Fire-Retardant Finishing

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Simultaneous Dyeing and Fire-retardant Finishing of Jute Fabric Using an

Acid Dye and Selective F - R Finishing Chemicals
Article in Textiles and Light Industrial Science and Technology · January 2015

DOI: 10.12783/tlist.2015.0401.01
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Simultaneous Dyeing and Fire-retardant
Finishing of Jute Fabric Using an Acid Dye
and Selective F-R Finishing Chemicals
A K Samanta 1, Kashmita Bhattacharya2
University of Calcutta, Dept. of Jute and Fibre Technology
ijtaksamanta@hotmail.com1, kashmita.bh@gmail.com2
Abstract
Conventionally decorative quality jute furnishing fabrics are dyed and then chemically finished as per functional requirement
by two step sequential process. An attempt has been made to combine these two step process into a single step process by
developing simultaneous (combined) dyeing (acid dyeing) and fire-retardant finishing process in one step by pad-dry-cure
method. H2O2 bleached jute fabric has been dyed with selective acid dyes (1%) and chemically finished with different
concentrations of Ortho-Phosphoric Acid, Ammonium sulphamate and Di-ammonium phosphate for fire retardant finish, by
both conventional two-step sequential process and single-step simultaneous process by pad-dry-cure technique. One-step
simultaneous application of Ortho-Phosphoric Acid, Ammonium sulphamate and Di-ammonium phosphate along with 1% acid
dye on H2O2 bleached jute fabric shows an improvement in the surface colour strength compared to that of ordinary H2O2
bleached jute fabric when separately dyed with 1% acid dye and subsequently finished the same fire retardant agent. Both the
process two stage conventional acid dyeing and fire-retardant finish and single stage simultaneous pad-dry-cure process of acid
dyeing and fire retardant finish, show at par fire retardant performance. This single bath technique thus offers advantages of
reduction in processing cost, saving in energy and reduction in time of treatments as well as better colour value and at per fire
retardant performance.
Keywords
Acid Dye; Ammonium Sulphamate; Dyeing; Di-ammonium Phosphate; Fire Retardant Finishing; Jute Fabric; Ortho-phosphoric Acid;
Simultaneous Dyeing and Finishing
Introduction
Jute and jute based fabrics are gaining popularity as different decorative products for home textiles (furnishing ,
upholstery floor mats, shopping bags etc.) in the domestic and international field due to its eco-friendliness and
biodegradability character. Chemically, jute is lignocellulosic and physically it is a coarser variety of natural bast
fibre which is agro renewable. India’s major production of jute goods is limited to conventional jute yarn and fabric
products used in either packaging or carpet backing etc.; however there is an increasing demand of dyed variety of
decorative jute fabrics. From market survey and need assessment made by this department, it is revealed that
grey/bleached and dyed jute fabrics having requisite fire-retardant have good market demand as coarser variety of
fire retardant textiles for protection against fire in variety of end uses like car upholstery/accessories, kitchen apron
and gloves, furnishing/curtains and floor coverings of public hall/theatre, fire-retardant Tenting and as brattice
clothes in mines etc. For these applications, production of jute decorative fabrics or products with attractive colours
and fire retardant finishes is important. The technical problems of the conventional exhaust process of dyeing
(using dye-bath vat or jigger machine) is laborious , higher energy and time consuming and also it requires much
higher water consumption both for dyeing and also in washing (for removing un-fixed dyes). Both dyeing and
finishing of jute require a lot of fuel and energy in the form of steam, manpower and electricity. In this age of fuel
and energy crisis, it is desirable to develop such process formulations which would result in reduction of process
steps by way of combining two or three steps together into one step requiring lower energy, water and time
consumption for achieving reduced process cost. Therefore, appropriate combination of multi-step processes a
single-step process for both dyeing and specific chemical finishing for any textiles assumes high importance. Some
earlier reports are available in literature [1,2,24,25] on single-step combined dyeing and resin finishing of jute
based fabrics, and on simultaneous dyeing and easy care crease resistant finishing for cotton and its blends
Textiles and Light Industrial Science and Technology, Vol. 4, No. 1—June 2015 1
2304-9421/15/01 001-16 © 2015 DEStech Publications, Inc.
doi: 10.12783/tlist.2015.0401.01
2 A K Samanta, Kashmita Bhattacharya
[21,22,23] . Fire retardant finishing of textiles with different fire-retardant agents and corresponding mechanism,
theory and application procedure etc are available in review by Horrocks [10] .Some detail of further research work
[3,4,5,30,31,32,33] on fire-retardant finishing and/or different chemical modification and thermal behavior of such
modified jute and cotton fabrics is also available. One patent [11] is available on simultaneous dyeing and fire
retardant finishing on Aramid fibre. In an earlier publication, details of fire-retardant agents and application
procedures on cellulosic and synthetics are available in details [34]. However, no study has been reported so far on
simultaneous dyeing and fire retardant finishing of jute fabric. With this background information in mind, one-step
simultaneous dyeing and fire retardant finishing of jute fabric using an acid dye and Urea-DAP or Urea-Ortho
Phosphoric Acid or Urea- Ammonium Sulphamate has been attempted in the present work. This one step
technique (replacing conventional two stage process of acid dyeing and fire retardant finishing) is expected to offer
advantages of reduction in processing cost, saving in water and energy consumption, reduction in time of
treatment as well as better or at least at par colour value, colour fastness and fire retardant performance.
Materials & Methods
Materials
1) Jute Fabric
Raw ex-loom, plain weave, fine Hessian 100% jute fabric of decorative variety with 6 ends/cm(count 256 tex), 5
picks/cm(count256 tex), 275 g/m2 (area density) was used in the present work. After conventional desizing and
scouring [6, 13] (using 4 gpl Na2CO3, 1 gpl non-ionic detergent, at pH 9.0 by heating at 80°C for 30 min)
followed by conventional 3% (on weight of fabric) H2O2 bleaching [14, 26] (hot, at 85°C for 2 h) with usual
additives (sodium metasilicate, NaOH, EDTA, non-ionic wetting agent Lissapol-D using laboratory jigger with
MLR 1:5), the fabric weight (area density) became 255 g/m2.
2) Chemicals and Dyes
Laboratory reagent grade Diammonium phosphate (DAP) and Ammonium Sulphamate (AS) of Loba Chemie
Pvt.Ltd., Mumbai, Urea (Nice Chemicals Pvt.Ltd., Kochi), Ortho-Phosphoric acid (OP) (85%) of S D Fine Chem.
Ltd., Mumbai . Acid dye, Acid Red F2R (CI Acid Red 151), supplied by Dye Chem, India was used.
OH
NaO3S N=N N=N
CI ACID RED 151 (ACID RED F2R)
Methods
Conventional Two-Step Sequential Dyeing (with Acid Dye) and Fire-retardant Finishing (with Urea-DAP or Urea-
OP or AS)
1) Dyeing of Jute with Acid Dye
Exhaust Method
For 20 g of fabric sample, 0.25 g of acid dye was used (1% depth of shade) in 400 ml (fabric to liquor ratio i.e.
MLR 1:20) aqueous solution of 5% glauber salt and a requisite volume of 5% Alum was added to adjust pH to 4-
4.5. The dyeing [7, 28, 29] was carried out for 1 h at 90°C (± 50C), in Infra Colour Dyeing Machine (Make- RB
Electronic Engg Pvt Ltd) after which the dyed sample was squeezed, neutralized with 1% NaOH solution,
followed by soaping with 5 gpl non-ionic soap or detergent at 50°C for 15 min (instead of 45 min as in ISO-II
method) [16] and finally washed in cold water and dried in air.
2) Application of Flame Retardant Finishing Treatments with different Formulations
Jute fabrics dyed with Acid dye in exhaust method were padded (100% weight pick-up) with following flame
retardant formulations as given below followed by drying at 100° C for 10 min and curing at 140°C for 5 min.
Simultaneous Dyeing and Fire-Retardant Finishing of Jute Fabric Using an Acid Dye and Selective F-R Finishing Chemicals 3
Based on reported literature [4, 5],the following to optimum formulations developed in this laboratory with
varying concentrations of fire-retardant agents.
TABLE 1. FORMULATION OF SIMULTANEOUS AND SEQUENTIAL DTEING AND FIRE RETARDANT FINISHING
Formulation Formulation-A Formulation-B Formulation-C

