PA S T RY B A K E RY G E L AT O C U I S I N E

Supplemento al n. 248, giugno-luglio-agosto 2012 di Pasticceria Internazionale - Sped. in A. P. - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n° 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB TO - n. 02/2012 - IP - ISSN 0392-4718

ALL THE BASICS OF

PASTRY MAKING

THOUGHTS ON
THE CRISIS

THE QUEEN OF PASTRY

A QUESTION OF STYLE

RICE, MILK AND

CHESTNUTS

GELATO ON TOP
OF THE WORLD

BUT WHY?!

CHICAGO
RESTAURANT
PASTRY COMPETITION

NEWS

CHIRIOTTI 10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480

issue twenty-one-2012 EDITORI www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - info@pasticceriainternazionale.it
www.luxardo.it
 PA S T RY B A K E RY G E L AT O C U I S I N E

In this issue

Supplemento al n. 248, giugno-luglio-agosto 2011 di Pasticceria Internazionale - Sped. in A. P. - D.L. 353/2003 (conv. in L. 27/02/2004 n° 46) art. 1, comma 1, DCB TO - n. 01/2012 - IP - ISSN 0392-4718
All the basics of pastry making ALL THE BASICS OF
PASTRY MAKING

THOUGHTS ON
THE CRISIS

Thoughts on the crisis THE QUEEN OF PASTRY

A QUESTION OF STYLE

RICE, MILK AND

CHESTNUTS

The queen of pastry GELATO ON TOP

OF THE WORLD

BUT WHY?!

CHICAGO
RESTAURANT

A question of style
PASTRY COMPETITION

NEWS

CHIRIOTTI 10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480

issue twenty-one-2012 EDITORI www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - info@pasticceriainternazionale.it

Rice, milk and chestnuts

Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition
Gelato on top of the world 10064 Pinerolo (Torino)
Viale della Rimembranza 60
But why?! tel. +39 0121 393127 - fax +39 0121 794480
Chicago Restaurant Pastry Competition info@pasticceriainternazionale.it

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Livia Chiriotti
SENIOR EDITOR
Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti
NEWS EDITORS
Cristina Quaglia
Milena Novarino
Monica Onnis
News ASSISTANT EDITOR
Chiara Comba
Pierre’s gardens
TRANSLATIONS
The synergy for chocolate Windsor - Pinerolo
MARKETING EDITOR
Sigep 2013 anticipates trends and Monica Pagliardi
multiplies business all over the world ADVERTISING DIRECTOR
Luigi Voglino voglino@chiriottieditori.it
Quality from Sicily
ART DIRECTOR
Soft gelato enters the pastry shop Studio Impagina
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Supplement of
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More than a manual, more than a recipe book: “Tradizione in Evoluzione – Arte e
Scienza in Pasticceria” (Tradition in Evolution - art and science in pastry making) is
the evolution of what in publishing is called a best and long seller, that is the “Ma-
nuale della Pasticceria Italiana” (Italian Pastry Maker’s Manual) by Chiriotti Editori. A
true encyclopedia of more than 800 pages, written in Italian with intense passion
and a profound professionalism by Leonardo Di Carlo

All the basics

OF PASTRY MAKING

After three years of “gestation” we are proud to present “Tradizione in Evoluzione – Arte e
Scienza in Pasticceria” (Tradition in Evolution - art and science in pastry making). More than a
manual, much more than a recipe book, a real instrument for the workshop to read, read again,
Leonardo Di Carlo
consult, underline, comment… Over 800 pages and more of recipes divided into pastry ma-
king types, covering all the topics that make handmade pastry making great. A manual, which
is exhaustive in every detail in order to make it usable and useful for all. Scientific and techni-
cal explanations, in depth practical advice, recipes, variations, merits, defects, schematized pro-
cesses, notes and tricks all experienced “firsthand” by the author, Leonardo Di Carlo, who
wanted to transfer all this experience onto every page, all his studies and experiments. Leo is
in fact a professional who is never satisfied with what he already knows, but continues to mea-
sure himself against his colleagues on an Italian and international level, including experts in re-
lative fields (from chemistry to biology…), researching books and doing research in the
workshop, always searching to satisfy himself and others, first of all the true handmade pastry
making being close to his heart, fruit of tradition and evolution, as expressed in the chosen
title. A creative approach to a scientific and rigorous pastry making.
arte e scienza in pasticceria
This professional volume is therefore the result of a complex and reasoned work, because the CHIRIOTTI EDITORI

wish of the author and the editor is that of offering an instrument – we repeat the term because
we consider it the best to describe this new book – which every professional, every enthusiast, To order the book shop@chiriottieditori.it
anyone can personalize, make it their own depending on their needs, tastes, customer re- //shop.chiriottieditori.it

2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21 3
PASTRY
quests… All the basics necessary to build a
personal path, at the same time emotional
and rational, able to increase the knowledge
of what one does and how one does it.
Today this editorial project is a manual in the
true sense of the word, with photos and re-
cipes. A single volume which collects toge-
ther the notions, in order to simplify the
consultation. For more than 30 years, ac-
tion after action, we have always acted not
only for financial ends, but mainly for the
good of the sector, and the craftsmen. Not
instrumental choices, but ones mediated by
the desire to spread culture, to help the
sector grow by stimulating, helping and su-
staining it.
There is a lot more that can be said about
this manual, but there is no need to slip into
self congratulations. We invite you to read it,
to reason it, to use it, to consume it, to turn
down the pages, to underline in it, to stain it
in the workshop...
You can find information about the book and
its contents, about the backstage, and also
videos and updates about appointments with
the author on www.tradizioneinevoluzione.it,
the website where the book “comes to life”
and evolves over time.
Why such a detailed and complete book?
Because it is what I have always dreamt to
find on the shelves of the libraries over the
world.
What does it mean writing a professional
manual?
A tremendous effort, but a great satisfaction.
All that you give away, will come back to you!
Why should we buy it?
Because “I” really wrote it with the intent to
simplify and make the most complex notions
immediately understandable.
How much time have you dedicated to it?
To tell the truth, I made the first draft in 2006,
4 2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
then, reasoning and maturing, more than
three years.
Where did you start from?
Custard, and it was hard. I saw an immense
thing to do and it seemed unreachable.
The most exciting moments of this “gesta-
tion”?
The first time I saw the draft of a laid out
chapter. It is so different seeing it in print in-
stead of on file. I was really excited and sa-
tisfied.
The recipe you are most attached to?
The Sacher: just last month I created the
48th version and it makes me happy to make
colleagues realize that everything is possible
when you have the basics and the kno-
wledge.
The confectionary range that you prefer?
All of them, because each time I make a di-
scovery and find new ideas. For example for
Carnival I prepared very particular fritters and
for me this was a great satisfaction, which
encourages me, because it this that people
want and I have the possibility to always
create a challenge for myself.
What would you like a young person to learn
from this book?
That what I was missing at the beginning,
that is, serious basics and the “why” the in-
gredients, once assembled, behave in a cer-
tain way.
Why did you decide to become a pastry chef?
Partly it was decided by my destiny and par-
tly by my artistic streak, the scholastic path
of my education and my inclination to com-
municate.
What does it mean to be an artisan today?
To aim at quality and uniqueness, because
the competition from large industries is very
strong. And to also become businessmen to
all intents and purposes in order to survive our
economic system.
How important is and how much of theoreti-
cal culture is in the workshop?
A lot, we have limited ourselves to only co-
pying others recipes. And young people are
beginning to understand this, and are com-
mitting themselves to becoming the masters
of their own creations.
What is your perfect shop like?
First, it has a shop window that entices the
customers to enter, then, who is behind the
counter must be educated and motivated to
sell a “small dream”.
And the perfect workshop?
Logistics and organisation of the work at the
highest levels.
Three pieces of advice on how to face this
slump.
It will seem banal, but invest in the quality
(with a price war, you can close down), keep
yourself up to date and see new opportunities
every morning.
Your three most obvious qualities.
Passion, warmth, simplicity.
Your most obvious three defects.
Touchy, “prima donna”, fussy.
Your favourite sweet.
A well cooked millefeuille with very little
cream, so tasty, so much for diets!
Your secret dream.
I am not saying, otherwise it brings bad luck!
What would you like to do when you grow up?
... There’s still time to grow up!
L.C.
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• Quick chilling of the food
product never handled
until the vacuum bag (hy-
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• Programmable temperatu-
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• Programmable heating/
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• Variable mixing speed
between 10 and 500 rpm.
Rotation of the compo-
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NEWS

PIERRE’S GARDENS
With Infiniment Jardin, the delicy of the unpa-
ralleled macarons by Pierre Hermé expresses
itself into ad ideal walk through enchanted gar-
dens, where the abundance of aromas ad per-
fumes transforms itself into uncommon taste
matches. Every month since February a new
macaron of this original collection has been
launched in Paris, and the next ones will be Jar-
din d’Eden, basil and vanilla, in July; Jardin
d’été, lemon and caramelized fennel, in August;
Jardin Sauvage, chocolate and lime, in Septem-
ber; Jardin Oriental, orange flower, rose and
ginger, in October; Jardin d’Antan, violet and
anise, in November. www.pierreherme.com

w.piww
Jardin Oriental (on the left) and Jardin d’Antan,

ww

e .c
extra
the macarons that will be launched respectively
More pictures on

om
in October and November by Pierre Hermé.

