Weebee Doll Original

Boys Outfit
©2020 Text and images by Laura Tegg, all rights reserved. Finished products created with this
free pattern may be used for commercial sale. Design credit should be given to Laura Tegg
when finished products are listed for sale.
I, Laura Tegg have made every effort to ensure that the instructions in this free pattern are accurate and safe, and therefore cannot accept
liability for any resulting injury, damage or loss to persons or property, however it may arise. Names of manufacturers and product ranges
are provided for the information of readers, with no intention to infringe copyright or trademarks.
Please be aware that I only share and sell my patterns via www.ravelry.com.
If you have downloaded this pattern from anywhere else, please delete it immediately - as there are sites
where anonymous hackers upload pattern files containing viruses, allowing them to access your computer and
steal your personal and financial details.

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A little history about this outfit…

In August 2016 I published my first doll pattern, a doll called Weebee –
often referred to now as the standard size Weebee doll. The Weebee
doll base pattern originally included an outfit for a girl and an outfit for a
boy. Eventually I had to separate the doll from the clothing because
once more outfits became available people were struggling to find the
base doll for them. The outfits pattern became the Weebee Mix and
Match and it remained as such until July 2020. My patterns have come
a long way since then and people were finding the mix and match
pattern confusing because it wasn’t written as well as they are now. So I decided to revise both of
the outfits and publish them seperately! Please see the link at the top of the next page for the free
standard size Weebee doll pattern and the link below to my Ravelry store to find the free girls
outfit.
Click here to join the Weebee Appreciation Society
Facebook group dedicated to the Weebee doll patterns!
Before You Begin …
The outfit in this pattern has been designed to fit my standard size Weebee doll. You can
find the doll pattern here for free. Weebee is named after my youngest niece Phoebe - when
she was first born my daughter and Phoebe’s older sister couldn’t say her name properly yet and
she has been nicknamed ‘Weebee’ ever since.
You can find all of my doll patterns plus lots of hair and clothing/outfit patterns here.
Important Information Regarding Yarn & Hook Choice
I have tried very hard to make my clothing patterns as versatile as possible. In theory as long as
you use the same type of yarn e.g. acrylic, cotton etc., the same brand of yarn, the same weight of
yarn and the same hook size, the clothing should fit your dolls. However, some people have
commented that they have a tendency to stuff their dolls very, very firmly (one person said ‘like a
brick’) and a lot of people use cotton yarn too which doesn’t have much give. If this is you, you
may not be able to manipulate your dolls into the clothing as easily as I can, as although I stuff my
dolls firmly I don’t stuff them so firmly that I cannot pull and/or push them into the clothing with
ease. I also use acrylic yarn for my dolls and their clothing which has a lot of stretch to it.
Therefore If you tend to stuff your dolls very firmly, so that that the dolls body has very little give or
use cotton yarn, it is highly recommended that you go up at least a hook size when making the
clothing within this pattern. I have noted in the individual patterns when there is a good point at
which to try the pieces on before you work any further, so that you can rework what you have done
so far with a different sized hook if you need to.
Useful info for those who crochet left handed
Please take a look at this site for hints and tips about following crochet patterns if you are left
handed.
Which yarns did I use for my doll and clothing?
Not a recommendation as such, it’s just because I get asked this a lot. We don’t have much
choice here in the UK yarn wise, Stylecraft Special and Paintbox acrylic yarn are my absolute
favourite brands though, lovely to work with and reasonably priced ☺
Terminology: US Abbreviations Abbreviations Cont/d…
Chain (ch) Single Crochet (sc)
Other items needed:
Double Crochet (dc) Space (sp)
Stitch marker
Half Double Crochet (hdc) Skip (skp)
Tapestry needle
Loop (lp) Stitch (st)
Magic ring (MR) Slip Stitch (sl st)
Next (nxt) Yarn Over (yo)
Round (rnd)

Special Stitches
Half Double Crochet Decrease (Hdc2tog): Yo as you normally would for an hdc, insert your
hook into the next stitch, yo, then insert your hook into the next stitch, yo and pull through all of the
loops on your hook.
Front Post Half Double Crochet (Fphdc): Yo, insert hook from the front to the back around the
post of the dc on the previous row. Complete as for regular hdc.
Back Post Half Double Crochet (Bphdc): Yo, insert hook from the back to the front around the
post of the dc on the previous row. Complete as for regular hdc.
Special Techniques
Working into the Lower Back Loop

This YouTube video explains the

technique (also referred to as the
third loop in some instances)

