Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition 2010-10

PA S T RY B A K E RY G E L AT O C U I S I N E
EASTER CHOCOLATE EGGS
GIANLUCA FUSTO’S PROFILE
SICILIAN CONFECTIONERY TRADITION
PASTRY AND CUISINE RECIPES
TECHNOLOGY AND PRODUCT NEWS
CHIRIOTTI 10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480

issue sixteen-2010 EDITORI www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - info@pasticceriainternazionale.it
On this issue
Meeting between hemispheres
thinking of a playful solution
Chocolate Easter eggs
Capri Sweet
Sweet Sensations Of Sicily

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Recipes From The Ifse EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Red as love Livia Chiriotti
SENIOR EDITOR
Emilia Coccolo Chiriotti
NEWS EDITORS
Cristina Quaglia
Milena Novarino
Monica Onnis
ASSISTANT EDITOR
Chiara Comba
TRANSLATIONS
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MARKETING EDITOR
News Monica Pagliardi

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR
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Interpretations ART DIRECTOR
between past and future
Studio Grafico Impagina
Caramel glaze PRINTED BY
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PASTRY
MEETING BETWEEN
HEMISPHERES
thinking of a playful solution
We were speaking of Gianluca Fusto, class of 1975, before he became a
household name thanks to his brilliant career first as chef pâtissier in renow-
ned restaurants, then as a Valrhona demonstrator.
He was a student at the Carlo Porta hotel-management school of Milan, when
we awarded him a prize. Since then we have met several times – the world of
sweets is a small one indeed – with increasing regularity; we admire the diffi-
cult path he has taken for his training, and his ability to bring together, with hu-
mility and a strong desire to understand, culture, science, history, research
and experimentation, all mixed with the instinct and courage of going beyond.
And these are the primary elements of his love and passion for confectionary.
Gianluca expresses these feelings in the way he acts, speaks and researches;
they have let him acquire his own personal style in which details are funda-
mental.
And it is with the details that we begin our chat, which both of us wanted, so
as to be able to talk about this new phase in Gianluca's professional develop-
ment, and more.
WHAT GIANLUCA FUSTO DOES IS

CREATIVE MATHEMATICS, MANAGING
TO BRING TOGETHER THE TWO HEMI-
SPHERES OF HIS BRAIN: THE EMOTIVE
AND THE RATIONAL. AND THE RESULT
IS A PROFESSIONAL IN CONTINUAL
EVOLUTION, HUNGRY FOR RESEARCH
AND CHANGE, YET WITH SOUND IDEAS
ABOUT TECHNIQUE, TECHNOLOGY,
INGREDIENTS, AND THE FUTURE OF
UNICAMENTE NOCCIOLA (ONLY NUT) DEVELOPS THE SIMPLICITY AND ELEGANCE OF
THE SECTOR, INCLUDING A SEARCH NOCCIOLA TONDA GENTILE PIEMONTE IGP, A SUPERIOR VARIETY OF ITALIAN HAZELNUTS.
THIS MODERN CAKE IS COMPOSED BY A BISCUIT MADE OF JIVARA CHOCOLATE AND HAZEL-
FOR PLAYFULNESS NUTS, GRACEFULLY MIXED WITH A LIGHT CARAMELIZED CHOCOLATE MOUSSE, PERFUMED
WITH MACIS (THE FLOWER OF NUTMEG); THE LOT IS WRAPPED IN A WHITE CHOCOLATE AND
HAZELNUT MOUSSE WITH SALTY FLAKES. THE CAKE IS GLAZED WITH A LEMON SCENTED
PRALINATED GLAZE, AND THE DECORATION, IN ITS SIMPLICITY, MAGNIFIES THE ELEGANCE
OF HAZELNUTS.
2 2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16
What he represents today is a synthesis of
his past and of the people he has met, be-
"Aimo Moroni taught me how to respect the raw
ginning with Aimo Moroni, a father of sorts,
and not only professional. "Working at his
material; Frédéric Bau, Yann Duytsche and the
side means letting oneself be permeated by l’Ecole du Grand Chocolat Valrhona taught me
the magic of ingredients, the alpha and
omega of a style of cooking that listens," he the rigour of technique, rheology and taste"
confides. And then there are other names:
Enrico Parassina, the master of sugar, How do you act in practice? aesthetic isomorphism. It is a journey to the
gave him a feel for the range of colours, I follow the dogma "separate and bring to- heart of matter that finds confirmation in our
while prominent members of the French gether". I enjoy moving in the wake of the senses. And the final alchemy happens
Ecole du Grand Chocolat Valrhona, Frédé- elements that form matter, following one when technique, attention to detail and per-
ric Bau and Yan Duytsche, conveyed pre- rule: three products, three structures, three fectionism turn into joy, gourmet pleasure,
cision, rigour and technique. At Tain consistencies, three temperatures, three co- and a smile.
l'Hermitage Gianluca arrived at the start of lours. In short, the multiples of three diffe- Could you describe exactly what ele-
the new millennium as first foreign pastry rent sensations to provide the palate with ments you take into consideration?
chef: working side by side with chemists, complete emotion. Using completeness of taste as a starting
physicians and food engineers let him un- Then I move in the direction of essence, point, you seek to satisfy and interact with
derstand better the world of ingredients, also where thematic suggestions intersect with the seven sensations that allow you to reco-
with reference to the human organism and clarity of taste, geometry of shapes, and ne- gnise taste: sight, hearing, smell, aromas,
the nature of taste. atness of colour, according to the laws of kinesthetic sensations, texture and tempe-
Today the time is ripe for convergence bet-
ween laboratory and cuisine, technique,
creativity and grand products. In 2008 Gian-
luca Fusto Consulting was established, a
mix of courses, consultancy and the sharing
of knowledge aimed at all food sectors.
His confectionary is of a simple nature, dra-
wing on the four elements evoked through
elegant periphrasis, between glimpses of
journeys to distant lands and self-assured
citations of contemporary art. In the pipeline
this year is Laboratorio del Dolce Con-
temporaneo, a joint effort with Aimo, re-
proposing recipes of ten years ago,
lightening when necessary and fixing aro-
mas when useful. In short, Gianluca is a
contemporary alchimist of food.
Tell us about your veneration of ingre-