The synergy for chocolate SIGEP 2013

K24 Evo by Bravo is a new continuous tempering ma- ANTICIPATES TRENDS AND
chine provided with all the fundamental accesso-
ries, i.e. a belt for partial or total covering with MULTIPLIES BUSINESS ALL
a release system for washing, and a flat vibra-
ting table with heated and inclined sides to fa-
OVER THE WORLD
cilitate chocolate dripping. In addition to the
advanced software that manages 8 automatic Sigep, the international expo of ar-
programs, K24 Evo also offers: thermic self- tisan gelato, pastry, confectionery
balancing, an automatic control system to and bakery production, will be held
check temperature depending on the quantity of at Rimini Fiera from January 19th
product in the machine; temperature control, to 23rd together with A.B. Tech
new generation probes working with 1/10 of de- Expo, the 3rd international expo of
gree accuracy and keeping steady temperature at technologies and products for ba-
the heart of chocolate; sheet resistance heating kery, pastry and confectionery which was acquired by Ri-
system, ensuring a precise chocolate tempera- mini Fiera, thus further strengthening the bakery
ture control. The multi-functional Trittico Execu- production chain.
tive can also work as a cycle tempering machine, Young pastry chefs from five continents will compete in
making a complete cycle every 30 minutes in its the Junior Pastry World Cup, a showcase in which the
upper tank, from which tempered chocolate can be extrac- world’s pastry art talents will show their skill on the
ted through a patented chute, without making the freezing cylin- theme “The circus of the future”. At the international con-
der dirty and avoiding any waste. Therefore the machine – which is provided by test The Star of Sugar, sugar artists from all over the
two tanks that can work indipendently together – is also fit to produce flavoured world will present their sculptures on “The clown girl”.
ganache creams for fillings (pistachio, hazelnut, coconut...), spicy chocolate, The five winning nations of the previous editions of the
products with chopped dried fruit... The advantages in chocolate making that Sigep Bread Cup (Italy, Germany, Israel, United States
derive from the synergy of Trittico Executive and K24 Evo are in terms of organi- and Hungary) will take part in the Golden Bread Cup
zation of the production site and production growth. For example, while K24 Evo with their performances and traditional recipes, inspiring
is covering with dark chocolate, Trittico Executive can be used for producing ga- a fascinating journey through the tradition of bread all
nache and, due to its speed and automatism, for managing the entire production over the world.
cycle of milk and white chocolate. Alongside there will also be Sigep Gelato d’Oro, selec-
Bravo presented K24 Evo to the Asian market ting the members of the Italian team that will take part in
in April, during Food&Hotel Asia in Singa- the next Gelato World Cup; the Junior and Senior Italian
pore, where the chefs of the Trittico Club Pastry Championships, the Italian selection for the
team performed nonstop live demos. World Chocolate Masters, as well as events highlighting
Moreover, Bravo was gelato as a healthy product and all the contests for identi-
also the silver fying and showcasing trend-setting flavours. There will
sponsor of the once again be the Cake Design Forum, with the formula
Asian Pastry that will combine a first vote via the web and the final
Cup, a live com- stage of the exhibition of trend-setting cakes directly at
petition that cul- Rimini. Moreover, there will be events connected with the
minated in the world of coffee with the Italian Barista Championships
pre-selection of the Asian teams for the world finals of the WBC (World Barista Cham-
which will compete at the World pionship), WLA (World Latte Art Championship) and
Pastry Cup 2013 in Lyon (France) WCS (World Coffee in Good Spirits Championship).
and which was won by the Austra- www.sigep.it - www.abtechexpo.it
lian team. In May Bravo moved to
Chicago at the NRA Show,
where the chefs of the French
Pastry School used Trittico Exe-
cutive for the making of gelato and
pastry desserts. www.bravo.it

6 2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
 Elegance milk

Member of:

dobla.com
INTERVIEW

An interview with Gino Fabbri, conscious professional,

highly appreciated for his empathy and equilibrium,
values, which are important these days in order to be
optimistic. Gino is the owner of a pastry store, having
the same name, in Bologna and president of the Acca-
demia Maestri Pasticceri Italiani

Thoughts on the
CRISIS
What is the attitude of the consumers towards the pastry store in this economical situation?
The sales of our products are subject to fluctuations, however we have an advantage over
other sectors, because pastries are seen as a form of gratification and therefore, in these sad
times, people feel the need to gratify themselves and we fulfill this role. A pastry rather than
a praline, as well as a croissant which has just come out of the oven are gratifying and help
to face the day in a better way.

8 2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
As a pastry chef, head of an artisan ac-
tivity, what advice can you give to col-
leagues to develop their activity and to
assert themselves on the market irre-
spective of the present economic
cycle?
I think it is right and honest to try as much as
possible to offer what the customer expects
from us. Any pastry chef is, in turn, a custo-
mer in another sector and we should behave
as we would like others to behave towards
us, that is, finding the right quality-price
ratio.
Many artisans work in a better way compa-
red to an industrial level because they can
afford to offer fresh raw materials, without
preservatives. We have to hold high the offer
of haute patisserie because the better we
work, the more we all work. A programme,
therefore, of a high standard and which is
engaging. These are small things which are
important for the customers. At this moment
in time I would advise my colleagues to
make a right evaluation, and balance the
choices of production.
Advice for young chefs?
To the younger generations I would say to
be determined in choosing the best, other-
wise it will not be only their activity that will
be damaged but all the category.
Do you think it will be necessary to re-
touch prices?
As I was saying before, our products may
be bought because they represent gratifica-
tion, but how much do they cost? We are all
selling at a lower cost if we compare it to
the prices of the fifties and sixties; if we
make a comparison we should sell at higher
prices. The problem is staying within over-
head costs without increasing the prices.
Fifty years ago there were not many cake
shops in Bologna, therefore the competition
was less fierce. Today the industrial quality
of any typology, mainly long life products, is
high and the price is lower than what an ar-

PREZIOSO
petits gâteaux

Pistachio Emmanuel Raspberry gelatine

for 3 sheets 1 for 11-12 fillings diameter 18 cm (60 for inside)
Qty % Qty %
pasteurized mixed eggs g 370 16.72 sugar g 125 22.73
trimoline g 600 27.11 sugared raspberry puree 10% g 625 75.57
flour 0 W 200-220 g 370 16.72 sugar g 63 22.73
icing sugar g 180 8.13 pectin x58 g 9 1.09
chemical yeast g 16 0.72 alginate g 5 0.60
green food colouring g 3 0.14 Mix the sugar with the pectin and alginate. Bring the raspberry puree and
salt g 4 0.18 the sugar to the boil in a saucepan. Remove from the heat and spread on
a sheet. This can be used for fillings, cubes or other.
milk g 120 5.42
butter g 300 13.56 Orange cream for filling
pistachio paste g 250 11.30 for 10 fillings Ø 18 cm with gelatine
Melt the butter. Sift the flour, icing sugar, salt and yeast powder together. Qty %
Mix the eggs, inverted sugar, and pistachio paste together in a planetary
mixer or robot. Then add the sifted flour, milk and butter melted to 45°- orange juice g 777 26.27
48°C (the temperature is very important) and the colouring. Leave to rest sugar g 466 15.75
overnight before using. Spread thinly on a silicone sheet to cook. Place pasteurized egg yolks g 435 14.71
in an oven at 220°-230°C for 6-8 minutes with valve closed. pasteurized eggs g 497 16.80
butter g 466 15.75
Cream-ricotta cheese cream gelatine leaves g 7 0.24
for 10 sweets Ø 20 cm
candied orange in cubes g 310 10.48
Qty % Soften and squeeze out the gelatine Liquidize the candied orange cubes
cream g 1,124 54.05 until they are pureed. Add all the ingredients except the butter. Continuing
sugar g 900 16.22 to stir, bring slowly to the boil to obtain a gelatinous consistency. When
orange honey g 450 8.11 the mixture has cooled down to around 35°-40°C add the butter and
gelatine leaves g 76 1,37 emulsify in a mixer. Pour or put into round mold and freeze.
ricotta cheese g 1,124 20.25
Assembly
cream g 1,876 54.05 For the filling: first put a layer of gelatine, then the orange cream and la-
Heat the cream with the sugar and honey. Add the softened and well stly the Emmanuel. Turn over and use this frozen filling as the base of the
squeezed gelatine. Pour over the ricotta cheese and emulsify in a mixer. sweet. Pour the cream-ricotta cheese cream, then a chocolate sheet,
Heat to a temperature of 28°C and add the partially whipped cream. more cream, a layer of Emmanuel and finish off with the cream. Cool quic-
kly and store. Remove from the conserver when you want to prepare it for
window display, spraying with butter and cocoa and white chocolate. De-
corate according to the filling of the sweet.

