Buoy Buoy - uopu07 « Lesiep man «asodeOUIg OUNUSIOS PHOM:! vsn. ones wawusdsg shenLerey Jaquag ysseasoy Ouuzauiduy feseo9 SoysnE “y waa71g ONTITANIONG IVISVOO NI /SANOINHOLL AMOLVAOPYT CNV STAGON TVOISKHA R (o1eneI0q ‘atun) 1ysexeqoy esungony pue (suReIUeD BD “A ) BBe507 ¥ fanbiy Ag seneM JeuSBy Uopeejo‘d 46} Sean ReMBOD PU uB}EEq (epuois “aun) ueeg © weqoL Aq eonoetg pu Kloot, qUaUYuNON Yoeeg ‘eNUN nyeweN) oinus Ngo PUB (UOIBUIYsEA ‘NNA) HOA ALIEH Po wetgneg Aun) MOUS eRRED "AUN HRLOO) 7 47 A Aa nny puis 9 "nUn) BOOKA by UBy Ay 86M Jo [BS038I9 Yee ) suewebug Mm uaLeeyy La suoHeg UeEReUN 49AO uoNEBE sn -senp Buwooyvog Len, 3A 3A ) uodsuel, jususpes pur sioXe7 Arepunog WoUOd FISeCD TOA, (rewueg “Aun yee) preebieg Joy puE evspes4 Uebsap Aq odsusi] wowypes (e1e009 jo soUBSeR Een S/N 81% A orchid v weqou SISQUEIOG PUE Si9EUIGUN 10) SONVEYOSA 9ABZA JAEM 210A acy dud | yeno-ursoup3 seues | DNIUZSNIONS NV3OO NO SSIWaS GaONVAGY [Fis poblished 1993 -iscrepent 1995, PHYSICAL MODELS AND LABORATORY TECHNIQUES IN COASTAL ENGINEERING Scientific Publishing Co, Pe. Lad. ts ther yet be reproduced iam form by ay photocopying: recording or any information sore end Pe ed, thou writen permtslon from the Publisher (ob) Printed in Singapore, ‘To my wife and parents‘exoquoo air w BumjopourjwowsAyd swopATORO T anda “lqeoytoods sx0py sangeroyg peotuypoy oxy wow pois seouorayos ayelsdosdde "Wim powotazoso Ayoraq axe soidoy pooueape aloUl ayy jo autos svorotn ‘oF -son09 qqidop-u1 paproye exe Fupzaouiua peyseoo 01 suotzeaydde uOUNWIOD sxout ayy pue Suyapour jeashyd Jo syeyueurepuny at, “pormese:d [er=p JO Tons] auf) UY Grea sreydeqp 9 BI9 s.ournjon a4 UIyBL pofon0d eardoy, ‘uolyequstagrodxo Azozeaoqe pue Suyopout voisdyd wy poBeBua sioyoswesex ue siooulTue 2oj p90) soustefor e se 40 Suapout [eoiskyd wy asun0> © 05 ‘poy rojowwupesd © se ones oF UOTE Sei Yoo SI "sTRAUOR) “ean 1m SusouSus yersv0> ayy wy popodar pu aprapliow padoparap wo2q sey 22 Fuoponr yeoiskya ynoge apomowy ayy Jo Yon ay~p\o=to> op apna usoq sey ydwoyye UY “Fuyooufu jeyeco> ut pordde sr Furjpour Teyshyd Jo souapes pue a2v 94) gnoge sf 009 sg) EOE ops 9y2 Sy uorssoyoud ays Jo auoyszoUIE9 w suIeMNDE x pure 1001 Fuewoousu0 perse09 ofqenyea v se paysTqEyo [fom s Fusjopous peoreAy ‘sivas 9 asad ayy 1240 ojdoad poquayey pu porpotpep éueU jo soteroAosiod re yom pro OM Jo eeresoq “Bulopows jworsiyd uy aouetiedxe qsed 30 syomeg ayy moma oto seas SIG, “apne soy ejeos oq) purrstepun pur ‘spaye Alopwoqe| seqUINUL ‘eanbxEHS | Tuuinsvout ajqeyor doyorop ‘san o% AxoyesOGoT 490136009 cuattodxo Azoy00q9| pu Fuyapous rears 9) pavepax syse) ynogp Suvi pooe} SioouiSuo yeyeeoo ws exoouord OU, ‘oREpHEA 20} sivour xe squoutdojanep yeoyaz094y shoteutau pue 99% uBtsop FuooH 28 8, juoddns 0% EuoH noe whsop onwouooo pue ojqetfes yu an poplaoid onety mf, PuE ‘uo(8es sfoystuou oxy jo aunox onuwuApoxpAy xayduoo ays OFM 1UBHsU st of 9664 sepout [EoSAtg -wowrepoad e sv TulssoMsu9 [ese Jo Hnmcls up Wt 9]od [eyoald ¥ paseld axey s[aponr ywoysyd Axoresogey ~A({ UY pateatoe sea soyesonog sxba apnis aeay om HOU aovjorg eeig tools, and it lists advantages and disadvantages of ing approach to problem solving. Chapter 2 covers the mal analysis, including observations on ite usefulness Chapter 4 first estat requirements for hydro the specific cases of sl long-wave models are consid- le effects, seale selection, boundary layer si ication, and typical applications. models are extensively applied in the design of coast tures, and Chapter 5 presen ide requirements for coastal struc- tures such as rubble-imound structures, vertical walls, composite structures, and floating structures. Also included are sections on laboratory and scale effects, model verification, scale selection, and other modeling considera- Chapter 6 presents some ent model nost difficult of all physical models. After so1 philosophical remarks regarding the mainder of the chapter is divided into bedload and suspend innilitude requirements are developed for both types of moval cls according to the primary sedi seale effects are h king regarding movable-bed introductory topic receives genorous coverage mental equations for wavemaker ‘The usefulness of coustal engineering physical models depends to a large extent on obtaining accurate measurements of physical quantities iu the ‘hapter 8 overviews the important subject of laboratory measure= highlights some of the available instruments used in and discusses several common wave data anulysis techniques, Each chapter ends with a to papers appearing in the Proceedings of the’ Interna Engineering Conference are listed by the year of mnal Coastal 1¢ conference (even num bered years) rather than the strict copyright date, which is sometimes the year after the conference. 