I.

INTRODUCTION
Palawan is one of the largest and longest landmasses in the southwestern part of the Philippine
archipelago, connecting Luzon, Visayas and Mindanao through various islands and islets. It has
a very rich and diverse cultural, geological and ecological treasure. It traces its history even
beyond the dawn of known civilization and history in the country. It was part of the migratory
route from northern Borneo to mainland Lusong (Luzon) through land bridges. Prehistoric
settlements were discovered in Tabon Cave, south of Palawan that dates back around 50,000
BCE. Some of the early inhabitants of Palawan are the Molbog, Taut’ Bato, Batak Palaw’an and
the Tagbanwa. Over the centuries, Palawan has been identified by through various names by
different European cartographers, such as Paloban by Giovanni Battista Ramussio, Pulnam by
Johanes Schooner, Pulaoam by Antonio Pigafetta, Bazacata de Ptolemy by Gerardus Mercator ,
and finally Paragua (literally meaning “umbrella”) by the Spanish colonizers. Palawan became a
rich ethnic fusion of ancient history, religion, tribal belief and western influences.

During the Spanish colonial rule in the Philippines, one of the largest and strategic fortifications
is clustered around the Calamianes group of islands in the northern part of Palawan, with the
likes of Cuyo, Culion, Agutaya and Linapacan. The Islas de Calamianes was the strategic galleon
trade and pirates route during ancient times, the calm sea and the rich resources from the
islands are inviting to both traders and invaders. It was essential to establish the military
strongholds on these islands because it also served as the first line of defense from pirates and
invaders coming from southern Mindanao to Manila, the capital of the archipelago, as well as
to protect and defend the ancient kingdom of Taytay, as the capital of the La Provincial de
Paragua.

II. THE KINGDOM OF TAYTAY

The ancient town Taytay derived its name from "taytayan", a wooden or bamboo walkway used
by the natives that served as a connecting bridge from one nearby coastal area to another.
Taytay was earlier inhabited by the indigenous Tagbanwa tribe.

Later, Taytay became part of the vast land and naval territory of the Royal Sultanate of Brunei
and its embassy, the Sultanate of Sulu that stretches its domain from Pulaoam (now Palawan)
to the Kingdom of Mayniad (Manila) in the 14th century. Ancient Muslim genealogy revealed
that all the sultans and rahas from this vast Muslim empire in the Philippines during the 15 th
century were all related by blood or by royal marriages.

They traveled along using large wooden ships called Balangay, and settled in a area near the
coast or river entry to build their wooden palisade called Kuta (fort) to enclose and protect the
residence of the royal family. A Torogan, a large majestic residence is built at the center of the
enclosure that would serve social, military, diplomatic and judicial function room for the
sovereign subjects and guests. Adorned with wooden artistically carved Panolong, or protruded
beam, it symbolizes the monarch’s hierarchy to the kingdom. The kuta and Torogan are fiercely
protected by their loyal warriors.
Exchange of goods or barter trade was practiced during this period from other villages/ town or
across other Malayan kingdom and as far as the imperial China. Such trade goods included
pottery, ceramics, jewelry, textiles, gold, precious stones and other valuable materials.

The royal family members of the Kingdom of Taytay was adorned with colorful and artistic
dresses, precious stones and jewelry as a symbol of royalty and sophistication, their social
ranking was best expressed on their costumes, body tattoos and piercings. Royal family
members, scholars, diplomatic and trade officials are required to read and write the ancient
form of indigenous and distinct writing called Baybayin, as well as the Arabic writings, as the
main forms of written communications in the kingdom and beyond the seas.

By the beginning of the 16th century, the kingdom of Taytay is a vibrant cultural and ethnic
society, with rich trade, commerce, social hierarchy, judicial order, diplomacy, agriculture, a
seafaring community, ruled by powerful Datu and his warriors. Taytay became the melting pot
of indigenous tribes of ethnic origin, customs, beliefs and traditions of the monarchial Muslim
Palawan.

