industy is set for a phenomenal growth in future. Indian market is brand driven
and organised players dominate the sales.

The increasing penetration of internet and social media to the lives of Indian consumers has
dramatically evolved their shopping behaviors. Urbanization is also a major contributor to
influencing buying habits of consumers. Rising brand consciousness and increasing
discretionary incomes has resulted in enormous growth in footwear consumption.
Consequently, it can be inferred that footwear besides being part of wardrobe, has also
become a huge status symbol these days.

Growing competition among global players is paving the way for the development of
innovative footwear with a focus on improving user-experience. The latest technology that
is gaining popularity is the use of polyurethane capsules in the manufacture of athletic
footwear. Some shoes are also being manufactured with built-in sensors to track the speed,
distance covered, and calories burned. There are some innovative running shoe which
boasts of a carbon-fiber spring-like flange under the sole that helps propel a runner
forward. Growing preference for premium and customized products has kickstarted the
trend of customized shoes. Many international brands have launched facilities which allow
consumers to
customize their shoes with patriotic prints of their preference.

Structural reforms for inclusive industry growth

What we wear on our feet matters as much as the clothes we adorn In Indian context,
footwear industry is a crucial segment of Leather and Non Leather products in India. In
order to help the industry move ahead and expand capacity, MSME have evolved as the
nurseries of entrepreneurship by introducing incentives for attracting foreign investments
across footwear units. Advent of Footwear park complexes has revolutionized the existing
scenario by creating new modernized production centres apart from the existing production
hubs at Andhra Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh and Tamilnadu. Moreover, several schemes are

191
being rolled out by Ministry of MSME providing capital subsidies and for capacity building
across footwear industry.

Clustering-an enabler to the leather footware exporting small and medium enterprises
Ministry of MSME in India has introduced clustering across footwear sector to establish
co-operation and joint strategy among the firms and also from the government for the
subsistence and growth of the SME sector. The Agra shoe industry is one of the largest
leather- footwear clusters with Central Footwear Training Institute and MSME DI Agra as
the major stakeholders in the Agra footwear cluster. Agra is the largest footwear
manufacturing hub in India with a colossal annual manufacturing value. Cluster
development activities in footwear industry has given major boost to private capital flow in
the organized segment and enhance capacity to keep pace with future growth prospects.

While prospects for India's Leather footwear industry has brightened in view of declining
production of leather footwear in the Western European countries, the industry in India has
to go in for substantial capacity enhancement in order to fully utilize this opportunity.
However, it is disheartening to note that India’s export share to world import for leather
footwear hovers around 2-3 percent only given the potential of Indian footwear makers.

Footwear industry- The new age career

Job creation is arguably one of the most important parameters to judge how successful a
government has been in envisaging and implementing its economic policies. The micro,
small and medium enterprises sector is one of the major employment generators in several
sectors while footwear segment is no exception employing nearly 1.3 million people.
Since footwear always has and continues to play an important role in complementing any
fashion trend that comes by, whether it is professional, semi-formal or routine, hence the
biggest advantage that a career in the footwear industry comes with is that of being non-
seasonal and always evolving. Footwear industry offers a variety of bright career options as
footwear designer, Product Developers, Footwear Technologists, Marketing Executives,
Quality Controllers, Merchandisers, Planning Executives, Trend Analysts etc. Most
significantly, the footwear sector has also been instrumental in developing a spirit of

192
entrepreneurship in the country, living upto the time-tested adage of poverty alleviation
through self-sufficiency. Those having a knack of creativity and forte for innovation have
hit fortunes in the sector by introducing their own shoelines under registered labels.

Changing dynamics
Leather footwear export sector is facing headwinds due to a challenging internal and
external environment. Though e-commerce is booming, yet it is difficult to sell footwear
via the internet as people still want to get a sense of the fit and feel of a pair shoes before
making the final purchase. Time has come to develop the linkages between the large and
export oriented units with the micro manufacturing units. Obviously, it can be inferred that
M/o MSME is striving hard for the upheaval of footwear sector. Yet, what is of noteworthy
importance is to change the mindset of the youth who must realise that entrepreneurship
besides being the sustainable way forward for the economy is also a significant means of
self employment. The Indian Leather Industry is serving as a major contributor to the Indian
economy, through its export earnings and employment generation potential. In the 1950s and
1960s, the industry was exporting mainly raw hides and skins and semi-processed leathers.
The export of leather and leather products during 1954-55 was USD 48.48 million, with value
added leather products constituting only 3.88%. The exports from leather sector increased to
USD 66.88 million in 1964-65 and the share of value added leather products increased to
9.39%. However, during the 1970s the Government of India laid emphasis on export of value
added leather products and constituted the Seetharamiah Committee which laid the framework
for export of value added products from the industry. As a result, the export of value added
leather products and footwear began to increase slowly to 20.51% in1979-80.

The 1980s saw the transition phase of the industry from being a supplier of raw materials to an
exporter of high quality leather products and footwear. Exports from leather sector reach a value
of USD 1218.47 million in 1989-90, with value added leather products constituting a signif icant
share of about65%.

India’s Export of Different categories of Footwear

(Value in USD Mn)

193
 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
Leather Footwear 2018.18 2207.17 2017.22 1952.44 1933.13
Footwear Components 320.15 361.29 284.34 298.69 335.24
Non-Leather Footwear 202.06 306.44 306.74 338.21 296.68
Total 2540.39 2874.9 2608.3 2589.34 2565.05
Source: DGCI& S

Some of the key outcomes of the 20th Livestock Census is summarised below:
 The total Livestock is 535.78 million -an increase of 4.6% over Livestock Census2012
 Total Bovine population (Cattle, Buffalo, Mithun and Yak) is 302.79 Mn in 2019 an increase of 1.0%
 The total number of cattle in the country is 192.49 mn in 2019 - increase of 0.8 % .
 The Female Cattle (Cows population) is 145.12 mn increased by 18.0% over (2012).
 The Exotic/Crossbred and Indigenous/Non-descript Cattle are 50.42 million and 142.11 million respectively.
 The Indigenous/Non-descript female cattle population has increased by 10% over previous census.
 The population of the total Exotic/Crossbred Cattle has increased by 26.9.%
 Decline of 6 % Indigenous (both descript and non-descript) Cattle population over previous census.
 The total buffaloes in the country is 109.85 Million showing an increase of about 1.0% over previous Census.
 The total milch animals (in-milk and dry) in cows and buffaloes is 125.34 Million, increase of 6.0.
 The total sheep in the country is 74.26 Million in 2019, increased by 14.1% ove previous Census.
 The Goat population in the country in 2019 is 148.88 Million showing an increase of10.1% .
 The total Pigs in the country is 9.06 Million in the current Census, declined by 2.03%
 The total Mithun in the country is 3.9 Lakhs in 2019, increased by 30.0% over revious Census.
 The total Yak in the country is Fifty Eight Thousand in 2019, decreased by 24.67%
 The total Horses and Ponies in the country is 3.4 Lakhs in 2019, decreased by 45.6%
 The total population of Mules in the country is 84,000 in 2019,decreased by 57.1%.
 The total population of Donkeys in the country is 1.2 Lakhs in 2019, decreased by61.23% over previous.
 The total Camel population in the country is 2.5 Lakhs in 2019, decreased by 37.1%

India holds sizeable livestock both in terms of numbers and in percentage share of global
livestock especially in buffalo, cattle and in goats. The livestock sub sector has emerged as
one of the key components of agricultural growth in developing countries inrecent years. The
Indian livestock system is the endeavor of small holders and it is a centuries old tradition. .As a
result of gradual transition from subsistence to market system, the economicdimensions of
livestock keeping have assumed increasing significance in household. India holds sizeable
livestock both in terms of numbers and in percentage share of global livestock especially in
buffalo, cattle and in goats.

194
The livestock sub sector has emerged as one of the key components of agricultural growth in
developing countries in recent years.

The Indian livestock system is the endeavor of small holders and it isa centuries old tradition.As
a result of gradual transition from subsistence to market system, the economic dimensions of
livestock keeping have assumed increasing significance in household behaviour. Over 70
percentages of the rural households in India depend on livestock farming for supplementary
income. The sector is highly gender sensitive and over 90 per cent of activities related to care
and management of livestock are carried out by family’s women folk.

The states of Tamilnadu, Maharashtra, Kerala, Uttar Pradesh, Karnataka and Punjab account for
about 60 per cent of the crossbred cattle population. In spite of India’s position as highest
producer of milk, productivity per animal is very poor. It is only 987 Kgs / lactation as compared
to the world average of 2038 Kgs/lactation. This is mainly due to poor level of nutrition as well
as low genetic potential for milk production and healthcare.

Contrary to the general perception, the overall employment in the leather sector seems to have
declined in the last five years. The NSSO- National Sample Survey Office Report for
2019indicate that overall employment in manufacturing and leather sector (covering both the
organized and unorganized sector) has declined not only inabsolute terms but also relative total.

About Indian Footwear Industry

The footwear sector is a very significant segment of the leather industry in India; rather it is
the engine of growth for the entire Indian leather industry.

India is the second largest global producer of footwear after China, accounting for 13% of
global footwear production of 16 billion pairs. India produces 2065 million pairs of different
categories of footwear (leather footwear - 909 million pairs, leather shoe uppers - 100 million
pairs and non-leather footwear - 1056 million pairs).India exports about 115 million pairs.
Thus, nearly 95% of its production goes to meet its own domestic demand.

195
The major production centers in India are Chennai, Ranipet, Ambur in Tamil Nadu, Mumbai
in Maharastra, Kanpur in U.P, Jalandhar in Punjab, Agra, Delhi, Karnal, Ludhiana, Sonepat,
Faridabad, Pune, Kolkata, Calicut and Ernakulam. About 1.10 million are engaged in the

Footwear manufacturing industry.

Footwear exported from India are Dress Shoes, Casuals, Moccasins, Sport Shoes, Horrachies,
Sandals, Ballerinas, Boots, Sandals and Chappals made of rubber, plastic, P.V.C. and other
materials.
The Footwear sector is now de-licensed and de-reserved, paving the way for expansion of
capacities on modern lines with state-of-the-art machinery. To further assist this process, the
Government has permitted 100% Foreign Direct Investment through the automatic route for
the footwear sector.
Conducive Investment climate towards attracting overseas investments and increasing cost
competitiveness.The Government of India is setting up dedicated Footwear Complex and
Footwear Components Part where footwear clusters are located.

(In Million US$)

2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
Global import of Footwear 124312.959 131,819.943 127,818.701 128324.900 134,943.372
India's export of Footwear
2609.804 2990.733 2771.020 2747.900 2785.993
% Share of India 2% 2.27% 2.16% 2.15% 2%

Source: ITC, Geneva & DGCI &S, Kolkata

Global Footwear import includes leather & non-leather
India’s Footwear includes – Leather, non-leather and leather uppers

India’s Export of Different categories of Footwear

(Value in USD Mn)
2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
Leather Footwear 2018.18 2207.17 2017.22 1952.44 1933.13
Footwear Components 320.15 361.29 284.34 298.69 335.24
Non-Leather Footwear 202.06 306.44 306.74 338.21 296.68
Total 2540.39 2874.9 2608.3 2589.34 2565.05
Source: DGCI& S

196
 Footwear is the engine of growth of the leather industry in India. India’s export of
Footwear touched US$ 1933.13 million in 2016-17, accounting for a share of 45 % in
India’s total export from the leather sector of US$ 5739.93Mn.

1. India’s export of leather footwear had increased from US$ 2018.18 million in 2012-
13 to US$ 1933.13 million in 2016-17.
2. India’s export of footwear components had increased from US$ 320 million in
2012- 13 to US$ 335.24 million in 2016-17
3. India’s export of non-leather footwear has increased from US$ 202.06 million in
2012- 13 to US$ 296.68 million in 2016-17

Major Markets:
During 2016-17, the main markets for Indian Footwear are USA with a share of 14.6%,
UK14.4%, Germany12.2%, France6.4%, Italy4.8%, Poland4%, UAE3.7%, Spain 3.3%,
Belgium3.2% and Netherlands2.5%. These 10 countries together accounts for 80.53%
share in India’s total footwear export.Nearly 90% of India’s export of footwear goes to
European Countries and the USA. Future growth of Indian footwear in India will continue
to be market driven. The European countries and the US are major consumers for the
Indian footwear.

A Statement showing India’s Export of Footwear to different countries (leather, non-

leather and uppers): (Year 2013 to Year 2017)

197
 India's Export of Footwear (Chp 64) to World,
Country-wise
Exports in USD (Mn) CAGR % Share in
in Change %
%2013
Ran Importers 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 - 2017/1 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017
k 17 6
World 2609. 2990.7 2771. 2747. 2786.0 1.6 1.4 100.0 100.0 100. 100. 100.0
8 0 9 0 0
1 United 305.2 360.2 425.8 458.5 405.6 7.4 -11.5 11.7 12.0 15.4 16.7 14.6
Statesof
America
2 UK 451.3 496.0 483.7 424.8 400.8 -2.9 -5.6 17.3 16.6 17.5 15.5 14.4

3 Germany 357.4 402.7 315.2 324.6 340.0 -1.2 4.7 13.7 13.5 11.4 11.8 12.2
4 France 193.0 208.2 175.7 162.8 178.9 -1.9 9.9 7.4 7.0 6.3 5.9 6.4
5 Ital 192.8 195.2 144.2 144.1 132.7 -8.9 -7.9 7.4 6.5 5.2 5.2 4.8
y
6 Poland 39.6 63.2 40.7 75.5 111.0 29.4 47.1 1.5 2.1 1.5 2.7 4.0
7 UAE 106.7 178.8 170.2 118.0 102.3 -1.1 -13.3 4.1 6.0 6.1 4.3 3.7

8 Spain 124.1 135.4 114.3 102.2 91.0 -7.5 -11.0 4.8 4.5 4.1 3.7 3.3
9 Belgium 67.5 78.7 54.7 67.3 88.3 7.0 31.3 2.6 2.6 2.0 2.4 3.2
10 Netherlan 99.1 102.5 85.3 74.8 80.5 -5.1 7.6 3.8 3.4 3.1 2.7 2.9
ds

Source: DGCI& S

Future Trends: - Keeping in view its past performance, current trends in global trade, the
industry’s inherent strengths and growth prospects, the footwear industry aims to augment
production, thereby enhancing its exports from the current level of US$ 1.73 billion.

Domestic Footwear Industry in India: The Domestic Footwear Industry in India is

valued at approximately US$ 3200 million, projected growth at 11 – 12% p.a.
Organized retail is 25% and growing fast at 35-40% pa
Footwear retailing constitute about 9% in the total consumer market.
Men’s footwear is about 50% of the market
Branded footwear (including store labels) is about 50% of the market, driven by men’s
footwear largely. Ladies and kids footwear, Sports Footwear also have vast potential in the
domestic market. Consumers purchase footwear throughout the year and there is no fixed
period/timing of purchase. However, the beginning of an academic session seems to be a

198
peak time for purchase of footwear.
A majority of consumers (over 75 percent) in metro and non-metro urban areas showed
their preference for indigenous footwear and about 17 percent indicated no preference for
indigenous or imported footwear. Surprisingly more than 10 percent of consumers in non-
metros towns showed their preference for imported footwear as against only 6 percent in
metro cities.About 55 percent of the consumers surveyed indicated preference for leather
footwear while 45 percent preferred non-leather footwear. However, in non-metros town,
more than 70 percent consumers preferred leather footwear and less than 30 percent
preferred non-leather footwear.

Consumer preference
A little over 53 percent of consumers expressed their preference for branded footwear
while around 27 percent showed their preference for non-branded footwear and 10 percent
were found to be brand neutral. Interestingly the preference for branded footwear was more
in non-metro towns in as much as 62 percent of consumers surveyed indicated preference
for branded footwear.As against popular perception, price of footwear apparently was not a
major factor in influencing consumers preference. A majority (60 percent) of consumers
would rather prefer quality of footwear.
Expectedly, majority of consumers (58 percent) showed distinct preference for comfortable
and durable footwear, although a significant 42 percent of consumers valued fashion and
design of footwear.

Competitiveness of Indian footwear vis-à-vis imported footwear

The natural advantage of Indian footwear industry in terms of factor endowments like
availability of leather and cheap labour apparently has not been converted in to a
comparative advantage in production. Import growth has tended to rise faster than growth
of exports of footwear in recent years and this may at- least partly be reflective of the loss
of competitiveness of exports. Taking unit value of exports and imports of some items as
proxies of prices, it is observed that the unit value of imports in majority of footwear items
whether leather or non-leather, is comparatively lower than unit value of exports of these
items.

199
 Indian footwear industry poised for growth
India has state-of-the-art manufacturing plants. The footwear sector has matured from the
level of the manual footwear manufacturing method to the automated footwear
manufacturing systems. Footwear production units are installed with world class machines.
Manned by skilled technicians, these machines help to turn any new innovative idea into
reality. Support systems created for the sector have indeed served the footwear industry
well. India has a well developed footwear component manufacturing industry. The future
growth of the footwear industry in India will continue to be market-driven, and oriented
towards EU and US markets. With technology and quality of the footwear improving year
after year, Indian Footwear industry is stamping its class and expertise in the global
footwear trade.

HIGHLIGHTS/MARKET DEFINITION-IN-SCOPE / OUT-OF-SCOPE

 Revenue in the Footwear market amounts to US$7,923m in 2020. The market is expected
to grow annually by 9.6% (CAGR 2020-2025).
 The market's largest segment is the segment Leather Footwear with a market volume of
US$3,407m in 2020.
 In global comparison, most revenue is generated in the United States (US$86,132m in
2020).
 In relation to total population figures, per person revenues of US$5.74 are generated in
2020.
SneakersAthletic FootwearLeather FootwearTextile & Other Footwear
Revenue (2020)+5.3% yoy US$7,923m /Average Revenue per Capita (2020)+4.2% yoy 
US$5.74

The overall outlook for the fashion industry remains positive as the share of the apparel and
footwear portfolio is expected to decline only slightly, leading to enormous overall growth
potential. The most important driver for the global footwear market is the increasing importance
of emerging markets not only as production sites but also as consumer markets. This indicates a

200
strong impetus for producers and retailers to diversify their geographical presence to enable
further growth. Additionally, the athleisure trend that combines comfort with chic and has
elevated functional sportswear to coveted fashion statements is bound to continue.
Sales Channels:
The distribution channel Online refers to the purchase of physical goods in online retail. In other
words, the purchase is concluded via the internet - on a desktop PC, tablet or smartphone. The
distribution channel Offline covers all purchases in stationary stores, via telesale or mail-order
and print catalogues.
Luxury Revenue Share:
The Luxury Revenue Share box shows the percentage of the selected market (market segment,
region) that is attributable to sales of personal luxury goods. The corresponding luxury figures
can be found in the Luxury Goods market.

1
Top 5

1. United States US$86,132m

2. China US$66,102m

3. Brazil US$49,653m

4. Japan US$27,933m

5. Russia US$15,780m

12. India US$7,923m

In 2017, the global footwear market size was approximately USD 246.07 billion.
The report highlights the key dynamics of India's footwear market. The growing opportunity in
the sector has been investigated along with the market drivers. The initiatives and performance
of key players including Bata, Future Group, Relaxo Footwears Limited, Liberty Shoes Limited,
Nike, Inc., Adidas AG and Puma. has been examined. The current market scenario has also been
studied. The report contains the latest opinions of industry leaders.
The footwear industry is one of the most rapidly expanding industries globally. Increasing
demand for new and innovative footwear and the emergence of various global as well as regional

201
brands across segments in the category is primarily driving the market. Innovative and trendy
footwear is being consistently manufactured by leading market players due to advancement in
the footwear manufacturing process, technological innovations, and development of new
material.

India is globally the second largest footwear producer after China. India's footwear production

accounts for approximately 9% of the global annual production of 22 billion pair as compared
to China which produces over 60%. Key production centres in the country include Kanpur and
Agra in Uttar Pradesh, Ranipet, Vaniyambadi and Ambur in Tamil Nadu. The sector is
fragmented and close to 75% production comes from the unorganised sector including very
small, small and medium enterprises.

With the expanding market, the needs of the consumers are also fast changing. Rapid
urbanization, higher disposable incomes and greater penetration of media have led to changing
fashion needs of the consumers. The footwear industry in India is highly labour intensive and
currently employs close to three million people. Out of this, almost 30% are women.
As per a report released by the Department of Industrial Policy and Promotion, the sector has the
capacity to generate 250 jobs for every investment of INR 1 crore. People are demanding more
and more designs and variations in footwear. Bespoke footwear is a fast emerging category and
the number of footwear designers is increasing in the country. While online sales of footwear
have increased manifold over the past five years, players are convinced that brick and mortar
stores in the category play a strong role.