2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21 9
INTERVIEW

tisan can charge, even though he makes
marvelous products but with a higher cost,
therefore in order to be competitive he must
give something more.
Practical examples?
If the artisan, in order to lower costs, redu-
ces the quality of the raw materials, the re-
sult will be a mediocre product and in any
case with a higher price compared to an in-
dustrially produced product. Therefore the
level of quality must never be lowered loo-
king for cheaper raw materials at the ex-
pense of excellence. The problem is the
transport costs that have an important im-
pact on everything, from the workforce to
the accessories, to the paper... But I must
not reduce the quality of the product itself. If
less customers enter the shop, the impor-
tant thing is to offer always the best, also
because this trend is cyclic and sooner or
later it will change. Furthermore we know
that, if we increase prices considerably we
lose customers and it is very hard to win
them back.
How have you gone through this cyclic
pattern?
In the 70‘s, there was a considerable re-
duction in consumption but once this pas-
sed everyone was more optimistic. Now this
is not so. It was possible to see a better fu-
ture then, one knew that once that period
had passed people would have started
buying again, today we look around and we
do not know where to look, the uneasiness
can be felt.
And what considerations come to
mind?
We older pastry chefs must be the testimo-
nial for the new generations of professio-
nals, in order to have a handover that takes
into account the quality and traditions. The
Italian pastry chefs must react proposing
and perhaps rediscovering in a modern way,
pastry making with a local taste. We must
remember that, here in Italy, we have the
best raw materials in the world, such as ha-
zelnuts, almonds, citrus fruit and pistachios.
The pride in what we are and our ori-
gins, therefore?
Tradition is not just something old, but could
be the new Italian strategy of trends towards
a future that can be successful if managed
using our heads, using excellent products
without having any doubts or hesitation, but
living and acting with determination and
being proactive, both towards the customer
and the market.

THE AMPI MEETING

Last March Cast Alimenti school in Brescia ho-
sted the 19th edition of the Simposio Tecnico
AMPI, an event which, every year, reunites all
the associates of the Italian Pastry Chef Aca-
demy over three days punctuated by technical
lessons, speeches from experts coming from the
world of industry, studies of topics of common inte-
rest and exams for the new candidates. The aim of
the meeting is to stimulate a constructive comparison between col-
leagues in order to increase and widen the knowledge in techni-
ques, products and ingredients.
The most eagerly-awaited moment is, as always, that of the exams,
which include a theoretical part, during which the Committee as-
sesses the technical knowledge of the candidates on various topics
of pastry making, and a practical test, based on the preparation of
six cakes plus a pièce characterized by the use of the various de-
coration techniques. Out of the 7 candidates who went in for the
exam, the following people passed: Diego Crosara, Gianluca
Fusto, Davide Malizia, Ernst Knam (l’Antica Arte del Dolce in Milan),
Giovanni Cavalleri (Pasticceria Roberto at Erbusco, Bs) and Ric-
cardo Patalani (Pasticceria Patalani in Viareggio).
www.ampiweb.it

QUALITY FROM SICILY

Duegi Dolciaria from Modica, near Ragusa, is a leading Italian society
producing semi-manufactured items for confectionery, gelato and
ho.re.ca. The focus is on the quality of their range, which is obtained
using innovative food technology, in order to provide new taste expe-
riences.
They have recently launched the new brand Glamhour, i.e. three collec-
tions of delicacies representing the mix between flavour and style.
Sweet Glamhour is a sweet line for the clients wishing to show the fi-
nest displays in their confectionery stores; Happy Glamhour is a finger
food products line for happy hours; Ice Glamhour is intended for gelato
making and it includes cookies and sprinkles for decoration. Duegi’s
large range of products, solutions, services and specialized staff make it
a reliable partner for professionals looking for quality.
www.duegidolciaria.com

10 2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21 11
INTERVIEW

COFFEECREAM
for 10 sweets Ø 20 cm Coffee syrup
Qty %
Zabaione cream with white chocolate water g 2,200 30.14
Qty % sugar g 3,100 42.47
egg yolks g 252 9.70 Kenia Camel coffee 40% Vol. g 2,000 27.40
wine g 252 9.70 Bring the water and sugar to the boil and when cooled add the liqueur.
sugar g 504 19.40
gelatine leaves g 15 0.58 Coffee Bavarian cream
white chocolate g 315 12.12 Qty %
cream g 1,260 48.50 egg yolks g 126 4.98
Prepare a syrup with the wine and sugar. Mix together the cooled syrup sugar g 100 3.95
and the yolks and heat to a temperature of 82°-84°C. Whisk until cold, freeze-dried coffee g 20 0.79
add half of the gelatine, which has been softened and melted. Melt the
chocolate at a temperature of 40°-45°C and add to the whipped mixture.
milk g 378 14.95
Fold in the lightly whipped cream and pour into a round mold. gelatine leaves g 15 0.59
milk chocolate g 378 14.95
Coffee gelatine for filling cream g 1,512 59.79
Qty % Dissolve the coffee in the yolks and add the sugar. Heat the milk, pour
onto the mixture and cook at a temperature of 82°-84°C. Add the softe-
water g 1,140 70.28
ned gelatine and pour onto the chocolate, mix using a minipimer. Cool
sugar g 340 20.96 down to a temperature of 28°-30°C and add the lightly whipped cream.
agar-agar E 406 g 14 0.86 Pour into round molds.
gelatine leaves g 14 0.86
freeze-dried coffee g 114 7.03 Coffee brittle
sponge for rolling as required Qty %
prepared coffee for moistening as required almond praline 50% g 300 25
Mix sugar and agar-agar. Bring water to the boil, adding half of the mix- almond paste 100% g 200 16.67
ture prepared. When it comes to the boil, remove from heat and add the
coffee paste g 60 5
coffee and softened gelatin. Cool until it reaches a temperature of 26°C
before pouring into the round molds already prepared on the Silpat (130 dark chocolate 70% cocoa g 170 14.17
for each round mold). Place a mold to divide on top and moisten slightly wafer flakes g 400 33.33
with the coffee. melted butter g 70 5.83
Mix the pastes together, add the chocolate and then the wafer. Mix well,
add the butter, mix and spread out between two sheets of greaseproof
Sponge for rolls paper 600 g in weight. Cool in the freezer; cut out circles 18 cm in dia-
Qty % meter, use when needed.
almond paste 70% g 1,000 55.56
Assembly
pasteurized egg whites g 400 22.22 Starting from the base, take a round of sponge and place a round circle
melted butter g 300 16.67 of brittle on top. Pour on the Coffee Bavarian cream up to half of the
inverted sugar g 100 5.56 round and place a filling of gelatine and sponge. Finish off the round with
In a planetary mixer beat the raw almond paste, thin a little at a time with the white chocolate zabaione cream.
the liquid egg whites and the inverted sugar. When the mixture is lightly Gino Fabbri
whipped and smooth, add the hot melted butter and then beat. Spread Bologna
on sheets and bake with valve closed at 180°-190°C. Each sheet weighs www.ginofabbripasticcere.it
800-1,300 g. photos Giancarlo Bononi

Soft gelato enters

the pastry shop
NEWS

EVD is a soft-serve gelato machine by Carpigiani which stands out for its modern design, elegant
shape, and intuitive use of lights. Industry professionals who have tried it along with master instruc-
tors from Carpigiani Gelato University have been favourably impressed by its potential and innova-
tive features.
EVD is ergonomic, versatile, dynamic, and it provides its own working space, thanks to a generous
counter space and a storage cabinet incorporated into the machine itself. Today it is possible to
create innovative soft-serve products, such as large, decorated gelato cakes, gelato sandwiches of
all kinds, and an endless variety of gelato and semifreddo snacks. All can be produced quickly while
maintaining a clean working area.
EVD features cylinders with independent, dedicated motors, to obtain different types of product at
the same time, like gelato, sorbet, yogurt, and semifreddo. The machine boasts a dispensing head
that moves up and down to make it easy for the operator to fill and clean the hopper.
As soon as its work has been completed in the production area, it can be easily moved out among
customers. A strategically placed machine offers self-serve new gelato and pastry options, increa-
sing profits and encouraging return visits.
www.carpigiani.com - www.gelatouniversity.com

12 2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
Approved
Event
THE QUEEN
OF PASTRY

The Italian pastry chef Sonia Balacchi was the winner of

the first edition of The Pastry Queen, the competition reser-
ved to women professionals which took place in Rimini last
January during Sigep. Balacchi was followed by Kyung-Ran
Baccon, France, and Susan Notter, Usa. Each contestant
had to prepare a chocolate entremets, a plated dessert with
a fruit sorbet, a sugar and pastillage work and a dessert
served in a glass. Here is the winner’s chocolate entre-
mets, which is inspired to the figure of the mythological
aethiopian queen Cassiopeia, a symbol of female beauty
and vanity.