1 apologize for any confusion this may cause. whose pointed I was attempting want to express my appreciation to the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers for its support of coastal engincoring research in the United States, and I wich to thank may colleagues at the Coastal Engineering Research Center for many 1 discussions over the years. Special thanks University, for his efforts a2 Series Editor and to for his review of the “measurements” chapter. Most 1 want to thank my wife, Paity, and my daughters, Kelsey and and patience 10k August 1993. Steven A. Hughes Coastal Engineoring Research Center USS. Army Engineer Waterways Experiment Stat=o aasaemgea eye wea Tewouedxy poe menpoig sequosuout eee suouodyg jo uonoopeg CE'Z ueuooyy Id weYsUPNG —T2 ABojopomay stek(euy ywuolsuOMI Ez sionporg sseyuowsuanng jo sag a[dwiog zz Sianpoty ssojuojsuouuig Summey ¢'2'¢ Ieuowuomg renpweD o Fudd Zee Suun Jo snorefs pre suosuouna poe suowuomng Te sissqeuy [euoysuoung Fo sooner ot “sorted stig ST SepOW [eatsayg MOAY SHON WHEAT ET ++ Sueausug peaseo wi spopoyy PwoIsiyg Jo sodkL EST POW reaIekyE v TuSMPUOD WI WOH 7'5'T SPORE TwoHEKya est EU TST STPOW feoIshya OHMEIpAT Jo MarATEAQ) GT ST9pOW [eowssyg Jo soHeUEApESI HT SEPON FY Jo soSeIUEAPY ET Suyppopy ounvapsy yo Gorn RE ZT * slooy, uilsaq Bursaamug jersey TT ‘woonpoxyty 1 syueyu0gCONTENTS aL 52 54 Bd 56 58 60 62 Practical Aspects of Hydraulic 2 Specific Hydraulic Criteria 63 3 Hydraulic Model Distortion 76 34 References 80 Hydrodynamic Models a 4.1 Introduction to Hydrodynamic Models 82 4.2. Short-Wave Hydrodynamic Models 83 4.2.1 Scaling Requirements for Short-Wave Models 86 42.2 Short-Wave Model Laboratory and Scale Effects 97 4.2.3 Short-Wave Model Boundary Layer Similitude 118 4.24 Short-Wave Model Thermal Similitude 124 42.5. Short-Wave Model Verification 128 4.2.6 Short-Wave Model Scale Selection 129 4.3, Long-Wave Hydrodynamic Madels rh 43.1 Scaling Requirements for Long- Wave Models 134 4.3.2 Long-Wave Model Laboratory and Scale Effects... M4 43.8 154 434 156 4.3.5 Long-Wave Model Verification 160 4.3.6 Long-Wave Model Seale Selection 161 44 Other Model Study Considerations. 162 45° References 164 Coastal Structure Models 169 5.1 Introduction to Structure Models 170 5.4L Types of Coastal Structures fl 170 5.12 Purposes and Requirements of Structure Models. 172 5.2 Rubble-Mound Structures 175 5.2.1 Rubble-Mound Structure Scaling Requirements 175 5.2.2 Rubble-Mound Model Lab and Seale Effects 184 5.2.3 Rubble-Mound Medel Verification 190 5.24 Rubble-Mound Madel Scale Selection 192 5.2.5 Rubble-Mound Structure Modeling Procedures |. . 192 CONTENTS 55 56 57 58 5.2.6 Modeling Armor Unit Stresses Sloping Impermeable Structures 531 1g Immpermeable Structure Sealing 5.3.2 Sloping Impermeable Structure Scale Effects Vertical-Wall Structures 541 Wall Structure Sealing 542 ‘Wall Structure Seale Effects 543 ‘Wall Model Verification 544 ‘Wall Model Scale Sel 545 Composite Structures : Floating Structures 5.6.1 Scaling Requirements for Floating Structures 5.6.2 Floating Structure Seale Effects 5.6.3 Floating Structure Model Seale Selection 5.64 Floating Structure Model Construction Other Modeling Considerations References . 6 Sediment Transport Models 6.1 62 63 64 Tntroduction to Movable-Bed Models 6.11 Movable-Bed Modeling Philosophical Remarks 6.1.2 Problems Addressed by Movable-Bed Models 6.14 Cautions About Mevable-Bed Medels Movablo-Bed Sealing Requirements 6.2.1 Sediment Transport Dimensional Analysis 8.2.2 General Similitude Difficulties 7 Bedload-Dominated Transport Models 6.3.1. Shoar Stress Scales 6.3.2 Bedload Model Seale Requirements . 6.3.3 Best Model Requirements 6.34 Lightweight Model Requirements 6.5.5 Densimetric Froude Model Requirements 6.3.6 Sand Model Requirements 6.3.7 Bedload Models: Summary and Discussion | Suspension-Domninated Models 6.4.1 Scale Criteria Without Fall Speed Dependency 6.4.2 Scale Criteria Dependent on Fall Speed 8.4.3 Suspension-Dominated Modeling Conclusions 6.44 Suspension-Dominated Model Seale Effects Fixed-Bed Tracer Studies 202 213 218 214 216 216 220 221 222 = 222 - 223 223 226 - 27 228 ~ 228 231 237 . 