Professional Documents
Culture Documents
IT EW
IO
N
WORLD
CHEESE
BOOK
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Juliet Harbutt
WORLD
CHEESE
BOOK
WORLD
CHEESE
BOOK
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
JULIET HARBUTT
CONTRIBUTORS
ANDROUET • MARTIN ASPINWALL • VINCENZO BOZZETTI • KEVIN JOHN BROOME
RAN BUCK • SAGI COOPER • DIANNE CURTIN • JIM DAVIES • SHEANA DAVIS
ANGELA GRAY • RIE HIJIKATA • RUMIKO HONMA • KATIE JARVIS • MONIKA LINTON
DK UK
Managing Editor Dawn Henderson
Managing Art Editor Christine Keilty
Senior Jacket Creative Nicola Powling
Producer, Pre-Production Rebecca Fallowfield
Senior Producer Jen Scothern
Art Director Peter Luff
Category Publisher Peggy Vance
2009 Edition
DK UK Project Editor Danielle Di Michiel
Senior Art Editor Elly King
Editorial Assistants Shashwati Tia Sarkar, Erin Boeck Motum
Designer William Hicks
Managing Editor Dawn Henderson
Managing Art Editor Christine Keilty
Senior Jacket Creative Nicola Powling
Senior Production Editor Jennifer Murray
Production Controller Alice Holloway
Creative Technical Support Sonia Charbonnier
Glossary 344
Low Countries 224 Index 346
Belgium 225 Contributors 351
The Netherlands 228 Acknowledgments 352
Special Features
Gouda 230
Introduction
Evidence of cheesemaking dates back to 2800 BCE, but the discovery of cheese
would have come about as a happy accident. Any milk left to warm by a fire
or stored in a sack made from the stomach of an animal would have soured,
causing the milk solids (the curds) and liquid (the whey) to coagulate and
separate—allowing humans to learn that their most precious commodity, milk,
could be preserved in the form of cheese and, eventually, that rennet, an enzyme
found in the stomach of the milk-producing animal, was the coagulant.
INTRODUCTION
valued in Europe and the Middle East for thousands of moisture content of the cheese, and this in turn
years. The numerous breeds adapt to almost any climate, affects the speed of the fermentation process.
some surviving on seemingly nothing, yielding but a few
liters of milk per day, imbued with the essence of the wild, 3 Separation of curds and whey The freshly formed
aromatic herbs, grasses, and flowers that form their diet. curd looks like white jelly, while the whey is a yellow-green
The breed of animal can also be a factor. Compared with liquid. Gently separating the curds from the whey creates
the high yield of the Friesian, for example, Guernsey or soft, high-moisture cheeses, while cutting the curds expels
Jersey cows produce less milk with larger fat globules that more whey and produces harder cheeses. The finer the curd
produce a richer, smoother, deep Monet yellow cheese, is cut, the harder and finer-grained the final cheese. The
and the sweet, mellifluous milk of the Montbéliarde cow is whey is drained off once it reaches the desired acidity.
renowned throughout the Savoie region of France.
4 Shaping and salting The curds are then piled into
The microclimate of both the milk and the cheese room molds or hoops and may be pressed before being turned 7
provide the finishing touch. Tiny, colorful, wind-borne out of their molds. Once out of the mold, the cheese is
molds and yeasts treat each new batch of protein-rich rubbed or sprinkled with salt or soaked in brine before
curd as a canvas on which to create their daily masterpiece, being placed in a cold room or cellar to age.
while milk-borne bacteria prefer the seclusion and
warmth of the interior to work their magic. These convert 5 Aging and the affineur The aging process is the
the sweet milk sugar, lactose, into lactic acid and so begin art and science of cheesemaking, as it brings out the
the fermentation process. Once an accident of nature, character of the milk and the unique flavors attributed
most have been harnessed by cheesemakers to ensure to the grazing. A good affineur, someone who ripens
that the end result is more predictable. These microflora, cheeses, can nurture the simplest cheese to yield every
along with the subtleties inherent in milk, are lost when nuance of flavor. Artisan cheeses vary from day to day,
the milk is pasteurized and must be reintroduced in the depending on the grazing, the season, the conditions in
form of a cocktail of bacteria known as a starter culture. the cheese room, and the cheesemaker; so, unlike wine,
Regrettably, these laboratory-produced cultures cannot cheese has a vintage every day, which is what makes it
emulate the complexity provided by Mother Nature. so extraordinary and wonderful.
Understanding
Cheese
FRESH CHEESES There is no universal system for identifying cheeses. Instead, HARD CHEESES
(See pp10–11) every cheese-producing country has its own system using (See pp18–19)
Denomination and
8 Designation of Origin
Some cheeses have legally protected names linked to their
provenance. Certifying the origin of a cheese recognizes its
terroir (French) or tipicità (Italian), acknowledging that the
unique character of each traditionally made food is a result of
a complex interaction of soil, plant life, and climate, combined
with traditional production methods and raw materials—
a combination that cannot be replicated elsewhere. There
are various national systems, such as the French AOC
(Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) and the Italian DOC
(Denominazione d’Origine Controllata), as well as the European In 1666, Roquefort was the first cheese to
Community–created PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) for be protected by law, the forerunner for the
traditional regional wines and food made throughout the EC. AOC system in France.
Using this Book
This book will open up a world of exciting cheeses for cheese fans. The core of the book is formed by chapters
cataloging cheeses from each country, detailing their origins, tasting notes, and how best to enjoy them, with
prominent and important cheeses explored in greater depth. The information box included with each cheese
entry, explained here, contains information that is key to understanding the identity of the cheese.
Region
Some cheeses are made all over a
country, while others are made by
various producers in specific regions.
Where three or fewer producers make
the cheese in a specific location, a city
or town is also listed. The region can Name
reveal much about the terroir of a The name of a cheese is always given
cheese, which dictates the type in the language of the cheese’s origin,
of animal found there and their followed by any designation of origin
grazing environment. status if it applies.
Age Introduction
This gives the age or range of ages in Pecorino Siciliano PDO This describes the cheese in terms of its
Classification Scale
Each cheese is categorized as one of This symbol provides an at-a-glance
the seven types described in the visual guide to the approximate or
Editor-in-Chief ’s system largest size of the cheese in relation to
(see pp10–23). an average-sized hand. Where the
symbol is missing, the sizing
Producer information was unavailable, or the
Up to three producers are listed cheese is soft and sold in tubs or pots.
for artisan cheesemakers. “Various”
indicates that the cheese is made by
more than three producers.
Fresh Cheeses
NO RIND ∙ HIGH MOISTURE CONTENT ∙ MILD ∙ FRESH ∙ LEMONY
Ready to eat within a few days, or even hours, of being made, fresh cheeses are
so young that they barely have time to develop any more than a whisper of the
milk’s potential flavor, so the taste is typically described as lactic or milky,
sweet, lemony, refreshing, citrusy, or acidic. This does not mean they are
bland. On the contrary, the skill of the true craftsman can coax the
subtle flavors from the milk; the sweet, grassy notes of cow’s milk; the
aromatic, herbaceous character of goat’s milk, with its hints of white
wine and crushed almonds; the richness of ewe’s milk that suggests
Brazil nuts, caramelized onions, and roast lamb; the leathery, earthy
HALLOUMI
undertones of buffalo’s milk.
Defining Features
Fresh cheeses are easy to recognize because
they are very white, usually shiny, and have
UNDERSTANDING CHEESE
no rind. Beyond their defining features shown FLAVOR Milky with a gentle
below, however, there is much variety among acidity that is lemony fresh
or slightly sharp, like yogurt
them, particularly in terms of texture (see
or sour cream.
Excellent Examples, opposite).
COLOR White
in color and
usually shiny.
FAT CONTENT
They have the
RIND No rind, so lowest fat content MOISTURE They have the highest
there is little difference of all the cheese moisture content of all the cheese
between the interior categories— categories, which means they
and exterior. 19–21 percent. have a very short shelf life.
How They’re Made Excellent Examples
The most common fresh cheeses,
such as fromage frais or cottage Halloumi
cheese, are made by heating the A harder, denser
milk, then adding a starter culture texture than other
of bacteria that will cause the milk fresh cheeses
to curdle. Excess whey is then because the curd has
drained off and the loose curd been “kneaded.” The
brine it is preserved
is put into cheesecloth or small
in gives it a salty
molds for a few hours before being tang. (See p262–63).
turned out and salted. A similar 1
process, shown here, is used to
Firstly, the whey, left over from making hard cheese,
produce fresh cheeses from whey,
is heated with a little vinegar to raise its acidity and
such as ricotta.
cause the protein to rise to the surface in tiny lumps.
Ricotta
A soft, moist,
fragile whey
cheese.
(See p134).
2 3
FRESH CHEESES
Once firm, the curd lumps are scooped The curds are left to drain slowly. The yield is very low,
into open-weave basket molds. only a few ounces from a gallon of whey.
11
How to enjoy COOKED Fresh cheeses are at their best
when melted or baked in classic dishes, Mozzarella
UNCOOKED The microscopic fat globules such as feta in spanakopita, ricotta in Because the fresh curd is placed in hot
trapped in fresh cheeses absorb and ravioli, or mozzarella on pizza. However, water, this cheese is very elastic and can be
concentrate the flavors of the other their high moisture content and loose stretched and formed into different shapes.
ingredients, transforming the simplest texture means they fall apart in sauces and (See pp120–21).
dishes into classics like feta in a Greek become tough when broiled too long.
salad, cream cheese with smoked salmon,
or mascarpone in tiramasu. Consequently, WITH DRINKS With their high acidity, Mascarpone
fresh cheese is used to add texture to a fresh cheeses are best with crisp white Sweet in flavor, it
recipe rather than to give it additional wines or cider. For a nonalcoholic is made by
flavor. Fresh cheeses destined for the alternative, try apple juice or elderflower heating cream
cheeseboard are often decorated, rolled, or cordial. However, when fresh cheeses are rather than milk.
dusted in ash, herbs, or spices to enhance combined with other ingredients, choose a (See p121).
their appearance and flavor. wine that complements the more
dominant flavors.
Aged Fresh Cheeses
THIN, WRINKLED RIND ∙ GRAINY TO CREAMY ∙ WHITE, GRAY, AND BLUE MOLD
As the name implies, these are fresh cheeses that have been allowed to age and
dry out in special temperature- and humidity-controlled caves or cellars, where
a multitude of molds and yeasts are encouraged to grow on the rind. The best-
known are made in the Loire in France; they are the small rounds, pyramids,
cones, bells, and logs you see in small, straw-lined, wooden boxes on rickety
tables in French markets, but are increasingly made around the world.
These creamy and aromatic cheeses are mostly goat cheeses and are often
covered in ash, herbs, or spices, or wrapped in vine or chestnut leaves over
which the molds grow. When made with cow’s or ewe’s milk the texture is
softer, the molds less aggressive, and the taste creamier and sweeter. CLOCHETTE
Defining Features
Their distinctive thin, wrinkled rinds are coated
with a myriad of molds and yeasts (the most
UNDERSTANDING CHEESE
12
4 5
Gradually, over the next few days, the cheese Within 9–12 days a layer of white Penicillium 13
develops a soft, thin, almost opaque rind that candidum develops, followed by a pale-blue mold
Ketem
gradually shrinks and becomes wrinkled. that darkens and covers the cheese.
Based on French-style
aged fresh cheeses,
Israel’s Ketem illustrates the growing
How to enjoy sliced, drizzled with olive oil and broiled
on rounds of baguette. To use any other popularity of this cheese type. (See p264).
UNCOOKED The texture and rind of the type of goat’s cheese is a travesty, since you
various aged fresh cheeses do not lend will not get the wonderful nutty, aromatic St. Tola
themselves to spreads or dips, but no flavor characteristic of these cheeses when This Irish cheese is produced in a
large log shape and
cheese board is truly complete without one broiled or baked.
has a silky,
of these attractive, rustic-looking cheeses. creamy texture.
WITH DRINKS A crisp, white Sauvignon (See p225).
COOKED Chèvre salad is ubiquitous Blanc, Viognier, or rosé is perfect,
throughout France, but is not, as so many especially if it is from the same area as
chefs think, simply a “goat cheese salad.” In the cheese. Alternatively, a light ale or
fact, it is made with an aged fresh cheese, beer brings out the nutty side of the
typically Crottin de Chavignol (see p54), cheese and the taste of the hops.
Soft White Cheeses
VELVETY WHITE RIND ∙ CREAMY INTERIOR ∙ MUSHROOMY TASTE
Camembert de Normandie and Brie de Meaux are the best-known examples
and the inspiration behind the variations produced around the world. Soft
white cheeses typically have a white crust, a slightly grainy to almost
runny texture, and a wonderful aroma of mushrooms. The mildest
cheeses hint of sweet hay and button mushrooms; the strongest
taste like creamy wild mushroom soup and finish with the peppery
bite of dandelions, and have an earthy aroma reminiscent of cool
cellars and mushrooms warmed in butter. Those made with ewe’s
milk have a subtle sweetness with just a hint of roast lamb or lanolin,
while those made with goat’s milk taste of almonds or even marzipan. CAPRICORN GOAT
Defining Features
Factory-made varieties tend to have a thick,
velvety rind that seems more like a wrapping than an
UNDERSTANDING CHEESE
Camembert de Normandie
France’s other famous soft white comes
packed in wooden boxes. Ripe examples
have pink- or brown-tinged rinds. (See p44).
Flower Marie
This is a unique ewe’s-milk cheese
from England, with a soft rind and a
refreshing lemon flavor.
4 5
The mold is naturally attracted to the After two weeks a velvety white coat has 15
moist, protein-rich surface, and gradually formed. Colorful molds may appear, but most
spreads over the entire cheese. cheesemakers encourage only the purest white.
Brillat-Savarin
How to Enjoy roasted peppers or sweet chutney, but cut
off the rind around the sides, because it
Extra cream added to the milk triples its fat
content to 75 percent and gives this cheese
UNCOOKED These wonderful cheeses will become dry and a little bitter. a wickedly rich feel. (See p42).
are at their very best when served at
room temperature with crusty bread WITH DRINKS The French serve cider or Capricorn Goat
and a glass of wine. calvados with Camembert, Chardonnay One of England’s first
with Brie de Meaux, and Champagne soft white goat
cheeses, it has
COOKED A popular recipe involves with Chaource. As a general rule, goat’s-
a stark white
baking a small soft white cheese for about or ewe’s-milk variations work very well interior typical
15 minutes and scooping out the molten with similar wines. Alternatively, try a of goat’s-milk
interior with chunks of bread or raw tawny port with a strong soft white. A cheeses.
vegetables. These cheeses also broil well; hoppy pale ale (rather than a bitter beer) (See p175).
try them on a croissant layered with works with the milder, sweeter cheeses.
Semi-Soft Cheeses
THIN AND DRY TO ORANGE AND STICKY RIND ∙ MILD TO PUNGENT ∙ RUBBERY TO RUNNY
Semi-soft cheeses vary in appearance and texture more than any other
cheese type, but can be divided into two styles. Dry rind cheeses ripen
slowly and range from springy, mild, sweet, and nutty with barely formed
rinds, to rubbery, floral, and pungent with thick leathery rinds. When
made with goat’s milk, they are mild and nutty, with a hint of marzipan.
Those with a sticky orange rind are called washed-rind cheeses and are
softer and have a pungent, savory, barnyardy, smoky, and even meaty
taste and aroma. They tend to be grainy, with a softening just under
the rind when young, and become soft and supple with age. The
washed-rind type includes those known as Trappist or monastery-style.. LANGRES
Defining Features
All semi-soft cheeses are washed in brine to
discourage unwanted molds. Dry-rind types
UNDERSTANDING CHEESE
AGE It is considered
ripe from three weeks
to three months.
MOISTURE
They retain a lot of
moisture, as they are
TEXTURE Both dry- and only lightly pressed,
washed-rind cheeses soften if at all. Washing
COLOR The interior can vary
greatly. The texture of semi-soft seals the rind and
from a pale straw color to cheeses ranges from rubbery and also locks in moisture.
creamy yellow in color. elastic to supple or even runny.
How They’re Made Excellent Examples
Semi-soft cheeses are washed in Taleggio
numerous ways, each creating a different The fine, dry rind
style of rind. Those soaked in brine for a feels gritty and
few hours or days and then left to dry out has patches of
develop a pale, barely formed to thin pink- gray and white
tinged leathery rind. Splashing or spraying molds. A stamp
the cheese creates a thin, sticky, pale of quality and
orange rind, like the Stinking Bishop authenticity marks its
rind. (See pp138–39).
example shown here, but they become
stickier and brighter with more frequent 1
washing. Those dipped in, or wiped with,
Rennet is added to the milk to coagulate it. Stinking Bishop
brine by hand are called smear-ripened. This washed-rind cheese is
Along with the starter culture, this separates the
curds from the whey. splashed or rubbed in
brine mixed with perry.
It is named after the
pear variety
used to make
the perry.
(See p198).
SEMI-SOFT CHEESES
Perforated molds let the whey drain from
the curd, although some semi-soft cheeses may 3
be lightly pressed. Once removed from its mold, it is bound with
a thin strip of wood and hand-washed with a
mix of brine and perry (or fermented pear juice).
Langres
Frequent washing and ripening in very
humid cellars creates the bright color. The
rind shrinks and wrinkles as it ages, and
can also be finely dusted with mold.
(See p63).
4 5
Any white mold that grows is knocked out The final cheese develops a thin, sticky golden
by the washing process and, after five to six rind, and the texture is so soft that it literally 17
weeks, the rind becomes very soft. oozes out when it is cut. Edam
Edam is a washed-curd cheese (see p19)
and has a sweet flavor, a rubbery texture,
How to Enjoy they are baked whole, they become
sweeter and more savory, which makes
and a very thin, barely formed rind dipped
in a protective coat of red wax. (See p230).
UNCOOKED Mild semi-soft cheeses such them an amazing appetizer.
as Edam or Havarti are classic breakfast
cheeses, while the stronger varieties are WITH DRINKS The milder cheeses need Vacherin Mont d’Or
essential on any cheese board. a Chardonnay, a light red like Merlot, or The thick rind of
beer, but more acidic wines will make the this cheese
COOKED The dry-rind cheeses are cheese taste sour. The pungent washed- protects the
moisture
superb when broiled, since their rubbery rind cheeses are superb with beers, ciders,
inside, and as
texture stretches but holds its shape— and sweeter grape varieties such as a result, the
but for the same reason they do not work Riesling or Gewürztraminer. These wines interior is
well in sauces. Washed-rind cheeses, highlight the fruity, sweet meadow-flower a runny liquid.
however, melt superbly in sauces, character that is usually hidden beneath (See p245).
although a little goes a long way. When their barnyardy aroma and taste.
Hard Cheeses
ROUGH OR POLISHED RIND ∙ CRUMBLY TO BRITTLE ∙ COMPLEX FLAVORS
The large wheels, cylinders, and drums of hard cheese found in all traditional
cheesemaking countries are typically made with cow’s, goat’s, or ewe’s milk.
Their rinds range across the spectrum from smooth with polished rinds to
rough and pockmarked like the Moon’s surface. Flavors grow complex as
they mature; very old hard cheeses such as Parmigiano-Reggiano and
Dry Jack become granular, giving the cheese a crunchy feel in the mouth.
Classic ewe’s-milk hard cheeses, such as Manchego and Pecorino, have a
dense, slightly grainy texture with an oily-yet-dry feel in the mouth, a
characteristic sweet caramelized onion flavor, and an aroma reminiscent of
roast lamb or wet wool. Hard goat’s-milk cheeses have a subtle almond taste. MANCHEGO
Defining Features
Hard cheeses can vary greatly in appearance.
Traditional hard British cheeses are clothbound
UNDERSTANDING CHEESE
RIND
This varies
enormously
AGE
FAT CONTENT from thin and
They have a Considered
leathery to very
fat content of ripe from a
MOISTURE The amount of whey hard and thick.
TEXTURE This 28–34 percent. few weeks
expelled determines the texture. Some types are
category ranges from old to
The more moisture removed, the waxed, polished,
textures that are three years.
longer the maturation and the or bound in cloth.
creamy, to flexible,
more complex the final flavors.
to brittle.
How They’re Made Excellent Examples
Hard cheeses fall into one of two categories.
Pressed uncooked cheeses are lightly
Manchego
The interior has tiny
pressed for a few hours and eaten from eyeholes and an oily
one week old when still mild and springy. sheen typical of
Cooked and pressed cheeses are heated hard ewe’s-milk
in the whey and then pressed. Different cheeses. The
temperatures give various results. Other wooden board on
methods include milling the curds between which it is drained
cutting and pressing to expel extra whey makes the ridges on the
1 base. (See pp162–63).
and create a finer texture; soaking in brine
After the coagulation process, the cheese
to achieve a thick rind; or washing the
curd is sliced using different-sized giant combs Emmentaler
curds in hot water to scald them, creating
with knife-sharp wires. The milk is heated
a supple texture.
to 129°F (54°C),
a process known
as thermizing,
resulting in sweet,
fruity flavors and
an elastic texture.
(See p242–43).
2 3
When making washed-curd cheeses such Some cheeses, such as Parmigiano-Reggiano,
as Gouda, hot water is added to the vat of curd, are placed in brine baths for up to 21 days,
HARD CHEESES
which gives the cheese a sweeter taste. where the salt draws out more of the whey.
Grana Padano
Curds cut into rice-sized pieces give this
cheese a brittle texture. It has a thick, hard
rind from soaking in brine for 21 days and
tastes sweet, like ripe pineapple. (See p119).
Cheddar
Cheddar curds are cooked at 104°F (40°C),
then milled before being pressed to create a
4 5 smooth, very creamy, texture
and a savory, raw-onion
Pressing is often carried out by hand. The To prevent moisture loss as they ripen, some tang. (See
pressure is gradually increased to avoid cheeses are sealed with wax, wrapped in cloth, pp180–181).
loosing too much whey too quickly. or sometimes rubbed with lard. 19
Defining Features
There is extraordinary variety in taste and
texture, but blues all have a spicy, slightly
UNDERSTANDING CHEESE
2
Blue cheeses are never pressed. The curd
must remain loosely packed, leaving space for
the blue mold to grow and spread. Roquefort
3 The famous ewe’s-milk blue has a loose,
BLUE CHEESES
After two or three weeks, the sides of some moist interior, allowing Penicillium
types of blue cheese are scraped smooth to cover roqueforti to grow en masse as thin streaks
and large scattered pockets. (See pp82–83).
any cracks before being rubbed with salt.
Gorgonzola
4 5 Thick, blue-green streaks and scattered
After a few weeks the young cheese is pierced To check the texture and the even spread of patches fill the interior. Its thin wet, sticky
with rods to create tunnels in the curd. Exposed the blue mold, a grader will remove a plug of rind, finely dusted with mold, typifies 21
to air, the blue mold flourishes in these gaps. cheese with a cheese “iron” and then replace it. traditional European blues. (See pp110–11).
After pressing,
the re-formed
cheese is softer
than the original.
How to Enjoy unflavored counterparts when cooked and
can add character to basics like baked
How They’re Made
UNCOOKED The choice of flavors to add potatoes or pasta—smoked cheeses work Smoked cheeses are matured over
to cheese is limited only by the imagination especially well for this. Additional ideas natural fires. Traditional flavor-added
of the cheesemaker. Flavor-added cheeses can be found under the entries for cheeses are made by adding the flavor
with dried fruit are typical served in individual cheeses. ingredients to the curd of semi-soft and
place of dessert, while only those with hard cheeses. Rind-flavored cheeses are
garlic, herbs, chives or that are smoked WITH DRINKS Beers nicely complement covered with the flavor ingredient after
work in salads. Weird combinations savory-flavored cheeses with onion, the cheese has been pressed. Re-formed
such as those with chocolate, sticky toffee chives, garlic, oak smoke, and chili cheeses are made by breaking up the
pudding, or fruitcake are curiosities best peppers, while the sweet dessert cheeses curd of a young hard cheese, blending it
left to those who enjoy experimenting with are better with cider or Chardonnay. with different flavors, then reshaping
unconventional flavors. The tannin and red berry flavor of red and pressing it.
wines tends to clash with all but the
COOKED Traditionally made semi-soft hard cheeses like cheddar with garlic Herbs & Garlic
or hard flavored cheeses behave like their or Gouda with peppercorns. Fresh herbs can
deteriorate within
a cheese’s damp
interior, so they
Nagelkaas means “nail cheese.” are mostly
This refers to the shape of the cloves used dried.
studded in its interior. Examples
include sage,
nettles, basil,
Nagelkaas rosemary, and
This traditional-style lavender. Garlic and
flavor-added cheese from
F L AV O R - A D D E D C H E E S E S
chives are also popular.
the Netherlands is based
on a Gouda recipe and uses
cloves. The orange color
comes from adding annatto
(a natural dye derived from
the seeds of Bixa orellana),
and provides an attractive
contrast to the dark cloves.
(See p231). Nuts
Nuts are not commonly
used, but walnuts are
sometimes added to
fresh cheeses because
Wonderful smoky they have a high acidity
bacon taste, and and ripen quickly.
nut-brown rind.
Spices
Idiazabal Cumin, caraway seeds, black
A great example of a natural or red peppercorns, paprika,
smoked cheese, Idiazabal was and cloves are widely used as 23
traditionally stored in the rafters they make natural partners
of shepherds’ huts in northern with the savory tang of
Spain, where the young cheeses hard cheeses.
would absorb the smoke from
the wood fires. Today, they
are cold-smoked in special
rooms over a few days.
(See p157).
Dried Fruit
Adding fruit is a
modern trend. The
most popular are
candied citrus, dried
berries, apple flakes,
figs, and apricots.
The Perfect Cheese Board ACCOMPANIMENTS
Grilled vegetables, dried fruit, apples,
There are no hard and fast rules to determining a cheese category and toasted walnuts work well with
or type, but some guidance can enable you to create an amazing and almost all cheeses.
memorable cheese board. If you’re having your cheese board with a Celery and grapes can be enjoyed with
blues and strong hard cheeses.
meal, make sure you enjoy it after the main meal but before dessert.
Crusty or fruity bread, rather than
crackers, lets you experience the texture
and feel of the cheeses in your mouth.
THE BASICS FLAVOR-ADDED
Buy the cheeses as close to the time Yarg Cornish Cheese
you want to eat them as possible—they pp200–201
will not improve in a refrigerator.
Shop somewhere that encourages QUINCE
you to taste before purchasing.
Support your local cheesemakers. SEMI-SOFT
Search for medal winners and Taleggio pp138–139
the AOC, DOC, or PDO label on
European cheeses.
Remove cheeses from the refrigerator
at least an hour before serving so that
they warm up to room temperature.
UNDERSTANDING CHEESE
THE BOARD
An elegant wooden board, chunk of
driftwood, or wicker basket lined with
linen cloth gives the cheese a fresh and
natural appearance.
Slate looks great; marble or granite is
marvelous, but is often very heavy.
Decorate the board with some wild
flowers, herbs, or seasonal leaves.
Alternatively, prepare individual
plates with small chunks and wedges
of cheese.
24
AGED FRESH
Sainte-Maure de
Touraine pp92–93
DRIED FIGS
THE CHEESES
THE WINE
One superb large cheese is better than Offer diversity by choosing cheeses with
three or four small wedges, which can be in different textures. Use the classifications on The union of cheese and wine has
danger of drying out quickly. pages 10–23 to give you an idea of the range moved writers to fill endless columns
of textures available. with riveting descriptions of
Color and shape should come from an
distinguished or disreputable
interesting combination of cheeses, not from For variety of flavor, provide at least one
marriages, but there really is no right
the garnishes. goat’s- or sheep’s-milk cheese, rather than
or wrong. Some combinations simply
Allow around 2oz (55g) of each cheese relying only on cow’s milk cheeses.
make the senses buzz while others
per person. Precut a couple of wedges to show guests definitely do not.
how it’s done. You could remove the rind
Fresh, aged fresh, and soft white
HARD from blue or hard cheeses to keep anyone
cheeses prefer dry, crisp fruity wines
Berkswell p173 from cutting across the wedge instead of into
and ciders that won’t dominate.
SOFT WHITE smaller wedges.
Semi-soft cheeses, especially washed-
Camembert de rind, need a feisty, aromatic white or
Normandie p44
eau de vie to pair with their sweetness.
Hard cheeses pair well with red wines.
The harder and darker the cheese, the
heavier, richer, and redder the wine.
Blue cheeses work superbly with sweet
dessert wines or aromatic whites. The
sweetness cuts through the sharpness
of the cheese.
BLUE
Valdeón p166
SPRIG OF
ROSEMARY
FRESH 25
Innes Button
p184
NORTHERN
FRANCE
FRANCE
ENGLISH CHANNEL
Key
★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses
Produced only here
Produced throughout the region
HAUTE-
NORMANDIE
Pont-l’Evêque ★
Cœur de Neufchâtel ★
BASSE-NORMANDIE
Brillat-Savarin,
Camembert au Calvados
Camembert de Normandie ★
Deauville,
Livarot ★,
Lucullus,
Pavé d’Auge
NORTH OF FRANCE
BRETAGNE
PAYS DE LA LOIRE
Buchette Pont d’Yeu,
Curé Nantais ,
Embruns aux Algues,
Port Salud
Brebis du Lochois,
Brossauthym
BAY OF BISCAY
N
100 miles
100 km
FRANCE
Sablé de Wissant
Crémet du Cap Blanc-Nez
Abbaye du Mont des Cats The history of cheese is entwined with the history of France.
Boulette d’Avesnes Crayeux de Roncq It crosses the path of historical figures, blends with the role of
religion, and participates in the evolution of science. During
NORD-PAS-DE-CALAIS the German occupation, Winston Churchill emphasized the
Abbaye de Troisvaux, importance of cheese in France, saying, “A country producing
Bergues, almost 360 varieties of cheese cannot die.”
Boulette de Cambrai, Today, a huge variety of cheeses represent the creativity of
Boulette de Papleux,
France, which until recently was not matched elsewhere.
Ch’ti Roux,
Dauphin,
Following President Nicolas Sarkozy’s proposal to award
Forme d’Antoine, French cuisine and gastronomy the UNESCO “heritage of
Fort de Béthune, humanity” status, the world-famous cheese house, Androuët,
Maroilles ★, argued in support of the cultural value of cheese in June
Mimolette, 2008 in the French Senate.
Pavé du Nord,
Vieux-Boulogne,
Vieux-Lille
PICARDIE
Baguette Laonnaise,
Rollot
Coulommiers,
Gratte-Paille,
Pierre-Robert
CHAMPAGNE-ARDENNE LORRAINE
ÎLE-DE-FRANCE Carré de l’Est, Carré de l’Est,
Brie de Meaux ★, Epoisses de Bourgogne ★ Munster ★
Brie de Melun ★, ALSACE
Brie de Nangis,
Fougerus, Munster ★,
Lucullus Tomme de Bargkas
Chaource ★
Saint-Florentin
Langres ★
CENTRE
Soumaintrain
Cœur de Touraine, Palet de Bourgogne
Crottin de Chavignol ★,
Feuille de Dreux, Abbaye de la Pierre-qui-Vire Abbaye de Cîteaux
Olivet, FRANCHE-COMTÉ
Pavé Blésois, BOURGOGNE Ami du Chambertin, Bleu de Gex Haut-Jura ★,
Pithiviers, Bouton-de-Culotte, Soumaintrain Comté ★,
Pouligny-Saint-Pierre ★, Brillat-Savarin, Mont d’Or ★,
Sainte-Maure de Touraine ★, Charolais ★, Morbier ★
Sancerrois Dôme de Vézelay,
Selles-sur-Cher★, Epoisses de Bourgogne ★,
Valencay ★ Mâconnais ★,
Morvan,
Racotin
Bonde de Gâtine
Tomme de
Chèvre des
Charentes
Capri Lezeen
AUVERGNE
POITOU-CHARENTES Bleu d’Auvergne ★,
Chabichou du Poitou ★, Bleu de Chèvre,
Mothais-sur-Feuille, Brique du Forez,
Sainte-Maure de Touraine ★, Cantal ★,
Taupinette Charentaise, Crémeux du Puy,
Trois Cornes de Vendée LIMOUSIN Fourme d’Ambert★,
Gaperon,
Gour Noir,
Clochette Pavin,
Saint-Nectaire ★
BAY OF BISCAY
Lavort
Ventadour
Cendré de Niort
Trappe d’Echourgnac
Fouchtra
Laguiole ★
SOUTH OF FRANCE
Saint-Christophe
AQUITAINE
Ardi-Gasna,
Ossau-Iraty ★
Lou Rocaillou,
Lou Sotch,
Pérail
Bethmale
Cabri Ariégeois
ANDORRA
FRANCE
SOUTH OF
FRANCE
RHÔNE-ALPES
Abondance ★,
Arômes au Gêne de Marc, Tomme de Chartreux
Banon ★,
Banon aux Baies Roses,
Banon à la Sarriette, Key
Beaufort ★,
Emmental de Savoie ★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses
Bleu de Chèvre,
Bleu de Termignon, Produced only here
Bleu du Vercors-Sassenage ★, Produced throughout the region
Chevrotin des Aravis, Abbaye de Tamié,
Chevrotin des Bauges ★, Signal
Comté ★,
Fourme de Montbrison ★,
Persillé des Aravis, Saint-Félicien
Persillé de Tignes,
Picodon ★,
Raclette de Savoie,
Reblochon de Savoie ★,
Rigotte de Condrieu ★,
Saint-Marcellin,
Sarments d’Amour,
Tarentais,
Tomme des Bauges ★,
Tomme de Savoie,
Tommette Brebis de Alpes,
Tommette de Chèvre des Bauges
CORSE
LIGURIAN SEA
PROVENCE-ALPES-CÔTE D’AZUR
TYRRHENIAN SEA
Mascare Mont Ventoux,
Rove Cendré,
MEDITERRANEAN SEA
MEDITERRANEAN SEA
100 miles
100 km
FRANCE
and creamy cheese with a grayish- with a subtle, yet pronounced, milky Beneath its crusty, grayish-brown rind,
yellow rind is worth seeking out. It is flavor and the rustic aroma of hay. the paste is firm yet supple and softer
relatively mild compared with other than most other ewe’s-milk Basque
washed-rind, Trappist-style cheeses. HOW TO ENJOY It is delicious washed cheeses, with a surprisingly mild scent.
down with beer or a light, fruity
HOW TO ENJOY It is delicious served with wine, such as a Loire red or a dry HOW TO ENJOY Avoid strong red wines
fruity and light red wines, such as a white Cadet. that might mask the flavor; try sweet
Beaujolais or a Bourgogne. whites, such as Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh.
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a soft, smooth, and supple cheese that leathery crust, supple, springy texture; TASTING NOTES This strong-smelling
has a distinct country taste and and a mild, sweet, milky taste. cheese has an immediate subtle taste
a strong aroma. that can be light or full-flavored,
HOW TO ENJOY This elegant, subtly depending on the season and producer.
HOW TO ENJOY As part of a cheese board, flavored cheese stands proudly on a
or mixed into mashed potatoes. Serve cheese board, served with a light and HOW TO ENJOY Pair this smooth and
with any lively, full-bodied red fruity red, white, or rosé Savoie wine, supple cheese with a local white wine,
Burgundy, such as Beaune. such as an Apremont or Mondeuse. preferably a dry one, or a Beaujolais.
TASTING NOTES Although it has a TASTING NOTES This truly original taste, TASTING NOTES The rind is washed with
pronounced taste and a rather strong tinged with fern and the smell of a local Marc de Bourgogne brandy, giving
smell, A Casinca is by no means cellar, which can be a bit strong for it an orange color and a powerful taste.