2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21 15
PASTRY

CASSIOPEA
entremets

Chocolate roll Chocolate creamy

pasteurized egg yolks g 150 milk chocolate 36% g 383
granulated sugar g 70 hazelnut paste g 56
invert sugar g 30 custard g 383
fresh egg whites g 180 gelatine golden
granulated sugar g 60 sheets 150B g 6.8
dried egg whites g 1 Put the milk chocolate drops, hazelnut paste and rehydrated gelatin in
weak flour g 35 a bowl. Pour the hot custard and emulsify to obtain a
creamy, smooth and shiny mixture.
rice starch g 25
cocoa powder g 20 Strawberry and raspberry jelly
dark chocolate 62% g 90 raspberry pulp g 282
fresh butter 82% g 80 Perigord strawberry pulp g 470
In a planetary mixer mount the yolks with sugar and invert sugar. In ano- caster sugar g 113
ther bowl whisk the whites with sugar and the dried egg whites. Stir the
gelatine golden
yolks and the melted butter into chocolate, alternating with one half of the
whites and mix gently the sieved powders. Complete the roll incorpora- sheets 150B g 22.6
ting the other half of the whites. Form two rolls on two baking sheets Mix the fruit pulp with sugar and heat at 30°C. Add the rehydrated gela-
using 375 g of the mass, spreading it evenly with a theraplette. Bake tine to a part of the pulps and heat at 60°C. Combine and mix.
at 250°C for three minutes in a fan oven.
Tiramisù cream
Almond crunchy mascarpone g 500
fresh soft butter 82% g 225 fresh cream 35% g 100
sliced white almonds g 170 custard g 165
granulated sugar g 200 espresso coffee g 13
weak flour g 45 granulated sugar g 50
salt (in a solution invert sugar g 20
with 5 g of water) g 1.5 gelatine golden
Tahiti vanilla pod n. 1 sheets 150B g 7
dry glucose 38DE g 25 dextrose g 10
Mix the ingredients in a planetary mixer with leaf, spread the mixture at 3 Stir the warm custard with coffee, sugar and rehydrated
mm of thickness. Bake at 170°C for about 15 minutes in a fan oven. gelatine. At 30°C add the mascarpone and the cream, stirring until the
mixture is smooth and homogeneous.
Custard
fresh cream 35% g 430 Passion fruit caramel toffee
fresh whole milk g 650 Isomalt g 153
pasteurized egg yolks g 320 granulated sugar g 115
granulated sugar g 160 fresh cream 35% g 48
rice starch g 18 fresh butter 82% g 48
Mix the yolks with the sugar and starch. Bring the milk and cream to a Himalayan pink salt g 1.3
boil and pour over the yolks a little at a time. Bake at 80°C. passion fruit pulp g 128
Tahiti vanilla pod n. 1
gelatine golden
sheets 150B g 9
In a saucepan melt the Isomalt and sugar and caramelize until the desi-
red color. Add the hot cream with passion fruit, vanilla and salt. Add
the rehydrated gelatine. Strain and incorporate the butter at 35°C, emul-
sifying with the mixer.

Dark chocolate mousse

custard g 302
dark chocolate 72% g 270
fresh cream 35% m.g. g 402
Pour the boiling custard on the dark chocolate drops and emulsify to ob-
tain a creamy, smooth and shiny mixture. When the ganache is at 30°C,
pour the whipped cream.

Caramel icing
granulated sugar g 525
glucose syrup 62DE g 405
fresh cream 35% g 600
Tahiti vanilla pods n. 2
milk chocolate 36% g 150
gelatine golden
sheets 150B g 30
lemon juice g 3
In a saucepan melt the glucose syrup and sugar; caramelize to obtain
the desired colour. Add the hot cream with vanilla and lemon. Add the re-
hydrated gelatine and pour on the milk chocolate drops. Emulsify to ob-
tain a smooth and creamy mixture.
Sonia Balacchi
photos Fiera Rimini

16 2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
NEWS

ALL IN ONE
With Multi Fresh Irinox has brought together multiple functions in one product, allowing the user to manage not only chilling and free-
zing processes, but also proofing and thawing. It features controlled thawing cycles, giving the possibility to set time when products
must be ready for retail. The fast thawing cycle restores frozen products to positive temperature through a combination
of temperature and ventilation, it does not damage the texture of food and keeps the organoleptic characteristics
intact.
The 4 confectionery thawing cycles are intended for miniature pastries, which have to be put on display or sliced,
for baked products and gelato. For example, Multi Fresh can take miniature pastries to -2°C, which is the suitable
display temperature, or to -12°C, which is the ideal temperature for flawless slicing.
Multi Fresh features special controlled proofing cycles, preserving the deep taste, delicate texture, right crispness,
digestibility and above all extended freshness over time of bread and other leavened products. It ensures the ideal
proofing and holding cycle (for example at night) for leavened products, until the right moment for baking. With
Multi Fresh the professional can choose the exact moment to have the product perfectly leavened and ready for
baking.
Multi Fresh has more than 90 dynamic cycles for different specialities (e.g. pies, croissants, pastry dough, mous-
ses, creams...). The right temperature, air speed, ventilation, moisture, optimum chilling and freezing times for
each food type have been carefully studied, and a large number of innovative and patented features have been
added, such as Multisensor, a probe equipped with multiple food temperature sensing points; MultiRack, a tray
rack suited to any environment (pastry, catering, etc...) that can be adjusted in terms of length and width; Sanigen,
an active ion sanitization system which guarantees total sanitization of the work chamber, food and utensils as it
works through the air, reaching the most inaccessible, hard to clean areas and making dirt "inactive".
www.irinox.com

The Relais Desserts in Alsace

In April 22-25 the Relais Desserts International met in Mulhouse, Alsace, in the
northeast of France, on the occasion of Rencontres Internationales Relais
Desserts. Their public meeting was organised by Michel and Patricia
Bannwarth of Pâtisserie Jacques (www.patisserie-jacques.com).
They spent three days of professional exchange and visits and also or-
ganized a cocktail party at the local Cité de l'Automobile (http://cite-
delautomobile.com/fr/home), one of the biggest car museums in the world,
where they welcomed 1.400 guests. The Italian members – Iginio Massari,
Luigi Biasetto and Giovanni Pina – were present together with Gino Fabbri, the
president of Accademia Pasticceri Italiani, as a guest of honour.
www.relais-desserts.net

Italians for Lyons

Originally conceived by the French MOF Gabriel Paillasson,
the Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie has been a reference
event for pastry worldwide since 1989, revealing new talents
and trends. The last Italian selection phase took place in Ja-
nuary during Sigep exhibition and the winners among 9 candi-
dates were Francesco Boccia (chocolate), Marcello Boccia
(sugar) and Riccardo Patalani (ice). The three young profes-
sionals will represent Italy in Lyon, and they are now working
hard to face the most important pastry competition in the
world, which will take place the 27 and 28 January 2013 in-
volving 22 countries. They are supported by the Club
Coupe du Monde-Selezione Italia and a group of sponsors (below), the
members of the Italian teams which participated in the last editions of the
Coupe are also helping them during their practise. ww.cmpatisserie.com

18 2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
“I am serious and motivated, with the desire to raise my profession to the highest
levels of excellence and quality”: these are the words with which the talented young
Frenchman Bastien Blanc-Tailleur loves to use when presenting himself, words
which sum up his ability and personality. We interviewed this twenty-year old Fren-
chman, now working at the prestigious Café Carette in Paris, who is in love with pa-
stry making and, in particular, with sugar art, which he develops with a style that is
personal, mixed with artistic cross references