237 238 240 242 m4 24 248 251 52 252 + 255 257 + 260 + 266 207 70 281 282 299, 316 317 319eos ¥e9 ose oes eee ang see seo pes bee oge ose eae sce 908 see see ses Tes 61g 909 208 20s, tos ser ser Ser ver 6h cor eer Ir 16 06 ay ey wy up separ woafans xopur sompny, sjoquidg 32029 sjoquiag uewoy we re worHON pur sjoquieg soousrayey 2r¥ © quingy, 30 som TTY squmystog [woIssyg OF sanjeA NaH OT suiiqy aueogiusig, worsieauog sinqezoduray, sio}2rg woIsTaAuoD (Ig) EPH Sem, rerUpey, ESHA IS Ie Os : soxyord 1S) quStem pue ‘22104 ‘See 97, per 20} pardosoy sug sjoqunts pus sua 1g ‘woronponuy ey ev Ly ov oy vy ey ey ry wro3shg (5) EHOW + + sopuaaajey + ssqeuy worpepPY ZePIO-PUDI®S E's Sonat aupneuy jo ssAfeuy uonsagAl ZH'g sang avynSioy Jo SiKjeuy womeopey LF. vo aindieuy non2peNE axeyy srskpeuy jorioodg feuoraanig e's sxshyeay (ferodg) urewoq Aousnbady $03 assqeuy (jeonsueis) uewog amy, 7's * Sumpa red Tes sees ssApeny wre ake woryewwoumsoq-onong AIo;EIOqU] 6-e'8 juouromensyy KyouRcyTeG PO-IGUOW 8T'F swowemsvapy jodsuvsy, yusuupag |7°9 wwouroins¥ayy a0104 pue SINS G29 uauramseayy ommsiang 92'S wORUATNA MOT FES uINsLaAY AIDOPA Moy $7 wouoAMEnayE (soneAA) woHUABIG aoeLNg ws 7's {UoWOMNSHOWY [OAT LIMA TG a, le sIooy, wuatKaInsvayy SENGLNOO ve v8 ee we 60r sto1ag pure fovmooy quouremnseayy T'S 9b + squoumansuy jo won ETS 19% suouomsayy jo sda T'S esr konomporsm] TTB 6p srueuomsvayy AoreI0qe] 1° er sisdqouy puv juowamsvoyy Aroqex0quy ue seouaray g's sh sreyeUIoNeyA JoS9dKY, 19D EEL Bey sIOGIONRY OM 8 26> sropourenegy ends 1911 Ath soiday, worereuey ane4y PUORIPPY gL 98h owyessUID) 2AEML JUUO|TI—IIG AVPIO-pUOIeg Fy), ep srOyRUIOAeAA JPUONPONG Jo Spedsy NeW FLL zr woyreIeHOD omeAA seMFeLN] feUOHOONG Zp 8th womeieuay axeyy ZeINFOY onbIGO LepLO-BE TLL 2th woreiouen axeyy (G-2) peuONDaNg yp ory worrezouey eneyy awInexI] 19pIO-PUOIag F9p, vor uoqessu9y oAmyt seIMHoUN LOPA-ABMY 9‘, ree sora oxy reRBONIT Gy 28 woHonpormuy 19°) 708 crpereH9g oarag (QZ) INFO 9°), oxe SoavAy ttorsuesy, oytredg Jo worjeIotIED gery see soxcay qelsuMy, Sunarpadg 405 seLLooNT, Ze") ose deo WONT paymesg JOYCUIONYAA BdAL-UOIsd Tord 988 ORBIANIE) aAvgA quoHeEAT, wut soxem reproug pue fey | GFL 298 SOnEM B9¥OHS TOPIQ-PUEMy Ty, 99g Perey woHeIsHID aseaA IeOUIILON pL woe” seyuutoneyy 2K, 208M BEL 98 soywUDAGM PEATE YUITNIQEA EEL sie sropptoney 9AKI-doig pow odfy-toaa TEL eee +17 woWeioueD aaKaA sepIO“EILL gL vee Siopenby Sumo eUOIUONIC-ON], ZZ eee worompomy TZ eee woWerousD oagy £30qRI0quT cee na scour 19 eee * wonesedg jopow pur won2ag aig 99 Bee SWROMIINSCOHY BOW PAE-AITEAOK 99 Tee TOHPOYNIA PPO 99 lee Sicedey [POW PeE-TTRON LHD 9-9 SENGENODChapter 1 Introduction uoamyaq suomyeiar jwowgeutayreus Aopduro your Pip wowwaMg “(G26T ‘Te 49 ‘wospny) SisUEprTAL pue e[aetau aayeA Jo aouEUIO} ~isd Suranusoyap ye pouty axo4 ©1999 I “EGUT-ZGLT WL UorwouNg MYO HEME -qoysug we 49 poyoupwo> o10m syuauuisedxo [opour-s[eo9 UACUY 181Y OL, soqwoe quOIOYIp 4 f08 Jo FEE ayy a ose woyaien *( ur serps wy Nt ‘sfssoqpa Sepuodsatso9 jo om oH ¥9T) woUsoy ees o9 porn: ee(pou fo ee mp Worearosqo [PUsIA Yo (KoyZOA UE SuIOFEd ‘sof o03p Jo eoqyoud) euamousyd woy [Bsanos Yoyays pure aqiDs9p 07 98 9M) 30 9: ‘ep opreuco’] yrs ‘unBoq any 09 94 reeAPAY| JO PRIS 2H, Suyopoyy oymespéH Jo Ar09s1H Jorg ZT « WOisap axvuyjdo 0} paso} japow 230 syoafaud soynniphy sofow trou ‘hyuantasuog “soxousd ut passsuncous asp yoy) suereoy}dus09 oy) #0009 youuDd fuoyz,, “PoyeIs aH uD{ps uB\sap yoofead jo yzoddne uy pout juarshyd Jo yzoddns ponuryuoo 2cy ejeuoryer poptacud (1761) wHeR “suoyjoesequ1 [Porsiyd x=[duioe pue 21seq Jo Apuas 3tf) PIEMOy suroyeks yeyew09 Jo Surjapour jesouoH {ferono 34) WLO3] LYS 0} ano TIA Buqjopour yeowsAizd Jo siseyduzo oy se0so203 21 ynq ‘aUN6> oF sun BUNS ZOE s(epour [eoqournu Jo wep ToNP>YLI9K poe WOryeLqITeD o[quyeados optaczd £ ONTTAGOW OITIAVUGAH dO AYOLSIN ATTN “eT ©F PepeoU aq Lm sjepous [wo|sAyA ye amo poqLIod (Tggq) synydusey, TPPOW woredyd oWp Jo soqseprnog ey Ye suOTHIPUOD gndat opraczd 0} posn og Aeur syfnsoz fopoul feotaowinu ‘joq2104 Jo wor8eu tepim ¥ Butzon09 [apouL ut aaysuayarduto 30 ado0U0 a4 popny woyounfuos wy sro! 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INTRODUCTION proposed by him and to end the controversy which had arisen over the ‘method of regulation (Iviesics 1980), In his tests the river banks were fixed, and sand was spread over the bottom (Hudson, et al. 1979) Osborn Reynolds, in 1885, conducted movable-bed model tests of the River Mersey with sand as the bed material. His model was at a very small scale with the vertical scale being 33 times as large as the horizontal scale, He used natural-sized bed material during his tests (Hudson, et al. 1979). Jn 1887, Reynolds expressed optimistically that he had developed the concepts which led him to the conclusion that with Proper circumspection it is indeed possible to build river mod- els in which the development of the bed uill be actually similar to that taking place in the corresponding section of the prototype river. (Iviesics 1980) Reynolds’ work was continued by Vernon Harcourt who used sand and Jighter-weight bed materials such as charcoal and pumice (Hudson, et al 1979), Harcourt expressed the following thoughts about movable-bed mod- ling: IT can succeed in demonstrating with the model that the orige inally existing conditions can be reproduced