Variations used for simultaneous dyeing and F-R Urea-10-30% and DAP 5- Urea-5%-20% and OP 4- Urea-10%-25% and AS
finishing 15% 12% 10-30%
Formulation for sequential dyeing and urea-20% and (AS)
Urea-20% and DAP 10% urea-10% and (OP) -8%
F-R finishing 20%
3) One Step Simultaneous Acid Dyeing and Flame Retardant Finishing

Pad-dry-cure Process
i) One Step Simultaneous Acid Dyeing and Fire Retardant Finishing with Urea-DAP, Urea- OP and Urea-AS -
Bleached jute fabric samples were soaked in a solution containing different concentrations of DAP with Urea as
mentioned in formulation A in Table 1, with 1% acid dye and non-ionic detergent (Nonidet P-40). The samples
were then padded at 100% expression using a laboratory padding mangle (with two-dip and two-nip
technique). Finally, the padded fabrics were dried at 1000C for 5 min followed by curing at 140°C for 5 min.
After curing, the fabric samples were washed in cold water and soaped with 5 gpl non-ionic soap at 50°C for 15
min, followed by final washing in cold water and drying in air.
The above procedure one step simultaneous acid dyeing (with 1% acid dye Red-F2R) and Fire-retardant
finishing was repeated using different percentages of formulation B and C in table 1.
Testing and Evaluation
All the untreated and treated jute fabric samples were conditioned [16] for 48 h at 65% (±2%) RH and 270C (±20C) as
per standard method IS: 6359-1971, for each testing method described below:
1) Determination of Fabric Stiffness (bending Length)
The bending length of the selected fabric samples were measured as per IS-6490-1971 method using Cantilever
type SASMIRA fabric stiffness tester.
2) Measurement of Tensile Properties (tenacity)
Breaking tenacity of selected fabric samples were measured by the raveled strip method as per IS-1969-1985
method ((ISI (BIS) Handbook of Textile Testing1982) using an Instron (Model-1445) CRT-Universal tensile tester
with a traverse speed of 100 mm/min and a pretension of 0.5 N. The final gauge length (sample size) of the
fabric sample was 50 mm.x 20 mm. under the two jaws.
3) Measurement of Surface Colour Strength
Surface colour strength of untreated, differently treated and dyed and / or finished jute fabric sample was
estimated in terms of K/S values by measuring the surface reflectance of each fabric sample at the respective
λmax using a Macbeth 2020-plus reflectance spectrophotometer along with associated Colour-Lab plus software
for converting the reflectance value to K/S value using Kubelka Munk’s equation (C H Giles 1974; E R Trotman
1975) as follows:
(1 – R λmax )2
K/S = α CD
2 R λmax
Where, K = coefficient of absorption.