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unrefined. Aging and the gentle some palates, is definitely worth a try. The paste has a mouth-watering,
climate improve it, creating a unique The grazing is quasi-wilderness, so this creamy texture.
nutty flavor. cheese has more personality and more
natural flavor than many others. HOW TO ENJOY Ami du Chambertin is
HOW TO ENJOYFor an exotic taste, serve best appreciated with a glass of
A Casinca with a white wine, such as HOW TO ENJOY Perfect served with fig Gevrey Chambertin or a Chassagne
Condrieux, which is made from grapes jam, to offset its trademark sharpness, Montrachet—delicious wines that have
grown in sunny climates. and with a Corsican red or white wine. a long finish and are very flavorsome.
FRANCE
age, but even the youngest cheeses yeasty. As the cheese ages, its texture flavor similar to that of Maroilles.
have a sophisticated, nutty taste and evolves from creamy to hard.
a pleasant aroma. HOW TO ENJOY You can eat this semi-soft
HOW TO ENJOY This cheese is an ideal cheese alongside all very full-bodied
HOW TO ENJOY A fruity red wine is the partner to a light Beaujolais-Villages or red wines of substance and character,
perfect match for a young cheese. Pair a sweet dessert wine such as Muscat de and you could even wash it down with
sharper ones with full-bodied reds. Beaumes de Venise. a glass of beer.
Serve with jam, honey, or walnuts.
develop softening the paste TASTING NOTES The mild, nutty flavor sharp flavor; its pungency adds
and the flavor becomes more nutty with of this cheese is counterpointed by the a new dimension to this creamy,
a distinct goaty tang. sweet, distinct anise character of the slightly nutty cheese.
pink peppercorns.
HOW TO ENJOY This cheese is a real HOW TO ENJOY Serve with an aromatic
pleasure to share with friends. Serve HOW TO ENJOY This a beautiful-looking wine, such as a Gewürztraminer.
with all fruity and lively red, white, addition to the cheese board can be
and rosé Provençal wines. served with a fresh rose to decorate.
FRANCE
it a sharp, distinctive flavor against its Industrial varieties are very mild, mountain pastures.
supple and elastic texture. while fermier varieties have a more
pronounced taste. HOW TO ENJOY This is a delicious addition
HOW TO ENJOYIt can be grated, broiled, to salad dressings or hot pasta dishes,
or baked with vegetable dishes, soups, HOW TO ENJOY Pair this cheese with or served with chicory, nuts, and raw
and pasta, and it is best enjoyed when all fruity and robust wines of Fitou, mushrooms alongside a robust red or
washed down with a chilled beer. Corbières, Roussillon, and Madiran. sweet white wine.
cheeses are milder than the stronger- with erratic patches of blue. It melts in the soft interior a speckled blue
tasting, white winter cheeses. the mouth with a subtle but herbaceous appearance and a slightly bitter, savory
tang from the goat’s milk, but is milder flavor. Wipe off the covering of white
HOW TO ENJOY It is excellent in salads than cow’s and ewe’s milk blues. powdery mold before eating.
and on cheese boards, and goes well
with all lively, well-balanced red wines HOW TO ENJOY Eat with fresh figs and HOW TO ENJOY Serve as the locals do with
that have an aromatic note, such as a glass of sweet Muscat de Beaume boiled potatoes and a fruity, regional
Cornas, Lirac, and Jurançon. de Venise. red wine—a Beaujolais or Burgundy.
FRANCE
crusty, brown-gold rind is a dense, yet and brown, the paste pale yellow, dense melts in the mouth, leaving behind it a
crumbly interior with a strong, almost yet soft, marked with irregular thick rich aftertaste.
spicy, tang and earthy, refined flavor. streaks and blue patches. Delicate for a
blue, it has a slightly bitter aftertaste. HOW TO ENJOY Team it with a dry and
HOW TO ENJOYTeam this tasty blue fruity wine, such as a Sancerre Blanc,
cheese with a glass of Chignin HOW TO ENJOY Eat alongside a glass of which complements the creamy, acidic,
Bergeron or a mellow wine, such robust, lively Beaujolais-Villages or and fruity flavors.
as a Tokay. Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages.
In the 14th and 15th centuries, the shared the tasks of herding, milking,
local church and landowners of cheesemaking, and maturing.
Savoie-Beaufortain in the French Cheeses produced in the lush
Alps instigated a widespread summer pastures are known as
program to remove much of the Beaufort d’Alpage; cheeses produced
woodland to create mountain from a single herd that grazes above
pastures. These pastures—as 4,900ft (1,500m) are called Chalet
colorful and spectacular as a Monet d’Alpage, and are some of the largest
painting—are unplowed and artisan cheeses in the world. Winter
unfenced, and contain the thousands cheeses, known as Beaufort d’Hiver,
of different species of wild herbs, are paler as they are made when the
meadow flowers, and grasses that cows enjoy a more concentrated diet
provide the native Abondance and of hay cut from the mountain pasture.
Tarentaise cows with fresh grazing Beaufort is another cheese that is
in summer and aromatic hay in protected by the AOC label, and can
winter. The resulting milk is sweet, only be made in an area covering
nutty, aromatic, and complex. approximately 1,112 acres in the
It takes the milk of about 35 cows Rhône-Alpes valleys of Beaufortain,
FRANCE
FRANCE
Exterior
39
Interior
Boulette d’Avesnes Boulette de Cambrai Bouton-de-Culotte
In the past, this fermier cheese was Made by hand in Cambrai, near the Bouton-de-Culotte (“trouser button”)
made exclusively from buttermilk; Belgian border, where it has long is a small Mâconnais that is stored
nowadays, it is made with the fresh been popular, this cow’s-milk cheese during the fall for winter use. By
curds of Maroilles and mashed with is a delicious combination of fromage winter, the rind becomes dark brown
parsley, tarragon, cloves, and pepper. It frais, tarragon, parsley, chives, and and hard and this goat’s cheese can be
is shaped by hand, dyed with peppery seasoning. Unlike Boulette d’Avesnes, grated into the local fromage fort.
annatto, and dusted with paprika. Boulette de Cambrai is always
consumed fresh. TASTING NOTES It has a very distinct
TASTING NOTES The paprika from the rind goaty taste that hints of ground nuts,
gives it a hot peppery bite, while the TASTING NOTES This fresh rindless cheese feels dry in the mouth, and has a sharp,
FRANCE
semi-soft, ivory-colored paste has is mildly aromatic and has a deliciously tongue-tingling finish.
a spicy, herbaceous, and sharp flavor. herby flavor, but it will become bitter if
allowed to age for too long. HOW TO ENJOY Enjoy this cheese with all
HOW TO ENJOY Pair with all strong, very the powerful full-bodied vintages of
full-bodied red wines, such as Cahors. HOW TO ENJOY Spread on crusty bread Mâconnais and Côte Chalonnaise.
A shot of gin will also bring out its and pair with a light and fruity red
unusual combination of flavors. wine, such as Beaujolais.
FRANCE
has a slight taste of thyme and beech ashes give it a somewhat smoky it is sour yet sweet, or when fully
rosemary. Initially the cheese is smooth; and woody character. mature, when it has a very fruity flavor
after 20 days of maturing, its flavor and a strong scent of fermentation.
becomes more pronounced. HOW TO ENJOY It tastes delicious
served with figs and jam, and HOW TO ENJOY It can be enjoyed with all
HOW TO ENJOY It is best paired with a dry goes well when paired with white red wines of Burgundy, Bordeaux, and
white wine, such as Sancerre, Riesling, wines from Touraine, such as Côtes-Du-Rhône that are lively, full-
or Chinon, but is also good with a rosé. Sancerre or Montlouis. bodied, and have developed a bouquet.
Brie has a white mold rind and a soft, and a texture like thick crème fraîche; the interior is creamy and almost
creamy paste. Unlike Brie de Melun, its if eaten once it has developed its thin runny, with a nutty flavor and a long
flavor is very fruity, rather than more white coat, the paste will have softened finish in the mouth.
savory or meaty. to become luscious, creamy, and soft.
HOW TO ENJOY Team this creamy cheese
HOW TO ENJOY Pair this Brie with a glass HOW TO ENJOY It goes well with all light with light and fruity white, rosé, and
of lively, full-bodied Bourgogne, fruity wines, in particular Champagnes red wines of Auvergne, Roanne,
Bordeaux, or Côtes-du-Rhône. with some character. and Beaujolais.
FRANCE
Brocciu (also referred to as Brocciu nutty, but as it ages, it develops
Pasu) is strong and a little spicy. HOW TO ENJOY Serve with aromatic red a peppery taste.
wines, such as a well-structured Ajaccio
HOW TO ENJOY Brocciu can be used in or a full-bodied Patrimonio. HOW TO ENJOY Serve on a cheese board
many recipes, including salads, omelets, alongside crusty bread, berries, and
and cheesecakes. It is delicious served jam. The Buchette is best enjoyed with
with just salt, sugar, rosemary, or a fruity white wine, such as Lillet.
honey, and a light wine.
sharp flavor and a hint of pine that the breadcrumbs absorb the aroma of TASTING NOTES Its flavor is fruity, with
comes from the bark. alcohol and apples from the apple brandy a slight aroma of mushrooms and mold.
or Calvados. The creamy interior has a Locals prefer Camembert when the
HOW TO ENJOY This cheese is best gamey taste with hints of mushrooms. heart is white and not yet creamy.
appreciated alongside a full-bodied
and structured red wine with a HOW TO ENJOY Enjoy this cheese with HOW TO ENJOY Serve with fruity, elegant
strong berry flavor, such as a Côtes Calvados de Normandy or cider with red wines of Burgundy and Côtes-du-
du Roussillon. perhaps walnuts rather than bread. Rhône, or a traditional Normandy cider.
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a well-ripened Cantal is strong in taste, taste and only a subtle goaty flavor. flavor and a sticky orange rind that
while a young cheese has a mild, nutty gives it a smokey bacon tang. It is
and milky flavor. HOW TO ENJOY Pair Capri Lezeen with milder when covered with white mold.
a dry white wine, such as a Sancerre or
HOW TO ENJOY Pair Cantal with Viognier. It tastes delicious served HOW TO ENJOYSpread this semi-soft
a light, fruity wine, such as a Côtes alongside fresh figs or berries. cheese on bread for a delicious snack
d’Auvergne, Côtes Roannaises, or and team with light fruity wines, such
Beaujolais. as Châteauneuf-du-Pape or Gigondas.
FRANCE Auvergne FRANCE Lezay, Poitou-Charentes FRANCE Champagne, Ardennes, and Lorraine
Age Best around 3–6 months Age 2–3 weeks Age About 3 weeks
Weight and Shape 77–99lb, cylinder Weight and Shape 6oz (175g), round Weight and Shape 41⁄2–9oz (125–250g),
Size D. 14–18in (35–46cm), H. 14–16in Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 1⁄2in (1.5cm) square
(35–39cm) Milk Goat Size L. 4in (10cm), H. 11⁄2in (3.5cm) 45
Milk Cow Classification Aged fresh Milk Cow
Classification Hard Producer GAEC du Capri Lezéen Patrick Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various Cantet Producer Various
Brie de Meaux AOC A CLOSER LOOK
From Paris to Peru, Brie de Meaux is
Made just 30 miles (50km) east of Paris in the region of enjoyed the world over. Surprisingly,
Île-de-France, Brie de Meaux can trace its history back to there are only a handful of producers,
and most cheeses are then matured
Emperor Charlemagne, who, in 774 CE, extolled the virtues of and aged by special affineurs, each
Brie in his Chronicles. creating their own unique style.
they each have their own distinct
character influenced by size,
microflora, unique climate,
and grazing.
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47
TASTING NOTESThis fermier cheese has a cheese with a distinct aroma and brown as it ages. It has a creamy
a real countryside aroma and a fairly a pronounced to sharp flavor, compared texture and a milky, fruity flavor with
milky flavor. The chestnut leaf it is to other goat cheeses. a faint aroma of mushrooms, becoming
wrapped in imparts a vegetal hint. sharper and salty as it matures.
HOW TO ENJOY Delicious with the lively,
HOW TO ENJOYOpen a fruity and light fruity red wines of the Neuville-de- HOW TO ENJOY Team it with fruity white
red wine with Cendré de Niort, such as Poitou, Dissay, and Saint-Martin-la- wines of Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, Chablis,
a Chinon or an Alsace Pinot Noir. Rivière regions. and Irancy, or fruity reds and rosés.
FRANCE
velvety, and crumbly with a mushroomy
HOW TO ENJOY Serve with chestnuts TASTING NOTES This cheese has a mild, aroma. The paste is firm but slightly
and walnuts or a loaf of sourdough slightly goaty flavor. The fine-textured grainy, with a subtle milk taste and
bread. Fruity wines, such as Fleurie, paste melts slightly at the edges. salty tang.
are the most appropriate for drinking
alongside this cheese. HOW TO ENJOY It is best paired with a HOW TO ENJOY Its flavor works well with
sharp-tasting red wine, such as a good crusty breads; locals like to melt it
Mondeuse or Chignin-Bergeron. on warm bread and eat it for breakfast.
50
FRANCE
TASTING NOTESA thick, rustic rind covers cheese has quite a powerful, spicy, dried hay and goats derives from the
a smooth, supple, melting paste with and salty flavor with a long, slightly mold and from the cellar in which it
small irregular eyes. The creamy, sweet peppery finish. was ripened. It has a smooth texture
flavor has a hint of goat. and a warm, powerful flavor.
HOW TO ENJOY A dark beer or a wine
HOW TO ENJOY Pair this cheese with from Bourgogne, such as Côte de HOW TO ENJOYEat it warm with olives or
a fruity, dry white Savoie wine, such Beaune or Beaujolais, will complement nuts and serve alongside full-bodied
as Roussette. this flavorsome cheese. Burgundy wines.
including the mold, which is very aftertaste. The pale yellow paste is
savory. The overall taste is mild; a smooth and melts in the mouth. TASTING NOTES It has a subtle, nutty
little salty yet mouth-watering. flavor between sweet and acid, which
HOW TO ENJOY Delicious eaten as part of leaves a pleasing, unusual aftertaste.
HOW TO ENJOY Coeur de Touraine is a cheese board at the end of the meal,
a real delight with nut bread or raisin or for lunch. It is best served with HOW TO ENJOY The best match for this
bread and a white wine, such as lively and fruity red wines, such as a cheese is a structured red wine, such as
a Montlouis. Côtes-de-Beaune. a Médoc or Graves.
FRANCE
taste, it can be eaten at various stages. TASTING NOTES A strong-tasting cheese
HOW TO ENJOY Extremely flavorsome, When young, it is tender in texture, with a soft and slightly elastic golden
with a texture not unlike Reblochon, becoming harder, dry, crumbly, and paste, featuring a few small holes.
Crémeux du Puy makes a popular sharp as it ages.
addition to any cheese board. Serve HOW TO ENJOY It tastes delicious served
this delicious cheese with some HOW TO ENJOY Best paired with the most with crusty bread and onion relish.
fresh, crusty bread and a glass of vigorous full-bodied wines to enjoy the Accompany it with a fruity Muscadet,
Côtes-du-Rhône. flavor of both wine and cheese. such as a Melon Blanc.
Maroilles family, this is a strong, spicy, slightly milky semi-soft cheese, which spicier aftertaste.
and aromatic cheese flavored with has a sticky and supple texture.
tarragon, parsley, pepper, and cloves. HOW TO ENJOY This cheese combines well
HOW TO ENJOY Some apple marmalade with sweet flavors such as honey or fig
HOW TO ENJOYThis full-flavored cheese and a glass of fresh cider make the jam and with fruity and aromatic white
makes an interesting addition to any perfect accompaniments to this wines such as a Chablis, a Mâcon
cheese board and is best paired with tasty cheese. Blanc, or a Meursault.
a robust wine, such as Côtes du Rhône.
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a salty and powerful flavor and a is fruity but also has a sweet and a fruity, mushroomy flavor, and the
distinctive aroma of the sea. slightly nutty taste. faint smell of the chestnut leaf mingles
with a pleasant, moldy aroma.
HOW TO ENJOY It is delicious eaten with HOW TO ENJOY This popular choice for
fresh bread and onion relish. Team any cheese board can also be grated HOW TO ENJOY Excellent on a formal
it with a fruity Muscadet, such as into recipes or simply served in chunks cheese board or as a simple snack with
a Melon Blanc. as a canapé. It goes well with all light crackers or bread. Serve with a fruity,
and fruity wines. lively red wine, such as a Chinon.
Interior
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57
is given. TASTING NOTES Soft, tender, and buttery, overwhelm the flavor, thanks to the
the complex herbaceous flavors proportions being cleverly thought out;
HOW TO ENJOY Eat it with a little honey originate from the ewe’s fragrant the cheese itself is quite tender, and the
to enhance its sweetness and tone grazing. Washing endows this semi-soft overall taste is rather honeyed.
down its goaty flavor. Bergerac cheese with a lingering meaty tang.
wines are light and therefore most HOW TO ENJOY This is a full-flavored
appropriate with this cheese. Corsicans eat it with fig
HOW TO ENJOY cheese, so serve it alone, at the end of
jam accompanied by a fruity red wine. a meal, with a local red like Cap Corse.
FRANCE
taste. The semi-soft paste has a surprisingly soft and silky texture. mushroomy scent. Soft in texture, it
milky aroma The distinctive and memorable flavor melts in the mouth with a rather
has a lingering almondy aftertaste. pronounced tang.
HOW TO ENJOY Pair this cheese with
a full-bodied wine, such as a Côte de HOW TO ENJOY A full-bodied, structured HOW TO ENJOY This decorative cheese
Beaune or Beaujolais, or with a sweet red wine, such as Saint Joseph or brightens up a cheese board. Try
wine, such as Gewürztraminer. Vacqueyras, is the best match for this pairing it with a lively fruity red wine,
flavorsome cheese. such as a Côte de Beaune.
texture is creamy, bold, and rich, while stronger, and more complex than rind is an elastic paste containing
the aroma gives a hint of the cellar in Fourme d’Ambert, with a long, spicy garlic and pepper, which gives it a
which it is aged. finish. The yellow interior is streaked pronounced flavor. Since it is hung and
with blotches and broken lines of blue. cured by the fire, it has a smoky tang.
HOW TO ENJOY Serve with wines such as
Coteaux d’Auvergne, Côtes Roannaises, HOW TO ENJOYTeam it with local wines HOW TO ENJOY It is a delicious cheese for
and a full-bodied Beaujolais, or try it like Coteaux d’Auvergne or Côtes snacking. Partner with robust, full-
with a sweet Sauternes or Banyuls. Roannaises or a sweet wine. bodied wines, such as Côtes-du-Rhône.
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age: it can be very sweet or spicy, but it while the almost buttery paste has but a mild, milky flavor. As the cheese
is always full of subtle flavors and has an oily texture and sometimes ages, it becomes more delicious.
a delicate hint of goat’s milk. a mushroomy flavor.
HOW TO ENJOY It is excellent for snacks or
HOW TO ENJOY Serve Gour Noir with HOW TO ENJOY Combine it with other served on a cheese board at the end of
a slice of simple country bread. It is foods; grate on vegetable and chicken a meal. You can serve it with all fruity
complemented well by a light Loire dishes and use in sauces. It is delicious wines of Marcillac, du Fel, Costières
wine, such as a Chateaumeillant. served with strawberries. de Nîmes.
and it tastes a little spicy when young. in texture depending on the level of countryside aroma.
The texture changes with age, starting maturity. The finish has a subtle taste
out grainy and becoming very creamy, of hazelnuts. HOW TO ENJOY Its brick shape makes it
sticky, and melt-in-the-mouth. distinctive-looking on a cheese board,
HOW TO ENJOY It is excellent in a crunchy and its fresh, delicate taste is best
HOW TO ENJOY Pair it with any of the salad, so much so that it is featured in paired with a light red wine such as
full-bodied red wines of the Bourgogne several local salad-based specialties. a Chinon.
region to match its strong flavor.
FRANCE Langres, Champagne Ardenne FRANCE Puy Guillaume, Auvergne FRANCE Tarn, Midi-Pyrénées
Age 2–3 months Age 3–6 months Age 2 weeks
Weight and Shape 10oz (300g), cylinder Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g), drum Weight and Shape 5oz (140g), brick
with sunken top Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 41⁄2in (11cm) Size L. 4in (10cm), W. 2in (5cm),
62 Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 2in (5cm) Milk Ewe H. 2in (5cm)
Milk Cow Classification Hard Milk Ewe
Classification Semi-soft Producer Fromagerie de Terre-Dieu Classification Aged fresh
Producer Schertenleib Dairy and Reumillet Producer M. Teosky
Livarot AOC Lou Rocaillou Lou Sotch
One of the most ancient cheeses of Lou Rocaillou means “the craggy Lou Sotch is a small, oval ewe’s-milk
Normandie, Livarot was probably cheese” in local dialect, referring to the cheese from the Grands Causses
invented by local monks. Its nickname, Causse Méjean, a large limestone Nature Park in the Aveyron area. With
“the Colonel,” comes from the five plateau where the ewes whose milk its thin wrinkly rind dusted with white
stripes of sedge grass that encircle creates this cheese enjoy grazing. mold, it looks a little like Rocamadour,
the cheese’s washed rind and resemble a small goat’s milk cheese, but this
the stripes used on military uniforms TASTING NOTES Rocaillou has a white cheese is more flavorful.
to denote an officer’s rank. molded rind and a smooth, supple, and
fine paste that almost melts in the TASTING NOTES A smooth paste, tender
TASTING NOTES A good Livarot should mouth. Whether it is eaten young or rind, and nutty powerful taste make
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have a firm, orange-brown, slightly kept until it is more mature, it is Lou Sotch a delightful alternative for
sticky rind and a strong spicy flavor. always a very sweet cheese. all lovers of goat cheese.
HOW TO ENJOY Team a perfectly ripe HOW TO ENJOY It makes a delicious snack HOW TO ENJOY Eatwith savory chutneys
cheese with any well-knit red wine, but whether eaten on its own or spread on and serve with a chilled dry white wine
it is equally good with a cider, such as fresh bread. As part of a cheese board, as an aperitif.
one from Normandy, or a sweet it offers an interesting alternative to
late-harvest Alsace wine. sharper cheeses.
HOW TO ENJOY No
cheese board is complete
without a washed-rind cheese,
and Époisses is among the
greatest. Smear it on nut-and-
raisin bread or, if you love strong
cheese, bake and serve it with crusty
bread, or put it on sliced potatoes
64 and bake. Cooking brings out its
sweeter side, but its intense flavor
and aroma means it should be used
sparingly. The smooth velvety texture
and strong aromatic flavor demands
The milk for Époisses come from Brune, a fine red Burgundian Pinot Noir
or a rich buttery Chardonnay, but APPLYING BRANDY
French Simmental, and Montbéliarde cows.
The monks of Époisses,
a spicy aromatic Riesling or Marc taking advantage of their
FRANCE Bourgogne and Champagne
Ardenne de Bourgogne are also equally proximity to the great
Age 4–6 weeks good companions. vineyards of Burgundy,
Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), round decided to wash the cheese
Size D. 6in (16.5cm), H. 1in (3cm) in a strong local brandy or
marc, which imparts a
Milk Cow
distinct alcoholic whiff and
Classification Semi-soft
creates an intense, sticky,
Producer Various
orange rind.
SMEAR-RIPENING Every
day for 4–6 weeks, the young
cheeses are washed in a mix of
brine and a special bacteria called
Brevibacterium linens, a process
often referred to as smear-ripening.
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65
rind with a mushroomy aroma. It has Eaten fresh, it is white and creamy; a strong flavor and aroma with a sweet,
a wickedly rich, luxurious feel in the left to mature, it becomes harder and lingering aftertaste.
mouth and a nutty flavor. Forget the fat slightly salty.
content—just enjoy the taste! HOW TO ENJOY A local favorite involves
HOW TO ENJOY It is best served with the using Maroilles in a sauce for chicken
HOW TO ENJOY Eat on crackers or crusty dry and fruity whites of the Mâconnais dishes. Eat it alongside all very strong,
bread and team with a light fruity wine region, such as Beaujolais and Mâcon. vigorous red wines, such as
with bouquet, such as red Bouzy. Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
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bright orange to orange-brown, and the a delicate taste with a hint of the TASTING NOTES It has a soft and delicate
texture becomes brittle. The flavor is spruce band that binds it and helps it paste, a rather pronounced flavor, and a
mild but becomes stronger with age. to keep its shape while maturing. mild, milky aroma. The more it ages,
the sweeter and stronger the taste.
HOW TO ENJOY Eat as an appetizer. Pairs HOW TO ENJOY Scoop it out with a spoon
with all light and fruity wines, such as at the end of the meal or melt it in the HOW TO ENJOY Serve with a local Arbois
Côte de Beaune, but is commonly oven and eat it like fondue. wine or light and fruity wines like
served with beer, port, or Madeira. Beaujolais or Jura.
a faint goaty flavor. TASTING NOTES With a soft, sticky white a version available that comes flavored
rind and creamy texture, Mothais-sur- with cumin.
HOW TO ENJOY Eat it with fresh seasonal Feuille has a light, moldy aroma and a
berries. Team with a light white long-lasting, delicate aftertaste. HOW TO ENJOY Eat this like a local: serve
wine such as Mâconnais, Beaujolais, it with cumin on boiled potatoes. Pair
or Mâcon. HOW TO ENJOY Partner this melt-in-the- a young cheese with Gewürztraminer,
mouth cheese with a full-bodied red and an older one with very full-bodied
wine from Poitou. reds like Côte-Rôtie or Haut-Médoc.
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of salt and mushrooms, tinged with is pretty firm, especially after a long has a powerful and penetrating flavor
a slight scent of mold. maturation. If you have a strong palate, that is not unlike Époisses and Ami du
try the Espelette pepper variety. Chambertin, but not as strong.
HOW TO ENJOY Serve with rosé wines
from the region, such as a Pinot HOW TO ENJOY Eat in traditional fashion HOW TO ENJOY This full-flavored cheese is
Meunier from Orléanais or any fruity with itxassou, a local black cherry jam, best eaten alongside a light red wine,
red, such as a Borgueil. which counterbalances its sharpness. It such as a Savigny-les-Beaune.
is also featured in numerous local dishes.
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to brown rind, a very hard, compact in color and is tinged with the scent of Mont d’Or on which the recipe is
texture with a few small holes, and an mushrooms, and it has the flavor of based. It is a real taste sensation,
intense, mouth-tingling, tangy finish. hazelnuts. with many different mushroomy and
truffle flavors.
HOW TO ENJOY Shave or thinly slice as HOW TO ENJOY Serve it with a full-bodied
an appetizer with a beer, or use to add wine from the Bourgogne, such as a HOW TO ENJOY Serve it alongside potatoes
character and flavor to cheese sauces. Pommard or Mercurey. or eggs, with a full-bodied white, such
as Jurançon, or a red, such as Madiran.
aftertaste. The rind is barely formed, milk cheeses, probably because of its TASTING NOTES It is lactic and herbaceous
thin, soft, and wrinkled, and as it rather short aging period. With its with richer flavors in summer and fall.
matures it develops a natural mold. smooth paste and tender rind, it has a As it ripens, it becomes dry, spicy, and
soft yet distinguishable nutty taste. intense, and it breaks easily.
HOW TO ENJOY Lightly broil or bake and
accompany with a red Costières de HOW TO ENJOY Serve with rose hip jam. It HOW TO ENJOY Persillé can be enjoyed
Nîmes or a full-bodied Côtes du Rhône, pairs well with all lively wines from with all fruity and light red wines, such
such as Gigondas or Vacqueyras. southern France. as a Crépy or Saumure.
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gives the cheese a moist texture, Picodon its spicy flavor; however, the TASTING NOTES This very creamy, buttery
and the ash binding infuses it with paste is so dry that the flavor is best and slightly sour cream tang melts in
a woody aroma. The finished cheese obtained by sucking the cheese. the mouth when young. Over time, it
has a supple melting interior. becomes richer and tangy.
HOW TO ENJOY Picodon tastes delicious
HOW TO ENJOY Petit Fiancé des Pyrénées when added to salads or paired with HOW TO ENJOY It is delicious with pears,
is best paired with a fruity white wine, lively, full-bodied red and white wines or with a full-bodied Bourgogne, such
such as a Condrieux. from the Côtes-du-Rhône. as Pommard or Mercurey.
Tarine, and Montbéliarde cows that the cheese has the sweetness of stolen
graze the alpine pastures in summer fruit. As it matures, it is no longer
and dine on hay cut from those rich sweet but tastes of freshly pickled,
crunchy walnuts and a hint of
mountain flowers. Its supple, creamy
texture flows over and caresses the
palate like warm English custard.
The fermier cheese has a more intense,
complex flavor and a barnyard aroma,
but do not be deterred.
The interior captures the aroma
of the wild flowers and herbs of the
74 Haute-Savoie pastures.
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PACKAGING Reblochon is wrapped with a
little wooden disc on the base and sometimes on
top, so you need to rely on your cheesemonger
to tell you if it is ripe.
75
76
TASTING NOTES The white rind is TASTING NOTES The creamy yellow, TASTING NOTES Wedges are mild, squishy,
sprinkled with hay, and the paste smooth paste develops small holes as it velvety smooth, and taste like your
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is soft with a slight fragrance of ripens, and has a lingering, sweet taste. best-ever cheese sauce. Traditional rounds
mold and mushrooms, exuding a Older cheeses have a stronger flavor. have an elastic texture and farmyardy
tangy flavor. notes of Trappist-style cheeses.
HOW TO ENJOY Try eating this cheese
HOW TO ENJOY Team Pithiviers with the alongside a glass of stout, or with HOW TO ENJOY An integral part of a
pale red Pinots of Orléanais and the a glass of full-bodied red wine, French cheese board for over 100 years,
fruity, lively light red wines of Orléans from Bordeaux, Burgundy, or it is perfect grilled or squished on a fresh
and Touraine (Chinon and Bourgeuil). Côtes du Rhône. baguette, served with a Trappist beer.
TASTING NOTES The strong, powerful and sour to salty to sweet. It has an aroma
buttery flavor has vegetal overtones. of the straw and of the milk of the TASTING NOTES The supple, elastic
Alpine goats used to produce it. texture melts superbly and has a sweet
HOW TO ENJOY Do as the Corsicans do taste that is stronger when melted.
and match it with spicy food and a HOW TO ENJOY It is superb for a cheese
full-bodied red wine. Its pretty board or broiled. Team it with HOW TO ENJOY Slice and grill or broil with
presentation is a bonus. a fruity Chenin or Sauvignon wine potatoes, and serve with cooked meats
from the Touraine and Berry regions. and fruity red or white Savoy wines.
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slightly grainy texture and a goaty rind, a robust paste, and a honey and TASTING NOTES With a tender and creamy
flavor with a peppery, buttery tang. acacia aroma. paste, Rocamadour tastes mild and
slightly milky, but has a delicious sweet
HOW TO ENJOY Fresh raspberries and HOW TO ENJOY It goes perfectly with and nutty aftertaste.
nutty bread are good accompaniments the light and fruity wines of Côtes
to this goat cheese, along with a crisp du Lyonnais, Beaujolais, and Côtes HOW TO ENJOY Serve with figs and
white wine. du Rhône. pair with a fruity, robust red wine,
preferably of the Cahors region.
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white with a soft melt-in-the-mouth beer—yeasty and slightly sweet with a soft, sticky, wrinkled rind and creamy
sensation and a fresh lemony tang that pungent barnyardy finish. texture. It is distinctly goaty with a
is overlaid with a hint of thyme and nutty taste and a light moldy aroma.
wild herbs. HOW TO ENJOY Great on a cheese board
because of its unusual appearance, but HOW TO ENJOY It is excellent with any of
HOW TO ENJOY Excellent served with like all washed-rind cheeses, it should the crisp white wines of the Loire or a
a quince paste and washed down with be used sparingly in cooking. Serve with light red wine of the Chinon.
a glass of red Côtes du Ventoux. a light ale or a glass of Champagne.
tussock grasses and wild herbs, and pockets and the flavor is spicy,
produces around 3½–5 pints strong, and mouth-watering. Sadly,
some Roquefort is consumed too young,
when there is barely a hint of blue,
the texture is crumbly rather than
cohesive, and the bite has no backbone.
France Midi-Pyrénées
Age 3 months
Weight and Shape 51⁄2–61⁄4lb
(2.5–2.9kg), drum
Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 3–4in
(8.5–10.5cm)
Milk Ewe
Classification Hard
Producer Various
THE CAVES The numerous cracks and
fissures of the limestone caves allow the cool
air and indigenous molds to circulate. To
encourage the growth of the blue Penicillium
roqueforti molds, large loaves of locally grown
rye bread are placed in the caves and over
three months grow a fine furry gray coat,
which, when dried and powdered, is sprinkled
over the newly formed cheeses.
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83
imbued with the scent of lavender and creamy, with a delicate nutty flavor. has a strong penetrating aroma, while
the subtle flavors associated with this the supple interior has a fresh, slightly
sun-drenched land. HOW TO ENJOY Accompany it with a salty flavor and can be quite spicy.
sharp, strong-tasting red wine such as
HOW TO ENJOY It makes the perfect Saint Amour or a white Vin de Paille HOW TO ENJOY It makes a delicious
ending to a hearty lunch; serve with from Jura. addition to a fresh salad, and is best
a Provençal rosé or a sweet Muscat de served with a robust Burgundy.
Beaumes-de-Venise.
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orange-tinged rind and are soft inside. aroma of straw and mushrooms, while TASTING NOTESTangy, fruity, deep
Saint-Marcellin can be firm to creamy, the paste should have a pronounced flavors typical of only the best goat
almost liquid, with a light, subtle taste of nut, milk, and lush pastures. cheese characterize this fine example,
lemony freshness and a nutty aroma. which is firm to the touch but melts in
HOW TO ENJOY Eat on its own with crusty the mouth.
HOW TO ENJOY It is superb when baked; bread and any light fruity wines,
serve with a light and fruity Beaujolais especially Côteaux d’Auvergne and HOW TO ENJOY Accompanied by a glass of
or fruity Côtes du Rhône. Côtes Roannaises. fruity dry white wine.
86
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also changes from firm and grainy to a dense white paste that feels luscious a combination of sour, salty, and sweet.
dense and compact, with a pronounced in the mouth, and a subtle, but distinct, The locals eat the rind because they
tang and a light goaty aroma. goat flavor. believe it gives the truest taste.
HOW TO ENJOY It is excellent paired HOW TO ENJOY Its charming appearance HOW TO ENJOY Team Selles-Sur-Cher
with local dry white wines, such as and small size make it perfect for an with all dry whites and rosés of Blésois,
Sauvignon or fruity Pinot. appetizer; serve it with a crisp rosé or and light and fruity reds of Touraine,
even a sparkling wine. such as Chinon and Bourgeuil.
TASTING NOTES The very dense and moist, and orange in color, while the Although it is usually eaten fresh, it
rich paste is quite similar to that of paste is soft but grainy, becoming can be allowed to mature to take on a
Charolais, while the flavor has a hint smoother with age. It has a spicy tang more piquant flavor.
of mountain flowers. and a penetrating aroma.
HOW TO ENJOY It is superb broiled or
HOW TO ENJOY Eat this flavorsome HOW TO ENJOY Team this young cheese served on its own with bread or quince
cheese with ripe, fresh fruit, such as with full-bodied Burgundies, such as paste, and it goes well with a salad or
pears and mountain berries. Nuits and Beaune. roast vegetables.
TASTING NOTES Taupinette has a mild, TASTING NOTES The contrast of TASTING NOTES One of the tastiest of the
sometimes nutty flavor that becomes smooth, white creamy paste with Tomme de Savoie cheeses, since it is
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more robust as it ages and the mold olive oil and fresh herbs gives this made with whole milk and lightly
spreads. It has a smooth texture delicately flavored cheese a wonderfully pressed to give it a supple texture with
when young. aromatic quality. tiny holes. The rind becomes thick,
wrinkled, and gray with age
HOW TO ENJOY Serve this attractive HOW TO ENJOY For full effect, serve it
cheese with a red wine such as Pinot alone, spread on bread, or lightly HOW TO ENJOY Combine it with hazelnuts
Noir or Saint Joseph. melted. Excellent with a light rosé and prunes, or add to omelets, soups, or
de Provence wine. a salad with fennel and endive.