typically; and if, moreover, by placing regulating works in the model, the same changes can be reproduced that were brought about by the train- ing works actually built, then I am sure that I can take the Uird most important siep, namely, of investigating, with every promise of success, the probable effect of the projects that have een proposed. (Hudson, et al. 1979), principle of movable-bed model verification has since been proven very ble, however, no rigorous proof exists (Hudson, et al. 1979) ‘The first hydraulic laboratory int the United States was founded in 1887 at Lehigh University by Mansfield Merrimen; and the first hydraulic Iab- oratory designed for experimental work using movable-bed models began operating in 1808 in Dresden, Germany, under the direction of Hubert En- gels (Hudson, et al. 1979), At the turn of the century the need to solve an increasing number of river regulation problems led to increased use of small-scale hydraulic modeling, Several diinensionless, invariant numbers (e.g., Froude number, Reynolds ‘iimaber) had been discovered based on physical arguments associated with Newtonian physics, and the general requirement was that these numbers ‘must be kept the same between model and prototype. A more formal approach to determination of invariant parameters camne early in the 20th 1.2. BRIBP HISTORY OF HYDRAULIC MODELING ‘Table 1.1: Historical Milestones in Hydraulic Modeling 1500 ~ Da Vinci used models to observe flow characteristics 1687 — Newton formulated she rule of corresponding velocities 1752 — Smeaton conducted szale-model water wheel experiments 1852 — Rech formulated hydraulic sealing criterion 1870 — Froude conducted ship towing experiments 1875 — Fargue conducted first movable-bed model of a river sestion 41885 — Reynolds conducted movable-bed model of River Mersey 41887 — First U.S. hydraulic lndoratory founded at Lehigh University 1898 — Establishment of German movable-bed modeling facility 1914 — Franziug-Tnstitut fondest in Germary 1918 — University of lowa Hydraulic Laboratory founded in the U.S. 1920 — Dimensional analysis vas born 1927 — Delft Hydraulics Laboratory founded in The Nethee 1929 — Waterways Experimen: Station founded in the U.S. 1932 — Beach Erosion Board began laboratory research in the US. 41945 — National Research Council Hydraulics Lab. founded in Canada 1946 — Port and Harbor Research Institute founded in Japan 1949 — Laboratoire National D’Hydraulique founded in France 1947 — Hyéraulie Research Station founded in England 1963 — Coastal Engineering Rascarch Cente: succeeds BEB in the U.S. 1964 — Danish Hydraulic Institute founded in Denmark nds century with the bizth of dimensional analysis. This gave the ability to determine invariant dimensionless parameter groups when many variables of the process needed to be corsidered (Iviesies 1980). From the beginning of the 20th century until recent times, establishment and operation of hydraulic modeling facilities has flourished worldwide. In the United States, many universities maintained hydraulic laboratories to support teaching and research. Among the more notable, the hydraulic laboratory at the University of Iowa was founded in 1918. In 1914, the Le of Hydraulic Enginsering was founded in Han- nover, Germany. This laboratory was Inter renamed the Frantits-Institut in 1936 in honor of its founder. ‘The Delft Hydraulics Laboratory was founded in 1927. 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Jo fypoyp pur spratuseut oy oUF SIYL “S09Mg portUA, UT AioyerOqu] atnEspAy jo essed sea Tkg Jeuorsss18u0} v “sat uaan ssw PAY uouIAOD Jo 90H ay WIL passaiduL sea O44 “1930, Fito aynexpAy ussyroury sfqeqou e ‘ueweady uyor Jo a9ua4s NOLLOAGOULNI ‘1 MILEVHO. 88 CHAPTER 1. INTRODUCTION 6. Physical contact with uid element romains the best physical model demion- what will happen, It stimulates the imaginat ing solutions at a level that can ot computer printouts, Le Méhauté (1990) concluded by postulati models can only be gained by better understanding of the basic laws of fluid flow. Scale models still are the beat tool that an engineer can have to discaver and verify engineering solutions. 