dients.
I love to study the raw material, and to learn
to respect it. I am particularly interested in
its expression, because this is what gives a
voice to my work. What I learn I then use to
combine, play, have fun and give emotion.
SEMPLICITÀ WAS CREATED FOR THE CHRISTMAS PERIOD AND FOR FESTIVITIES. IT IS A
SIMPLE SWEET, WITH A NEAT SHAPE AND DESIGN, IN WHICH GEOMETRY IS THE KEY ELEMENT.
THE WHITE CHOCOLATE AND COCOA BUTTER SHELL, WHICH IS SPRAYED FOR DECORATION, IS
PRESENTED VERTICALLY, EVEN IF TASTING IS HORIZONTAL. THIS IS TO UNDERLINE THE PRINCI-
PLE OF CONVIVIALITY ON CHRISTMAS DAY, BUT ESPECIALLY THE SPIRIT OF FESTIVITY AND
SURPRISE.
INSIDE THERE IS A BLEND OF AROMAS RANGING FROM WHITE CHOCOLATE AROMATIZED WITH
YUZU AND A SOUR-CHERRY GELATINE AND A CRUNCHY ALMOND BISCUIT WITH CHOCOLATE.
2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16 3
PASTRY
"My aim is to
generate emotions at
the moment of tasting,
bringing to life a magic
made of visual (design, colour)
and gustative emotions"
"THIS CAKE CAME ABOUT AFTER A TRIP TO MADAGASCAR, FULL OF PERFUMES, SENSATIONS AND EMO-
TIONS, ONE WHICH I AM PARTICULARLY FOND OF BECAUSE IT WAS THE FIRST TIME I VISITED A COCOA
PLANTATION."
MADAGASCAR IS BUILT AROUND A DESIRE TO REVISIT THE JAM TART. ON A STREUSEL OF COCOA
"The most difficult AND SALT IS A MANJARI MOUSSE COMBINED WITH A COFFEE GELATINE WITH TANARIVA MILK CHOCOLATE
AND VANILLA CARAMEL; EVERYTHING IS CLOSED BY A VERY THIN CHOCOLATE CRUST (RATHER LIKE A
CHOCOLATE SWEET) BONBON AND SPRAYED WITH COCOA BUTTER.
aspect of our work is finding THE MINIMAL SHAPE IS DICTATED BY SIMPLICITY, ELEGANCE AND THE BEAUTY OF THE AFRICAN ISLAND.
the balance and compromise What are your basic rules?
between technical rigour and To build a dish and provide emotion to the palate, rules are necessary.
Taste is something defined by perfume, aroma and flavour. Few
a desire for change" speak of sensations in the mouth (which can be creamy, crunchy, li-
quid, or semi-liquid), which result in consistency. The human body is
rature, based on levels of sugar and fat. Without forgetting rheology a complex machine. Very important are creativity, technique and re-
and the range of its possible behaviours, to then choose the role it spect for ingredients, which must be set off with specific techniques.
can play in the dish. What comes first: the ingredient or technique?
On the basis of the articulation of taste, the structures and design are I go against the flow. I start with the product and then select the te-
selected, combining textures to shapes. I always try to ensure that technique, not the other way round. I do not seek virtuosity as an end
chnique is at the service of the ingredient, conceptuality intrinsic to in itself, but as something directed at the product. Alpha and omega.
the palate. The right recipe is the one that adapts to the raw mate- The beauty of a mosaic is having tesserae of the same importance.
rial and to its possible elaborations, in terms of procedure and design. And what about selling appeal?
Are there any other aspects on an aesthetic level? This is the end result of all the work: maximum attention to detail,
Colour and shape are also of great importance: visual clarity evokes not only aesthetic, but also with regards taste. Because it is stan-
the simplicity of confectionary by means of subtraction, which remo- ding out in terms of technique and technology, a respect for ingre-
ves the superfluous in search of the essence. Without ever forgoing dients, and originality that makes the difference.
gourmandise, because dressage and visual sensations must create What are your suggestions for those who are bearing the
an uncontainable desire to plunge the spoon into the dessert. brunt of the crisis?
There is no use feeling sorry for yourself if you do not seek new
ground. Sure, there is a crisis but we have to take it head on, un-
derstand it, analyse it and make the most of what others offer. This
means reconsidering one's work because we need to put ourselves
into question in order to understand how we can express ourselves
in order to go beyond habit, convention and the crisis. We need to
take a fresh look at every detail and evaluate what products we sell
best in order to offer even better.
What more can you tell us about the crisis?
You need to have the courage and awareness to take a fresh look at
production based on sales, so that the client can also see the evolu-
tion and is tempted to change. This means putting yourself into que-
stion again and reorganising yourself, but it also means sending a
strong message to the client. There is a need to go beyond the stan-
dard and to ask questions. All too often the attitude is one of resi-
gnation without seeking to change the situation. But if something is
"WITH SEMPLICEMENTE CIOCCOLATO, AMARENA E NOCCIOLA not working, complaining will not solve the problem.
I PRESENT THE COMBINATION THAT I LOVE AND THAT HAVE MADE ME FALL IN
What do you mean by "going beyond"?
LOVE WITH THE WORLD OF CHOCOLATE: GUANAJA, HAZELNUTS AND SOUR CHER-
RIES. THE AROMATIC POWER OF A FINE SELECTED COCOA, THE FULL-BODIED I mean not stopping at standard procedures. Today everything is nor-
TASTE OF TONDE AND GENTILI HAZELNUTS, AND THE SWEET SOUR FLAVOUR OF
malised for questions of time, personnel, and costs, and so one tries
CANDIED SOUR CHERRIES: HOW DELIGHTFUL!"
to make products that are as similar to each other as possible with
WITH TIRAMISÙ A MODO MIO I WANT TO REVISIT A CLASSIC THAT NEVER
WANES, WHICH REMINDS ME OF MY CHILDHOOD AND THOSE PRECIOUS AND RARE
SUNDAY MOMENTS SPENT AT HOME WITH MY FAMILY.
THE DISH IS STILL BASED ON STRUCTURES, ON RESPECT FOR THE TASTE OF THIS
GREAT SWEET KNOWN THE WORLD OVER, BUT ALSO ON THE REDISCOVERY OF A
CLASSIC COMBINATION (ALBEIT SOMEWHAT FORGOTTEN) OF LEMON RIND AND
COFFEE.
THE END AND THE BEGINNING

IS NEW YEAR'S EVE THE LAST OR FIRST DAY OF THE YEAR? THIS IS WHY "LA
FINE E L'INIZIO" IS SQUARE: A PERFECT SHAPE, BECAUSE THERE IS A START
AND AN END, AND A CONTINUITY. THIS CAKE ORIGINATES FROM THE IDEA OF
DRIED FRUIT SERVED AT THE END OF THE YEAR FOR GOOD LUCK.
INSIDE IS HIDDEN THE POWER AND ELEGANCE OF GUANAJA CHOCOLATE, A
SOUR-CHERRY GELATINE, AN ALMOND BLANCMANGE REVISITED IN A CRUNCHY
CHOCOLATE BISCUIT MILLEFEUILLE, COMPLETE WITH SALTED BUTTER CARAMEL.
Gianluca Fusto's "art confectionery"

an enormous range. But this will not help you emerge and be cho-
sen for your uniqueness. It is like the world of architecture. You can changes every six month
immediately notice an innovator, no matter what nationality. Our mark
as pastry chefs must be immediately recognisable and we must not And what about the Italian identity?
simply stop at doing well what everybody else does. Italy is a huge country and culturally, where ingredients are concer-
What is your advice with regards product range? ned, it is second to none. But it is not a question of traditional pro-
Also here you need to have the courage to go beyond: leavened products but of traditional ingredients. My aim is to stir emotions using
ducts, cakes, small pastries, tarts, modern cakes, mono portions, the perfumes, flavours and raw materials of my country.
small chocolate, ice cream, and gelato confectionary. So there is a There is a need to work in order to find one's own style, so that peo-
need to change or modify products that sell less, with a rational ana- ple, clients, know that with me they will find something different.
lysis of production times, respecting work times to motivate workers. And how have you worked to define your style?
You have coined the term playful confectionary: what do you I have studied, listened with curiosity, researched, compared and ex-
mean? perimented for years in search of originality and evolution. I would
Especially in moments like these it is important to diversify as much like this to serve as a model, a point of reference and a source of in-
as possible, with new, playful, original and creative products. The spiration for colleagues. I already feel that this is happening abroad,
client must be able to play with and not only experience confectionary given that I am often told "We never thought an Italian pastry chef
as a dessert to be tasted. Many companies offer interesting objects could achieve so much!". But I am embittered by this comment, be-
like small plastic pipettes, cause it proves what I was saying earlier. We Italians are attached to
tubes and so on, aimed at convention and sometimes we are narrow-minded.
making the client interact Habit and routine often have the better of change because of
with the dessert itself. It is fear and convenience.
a new way to create new Habit gives security but it does not improve you. I understand that it
interest. is easier to think in terms of norms rather than creative ambitions.
Yet there is a need to encourage ambition and improvement, to leave
something tangible and to improve oneself and the work one does.
I have full respect for this trade and I would like to wake people up
and change the situation because it is individual people who make the
THE ASSOLUTO 2009 difference.
BARS REPRESENT A SWEET HE- What does Gianluca Fusto Consulting do?
MISPHERE WHICH IN EVERY
MOMENT OF THE DAY LET US Consultancy, courses and events. I am a freelance professional and
APPRECIATE CHOCOLATE, FRUIT
AND SPICES.
I continue to work with Valrhona, with Molino Quaglia, especially
"THIS YEAR'S COMBINATION IS on their Petra flour, and with Castellani of Trieste. For them I look
MILK CHOCOLATE, LEMON AND
CARDAMOM: THE FULL-BODIED
for raw materials and ingredients from around the world and they di-
TASTE OF THE MILK, THE ACI- stribute them in Italy. Moreover, I do a lot of work abroad and I am
DITY OF THE AMALFI LEMON
AND THE FRESHNESS OF putting the finishing touches to my website, which aims to be useful
GREEN CARDAMOM, I.E. WHAT I and personal. I hope it will be up and running by the end of the year.
CONSIDER TO BE THE GOLD OF
ITALY". www.gianlucafusto.com
Photos www.carlobaronifotografo.it
NEWS
INTERPRETATIONS
BETWEEN PAST AND FUTURE
A DIFFERENT APPROACH
A change of style defines Costa Group present approach. The bo-
oths fitted out at two international events such as Iba and Host
were the translations of today market’s requirements: quality, con-
sistency and transparency.
The space was divided into an old style Italian bakery and a mo-
dern lounge-coffee bar, using innovative solutions to show the pro-
ducts. On the one hand, the style of the bakery recalled the Italian
shops of the Fifties: the pastry counter in crude marble, the back-fitting composed of a
wooden expository trolley, the lab at sight, the furnace’s hood in copper, the white pot-
tery at the walls, and then… rolling pins, oven shovels, ancient balances, writings,
blackboards and old style graphics. Besides the nostalgic hue there was also the te-
chnology of furnaces and expositive counters, and through the partnership with com-
panies such as Bindi and Bakermark Italia the place was rich of colours and flavours,
thanks to a big variety of cakes, desserts, breads and focaccias. On the other hand,
the white and green lounge-cafeteria was more modern and it evoked a carefree sea
atmosphere. A very big gazebo was fitted as a winter garden, with small tables, flo-
wers, vases, colourful beach umbrellas and books, where it was possible to sit down
and taste the coffees and herb teas.
ZONAR’S, THE BEST GREEK CONFECTIONERY WONDERS

