Tutorial with Recipe & Helpdocs

16 May 2020 Update Diana Gale, star9divine@gmail.com

This document contains several HelpDocs provided in the CPLS Facebook Group: https://bit.ly/2VUqaIV-CPLSFILES
If you are unable to access a HelpDoc, tag an Admin in a post and someone will send it to you by private message. Do not contact
an Admin privately without permission.

BASIC CASTILE CPLS

CPLS = NO HEAT APPLIED: ROOM TEMPERATURE OR LOWER

Before making your soap, please read this entire document carefully. Many details and answers are provided.
If you have a question after reading, please post to the CPLS group.

Recommended Materials
Gloves (nitrile or tight fitting rubber)
Hair Net or Covering
Safety Goggles
Long Sleeves & Pants + Closed Toe Shoes
Plastic Apron
Calibrated Gram Scale
Lye Safe Pitcher
Rubber or Stainless Steel Stirring Utensils
Stick Blender
Measuring Bowls that can hold up to 12 ounces (carefully sanitized plastic yogurt/soup containers work well)
Lye Safe Mixing Container (i.e., a stainless steel pan, an hdpe 4/5 plastic bowl, a cold crock pot bowl)
Paper Towels
Saran Wrap or Wax Paper
Pen & Paper
Camera

Ingredients
New container of Distilled or Bottled Water
KOH (potassium hydroxide lye, usually 90% purity)
Organic Olive Oil (Pomace can be used in a pinch)
Sodium Lactate
70% Rubbing Alcohol in a spray bottle

Create a Recipe at Soapee.com

Go to https://www.Soapee.com and fill out the Recipe fields as shown:
Set the Superfat at 0% or 1% if you prefer
Weight out ingredients using these figures

Make the Soap

Use Extreme Caution & Room Ventilation
Keep Pets & Children Out of the Room
Do Not Leave a Container with Active Lye Accessible!

Important
– Wear closed toed shoes, long sleeves and pants, gloves, apron, and especially a hair net/covering.
– Sanitize gloves, work surfaces, containers and utensils by spraying thoroughly with rubbing alcohol. Re-spray as needed
throughout the entire process. Avoid using unsanitary things like a fluffy kitchen towel, or a wooden spoon.
– Do not get lye powder on your skin. Wipe up a lye powder spill with a wet paper towel, fold several times, and discard in a safe
manner. Do not hover over any lye container, or breathe the fumes. Especially do not get lye liquid on your skin; if you do, rinse
immediately and thoroughly with cold water!

Step 1
Don’t forget to take photos!
1. Place a lye safe pitcher on the scale and press the “Tare” button. Weigh out the Distilled Water amount in the recipe into the
pitcher. Set the Pitcher of water into a clean, empty sink.
2. Weigh out the KOH lye in the same manner. Before moving on, tightly close the lye container and place it where children and
pets cannot reach.
3. Slowly pour the KOH lye into the pitcher of water in the sink; slowly stirring until dissolved. It should bubble and release heat
& fumes.
4. Rinse the stirring spoon and leave the pitcher in the sink. Do not leave the room while it is accessible.
5. Optional: Weigh out 16 grams (4%) Sodium Lactate into a small container, and pour it into the Lye-Water.

NOTE: I do not usually advise a brand new soaper to leave Lye-Water sitting around in a pitcher. For a true CPLS, that is what
you would normally do to allow it to cool. I seal the pitcher with saran and place it in a sink or refrigerator. I always tape on a
note: “DANGER! LYE! DO NOT TOUCH!” Children in the home can greatly increase the danger – please use common sense.
If you DO feel entirely safe, allow your Lye-Water to cool before going on to Step 2.
Step 2
1. Place one of the smaller containers on the Scale. Press the “Tare” button. Weigh out the Olive Oil and add it to the batter
mixing container.
2. Place the container of olive oil in the sink; then slowly & carefully pour the Lye-Water into it. Rinse the lye pitcher thoroughly
before moving on.

(your mixture may or may not look exactly like this)

Step 3
1. Place the end of your stick blender into the oil and lye-water batter and tap it to release trapped air. Blend like you would cake
batter for 3 to 4 minutes, keeping the head of the stick blender under the surface at all times. If bubbles form, spritz them down
with rubbing alcohol.
2. After blending for 3 to 4 minutes, cover the bowl air-tight with saran or a lid, and allow the batter to rest for 30 minutes.
3. If there is a bit of free liquid when you return to the batter, blend again for 3 to 4 minutes, cover and rest for 30. Repeat as
needed until there is no more free liquid.