1.4 Disadvantages of Physical Models Although there are several distinct advantages in favor of laboratory exper imentation and physical modeling, we mnst temper our enthusiasm some- what with the realization that physical hydraulic models have some serious arawbacks, most notably: a, Scale effects occur in models that ae sinall Prototype if it is not possible to simulate all relevant varie ables in correct relationship to each other. Seale effects are to the experimenter what simplifying assurnptions are the theor Méhauté 1990). A common scale eff coastal models is viscous forces that are relatively in the scale model than in the prototype. b. Laboratory effects can lated to the exte er fluence the process being simu at suitable approximation of the pro- oratory effects arise from ie forcing conditions and from impact. mode! boundaries have on simulated. A common laboratory effect arises when nnidi- tectional waves are generated in the model to approximate directional waves that occur in nature. The experimenter must determine whether ¢ tion, 1 reasonable approxitna 1.8. OVERVIEW OF HYDRAULIC PHYSICAL MODELS 9 ions and boundary conditions act- \ in nature are not included in the physical model, snd the missing functions and conditions need to be assessed and accounted for in evaluation of model results, For ex: ind shear stresses acting on the free surface may icant nearshore circulation currents in na- Id be absent in any model which included only mechanical wave generation. 4. Except in rare instances, physical models are undeniably ‘more expensive to operate than numerical models; and in situations where the numerical model gives reliable resulte with engineering accuracy, the numerical model is the tool of choice. Despite the shortcomings inherent in experimental physical modeling, capability to model accurately the processes in the nearshore zone is essen- tial to a wide range of problems (Dean 1985), and understanding physical model laboratory and scale effects will allow researchers to utilize these models to address problems that cannot wait until a complete, or at least sufficient, mathematical description of the process is available. Even in the face of laboratory and scale effects, it is possible to test model sensi- tivity by varying input conditions, and thus better interpret model results (Kamphuis 1991), b the future we can look forward to better understanding of scale ef ria, better instrumentation, automation of ‘operation, and new and innovative avenues of research (Martine 1.5 Overview of Hydraulic Physical Models 1.5.1 What is a Physical Model? he term “physical model” conjures up different images for different poo: ple, depending on their own personal oxperi ‘precise, all-encompassing, definition of physi cult. ‘To some, the term “physical model” might b reproduction of actual prototype situations, such as harbors or breakwa- ters, To others, the term may exclude laboratory experimentation looking ally at a reduced size) so that the major dominant forces,51003 ysrvosos onbyun axe oyy osne2eq ,{apow ssenoud, 943 premor A1s99zIP 99 (tm Furjspour pworsAyd jo oungny ayy 1aMs porere (Te6T) sIMyduR: ‘soxva JeoUrfuOM jo Suywoys [A> punose soD20} oy Jo UoBLULINNA ‘soyer yzodsmEs) IUNEpEs F soipme opnyour sjepour feoisAud ssaacad jo sojdwnexg yywoustsadxe 4201 “S1oqEI, PUCTIIPEN ey 01 puodsoz09 s[epour Seog “soISAYd ay INOqU Suipueysiepun ss2u dojeaap 04 sapro uy ere wy seo201d jeolscya & ApUIS 1 pauisap [apous pwarshyd v st su], “Jopour ssoooxd ay} ee o4 porsdy 21 aif [9pou ypayeax-voG, yo 94K) pay & popraosd (Tggt) sInyduzey ‘speo| Suoow diys yo sjopous ure ‘€yiiqeas sayeay¥eug Jo sjppow ‘seme BuO] pUE qlOYs o9 axtiodser 0q, “1eY Jo S[apour spnput slapour uBlsep ofduwxg -oouepind ufteop dojanap oF Ayfwotratn# pasn peoysuy axe qnq ‘ays qoofoud sytoods © qosoador jou Op s9pou uSisop sulog “asuodsar japous yoaxion Aion uot PUE [opOUr y yonagsto2 0} wyep edAyor0zd quaroymns Buysouye? 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INTRODUCTION vvield valuable insight into the details of very complex hiydro- Processes. These models allow systematic investigation of both steady-state or transient flow phenomena, and they are the key for advanc- Ing numerical modeling capabilities, 1.5.3 Types of Physical Models in Coastal Engineering In terms of their physical characteristics, physical models used to study nearshore constal processes ean be divided into two classes: fixed-bed mod- els and movable-bed model \daries that esnnot be modified by ng in the model. (However, the bound- aries can modify the hydrodynamics!) Fixed-bed models are used to study waves, currents, or similar hydrodynamic phenomena in the laboratory der controlled circumstances. ‘They are also used to study the interaction of hydrodynamic farces with solid bodies, such ae pilings, breakwaters, hae- bor basins, ete. The scaling effects associated with fixed-bed models ate derstood and much confidence can be given to the sesults Examples of fixed-bed mo two-dimensional facilities in- clude wave tank tests to exa ropagation and transformation, studies of wind wave generation in funes, breakwater stability test, stud. jes on wave/eurrent interaction, measurement of hydrodynamic forces on structures, and examination of fui ki ‘Three-dimensional fixed-bed models are more involved, and