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a sea breeze tang that is derived from mild and milky to nutty with a savory
TASTING NOTES It varies from mild and the Atlantic Ocean surrounding the tang. It has an herbaceous or farmyard
milky to nutty with a rich savory tang island. The rind is hard and compact. aroma. A label showing four red hearts
and a pleasant barnyard aroma. is a guarantee of quality.
HOW TO ENJOY Serve lightly grilled on
HOW TO ENJOY Try with fresh fruit and crusty bread with apples, walnuts, or HOW TO ENJOY Excellent baked or broiled.
a light, fruity Savoie wine or richer with a mellow white wine, such as Try with light, fruity Savoie wines or a
regional wines, such as Mondeuse. a Muscat. lively Mondeuse or Les Abymes.
The surface is
encased with a dusty
blue-gray mold.
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THE ASH The logs are
sprinkled with a mix of salt and
wood ash. Initially, only the ash
covers the bright, white, moist
young curd. It must be at least
10 days old when sold, to comply
with the AOC rules.
93
TASTING NOTES This cheese has a mix TASTING NOTES The slightly moist, soft has a smokier taste and a simple,
of delicate aromas and herbaceous and sticky paste fills the mouth with balanced flavor.
flavors, evocative of Alpine meadows. mountain flavors. It has subtle and
structured aromas. HOW TO ENJOY It becomes runny and
HOW TO ENJOY Gooseberry jam makes slightly stringy when cooked, but
a tasty accompaniment. Serve with HOW TO ENJOY Team this goat cheese is especially good for stuffing into
a fruity and full-bodied red wine, such with a fruity, full-bodied white wine homemade ravioli. Serve with cider
as Chinon or Menetou Salon. of Condrieux. or a red or rosé from Cahors.
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like with a delicate lemony freshness aromatic flavor reflects the Corsican
TASTING NOTES The paste is bold and rich and a hint of herbs on the finish. landscape and the wild herbs and
with a bittersweet flavor. It is best grasses on which the sheep graze.
eaten fresh, but can be cured for one or HOW TO ENJOY For pure luxury, try it
two weeks. stirred into pasta with a fine shaving of HOW TO ENJOY U Bel Fiuritu can be
fresh truffles. Serve with a light white enjoyed with full-bodied, structured
HOW TO ENJOY Try with dry white Loire wine, such as Coteaux Varois, or with red wines, such as a Muscat du Cap
wines such as Sancerre or Chinon. a light fruity red, such as Beaujolais. Corse or a 12-year-old Frontignan.
a lingering meaty tang and pungent cheese is covered in salted charcoal sticky orange rind, the paste is dense
farmyard aroma. ashes. It has a soft, moist paste and yet soft and sticky with a full-bodied
a mild and slightly nutty flavor. and very spicy taste.
HOW TO ENJOY Corsicans often eat this
cheese with fig jam; a fruity red wine HOW TO ENJOY Valençay is delicious HOW TO ENJOY Spread sparingly on bread
makes the perfect accompaniment. paired with all fruity and lively white with herbs, garlic, or olive oil for an
wines of the Berry and Touraine excellent snack. Sharp and tasty, it is
regions of France, especially Sancerre. best with big reds like Gigondas.
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TASTING NOTES The taste of this goat is not sharp; instead, it has a rich and thin, barely formed, slightly sticky pale
cheese changes according to its age: it mellow flavor. orange-colored rind and supple, dense,
can be very sweet or spicy but is always and slightly dry texture.
full of subtle flavors, with a delicate HOW TO ENJOY It is too strong for most
hint of goat. dishes and is best enjoyed with crusty HOW TO ENJOY Serve it with juniper
bread and a variety of drinks—from berries and a variety of drinks, such as
HOW TO ENJOY Eat with a white Loire a good-quality beer to Champagne or beer, black coffee, or even light wines—
wine, such as Sancerre. full-bodied red wines. the taste is not as pungent as the scent.
FRANCE Nord-Pas-de-Calais FRANCE Aquitaine and Midi-Pyrénées FRANCE Wiere Effroy, Nord-Pas-de-Calais
Age 2–3 months Age 6 weeks Age 3 weeks
Weight and Shape 7oz (200g) Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g), round Weight and Shape 1lb (450g), dome
Size D. 3in (7.5cm) , H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size Various
Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow
Classification Flavor-added Classification Semi-soft Classification Soft white
Producer Various Producer Various Producer Saint Godeleine Farm (M. Bernard)
Fort de Béthune Mascare Mont Ventoux
Cheeses of the Nord-Pas-de-Calais are This goat’s-milk cheese originates in This goat cheese is unique for its
known for their strong flavors—and the provençal Alps, in Banon. It has very unusual shape. It is molded into
one of the strongest of them all is Fort a thin, natural rind that is wrapped a cone shape to represent Mont
de Béthune. This cow’s-milk cheese was in a decorative chestnut leaf. It is a Ventoux, the famous mountain that
once a favorite of the mining community, seasonal cheese and is only made by dominates the skyline in the Luberon
who would team it with local beer. one producer, so it is rarely found area. The top half of the cheese is white,
It is made by soaking the pungent outside its local area. representing the limestone part of the
local Maroilles cheese in brine for mountain, and the lower half is black
three months. TASTING NOTES Beneath its soft, creamy (with ash), representing the forest.
rind, Mascare has a mild lactic to nutty
TASTING NOTES The fermentation process flavor and a soft, almost runny paste TASTING NOTESThis is a tender and
used for this cheese gives it a very around the edge as it ripens. smooth cheese with real farmland
creamy, silky texture, but with an flavors and aromas.
almost eye-wateringly strong flavor. HOW TO ENJOY At its best when served
simply with fresh crusty bread from HOW TO ENJOY Add this distinctive
HOW TO ENJOY Eat this spread on bread the local market along with a fruity, cheese to your cheese board and serve
alongside a glass of a full-bodied red lively red, white, or rosé wine, alongside a local full-bodied red wine
wine, such as a Faugères from preferably from the Mont Ventoux of Vaucluse, such as a Gigondas or
Languedoc, or an eau de vie. or Durance area. Mont Ventoux.
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Nîmois Persillé des Aravis Tomme de Bargkas
An interesting addition to a cheese The name comes from the irregular Tomme de Bargkas comes from the
board, this newly developed goat cheese dark green veining that looks like Vosges mountains in Lorraine;
is washed with the local red wine of parsley, or persille in French. This Barg means mountain and kass
Costières de Nîmes as part of the goat’s-milk cheese is produced in the means cheese in the local dialect.
production process, giving the rind a Aravis Valley in Haute-Savoie. Two It is here that farmers also produce
distinctive dark red color. similar cheeses are made in nearby Munster cheese.
valleys: Persillé des Grand-Bornand
TASTING NOTES Nîmois has a pronounced and Persillé des Thônes. TASTING NOTES The paste is soft,
and powerful flavor. Because of this, elastic and has a few holes. It gives off
it should be eaten on its own, without TASTING NOTES It has a very savory a light, soft aroma and has a flavor 99
any accompaniments. and sharp, spicy flavor with a strong of hazelnut with a slightly acidic
aftertaste. It has a texture similar to aftertaste.
HOW TO ENJOY Best enjoyed on its own aged cheddar and is best when made in
with a red wine of Costières de Nîmes summer and fall. HOW TO ENJOYLocals often eat this
or Pic St. Loup. cheese with black sourdough bread.
HOW TO ENJOY Good with all full-bodied Team it with a Bourgogne, such as
red wines, such as Mondeuse, Pommard, or a Rhône wine, such as
Beaujolais-Villages, and Chinon. Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Squacquerone di Romagna
Cheese has been an integral part of the Caccio Faenum
Italian lifestyle since before the time of
the Romans, who were responsible for TOSCANA
introducing hard cheese making to many Pecorino Romano★,
European countries. The depth and Pecorino Toscano★, SAN MARINO
breadth of the varieties (cow, goat, sheep, Pecorino di Pienza
and buffalo) is unrivaled in any other
country except France. Casciotta d’Urbino★
Many of the cheeses are still made
with rare, indigenous breeds and in
Alpine pastures, and are protected by ISOLA
the European Union PDO program. D’ELBA UMBRIA
Some of the oldest and most precious Caciotta
artisan cheeses come under the umbrella MARCHE
of a Slow Food Presidium. Marzolino
ITALY Formaggio di Fossa di Sogliano★
PRODUCED
THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY
Caciocavallo, N
Caciotta,
Caprino Fresco,
VATICAN Caprino Stagionato, ADRIATIC SEA
CITY Mascarpone,
Provolone
ABRUZZO
LAZIO
SARDEGNA Caciocavallo Podolico,
Calcagno, Mozzarella di Bufala★,
Fiore Sardo★, Ricotta di Bufala Campana★,
Pecorino Sardo★, Ricotta Romana★
Toscanello
MOLISE
Caciocavallo Silano★
Canestrato Pugliese★
TYRRHENIAN SEA
Pecorino Laticauda
PUGLIA
Burrata
CAMPANIA Caciocavallo Silano★,
Cacioricotta,
Caciocavallo Podolico, Canestrato di Vacca or di Pecora,
Caciocavallo Silano★, Stracciata,
Caciocavallo Occhiato, Pecorino Dauno
Key Mozzarella di Bufala★,
★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses Provolone del Monaco★,
Produced only here Scamorza
Produced throughout the region BASILICATA
Caciocavallo Silano★,
Cacioricotta,
Canestrato di Moliterno★,
Pecorino di Filiano★
CALABRIA
Caciocavallo Podolico,
Caciocavallo Silano★,
Pecorino or Canastrato Crotonese
SICILIA
Calcagno,
Canestrato di Vacca and di Pecora,
Pecorino Siciliano★,
Piacentinu Ennese★,
Primo Sale,
Ragusano★,
Vastedda della Valle del Belice★
MEDITERRANEAN SEA
50 miles
50 km
ITALY
TASTING NOTES
than sharp high notes, it has a floral fairly salty, and slightly piquant. saffron, then of floral pastures and hay.
aroma reminiscent of Alpine meadows. Asiago d’Allevo is drier, crumbly to the Early fresh green notes combine with a
bite, and has a savory, spiced flavor. slight almond taste and a tangy finish.
HOW TO ENJOY It grates and melts well.
Wrap in thin slices of sautéed eggplant HOW TO ENJOY Perfect with a Cabernet HOW TO ENJOY Use as a table cheese,
and serve with olive bread and a white Sauvignon, from Friuli’s Colli Orientali, or grate over pasta. Try with a robust
Schiava Grigia. or Torcolato Maculan. red wine like Amarone.
I T A LY
softening the peppery bite of the blue. and a full flavor with notes of wild irregular, medium eyes, it has a strong,
herbs, which intensifies as it matures. buttery, herby aroma and tastes sweet
HOW TO ENJOY Enjoy with a glass of yet salty with an earthy finish.
Passito di Pantelleria or late-harvest HOW TO ENJOY Eat with semolina or
Riesling and fresh figs to absorb the potato gnocchi, along with a Cabernet HOW TO ENJOY Used traditionally as
lush flavors. Franc or a sparkling Chardonnay. a table cheese; it is good with polenta
and as a filling for agnolotti pasta.
104
CANESTRATO MOLITERNO
The curd is pressed by hand into rush
baskets, then removed and rubbed with
olive oil and sometimes vinegar to create
this waxy, smooth rind with a dusting of
brown and white molds. (See p110)
Bitto PDO Bra PDO Branzi
Named after the fast-flowing Bitto Named after the town of Bra, famous Originating in the village of the same
River, this cheese is made in the for the cheese festival held by the Slow name, Branzi cheese uses the milk of
summer months in mountain dairies or Food organization, generic Bra is made brown mountain cattle. In the past it
calecc—unroofed stone refuges that are from cow’s milk from lowland dairies was made only in Alpine huts in the
covered with canvas when in use. This and can contain small amounts of ewe’s summer, but now it is produced all
is where the maturation process begins, or goat’s milk. Bra Tenero is a semi-soft year. A variety of formai de mut, it has
but it is completed in the valley cheese cheese aged for 45–60 days; Bra Duro a pale yellow paste laced with holes
stores and can last for ten years. is ripened for at least 180 days. and encased in a yellow-brown crust.
TASTING NOTES When young, this TASTING NOTES Bra Tenero is soft, mild, TASTING NOTES When young, the sweet
cheese has a mild, fragrant flavor that and aromatic, while Bra Duro has and milky flavor has a slight aroma of
I T A LY
develops into unmistakably nutty notes a delicious tang that can almost sting grass. When aged, it can be grated and
and caramel hints after at least six the tongue with its intensity. tastes stronger, tangy, and nutty.
months of maturation.
HOW TO ENJOY Eat Bra Tenero as HOW TO ENJOY Used in polenta taragna
HOW TO ENJOY Use in local dishes such a main dish, or use Bra Duro grated (polenta with cheese and butter), and
as pizzoccheri, a flat pasta, and over pasta. Serve with red Bricco with gnocchi made from chestnut flour.
sciatt, small buckwheat fritters. dell’Uccellone or white Gavi dei Gavi. Serve with Valcalepio Rosso.
aroma and tastes mild and sweet, with the nutty sweetness of the cheese with pungent with oily and gamey flavors.
the consistency of very soft mozzarella. the aroma and taste of the wildflowers
and grasses of the Alpine meadows. HOW TO ENJOY Serve with rustic bread
HOW TO ENJOY Toss with avocado, and a sparkling white wine.
tomatoes, and olive oil, or eat with a HOW TO ENJOY Grate over your favorite
salty cured ham. Serve with Primitivo pasta dish or serve with pears, green
di Manduria or Moscato di Trani. figs, and a Pinot Grigio or Ribolla.
I T A LY
hints are also present. and spicy hints. milky and buttery cues when young,
becoming pungent as it matures.
HOW TO ENJOY Eat on its own, in a HOW TO ENJOY When the cheese is
salad, or with vegetables. Pair it with well aged, simply serve dressed with HOW TO ENJOY Traditionally used as
Aglianico Sorrentino wine or, for those olive oil. It is great alongside Aglianico a main dish or in stuffed pasta. It
who like sweet tastes, a Lacryma del Volture di Paternoster or Moscato balances happily with Greco Bianco
Christi del Vesuvio. di Saracena. di Melissa or Rosato di Scavigna.
ITALY Campania ITALY Lazio, Campania, and Calabria ITALY Basilicata, Calabria, Campania, Molise,
Age 1 month–1 year and Puglia
Age 3–6 months
Weight and Shape 41⁄2–61⁄2lb (2–3kg), Age 1 month–1 year
Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz–261⁄2lb
(8–12kg), oval or sphere oval or sphere Weight and Shape 21⁄4–51⁄2lb (1–2.5kg),
Size Various. D. 6in (15cm) (pictured) various shapes (oval pictured) 107
Size Various. D. 12in (30cm), H. 13in (33cm)
(pictured) Milk Cow Size Various. D. 71⁄2in (19cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm)
(pictured)
Milk Cow Classification Hard
Milk Cow
Classification Semi-soft or hard Producer Various
Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various
Producer Various
Gorgonzola PDO A CLOSER LOOK
In 1970, a consortium was created to
Everything about Gorgonzola is sexy—its rustic yet elegant ensure that Gorgonzola was made
appearance, its voluptuous, melt-in-the-mouth texture, its musky with milk from designated areas,
by approved producers. Only those
aroma, and its sweet, spicy tang. Even its name is seductive. It is that meet the tough standards are
thought to be the first blue cheese, and its origin is steeped in stamped with the consortium’s “G.”
folklore and legend.
The most charming version is Today, Gorgonzola is made under
the story of a careless youth who, strict regulations by around 40 small
distracted by his young love, left family dairies and large factories.
a bundle of moist curd hanging A few artisan cheesemakers still use
overnight on a hook in a damp cellar. unpasteurized milk and follow the
The following day, hoping to disguise traditional “two-day curd” method,
his mistake, he added the curd to the allowing the curd to become
morning batch. Weeks later, he found naturally inoculated by mold, then
that the cheese had a greenish mold mixing it with the curd from the
through the center. Curious, he morning milking. Since the mid-
sampled it, and found it so good that 1900s, however, most Gorgonzola
he repeated the procedure—and the has been made in factories using
rest, as they say, is history. pasteurized milk and the “one-day WOODEN BELT Once firm, the cheese is
Gorgonzola’s first name was curd” method with the blue mold removed from the mold, rubbed and rolled in
Stracchino di Gorgonzola, derived added to the milk, producing more salt or in brine baths to save labor costs, then
encased in a wide belt made of thin wooden
from the Italian word stracca, even bluing than the traditional slats and left to mature.
meaning “tired,” as it was made in cheese, though not as strong a flavor.
the fall when the exhausted cows Gorgonzola is made in large drums
returned from the mountain pastures and, when ripe, the sides bulge like a
I T A LY
I T A LY
109
sheep’s or goat’s milk, or a mix. and the sheep flavor more distinct. 12 months, is very hard, brittle,
pungent, and salty.
HOW TO ENJOY Eat as a snack. Unites HOW TO ENJOY Serve a younger cheese
nicely with Italian Spumante Classico, with roasted peppers and use an older HOW TO ENJOY Delicious with slices of
or pair with a young red wine like cheese for grating over pasta or apple when young. More mature cheeses
Rosso di Franciacorta, or, when vegetable dishes. Team with Torgiano are ideal for grating. Perfect with a
available, Vino Novello. Rosso, or a late-harvest white wine. glass of Aglianico del Volture Riserva.
I T A LY
and pungent with a hint of roast lamb. acidity, and it has a nutty, slightly aroma and taste.
goaty aroma.
HOW TO ENJOY Fabulous grated on pasta, HOW TO ENJOY Caprino Stagionato is
in regional artichoke dishes, or over HOW TO ENJOY Typically it is served with perfect as a table cheese and delicious
stuffed lamb and veal cutlets. Pair bread or crackers, but it can be used for grated over pasta dishes. Team it with
with a red like Nero d’Avola or a sweet stuffing pasta or bresaola. Pair it with a glass of Merlot di Torre Rosazza.
Primitivo di Manduria Dolce Naturale. a glass of Franciacorta Millesimato.
112
I T A LY
times herbaceous or fruity. Small irregular eyes can be present. aroma and taste that is sweet with
vegetal notes.
HOW TO ENJOY Carnia is typically used HOW TO ENJOY Traditionally used to stuff
in frico, a local omelet-type dish, and Bresaola rosettes as part of a warm HOW TO ENJOY Conventionally a table
is best served with a local wine like winter Italian dish. Casatella goes well cheese, it complements Verdicchio dei
Refosco Isonzo del Friuli or Verduzzo with Prosecco Millesimato Bisol, a Castelli di Jesi Casal Serra or Malvasia
Friulano Passito. sparkling wine. delle Lipari.
with an aroma of fermented fruits, while delicate when young, becoming strong and sticky.
the sweet herbaceous flavors change and very savory when ripe.
with the pastures. HOW TO ENJOY In Italy, Crescenza
HOW TO ENJOY Traditionally eaten on its is sometimes used for preparing
HOW TO ENJOY Eat with dried fig conserve own and married with Barolo or used a delicate sauce with chestnuts or in
along with Vendemmia Tardiva Cavit or in fondues or velouté (creamy cheese puff-pastry dishes. It goes well with
Franciacorta Millesimato Bellavista. sauce). It is also delicious with honey. Pinot Nero or Valcalepio Rosso.
I T A LY
throughout give this slightly citrusy and lemony, it becomes sweet at the taste of ewe’s milk and a long-lasting,
cheese the intense aroma and flavor end with a buttery, vegetal, and smoky, salty, pungent finish.
of truffle, and a hint of the stone cellars. nutty aroma.
HOW TO ENJOY Serve as an hors d’oeuvre
HOW TO ENJOY It flakes or crumbles HOW TO ENJOY Great on a cheese board with fresh fava beans, or when aged, it
easily, so try it over pasta, carpaccio, or with black rye bread and a generous can be grated over numerous pasta or
eggs, along with an Italian red. aromatic wine, or served with polenta. vegetable dishes.
sweet and savory, like raw onions, notes and a hint of almonds. flavor that hints of the herbaceous
leaving the taste buds waiting for pastures on which the cows graze.
more. Strong salty finish in the end. HOW TO ENJOY Fontal melts superbly,
so it is ideal in fondues or melted over HOW TO ENJOY Famously used in a
HOW TO ENJOY As the last cheese on the vegetables, especially wild mushrooms. fonduta, a dish in which the cheese is
board with a big red wine or a dark Pair it with Pignolo di Filiputti and whipped with eggs and cream. It goes
craft beer. Terre d’Agata di Salaparuta. well with full-flavored red wines.
ITALY Langhe, Piemonte ITALY Gottolengo, Lombardia ITALY Saint-Cristophe, Valle D’Aosta
Age 3–4 months Age 45–60 days Age 3 months
Weight and Shape 71⁄2lb (3.5kg), cylinder Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz–22lb Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz–261⁄2lb
Size D 81⁄2in (22cm), H 21⁄2in (7cm) (8–10kg), wheel (8–12kg), flat wheel
116 Milk Cow and goat Size D. 12–151⁄2in (30–40cm), H. 3–4in Size D. 12–151⁄2in (30–40cm), H. 3–4in
(7–10cm) (7–10cm)
Classification Flavor-added
Milk Cow Milk Cow
Producer Beppino Occelli
Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various Producer Various
Formaggella del Formaggio di Fossa Formaggio Ubriaco
Luinese PDO di Sogliano PDO Ubriaco, or “drunken,” refers to the
Dating to the 17th century, it is Fossa, or “hole,” refers to the technique technique of placing young cheeses in
produced from the milk of goats that by which cheeses are stored in holes barrels of crushed grape skins and
graze on Alpine pastures and cuttings carved into the walls of caves in seeds left over from wine-making.
from spring fencerows. Unlike most goat Sagliano, which are then sealed with Over two to three days, they are
cheeses, the milk is held in vats for about chalk paste to ensure a constant sprinkled with wine, then left to
30 hours at 39°F (4°C) before being temperature as the cheeses ripen. mature and harden for a week or more.
coagulated; the curd is then cut very
small to give it a soft, compact texture. TASTING NOTES Covered in green, TASTING NOTES The creamy richness
yellowish, and white mold, the taste is of the cheese marries well with the
TASTING NOTES Wrinkled and white variable, but typically it has a pungent distinct flavor and aroma of the wine,
I T A LY
with a goaty aroma, a moist, crumbly smell and a sharp bitterish taste. which varies according to the
texture, and a herbaceous taste, with preferences of the cheesemaker.
sweet almond notes on the finish HOW TO ENJOY Grate over regional pasta,
such as passatelli or tortelloni, and HOW TO ENJOY Superb when served with
HOW TO ENJOY A superior cheese, it is minestrone. Impressive when served a baked potato or when partnered with
excellent with Cabernet Sauvignon di with Cagnina di Romagna, or even polenta and mushrooms. Try with an
Walch or Moscato Strevi Passito. better with Albana Passito. aromatic wine.
other stretched-curd or pasta filata sweet and mild, like aged but not sour
cheeses in Israel and Cyprus. milk, with an earthy, mossy aroma and
THE CURD the freshly-made curd is
Rich in calcium, high in protein, a taste reminiscent of new leather. allowed to ferment for a few hours before being
and with a high vitamin and mineral Springy at first, it becomes softer, but cut into blocks and then put through a mill that
content, mozzarella is highly never crinkled, slippery, or salty, and it shreds it into small pieces. The rubbery pieces
is bitter and sour only when overripe. are covered with boiling water.
nutritious, easily digested, and, at
21 percent fat, surprisingly low in
fat. Protected under Italian and HOW TO ENJOY Its role is to give
European law, it is strictly monitored texture rather than taste to a dish and
to ensure the quality and provenance to trap, absorb, and intensify the juices
of the product. In fact, authentic and ingredients between its luscious
118 Mozzarella di Bufala can only be layers of curd, producing some of the
made in seven provinces in south- most memorable culinary combinations.
central Italy: Caserta and Salerno, Perfect on pizza; salads of olive oil,
and parts of Benevento, Naples, balsamic vinegar, sun-ripened
Frosinone, Latina, and Rome. tomatoes, and basil; melanzane alla
parmigiana, made with layers of
eggplant and mozzarella in a tomato
sauce; or in a carrozza (carriage),
sandwiched between two slices of
ITALY Campania and Lazio bread, battered, and fried. When using
Age From 1 day fresh mozzarella to top a pizza or fill a
Weight and Shape Various calzone, it is best to slice it and allow it
Size Various to drain for several hours in a colander
Milk Water buffalo so that the crust doesn’t become soggy.
Classification Fresh
Producer Various
Whole ball
STRETCHING In a process known as pasta
filata, the curds are spun and stretched into
balls, small balls (bocconcini), or braids of
varying sizes. This creates layers of curd with
droplets of whey trapped within the concentric
circles that resemble cooked chicken breast.
I T A LY
Ball, torn
straw-tinged, ivory rind, the paste is hints of dried fruits. taste and an elastic texture that turns
compact and springy with widely compact and floury after 2–3 months.
scattered holes. The delicate taste has HOW TO ENJOY Itis classically used on
an aroma of forage fragrances. homemade pasta and ravioli, and HOW TO ENJOY Pair with bread, olive oil,
in hundreds of other recipes. Goes oregano, and a glass of red wine: either
HOW TO ENJOY Use in polenta or pasta well with bold whites, reds, and I Balzini di Filiputti, or a full-bodied
dishes. Try with Dolcetto d’Ovada. sparkling wines. Amarone di Valpolicella.
I T A LY
full of sweet flavors and floral and buttery aroma. eyes can be present.
vegetal hints.
HOW TO ENJOY Essential for making HOW TO ENJOY Try Montasio with large
HOW TO ENJOY Bomboloni (“doughnuts”) tiramisù and charlottes, and fantastic ravioli and asparagus. Pair it with
are made with Marzolino, bread, oil, served with apple slices with sugar and a glass of Sassò di Felluga, with its
and pepper. Good with Ansonica Costa lemon. For a wonderful combination, intense spiciness, or the sweet Picolit
dell’Argentario or Sagrantino Passito. pair it with a classic dessert wine. del Collio.
becomes crumbly and floral in middle delicate floral and fruity notes.
age, and spicy and fruity when old. HOW TO ENJOY It is used in the famous
HOW TO ENJOY Simply serve it with Murazzano timbale, and for preparing
HOW TO ENJOY Great with fruit and nuts. pepper and olive oil, or cook with Bruss (a cream with spices and grappa
Team with a full-bodied red, such as gnocchi. It is delightful matched with or other spirits). It matches perfectly
Recioto della Valpolicella; when very old, Merlot dei Colli Trevigiani, a ruby-red, with Langhe Freisa di Cozzo, or the
pair it with a sweet Torcolato Maculan. full-bodied, tannic, and balanced wine. rich, red Verduno Pelaverga.
I T A LY
aroma and is slightly bitter.
HOW TO ENJOY Fill Paglierine with HOW TO ENJOY Pannarello is perfect for
HOW TO ENJOY An impressive way to nuts, raisins, white pepper, and chili fondues or paired with mixed-berry
serve this cheese is melted over turkey peppers, Italian-style, or serve with jams. Try serving it with the sparkling
breasts. It pairs well with a red Sizzano sesame and ham on crusty bread. Pair and fruity white Prosecco Cartizze
di Zanetta, where the bouquet has with a balanced red such as Dolcetto Bisol, or the fresh and grassy white
a hint of violets, and Ghemme. d’Asti, or an intense white Roero. Roero Arneis.
ITALY Corato, Piemonte ITALY Rifreddo, Piemonte ITALY Giavera del Montello, Veneto
Age 2–6 months Age 15–20 days Age 1–2 days
Weight and Shape 11–15lb 7oz (5–7kg), Weight and Shape 10oz–1lb 2oz Weight and Shape 11–19lb 2oz (5–9kg),
wheel (300–500g), small cylinder cylindrical
Size D. 12–16in (30–40cm), H. 21⁄2–3in Size D. 4–6in (10–15cm), H. 11⁄2–2in Size D. 10–12in (25–30cm), H. 21⁄2–3in 123
(6–8cm) (3–4cm) (6–8cm)
Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow
Classification Semi-soft Classification Soft white Classification Fresh
Producer Latteria Sociale Antigoriana Producer Caseificio Oreglia Producer Latteria Montello, Latteria
Modolo Dino
I T A LY
124
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TASTING NOTES
tang, which has led to its near demise. firm, friable, and sometimes has small fruity and floral, and when well
eyes. The taste is pungent and sweet, matured, has hints of toasted hazelnuts.
HOW TO ENJOY A must-have cheese on an with a vegetal aroma.
Italian Christmas Eve, stirred into HOW TO ENJOY Often used for filling
steamed vegetables. Serve with HOW TO ENJOY Delicious on macaroni or stuffed peppers and artichokes, or
aromatic Pelago Umani Ronchi, or the ground beef and eggplant. Team it with grated over grilled lamb. It goes
intense Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso. full-bodied Cirò or fruity Bivongi Bianco. perfectly with Chianti dei Colli Senesi.
sweetness typical of ewe’s milk, with it is firm and friable with a pungent,
a salty tang and hints of lanolin. HOW TO ENJOY Excellent with French salty, full, and long-lasting flavor.
onion soup and lamb dishes. It is also
HOW TO ENJOY Grate over pasta and a basic ingredient in the local dish HOW TO ENJOY Serve young cheeses with
risottos, and serve with carasau bread culingiones, a sort of ravioli with vegetables, aged ones with bread and
(dry bread), and a glass of Montesodi ricotta and herbs. Pair with Dolcetto di olives or grated over pasta. Team with
Chianti Rùfina or Vernaccia Sarda. Dogliani and Nuragus di Cagliari. Anthìlia Donnafugata or sweet Zibibbo.
I T A LY
yellow or white with a sweet taste and also pungent and astringent with compact, and friable. It has a rich,
milky aroma. Aged, it becomes crumbly saffron and black pepper notes. intense fruity sweetness, becoming
and savory with dry, fruity notes. more aromatic when aged.
HOW TO ENJOY Fantastic for melting, it is
HOW TO ENJOY Eat with a lettuce or also often added to bucatini with HOW TO ENJOY Delicious for snacking,
chicory salad, along with Morellino di artichoke hearts. Match it with Etna cheese boards, or grating. Serve with
Scansano or Moscadello di Montalcino. Rosso or Cerasuolo di Vittoria. full-bodied fruity reds like Pinot Noir.
I T A LY
Stamp of quality from
The distinctive
the Consorzio. Date of manufacture. brittle, crumbly
texture is typical
Interior of an aged cheese.
129
Primo Sale Provolone PDO Provolone del Monaco
Primarily produced on small farms in A pasta filata cheese, like Caciocavallo, PDO
Sicily and Sardinia using lamb rennet. Provolone was traditionally the Legend has it that this cheese was
The name means “first salt,” a reference cheese of the poor, because just a little created by a visiting monk, while the
to the fact that is it sold a few days piece gave a lot of flavor. Originally milk is linked to a breed of dairy cattle,
after it has been salted. Some are from southern Italy, it was brought named Agerolese, that was bred by the
flavored with black or red peppercorns. to the north at the end of the 19th House of Bourbon in the 18th century.
century by the Margiotta and It is aged in natural caves, or tufa, that
TASTING NOTES It has a sharp, refreshing Auricchio families. are formed near mineral springs.
acidity, but with sweet notes. The
texture is crunchy, with irregular eyes TASTING NOTES It can be mild, sweet, and TASTING NOTES The aromatic herbs of
that exude whey. The pungent aroma milky when clotted with calf rennet, the Lattari mountain pastures, such as
I T A LY
has herbal hints. but has a stronger flavor when the milk thyme, oregano, and marjoram, give the
is coagulated with kid rennet. milk, and cheese, a delicious flavor.
HOW TO ENJOY Serve it sliced into thin
layers and dressed with olive oil, salt, HOW TO ENJOY The Dolce variety can be HOW TO ENJOY Simply serve it with olive
black pepper, and chopped fresh mint. grilled when young; use Piccante or oil and fresh aromatic herbs, such as
It is used in fish dishes too. It goes well aged in risotto. Pair with Gutturnio di wild fennel, parsley, and basil. Pair
with local wines, as well as Pinot Grigio. Poggiarello, or Collio Rosso di Russiz. with a robust red or a sweet Marsala.
I T A LY
pungent, and salty with nutmeg hints. the mouth. The flavor is a balance of refreshing, having an aroma of yogurt
sweet, sour, and bitter tastes with and a suggestion of wild herbs.
HOW TO ENJOY Try it with nuts and pears. a hint of citrus fruit on the finish.
Use the Dolce variety in mild dishes, HOW TO ENJOY Used in the specialty dish
Piccante in stronger flavored ones. HOW TO ENJOY Locals eat it with boiled of Quartirolo pie, or serve with celery
Serve with Freisa d’Asti, or Lambrusco potatoes, olive oil, salt, vinegar, and and parsley. Try with Valbissera di san
Secco di Sorbara (sparkling red wine). chopped chives. Good with Teroldego Colombano or Malvasia delle Lipari.
Rotaliano Rosso or Pinot Noir.
ITALY Emilia-Romagna ITALY Fassa Valley, Trentino-Alto Adige ITALY Lombardia
Age 1–12 months Age 5–10 months Age 5–10 days
Weight and Shape 21⁄4–220lb Weight and Shape 19lb 13oz (9kg), wheel Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz–7lb 11oz
(1–100kg), flask, salamino, pancetta, pear, Size D. 14–171⁄2in (35–45cm), H. 4–10in (1.5–3.5kg), flat square
melon, mandarino (10–25cm) Size L. 7–81⁄2in (18–22cm), W. 11⁄2in–3in 131
Size Various Milk Cow (4–8cm), H. 11⁄2in–3in (4–8cm)
Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Milk Cow
Classification Semi-soft Producer Caseificio Sociale Predazzo e Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various Moena, Predazzo, Trento Producer Various
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132
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TASTING NOTES
small eyes and a taste that is sweet- sweet-sour taste with marked vegetal a warm nut-brown. The texture is soft,
sour-salty, pungent, and astringent, notes like grass, hay, and cauliflower. very fine, and crumbly with a light,
with vegetal and animal hints. fresh, delicate taste and hints of pine.
HOW TO ENJOY Very good for fondues and
HOW TO ENJOY Marinate in olive oil and a great vol-au-vent filling. It tastes HOW TO ENJOY At its best with blueberry
garlic, then dress with white vinegar delicious alongside a glass of Nebiolo jam, acacia honey, and rye bread. Pair
and oregano. Match with Grecanico. d’Alba or Sciacchetrà. it with crisp, light white wines.
citrus aroma. The flavor changes floral hints. paste is creamy and smooth, having a
depending on the pastures on which balance of sweet-sour-salt with a hint
the sheep graze. HOW TO ENJOY A traditional Italian dish of lanolin from the ewe’s milk.
is an omelet made with Robiola d’Alba.
HOW TO ENJOY Ricotta Romana is a major The cheese is best served with a dry HOW TO ENJOY Eat as it is, or dress with
ingredient in a dessert called “apostle’s red wine such as Alabarda Barbera olive oil and aromatic herbs. Match it
fingers.” Pair with Frascati Superiore. d’Alba, or Dolcetto d’Alba. with generous reds, such as Barbaresco.
I T A LY
sour. It has a milky-yogurt aroma with Scamorza Affumicata is brown on the complex taste of the milk used to make
citrus fruit notes. outside, brown-yellow inside, and the it, with floral, fruity, or citrus notes.
smoky aroma enhances the sweet taste. It is especially good in summer.
HOW TO ENJOY Eat in risotto with porcini.