~•~

Pattern Start
Original Boy’s Dungarees
Pant Leg – make two
Worked from the bottom up in joined rounds, at the end of
each round join the last st to the first with a sl st.
Ch20 loosely, join last ch to first with a sl st being careful not
to twist the ch.
Rnd 1: Ch1 (not a st from now on), hdc into each ch around,
joining last st to first with a sl st (20sts)
Rnds 2 – 4^^: Ch1, hdc into each st around, join (20sts)
^^Feel free to work more or less rounds of 20st as necessary
for your doll – making sure to do the same amount on the
second leg.
Before making the second leg, make sure that the first pant leg fits comfortably - if it is a
struggle to get on and/or feels too snug on the doll’s leg, rework the first leg with a larger hook and
then continue with the second leg. If it is too large and baggy, rework the first pant leg with a
smaller hook before moving onto the second leg using the same hook.
Fasten off on first leg leaving a tail long enough to sew hole between legs closed when dungarees
are finished but do not fasten off on second leg.
Continue as follows…
Rnd 5: Ch1, hdc into each of the first 5sts, attach the
second leg to the first with a hdc, continue to hdc into
the remaining 19sts around this leg and then remaining
15 around the other, join (as above) (40sts)
Rnd 6: Ch1, hdc into each of the first 9sts, work 2hdc
into the next st, *hdc into each of the next 9sts, work
2hdc into the next st, repeat from * around, join (as
before) (44sts)
Rnd 7: Ch1, hdc into each of the first 10sts, work 2hdc into the next st, *hdc into each of the next
10sts, work 2hdc into the next st, repeat from * around, join (48sts)
Rnd 8: Ch1, hdc into each of the first 10sts, hdc2tog, *hdc into each of the next 10sts, hdc2tog,
repeat from * around, join (44sts)
Rnd 9: Ch1, hdc into each of the next 9sts, hdc2tog, *hdc into each of the next 9sts, hdc2tog,
repeat from * around, join (40sts)
Fasten off and hide loose ends – using fastening off tail on first pant leg to sew up the small hole
between the pant legs.
Front Panel
At the front of the pants, identify the centre and attach your yarn to the
stitch that is five stitches to the righthand side as you’re looking at them.
Row 1: Ch1 (not a st from now on), hdc into the same st, hdc into each of
the next 9sts, turn (10sts)
Row 2: Ch1, sc into each st across, turn (10sts)
Row 3: Ch1, hdc into each st across, turn (10sts)
Row 4: Ch1, sc into each st across, turn (10sts)
Row 5: We will now make the straps. Without fastening off, ch11, sc into
the second ch from the hook, sc into each of the remaining 9chs back to the
front of the dungarees (first strap made), sl st into the same st as the ch, sl
st LOOSELY into each of the remaining 9sts across the front of the
dungarees, turn, ch11, sc into the second ch from the hook, sc into each of
the remaining 9chs back to the front of the dungarees (second strap
made) sl st into the last st on the dungarees.
Sew the opposite end of each strap to
the back of the dungarees, 8sts apart
as pictured.
Fasten off and hide loose ends.

~•~

Original Boys Beanie Hat

Worked from the top down in joined rounds. At the end of
each round join the last st to the first st with a sl st.
Rnd 1: MR, ch1 (not a st from now on), work 10hdc, join (as
above) (10sts)
Rnd 2: Ch1, work 2hdc into each st around, join (as before)
(20sts)
Rnd 3: Ch1, hdc into the first st, work 2hdc into the next st,
*hdc into the next st, work 2hdc into the next st, repeat from *
around, join (30sts)
Rnd 4: Ch1, work a hdc into each of the first 2sts, work 2hdc into the next st, *work a hdc into
each of the next 2sts, work 2hdc into the next st, repeat from * around, join (40sts)
Rnd 5: Ch1, work a hdc into each of the first 3sts, work 2hdc into the next st, *work a hdc into
each of the next 3sts, work 2hdc into the next st, repeat from * around, join (50sts)
Rnd 6: Ch1, work a hdc into each of the first 4sts, work 2hdc into the next st, *work a hdc into
each of the next 4sts, work 2hdc into the next st, repeat from * around, join (60sts)
Rnds 7 – 12: Ch1, hdc into each st around, join (60sts)
Rnd 13: Work alternate fphdc and bphdc all the way around (see special stitches), join (60sts)
Rnd 14: Ch1, sc into the back loop only of each st around, join (60sts)
Fasten off and hide loose ends.
Cat Ear – make two
Crochet in continuous spirals without joining the rounds, using a stitch marker to keep track of
where the beginning of each round starts.
Rnd 1: MR, ch1 (not a st), work 6sc (6sts)
Rnd 2: Sc into the first st, work 2sc into the next st, *sc into the next st, work 2sc into the next st,
repeat from * around (9sts)
Rnd 3: Sc into each st around (9sts)
Rnd 4: Sc into each of the first 2sts, work 2sc into the next st, *sc into each of the next 2sts, work
2sc into the next st, repeat from * around (12sts)
Rnd 5: Sc in each st around (12sts)
Pinch the bottom of the ear together with the loop on
your hook on the righthand side, ch1 and sl st loosely
through the loops on both sides to close up the bottom
of the ear.

Fasten off leaving a long tail to sew ears onto the top of the hat.
Sew the ears from round 4 on the hat downwards towards the front of the
hat at a slight angle – please see photo.

~•~

Original Boys Loafers

Worked from the bottom up in joined rounds, at the end of each
round join the last st to the first with a sl st.
Rnd 1: MR, ch1 (not a stitch from now on), work 8hdc, join (as
above) (8sts)
Rnd 2: Ch1, work 2hdc into each st around, join (as before) (16sts)
Rnd 3: Ch1, hdc into the first st, work 2hdc into the next st, *hdc into the next st, work 2hdc into
the next st around, join (24sts)
Rnd 4: Ch1, hdc into the lower back loop only (see special stitches) of each st around, joining
first st to last with a sl st (24sts)
Rnds 5: Ch1, hdc into each st around, join (24sts)
Rnd 6: Ch1, hdc into each of the first 8sts, hdc2tog x 4, hdc into each of the remaining 8sts
around, join (20sts)
Rnd 7: Ch1, sc into each of the first 8sts, sl st into the back loop only of each of the next 4sts, sc
into each of the remaining 8sts, fasten off (16sts and 4 sl sts)
Fasten off and hide loose ends.
~•~
I really hope you have enjoyed making your Weebee Boys Outfit! Please share your projects with us on the Weebee
Appreciation Society Facebook Page (link on first page), don’t forget to add your project to Ravelry and
share photo’s on social media using the tags on the first page!