Weebee Doll Original

Girl’s Outfit
©2020 Text and images by Laura Tegg, all rights reserved. Finished products created with this
free pattern may be used for commercial sale. Design credit should be given to Laura Tegg
when finished products are listed for sale.
I, Laura Tegg have made every effort to ensure that the instructions in this free pattern are accurate and safe, and therefore cannot accept
liability for any resulting injury, damage or loss to persons or property, however it may arise. Names of manufacturers and product ranges
are provided for the information of readers, with no intention to infringe copyright or trademarks.
Please be aware that I only share and sell my patterns via www.ravelry.com.
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The hair cap on the

doll modelling this
outfit can be found in
the Weebee
Cupcake Outfit
pattern here.

@lollyscc
#weebeedoll
#weebeeoriginalgirl
#crochetweebeedoll
#amigurumi

A little history about this outfit…

In August 2016 I published my first free doll pattern, a doll called Weebee –
often referred to now as the standard size Weebee doll. The Weebee doll
base pattern originally included an outfit for a girl and an outfit for a boy.
Eventually I had to separate the doll from the clothing because once more
outfits became available people were struggling to find the base doll pattern
for them. The outfits pattern became the Weebee Mix and Match and it
remained as such until July 2020. My patterns have come a long way since then and people were
finding the mix and match pattern confusing because it wasn’t written as well as they are now. So
I decided to revise both of the outfits and publish them seperately! Please see the link at the top
of the next page for the free standard size Weebee doll pattern and the link below to my Ravelry
store to find the free boys outfit.

Click here to join the Weebee Appreciation Society

Facebook group dedicated to the Weebee doll patterns!
Before You Begin …
The outfit in this pattern has been designed to fit my standard size Weebee doll. You can
find the doll pattern here for free. Weebee is named after my youngest niece Phoebe - when
she was first born my daughter and Phoebe’s older sister couldn’t say her name properly yet and
she has been nicknamed ‘Weebee’ ever since.
You can find all of my doll patterns plus lots of hair and clothing/outfit patterns here.
Important Information Regarding Yarn & Hook Choice
I have tried very hard to make my clothing patterns as versatile as possible. In theory as long as
you use the same type of yarn e.g. acrylic, cotton etc., the same brand of yarn, the same weight of
yarn and the same hook size, the clothing should fit your dolls. However, some people have
commented that they have a tendency to stuff their dolls very, very firmly (one person said ‘like a
brick’) and a lot of people use cotton yarn too which doesn’t have much give. If this is you, you
may not be able to manipulate your dolls into the clothing as easily as I can, as although I stuff my
dolls firmly I don’t stuff them so firmly that I cannot pull and/or push them into the clothing with
ease. I also use acrylic yarn for my dolls and their clothing which has a lot of stretch to it.
Therefore If you tend to stuff your dolls very firmly, so that that the dolls body has very little give or
use cotton yarn, it is highly recommended that you go up at least a hook size when making the
clothing within this pattern. I have noted in the individual patterns when there is a good point at
which to try the pieces on before you work any further, so that you can rework what you have done
so far with a different sized hook if you need to.
Useful info for those who crochet left handed
Please take a look at this site for hints and tips about following crochet patterns if you are left
handed.
Which yarns did I use for my doll and clothing?
Not a recommendation as such, it’s just because I get asked this a lot. We don’t have much
choice here in the UK yarn wise, Stylecraft Special and Paintbox acrylic yarn are my absolute
favourite brands though, lovely to work with and reasonably priced ☺
Terminology: US Abbreviations Abbreviations Cont/d…
Chain (ch) Single Crochet (sc)
Other items needed:
Double Crochet (dc) Space (sp)
Stitch marker
Half Double Crochet (hdc) Skip (skp)
Tapestry needle
Loop (lp) Stitch (st)
Magic ring (MR) Slip Stitch (sl st)
Next (nxt) Yarn Over (yo)
Round (rnd)

Special Stitches
Hdc2tog: Yo as you normally would for an hdc, insert your hook into the next stitch, yo, then insert
your hook into the next stitch, yo and pull through all of the loops on your hook.