Team it with Cabernet Sauvignon La HOW TO ENJOY Eat fresh or melted. Team HOW TO ENJOY Eat it with slices of speck,
Stoppa or a sweet Malvasia di Candia. with Pomino Rosso Frescobaldi, or or use in fondues and sauces. Pair with
Spumante Classico Italiano. any dry white Cortese wine.
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eight cheeses.
137
Half square
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138
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more buttery when higher in fat. The a hint of spiced mushrooms. easily, with vegetal and woody notes.
strong aroma comes from the pastures
on which the cows graze. HOW TO ENJOY For an authentic flavor, HOW TO ENJOY Use grated in bruss
try this with gnocchi and polenta. or pastasciutta, or melted in many
HOW TO ENJOY Enjoy this on its own, or Match it with an austere red, such as recipes. Team it with a dry Magnus
with barley soup. Team it with fruity the velvety Valtellina Superiore, or a Langhe Chardonnay, or a light and dry
red wines. sweet, late-harvest white wine. sparkling red Barbera del Monferrato.
fruity taste and hints of cooked butter pleasant-tasting, it has a strong aroma,
HOW TO ENJOY Typically used to make and spiced meat broth. mainly of green and fermented grass
bagnet, a tomato sauce with parsley, with a hint of toasted seeds.
garlic, and minced anchovies. It is a HOW TO ENJOY Grate over salads and
perfect match for lively reds such as pasta or vegetables. Team it with a HOW TO ENJOY Serve aged Vezzena on its
Rocca Giovino Dolcetto d’Alba, or the sparkling white Ferrari Riserva or a own or with fruit. Try it with a white
striking Diano d’Alba Superiore. sweet Vin Santo di Nosiola. Nosiola Spagnolli or Refrontolo Passito.
I T A LY
Bela Badia Bernardo Cacioricotta
This soft cheese, with a smooth, dry A classic fresh summer cheese made Affectionately known in southern Italy
crust, is a recent addition to the ranks only with milk from cows grazing on as the “hockey puck” for its flat, round
of Italian cheeses. It takes its name high Alpine pastures. It is virtually shape, this cheese comes from a strong
from the Badia valley in which it was rindless and is a reddish-yellow in color, tradition of Italian farmhouse types.
created, and is appreciated for its high due to the addition of a little saffron It is half ricotta and half fresh cheese,
lactic bacteria content. powder to the curds during production. made from a combination of ewe’s and
It can be matured, during which time it goat’s milk.
TASTING NOTES The light, straw-colored will develop a brownish-yellow rind
paste of Bela Badia becomes intense and an intense aromatic flavor. TASTING NOTES It has a very mild aroma
with time and has a fresh, creamy, and of sweet milk when fresh, and is 141
sweet taste. As the cheese is chewed, its TASTING NOTES The added saffron gives a citrusy, tangy, and pungent when aged.
flavor is enhanced by generous milky floral aroma and a sweet, slightly bitter
and grass hints. taste to this delicate cheese. HOW TO ENJOY Usually used fresh in
Mediterranean salads, or grated over
HOW TO ENJOY Eat this cheese grilled HOW TO ENJOY Eaten fresh with crusty pasta when aged. Pair it with Leone de
and accompany it with a glass of bread, it pairs well with a red or a Castris Messapia, or Marsala Vergine
Riesling Renano or sparkling Brut white Valcalepio wine. di Terre Arse.
Hausmannhof Riserva.
ITALY Puglia and Basilicata
ITALY Lombardy Age From 2–3 weeks, until 2–3 months
ITALY Trentino-Alto Adige Age 10–15 days Weight and Shape 14oz–2lb 1⁄4oz (400g–1kg);
Age 2 months Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–21⁄4oz small cylindrical form, or truncated cone
Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg); flat wheel (500g–1kg); flat wheel Size D. 51⁄2–91⁄2in (13–24cm), H. 11⁄2–3in
Size D. 3in (7cm), H. 3–4in (8–10cm) Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 2in (5cm) (4–7cm)
Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Goat and ewe
Classification Fresh or semi-soft Classification Fresh Classification Fresh, hard when ripened
Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various
Canestrato di Vacca Pecorino di Filiano Pecorino di Laticauda
and di Pecora PDO This hard cheese is named after the
Named after the rush basket (canestro) An ancient cheese that is made in Laticauda breed of sheep that was
in which it is made, this cheese is the Basilicata region using milk from introduced from Africa in the 18th
coagulated or curdled with kid rennet. native Gentile di Puglia ewes. The century, then crossed with the local
The curd is still manipulated by hand cheeses are ripened in local caves. Pagliarola race.
in the traditional way that dates back
to the days of the Roman Empire. TASTING NOTES It has a golden-yellow TASTING NOTES The thin, waxy rind is
or, when treated with oil and vinegar, yellow-orange over an ivory white,
TASTING NOTES Cow’s-milk Canestrato is brown-yellow rind imprinted with the grainy, and friable paste. With a sweet
sweet, becoming salty and nutty when pattern of the basket molds. The firm, and salty taste, it has an aroma of cut
mature, while the Pecora (ewe’s milk) crunchy paste is light yellow with very grass, wild flowers, and citrus fruit.
is more aromatic and has a nutty small eyes. Sweet and buttery when
aroma at around six months. young, it becomes pungent, salty, and HOW TO ENJOY Serve fresh as a table
strongly aromatic when mature. cheese, or use to stuff and fill
HOW TO ENJOY Use in salads, grated over artichokes and in delicious local cheese
pasta, in béchamel sauce, or in stuffed HOW TO ENJOY Used in the dish pecorino pies. Try with Vino Bianco Avignonesi
vegetables. It goes well with Greco di maritato, or grated over boiled fava and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.
Tufo, or light and fruity red wines. beans. Pair with local red wines.
I T A LY
Valle D’Aosta Valtellina Casera PDO Vastedda della Valle
Fromadzo PDO This cheese is made in Valtellina, an del Belice PDO
Well known in the 15th century, this isolated valley in the Alps, using milk Unlike other Italian pasta filata
hard cheese is made using morning and from Bruna Alpina cows, known for cheeses, this is made with ewe’s milk,
evening milk, then left to stand before their excellent, sweet-flavored milk. in particular from the local Belice
the cream is skimmed off. Some cheeses breed. Vastedda is derived from vasta,
contain up to 10 percent goat’s milk. TASTING NOTES The thin, yellow rind the base of the cheese-shaping dish.
covers a dense but creamy interior, with
TASTING NOTES Often flavored with small, irregular eyes. Its sweet-and- TASTING NOTES The fine white rind covers
juniper, cumin, or wild fennel, it is sour-flavor becomes salty when aged. a shiny, straw-yellow, very moist, soft
supple with tiny holes and has a The aromatic flavor has honey and floral paste. The flavor is sour and sweet and 143
slightly sweet taste that becomes notes, sometimes with a bitter finish. becomes aromatic after a few days with
stronger and more aromatic when aged. hints of herbs and flowers.
HOW TO ENJOY It is the basic ingredient
HOW TO ENJOY Grate onto toast or into of pizzoccheri, and is used to fill sciatt, HOW TO ENJOY Eat as an appetizer with a
spinach or cabbage soup. Pair it with a stuffed buckwheat pancakes. Best glass of Regaleali Tasca d’Almerita.
dry red wine such as Enfer d’Arvier, or teamed with a red Sassella Negri.
Vallée d’Aosta Donnas.
La Peral
ASTURIAS
Afuega’l Pitu ★,
Cebreiro ★ CANTABRIA
Pasiego de
Ahumado de Pría, Cantabria★,
Cabrales ★, Liébana★,
las Garmillas
GALICIA Casín ★, Picón Bejes Tresviso ★ PAÍS
Gamonedo ★, VASCO
Arúza-Ulloa ★,
Taramundi
San Simón da Costa ★, Valdeón ★
NAVARRA
Tetilla ★
N Idiazábal ★,
Castellano, Roncal ★
Ibérico, LA RIOJA
Pata de Mulo, Camerano ★
Zamorano ★
VIANA DO
CASTILLA Y LEÓN
CASTELO Beato de Tábara
VILA
REAL Cañarejal
BRAGA
Cabra Transmontano ★
BRAGANÇA
PORTO Cabra Transmontano ★ Zamorano ★ ARAGÓN
Tronchón
AVEIRO
Serra da Estrela ★
VISEU GUARDA
LEIRIA CASTELO
BRANCO
Los Montes de Toledo
Castelo Branco ★
FARO
GOLFO DE
CÁDIZ
ATLANTIC OCEAN
COSTA DEL SOL
GOLFO DE VALENCIA
Key
★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses
Produced only here
Produced throughout the region
Tronchón
PAÍS
VALENCIANO
SANTA MARIA
SPAIN
and is matured for two months. TASTING NOTES Matured for two months thin, leathery orange-red rind and
before being gently smoked over beech small holes in the pale interior.
TASTING NOTES Afuega’l Pitu, meaning and oak, allowing the fragrance of
“stick in the throat,” after its tart, added ewe cream to complement the TASTING NOTES The aroma is reminiscent
creamy texture, is made from acidified heady aromas of cow’s milk produced of grassy meadows, the paste is springy,
white curd. The dusty red pimentón on mountain pastures. and the initial impression is mild and
variety has a seriously fiery finish. buttery, but with unexpected depth.
HOW TO ENJOY Ideal with an aperitif, it is
HOW TO ENJOY Fresh white Afuega’l Pitu delicious with the fruity white wines of HOW TO ENJOY Melts well in gratins and
has a thick, yogurty consistency and is Galicia, or try it dipped in cinnamon, sauces for vegetable and fish dishes,
excellent with jam or honey; the hot cumin, and breadcrumbs, then fried and pairs extremely well with a chilled
variety needs a dry sherry. and served with Muscat grape jelly. dry cava or fruity or sweet white wines.
S PA I N
quiet confidence on the palate. back to the meadows. An elegant and
HOW TO ENJOY Ripe tomatoes alone are exceptional cheese.
HOW TO ENJOY Relish its gentle flavors excellent partners for Carrat, and its
simply on breadsticks, or spread the perfect Catalan match would be HOW TO ENJOY To be true to the monastic
cheese like butter onto whole-grain, escalivada—grilled eggplant, green purity of the cheese’s inspiration, it is
sourdough, or pumpernickel bread. peppers, and Aragón olives—with a best appreciated on its own, or after
Pairs well with a white Ribeiro wine. fruity white wine such as Alella. dinner with a refreshing Riesling.
SPAIN Galicia SPAIN Borreda, Cataluña SPAIN San Martin de Tábara, Castilla y León
Age 15–30 days Age 15–21 days Age 60–100 days
Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–7lb 11oz Weight and Shape 14oz (400g), square Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–21⁄4lb
(500g–3.5kg), round Size L. 4in (10cm), W. 4in (10cm), H. 1in (500g–1kg), cylinder
Size D. 4–10in (10–26cm), H. 2–5in (3cm) Size D. 4–6in (10–15cm), H. 21⁄2–3in 147
(5–12cm) Milk Goat (6–7cm)
Milk Cow Classification Aged fresh Milk Goat
Classification Semi-soft Producer Formatge Bauma SL Classification Hard
Producer Various Producer Santiago León Lucas
Benabarre Benasque Cabrales DOP
Blessed with an absolutely stunning Produced in the stunning Benasque A notorious strictly artisan blue cheese
setting, this dairy sits in the foothills of valley in the heart of the Pyrenees, matured in the damp, mold-rich caves
the Pyrenees facing the valleys of Aran, also known as the Valle Escondido, or of the rugged, isolated Picos de Europa
where its herds of Granadina goats are hidden valley, on a family-run farm. mountains, where mixed herds pasture.
pastured. The cheese is shaped like a The cattle graze on natural mountain Its original maple-leaf covering has
pumpkin and possesses the size and pastures, supplemented with a diet of now been replaced by green foil.
S PA I N A N D P O R T U G A L
S PA I N
dense and compact with a crumbly yet flavors of goat and mountain herbs. flavors, it has a typical bitter finish.
moist paste and a strong, genuine spicy
bite, to unctuous in the fall. HOW TO ENJOY Eaten as a dessert with HOW TO ENJOY Open the thin rind to
honey, grapes, or quince when young, or expose the silky interior, and scoop out
HOW TO ENJOY Ideally, relaxing in the served simply with toasted pistachios, with a teaspoon or breadsticks. It is
local Bar Rufino, with country-style country bread, and a young Rioja wine. also delicious melted on a rare steak
bread and a strong wine or beer. served with caramelized onions.
SPAIN Oliva de la Frontera, Extremadura SPAIN Munilla, La Rioja SPAIN Pollos, Castilla y León
Age 60–120 days Age 7 days fresh; 60 days cured Age 2–3 months
Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz (600g), round Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz (600g), Weight and Shape 9oz–1lb 2oz
Size Various drum (250–500g), round
Milk Goat Size D. 41⁄2–6in (11.5–15cm), Size D. 4–5in (10–12cm), H. 2–21⁄2in 149
H. 2–4in (5.5–10cm) (5–6cm)
Classification Semi-soft
Milk Goat Milk Ewe
Producer Quesos Artesanos Rufino
Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft
Producer Quesería la Aulaga Producer Cañarejal SL
Cantabria DOP Casín DOP Castellano
Also known as Queso Nata de Casina cattle feed on lush mountain Little known and understood mainly by
Cantabria, this was originally made in meadows to provide milk for one of the its brand name, Castellano cheese can
the Cóbreces Cistercian monastery, but oldest cheeses in Asturias. The unique actually be of outstanding character
is now produced by numerous small and recipe involves repeated rolling of the when made well because the Castilla y
medium-sized family dairies using milk curds during the first week, before they León region produces the best,
from the abundant dairy cattle found are kneaded into shape to produce creamiest ewe’s milk in Spain.
S PA I N A N D P O R T U G A L
S PA I N
It has a fresh, lightly acidic yogurt flavor and the typical bitterness of hints of damp mushroom, salt, and a
tang, with an aroma of warm butter. thistle rennet on the finish. nutty aftertaste of hazelnuts.
HOW TO ENJOY Serve with honey and fruit HOW TO ENJOY This rare treat complements HOW TO ENJOY Relish the rustic flavor of
jams and preserves, or use in gratins fruity white wines from Galicia, this cheese from the Picos de Europa
and béchamel sauce. Cebreiro happily tropical fruit such as bananas, and fruit mountains. Gamonedo del Valle is a
pairs with chilled young Albariño wine. jams such as those made from berries. milder, more accomplished cheese.
SPAIN Lugo, Galicia SPAIN Gran Canaria, Islas Canarias SPAIN Cangas de Onis and Onis, Asturias
Age 3–7 days Age 2–3 weeks Age 3–5 months
Weight and Shape 10oz–41⁄2lb Weight and Shape 41⁄2–11lb (2–5kg), Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–15lb 7oz
(300g–2kg), chef’s hat wheel (500g–7kg), drum
Size D. 31⁄2–6in (9–15cm), H. 3in (7cm) Size D. 81⁄2–12in (22–30cm), H. 11⁄2–21⁄2in Size D. 4–12in (10–30cm), H. 21⁄2–6in 151
Milk Cow (4–6cm) (6–15cm)
Classification Fresh Milk Ewe and cow Milk Cow, with some ewe or goat
Producer Queixerias Castelo de Branas; Classification Semi-soft Classification Blue
Carmen Arrojo Valcarcel Xan Busto Producer Various Producer Various
Mahón DO A CLOSER LOOK
Mahón is lovingly nurtured and
Granted Denomination of Origin status in 1985, Mahón comes matured by the skillful afinadores
from the Balearic Island of Menorca. The tiny island has a who buy the generic young cheeses
and age them according to their own
colorful history, with invasions by the Carthaginians, Romans, individual methods.
Arabs, French, and lastly, in the 18th century, the British,
who introduced the Friesian cow.
TASTING NOTES At 20–60 days it
is supple, buttery. and mild; semi-
cured at 2–5 months, the flavor
increases and the texture
becomes firmer; cured, or
añejo, at 5–10 months, it
is hard and slightly
granular, not unlike
Parmigiano-Reggiano
(see pp128–129), and
has an aroma and
taste of peaches with
a sea-salt finish.
Green-labeled Mahón is
S PA I N A N D P O R T U G A L
S PA I N
153
SPAIN Cataluña SPAIN El Hierro, Islas Canarias SPAIN Castilla-La Mancha and Castilla y León
Age 2–4 months Age 10–60 days Age 1 month minimum
Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg), round Weight and Shape 12oz–8lb 13oz Weight and Shape 21⁄4–7lb 11oz
Size D. 6in (15cm), 3in (H. 7cm) (350g–4kg), cylinder (1–31⁄2kg), drum
154 Milk Goat Size D. 31⁄2–10in (8.5–25.5cm), Size D. 31⁄2–81⁄2in (9–22cm), H. 3–5in
H. 21⁄2–31⁄2in (6–8.5cm) (7–12cm)
Classification Semi-soft
Milk Goat, cow, and ewe Milk Cow, goat, and ewe
Producer Various
Classification Semi-soft Classification Hard
Producer Sociedad Cooperativa Ganaderos Producer Various
de El Hierro; Valverde
Ibores DOP Idiazabal DOP Liébana DOP
A rustic cheese whose roots lie in the This ancient cheese comes from the Small cheeses (quesucos) are made in
migrating herds of native Verata and Basque mountains, where shepherds each village in the foothills of the Picos
Retinta goats and the wild vegetation spent summer in the high pastures and de Europa. Mainly fresh or semi-soft,
and oak forests of the area, it is found returned in the fall with their cheeses. sometimes smoked, they are made with
either plain or brushed with olive oil Stored in the rafters of the shepherds’ cow’s or sometimes ewe’s or goat’s milk.
and pimentón (smoked paprika). huts over the summer, the cheese took
on a wood-smoke flavor. TASTING NOTES Lemony when fresh,
TASTING NOTES The firm white paste is but most are supple, buttery, and
rich with aromas of broom, lavender, TASTING NOTES Hard and chewy, with aromatic, with a hint of caramel when
and thyme, while the copper-colored tiny holes and a coppery rind, Idiazabal made with ewe’s milk. The rinds are
pimentón rind imparts a warmth to is smoked with beech wood, adding a typically thin, rough, and straw-
S PA I N
the cheese’s tangy finish. light smokiness to the distinctive colored, or bright white if fresh.
caramel sweetness of the ewe’s milk. Smoking adds piquancy.
HOW TO ENJOY Sprinkle a slice with Artisan varieties are a rare treat.
pimentón, lightly toast, and serve with HOW TO ENJOY Serve on a cheese board
an aperitif or as a light supper with HOW TO ENJOYTry a Basque recipe such alongside dried fruits and nuts, and a
salad. Ideal with a crisp dry white as squid and Idiazabal risotto, or serve selection of young wines. Young cheeses
wine and unsalted nuts. simply with Txacoli or a Basque cider. are delicious with mountain honey.
HOW TO ENJOY Traditionally grated into HOW TO ENJOY Savor with a Muscat HOW TO ENJOY Sublime on crusty
vegetable soups or summer salads, and dessert wine, add to beet salad, or fry white bread with fruits and nuts:
served with a minerally white island in tempura batter and serve with pistachios, apples, and quince paste.
wine. Young Majorero makes a superb orange-blossom honey, accompanied by Pair with fruity white wine or chilled
fondue flavored with orange zest. a light, white La Mancha wine. dry fino.
SPAIN Fuerteventura, Islas Canarias SPAIN Ávila, Castilla y León SPAIN Navalmorales, Castilla-La Mancha
Age 20 days minimum Age 6–8 weeks Age 2–3 months
Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb–13lb 4oz Weight and Shape 3lb (1.4kg), mule’s hoof Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg), round
(1–6kg), round Size L. 9in (23cm), W. 12cm (5in), Size D. 61⁄2in (17cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm)
156 Size D. 6–14in (15–35cm), H. 21⁄2–31⁄2in H. 21⁄2in (61⁄2cm) Milk Goat
(6-9cm) Milk Goat Classification Semi-soft
Milk Goat Classification Aged fresh Producer La Merendera Sociedad
Classification Hard Producer Queserías del Tiétar Cooperativa
Producer SAT Ganaderos de Fuerteventura
Murcia al Vino DOP Palmero DOP Pasiego de las
Spain’s Murcia region has a growing Spain’s largest cheese comes from the Garmillas
cheese industry based on the native greenest of the Canary Islands, where A fragile primitive cheese made
goats, Murciano-Granadinas, that have the Palmero goat feeds on rich pasture, without a mold, originally from the
been honed by genetic selection for moving steadily up the slopes as the valley of Pas, it is now made to more
generations. This cheese is washed weather warms. contemporary standards and available
with local Jumilla and Yecla red wines at the weekly market in the town of
and also comes in an unwashed version. TASTING NOTES Diverse and lush grazing Ampuero and beyond.
gives this lightly smoked cheese a rich
TASTING NOTES A washed-curd cheese flavor. Palmero is pleasantly crumbly, TASTING NOTES So fresh that the pale
with a slightly elastic texture and salty, earthy, and lightly acidic, with a rind has barely formed, its interior is
distinct, aromatic flavor, with hints of toasted aroma. soft and fatty, with an aroma of fresh
S PA I N
almonds from the rich milk and a yogurt and mountain streams.
slightly winey, fermenting fruit finish. HOW TO ENJOY Since Palmero breaks up
easily, it is commonly used in local HOW TO ENJOY Its delicate, sweet flavors
HOW TO ENJOY Try the cheese in salads, cuisine grated into mojo sauces or work well with crusty bread, salted
lightly fried, or grilled on toast and sliced alongside fish, vegetable, and anchovies, and piquillo peppers,
served with the young white or rosé potatoes. Also good on its own with the accompanied by a very cold dry cider.
wines from Jumilla and Yecla. local mineral-rich Malvasia wines. Used for the local quesada pasiega.
SPAIN Jumilla, Murcia SPAIN La Palma, Islas Canarias SPAIN Ampuero, Cantabria
Age 3 weeks minimum Age 1–3 months Age 15–20 days
Weight and Shape 10oz–41⁄2lb Weight and Shape 15lb 7oz–33lb Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g), flat disk
(300g–2 kg), drum (7–15kg), wheel Size D. 51⁄2in (14cm), H. 3⁄4in (2cm)
Size D. 3–7in (7–18cm), H. 21⁄2–31⁄2in Size D. 5–231⁄2in (12–60cm), H. 21⁄2–6in Milk Cow
157
(6–9cm) (6–15cm)
Classification Fresh
Milk Goat Milk Goat
Producer Queso Las Garmillas
Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various Producer Various
Pata de Mulo Payoyo Cabra Curado Peña Blanca de
Named “mule’s hoof” because of its Queso Payoyo was established in 1995 Corrales
shape, this cheese was traditionally by Andrés Peña and Carlos Rios. They An assertive ewe’s-milk cheese with a
molded by hand in cheesecloth, then have a wide range of cheeses.They rind of red and ocher molds, this is an
rolled on a table until the typical shape use milk from the Payoyo goats and original recipe using lactic coagulation,
was achieved. Thankfully, since the late Grazalemeña ewes that roam the and its makers very successfully
1990s, production of this disappearing pastures of the Sierra de Grazalema, capture the terroir of the Sierra de
S PA I N A N D P O R T U G A L
cheese has been reinvigorated. 900m (2,750ft) above sea level. Espadas, where it is made.
TASTING NOTES A rounded flavor, grainy TASTING NOTES Strictly artisan methods TASTING NOTES The aroma is reminiscent
texture, nutty nose, light oil on the mean that even the rennet derives from of a Cabrales, but the dense paste has
palate, and persistent finish are typical the Payoyo goat. The plain rind can be the texture of fresh curds, with hints of
of this very Castilian aged ewe’s cheese, coated with lard or paprika, and it has a leather, caramelized onions, and wool.
with its straw-colored, wrinkled rind. firm texture that reveals a soft, rounded
nutty taste, with hints of toffee. HOW TO ENJOY Its restrained piquancy
HOW TO ENJOY Attractive for slicing into works well with other Mediterranean
salads or displayed on a cheese board, it HOW TO ENJOY Ideal with an aperitif. flavors: fino or palo cortado sherry,
pairs beautifully with young red or rosé Serve with almonds and a Manzanilla black olives, extra virgin olive oil, and
wines of Ribera del Duero or Navarra. dry sherry or a cold refreshing beer. fresh crusty bread.
SPAIN Castilla y León SPAIN Sierra de Grazalema, Andalucía SPAIN Almedíjar, Valencia
Age 2–6 months Age 3–6 months Age 90 days
Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), flattened Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2.5kg), drum Weight and Shape 5lb (2.2kg), cylindrical
oval log Size D. 61⁄2in (17cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 71⁄2in (19cm), H. 3in (8cm)
158 Size L. 9in (23cm), W. 5in (13cm), H. 3in Milk Goat Milk Ewe
(8cm)
Classification Hard Classification Hard
Milk Ewe
Producer Quesos Artesanales de Villaluenga SL Producer Quesería Los Corrales
Classification Hard
Producer Various
La Peral Picón Bejes Tresviso Roncal DOP
This relatively modern foil-wrapped DOP Records for this Pyrenean sheep cheese
blue cheese from Asturias is made by From the villages of Bejes and Tresviso date back to the 13th century, and
the third generation of creator Antonio in the Picos de Europa, this ancient detail control of the herds as they were
León’s family. Production remains small- blue cheese has the hallmark sharp moved between their summer and
scale and consistent, resulting in an flavor characteristic of cheeses made winter pastures, and routes up and
accessibly priced, very pleasant cheese. in these high peaks. Abandoned mines down the Roncal valley. The cheese is
and natural caves provide excellent pressed, then aged in cloth.
TASTING NOTES A sticky yellow rind damp spaces for curing.
covers a pale yellow interior lightly TASTING NOTES Dense with a smooth
inked with blue veins. The shiny, TASTING NOTES The light gray rind with straw- to gray-colored rind that bears
curdlike cheese has a gentle buttery orange overtones conceals an interior the imprint of the cloth. With age, there
S PA I N
smell and a creamy, salty flavor that veined with dense blue streaks. A may be hints of dried fruit, a growing
develops into a clean, fresh mild blue. pungent blue cheese with a distinctive piquancy, and a lingering aftertaste.
balance of bite, butter, and salt.
HOW TO ENJOY Savor this cheese with HOW TO ENJOY Serve simply with crusty
blackberries and walnuts, accompanied HOW TO ENJOY Sprinkle with ground white bread and a good Navarran red
by either an Asturian cider or a Pedro hazelnuts or serve with prunes; pair wine or cider. Artichoke gratin with
Ximénez sherry. with Muscat or a sweet red Priorat. Roncal is a popular local dish.
Modern irrigation has meant that sheep is lifted off its back legs so the
vast swaths of vines, olive groves, milk from the swollen udder collects
sunflowers, and crops have replaced in the bucket, yielding but a few
much of the indigenous shrubs, liters of milk each a day. Yet every
acorns, blackthorn, vetch, and wild drop is imbued with the essence of
grasses of the dehesa (uncultivated the wild thyme, aromatic herbs, and
land). However, sufficient natural, withered acorns that the sheep eat.
uncultivated land still exists in the The resulting thick, sweet, aromatic
mountains and woodlands, around milk is what makes Manchego unique.
riverbanks, and on the plains to
provide summer grazing for the TASTING NOTES The depth and
hardy sheep whose thick, aromatic complexity of flavor depends on age,
S PA I N A N D P O R T U G A L
milk gives Manchego its character. but all Manchego has an unmistakable
In fall and winter, their diet is richness reminiscent of Brazil nuts
supplemented with sweet tendrils and caramel, with a distinct aroma
A CLOSER LOOK
from vines and the stubble from of lanolin and roast lamb, and a Most Manchego is now made with
field crops and hay. slightly salty finish. The texture is pasteurized milk in modern factories
that comply with EU regulations.
Most Manchego is made in dry yet creamy. It can be slightly oily
However, great care has been taken
factories, but milking is still largely on the surface and may feel a little to ensure that the finished cheese is
done by hand. It is an awesome sight greasy in the mouth, but that just as close to traditional handmade
to see the shepherds as they work makes it taste better. Each mouthful cheeses as possible.
methodically through the herds, is a taste of Spanish culture, history,
often upward of 700 at a time. Each and gastronomy.
Cheeses that reach a great age have
a peppery bite to the finish and, if cut
into thin wedges and marinated in the
strong, aromatic local green olive oil,
160
the flavor is intensified.
S PA I N
161
Exterior
San Simón da Costa Taramundi Tetilla DO
DOP The creation of a splinter cooperative This popular cheese from northwestern
Shaped as a large teardrop with a small formed to respond to the growth in Spain is well known beyond its borders
nipple on top, it is thought to have its popularity of local cheese and take due to its mellow taste and distinctive
origins in Celtic culture. Its distinctive advantage of the rich mountain milk, shape—the name Tetilla means “small
smooth copper-colored rind is the result Taramundi is inspired by the sweeter, breast.” Original farmhouse production
of gentle smoking over birch wood. more elastic cheeses of Switzerland. has been almost totally replaced by a
S PA I N A N D P O R T U G A L
S PA I N
reminiscent of dry hay. pungent, gluey, and assertive flavor of either fresh or cured, with hints of
this cheese is hard to deny. lavender and oregano.
HOW TO ENJOY Heat in the oven until
warmed through, cut a hole in the top HOW TO ENJOY Full of character, it is best HOW TO ENJOY Serve fresh ewe’s-milk
of the cheese, and scoop out the soft enjoyed with a dense white country- Tronchón with crusty bread and green
interior with a teaspoon or breadsticks. style loaf and a strong red wine such as olives; the cured goat’s-milk variety is
a Terra Alta or Somontano. sharper and pairs well with young reds.
SPAIN Extremadura SPAIN Sort, Lleida SPAIN Aragón and País Valenciano
Age From 8 weeks Age 6–12 weeks Age From 45 days
Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–3lb Weight and Shape 14oz–1lb 2oz Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–41⁄2lb
(500g–1.3kg), round (400–500g) and 21⁄4lb (1kg), round (500g–2kg), round with a crater
Size D. 41⁄2–6in (11–16cm), H. 2–21⁄2in Size D. 5in and 81⁄2in (13 and 22cm), Size D. 4–6in (10–15cm), H. 3–4in 163
(5–6cm) H. 1 and 11⁄2in (3 and 4cm) (7–10cm)
Milk Ewe Milk Cow Milk Ewe or goat, or a blend
Classification Semi-soft Classification Soft white Classification Hard
Producer Various Producer Tros de Sort Producer Various
Tupí Valdeón DO Zamorano DO
This spread, which is a very ancient The innovative Alonso brothers, Tomás The dry pastures of northern Castilla
shepherd’s recipe that is firmly back on and Javier, produce this on the León contribute to Zamorano’s complex
the modern-day Catalan cheese menu, side of the Picos de Europa, where the character. There is a heritage here
is made from the second fermentation climate of Valdéon is less humid than of shepherding and moving herds
of fresh and cured cheeses, blended that of Picón. The resulting less- between summer and winter pasture,
with olive oil and brandy or liqueur. virulent mold produces a less intense and the dramatic landscape offers a
S PA I N A N D P O R T U G A L
flavor than similar blues. Valdeón is great variety of vegetation and climate.
TASTING NOTES Matured in small ceramic often marketed as Picos de Europa.
clay pots, this is a strangely compulsive TASTING NOTES The quality and character
cheese. It has the texture of oatmeal, a TASTING NOTES The rind is rough, sticky, of the ewe’s milk allow the cheese to be
strong piquant flavor, and a slightly speckled with molds, and wrapped in matured for long periods. It develops
fetid aroma, but develops a surprisingly sycamore leaves. Distinctly spicy, but an intense, slightly tart, nutty complexity
satisfying finish. not strong, and flavored with a touch of with a distinct sheepy aroma.
salt, it leaves an elegant aftertaste.
HOW TO ENJOY Its soft texture makes it HOW TO ENJOY Select a Gran Reserva,
perfect for canapés on dry bread, but it HOW TO ENJOY Serve with hazelnuts, aged for 12 months, and serve alone at
is not a cheese for the faint-hearted. It walnuts, and prunes, and with port or the end of a meal, or perhaps with
pairs well with cold beers and ciders. cider. It also makes an excellent sauce. quince paste, and the local wine Toro.
SPAIN Cataluña SPAIN León, Castilla y León SPAIN Zamora, Castilla y León
Age A few weeks Age 2–3 months Age 100 days minimum
Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (160g) and 7oz Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2.5kg), drum Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb–8lb 13oz
(200g), pots Size D. 71⁄2in (19cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) (2–4kg), drum
164 Size No size Milk Cow, occasionally with goat Size D. 8–91⁄2in (20–24cm), H. 31⁄2–51⁄2in
Milk Cow (9–14cm)
Classification Blue
Classification Aged fresh Milk Ewe
Producer Queserías Picos de Europa
Producer Various Classification Hard
Producer Various
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL
slightly acidic and very delicate taste, TASTING NOTES Rich in butterfat and bitter finish, becoming more spicy as it
with fatty spice on the finish. protein, the paste is firm with a slightly is matured for up to 60 days. Young
unctuous texture. The flavor is lemony cheeses have a soft texture that gets
HOW TO ENJOY Cut open the top, scoop and zesty, with earthy undertones. firmer and chewier with age.
out the runny paste, dollop into
baked pastry shells, and sprinkle with HOW TO ENJOY It is excellent for grating HOW TO ENJOY In all its variations, this
oregano to serve with an aperitif, or eat or crumbling over a summer salad and cheese adds interest to a cheese board
with nutty bread and wash down with can be served as a table cheese, paired alongside dried fruit and nuts. Serve
Tempranillo or Albarinho wine. with a tawny Port or fruity white wine. with reds such as Pinot Noir.
PORTUGAL Setúbal PORTUGAL Bragança and Vila Real PORTUGAL Castelo Branco
Age 20–30 days Age 60 days Age 45–60 days
Weight and Shape 31⁄2–9oz (100–250g), Weight and Shape 1lb 5oz–2lb Weight and Shape 1lb 10oz–21⁄4lb
soft round (600–900g), round (750g–1kg), round
Size D. 2–41⁄2in (5–11cm), H. 3⁄4–21⁄2in Size D. 5–71⁄2in (12–19cm), H. 1–21⁄2in Size D. 5–6in (12–16cm), H. 21⁄2–3in 165
(2–6cm) (3–6cm) (6–7cm)
Milk Ewe Milk Goat Milk Ewe
Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft
Producer Various Producer Various Producer Various
Évora DOP Ilha Graciosa Nisa DOP
The home of this hand-shaped washed- The cheesemaking technique used to Merina Branca, the local breed of
rind cheese is the famous walled town produce Ilha Graciosa has been handed sheep, produce the rich milk for this
of Évora, where it was once traded as down by settlers of the Azores’ most traditional cheese, which farmers and
currency. Merino ewe’s milk and thistle northern island for many centuries. It locals have enjoyed for years. Local
rennet combine to create one of the best is similar to São Jorge, but is matured thistle rennet coagulates the milk,
cheeses of its kind. for a shorter period. and the cheese may be preserved in
S PA I N A N D P O R T U G A L
PORTUGAL
akin to a cross between cheddar and cardoon or thistle rennet used to make yellow paste, coagulated with thistle
Gouda, with some small holes. it adds a lightly acidic aftertaste and rennet, possesses a mild acidity with
a slight bitterness. the sweetness of toffee and a hint of
HOW TO ENJOY Ideal for fondues, São strawberries and thyme.
Jorge also makes a fine addition to a HOW TO ENJOY It is perfect paired with
traditional cheese board with fresh red wine as an aperitif. Scoop out the HOW TO ENJOYBring the cheese to room
fruit such as pears and Muscat grapes. middle with breadsticks, then fill the temperature, cut off the top like a lid,
shell with mild onions and potatoes, and eat with breadsticks or a spoon
and bake. Complete enjoyment. along with marmalade or quince paste.