Milestones achieved/ footwear towering heights:

 India is the second largest global producer of footwear after China, accounting for 13%
of global footwear production of 16 billion pairs.

202
 India produces 2 billion pairs of different categories of footwear constituting almost
equal percentage of leather and non leather footwear.
 India is the third largest Footwear consuming country after China and USA with
consumption of nearly 1.66 pairs while average global consumption is 3.0 pairs.
 There are nearly 15000 units engaged in manufacturing footwear in India with total
turnover estimated at Rs. 50,000 crore including Rs 32,000 Crores for Domestic market
and Rs 18,000 Crores for exports.

REFERENCES
1. The  "A Study of  India's Footwear Market 2019" report has been added
to ResearchAndMarkets.com's offering.

CHAPTER 6

203
 My Shoelace Blues
I’ve tried and tried to tie
you, shoe.
I’ve never done it yet.
A loop that flip-flops on the
floor
Is as close as I can get.
I’ve practiced on spaghetti.
I’ve practiced on the mop.
I’ve practiced on my sister
until she made me stop.
So here’s the loop again,
shoe.
I’ll hold it with my thumb.
I’ll wrap the other end
around…
And yank it into bows. It’s
done!
(Nursery Rhyme)

Vincent Van Gogh Painting-Shoes

pair of brown low-top sneakers painting, shoes, old, laces, sky, HD wallpaper

204
Michiel van Mierevelt, Portrait of Theodora van Duivenvoorde, 1620. Prado Museum. Detail.

The word lace is from Middle English, from Old French las, noose, string, from
Vulgar Latin *laceum, from Latin laqueus, noose; probably akin to lacere, to entice or ensnare.
Originally linen, silk, gold, or silver threads were used. Now lace is often made
with cotton thread, although linen and silk threads are still available. Manufactured lace may be
made of synthetic fiber. A few modern artists make lace with a fine copper or silver wire instead
of thread.Lace of clothes and shoe lace are different entirely. Their origin is, however, same

We don't realize it, but shoe laces are a small, important item in our lives. Everyone wear shoes,
imagine wearing a pair of sneakers without laces, in most cases your foot would fall right out.
Besides function, shoe laces are now used as fashion statement. Shoe Laces, also known as shoe
strings have been dated back to the 3500 BC leather shoe the Areni-1; its original laces were also
made from leather. It's not clear who invented the shoe lace, but it has been an important feature
to providing the proper fit and support in footwear. My parents forced me to get laced shoes for
years, even though I hated them. I could never get the “quick” tie method and could only do the
pair of rabbit ears type tie.  No-one knows exactly! Like shoes, shoelaces have been around for

205
thousands of years, long before names of inventors were ever recorded. Having started as basic
string or leather thongs with which primitive humans bound their foot coverings, they would
have gradually evolved into the shoelaces that we know today, with no individual ever credited
with their "invention".
Shoelaces are a system commonly used to secure shoes, boots, and other footwear. They
typically consist of a pair of strings or cords, one for each shoe, finished off at both ends with
stiff sections, known as aglets. Each shoelace typically passes through a series of holes, eyelets,
loops or hooks on either side of the shoe. Loosening the lacing allows the shoe to open wide
enough for the foot to be inserted or removed. Tightening the lacing and tying off the ends
secures the foot firmly within the shoe.

Background
Since shoes are important for protecting feet from hazards and weather, a proper fit is necessary
to maximize protection and comfort of the shoe's wearer. The shoelace ensures this proper fit,
and a simple pair of laces, costing very little can make all the difference in the world to the look
and fit of a shoe. The lace is just a simple, woven band that pulls the shoe together to hold it to
the foot. A shoelace consists of only two components: the woven tape that pulls the shoe tightly
together, and the aglet, the hardened, taped end that fits through the eyelets on a shoe or boot.
Shoelaces have surprising importance in our lives. A real watershed in a child's life is when he
has finally learned to tie his shoes. Athletes are vehement about checking and double-checking
shoelaces before races or other fast-moving events lest they trip on them or take time on the field
to retie them. American championship skater Tonya Harding nearly forfeited time on the ice
during championship competition in 1994 because her skate lace had broke and her skate fit
improperly.
Shoelaces are still manufactured in the United States and India although they are also made
overseas where labor is cheaper. They are made in one of two ways. The common method
includes the old-fashioned braiding of the shoelace using bobbins on machines that may be
decades old. It is a simple process but still effective in producing significant numbers of laces a
day. This method permits extensive variation within lace manufacture—one may vary fibers
used, color, the number of ends or yarns, and design as desired to produce an array of laces.
Recently, some new machinery has been developed for the completely computerized weaving of

206
a shoelace on a narrow fabric loom. Much of this machinery is European in manufacture and it is
not universally adopted.

History
The history of shoelaces is inextricably bound with the history of the shoe and how it was
secured and designed in different eras and cultures. In 2000 BC ancient Mesopotamians wore
simple pieces of leather that fit beneath the foot and were bound to the foot and ankle with laces
that were likely of rawhide. Without these laces, the soles were useless. The footwear of ancient
Greeks included sandals with rawhide lacing, and the ancient Etruscans donned high-laced shoes
with turned-up toes. Roman soldiers spread the use of shoes to western Europe, particularly the
utilitarian footcovering of the marching soldier. Ancient Britons adopted the Romans' simple
sole with a thong between the large toe and second toe, with rawhide straps securing the sandal
to the foot. There was a fair variety of laced shoes during this period, including shoes of more
luxurious fabrics and furs that have not survived. Many of the more expensive shoes were
secured with pins rather than laces. Both ancient Romans and Greeks deplored carelessness in
appearance, and those with haphazardly tied laces were ridiculed.
Shoes of the Middle Ages are less frequently found in excavations than those of the Romans,
perhaps because the sturdy leather of the Roman sandal seems to defy deterioration.
Nevertheless, there was a variety of footwear during this era as well. The poor went without
shoes. Other shoes were actually breeches of linen that were laced to the leg and down over the
foot, leaving the toes exposed. Other shoes were moving toward boots, covering the upper
portion of the foot, and strapped together. Later in the Middle Ages, cordwainers (shoemakers)
were able to fit boots and shoes of the wealthy more precisely and some of these shoes were
secured with buttons or just a few short laces.

In the Elizabethan era, shoes were often secured with straps, laces, buckles and pins—both plain
and jeweled. Prosperous American colonists generally secured their colored leather or fabric
shoes with buckles or ribbons, while those with less money wore sturdy, simple leather shoes
and boots tied with short rawhide laces. Eyelets for shoelaces, which guided shoelaces as they
passed through the shoe, were hand-sewn of sturdy thread until about the 1840s, when metal
eyelets were developed. Victorian boots for women were secured in a variety of ways. Popular

207
gaiters actually used elastic gores that made it easy to pull the boots on and off, and that held the
boots tight to the feet. Button boots were popular, as were ankle-high boots with metal eyelets
for fabric laces. Shoes and laces were mass-produced in New England, particularly
Massachusetts and New Hampshire, around the time of the Civil War. Textile braiding
machinery, constructed by New England firms for the purpose of making shoelace braid, was
readily available. Some of it is still in use in this country as the basic process of weaving the
shoelace braid has changed little, even though fibers and colors have changed.

Raw Materials
The materials used for shoelaces vary according to the type of lace under construction. Typical
fibers used for laces today include cotton, textured polyester, spun polyester, nylon, and
polypropylene. The aglet, the hard plastic end of the shoelace that pushes through the eyelet in
the shoe, is made of clear plastic. Acetone is used in the process of securing the aglet to the
braided lace.

The Manufacturing Process

This essay will discuss the method of shoelace manufacture that uses a braiding machine to make
shoelaces. It should be noted that the tipping and cutting of the woven braid described below is
fairly standard across American factories.
1. First, there is a large room filled with dozens of shoelace braiding machines. Each
machine resembles a horizontal circle and is equipped with 44 bobbins that all contribute
to the manufacture of a single shoelace. Attached to the machine is a basket that will
catch the shoelace as it is woven.
2. Next, the braiding begins. Electric motors start the braiding machinery. The bobbins start
weaving the thin shoelace, with the braiding action resembling a maypole as the bobbin
thread is deployed in a specific order. Side gears on the machine tell the machine how
fast to take up the yarn to vary the tightness of the weave. The more quickly the yarn is
taken up, the looser the braid. As the braid becomes longer and longer, it falls directly
into a can that holds it there until the braid is finished. Each braiding machine can
produce about a gross (144 shoelaces) every thirty minutes. Generally, the can holds
about 13 lb (5.9 kg) of braid. The amount of braid this basket may hold varies according

208
 to thickness of the braid. Heavy sport laces, such as hockey laces, quickly add up to 13 lb
(5.9 kg).
3. The cans of braids are moved to the tipping department. Each piece of braid is put into a
machine that performs a variety of functions. First, the automatic tipping machine
immerses the braid in acetone. (The acetone will allow the braid to hold the plastic tip
tightly.) Then, the braid is automatically inserted into a die that holds acetate tape. The
die is heated and presses the acetate tape at specific intervals (the length of the shoelace).
Together, the acetone, the heat and the die pressure ensure that the shoelace will accept
the acetate permanently. So, the braid is one long piece of shoelace that has a clear, 1-in
(2-cm) wide band of acetate every 30 in (76 in) or so. Now the shoelaces are hung on the
machine to dry (the acetone must evaporate) for about 20 minutes before the long braid is
cut apart.
4. The laces move along and another die advances and cuts each band of acetate in half.
Thus, each aglet is now about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide (the acetate band was about I in (2
cm) wide but was cut in half). The process of cutting the aglet in half cuts apart the
shoelaces as well. The laces fall into a basket as they are cut. The basket counts the laces
as they are dropped in. One basket can hold a half a gross of laces at a time.
5. Now the lace must be paired up. An operator takes two baskets, or one gross, of
shoelaces, and places the baskets on his or her lap. Then, the operator takes a lace in the
right hand and one in the left, and feeds them into a pairing machine. The laces are
sucked up into this elevator at right and left, are wound around a cardboard cylinder as a
pair, and are pushed through a chute for packaging.
6. The pair of laces wound on a cardboard cylinder are sent to the blister packaging
machine. Cardboard is put behind the laces, polystyrene in front, and the package is heat-
sealed. The pairs are sent to a cardboard shipping box for movement out of the factory.

Quality Control
Control of product varies by factory and method of production. However, one company that
utilizes braiding machines controls quality in three ways. First, the most important way that the
employees control quality is in monitoring the bobbins as they weave the braid. When the bobbin
is empty it drops down and the action stops until a new bobbin is put on. However, the new yarn

209
must be knotted into the braid to continue the weaving. The operator ties a large knot into the
shoelace so that the flaw is noticeable. The operator must remove that shoelace with a knot
before it moves into the automatic tipping machine, or the big knot will explode the heated metal
die (it is too bulky for the die).
Also, operators inspect each and every shoelace that is produced. Some laces are dirty and if so,
they are removed and considered flawed. Inspection occurs when the laces are hanging to dry
and as the operator is sending them into the pairing machine.
Maintaining machinery is essential to the successful operation of the business. The older braiding
machines are decades old and are still efficient and precise because they are thoroughly cleaned
and oiled each week.
Byproducts/Waste
Those companies that dye their own yarns must deal with the liquid effluvia ejected from their
factory and reclaim the water. Bleaches and dyes are an environmental concern, and
governmental authorities monitor their disposal. Acetone disposal, should there be any, is also a
concern. Some shoelace companies even produce their own cardboard packaging (others
purchase it). One such company has been cited for using solvent-based coatings for the
cardboard and causing environmental problems as a result. The company has been urged to move
to water-based cardboard coatings.
Shoelace construction

Fast Facts: Shoe Laces

 Prior to shoestrings, shoes were commonly fastened with buckles.

 Modern shoestrings, which employed strings laced through shoe holes and then tied, were
invented in England in 1790 (first recorded date, March 27).

 An aglet (from the Latin word for "needle") is a small plastic or fiber tube used to bind
the end of a shoelace, or similar cord, to prevent fraying and to allow the lace to be
passed through an eyelet or another opening.

Traditional shoelaces were made of leather, cotton, jute, hemp, or other materials used in the

manufacture of rope. Modern shoelaces often incorporate various synthetic fibers, which are

210
generally more slippery and thus more prone to coming undone than those made from traditional
fibers. On the other hand, smooth synthetic shoelaces generally have a less rough appearance,
suffer less wear from friction, and are less susceptible to rotting from moisture. Specialized
fibers like flame resistant nomex are applied in safety boots for firefighters.
There are also various elasticized shoelaces:
1. Traditional "elastic" laces look identical to normal laces, and can simply be tied and
untied as normal. They may also come with a permanent clip so they can be fastened
invisibly.
2. "Knotty" laces have a series of "fat" sections, which restrict movement through eyelets.
These can be used to adjust tension throughout the lacing area. These laces can be tied or
the ends can be left loose.
3. "Twirly" laces are like a tight elastic helix, which can simply be pulled tight without
requiring a knot.
Elastic laces both make the lacing more comfortable, as well as allowing the shoe to be slipped
on and off without tying or untying, which makes them a popular choice for children, the elderly
and athletes.

Three shoelaces tipped with three different aglets: copper, plastic, and brass
The stiff section at each end of the shoelace, which both keeps the twine from unraveling and
also makes it easier to hold the lace and feed it through the eyelets, is called an aglet, also
spelled aiglet.
Shoelaces with a flat cross-section are generally easier to hold and stay tied more securely than
those with a round cross-section due to the increased surface area for friction. [1] Very wide flat

211
laces are often called "fat laces". Leather shoelaces with a square cross-section, which are very
common on boat shoes, are notoriously prone to coming undone.
Shoelaces can be coated, either in the factory or with aftermarket products, to
increase friction and help them stay tied.
Shoelace tying

Basic shoe-tying knot

A knot squashes the cord and this stops the lace end passing through the knot
When a shoelace is secured with a knot, the lace is crimped, or squashed. Primarily this is what
stops the lace from coming undone. In effect, the lace is narrower inside the knot than it is on the
loose end, and the loose end cannot make itself smaller and slide though the knot. Generally, a
flat tubular lace will stay tied more easily than a round lace with a core because the flat lace can
be more crimped within the knot. Most laces, however, are round and have core of cotton yarn,
especially boot laces. For these to stay tied securely, the core on the inside of the lace must be
soft and compressible. A secondary factor of laces coming undone is the knot itself slipping.
This is due to a lack of friction. Cotton laces have a rough surface and will make a more reliable
knot compared to polyester (the most common yarn used in shoelaces). In addition, a lace can be
smooth or have a coarse surface, which will also affect performance. Finishing processes are

212
available, including waxing and silicone treatments, which enhance friction and stop knot
slippage. These are important design factors in the manufacture of hiking-boot laces.
Common bow
Shoelaces are typically tied off at the top of the shoe using a simple bow knot. Besides securing
the shoe, this also takes up the length of shoelace exposed after tightening. The common bow
consists of two half-knots tied one on top of the other, with the second half-knot looped in order
to allow quick untying. When required, the knot can be readily loosened by pulling one or both
of the loose ends.
When tying the half-knots, a right-over-left half-knot followed by a left-over-right half-knot (or
vice versa) forms a square or reef knot, a fairly effective knot for the purpose of tying shoelaces.
However, tying two consecutive right-over-left half-knots (or two consecutive left-over-right
half-knots) forms the infamous granny knot, which is much less secure.[2] Most people who use it
will find themselves regularly retying their shoelaces. If the loops lie across the shoe (left to
right), the knot is probably a square knot. If they lie along the shoe (heel to toe), the knot is
probably a granny knot.
Other more secure knots

Ian's Secure Shoelace Knot used on a pair of safety boots

There are several more secure alternatives to the common shoelace bow, with names such as
Turquoise Turtle Shoelace Knot, or Shoemaker's Knot, Better Bow Shoelace Knot, Surgeon's
Shoelace Knot, and Ian's Secure Shoelace Knot or double slip knot. One such knot has been
patented in 1999 under the title "Shoelace tying system".These are all variations of the same
concept of looping the top part of the knot twice instead of once, which results in a finished bow
of almost identical appearance but with the laces wrapped twice around the middle. This double-
wrap holds the shoelaces more securely tied while still allowing them to be untied with a
(slightly firmer) pull on the loose end(s). Possibly the simplest, also neat and quite effective, is

213
after tying a common bow to tie a half-hitch with one or other loose end around its adjacent half
bow, close to the knot; it is untied by pulling on the other (unhitched) free end.
Length
The proper length of a shoelace, fitting it to a shoe, varies according to the type of lacing used, as
well as the type of lace. However, at a rough reference the following guide can be used.

No of
Length (cm)
holes
2 45
3 65
4 75–85
5 85–90
6 100
7 110
8 120
9 Not applicable
10 130
11 Not applicable
12 150
13 Not applicable
14 180
15 Not applicable
16 200

Shoe lacing

214
An Oxford shoe with straight lacing

Shoe Lacing Methods

This is the process of running the shoelaces through the holes, eyelets, loops, or hooks to hold
together the sides of the shoe with many common lacing methods. There are, in fact, almost two
trillion ways to lace a shoe with six pairs of eyelets.

Common lacing methods

1. Straight-bar lacing
Straight-bar lacing appears horizontal and parallel when viewed from the exterior. Formal shoes
usually demand straight-bar lacing to preserve their clean, neat look. This is especially true for
dress shoes using a closed lacing system such as Oxfords, because the central shoelace
crossovers of criss-cross lacing prevent the sides of the shoe from coming together in the middle.
2. Criss-cross lacing
The most common lacing method, termed criss-cross lacing, is also one of the strongest and
most efficient. However, they are reserved for more casual footwear, such as sneakers and boots.
Derbies can be straight-bar laced or criss-cross laced.
3. Other lacing methods
Many shoe lacing methods have been developed with specific functional benefits, such as being
faster or easier to tighten or loosen, binding more tightly, being more comfortable, using up more
lace or less lace, adjusting fit, preventing slippage, and suiting specific types of shoes. One such
method, patented in 2003 as "Double helix shoe lacing process", runs in a double helix pattern
and results in less friction and faster and easier tightening and loosening. [12] Another method,
called "Rinlers Instant Lace Up", use additional accessories for instant tightening and loosening.[

215
A pair of Etnies shoes with checkerboard laces
Many other lacing methods have been developed purely for appearance, often at the expense of
functionality. One of the most popular decorative methods, checkerboard lacing, is very difficult
to tighten or loosen without destroying the pattern. Shoes with checkerboard lacing are generally
treated as "slip-ons".Most of these lacing methods are not suitable for formalwear.

History
It is as difficult to determine the exact history of shoelaces as it is for shoes. Archaeological
records of footwear are rare because shoes were generally made of materials that deteriorated
readily. The Areni-1 shoe, which has been dated to around 3500 BC, is a simple leather "shoe"
with leather "shoelaces" passing through slotted "eyelets" cut into the hide. The more complex
shoes worn by Ötzi the Iceman, who lived around 3300 BC, were bound with "shoelaces" made
of lime bark string.
As for shoelaces in the sense that we know them in modern times, the Museum of London has
documented examples of medieval footwear dating from as far back as the 12th century, which
clearly show the lacing passing through a series of hooks or eyelets down the front or side of the
shoe and being tied in a knot rather than hanging loose. [14] Indeed the code of the Knights
Templar banned the wearing of shoelaces as a vanity that was "abominable and pagan".[15]

Myths
A popular myth states that Gurkha soldiers, fighting for Britain, crawled along the ground,
feeling the laces of the soldiers they encountered. British soldiers employed straight- or bar-
lacing, while Japanese troops employed a criss-cross pattern. Criss-cross laces could therefore
mean the difference between life and death. The importance of correct lacing was thus
emphasized to British troops. Whether true or not, there is an account of Gurkha soldiers

216
checking the boots and laces of soldiers they encounter in the dark to find if they are friend or
foe.

Shoelace accessories

A deubré on a NIKE Air Force 1 sneaker.