The first western historical mention of Taytay came from the Italian chronicler, Antonio
Pigafetta, after the death of Portuguese explorer, Ferdinand Magellan in Mactan, Zebu (Cebu)
in the hands of the warriors of Muslim chieftain Datu Lapu Lapu in 1521. In their attempt to find
a route to circumnavigate the world, the Vittoria (Victoria), the flagship from the expedition of
Magellan under the new commander, Capitan Juan Sebastian de Elcano continued the voyage
to the northern part of Pulaoam (Palawan). Pigafetta wrote that they anchored in Porto de
Taitai (Taytay), met Datu Maamud, The chieftain of Taytay, he was the nephew of Sultan
Bolkiah, the king of Brunei, and Sultan Aminul Umara, the King of Sulu and Raha Matanda of
Selurong (Manila}. They made a blood ritual signifying their friendship and alliances. Elcano’s
troops went on to gather provisions for the succeeding trips, and narrated the rich agricultural
and fishing bounties of the town, Pigafetta even recorded his first sightings of cockfight as a
means of gambling by the natives. However, Capitan Elcano invited Datu Maamud and his wife
to their ship for a journey towards Muslim territories of southern Palawan, Sulu and Brunei to
assure safe passages on these areas. Capitan Elcano’s expedition and his crew sailed on to
complete the first recorded and historic circumnavigation of the world.

Antonio Pigafetta named the town of Taytay, La Tierra de Promision, the Land of Promise.

More than a hundred years later, thru a joint military and religious expedition led by
Augustinian Recollects Fray Francisco de San Nicolas. Fray Ezekiel Moreno (now St. Ezekiel
Moreno), Fray Diego Sta. Ana and Hermano Francisco de la Madre de Dios formally established
the town of Taytay and converted the town into Christianity in 1623. They dedicated the town
to Sta. Monica, the Mother of St. Augustine of Hippo, and the Patron of the Augustinians
Recollects.

The Spanish authority built a new wooden fort in 1626 on top of a hill, near the shores, led by
“El Padre Capitan”, Fray Agustin de San Pedro, an Augustinian Recollect as both their
missionary and military headquarter.
In 1662, Chinese notorious pirate and rebel leader Koxinga (Zheng Chenggong) attacked and
briefly settled in Taytay as his dominion, including the Islas de Calamianes until 1663. Spanish
missionaries and military personnel immediately moved to Cavite. However, Muslim troops
have retaken Taytay from the Chinese pirate control until 1683 when Spanish authority finally
reclaimed the town and the Calamianes from Muslim occupation.

Over the ensuing years, the repeated attacked by both Muslim invaders in their efforts to
reclaim their old territory, and Chinese pirates trying to gain control on trade routes, constantly
caused severe damages on the wooden fort. This prompted the Spanish authority to build a
more enduring and powerful fortification made of Gasang (coral stones) and limestone, to
solidly defend the town and administer its authority in the vast area now known as Provincia de
Paragua

III. BUILDING THE ISLAND FORTRESS

The original plan was studied and designed in 1721 by a military engineer from Spain stationed
in Manila named Antonio Fernandez de Rojas, as he was stationed in Calamianes as his
command post. The design was commissioned upon the orders of Spanish Gobernador Heneral
Fernando Manuel Bustillos to project a beacon of naval power of Spain in the scenic Baho de
Taytay (Bay of Taytay)

Fernandez de Rojas studied the possible sites of the future stone fort, and noted two; one on
the top of a hill in which there was the earlier fort called "kuta" and another on a mogote (flat-
topped hillock) that advanced towards the sea, in the eastern part of the town. For each of
them, he traced a fortification plans in the two months he spent in this place.

The repeated attacks on the fort forced the Spanish Bernardo de lliumbe (mayor of Calamianes)
to raise the necessity of making it a stone fort, and in a Board of War held in Manila on March
12, 1723 it was agreed to erect it in the second of the sites studied by Fernandez de Rojas, who
was present, and according to the plan he outlined "with sufficiency and well-known knowledge
in that advanced art "; He offered at once to provide a copy of the design he made of that fort,
"with its scale and explanation," for the greater and clearer knowledge in the building of the
fort."