Key SCOTLAND
★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses
Produced only here
Produced throughout the region N
Isle of Mull
Cheddar Dunlop
Anster
Doddington
GREAT
Cairnsmore
BRITAIN
Cairnsmore
Ewes Ewes Northumberland
Cairnsmore Kebbuck
Ewes
NORTHERN Allerdale
IRELAND
Cotherstone
Swaledale Goat
Wensleydale★
Buffalo Blue
Corleggy Kearney Ribblesdale Original Goat
Blue
Bellingham Blue Lancashire
Glebe Brethan
IRISH SEA Blacksticks Blue
Kileen Goat IRELAND
Aberwen Cote Hill Blue
REPUBLIC Grace Smelly Ha’Peth ENGLAND
OF IRELAND White Lincolnshire Poacher
Cheshire
Burt’s Blue Stilton ★ Stichelton
Mossfield Organic Ravens Oak Goat Shropshire Blue,
Beauvale Stilton ★ Stilton ★,
St Tola Log White Stilton ★
Remembered Hills Cheshire
WALES Innes Button Red Leicester, St. Swinthins
Cooleeney Knockdrinna Pablo Cabrito Shropshire Blue,
Beenoskee Gold, Caerphilly
Cashel Blue, Fowlers Sage Derby Stilton ★,
Lavistown Caerphilly Finn, Forest Blue
Crozier Blue Berkswell White Stilton ★
Hafod Perroche, Capra Nouveau St Eadburgha, Suffolk Gold
Saval,
Ragstone Snodsbury Goat St Oswald
Teifi Farmhouse Shipcord
Boksburg Hereford Hop,
Milleens Ardrahan Stinking Bishop
Perl Las Gold Blue Daylesford Cheddar
Coolea St Gall Extra Mature Cerwyn, Windrush
Ardsallagh Pont Gar Double Gloucester,
Durrus Pant-Ys-Gawn Cerney Canterbury
Single Gloucester ★
Golden Blue Heaven Pyramid Cobble
Gubbeen Barkham Blue
Cenarth Cheddar Laverstoke
Holy Smoked Waterloo Duddleswell,
Ciliegine Sussex Slipcote
Tunworth
WALES Wales is primarily a pastoral country boasting Cheddar Little Ann
New Forest Blue,
beautiful and varied landscapes with high mountain Old Sarum
ranges, luscious lowlands, and a mild variable climate. Vulscombe Winterdale
The grasses, wild herbs, and flowers give a unique Keltic Gold Quickes Hard Goat Lord Shaw
Curworthy Mayfield of the
character to the milk of the goats, cows, and sheep that Old Winchester, Hundreds
graze there. Cornish Blue Isle of
Norsworthy Rosary Plain
Simple cheese has been made in Wales for centuries St Endellion Wight Blue
Flower Marie,
and was an essential part of the local economy, but the Wiltshire Loaf Golden Cross
best known is Caerphilly, initially made on lowland
farms for the mining community. Yarg
The past 25 years have brought an extraordinary Cornish Beenleigh Blue
revival of on-farm cheesemaking. Welsh cheese Cheese Sharpham Rustic, Little Ryding
producers now make a variety of traditional and modern Ticklemore Goat Bath Soft
cheeses, from mild creamy goat to robust blue. Tymsboro
Cheese,
Wyfe of Bath
ENGLAND A great wedge of the geology and history of Wedmore
England can be told through its iconic cheeses, such as Rachel Pendragon
cheddar, Lancashire, and Red Leicester. However, the last Ogleshield
30 years have seen a significant increase in small-batch
English artisan cheeses, not only resulting in an increase in Exmoor Blue ★ Dorset Blue
Vinny
complex and flavorful cheeses, but also ensuring a future Capricorn Goat Woolsery Goat
for some of the rare native livestock breeds that give
cheese the subtleties, nuances, and quality so essential
Caerphilly,
for these handmade products. Cheese is a reflection of
Cheddar,
individual cheesemakers, their craft, and their passion. Cheddar
Billy’s Smokey
As a result, the cheeses of England are a reflection of the Goat,
very landscape, its people, and the animals that graze it. Francis
ENGLAND
home in 1979, using milk from her herd cheese that looks as good as it tastes. to the time of Admiral Lord Nelson,
of goats. Nowadays, she works alongside Ammonite-shaped with an attractive, who, in 1801, was sent some by his
her daughter Leonie, translating the rustic mold-covered rind, it has father as a gift. Today’s organic version
flavors of Cumbria’s lush green grazing blue-green veining from Penicillium of this cheese is packed in parchment
into delicious cheese. roqueforti mold. bearing a distinctive red wax seal.
TASTING NOTES This sweet, moist cheese TASTING NOTES Rich and creamy, this TASTING NOTES Reminiscent of a mellow
has a clean hint of almond and a blue melts in the mouth and, while it Brie, this mild cheese begins with a
texture similar to Cheshire (see p175). admirably avoids harshness, it achieves fresh hint of green onion and matures
Its maturation in cloth allows different a satisfying and spicy depth. A blue for to a creamier, more mushroomy taste.
layers of flavors to permeate. anyone who usually avoids blue.
HOW TO ENJOY Remove from the
HOW TO ENJOY Oven-baked or grilled; HOW TO ENJOY Serve on its own, in a refrigerator an hour beforehand, and
serve on a bed of baby spinach with a soup, or in a salad with Conference enjoy as part of a cheese board with
drizzle of oil and a full-bodied white. pears, mixed leaves, and dressing. Bath Oliver Biscuits and wheat beer.
ENGLAND
walls, has an amazingly goopy texture running through it, this cheese has TASTING NOTES Originating from a
and a soft, silky feel with blue clumpy hints of burnt caramel that show what traditional recipe, this characterful
streaks, yet is mellow with a sweetness an excellent ewe’s milk cheese it really cheese provides a satisfying mouthful:
of caramel and a spicy kick. is. The rough exterior has a slight firm texture, sweet, nutty, caramel
stickiness. hints, and a surprisingly tangy finale.
HOW TO ENJOY Worth seeking out, it is so
runny you need to spread it on crusty HOW TO ENJOY Use in a salad or serve on HOW TO ENJOY Its texture makes it ideal
bread and serve with a big juicy red its own, complemented with a sweet for dishes that call for grated cheese;
wine like Barolo or a pink Prosecco. Devon cider. when cooked, it forms a delicious crust.
ENGLAND Nottinghamshire ENGLAND Sharpham Barton, Devon ENGLAND Berkswell, West Midlands
Age 12 weeks Age 5-plus months Age 4–6 months
Weight and Shape 26lb (12kg), wheel Weight and Shape 61⁄2–71⁄2lb (3–3.5kg), Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg), flying
Size D. 14in (36cm), H. 5in (12cm) drum saucer
Milk Cow Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 4–5in (10–13cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) 171
Classification Blue Milk Ewe Milk Ewe
Producer Cropwell Bishop Creamery Classification Blue Classification Hard
Producer Ticklemore Cheese Producer Ram Hall Dairy Sheep
Billy’s Smokey Goat Blacksticks Blue Blue Heaven
Ford Farm, near Dorset’s magnificent Named after a group of chestnut trees Jonathan and Melissa Ravenhill’s
Jurassic Coast, makes excellent that resemble a collection of black herd of Dairy Shorthorns graze on
cheddars including the popular crunchy sticks in winter, the Blacksticks range the unimproved limestone grassland of
GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND
Coastal cheddar and Wookey Hole was originally developed for the Minchinhampton Common and provide
cheddar, aged in the Cheddar caves. restaurant trade. By popular demand, the milk to create a range of organic
But they also make a small amount it is now sold in stores. Blacksticks cheeses. This range includes this blue,
of this delicious hard goat cheese, Blue is a contemporary soft blue-veined which is made by adding Penicillium
and some of it is sent off for smoking. cheese, milder and creamier than other roqueforti to the sweet organic milk.
British blues such as Stilton.
TASTINGS NOTES Natural smoking gives TASTING NOTES The creamy, soft paste,
the rind a deep russet red color and TASTING NOTES Blacksticks Blue starts by streaked with patches of blue and
imbues the dense, flaky, yet creamy delighting the nose, then strokes the encased in a natural molded crust,
interior with a delicate smoky taste. tongue, and finally lingers delightfully is pleasantly piquant.
on the palate with a mild spicy tang.
HOW TO ENJOY The almondy and smoky HOW TO ENJOY Perfect for canapés or on
notes make it hard to match, but a light HOW TO ENJOY Pair with hot buttered a cheese board with crusty bread and a
rosé or a dry Riesling brings out the best Irish soda bread, or use in a rich blue drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Serve
in both the smoked and unsmoked kinds. sauce for grilled steak or pasta. with a Cotswold Brewery wheat beer.
ENGLAND
creamy—and it is light, although there attracts white, blue, and gray molds that hides the chewy yet creamy interior
is, of course, a reminder that it is a help ripen the creamy interior with its with its tiny uneven holes. There is a
“blue” in its nutty, slightly salty taste. blotchy blue chunks to an almost runny slight sharpness on the tongue, a hint
consistency that hints of yeast and of green grass, and a tingly acidity on
HOW TO ENJOY Stir a healthy portion distinct, spicy blue tang. the finish.
of cheese and a dollop of half-and-half
into potato soup before puréeing, HOW TO ENJOY A perfect partner would HOW TO ENJOYIn Kent, the only thing to
to produce a deliciously rich and be a tawny port or, surprisingly, Samos drink with cheese is Kentish Ale made
creamy broth. Anthemis, a Greek Muscat. from the world-famous local hops.
that reflect passion and commitment to Ripened for seven weeks, this cheese full-fat Valençay-type cheese from a
the land and the animals. The quality of develops a thin, delicate white mold rind. unique starter culture. It is coated with
the cheese is inspired by the artisan oak ash and a sea salt mix from France,
cheesemakers of France. TASTING NOTES Like the goats themselves, and shaped into a truncated pyramid.
this cheese changes character with age.
TASTINGS NOTES The orange-pink Eaten young, it has a slight nutty TASTING NOTES Luxuriously smooth, with
sticky cheese is bound with spruce flavor; however, as it ripens, this a creamy texture, it exudes a fresh,
bark, which permeates the thick, develops into a salty-sweetness, and clean taste with floral notes. It is far
almost liquid, interior. Pale ivory the paste is softer and creamier. milder than expected from a goat’s
with tiny holes, it has hints of cheese, but develops as it matures.
almonds with meaty overtones. HOW TO ENJOY Crumble the young cheese
into salads, or grill. Savor the mature HOW TO ENJOYA striking addition to the
HOW TO ENJOY Like all washed-rind cheese simply as it comes, with a glass cheese board, this black-and-white
cheeses, it goes best with an Alsace- of Sauvignon Blanc. truncated pyramid is heavenly with
style white wine or a Shropshire cider. crackers and a dry white wine.
ENGLAND Shropshire ENGLAND Cricket St. Thomas, Somerset ENGLAND South Cerney, Gloucestershire
Age 6–8 weeks Age 7 weeks Age 1 month
Weight and Shape 2lb (900g), round Weight and Shape 41⁄4oz (120g) cylinder Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), pyramid
Size D. 6in (16cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm)
174 Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Goat
Classification Semi-soft, washed Classification Soft white Classification Fresh
Producer Brock Hall Farm Producer Lubborn Creamery Producer Cerney Cheese
Cheshire Cornish Blue Cote Hill Blue
A cheese woven into the fabric In 2001, Philip and Carol Stansfield, Michael and Mary Davenport started
of English history, Cheshire was looking for a way to diversify their making cheese in October 2005, using
mentioned in the Domesday Book. dairy farm, spotted the gap in the milk produced by their herd of 70
Since the cattle were grazed on salt market for a young blue cheese that Friesian, Holstein, and Red Poll cows.
marshes, the salt content caused the could compete with imported blue They make award-winning raw milk
cheese to ripen slowly and gave it a cheese. This mild blue was the result, cheeses with an individuality that
crumbly texture. It is available in white, and the Stansfields have since won is unique to Cote Hill Farm.
but is usually colored with annatto. many awards.
TASTINGS NOTES Under the gray and white
ENGLAND
TASTING NOTES Dense, slightly dry with TASTING NOTES With a creamy texture molds, the interior is dense and creamy
a very fine crumbly texture and a mild like Gorgonzola and thick streaks of with horizontal blue streaks. It is mild
fresh acidity, Cheshire has a savory, blue, it is surprisingly mild and sweet, and spicy with a subtle crescendo of
salty tang that lingers in the mouth. becoming spicier and tangier as it ages. cocoa, peppery dandelions, and salt.
HOW TO ENJOY Grill it (as in traditional HOW TO ENJOY Perfect for pepping up— HOW TO ENJOY Mary’s friends have
Welsh rarebit), bake it, crumble it in but not overpowering—risotto, sauces, persuaded her to put her recipe for
soups and salads, or marry it with a appetizers, and more; it goes beautifully Cote Hill Blue and green onion scones
glass of real ale. with fruit and a glass of Champagne. on the website—they are excellent.
on the banks of the Tees River—Joan 17th-century cheese and is one of creamery alongside the hugely
Cross is the only remaining producer of six varieties produced by Rachel successful and very elegant Daylesford
this cheese, thanks to a recipe handed Stephens at Stockbeare Farm in Organic Farmshop. Now one of a range
down to her by her mother. Devon, using milk from the farm’s of award-winning organic cheeses.
herd of Friesian cows.
TASTING NOTES Cotherstone’s interior is TASTING NOTES Hard yet chewy, this has
pale yellow, moist, crumbly, and fatty, TASTING NOTES The texture is dense and a rich full-bodied tang that mellows out
and it develops a buttery richness of chewy, with a lovely buttery feel when to a savory lingering finish hinting of
flavor that is edged with a fruity tang young, and it matures into a more green grass and toffee.
on the finish. tangy, peppery flavor.
HOW TO ENJOY Versatile in cooking, but it
HOW TO ENJOY The signature tanginess HOW TO ENJOY It is ideal on a cheese also stands proud on any cheese board
goes well with a variety of wines, but in board or served with an Alsatian paired with a not-too-tannic red wine,
the Dales they favor a glass of dark Gewürztraminer, which will complement such as a Pinot Noir or Merlot.
stout as the requisite accompaniment. Curwothy’s young, buttery flavor.
ENGLAND Teesdale, County Durham ENGLAND Okehampton, Devon ENGLAND Daylesford, Gloucestershire
Age 1–3 months Age 2–6 months Age 9–18 months
Weight and Shape 11lb 2oz–61⁄2lb Weight and Shape 1–5lb (450g–2.2kg), Weight and Shape 20lb (9kg), truckle
(500g–3kg), millstone drum Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 16in (40cm)
176 Size D. 3–81⁄2in (7.5–22cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size D. 31⁄2–8in (9–20cm), H. 21⁄2–4in Milk Cow
Milk Cow (6–10cm)
Classification Hard
Classification Hard Milk Cow
Producer Daylesford Organic Creamery
Producer Cotherstone Cheese Classification Hard
Producer Curworthy Cheese
Doddington Dorset Blue Vinny Double Gloucester
Made at Doddington Dairy, situated at Once upon a time, every self-respecting This iconic cheese can be traced back to
the bottom of the Cheviot Hills, this Dorset farmhouse made this cheese— the 15th century, when Severn Vale
cheese is described by its makers Neill an excellent use for milk left over from farmers made it from famed Cotswold
and Jackie Maxwell as lying somewhere buttermaking. But with changing sheep. Gradually, milk from Gloucester
between a Leicester and cheddar. They times, the recipe itself nearly died out, cows replaced it. Today, it is made
have been making ice cream and until Mike Davies revived it in the throughout England, but not
cheeses since 1990 after learning their 1980s. He makes it with a combination necessarily with Gloucester milk.
craft in the Netherlands and France. of skim and whole milk, so it is more
moist than the original. TASTING NOTESWith a leathery rind, this
ENGLAND
TASTING NOTES An attractive brick-red hard cheese has a strong, savory, and
rind and a hard, compact, slightly dry TASTING NOTES As it is unpasteurized and mellow flavor. It is made with whole
texture, with a rich, sweet caramel the butterfat content of the milk varies milk and colored deep orange with
taste and a long-lasting nuttiness. according to the time of year, this cheese annatto seeds.
is sometimes crumbly and sometimes
HOW TO ENJOY Serve with fruit and nuts, creamy; nutty but not too strong. HOW TO ENJOY Eat plain, cook with it, or
wrapped in warm bread, or grated over watch it being rolled down Coopers Hill
salads or pasta, along with a medium- HOW TO ENJOY Try with traditional in Gloucester in May, as per tradition.
bodied red wine such as a Merlot. Dorset knob biscuits and a sweet cider.
ENGLAND Wooler, Northumberland ENGLAND Stock Gaylard, Dorset ENGLAND All over
Age 12–14 months Age 12–14 weeks Age Around 4 months
Weight and Shape 11lb and 22lb, drum Weight and Shape 13lb (6kg), round Weight and Shape Various, wheel
Size D. 9in (23cm) and 121⁄2in (32cm), Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 12in (30cm) Size Various
H. 41⁄2in (11cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow
177
Milk Cow Classification Blue Classification Hard
Classification Hard Producer Mike Davies, Woodbridge Farm Producer Various
Producer Doddington Dairy
Cheddar
The story of cheddar can be traced back to the Romans, who
introduced hard cheeses to Britain. It was the feudal system,
however, that led to the development of the large, buxom
traditional British cheeses because it placed the majority of
land in the hands of a few great landowners who could afford
to make very large cheeses.
Yet it was not until the 16th century TASTING NOTES To taste an
that this hard cheese made in the unpasteurized, clothbound cheddar,
Mendip Hills near the Cheddar Gorge made from the milk of cows whose diet
in Somerset became known as is fresh grass, clover, buttercups, and
cheddar. The lush grazing, rolling hills, daisies, is to taste a piece of England.
and natural caves offered the ideal The bite is firm but yielding like
conditions for large herds and meant chocolate, the aroma earthy and
the cheesemakers tended to make slightly savory. The flavor differs from
huge 60–120lb (27–54kg) cheeses farm to farm, but there is always the
requiring 2–3 years to mature. rich sweetness of the milk, a classic
acidity, sometimes nutty, often with an
GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND
ENGLAND
179
Natural Beauty. The Hardy family local cow, sheep, goat, and buffalo over the Wye Valley toward the Black
started High Weald Dairy in 1988, in milk. Exmoor Blue is the only one Mountains. As with French double-
the beautiful surroundings of Ashdown with PGI status, which means that cream cheeses, ten percent additional
Forest; Duddleswell has echoes of it is made according to strict guidelines, cream is added to the milk before
traditional Dales cheeses, with all the including using local unpasteurized the cheesemaking begins, giving it a
nutritional benefits of ewe’s milk. Jersey milk. creamy richness.
TASTING NOTES Smooth and creamy with TASTING NOTES Balance is the key to this TASTING NOTES Inside its creamy-white
a sweet, nutty release, Duddleswell is semi-soft blue veined cheese, where the rind lies a soft but firm cheese with a
a hard-pressed cheese with a thin and zing of the blue still allows other subtle, creamy acidity, a salty-sweet mingling,
leathery natural rind. mildly salty flavors to reach the palate. and a hint of mushrooms.
HOW TO ENJOY Feature as part of a cheese HOW TO ENJOY Partake with simple HOW TO ENJOY Bake with it, or savor the
board, or instead of pecorino; great appreciation on the cheese board and, if extra richness set off to perfection by
with pasta or on top of a salad. you can find it, Somerset cider brandy. the plainest of crackers.
ENGLAND Horsted Keynes, West Sussex ENGLAND Taunton, Somerset ENGLAND Dorstone, Herefordshire
Age 3–4 months Age 4–5 weeks Age 3 weeks
Weight and Shape 7lb (3.2kg), truckle Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz (500g) and Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g), round
Size D. 91⁄2in (24cm), H. 23⁄4–31⁄4in (7–8cm) 23⁄4lb (1.25kg), flat round Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 2in (5cm)
180 Milk Ewe Size D. 43⁄4in (12cm) and 7in (18cm), Milk Cow
H. 21⁄2in (6cm)
Classification Hard Classification Soft white
Milk Cow
Producer High Weald Dairy Producer Neal’s Yard Creamery
Classification Blue
Producer Exmoor Blue Cheese Company
Flower Marie Fort Grey Fowlers Forest Blue
Kevin and Alison Blunt produce this Made in the parish of Torteval on Fowlers can lay claim to the title of
unique ewe’s milk cheese, with its soft Guernsey, a small, ruggedly beautiful oldest cheesemaking family business in
rind and moist interior that is often island in the English Channel, Fort England, the keepers of cheesemaking
compared to the feel of melting ice Grey is named after a local Georgian secrets whispered down through the
cream. They have been making cheese coastal defense. Fenella Maddison was generations. They are also proud of the
on the farm since 1989; this one lives inspired first by Rick Stein’s Food high-calcium water from the 1,000-ft
up to its name—demure-looking, but Heroes and then by the legendary Chris (300-m) borehole, which adds to the
with a suggestion of naughtiness, Ashby, who invented the original recipe. cheese’s flavor and texture.
captured in a lemony freshness.
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TASTING NOTES Small round with TASTING NOTES This is a handcrafted
TASTING NOTES: The sweetness of the splotches of blue-gray on the outside traditional blue cheese, which matures
ewe’s milk lends a caramel subtlety and blue streaks through the rich, in humidity-controlled cellars. Soft-
that is gentle and moist, while the rind buttery Guernsey yellow interior. Mild rinded, firm, and creamy, it is lightly
has a mushroomy taste and aroma. and spicy with a sea-breeze salty edge. veined, salty, and mildly tangy.
HOW TO ENJOY Serve it spread on a chunk HOW TO ENJOY Tastes best when paired HOW TO ENJOY Melt together with
of fresh, soft crusty bread, accompanied with Brittany cider or glass of sweet Warwickshire ale and Worcestershire
by a glass of fine port. Monbazillac wine. sauce, and spread on toast.
ENGLAND Whitesmith, East Sussex ENGLAND Channel Islands ENGLAND Earlswood, West Midlands
Age 4–5 weeks Age 5–8 weeks Age 3 months
Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), square Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g), round Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg), cylinder
Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 3in (7cm), H. 3⁄4in (2cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 6in (15cm)
Milk Ewe Milk Cow, Guernsey Milk Cow
181
Classification Soft white Classification Blue Classification Blue
Producer Golden Cross Cheese Company Producer Torteval Cheese Producer Fowlers of Earlswood
Francis Golden Cross Hereford Hop
Working for James Aldridge, affineur Kevin and Alison Blunt’s herd of 300 The lightly roasted hops give this
and washed rind legend, James McCall goats grazes outside all summer and cheese its instantly recognizable
always knew he wanted to follow in his enjoys a year-round diet of hay, which appearance, but it is the skill of the
GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND
footsteps. After a decade or so of making contributes to continuing success at the almost-legendary Charles Martell that
cheese, he has returned to his passion, British Cheese Awards. From their milk ensures the quality under the surface.
washing and maturing cheeses including comes a Sainte-Maure-style cheese, each He has also helped to preserve rare-
this one made by Lyburn Cheese. log lightly dusted with charcoal and breed Gloucester cattle and to revive
matured to a creamy, full flavor. interest in perry, which is like cider, but
TASTING NOTES Pale pink, sticky rind, made with local pears.
dense buttery texture and pungent, TASTING NOTES Sweeter in taste than you
barnyardy, savory notes with a brilliant might expect, it is soft and delicate, and TASTING NOTES Mellow sweetness is
balance of acidity and richness from the redolent of those grassy pastures that thrown into relief by the aroma and
milk. It won Best New Cheese in 2012, the goats enjoy. taste of the cheese’s coat of hops, like a
proving that James has the touch. hint of beer permeating through.
HOW TO ENJOY Complemented by celery
HOW TO ENJOY Pair with a dry Riesling, on a cheese board, it is also an excellent HOW TO ENJOY A delightful addition to
local cider, or Trappist style beer, or eat cheese for all sorts of dishes, thanks to the cheese board, particularly with a
with local specialties like Dorset knobs. its gorgeous texture. dollop of homemade apple chutney.
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Gloucester slowly smoked over oak or almost mousselike, it melts in the TASTING NOTES A thick gray molded rind
beech chips, so the woody, smoky mouth, releasing its lemony freshness hides a mellow, nutty paste, which is
aromas are gradually absorbed by the with hints of walnuts and white wine smooth in texture with a slight spicy
cheese, producing a flavor reminiscent on the finish. Available with ash, pink bite from the blue.
of smoked bacon in a creamy onion sauce. peppercorns, or chopped nuts.
HOW TO ENJOY Simply enjoy it as it comes
HOW TO ENJOY Smoked cheeses are best HOW TO ENJOY Savor on its own, spread or as part of a cheese board, or layer it
grilled on toast, generously grated on a on soft, warm bread, or grill and serve with slices of fresh pear for rather
baked potato, or served with a cool beer. with a Sauvignon Blanc or Viognier. special party canapés.
Down. It is made from the milk week with local cider until it is ripe. the latter being a fast-ripening and
obtained from a few local farms, The resulting sticky terra-cotta rind high-acid recent creation. Its history
carefully selected for its quality. should not be ignored—it is part of the goes back as far as the 13th century,
pleasure of the eating. when every farmer’s wife made use of
TASTINGS NOTES It has an attractive surplus milk.
rustic blue-gray rind, and the deep TASTING NOTES Prepare to be deluged by
yellow interior is buttery with layers of delicious notes, varying from TASTING NOTES Made by combining the
scattered blue blotches. Also has a bacon to yeast, with distinct nuttiness curd from three consecutive days, it has
spicy tang with salty sea spray finish. in between and a barnyardy finish. a mottled appearance, a soft, vaguely
lumpy feel in the mouth, and a buttery
HOW TO ENJOY With a rich ruby porter- HOW TO ENJOY Make a vegetarian version richness balanced by an oniony tang.
style beer with lots of hops and plenty of a Cornish pasty with apple, onion,
of fruit and toffee from Whitewater, and sage wrapped around Keltic Gold, HOW TO ENJOY Its meltingly smooth, even
Northern Ireland’s largest or melt it with a little freshly grated consistency makes it ideal for anything
microbrewery. nutmeg for an alpine-style fondue. from cheese on toast to savory pies.
ENGLAND County Down ENGLAND Bude, Cornwall ENGLAND Around the Forest of Bowland,
Age 4–6 weeks Age 4–6 weeks Lancashire
Weight and Shape 11⁄4lb (550g), round Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), drum Age 4–12 weeks for “creamy”; 12-plus
weeks for “tasty”
Size D. 4in (11cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 3in (7.5cm)
184 Weight and Shape 411⁄2lb (19kg), cylinder
Milk Cow Milk Cow
Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 10in (25cm)
Classification Blue Classification Semi-soft
Milk Cow
Producer Kearney Cheese Company Producer Whalesborough Farm Foods
Classification Hard
Producer Various
Laverstoke Ciliegine Lincolnshire Poacher Little Ann
Laverstoke Park Farm, an organic farm Once a traditional folk song, it is now Made by Paul Thomas, with a
in Hampshire, was founded by former also a cheese invented by Simon Jones fascination and knowledge of
Formula One World Champion Jody and made with his brother Tim. It was biochemistry, and partner and fellow
Scheckter, whose aim is to become originally a brilliant solution to the cheesemaker Hannah Roche, who
self-sustaining and self-sufficient. abundant supplies of spring milk from started Thimble Cheesemakers in
Using milk from over 1,500 water their herd of Holsteins, and has become 2013. Little Ann was their first, soon to
buffalo, they make yogurt, ice cream, a much-loved modern British cheese. It be followed by others using raw milk.
and cheeses from blue to Brie. was Supreme Champion at the British
Cheese Awards in 1996. TASTING NOTES Cabecou style, with a
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TASTINGS NOTES Bright white and lovely, creamy Geotricum rind and an
glistening, these marble-sized balls of TASTING NOTES This is similar to an almost liquid interior that is yeasty
mozzarella have a soft, chicken-breast excellent mature cheddar-style cheese. with hints of fermenting fruit, finishing
texture. Distinct but delicious earthy Hard and chewy, lively and complex, it with delicate, creamy notes.
notes are characteristics. offers a full taste experience.
HOW TO ENJOY This is best served grilled
HOW TO ENJOY Served as canapés or in HOW TO ENJOY Eat it plain, grate it, melt on sourdough bread drizzled with olive
a salad with sundried tomatoes, basil, it, or bake it with onions, bacon, and oil and paired with a Sancerre or
olive oil, and balsamic vinegar. potatoes for a fine gratin. Sancerre Rosé.
ENGLAND Overton, Hampshire ENGLAND Alford, Lincolnshire ENGLAND West Worldham, Hampshire
Age a few days Age 12–24 months Age 10 days
Weight and Shape 1⁄4oz (10g), ball Weight and Shape 44lb (20kg), cylinder Weight and Shape 11⁄2oz (40g), cylinder
Size D. 3⁄4 in (2cm) Size D. 9in (23cm) H. 12in (30cm) Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 1⁄2in (1.5cm)
Milk Buffalo Milk Cow Milk Cow
185
Classification Fresh Classification Hard Classification Aged fresh
Producer Laverstoke Park Farm Producer FW Read & Sons Ltd. Producer Thimble Cheesemakers
Little Ryding Lord of the Hundreds Mayfield
Previously made by Mary Holbrook Radiating out from the hamlet of Arthur Alsop and Nicholas Walker
of Timsbury, it is now made by the Stonegate are the slopes of the Rother started in 2008, using milk from the
Bartlett brothers, to whom she sold her Valley, a landscape that leaves hints surrounding farms, making a wide
GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND
recipe after deciding to concentrate on of itself within the subtleties of this range of cheeses, from Lord London,
goat cheese. In 2004, using milk from cheese. Cheesemaker Cliff Dyball gave a soft cheese created to celebrate the
their own flock, James and David’s first up a career in London as an insurance 2012 Olympics, to the small Sussex Blue,
cheese went on sale, to great applause. broker for rewards of a different kind. to the elegant, Swiss-style Mayfield.
TASTING NOTES Handmade with a TASTING NOTES It has a rustic reddish TASTINGS NOTES The sunshine yellow
Camembert-like rind and a creamy brown rind, dusted with gray, and a interior has large, oval holes and a
middle, this is like traditional British compactly satisfying density within. supple texture. The aroma starts with
Sunday lunch on a plate, with flavors of Think pecorino; expect a dry, grainy fermenting fruit and white wine. There
burnt onions and roast lamb, and yet a texture, with mild nuttiness alongside is a taste of wild honey, with a touch of
caramel sweetness, too. a deep burnt-caramel sweetness. nutmeg and an intensely fruity tang.
HOW TO ENJOY: Serve simply with thin HOW TO ENJOY The maker recommends HOW TO ENJOY Pair with ciders to
crackers and a side order of homemade quince jelly as the perfect complement. complement the fruity flavor, or serve
caramelized onion chutney. with a light beer and apple chutney.
ENGLAND North Wootton, Somerset ENGLAND Stonegate, East Sussex ENGLAND Sussex
Age 3–8 weeks Age 6–8 months Age 5–7 months
Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), round Weight and Shape 51⁄2–101⁄2lb Weight and Shape 35lb (16kg)–40lb
Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 11⁄4in (3cm) (2.5–4.8kg), round (18kg), boulder
186 Milk Ewe Size D. 7–91⁄2in (18–24cm), H. 3–41⁄2in Size D. 162 (40cm), H. 4in (12cm)
(7.5–11cm) Milk Cow
Classification Soft white
Milk Ewe Classification Hard
Producer Wootton Organic Dairy
Classification Hard Producer Alsop & Walker
Producer The Traditional Cheese Dairy
New Forest Blue Norsworthy Northumberland
Gwyn and Ness Williams use pure Originally a naval engineer from It was a book about sheep and their
Ayrshire milk from a herd grazed on Durham, Dave Johnson now has his cheeses that first sent Mark Robertson
the Hampshire Downs; it is, they say, own herd of 180 goats in Devon and down the artisan cheese road in 1984,
“the best milk we have ever tasted, makes a series of hard and soft cheeses. and he received so much support and
and fantastic for cheesemaking.” The Based on a Dutch recipe, Norsworthy is encouragement that he ended up
recipes for their cheeses—including made from unpasteurized milk using diversifying into goats and cows. Over
this excellent example—are designed to the Dutch washed-curd method. the years, he has taken inspiration
bring out the milk’s charmingly from various sources.
idiosyncratic characteristics. TASTING NOTES Its pleasant and mild
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taste deepens and lingers. Matured for TASTING NOTES A Gouda-style cheese, it is
TASTING NOTES It has a light blue touch, a month, it develops a fine crusty brown smooth, moist, mild, and creamy, with
with an attractive sharpness from that rind and a white paste within that hints of green grass and red onions.
extra blue tang. becomes more crumbly as it ripens. Also available in flavored versions.
HOW TO ENJOY Pep up risotto, crumble HOW TO ENJOY Delicious served with a HOW TO ENJOY The perfect choice for
over salads, or savor the full taste of chunk of fresh crusty country-style making traditional Northumberland
the Ayrshire milk by serving this bread, accompanied by an English pale pan haggerty, with its layers of potato,
cheese as simply as possible. ale or a Merlot. onion, and grated cheese.
hours using his Jersey milk in various velvet texture. Old Sarum comes in the creamy, but with “subtle nuttiness”—to
“experiments.” Thus Jersey Shield was form of a tall, elegant cylinder with a satisfy customers who were looking for
born. Bill Oglethorpe at Neal’s Yard natural gray-brown rind, a moist a fuller-flavored cheese. It is also
Dairy then began another round of interior, and blue-gray veins amid a known as Old Smales.
experiments, using the washed-rind yellow paste.
technique to arrive at this cheese. TASTING NOTES Old Winchester’s hard,
TASTING NOTES In the tradition of the smooth crust protects the hard, almost
TASTING NOTES Beneath the orange rind Italian soft blue cheese dolcelatte, this brittle warm yellow interior, with its
is a yellow heart with an aroma as is a sweet-tasting blue that melts in distinctive nuttiness and lasting
robust as its flavor—onion soup and the mouth like rich, spicy butter. salty-sweet finale.
yeasty bread. A cheese to get to know.
HOW TO ENJOY As an indulgent lunchtime HOW TO ENJOY Use as either a table
HOW TO ENJOY Think of raclette; this is an treat, served in a crusty baguette with cheese or a vegetarian alternative to
excellent West Country alternative that crispy, preferably heritage-breed bacon. hard Italian cheeses.
melts like a dream.
ENGLAND North Cadbury, Somerset ENGLAND Redlynch, Wiltshire ENGLAND Landford, Wiltshire
Age 4–5 months Age 6–8 weeks Age 16 months
Weight and Shape 121⁄4lb (5kg) wheel Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), tall Weight and Shape 9lb (4kg), boulder
Size D. 121⁄2in (32cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) cylinder Size D. 9in (23cm), H. 3in (7.5cm)
188 Milk Cow Size D. 63⁄4in (17cm), H. 41⁄2in (11cm) Milk Cow
Classification Semi-soft Milk Cow Classification Hard
Producer JA & E Montgomery Classification Blue Producer Lyburn Farmhouse Cheesemakers
Producer Loosehanger Cheeses
Pablo Cabrito Pendragon Perroche
The Hamptons started making Philip Rainbow, one of a handful of These elegant individual cylinders,
artisanal cheeses in 2008, using milk producers in Britain to use buffalo’s available plain or rolled in fresh herbs,
from their pure Saanen goats. Their milk, makes this firm cheddar-style use milk from a farm near Ashleworth
passion and commitment to their work cheese. Pendragon takes its name in Gloucestershire. Although now
and the quality of their milk results in from Somerset’s strong historical produced by Charlie Westhead, Haydn
outstanding cheeses such as this one. connections with the Arthurian myths. Roberts, and the team, the cheese’s
It is also available lightly smoked. name derives from the creamery’s
TASTING NOTES The pale gray, soft, previous managers, Perry James and
wrinkly rind smells mildly goaty TASTING NOTES The hard, waxy yellow Beatrice Garroche.