A QUESTION OF STYLE
When did you realise you wanted to become a pastry chef?
Very early on. As a child I liked cooking and, in particular, anything to do with sweets. My grandmo-
ther was a very good cook and I loved her desserts and jams. So when I had to decide what to study,
little by little I realised that I could only work in confectionery. It was hard because I do not come from
a family of pastry chefs and I had to convince my parents in order to follow this path.
How did you arrive at the Maison Pillon in Toulouse and what did you do there?
My previous boss suggested I work there. I remained in Toulouse for three years, two years for my
apprenticeship and one year as a chef de poste. I was in charge of the special orders, the pièce
monté, the bases and the production of sugar decorations. However, since I didn’t need to dedi-
cate all my time to this, I also dealt with the production of small cakes, together with a collea-
gue.
Instead now you have moved to the capital. Tell us about the Café Carette and your
duties. What does working in Paris mean to you?
The Café Carette is a famous tearoom in the capital. The first one was opened in Place du Tro-
cadero, right in front of the Eiffel Tower, and another tearoom has been opened re-
cently in the romantic Place des Vosges. I have been working there for a few
months and I am continuing with my professional training, learning new or-
ganization and work methods. The sweets are very beautiful, delicious,
made with attention to detail and it is a great pleasure for me to partici-
pate in this adventure. I wanted to move for more than a year, but I put
off moving in order to remain a little longer in Toulouse
and to consolidate what I had learned

19
SUGAR

there. Paris remains the capital of the
sweet-toothed and it is almost an inevitable
passage for all those who wish to come into
contact with the big maison. It gives a cer-
tain prestige, even if it is not everything...
You have taken part in several compe-
titions, with gratifying results, such as
the 1st edition of the S.G. Sender Tro-
phy in Lille, in 2010, in which you were
awarded first place both for the tasting
and for the pièce in sugar. How did you
arrive at the decision to put yourself to
the test?
These competitions are an excellent means
to overcome ones limits. Moreover, at a cer-
tain point, it became important to me to
compare myself with other professionals, in
order to grow. It took an enormous effort to
prepare for the competitions, sometimes at
the expense of my personal life, but this was
a necessary sacrifice.
Yours is a very elegant style, with an
oriental imprint. Where do you get your
inspiration from?
I get a lot of inspiration from Oriental art and
from what I see around me. What follows is
the fruits of my elaboration. I read as much
as possible about different styles, with a pre-
sent preference for Art Nouveau. I am al-
ways trying to find new forms in order to
move away from the well trodden paths and
to assert my own style.
Which are the techniques that you prefer?
Pulled sugar, even if I am certain that there
are still many aspects to be explored as re-
gards the techniques of cast and blown
sugar.
Who are the professionals that you ad-
mire?
There are many. I really like what Stéphane
Leroux does from an artistic point of view
and I am fascinated by the works in sugar
and chocolate that can be admired on occa-
sion of the competitions held in Asia, for
example Hofex or the Japan Cake Show. In
France we are lucky to have numerous ex-
cellent professionals who bring prestige to
this profession. I am a fan of the Tarte Va-
nille by Pierre Hermé, of the verrine of the
Parisian confectioner’s Pain de Sucre and
of course the cakes of Sadaharu Aoki...

For small delicacies

Bigatton produces high quality ingredients not only for gelato makers but also for confectioners, offe-
ring a wide choice of products intended for professionals, thus helping them to quicken their work.
The company located in Portogruaro,
near Venice, exports all over the world
and their products can be used any-
time: the cannolo and copite line can
serve as base products for the making
of mousses, creams, chantilly and
other small delicacies. Their wafer can-
nolo is a market leader product combi-
ning wafer crunchiness with chocolate
delightfulness. www.bigatton.com

20 2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
SUGAR

In 2008 Bastien made his debut in the

world of competitions, developing the
artistic side of his profession and ac-
quiring the skill of working sugar. His
artistic work distinguishes itself for its
elegance and clean lines, with a prefe-
rence for floral motifs and stylization,
inspired by the orient and Art Nouveau.
Rève Bleu is the title of the work that
opens the article.
http://bastienpatisserie.over-blog.org

How do you see the future of your pro-

fession in general?
I am sure that the profession of pastry chef
has a positive future, even if it will be ne-
cessary to play the card of luxury in order to
stand out and to present products of excel-
lent quality. There are still many avenues to
explore and the present spirit of emulation
which is around the métiers de bouche is the
proof.

C.Q.

22 2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
GELATO

RICE, MILK
AND CHESTNUTS
Rice gelato, chestnut sauce, Parmigiano cheese, puffed rice and Parma ham
Vialone nano
veronese rice g 200
milk l 1
Boil the milk and rice together and cook for approx. 40 minutes. Liquidize and put to one side.

Rice gelato
saccharose g 300
dextrose g 50
carob g 10
rice base g 500
milk l 1
Piedmont hazelnut oil g 10
Warm the milk to 40°C, add the powders and pasteurize. Leave to rest for 12 hours, then whip
and pour into desired molds. If asses’ milk is used, add the hazelnut oil while whipping the ge-
lato.

Chocolate puffed rice

cocoa powder g 100
Vialone nano rice g 200
water l 1
salt g 5
sugar g 5
Cook the rice with all the ingredients for 30 minutes, drain and then dry at a temperature of
50°C for 15 minutes. Fry in hot oil and put to one side.

Milk and chestnut sauce

dried chestnuts g 500
milk l 1
Parmigiano cheese as required
Parma ham as required
Soak the chestnuts overnight in cold water. In a saucepan fry the Parma ham, then, add the che-
stnuts and milk. Cook. Sieve and flavour with the Parmigiano cheese. Leave to cool and put to
one side.

Assembly
rice gelato
chocolate puffed rice
milk chestnut and Parmigiano sauce
Parma ham
Place the rice gelato on a soup plate, add the puffed rice and the Parma ham.
Serve the milk, chestnut and Parmigiano sauce at a temperature of 20°C.

Alberto Marchetti
Gelateria Marchetti, Turin
Igor Macchia
La Credenza, San Maurizio Canavese, To
www.albertomarchetti.it
www.ristorantelacredenza.it
Photos Stefano Fusaro and Bob Noto

26 2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
www.sgsm.it

Tunnel Coating line

400/800

www.selmi-group.it
Via Statale, 151 - 12069 Santa Vittoria d’Alba (CN - Tel. +39.0172.479273/75 (r.a.) - Fax +39.0172.477814 - info@selmi-group.it
The Italian team won the Gelato World Cup, which took place in Rimini in January
during the last edition of Sigep. They were followed by France and Switzerland, and
the 13 competing teams were required to develop the theme "The fruits of the
Earth and Sea" through an ice sculpture, a gourmet gelato specialty, a plated des-
sert, a tub, a cone, a decorated cup, a chocolate sculpture, an entremets and a final
Grand Buffet.
The following appetizer recipe represents a celebration of Italian cuisine and an ori-
ginal gastronomic interpretation of national flavours and colours

Gelato on top
OF THE WORLD
ITALIANappetizer
PORTRAIT
Bread gelato dextrose g 60
water g 1839 glucose g 100
dextrose g 120 texture improver g 30
milk g 120 fruit base g 10
proteine g 30 Maldon salt g 1
fruit base g 30 Mix the dry ingredients and micronise them with the liquids for 2 minutes.
bread g 360 Keep the mixture in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Bring it to 70°C, then
cool to 10°C and micronise for 2 minutes. Blend it in the gelato machine.
salt g 6
extra virgin oil g 120 In Campania, since mid-nineteenth century there have been several cultivars
fresh origanum, salt of pomodorini, but the most famous are the ones growing on the slopes of
Toast the bread and pass it into the refiner. Prepare the mixture without Vesuvius. The category pomodorino del piennolo includes many biotypes se-
bread and let it stand 30 minutes. Pasteurize at 85°C. Combine the bread lected through decades by local farmers, who have given them colourful de-
and origanum, micronise and blend the mixture in the gelato machine. nominations. It’s an oval-shaped fruit with a pointed apex tip and frequent
ribbing on the peduncular part, a vermilion red thick skin, a weight not ex-
Tomato gelato ceeding 25 g, a red pulp of high consistence, a lively, intense, sweet and
pomodorini del piennolo ‘e curti* g 2000 sour taste. The peculiarity is their antique conserving practise called al pien-
nolo, i.e. ripe tomatoes are tied together in bunches forming big clusters,
datterino tomatoes g 1000 which are hanged at the roofs of rural farm houses.
polyfloral honey g 100
granulated sugar g 60
salt g 30 White tomato jelly
garlic g 3 beefsteak tomatoes g 1000
Sarawak pepper, fresh thyme, grated lemon peel salt g 10
Wash the tomatoes and marinate them with the other ingredients. Bake Clean the tomatoes and mix them 2 minutes with the salt. Place in a sieve
at 100°C for about 90 minutes. Sift. and let them drain for 3 hours. Freeze the liquid, mix it and place in a strai-
ner with paper. Keep the water.
tomato juice g 650 tomato water g 250
water g 89 agar agar g 4
trehalose g 40 salt