they exane- ine such coastal engineering problems as wave penetration into harbors, harbor seiching response to short waves, transformation of directionally. spread irregular waves, interaction of oblique waves and currents, stability of complex coastal structures, and other challenging engineering problerns Movable-bed models, as the name implies, have a bed composed of raaterial that can react to the applied hydrodynamic forces (hopefully in w prototype response). The scaling effects inherent els used for studying sedimentary problems a they ate for fixed-bed models. Consequently, @ context of reproducing previoui prototype bed evolution Examples of two-dimensional movable-bed cosstial models include stud- fes of beach profile evolution, dune erosion, ripple development, scour at the toes of coastal structures, response of beach fills to storms, response of c ble beaches to wave action, and bedform translation under unidirectional currents, 1.5. OVERVIEW OF HYDRAULIC PHYSICAL MODELS 13 ‘Three-dimensionel movable-bed models are much ¥ the high costs associated with these models. Examples inc erosion of oil drilling sand islands, littoral drift induced by ol approach, formation of sand spits, three-dimensional ripple formation, and scour holes in the vicinity of structures. ‘A compromise between the fixed-bad and movable-bed model occurs when sediment tracer materials are used in fixed-bed models as a qualita tive indicator of sediment erosion and deposition areas, Both fixed-bed and movable-bed physical models can be cithor site- specific or generic in purpose. Site-specific models pertain to actxal pro- totype situations, and as mentioned, they can often be dificult to conduct correcily. Also, site-specific model results are strictly applicable only to the prototype situation being modeled. A site-specific model is in the design model category. On the other hand, generic physical models are somewhat simplified or idealized models in which response data are collected for a variety of hydro- dynamic foreing conditions. These data are then used to develop or verify theoretical and/or empirical relationships between the flow characteristics and the process response, or to calibrate or verify a numerical model for- mulation, Design guidance derived from generic model study results may hhave wide applicability, Generic physical models can be either validation ls, of design models haracteristi that can be assigned to either fixed-bed or movable- bed models is whether the model is “short-term” or “long-term”. Short term models examine response of the project or physical system to short uration (hours to days), high intensity events, such as storms. Long-term models determine system changes that occur over exiended time periods (days to years). Short-term physical models are far more practical to con duct. duo in part to 1.5.4 Important Notes About Physical Models It is easy to understand how previous successes by others in physical hy- draulic modeling often lure unsuspecting investigators into a false sense of ty regarding their own laborstory studies. We must always bear that two necessary requirements must be first mot before plac- ing stock in physical model results: (a) equivalence between prototype and model must be met to the extent possible under the constraints of the study, and (b) model date must be properly interpreted in view of the known model shortcomings (Keulegan 1966) ‘Svendsen (1985) gave two good rules to help guide us while evaluating physical model results,‘sogepunog j9pour oy 38 anday s1 Zus10j o1wUspospsy puv ‘sede pur ou ono sojnduros © Suysn ponjor puw poyjerosip ow sossov0ud yuorsAyd ayy uxeACT 2 suorrenbe joryewayzeus 24 Jo LON -upwayyoyy oyy Jo ze JeDads y 9 asuodsor 59} puv ss2n0ud [eIsEOD v JO $0] uoryeyuasoadar peajgeunygeU ¥ ‘sanbunpay uopeiote# Moy pue one Se yaNe ~210quy ay) Jo suo} wou aste qutp ceuodses fopour Syozoud usemyaq sooudi9yiC tsyoyF Azo;EIOGET © STEAOW TVOISAHd OLTAVAGAH dO MSIAYTAO '$'T ‘sono queaajaa ‘stodsox [apour ONT opeag + pour oy; wt paonpoxdor AquoyoujsHIBS 8 (aTyorE ainqeay 2peosox9eUE OHIO Hoy LIE Ayaeypuuts pour asey o} ‘wo asi id OL UsaHyoq seouarays yereq 2) asx -s4uo 9pwi ‘5 Japour ouy yf nase 'oddyoqord soai8 Jopou! ¥ woyR sXe Tey Flos uorequasoadas ayp sv poo se ~todou 2S] “TPpour pur adéjojoud ‘Aq, your 9q qsnur yey suolIptoD spyourered uaa 18 Jo anes [spout om pur onzea adiyoqoud o4f uaaMyoq son PH om e9[¥>g “(TUBE we) edéroroud pu [opoUl toomjoq seustaqoezeqp e|qeunseoul Jo stolziodoid yuB_sU0;) uouswouyd peoraiyd 3 99 01 aney Azusss09H YoU svop ents oy, wdoz0rq © ‘Mo[oq Pauyop KystG owe suI94 yuEyZoduN aout SL, “suse ova aE siayuTOOND enotAord s,20pEox 94} WOH} 40 7¥9% But jeueurEpUEY amy peremaos Aysuysnqehy sua