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like a classic French chèvre, while paste has a mild sweetness, and its
the interior is smooth, almost velvety understated character appeals to those TASTING NOTES Gently does it with this
as it melts in the mouth. It yields who like a clean flavor. Being made process, resulting in a light, mousse-
nutty notes and gentle fresh acidity with buffalo milk means that the like texture with a subtle goaty taste
on the finish. cheese is admirably low in cholesterol. and clean, almondy finish.
HOW TO ENJOY Perfect on a cheese board, HOW TO ENJOY Assemble a sophisticated HOW TO ENJOY Chef Delia Smith makes a
accompanied with a rosé or cider from cheese board, using Pendragon to give point of recommending Perroche as a
Shropshire’s own Wroxeter Vineyard. variety among cow and goat cheeses. beautifully mild cheese that grills well.
wife, Prue, built the dairy where their milk. It looks distinguished, with its fine Sevenoaks in Kent, and it was the
daughter Mary continues to produce orange leathery rind, dusted with white, nearby Ragstone Ridge that lent its
cheese, including this recently created gray, and even yellow molds—it is the name to this cheese.
cheddar-style goat cheese. most popular cheese he produces.
TASTING NOTES The wrinkly rind will call
TASTING NOTES Firm, almost chewy, it has TASTING NOTES Rachel is sweet, curvy, to mind a Brie, and it is certainly a
a subtle goaty taste and an aromatic, and slightly nutty, with a whole raft lovely-looking product. Creamy yet
almondy tang with a fresh acidity. This of taste experiences: rich and tangy, light on the tongue, it has a hint of
is an excellent alternative for people meaty and savory, but with a citric mushroomy notes and a lemony tang.
with an allergy to cow’s milk. sharpness and a sweet nutty finish.
HOW TO ENJOY This cheese melts
HOW TO ENJOY This cooks superbly. Try HOW TO ENJOY Savor on its own or in a superbly. Alternatively, bake in the
wilting spinach or similar greens in a salad, paired with a glass of Sancerre oven, drizzled with a little olive oil,
little water, add with the cheese to a or a single-varietal cider. until it is at melting point. Serve warm
roux of rice flour and milk, then purée. and oozy, on a bed of mixed leaves.
ENGLAND Newton St. Cyres, Devon ENGLAND Pylle, Somerset ENGLAND Dorstone, Herefordshire
Age 6–10 months Age 3 months Age 3 weeks
Weight and Shape 53lb (24kg), truckle Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), round Weight and Shape 101⁄2oz (300g), log
Size D. 14in (35.5cm), H. 12in (30cm) Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 23⁄4in (7cm) Size L. 6in (15cm), H. 2in (5cm)
190 Milk Goat Milk Goat Milk Goat
Classification Hard Classification Semi-soft Classification Soft white
Producer Quickes Traditional Producer White Lake Cheeses Producer Neal’s Yard Creamery
Ravens Oak Wood Red Leicester Remembered Hills
Ravens Oak Wood is made at Named after the city of Leicester, this Made in batches of only four cheeses
Ravens Oak Dairy, which is now traditional English cheese is made in using milk from the Earl of Plymouth’s
owned by Butlers Farmhouse Cheeses. a similar way to cheddar, but colored Oakly Park Estate, it beat off 84
It is still made by hand at the dairy, with annatto. Prolific by the late British blues to win Best Blue at the
however, in small batches to ensure eighteenth century, its quality was 2013 British Cheese Awards. It takes
that it retains its smooth, soft texture partly ascribed to the county’s excellent its name from a line in the poem
and farmhouse character. grazing. Farmhouse production in the “Shropshire Lad” about the blue
county died out from the mid-1900s remembered hills at Shropshire.
TASTING NOTES Smooth and soft with until 2005, when the Leicestershire
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a white mold rind, it has a subtle Handmade Cheese Company revived it. TASTINGS NOTES It takes 3 months to
almond flavor when young. This mature on beech racks and develop its
develops into a deeper goaty tang TASTING NOTES The distinctive tangerine- sticky blue-black rind, thick blue internal
as the cheese ripens. colored interior is dense, waxy, and streaks, smooth texture, and lively spicy
smooth, with a sweet, mellow nuttiness tang with cocoa notes to finish.
HOW TO ENJOY Try baking it until creamy that strengthens as it matures.
on the outside but still cool on the HOW TO ENJOY Drizzle it with honey and
inside. If you want the full hit of goat, HOW TO ENJOY Serve on toast, in tarts, or serve with Mahorall Farm Cider and
leave to ripen until gooey. use it to add color to a cheese board. bread from the Ludlow Food Centre deli.
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GRADING Before being released to
the retailers, each batch is graded. An
“iron” is used to bore into the cheese and
extract a plug. By visual inspection and
by smell, the grader can determine
193
whether the cheese is up to snuff.
Quarter cylinder
cheese, and niece Iona now carries on they became more successful, however, have health-giving properties, to the
their work. It is made in the Yorkshire the pair made the pragmatic decision fresh curd began in the 17th century.
Dales’ Ribble Valley, where the natural to buy in milk from a herd of pedigree Today, most are factory-made, but the
pastures and high rainfall provide Saanen goats. Their fresh cheese West Midlands family producer,
excellent grazing for the goats. Rosary Plain is a consistent award- Fowlers of Earlswood, still makes Sage
winner at the British Cheese Awards. Derby traditionally.
TASTING NOTES With a firm yet supple
texture like young Gouda, it is TASTING NOTES Moist, fresh, meltingly TASTING NOTES Softer than Cheddar, this
delicately goaty and has chicory and soft, and delightfully aromatic, it also pale yellow cheese has a melted butter
almond flavors. comes in flavored garlic and herb, taste and a delightful, but subtle,
pepper-coated, and ash-coated versions. herbal flavor from the sage.
HOW TO ENJOY Serve on its own, grate
it, melt it, or, above all, bake it with HOW TO ENJOY Use as a table cheese, for HOW TO ENJOY With its ribbon of herbs,
figs. Works well with an oaky melting or spreading, or add it at the this makes a colorful and distinctive
Chardonnay or Merlot. last moment to a fluffy omelet. addition to the cheese board.
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here. As the cheese ripens, the paste TASTING NOTES The smooth, supple paste
TASTING NOTES This is at its best when it softens to a wonderful creamy becomes almost runny and has a full,
is soft in the middle and the flavor consistency with a full-bodied flavor, rich meaty flavor, with onion notes that
becomes more pungent and meaty. fresh tanginess, and hint of mushroom. become stronger as it ages.
HOW TO ENJOY Delicious warmed until HOW TO ENJOY Leave loosely wrapped for HOW TO ENJOY Serve as it comes with a
the inside starts to run, or on the a couple of hours, before serving as part good full-bodied red wine and dried
cheese board with cider, a light ale, of a cheese board. It is especially good fruit. Or put a few dollops in among
or a full-bodied red wine. with a spicy white wine. thinly sliced potatoes, and bake.
from mostly Brown Swiss cows to milk from the Jersey herd. The curd is farmers, decided to start cheesemaking
make double cream and a fresh soft placed, unpressed, in a colander to give in 2006, local cheese lovers greeted them
cheese called St. Swithin’s after the it its unusual shape and knobby rind. enthusiastically. Each cheese is named
local church. It is sold either plain, Also available with chives and garlic. after a river meadow on the farm.
or topped with lavender or apricot.
TASTING NOTES Deep yellow with a TASTING NOTES The curds and whey are
TASTINGS NOTES This cheese, tied up natural mold-coated rind, this moist scalded, reminiscent of French tommes,
with lilac raffia, has a refreshing cheese has a wonderful creamy texture giving the cheese a close texture and a
citrusy tang with mild, creamy back and a buttery sweet flavor balanced by “long” creamy and nutty flavor that
notes as it melts in the mouth. a fresh, gentle acidity. develops a tangy acidity as it matures.
HOW TO ENJOY Spread on soft ciabatta HOW TO ENJOY Serve on its own or HOW TO ENJOY Its creamy texture makes
and serve with apple cider, wheat beer, crumbled over warm asparagus or into it a perfect snacking cheese, along with
or a luscious Oloroso sherry, which a roast beet and pea shoot salad, with a crackers, celery, apple, or grapes, but
brings out the lavender aroma. glass of cider or fruity red wine. Shipcord also melts and grills well.
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equally creamy in texture, its streaks least one Gloucester cow.
of blue stand out against the orange TASTINGS NOTES It has a sticky, gray-blue
interior. There is a hint of caramel TASTING NOTES Firm but yielding, it has a crust, chunky blue streaks, and smoky
sweetness behind its spicy blue tang. mild, buttery flavor, with subtle hints notes wafting through a crumbly
of vanilla and nuts, and a gentle acidity. interior that is both sweet and nutty
HOW TO ENJOY Spectacular crumbled into with a spicy tang on the finish.
salads or melted in soups, this cheese is HOW TO ENJOY Best enjoyed with apples
equally at home on a cheese board, with or pears and pickled walnuts, served A full-bodied red wine
HOW TO ENJOY
an accompanying port or brown ale. with perry, a traditional pear cider. would complement this cheese perfectly.
Double Gloucester. It is now made inspiration for this cheese. After his washed, Stinking Bishop was created
by leading cheese wholesalers Cheese success with Daylesford Cheddar, he by Charles Martell in 1972. It has
Cellar, who bought the recipe and decided to set up his own dairy in 2006 become one of the best-known and
the dairy from the Ansteys. and make a blue. Based on the Stilton most-loved of English washed-rind
recipe, it cannot be called Stilton cheeses, and even featured in one of
TASTING NOTES Dense with a smooth because it is made with raw milk. Nick Park’s Wallace and Gromit films.
creaminess, it has a distinct almondy
nuttiness rather than the more distinct TASTING NOTES Creamy white with bold TASTING NOTES Rich and meaty, with a
goaty taste you find in softer goat’s blue streaks, Stichelton is complex and hint of sweetness, it is milder than the
cheeses, with hints of chicory and wild delicious, and moves from a fruitiness smell suggests. The supple paste and
herbs on the finish. to a spicy sweetness, all carried within sticky golden rind are encapsulated in
a creamy texture. a thin band of wood.
HOW TO ENJOY Serve on crackers with
some homemade pickle relish, or grate HOW TO ENJOY Serve on the cheese board, HOW TO ENJOY Ideal on the cheese board
over salads and soups. with crackers and a glass of port. with pears and a robust red wine.
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garlic and herb, and peppercorn. with traces of salty brine and a mild
TASTING NOTES The high butterfat goat flavor. It has a natural brown rind,
content in the Guernsey milk comes TASTING NOTES Very moist, almost or is waxed at three days old for
through in the mild sweetness and mousselike, it has a lemony fresh tang a slightly softer texture.
deep yellow color, while the texture that finishes with sweet notes.
is firm with a few small holes. HOW TO ENJOY Choose for subtle flavor
HOW TO ENJOY Best spread on bread or in soufflés and tarts, or serve on plain
HOW TO ENJOY Perfect with oatcakes and biscuits, but also a good addition to a crackers with a light ale.
an apple, or melted under the broiler. baked potato or pasta.
ENGLAND Coddenham, Suffolk ENGLAND Horsted Keynes, West Sussex ENGLAND Gallowfields, North Yorkshire
Age 10–12 weeks Age 10 days Age 6–12 weeks
Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg), wheel Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g), button Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2.5kg), round
Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 21⁄4in (5.5cm), H. 13⁄4in (4.5cm) Size D. 61⁄2in (16cm), H. 31⁄4in (8cm)
Milk Cow Milk Ewe Milk Goat
199
Classification Semi-soft Classification Fresh Classification Hard
Producer Suffolk Farmhouse Cheeses Producer High Weald Dairy Producer Swaledale Cheese Company
Yarg Cornish Cheese A CLOSER LOOK
Each cheese is a labor of love, made
Yarg Cornish Cheese, one of the most attractive and unusual by hand in open vats by a team of
cheeses created since the revival of British artisan cheeses started dedicated cheesemakers. Every nettle
leaf that makes up the unique rind is
in the early 1980s, was first made by Alan and Jenny Gray in individually picked—no stems or
Withiel on the edge of Bodmin Moor. Trying to think of a good stalks, no holes or debris, and not a
local name, they eventually decided that Yarg, Gray spelled sun-scorch mark in sight.
backward, sounded Cornish and was uniquely theirs.
careers—Catherine to work on the ale. It also goes well with almost any Nettles are hand-picked locally in May when
cheese and Ben to work with the wine, especially fruity whites or even they don’t sting, and are frozen to use later in the
dairy herd. Since then, Ben has a dessert wine. year.
invested an enormous amount of
time and resources to creating the
best possible soil and diversity of
pastures, resulting in exceptional-
quality milk from their mixed herd of
Ayrshire, Jersey, and Friesian cows.
They are an amazing, dedicated team
and now make 200 tons of cheese a
year in their highly sustainable
custom dairy.
Mild, crumbly,
with a subtle The combination of nettles and
THE RIND As the cheese ripens, a fine
flavor from molds speeds up the breakdown of
gray mist appears around the jagged
the nettles. the curd near the rind.
edges of the green leaves, making a very
attractive, eye-catching surface.
ENGLAND
201
Interior
Ticklemore Goat Tunworth Tymsboro
Originally conceived by Robin Congdon Stacey Hedges uses milk from a local Former archaeologist Mary Holbrook
of Ticklemore Cheeses, this is now herd of Holstein cows to make this developed this cheese, using milk from
made by award-winning cheesemaker highly acclaimed, Camembert-style her own herd, which grazes the Mendip
GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND
Debbie Mumford, a former colleague, cheese—twice awarded Supreme Hills. Following tradition, the goats are
on the beautiful thousand-year-old Champion at the British Cheese milked only from spring to fall, their
Sharpham Estate farm, alongside the Awards. Her recent creation, period of outdoor grazing. A coating of
estate’s cow’s milk cheeses. Winslade, is also proving a winner. charcoal and salt gives this cheese an
attractive gray-white rind.
TASTING NOTES The stark white paste is TASTING NOTES A wrinkled, white rind
fine, crumbly, and delicate, and dotted with hints of mushrooms conceals TASTING NOTES This is creamy at the edge
with small holes. The goat flavor comes a sumptuous texture. The flavor is and drier, dense and more flavorful in the
through as herbaceous with a hint like melted butter and mushroom middle. Tymsboro has a subtle flavor of
of marzipan. soup, with just a dash of sherry. lemon and almonds, which strengthens
and deepens as the cheese matures.
HOW TO ENJOY This works well in soufflés HOW TO ENJOY For complete melt-in-the-
and tarts, or on the cheese board with a mouth indulgence, warm in the oven HOW TO ENJOY Eat as it comes, with fresh
fruity red wine, or perhaps a glass of until gooey soft, or transport it whole, fruit, or melted over poached pears.
Sharpham rosé. in its wooden packaging, for a picnic.
ENGLAND
cheeses, it feels thick rather than light lightly molded rind into the pale, soft TASTING NOTES Wedmore is ready to eat
in the mouth, but it has a citrusy paste for a mild, creamy taste when after just two weeks, when it is waxy
freshness and a barely discernible young that matures to a rich, buttery on the surface, but crumbly and moist
herbaceous goaty tang. flavor as the cheese ages. inside. The mild saltiness is balanced
by the tang of chives.
HOW TO ENJOY With its decorative bay HOW TO ENJOY This is delicious at room
leaf, it looks good a cheese board. Easy temperature with some cold green HOW TO ENJOY Great either on its own or
to spread on crackers or bread, or try it grapes, or warm it through and serve paired with a local cider, or sweeten
in a twice-baked soufflé. with a tangy red onion chutney. with slices of crisp apple.
ENGLAND Cruwys Morchard, Devon ENGLAND Riseley, Berkshire ENGLAND Westcombe, Somerset
Age Up to 5 weeks Age 4–10 weeks Age 2 weeks
Weight and Shape 6oz (170g), round Weight and Shape 11⁄2lb (675g), round Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), wheel
Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 61⁄2in (16cm), H. 13⁄4in (4.5cm) Size D. 63⁄4in (17cm), H. 3in (7.5cm)
203
Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Cow
Classification Fresh Classification Soft white Classification Flavor-added
Producer Vulscombe Cheese Producer Village Maid Cheese Producer Westcombe Dairy Company
Wensleydale PGI White Stilton PDO Wiltshire Loaf
First crafted by Cistercian monks White Stilton has a Protected Ceri Cryer started in 2005, inspired
in the 12th century, Wensleydale was Designation of Origin (PDO), meaning by the discovery of a recipe for a long-
gradually perfected by numerous it can be made only in Derbyshire, forgotten Wiltshire cheese, which she
GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND
farmers’ wives and the legendary Kit Nottinghamshire, and Leicestershire; put on the map when it won Best
Calvert, and immortalized by Wallace other requirements are that it is made Territorial Cheese in 2013 at the
and Gromit in the 20th century. In from locally produced milk, which must British Cheese Awards. She has also
2014, Yorkshire Wensleydale achieved be pasteurized. A popular base for named her Royal Wotton Blue in
PGI status, ensuring that it cannot be many blended or flavor-added cheeses. recognition of the army base nearby.
made outside the designated area.
TASTING NOTES Much underrated, White TASTINGS NOTES Under the light dusting
TASTING NOTES Pale white with a firm Stilton has a fresh, creamy mild flavor of gray and brown molds is an open
but dense slightly flaky texture, it has allied with a fine, crumbly moist texture. texture like young Caerphilly, buttery
a subtle wild honey flavor balanced yet not rich, with refreshing acidity, green
by refreshing acidity. HOW TO ENJOY Savor as it comes, or grass notes, and lingering peppery finish.
crumbled into salad. White Stilton
HOW TO ENJOY With crackers. In with apricot goes very well with a HOW TO ENJOY Both Great Bustard or
Yorkshire, they also like to pair the sweet dessert wine. Pigswill, rich in hops and available
sweetness with a piece of apple pie. locally, make great partners.
ENGLAND Wensleydale, North Yorkshire ENGLAND Derbyshire, Nottinghamshire, and ENGLAND Wiltshire
Leicestershire Age 2 months
Age 6–12 weeks
Age 3–4 weeks Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3 kg), wheel
Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg), cylinder
1
Weight and Shape 17 ⁄2lb (8kg), cylinder Size D. 9in (23cm), H. 31/2in (9cm)
Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 7in (18cm)
204 Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 10in (25cm) Milk Cow
Milk Cow
Milk Cow Classification Hard
Classification Hard
Classification Hard Producer Brinkworth Dairy
Producer Wensleydale Dairy Products
Producer Various
Windrush Winterdale Shaw Woolsery Goat
Modeled on traditional French The Betts family of Kent, farmers since Woolsery Goat is the result of Annette
methods, Windrush is made by two 1495, make this cheddar-style cheese Lee’s dedication to unique artisan
Australians, Renee and Richard using only morning milk to retain the cheesemaking as well as of the lush
Loveridge, who moved to the Windrush freshness and the heat. Matured green slopes of Dorset that allow the
Valley in 2003 and quickly established in stone cellars deep in the chalky goats to graze on an abundance of grass
a dedicated local following. It is also North Downs, it is the first carbon- and hay.
available flavored with herbs, neutral cheese in the UK.
peppercorns, or garlic. TASTING NOTES Moist and open-textured
TASTING NOTES.Hard and compact, yet with a subtle but distinct goaty taste
ENGLAND
TASTING NOTES Windrush is only made it melts in the mouth, releasing its that hints of pine nuts and green grass.
in small batches. It has a luxurious savory cheese and onion tang balanced It has a sea-breeze salty finish.
creamy texture and a lemon-fresh tang with the rich creaminess of the milk.
with hints of fruitiness and white wine. Very addictive. HOW TO ENJOY Eat on the cheese board,
together with some apple or pear.
HOW TO ENJOY Crumble it into tarts HOW TO ENJOY.Kent is famous for apples It is perfect for a cheese omelet or
or eat simply as it is with a cool and hops, so a good strong hoppy beer grated and used in cooking in place
Sauvignon Blanc. is the perfect partner along with fresh of cheddar.
apples or sweet apple chutney.
pioneer in the cheese world. He has cheese in 2008 using delicious Rory Stone, cheesemaker and owner
established an excellent reputation in unpasteurized milk from her herd of Highland Fine Cheese using milk
the region for cheesemaking skills. of home-bred Holstein Friesian cows. collected from the northern dairy
They now have a wonderful new cheese herd, it definitely stands out from
TASTING NOTES The yellow paste, dairy where they make their cheeses. the crowd.
bounded by a natural brown rind, is
smooth and springy with a mild flavor TASTINGS NOTES Anster has a coarse TASTING NOTES It is soft and creamy with
redolent of buttercups and meadows. Cheshire-like texture, and a fresh, fruity hints of gold leaf and the sea breeze
tang like sweet apples with a hint of on Highland pastures. It has a kick of
HOW TO ENJOY It seems a waste to cook cider. The finish has a lemony tang. malt and chocolate, and is mildly spicy.
with this excellent award-winning
cheese; instead, serve it on a cheese HOW TO ENJOY Try Jane’s cheese scone HOW TO ENJOY Perfect for a cheese board,
board with crusty bread and recipe; serve with oat cakes, blackberry this is also great for a soufflé or blue
a fruity Beaujolais. jam, or a sweet fruit chutney, or finely cheese mousse, and cheese caviar.
grate the cheese over roasted parsnips.
SCOTLAND
caramel toffee, it is moist on the mouth rind, the paste is soft and creamy with creamy finish hints of freshly baked
and has hints of boot polish developing the subtle taste of sweet meadows and yeasty bread.
into a salty sweetness. Very satisfying. mushrooms. With age, the taste becomes
more complex and slightly bitter. HOW TO ENJOY A great alternative to
HOW TO ENJOY Ideal for the cheese board, heavy cream in the Scottish dessert
but also good with a crisp salad with HOW TO ENJOY Serve alongside a hard cranachan, or spread on oatcakes with
pickled onions and warm crusty cheese on a cheese board, or melt fine smoked salmon.
bread, or in a quiche with lots of onto smoked ham and toasted bread
chopped chives. smeared with English mustard.
SCOTLAND Wigtownshire, Dumfries and SCOTLAND Ardersier, Inverness SCOTLAND Tain, Highland
Galloway Age 3 weeks Age From 2 days
Age 6–8 months Weight and Shape 9oz (250g) and 21⁄4lb Weight and Shape 41⁄2oz (120g), log
Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), (1.5kg), round Size L. 3in (8cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm)
truckles Size D. 41⁄2in (11cm) and 10in (25cm), 207
Milk Cow
Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 9in (23cm) H. 1in (2.5cm)
Classification Fresh
Milk Ewe Milk Cow
Producer Highland Fine Cheeses
Classification Hard Classification Soft white
Producer Galloway Farmhouse Cheeses Producer Connage Highland Dairy
Dunlop Isle of Mull Cheddar Kebbuck
Revived in the mid-1980s by Anne The Reade family farm is on the Made by the wonderful people of
Dorward, Dunlop is now made by a ruggedly beautiful Isle of Mull, in the Camphill Trust near Dumfries, this
handful of cheesemakers across Inner Hebrides. Here summers are short, fine, distinctive cheese is washed then
GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND
Scotland. The best are made with weather wild, and grain expensive, so literally hung out to dry in a cloth.
traditional Ayrshire milk. the cows’ grassy diet is supplemented After two months, the rind develops
with the spent grain husks, responsible a brown, prehistoric appearance.
TASTING NOTES Sweet and mild in taste, it for the pale color of the cheese.
has a pale primrose yellow rind and a TASTING NOTES A spongelike center with
buttery cheddar paste. At six months, TASTING NOTES It has a hard, pale a crispy outer crust, Kebbuck has a
the texture is similar to soft fudge; at interior with a fermented aroma and subtle sweet to peppery taste with a
12 months it is firm and fragrant. taste. It develops a feisty raw onion mild finish of beeswax. You can almost
and garlic bite that ensures those who taste the cows trampling the grass in
HOW TO ENJOY An afternoon tea favorite, taste it return for more. the morning dew.
enjoy it with hot scones and Assam
tea. Alternatively, add slices to oatcakes HOW TO ENJOY A cheese that reflects the HOW TO ENJOY Great on a British cheese
with mustard and a dram of whiskey. quirky nature of its creator, the feed, board, or on its own with scrumpy
Children love it on toast with and the weather, it should be enjoyed (hard cider). It can also be added to the
warm milk. with a wee dram of Tobermory whiskey. topping of a buttery apple crumble.
SCOTLAND
a crumbly outer crust, and is as sharp as like an old brewing room on the finish. and a slight peppery taste and spicy
grapefruit with the meatiness of an aged tang. It can sometimes finish with the
rib of Highland beef. Also has elements HOW TO ENJOY It can be enjoyed with a essence of mousselike milky chocolate.
of sweetness and steely blues. single malt whiskey when crumbled
onto cornbread, or alongside traditional HOW TO ENJOY Outstanding in twice-
HOW TO ENJOY It is great on a cheese board fruitcake with a cup of afternoon tea. baked soufflés or with walnuts and
with celery hearts and crumbly crackers A good breakfast cheese, it goes well dressed salad leaves, it sits well on
or grated over a winter salad with hot with grilled ham, and warm, lightly- raisin bread, and is great melted
roasted onions and winter squash. cooked eggs. on steaks.
SCOTLAND Carnwath, Lanarkshire SCOTLAND Kirkwall, Orkney Islands SCOTLAND Tain, Highland
Age 3 months Age 4 weeks Age 3 months
Weight and Shape 4lb (1.8kg), drum Weight and Shape7lb 7oz (3.5kg), Weight and Shape 6lb (2.8kg), wheel
Size D. 6in (16cm), H. 5in (12cm) pressed rounds Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 4in (10cm)
Milk Ewe Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 2in (5cm) Milk Cow
209
Classification Blue Milk Cow Classification Blue
Producer Errington Cheese Classification Hard Producer Highland Fine Cheese
Producer Grimbister Farm
Caboc A CLOSER LOOK
Like many artisan cheeses,
While the Romans played a significant role in improving Caboc developed out of the raw
cheesemaking in England, their influence did not cross the borders materials available—an abundance
of milk and Scottish oats.
into Scotland. Instead, most cheese was made by crofters, most
likely introduced by the Vikings.
Caboc is similar to crowdie (see she set about recreating the recipe.
p207), a traditional Scottish cheese Today, it is made in exactly the same
made from milk that has curdled way at Highland Fine Cheese
naturally without rennet. While Company, owned and run by her son
crowdie is made with skim milk, Ruaraidh. The milk comes from the
Caboc is made with extra cream. It is most northerly herds on mainland
said to have been created in the 15th Scotland in Caithness, a barren,
century by Mariota de Ile, daughter treeless area that is fairly flat and
of The Macdonald, Lord of the Isles, exposed to the cold northerly winds.
who was forced to flee to Ireland to As a result, the cows are of sturdy
avoid abduction and marriage by the stock, traditional Friesian with
Campbells. When she returned home some Ayrshire, and store more fat
to the Isle of Skye, she brought with to protect them from the harsh
GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND
her the recipe for Caboc, turning the elements; this gives a protein- and
rich milk of the island into a richer solids-rich milk that is ideal for
and more fitting cheese for the Lord cheesemaking.
of the Isle and his clan.
Like so many great recipes, it TASTING NOTES Made with
survived by being passed on, cream-enriched milk, it feels very rich,
generation to generation, although smooth, and buttery with a nutty taste
it had all but disappeared until its but slightly sharp on the finish like MILK CHURNS The cream is skimmed
revival in 1962 by Susannah Stone, sour cream, while the toasted pinhead from the milk, having been collected from two
dairy farms in Caithness, and poured into a
a distant descendant of the creator. oats give it a nutty yeasty flavor and a small round vat where starter cultures are
Using raw milk from their own farm, pleasant gentle crunchy feel. added, then stirred and left to slowly ripen in
milk churns for upward of 3 months.
HOW TO ENJOY Caboc is at home
on any grand dining room cheese table,
but is also versatile in the kitchen.
Slice onto a blood orange or clementine
salad with a handful of bitter salad
leaves, or stir into fluffy mashed
210 potatoes served with sliced roast ham
and onion relish. A Stone family
favorite is to grill some on haggis from
the excellent local butcher served with
a glass of Glenmorangie whiskey made
Sturdy Highland cattle
just down the road.
SCOTLAND
211
Log, sliced
2010 decided to set up a Welsh Food 2006. Following the success of their in 1983 when the Jennings family
Centre in the old farm buildings. Pont Gar range, they expanded to returned from setting up a dairy
include two new blues and the hard enterprise in Libya and North Yemen.
TASTINGS NOTES Using milk from a Llangloffan range.
single herd and made to a 300-year- TASTING NOTES Hard but unpressed with
old recipe, it is an elegant, dense, TASTINGS NOTES Bright orange curd with a smooth, velvety texture and buttery
crumbly clothbound cheese with a streaks of contrasting blue make this color, its mature flavor has a slight raw
subtle nutty flavor. cheese stand out. It is smooth, soft, and onion tang and a nutty aftertaste.
distinct yet mild with a savory acidity,
HOW TO ENJOY Perfect for Welsh rarebit which makes this a very appealing blue. HOW TO ENJOY It is perfect for the cheese
or, if you are in the area, try Penderyn board, served with a rich Bordeaux. It
Welsh whiskey or Innkeeper’s Tipple, HOW TO ENJOY Like most Continental- is also delicious with fresh fruit and
traditionally made with wild style blues, it goes well with a sweet preserves, and excellent in sauces for
whinberries, but now their cultivated wine or a hoppy beer and is great with dishes such as macaroni and cheese,
cousins, blueberries. crunchy fresh celery or in a soufflé. and for melting on toast.
WA L E S
crusty, washed-rind cheese, it is supple tang, and a green, grassy finish. smooth, creamy texture. It is refreshing
with hints of meadow flowers, and a and crisp with a mild goaty finish.
strong, savory, almost meaty finish. HOW TO ENJOY Ideal for the cheese board,
and delicious with crusty bread and a HOW TO ENJOY Spread thickly on crusty
HOW TO ENJOY Perfect for a picnic lunch; glass of chilled beer. It has good bread; melt over bruschetta with vine
spread on your favorite crusty bread melting properties and is excellent in tomatoes; or make a delicious savory
and serve with charcuterie, a pale ale, gratin dishes. cheesecake mixed with fresh herbs.
or dry Riesling. Serve with Sancerre or rosé.
from her own herd. Perl Las, which 25 years, they decided to join forces to Caerphilly, and washed-rind cheeses
translates from Welsh as “Blue Pearl,” create their own range of soft cheeses from raw milk. Some have been made
followed in 2001. using the excellent local milk. in conjunction with Britain’s first
affineur, James Aldridge.
TASTING NOTES It has an earthy, moldy TASTING NOTES A soft white Brie-style
aroma, typical of a true blue, with a cheese, it has a mild, velvety texture TASTING NOTES This is a dumpling-
smooth, creamy texture, and a mellow with a hint of mushrooms, and a sweet shaped cheese with a pink-orange rind,
yet strong taste with a spicy, vaguely buttery taste with a slight sharpness a supple and elastic yellow interior, a
herbaceous finish. on the finish. It can also be smoked or distinct, pungent farmyard aroma, and
made with herbs. a savory, meaty finish.
HOW TO ENJOY A good blue for the cheese
board, melted on hot sirloin steak, or HOW TO ENJOY This cheese-board classic HOW TO ENJOY A must for cheese lovers,
used in a dressing for fresh, crisp is delicious with seasonal fruits and and beautifully accompanied by a
salads. Best with a dry Riesling, nuts. Serve with a New World Merlot dry Gewürztraminer. It also makes
tawny port, or beer. or cider. a pungent addition to a fondue.
WA L E S
when young, it becomes dry, almost aftertaste that intensifies with age. hard, with an almondy mellowness,
brittle, with age. A smoked version is also produced. and can be grated. It finishes with an
aromatic tang. Also delicious smoked.
HOW TO ENJOY A classic for any cheese HOW TO ENJOY It melts superbly, so it
board, and can be used in cooking can be melted over vegetables, or added HOW TO ENJOY On the cheese board,
where a strong cheese is required. to an omelet. It is also suitable for a Ardsallagh pairs well with reds, such as
Perfect with Chardonnay. cheese board, and can be enjoyed with Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, or cider. It’s
a glass of beer. also good for use in quiches and tarts.
of Caerphilly.
a delicious fresh taste, and sometimes,
The years after the World War I when the grazing is at its best, its
were tough on the farming usual herbaceous sweetness is infused
community, and, with the advent of like a rustic béchamel sauce by the
the railroad, farmers were able to scent of crushed bracken moistened by
sell their milk rather than preserve autumnal rains. With age it
it as cheese; subsequently, cheese becomes softer, creamier, and
production dwindled. After the more supple as it grows a
Ministry of Food stopped all bluish-gray coat that
production of Caerphilly until 1954, sometimes sneaks onto the
traditional Welsh Caerphilly did surface of the cheese and
not reappear until the 1980s. indicates it is alive and well;
Fortunately, at the turn of the 20th you just need to scrape it off.
century, some Somerset cheddar
makers, seeing the economic HOW TO ENJOY
advantages, decided to turn their Caerphilly’s mild, lemony fresh
hands to Caerphilly, as it was ready flavor means it can be used in
to sell within a few weeks compared sweet or savory dishes, but it is
216
to twelve months for cheddar. especially delicious with Welsh
A few producers, such as Ducketts rabbit (also known as rarebit).
and Westcombe Farm Dairy—which The cheese is very good melted
still makes it in the traditional on toast or with crusty bread,
way—continued after the war but but it can be mixed with beer,
made less and less until the artisanal egg, Worcestershire sauce, and
cheese revolution of the 1980s, mustard for an interesting
combination. Serve with beer,
WALES All over local cider, or a white wine from one
Age 4 days to 4 months of the new Welsh vineyards.
Weight and Shape 91⁄2lb (4.5kg), wheel
Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 31⁄4 in (8cm)
Milk Cow
Classification Hard
Producer Various
DRAINING THE WHEY
The curd is stirred by hand
in the whey until the desired
acidity is reached; this is
traditionally determined
when an imprint of a hand
remains on the pressed curd.
The whey is then drained
and the curd cut again and
piled into molds lined with
cheesecloth. All of this is
done by hand. The molds are
stacked three to four high
under the press, separated
by metal trays, and then
CUTTING THE CURD The curd is cut pressure is applied. The
using special knives, long enough to reach the molds remain in the press
bottom of the vat. As they are drawn slowly for 20–30 minutes.
through the milk, they cut the curd in three ways,
producing very soft and floppy 1⁄2in (1cm) cubes.
WA L E S
217
Interior
The interior is a yellow-white color like
a magnolia, with fine, paler, almost
white marbling throughout.
Bellingham Blue Beenoskee Cashel Blue
One of Ireland’s best blue cheeses, it is German born Maja Binder produces One of Ireland’s best-loved blues,
made from raw milk from Glyde Farm’s some of Ireland’s most unusual raw Cashel Blue is made by the Grubb
closed herd of Friesians by dedicated milk cheeses at Dingle Peninsula Dairy. family at Beechmount Farm, with milk
GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND
cheesemaker Peter Thomas. The milk is naturally salty, since the from the farm’s own pedigree British
cows graze close to the sea, and local Friesian herd.
TASTING NOTES Moist with blue-green seaweed is used for flavoring. Flavored
mold and a natural rind, it is mild and and seaweed-flecked cheeses are TASTING NOTESThis soft, silky-textured
gentle when young, then develops a also produced. creamy blue with green-blue marbling
rich, mellow, peppery tang with age. has a medium flavor, with a gentle buzz
TASTING NOTES The crusty rind of from the mold veining.