The Board of War sends the plans prepared by Don Antonio Fernandez de Roxas to King Philip V
of Spain for approval, and immediately commenced for the construction of the island fort. King
Philip V gave his approval and designed the heraldic coat-of-arms of Fort Sta. Isabel de Paragua,
and ordered the carving of the symbol at the wall of the Puerta de la Fuerza or fort entrance,
together with the images in relief of St. Francis, Nuestra Senora Maria Auxilladora de los
Christianos, and San Anton de Padua, representing the Augustinian Recollects religious
authority. The Fuerza de Sta. Isabel de Paragua was named and dedicated to Santa Isabel,
mother of St. John the Baptist, the Patron of the Spanish Royal family during that time, and was
made the capital of the vast province of Paragua (now Palawan).
In 1739, as written in the report by Spanish military cartographer, Fernando Valdez Tamon in
entitled REPORT In which by order of His Catholic Majesty (May God Protect Him),the
strongholds, castles, forts and garrisons of the province under His Royal Dominion in the
Philippine Island are listed...he described it as follows.

It stands on a cliff, some 24 feet high, overlooking as and bank, and at high tide the fort is
totally isolated. It is an irregular, quadrilateral construction consisting of 96-foot long
stonework curtain wall, with two collateral bastions. The other three walls were a double
palisade with an embankment. The two remaining bastion, which until recently were in need of
repair, are now being rebuilt and restored to the original state, as far as the irregularity of the
rocks permit…

The Fort Sta. Isabel de Paragua, consisted of several structures of wooden and thatched roof
materials mainly for military and defense such as Cuerpo de Guardia (Guard building), Vivienda
del Cargo (Fort’s In Charge Office), Almagazen del Viveres (Food supply storage), aljibe (cistern),
Alamagazen de Polvora (gunpowder storage), Cozinas del Castellano y Soldades (Mess room for
Spanish soldiers). Eighty nine Spanish officers and soldiers manned the fort, with an annual
budget of 1290 pesos and 534 fanegas (sacks) of rice allocation. The four Garitas (guard posts)
guarding the four bastions became a symbolic military and naval might of Spain with
corresponding names; San Toribio, San Juan, San Miguel and Sta. Isabel, the patron of the
fortress.

It was completed under the command of Spanish military engineer, Don Fernando Velez de
Arce, through the efforts of his construction workers consisted of prisoners from other towns in
the archipelago. Fort Sta. Isabel was an island fortress detached from the mainland of Taytay
more than 100 meters during high tide, but passable during low tide. The military garrison was
constructed across the fort near the shores; however, it was later converted into the Church of
Sta. Monica, the patroness of the fort and the town. The Sta. Monica Church is the second
largest remnant among the Spanish heritage structures in Taytay.

IV. LIFE IN THE FORT

After the completion, the fort was manned by a Spanish Infantry Captain, Don Jose Mauricio.
He served both as Alcalde Mayor and Gobernadorcillo de Paragua. Spanish authorities from
Manila issued an outline of weapons and supplies for its operation, such as 7 bronze cannons
and 3 small Lantakas ( small portable canons), 2 bronze half culverins handguns, 20 iron siege
gun, 8 bronze stone-throwing engines and 20 chambers, 2,550 artillery balls, 283 loaded iron
grenades, 46 empty iron grenades, 55 harquebus (portable gun supported on a tripod), musket
and pinzote balls and 200 arrobas ( unit of weight) of gunpowder to the two regiments,
Infanteria Espanola (Spanish Infantry) led by Capitan Pedro Sebastian Gomez, and Infanteria
Pampanga (Pampanga Infantry) with 25 soldiers, 3 armor and drum bearers.

During the 18th century, several Muslim war boats attacked Taytay and the town was fiercely
defended by Fort Sta. Isabel. One of the notable native heroes was Don Geronimo Sundulion, a
municipal officer, during the 21 days siege of Taytay by the Moro pirates in 1739, The pirates
asked him to point the secret passages of the fort, but instead, exposed the pirates to the forts’
sentry, thus pre-empting their plan for a surprise attack. The pirates tortured and eventually
killed him; Don Geronimo Sundulion saved the local town folks and Spanish soldiers from
further aggressions. Sundulion was considered the first recorded hero of Taytay.

Several maritime expeditions were sent to Taytay by various European countries in hope of
conquest, scientific and trade purposes between the 17th and 19 th century. Dutch Naval officer,
Jacob Van Neck (1600-1604) ,Italian cartographers Giovanni Francesco and Gemelli Careri
(1696), British captain, sir William Draper (1759), French captain Alfred Marche’ (1844-1898)
and British Naval Officer and surveyor, Captain William Thorton Bate between 1852-1854. He
drew the entire island of Paragua and even anchored in Taytay Bay under his command ship,
HMS Royalty.

