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Weebee Doll

Holiday Outfit 2019


©2019 Text and images by Laura Tegg, all rights reserved. Finished products created with this FREE pattern may be used for
commercial sale. Design credit should be given to Laura Tegg when finished products are listed for sale.
I, Laura Tegg have made every effort to ensure that the instructions in this FREE pattern are accurate and safe, and therefore cannot
accept liability for any resulting injury, damage or loss to persons or property, however it may arise. Names of manufacturers and
product ranges are provided for the information of readers, with no intention to infringe copyright or trademarks.
Please be aware that I only share and sell my patterns via www.ravelry.com.
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Before you begin…


The outfit in this pattern has been designed to fit my standard size
Weebee doll. You can find the doll pattern here for free – the hair
cap on the doll modelling this outfit can be found in this paid pattern.
Important Information Regarding Yarn & Hook Choice
I have tried very hard to make my clothing patterns as versatile as
possible. In theory as long as you use the same type of yarn e.g.
acrylic, cotton etc., the same brand of yarn, the same weight of yarn
and the same hook size, the clothing should fit your dolls.
However, some people have commented that they have a tendency to stuff their dolls very, very
firmly (one person said ‘like a brick’) and a lot of people use cotton yarn too which doesn’t have
much give. If this is you, you may not be able to manipulate your dolls into the clothing as easily as I
can, as although I stuff my dolls firmly I don’t stuff them so firmly that I cannot pull and/or push them
into the clothing with ease. I also use acrylic yarn for my dolls and their clothing which has a lot of
stretch to it.
Therefore If you tend to stuff your dolls very firmly, so that that the dolls body has very little give or
use cotton yarn, it is highly recommended that you go up at least a hook size when making the
clothing within this pattern.
I have noted in the individual patterns when there is a good point at which to try the pieces on before
you work any further, so that you can rework what you have done so far with a different sized hook if
you need to.
Useful info for those who crochet left handed
Please take a look at this site for hints and tips about following crochet patterns if you are left handed
https://www.anniescatalog.com/crochet/content.html?content_id=554&type_id=T

Terminology: US Abbreviations Cont/d… Abbreviations Cont/d…


Double Crochet (dc) Single Crochet (sc)
Other items needed:
Double Crochet Decrease (dc2tog) Single Crochet Decrease (sc2tog)
Stitch marker
Half double crochet (hdc) Space (sp)
Tapestry needle
Loop (lp) Skip (skp)
Pair of 12mm safety
Magic ring (MR) Stitch (st)
eyes
Next (nxt) Slip Stitch (sl st)
Abbreviations: Round (rnd) Yarn Over (yo)
Back loop only (blo)
Chain (ch)

Which yarns did I use for my doll and clothing?


We don’t have much choice here in the UK yarn wise, Stylecraft Special and Paintbox acrylic yarns
are my absolute favourite brands though, lovely to work with, reasonably priced and both with good
colours to choose from

Special Stitches
Twisted Single Crochet (tw sc)
Stitches are worked from the right to the left. Insert hook into st, yo, pull through a loop (2 loops on
hook, make them loose), rotate the hook towards yourself and around 360 degrees, yo and draw
through two loops on hook. Here’s a link to a video which shows how to do it:
http://www.gosyo.co.jp/siteimage/kagi_ami/32/32_kagi.wmv.
If this link does not work for you (it can be temperamental) there are now videos on YouTube – just
search for ‘Twisted Single Crochet)
Ch3 Picot
Ch3, sl st into 3rd ch from hook - please see this video if you need help to complete the picot.
Pattern Start
Festive Holiday Dress
Worked from the neck down.
Row 1: Using white, ch32, sc in second ch from hook and in each ch
across to end, turn (31sts)
Rnd 2: Ch1 (not a st from now on), work (2hdc,
ch2, 2hdc) all in first st, skip a st, *work (2hdc,
ch2, 2hdc) in next st, skip a st, repeat from *
across to last 2sts, skip the next st, work (2hdc,
ch2, 2hdc) into last st, join last st to first with
a sl st (16 shells)
Fasten off white and change to red, attach yarn
to first ch2 space in first shell…
Rnd 3: Ch1, work (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) all into first ch2 space, work (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in each of the
next two ch2 spaces in the next two shells, skip 2 shells, work (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) into the ch2 spaces
in each of the next six shells, skip 2 shells, work (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in the ch2 spaces in each of the
last 3 shells, join the last st to the first with a sl st (12 shells)
Rnd 4: Ch1 and sl st along into first ch2 space, ch1, work (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc)
into first ch2 space, work (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) into each of the next two ch2
spaces in each of the next two shells, work (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) into space
beneath the arm hole, work (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) into the ch2 space in each of
the next 6 shells, work (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) into the space beneath the other
arm hole, work (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) in the ch2 space in each of the remaining
3 shells, join as before (14 shells)
Now is a good time to try the dress on for fit. If it’s too big, work the above 6 rounds again using a
smaller hook as appropriate, if it’s too small, use a bigger hook as appropriate.
Rnd 5: Ch1 and sl st along into first ch2 space, ch1, work (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) into first ch2 space,
continue to work (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) into each ch2 spaces in each shell around, join as before (14
shells)
Rnds 6+: Continue to repeat round 5 until dress is desired length (14 shells)
Fasten off red yarn, attach white to first st…
Final rnd: Ch1, work a tw sc (see special stitches) into each st and ch around, join as before (84sts)
Fasten off and hide loose ends.
Sleeve Edge
Doll’s left sleeve edging: Attach red yarn to front of sleeve edge and work a
tw sc in each st and ch across the top of the sleeve (16sts)
Doll’s right sleeve edging: Attach red yarn to back of sleeve edge and work a
tw sc in each st and ch across the top of the sleeve (16sts)