posers oy Pu ‘ssKTeUR [eUOIstoUTIP 40 440 fay Jo qwourdoyasap ow HIM ETUDE, pue KYPEEIENGeAE pagparo pomreutog bon suotoaoutp uo poveq pomreursfeayour pos} Sanguco wage oy JO EIS aM TUN You Fe ojzey © wood sfeaye axe sonsodoud jwaskgd jo suoystoUur AP aq Jo (1961) seoyduvy Aruay** ,woygaud 249 1 seygouuve fo soquenn yp fo ‘uononpas v £4 waygaud » fo sislyoun jmuorsuautp v fo M824 311 siskjeuy [BUOIsuSUIIG z taydeyDCHAPTER 2. DIMENSIONAL ANALYSIS porting @ measurement introduces uncertainty in the intexp: value. Although there are instances w able assumption to be made of the di numerical value, there is one system of units are rout Scientific thinking involves abstract concepts such as for area, volume, time, aecel , velocity, temperat lectric charge. Te each of there c unit of measure. Some entities (imass, tric charge) are independent of each ott considered fundamental dimensions and , and their dimensions can be s base units. Other fundamental ‘ed that dimensions serve a mathematical purpose because “They are a code for telling us hiow the numerical value of @ quan- tity changes when the basic units of measurement are subjected to prescribed changes.” Al -omewhat philosophical, Langhaar’s remark ean, preted to mean “ditnensions and dimensional units pro- vide a kno rence frame from which to observe relative change in a. physical quantity: Different types of conventional oped based on Newton’e second la Systems of units utilizing Newton's quantity having units composed of (1). Then either mass (M) asurement systems have been devel: specified as a fundamental quan- ree oF tmass) as a derived quantity nd law. Dep chosen as the fundam time, mass system or a length, Common mass systems of measurem : and their corresponding dimen- sions of length, mass, and time are: * CGS System (centimeter-gram-second), with force unit defined as dyne * SI System (mater-kilogram-second), with force unit de- fined as newto 2.1. DIMENSIONS a « British Mase System {foot-pound-second), with force unit defined as pounds! (this system is also referred to as Br Type ll) Force systems of measurement and their corresponding dimensions of length, force, and time inclade: MKS Force System (meter-kilogram-second), with mass unit defined as kilogram second squared per meter ‘« American Enginssring System (foot-pound-second), with ase unit defined as alug (this systom is also referred to as British ‘Type 1) the American Engincering System (force system) where necessary to introduce empirical results. Langhaar (1951) discussed in more detail the relationships between the above cited measurement systems. Det ‘on the SI System of Units are given in Appendix A. Considering the mess system, Yalin (1974) pointed out that the dimen sion of any physical quantity or property ean be represented in terms of the three fundamental dimensions of length (L), time (7), and mass (M) by the expression LT? Mt (2) as the dimensions of” Yalin further stated ity is reflected by the numerical values where the symbol [=] means that the nature of the physical Fo #0,8=0,7=0 y ia £0,007 =0 fo x0. #07¢0 However, if a = = 8 = 0 in Equation 2.1, the quantity °a” cannot depend on the fundamental dimensions of L, 7’, and iM and is therefore referred to a3 a dimensionless quentity which will retain the same numerical value in all systems of units ~The mass system can be readily adapted for use where the gravitational acceleration is different than the Barth'syowmu suapnis 24 “(y Sey 26> patenom aBcione sya yey) Du ep inseaiy[esvauisiedxojnyove> spew! sey au9pMs srenpel3 snowienpy UY SHUN Jo woIstaAuoD “FZ edu ‘sojdumexe Bu) aut of porearsny 51 sigan reuorsuauusp Jo wolsientiog “stoyoey woyszBAK03 teionas Zuyquios £q potonsistoa aq twe> y xipuaddy wr porst 704 810198} Uuo[siantiog “y xipuaddy uy wan? st moASKg |g 249 pus tud}aKg PuZEOUFUG lmpqaWy oy toowoq suolauouNp SuryZastcD 10} Sloe} LOTsIOAKOD SuLseeU -taua pash Suoummuo> Jo a1ges y “(uosnau | = spumod gpp'p Se) surorsis ‘ues Uoanag me] pug s;uorwen Jo worrway de wrx, agize fam 10 “(S191 “at $806°0 = 100] | '300} | = SoMpUL 21 “F'2) stor Uyap Moy, qqnse4 sx0N>e) Woystaatog “sioj20f worsseauos Seys0 B3q0M Jo We;EAs s94IOUN O} ZO ByIUN Jo luaysK8 © MNT pogroAOD Aysw> are souNeNb PouoteuOLUIP Jo enter sopnyadeu ou pue qifud| pores 049 st aouaseyep Auo ayy, “Tz oqey, ut woALE se ‘uorsuotnyp ony du Supyeus sium a5eq aq) WoeaMaq diysuorTeper ouws op sue 21 woIsuoUNp YET "ASKS 1g ay UE ,oyMUEUE Hod suBpOUITIMOD 10 * ano sad siovou1oTy, ‘puores 10d sroyouL, sw possoud AYys01i00 0q treo APO] 2 piny ‘ootreisut soy “Auodoud zo ypyua ywotedyd curve om; Susyuosezder Ssuossuounp quosayrp [eI0N9s oneY O} LOUIHIOD sf 3 yt Jo UISAS © TIE AL Sy1UQ [euorsuaUNTG Jo uoIsIeAUOD Z'T'Z (wonmyep 2A 04 Kaex}u00) O77 