Zonar’s Café is an ancient and well known café near Syntagma Square in Athens,
Greece. The café has been recently enriched by a chocolate pastry shop designed
and furnished by Costa Group. The long counter boasts a precious enlightened frontal
made of white corian, on which the Zonar’s logo has been reproduced in a decorative
way. The counter is a triumph of delights, such as pâte sablé, chocolate semifreddos,
fruit cakes, mascarpone cream cones melted with dark chocolate, pastries, coloured
bonbons, French style macarons, chocolates...
The bright counter stands out from a Liberty style boiserie with a mirror in the centre
and the charm of the place is given by the mix of ancient and modern elements, i.e. a
table hanged up on the ceiling and impending cylindrical lamps decorated with silk and
jewels. On the right side, a framed mirror widens the feeling of depth and a plexiglass
structure hides elegantly a small preparation zone. The biscuits and the pralines are
showed like jewels and sold in elegant boxes closed with refined silky ribbons.
www.costagroup.net
CARAMEL GLAZE
Adding a final touch to the finest cakes, Fabbri 1905 gla-
zes are clear icings which create a uniform finishing
cover on cakes and semifreddos. Their brilliant colour
(which stays the same at temperatures above or below
freezing) make them the right aid for pastry chefs who
want to add a unique, imaginative touch to their crea-
tions. The glazes cut perfectly and always have a deli-
cious yet subtle flavour.
Today Fabbri 1905 adds a new product to the range:
Caramel glaze. Caramel, which is made by cooking
sugar until it melts, it is transformed into a glaze, making
even the simplest cakes irresistibly tantalising, delighting
not only customers’ palate
but their eyes, too.
www.fabbri1905.com
EASTER
The traditional chocolate eggs may seem similar

every year, but if you take a deeper look, you will
discover many new and interesting details from
the technical and artistical points of view
CHOCOLATE
EASTER EGGS
GRAZIANO GIOVANNINI from Montecatini Terme, near Pistoia, paints co-

lourful chocolate eggs using Italian traditional decoration techniques. He
draws fret patterns by hands using decorating tips and cones, then he em-
bellishes his works with tridimensional motives, such as chocolate or sugar
roses and butterflies. These eggs are inspired to fairy tales and on their tops
there are small written plates with the classical introduction to the world of
magic, “Once upon a time...”, and the names of the stories themselves: “The
Ugly Duckling” by Hans Christian Andersen; “The Town Mouse and the Coun-
try Mouse” by Aesop; “Three Little Pigs” and the title of a Russian folk tale.
Photos Bononi
EASTER
Italian breakfast is the theme developed by

ANDREA SLITTI from Monsummano Terme,
near Pistoia, for his Easter range. He tran-
sforms chocolate eggs into the copies of kit-
chen utensils and food, such as biscuits,
toasts with jam, etc., while the egg with heart
decorations is intended as a lovers’ gift.
Photos Bononi
From left, Palmira and Andrea, with Lara and Daniele Slitti.
A building in Emerald City, in the Land of Oz. Tin Man, one of Dorothy’s fellow travellers. Scarecrow, another fellow traveller.
Fantasy genre, horror fiction and exotic imagery have always been sources
of inspiration for the chocolatier ANTONIO LE ROSE. He loves to recreate
dreamlands and imaginary places and characters using chocolate, always
paying attention to practical details through his technical ability and skills.
These chocolate eggs refer to the celebrated fantasy musical movie “The
Wizard of Oz”, by Victor Fleming, 1939, illustrating the adventures of a
young girl, Dorothy, in a marvellous and dangerous magic land.
Photos Pace
Le Rose working in his lab.
Le Rose took inspiration form the visual art of native Australians for the decoration of these Easter eggs.
EASTER
STEFANO LAGHI from Faenza uses

dark, milk and white chocolate, marzipan
and food colours. The enchanted choco-
late castle consists of two halves and a
base obtained with silicone moulds. The
small towers and the other details are ap-
plied afterwards. The green cactus is ob-
tained pouring white chocolate into egg
moulds and making it crystallize.
The handmade marzipan pigs and bears
are included in the range of Valentine
characters. The couples are placed on
a decorated chocolate bed, an old style
car and a motorcycle obtained with
specific moulds.
It’s all here.
For more than sixty years, we at
Icam have been passionate about
chocolate making. And it’s right
here, in every little drop.
We accept only the finest quality
raw materials. We work in the field
with our farming partners all over
the world, carefully collaborating
to control quality cocoa harvesting,
fermenting and drying for optimum
flavor. At home in northern Italy,
we use the most advanced
technologies on the planet to
produce ultra-pure high quality
cocoa. All this makes Icam’s
chocolate a modern artisan
product suitable for use by the
most demanding professionals—
in patisseries, ice cream shops
and fine restaurants. We hope
Icam Linea Professionale quality
inspires your finest creations.
And our team is ready to help you
realize your grandest chocolate
dreams. It’s all here.
I C A M L I N E A P R O F E S S I O N A L E . Y O U R I N S P I R AT I O N , O U R PA S S I O N.
w w w.ic ampr ofe s sionale.it
NEWS
PROCESSING MACHINES QUALITY IN A NEW FORMAT

FOR CHOCOLATE
Since 1946, Icam has been a leading producer of top-of-the-

range Italian chocolate, thanks to its skills throughout every
stage of cocoa processing and an independent production
process developed over 60 years of experience. Every single
Established in 1965 by Renato Selmi, Selmi started its activity as hazel-
stage is closely monitored by experts: from the search for
nut paste processing company and only afterwards focused on choco-
cocoa plantations to the selection of the finest raw materials;
late processing, thus becoming a specialist in this field. In 1987, when
from the development of highly specialised know-how to the
Paolo Selmi joined his father in the manufacturing of tempering and co-
enhancement of cutting-edge technologies.
vering machines, a new family run company arose, which focuses now
Its technological autonomy and the checks carried out right
on the continuous improvement of the machines and their efficiency.
along the production chain enable the company to make semi-
They boasts unique features, such as the constant striving for technolo-
processed cocoa products (paste, butter and powder) for use
gical improvements combined with the structural simplicity of its machi-
in the confectionery industry and, with the Linea Professio-
nes, thus guaranteeing fewer maintenance sessions and excellent
nale brand, for operators in the pastry, gelato and restaurant
service, which includes the machines testing at the customer’s plant.
sectors. All products are versatile and can be used immedia-
Conceiving and design, manufacturing and sale, direct shipment and as-
tely, making it possible to combine the necessary processing
sistance are therefore essential steps of the production procedure and
techniques with the high standard of quality required to en-
strong points of success. For these reasons the company is currently a
hance those operators’ professional skills.
leader in the national scenario of the craftsmanlike chocolate processing
The wide range of single-origin cru, milk, dark and white cho-
machine manufacturing.
colate is available in the practical drop format, which makes it
The main features of the automatic truffle’s operating are: coating belt
easier to melt and more flexible to work with. The resealable
in two sections, chocolate dripping aided by mechanical vibration, and
packs, designed to maintain the products’ organoleptical cha-
dual veil chocolate coating hopper. The speed of the coating belt is re-
racteristics unaltered, are sold in 1 and 4 kg sizes, thus gua-
gulated by an inverter, and the automatic truffled product extraction sy-
ranteeing a flexible, modular production, in line with the
stem has adjustable vibration speed. This type of equipment allows a
specific requirements of the professional market.
single person to truffle from 25 to 30 k g/h of product.
www.icamcioccolato.it - www.icamprofessionale.it
The hourly production is 30 kg/h and power consumption 220 V Single
phase. 0.6 kW. The dimension are W 580 mm, D 940 mm with tray car-
rier (670 mm without tray carrier), H 1050 mm. www.selmi-group.it
ALWAYS AT THE TOP