S = coefficient of scattering.
R λmax = reflectance of the substrate at maximum absorbance wavelength.
CD = concentration of dye.
The K/S value (surface colour strength) is considered as an index for surface dye uptake, i.e. higher the K/S
value, higher is the surface dye-uptake of the sample.
4) Measurement of Colour Difference Index (CDI)
∆E x ∆H
Colour difference Index (CDI) =
∆C x MI
Colour difference index of dyed and differently treated jute fabric was estimated in terms of CDI by measuring
∆E, ∆C, ∆H and MI values of each sample irrespective of their sign and direction may be utilized to obtain a
single colour parameter to be known as colour difference Index (CDI values) by the following proposed
empirical relationship:
Closer to CDI values (ie. CDI max –CDI min) under any one set of dyeing condition or pre dyeing treatment
conditions, more is the uniformity of colour distribution and better is the dispersion of colour across the
plane/surface area of the textile fabric. Higher CDI values thus indicate some lesser uniformity for non-uniform
treatment /fixation.
5) Measurement of Colour Fastness to Washing
Colour fastness to washing was determined using SASMIRA launder-O-meter as per IS: 3361-1984 (ISO-II)
method [16] (using 5gpl soap, MLR 1:50, 500C (±20C) temperature and 45 min washing time). Change in the
depth of colour of the dyed fabric and the extent of staining on the adjacent white fabric was determined using
grey-scales and the grey-scale rating was also confirmed / corrected through a computer aided Macbeth 2020-
plus reflectance spectrophotometer by relevant colourlab Plus software.
6) Measurement of Colour Fastness to Light
The light fastness of the dyed and/or finished jute fabric samples was evaluated as per BS 1006: BOI: 1978
method .The fabric samples (10cm long x 2.5cm wide) were exposed to 500 watt Philip UV-light using a Shirley
(SDL) MBTF-microsal fade-O-meter along with simultaneous exposure of eight different blue wool standard
fabrics (BS 1006: BOI: 1978) having known light fastness rating from 1-8. The light fastness rating was then
assessed by comparing the extent of fading of the sample with that of the corresponding blue wool standard
fabrics after different hours of exposure to MBTF lamp in SDL microscal fade-O-meter.
7) Measurement of Colour Fastness to Crocking / Rubbing
Dry Rubbing fastness of the dyed samples was determined using a SDL electronic crockmeter (make: Shirley
Development Ltd.) as per IS: 766-1956 method (ISI (BIS) Handbook of Textile Testing1982).
8) Determination of Limiting Oxygen Index
Limiting Oxygen Index (LOI) are critical oxygen index values indicating the relative measure of flammability of
any materials or textiles. LOI values of selected untreated and treated fabric samples were determined in a
standard LOI tester (Make: S C Dey & Co. Kolkata) as per ASTM-D-2863-77 method [4, 5, 8].
9) Vertical Flammability Test
Selected untreated and treated jute fabric samples of specified length (315mm length and 50 mm wide) were
exposed to a standard flame for a specified time (for jute it is 12 sec, as standardized earlier in this laboratory)
and was allowed to burn in Standard flammability tester(Make: Paramount, India,) following IS : 11871-1986
standard method[30]. The fabric samples were mounted vertically in a specimen holder and were then exposed
to a standard flame of specified height (38 mm) exposed at 90° with the specimen for 12 second and is left for
burning, to note flame spread time, afterglow time, and char length (in cm) after the burning.
Results and Discussions
Effect of One-Step Simultaneous Dyeing and Fire Retardant Finishing by Pad-Dry-Cure Process on Fire Retardant
Performance of Jute Fabric
The fire retardant properties of each formulations (Urea-DAP , Urea-OP and Urea-AS) on jute fabric in both two
step conventional and one step simultaneous dyeing and FR finishing are investigated for different concentration
of FR agents in terms of LOI value, flame spread time, afterglow time, char length and relevant results are shown
in Table no. 2, 3 and 4.
LOI value of control bleached jute fabric is found to be 20.5, flame spread time is 55 sec and after glow time is 49
sec. Jute fabric dyed with 1% Acid Red F2R also showed similar fire retardant property at par with that found for
bleached jute fabric. Different concentrations of urea and DAP (Formulation A in table 1) are applied on jute fabric
in one step simultaneous dyeing and FR finishing method . Lower concentration of Urea (10%) and DAP(5 %) does
not show much fire retardant action. However, moderate fire retardancy is achieved at Urea (20%) and DAP (7%) ,
showing LOI value as 34 . On application of higher amount of Urea (25% and 30%) and DAP (10%, 12% and 15%)
achieved excellent fire retardancy showing LOI value 38 and char length between 2.00 to 2.30 cm. In two step
conventional process of sequential dyeing and FR finishing method using 20% Urea and 10% DAP showed LOI
value 38.5 and char length 1.9 cm. The similar fire retardant property(LOI>=36) also can be achieved by
formulations 2b, 2e, 3b, 3c, 3d, 3e, 4d and 4e but considering the minimum loss of tenacity and maximum surface
colour strength, Formulation -3c is found to be the best.
Different concentrations of urea and OP (Formulation B in table 1) are applied on jute fabric. OP and Urea treated
jute fabric achieved effective fire retardancy at all level of concentrations used and LOI value observed to 30.5 to
38.5 . On application of higher amount of Urea (15% and 20%) and OP (8%, 10% and 12%) achieved excellent fire
retardancy showing LOI value 38.5 and char length 2.00 to 2.54 cm. In two step conventional process of sequential
dyeing and FR finishing method with Urea (10%) and OP (8%) showed LOI value 38 and char length 2.54 cm. The
similar fire retardant properties are also found in formulation 5e,6c, 6d, 6e, 7c, 7d, 7e, 8c, 8d and 8e. But considering
the minimum loss of tenacity and maximum surface colour strength formulation 6-e is the best.
Different concentrations of urea and AS (Formulation C in table 1) are applied on jute fabric. AS and Urea treated
jute fabric achieved effective fire retardancy at all level of concentrations used and LOI value observed to 30.12 to
39.25. On application of higher amount of Urea (20% and 25%) and AS (20%, 25% and 30% ) achieved excellent fire
retardancy showing LOI value 39.25 and char length 1.30 to 1.60 cm. In two step conventional process of sequential
dyeing and FR finishing method with Urea (20%) and AS (20%) showed LOI value 38.65 and char length 1.60 cm.
The similar fire retardant property can be achieved by formulation 10d, 11d, 11e, 12c, 12d and 12e. But considering
the minimum loss of tenacity and maximum surface colour strength formulation 11-c is the best.
Reaction Mechanism
Phosphorylation reaction of jute: The cellulose and hemi-cellulose of jute reacts with phosphoric acid
(Diammonium phosphate also on heating converts to Phosphoric Acid) at elevated temperature to form phosphate
ester. H3PO4 at high temperature reacts with the hydroxyl groups of jute fibre. Based on reported literature [9, 27],
the Scheme1, 2 and 3 shows the postulated reaction mechanism leading to formation of phosphorylated jute (II, III
and IV).
Hence, H3PO4 is the main fire retardant agent but function of Urea is manifold i.e. reduction of acidic degradation
e.g. moderate fire retardancy, have some buffer action, facilitates formation of phosphate ester with cellulose,
reduces acidity of the formulation, reduces loss in tenacity and swells cellulose to enhance penetration [10].
Reaction mechanism of Urea-Ammonium Sulphamate - The mechanism of reaction based on the formation of
cyanic acid from urea explains in the mechanism as shown in scheme 4.
The formation of cyanic acid takes place at temperatures upwards of 140ºC and it seems that this active fragment
reacts with sulphamic acid to form urea-sulphonic acid & this urea sulphonic acid reacts with jute’s aldehyde
group (–CHO).
As this reaction is performing under acidic pH due to acid dye, it acts as self catalyzed reaction. The complex
which formed with the primary cellulose of jute obtained by blocking C6 position. (Levo glucosan). The fire
retardant chemical works both in primary and secondary position which are shown in the above reaction
mechanism and responsible for the good FR property of ammonium sulphamate [17, 18, 19, 20].
Reaction Scheme 1
O O
‖ ‖
Jute-Cell-CH2OH + HO ---P---OH → Jute-Cell-CH2-O-P-OH
| |
OH OH
(Jute Cellulose I) (Phosphoric Acid) (Phosphorylated jute cellulose II)
Reaction Scheme 2
(a)
2 NH2-CO-NH2 → NH2CONHCONH2 + ΝΗ3
(Di-urea)
(b) O
‖
NH3-P-OH → H3PO4+ NH3
|
NH3
(C) O O
‖ ‖
Jute-Cell-CH2-O-P-OH + 2NH3 → Jute-Cell-CH2-O-P-NH2 + 2H2O
| |
OH NH2
(Phosphorylated jute cellulose II) (Ammonium salt of Phosphorylated jute cellulose III)
(d) O O
‖ ‖
Jute-Cell-CH2-O-P-OH + NH2-CO-NH2 → Jute-Cell-CH2-O-P-NH-CO-NH2
| |
OH N (Diurea salt of phosphorylated jute cellulose)
/ \ (IV)
H CO-NH2
Reaction Scheme 3
OH H OH H OH H
| | | | . | |.
Jute-C-C-OH + H+ → Jute-C-C-OH → Jute-C-C - + H2O → Further dehydration until complete char formation
| | | | | |
HH H H H H H
(Jute Cellulose) (Proton from Lewis Acid)
Reaction Scheme 4
(a) NH2 -CO-NH2 → NH4 OCN → NH3 + HOCN
Urea Cyanic acid
(b) HOCN + NH2O SO2NH4 → NH2CO-NHSO3NH4+ NH3
(Ammonium Sulphamate) (Ammonium ureasulphonate)
(c) Jute-Cell-CHO + NH2CO-NHSO3NH4 → Jute-Cell-CH=NCONH-SO3NH4
(d) Jute-Cell-CH2OH + NH4OSO2NH2 → Jute-Cell-CH2-OSO2NH2 + H2O + NH3

Effect of One-Step Simultaneous Dyeing and Fire Retardant Finishing by Pad-Dry-Cure Process on Physical
Properties of Jute Fabric
It is observed from the relevant data of table 2, 3 and 4 that during only dyeing of conventional 3% H2O2 bleached
jute fabric with 1% selective acid dye (without any finishing) at pH 4-5, there is an unavoidable loss in tenacity of
around 10% due to removal of some water / acid hydrolysable components of jute along with minor fibre shedding
from the jute fabric during dyeing and washing. There is also a marginal reduction in breaking extension value.
This reduction in warp-way tenacity in this case should be viewed as an effect of some degree of acidic degradation
of jute during dyeing (with acid dye) at pH 4.0 to 5.0.
TABLE 2. EFFECT OF APPLICATION OF SELECTIVE ACID DYE, UREA AND DAP BY ONE-STEP SIMULTANEOUS PAD-DRY-CURE METHOD ON MECHANICAL
PROPERTIES OF JUTE FABRIC
Physical properties Flammability properties