5} SUD] 10 ouN roYyo Jo yuouedxe otf YFNOy jureup paopisuon og plnoys sioyouresed sayy “syeun tsST 20 2 yim poutquioe sseus Jo yun aseq oy) Jo aslsuOD [Te UONeUSTSP e nowt sroyouresed Sumueusas ayy, ‘sory uenb sTyeUIOUTy paraprsuos oq pynoys 2saty, ‘auojoxoyy pu {(so[28> 40) apsue pur stn Jo Fystsuo sqrun aseq 9Agy Souanboxy pe “uoryesja038 zeNSue “Aypojoa BUY "TEA hq poUop S0d41 moy anf Jo auto oyu yy AyjotnIS YoU Op Tg 2IQRI, UE sieyaULEIRd JezaA98 yey ON “(IZBT) WPA Aq toa or uyep aaogu 243 uo paseg royauEred Jo day om soyrauaps ose apqes ayy, “sisyourned jpalstyd Sulsooutse tour omy Jo Sueur soy swum aseq Jo sukE94 UT suOISUOUN ayy SAT TZ 3IGRY, 8 SNOISNAWIG ‘Te ( 2 , 1 ‘ 1 & reer suo Gy Wy © One at Nog ssjuoisuounr i fetter aang suk [eH ~ Aynsera jo enmnpopy fou Seco uorsigy, apes (err) ‘ou yo quawioyy sey aurout09p yal nou] Jo muauOW oy SneUIET ——[ieT]_Aaooma J nuoroyoeg sttaeEN, SHOEUKT [LEAT] * Asean yo sus goog smeuie aumeus Erera] esr ound 90 noua aueuta § Eagegy) nes fowog amumus fry) ores unquatoyy amueudg eeseeese azo on onvatou ey ser str oEIMOR, = Aouonbouy + worqesapooy 2eniry ArpopA zIASay anemomy, one 2y anvuioayy A107. arcade song puv oanssont » Aysuag seep >euweig > ayBteas a00d5 aust s sou0g oysiewzoog) sxango, auprU09, ay (haeqaoureyddng) ~ aay amjexodaray, aaneti099 qiduey sy + aug sonnuend (equouepung Sinuend 0 94K, suomi Aradong 0 Ane OPA 1A Jo wonsés sropy Y w amUG PoIDAya Jo sUOIeUONAEE “Tg TEL, SISATVNY TVNOISNAWIG % USLaVHD wCHAPTER 2. DIMENSIONAL ANALYSIS: sires thas oo cevversion factor is composed of ratios of vi = 5800 seconde) placed in such a may 1 fs that are equivalent the desirad dimensions. ‘he student's committee chaitmen decides that the student should put ings in the Jouenal af Weisd Rescesch (a popular pu ight. Not 1M days, the student (against his better 189° lett] [ede] (82) [294] [se Fortnight erty | [ise] = 3,530 Lerlonge beast The equiv beach pole fara beach with mean gan sz of 0.2mm sg approximately by the equation Ms a mee heoasst? of feet, and 0.15 [=] ft'/*, This equation can be an be used withthe prefered SI unis of meters by pros for the coefficient, 0.15, having units of m*/*, ie,, ne t 1 [oats 15 fe = 01m ga ee ‘And the equivalent equilibrium beach profile ‘equation in $I units is. kegs? here © and fi now have units of meters, where h and 2 have dimens 2.2. PRINCIPLES OF DIMENSIONAL ANALYSIS 25 2.2 Principles of Dimensional Analysis ‘One of the first steps in the analysis of a physical phenomenon is to de cide which physical variables have an effect on the process being studied. ‘Once this has been accomplished, thooretieal or experimental studies can be conducted with the goal of establishing the functional relationship be- tween all the important variables. If no theoretical formulation is found, then meaningful and systematic experiments must be performed in an at” tempt to obtain information about the relationship between variables. ‘The set of experiments may involve changing one variable in the experiment le all other variables are held constant. Obviously, the number of nec- essary experiments increases rapidly as the number of variables increases. However, if several process variables can be combined to form a dimension- less variable, then the number of experiments ean be significantly reduced. Dimensional analysis ie « rational procedure for combining physical vari- ables into dimensionless products, thereby reducing the number of variables that need to be considered, Briefly, dimensional analysis involves these steps 1. [deatify the important independent variables of the pro- 2. Decide which variable is to be the dependent variable. 3. Determine how many independent, dimensionless products can be formed from the variables 4. Reduce the system variables to the proper number of in- dependent dimensionless variables. Forming the diznensionless products ean be accomplished either by inspec- tion, by using che mote formal procedure given later in this chapter, or by a combination of both. After performing the dimensional analysis, theoreti- cal ot experimental work is requited to establish the functional relationship between the independent dimensionless variables Henry Langhaar, who wrote a very good textbook on ysis, made the followi mensional anal- observation about dimensional analysis, Dimensional analysis is « method by which we deduce infor mation about « phenomenon from the single premise that the Phenomenon can be described by a dimensionally correct cyvax tion among certain variables, The generelity of the method is oth ite strength and its weakness. With lille effort, a partial solution to nearly any problem is obtained. On the other hand, @ complete solution és not obtained, nor a the inner mechanism