There are many shoelace accessories. There are hooks to help lace shoelaces tightly. They are
especially useful for skates where tight lacing is important. Shoelace covers protect the laces,
especially in wrestling. Shoelace charms are decorative, as are colored shoelaces. Some laces are
colored using expensive dyes, other, more "personal" colors, are drawn-on with permanent
markers. Some dress codes (especially high schools) will specifically exclude color laces and
charms. Lace-locks hold laces together, eliminating the need for tying. There are shoelace tags,
sometimes called deubré, with two holes or slots through which the shoelace is passed. These are
worn on the section of shoelace closest to the toes, in other words the last lace, so that the image
or writing on the tag is visible Urban Myth
It is widely misreported that shoelaces were invented by Harvey Kennedy on 27th March 1790.
This date is centuries after shoelaces were in common use andis clearly incorrect. Perhaps
Harvey invented a particular type of shoelace, but he did not "invent shoelaces”.

Velcro wears out quickly in comparison to the rest of the shoe, then you end up with good shoes
with no way to secure them. Speaking of secure in the event that you trip or start to run fast or
any type of activity where you put quick negative pressure on the Velcro it will not hold. This
will make your situation worse. The advantages of the shoelace are multiple. You can change
colors or fabric type and when they do wear out they can easily be replaced. You never know
when you may need string/lace for a situation besides keeping your shoes tight, so ya I never get
Velcro shoes.

217
  Shoelaces are more attractive.
 Shoelaces can be swapped to add or change color in a shoe's appearance.
 Shoelaces are silent.
 Shoelaces can pick up all the lint or dirt in the world but are still usable, and if
shoelaces are so filthy that you don't want to use them anymore, you can put in new
ones.
 Shoelaces are more adjustable.
Velcro can wear out overtime and “knot” (pun intended) stick as much as it did when you first
got them. Shoelaces, on the other hand, can last longer than Velcro and you can just tie away! If
they do wear out, you can replace them with new ones!
Shoe Lacing Methods

An extensive selection of 62 × shoe lacing tutorials, including traditional and alternative lacing
methods that are either widely used, have a particular feature or benefit, or that I just like the
look of.

Criss Cross Lacing

Probably the most common method of lacing normal shoes & boots, the laces simply criss-cross
as they work their way up the shoe.

218
 Over Under Lacing
This method reduces friction, making the lacing easier to tighten and loosen plus reducing wear
and tear. The laces alternate between crossing Over and Under.

Gap Lacing
This simple variation of Criss Cross Lacing skips a crossover to create a gap in the middle of
the lacing, either to bypass a sensitive area on the instep or to increase ankle flexibility.

Straight European Lacing

This traditional method of Straight Lacing appears to be more common in Europe. The laces run
straight across on the outside and diagonally on the inside.

Straight Bar Lacing

Also referred to as “Lydiard Lacing” or “Fashion Lacing”, this variation of Straight Lacing
eliminates the underlying diagonals, which looks neater plus relieves pressure on the top ridge of
the foot.

Hidden Knot Lacing

219
By hiding the knot underneath, the result is an uninterrupted series of straight “bars” that looks
particularly distinctive on dress shoes or sneakers alike.

Straight Easy Lacing

This is a simplified variation of Straight Bar Lacing where one end runs straight from bottom to
top while the other end steps through the eyelets.

End Shortening Lacing

A variation of Straight Bar Lacing with a convoluted path on the inside that invisibly consumes
more shoelace, effectively “shortening” the ends.

Commando Lacing
Used by various military to lace tall combat boots. One end is anchored at the bottom and the
other end is used for tying off at the top.

Hiking / Biking Lacing

An inside-out version of Straight Bar Lacing, which distributes pressure evenly plus keeps the
knots & ends to the side, away from either snagging undergrowth or from bicycle chains &
cranks.

Quick Tight Lacing

A straight lacing method that is split into two sections for quick and even tightening. Pulling one
loose end tightens the top section, the other loose end tightens the bottom section.

220
 Gippo Lacing
A blend of Quick Tight Lacing and Corset Lacing, this complex method combines split
sections plus closed loops at top for quick tightening of tall boots.

Ukrainian Lacing
Named by its Ukrainian inventor, this method has permanently-anchored loose ends plus a
“captive” Starting Knot, which saves having to re-tie that first knot each time.

Corset Lacing
Traditional lacing for corsets, in which the laces can be gripped and pulled very tightly via the
middle loops. Useful for lacing boots extra tight or just for a different look.

Sawtooth Lacing
This method has all of the underlying sections pulling at a steep angle, which shifts the
alignment of the sides and may correct an otherwise ill-fitting shoe.

Lightning Lacing
So named because the angled sections look a bit like a lightning bolt, plus it is lightning fast to
lace. The laces run diagonally on the outside and vertically on the inside.

Shoe Shop Lacing

221
Previously common in shoe shops because many shoes came pre-laced this way from the factory.
One end runs from bottom to top while the other end zig-zags through the remaining eyelets.

Display Shoe Lacing

Shoe stores and photographers often use this inside-out version of Criss Cross Lacing on their
display shoes in order to finish with the ends neatly hidden inside the shoe.

CAF Combat Boot Lacing

This subtle variation of Display Shoe Lacing is the official method prescribed by the Canadian
Armed Forces for lacing combat boots, safety boots and lineman boots.

Chevron Lacing
Separate sections of Criss Cross Lacing and Display Shoe Lacing, forming upright and
inverted chevrons (∧, ∨) similar to those on military or police uniforms.

Ladder Lacing
This distinctive lacing is worn on military boots by paratroopers and ceremonial guard units. The
laces weave horizontally and vertically, forming a secure “ladder”.

Quick Release Ladder Lacing

To speed up the removal of tall boots with many eyelets, this lacing only needs a couple of
simple steps to release the top row, then the rest of the lacing loosens instantly.

222
 Spider Web Lacing
Like an angled version of Ladder Lacing, this decorative method is also worn on military boots.
The laces weave vertically and diagonally, forming an intricate “web”.

Double Back Lacing

This method looks interesting plus holds very firmly, but is terribly awkward to tighten. The
lacing first runs down the shoe, then doubles back up the shoe.

Bow Tie Lacing

This method “lengthens” ends because it consumes the least amount of shoelace. The laces cross
over on the outside and run vertically on the inside, forming a “bow-tie” outline.

Army Lacing
This inside-out version of Bow Tie Lacing is used on combat boots by various armies. With the
crossovers on the insides, the sides of the boots can flex more easily.

Train Track Lacing

Like Army Lacing with the inside segments running straight across, the result looks like train
tracks, and holds very tight because of the doubled laces through eyelets.

Winter Solstice Lacing

223
A fairly useless method, with the laces taking the shortest path through all the eyelets and with
hardly any segments visible – reminiscent of the sun's path in mid-winter.

Left Right Lacing

Having one end always emerging through eyelets while the other end always feeds in through
eyelets creates a series of “V” symbols that point alternately left and right.

Double Helix Lacing

Also referred to as “Spiralacing”, this patented method has the laces angled one way on the
outside and the other way on the inside. The resulting double helix reduces friction and allows
faster, easier lacing.

Locked Double Helix Lacing

A variation of Double Helix Lacing with inside-out crossovers, transforming it from a low-
friction lacing that was fast and easy into a high-friction lacing that “locks” each row.

Double Cross Lacing

This lacing is created by running three steps forward (on the inside), one step back (on the
outside). The result is short, wide crosses overlapping tall, narrow crosses.

Two-One-Three Lacing
Lacing across the ankle area in “2-1-3” sequence creates a firm Double Cross that reduces
pinching and may help prevent painful “lace bite” in tightly laced boots or skates.

224
 Hash Lacing
Like Double Cross Lacing, this method is also created by running three steps forward, one step
back. The result resembles a diagonal series of hash “#” symbols.

Waffle Lacing
Like a compressed Hash Lacing, this method runs two steps forward, one step back, with
double-passes through eyelets. Resembles the grid of raised squares or diamonds of a waffle.

Lattice Lacing
This very popular method forms a decorative lattice in the middle of the lacing. The laces are
crossed at a steep angle, allowing them to be woven through each other.

Zipper Lacing
This method “locks” the laces at each eyelet pair. Great for lacing skates tightly because the
lower sections hold while tightening. It also looks interesting – a bit like a giant zipper.

Riding Boot Lacing

Also referred to as “Bal-Lacing”, this method is for riding boots (motorbike or equestrian)
whose sides are joined at the top and loosen near the ankle. The laces zig-zag from both ends and
are tied in the middle.

One Handed Lacing

225
As an alternative to the One Handed Shoelace Knot, this way of lacing eliminates the need to
even tie a knot by leaving one end loose.

Segmented Lacing
Also referred to as “Zoned Lacing”, this method divides the lacing into two or more segments,
each of which can be laced up as tightly or loosely as necessary to achieve a comfortable yet
secure fit for difficult shoes or feet.

Knotted Segment Lacing

A more attractive though less flexible variation of Segmented Lacing in which a knot makes the
lower segment of shoelace permanently tighter or looser.

Loop Back Lacing

Each side loops back on itself down the middle, rather like when two springs become
intertwined. However, those loop-backs tend to shift off-centre.

Hill Valley Lacing

Pairs of rows are looped around each other, the peaked rows forming “hills” and the dipped rows
forming “valleys”. The name is also a tribute to the “Back to the Future” movies.

Knotted Lacing
Adding an overhand knot at each crossover increases friction and keeps the lacing much firmer.
Ideal for tightening ice skates, rollerblades, etc.

226
 Twistie Lacing
Similar to Loop Back Lacing with full twists instead of half twists, forming vertical overhand
knots similar to the horizontal ones in Knotted Lacing.

Roman Lacing
Alternating “X-I-X-I” on top of the shoe looks a little like Roman numerals. It's most effective
on dress shoes where the sides of the shoe meet in the middle.

C.I.A. Lacing
This set of methods was taught to C.I.A. officers during the Cold War as a form of covert
signalling, using straight segments interpersed with one or more visible crossovers at different
positions.

Hexagram Lacing
This purely decorative lacing forms a hexagram, or six-pointed star. This geometric symbol has
been used for centuries in various cultures and religions, most notably as the Jewish “Star of
David”.

Pentagram Lacing
This purely decorative lacing forms a pentagram, or five-pointed star. Besides the “magical”
associations, solid five-pointed stars are found on many flags, most notably the fifty stars on the
U.S. flag.

227
 Asterisk Lacing
Lacing sets of three eyelet pairs with a crossover plus a straight section results in a series of
asterisk [*] symbols. Best on shoes with multiples of three eyelet pairs (3, 6, 9, etc).

Starburst Lacing
With all vertical segments hidden on the inside and all diagonal segments on the outside crossing
at the middle of the shoe, the result looks like a “starburst”.

Supernova Lacing
Like two “starbursts” on top of each other – one on the outside, the other on the inside. Needs the
maximum length of shoelace and is useful for “shortening” long laces.

Zig Zag Lacing

This twin-rail zig-zag is a bit like a winding road or marble race. The laces alternately run
vertically on the inside or wrap around the vertical sections on the opposite side.

Progressive Lacing
With crossovers running at progressively steeper angles towards the toes, this lacing should feel
progressively tighter towards the ankles, plus it looks decorative.

Perspective Lacing

228
This decorative lacing has overlapping segments running at varying slopes similar
to Progressive Lacing, forming a sideways perspective grid.

Escher Lacing
Decorative lacing whose outline resembles fish swimming alternately left and right, reminiscent
of the tesselated prints from Dutch artist M.C. Escher.

Cascade Lacing
A decorative lacing with each row looped under the previous row, forming a diagonal series of
loops that appears to “cascade” down the shoe.

Cyclone Fence Lacing

Alternately looping under the left and right of previous rows forms a decorative lacing that
resembles a section of the diamond pattern of cyclone fencing (or “chain-link” fencing).

Woven Lacing
An “extreme lacing” for those who want a decorative method that others would never attempt.
The laces are woven up and down between adjacent rows, creating an intricate mesh.

Footbag Lacing
Footbag players use this lacing to open up the front of their shoes, making it easier to catch or
otherwise control the footbag (or “Hacky Sack”).

229
 NASA Space Boot Lacing
Used on astronaut's boots during the early space program. A doubled-up shoelace snakes up the
shoe, passing both ways through each eyelet to lock tightly.

Lock Lacing
Not a lacing method as much as a technique for creating a super-tight finish. It's often
recommended to help reduce heel slippage in running or climbing shoes.
When you tie and untie nylon or pastic based laces the friction constantly heats and cools the
material, it takes a long time but in time this has the same effect as using a lighter to melt it into a
solid plastic.
You can improve the grip immediately by taking a rough rasp and taking off the smooth coat that
has been melted onto it.
You can avoid the issue in the future by avoiding these types of laces.
You can also use a different knot that has more friction even if the lace is smooth.

230
There is much more friction holding this knot tightly, but it wil smooth out the sheath of the lace
at the same time, however, using this knot it will still keep it’s grip for a very very long time,
.

231
An eyelet is a hole that's meant for threading a cord or lace through. When you lace up your
sneakers, you pass the shoelace through eyelets in your shoes. Many eyelets have metal rings
that make it easy to put strings or cords through them, while others are simply holes punched in
cloth or leather.

232
A. Shoelace tipping machine. B. Tipping mechanism. C. The frog that wraps the lace and
secures the ends in preparation for tipping.

A new study by mechanical engineers at UC Berkeley finally shows why your shoelaces may
keep coming untied. It’s a question that everyone asks, often after stopping to retie their shoes,
yet one that nobody had investigated until now. The answer, the study suggests, is that a double
whammy of stomping and whipping forces acts like an invisible hand, loosening the knot and
then tugging on the free ends of your laces until the whole thing unravels.

233
The study is more than an example of science answering a seemingly obvious question. A better
understanding of knot mechanics is needed for sharper insight into how knotted structures fail
under a variety of forces. Using a slow-motion camera and a series of experiments, the study
shows that shoelace knot failure happens in a matter of seconds, triggered by a complex
interaction of forces.
“When you talk about knotted structures, if you can start to understand the shoelace, then you
can apply it to other things, like DNA or microstructures, that fail under dynamic forces,” said
Christopher Daily-Diamond, study co-author and a graduate student at Berkeley. “This is the
first step toward understanding why certain knots are better than others, which no one has really
done.”

There are two ways to tie the common shoelace bow tie knot, and one is stronger than the other,
but no one knows why. The strong version of the knot is based on a square knot: two lace

234
crossings of opposite handedness on top of each other. The weak version is based on a false knot;
the two lace crossings have the same handedness, causing the knot to twist instead of lying flat
when tightened. The current study shows that both versions fail in the same way, and lays the
groundwork for future investigation into why the two similar structures have different structural
integrities.
“We are trying to understand knots from a mechanics perspective, such as why you can take two
strands and connect them in a certain way that can be very strong, but another way of connecting
them is very weak,” said Oliver O’Reilly, a Berkeley professor of mechanical engineering,
whose lab conducted the research. “We were able to show that the weak knot will always fail and
the strong knot will fail at a certain time scale, but we still do not understand why there’s a
fundamental mechanical difference between those two knots.”
The goal of the new study was to develop a baseline understanding of the mechanics of how a
shoelace bow tie knot comes untied under dynamic forces. Previous studies have described how
knotted structures fail under sustained loads, but little research has shown how knotted structures
fail under the dynamic pressures of changing forces and loads.
The first step was to record the process of a shoelace knot untying in slow motion. Study co-
author and graduate student Christine Gregg, a runner, laced up a pair of running shoes and ran
on a treadmill while her colleagues filmed her shoes.
The researchers found that a shoelace knot unties like this: When running, your foot strikes the
ground at seven times the force of gravity. The knot stretches and then relaxes in response to that
force. As the knot loosens, the swinging leg applies an inertial force on the free ends of the laces,
which rapidly leads to a failure of the knot in as few as two strides after inertia acts on the laces.
“To untie my knots, I pull on the free end of a bow tie and it comes undone. The shoelace knot
comes untied due to the same sort of motion,” said Gregg, a Berkeley Chancellor’s Fellow. “The
forces that cause this are not from a person pulling on the free end, but from the inertial forces of
the leg swinging back and forth while the knot is loosened from the shoe repeatedly striking the
ground.”
In addition to the dynamic interaction of forces on the knot, the footage also revealed a large
magnitude of acceleration at the base of the knot. To dig deeper, the researchers then used an
impacting pendulum to swing a shoelace knot and test knot mechanics using a variety of
different laces.

235
“Some laces might be better than others for tying knots, but the fundamental mechanics causing
them to fail is the same, we believe,” Gregg said.
The researchers also tested their theory that increasing inertial forces on the free ends would
trigger runaway failure of the knot. They added weights to the free ends of the laces on a
swinging knot and saw that knots failed at higher rates as the inertial forces on the free ends
increased.
“You really need both the impulsive force at the base of the knot and you need the pulling forces
of the free ends and the loops,” Daily-Diamond said. “You can’t seem to get knot failure without
both.”
Of course, when a person goes walking or running, their shoelaces don’t always come untied.
Tightly tied laces can require more cycles of impact and leg swinging to cause knot failure than
one might experience in a day’s worth of walking or running. More research is needed to tease
apart all the variables involved in the process. But the study does offer an answer to the annoying
question of why your laces seem fine one minute and then come untied the next.
“The interesting thing about this mechanism is that your laces can be fine for a really long time,
and it’s not until you get one little bit of motion to cause loosening that starts this avalanche
effect leading to knot failure,” Gregg said. 1

236
In another study, the influence of shoe lacing on foot biomechanics in running was studied.
Twenty experienced rearfoot runners ran in six different lacing conditions across a force
platform at a speed of 3.3 m . s(-1). Foot pronation during contact, tibial acceleration, and plantar
pressure distribution of the right leg were recorded. The test conditions differed in the number of
laced eyelets (1, 2, 3, 6 or 7) and in lacing tightness (weak, regular or strong). The results show
reduced loading rates (P < 0.05) and pronation velocities (P < 0.01) in the tightest and highest
lacing conditions. The lowest peak pressures under the heel and lateral midfoot (P < 0.01) were
observed in the high (seven-eyelet) lacing pattern. Regular six-eyelet cross-lacing resulted in
higher loading rates (P < 0.05) and higher peak heel pressures (P < 0.01) than seven-eyelet
lacing, without any significant differences in perceived comfort. The low lace shoe conditions
resulted in lower impacts (P < 0.01) and lower peak pressures under metatarsal heads III and V
(P < 0.01), which is probably induced by the foot sliding within the shoe. A firm foot-to-shoe
coupling with higher lacing leads to a more effective use of running shoe features and is likely to
reduce the risk of lower limb injury. 2
How to Hide Shoelaces
Hidden shoelaces are an interesting fashion statement you can try with any type of shoe. Hiding
your laces can make your look more sleek and clean. It can also help if you don't like the lace
color of the shoes you've bought and want to make them less visible. By lacing the shoes with
straight "bars" instead of crosses, you can reduce the amount of lace that can be seen on the top
of the shoe. Or, if you don't mind standard criss-crossed lacing but don't like a big floppy bow,
you can knot your laces inside the toe of your shoe instead.
Method1: Doing Hidden Knot Lacing

237
Put the ends of the laces into the holes closest to your toe. Remove the laces from your shoe.
Put both ends of the lace in the bottom holes going from the outside to the inside. This should
create a bar across the bottom two holes on the outside of the shoe. Pull the ends of the lace up to
tighten it. Make sure the lace is centered and that both ends are the same length.
2. Make your first "bar" by bringing the left shoelace up and across to the right. Bring the
left shoelace up through the second hole from the bottom. This should be the hole just above the
hole it went into. Then bring the lace across and push it down through the hole straight across
from it. This should make a bar across the front of the shoe on the outside. 

3 Make your second "bar" by bringing the right shoelace up and across to the left.  Bring
the right shoelace up through the third hole from the bottom. This should be the hole just above
the hole the left lace went into. You will then thread the right lace down through the hole
immediately across from it, the same as you did with the left end. This should make the second
bar.

238
 4. Continue making "bars" up the front of the shoe. Continue to thread the laces
according to this pattern: bring the left lace up through the hole just above the previous
hole you worked with, and down into the hole straight across. Then bring the right lace
up out of the hole just above the hole the left lace went into, and bring the right lace down
into the hole straight across. On the underside, your laces should run alongside the tongue
of the shoe without crossing it.
5.

5.Tie a bow on the inside of the shoe. Make a bow as you normally would, but hide it under the
tongue of the shoe. Cross the left lace over the right lace, and bring it down to twist the laces.
Now make a loop with the right lace, and wrap the left lace around the back of the loop, bring it
forward, and push it through the hole under the loop. Grab the original loop and the loop you
have just made, and pull them until the bow is tight. Some people find having the bow under the
tongue makes their shoes painful to wear. If this is uncomfortable for you, you can try pushing

239
the bow under the sole of the shoe or to one side of your foot instead.