Special Techniques
Working into the Lower Back Loop
This YouTube video explains the
technique (also referred to as the
third loop in some instances)
Pattern Start
Original Girl’s Strappy Sun Dress
Bodice
Worked from the waist up in joined rounds, at the end of each round join
the last st to the first with a sl st.
Ch40, join the last ch to the first ch with a sl st, being careful not to twist
the ch. Make sure that this chain fits comfortably around your dolls waist,
if it is too big, try rechaining with a smaller hook, equally if it is too small try
rechaining with a larger hook.
Rnd 1: Ch1 (not a st from now on), hdc into the first ch, continue to work a
hdc into each ch around, join (as above) (40sts)
Rnd 2: Ch1, hdc into each of the first 8sts, hdc2tog, *hdc into each of the
next 8sts, hdc2tog, repeat from * around, join (as before) (36sts)
Rnd 3: Ch1, hdc into each of the first 4sts, hdc2tog, *hdc into each of the next 4sts, hdc2tog,
repeat from * around, join (30sts)
Rnd 4: Ch1, hdc into each of the first 5sts, ch10, skip 5sts, hdc into each of the next 10sts, ch10,
skip 5sts, hdc in each of the remaining 5sts, join (20sts & two ch10 spaces for the arms)
Optional finishing touch: Sl st LOOSELY into each st and ch around - tidies up the edging and
thickens the straps on the dress).
Fasten off and hide any loose ends.
Before continuing with the skirt make sure that the bodice fits your doll comfortably. If it is too
small, try reworking it with a larger hook before continuing. Or if it is too big, try reworking it with a
smaller hook.
Skirt
Worked from the waist down in joined rounds, at the end of each round join the last st to the first
with a sl st.
Turn the bodice upside down and attach your yarn to the back in the centre.
To work in stripes, simply change colour for the first st in each round, starting with a contrasting
colour to the bodice.
Rnd 1: Ch1 (not a st from now on), sc into the first st, continue to sc into each st around, join (as
above) (40sts)
Rnd 2: Ch1, hdc into each of the first 3sts, work 2hdc into the next st, *hdc into each of the next
3sts work 2hdc into the next st, repeat from * around, join (as before) (50sts)
Rnd 3: Ch1, sc into the first st, continue to sc into each remaining st around, join (50sts)
Rnd 4: Ch1, hdc into the first st, continue to hdc into each remaining st around, join (50sts)
Rnd 5: Ch1, sc into the first st, continue to sc into each remaining st around, join (50sts)
Rnd 6: Ch1, sc into the first st, work 3hdc into the next st, *sc into the next st, work 3hdc into the
next st, repeat from * around, join (125sts)
Fasten off and hide any loose ends.
~•~
 Original Girl’s Pinafore
Worked from the neck down in rows.
Row 1: Ch31, sc into the second ch from the hook and into each ch
across, turn (30sts)
Row 2: Ch1 (not a st from now on), hdc into each of the first 4sts, work
2hdc into the next st, *hdc into each of the next 4sts, work 2hdc into the
next st, repeat from * across, turn (36sts)
Row 3: Ch1 (not a st from now on), hdc into each of the first 5sts, work
2hdc into the next st, *hdc into each of the next 5sts, work 2hdc into the
next st, repeat from * across, turn (42sts)
Row 4: Ch1, work 2hdc into the first st, *skip the next st, work (hdc, ch2,
hdc = shell) into the next st, repeat from * to last st, work 2hdc into the
last st, turn (20 shells with 2hdc at either end)
Row 5: Ch1, work 2hdc into the first st. work a shell into the ch2 space
of each of the next 2 shells, skip the next 5 shells, work a shell into the
ch2 space of each of the next 6 shells, skip the next 5 shells, work a
shell into the ch2 space of each of the remaining 2 shells, work 2hdc
into the last st, turn (10 shells with 2hdc at either end)
Before continuing make sure that the pinafore fits your doll comfortably at this point. If it is too
small, try reworking the above rows again with a larger hook before continuing. Or if it is too big,
try reworking them with a smaller hook.
Row 6: Ch1, work 2hdc into the first st. work a shell into the ch2 space of the next 2 shells, work a
shell (hdc, ch2, hdc) into the space underneath the first arm hole, work a shell into the ch2 space
of each of the next 6 shells, work a shell (hdc, ch2, hdc) into the space underneath the second
arm hole, work a shell into the ch2 space of each of the remaining 2 shells, work 2hdc into the last
st, turn (12 shells with 2hdc at either end)
Rows 7 & 8: Ch1, work 2hdc into the first st. work a shell into the ch2 space of each shell across,
work 2hdc into the last st, turn (12 shells with 2hdc at either end)
Row 9: Ch1, work 2hdc into the first st, sc into the space before the shell, *work 4hdc into the ch2
space in the next shell, sc into the space before the next shell, repeat from * across, sc in space
after last shell, work 2hdc into the last st (65sts)
Fasten off and hide loose end.
~•~