There is NO NEED TO BLEND CONTINUOUSLY – do not allow your stick blender to heat up.

(Your batter may or may not look exactly like this)

4. While the batter is saponifying, it should become a thick paste. Cover and allow the paste to rest from 12 hours to overnight. It
will reach the Gel Phase at some point, which is necessary to achieve complete saponification. Do not wrap the soap in a towel in
an effort to speed saponification – the point of this method is to soap as cold as possible.

5. Gel Phase is not always translucent. The color of the paste is not important, but if it is dark brown, the temperature may have
been too high during saponification. Do not pour the lye-water until all temps are at or below 100°F (37°C). This paste has
reached gel; it looks and feels normal for a true CPLS:

6. If you are unsure whether saponification is complete, perform a Zap Test (see helpdoc below).

Dilute the Paste

Step 4
1. Sanitize everything with rubbing alcohol, and be sure to wear all safety gear. Don’t forget to write down all weights.
2. Weigh the paste: place a sheet of wax paper or saran on the scale, tare the scale, and spoon the paste on. Write down the weight
& return paste to the bowl.
3. Optional: if you forgot to add Sodium Lactate up front, add 16 grams (4%) to the paste.

4. You’ll be adding approximately 28 oz of dilution water.

Round 1: Weigh out and pour 397 grams [14 oz] distilled water over the paste, cover and rest until it is fully absorbed. Check it
periodically, and break up the paste globs with a sanitized spoon.

Round 2: Add another 397 grams [14 oz] distilled water, cover and rest. If you feel the second 14 oz is too much, feel free to add
a lesser amount! Go by what looks right to you. You can always evaporate excess water later (see directions below).

round 1 round 2

794 grams of dilution water will achieve a 2:1 water to paste ratio. Your ratio may differ slightly, depending on how much water
your paste can hold.

5. Check the thickness by dipping your spoon and allowing the soap to run off. The texture should be similar to a medium honey.
If you feel it is still too thick, stir in more distilled water ½ to 1 oz at a time and allow it to fully absorb before adding more. Near
the end of the process, a few small globs of paste may float to the top of the container. This is normal. Do not continue adding
water hoping the globs will dilute. Mash them on the side of the container with a spoon and stir, or dilute them separately and add
back in.

Total dilution water might go as high as 36 oz (1020 grams). If the soap ends up too watery, don’t panic: cover the bowl and leave
a gap in the covering about the size of a 50 cent piece along one edge. Cover the gap with a clean non-fuzzy cloth or paper towel
to keep out contaminants, and set the bowl aside. Check the soap periodically until the soap returns to the right thickness.

LATHER
This Recipe should lather well. Keep in mind that handcrafted soap often needs a bit more “working” to create lather than a
commercial Syndet. To increase bubbles, consider adding a teaspoon or tablespoon of some type of sugar to the recipe water
before adding the lye. Sodium Lactate is also a lather booster. Lather will also increase if you sequester the soap for 1 to 3 weeks.

NO CURE
CPLS is ready to use immediately; it does not need to cure like a bar soap. Paste and diluted soap can be sequestered for 4 weeks
to 2 months - this will help the pH come down a bit, and will make the soap more mild and bubbly. Paste made with this recipe
can be refrigerated or frozen for up to 1 year: I use a Ziploc freezer bag & squeeze out all of the air.

https://bit.ly/2UZvt9r Video showing the clarity of CPLS sequestered for 2 months.

I highly recommend completing 6 to 7 small batches before attempting a large batch, or adding scent and color.
WHY ISN’T MY CPLS CLEAR?
A true CPLS is not usually clear right away when everything is done at room temperature or below. Time is often how I achieve
better clarity. This 4-oil batch was created on 3 May 2019. As you can see, clarity of this soap improved over a period of 3 weeks.
By 24 May, it was mostly clear.

Day 1. Day 7 Day 14 Day 21

I MESSED UP … SHOULD I THROW OUT MY BATCH?