6.Using Normal Criss-Cross Lacing with an Invisible Bow

Start threading your laces at the end closest to your toe. Remove the laces from your shoes. Put
both ends of the lace in the bottom holes from the inside to the outside. This should create a bar

240
across the bottom two holes on the inside of the shoe. Pull the ends of the lace up to tighten it.
Make sure the lace is centered and that both ends are the same length.
Criss-cross lacing is the most common type of shoe lacing. Most shoes will already be laced this
way when they are purchased. Save yourself some time by checking to see whether they are
already laced in a criss-cross pattern before you remove them.

7..Make criss-cross lacing by crossing the right lace over the left lace. Cross the right lace
over the left and thread it up through the hole second to the bottom on the left. Now thread the
left lace up through the second hole to the bottom on the right to make an X. Repeat this action,
crossing the right lace over the left lace and bringing each end up through the next set of holes,
until you reach the top of the shoe.

8. Have the laces going into the shoe at the top. When you reach the top set of holes, thread the
laces into the holes downward instead of upward. Instead of coming up out of the shoe, the laces
shold be going down into the shoe. This will leave the long ends inside the shoe. 

241
9. Cross right over left, then left over right to tie a square knot in the laces. Pull the
shoelaces down to the toe of the shoe. Keeping the laces loose, cross the right lace over the left
lace at the toe of the shoe, then bring the end of it under the place where the two laces cross to
make a twist in the laces. Do not pull too tight, because you want this twist to stay at the toe of
the shoe. Next, cross the left lace over the right lace and bring it under the place where the laces
cross, above the first twist you created.

242
Remember to keep the laces loose as you do this. The knot should land just inside the point of
your shoe. It should fit in the space in front of your toes.

10. Tuck the knot all the way inside your shoe. Make sure that the knot goes all of the way
down to the toe so that it will not rub your feet as you walk. Check that the knot is in the proper
place each time you put the shoes on.3

243
   

REFERENCES

1. https://phys.org/news/2017-04-shoe-string-theory-science-shoelaces-untied.html

2. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/23804393_Effects_of_different_shoe-
lacing_patterns_on_the_biomechanics_of_running_shoes by Hagen, and Ewig

3. https://www.wikihow.com/Hide-Shoelaces

244
 CHAPTER 7

Upper and So(ul)le of SHOES

A NATOMY OF A S HOE

The following is a list of terms used to describe the structure of a shoe and its component parts.
Some terms refer to parts that all shoes have such as the sole, while other terms may only apply
to certain types or style of shoe.

245
Upper: The entire part of the shoe that covers the foot. The upper of a shoe consists of all parts
or sections of the shoe above the sole. These are attached by stitches or more likely moulded to
become a single unit then the insole and outsole are attached. The upper of the shoe consists of
the vamp (or front of the shoe), the quarters (i.e. the sides and back of the shoe), and the linings.

Vamp: The section of upper that covers the front of the foot as far as the back as the join to the
quarter.

Toe (or Toecap): A piece of leather (or other material) that is stitched or glued to the toe of a
shoe. This helps to reinforce this often strained area, but it can also make for a nice graphic
accent.

Tongue: The flexible piece of material that sits underneath the laces and quarter of a shoe. This
helps to spread the pressure of a shoe's closure across the foot.

Collar: The top edge of the quarter, where you insert your foot (called the 'topline' on a dress
shoe). It is often padded for extra comfort.

Counter: A piece of material forming the back of a shoe to give support and stiffen the material
around the heel.

246
Quarter: The back part of the upper, typically beginning where the vamp (see below) finishes,
and wrapping around the heel. If the shoe is whole cut, the quarter and vamp will be the same
piece of material. In most shoes, however, they are two separate pieces of leather.

Heel: The thick piece of leather or rubber that's attached to the sole of a shoe to raise and support
the back of the foot. Dress shoes tend to have a separate heel piece, which can be replaced if
necessary.

Midsole: The layer of material located under the insole but over the outsole providing the shoe's
main support and cushioning components.

Outsole: The piece of hard material on the bottom of the shoe. This can be leather - which is
more breathable but also more vulnerable to moisture and water damage - or rubber - which
offers some protection against the elements, but is less formal.

ARTISANS….. SHOE REPAIR

Those Who does not know the past, are not prepared for the future." Jürgen Schmidt

The uppers maker is probably one of the least known occupations yet the most important. Uppers
are the tops of shoes, i.e. about 90% of the visible part of a shoe at first sight. In fact, one could
say that a upper maker tailors dresses for the feet. Like a tailor, he makes patterns according to
the dimensions of his feet, cuts leather and fabrics, and sews them together into a three-
dimensional structure. He has to be extremely precise. The size difference between two shoe
sizes is only 6.67mm. A single upper consists of many elements, and if only four small flaws
with an inaccuracy of only about 1mm creep in when modelling, cutting or assembling the many

247
parts, the upper is half a shoe size too small or too big in the end. In addition, the different
leathers have very different properties, are sometimes softer and sometimes more solid. This,
too, has to be taken into account by the uppers maker, so that the wearer of the shoes will enjoy
his handmade shoes for a long time. There is not a second attempt with leather as with fabric.
Once sewed, the sewing needle leaves holes in the expensive leather.

Shoe uppers were completely hand-sewn until about 1860. The introduction of the sewing
machine in the second half of the 19th century quickly led to the industrial production of shoes in
factories. Factory made shoes had the advantage that they were immediately available and
customers could choose from many materials.
Shoemakers now had to produce faster and buy more and more different leathers and fabrics to
survive the shoe factories. However, a large selection of materials is very expensive for a small
shoemaker and the new sewing machines used to be priceless to many. As a result, it came to the
founding of uppers makers, who specialized in the production of shoe upper parts.

The wars of the 20th century caused tens of thousands of people to become invalids. Many of
them had injuries on their feet and legs. The orthopaedic shoe makers were challenged and the
demand for uppers for orthopedic footwear increased enormously. This led to many new
foundations of uppers makers. Unfortunately this didn't lead to the situation that the upper makes
was given a specific job profile. In vain uppers makers have called again and again the right to
train. Nevertheless, the uppers makers managed to get their own job profile only in Austria.
Thus, it has been and still is very difficult to train qualified young talent in Germany.
At the end of the eighties and the beginning of the nineties, the introduction of semi-industrial
"ready-made stocks" led to the closure of many shops. In some cases sales fell by 70%. The BSE
crisis led to an increase in the price of leather, at the same time, the pressure of health insurance
on the prices rose. Uppers makers came between hammer and anvil. In 2015, there were only
about 10% of the stores left compared to 1980. Some of the surviving garages invested in
expensive, modern digital technology to produce more efficiently and cost-effectively. Others
reduced production and continue to work traditionally purely by hand.
Nowadays, the outsourcing of the complete production of orthopedic shoes (upper and floor
construction) to low-wage countries is the greatest threat to the construction of the upper. For

248
every "ground" that is built far away from Germany, you do not need a upper made locally.
There is a danger that the last grown supply structures of local shops, leather dealers, tool
manufacturers ... will be permanently lost.

249
   

250
The sole of a shoe, also known as the outsole, is the bottom part of the shoe that comes in direct
contact with the ground. Shoe soles are made from a variety of different materials, including
natural rubber, leather, polyurethane and PVC compounds. The material used to make the sole
depends upon the style and purpose of the shoe.Shoes worn to play soccer, baseball, golf and
football feature cleats or spikes that dig into the ground and provide much-needed traction. Shoes
worn for basketball, wrestling, volleyball and rock climbing have rubber soles that provide
greater grip. Cycling shoes are very stiff and sturdy. Hiking boots have soles that are thick,
waterproof and offer traction.

The soles of men's and women's dress shoes are typically made from high-quality leather, rubber
or a combination of the two. Casual, everyday wear shoes and work shoes often feature soles
made out of natural rubber or polyurethane.

251
Soles can be made out of one material or different types. For example, an all-leather sole might
be a standard feature of a fine dress shoe, but it hardly offers any traction. Because of this, many
dress shoes feature a leather sole in the front part of the shoe and a rubber sole in the heel for
added traction.
Certain types of soles offer more traction than others due to specific materials or designs. The
material used in the sole is based upon the intended purpose of the shoe. For
example, athletic shoe soles feature many different types of materials that vary depending upon
how the shoe will be used.
Take dancing shoes as an example. For a ballroom dancer, a shoe with a smooth leather sole is
ideal because it's easier to glide and turn on the dance floor. A trail runner, however, might prefer
a running shoe with a lightweight sole that provides support and traction.
Soles are designed to be durable and long-lasting, but they will wear out eventually and are
typically the first part of a shoe to go. Most shoes are easily resoled at a shoe repair shop.

History of the Shoe Sole

The first shoes were made out of natural materials, so the outsoles were very thin. American
Indians made soft-soled moccasins out of animal hides. During the Middle Ages shoes began to
feature soles with hardier materials such as leather and jute, a tough fiber made from plant stems.
Shoemaking continued to evolve. In the 1600s shoe soles were almost always made out of
leather, which is still the standard in fine leather dress shoes to this day.
Up until the Industrial Revolution shoemaking was done entirely by hand. It was an extremely
time-consuming process because the leather soles had to be meticulously hand-stitched onto
shoes. Leather is a very sturdy material, which is good for durability, but its stiffness makes it
very difficult material to work with. The invention of the machine revolutionized the shoemaking
process. By the turn of the century, shoemaking had become almost completely mechanized.

252
 White Canvas HT-501 Happy Lite Shoe Sole. EVA Shoes Sole
Rs 42/ PairGet Latest Price
Shoe/Sandal Type: Sports Shoes
Size: 6-10
Material: EVA
Heel Height: 1 Inch
Weight: 200-250 g
?Perfect Timing?

Three people from different backgrounds and life stories randomly met one cold December night
in 2016 on a hill workout for the Winter Warrior Challenge through Fleet Feet at the Armory.
We found ourselves running up the hill at the same pace and just looked at one another and said
“hi”. Unbeknownst to all of us, this simple greeting turned into a “I’ll see you guys next
week.” Our friendship started to grow, and we began planning races together. Running was in all

253
of us, even though at least one of us really didn’t consider ourselves to be a runner. This
accountability through running became the foundation to where a friendship was built on top.
Building trust and loyalty though the friendship, we encouraged and believed in one another.
We challenge each other by saying “I bet you can”. This has been a core staple. From initial
thoughts of bettering a 5k pace and not dreaming any further than that, turned into an
accomplishment of running the Spring Forward 15k, and then the Flower City Half Marathon.
Dreams started to develop and wondering if a marathon was in the cards. Several more races
were run throughout the summer of 2017.

This article above is one of my favourite. It brings out the soul in running. 1 The Soul of those
who deal with the sole.

The sole of a shoe, also known as the outsole, is the bottom part of the shoe that comes in direct
contact with the ground. Shoe soles are made from a variety of different materials, including
natural rubber, leather, polyurethane and PVC compounds. The material used to make the sole
depends upon the style and purpose of the shoe.

Dancing shoes as an example, a shoe with a smooth leather sole is ideal because it's easier to
glide and turn on the dance floor. A trail runner, however, might prefer a running shoe with a
lightweight sole that provides support and traction.Soles are designed to be durable and long-
lasting, but they will wear out eventually and are typically the first part of a shoe to go. Most
shoes are easily resoled at a shoe repair shop.

254
Types of Modern Outsoles
The soles of men's and women's dress shoes are typically made from high-quality leather, rubber
or a combination of the two. Casual, everyday wear shoes and work shoes often feature soles
made out of natural rubber or polyurethane.
Soles can be made out of one material or different types. For example, an all-leather sole might
be a standard feature of a fine dress shoe, but it hardly offers any traction. Because of this, many
dress shoes feature a leather sole in the front part of the shoe and a rubber sole in the heel for
added traction.

Certain types of soles offer more traction than others due to specific materials or designs. The
material used in the sole is based upon the intended purpose of the shoe. For
example, athletic shoe soles feature many different types of materials that vary depending upon
how the shoe will be used.

Shoes worn to play soccer, baseball, golf and football feature cleats or spikes that dig into the
ground and provide much-needed traction. Shoes worn for basketball, wrestling, volleyball and
rock climbing have rubber soles that provide greater grip. Cycling shoes are very stiff and sturdy.
Hiking boots have soles that are thick, waterproof and offer traction.

The Inventions of Jan Matzeliger : Jan Matzeliger was an immigrant cobbler working in a shoe
factory in New England when he invented a new process that changed shoe-making forever. At
this time the shoe industry in America was centered in Lynn, Massachusetts, and Matzeliger
traveled there and eventually landed a job at a shoe factory operating a sewing machine for soles
that was used to stitch different pieces of a shoe together. The final stage of shoemaking at this
time--attaching the upper part of a shoe to the sole, a process called “lasting” -- was a time-
consuming task that was done by hand. 
Matzeliger believed that lasting could be done by machine and set about devising just how that
might work. His shoe lasting machine adjusted the shoe leather upper snugly over the mold,
arranged the leather under the sole and pinned it in place with nails while the sole was stitched to
the leather upper.

255
The Lasting Machine revolutionized the shoe industry. Instead of taking 15 minutes to last a
shoe, a sole could be attached in one minute. The efficiency of the machine resulted in mass
production—a single machine could last 700 shoes in a day, compared to 50 by a hand laster—
and lower prices.3
REFERENCES
1.https://www.fleetfeet.com/s/rochester/community/sole-stories/perfect-timing
2. What i the Sole of a Shoe? The History and Modern Types of Shoe Outsoles
https://www.liveabout.com/what-is-the-sole-of-a-shoe-2987688
3, https://www.thoughtco.com/history-of-shoe-production-1991309

256
 Chapter 8
Puss N Boots and COVID times

Illustration by Antoinette Lix, PD licence

The viability of the textiles, clothing, leather and footwear industries is unravelling, as workers
are told to stay at home, factories close, and global supply chains grind to a halt. The cancellation
of orders has hit thousands of firms and millions of workers particularly hard. We urgently need
solidarity and joint action across the industries’ supply chains. The ILO is committed to
supporting governments in protecting the health and economic well-being of workers and
businesses in the textiles, clothing, leather and footwear industries. The organisers of
Leatherworld Paris announced they have decided to cancel the upcoming edition of the trade
show, which was expected to take place September 14 – 17 at the Le Bourget exhibition grounds.

257
According to the organisers, the decision was driven by the lack of information on health
requirements from the authorities for major international events planned for September, as well
as possible travel restrictions for international visitors. “A survey conducted amongst loyal
textile and clothing buyers indicates that most of them are not yet ready to travel. Serious
consideration of all these issues and the lack of guarantees that this major event can be organised
under good conditions has forced us to take this decision. A difficult decision, but one that is
responsible to our visitors, exhibitors and partners”, said Frédéric Bougeard, President, Messe
Frankfurt France.

The next edition of Leatherworld Paris is scheduled to take place February 1 – 4, 2021
In 2019 the World Footwear has created the World Footwear' experts panel and is now
conducting a Business Conditions Survey every semester. The objective of the World Footwear
Experts Panel Survey is to collect information regarding the current business conditions within
the worldwide footwear markets and then to redistribute such information in a way it will
provide an accurate overview of the situation of the global footwear industry.

Footwear consumption to decline 22.5% in 2020

The World Footwear Experts Panel Survey whose objective is to collect information regarding
the current business conditions within the worldwide footwear markets and then to redistribute
such information in a way it will provide an accurate overview of the situation of the global
footwear industry is foreseeing a drop in global footwear consumption of 22.5% in the current
year

258
Since the previous edition of this bulletin, published in January, the Covid-19 epidemic
has strongly weakened the world economy and the footwear business with it. This becomes now
1
evident in the survey.

Impact on Consumption
When questioned specifically about the impact of the epidemic on consumption, as compared to
a no-epidemic scenario, our panel members, on average, are forecasting a 22.5% reduction, with
some regional variation.

Estimates for Europe (-27%) are a bit more pessimistic than for North America (-21%)

and Asia (-20%). Applying these forecasts to the consumption by continent reported in the
World Footwear Yearbook 2019 would result in falls in footwear consumption in 2020 which
could reach 696 million pairs in North America, 908 million in Europe and 2.4 billion in Asia.

The second edition of this online survey was conducted during the month of March 2020. In
which 129 valid answers were obtained, 41% coming from Europe, 31% from Asia, 16% from
North America and the remainder from other continents. Almost 40% of the respondents are
involved in footwear manufacturing (manufacturers), 17% in footwear trade and distribution

259
(traders) and 43% in other footwear-related activities such as trade associations, consultancy,
journalism, etc. (others). Footwear consumption to decline 22.5% in 2020

The World Footwear' experts panel, gathering specialists from all over the world, is foreseeing a
drop in global footwear consumption of 22.5% in the current year
Since the previous edition of this bulletin, published in January, the Covid-19 epidemic
has strongly weakened the world economy and the footwear business with it. This becomes now
evident in our survey.

Most of the panel members believe that over the next six months the quantity of footwear sold
will fall and prices will decrease. Perspectives are everywhere negative but particularly so in
Europe, where 9 out of every 10 respondents expect the quantity of footwear sold to diminish.

The Economic Times reported that ndia’s leather industry is staring at an export loss of $1.5
billion due to the Covid-19 pandemic that has gripped the global markets. Most leather clusters
in the country are closed barring the leather complexes in Kolkata and Unnao in Uttar Pradesh,
which have just received permission to reopen. India exports leather products worth $5.5 -$6
billion annually. Leather exporters said countries like US,Germany and Italy have started
sending enquiries and are negotiating for a lower price. The problem is exports cannot commit to
lower prices just now because raw material prices could go up landing them in Jeopardy. , also
due to the freeze on industrial activities. the migrant workers have left and so, getting labourers
is a real challenge. Since the units are closed, no one knows what is the condition of the raw
2
hides that are lying at the units.

My Favorite Message of the Puss N Boots story fits the COVID scenario in the troubled times
1. -Don't waste your time complaining about circumstances.
2. -The cards are in your hands.
3. -Play the best you can and you will be rewarded!

REFERENCES

260
1. World footware. https://www.worldfootwear.com/news/footwear-consumption-to-
decline-225-in-2020/4746.html?social_network=google&new_user=yes. Apr 13,
2020 Business Conditions Survey
2. https://economictimes.indiatimes.com/news/economy/foreign-trade/indias-leather-
industry-stares-at-export-loss-of-1-5-illion/articleshow/75710324.cms?from=mdr

261
 CHAPTER 9
Vegan Leather or Pleather or Leaderette

“So it is always preferable to discuss the matter of veganism in a non-judgemental

way. Remember that to most people, eating flesh or dairy and using animal products
such as leather, wool, and silk, is as normal as breathing air or drinking water. A
person who consumes dairy or uses animal products is not necessarily or usually
what a recent and unpopular American president labelled an "evil doer.”
― GaryLFrancione

Vegan Leather Market Will Be Worth US$89 Billion By 2025, Asia To Dominate Sector

A new report by Bangalore-based tech solutions company Infinitum Global estimates that the

market for vegan leather will reach US$89 billion by 2025, citing the growing consumer
awareness about animal welfare as the primary reason for growth, especially in the Asia-Pacific
region. The study also reveals that as consumers become more concerned about sustainability,
the sector will be driven to innovate more eco-friendly types of vegan leather alternatives, which
for now tend to be plastic-based products that have a shorter lifespan than traditional animal-
based leather.

Introduction: The word ‘leather’ according to the Oxford dictionary is the material made by
tanning or otherwise dressing hides. (Hides are the skins of animals) Anything made from
synthetics or natural cork cannot be called leather. ‘Vegan leather’ is a term created by marketing
experts to convince Vegans they are getting a product as good as the real thing. Vegan leather
may sound like an oxymoron because- it is an oxymoron. So what is vegan leather besides being
an ethical, sustainable, and cruelty-free alternative to traditional leather? Well, as you probably
already suspected: It isn’t leather at all!

262
 Vegan leather, also known faux leather, or a leather alternative—is a leather-like fabric
that isn’t made from the skin of animals. Instead, vegan leather is made from a variety of
plastic and plant materials.
Is Faux Leather Fabric Really A Viable Alternative?

leatherette is essentially just another type of fake leather -a synthetic material that mimics the
real thing and contains no animal by-products, which makes it an attractive alternative for vegans
at first glance.It’s composition can vary, however, with natural and synthetic cloth fibers used to
create the base material before being coated in either polyurethane or PVC.

Manufacture of leatherette : As a synthetic material, leatherette goes through a longer

production process than real leatherand the term leatherette is commonly used in the automotive
and furniture industries where fake leather is often utilized as an upholstery fabric, whereas the
fashion industry will opt for the frankly better sounding “faux leather” to describe synthetic
alternatives to animal hide.