Bravo Trittico® Executive still remains the top-of-the-range of the Bravo Trittico® family and
one of the best-selling machine in the pastry and gelato area. It all began in 1974 when Gene-
sio Bravo, current president of the company, had a brilliant idea. He thought it would be great
to have a single machine that was capable of pasteurising and freezing gelato at the same time.
Trittico® is now the original multi-functional machine for pastry shops and gelato laboratories
that makes it possible to pasteurise and freeze each gelato flavour in an independent and safe
way, using only one machine. This means a great time and space sparing, but also a greater
product quality. The Trittico® exclusive and advanced technology has no equals in the market,
as Trittico® was and it is still protected by many international patents pending.
With Trittico® Executive it is easy to make pastries and chocolate products, macarons, savoury
food and gelato as well. Thanks to it, it is possible to obtain semifreddos, mousses and all other
bases without risking errors or waste. An advanced software keeps the recipe safe and allows
to create lots of new ideas, easily and immediately. You need simply to select the programme
from the 39 available ones, and Trittico® will take care of the rest.
Bravo headquarters are in Montecchio Maggiore, near Vicenza, in the north-eastern part of Italy,
and it operates in more than 60 countries in the world. The company has also its direct sales of-
fices in France, Spain, Germany and Singapore. www.bravo.it - www.tritticoclub.com
at last...
o vered
di s c
...I G I C ”wa y
a new “MA to show
my
pro
du
cts
!
Ital Proget, offers a new way to show products thanks to Magic line includes gelato, confectionery, cold and hot
Magic showcase line; the innovative idea is represen- gastronomy showcases, which can be canalized.
ted above all by the original way of showing drinks. Beyond the perfect visibility of products, Magic
Choosing a drink has never been so easy as it is with showcases were designed with a practical glass top for
Magic Bar. consumption.
via Ponte di Ferro, 85

I - 06084 Bettona (PG)
tel. +39 075 9869071 - 987038
Fax +39 075 987016
www.italproget.it
info@italproget.it
PASTRY
CAPRI SWEET
Mozzarella mousse Skin of milk
milk g 500 milk a.r.
buffalo mozzarella (about 250 g) no. 1 Heat the milk in a large pan until a skin on the surface is formed. Delica-
cream g 150 tely remove this with your fingers without breaking it, place it on some
gelatine sheets no. 2 transparent film and store.
granulated sugar g 50
Chop up the mozzarella with the milk, cover and let it stand for about one
Garnish
hour. Then pass the lot through a chinois strainer. Bring the cream to
70°C and dissolve in it the sugar and gelatine, previously softened. Then vanilla oil, carbon sugar, granulated sugar, Maldon salt, lemon
add this to the infusion of mozzarella and pour the mixture in a siphon. Let basil, fennel
it stand in the refrigerator for about four hours.
Dressage
Garnish the milk skin with the mozzarella mousse, trying to give it a roun-
Candied dwarf tomatoes ded shape that looks like a small mozzarella; arrange two or three toma-
dwarf tomatoes toes with the juice from the cooking, lightly grate some mozzarella with
granulated sugar, and then add some Maldon salt crystals.
butter Place some carbon sugar in a melon-pear and, to season, make an infu-
millefiori honey sion of olive oil and vanilla. Decorate with small leaves of lemon basil and
ginger, Tahiti vanilla, fresh mint, lemon grass some fennel.
Peel the dwarf tomatoes, fry them slightly in a buttered pan, add a spo- Stefano Baiocco
onful of millefiori honey, a vanilla pod open in half and some slices of fresh Grand Hotel Villa Feltrinelli – Gargnano, Brescia
ginger. Repeatedly glaze the tomatoes and finish cooking in a 60°C oven www.villafeltrinelli.com
for about 2-3 hours. Photos Francesca Brambilla – Serena Serrani
Once removed from the oven add a julienne of fresh mint. Store.
characteristics:
the force of a great technology,
the power of a new design.
via Ponte di Ferro, 85

I - 06084 Bettona (PG)
tel. +39 075 9869071 - 987038
Fax +39 075 987016
www.italproget.it
info@italproget.it
PASTRY
SWEET
SENSATIONS OF SICILY
Tirrimulluri
An ancient sweet, typical of the town of Randazzo. After the grape har- found in bakeries, not because they are difficult to make, but because fin-
vest, people would go and pick the small bunches of grapes that had ding freshly drawn must from a vat and the right ash (i.e. clean and dry)
been left on the vines. This would then be taken home and crushed. Then, is everything but easy.
without giving the must a chance to ferment, it was boiled with the ashes
of the vine wood, called sciarmenti, which even today is burnt to ash. This cooked wine kg 1
is then passed through a sieve until you get a powder that is added to the semolina wheat flour g 500
must and boiled. After the first boiling, it is removed from the heat and al-
lowed to cool. Subsequently, it is filtered through a cloth in order to eli- 00 flour g 100
minate any ash residues. This cooked wine is ideal for making fruit pickle. toasted almonds g 150
For the tirrimulluri on the other hand, the must, after the first boiling is toasted hazelnuts g 150
then boiled again until reduced to a third of the original quantity. At this dried figs g 100
point, the must has turned into a very spicy wine caramel. This is the hal- After carrying out the boiling operations on the must mentioned above,
lmark of the tirrimulluri, which together with other local products such as heat again and sprinkle in the flours, stirring continuously so lumps do
almonds, walnuts, dried figs, hazelnuts, and wheat flour, give this sweet not form; add the coarsely chopped dried fruit and figs and mix together.
its unique flavour. It is very popular among older generations, who would Place on a table and make a stick. Cut this into 50-70 g pieces and make
prepare them as early as November in order to eat them on Christmas biscuits with a light “s” shape, rolling it out on some caster sugar to make
Eve with a hot glass of cooked wine in which they would dunk the tirri- the sweet slightly crispy on the surface. Bake at 200°C for 12 minutes.
mulluri. What a treat in those days! So we can say they were the typical
sweets of winters past. Today they are considered delicacies no longer Salvatore Caggegi
Cooked wine mostarda
must
(with relatively high sugar content) l 10
starch g 400
cinnamon stick (optional)
Boil the must to reduce it by half; take about one litre of reduced must and
cool and dissolve the starch. Pour again in the must and bring to the boil, stir-
ring continuosly. When it tickens, place in moulds and cool. Dry in the sun.
Angelo Motta
This book is a journey through time and sweet tradition in search of the most authentic Sicilian identity. The au-
thor Salvatore Farina describes the most significant stages of the island’s millenial history using sweets as living
icons, giving them voice and a new life. Glossy photographs, taken by the author himself, illustrate evocative de-
scriptions of preparations, and the invitation to taste is more than explicit and goes far beyond the pleasures of
the palate. The author encourages the reader to seek out in person the artistic and landscape attractions of Sicily
and its confectioners, faithful interpreters of tradition. But more than that, he also invites to meet those who, ori-
ginally from Sicily, expatriated for personal ambition in search of work, and who were successful in distant lands
because of their offering of Sicilian sweet specialities. Biagio Settepani – www.pasticceriabruno.com – is a
case in point, whose New York story Farina tells, illustrated by the photographer Giancarlo Bononi.
The book is published by Edizioni Lussografica, Caltanissetta, and is available in Italian and English, $ 40,00.
GELATO
BEYOND
TRADITIONAL GELATO
In the past issues of “Pasticceria Internazionale World Wide Edition” we published many different gelato recipes,
introducing also the “savoury side” and the plated dessert version. Their future potential is clear as proven in
these pages and as you can find out in www.gelatointavola.it
GAZPACHO OF RED FRUIT WITH BASIL SORBET