2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21 29
GELATO

Mix agar agar with 100 dl of tomato water, then bring it to a boil. Com- the earliest version. In addition to the original recipe, many variations are
bine the other water and salt. Put in molds and in the refrigerator until found most often in countries where large numbers of Italians immigrated.
use. Warm in the oven at 70°C before serving. While parmigiana usually means "from Parma", a town in Northern Italy, the
dish is not part of the cuisine of Parma, but is a Southern Italian dish (clai-
med by both Campania and Sicily).
Glacier lettuce
glacier lettuce g 200 Salted sablé with taggiasche olives
extra virgin olive oil g 50 salted butter g 60
lemon juice g 20 tapenade of taggiasche olives g 50
grated lemon peel g 5 trehalose g 60
sugar g 10 sucrose g 40
Maldon salt g 2 flour g 100
Sarawak white pepper hazelnut flour g 100
Wash the salad carefully. Mix the remaining ingredients salt g 3
and pass it to the chinoise. Dress the salad using a nebulizer. Mix all ingredients to obtain a sablé. Put in refrigerator until use. Spread
it out to a thickness of 1 mm. Then cut it into 7 mm x 3 cm pieces and
bake at 170°C.
Buffalo ricotta cheese
buffalo ricotta g 250 Tapenade is a Provençal specialty consisting of puréed or finely chopped
Maldon salt, Sarawak white pepper olives, capers, anchovies and olive oil. Its name comes from the Provençal
word for capers, tapenas, and it is a popular food in the south of France,
gelatine g 2
where it is generally eaten as an hors d’œuvre, spread on bread.
mozzarella cheese whey g 50
egg whites g 20 Marinated red prawns in breadcrumb crust
Mix the buffalo ricotta cheese with gelatine, mozzarella cheese whey, salt
and pepper. Put the mixture in molds and after in the blast chiller. Bake
red prawns n. 30
ricotta at 180°C when serving it. extra virgin olive oil g 50
basil g 10
Basil macarons salt g 3
almond powder g 300 grated lemon peel g 15
icing sugar g 300 flour g 100
egg whites g 110 eggs n. 5
centrifuged basil breadcrumbs g 100
Put in the robot coupe the almond powder and icing sugar. Sieve the mix- Maldon salt
ture, add the whites and the centrifuged basil. Clean the prawns and put them under vacuum with extra virgin olive oil,
basil, salt and lemon peel for about 3 hours. Cut them in half and leave
egg whites g 110 the inner end. Roll them in flour first, then into eggs and breadcrumbs. Fry
granulated sugar g 30 + 300 them in cocoa butter until golden. Add salt and pepper.
water g 100
Bring 300 g of sugar and water at 110°C. Pour over the whites lightly Caper crispy
whisked with 30 g of sugar. Whisk until 32°C. Add the meringue to the rice flour g 50
first mixture. Spread on a silicone baking sheet and bake about 14 minu- melted butter g 50
tes with open valve. egg whites g 30
dried capers g 30
Eggplant Parmigiana
sugar g 150
fresh eggplants g 500 Mix the dried capers with sugar and mix them with the other ingredients.
salt Let them rest in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours. Spread out a thin
tapenade of taggiasche olives g 40 layer of caper mixture on Silpat using a spatula. Bake at 160°C until gol-
miso g 40 den and form a spiral.
rice vinegar g 20
water g 10 Confit and lemon oil
sugar g 30 lemon n. 1
extra virgin olive oil g 30 sugar g 70
Parmigiano Reggiano g 50 water g 100
buffalo mozzarella g 50 extra virgin olive oil g 150
green basil Maldon salt
Peel the rind of the lemon with a potato peeler, then cut it into julienne
Sarawak dark red pepper strips. Make a syrup with sugar, water and lemon strips, and cook about
Maldon salt 20 minutes. Leave the peel in syrup for 1 hour. Emulsify the extra virgin
Wash and peel the eggplants, cut them into slices and add the salt. Let olive oil with 30 ml of lemon syrup, the juice of 1 lemon and Maldon salt.
them dry for 2 hours, then cut into small cubes. Cook the cubes with all
the ingredients for about 1 hour, except the Parmigiano Reggiano and the Black olive oil
buffalo mozzarella. Add the cheeses, salt and pepper. Bring to 90°C be-
fore serving.
extra virgin olive oil g 100
taggiasche olives g 50
Parmigiana (a short form of Parmigiana di melanzane) is an Italian dish (dried in a oven at 60°C for 24 hours)
made with a shallow-fried sliced filling, layered with cheese and tomato arbutus honey g 30
sauce, then baked. Parmigiana made with a filling of eggplant (aubergine) is Emulsify all the ingredients.

30 2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
Basil sorbet
water g 1665
white cane sugar g 45
dextrose g 90
glucose g 240
trehalose g 210
inulin g 30
fruit base g 30
fresh basil g 300
white cane sugar g 300
lemon juice g 90
Prepare the mixture without basil and lemon. Let it rest at least 30
minutes. Mix the white cane sugar with fresh basil and lemon
juice. Pasteurize at 85°C, then cool and micronize with the mix-
ture of basil. Blend in the gelato machine. Fill some spherical
moulds of 2 cm diameter and freeze.

Fake tomatoes with basil flavor

tomato powder g 100
basil sorbet balls n. 15
tomato sauce g 500
gelatine g 20
Maldon salt, extra virgin olive oil
Stir and bring to 80°C the tomato sauce with gelatine and salt.
Roll the basil sorbet balls in the tomato powder. When the gela-
tin is at 60°C, dip the balls of sorbet with basil and keep at -12°C.
Before serving, drizzle with some extra virgin olive oil.

Taggiasche olive powder

taggiasche olives g 150
Dry in the oven at 60°C for 24 hours. Mix and sift.

Crystallized basil leaf with cocoa butter, sugar and salt

basil leaves n. 15
cocoa butter, salt, sugar
Wash the basil leaves. Dip them in cocoa butter at 30°C and cry-
stallize with salt and sugar. Allow to stand for one day.

ASSEMBLY
Put the bread gelato on the dish, and place on it a cube of to-
mato sorbet wrapped in tomato powder. On the cube place a cir-
cle of caper crispy with a false tomato stuffed with basil sorbet
and put a basil leaf on it. Place the glacier lettuce, the lemon con-
fit and a macaron filled with some warm eggplant parmigiana and
then the salted sablé with taggiasche olives, some transparent
tomato gelatine, the warm buffalo ricotta cheese and a red prawn
in breadcrumb crust.

Ernst Knam, Leonardo Ceschin, Filippo Novelli

Francesco Falasconi, Andrea Olivero
in collaboration with Pierpaolo Magni e Diego Crosara
photos Enrico Minasso
www.coppamondogelateria.it

2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21 31
NEWS

Liqueur excellence
The Luxardo family has owned a liqueur distillery for ne-
arly 200 years. Named Girolamo Luxardo, the business
is based in Torreglia, near Padua, and is as committed as
ever to creating excellent liqueurs. Luxardo was originally
founded in Zara, now the Croatian city of Zadar, under
Austrian rule. Girolamo Luxardo, a gentleman and diplo-
mat from Genova and his wife Maria Canevari moved there in 1817, and she began experimenting with liqueurs soon after. In 1821, Mr. Luxardo
founded a distillery to produce Maraschino, and within eight years the liqueur had attracted the attention and approval of the Emperor of Austria.
The liqueur factory remained in Zara until the 1940s, when the city was considerably damaged in World War II. The only surviving fourth-
generation Luxardo, Giorgio, moved to Torreglia: there he, along with younger Ni-
colò, made a new start for an old brand, and the distillery has remained there until
the present day, still owned completely by the family.
Piero Luxardo is now the president of the company, and five other members are
part of the enterprise: Filippo, Matteo, Giorgio, Guido and Franco Luxardo. The
distillery employs about 45 people, as well as about 100 salespeople throughout
Italy. Luxardo continues to create liqueurs, as well as flavoured aromas and pre-
served fruit. The company is the worldwide market leader in Maraschino cherry
liqueur production, and other popular liqueurs are Amaretto and Sambuca; the
aromas are created in alcoholic and non-alcoholic varieties and are fit for con-
fectionery. They also produce jam and preserved maraschino cherries for
cocktails.
With a production of 6,000 bottles per hour, the 6,800 m2 factory is very self-
sufficient and does most of its work in-house, being proud of the made in Italy
designation of products. The distillery has its own laboratory, quality manage-
ment and automation equipment. “Our business’s compact size allows us to The Luxardo family. Above, Luxardo’s headquarter in
be faster and more flexible, especially in creating new products and bringing Torreglia.
them to market,” says Franco Luxardo. The company even grows many of its
own fruits: the cherries needed for liqueurs and preserved maraschino cherries are produced by 22,000 Luxardo-owned Marasca
cherry trees. Alongside the classic, bestselling Maraschino cherry liqueur, Luxardo’s second flagship product is cherry Sangue Mor-
lacco liqueur.
About 2/3 of products are exported and sold through distributors in about 70 countries, especially in the UK, Canada, Japan and the
USA. Luxardo also participates in international trade shows, as opportunities for the company to showcase its wares and interact with
a vast array of customers and potential leads. Moreover, in 2011 seven of the company’s liqueurs have been awarded bronze, silver, or
gold medals in various international competitions. www.luxardo.it