There are, however, several terms to describe this material.

1. faux leather
2. synthetic leather
3. fake leather
4. artificial leather

263
 5. pu leather
6. vegan leather
7. pleather
8. vinyl

Difference between leather and leatherette: The main difference between leather and
leatherette is the price. Despite essentially being a by-product of the meat industry, leather still
commands an extremely high price and is often associated with premium goods. Leatherette, on
the other hand, is relatively cheap and will often be selected by those who are looking to make
savings that they can then spend elsewhere. This is especially true in the automotive industry,
where cars will often be sold with optional extras available.
 Durability: Leather is a very durable product, but it does need to be cared for. Stains and spills
need immediate attention or else you’ll be left with unsightly marks. If you’re looking for an
upholstery material you can just forget about, then leather really isn’t the best option for
you. Real leather also scratches very easily.Even though the life span of Leatherette is less than
real leather it can last 5- 10 years out of it before it deteriorates, depending, of course, on how
one uses it and well maintained, leather will outlast leatherette.
Maintenance

Maintaining leather can be hard work. This naturally porous material will soak up spills and
smells and is impossible to wash. Leatherette, too, is usually not washable, but it does have the
benefit of being a lot less porous than real leather, so you’re able to wipe leatherette furniture
down to keep it clean and you’ll also have a window of opportunity to mop up a spillage before
it soaks in. A leather seat or sofa requires regular dusting, vacuuming, conditioning, and
nourishing and some even recommend keeping it covered when not in use.
Choice

Leather was once s restricted to three options: black, brown, and, occasionally, white but today a
variety of dies have been produced to dye leather to any color one wants. The range of colors
available for synthetic leathers is far wider, which gives consumers greater choice.
 
Ethics

264
This should be a no-brainer but, as with so many things in life, it’s not quite a black and white
issue. While the benefits of opting for an upholstery fabric that does not cause harm to animals
are obvious, there are other considerations to take into account, such as the environmental impact
leatherette can have.
 From an eco standpoint, both polyurethane and PVC are not good, so opting for a vegan leather
may not be the best choice for the planet even though it is far kinder to our furry friends.
Distinguishing between leatherette and leather

The truth is that it is getting harder and harder to make the distinction between the two. Newer
technology is making fake leather better than ever at mimicking the real things, but there are still
a few tell-tale signs you can look out for.
The main one is to check the material’s pores. Unsurprisingly, real leather’s pores will be far
more inconsistent than that of a synthetically manufactured leather. So, if the pores of the
material are uniformly spaced, it’s a good chance that the product is made from fake leather.
Another way to spot the difference between real and fake leather is to check the edging wherever
possible. If you can see the edges of the product, you will be able to ascertain whether or not the
leather is real or synthetic by again looking for uniformity. If the edges seems clean and
consistent, then it’s likely to be faux leather. If the edges appear to be ragged and rough, it’s
probably real leather.

Finally, use your senses. Smell and feel will give you a good idea of what the material is made
of, regardless of how old it is. Leatherette will never smell like leather and will often have a
plasticky feel to it (although manufacturers are getting better at reducing this). Giving the
material a firm press will also reveal a lot, too. A fingertip on real leather will cause a “spider’s
web” like pattern to appear, whereas fake leather will not crease in quite the same way.When it
comes to ethical and sustainable standards of the leather industry, there’s a lot to consider as a
mindful consumer.Unfortunately, vegan or not, leather can be an incredibly harmful fabric at
multiple levels of the supply chain Infinitum Global analysts predict that global demand for
vegan leather is expected to rise by an annual rate of 49.9% to reach US$89.6 billion by 2025..
The primary reason for its rapid growth will be the evolving awareness about animal welfare and
rights, which will send consumers looking for more animal-free products, especially in the
footwear, garments and furniture industries. animal welfare and rights, which will send

265
consumers looking for more animal-free products, especially in the footwear, garments and
furniture industries. Asia will be the predominant driving force of the market, says the report.
While animal cruelty regulations may already exist in Europe, these policies are likely to become
more stringent over time and will also begin to surface in the Asia-Pacific, particularly as more
consumers become inclined to purchase animal-free products made from synthetic vegan leather
in the region. 
This projected growth in Asia will take place as the continent experiences a rapid rise in
population and disposable income, especially in China and India. Although North America and
Europe will continue to see stable substantial growth owing to the cruelty-free consumer trend,
the Asian market is expected to propel the majority of the growth rate as middle-income earners
begin to shun conventional animal-based products. 

The report also finds that mounting concerns over the environmental impact of traditional leather
will be another factor driving the ascent of vegan leather. This will work to incentivise greater
innovation in the sector, as current versions of vegan leather tend to have a shorter lifespan
compared to conventional animal-based leather and are less durable to heat exposure and
moisture. 
Concerns about the sustainability of vegan leather will therefore promote tech development to
create more sustainable materials that are less susceptible to wear and tear, as well as leather
substitutes that require less plastic and use fewer synthetic treatments such as bleach, which
contributes to fossil fuel production and water contamination. Consumer trends highlighted in
the report are already underway globally, particularly in the realm of cruelty-free, sustainable
and vegan fashion. Globally, vegan-friendly sustainable fashion businesses are experiencing a
watershed year, with independent boutique brands and fast fashion giants offering more
alternative choices to conscious shoppers. 
Iconic footwear brand Dr. Marten’s, for instance, saw the sales of its vegan boots skyrocket by
an astonishing 279%. Meanwhile, Swedish fast fashion behemoth H&M will be making a
number of eco-friendly and plant-based products using vegan leather derived from wine waste,
and global sportswear giant Reebok revealed its launch for the first plant-based performance
running shoe.

266
Most recently, London-based sustainable label Luxtra has partnered with Dutch company
FruitLeather Rotterdam ,to create a new collection of vegan leather handbags made from leftover
mangoes that would otherwise be thrown away as waste. 
In response to the spike in demand for ethical, cruelty-free and sustainable vegan products, a
number of certification bodies have launched new standards and guidelines to verify businesses
in the fashion industry. In February this year, the British Retail Consortium (BRC) set out new
guidelines to ensure that vegan fashion items are 100% free of animal and animal-derived
products throughout the supply chain of the brand.  It follows the move by Friend of the Earth, a
certification body of the World Sustainability Organisation (WSO), to launch a new standard for
sustainable fashion which covers sourcing, production methods and waste reduction amongst its
1
requirements.

 
Most vegan leather is made using polyvinyl chloride or polyurethane, both of which are plastic-
based materials (hence the popular, albeit maybe dated, portmanteau “pleather,” which originally
stood for “plastic leather”). And while we’re well aware of our planet’s plastic problem,
“pleather” is still the more sustainable and ethical option when it comes to handbags, belts,
wallets, shoes, and anything else you’d typically find using leather. 

267
The most commonly used materials for synthetic leathers are polyvinyl chloride
(PVC) and polyurethane (PU), which are plastic based materials. Another term for fake leather is
“pleather” which comes from the term plastic leather. These two commonly used synthetic
materials in particular have raised questions about the safety and dangers of vegan leather to the
environment. Very few vegan leathers are made from natural materials although it is possible to
find more eco friendly products made from materials like cork, kelp and even pineapple leaves.

Leather sellers often describe vegan leather as toxic, poor quality, lacking the variety and colors
of “real leather”, and as overall a poor investment. In reality, even inorganic modern vegan
leathers are made from similar materials as all other synthetic materials and plastics, which have
become much less toxic, while horrible toxic chemicals are used in leather processing, as well as
the factory-animal farming industry. Vegan leathers come in a variety of colors and textures, as
much as animal-based leathers, and often are easier to care and maintain. The quality in terms of
look and durability of vegan leather has improved dramatically, as the demand for its use in
fashion, as opposed to utilitarian functions, has increased. At this point the often the only way to
tell it apart from real leather is to examine the backing. Like animal-based leather, it longevity is
tied to how well its conditioned and maintained.

Consumption of animal products — yes, leather and hides included — is the single best thing
an individual could do to help the planet. As researcher Joseph Poore put it, “A vegan diet is
probably the single biggest way to reduce your impact on planet Earth, not just greenhouse
gases, but global acidification, eutrophication, land use, and water use. It is far bigger than
cutting down on your flights or buying an electric car.”
HOW IS VEGAN LEATHER MADE?

268
 \Vegan leather made from wine waste
 
Synthetic leather is produced with different chemicals and a totally different industrial process to
real leather. Bonding together a plastic coating to a fabric backing is the most common way to
make faux leather; the types of plastic used in these coatings vary and this is what defines
whether or not it is eco friendly. Although PVC is in much less use than it was in the 1960’s and
70’s, it can still be found in the composition of some vegan leather. PVC releases dioxins, which
are potentially dangerous in confined spaces and especially dangerous if burnt. It also uses
plasticisers such as phthalates to make it flexible. Depending on the type of phthalate used,
they’re extremely toxic.

The more modern and slightly less damaging plastic is PU, which is constantly being technically
developed to reduce its flaws such as the hazardous toxins it releases during manufacturing and
the oil based polymers it’s made with which make use of fossil fuels.

WHAT DOES VEGAN LEATHER SMELL LIKE?

Vegan/Faux leather that is made with PVC or PU often has a very strange smell from the
chemicals. It’s often described as a 'fishy' smell and can often be very hard to get rid especially
while trying not to ruin the material. PVC can also outgas dangerous toxins that give off this
nasty smell.

269
WHAT DOES VEGAN LEATHER LOOK LIKE?
Vegan leather comes in several different forms and qualities, so some are more 'leather-like' than
others. Generally speaking, and focusing on good quality vegan leather, there isn’t that much
difference to real leather. However, as vegan leather is synthetic, it doesn’t form a patina like
real leather does when ageing and it is not breathable as the pores that are printed onto the
surface of pleather are artificial.
VEGAN VERSUS REAL LEATHER: 
The main concern for most people when deciding between vegan and real leather is the impact it
has on animals and the environment. However, whilst the term vegan leather might imply an
environmentally friendly product, this is not always the case.

 IS VEGAN LEATHER GOOD FOR THE ENVIRONMENT? And IS it BETTER THAN
REAL LEATHER?

Quality and durability are also important things to consider when comparing vegan and real
leather. Vegan leather is often a lot thinner than real leather and much more light
weight which is great for fashion as it makes it potentially easier to work with, however it also
makes it less durable than real leather. A real, good quality leather can last decades when
cared for, whereas you might only get a year or so out of a pair of shoes made from good quality
faux leather. This is an important factor when deciding between fake leather and real leather as
the environmental impact of replacing a fake leather product multiple times is arguably
more damaging than the purchase of one real leather item.Synthetic leathers also wear out very
unattractively whereas real leather ages over time and forms a patina, which is considered to add
character to leather.

Faux leather, especially PVC based, isn’t breathable either where as real leather has pores
through which skin is able to breathe. So for clothing items such as jackets, vegan leather can
be uncomfortable when worn for long periods of time.In addition to environmental
factors, faux leather is typically a lot cheaper than real leather products. This is because
it’s cheaper to produce synthetic plastic leather than it is to produce real leather. The

270
craftsmanship of leather products is a highly skilled job and bespoke leather products such as
sofas, jackets and luggage can be thousands of dollars. Manufacturers are able to command these
prices because they are considered both high quality and highly durable.
 
MAINTAINING VEGAN LEATHER

 
As vegan leather is made with a plastic coating, it is already waterproof. This makes it easier
to clean by using a mild detergent or just by wiping it with a damp cloth, however it also
means that conditioningproducts can’t penetrate it to stop it from drying up and cracking,
which can happen if the fake leather is in the sun a lot and also if it’s a particularly poor quality
material. However, you can get certain products, which will cover the surface of the plastic to
prevent high temperatures and sun rays from cracking the surface. Such products can also help to
soften the material.
HOW TO REPAIR VEGAN LEATHER

You can replace or patch up the damaged area with a faux leather repair kit that can be bought
online - they’re easy to use and suited to different types of faux leather.

IS VEGAN LEATHER GOOD QUALITY?

Vegan leather can come in different standards of quality and as with real leather, the higher the
quality, the longer it will last. Faux leather is generally a lot cheaper and of a lower quality to

271
real leather, even at a high standard. Vegan leather is ultimately much less durable than real
leather and tends to be thinner so it’s not uncommon for it to tear or scuff badly over time.
HOW TO UNWRINKLE VEGAN LEATHER
It is important that you do not try to iron wrinkled vegan leather by putting the iron directly
onto the material. The method you should use to remove wrinkles depends on the quality of the
material – because synthetic 'pleathers' have plastic in them, they do not mix well with heat and
it can often ruin the product completely. High quality faux leathers can be steamed to remove
wrinkles if protected with asheet, towel or lining as they are much more forgiving against heat
however there still should be a lot of care taken when doing this. It is important that you  don’t
heat your fake leather for more than 30 seconds.
HOW TO SHRINK VEGAN LEATHER METHOD:
1. Wash the item in your washing machine on warm to clean off the article and prevent any
contamination from 'baking' into the plastic material of the pleather.
2. Put the polyurethane item into an old pillowcase and tie off the top with a shoelace or piece of
string to prevent it from falling out. Materials like this may get hot enough to stick to the dryer’s
drum, damaging the jacket and making a mess, so avoid this happening at all costs.

3. Set the dryer on high. Let the cycle go for about an hour. Allow the jacket to cool off and then
test fit it. Repeat the cycle as needed, using progressively shorter drying times until satisfied.
CAN YOU STRETCH VEGAN LEATHER
Faux leather does stretch, but not as much as real leather. You need to be careful when trying to
stretch fake leather because it increases the risk of it cracking, so it’s best to avoid it all
together.
CAN YOU DISTRESS VEGAN LEATHER?
Trying to distress faux leather will more often than not result in damaging the item. Most people
tend to create a distressed affect on faux leather using thin layers of acrylic/fabric paints – thick
layers can result in the vegan leather cracking and peeling the top layer entirely. Be sure to use
paints/dyes suitable for the material, as solvents often eat away at pleather. Remember to test the
paint on a small inconspicuous area of the product first before applying all over.
HOW TO DYE VEGAN LEATHER

272
Faux leather is not as permeable as real leather, which means the material cannot easily absorb
coloured dye. Therefore, even after dyeing your faux leather product you should be aware that
the process will most likely need to be repeated throughout the products life span as the colour
wears off over time.:
1. Prepare the pleather surface by wiping it down with a clean cloth to remove any dust or dirt
particles. For a thorough clean, it’s recommended to wipe the product down with pure alcohol.

2. Once clean and dry your vegan leather product is ready to be dyed with upholstery paint.
Please see the instructions on the paint product for the recommended drying time. .Remember to
test the paint on a small inconspicuous area of the product first before applying all over.

HOW TO SOFTEN VEGAN LEATHER

Vegan leather is less permeable than real leather, and therefore traditional leather conditioning
products have little impact on softening the material. Vinyl conditioner is typically
recommended to soften faux leather, and should be applied with a soft cloth in small circular
motions. Excess conditioner should then be removed with a clean cloth before leaving the
product to dry. The process can be repeated until the level of softness desired is achieved.

Vegan “leather” is, like all products made from petroleum, far more toxic to Life than natural
materials treated, cured and prepared with natural products without any petroleum derivatives or
products in them. Whether or not modern plastics fabrication is less toxic than it used to be, it
remains more dangerous to Life than natural, REAL leather. Really, the problem lies in the
maniacal nature of consumer culture. Yes, purchase things when you need them but be sensible
and reasonable about being a consumer. Choose natural products that, when cared for, last
decades or centuries. There needs to be an end to living chemically and in a death bath of
petroleum.

And switching to vegan leather is a change that the world has thankfully embraced. According to
a recent report by consulting group Grand View Research, the world market for vegan leather is
estimated to be worth $85 billion by 2025, 

273
Currently, the most popular alternative to PVC for faux leather is polyurethane.
Polyurethane, however, presents its own set of economic and environmental challenges. The
chemistry behind it is complicated, which causes the price point to go up, and also creates a
wider variation in quality and performance. From an environmental perspective, the main
concern with polyurethane-based synthetic leather is that solvents are used. The production
process involves painting polyurethane in liquid form onto a fabric backing. Making
polyurethane into a liquid requires a solvent, and those can be highly toxic.
“The newest versions of polyurethane are using a waterborne coating, and those are a lot better,”
says Dent. Ultimately, though, the type of polyurethane used in a piece of clothing is only one
part of the environmental equation. Its impact will also depend on the quality of the supply, the
way it’s put onto fabric, and the sorts of chemistry used in every step of the manufacturing
process. With so many steps, there is plenty of opportunity for bad things to happen. But is
it better or worse than actual leather? Dent says, “It depends on who you ask and it depends on
how you assess.” Obviously, for the vegan whose ethical concerns favor animal life above all
else, leather is out. But for those who don’t put animal ethics at the top of the list, there are other
factors at play. The biggest is that, as Gwendolyn Hustvedt, an associate professor in Fashion
Merchandising at Texas State University points out, “most cows don’t die to become a purse.”
The bulk of hides used in leather production come from cattle that are raised for beef and milk,
so not using their hides could be deemed wasteful. This by no means alleviates concern over
animal cruelty or other environmental concerns like deforestation, it’s just that, for those who do
eat meat, this gives leather, environmentally speaking, an advantage.

It’s an advantage, however, that can be easily rendered moot by the tanning process. “The
tanning process for leather has traditionally been awful,” says Dent. “People don’t live very long
if they become a tanner in certain parts of the world.” Chemicals used in tanning include
formaldehyde, coal-tar derivatives, and some finishes that are cyanide base. One study of the
Chiampo Valley, a tanning region in northern Italy, showed that more than 30 solvents were
released into the air from the surrounding tanning factories.  
Ultimately then, what can give leather an environmental edge is its sustainability. PVC and
polyurethane aren’t going to last nearly as long as leather and, as Dent points out, when synthetic
leather does begin to wear out, it doesn’t wear out as attractively. “What constitutes ‘worn out’ in

274
a leather is different from what constitutes ‘worn out’ in a polyurethane,” he says. In many cases,
leather actually looks and feels better with age, giving it the ability be recycled and re-used for a
much longer period of time.

The holy grail of sustainability is a closed-loop system. “With leather, nature has created its
own sort of closed-loop system,” says Hustvedt. “The carcass of an animal can decay in the
ground and nurture plants that are eaten by the next generation of animal.” Faux leather, on the
other hand, won’t decay and, is at best, “down recycling,” meaning it can’t be made into another
item of faux leather. That would require a complete molecular breakdown in order to then re-
manufacture it. Instead, if PVC or polyurethane faux leather is recycled at all, it is usually
repurposed as something like a vinyl awning.
For Hustvedt, the real question we should be asking, then, isn’t whether to buy real leather of
faux leather, it’s whether to buy anything at all. Accepting that we live in a consumerist age,
however, she suggests we at least think beyond simply how the product was made. We must
consider its entire lifecycle. “How long will this product last, when will I need to replace it, how
will I use it, how long will I use it, and then, when I do dispose of it, what will happen to it?”
Certainly a lot more than just, real or fake?

Quality and durability are also important things to consider when comparing vegan and real
leather. Vegan leather is often a lot thinner than real leather and much more light weight which is
great for fashion as it makes it potentially easier to work with, however it also makes it less
durable than real leather. A real, good quality leather can last decades when cared for, whereas
you might only get a year or so out of a pair of shoes made from good quality faux leather. This
is an important factor when deciding between fake leather and real leather as the environmental
impact of replacing a fake leather product multiple times is arguably more damaging than the
purchase of one real leather item.

Synthetic leathers also wear out very unattractively whereas real leather ages over time and
forms a patina, which is considered to add character to leather.Faux leather,
especially PVC based, isn’t breathable either where as real leather has pores through which skin
is able to breathe. So for clothing items such as jackets, vegan leather can be

275
uncomfortable when worn for long periods of time.In addition to environmental factors, faux
leather is typically a lot cheaper than real leather products. This is because it’s cheaper to
produce synthetic plastic leather than it is to produce real leather. The craftsmanship of leather
products is a highly skilled job and bespoke leather products such as sofas, jackets and luggage
can be thousands of dollars. Manufacturers are able to command these prices because they are
considered both high quality and highly durable.
 
There have never been more alternatives to real leather on the market than there are today. From
fruits to vegetables to rocks, manufacturers are getting creative with materials, and there are tons
of options available, with more in production. Below is a comprehensive guide that will explain
why vegan leather is better than traditional leather. We will also discuss how traditional leather is
made, the effects on the environment of both cow and vegan leather, and the various alternatives
available. So grab a cup of fair-trade coffee, and let's get started!