Original Girl’s Hat

Worked from the top down in joined rounds, at the end of each
round join the last st to the first with a sl st.
Rnd 1: MR, ch1 (not a st from now on), *hdc, ch1, rep from * 11
more times, join (as above) (12hdc & twelve ch1 spaces)
Rnd 2: Sl st into first ch1 space, ch1, work 2hdc into the same ch1
space, ch1 and skip the next st, *work 2hdc into the next st, ch1,
skip the next st, repeat from * around, join (as before) (24hdc &
twelve ch1 spaces)
Rnd 3: Sl st across into the first ch1 space, ch1, work 3hdc into the same ch1 space, ch1, skip the
next 2sts *work 3hdc into the next ch1 space, ch1, skip the next 2sts, repeat from * around, join
(36sts and twelve ch1 spaces)
Rnd 4: Sl st across into the first ch1 space, ch1, work 4hdc into the same ch1 space, ch1, skip the
next 3sts *work 4hdc into the next ch1 space, ch1, skip the next 3sts, repeat from * around, join
(48sts and twelve ch1 spaces)
Rnd 5: Sl st across into the first ch1 space, ch1, work 5hdc into the same ch1 space, ch1, skip the
next 4sts *work 5hdc into the next ch1 space, ch1, skip the next 4sts, repeat from * around, join
(60sts and twelve ch1 spaces)
Rnd 6: Sl st across into the first ch1 sp, ch1, hdc into the same ch1 space, skip 2sts and work
5hdc into the next st, skip the next 2sts, *hdc into the next ch1 sp, skip 2sts and work 5hdc into the
next st, skip the next 2sts, repeat from * around - the last set of 5hdc will have a sl st in it but just
crochet over the top of it, join (72sts)
Rnds 7 - 10: Ch1, hdc into the first st, skip the next 2sts, work 5hdc into the next st, skip the next
2sts, *hdc into the next st, skip the next 2sts, work 5hdc into the next st, skip the next 2sts, repeat
from * around, join (72sts)
Rnd 11: Ch2 (not a st), work 6dc into the first st, skip the next 2sts, sl st into the next st, skip the
next 2sts, *work 6dc into the next st, skip the next 2sts, sl st into the next st, skip the next 2sts,
repeat from * around, join (72sts)
Fasten off and hide loose ends.
~•~

Original Girl’s Mary Jane Shoes

Worked from the bottom up in joined rounds, at the end of each
round join the last st to the first with a sl st.
Rnd 1: MR, ch1 (not a stitch from now on), work 6hdc, join (as
above) (6sts)
Rnd 2: Ch1, work 2hdc into each st around, join (as before) (12sts)
Rnd 3: Ch1, work 2hdc into each st around, join (24sts)
Rnd 4: Ch1, hdc into the lower back loop only (see special techniques) of each st around, join
(24sts)
Rnds 5: Ch1, hdc into each st around, join (24sts)
Rnd 6: Ch1, hdc into each of the first 8sts, hdc2tog x4, hdc in each of the remaining 8sts, join
(20sts)
Rnd 7: Ch1, sc into each of the first 8sts, sl st LOOSELY into each of the next 4sts, sc into each of
the next 8sts, join (16sts)
Rnd 8: Sl st LOOSELY into each of the next 8sts, ch4, skp 4sts, sl st LOOSELY into each of the
next 8sts, join (8 sl sts and a ch4 space)
Fasten off and hide loose ends.

~•~

I really hope you have enjoyed making your Weebee Girls Outfit! Please share your projects with us on the Weebee
Appreciation Society Facebook Page (link on first page), don’t forget to add your project to Ravelry and
share photo’s on social media using the tags on the first page!