It is very rare that a batch needs to be discarded. There are ways to troubleshoot almost every problem. Please post your questions
and photos to the CPLS group! https://bit.ly/2YoBmPp-CPLSGroup

HELP DOCS

1. What Is Sodium Lactate? HelpDoc

Sodium Lactate is a Salt. Technically, “sodium salt of lactic acid” Abbreviation: SL

A clear water-soluble, colorless viscous liquid with a neutral pH and a mild odor, SL is edible, widely used, and is not a
“chemical” in the common sense that we use the term. Botanical name: Propanoic acid, 2-hydroxy-, monosodium salt, naturally
derived from the fermentation of sugars found in corn and beets. Available in liquid or powder form, SL is safe in cosmetics, is
not toxic to the environment, and is classified as a non-carcinogen.

SL is a humectant (moisturizer) that adds mildness, moisturizing and conditioning properties to soap, and helps create a more
luxurious lather. SL is usually sold in a 60% vegan friendly liquid solution (sometimes 88% outside the US).

2. ZAP Test HelpDoc

Use caution and always wear gloves from start to finish when handling soap!

What is a Zap Test?

The zap test is a simple combination of soap, finger & tongue. Many soapers use the test to find out if their soap has completed
saponification. Saponification means that all lye is inactive because it has fully combined with the fats in the recipe. The test can
be used with all soaping methods.

Soap can taste sharp and bitter, metallic, salty, and even sweet, depending on ingredients. If you get soap on your tongue, it can
fill your mouth with an awful spreading pungency. The difference between how the soap tastes and how a zap feels is
unmistakable once you have tried the zap test.

Never perform the test if your soap has separated, is weeping, seeping, or you can see CRYSTALS. Be extremely careful when
handling lye heavy soap. A lye-heavy soap, weeping/seeping liquid, and obvious crystals can cause severe burns.

How to Do a Zap Test

Gently touch the soap with a wet gloved finger, and then lightly tap your finger on the tip of your tongue: If the soap has
any remaining lye in it, you’ll feel a definite ZAP! Never lick soap directly with your tongue – always use a gloved finger to
perform the test, and then sterilize or toss the glove.

What does a Zap feel like?

It’s pretty unmistakable. Some say it feels like touching a 9-volt battery to your tongue, which we all probably did as children.
Others say it’s more of an intense burning, tingling sensation. Everyone agrees that Zap! is a really good description, and it’s a
sensation we would usually avoid.

If you perform the test and feel no particularly distressing sensation – there’s no shock at all on your tongue – it’s probable that all
of the lye has been taken up and the soap is safe. IF your soap does zap, allow it to rest for 24 hours and re-test. If it zaps for an
extended period: re-evaluate your recipe, go over your notes and actions to see if a mistake was made, and definitely check the
accuracy of your scale.1

If you have never done a zap test, try it next time you make soap – choose a moment near the end when you know the soap is not
fully saponified, so you can experience a true zap. A safe time to do it is when the soap is completely set up in the mold and only
slightly warm, but not hot. 4 days after unmolding and cutting the soap, do the test again so you’ll experience the difference
between a soap that does zap and a soap that does not.

If you experienced prolonged distress, do not swallow – rinse thoroughly with cold water a couple of times.

Troubleshoot a Zapping Batter or Paste

It is very rare that CPLS batter or paste must be thrown out – there is almost always a way to troubleshoot.
1. Cover and rest a zapping paste for 24-48 hours and then re-test – some batches just take longer to saponify.
2. Sequester the paste for 2 weeks and then re-test. If necessary, sequester for another 2 weeks. By 4-6 weeks most CPLS will
have naturally released any excess lye.
3. Add tiny amounts of oil to take up the excess lye: stir in ½ to 1 tsp at a time, and zap test again after 1-2 hours.
_____________________________
1. A scale should be calibrated regularly. One way is to use U.S. nickels. It’s best to use at least 50 grams for calibration. 10 new-ish (clean) nickels
should weigh 50 grams. If they do not, re-calibrate using the directions that came with it, or replace the scale.

3. Preservatives for Liquid Soap HelpDoc

If you have access to information about an existing or newly-accepted broad-spectrum stand alone preservative for liquid soap,
please send a link and I will add it.

Always check the supplier recommendation for usage rates! To work correctly, a preservative is added as soon as the soap is
fully diluted. Do not wait until after sequestering.