THE OUTLOOK IS GOOD

You know the outlook is good when big companies like BMW, Tesla, Ferrari, Mercedes Benz,
and Lexus offer vegan leather seating in their high-end vehicles. Vegan leather is changing the
world! Is there a vegan future for leather? Absolutely! It's already here with us in the present! 
Leather and faux leather are outdated, cruel, and pollutant heavy-industry. Its days are ultimately
numbered -and that can only be a good thing. Like vegan foods, which are more and more in the
main-stream, so are vegan accessories and clothing.

Your savvy vegan shopper cares just as much about what they wear as much as what they eat.
In addition to the environmentally friendly vegan companies listed above, other great companies
are growing by the day.The cruelty-free industry is expanding not only its food choices but
product choices too. It's a great time to live as a vegan, on our own terms!
Vegans just don't do leather from animals. Aside from the issue of killing an animal to make a
handbag, real leather is not an environmentally friendly product, and we shouldn't include it in
our fashion.The processes used to make genuine leather products put the health of traditional
leather-workers at risk. The lax regulations in factories leave the potential to deposit toxic waste

276
into the environment in the form of wastewater and airborne solvents that make it into our water
and food supply. All so that we can wear products made from animal hides?

VEGETABLE TANNED
There is a chemical-free alternative to chrome tanning, but it takes months and is considerably
more expensive to implement. You will probably not be surprised to read that vegetable tanning
is the original tanning method for leather, dating back to 6000 BC.
The cheaper, faster, chrome tanning process came about in the mid-19th century, and it quickly
eclipsed vegetable tanning in leather production. Vegetable tanning uses tannins found in trees
and other plants to give leather its resistance to rotting, flexibility, and durability. An heirloom
process, vegetable tanning requires highly skilled workers to implement.>Hides soak in vats of
concentrated tannins for months.
Vegetable-tanned leather has the advantage of being thick, durable, and biodegradable. Because
of the process involved, however, the end product is going to be a lot more expensive than if
made with chrome-tanned leather.

VEGAN LEATHER PROS: BACKED BY RESEARCH

A 2017 report, Pulse of the Fashion Industry, conducted by Global Fashion Agenda & The
Boston Consulting Group, reported findings in support of the use of leather alternatives.
The report found that synthetic leather ranked well below real leather in a list of fabrics by
environmental impact per kilogram. The report also found that faux leather had only one-third
the ecological implications of cow leather, which has the highest environmental impact.The
report gave an opinion on questions about the environmental health impacts of faux leather vs.
leather.
"Different leathers can have an over tenfold difference in environmental impact based on their
type and origin, how the animal was raised, and how the tanning process took place. Switching
to alternative materials can directly improve a product's footprint."Faux leather was sixth on the
list, below silk, cotton, bast fiber, and wool, but above other vegan fabrics like nylon, modal,
viscose, lyocell, polyester, and polypropylene, which had the lowest impact.The study did note
that organic cotton has one-quarter of the environmental implications of traditionally farmed
cotton. So while this report is good news for vegans who want the look of leather without the

277
guilt, it's important to note that vegan leather isn't blame-free when it comes to environmental
impact. Vegan leather ranked third in a biotic resource depletion, behind only silk and bast
fiber.

Another 2015 Sustainable Apparel Materials Report by the Massachusetts Institute of

Technology also examined the environmental impacts of different apparel materials.The report is
no longer available online, but according to this site, the report found that the annual emissions
produced by cow leather manufacturing are equal to the yearly impact on the environment of 30
million cars.
Microplastics: These microplastics become ingested by unwitting animals, including us. A
stomach full of plastic doesn't sound great, does it?PVC was more commonly used in the past,
while PU is its new, trendy sibling.If you think pleather doesn't sound so great, you're not the
only one. There is a host of new plant-based vegan leathers coming onto the scene as an
alternative to pleather.
BANANA
Yes, banana leather. Bananas do not grow on trees but the world's largest perennial herb, known
as the banana plant. Unlike fruit trees, which continue fruiting every season, the banana plant
provides only one crop of bananas.More plants can send out suckers from the underground stem,
but the actual stem that produced bananas will never fruit again.
So what to do with these past-their-prime plants? Why, make banana leather, of course! Banana
leather manages to be biodegradable, water-resistant, and durable all at once.

278
Coffee
A German company, nat-2, has developed a vegan leather made from recycled coffee, beans, and
coffee plants. The coffee product makes up about 50 percent of the materials in the finished shoe,
which also uses recycled plastic, natural rubber, and cork.The finished product does smell like
coffee, but we think that's a good thing. The first run of this sneaker sold out, according to
content on the product page, but it looks like nat-2 plans to make more coffee shoes.
APPLE
Apple leather is not the kind of fruit leather you may have grown up snacking on, though the
finished product does look a little like the fruit strips you'll find at the health food store.The
company turns apple pulp waste into 100 percent biodegradable, vegan leather.

GRAPE

Yes, there are still more varieties of vegan leather made of fruit. Also known as wine leather,
Vegea, an Italian company, produces grape leather. Vegea sources winemaking leftovers,
specifically grape skins, stalks, and seeds to make its products.The company does not allow the
use of toxic chemicals or heavy metals in its production. Bentley used Vegea's vegan leather in
the interior of its 2019 electric concept car.

279
PINEAPPLE
Another alternative to traditional leather comes from discarded pineapple tops. A company
called Ananas Amam uses this byproduct to create its sustainable vegan leather, called Piñatex.
This byproduct gives the farmers an additional income stream that requires no extra resources.
Ananas Amam extracts the fibers from the leaves using an automated machine created for this
purpose.The biomass that remains once the device removes the threads converts into fertilizer or
biofuel, so no waste remains.The extracted fibers process into a sort of mesh, which is then
exported to Spain to be finished into the final vegan leather.Ananas Amam distributes Piñatex
directly to designers. Piñatex is used in interior design and car interiors as well as for clothing,
shoes, and accessories.Hugo Boss makes sneakers out of this vegan leather. Check out the #
made from pinatex  hashtag on Instagram to see the other products made from pineapple leaves.

MUSHROOM
Moving away from fruits into vegetables, we arrive at vegan leather made from mushrooms.
Amadou Leather is a brand of mushroom leather. The company grows its mushrooms on sawdust
blocks.The company claims that the leather absorbs moisture and is breathable. The end product
is fully biodegradable and, the company claims, antimicrobial.
Slightly less appealing, MuSkin vegan leather comes from the Phellinus ellipsoideus, a giant
alien-life-form-looking parasitic fungus that attaches to and feeds on subtropical trees.
You're not very likely to encounter this vegan leather, as the production capacity of MuSkin is
quite low at the moment.And while it is biodegradable, this suede-like faux leather is also
somewhat fragile, requiring lamination to a fabric layer to increase its durability.
RED PEPPER
Called the "Berlin Curry" sneaker, nat-2 has used red pepper applied to an eco-flax layer to
create the vegan leather used to make up to 50 percent of this shoe.
The remaining materials are cork, glass (for the company's local), and recycled plastic.

COCONUT WATER
OK, now I'm just pulling your leg. Am I, though? It turns out that, yes, you can make vegan
leather from coconut water! Malai Design and Materials makes a vegan leather out of bacterial
cellulose from coconut water. The water they use is a byproduct that they then discard.
This vegan leather has a papery appearance, not unlike snakeskin.

280
STONE
Two German brands put their heads together and created a sneaker made from leather derived
from rock. And it's not something that Wilma or Betty would wear. The companies Rosslyn and
nat-2 (who you may remember from the coffee sneakers above) created a leather-like material
out of slate stone. The company sources the rhinestones which do not make it to sale from
Swarovski.
CORK
It's not just for your wine bottle anymore. Cork is one of the more popular sustainable vegan
leather options on this list.Cork is naturally water-resistant, which makes it a great candidate for
fashioning into bags and shoes. Depending on the finish, cork products sometimes really do
resemble a wine bottle stopper, and other times they look more like real leather. 
RECYCLED RUBBER
Some rubber products, like inner tubes, are great candidates for vegan leather shoes and
accessories. These biker boots use vegan leather derived from rubber.
ROSES
nat-2 is at it again with sneakers made from rose petals. The petals, which retain their fragrance,
are layered onto a flax fabric before being applied to the shoe.The company says the roses'
source varies depending upon sustainable practices and availability at the time of manufacture.
nat-2 uses ash, birch, maple, tulip tree, walnut, cherry, elm, and beech from ethically managed
forests.
WOOD
nat-2 also offers a wooden sneaker made of up to 90 percent sustainable wood.The wood is
applied to organic cotton and vector engraved in a way that the material bends and becomes soft
and flexible like a fine nappa leather. The feel is very smooth and fine, while you can smell the
wood and see the tree's natural texture." nat-2 company spokesperson.

VEGAN LEATHERS OF THE FUTURE

Entrepreneurs see potential in the market and are developing more leathers made from unusual
materials. To name just a few more: 
 green tea, 
 prickly pears, 
 kombucha tea, 

281
  soy, 
 and fruit waste are all materials currently under development for more varieties of
sustainable vegan leather.

DESIGNER VEGAN LEATHER

One of the most well-known animal-free designers is Stella McCartney.McCartney designs
synthetic leather pieces and has tried to develop more environmentally friendly options.Since
2013, the label has used alter-nappa, a material that incorporates polyester and polyurethane on a
recycled polyester backing along with a coating made of 50 percent vegetable oil.The recycled
support piece reduces the amount of petroleum used in the material's production. However, it
does not eliminate it.
On her web site, McCartney says that she uses only water-borne and solvent-free PU, which are
more environmentally friendly than traditional PU.McCartney acknowledges that the synthetic
leather she uses still harms the environment, even though it is reduced, and reveals that she is
exploring lab-grown leather.

CAR INTERIORS
Many car manufacturers are putting vegan leather on board their new vehicles. 
In addition to the grape-leather Bentley concept car, Mercedez-Benz is planning a recycled-
plastic leather for the interior of its EQS concept car. It is our job now to re-define modern
luxury by Mercedes. What is for certain is that attractive, contemporary luxury must be
sustainable—and sustainably fascinating," company head Ola Källenius told PETA.
Many other companies are already using synthetic leather in the vegan interiors of some of their
cars, including:
1. Buick, 
2. Chevrolet, 
3. Ford, 
4. GMC, 
5. Honda, 
6. Hyundai,
7. Kia, 

282
 8. Nissan, 
9. Subaru, 
10. Tesla, 
11. Toyota 
12. and Volkswagen. 
You can view a comprehensive list of availability by car model on PETA's website. If you're not
content with these options, PETA also has a list of companies that could improve and encourages
2
you to contact them to request fully vegan leather car interiors.

IT'S 2019 AND WE ARE LUCKY  ENOUGH TO BE LIVING IN A WORLD

WHERE VEGAN LEATHER IS A FAR CRY FROM THE CHEAP, SHINY
'PLEATHER' YOU ONCE KNEW.

Here at TouchDown Charging we are proud to be have made the move to being vegan, 100%
cruelty-free and created without any animal by-products. WITHOUT sacrificing the quality or
premium look of our products. 

Our vegan leather is of the highest quality. Just as smooth as animal leather, and can be easily
crafted into different styles of chargers to fit any home or office. We like to sum it up as - all the
aesthetical benefits of leather, without all the damaging effects on our planet...Why wouldn't you

SO WHAT IS VEGAN LEATHER?

Our Business Edition range is made from pure polyurethane (PU) leather which a is form of
synthetic leather. Our PU leather doesn't just look good, but does good. Unlike PVC, it doesn't
involve toxic chemicals such as chlorine in the manufacturing process, and is far more durable.

The main detrimental impact of animal leather on the environment is land use and greenhouse
gas emissions - as well as the chemicals, energy use and water requirements of tanning leather.

283
Stella McCartney Who are "demonstrating how a luxury fashion brand can push the boundaries
to make products that are beautiful, sustainable and cruelty-free. No compromises" 

WE ARE EXCITED ABOUT THE FUTURE

Our decision to move away from leather, along with small changes such as removing plastics
from our packaging, has allowed us to reduce our environmental impact drastically. We do
acknowledge that vegan leather is not completely without environmental impact, and will
continue to have a progressive approach to the materials we use.

Is leatherette a good choice?

There is a dilemma here- Leatherette is kinder to animals, which makes it perfect for vegans.
While on the other, it’s not biodegradable and isn’t the best product on the market for the
planet…which isn’t perfect for vegans! Ethically it’s good, but environmentally it’s poor. So, are
there any decent alternatives?
Environmentally friendly leather alternatives

Thankfully, there are some environmentally friendly alternatives to leather, and the rise in
veganism over the last decade or so points towards an increase in vegan friendly products on the
market; and more research and science will produce better environmently vegan leathers.
Cotton canvas

Canvas is durable and can look great on a number of different products. Many manufacturers are
using canvas to mimic leather, but be aware that this can often include a coating that doesn’t
biodegrade, making it little better than leatherette.
Hemp

Hemp fabric is nothing new, but with the connection to marijuana it has received somewhat of a
bum wrap over the years. Thankfully, this looks set to change. Extremely tough and very
sustainable, hemp fabric should grow in popularity as ever greater numbers of textile
manufacturers utilize this wonderful product.
 Cork leather (aka cork skin)
You may not have heard of it yet, but cork leather could become big news over the next few
years. This completely natural product is made from the bark of the cork oak tree, which makes
it both durable and eco-friendly. Start asking for cork leather when you’re out shopping to help
spread the word.
 Ocean leather

284
Made from kelp, ocean leather is another great sustainable alternative to leather, but is probably
rarer still than cork leather.
 Piñatex
It’s name is a slight giveaway as Piñatex is manufactured from pineapple leaves. A fairly recent
alternative to leather, Piñatex was developed in the ’90s and is already being used for a wide
range of products including seat coverings, shoes, and bags.
 Barkcloth
Barkcloth is a far more ancient alternative to leather, but it’s one that is making somewhat of a
comeback in many circles. Once ubiquitous in parts of Asia and Africa, barkcloth is a textured
fabric that is perfect for home furnishings such as curtains and upholstery.

The Future? The significant progress made in the past decades in the field of bioengineering
shows that this might be the case. Companies are merging science, biology and innovative design
to challenge the way we think about leather.

REFERENCES
1. https://www.infiniumglobalresearch.com/consumer-goods-packaging/global-vegan-
leather-market
2. https://www.greenqueen.com.hk/vegan-leather-market-worth-us89-billion-by-2025-asia-
dominate-sector/

285
 CHAPTER 10
THE FUTURE IS HERE
Top 4 Futuristic Shoe Inventions You Have To See
#4 Shiftwear Sneakers

"
src=http://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/images-1.jpeg alt="Top 4 Futuristic Shoe Inventions You Have To See"
width=496 height=296 srcset="https://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/images-1.jpeg 496w,
https://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/images-1-300x179.jpeg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 496px) 100vw, 496px">

 Save

What if a single pair of sneakers could change its colour to match any outfit you own or of that
matter your mood you are in !This is “Shiftwear Sneakers” an amazing shoe with downlable
designs.

286
 <img class="ss-on-media-
img size-full wp-image-320" src=http://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/images-2-1.jpeg alt="Top 4 Futuristic Shoe
Inventions You Have To See" width=495 height=297 srcset="https://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/images-2-1.jpeg
495w, https://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/images-2-1-300x180.jpeg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 495px) 100vw,
495px">

 Save

By using the “Shiftwear App” relavent 4 Colour High Definition designs and animations can be
downloaded and display right on the shoe and it will also be able to create and sell their own
designs to the other user. Tell the “Shiftwear Sneakers” in the latest technology in bendable “HD
Display” and “Battery”.

It still 100% “Waterproof” and “Machine Washable”. The soles built a last with real fiber, the
same material which is used in “body armour.

l" src=http://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/images-4.jpeg alt="Top 4 Futuristic Shoe Inventions You Have To See"

width=522 height=282 srcset="https://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/images-4.jpeg 522w,
https://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/images-4-300x162.jpeg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 522px) 100vw, 522px">

287
If you worried about “Battery Life”. The “Shiftwear Sneakers” use “Walking Charge
Technology“. The energy that you create through your walk will actually charge your shoe
“Battery”.

#3 Moon Walker

 Ever wonder what it feels like walk on the “Moon“, Hmm……..IT PRETTY HARD TO DO
YOU ARE ON EARTH !!! The unconventional shoe maker “Moonshine Crea” is come up with
2016 Moon Walker.A shoe that make a similar effect “How its actually defines gravity it
partically created the magicall feeling of gravitational.

<img class="ss-on-media-img wp-image-324 size-full" src=http://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-

content/uploads/2018/06/images-6.jpeg alt="Top 4 Futuristic Shoe Inventions You Have To See"
width=470 height=313 srcset="https://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-
content/uploads/2018/06/images-6.jpeg 470w, https://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-
content/uploads/2018/06/images-6-300x200.jpeg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 470px) 100vw,
470px">
   The “Moon Walker”  sole has 2 layers each fitted with thin and small but strong “N45”
Magnets. Magnets of each layer are set with north pose faceing each other. The layer repels
causing the magnetic gap and create a feel that light up your feet. The “Moon Walker” may not
give you the full effect of walking on the moon but it still these some adding this word “Foot
Gear”.

#2 Enko

288
me=http://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/images-7.jpeg alt="Top 4 Futuristic Shoe Inventions You Have To See"
width=466 height=316 srcset="https://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/images-7.jpeg 466w,
https://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/images-7-300x203.jpeg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px">
Without shock obsorber a drive in a automobile is a punishment. In the same way our feet will
also take a lot of punishments, also every step we take, we loose some energy. Here’s the
amazing “Enko” running shoe design to give us energy back

The “Enko” running shoe has 2 shock absorber that soaks the energy used in each step then by
spring action that energy is progressively return as where he or she leaves the ground.It helps in 
increasing stamina and making walking and running much easier.

"

src=http://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/images-9.jpeg alt="Top 4 Futuristic Shoe Inventions You Have To See"

width=466 height=316 srcset="https://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/images-9.jpeg 466w,
https://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/images-9-300x203.jpeg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 466px) 100vw, 466px">

289
A setting controls change the dynamic position through walking to running and all point between
the shock obsorber themselves can be inner change provided bases for.

"
src=http://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/images-10.jpeg alt="Top 4 Futuristic Shoe Inventions You Have To See"
width=451 height=326 srcset="https://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/images-10.jpeg 451w,
https://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/images-10-300x217.jpeg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 451px) 100vw, 451px">
“The ENKO running shoes feature an exclusive mechanical cushioning system made of a
patented “double sole”, with more than 50 different parts. These shoes use springs matching the
runner’s bodyweight. Thanks to this radical sole, the ENKO running shoe cushions impacts far
differently than any other shoe in the world. The ENKO running shoes are the only ones in the
world to match runners’ bodyweight.

#1 Smartshoe 001

290
 <

A french company “Digitsole and co-operated with “Zoretech”,has introduced what they called
the world’s first “Smartshoe.” It is a highly innovated shoe that attempts to cover most of the
basics of currents “Smartshoe” development, each pair is supplied with “Zoretech” dual wireless
charging platforms which imply charging system control by the criteria aap. This has several
functions. It can warm your feets by the temprature you set by the app, automatically turning off
the battery when the temprature reached. Also, it has automatic shoe lacing controlled by the
“App” and “Voice.

src=http://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/images-12.jpeg alt="Top 4 Futuristic Shoe Inventions You Have To See"

width=476 height=309 srcset="https://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/images-12.jpeg 476w,
https://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/images-12-300x195.jpeg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 476px) 100vw, 476px">
.

291
src=http://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/images-14.jpeg alt="Top 4 Futuristic Shoe Inventions You Have To See"
width=495 height=297 srcset="https://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/images-14.jpeg 495w,
https://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/images-14-300x180.jpeg 300w" sizes="(max-width: 495px) 100vw, 495px">

_______________
________________________
media-img size-full wp-image-339" src=http://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/inline_c509401c-b4_1039886a.png
alt="Top 4 Futuristic Shoe Inventions You Have To See" width=585 height=600 srcset="https://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-
content/uploads/2018/06/inline_c509401c-b4_1039886a.png 585w, https://exclusiveexpertise.com/wp-
content/uploads/2018/06/inline_c509401c-b4_1039886a-293x300.png 293w" sizes="(max-width: 585px) 100vw, 585px">
_____________________________________________________________________________

These Boots are Made for Walking from 03.10.2004

292
How will future space suits differ from the current ones? Well, for one thing, the boots will be made for
walking.

Astronauts who wear space suits for extra-vehicular activities (EVAs) don't walk. They hover and float,
or their feet are placed into foot restraints so they don't drift away. In the future, however, astronauts may
go to Mars as part of NASA's new vision. And they'll need very different boots to walk on the planet's
surface or drive a rover.