In summary, the Fuerza Sta Isabel de la Paragua was a unique miniature “Walled City”, a
fortress built on top and around a limestone island outcrop, a Spanish military structure, not
only as a fortification but more importantly as Spanish provincial command post, the center of
the religious, naval headquarter and provincial capital of Paragua, all within the fort, it became
the seat of Gobierno Alcadia-Mayor de Calamianes in 1851, and later in 1858 became the seat
of Gobierno Politico-Militar de Paragua.

Over the ensuing centuries, the Fort Sta. Isabel de Paragua has successfully defended the town
of Taytay, however, due to the inevitable degradation of the fort, aging, and later abandonment
of the Spanish controlling the province, the fort has slowly deteriorated. Towards the end of
the 19th century, much of the structures on top of the fort are already in ruins, and the Spanish
authority converted the Vivienda del Cargo (Fort’s Captain Office) into a chapel dedicated to
Sta. Monica. It became both the military and religious beacon of the town of Taytay and the
Calamianes islands.

In 1884, Spanish colonial investment in Paragua (Palawan) started in Taytay, the establishment
of the agricultural and processing of Azucar, Marca Paragua and later, in 1892, the
international trade and Commerce Company named Compania Anonima de Explotacion y
Colonization de la Ysla de Paragua.

By the end of the 19 th century, the last chieftain of the former kingdom of Taytay was
Christianized, His Majesty, Datu Flores Delos Santos Cabaylo I. He belonged to the long line of
Muslim rulers that traces its lineage from the royal family of Brunei and Sulu in Taytay that
befriended the earlier Spanish forces of Capitan Elcano and Pigafetta.

However, due to the persistent attacked from the Moros and Chinese pirates over the period of
years, the Spanish authority strategically transferred its capital to Cuyo in 1873, then later to
the newly established Puerto Princesa, located in the middle part of the Provincia de Paragua.

By this time, the former provincial capital of the entire province of Palawan was transformed
into Presidio Municipal. In the 1880s, a new Spanish edificio municipal, designed by Obras
Publicas was built outside but nearby the fort, and a prominent native of the town became the
first Capitan Municipal, Don Fernando Santo Domingo from 1876 to 1880. However, it already
started the slow decline of the old town and affected both its military, economic and religious
affairs towards the end of the 19th century until the dawn of the 20th century.

Spanish colonial rule in Taytay for over 200 years towards the 1870s brought about “peace” in
the entire region, with exception of sporadic Muslim raids and pirates, the daily life in Taytay
was generally serene, but wanting for a nationalist call.

V. SPIRIT OF NATIONALISM
The literary novels of Nationalist, Dr. Jose Rizal’s Noli Me Tangere and El Filibusterismo became
a profound inspiration for Filipinos longing for independence in the hands of oppressive Spanish
colonizers. The mutiny inside Cavite’s Fort San Felipe arsenal causing the execution of the
Trece Martires (13 Martyrs) spread like a wildfire that several Filipino patriots were implicated
and sent to Taytay for imprisonment inside Fort Sta. Isabel. One mutineer that was imprisoned
in the fort was Don Ruperto Lacsamana from Mabalacat, Pampanga in 1897. However,
Lacsamana’s native “kapampamgan dialect” enabled him to secretly communicate to the
officers of the Infanteria de Pampangas manning the Fort. He was able to convince his fellow
kapampangan to revolt against the Spanish authority in the fort as well as in the municipality of
Taytay.

There were gunfire’s and explosion within the fort premises , and after days of fighting, the
Spanish Guardia Civil and religious clergies left the town leaving the burned and destroyed
fort under the command of Filipino revolutionary soldiers, thus, ending the almost three
hundred years of Spanish rule in Taytay.

On June 18, 1898, a few days after establishment of the revolutionary government of Gen.
Emilio Aguinaldo, he appointed Don Estevan Causapin of Taytay as Head of Revolutionary
Troops in Palawan, and in March 24, 1899, during the Malolos Congress, President Emilio
Aguinaldo appointed Don Hermogenes Constantino as Commsionado de Paragua, and was
stationed in the presidio municipal of Taytay.