Vertical Limiting
Surface
flammability test Oxygen
Loss in Bending Colour
Treatments Elongation Index (%)
Tenacity Length Strength
(%) Flame After
(%) (cm) (K/S value Char Length
Spread Glow
at λmax) (cm)
Time(sec) Time(sec)
(Nil Control Bleached Jute) --- 6.2 4 0.76 2(BEL) 55.0 (BEL) 20.5
Dyeing with 1% acid dye(Red F2R,
exhaust process) without any FR 10 5.37 3.6 6.25 2 (BEL) 55.0 (BEL) 20.5
finishing chemicals
Two-step sequential application of
1% acid dye (Red F2R) exhaust
40.5 3.77 4.2 7.21 8 4 1.90 38.5
process followed by Urea 20%-DAP
10% (Formulation –A)
Single step simultaneous dyeing (1%
acid dye Red F2R) and F-R finishing
(using following variations by pad-
dry-cure technique)
Formulation 1a DAP 5% 29 3.62 3.8 6.41 5 33 6.00 30
Formulation 1b Acid DAP 7% 36 3.85 3.9 6.67 5 30 5.20 32.5
Formulation 1c Dye 1% DAP 10% 44.5 4.04 4.2 7.32 6 25 4.30 34
Formulation 1d Urea 10 DAP 12% 52 4.10 4.2 7.56 6 16 3.60 34.5
Formulation 1e % DAP 15% 60 4.16 4.4 7.75 6 10 2.54 35
Washed Fabric 1c 2 50 10 24
Formulation 2b Acid DAP 7% 30 4.16 3.8 7.16 7 12 2.54 34.5
Formulation 2c dye 1% DAP 10% 35 4.22 4 7.35 10 6 3.80 35.0
Formulation 2d Urea DAP 12% 45 4.27 4.2 7.86 10 6 2.54 36.5
Formulation 2e 20% DAP 15% 52 4.54 4.2 7.90 -- -- 1.90 37
Formulation 3b Acid DAP 7% 24 5.03 3.9 7.20 7 2 3 36.5
Formulation 3c dye 1% DAP 10% 30.5 5.10 4.2 8.26 -- -- 2.00 38.0
Formulation 3d Urea DAP 12% 45 5.45 4 8.21 -- -- 1.27 38.5
Formulation 3e 25% DAP 15% 50 5.69 4 8.32 10 -- 1 39
Formulation 4a DAP 5% 17.5 4.26 4 6.98 10 7 3.20 34
Formulation 4b Acid DAP 7% 26 5.01 4.1 7.25 7 5 3.00 35
Formulation 4c dye 1% DAP 10% 37 5.21 4.1 7.76 -- -- 2.70 35.5
Formulation 4d Urea DAP 12% 49 5.48 4.3 8.25 -- -- 2.30 36
Formulation 4e 30% DAP 15% 55 5.62 4.4 8.35 -- -- 2.30 38
Washed Fabric 4c 3 45 9 27.5
TABLE 3. EFFECT OF APPLICATION OF SELECTIVE ACID DYE , UREA AND OP BY ONE-STEP SIMULTANEOUS PAD-DRY-CURE METHOD ON MECHANICAL

Limiting
Surface Vertical
Bendin Oxygen
Loss in Colour flammability test
Treatments Elongatio g Index (%)
Tenacity Strength
n (%) Length Flame Char
(%) (K/S value After Glow
(cm) Spread Length
at λmax) Time(sec)
Time(sec) (cm)
(Nil Control Bleached Jute) --- 4.12 4 0.756 2 (BEL) 55.0 (BEL) 20.5
exhaust process) without any FR 10 4 3.6 6.25 2 (BEL) 55.0 (BEL) 20.5
finishing chemicals
Two-step sequential application of 1%
acid dye (Red F2R) exhaust process
42 2.39 4.3 7.23 4 4 2.54 38
followed by Urea 10%- OP 8%
(Formulation-B)
Single step simultaneous dyeing (1% acid
dye Red F2R) and F-R finishing (using
following variations by pad-dry-cure
technique)
Formulation 5a OP 4% 21 2.58 3.7 6.62 5 16 BEL 30
Formulation 5b OP 6% 35.6 2.24 3.8 6.56 4 10 10.00 30.5
Acid dye
Formulation 5c OP 8% 44 2.65 3.7 7.45 4 7 10.16 32
1%
Formulation 5d OP 10% 56 2.87 4.1 7.65 8 6 6.35 35
Urea 5%
Formulation 5e OP 12% 67 2.99 4.2 7.92 8 5 5.50 36
Formulation 6a OP 4% 15 2.17 3.8 6.41 6 10 BEL 30.5
Formulation 6b OP 6% 27 3.24 4.2 7.24 10 2 2.90 33
Acid dye
Formulation 6c OP 8% 30 3.61 4.3 8.25 -- -- 2.00 38
1%
Formulation 6d OP 10% 57 3.72 4.3 8.86 8 -- 1.50 38.5
Urea 10%
Formulation 6e OP 12% 65 3.85 4.4 8.90 -- -- 1.30 38.5
Formulation 7a OP 4% 14.5 2.46 3.8 6.98 4 10 4.30 32
Formulation 7b OP 6% 28 2.65 3.8 7.22 5 4 3.50 36
Acid dye
Formulation 7c OP 8% 37 3.07 3.9 7.62 -- -- 2.54 36.5
1%
Formulation 7d OP 10% 45 3.39 4 8.20 -- -- 2.54 37
Urea 15%
Formulation 7e OP 12% 58 3.59 4.2 8.44 -- -- 2.00 38
Washed Fabric 7c 2 45 10 27.5
Formulation 8a OP 4% 17 1.24 3.9 6.95 6 8 4.50 32.0
Formulation 8b OP 6% 25.4 2.17 4 7.52 6 4 3.60 34.5
Acid dye
Formulation 8c OP 8% 37.5 2.46 4 7.87 8 3 3.00 38
1%
Formulation 8d OP 10% 41 3.69 4.1 8.36 8 -- 2.50 38.5
Urea 20%
Formulation 8e OP 12% 55 3.71 4.2 8.47 10 -- 2.00 38.5
In two step conventional and sequential dyeing and fire-retardant finishing process using Urea (20%) and DAP
(10%) show a loss in tenacity around 40 % in Table 2. In one step simultaneous dyeing and FR finishing process, the
percentage loss in tenacity increases as the amount of DAP increases. Formulation 3c shows a moderate loss in
tenacity around 30-31%, whereas higher amount of DAP application shows higher loss around tenacity of 50% to
60% in other causes.
In two step conventional and sequential dyeing and FR finishing process using Urea (10%) and OP (8%) shows a
loss in tenacity around 40-42% in Table 3. For one step simultaneous dyeing and FR finishing process the same
trend is followed, where, the percentage loss in tenacity increases as the amount of OP increased. Formulation 6c
shows a moderate loss in tenacity around 30%, whereas higher amount of OP application shows higher loss
around tenacity of 58% to 67% in other cases.
TABLE 4. EFFECT OF APPLICATION OF SELECTIVE ACID DYE, UREA AND AS BY ONE-STEP SIMULTANEOUS PAD-DRY-CURE METHOD ON MECHANICAL