Image to Right: Soft boots are the only footwear needed for
spacewalking. Credit: NASA

Space suits are designed for the atmosphere in which they're used, says
Amy Ross, advanced EVA engineer at NASA's Johnson Space Center
in Houston. Ross and her associates have been hard at work designing
the next generation of space suits, for use on Mars and beyond.

Current space suits are designed for the near-zero-gravity environment

of space outside the Space Shuttle and International Space Station. The suits can bend at the knees, rotate
at the waist and have a hard upper torso made of fiberglass. On a
planet like Mars, where astronauts would be more active, greater
maneuverability is essential.

Image to Left: Spacesuits in the future will be flexible enough to

allow astronauts to kneel and bend. Credit: NASA

A better way to ensure mobility is to put bearings and joints in the

suits. Today's space suits are mostly made of fabric, with a few metal
bearings and joints in the arms and waist. Some of the new designs add
hip, thigh, and ankle bearings for flexibility.

The demands placed on a suit in deeper space would be very different from what astronauts experience in
low-Earth orbit. Astronauts on Mars would face being hit by orbital debris and greater exposure to
radiation. The fabrics used must be able to withstand those conditions.

NASA researchers must find ways to simulate a Mars expedition to

know if a space suit will do the job on the red planet. Some tests take
place in the Arizona deserts, where researchers take pressurized space
suits and try to carry out the activities that might be performed on
Mars. They use a refurbished lunar rover to travel around the
countryside, since they expect Mars missions to also use some sort of
vehicle.

Image to Right: When space walking, astronauts rely on space suits

for comfort and protection. Credit: NASA

Astronauts on Mars may not need to carry all of their tools on their bodies. Currently, astronauts have
mini-workstations attached to their chest area. On Mars, astronauts may store their equipment on a rover,
and might even have a robotic assistant to bring them what they need.

Helmets for use on Mars might also be different. Unlike the current oblong-shaped helmet bubbles,
advanced conceptualized suit helmets are nearly hemispherical, or half globes. If a scratch impairs the
astronaut's vision, the bubble can be rotated to provide clearer viewing. Ross says another option is to

293
cover the clear bubble of the helmet with a sticker-type protective coating. If it gets scratched, astronauts
can peel off the coating and apply a new layer.

Because there are so many unknown factors about a trip to Mars, it's difficult to accurately plan what
work clothes astronauts will need to wear. "If you have all the specifics, it's easy to create a workable
plan," says Ross. "But when you aren't sure of the variables, it's a much greater challenge."
___________________________________________________________________________

Space Shoes HOVERS1010-GRN-STK-1 Regular price $199.95

The Voyager Space Shoes are the next generation of E-mobility, with two skates that are
independent of each other. This groundbreaking design gives the rider more control over their
ride, while also offering a sleeker look. With a max speed of 6.2 MPH and a range of five miles,
these shoes are great for getting to class on time or just freestyling with some friends. The self-
balancing technology makes learning to ride quick and easy, and keeps the rider safe. The low
weight of six pounds per shoe and a convenient carrying strap make it easy to bring your Space
Shoes on the go. LED lights on each skate keeps the rider visible at night. A battery indicator is
located on the top of each skate, making it easy to see when you’re in need of a recharge.

 Max speed of 6.2 MPH

 Range of 5 miles per charge

294
  Self-Balancing technology makes learning to ride easy
 Convenient carrying strap on each skate
 Fun, bright LED lights on each skate\

What are Moon Shoes? Niki Foster

Moon shoes, also known as anti-gravity boots, are a children's toy introduced by Nickelodeon in
the 1990s, when they debuted on the television show Double Dare. Moon shoes are basically
small trampolines for the feet. They simulate the experience of jumping on a regular trampoline
or, with some imagination, the low-gravity environment of the moon. These shoes can help a
child develop balance and coordination while having fun and getting exercise.

Moon shoes simulate the feeling of jumping on a trampoline.

Although moon shoes received some criticism from parents to whom they seemed unsafe, they
pose no significant cause for concern when used as directed. The shoes are made from durable,
high-quality plastic and elastic and feature adjustable straps to fit to each child's regular shoes.
Moon shoes are much safer than a conventional trampoline or even roller skates, and the biggest
risk is probably a minor fall and a skinned knee. They do not allow the user to jump much higher
than normal, but they provide the sensation of increased jumping ability. If you are particularly

295
concerned about the possibility of injury, you may wish to provide your child with knee and
elbow pads while he or she is playing with moon shoes. Supervise your child during play, and
have him or her stay on a soft surface such as grass or a carpet to further avoid scrapes.
They also have non-slip soles to prevent falls. Moon shoes are now available from a variety of
manufacturers in addition to Nickelodeon. They come in many fun colors and a few different
models. Most of these shoes fit teenagers and small to medium sized adults as well, and adults
may enjoy the toy's ability to absorb some of the impact while running. Moon shoes can be the
perfect toy for a child interested in outer space. Children with hyperactivity or sensory
processing disorder can particularly benefit from them, as they provide both a safe outlet for
excess energy and much needed sensory input to the joints and muscles.
(https://www.wisegeek.com/what-are-moon-shoes.htm )

The sneakers inspired by Apollo 11 and the Moon landing

Hypebeasts appreciate space exploration, too.Edgar Alvarez, @abcdedgar .July 20, 2019

Nike
NASA's Apollo 11 has had an outsize influence on our culture since July 20th, 1969. That's the
day the spaceflight mission successfully completed its lunar landing, paving the way for Neil
Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin to become the first humans to ever set foot on the Moon. To this
day, Apollo 11 remains one of the biggest achievements in the history of space exploration. It's
only fitting, then, that those first steps Armstrong and Aldrin took have also made their mark on
sneaker culture.
As we celebrate the 50th anniversary of Apollo 11 this week, we're showing you some of the
best shoes that have drawn inspiration from the mission and its Moon landing. Brands such as

296
Adidas, Nike, New Balance and Vans have all created designs paying homage to this historical
feat, in official and unofficial ways. While there are sneakers that NASA has collaborated on,
others simply look like they were meant to be Moon boots. Let's take a look and appreciate them
one by one.
Nike Air Max Lunar90 SP "Moon Landing"
Five years ago, on July 14th, 2014, Nike introduced what are arguably the best Moon landing-
inspired sneakers to date: the Air Max Lunar 90 SP "USA." The sportswear giant took one of its
most iconic models, the Tinker Hatfield-designed Air Max 90, and donned it with midsole
graphics that mirrored the Moon's surface. To complement that, Nike put two American flag
badges on the back of the shoes, which were designed to represent those found on Neil
Armstrong's space suit.The sneakers became so popular that they now resell for as much as
$1,000, compared to their $145 retail price.Below- pic of Nike PG3 "NASA," "Apollo
Missions" and "NASA 50th"

Aside from his excellent basketball skills, NBA superstar Paul George is known for his
PlayStation-themed Nike sneakers. But video games aren't the only element he's used to deck out
his signature basketball shoes. He also loves space exploration. And since the introduction of his
PG3 this past January, Nike has made him three different sneakers influenced by NASA, Apollo
11 and the lunar landing. The PG3 "NASA" and "Apollo Missions" feature the agency's

297
traditional orange-and-blue colors and American flags, while the "NASA 50th" has an all-silver,
reflective upper with NASA and Apollo 11 badges throughout.
While they each look different in terms of color, they do have a couple of things in common.
One is a quote from Paul George that reads, "Don't tell me the sky's the limit when there are
footprints on the Moon," and the other is that the outsoles all have details meant to resemble
lunar footprints. Below Picture of---Adidas NMD HU Trail "CLOUDS MOON"

Unlike the NASA sneakers Nike made for Paul George, these Adidas NMD Hu Trail "CLOUDS
MOON" aren't an official collaboration with the space agency. Still, nothing says lunar
inspiration more than having the word "MOON" plastered across an entire shoe. Beyond that, the
pair features a black-and-grey color scheme that's reminiscent of the Moon. And in case you had
any doubt where the design cues for these NMD Hu Trails came from, just know that their
designer, Pharrell Williams, is part of NASA's festivities for the 50th anniversary of its historic
Moon landing today.

298
The "MOS NB 574" sneakers are right up there with Nike's Lunar90 SPs for the title of Best
Moon Landing Sneakers. For these, New Balance partnered with clothing store Ministry of
Supply on a pair that takes plenty of visual cues from the Apollo 11 lunar mission. The
companies said the idea was to "take advantage of the radically engineered technologies that
power our clothing to take a small step forward in sneaker design." That's why you'll see a grey
silhouette made out of "Lunar suede" that's intended to represent the way Neil Armstrong
described the surface of the Moon: "Fine and powdery... like powdered charcoal."
Better yet, the MOS NB 574 shoes (which launched last year) came in a sealed packaging that
automatically makes you think of those freeze-dried astronaut meals.Below Pic of Vans x NASA
SK8-Hi "Space Voyager Black"

You can't talk about sneakers without mentioning Vans. And to honor Apollo 11, the brand
created a special edition of its high-top SK8-Hi sneakers, featuring an all-black leather upper
299
with patches paying homage to NASA, the Apollo 11 mission and astronauts who walked on the
Moon during the expedition. Vans took it a step further by making an entire collection out of its
"Space Voyager" theme, which had sneakers, apparel and accessories with appreciation to the
Voyager 1 and 2 outer planetary space missions.Pic of Mercer "W3RD NASA Apollo 11"

Mercer Amsterdam may not have the same brand recognition as Adidas, Nike, New Balance or
Vans, but the brand came up with one of the sleekest Moon landing-themed sneakers. The
"W3RD NASA Apollo 11s" were designed with Armstrong and Aldrin's space suits in mind, as
shown by the white, blue and red accents that made the shoes feel vibrant. Those details were
complemented by a small NASA logo on the upper, along with a silver mesh fabric that ran all
across the sneakers. But the best part may just be the subtle coordinates written near the toe box,
28.5729° N, 80.6490° W, which point to Kennedy Space Center -- the launch site for Apollo 11.
So, so lovely. Pic of Adidas Kobe Two "space Moon boots"

300
The Adidas Kobe Two, which were designed for former NBA superstar Kobe Bryant, had
nothing to do with NASA or Apollo 11. Well, aside from the fact they became known as the
"space Moon boots" among sneakerheads, due to their chunky, futuristic and silver-colored
nature. Out of all the models we've talked about so far, these are definitely the ugliest ones of the
bunch. And yet, somehow the simple fact that they became the Kobe "space Moon boots" makes
them interesting. That shows you the cultural pull of NASA, Apollo 11 and, of course, the Moon.
Maybe Adidas should bring them back and see what happens.Pic of- General Electric "The
Missions"

In 2014, General Electric decided to honor Apollo 11 with "The Missions," a pair of limited-
edition, high-top sneakers that could easily pass off as Moon boots. GE played a key role in
NASA's 1969 lunar expedition, and the company wanted to commemorate its contributions with
gray-colored shoes that had a translucent, thermoplastic sole. According to GE, The Missions
featured materials made from the same lightweight carbon fiber that was used in "bad ass" jet
engines, as well as a hydrophobic coating akin to the one that keeps wind turbine blades from
freezing in cold temperatures. Below-pic of Nike "Moon Shoes"

301
To celebrate the 45th anniversary of the Apollo 11 Moon landing, GE created only 100 pairs,
which were sold for about $200 each. If what you wanted were high-tech, Moon-inspired
sneakers, The Missions are it.

And the pièce de résistance goes to Nike's "Moon Shoes," which were created in 1969 by the
company's legendary co-founder Bill Bowerman. Nike says that the sneakers got their name
thanks to the distinctive marks they left in dirt, which is said to resemble the footprints made
famous by Armstrong and Aldrin when they took their first steps on the Moon. That imprint was
a result of a now-iconic waffle iron-inspired outsole pattern, which was invented by Bowerman
the same year as the Apollo 11 mission. Not only was this the first shoe to sport the technology,
but it was Nike's first-ever shoe as a brand.
There are only about 12 of these in existence, and their cultural significance is so deep that a pair
is expected to collect more than $100,000 in a Sotheby's auction. The starting bid is only
$80,000, if you're looking to own a piece of Nike (and Moon) history.

302
 CHAPTER 11

The History of Roller Skates

Young man on the Edvard Petrini's pedaled roller skates, [1] known as Takypod in Sweden, circa 1910

An overview of the evolution of dry land skating aka roller skates.

Early 1700s - Skeelers

In Holland, an unknown Dutchman decided to go ice skating in the summer, ice skating was the
widespread method used in the Netherlands to travel the numerous frozen canals in winter. The
unknown inventor accomplished dry land skating by nailing wooden spools to strips of wood and
attaching them to his shoes. 'Skeelers' was the nickname given to the new dry-land skaters.

1760 - Crashing the Masquerade Party

A London instrument maker and inventor, Joseph Merlin, attended a masquerade party wearing
one of his new inventions, metal-wheeled boots. Joseph desiring to make a grand entrance added

303
the pizzazz of rolling in while playing the violin. Lining the huge ballroom was a very expensive
wall-length mirror. The fiddling skater stood no chance and Merlin crashed solidly into the
mirrored wall, as his roller skates crashed into society.

1818 - Roller Ballet

In Berlin, roller skates made a more graceful entrance into society, with the premier of the
German ballet Der Maler oder die Wintervergn Ugungen (The Artist or Winter Pleasures). The
ballet called for ice-skating but because it was impossible at that time to produce ice on a stage,
roller skates substituted.

1819 - First Patent

In France, the first patent for a roller skate issued to a Monsieur Petibledin. The skate was made
of a wood sole that attached to the bottom of a boot, fitted with two to four rollers made of
copper, wood or ivory, and arranged in a straight single line.

1823 - The Rolito

Robert John Tyers of London patented a skate called the Rolito with five wheels in a single row
on the bottom of a shoe or boot. The Rolito was unable to follow a curved path, unlike the in-line
skates of today.

1840 - Barmaids on Wheels

In a beer tavern known as Corse Halle, near Berlin, barmaids on roller skates served thirsty
patrons. This was a practical decision, given the size of beer halls in Germany, which gave dry
land skating a publicity boost.

1857 - Public Rinks

Huge public rinks opened in the Floral Hall and in the Strand of London.

1863 - Inventor James Plimpton

American, James Plimpton found a way to make a very useable pair of skates. Plimpton's skates
had two parallel sets of wheels, one pair under the ball of the foot and the other pair under the
heel. The four wheels were made of boxwood and worked on rubber springs. Plimpton's design
was the first dry-land skate that could maneuver in a smooth curve. This considered the birth of
the modern four-wheeled roller skates, which allowed for turns and the ability to skate
backwards.

1884 - Pin Ball-Bearing Wheels

The invention of pin ball-bearing wheels made rolling easier and skates lighter.

304
1902 - The Coliseum

The Coliseum in Chicago opened a public skating rink. Over 7,000 people attended the opening
night.

1908 - Madison Square Gardens

Madison Square Gardens in New York became a skating rink. Hundreds of rink openings in the
United States and Europe followed. The sport was becoming very popular and various versions
of the roller skating developed: recreational skating on indoor and outdoor rinks, polo skating,
ballroom roller dancing and competitive speed skating.

1960s - Plastics

Technology (with the advent of new plastics) helped the wheel truly come of age with new
designs.

70s & 80s - Disco

A second big skating boom occurred with the marriage of disco and roller-skating. Over 4,000
roller-discos were in operation and Hollywood began making roller-movies.

1979 - Redesigning Roller Skates

Scott Olson and Brennan Olson, brothers and hockey players who lived in Minneapolis,
Minnesota, found an antique pair of roller skates. It was one of the early skates that used the in-
line wheels rather than the four-wheeled parallel design of George Plimpton. Intrigued by the in-
line design, the brothers began redesigning roller skates, taking design elements from the found
skates and using modern materials. They used polyurethane wheels, attached the skates to ice
hockey boots, and added a rubber toe-brake to their new design.

1983 - Rollerblade Inc

Scott Olson founded Rollerblade Inc and the term rollerblading meant the sport of in-line skating
because Rollerblade Inc was the only manufacturer of in-line skates for a long time.

The first mass-produced rollerblades, while innovative had some design flaws: they were
difficult to put on and adjust, prone to collecting dirt and moisture in the ball-bearings, the
wheels were easily damaged and the brakes came from the old roller skate toe-brake and were
not very effective.

Rollerblade Inc Sold

The Olson brothers sold Rollerblade Inc and the new owners had the money to really improve
the design. The first massively successful Rollerblade skate was the Lightning TRS. In this pair
of skates the flaws had vanished, fiberglass was used to produce the frames, the wheels were

305
better protected, the skates were easier to put on and adjust and stronger brakes were placed at
the rear. With the success of the Lightning TRS, other in-line skate companies appeared: Ultra
Wheels, Oxygen, K2 and others.

1989 - Macro and Aeroblades Models

Rollerblade Inc produced the Macro and Aeroblades models, the first skates fastened with three
buckles instead of long laces that needed threading.

1990 - Lighter Skates

Rollerblade Inc switched to a glass-reinforced thermoplastic resin (durethan polyamide) for their

skates, replacing the polyurethane compounds previously used. This decreased the average
weight of skates by nearly fifty percent.

1993 - Active Brake Technology

Rollerblade, Inc. developed ABT or Active Brake Technology. A fiberglass post attached at one
end to the top of the boot and at the other end to a rubber-brake, hinged the chassis at the back
wheel. The skater had to straighten one leg to stop, driving the post into the brake, which then hit
the ground. Skaters had been tilting their foot back to make contact with the ground, before
ABT. The new brake design increased safety.

Presently the best way for you to experience the latest inventions in the world of
wheels is up-close and personal. Please do so, try in-line skating and keep rolling.

Roller skating is the traveling on surfaces with roller skates. It is a form of recreational activity
as well as a sport, and can also be a form of transportation. In fact, as the United States readied
for World War II, the government entertained the notion to add roller skates as essential
equipment to move infantry around Europe to save gas. Skates generally come in three basic
varieties: quad roller skates, inline skates or blades and tri-skates, though some have
experimented with a single-wheeled "quintessence skate" or other variations on the basic skate
design. In America, this hobby was most popular first between 1935 and the early 1960s and
then in the 1970s, when polyurethane wheels were created and disco music oriented roller rinks
were the rage and then again in the 1990s when in-line outdoor roller skating, thanks to the
improvement made to inline roller skates in 1981 by Scott Olson, took hold.

306
Roller skating has had a checkered past over its nearly-three century history. Given its ebb and
flow of popularity over the past century, writers labeled each generation's attraction a "craze!"
The caption in a 1904 Decatur newspaper read, "Old Craze Comes Back," adding, "Roller
skating promises to be as popular as it was twenty years ago." Reported on 11 October 1904, the
statement announced the opening events of a new Decatur, Illinois roller rink. [2] In 1906, with the
opening of another Chicago rink, the Inter Ocean newspaper complained that "after twenty years
of exemption from the affliction the desire to roll is again taking possession of American
adults...the mania has struck Chicago!" Today, the acceptance for roller skating is not unlike a
waning moon but the sport persists. Roller skating continues to thrive as a part of pop culture in
the form of recreation for leisure, dance and sport. Rollers, past and present are diehards.

An advert for an early 20th-century model which fit over ordinary shoes

During the late 1980s and early 1990s, the Rollerblade-branded skates became so successful that
they inspired many other companies to create similar inline skates, and the inline design became
more popular than the traditional quads. The Rollerblade skates became synonymous in the
minds of many with "inline skates" and skating, so much so that many people came to call any
form of skating "Rollerblading," thus making it a genericized trademark.

For much of the 1980s and into the 1990s, inline skate models typically sold for general public
use employed a hard plastic boot, similar to ski boots. In or about 1995, "soft boot" designs were
introduced to the market, primarily by the sporting goods firm K2 Inc., and promoted for use as
fitness skates. Other companies quickly followed, and by the early 2000s the development of
hard shell skates and skeletons became primarily limited to the Aggressive inline skating
discipline and other specialized designs.

307
The single-wheel "quintessence skate" was made in 1988 by Miyshael F. Gailson of Caples Lake
Resort, California, for the purpose of cross-country skate skiing and telemark skiing training.
Other experimental skate designs the years have included two wheeled (heel and toe) inline skate
frames but the vast majority of skates on the market today are either quad or standard inline
design.