AND GINGER BREAD STICKS
Work the butter with the sugar. Add in the egg whites and the flour, and
lastly the ginger powder. On Silpat, make bread sticks and bake at
180°C for six minutes, valve open.
Assembly
In a hollow dish place the gazpacho; in the centre place a small ball of
sorbet, some raspberries, redcurrants and chopped strawberries.
Above the sorbet place two breadsticks and a sugar decoration.
Christian and Manuel Costardi

Da Cinzia – Albergo Ristorante Risotteria – Vercelli
www.hotel-cinzia.com
Gazpacho
strawberries g 500
raspberries g 300
redcurrant g 100
sugar g 150
glucose g 50
lemon juice g 20
Blend all the ingredients and pass through a chinoise to eliminate the
seeds of the red fruit.
Basil sorbet
water l 1
sugar g 600
glucose g 100
basil g 800
nitrogen a.r.
Bring the water with the sugar and glucose to 121°C. Having reached
that temperature, remove from the heat and add the basil; infuse for one
hour. Filter the syrup and thicken with the liquid nitrogen.
Ginger bread sticks

butter g 100
icing sugar g 100
egg whites g 100
flour g 100
freeze-dried ginger powder g 100
SMALL BRONTE PISTACHIO CAKE
WITH SAUCE AND SAFFRON PISTIL GELATO
Serves 6 Ricotta gelato
finely chopped pistachio g 100 sheep's milk ricotta g 200
00 flour g 100 fresh cream g 40
caster sugar g 80 fresh milk g 40
whole eggs no. 2 caster sugar g 90
pistachio paste g 20 spoon of acacia honey no. 1
salt a.r. saffron pistils g 0.05
bicarbonate g 3 salt a.r.
Place all ingredients in an electric mixer and mix for about 15 minutes. Place over the heat at 70°C for 15 minutes, pass through the thermo-mix
Butter and sugar some small moulds, pour in the mixture and bake at for another 5 minutes, and when cold move to the gelato machine. As-
160°C for about 15 minutes. semble the sweet by serving the cake in a soup plate, with sauce for the
base and the gelato above the hot cake.
Ricotta sauce
sheep's milk ricotta g 100 Pietro D'Agostino
fresh whole milk g 40 Ristorante La Capinera – Taormina, Catania
www.ristorantelacapinera.com
caster sugar g 20
acacia honey g 10
saffron pistils g 0.02
salt a.r.
Place the lot over the heat at 70°C for 5 minutes, blend with an immer-
sion blender and serve.
NEWS
A NEW MEMBER OF RELAIS DESSERTS

Giovanni Pina, www.giovannipina.it, the president of
Accademia Maestri Pasticceri Italiani and well known pa-
ITALIAN
stry chef based in Trescore Balneario, near Bergamo, has
become a member of Relais Desserts International. He
EXHIBITIONS
follows Iginio Massari, Luca Mannori and Luigi Biasetto,
the other Italian members of the prestigious association.
AND EVENTS
The admission ceremony took place in the French pastry
school of Yssingeaux after Pina’s entrance examination, in Well-known chefs and pastry
the presence of all members with president Frédéric Cas- chefs from all over the world will
sel. www.relais-desserts.net meet on the occasion of Identità
Golose-Congresso Italiano Cu-
cina d’Autore (Italian congress
of fine gastronomy) from 31st Ja-
nuary to 2nd February in Milan.
The leitmotif will be the Luxury of
Simplicity. Identità London, the
English version of the congress,
is scheduled next June, 7th and
8th. www.identitagolose.it
Cibus 2010, the exhibition for the
food industry and the internatio-
Giovanni Pina’s pièce, which he pre-
sented at Relais Desserts entrance
nal food market, will take place in
examination. Photos ©Laurent Fau Parma from 10th to 13th May.
www.fiereparma.it
A few days later always in May
from 22nd to 26th, Verona will
host Siab, the international exhi-
bition dedicated to technologies,
raw material and semifinished
producs for bread, pastry, pizza
and pasta. www.siabweb.com
For registered trade visitors only
THE STARTING EVENT FOR THE SECTOR 6 - 10 Feb. 2010

New Stuttgart Trade Fair Centre
“Delicious! New at the start

of the ice-cream season.”
GELATISSIMO
The special trade fair for the manufacture of hand-made ice-
cream, which takes place right at the start of the ice-cream
season, therefore providing you with the ideal platform for obtain-
ing all the necessary information. On ingredients and additives,
work and technical equipment, facilities and furnishings, or pro-
ducts and services for the production, sale and presentation of
ice-cream. Treat yourself to a visit to GELATISSIMO 2010. Make
sure you note the dates now and register online.
www.gelatissimo.de
DRINKS
FRAGRANT MIX
The aromas of the renowned almond liqueur and of the apple distillate of Normandy
express themselves in this cocktail, in which gelato and coffee come together
Malpaso
cream gelato g 30
expresso coffee cl 3
Disaronno cl 1
Calvados cl 4
In the blender prepare with a little crushed ice and serve

in a large sundae cup; decorate at will.
Roberto Bianchi
Thanks go to Rinaldo Merlone,
director of the institute 'A. Prever' of Pinerolo,
Alberto Ferrero and Alexandra Raluca Gadalean
Photo Remo Caffaro
Disaronno is the Amaretto liqueur produced in the histo-