Surface Limiting
Vertical
Loss in Bending Colour Oxygen
Treatments Elongatio flammability test
Tenacit Length Strength Index (%)
n (%)
y (%) (cm) (K/S value Flame Spread After Glow Char Length
at λmax) Time(sec) Time(sec) (cm)
(Nil Control Bleached Jute) --- 6.2 4 0.76 2(BEL) 55.0 (BEL) 20.5
exhaust process) without any FR 10 5.37 3.6 6.25 2 (BEL) 55.0 (BEL) 20.5
finishing chemicals
Two-step sequential application of 1%
acid dye (Red F2R) exhaust process
18.84 5.82 3.8 7.06 ----- 3 2.3 36.93
followed by Urea 20%-AS 20%
(Formulation –C)
Single step simultaneous dyeing (1%
acid dye Red F2R) and F-R finishing
(using following variations by pad-dry-
cure technique)
Formulation 9a AS10% 10.12 4.49 3.9 5.82 4 6 3.4 30.12
Formulation 9b Acid AS15% 14.25 4.25 4.2 6.12 4 6 2.0 31.34
Dye
Formulation 9c AS20% 24.46 4.10 4.5 7.24 6 4 1.8 34.85
1%
Formulation 9d AS25% 26.21 3.95 4.7 7.86 --- 3 1.5 36.74
Urea
Formulation 9e 10 % AS30% 29.35 3.82 5.1 7.93 --- 3 1.5 37.10
Washed Fabric 9c 4 5 2.3 30.12
Formulation 10a AS10% 13.46 4.42 4.1 5.98 6 4 3.2 35.00
dye
Formulation 10c AS20% 27.69 4.88 5.1 6.70 8 3 1.8 36.96
1%
Formulation 10d AS25% 26.33 4.20 5.2 7.32 ----- 2 1.6 37.18
Urea
Formulation 10e 15% AS30% 26.54 3.85 5.2 8.35 ----- ---- 1.5 38.37
Formulation 11a AS10% 21.82 4.72 5.0 6.30 6 3 2.6 32.37
dye
Formulation 11c AS20% 27.23 5.15 4.5 8.09 ----- ---- 1.6 38.65
1%
Formulation 11d AS25% 27.46 5.80 5.0 8.33 ----- ---- 1.5 38.78
Urea
Formulation 11e 20% AS30% 27.82 4.68 4.8 8.45 ---- ---- 1.4 38.85
Formulation 12a AS10% 19.61 5.31 3.8 6.32 7 4 2.1 33.96
Formulation 12b Acid AS15% 22.69 5.41 4..4 7.59 10 2 1.8 36.57
dye
Formulation 12c AS20% 24.21 5.03 4.7 8.11 ---- --- 1.6 38.67
1%
Formulation 12d AS25% 28.46 5.21 3.9 8.20 ----- --- 1.4 38.75
Urea
Formulation 12e 25% AS30% 28.84 4.89 4.6 8.55 ---- --- 1.3 39.25
The loss of tenacity for fire retardant finished jute fabrics treated with combination of urea and H3PO4 , may be also
due to the acidic degradation by H3PO4 during curing.
The bending length of these fire retardant finished jute fabrics are found to be marginally increased with the
increase in concentration of H3PO4 and di-ammonium phosphate causing the fabric handle to become relatively
stiffer. The stiffness so imparted is perhaps also due to the effect of phosphorylation reaction.
In two step conventional and sequential dyeing and fire-retardant finishing process using Urea (20%) and AS (20%)
showed a loss in tenacity around 18.81% as shown in Table 4. In one step simultaneous dyeing and FR finishing
process, the percentage loss in tenacity increases as the amount of AS increases. Formulation 11c shows a moderate
loss in tenacity around 27.23%, whereas higher amount of AS application shows higher loss around tenacity of
28.46% in other cases.
The loss of tenacity for fire retardant finished jute fabrics treated with combination of urea and AS may be also due
to the acidic degradation by sulphamic acid during curing.
The bending length of these fire retardant finished jute fabrics are found to be marginally increased with the
increase in concentration of ammonium sulphamate causing the fabric handle to become relatively stiffer.
Effect of One Step Simultaneous Dyeing And Fire-retardant Finishing on Surface Appearance and Colour Values of
Jute Fabric
Corresponding surface colour strength (K/S value) brightness index, metamerism index, colour differences (∆E and
∆L, ∆a and ∆b) and colour difference index ( CDI) values etc for 3% H2O2 bleached control jute fabric dyed with
selective acid dye, jute fbric subjected to conventional two step process of acid dyeing and fire retardant finishing
and jute fabric subjected to one step simultaneous acid dyeing and fire-retardant finishing using different
concentrations of Urea –DAP, OP and AS of are shown in Table 5, 6 and 7. There is an increase in the colour
strength (K/S) value at λmax from 0.75 (for 3% H2O2 bleached control fabric) to 6.25 (for dyed fabric) after dyeing of
the bleached jute fabric with a selective acid dye (Acid-Red F2R) for 1% (on weight of fabric) depth of shade.
In two step conventional and sequential dyeing and Fire-retardant finishing by acid red F2R (1%) and Urea-DAP,
corresponding K/S value at λmax is 7.2 , whereas the same obtained by single step simultaneous dyeing and Fire-
retardant finishing a slightly higher K/S value is found with increase in amount of DAP and Urea in Table-5. The
same trend is also found with urea-OP and Urea- AS fire retardant formulation for increase in OP and AS in Table-
6 and 7 respectively. The increase in surface colour strength for one step simultaneous dyeing and Fire-retardant
finishing may be due to the acidic degradation cum structural loosing effect in jute fibre due to this action of DAP
or OP supported with higher swelling by Urea.
TABLE 5. COLOUR STRENGTH, BRIGHTNESS INDEX, METAMERISM INDEX, CDI VALUE AND RELATED COLOUR PARAMETER OF UREA-DAP TREATED JUTE
FABRICS DYED WITH ACID RED F2R BY BOTH TWO STEP SEQUENTIAL AND SINGLE STEP SIMULTANEOUS PROCESS
Treatments K/S ‫גּ‬max ∆E ∆L ∆a ∆b ∆C ∆H BI MI CDI4 CDImax - min

(Nil Control Bleached Jute) 0.756 - - - - - - 38.34 - -
Acid Red F2R Dyed Jute 6.25 57.14 34.64 45.25 4.15 36.06 27.65 23.60 14.25 3.07 --
Sequential application of 1% acid dye
7.21 55.60 31.30 45.74 4.39 36.60 27.78 8.64 14.26 2.95 --
& finishing with Formulation-A
Simultaneous dyeing and finishing
(with Formulation A)
Formulation 1a DAP 5% 6.41 62.94 37.19 49.23 12.45 43.03 26.97 4.05 16.16 2.44
Formulation 1b Acid DAP 7% 6.67 60.64 38.22 45.65 11.30 40.52 25.52 3.65 14.52 2.63
dye 1%
Formulation 1c DAP 10% 7.32 59.61 39.42 42.87 12.67 37.55 24.27 3.49 13.57 2.83 0.39
Urea
Formulation 1d 10% DAP 12% 7.56 58.92 38.50 45.82 11.42 41.52 25.42 3.85 13.26 2.72
Formulation 1e DAP 15% 7.75 58.56 38.76 42.65 10.33 36.21 24.79 4.05 13.46 2.69
dye 1%
Urea
dye 1%
Urea
dye 1%
Urea
TABLE 6. COLOUR STRENGTH, BRIGHTNESS INDEX, METAMERISM INDEX, CDI VALUE AND RELATED COLOUR PARAMETER OF UREA-OP JUTE FABRICS DYED
WITH ACID RED F2R
Treatments K/S ‫גּ‬max ∆E ∆L ∆a ∆b ∆C ∆H BI MI CDI4 CDImax - min