However, efforts for self-rule and independence was short lived, and in the ensuing days, the
political, religious and military landscape of Taytay will be change dramatically towards the end
of the 19th century.

During the late 19th century, Spain seceded the Philippines to the United States, and in the early
20th century much of the original structures inside and on top of the fort was already
destroyed, the once- heavily fortified structures is now in ruins, only the adobe outline on the
grass landscape served as a silent reminder of its once proud, powerful and glorious history.

With a coming of a new century, came new colonial rule.

VI. AMERICAN PERIOD

The American troops arrived in Taytay in 1899; the US 1 st Separate Brigade Unit led by
Commander Marcus Miller arrived from Iloilo with 45 officers and 1230 army. By this time much
of the Spanish structures inside the forts were already gone, they immediately replaced the
outdated guns and cannons of the fort and also developed a barracks for the American troops
outside of the fort and within the inland of Taytay. The fort now served as military bulwark,
observation deck, garrison and lighthouse all in one. The land bridges connecting the fort to the
main land was also reclaimed for easy access of officers, troops and provisions around the fort’s
premises. The Presidente Municipal of Taytay during the arrival of the American was Don
Pantaleon Madarcos between 1895 to 1901.

During the American occupation, the name of the province formally changed from Paragua to
Palawan. Much of the troops were stationed in Puerto Princesa and Isla de Balabac due to the
constant threat of the Muslim raid from Sulu, the stronghold of the Sultanate of Sulu. However,
a peaceful agreement was forged between the sultanate of Jolo and the American authorities in
1901 that lasted for many years. The entire province progress during this period both in
economy and trade with the introduction of lumber, fisheries, and other agricultural resources.

Taytay became the symbolic “cultural center” of Palawan because of its unique history as a
former pre-colonial ancient kingdom and an old Spanish provincial capital. The native called
Tagbanwa became integral part of the new society, while the native dialect of Cuyunin was also
spoken in larger part of the northern Palawan and the Calamianes Islands. The story and myth
about the old town and the old fort endured until the outbreak of the World War II in 1941

VII. WORLD WAR II IN TAYTAY

Don Francisco Alli was the Municipal Mayor in 1941 during the Japanese occupation in Taytay
from 1942 to 1945. The division from the Imperial Japanese 14 th Area Army utilized the fort for
military and naval purposes and converted the old chapel of Sta. Monica into a Shinto shrine for
the most part of their occupation. In 1944, Fort Sta. Isabel became the outpost of the Japanese
Imperial General Headquarter in the northern Palawan region, and later, the Imperial 1 st Special
Forces Division in 1945. It became a highly strategic military communication facility for the
Japanese forces.

During the outbreak for the liberation of the Philippines in 1945, Gen. Douglas MacArthur
officially designated to reclaim Palawan under the operation code name VICTOR I and II,
between February to April of 1945. Guerilla movement was initiated to retake the fort from
Japanese controlled led by Palawan heroes Capt. Carlos Amores, Maj. Pablo Muyoc known as
Palawan Special Battalion 6th Military District with Alfred and Paul Cobb, Higinio Mendoza, with
Allied Intelligence Bureau Jesus Villamor, and HQ SWPA, Charles Parsons. With the arrival of the
Allied troops, the US 8th Army Regimen under Lt. Gen. Robert Eichelberger, coupled with the
heroic exploits of some local heroes from Taytay, the town and the fort was successfully
reclaimed. It became a strategic victory for the liberation of the entire Palawan province,
ending the hostilities of the war in the Philippines and in the Pacific.
 VIII. TOWARDS THE END OF THE 20TH CENTURY
By the second half of the 20th century, Don Agapito Calalin became the first Municipal Mayor of
war-damaged Taytay from 1945-1947, He immediately acted upon the reconstruction and
rehabilitation of his town and the fort itself. A municipal building was reconstructed as well as
the basic needs of his townsfolk. Over the ensuing decades, the now damaged Sta. Isabel
Chapel stood as a profound symbol of failure and neglect. It lost its roof due to strong typhoons
and monsoons passing northern part of Palawan every year. Finally abandoning the fort
premises, catholic leaders later converted the old Spanish military cuartel outside the fort and
transferred the church of Sta. Monica there, it became the Apostolic Vicariate of Taytay.