rical establishment of Ilva Saronno and made from al-
monds infused in alcohol. Often it is homemade and its
origins date to 1500.
Calvados is made from the distillation of apple cider
(which in turn is obtained from the fermented juice of the
fruits), aged for at least two years in oak barrels. Although
it does not appear in codified international cocktails, it is
ideal for mixed drinks because it gives character to li-
queurs and fruit juices. It is also the name of the French
region of lower Normandy where it is produced.
The recipe of Malpaso and many others are included in this book, “From aperitive to desserts”
(published in Italian by Chiriotti Editori).
Cocktails are intended not only as fancy drinks, but also as matches for appetizers and confectionery
products, “drinkable” gelatos and as desserts themselves. Serving suggestions, curiosities and historical
hints complete this cocktail recipe collection.
The authors, Roberto Bianchi and Edoardo Baviello, teach at the professional institute
“A. Prever” in Pinerolo, near Torino.
The book, 112 pages, is sold at € 30,00 and can be ordered on
www.pasticceriainternazionale.it/shop or by email info@pasticceriainternazionale.it
CUISINE
A NATURAL
PLAYER
A celebration of nature and its food: Joia is a vegetarian restaurant in the centre
of Milan, awarded a Michelin star in 1996, and run by chef-patron Pietro Leemann
Many years have passed since vegetarian great responsibility. Intense spirituality, intel- food means coming as close as possible to
cooking was thought of as tasteless, unva- lectual inquisitiveness and sharp sensitivity a condition of well-being. The menus are
ried, and even boring. Considered to be se- distinguish this chef, whom many call a phi- balanced and give us natural tastes. The
cond-class cooking, a niche phenomenon losopher. very basis of taste must be natural, never
that put animal lovers against meat eaters, it Let us begin with the concept of vege- manipulated or altered by chemical pro-
freed itself of its unjustly attributed role to tarian cooking. ducts. A vegetarian dish provides more har-
take on a new lease of life. Because vege- I am vegetarian out of ethical and moral con- monious pleasure because it is in tune with
tarian today not only means eating well but viction. It is a choice dictated by an aware- nature: we are not what we eat, but it is
also healthily and carefully. Especially if Pie- ness of more healthy eating habits that gives through what we eat that we are transfor-
tro Leeman is in the kitchen, star-winning me, with my cooking, pleasure and well- med.
chef of the Joia restaurant, Milan, and spo- being. What do you mean when you say "ela-
kesman for natural haute cuisine. In other Natural haute cuisine. What does this borate cooking is linked to material,
words cooking made using greens, cereals, mean? cultural and spiritual wealth"?
fruits, fats, and dairy products, but no meat It means being close to nature, both in terms The three riches can be presented together
or fish. Quality biological and biodynamic of ingredients used and methods adopted or alone, and in my dishes I try to represent
raw materials, colours, forms, and aromas for the preparation of dishes. These are sim- them all with the aim of giving well-being to
are used to their full potential. The key pla- ple processes that do not denaturalise the the body, mind and spirit. For a dish to be
yer is nature, taken as a point of reference ingredient, rather they accompany and em- good and natural it must possess these
and a starting point in the search for health phasise it. Natural also refers to ideas in three elements and offer a key of interpre-
and well being. His dishes, fully-fledged which there is a stylisation of nature that un- tation that meets the expectations of all. We
works of art, are an ode to life and enjoy- derlines its importance. can decide to eat for pleasure or we can ex-
ment. For this Swiss cook, food brings peo- So is nature a point of reference and a perience food as a journey of awareness in
ple together and breaks down cultural starting point for your work? the knowledge that through our choices we
barriers. It is a precious gift, and cooking a We are a part of nature and eating natural can determine our mental and physical well-
being. The act of eating can turn into pure
Il fascino
della Sacher
pleasure for those seeking material sati-
(the Sacher’s sfaction, and so a good dish will suffice; it
Glamour).
can become an intellectual experience for
those who use the restaurant as a breeding
ground of emotions, or else it can be raised
to a spiritual level and offer happiness.
Some of my dishes – Perseveranza, Virtù,
Serendipity – are also a vocal expression of
a spiritual idea, which calls for closer exami-
nation.
What do you mean by that?
"Perseveranza" is my way of seeing this
value. The colour that best defines it is
green (green pasta, spinach and its stock)
with red spots (tomato petals) that give it
power, and some white spots (the almond
sauce) for candour. The dish comprises four
ravioli, each one different, made without
eggs but with wheat gluten, which has the
same characteristics, and no dairy products.
This choice of ingredients makes the recipe
light and digestible, and is perfectly suited
to the concept of well-being in the broad work, that feeling of gratification that enri-
sense of the term. ches the mind and the spirit. The act of coo-
Let's talk about how your cooking is re- king is important, as is the act of eating: expressive manner, and I start by using in-
presentative of well-being. there is a big difference between food pre- gredients I am familiar with. Later on I take
My dishes are clean, simple and represent pared with love and care and food prepared a look at what tradition has to offer. Even the
a specific group of elements that makes for the sake of it. most innovative dishes are in some way as-
choices easy. A balanced diet contains all in- What are the underlying principles of sociated to our roots. The dialogue with the
gredients. But today there are some ingre- your cooking? client only takes place thanks to the use of
dients like eggs, fat, wheat, and dairy Non violence before anything else: the food symbols which are a part of the same culture
products that are eaten frequently and in I serve is never the fruit of a violent act; were and tradition. Otherwise there is a risk of
large quantities. The result is a high number it so it would determine its character. With speaking different languages and not un-
of allergies and intolerance to certain foods. my food I seek to celebrate life and enjoy- derstanding each other.
Starting from here I have various tricks up ment: death, in the kitchen, is associated to What makes a dish excellent?
my sleeve for preparing dishes that are just the animal kingdom. Secondly, I use pro- First of all the ingredients, followed by the
as tasty yet do not contain these elements. ducts that respect nature: the selection of balance obtained from the perfect gauging
For instance, instead of thickening mayon- ingredients, which must be of the highest of flavours. It must be linked to nature and
naise with normal flour I do it using corn or quality, is carefully made. Finally my method also to our roots. When I make a dish I ob-
rice flour. Furthermore, it is easier to stay in is to preserve the ingredient, without ever serve tradition and take note.
good health if food is assimilated slowly by denaturalising it. This means maintaining as What is the role of the dessert in your
our organism. Glucids that enter our orga- much of its energy as possible, which can cooking?
nism quickly raise the level of insulin in the be achieved with rapid, simple and imme- It has an important place in my heart: I be-
blood, causing negative effects. For this rea- diate cooking processes. But also the com- came a chef thanks to a Russian Charlotte.
son, instead of sugar I use honey, brown position of the menu has to respect a It was the year 1976 and the great cook and
sugar, fructose and so on. balance between raw (rich in vitamins) and gastronome Angelo Conti Rossi, a dear
It is a great responsibility for a chef, cooked (more easily absorbed by our orga- friend of the family, invited to dinner, turned
isn't it? nism. up with a Bavarian vanilla cream crowned
Absolutely. A good cook is one who knows How is a dish created? with Savoy biscuits, obviously made by him.
how to give a moment of pleasure with his I try to represent my ideas in an artistic and I was fifteen at the time and I will never for-
CUISINE
Perseveranza
green pasta g 200 Blend the ingredients together, knead and allow to stand for half an hour.
softened haricot beans g 50 Stretch out the pasta and cut to the desired shape.
carrots g 100
Grate the orange rind and cook the sugar with the petit boulé. Soak it
blood orange no. 1½ with the juice of all the oranges and reduce it to a syrup. Cut the peeled
coppered tomatoes n. 2 carrots into thin slices and sweat them for half an hour with a little oil and
early spinach g 50 covered saucepan. Blend and flavour with the reduced orange juice.
spinach purée g 50 Cook the beans, blend them and pass them through a sieve. Flavour them
with the orange rind and chopped rosemary. Roll the pastry out to very thin
vegetable stock g 100
and prepare 4 cm diameter ravioli, filling half with the carrots and the other
rice flour g 5 with the beans.
almond milk g 50 Boil the stock and thicken with the rice flour; add the spinach purée and
nutmeg g 1 blend. Boil the almond milk with the nutmeg and thicken with corn flour.
corn flour g 2.5 Peel the tomatoes, cut them into quarters, remove the seeds and put them
to dry in a 75°C oven for 2 hours.
sugar g 2.5
Cook the ravioli for one minute in salted boiling water, then place them in
extra-virgin olive oil g 20 the spinach stock with the leaves of the early spinach; season with extra-
rosemary g 5 virgin olive oil and cook for another minute.
salt a.r.
Assembly
Green pasta Place the ravioli in the dishes with little stock and the spinach leaves. Gar-
flour g 50 nish with tomato petals and add dashes of almond sauce.
wheat gluten g 15 Pietro Leemann
Joia Restaurant – Milano
dry spinach purée g 12
www.joia.it
CUISINE
fect shape. I offer it as an egg non egg that