Festive Mary Jane Shoes


Worked in joined rounds from the bottom up, at the
end of each round join the first st to the last with a sl
st.
Rnd 1: With white, MR, ch1 (not a st from now on),
work 7hdc, join as above (7sts)
Rnd 2: Ch1, work 2hdc in each st around, join as
before (14sts)
Rnd 3: Ch1, work 2hdc into each st around, join
(28sts)
Rnd 4: Ch1, hdc into the back loop only of each st around, join (28sts)
Rnd 5: Ch1, hdc into each st around, join (28sts)
Rnd 6: Ch1, hdc into each of the first 8sts, sc2tog x 6, hdc in each of the remaining 8sts, join (22sts)
Fasten off white and attach red yarn to first st…
Rnd 7: Ch1, sc in each of the first 8sts, sl st into each of the next 6sts, sc in each of the next 8sts,
join (16sts & 6 sl sts)
Rnd 8: Ch1, work a tw sc (see special stitches) into each of the first 8sts, ch6 not too tightly and skip
the 6 sl sts, work a tw sc into each of the remaining 8sts, join (16sts and a ch6 space)
Fasten off and hide loose ends.

Holiday Hat
Worked in joined rounds from the top down, at the end of each
round join the first st to the last with a sl st.
Rnd 1: With white, MR, ch1 (not a st from now on), work 10hdc, join
as above (10sts)
Rnd 2: Ch1, work 2hdc in each st around, join as before (20sts)
Rnd 3: Ch1, hdc in the first st, work 2hdc into the next st, *hdc into the next st, work 2hdc into the
next st, repeat from * around, join (30sts)
Rnd 4: Ch1, work (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) into the first st, ch1, skip 2sts, *work (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) into the
next st, ch1, skip 2sts, repeat from * around, joining last st to first with a sl st (10 shells and 10 ch1
spaces)
Rnd 5: Ch1, sl st along into first ch2 space, ch1 and work (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) into the first ch2 space,
work (hdc, ch1, hdc) into the ch1 space between the shells, *work (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) into the next ch2
space in the next shell, work (hdc, ch1, hdc) into the next ch1 space between the shells, repeat from
* around, join (10 shells and 10 v sts)
Rnd 6: Ch1, sl st along into first ch2 space, ch1 and work (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) into the first ch2 space,
work (hdc, ch1, hdc) into the ch1 space in the v st between the shells, *work (2hdc, ch2, 2hdc) into
the next ch2 space in the next shell, work (hdc, ch1, hdc) into the next ch1 space in the v st between
the shells, repeat from * around, join (10 shells and 10 v sts)
Rnds 7+: Repeat round 6 until hat fits on head as pictured.
Fasten off white yarn, attach red to first st in last round.
Final rnd: Ch1, sc in each of the first 2sts, work 2sc into the next ch2
space, sc in each of the next 3sts, sc in the ch1 space, sc in the next
st, *sc in each of the next 2sts, work 2sc into the next ch2 space, sc in
each of the next 3sts, sc in the ch1 space, sc in the next st, repeat
from * around, join (90sts)
Fasten off and hide loose ends.

Poinsettia
Rnd 1: With red, MR, ch1 (not a st from now on), work 10hdc,
join last st to first with a sl st (10sts)

Rnd 2: Ch10, sl st into same (first)


st, sl st into each of the next 2sts,
*ch10, sl st into same st, sl st into
each of the next 2sts, repeat from *
around, join last sl st to first ch10
space – as pictured (5 ch10 loops
with a sl st in between each)

Rnd 3: We will now be forming the petals by working into the ch10 loops, ch1 and work (8hdc, ch3
picot (see special stitches), 8hdc) all into first ch10 loop, sl st into sl st between the loops, *sl st into
next ch10 loop, ch1, work (8hdc, ch3 picot, 8hdc) into same ch10 loop, sl st into sl st between the
loops, repeat from * around, join last sl st to first st in round with a sl st (5 petals)
Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing onto the hat.
Stamens
Using green or yellow, *ch4, sc in second ch from hook, sc in each
of the remaining 2chs, repeat from * four more times.
Fasten off leaving a long tail. Weave tail in and
out as pictured and pull tight to gather the 5 points
together.

Sew into centre of the petals as pictured and secure.


Sew flower onto hat using long tail left from making the petals and
secure in place.
Hide any loose ends.

I really hope you have enjoyed completing this pattern!


Please share your Weebee projects with us on the Weebee Appreciation Society
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