Sequential application of 1% acid dye & 58.33 35.16 6.61
7.23 46.21 5.50 37.43 27.65 14.37 2.99 --
finishing with Formulation-B
Simultaneous dyeing and finishing (with
Formulation B)
Formulation 5a OP 4% 6.62 59.81 38.47 45.14 7.73 37.30 26.56 4.61 14.09 3.02
Formulation 5b Acid dye OP 6% 6.56 57.96 40.87 40.59 6.42 32.63 24.99 4.28 12.85 3.45
Formulation 5c 1% OP 8% 7.45 57.17 40.80 39.56 6.24 31.61 24.59 4.42 12.08 3.68 0.67
Formulation 5d Urea 5% OP 10% 7.65 59.72 40.36 43.20 8.43 35.84 25.55 3.95 13.43 3.17
Formulation 5e OP 12% 7.92 59.90 41.10 42.18 8.24 36.85 25.85 4.32 13.95 3.01
Formulation 6a OP 4% 6.41 59.83 38.61 44.68 9.56 37.67 25.87 4.56 13.60 3.02
Acid dye
Formulation 6b OP 6% 7.24 59.48 37.39 45.51 8.21 37.84 26.58 5.21 13.97 2.99
1%
Formulation 6c OP 8% 8.25 57.74 38.42 42.53 6.95 34.60 25.68 5.14 12.97 3.30 0.72
Urea
Formulation 6d OP 10% 8.86 59.83 38.55 41.23 5.61 32.87 25.51 5.30 12.67 3.66
10%
Formulation 6e OP 12% 8.90 59.58 38.65 41.65 5.95 33.65 26.21 5.21 12.50 3.71
Formulation 7a OP 4% 6.98 64.26 39.40 49.53 11.14 42.72 27.43 3.72 16.04 2.57
Acid dye
Formulation 7b OP 6% 7.22 64.44 39.57 49.87 10.00 42.55 27.86 3.66 16.15 2.61
1%
Formulation 7c OP 8% 7.62 63.52 38.90 49.06 10.71 42.11 27.35 3.80 15.99 2.58 0.32
Urea
Formulation 7d OP 10% 8.20 60.97 38.35 46.50 9.15 39.13 26.73 4.39 14.88 2.79
15%
Formulation 7e OP 12% 8.44 62.52 39.25 48.45 10.02 40.14 27.85 4.21 14.98 2.89
Formulation 8a OP 4% 6.95 62.26 38.40 48.53 10.14 41.72 26.43 4.72 15.99 2.46
Acid dye
Formulation 8b OP 6% 7.52 62.44 38.57 48.87 9.00 41.55 26.86 4.66 14.88 2.71
1%
Formulation 8c OP 8% 7.87 61.52 37.90 48.06 9.71 41.11 26.35 4.80 14.98 2.63 0.26
Urea
Formulation 8d OP 10% 8.36 60.97 37.35 45.50 9.15 40.13 25.73 5.39 15.94 2.45
20%
Formulation 8e OP 12% 8.47 61.52 38.42 47.45 10.02 41.14 26.85 4.61 15.69 2.55
The colour difference values (∆E and ∆L, ∆a, ∆b and CDI) of different variations of Urea- DAP, Urea- OP and Urea-
AS are also tabulated in table 4, 5 and 6. Relevant results indicate that Formulation 3c (using Urea-25% and DAP
10%) in Table -4 and Formulation 6c (Urea-10% and OP- 8%) in table 5 and Formulation 11c (Urea-20% and AS-
20%) in table 6 show higher K/S values than that of same dyeing and finish obtained by two stage conventional
process with minimum ∆b i.e. less tonal change to blue and yellow, with lesser tenacity loss percentage.
The observed reduction in Brightness index for dyeing only and more on dyeing and finishing by two step
conventional process and further more by one step simultaneous dyeing and Fire Retardant finishing, may be
explained by the increase in diffused reflection for dye molecules and finishing chemicals fixed or adhered to jute
changing its reflection pattern making it more diffused to reduce the overall brightness. However the best two
formulations 3c, 6c and 11c show quite a lower MI, indicating a better closer match possibility in any case.
Effect of One Step Simultaneous Dyeing and Finishing on Fastness Properties of Jute Fabric
Table 8 indicate the colour fastness to wash, light and rubbing for acid dyed jute fabric, acid dyed and FR finished
jute fabric obtained by conventional two step process of acid dyeing and fire retardant finishing and acid dyed and
fire retardant finished jute fabric obtained by one step simultaneous dyeing and FR finishing by pad-dry-cure
process.
Bleached jute fabric dyed (by exhaust process) with 1% acid dye using selective acid dye, (Acid-Red F2R) without
any fire retardant finishing shows colour fastness to wash 2-3 (change in shade) and 3 (Staining on cotton). Colour
Fastness to wash for acid dyed and fire retardant finished jute fabric obtained by two-step sequential process of
exhaust dyeing with 1% acid dye (Acid Red F2R) followed by fire-retardant finishing using 20% Urea and 10%
DAP does not alter/change, but light fastness and rubbing fastness increases by one grade, while for acid dyed and
FR finished jute fabric obtained by single step simultaneous acid dyeing and FR finishing with 10% Urea and 8%
OP rub-fastness is improved by 1.5 grade, light fastness is improved by 1 grade and wash fastness is also improved
by 1/2 grade as compared to that of only dyed (without FR finish) jute fabric. Colour Fastness to wash for acid dyed
and fire retardant finished jute fabric obtained by two-step sequential process of exhaust dyeing with 1% acid dye
(Acid Red F2R) followed by fire-retardant finishing using 20% Urea and 20% AS does not alter/change, but light
fastness and rubbing fastness increases by one grade.
TABLE 7. COLOUR STRENGTH, BRIGHTNESS INDEX, METAMERISM INDEX, CDI VALUE AND RELATED COLOUR PARAMETER OF UREA-AS JUTE FABRICS DYED
WITH ACID RED F2R
CDImax –
Treatments K/S ‫גּ‬max ∆E ∆L ∆a ∆b ∆C ∆H BI MI CDI4
min