Contatto e Consenso maintains its shape yet becomes even
(Contact and Consent).
more important because it is not the ingre-
dient you are expecting. Every season has
its main player: pepper in summer, broccoli
in autumn, Jerusalem artichoke in winter, a
transparent gelatin with the first greens in
spring. As for egg, I hide it in a hot cube
that contains within it a soft egg yolk. Mo-
reover, in 1996 it became the motor of
Joia, marking an important moment.
Is it the basic essentials that deter-
get that evening and that dessert: the per- Which ones? mine the quality of the product or is it
fume of the fragrant biscuits, the inebriating In "Memory", which represents the journey the personality of the chef that makes
aroma of the vanilla, and the full-bodied ca- of our childhood, new flavours and sensa- the difference?
refully balanced taste. It was a sudden in- tions experienced by children emerge: The starting point and key player is the in-
spiration that marked my life. During a meal, cookies with cream of milk, gianduiotto, gredient, the cook is a good performer.
the moment of the dessert represents the condensed milk with biscuits, egg yolk Raw materials and technique: which
closure; it is the signature of the chef. Mo- mixed with sugar, and the breakfast bi- one prevails?
reover, I am extremely greedy. scuit. "At last there's rain" is the fresh You need good raw materials combined
What makes a dessert special? blend of strawberries, watermelon and rhu- with good technique.
The balance between delicacy and li- barb. The pink base, made using rhubarb What is the sweet ingredient you pre-
ghtness. juice, receives the droplets of mint that refer to work with?
Is it possible to marry the concept of present rain. Vanilla and all its derivatives.
well-being with dessert? These are unforgettable memories linked And the savoury ingredient?
There are many ingredients and many ways to unique experiences or pleasant sensa- Orange and sweet Hokkaido pumpkin in
of putting them together. You need to expe- tions given to us by nature or by the mo- Autumn, which I combine with ginger.
riment, learn to use little known or underu- ment. "Yellow pear" originated as a sort of What should never be missing in your
sed ingredients and alternate them with game of provocation: I used the kuchinaci, kitchen?
more traditional ones. Soya milk, almond a berry used in Japan to colour chestnuts, The passion of chefs.
milk, corn flour, fructose, honey, agar agar, giving the fruit an almost electric yellow co- Your dishes are artistic compositions.
Mycryo (powder cocoa butter used as a thic- lour that contrasts with the red of the ra- Would it be right to call you an archi-
kener) are just some of the ingredients I use. spberry and the green of the mint. And tect in the kitchen?
In "Two steps forward and one back", the then there is "The law of chance" in which I like to give my dishes aesthetic appeal,
cherry tart is served with a cream of quark are poured like a cascade, in front of the challenging, in a certain sense, the laws of
(fresh cheese, soft and slightly acid) mixed guests, the solid elements (coffee beans, nature, as is the case with the square eggs.
with orange rind and a vanilla pod. On the orange rind, pine kernels, apples, pineap- No matter how natural it is, cooking will al-
mascarpone obtained, decidedly lighter, a ple, kiwi, and pistachio) followed by the co- ways be a human creation. Art, then, is a
layer of pastry is applied that is then broken conut sauce and as a finishing touch the form of expression that seeks to come clo-
by the waiter at the moment of serving. The mint leaves. A journey of flavours that con- ser to the divine. Care over the presenta-
vanilla sauce and the mango gelato ball tinually change because with every spoon- tion of a dish goes hand in hand with care
complete the dessert and emphasise the ful there are different combinations. over its preparation: the marriage is capa-
contrast between the hot of the tart and the "The apparent egg and its shell" is per- ble of raising food onto the spiritual plane.
cold of the ice cream. But well-being, un- haps your most representative dish: How do you see gastronomy ten years
derstood as the union between body and why? from now?
mind, is achieved also through other factors. It is the symbol of birth, of life, it is a per- The duality that currently exists in evolutio-
nary cooking will be heightened, careful
and balanced on a level footing with cultu-
ral development on the one hand, and de-
generative and involutional food, i.e.
industrial fast-food, on the other.
What are your projects for the future?
I have open Joia Kitchen Bistrot, always in
Milano, a more informal proposal for young
people and anyone who wants to come clo-
ser to vegetarian cooking.
Monica Onnis
Photos by Francesca Brambilla and Serena Serrani
taken from the book "Joia
I nuovi confini della cucina vegetariana"
Giunti Editore www.giunti.it
We will attend:
SIGEP in Rimini
23 - 27 January 2010
Hall. B3 - Stand 120
PROSWEETS in Colonia
From 31/01 to 03/02/2010
Hall 10.1- Stand G 031
The 15° GULF FOOD - Dubai

Hotel and Equipment Exhibition
e Salone Culinario
21 - 24 February 2010
SELMI SRL
Via Statale,151 - 12069 Santa Vittoria d’Alba (CN)
Tel. +39.0172.479273/75 (r.a.) - Fax +39.0172.477814
www.selmi-group.it - info@selmi-group.it
RECIPES
RECIPES FROM
THE IFSE
MINT-SCENTED EGGPLANT FLAN

WITH FONDUE AND CASTELMAGNO MOUSSE
Serves 4 For the fondue

Castelmagno cheese g 400
For the flan cream g 200
purple eggplant g 500
mint sprigs no 4 Place the ingredients in a bain-marie and let the cheese melt comple-
salt to taste tely. At this point emulsify with a hand-blender to eliminate any possi-
ble lumps and adjust with salt if necessary. For the mousse, pour part
white pepper to taste of the fondue into a syphon and keep it warm.
shallot g 20
garlic no 1 For the wafer
extra virgin olive oil Grana Padano g 200
and white wine vinegar to taste eggplant skin g 40
eggs g 80
Grana Padano cheese g 40 Arrange the grated Grana Padano and the finely julienned eggplant
milk g 120 skin on a piece of parchment and bake in a microwave oven, set at the
honey g 10 maximum power, for about 25 seconds.
Peel the eggplants and set part of their skin aside, dice one half, blanch
in salted water with a drizzle of white wine vinegar. Let cool down and
marinate in extra virgin olive oil, chopped mint and garlic. Bake the other
half of the eggplants at 180°C for about one hour, covered with a tin
foil.
In a pan, sauté the julienned shallot in extra virgin olive oil, add the
honey and caramelize for a few seconds, add the baked eggplant, co-
arsely cut, and sauté briefly. Season with salt and pepper, then blend
with the eggs, the Grana Padano and the milk.
Add the diced and squeezed eggplants and fill single-portion and but-
tered moulds, arranged in a bain-marie in a baking dish. Bake at 160
C° for about 20 minutes.
CASTELMAGNO is a traditional semi-hard, half-fat

cheese produced with whole cows milk in Piedmont region, in
north-western Italy. The milk is obtained from cattle of the Pied-
montese breed, fed on fresh forage or hay from mixed meadows
or pasture in the area of Valle Grana, in the province of Cuneo. Ca-
stelmagno is eaten on its own or along with polenta, rice, beef
meat, vegetables, etc. It is also used in more complex recipes and
can be served with acacia honey.
RECIPES
PECORINO CHEESE GELATO

WITH PEARS GLAZED IN CHESTNUT HONEY
Serves 4 about three minutes, strain well and let cool down. Pour into a gelato
machine and work till you reach the consistency you need.
For the gelato
milk g 150 For the pears
cream g 150 pears no 4
Pecorino di Fossa cheese g 70 chestnut honey to taste
ginger roots to taste
egg yolks no 2 Cut the pears into very thin slices and warm up in a pan with honey for
a few minutes. Let cool down.
salt to taste
In a sauce-pan, warm 70 g of milk and the cream up to 60°C, incor- IFSE - Italian Food Style Education
porate the remaining half of the milk and the Pecorino, previously sof- Piobesi Torinese, Torino
tened for about an hour in the same milk with the ginger. Add the
Photos by Marco Beltramo
beaten yolks and, if necessary, season with salt. Heat up to 75°C for
PECORINO DI FOSSA is a loaf-

shaped sheep’s milk cheese produced in
central Italy, in Emilia Romagna and Marche,
in the hills surrounding Sogliano al Rubicone.
It is usually grated over pasta, or eaten with
honey, fruit and cured meats. Italian Food Style Education
Fosse are subterranean natural holes used
for cheese ripening, which are prepared bur-
IFSE (Italian Food Style Education) is an association based in Piobesi
ning straw inside them to reduce the humi-
dity, and then lined with more straw. Cheeses Torinese, near Torino, founded to spread Italian cuisine philosophy and
are wrapped in protective cloth sacks and focusing on health aspects and gastronomic tradition.
laid on wooden circles supported by reeds, Last year successful classes were attended by many Italian and foreign
that keep them a specific height from the students coming from countries such as Korea, Brasil, Usa. 2010 ca-
straw lining. For three months they enjoy lendar includes Mediterranean cuisine classes and meetings with doc-
constant temperature and humidity level, al- tors and experts, specialization lessons for professionals and also
lowing to develop a unique flavor.
meetings for primary and secondary school students.
Ifse-FoodFly is the last initiative
launched by director Raffaele
Trovato: the possibility of tasting
fine food and wines flying by he-
licopter over production areas, in-
cluding visits to producers and
restaurants.
www.ifse.it
www.ifse-world.com
www.foodfashion.it
NEWS
DULCIS IN NAPLES
The members of the Accademia Maestri Pa-
sticceri Italiani chose Naples for their last ye-
arly public meeting, www.ampiweb.it. They
met in November at The National Archaeolo-
gical Museum of Naples, where they showed From left, Gary Rulli
and offered to the public their wonderful swe- from San Francisco,
ets: everyone had to make hazelnut and che- his wife Jeannie, and
stnut cakes, and small pastry made with Biagio Settepani from
Annurca apples and Costiera Amalfitana le- New York. Both the
mons. Gino Fabbri, www.ginofabbri.com, Italo-American pastry
vice president of the association, won the chefs have been ad-
prize as the pastry chef of the year; Biagio mitted to the associa-
tion as honorary
Settepani from New York City and Gary Rulli
members.
from San Francisco are the honorary
members.
Their next technical meeting is planned from
7 to 10 March 2010, in Brescia at Cast Ali-
menti, www.castalimenti.it
Ampi vice president Gino Fabbri is awarded