Artistic roller skating

Stopless quad skate plates

Artistic roller skating is a sport which consists of a number of events. These are usually
accomplished on quad skates, but inline skates may be used for some events. Various flights of
events are organized by age and ability/experience. In the US, local competitions lead to 9
regional competitions which led to the National Championships and World Championships.
1. Figures
A prescribed movement symmetrically composed of at least two circles, but not more
than three circles, involving primary, or primary and secondary movements, with or
without turns. Figures are skated on circles, which have been inscribed on the skating
surface.[16][17]

308
2. Dance
In competition skaters can enter more than one event;
Solo Dance; solo dance a competition starts at tiny tot and goes up to golden, for a test it
starts with bronze and goes up to gold. You do not have to take tests anymore to skate in
harder categories, you must have a couple of tests once you get to a certain event, though.
In competition, these dances are set patterns and the judges give you marks for good
edges, how neat they look and how well they do turns, etc.
Team Dance; this is where two people skate together doing the set dances. Most people
skate with a partner the same ability and age.
Skaters are judged by the accuracy of steps that they skate when performing a particular
dance. In addition to being judged on their edges and turns, skaters must carry themselves
in an elegant manner while paying careful attention to the rhythm and timing of the
music.
3. Freestyle
Freestyle roller dancing is a style of physical movement, usually done to music, that is
not choreographed or planned ahead of time. It occurs in many genres, including those
where people dance with partners. By definition, this kind of dance is never the same
from performance to performance, although it can be done formally and informally,
sometimes using some sparse choreography as a very loose outline for the improvisation.
4. Precision teams
A team of skaters (usually counted in multiples of four) creates various patterns and
movements to music. Often used elements include skating in a line, skating in a box,
"splicing" (subgroups skating towards each other such that they do not contact each
other), and skating in a circle. The team is judged on its choreography and the ability to
skate together precisely, and jumps and spins are not as important. In this category, they
are classified as "small groups" (6 to 15 people) or "big groups" (16 to 30 skaters). These
show groups are also divided due to the level and ages.
5. Singles and pairs
A single skater or a pair of skaters present routines to music. They are judged on skating
ability and creativity. Jumps, spins and turns are expected in these events. Sometimes
with a pair or couple skaters slow music will play, and usually it is two songs.

309
6. Speed skating
Speed skating originally started on traditional roller skates, quads or four wheels per
skate. The first organized, national competition was held in 1938 in Detroit Michigan at
the Arena Gardens Roller Rink, once home of "Detroit's Premier Sports Palace. The
Arena opened in 1935 as roller skating began its ascension as a top sport.[6] In the early
years, competitors representing the mid-west states, primarily Illinois, Indiana, Michigan
and Ohio dominated the sport. By 1950 as rinks hired speed skating coaches who trained
competitors, the east and west coast began to compete effectively for the national titles.
As rules were established for state and national competitions, the speed skating season
began in fall and continued through spring leading up to a state tournament. Eventually
approximately 1947, due to the growth of speed skating, the top three places at a state
tournament would qualify skaters for a regional tournament. The top three places at
regional tournaments then went on to compete at a national tournament. Skaters could
qualify as individuals or as part of a two-person or four-person (relay) team. Qualification
at regional events could warrant an invite to the Olympic Training Center in Colorado
Springs, CO for a one-week training session on their outdoor velodrome. Inline speed
skating is a competitive non-contact sport on inline skates. Variants include indoor, track
and road racing, with many different grades of skaters, so the whole family can compete.
7. Group skating
Among skaters not committed to a particular discipline, a popular social activity is the
group skate or street skate, in which large groups of skaters regularly meet to skate
together, usually on city streets. One such group is the San Francisco Midnight Rollers.
In 1989 the small 15-20 group that became the Midnight Rollers explored the closed
doubIe-decker Embarcadero Freeway after the Loma-Prieta earthquake until it was torn
down. At which point the new route was created settling on Friday nights at 9 pm from
the San Francisco Ferry Building circling 12 miles around the city back at midnight to the
start. Although such touring existed among quad roller skate clubs in the 1970s and
1980s, it made the jump to inline skates in 1990 with groups in large cities throughout the
United States. In some cases, hundreds of skaters would regularly participate, resembling
a rolling party. In the late 1990s, the group skate phenomenon spread to Europe and east
Asia. The weekly Friday night skate in Paris, France (called Pari Roller [23]) is believed to

310
 be one of the largest repeating group skates in the world. At times, it has had as many as
35,000 skaters participating on the boulevards of Paris, on a single night. The Sunday
Skate Night in Berlin also attracts over 10,000 skaters during the summer, and
Copenhagen, Munich, Frankfurt, Amsterdam, Buenos Aires, London, San Francisco, Los
Angeles, New York, and Tokyo host other popular events. Charity skates in Paris have
attracted 50,000 participants (the yearly Paris-Versailles skate). The current Official
Guinness World Record holder is Nightskating Warszawa (Poland) in number of 4013
participants from 19 June 2014, but their real record from 25 April 2015 is 7303
participants and over 38 000 skaters total in 10 events in season 2015.
8. Aggressive inline
Aggressive inline skating is trick-based skating. This is where the individual performs
tricks using a slightly different skate to normal. The skate has a grind block in between
two wheels and the various companies have designed the boots to take these extra strains.
Also the wheels have a flat large contact surface for grip.
Aggressive inline can either take place at a skate park or on the street. Typically
predominantly grinds but also air tricks such as spins and flips.

9. Roller hockey
Roller hockey is the overarching name for a rollersport that existed long before inline
skates were invented, and thus has various names. Quad skate roller hockey has been
played in many countries worldwide, and was a demonstration rollersport in the 1992
Summer Olympics in Barcelona. Other variations include skater hockey, played with a
plastic ball, and inline hockey.
10. Roller derby
Roller derby is a team sport played on roller skates on an oval track. Originally a
trademarked product developed out of speed skating demonstrations, the sport underwent
a revival in the early 2000s as a grass-roots-driven, five-a-side sport played mainly by
women.[25] Most roller derby leagues adopt the rules and guidelines set by the Women's
Flat Track Derby Association or its open gender counterpart, Men's Roller Derby
Association, but there are leagues that play on a banked track, as the sport was originally
played from the 1930s.
11. Aggressive roller skating

311
Standard roller skate (quad) trucks compared to 3 inch wide skate board (Penny) trucks (bottom).
Otherwise known as "park skating", popularized by CIB (fka Chicks in Bowls [26]) and Moxi
Roller Skates, this form of roller skating involves performing tricks and airs in mini ramps,
street, vert, and bowls. Any roller skate can be used for park skating though many skaters prefer
a higher-ankle boot over speed style boot. Additional modifications to traditional rollers skates
include the addition of a plastic block between the front and rear trucks commonly called slide
blocks or grind blocks. The front and rear trucks can also be modified to use a 3-inch wide truck
to allow for different tricks.
Show & Tell
Vintage Roller Skates

Vintage Mayfair 70s Disco Roller Skates Unisex Mens Siz…Vintage Mayfair 70s Disco Roller Skates…
Vintage White Leather CHICAGO Roller Skates w/ WOODEN W…Vintage White Leather CHICAGO Roller
Roller Skates; Vintage 1980, Size 7Roller Skates; Vintage 1980, Size 7

312
Vintage Riedell 220 Black Leather Skate Boot Size 9 WVintage Riedell 220 Black Leather Skate…
Women Vintage Leather Roller Skate by Riedell pro-lite…Women Vintage Leather Roller Skate by Ri…
SKECHERS 4 WHEELER ROLLER SKATES Women's Size 6 Der…SKECHERS 4 WHEELER ROLLER SKATES
Women&#…

Riedell Vintage Roller Skate Boot 220 White Sz 9 1/2 Ol…Riedell Vintage Roller Skate Boot 220 Wh…
Vintage Rock Skates Mens Size 9-Black GT-50 EditionVintage Rock Skates Mens Size 9-Black GT…
Vintage Sure Grip - Century Roller Skates Size 12 Riede…Vintage Sure Grip - Century Roller Skate…

313
Chicago Skates Women's Classic Quad Roller Skates S…Chicago Skates Women's Classic Quad…
Vintage 70's Rector Skatewear Skate Leather GlovesVintage 70's Rector Skatewear Skate…

RARE Vintage Hot Rollers Skates, Lightning Bolt, Moon E…RARE Vintage Hot Rollers Skates, Lightni…
Vintage Famolare Roller Skates/Sandals Sz9 - Italy - Bl…Vintage Famolare Roller Skates/Sandals S…
Vintage White ROLLER DERBY STAR SKATES ROLLER DERBY Sz 6Vintage White ROLLER DERBY STAR
SKATES R…

314
 The History of Foot Binding in China

For centuries, young girls in China were subjected to an extremely painful and debilitating
procedure called foot binding. Their feet were bound tightly with cloth strips, with the toes bent
down under the sole of the foot, and the foot tied front-to-back so that the grew into an
exaggerated high curve. The ideal adult female foot would be only three to four inches in length.
These tiny, deformed feet were known as "lotus feet."

The fashion for bound feet began in the upper classes of Han Chinese society, but it spread to all
but the poorest families. Having a daughter with bound feet signified that the family was wealthy
enough to forgo having her work in the fields—women with their feet bound could not walk well
enough to do any sort of labor that involved standing for any length of time. Because bound feet
were considered beautiful, and because they signified relative wealth, girls with "lotus feet" were
more likely to marry well. As a result, even some farming families that could not really afford to
lose a child's labor would bind their eldest daughters' feet in hopes of attracting rich husbands.

Origins of Foot Binding

Various myths and folktales relate to the origin of foot-binding in China. In one version, the
practice goes back to the earliest documented dynasty, the Shang Dynasty (c. 1600 BCE–1046
BCE). Supposedly, the corrupt last emperor of the Shang, King Zhou, had a favorite concubine
named Daji who was born with clubfoot. According to the legend, the sadistic Daji ordered court
ladies to bind their daughters' feet so that they would be tiny and beautiful like her own. Since
Daji was later discredited and executed, and the Shang Dynasty soon fell, it seems unlikely that
her practices would have survived her by 3,000 years.

A somewhat more plausible story states that the emperor Li Yu (reign 961–976 CE) of the
Southern Tang Dynasty had a concubine named Yao Niang who performed a "lotus dance,"
similar to en pointe ballet. She bound her feet into a crescent shape with strips of white silk

315
before dancing, and her grace inspired other courtesans and upper-class women to follow suit.
Soon, girls of six to eight years had their feet bound into permanent crescents.

How Foot Binding Spread

During the Song Dynasty (960 - 1279), foot-binding became an established custom and spread
throughout eastern China. Soon, every ethnic Han Chinese woman of any social standing was
expected to have lotus feet. Beautifully embroidered and jeweled shoes for bound feet became
popular, and men sometimes drank wine from women's footwear.

When the Mongols overthrew the Song and established the Yuan Dynasty in 1279, they adopted
many Chinese traditions—but not foot-binding. The far more politically influential and
independent Mongol women were completely uninterested in permanently disabling their
daughters to conform with Chinese standards of beauty. Thus, women's feet became an instant
marker of ethnic identity, differentiating Han Chinese from Mongol women.

The same would be true when the ethnic Manchus conquered Ming China in 1644 and
established the Qing Dynasty (1644–1912). Manchu women were legally barred from binding
their feet. Yet the tradition continued strong among their Han subjects. 

Banning the Practice

In the latter half of the nineteenth century, western missionaries and Chinese feminists began to
call for an end to foot-binding. Chinese thinkers influenced by Social Darwinism fretted that
disabled women would produce feeble sons, endangering the Chinese as a people. To appease
the foreigners, the Manchu Empress Dowager Cixi outlawed the practice in a 1902 edict,
following the failure of the anti-foreigner Boxer Rebellion. This ban was soon repealed.

When the Qing Dynasty fell in 1911 and 1912, the new Nationalist government banned foot-
binding again. The ban was reasonably effective in the coastal cities, but foot-binding continued
unabated in much of the countryside. The practice wasn't more or less completely stamped out
until the Communists finally won the Chinese Civil War in 1949. Mao Zedong and his
government treated women as much more equal partners in the revolution and immediately
outlawed foot-binding throughout the country because it significantly diminished women's value
as workers. This was despite the fact that several women with bound feet had made the Long
March with the Communist troops, walking 4,000 miles through rugged terrain and fording
rivers on their deformed, 3-inch long feet.

Of course, when Mao issued the ban there were already hundreds of millions of women with
bound feet in China. As the decades have passed, there are fewer and fewer. Today, there are
only a handful of women living out in the countryside in their 90s or older who still have bound
feet.

316
 ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Disha, born in a medical practitioner’s family, was always interested in Design and her parents
Dr. Archana and Dr.Virendra encouraged her to pursue her interes.Her father, a surgeon
remembers how she excelled in drawing competitions as well as studies. Disha won many
competitions in arts in school and college and some scholarships in studies too. Currently
working in ADIDAS she is following her passion.

Having contributed numerous research Papers to a number of journals such as researchgate.net

and academia.edu, this book is a collection of some of these essays and research material
presented in a readable and entertaining form. But as she says,” there is more to come”

Masters in Fashion Management, National Institute of Fashion Technology, India

Bachelor of Arts(Hons.) Economics, University of Punjab
Category Manager-Brand ADIDAS

317
 INDEX
Acknowledgment 10 History of Boot 45 Silver Street 27
Adolf Ressels 67 History of the Shoe 245, Stores 69
Anatomy of a shoe 238 Sole 201 Structural reform 185
Ancient Footwear 76 IBEF 154 Steel Toe 42
Agasthya 78 Impact on Consumption 251 Storm Troopers 60
Ajanta 109 Insole 35 Spinney & Co.27
Ankle Guards 44 Industrial Era 64 Size 53
Antiquity 21 Introduction 13 Sewing Machine 65,66
About the author 308 Index 309 Shoe Horn 54
Ancient Greece 22 Indian Cobbler 72 Shoe lace 54, 198
Anatomy 35 Industrial Era 26 Shoe stretcher 54
Armadillo 136 Innovations 31 Shoe insert 54
Ashwamedh 146-49 Ian's Secure Shoelace Knot used Shoe bag 53
Athletic 38 on a pair of safety boots208 Sita 4
Attitudes 185 Jacket manuf. process 172 Spiked Padukas 84
Balasaheb Pant pratinidhi 106 Jackets history 160,170 Straight-bar lacing
Balley points 136 Jackets trim and clean 170 Tanzanian gogo 115
Barefoot 41,86,95 Jazz Shoes 51 Tango 51
Bass G.H. 68 Jewellery 92 Tamil Women 52
Bharat 121Biker 178-9 Jataka Tales 93 Trivia 83
Boot 43 Jimmy Choo 57 Toe Rings 85
Boot Camp 59 Joanne of Arc 73 Toe (or Toecap): 37
Boot Strapping 59 Jutti 126,151 Toe Box 37
Bower 58 Kanpur Hide market 155 To die with one’s boots on 59
Brush 53 Katha Sarita sagara 12 Tongue 35
Buddhism 88 Knocking Boots 60 The sneakers inspired by Apollo
Buddha 109 Krishna 91 11 and the Moon landing 287
Bronze Shoe memorial 34 Kutch The History of Roller Skates 294
Can Togey 334 Laxman 7 Turn shoes 63
Cat Woman 74 Kolhapuri 130 Type of Boots 57
Cobbler,Cobbler 71 Lepushki 108 Type of Shoe 38
Common bow 206 Lotus at the feet 87 Types of Modern Outsoles 248
Changing dynamics 186 Laces 200 Tying shoelaces 206
Choice 257 Length 206 Tata Exports Ltd 13,33
Christian Lauboutin 67 Leaker shoes 150 TELCO 13
Clarosauso 45 Leather 150 Tveranger , Nils Gregoriusson 67
Cleopatra 22 Leather Sandals 165 U.S.A. garment Industry 163
Clog 50 Leather inputs 150 Unisex 50
Clustering 185 Lacing 207 Upper 36
Chappal 3, 141 leather 271 Uday Dokras 16
Common lacing methods 209 Leather Industry in India 181 Upper:  239
Cowboy 44 London Hanged 71 Use of footware 106
Criss-cross lacing Luxury 195 Venaration 9,11
Chapter Upper and sole of shoes Mens 48 Vamp: 37
238 Mendonza 59 Vedas 106

318
Collar: 239 Mierevelt Michel Van 199 Voyager 285
Counter: 239 Milind Soman 41 Vedanta desika 103
Conservation of Energy 177 Milestone 197 Valmiki Ramayan 104-5
Maintenance257 VEGAN LEATHER 261
Chuck Taylor 40 Midsole:  Vegan leather CHAPTER 9
COVID times 250 Middle ages 24 Vegan Leather or Pleather or
Consumer 193 Moroccon Cobbler 72 Leaderette 255
Converse All Star 40 Mojhari 128,151Manufacture255 Velcro211
Cow is food 142 Manufacturing Process 202,190 Veste de Cuir 157
Chapter 4 157 Markets 191, 194 Vest 157Victorian garment
Chapter 5 181 Domestic footware 193 Industry 160
Chapter 6 198 Moon shoes 286 Vishnupada 115
Chapter 8 Puss N Boots and Napoleon 47 Vedanta Swami desikan 117
COVID times 250 Narsimha 91 Van Gogh 198
Chapter 10 279 NASA 284 Warangal 100
CHAPTER 11 New Rock Boots 60 Westmoreland 9
Chopine 136 Norway 67 Wooden Sole 63
Cindrella 18 Orissa State Museum 99 Woolman Richard 64
Crispin 9 Outsole: 36 World War 2 69
Crispinian 9 Other alternatives 277 Wali- death of 225
Custom Leather jacket 171 Old woman is Shoe 25 Yajurveda 148
Dance 51 Orthopedic shoes 52
David Hockney 61,62 Over shoe 53
Deubré on a NIKE Air Force 1 Okobo 135
sneaker. 210 Osho Chappal 133
Difference 258 Other lacing methods 205
Dedication 7 Paduka 99 ,101,110
Dilemma of the Shoe 141 Paduka Sahasram 117
Doc Martens 58 Paduka guru 118
Dogra Akkar 70 Paduka poojan 118
Dokras,Uday 16 Platform heels 134
David Gardiner 27 Paul Sperry 69
Dearly modern period 24 Paduka stotrum 77
Dress and Casual 48 Primitive footware 20PVC and
Dyaneshwar 114 PUC 267
Economic Times 253 Patron Saint 9
Energuy Conservation 177 Penny Loafers 69
Exports 186 Peter Linebaugh 71
Export and Import 154Fashion Plant based vegan Ethics 258
Fetish 58 Pointers 52
Fashion in Ancient India 81 Pool and Steps 60
Fashion Boot Terminology 57 Pollution Control 177
Foot Binding in China 306 Puss in Boots 11,55
Footwear Industry 62 8 Puss N Boots and COVID times
Footwear consumption to decline 250
22.5% in 2020 251 Pula Chappal 131
Footware fashion 20 Practical tips in shoe buying 13
Footware jewellery 95 QC 203,174,176( Standards)
Foot Thongs 52 Quarter: 240
Foam tap 53 Rajput 145
Ford motor Co. 32 Ram Gopal Varma 98

319
Form and Function 47 Ramappa Temple 100
Francesco Rempichini 66 Ramalingeshwar Temple 100
Futuristic shoes Ramayana 102
Faversham 9 Ravana 4
Foot climate 16 Raymon Levin 66
Footwear styling 184 Ravi Dossi 66
Future is here 279 Reconciling 141
Ganesh with riddhi & siddhi 98 Readty to wear 164
Garamur Sutra 100 Regal 27
Gau 143 Richard Woodman 64
Geoff Maines 165 Rig Veda 78
Gommenteshwar 8 Romans 23
Goodyear welted 62 Saint 9
Griha Pravesh 85 Sankrya likhita 79
Goya 84 Shailabalika 107
Gupta period 110 Shantiniketan Footwear
Head Grip 53 128,129,157
Heel 36 Sun Temple Gujarat 109
Henry Nelson 42 Surya 130
Heraldry 69 Sandals 112
High fashion 178 Rubber Sole 39
History of footware 17 Riding Boots 63
High Hells 48,49 Satchitanand Utsav 119
How to Hide Shoelaces 231 Salvatore Capazio 66
HOW IS VEGAN LEATHER Salvatore Ferragano 67
MADE 261 Shakespeare 10
Shoelace tipping machine. B.

320
 My Best Foot Forward

Collection of Essays by DISHA GOPAL

Masters in Fashion Management, National Institute of Fashion Technology, India
Bachelor of Arts(Hons.) Economics, University of Punjab

321