Sequential application of 1% acid dye & 35.16 6.61
7.06 58.33 46.21 5.50 37.43 27.65 14.37 2.99 --
finishing with Formulation-C
Simultaneous dyeing and finishing (with
Formulation C)
Formulation 9a Acid AS10% 5.82 51.28 27.64 42.44 8.06 34.88 25.42 6.12 13.10 2.85
Formulation 9b Dye AS15% 6.12 53.09 32.38 41.36 7.72 33.77 25.10 5.92 13.02 3.03
Formulation 9c 1% AS20% 7.24 52.99 33.12 40.82 6.68 32.23 24.96 5.47 12.74 3.22 0.66
Formulation 9d Urea 10 AS25% 7.86 52.53 33.44 40.04 6.15 31.56 24.48 5.26 12.46 3.27
Formulation 9e % AS30% 7.93 51.99 33.86 39.12 5.10 30.27 24.36 4.96 11.92 3.51
Formulation 10a AS10% 5.98 54.59 32.55 43.06 8.18 35.62 25.54 6.36 13.15 2.98
Acid
Formulation10b AS15% 6.30 54.54 33.41 42.41 7.70 34.83 25.40 6.10 13.14 3.03
dye 1%
Formulation 10c AS20% 6.70 54.80 34.97 41.49 7.62 33.96 25.02 5.96 12.98 3.11 0.42
Urea
Formulation10d AS25% 7.32 53.24 35.57 39.28 5.12 30.89 24.95 5.59 12.79 3.36
15%
Formulation 10e AS30% 8.35 53.18 35.74 39.06 5.02 30.75 24.65 5.36 12.55 3.40
Formulation 11a AS10% 6.30 55.29 32.28 44.08 8.45 36.66 25.90 6.41 13.61 2.87
Acid
Formulation11b AS15% 7.70 54.53 32.53 43.24 6.73 35.19 25.02 6.07 12.72 3.05
dye 1%
Formulation11c AS20% 8.09 53.98 33.11 40.61 6.09 32.44 24.79 5.89 12.44 3.32 0.53
Urea
Formulation11d AS25% 8.33 52.94 34.16 40.00 6.01 32.20 24.45 5.53 11.92 3.37
20%
Formulation 11e AS30% 8.45 52.80 34.02 39.94 5.92 32.11 24.04 5.23 11.62 3.40
Formulation 12a AS10% 6.32 56.60 35.00 43.51 9.20 36.48 25.16 5.17 13.40 2.91
Acid
Formulation12b AS15% 7.59 56.70 36.16 42.76 8.86 34.31 24.09 5.60 12.92 3.08
dye 1%
Formulation 12c AS20% 8.11 56.29 36.33 42.08 8.79 35.01 24.05 4.80 12.54 3.08 0.91
Urea
Formulation12d AS25% 8.20 55.07 39.73 37.53 6.76 30.03 23.64 4.16 11.39 3.81
25%
Formulation 12e AS30% 8.55 54.90 39.92 37.16 6.32 29.95 23.22 4.02 11.13 3.82
TABLE 8. EFFECT OF APPLICATION OF SELECTIVE ACID DYE AND UREA AND OP OR DAP OR AS BY ONE-STEP SIMULTANEOUS PAD-DRY-CURE METHOD
ON COLOUR FASTNESS PROPERTIES OF JUTE FABRIC
Fastness to wash (ISO II)

Fastness Fastness to
Treatment and Formulation No. St. on
Change in shade To Light Rubbing (Dry)
cotton
Acid Red F2R Dyed Jute 2-3 3 3 2-3
Sequential application of 1% acid dye & finishing with Formulation-A 2-3 3 4 3-4
3-4 3-4 4 4
(with Formulation 3C)
Sequential application of 1% acid dye & finishing with Formulation-B 3 3 4 3-4
3-4 4 4 4
(with Formulation 6c)
Sequential application of 1% acid dye & finishing with Formulation-C 3-4 3-4 3 3
2-3 3 4 3
(with Formulation 11c)
TABLE 9. COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS OF COST EFFECTIVENESS
Cost add-on (in Rs) / linear metre

Two-step sequential Single step Single step Two-step sequential
application of 1% acid simultaneous simultaneous application of 1% acid Single step simultaneous
dye (Red F2R) by Dyeing and FR Dyeing and FR dye (Red F2R) by Dyeing and FR Finishing
Items exhaust process Finishing with 1% Finishing with 1% exhaust process with 1% (acid Red F2R)
followed by FR (acid Red F2R) and acid (Red F2R) and followed by FR and Urea-20% and AS
finishing with Urea Urea-25% and DAP Urea-10 % and OP finishing with Urea 20% by pad-dry-cure
20% and DAP 10% by 10% by pad-dry- 8% by pad-dry-cure 20% and AS 20% by process.
pad-dry-cure process. cure process process pad-dry-cure process.
Dyeing Cost
Bleaching chemicals
(6% H2O2, SMS, NID, 0.95- 1.00 0.95- 1.00 0.95- 1.00 0.95- 1.00 0.95- 1.00
etc)
Eco –friendly dye,
Chemicals & Dyefixer 2.50 - 3.20 2.50 - 3.20 2.50 - 3.20 2.50 - 3.20 2.50 - 3.20
(2%)
Water & Effluent
0.05 – 0.10 NIL NIL 0.05 – 0.10 NIL
treatment
Wages 0.40 - 0.50 NIL NIL 0.40 - 0.50 NIL
Steam 1.50 -1.75 NIL NIL 1.50 -1.75 NIL
Electricity 0.25 -0.30 NIL NIL 0.25 -0.30 NIL
Fire-Retardant Finishing Cost
Fire Retardant
4.4-5.0 4.40-5.00 3.50-4.00 5.0-5.50 5.00-5.50
finishing Chemicals
Water and Effluent
0.35-0.40 0.35-0.40 0.35-0.40 0.35-0.40 0.35-0.40
Treatment
Manpower 0.45-0.50 0.45-0.50 0.45-0.50 0.45-0.50 0.45-0.50
Steam NIL NIL NIL NIL NIL
Electricity 0.25-0.30 0.25-0.30 0.25-0.30 0.25-0.30 0.25-0.30
Drying Cost in Cylinder Drying Range Machine
Manpower 0.3-0.40 0.3-0.40 0.3-0.40 0.3-0.40 0.3-0.40
Steam 0.66-0.70 0.66-0.70 0.66-0.70 0.66-0.70 0.66-0.70
Electricity 0.42-0.50 0.42-0.50 0.42-0.50 0.42-0.50 0.42-0.50
Curing Cost in Stenter
Manpower 0.3-0.40 0.3-0.40 0.3-0.40 0.3-0.40 0.3-0.40
Steam 1.9-2.2 1.9-2.2 1.9-2.2 1.9-2.2 1.9-2.2
Electricity 0.80-1.0 0.80-1.0 0.80-1.0 0.80-1.0 0.80-1.0
Total cost for
blending to dyeing 15.48-18.25 13.28-15.60 12.38-14.60 15.98-18.75 13.78-16.10
and FR finishing
The increase in light fastness may be considered as an effect of antioxidant nature of Phosphate group anchored to
C6 group (-CH2OH) of cellulose, that again coupled with –NH2 or –NH3 end group retards photo initiated reaction
for UV-light/Sun light fading.
The improvement of rubbing fastness after acid dyed jute fabric with F-R finishing either by sequential or by
simultaneous one step process can be viewed as masking effect of some cross linked polyureas possibly
additionally formed creating a thin film of polyureas over the dyed fabric surface. Half grade higher improvement
of rubbing fastness by single step simultaneous dyeing and FR finishing may be explained by possibly higher
amount of dye-penetration assisted by padding pressure in pad-dry-cure process.
Wash fastness depend on either insolubilisation of dye present/anchored in the fibre on type of anchoring bond/
interactional force restricting dye molecules to come out from the fibre substrate. As F-R finishing either by
conventional two step process or by simultaneous one step process has no direct relevance to type of dye-fibre
anchoring force being created between jute and acid dye, there is hardly any improvement in wash fastness in both
the processes/ techniques. However, single step simultaneous process of acid dyeing and FR finishing (using 10%
Urea and 8% OP) show less staining and ½ grade improvement or 20% Urea and 10% DAP in wash fastness, which
can be viewed as an additional effect of possible interaction of –NH3 group of aminated phosphate groups (shown
in reaction-3) under acidic condition (by influence of DAP or OP) during curing so that acid dye (DSO3-) is more
firmly remained anchored to FR modified jute, however at higher alkalinity/ vigorous wash the same can be
hydrolyzed.
Assumptions
Fabric Used: 51”- 6 ends/cm X 5 pick/cm; 292 GSM or ~ 275 g / square metre; After bleaching fabric weight became
255 g/m2.
• Cost of acid dye (DYECHEM INTERNATIONAL) @ ~Rs. 310/Kg
• Steam generated by coal , Electricity Rs. 5/- per unit of Kwatthour
• Cost will vary for varying percentage shade and dye requirement
• Rate of the Above mentioned Fire-Retardant Chemicals (Commercial Grade)
i) Urea Rs. 12/- per Kg, ii) DAP Rs. 45/-per Kg
iii) OP Rs. 75/-per kg, iv) AS Rs. 80/- per kg
Analysis of Techno-economic Viability and Cost Effectiveness between Conventional Two