HOW TO ENJOY Extra-mature cheeses seaweed adds a natural, sea-salt flavor
work well with a glass of Barolo or to the fudgey, divinely creamy flavor of HOW TO ENJOY For maximum flavor, serve
Sauternes. Superb melted over steak, the rind, and there’s the warm, spicy this cheese board cheese at room
or for stuffing chicken breasts and aroma to the paste. temperature with a ripe pear and a
great for soufflés, pasta, and in salads sweet Sémillon or Saint-Émilion wine.
with pears or pomegranate seeds and HOW TO ENJOY As a cheese board cheese, Great melted onto grilled steak,
toasted nuts. this needs nothing more than a glass of crumbled into salads, or added to a
Alsace Riesling and some quince paste. smooth celery soup.
IRELAND
spiciness as it ages. Rich milk from Its natural rind is brine-washed
hilly grazing adds an herbaceous HOW TO ENJOY It should be left out and flavorful.
character to the mix. to soften before eating, and is best
accompanied with a crusty baguette HOW TO ENJOY This cheese is perfect with
HOW TO ENJOY Coolea grates and melts and grapes. The wine needs to be plums or figs. It also grates well and
well, and is good in omelets or salads. gentle—a light red Valpolicella can be used in sauces or soufflés.
Enjoy it with a full-bodied red wine or would work well.
warming Tawny Port.
in taste to Roquefort (see pp82–83). Dunmanus Bay, using time-honored attributed to the excellent milk from
methods and raw milk. their herd of Montbéliarde cows.
TASTING NOTES The Crozier flock
of British Friesland ewes grazes on TASTING NOTES This orange-hued washed TASTING NOTES When young, this
limestone to give the soft, creamy, and rind cheese is speckled with tiny holes. smooth and golden yellow cheese with
subtly crumbly cheese a steely dry It is smooth, creamy, and sensuously intermittent holes is fruity and creamy.
piquancy and peppery punch. textured, with sublime grassy flavors Aging adds spice, nuttiness, and a
and warm fruity notes that become gentle aromatic buzz, finished with
HOW TO ENJOY Crozier Blue can be nuttier and richer with age. a zesty tang.
served as a first course with ripe pears,
walnuts, and delicate salad leaves, HOW TO ENJOY Durrus is superb after HOW TO ENJOY This versatile cheese
or after dinner, with a glass of late- dinner with Sancerre or Merlot. can be enjoyed as it comes with just
bottled vintage Port or Tokaji. Use it Durrus Melt, a type of fondue, is a an Alsace Pinot Gris. It is also good in
on blue-cheese pizza, in a quiche, or classic modern Irish recipe. tartlets with caramelized onions or
added to risotto. in a smooth fondue or sauce.
IRELAND
a meaty finish. compact pale ivory interior with savory
HOW TO ENJOY Eat on crusty bread, notes reminiscent of Marmite and a
crackers, or sandwiches with peppery HOW TO ENJOY Match Extra Mature nutty almond finish.
salad leaves and tomatoes. Smoked Gubbeen with fruitcake.
It’s good for baked potatoes, as an After dinner, it is superb with Chianti HOW TO ENJOY Supple like young Gouda,
instant dip, or as a base for smoked or Bordeaux. it grills superbly but is best served
salmon pâté, and it makes an excellent with a handful of other Irish cheeses
luxurious cheesecake. and a glass of Guinness.
cheeses, and more recently for her cow’s It is now made by Helen Finnegan the smallest Milleens a “dote”—an Irish
milk cheese, Lavistown (see p222). at Knockdrinna. term for something cherished.
TASTING NOTES Knockdrinna Gold is TASTING NOTES This low-fat Caerphilly- TASTING NOTES It is a washed-rind cheese
creamy and nutty. It is rind-washed style cheese has a thin, leathery, with an orange-pink hue and inviting
with organic white wine, lending a rich pale-cream rind dusted with white, soft texture that becomes unctuously
golden color and citrusy notes. A soft gray, and pink molds. It is tangy and runny. The flavor is mushroomy and
creamy goat’s cheese and semi-soft fresh when young, but becomes more herbaceous, with full woodland aromas.
ewe’s milk cheese are also produced. crumbly with a hint of spice with age.
HOW TO ENJOY Serve with good bread,
HOW TO ENJOY On the cheese board or a HOW TO ENJOY Pair it with wedges of preferably Irish soda, and a glass of
mixed cheese platter, it is best served dessert apple and a glass of ale. It adds Barolo or Claret. Milleens can be added
with a grassy Sauvignon Blanc. It is something special to apple pie or can be at the last minute to risotto or melted
ideal baked in a goat cheese tart. placed underneath the mincemeat before into vegetable soups, such as broccoli
baking Christmas mince pies. or cauliflower.
TASTING NOTES This Gouda-style cheese TASTING NOTES It has a naturally hard TASTING NOTES This classic chèvre-style
has a moist, supple consistency and rind, a rich gold color, and small holes log has a pale, wrinkly rind tinged with
elegant mellow notes, becoming full- punctuating the creamy consistency. pink and a silky texture with a subtle
bodied and crumbly as it ages. It is also Sweet milky flavors are rounded with nutty, goaty flavor and crisp finish.
IRELAND
available with tomato and herbs, and toasty, almost cookie-ish, notes and a
garlic and basil. fresh, spicy acidity to finish. HOW TO ENJOY Serve it melted or fresh
with sourdough bread and grapes, or
HOW TO ENJOY Mossfield is great for the HOW TO ENJOY This needs no adornment, with slices of pear and a white
cheese board, with a glass of claret, just a glass of decent red wine. In Bordeaux. Crumble it into salads or
or in tarts and quiches. The flavored cooking, it melts well for Welsh serve on warm toasted brioche drizzled
alternatives add zest to baked potatoes. rarebit, mixed with chopped green with honey, and enjoy with a Sauternes.
onions or tomatoes.
NORTH SEA
ANTWERPEN
Postel
Bio Bleu,
Pas de Rouge LIMBURG
WEST VLAANDEREN OOST-VLAANDEREN LIMBURG
Rubens
VLAAMS BRABANT
Keiems Bloempje
BRUSSEL
N Passendale
BELGIUM Hervé ★
BRABANT WALLON
LIÈGE
HAINAUT
NAMUR
Key
Chimay à la Bière,
★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses
Vieux Chimay
Produced only here
LUXEMBOURG
Produced throughout the region DIEKIRCH
LUXEMBOURG
GREVEN-
50 miles MACHER
LUXEMBOURG
50 km
BELGIUM
BELGIUM
TASTING NOTES
tang, long-lasting and very peppery, has a heady aroma of hops and springy and creamy. The flavor ranges
with an acidic bite and spicy overtones. barnyard, while the creamy, supple from surprisingly sweet and mellow to
interior is fruity, with a distinct taste of strong, spicy, and anything but mellow.
HOW TO ENJOY Delicious with fall fruit toasted hops continuing on the finish.
such as sweet grapes and Comice HOW TO ENJOY Its pungency demands a
pears, or in a salad with chicory and HOW TO ENJOY This is a superb melting strong companion, so enjoy it with dark
nuts. Pair with sweet white wines. cheese, or serve it simply, accompanied bread and wash it down with Belgian-
by a Belgian beer, ideally from Chimay. style Trappist beer or ale.
BELGIUM Diksmuide, West Viaanderen BELGIUM Gent, Oost Viaanderen BELGIUM Passendale, West Viaanderen
Age 4–8 weeks Age 6–8 weeks Age 3–6 months
Weight and Shape 12oz (350g) or 151⁄2lb Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2.5kg), round Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg), round
(7kg), round Size D. 83⁄4in (22cm), H. 23⁄4in (7cm) Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 3in (7cm)
226 Size D. 41⁄4in (11cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Milk Cow Milk Cow
Milk Cow Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft
Classification Soft white Producer Coöperatieve Het Hinkelspel Producer Bongrain
Producer Het Dischhof
Postel Rubens Vieux Chimay
An orange-rinded cheese handmade by This distinctive washed-rind cheese is Like Chimay à la Bière (see p225), this
the monks at the Abbey of Postel using named in honor of the 17th-century is made at Scourmount Abbey. Annatto
milk from their own herd of some 160 Flemish Baroque painter Peter Paul is added to the milk to give the finished
cows and others from nearby farms. Rubens. The recipe was revived in the cheese a warm tangerine color. With its
Needless to say, this cheese is not made 1960s and is now one of the most flattened ball shape and thin golden
in high volumes, but is much loved by popular of all the Belgian cheeses. brown crust, this makes it an attractive
those in the know. addition to a cheese board.
TASTING NOTES Beneath the reddish-
TASTING NOTES Hard and quite dry with brown protective rind lies a firm yet TASTING NOTES Although this cheese is
a dark, earthy yellow color, Postel is supple paste with small holes. It has described as hard, Vieux Chimay has a
BELGIUM
a nutty-flavored cheese, with hints a rich, smooth flavor, with a subtle soft, chewy, melt-in-the-mouth texture.
of spices such as cloves and nutmeg, sweet-savory taste. The flavor is buttery with a hint of
becoming more intense with age. hazelnuts and a distinct but pleasant
HOW TO ENJOY Like all semi-soft cheeses, bitterness to the finish.
HOW TO ENJOY Pair with a bottle of Postel Rubens melts and bakes well, and it is
beer, obviously. This is a good cheese easy to slice for snacks or breakfast. HOW TO ENJOY The makers recommend it
for grating, as a snack, or as a topping Try it with slices of fresh apple, and melted into a lobster risotto, and paired
for baked potatoes. serve with cider or a light red wine. with a glass of Chimay Tripel beer.
THE NETHERLANDS All over THE NETHERLANDS All over THE NETHERLANDS Gelderland
Age 1–12 months Age 3–6 months Age 5–6 weeks
Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg), ball Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz (8kg), Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2.5kg) flat round
Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 4in (10cm) boulder
Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 2in (5cm)
228 Milk Cow Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 4in (10cm)
Milk Cow
Classification Semi-soft Milk Goat
Classification Semi-soft
Producer Friesland Campina Classification Flavor-added
Producer Friesland Campina
Producer Various
Leidse Kaas AOC Maasdam Nagelkaas
Named after Leiden, its town of origin, This Swiss-style cheese was originally Originally made in Friesland, it is a
its rind is imprinted with crossed keys, created in the Netherlands as a less Gouda in which fresh cloves and cumin
the city’s emblem. Similar to Gouda, expensive alternative to Emmental, but have been added to the fresh curd
but made with reduced-fat milk, it is its sweet, fruity taste, large holes, and and aged together. The cloves resemble
studded with cumin seeds. Spices such bulging upper side proved very popular. nails, so they are called kruidnagels, or
as cumin, cloves, and peppercorns Production continues to grow, with “spicy nails,” and the cheese is known
were introduced in the 1600s by early leading brand Leerdammer now sold as “nail cheese.” Its equivalent without
THE NETHERLANDS
Dutch explorers. across the world. cloves is known as Kanterkaas.
TASTING NOTES The dense, compact, TASTING NOTES Very supple and elastic TASTING NOTES Despite being made from
sunshine-yellow interior feels dry yet with large holes. Its sweet, fermenting skim milk with only a 23 percent fat
creamy and mellow, perfectly balanced fruit flavor is a result of the special content, the cheese possesses a
by the aromatic cumin. bacteria added to the milk. pronounced hot, spicy aromatic taste
and firm, creamy texture, and turns
HOW TO ENJOY Excellent with all drinks HOW TO ENJOY A great choice for the a deep yellow with age.
ranging from beer to aromatic wines. It whole family as a snacking cheese or in
also adds a pleasant spice-filled note to sandwiches, salads, and fondue. Pair HOW TO ENJOY Use sparingly in salads
salads, soups, and vegetable dishes. with light fruity whites and rosé wines. and hot dishes, and pair with beer.
THE NETHERLANDS All over THE NETHERLANDS All over THE NETHERLANDS All over
Age 2–12 months Age 4–12 weeks Age 4–12 months
Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg), boulder Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg), boulder Weight and Shape 17lb 10oz (8kg),
Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 12–151⁄2in (30–40cm), H. 6–8in boulder
Milk Cow (15–20cm) Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 4in (10cm) 229
Classification Flavor-added Milk Cow Milk Cow
Producer Various Classification Semi-soft Classification Flavor-added
Producer Various Producer Various
Gouda A CLOSER LOOK
The Netherlands produces 730,000
The long-keeping properties of the Dutch cheeses, especially Gouda, metric tons of cheese, of which
and the geographical position of Holland on the west coast of Europe 550,000 is exported. About 60 percent
of Dutch cheese production is Gouda.
meant, historically, that the cheeses could be shipped to France and
farther afield. By the 12th century, their popularity had spread
across Europe; they later became an essential item on the
explorer’s shopping list when they took to the seas. Young Gouda has a
distinctive polished
Evidence of the cheeses’ importance The best are the Boerenkaas, or yellow rind.
can be seen in the existence of the farmhouse Gouda, made with raw
weigh-houses and formal markets milk by small farmers when the
in virtually every town, such as the weather permits the cattle to stay
beautifully restored example in outside and graze the fresh grasses
Gouda. Built in 1668, it was where of the polders, a remarkable
the farmers brought their cheeses to landscape of dikes and windmills.
be weighed and quality-checked to Over the centuries, other European
estimate their tax. Today, you can countries (notably Sweden) have
find out your weight in cheese at the adopted this style of cheesemaking,
weekly markets in summer in Gouda, and, in the last century, Dutch
Alkmaar, and Edam. immigrants in North America,
What differentiates Gouda and Australia, and New Zealand have
Edam (see p230) from other cheeses started making farmhouse versions
Young cheese
is that some of the whey is replaced that meticulously retain the old
LOW COUNTRIES
THE NETHERLANDS
black waxed rind. sunshine yellow.
Mature cheese
231
GERMANY In the Alpine regions of
GERMANY, N Bayern (Bavaria), cheesemaking was
influenced by the Swiss, and before them,
BADEN-
WÜRTTEMBERG
Tête de Moine ★,
Vacherin Mont d’Or ★
Sbrinz ★ Bavaria Blu
Appenzeller
Tomme Vaudoise,
Vacherin Fribourgeois ★ Appenzeller
Bachensteiner Bio Paulus
Gruyère ★
Vorarlberger
Bergkäse ★ AUSTRIA
Sbrinz ★ Tiroler Graukäse ★,
Tomme Vaudoise Hobelkäse Chorherrenkäse, Weinkäse
Tiroler Graukäse ★
SWITZERLAND Sbrinz ★
Key
Schabziger Chorherrenkäse, ★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses
PRODUCED THROUGHOUT
THE COUNTRY
Tiroler Graukäse ★ Produced only here
Emmentaler, LIECHTENSTEIN Produced throughout the region
Mutschli, Valle Maggia 100 miles
Raclette
Hobelkäse
100 km
GERMANY
GERMANY
TASTING NOTES Dense with small holes, three months old, when it is supple, cheese. It has a very pleasant, mild
it has a sweet, buttery taste, becoming golden yellow, and mild, with a hint flavor and a goaty finish that is not too
more intense and slightly salty. of hazelnut. pronounced. The interior is punctuated
with caraway seeds.
HOW TO ENJOY This is perfect for a HOW TO ENJOY For breakfast, snacks,
Bavarian Brotzeit, an afternoon meal cheese plates, and cooking. In Germany, HOW TO ENJOY Perfect for cheese boards,
accompanied with sausage slices, thin slices are laid on or between white salads, or drizzled with sweet mustard
bacon, and dark bread. Enjoy with a bread slices. Typically served with tea, to bring out the flavor. Enjoy it with a
fine Bavarian beer. coffee, or beer. liqueur or a light white wine.
Camembert and Gorgonzola. The blue throughout the country; in Germany, became so popular that, since 1830, the
mold is injected into the young cheese, butter was always more important majority of it has been made in Germany,
a technique developed in Germany in than cheese. Best known are Harzer, mostly in the Allgäu from the excellent
the 1970s. Bavaria Blu is often referred Olmützer Quargel (pictured), local milk.
to as the blue cheese for people who Handkäse, and Mainzer.
don’t like blue cheese. TASTING NOTES Its sticky orange-brown
TASTING NOTESSeveral of these “coins” rind and intense barnyardy smell
TASTING NOTES Considerably milder than are assembled into a roll, to be comes from being washed in special
Gorgonzola or Camembert, it has a separated for eating. When fresh, the bacteria. The taste is significantly
very rich, creamy taste and subtle spicy paste is lemony sharp, but at about milder, but still farmyardy and meaty.
blue finish. The blue splotches through three weeks it becomes mellower.
the interior make it very appealing. HOW TO ENJOY Served for Brotzeit,
HOW TO ENJOY Mixed with vinegar, salt, afternoon tea, with boiled potatoes and
HOW TO ENJOY Served on most German and onion, it is called “hand cheese with butter, or with vinaigrette and slices of
cheese boards with a white Rhine wine music.” With dark German bread and onion, dark bread, and beer or cider.
such as Riesling, and a nutty bread. cider, it is a satisfying afternoon meal.
GERMANY Allgäu, Bayern GERMANY Harz mountain range GERMANY Bayern (Bavaria)
Age 4–6 weeks (Niedersachsen, Sachsen-Anhalt, Age 6–12 weeks
and Thüringen)
Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), round Weight and Shape 5oz (150g), brick
Age 2–4 weeks
Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 3in (7cm) 1
Size L. 5in (12cm), W. 11⁄2in (4cm), H. 1in
234 Weight and Shape 3 ⁄2oz (100g), log (3.5cm)
Milk Cow
Size Various, D. 2in (5cm), H. 3⁄4in (2cm) Milk Cow
Classification Blue (pictured)
Producer Käserei Champignon Classification Semi-soft
Milk Cow
Producer Various
Classification Fresh
Producer Various
Schichtkäse or Tilsiterkäse Weisslacker
Handkäse Named after the town of Tilsit, now Invented in 1874, Weisslacker means
A very old recipe using skim milk, Sowjetsk in Russia, it was apparently “white lacquer,” and it is so named
made in northern parts of Germany, created by Dutch immigrants in the because of its shiny, glassy white rind,
it is a lactic cheese, which curdles mid-19th century, trying to recreate the result of being soaked in brine.
without rennet. It is made of layers of their famous Gouda. Brick-shaped, it It is not unlike feta. This cheese is
curd—the top and bottom layers from can be waxed or made with added also known as Bayerische Bierkäse
skim milk, the middle from whole milk. cream, herbs, pepper, or caraway seeds. (Bavarian beer cheese), as it goes
Swiss Tilsit is round and firmer, with extremely well with this brew.
TASTING NOTES An acquired taste, it is pea-sized holes.
GERMANY
vaguely aromatic and tart, with a TASTING NOTES After two days in brine,
texture similar to cottage cheese. The TASTING NOTES Butter-yellow, springy, it is crumbly and has a surprisingly
middle layer of the cheese looks more and sliceable, with many uneven slits, strong smell and tang, with a salty bite.
yellow because it is higher in fat. it ranges in flavor from mild and
sweet-savory to strong and meaty. HOW TO ENJOY Cut into chunks and
HOW TO ENJOY Suitable for breakfast in serve with soft pretzels, vinaigrette,
place of yogurt. Spread on a slice of HOW TO ENJOY Ideal for breakfast, and a lot of onions. This is a hearty
dark bread as a snack. It also goes sandwiches, and snacks along with meal best washed down with
perfectly with tea or coffee. beer, Riesling, Sylvaner, or a fruity red. a lot of beer. Also used in Maultaschen.
on the edge of the Bregenz Forest at giving it a distinctive appearance, the monastery of Schlierbach in Upper
an altitude of 3,000ft, nestled between and is sometimes known as Amadeus Austria, where it is still made by the
majestic mountains. Cows here graze in other countries. It was originally monks. They now make a range of cow,
a variety of grasses and herbs in the made in Tirol, and based on monastery goat, and sheep cheeses, and since 1999
meadows, producing rich, sweet milk. or Trappist cheeses, where fresh milk they are all organic.
was combined with sweet buttermilk.
TASTING NOTES Hand-washed in brine, it TASTING NOTES Brine-washed, it has a
has a sticky pink-orange rind and a rich, TASTING NOTES Supple with small holes, pale red-orange rind and smooth, deep
creamy interior with tiny holes. The it has a smooth texture and a pleasant yellow interior with a spicy, full-bodied
taste and aroma is barnyardy, meaty, milky or lactic aroma. Its taste has a taste and a farmyardy aroma typical of
with a sweet spicy finish. hint of herbs and meadow flowers. Trappist cheese.
HOW TO ENJOY Great with hoppy Austrian HOW TO ENJOY A pleasant, undemanding HOW TO ENJOY Great on a cheese board
beer or an aromatic white wine. Serve cheese for the cheese board, breakfast with bread for an afternoon snack. Pair
with crusty dark bread and mountain table, or buffet. Pair with Trappist-style with a red Zinfandel, Merlot, or Pinot
ham or with sliced pickled onions. beer or local Grüner Veltliner wine. Noir, or a full-bodied white wine.
AUSTRIA
and becomes smooth, softer, and almost paste supple. The grazing gives the TASTING NOTESAfter six weeks, it has
runny. The taste is lemony fresh. cheese its buttery yellow color and subtle a fermenting-fruit, slightly lemony
taste of wild honey, with a savory, salty tang and a hint of the Zweigelt wine,
HOW TO ENJOY In Tirol, it is served with undercurrent with age. balanced by a smooth, tender texture.
vinegar, pumpkin seed oil, and onion
rings. The Styrian version is typically HOW TO ENJOY Vorarlberger is equally at HOW TO ENJOY Eye-catching cheese board
grated over flat cake on buttered bread. home as a snack, in a fondue, or grilled, addition with crusty bread. Pair with a
Try with salads and sautéed potatoes. complemented by a fruity Chardonnay. red Zweigelt wine from Styrian country.
this cheese has a brown-orange of Gruyère, near Fribourg, and can to graze in the mountain pastures, and
aromatic rind from washing with a trace its history back to 1072. The the farmers, each with a few cows, pool
closely-guarded secret blend of cider, best, Gruyère d’Alpage, are made in milk to make cheese. In fall, they
white wine, herbs, and spices. It is still the mountains in summer when the return home and share out the cheeses
made in small village dairies but cows graze the alpine pastures. at the annual “Chästeilet,” a major
marketed under a joint brand name. event for the farmers and tourists.
TASTING NOTES At 4 months, it is firm
TASTING NOTES The “classic” at six months and dense with a nutty flavor. At 8 TASTING NOTES Cut in paper-thin slices
has nutty notes and a spicy finish. Later months, it has a wonderful complexity with a cheese rake, Hobelkäse reveals
the cheese is more aromatic, and is sold that is rich, strong, nutty, and earthy. the exquisite aroma of the flowery
as “Surchoix” or the even better “Extra.” meadows captured in the milk.
HOW TO ENJOY This essential ingredient
HOW TO ENJOY Popular for breakfast when for fondue. Grate over pasta, salads, or HOW TO ENJOY Traditionally thinly sliced
young, or the cheese board when aged, vegetables, or into sauces. Serve with and rolled, and served with a prickling
with crusty bread, cider, beer, or a racy walnuts, fruity bread, and a Dole or white wine from the Lake Geneva
red wine such as Dole or Fitou. Burgundy red wine. vineyards as an aperitif.
SWITZERLAND
yellow to brown rind is a soft, mild Orsières, Goms, and others. TASTING NOTES Very hard and grainy, it
paste, with few or no holes, and a light has a distinct aroma from the flowery
yellow color. Mutschli is a pleasant TASTING NOTES A brown, leathery washed meadows, with spicy, slightly salty
cheese and a children’s favorite. rind encases a smooth, supple paste with undercurrents.
a rich, fruity, savory flavour that tastes
HOW TO ENJOY In central Switzerland, like liquid gold when grilled. HOW TO ENJOY Superb grated into pasta
Mutschli is typically fried in a pan and and soups, or serve accompanied by a
served with boiled potatoes, similar to HOW TO ENJOY Serve on top of steaming fruity Swiss or Burgundy red or white
raclette. Otherwise it is eaten mostly as potatoes, with pickled cucumbers and wine, or Champagne, as an aperitif.
part of breakfast or as a snack. onions, and a local white or red wine.
SWITZERLAND All over SWITZERLAND All over SWITZERLAND Luzern, Obwalden, and
Age 5 weeks Age 6 months Nidwalden
Weight and Shape 10oz (300g), round Weight and Shape 131⁄4lb (6kg), wheel Age 18–48 months
(pictured) Size D. 18in (45cm), H. 4in (10cm) Weight 66–88lb (30–40kg), wheel
Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 4in (10cm) (pictured) Milk Cow Size D. 151⁄2in (40cm), H. 12in (30cm) 239
Milk Cow, goat, or ewe (pictured)
Classification Semi-soft
Classification Semi-soft Milk Cow
Producer Various
Producer Various Classification Hard
Producer Various
Emmentaler A CLOSER LOOK
About 265 gallons (1,000 liters) of
One of the great classics of the cheese world, Emmental can trace milk is needed for one cheese. As
its history back to 1293 but was first mentioned by name in 1542, a result, like all the big mountain
cheeses of Europe, they are made by
when the recipe was given to the people of Langenthal in the cooperatives rather than individuals.
Emme valley.
At the beginning of each summer, meadows abundant with wild
farmers would take their small flowers, grasses, and herbs. It is this
herds to the summer pastures, that makes Swiss Emmental unique
known as alpage. Far from the and impossible to duplicate despite
nearest markets, they needed to many copies the world over. Over
make a cheese that required months winter, the cattle are housed in
to mature, so they pooled their milk, barns. Fed a diet of hay, they give
creating huge, slow-ripening cheeses, milk that is more concentrated and
which could ripen in the chalets until intense, but the color is a paler
the cows returned to the valleys at yellow and the cheeses often smaller.
the beginning of fall.
Little has changed since then, TASTING NOTES When first cut, a RIND The distinctive, repeating pattern on the
G E R M A N Y, A U S T R I A , S W I T Z E R L A N D
except that Emmental is now made perfume like a million meadow flowers rind guarantees authenticity to the consumer.
all over Switzerland where there are is released. If you squeeze a small
high pastures, and is produced in piece, you can feel its supple texture
mountain chalets or small owner- and, as it warms, you can taste the
operated cooperatives. Hence, as you hushed tones of the alpine meadows,
travel through the magnificent Alps, the sweetness of ripe, fermenting
you can still see the timber-built fruit, and herbaceous white wine
chalets with their colorful flower that tingles on the palate. If you
boxes, wooden balconies, and tiny find one that has a tiny “tear”
windows, and the peaceful cows with of moisture trapped in the holes,
their hand-painted bells grazing it will be as close to perfect as
you will find.
Quarter wheel
SWITZERLAND
241
since the 11th century, when the local production then shifted to farms owned rind dusted with white mold. The raw
monks introduced fenugreek. Skim milk by the monastery, when the cheese was cow’s-milk cheese Tomme Fleurette
curds are aged for a few weeks, then given to the Church as a tithe. Originally develops reddish-brown patches that
finely ground and mixed with the named Bellelay after the monastery, it break down the curd until it becomes
ground fenugreek seeds. It is also known was renamed “head of the monks,” in almost liquid. Goat’s-milk cheeses are
as Sapsago. recognition of enthusiastic consumption. sold as Tomme de Chèvre.
TASTING NOTES Pressed into a small, TASTING NOTES Dense, smooth, and TASTING NOTES Vaudoise is mild and
truncated cone, it has a powerful, racy, yellow as the result of meadow flowers, creamy with a hint of mushrooms from
almost eye-wateringly spicy tang. it has a buttery, slightly savory taste, the rind, while Fleurette has a more
revealed when pared into rosettes with intense, rustic flavor as it softens.
HOW TO ENJOY Mix with equal parts butter the specially invented girolle machine.
and spread over crusty white bread with HOW TO ENJOY Great with crispy bread,
onions or fresh chives. It spices up baked HOW TO ENJOY Using the girolle, guests especially caraway or walnut, and a
potatoes, fondues, and soups. Cider or create rosettes, and enjoy with a Lake Vully or Chablis, or dip in breadcrumbs
Pinot Noir work well with it. Geneva white and fresh walnuts. and lightly fry, and serve with salad.
SWITZERLAND
TASTING NOTES Encircled with aromatic TASTING NOTES The ivory paste has tiny
TASTING NOTES Supple and nutty, it has a spruce bark, the almost liquid interior holes and a smooth, buttery taste.
long, tender aftertaste of alpine flowers hints of farmyards, meadow flowers, There is also sometimes a subtle
and freshly cut hay. Its flavors intensify and white wine, with a woody tang. fragrance of the smoke that drifts into
when the cheese is melted. the storeroom from the farmer’s fire.
HOW TO ENJOY Spoon direct from the box,
HOW TO ENJOY At its best in fondue au or make a little hole in the rind, pour HOW TO ENJOY Perfect sustenance for
vacherin, made with three vacherins of in some white wine, and put the whole walking and hiking, enjoyed with dried
different ages—like the best-ever box in the oven at 425°F (220°C) for pork or venison sausage, particularly
cheese soup. Pair with Pinot Noir. 30 minutes. Serve with a dry white. with the local Merlot wine.
DENMARK
PRODUCED
LITHUANIA
THROUGHOUT
THE COUNTRY Esrom ★ Key
Bla Castello, ★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses
Danablu Produced only here
Danbo
Produced throughout the region
Havarti
DENMARK
DENMARK
spicy accents of blue veins, an aroma crumbly, moist texture, and a full flavor aroma. The pliable interior is spattered
that hints of mushrooms, and a flavor that is fresh with a sharp, salty, almost with small holes, and the taste is
that develops steadily but never metallic blue bite and creamy finish. slightly sweet and nutty.
becomes too strong.
HOW TO ENJOY A cheese-board stalwart, HOW TO ENJOY This breakfast cheese is
HOW TO ENJOY Ideal for younger palates, it pairs well with grapes, apples, or also great for sandwiches and for
and goes nicely with bread and, of tomatoes, or try it with olives and general snacking. It partners well with
course, Danish crispbread. Matches pickles. It needs a slightly sweet wine dark breads such as pumpernickel, and
well with Danish beer. or hoppy ale to offset its salty tang. beers, apple juice, and ciders.
TASTING NOTES Pale lemon with small “Havarthi,” after her farm. traditional Viking meeting place.
holes, Esrom is sweet and buttery; it
becomes more pungent with age, while TASTING NOTES Sweet, mellow, and very TASTING NOTES Mild and buttery when
still retaining its sweetness. Some creamy, it has a buttery aroma that young, as it ages, Samsø develops a
styles are made with garlic or pepper. becomes sharper and saltier with hints sweet-sour pungency and distinct
of hazelnut. Some contain caraway seeds. hazelnut flavors.
HOW TO ENJOY It is ideal in a traditional
Danish open sandwich, or eaten with HOW TO ENJOY A great snacking cheese, HOW TO ENJOY Perfect for a fondue,
cold cuts of hams and charcuterie. it is ideal for Danish open sandwiches, melted on top of grilled potatoes, or
slicing and broiling, or adding to salads. sliced on a chunk of rye bread.
N O R WAY
a pungent tang reminiscent of aged TASTING NOTES This is not to everyone’s supple, sweeter, and less nutty, with a
Camembert or Danish Blue. Its taste, but Norwegians love its sweet fermenting fruit tang to the finish.
brownish-yellow interior is flecked caramel and peanut butter flavors as
with erratic, uneven streaks of blue. well as its unique aromatic, goaty taste. HOW TO ENJOY Try it sliced in salads
or as a party snack. This versatile
HOW TO ENJOY An after-dinner favorite, HOW TO ENJOY Gjetost is traditionally cheese is also great in sandwiches
robust enough to be enjoyed with strong eaten thinly shaved on flatbread, or with smoked ham, melted on toast,
digestives such as schnapps or grappa. with spiced fruitcake at Christmas. or served with crudités.
HOW TO ENJOY Nökkelost adds a warm HOW TO ENJOY An excellent dessert HOW TO ENJOY Crumble over salads or
spiciness to tarts and baked vegetables, cheese when young, especially when it mix with extra virgin olive oil and
or serve simply with fresh apples and is served with fresh summer berries. balsamic vinegar to make a piquant
pears, pumpernickel, and beer. It tastes more mellow when it is grilled salad dressing. Serve with a hoppy
or baked. beer or local schnapps.
NORWAY All over NORWAY Vestlandet (Western Norway) SWEDEN All over
Age 12 weeks Age 12–15 weeks Age 8–12 weeks
Weight and Shape Various Weight and Shape 7lb (3.25kg); wheel Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2.5kg), drum
Size Various Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 2–3in (5–7cm) Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 4in (10cm)
248 Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow
Classification Flavor-added Classification Semi-soft Classification Blue
Producer Tine Producer Tine Producer Various
Grevéost Herrgårdsost Hushållsost
Commercially produced and based on Created in the early 20th century as a Hushållsost means “household cheese”
Emmental (see pp242–43), Grevéost local alternative to Gruyère (see p285), in Swedish, and with more than
has a pale yellow, dense interior with Herrgårdsost gets its name from the 700 years of history behind it, it is
holes of irregular size and shape. Swedish for “manor house.” Although one of the country’s best-known and
Produced in large wheels, and a “light” based on Gruyère, it is softer and more most-used cheeses. Unlike many
variety, this cheese plays a daily role in supple, with smaller round holes. Swedish cheeses, it is made
Swedish cooking because its mild, sweet unashamedly with whole milk.
flavor appeals to young and old alike. TASTING NOTES The pale yellow interior
has a thin rind that is most often TASTING NOTES Mild and creamy, with
TASTING NOTES Sweet and nutty, it is firm waxed. Nutty and with a taste similar a straw-colored interior, Hushållsost
SWEDEN
to the bite, with a dense and pliable to mild cheddar, its zingy tang has a lemon-fresh finish, an open
texture, but it lacks Emmental’s depth. intensifies with age. texture with small irregular holes,
and a barely formed rind.
HOW TO ENJOY Spread brioche with HOW TO ENJOY Like Gruyère, this is an
butter and fill with thin slices of the excellent eating and cooking cheese. HOW TO ENJOY Popular as part of the
cheese and smoked ham. Also works Try it with pickled gherkins, to traditional breakfast buffet, it is also
well as a snack, melted, or grated into accentuate its tangy character, and great for sandwiches, pizzas, tarts, and
béchamel-type sauces. match with a fruity white wine. even melted on top of casseroles.
FINLAND
TASTING NOTES
interior is floppy and squeaky on the has a barely formed rind and small, It has a savory tang liked grilled
palate, with hints of coconut, pineapple, irregular holes. cheddar on the finish, like a delicious
sweet milk, and eggs. but slightly rubbery omelet.
HOW TO ENJOY Like many Scandinavian
HOW TO ENJOY Rarely found outside cheeses, it is served at breakfast, sliced HOW TO ENJOY Like most Scandinavian
Finland, where it is grilled and served on rye bread, or melted over toast. cheeses, it is served at breakfast or with
with fruit jam for breakfast, or dropped slices of smoked ham and cold meats.
into a cup of coffee but not consumed.
MONTENEGRO Kaseri ★
MACEDONIA
PRODUCED
THROUGHOUT Tulum
ADRIATIC SEA THE COUNTRY
Kashkaval GREECE
ALBANIA
PRODUCED Galotiri ★ AEGEAN SEA
THROUGHOUT
THE COUNTRY Kaseri ★
Kaçkavalli PRODUCED THROUGHOUT
THE COUNTRY Kaseri ★
Anthotyros ★,
Galotiri ★ Feta ★,
BOSNIA& Kefalotyri ★,
HERZEGOVINA Manouri,
Myzithra
Graviera ★
IONIAN SEA
Graviera ★
KRÌTI
N
200 miles
200 km
GREECE In Greek mythology, Apollo’s son Aristaeus presented a gift of “everlasting
value” to the Greeks: the secret of making cheese, which was the food of the gods.