Over the years, several private activities were undertaken inside the fort, such as archeological
excavations, treasure diggings and more, all in the efforts to study the underlying valuable
resources from the fort. However, it left the fort in much greater state of dilapidation.

During the term of Mayor Roberto Rodriguez; the initial phase to restore the fort and to
construct the fort museum and tourism office was realized. The immediate area in front of the
fort was reclaimed from the sea, making the fort now connected to the mainland of Taytay.

The rehabilitation effort gave the renewed spirit for the people of Taytay , and inspired by
faith and hope that one day, the Fortress of Sta. Isabel de Paragua will be fully restored,
protected and preserve, and it will be part of the living built heritage in the country for the
generations to come, a symbol of national pride and patrimony.

IX. ESTRELLA DEL NORTE HERITAGE DEVELOPMENT PROJECT

The Estrella Del Norte or Northern Star became an adopted name of Taytay, in the 1990s, and
it also served as a beacon of hope, aspirations and historical significance for the citizen of
Taytay. With the same beam of stellar inspiration, the new leaders, government workers,
private and youth sectors will now be moving toward one direction of fulfilled destiny.

Through the shared vision and initiative of Honorable Mayor Romy Salvame, Vice Mayor
Christian Rodriguez and the members of the Sangguniang Bayan ng Taytay, Palawan, the future
of the Estrella Del Norte Heritage Development Project will now be realized.

The imminent restoration and conservation of Fort Sta. Isabel de Paragua and the Sta. Isabel
Chapel will be a reality for the generations to come as the nucleus and the soul of the project.
The Taytay Tourism Office together with the Taytay Municipal Engineering Office and with the
guidance of the National Historical Commission of the Philippines (NHCP), will undertake the
necessary processes to ensure the quality and authenticity of the restoration. Additional
amenities will be introduce inside the forts such as interactive museum, gift and coffee shop
selling locally produced items to further promote the colorful and vibrant industry, art and
foods of Taytay. It will embody the collective aspiration of Taytay for their Fort Sta. Isabel
Heritage District.

REFERENCES

REPORT IN WHICH, BY ORDER OF HIS CATHOLIC MAJESTY (MAY GOD PROTECT HIM) the strongholds,
Castles, Forts and Garrisons of the Provinces under His Royal Dominion in the Philippine island are Listed
Fernando Valdes Tamon
Prologue and transcripted by Mariano Cuesta and Violeta Infante
Santander Investment, Publisher, 1995

FORTRESS OF THE EMPIRE, Spanish Colonial Fortification of the Philippines

Rene R. Javellana, author
Bookmark Publishing, 1997
100 EVENTS THAT SHAPED THE PHILIPPINES
Adarna House and National Centennial Commission, 1998

ARQUITECTURA ESPANOLA EN FILIPINAS

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LOST ERA
Ramon Zaragoza
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OLD MANILA
Ramon Zargoza
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THE PHILIPPINE IMAGES OF THE PAST

Ramon Zaragoza
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PHILIPPNE INSTITUTE OF ARCHITECTS, SEVENTY YEARS OF HISTORY

Joel Rico
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BALUARTE
Joel Rico
Philippine Institute of Architects Publishing, 2015

KATUTUBO, MUSLIM, KRISTYANO: Palawan 1621-1901

Nilo S. Ocampo, 1984

HISTORY OF PALAWAN
Diokno Manlavi, 1970

PALAWAN’S FIGHTING ONE THOUSAND

Diokno Manlavi, 1976

MAPPING THE PHILIPPINE SEAS

Exploration and Discovery of the Philippines Archipelago as the nexus of regional and global trading
networks from the16th to the 19th centuries
Philippine Map Collectors Society (PHIMCOS)

ENCYCLOPEDIA OF PHILIPPINE
PAMANA

FILIPINO BUILDING BELIEFS

Ernesto Zarate, 2000

PHILIPPINE CARTHOGRAPHY, 1320--1899

Carlos Quirino, 1959
N. Israel Amsterdam, 1959, 1963

BARANGAY
Sixteenth Century Philippine Culture and Society
Willaim Henry Scott
Ateneo de Manila