How To Add Preservative

1. Sanitize & gear up as you would when making soap.
2. Measure out the correct amount of Preservative and allow it to come to room temperature.
3. Separate a small amount of soap into a sanitized container. Add the preservative slowly, and stir to mix thoroughly.
4. Cover and allow the preservative + soap mixture to rest for half an hour.
5. Use a spoon or spatula to slowly stir a small amount of the preservative + soap mixture into the larger batch and thoroughly
mix it in before adding another small amount. Continue until all of the preservative + soap mixture has been blended by spoon
into the soap.

These Preservatives are NOT suitable: They are either unstable in a high pH environment, or they do not
address both bacteria AND fungus.
AMTicide
Benzoic acid
Biguanide
Biopol
Conarom
Cosphaderm (all forms)
Dermosoft (all forms)
Euxyl® K 703
Geogard (all forms)
Germaben (all forms)
Iscaguard PEG
Jeecide CAP-5
Leucidal (all forms)
LiquaPar
Naticide
NeoDefend
Nipaguard (all forms of ‘Nip’)
Optiphen (all forms). Note: Optiphen Plus is listed online with this detail: “also proven effective at pH levels above 6.0”, but no
top of range is provided – check with supplier.
Phenonip
PhytoCide Aspen Bark Extract
PhytoCide Elderberry OS
Potassium Sorbate
Rokonsal
Sensicare (all forms)
Silverion 2400
Sodium Benzoate
Spectrastat
Verstatil (all forms)

These Preservatives ARE Suitable for the High pH Environment of Liquid Soap. Some are
not stand-alone, and must be combined with an antifungal!

Euxyl® K 900
Broad spectrum, organic-compliant, based on benzyl alcohol, ethylhexylglycerin and tocopherol, paraben- and formaldehyde-free.
http://www.schulkemicrosites.de/media-cosmetic-preservation/Leaflets/PRI_euxyl-K-900_GB_EN.pdf
INCI: Benzyl Alcohol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
– Usage Rate: 0.5 to 1.1% (Restricted to 1% in the EU & Japan)
– Easy dispersion even at low temperatures.
– Stable to hydrolysis, temperature, and salt content.
– Effective and Stable up to 12 pH.
__________________________
Euxyl® PE 9010
Caution: “Phenoxyethanol” is sold as a stand alone product by different manufacturers, but it should not be used alone; it must be paired with an
antifungal. If Phenoxyethanol is used alone, or at too low a percentage, it will FEED bacteria. Ethylhexylglycerin is usually the one it is paired
with.
A broad spectrum paraben and formaldehyde free preservative effective against both Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria,
yeast and molds.
90.0% Phenoxyethanol and 10% Ethylhexylglycerin.
48 Hour Minimum contact with product is necessary.
Visit lotioncrafter.com for more details.
INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
– Usage Rate: .5% - 1.1% (restricted to 1% in the EU & Japan)
– Stable up to 250°F (120°C)
– Effective and Stable up to 12 pH.
__________________________
Suttocide A
Visit lotioncrafter.com for more details.
INCI: Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate
– Usage Rate: .3 to .5%
– Heat-Sensitive, add at room temperature.
– Effective and Stable from 3.5 pH to 12 pH.
ISSUES: reacts with citral found in citrus essential oils by turning the soap pink to deep red.
__________________________
Liquid Germall Plus
http://makingskincare.com/preservatives
INCI: Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
– Usage Rate: .05 to .5% (some websites give different ranges)
– Heat-Sensitive, add at 122°F (50°C) or below.
– Effective and Stable: Microbiologists have confirmed that Liquid Germall Plus is effective in the high pH environment of
liquid soap, in spite of what the literature may state.
__________________________
4 Synthetic Preservatives that MAY be Suitable (check with the supplier to be sure!)
These are Broad Spectrum. Use ONLY in a wash-off product with a pH range of 2 to 12:
1. Dermasoft OMP (unlimited pH)
2. Neolene (forms 950, CapG, DsP, and PE)
3. Phenosept (pH 3.5-12)
4. Phenosept PG

EU Cosmetic Ingredient List (look up any ingredient by individual name): https://bit.ly/2KZA2Lb-Ingredients

4. Check Group Files for “Diana’s EO & FO Scent Tests” & Other HelpDocs

© Copyright, All Rights Reserved. Diana Gale, Star 9 Divine Beauty & Bath, LLC. Do Not Copy or Translate without Permission.