Step Sequential Process and Single Step Simultaneous Process of Acid Dyeing Fire-
Retardant Finishing of Jute Fabric
Table 8 shows the comparative cost add-on per linear meter of jute fabric for two step conventional process of acid
dyeing and FR finishing and two optimized recipe for simultaneous acid dyeing (with 1% acid Red F2R) and FR
finished (using Urea-25% and DAP 10% or Urea-10% and
OP 8% ) by pad-dry-cure process. Relevant comparative cost analysis shows that production cost for single step
simultaneous dyeing and FR finishing is Rs. 13.28-15.60 (for Urea-DAP recipe), Rs. 12.88-14.10 (for Urea-OP recipe)
and Rs. 13.78 - 16.10 (for Urea-AS recipe) per meter of jute fabric, which is much less than that required for two
stage sequential acid dyeing and FR finishing.
This is because of saving water and effluent treatment cost, wages of workers, electricity, steam etc. required for
dyeing in exhaust method which are absent in one step simultaneous acid dyeing and FR finishing by pad-dry-cure
method. Moreover, among the two optimized recipe for single step simultaneous acid dyeing and FR finishing, the
processing cost of the FR recipe containing urea and ortho phosphoric acid is cheaper than the FR recipe containing
urea and di-ammonium phosphate. This is because of the requirement of less percentage of application of urea
along with ortho-phosphoric acid FR recipe than that required in of urea and di-ammonium phosphate FR recipe.
Conclusions
• From the present study it is revealed that simultaneous dyeing (with an acid dye) and fire retardant
finishing with Urea- DAP, Urea- OP and Urea- AS on bleached jute fabric is found to be optimum for Urea
25% and DAP 10% concentration, Urea 10% and OP 8% concentration and Urea 20% and AS 20%
concentration respectively. Irrespective of the technique followed, the surface colour strength of
simultaneous dyed and fire-retardant finished (by single step process) jute fabric is found to increase with
an increase the percentage of application of all the fire-retardant finishing chemicals from and beyond
which it almost tends to level off.
• Dyeing of jute fabric with acid dye and fire retardant finishing (with Urea-DAP, Urea- OP and Urea-AS )
can be easily carried out in one-step simultaneous dyeing and FR finishing process by pad-dry-cure
method. The surface colour strength and improvement in fire retardant property thus obtained by the
single step simultaneous process of acid dyeing and FR finishing is found to be at par with that obtained by
conventional two-step sequential process of dyeing and fire retardant finishing, the former showing
improved light fastness and rubbing fastness as well.
• Single step simultaneous dyeing (with acid dye) and fire retardant finishing (with Urea-DAP , Urea-OP and
Urea-AS) of jute fabric by pad-dry-cure technique offers savings in energy, process time and operational
cost, giving satisfactory colour strength and improvement in fire-retardant property as compared to the
conventional two-step sequential dyeing and FR finishing process.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The authors express their sincere thanks to, National Jute Board, MOT, GOI, for grant-in-aid to this institute/Dept.,
for JTM-R&D Project-10(Development of Fire-retardant finishing of jute fabric) and JTM-R&D Project-8
(Computerised colour matching & Print design for jute fabric).
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[1] Prof. (Dr). Ashis Kumar Samanta, is presently Head of the Dept. and Professor in Textile Chemistry of Dept. of Jute and
Fibre Technology of Calcutta University, He is an Eminent Educationist cum Research Scientist in Textile Technology area
specialized in Chemical Processing of Textiles having special expertise and contribution in Natural Dyeing, Functional
finishing, Computer aided Colour Matching and Print design. His academic and research experience span over 27 years with 1.5
years industrial experience. He has contributed more than 180 papers in reputed national and international journals. He also
published 3 important books and 2 international book chapters and 11 training manual. He has taken instrumental role in
implementing more than 16 Govt. Sponsored Projects as Project Investigator/ Coordinator.
He is presently Chairman of National Committee of BIS on dyes and chemicals and many other bodies. He has guided many Ph
D and M Tech scholars. He is also active reviewer of many international journals.
[2] Mrs. Kashmita Bhattacharya did her M Tech in Textile Technology, at present she is pursuing her Ph D under the guidance
of Prof. (Dr). Ashis Kumar Samanta at Calcutta University. She has 5 years of research experience in Textile Technology area
with 2.5 years industrial experience Govt. Textile Mill. She has presented many papers in national and international conferences
and has published 2 research papers in renowned journals.
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Simultaneous Dyeing and Fire-retardant Finishing of Jute Fabric Using an

Article in Textiles and Light Industrial Science and Technology · January 2015

Ashis Kumar Samanta Kashmita Bhattacharya

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Fire Retardant Standards for Jute Based Fabrics View project

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Materials & Methods

NaO3S N=N N=N

CI ACID RED 151 (ACID RED F2R)

Formulation Formulation-A Formulation-B Formulation-C

3) One Step Simultaneous Acid Dyeing and Flame Retardant Finishing

Testing and Evaluation

Where, K = coefficient of absorption.

Results and Discussions

Urea Cyanic acid

(b) HOCN + NH2O SO2NH4 → NH2CO-NHSO3NH4+ NH3

(Ammonium Sulphamate) (Ammonium ureasulphonate)

(c) Jute-Cell-CHO + NH2CO-NHSO3NH4 → Jute-Cell-CH=NCONH-SO3NH4

(d) Jute-Cell-CH2OH + NH4OSO2NH2 → Jute-Cell-CH2-OSO2NH2 + H2O + NH3

Physical properties Flammability properties

Physical properties Flammability properties

Physical properties Flammability properties

Treatments K/S ‫גּ‬max ∆E ∆L ∆a ∆b ∆C ∆H BI MI CDI4 CDImax - min

Treatments K/S ‫גּ‬max ∆E ∆L ∆a ∆b ∆C ∆H BI MI CDI4 CDImax - min

(Nil Control Bleached Jute) 0.756 - - - - - - 38.34 - -

Fastness to wash (ISO II)

TABLE 9. COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS OF COST EFFECTIVENESS

Cost add-on (in Rs) / linear metre

Analysis of Techno-economic Viability and Cost Effectiveness between Conventional Two

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