Two classic shapes for a modern cake

The Tortaflex range by Silikomart is well known thanks to the high quality of its
made-in-Italy silicone moulds. It has been enlarged including a new design of
the traditional Savarin mould (SAV), which is now available in 2 diameters: ø
180/60 h 50 mm and ø 160/80 h 40 mm. The latter can be used both indivi-
dually and as an insert of the Savarin ø 180/60 h 50 mm mould. The two
moulds are sold either separately (single reference number) on a 60x40 cm po-
lycarbonate tray containing 6 pieces of the same dimensions, or in a Kit (Lady
Queen) composed of 3 plus 3 moulds. Their use allow to obtain flawless des-
serts, which even though being traditional, have a touch of novelty.
The two moulds were originally conceived by Silikomart for the Pastry Queen
competition of last Sigep, which involved women pastry professionals and was
won by the Italian Sonia Balacchi. www.silikomart.com

32 2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
The man who has received all the most important awards in the cuisine field does
not need a presentation: it is Massimo Bottura, chef at the Osteria Francescana in
Modena that with his affirmation, which gives the title to this piece, closes the inter-
view

BUT WHY?!
Three Michelin stars, fourth place in the Worlds 50 Best Restaurant Awards, title of Chef’s
Choice, that is, the favourite among the best colleagues in the world; a rating of 19.75/20
in the Espresso guide, Grand Prix de l’Art de la Cuisine: these are only some of the most de-
sirable awards won by one of the greatest representatives of Italian cuisine in the world. We
are speaking about Massimo Bottura, chef of the restaurant Osteria Francescana in Mo-
dena who, in the heart of the old town, has created a modern and welcoming space, where
he narrates the story of tradition in evolution. Dishes such as Compressione di pasta e fa-
gioli (Compression of pasta and beans) and the Bollito non bollito (Boiled/not boiled meat)
– contemporary vision of centuries of Italian cuisine influenced by experiences abroad – are
such examples. There are three tasting menus, all having distinctive characteristics: the Tra-
dizionale, which captures the classical side of the land of Modena without losing sight of the
avant-garde. The Classic menu brings together those dishes that have traced a path linked
to the evolution of the raw materials, following the concept of Bottura “the territory seen from
a distance of 10 km”, and instead consists of dishes such as Nero su nero (Black on black),
Omaggio a T. Monk (Tribute to T. Monk); Le 5 stagionature del Parmigiano Reggiano
in temperature e consistenze (The 5 maturings of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese in tem-
perature and consistency); Ooops! Mi si è rotta la crostatina… (Oooops! The Tart is bro-
ken…), and, lastly, the third menu, which is Le Sensazioni (The Sensations), the one in which
the chef tries to mentally detach himself from his land, putting the technique on stage, in a
global vision, in order to rediscover memories and sensations, with the clear aim of tran-
smitting emotions. The same that we perceive also through the words of this interview which
has been carried out over several meetings and which also features the pastry chef Franco
Aliberti, who has just become a member of the team.

2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21 33
INTERVIEW

presses and gives form to my passions,

Massimo, let’s talk about you and your
cuisine: how would you define it?
A cuisine of the territory, seen from a di-
stance of 10 kilomentres. I drew on an
idea by Gino DeDominicis, in which the ar-
tist, urged by an important collector,
agreed to paint this person’s portrait. After
a couple of hours of “absolutely no-
thing”, DeDominicis asked the model to in-
spect the canvas and who, on seeing it
blank, with only a black dot in the centre,
irritated asked for an explanation: “It is your
portrait seen from a distance of 10 kilo-
metres”. It is in these words that what I try
to express is enclosed: “my” territory, seen
in a modern, up-to-date, contemporary
light.
If you had to express yourself as a
dish, what would you choose?
Tortellini.
You described your cuisine as being in
evolution: what does this mean?
Tradition is the result of successful experi-
ments, and because of this traditions
should be in constant evolution. As far as
I am concerned, I try to give the best sup-
port to the products of my territory, which
must express themselves in a system of
self-sufficiency. This is a concept that is
very important to me: to be able to create
a “system” on the territory, shortening the
supply chain so as to give an image of our
land that is solid and well-characterized.
Tradition, innovation, art, fusion,
music: how do all these aspects coe-
xist in your dishes?
My cuisine is contemporary, therefore, it is
normal that it is influenced by everyday life,
without being swallowed up by it, though.
At the same time, it is natural that it ex-
such as art and music.
Raw materials and technique: which
prevails?
The idea. The technique and raw materials
are one at the service of the other in order
to achieve the idea.
In your cuisine, is it the sweet that has
contaminated the savoury or vice-
versa?
What difference does it make? The impor-
tant thing is to not see any boundaries.
The dish must be good and healthy, any-
thing else fades into the background.
Which are, if any, the common points
between cuisine and pastry making?
At the Osteria Francescana there are no
differences. It all belongs to one world, one
environment where ideas are exchanged
and developed.
What does a dessert represent inside
a menu and how is it conceived?
Exactly in the same way as the other di-
shes, which often come from considera-
tions and ideas around which they are
created such as, for example, the answer
to an abstract question we have asked
ourselves.
What distinguishes a dessert?
The fact that we consider it the final part of
a journey, the final image, the last memory.
In fact our menu “Sensazioni” (Sensations)
starts with a granita, the same that I ate at
Corrado Assenza from Noto (Sicily), a
sweet-savoury prospective.
Art and music, two constants that
have always accompanied life and
work: in what way have they left an in-

SWEET TALKING

FRANCO ALIBERTI, THE NEW ENTRY AT THE OSTERIA FRANCESCANA

How is your experience in sensorial experimentation going?
It will be a starting point, something that will embrace, in a three dimensional way, all the aspects of gastronomy, from
savoury to bitter, which before I was missing. In the meantime, I will start with the pasta dishes.
Research for naturalness and experimentation. Where is the balance?
The respect for the raw materials, always and above all! Instead, the techniques give us the possibility to rediscover
the product within the dish, conveying a second life, there, right in front of the guest.
What would you like to “give” to this new adventure?
More than “give” it is a question of sharing. This is the right spirit in an environment like La Francescana: the sharing
of philosophy and ideas.
Desserts will always have a typically sweet tone or will research lead to other paths?
As I said before, the paths are long and full of surprises. We have started to work on the breakdown of the boundary
between savoury and sweet. An extreme breakdown, of 360 degrees, with an aim to eliminate any barrier in a conti-
nuous fusion of research and experimentation.
Play, nature, research, memory: which will be your path?
Join the dots… all of them!