Records of Greek cheesemaking can be traced back as far as the 10th century BCE,
and today, Greeks eat more cheese per head than the French or Italians.
The variety of mountain and maritime natural pastures plus the sun-kissed
climate provide ideal conditions for the tenacious native goats and hardy sheep that
provide the milk for some of the world’s oldest and greatest cheeses.
EASTERN EUROPE From 552 CE, Eastern Europe’s borders changed frequently and
numerous forces occupied the region, which led to a melting pot of culinary influences,
from Roman to Russian and Turkish to Central Asian. As a result, borders are blurred
and cheeses with similar names and recipes are found throughout the region.
When postwar Communism led to mass production, small producers all but died
out, but since the Iron Curtain dropped, artisan cheesemakers have reemerged. The
Eastern European dairy industry is now thriving, with many small traditional
creameries producing a variety of European and local cheeses.
ISRAEL AND THE NEAR EAST Although archaeological sites dating from 7000 BCE
show signs that domestication of the then-evolving sheep and goat population could
have led to the development of the first cheeses for this region, the harsh climate
BLACK SEA prevented the creation of the sophisticated cheeses that were seen in Europe.
In the 1980s, interest in cheese beyond just fresh and salted or dried styles started
a new wave of artisan and industrial cheeses. European-trained cheesemakers were
able to upgrade the quality and awareness of traditional cheeses and produce
European-style cheeses.
Tulum
TURKEY
PRODUCED
THROUGHOUT
THE COUNTRY
Beyaz Peynir
SYRIA
LEBANON
PRODUCED
CYPRUS THROUGHOUT
THE COUNTRY
PRODUCED
THROUGHOUT Akkawi
THE COUNTRY
Anari,
Halloumi
Key
Turkeez ★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses
Produced only here
Inbar Produced throughout the region
PRODUCED
ISRAEL THROUGHOUT
Ketem THE COUNTRY
Labane,
Zfatit
MEDITERRANEAN SEA
GREECE
small quantities of milk and cream. depending on the season. Graviera ewe’s). It is an aged pasta filata or
It is widely available throughout from Krìti (Crete) is made using ewe’s stretched curd cheese, similar to Italian
Greece as a soft or a hard cheese. milk and some goat, while Graviera provolone, which gives it a stringy
from Naxos is made with cow’s milk texture when cooked.
TASTING NOTES When fresh it is creamy with a little ewe or goat.
and lemony with a unique floral taste; TASTING NOTES Firm but supple with no
when aged it develops gray molds and TASTING NOTES The Cretan Graviera is rind, it becomes elastic when cooked.
is dry with a stronger, salty tang and sweet and fruity like Emmental, with Quite salty, yet slightly sweet and
a hint of smoke on the finish. a delicate fragrance and burnt caramel pungent, with a dry feel in the mouth.
finish. The Naxos version is richer,
HOW TO ENJOY Traditionally used in creamier, and more nutty. HOW TO ENJOY A table cheese that is
savory or sweet pastries; when aged, great for melting. Try on top of pita
it is grated over hot savory dishes. It HOW TO ENJOY A classic all-around table bread and smothered in fresh vine-
is especially tasty when paired with cheese that can also be baked in tomato pulp and olives for your own
fresh figs. cheese pastries. Greek-style pizza.
GREECE All over GREECE Naxos and Krìti GREECE Thessalia, Mitilini island, and Xanthi
Age A couple of days up to 12 months Age 3–5 months Age 12 weeks
Weight and Shape 12oz (350g), ball or Weight and Shape 41⁄2–171⁄2lb (2–8kg), Weight and Shape 2–20lb (1–9kg), wheel
truncated cone drum Size Various
256 Size Various Size Various Milk Ewe and goat
Milk Ewe and goat Milk Ewe, goat, or cow Classification Semi-soft
Classification Fresh and aged fresh Classification Hard Producer Various
Producer Various Producer Various
Galotiri DOC
Galotiri is one of the oldest Greek
cheeses. It is predominantly made with
ewe’s milk, typically for household
consumption rather than on a
commercial scale. The fresh curds from
successive days are placed in barrels and
sealed with fat or hung from the rafters
in sacks to drain until needed. If mold
grows, it is scraped off to enable the whey
to escape and the cheese to breathe.
GREECE
also has a herbaceous tang as it finishes,
which is reminiscent of olive oil. HOW TO ENJOY Its low salt content
means it is used in savory and sweet Myzithra
HOW TO ENJOY Traditionally used in the dishes, particularly pastries such as
classic Greek dish saganaki, where spanakopita, a baked spinach and Made for thousands of years from
thick slices are fried, sometimes cheese filo pastry pie, or sweet pastries, whey of feta and Kefalotyri, Myzithra
covered in egg and bread crumbs, and or simply served drizzled with honey. is considered the ancestor of all Greek
served with a squeeze of lemon. whey cheeses. It comes in two types:
fresh Myzithra is unsalted or slightly
GREECE All over GREECE All over
salty and similar to cottage cheese,
Age 3–4 months Age From a few days
while aged is dry, salty, and firm.
Weight and Shape 13–171⁄2lb (6–8kg), Weight and Shape 1lb (500g), log
drum Size L. 91⁄2in (25cm) H. 3in (7cm)
TASTING NOTES Mild and refreshing when
Size Various Milk Ewe or goat
fresh, it has a nuttier and more salty 257
Milk Ewe, and ewe and goat Classification Fresh taste when aged and a dusty, gray
Classification Hard Producer Various moldy rind.
Producer Various
HOW TO ENJOY Fresh Myzithra makes
deliciously light sweet or savory dishes,
while the dried version is ideal for
grating over savory dishes such as
pasta and pastries.
and endlessly patient sheep grazing marjoram, and pine are captured and
the steep rugged hills and rock- concentrated in the tiny fat globules
strewn pastures, it is easy to see why in the milk.
the comfort-loving cow never made
Greece its home. No pesticides, insect TASTING NOTES Firm and compact
repellents, or other pollutants are yet easily crumbled, it has no rind and
used, and you can still catch the a myriad of small holes. Very white if
sound and a glimpse of the herds made with pure goat’s milk, it has a
passing through small villages on the very fresh taste that hints of wild
way to new pastures. herbs, white wine, and a slightly goaty
tang. Ewe’s-milk feta feels a bit richer
and creamier and is more ivory white. Feta is usually cut into small blocks and
vacuum-packed in a little brine. Originally,
The taste is reminiscent of roast lamb,
shepherds who lived far from the sea where salt
lamb fat, and lanolin. Both have a salt was bought would store their cheeses in olive oil.
tang on the finish and a depth of flavor
from the grazing.
GREECE
259
Block of cheese
Romania, where they make around by the Greeks. Similar cheeses are The curds are pressed into beautiful,
23 varieties. It is similar in style to the made throughout Eastern Europe hand-crafted wooden molds, giving
Italian cheese Caciocavallo. Its color using cow, goat, or ewe’s milk. each a unique identity, then stored in
varies from pale yellow to yellow- the eaves of the house, where they
brown, and it has a natural thin rind. TASTING NOTES Similar to feta, but softer, absorb smoke from the fire below.
spreadable, and not as salty. It has a
TASTING NOTES It is flexible and crumbly, lemony acidity and ranges from soft to TASTING NOTES Smoky and slightly salty,
with a salty, sharp, almost bitter taste. firm and crumbly, depending on its age with a caramel taste from the milk. The
There is also a hint of caramelized and the type of milk used. rind ranges from a pale straw color to a
onions in the aftertaste. deep orange-brown, depending on the
HOW TO ENJOY Spread on warm grainy age and smoking.
HOW TO ENJOY Traditionally a table bread or crumble over baby salad
cheese, it can be fried, baked in pastry leaves and tomatoes. Served as part of HOW TO ENJOY It combines well with
dishes, or grated over vegetables. the traditional dish bryndzové halušky cured meats as well as sausages, and
(potato dumplings with Bryndza). is used extensively in local dishes.
CYPRUS
Beyaz Peynir Tulum Anari
Known as “white cheese,” this feta-like One of the world’s oldest cheeses, Anari is made using whey from
cheese is made and consumed in large Tulum is made by packing specially halloumi, plus some goat or ewe’s milk
quantities all over Turkey. The recipe cured goatskins with fresh curd over a to improve the texture and taste.
varies slightly from place to place, period of weeks. The skins are stitched Traditionally, if it is not consumed
and it can be made from ewe, goat, or up and left to age for three months, fresh, it is salted and dried in the
cow’s milk. before being slit open for the cheese to warm, dry air—which today happens
TURKEY All over TURKEY Eastern Anatolia and Aegean regions CYPRUS All over
Age Minimum of 3 months Age From 3 months Age From a few days to a few months
Weight and Shape 9oz–21⁄4lb (250g–1kg), Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–1lb 5oz Weight and Shape Various
various (500–600g); pots or blocks Size Various, L. 4in (10cm), W. 4in (10cm),
Size Various Size Various, L. 4in (10cm), W. 4in (10cm), H. 4in (10cm) 261
Milk Ewe, goat, or cow H. 4in (10cm) Milk Goat and ewe
Classification Fresh Milk Ewe, goat, or a mixture Classification Fresh
Producer Various Classification Fresh Producer Various
Producer Various
Halloumi A CLOSER LOOK
Halloumi is not unlike the Italian
Born out of a need to preserve milk and provide protein during the pasta filata cheeses, which are
winter months when the sheep and goats stopped producing milk, stretched. Halloumi is in fact
kneaded, but it produces a
halloumi was, and still is, a vital part of the Cypriot diet. similar texture.
What gives halloumi its place in cow’s milk since it is not seasonal
culinary history is not only its and is less expensive; however, this
ability to keep its shape and not melt does impact the taste.
when cooked, but the source of its Cyprus has applied for PDO
milk, the amazing Mouflon breed of status, which is expected to be
sheep, which were introduced during confirmed in a few years.
the Neolithic period and over
thousands of years adapted to TASTING NOTES Salty and
their environment and became an tangy with a bouncy texture but, when
integral part of the community. cooked, the milk sugars or lactose in
Sadly, they are now considered an the cheese caramelize on the outside,
endangered species, although in giving it a sweet onion taste, while the
other parts of the world they are texture is supple, springy, and squeaky.
EASTERN EUROPE AND THE NEAR EAST
bred for hunting and sport. The flavor varies according to the
Handsome-looking, they have a seasons and type of milk used. The
red-brown rough coat and striking best are made with raw goat’s and HEATING Traditionally, raw goat’s or
ewe’s milk during the spring and ewe’s milk, or a combination of both, was
thick spiral horns that arch back
heated in a cauldron. Today, some cow’s
over their heads. summer months when the free-ranging milk is usually mixed in and pasteurized
Some halloumi is still made animals graze on a myriad of wild in stainless steel vats.
traditionally in rural areas, but flowers, herbs, grasses, and bushes
following huge international demand, that cover the rocky island.
most is now produced in factories.
Although they adhere to the HOW TO ENJOY The main
traditional recipe using goat’s and ingredient in a Cypriot breakfast,
ewe’s milk, most mix it with some appetizer, or lunch, halloumi is usually
served alongside fresh fruit, such as
melon and figs, or with vegetables.
It is one of the few cheeses that do not
melt when heated, thanks to its
unique texture, and is excellent cut
into thick slices and barbecued or
262 fried as an appetizer.
It is essential not to use oil
when frying halloumi, since oil
seals the cheese and stops the
milk sugars from escaping,
causing the cheese to lose its
sweet caramel flavor.
The Mouflon sheep, introduced during the
Neolithic period.
CYPRUS
or grilling.
263
Akkawi ISRAEL
Inbar Ketem
Very similar to feta, Akkawi is After a visit to a Swiss dairy, Michal Daniel and Anat Kornmehl, as part
sometimes soaked in water to remove Melamed became fascinated with of a new generation of Israeli
the salt so it can be used in sweet cheese making. She and her husband cheesemakers, have created a range of
EASTERN EUROPE AND THE NEAR EAST
dishes. Its name originates from Acre, then moved to the Galilee, where they European-style goat cheeses in the
the port town. It is still made in many built their dairy in Kibbutz Reshafim Negev desert. Ketem (“spot” in English)
homes, but increasingly it is made to make sheep and goat cheese. Inbar is based on the much-loved French
commercially in Europe for the is a tribute to Alpine-style cheeses. cheese Pelardon (see p73).
Arab market.
TASTING NOTES Firm yet supple with TASTING NOTES Beneath its wrinkled
TASTING NOTES Very white and firm with a hard, dry rind and delicate, yet white rind, it is firm yet creamy and
some small holes and a fresh, salty aromatic, slightly nutty taste. Also made melts in your mouth. When young it is
taste. It feels slightly fatty when made flavored with black pepper, thyme, red distinctly goaty but mild; once mature
with cow’s milk. wine, mustard seeds, or chili pepper. it is strong, aromatic, sharp, and very
stormy in character.
HOW TO ENJOY It is very versatile and is HOW TO ENJOY Good on a cheese board,
a staple ingredient of many Lebanese or slice thinly for sandwiches. Grate HOW TO ENJOYBest served as part of a
and Middle Eastern dishes, from salads and melt in vegetable dishes. cheese board, but it is also good grilled
to pastries, or simply as a snack. or baked.
LEBANON All over ISRAEL Kibbutz Reshafim, Emek ISRAEL Tlalim, Ramat HaNegev
Age 1–3 months Hama’ayanot Age 2–3 weeks
Weight and Shape Various, blocks Age From 2 months Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (160g), square
1
Size L. 41⁄2–6in (11–15cm), W. 4–6in Weight and Shape 4 ⁄2lb (2kg), round Size L. 4in (10cm), W. 4in (10cm),
264 (10–15cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 3–4in (7–8cm) H. 1in (3cm)
Milk Ewe or cow Milk Ewe Milk Goat
Classification Fresh Classification Flavor-added Classification Aged fresh
Producer Various Producer Shirat Roim Dairy Producer Kornmehl Family Dairy
Labane Turkeez Zfatit
Found throughout the Middle East, The Barkanit family dairy, established A popular Israeli cheese, Zfatit was
labane or labneh is made by draining in 1978, was one of the first in Israel. first made in Safed (Hebrew, Zfat) in
thick, whole-milk yogurt overnight in The family learned their skills in the 19th century by the Hame’iry
cloth and is made in many households Europe, and this attractive cheese, family. It is now made in small baskets
for use as one of the basic ingredients made from the milk of their own sheep by various producers in Israel and
of Eastern Mediterranean cuisine. and goats that graze the pastures of around the world.
Without doubt, the best are made with Harod Valley, is one of their best.
ewe’s milk, but labane is increasingly TASTING NOTES Bearing the imprint of
made with cow’s milk. TASTING NOTES Velvety with a fresh the baskets, it is a little spongy but
acidity and a hint of salt, while the high in moisture with a silky texture.
ISRAEL
TASTING NOTES Deliciously rich and walnuts provide a crunchy, nutty The combination of milky sweetness
velvety smooth with a mildly lemony balance. With age, it has a taste and salt makes it irresistible. Often
fresh tang. Those made with ewe’s milk reminiscent of Roquefort (see pp82–83). flavored with herbs and spices.
have a lovely sweetness.
HOW TO ENJOY Good on cheese boards, or HOW TO ENJOY Best on a sunny morning
HOW TO ENJOY Traditionally eaten at break it into chunks and use in fruit with a dash of olive oil, fresh tomatoes,
breakfast or served with olive oil, fresh salads, with smoked meats, or grilled basil, grated pepper, and accompanied
local herbs, pine nuts, and pita bread. over pears. Excellent with sweet wines. by warm sourdough bread.
ISRAEL All over ISRAEL Kfar Yechezke’el, Gilboa ISRAEL All over
Age A few hours Age From a few days Age From a few days
Weight and Shape 9oz (250g) and Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz and 1lb 2oz Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), round
1lb 2oz (500g), pots (150g and 500g), truncated cone Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 2in (5cm)
Size No size Size D. 4in and 8in (10cm and 20cm), H. 3in Milk Cow
265
Milk Cow, ewe, goat, or a mixture and 6in (7cm and 15cm)
Classification Fresh
Classification Fresh Milk Ewe and goat
Producer Various
Producer Various Classification Fresh
Producer Barkanit Dairy
Alaska
COLORADO
Cornelia, St. Jorge
Mt. Tam, Tulare Cannonball NEVADA
Hawaii Point Reyes Original Blue, Pozo Tomme
Red Hawk Midcoast Teleme
Humbolt Fog
UNITED STATES
HAWAII
Surfing Goat
CALIFORNIA
Monterey Jack OF AMERICA
O’AHU Dairy Quark
KAUA’I Bubalus Bubalis Mozzarella di Bufala
MAUI
Winchester Super Aged Gouda
Big Island Feta NEW MEXICO
PACIFIC ARIZONA
PACIFIC OCEAN
HAWAII OCEAN
TEXAS
THE AMERICAS
USA Cheesemaking in North America began when the early settlers in the 17th century brought
with them the skills of dairy farming and preserving milk in the form of butter and cheese. As more
European settlers arrived, the range of cheeses made increased, with Spanish-, Dutch-, Swiss-,
French-, English-, and Italian-style cheeses all gaining popularity. It wasn’t until the mid-1800s that
commercial production of cheese began, particularly in Wisconsin, “America’s Dairyland,” with its vast,
lush pastures and ideal climate for milk production. Nowadays, across the United States, there are
hundreds of factories and large producers creating copies of the European classics alongside hundreds
of artisan cheesemakers making cheeses as unique and original as the makers and the landscape.
VERMONT
MAINE
Shelburne Cheddar
Vaquero Blue
Bayley Hazen Blue,
Constant Bliss,
VERMONT Winnimere
Cabot Clothbound Grafton Cheddar
NEW
Coupole HAMPSHIRE
Bourrée Blythedale Farm Camembert
Tarentaise
Soft Wheel, Tarentaise
Twig Farm Square Cheese
Vermont Ayr Ascutney Mountain Cheese
NEW YORK West West Blue
Dorset Vermont Shepherd
MASSACHUSETTS MAINE
City of Ships
MINNESOTA
VERMONT Rosemary’s Waltz,
Trader Lake Cedar Hubbardston Blue R&R Cheddar
NEW HAMPSHIRE
Kunik
WISCONSIN American Grana Battenkill Brebis MASSACHUSETTS
Ocooch Mountain Ewe’s Blue Great Hill Blue
Mona Alpine
Bad Axe NEW YORK RHODE ISLAND
Big Woods Blue Cave Aged Marisa MICHIGAN Green Peppercorn Chevre , Brigid’s Abbey,
Chèvre in Blue Triple Cream Wheel Hooligan
Pleasant Ridge Reserve Bleu Mont Cheddar Eden CONNECTICUT
Gruyère Surchoix Grand Queso
Bridgewater Round Tumbleweed
IOWA PENNSLYVANIA
5 Spoke Creamery Browning Gold
Telford Reserve
NEW JERSEY
Maytag Blue OHIO
Frisian Farms Mature Gouda INDIANA Mountain Top Bleu DELAWARE
ILLINOIS WEST
Huckleberry Blue Old Kentucky Tome, VIRGINIA
Wabash Cannonball MARYLAND
Dirt Lover Everona Piedmont
KANSAS VIRGINIA
MISSOURI
Appalachian,
KENTUCKY Grayson
Awe Brie
NORTH CAROLINA
TENNESSEE
OKLAHOMA
Clemson Blue
ARKANSAS
Belle Chèvre SOUTH
CAROLINA
ALABAMA GEORGIA
ATLANTIC OCEAN
Blanca Bianca, LOUISIANA
Thomasville Tomme
Hoja Santa
MISSISSIPPI
Hopelessly Bleu
GULF OF MEXICO
N
FLORIDA Key
200 miles ★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses
Produced only here
200 km Produced throughout the region
CANADA Canada’s cheese history dates back to 1635, when
French colonists first produced cheese. Throughout the centuries,
immigrants from Europe, the Middle East, and even India brought
with them their favorite recipes, adding diversity and complexity to
the variety of cheeses.
Until the 1990s, most cheeses were made on small farms for local
consumption or in huge factories that produced blocks of strong
cheddar. The renaissance of artisan cheesemakers, who used cow’s,
goat’s, and ewe’s milk, led Canadians to discover and voice their ARCTIC OCEAN
pride in their country’s exceptional cheeses. Nearly 200 cheese
companies exist today, which reflects increasing consumption.
Key
★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses
Produced only here
Produced throughout the region
BEAUFORT SEA
BA
FF
IN
BA
Y
YUKON
TERRITORY
NUNAVUT LABRADOR SEA
NORTHWEST
TERRITORIES
NEWFOUNDLAND
QUEEN
CHARLOTTE
ISLANDS
CANADA HUDSON BAY
NEWFOUNDLAND
PRODUCED QUÉBEC
THROUGHOUT AND LABRADOR
ALBERTA THE COUNTRY Avonlea Clothbound Cheddar
Cheddar Curds Sieur de Duplessis
Le Paillasson de I’isle d’Orléans
BRITISH MANITOBA Bouquetin de Portneuf,
COLUMBIA La Sauvagine
SASKAT- ONTARIO
Baby Blue Old Grizzly CHEWAN
Le Délice des Appalaches
Harvest Moon Le Cendré des Prés Allegretto
VANCOUVER PRINCE
Le Sabot de Blanchette
ISLAND EDWARD
La Barre du Jour, ISLAND
PACIFIC OCEAN
500 km
ATLANTIC OCEAN
MEXICO The history of Mexican cheese can be traced back to
16th-century Spanish conquistadors, who introduced cattle, goats,
and sheep to Mexico, along with the agricultural practices required
for their successful husbandry. Many Mexican cheeses have
Spanish influences, but some mimic Portuguese and Italian styles.
MEXICO
GULF OF
SOUTH AMERICA On a continent famous for beef rather than
MEXICO
dairy, production of cheese has until recently been limited. Due to
the influence of Spanish, Portuguese, and Italian immigrants,
PRODUCED however, the numerous acres of natural grazing were finally put to
THROUGHOUT
THE COUNTRY use in making cheese an important part of the diet and economy.
Queso Anejo,
Queso Blanco,
Queso Fresco Key
CENTRAL ★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses
AMERICA CARIBBEAN SEA Produced only here
Produced throughout the region
GUYANA
VENEZUELA SURINAME
FRENCH GUIANA
COLUMBIA
ECUADOR
SOUTH
N
AMERICA
PERU
BRAZIL
BOLIVIA
PACIFIC OCEAN
PARAGUAY
Queijo Minas
Requeijão Cremoso
URUGUAY
800 miles
CHILE
800 km ARGENTINA
PRODUCED
THROUGHOUT
THE COUNTRY
Sardo
ATLANTIC OCEAN
USA
TASTING NOTES A rinded, mountain-style alongside hints of citrus and pine nut.
organic cheese made from rich, sweet The finish is a complex and creamy TASTING NOTES Made in huge rounds
golden milk. As the cheese ages, its taste on the palate. that are matured on wooden shelves in
supple texture and buttery, mellow taste special caves. Hard and grainy with a
becomes nutty, more complex and firm. HOW TO ENJOY Sprinkle over fresh salad sweet, nutty flavor that intensifies
greens with green grapes, roasted with age.
HOW TO ENJOY It melts superbly and almonds, and toasted crostini. Enjoy
makes a perfect snack. Pair with a with a chilled glass of Roussanne. HOW TO ENJOY Eat on its own or use for
mild, younger red wine or a dry, not grating. Pair with a strong beer or
too sharp white. your favorite red.
USA Ghent, New York USA Alsea, Oregon USA Green Bay, Wisconsin
Age Regular 6–8 months; Aged 12-plus Age From a few days Age 18–24 months
months Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), tubs Weight and Shape 70lb (32kg), drum
Weight and Shape 8–22lb (3.6–10kg), Size No size Size D. 141⁄2in (37cm), H. 8in (20cm)
270 wheel
Milk Goat Milk Cow
Size D. 9–12in (23–30cm), H. 4in (10cm)
Classification Fresh Classification Hard
Milk Cow, organic
Producers Alsea Acre Producer BelGioioso
Classification Hard
Producer Hawthorne Valley Farm
Andante Dairy Picolo Appalachian Appel Farms Cheddar
The cheesemakers at California’s Meadow Creek Dairy, located in the Handmade at Appel Family’s Farm in
Andante Dairy are inspired by the mountainous southwest of Virginia, Washington State using the cheddaring
various musical tempos of the draws inspiration from various technique of authentic English cheddar
cheesemaking process. This luxurious traditional European cheeses. (see p178–79). The milk comes from a
triple-cream cheese combines Jersey Appalachian broadly resembles a large herd of cows fed on grass and corn
milk and crème fraîche. French tomme (see pp89–91). silage grown on the farm. They also make
feta, Gouda, and yogurt, which they sell
TASTING NOTES Made with fresh farm TASTING NOTES The flavor is very delicate in their farm store.
cow’s milk, Picolo has a pleasantly and raw with strong vegetal notes and
tart and sweet taste inspired by spring. a spicy finish. The texture is dense and TASTING NOTES Aged a minimum of
When properly aged, it melts in chewy with a musty strong aroma. 3 months, the flavors go from mild to
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the mouth. sharp to extra sharp, a bit like raw onion.
HOW TO ENJOY Appalachian melts well, Also available with garlic and dill, black
HOW TO ENJOY Drizzle wedges of Picolo making it the perfect cooking cheese. pepper, and bacon.
with citrus honey and accompany with However, the flavor is robust enough to
a sweet baguette and a glass of serve the cheese on its own. HOW TO ENJOY Excellent in a homemade
sparkling Prosecco. macaroni and cheese, paired with a
fine Pilsner.
TASTING NOTESLoosely based on alpine disc has a firm yet flaky texture, with a
cheeses, Ascutney Mountain is not cream-white center that has a subtle TASTING NOTES The cheese is ripened
quite as dense but still has a firm goaty taste and nutty overtones. for 60 days. Its snow-white exterior
texture. The mild initial flavor develops conceals a golden interior that has
toward a pineapple-like sweet and HOW TO ENJOY Match with a hearty a silky texture and robust flavor.
sour finish. Cabernet, and serve with a seasonal
fresh fruit platter and warm, crunchy, HOW TO ENJOY In honor of its Kentucky
HOW TO ENJOYThe sweet taste favors a sweet baguettes. roots, a bourbon and fresh pear slices
good hoppy beer, like an IPA, and some are the perfect marriage to serve
savory chutney. alongside a cheese board of Awe Brie.
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cheese with a nutty flavor, the rub and Supple and dense with herbaceous The blue is upfront and slightly
sweet Jersey milk impart hints of notes when young; aged, it is sweet peppery, while the cheese’s finish is
butterscotch, caramel, and coffee. and tastes of Brazil nuts. long and creamy.
HOW TO ENJOY This is ideal paired with a HOW TO ENJOY Serve with fresh bread or HOW TO ENJOY Complemented well by
sturdy, crusty whole-wheat bread. grilled or grated on salads, soups, or Port or sweet wines, it is best served as
pasta. Pair with a light beer. part of a cheese board.
USA Uintah, Utah USA Shushan, New York USA Greensboro, Vermont
Age 3–4 months Age 4–18 months Age 4–6 months
Weight and Shape 9–11lb (4.1–5kg), Weight and Shape 6lb (2.7kg), round Weight and Shape 4lb (1.8kg), drum
wheel Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 5–6in (12–15cm) Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 9in (23cm)
Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Milk Ewe Milk Cow
273
Milk Cow Classification Hard Classification Blue
Classification Flavor-added Producer 3 Corner Field Farm Producer Jasper Hill Farm
Producer Beehive Cheese Company
Beechers Flagship Belle Chèvre Bellwether Farms
Reserve Located in Elkmont, Alabama, Crescenza
In 2003, Kurt Beecher followed his Fromagerie Belle Chèvre is among This cheese is modeled on the famous
passion for artisan cheeses and opened relatively few cheesemakers in the Italian cheese Crescenza (see p116),
Beecher’s shop in the heart of Seattle’s southern United States. Nonetheless, right down to its traditional square
Pike Place Market. Eight years later, he the creamery has gathered more shape, but with a twist of California
opened a new cheesemaking “kitchen,” than 50 awards over the years for its coastal sea breeze flavor.
café, and restaurant in the heart of New fresh goat cheeses.
York, using the produce of local herds TASTING NOTES Handmade and sent to
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from southern Albany. TASTING NOTES This traditional French- market at 1 week of age, it is milky
style chèvre is very rich and smooth, white and high in moisture. The rich
TASTING NOTES A traditionally made with a tangy flavor and a distinct Jersey milk gives it a creamy flavor
Cheddar (see pp178–79), it is aged for at herbaceous finish. balanced by a pleasant tartness and
least 16 months. Dense, chewy, with bold, yeasty finish.
savory notes and a sharp, lingering tang. HOW TO ENJOY Marries well with almost
any preserve, and perfect for any recipe HOW TO ENJOY Dollop a spoonful of
HOW TO ENJOY Serve with a sourdough that calls for fresh chèvre. Alternatively, homemade apricot compote over the
loaf, along with your favorite beer or serve plain with almonds, walnuts, and top, serve with crunchy fresh baguette,
a robust red. a crisp white wine. and pair with a crisp Pinot Blanc.
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shoots to macadamia tree leaves. veterans. The robust and only slightly with sweet floral tastes. While not a
salty cheese melts in the mouth like particularly powerful washed-rind
HOW TO ENJOY Create a Hawaiian salad milk chocolate. cheese when young, it develops a strong
with toasted whole macadamia nuts, but pleasing punch as it matures.
freshly picked spinach, and sweet island HOW TO ENJOY The complexity of this
pineapple, and serve with a chilled cheese deserves to be matched with HOW TO ENJOY Try with dark walnut
Kona Brewing Big Wave golden ale. a great vintage port. raisin bread and a light beer.
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TASTING NOTES With a very pleasant and TASTING NOTES While possessing the TASTING NOTES Although it is a washed-
tasty element of freshly turned earth, typical rich, creamy flavor you would rind cheese, its aroma is relatively mild
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this handmade clothbound cheddar expect in a Camembert-style cheese, it and floral. The texture is smooth, rich,
has a medium-strong flavor with good has a softer and wetter rind, as well as and somewhat sticky on the palate,
grassy notes and a nice lingering finish. a tarter initial flavor. with a peanut-like flavor that grows
more intense as it finishes.
HOW TO ENJOY Savor on its own with HOW TO ENJOY Use to make a great ham
some chutney and dried figs or dates. and Camembert sandwich on a baguette, HOW TO ENJOY Bourrée is best served
or serve with crackers and Champagne. with a strong ale and some chutney.
USA Blue Mounds, Wisconsin USA Corinth, Vermont USA Bridport, Vermont
Age 12–18 months Age 4 weeks Age 3 months
Weight and Shape 8lb (3.6kg), drum Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), round Weight and Shape 1lb (450g), round
Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 2in (5cm)
Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow 277
Classification Hard Classification Soft white Classification Semi-soft
Producer Bleu Mont Dairy Producer Blythedale Farm Producer Dancing Cow Farmstead Cheese
Bridgewater Round Cabot Clothbound Cave Aged Marisa
Zingerman’s has firmly built its Cabot Creamery can trace its origins Sid Cooke is the master cheesemaker
ever-growing reputation on selling back to 1919, when a cooperative of at the helm of this large Wisconsin
excellent, flavorsome, traditionally 94 local farmers was formed in Vermont. creamery, which produces dozens of
made foods, including a huge range of This raw milk cheese, a handmade varieties of cheese, yet crafts each one
cheeses, and educating and inspiring traditional bandaged cheddar (see with great care and attention. The
their staff and customers alike. So it pp178–79), is cave-aged in the cellars majority is made with cow’s milk, but
was almost inevitable that it would at Jasper Hill Farm. this one uses ewe’s milk.
turn its hand to cheesemaking.
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USA Ann Arbor, Michigan USA Montpelier, Vermont USA La Valle, Wisconsin
Age 4–8 weeks Age 12 months or more Age 6 months
Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), round Weight and Shape 12lb (5.4kg), cylinder Weight and Shape 6lb (2.7kg), round
Size Various Size D. 18in (46cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 4in (10cm)
278 Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Ewe
Classification Soft white Classification Hard Classification Hard
Producer Zingerman’s Producer Cabot Creamery Cooperative Producer Carr Valley Cheese Company
Chèvre in Blue City of Ships Clemson Blue
Established in 1988, MontChevre offers This small producer keeps her business Produced at Clemson University,
outstanding cheeses at great prices local, buying milk from nearby farms Clemson Blue dates back to 1941, when
while promoting sustainable farming. and supplying cheese to local outlets, the cheese was aged in an abandoned
It is the largest goat cheese producer in but the high-quality milk and expert railroad tunnel under Stumphouse
North America, with milk suppliers in ripening make this worth seeking out. Mountain. Since the late 1950s, the
Wisconsin and Iowa. Their cheeses are entire making and ripening process has
natural, with no additives. TASTING NOTES Highly complex flavors taken place on campus.
cover the full range of senses. Initially
TASTING NOTES The deep purple streaks sweet, it yields to herbal and sea-salty TASTING NOTES The texture is medium-
stand out against the stark white, flavors, building to a strong lingering grained and slightly clumpy, but on the
crumbly interior. The herbaceous, butterscotch finish that coats the palate it quickly opens up into an
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aromatic character, derived from the tongue. The texture is tight and exceptionally smooth creaminess. Its
goat’s milk, is offset by the strong spicy chewy, with a faint crunch. medium blue flavor is well balanced
finish of the blue. against a buttermilk sweetness.
HOW TO ENJOY To savor the best of its
HOW TO ENJOY Perfect spread on your myriad flavors, serve it on its own or HOW TO ENJOY Its moderate intensity
favorite bread or cracker, or crumbled with other medium-strength cheeses allows it to be paired with both sweet
in salads. Enjoy with a sweet wine. and mild crackers with gentle textures. wines and fruitier reds such as Merlot.
USA Belmont, Wisconsin USA Phippsburg, Maine USA Clemson, South Carolina
Age 2–3 months Age 8 months Age 6 months
Weight and Shape 4lb (1.8kg), drum Weight and Shape 6lb (2.7kg), rounded Weight and Shape 2lb (900g), flat disc
Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 4in (10cm) wheel Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 1in (2.5cm)
Milk Goat Size D. 11in (28cm), H. 4in (10cm) Milk Cow
279
Classification Blue Milk Cow Classification Blue
Producer MontChevre Classification Hard Producer Clemson University
Producer Hahn’s End
Constant Bliss Cornelia Coupole
The name comes from American Made at Point Reyes Farmstead, and Allison Hooper’s cheesemaking journey
Revolutionary history and seems delivered to Murray’s Cheese in New began in the 1970s, working in France.
improbably fitting because the York, where it is matured in their By 1985 she had formed Vermont
cheese is aged just to the US legal washed-rind caves. Here, for the next Butter and Cheese Company with Bob
minimum of 60 days and offers a rare few months, the cave master works his Reese. They now make a variety of
glimpse into the world of soft raw milk magic, bringing out the cheese’s hidden award-winning dairy products. Coupole,
cheeses, typically unavailable in the character, as the great affineurs have sprinkled with ash, exhibits all the best
United States. done for centuries in Europe. qualities of a French-style goat cheese.
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TASTING NOTES The thin dry rind has a TASTING NOTES The leathery rind, dusted TASTING NOTES Soft and smooth, but not
stony aroma and slight bitterness with fine white mold, hides a supple, runny, it has just enough punch to
enveloped by the paste’s salty, buttery, almost liquid, buttery interior with tiny remind you of the goat’s milk from
almost popcorn-like flavor. With age, it holes. It has hints of cheese sauce, and which it is made, but is mild enough to
becomes soft and rich, but not runny. a roasted peanut finish. charm first-time goat-cheese tasters.
HOW TO ENJOY Feature on a cheese board HOW TO ENJOY Perfect on a cheese board HOW TO ENJOY Perfect on a cheese board,
with other premium cheeses. