A Peppy V-Bottom Knockahout / “CONGA’ i for the novice, this little }op presents no complica the average in- n eanfidence, ev neve s whittled out a tay boat befors Conga has the additional advantage of ft in which te she is stable easy to handle, She with hand tools, o inable locally almost ‘The drawings accompanying are unusually complete and detailed—for this reason the text will be kept to A careful study of the plans and list of materials should, by themselves, enable you ssfully construct this sailboat It upside down, on being an excellent ¢ the fundament well-balanced 3= —— BRON LE a | | -—___—-zsy \T rae soe oar ERS SS FT sh aus ru wot siege aemgmeames gy 'SHPRS Gace Len ach suencars or inert ae arbor Sok vane etn eNPne er FE semuce wartos 5 Bicervissenaaens, 7 (robe wants RESTON) biseersonee para La 20g] Yer WoaK srunt ‘Tau Lewerm or TRUNK oar cans Lo (homate rune heen uBuceine ge reves aNe BReone See | |98 thse =er f \ ae) gatas Be rmcseroust ese arsneen PE aust one zt FRAME No.4 ~ Loonie Fw — é a When beveling the frames he sure us Beval the Jarnad edges of Now. and 2, andthe aft eden of 4 and. 3. (ee). Abpves Closeup ‘of teckpin. Note how ieee mar’ be adjusted “for heinhr ‘om iy own isle section? of wall era. a afires #4 nes —> KEEL Id SECTION a level floor or wooden frame made for the purpose. When cutting the boat's side frames, each one is allowed to extend 12” beyond the specified sheer line, and these extensions act as props or bases for the whole framework to rest upon, at a convenient working height, First draw the frames, tran som, stem and centerboard bed logs actual size on heavy paper or thin plywood, from the di- mensions given in the plans. It is not necessary to reproduce the whole boat full-size. Make up the frames, cutting the mem- bers to fit accurately on your 4 set tt ie nase Lines > cur srew nme now 2'x 11x36" woan on vPINEnines ernie Saale ees Sea Ley ten neces oY =i at ———i_«~_TRANSOPY DETAILS eurercen — Li Lt Plot all joines thoroughly afore suembly. The transam frame ‘abould be" pa i Soper) the. tenrems Below ee dcoritg eae {ily une you are familarvith ave fenming theme of the fal drawing, Do not cut the required notches for keel, chines and battens at this time, as this task is much more easily and correctly accomplished later, on the job. The bevels on frames and transom are also best cut after frames have been set up. Mark each frame piece for identification purposes, then cut the floor timbers and gussets as indicated, of white oak or 34” marine plywood. Don’t forget to cut the limber notches. Assemble the frames, se fata DECK & DECK FRAMING PLAN FORESTER — ut QAtrHN, yet rant Te 123LINES AND SAIL PLAN xsineetenp / / SARE URE. Tana’ BA SIDE. BODY PLAN hase oy cl iS KY | eee naen SY | eee SN 5° Oaasssreer, BY | (anes ave BY | ester) ~ vera 1" Se AND EIGHTHS TO INSIDE OF FLANKING {H08 We FOAL, OURAN Oraieaie) Masta! x 3 SITKA ‘SPRUCE, I NOTE: Give Lurr oF “ia a howe PER semen \\ ‘Shere ae + SLATS SEWED IN <\\ i ae \ OPPOSITE Line f NOTE.-LINES PROFILE & t HALF BREAOTH LINES TO | | tase OF Fanning ano | TO THE REEL RABGET LINE HALE SIDING OF HEEL BATTENusing serews or and painting all joints. Deck beams may be eut at this time, all to the same crown, as shown. Make the deck braces too and fasten beams and braces to frames, ‘The transom comes next, and x you must be careful to allow enough material around the edges for the forthcoming bevels—overall dimensions in the transom plan allow for these. The above, incidentally applies to all the frames, also, Allow the cheek pieces to stick out the proper distance beyond the sheer, so the transom will set up in correet relationship to the frames, Build up the stem, allowing extra length on this, too, and carefully cut a preliminary rabbet, not tao deep. The rab- beting will be finished later, The next task is to build up the keel and keelson. The sta- tion positions and center-board rivets, slot should be clearly marked | RU/JUER on the wood. The width of the | severe f Jatter depends on the board you | intend using—allow 4” clear ance for a metal board and 3%” for a wooden one. After cut- ‘ting the slot, fit a slatted brass strip on the outside, inlaying it in the wood and screwing in place. This makes a neat job and reduces water frietion Now cut the trunk logs, matching them up carefully on the drawing. The logs must exactly follow the rocker shape of the keel, to which they will be screwed or bolted. The trunk sides are doweled together, using casein or marine glue as binder, Each side is then fitted to its respective log, and the whole assembled as one