the prize as Pastry Chef of the Year.
DÉCO RELIEF’S NEW WEBSITE

Following the evolution of markets and the use of new
technologies, Déco Relief updated his website to make it
more practical and easier for everyone willing to make
orders and discover new trends in chocolate and sugarcraft.
Through www.deco-relief.fr you can obtain a lot of informa-
tion about Events, New products, the Company, Advices
about chocolate and sugar, and Offers. Every month a “TOP
Affaire” appears, permitting to find better discounts.
Déco Relief has started the production of natural food
colourings and two ranges of hydrosoluble
and liposoluble food colourings are available
and included in the new 2010 catalogue.
Through its wide range of products, the company can meet
the requests ot international markets (i.e. labels in 6
languages, the respect of national regulations, etc.)
For 30 years Déco Relief has been recognized as a leading
company in Europe, Middle East and America.
The export area is more and more important thanks to its
multiculturalism (11 languages spoken) and the quality
in services, meeting requests in 24 hours.
export@deco-relief.fr - export.dpt@deco-relief.fr
VISUAL MERCHANDISING
RED AS LOVE
Red is the right colour to feast Valentine Day, appearing
as a recurring chromatic motive in these packagings
made by Chiara Rosino and Lorena Signori (lorenasi-
gnori@tiscali.it). The two artisans are specialized in the
art of glasswork and woodwork and their frameworks,
rings, mini trays, butterflies, pendants... can be easily
matched to confectionery products (such as chocolates,
bonbons, petits fours...) wrapped in white written papers,
resulting in original and elegant handmade lover gifts.
Photos Caffaro
NEWS
VALUE ADDED PASTEURIZED PRODUCTS

Liasa-Ken is Spanish company located in Guadalajara which is
specialized in manufacturing whipping creams and dairy blend
toppings for confectionery, bakery and foodservice. Liasa started
its activity in 1967 with dairy products and launched a new con-
cept: a whipping vegetable cream which was a blend of fresh
cream and vegetable oil.
In the Seventies the company’s first expansion took place, increa-
sing its markets share and introducing renewed manufacturing
processes and packaging lines, while in the Eighties the modern
concept of Ski brand was launched and the range of products
enlarged: new whipping creams and toppings were developed as
well as a line of traditional desserts.
In the Nineties, the new factory located in Guadalajara was built
and equipped with state-of-the art technology: ESL (Extended
Shelf Life), the manufacturing of pasteurized products provided
with a longer expiring date, automated production and packing
lines, purifying and waste control facilities, HACCP System (Ha-
zard Analysis Critical Control Points), test laboratories for phy-
sics, chemist and bacteriological analyses. In 2004 Ski started its
first international expansion in Europe, and in 2006 an innovative concept was launched: the shelf-life of its
dairy portfolio was once more enlarged thanks to the introduction of aseptic packaging.
Thanks to the efforts of its R&D sector, Ski has developed a wide assortment of value added pasteurized
products, joining the organoleptic and functional advantages of fresh products with a long lasting shelf life
of 120 days. Now the OGM free production range includes long lasting pasteurized whipping creams for
confectionery obtained through an ultrapasteurisation process, Ken Nata Culinaria cooking creams, Ken
Nata Azucarada sweetened creams, Ken dairy blend toppings (made with vegetable fats and cream), and
traditional semi-finished desserts.
The company also offers tailor-made products especially for industrial specific needs, based on different for-
mulations (higher or lower percentage of vegetable and animal fat, aroma, sugar content...), functional para-
meters (overrun, performance in freezing and defrosting, stand, stability, etc.). It is also possible to redesign
products when necessary, adapting them to the technology used by customers.
In 2007 the commercial branch Ken Europe was founded in Rome, strategically located as crossroads
between Eastern and Western Europe, as a logistic platform collecting goods coming from Spain, which
are distributed in whole Europe.
www.skisa.com
THE RAPID COLD IS CHANGED

This year Irinox celebrates his successful 20th anniversary. The dedication to innovation and the
capability to understand professional needs has driven the company to the 4th generation of ma-
chines, the Multifresh® range, focusing on different applications of the chilling/freezing techno-
logy to food.
The main innovation is the Dynamic mode, that chooses the best appropriate cycle for a single
product (i.e. meat, fish, vegetables, pasta,
pastry croissants, mousses, etc.). A special
program was created for each product in
order to obtain the best results for both
chilling and freezing, thinking of food and
chamber temperature, air-flow circulation,
chamber and product humidity, and the
specific working process. The main goal is
to keep freshness through a new and less
aggressive air flow ventilation, which avoids
structural damages.
Multifresh® features technological innova-
tions such as Multisensor®, a new conic-
shaped core probe with a multi-point
sensor, which helps the extraction from
food; Multirack®, a new patented trays
holder fit for numerous both gastronom and
pastry trays; Sanigen®, a new active-ions
sanification system for the sterilization of
chamber, tools and products.
www.irinox.com
40
2010 - www.pasticceriainternazionale.com - n. 16
My world has changed.
My new multifunction kitchen helper: Multi Fresh®, Irinox.
Multi Fresh®, a new way of working

which goes beyond blast chilling.
Specifically designed to meet the requirements of confectioners, Multi Fresh®
offers multiple cycles to better manage their work, ensuring higher profits
and improved organisation. Dedicated cycles by product type and controlled
thawing and proving cycles make Multi Fresh® a flexible, irreplaceable kitchen
tool! IRINOX. THE FUTURE OF CONFECTIONERY STARTS HERE. T. +39 0438 5844 - www.irinox.com

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PA S T RY B A K E RY G E L AT O C U I S I N E

EASTER CHOCOLATE EGGS

GIANLUCA FUSTO’S PROFILE

SICILIAN CONFECTIONERY TRADITION

PASTRY AND CUISINE RECIPES

TECHNOLOGY AND PRODUCT NEWS

CHIRIOTTI 10064 PINEROLO - ITALIA - Tel. +390121393127 - Fax +390121794480

Chocolate Easter eggs

Sweet Sensations Of Sicily

Recipes From The Ifse EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

News Monica Pagliardi

The rapid cold is changed

PLEASE WRITE IN CAPITALS OR TYPE

Country . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Postal Code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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WHAT GIANLUCA FUSTO DOES IS

Tell us about your veneration of ingre-

the balance and compromise What are your basic rules?

THE END AND THE BEGINNING

Gianluca Fusto's "art confectionery"

ZONAR’S, THE BEST GREEK CONFECTIONERY WONDERS

The traditional chocolate eggs may seem similar

GRAZIANO GIOVANNINI from Montecatini Terme, near Pistoia, paints co-

Italian breakfast is the theme developed by

Le Rose working in his lab.

STEFANO LAGHI from Faenza uses

Icam have been passionate about

chocolate making. And it’s right

here, in every little drop.

We accept only the finest quality

raw materials. We work in the field

with our farming partners all over

the world, carefully collaborating

to control quality cocoa harvesting,

fermenting and drying for optimum

flavor. At home in northern Italy,

we use the most advanced

technologies on the planet to

produce ultra-pure high quality

cocoa. All this makes Icam’s

chocolate a modern artisan

product suitable for use by the

most demanding professionals—

in patisseries, ice cream shops

and fine restaurants. We hope

Icam Linea Professionale quality

inspires your finest creations.

And our team is ready to help you

realize your grandest chocolate

dreams. It’s all here.

PROCESSING MACHINES QUALITY IN A NEW FORMAT

Since 1946, Icam has been a leading producer of top-of-the-

ALWAYS AT THE TOP

via Ponte di Ferro, 85

the force of a great technology,

the power of a new design.

via Ponte di Ferro, 85

GAZPACHO OF RED FRUIT WITH BASIL SORBET

Christian and Manuel Costardi

Ginger bread sticks

A NEW MEMBER OF RELAIS DESSERTS

For registered trade visitors only

THE STARTING EVENT FOR THE SECTOR 6 - 10 Feb. 2010

“Delicious! New at the start