34 2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
INTERVIEW

Mango. Breaking the boundary between sweet and savoury.

delible mark?
They are my great passions through which, filtered by my memory,
I try to transmit emotion.
Looking abroad, from a gastronomical point of view, which
are the countries that intrigue you the most?
Peru and Brasil.
Which direction will the restaurant industry take in the next
few years? Imagine a cow grazing.
Towards a new sense of group, of belonging, creating strong sy-
nergies between chefs that work with common goals and aims, One last question, for fun: Massimo Bottura interviewing
but in different territories. In Italy we already have a fantastic group Massimo Bottura: What would you like to ask yourself?
of friends, from North to South, which is only waiting to expand! But why?!
This last year you have received important awards. What are Monica Onnis
Photos by Paolo Terzi,
your projects for the future? Per-Anders Horgensen,
In my future I see only the future. Elliot Erwitt

Oooops! The tart is broken…

Mint sauce lemongrass, pieces n. 10
fresh peppermint g 250 sugar g 120
mineral water g 100 glucose syrup g 50
xylitol g 30 lemon peel n. 2
essential oil of mint g 0,5 Place all ingredients inside the Termomix and bring to 85°C at speed 7.
Boil some water in a small saucepan, blanch the mint for 10 seconds and Once the temperature has been reached, turn off, filter and cool over ice.
cool down in water and ice. Liquidize the mint with the other ingredients, Pour the mixture into a recipient for the Pacojet and freeze.
making sure the temperature does not rise over 35°C. Strain using a fine
mesh sieve. Puff pastry cups with spices
flour g 500
Lemon Zabaione butter g 400
lemon juice g 80 icing sugar g 200
limoncello from the Amalfi Coast g 80 egg yolks g 70
egg yolks g 85 mixed spices; star anise, cinnamon,
sugar g 50 juniper, pepper, cardamom g 20
Prepare a saucepan of boiling water and a stainless steel bowl that can
fit inside the saucepan. Mix the butter and sugar together using the tips of the fingers so as to
Once it has come to the boil, turn off the heat. Beat the egg yolks and the heat the butter as little as possible. Mix in the egg yolks and then the flour.
sugar in the bowl away from the heat. Start to whip energetically using a Mix well. Leave to rest for 2 hours, roll out the tartlets and place in the
whisk, placing the bowl in bagnomaria adding first the lemon juice and moulds and bake for 8 minutes at 160°C. Serve as in photo, inserting
after, gradually add the limoncello. candied lemon (peel and pulp), aromatic vegetable charcoal, apple mo-
Whip until it is very light. starda, candied ginger, lemon powder.
Massimo Bottura
Lemongrass gelato Ristorante La Francescana, Modena
www.lafrancescana.it
fresh milk g 800
Photos by Paolo Terzi
cream g 200

36 2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
 37
2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
PASTRY

The 1st Chicago Restaurant Pastry Competition, organized by Jimmy MacMillan, of JMPu-
repastry and the Chicago School of Mold Making, assembled four of Chicago’s top pastry
talents to vie for the gold. Pastry chef Sarah Kosikowski, by Sixteen Restaurant at the
Trump International Hotel Chicago, finished in top due to her technical ability, concise flavours,
and clean planting of her dessert Choco Noix De Coco. She edged out her competitors on
we the mistery box amuse challenge and collected the top prize. All the videos of the
piw .c
competition, the recipes and an interview with Sarah Kosikowski are on our web
extra
om
www.

site, www.piwwe.com

Sarah Kosik
owski is the
1st Chicago winner of th
Re e
tition. The de staurant Pastry Com
ssert in this pe-
mistery box page is the
amuse Gre
freddo Bar en Tea Sem
Yu i-
Cherry (pho mberry Foam, Amaren
to by Anthon a
y Tahlier).

Waiting for the second time of the

Chicago Restaurant

PASTRY
COMPETITION
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PASTRY

Choco Noix de Coco

Yields 8 portions ture and gently fold. Spread onto a silpat and sprinkle with ginger salt.
Once set, break into pieces and use as garnish.
Flexible Cocoa Sablé (base)
cold diced butter g 66 White Cinnamon Confiture de Lait
flour g 75 white cinnamon g 1
cocoa powder g 43 milk g 665
almond flour g 66 sugar g 165
10x sugar g 54 salt g 1
grape seed oil g 15 Tahitian vanilla bean n. 1
Tainori chocolate 64% g 33 Combine all ingredients except cinnamon in a saucepan and cook on
Combine all dry ingredients on a Kitchenaid and mix with paddle. Add med-high heat until thickened (about 1 hour). Remove from heat and
cold butter and mix just until a coarse meal texture is acquired. Place on strain. Add cinnamon and burr mix to a smooth consistency. Refrigerate
a Silpat and bake at 163°C (325°F) for 15 minutes, stirring and rotating until ready to use.
during baking. Cool and process in a robot coupe with oil and melted Brown Butter Sorbet
chocolate until smooth. Roll dough between two Silpats and freeze until water g 430
firm. Use rectangle rings to cut bases and keep frozen until ready to use.
xanthan gum g 2.7
Coconut Fluid Gel Inserts brown butter solids g 53
coconut puree + more for blending g 400 dextrose g 27
agar g 4.4 sugar g 130
sugar g 38 trimoline g 33
dark rum g 48 salt g 2.7
coconut extract g 7.2 Boil the water and place in a high speed blender with the xanthan. Blend
pandan extract g 0.5 on high until all the xanthan is absorbed. Add the brown butter solids and
Heat puree in a saucepan. Combine sugar and agar, whisk into puree continue to blend until completely dissolved. Add the remaining ingre-
and bring to a boil. Boil for 1-2 minutes, remove from heat and add rum dients and blend smooth. Strain through a chinois into Paco Jet contai-
and extracts. Pour into a shallow pan and refrigerate until set. Place in ners and freeze. Spin and serve.
Vita-Prep and blend until very smooth, adding more liquid if needed. Pour Caramel Caviar
gel into a piping bag and fill Fleximolds. Freeze until solid and unmold.
Keep frozen until ready to use. cream soda g 100
sodium alginate g 0,8
Chocolate Crème vanilla sugar g 4
milk g 563 gold dust g 0.1
cream g 63 caramel paste g 5
sugar g 25 water g 300
agar g 3.8 calcium chloride g 3
gelatin mass g 17.5
Combine sodium alginate with sugar and gold dust. Combine cream soda
cream g 250 and caramel paste and burr mix in dry mixture. Combine water and cal-
milk chocolate g 375 cium chloride. Place caramel liquid in a squeeze bottle and pipe droplets
chocolate 64% g 63 into calcium chloride solution. Immediately remove with a slotted spoon
Combine milk, cream, sugar and agar and bring to a boil. Add gelatin and place in clean cold water. Chill until ready to serve.
mass to hot liquid and stir to melt. Combine chocolates and melt to 40°C.
Slowly pour hot liquid over chocolate and create an emulsion. Burr mix Chocolate Toast
and set aside to cool. Lightly whip 2nd cream and fold into chocolate flour g 175
mixture when it reaches 38°C. Fill rectangular rings (with sablé base) cocoa powder g 65
half way, insert frozen coconut tube and cover with chocolate cream. Let baking powder g 2
set in cooler until firm. Unmold by warming ring with a torch and trim baking soda g 1.5
edges with a hot knife before serving.
salt g 1.5
Coconut Rocher vanilla extract g 6
milk chocolate g 235 milk g 19
feulletine g 106 butter g 170
coconut rapè g 14 sugar g 318
sliced almonds g 62 eggs g 125
Muscovado streusel g 82 sour cream g 140
qinqer salt Combine all dry ingredients and set aside. Cream butter and sugar until
as needed fluffy and add vanilla and milk. Add eggs slowly, scraping down several
Toast coconut and sliced almonds separately and set aside to cool. Com- times. Alternate adding the sour cream and the dry mixture until everything
bine all ingredients except chocolate. Temper chocolate, pour over mix- is incorporated.
Bake in a half hotel pan lined with parchment and sprayed at 163°C
(325°F) for 12 minutes. Let cake cool slightly, then unmold and freeze.
When very firm, slice on a mandolin and place on a silpan. Toast at 149°C
(300°F) for 12 minutes. Cool and remove from silpan; use as garnish.
Photo Anthony Talier

Assembly
Take chocolate crème (finished with cocoa sablé base and coconut fluid
gel insert) and unmold from ring using a torch. Trim ends with a hot knife
to expose insert. Using a spoon, drag two lines of confiture de lait across
a large rectangle plate. Place a chocolate curl in the centre of the plate.
Carefully lay the chocolate crème directly in the centre of the curl. Crush
a small amount of the rocher to hold sorbet and sprinkle on top of the
cream, along with two larger pieces of rocher. Add a teaspoon of caviar
to the plate on each side of the crème, along with a few drops of coco-
nut syrup. Quenelle sorbet and put directly on the middle of the crème.
Finish with two slices of chocolate toast. Serve and enjoy.

Sarah Kosikowski

40 2012 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 21
My world has changed.
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Multi Fresh®, a new way of working

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tool! IRINOX. THE FUTURE OF CONFECTIONERY STARTS HERE. T. +39 0438 5844 - www.irinox.com
 To keep waste down

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To respect temperatures and

times of the cooking and
cooling process
Utmost hygiene standards

Low consumptions

pictures taken during a pastry event sponsored by Bravo Spa, November 22nd 2011, Milan

Technology at disposal of pastry tradition

Bravo learns the most important novelties and turns them into technology for its machines, transforming
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