unit. Now No. 2 frame can be notched and fitted to trunk logs, hardware secured in place, filler pieces attached and mast step mortice cut, The whole works, stem, keel, cb. logs and trunk should be assembled as one unit, on the frames, which have been set up square and plumb, and braced, The transom is then added. Fair up the framework with long bat- tens to be sure it is true, Cut the notches in the frames for chines and stringers, or battens, giving them their correct bevels. Notches raust also be cut in stom, and transom cheek ie"teneersbeard na cazmam roars 70 Beer sie rTawaaae 208 Tay soos ro —_ | Ber ie oraer Med oe aye screwed to kecton ang coed femme ah ea Manchip here will insure suatnat Teas round the tank Tater: een peaws 18 x/4— ALL CUT TO SAME Tums wit ia" Pe oOT BEAM CRO soernames Ht OF ned Toad Bofere installing: Bolt i chagrin ‘Good work [ts senbon BB pieces. Bend owe cue arene in chines, SECTION THRU C8. TRUNK ASSBLK. ete battens, screwing in place at each notch. You can now cut all outside bevels, and plane the protruding edges of the keelson to the proper slope. Complete the stem tabbet and paint the whole framework before starting to plank. Begin with the plank next to the keel (gar- board), fitting it earefully into the stem rabbet and along the keelson. Allow the end to pro- ject over the transom, to be cut off later. This plank reaches from the keel to the center of the first batten, The remaining planks go from center to center of the other battens. The edges, which should be painted heavily, must be square and fit closely (about <4” seam), no allowance for caulking being needed. Proceed with the planking alter- nately, first a strake on one side, then the other, toequalizethe strain. Place serewsabout [Continued on page 145) LzConga [Continued from page 127] 216” apart, staggering them so they don’t fall opposite one another. Bore and countersink all holes for 34” No, 8 screws. The outermost plank on each side of the bottom should over- | hang the chine by 34”, so it will lap the side planking. The latter is next fitted in place and screwed down. Saw off the plank ends at the transom and plane flush. Plug the screw holes, sand the planking smooth and apply a prim- ing coat of paint. The hull can now be turned rightside up. Cut the cockpit stringers and secure them in place, checking carefully with a light batten to be sure the deck beams fair up. This done, you can lay the decking, screwing or nailing it in place. Plane and sand down any rough spots and give the deck a coat of paint. While the paint is still tacky spread canvas over it, stretching the canvas tightly and tacking it down just below the sheer. Cover the edges with half-round moulding. Cut the deck trim and screw in place. The plans show all details of rudder and tiller. Make them up, paint and set aside to dry. Top grade Sitka spruce should be used for the spars. Follow the plans on these, and when complete give three coats of good spar varnish.Bill of Materials, CONGA Keel—1 pe., yellow pine or fir, /3"x5"x13' 0”. Keel batten—1 pe., yellow pine or fir, g"K5" 13" 0". Stem piece—1 pce., white oak or yellow pine, 11°x36”", Trunk logs—2 pes., white oak or spruce, 134"x6"x8" 0”. *Frames—7"x2" stock. Oak. *Floor timbers—7"x4" stock. White oak or fir. *Deck beams—Cut from 73"x4" white oak. *Seam battens—!5"x144" spruce. *Chiner and sheer battens—%%"x13«" white oak or yellow pine or spruce. Trunk sides—2 pcs., mahogany or pine, ¥4"x8"x3". * Compute footage from plans. PLANKING Sides: 2 pes., Philippine mahogany (if procurable) \4)"x13"x13', or 14” Super-Harbord Bottom: mahogany or cedar, ;),"x6"x13'. mahogany or cedar, yx 6x12" . mahogany or cedar, ).”x6"x10'. mahogany or cedar, s "x6"x8". 1 pe. Philippine mahogany or cedar, %"x12"x39". 1 pe., Philippine mahogany or cedar, 7%/"x6"x36". Decking: ¥6"x3" (Or nearest stock size) T. & G. sheathing. Or 34” Super-Harbord to suit. A few feet of 2"x2" stock for transom seam batten; some ¥4°x115" for crunk log filler, preferably white oak and one piece 1”x8"x6" white oak for deck stringer. Rudder—*4" (better 74") white oak, size to suit plans given. Coaming and trim to suit, HARDWARE AND RIGGING MATERIALS 1 Va gross No. 8 2'/2" brass or galv. F. H. woodscrews. 2 gross No. 6 11/2" brass or galv. FE. H. woodscrews. 2 gross No. 6 114" brass or galv. F. H. woodscrews. 8 gross No. 8 34.” brass or galv. F. H. woodscrews. 4 fy’x2'4” bolts, *brale or galv. for stem joint. 2 doz. \{\"x1'" bolts, brass or galv. for trunk Jong joints. 1 doz. 174 V4" brass or galv. corner irons foc trunk log joints with floor timbers (cut off to suit).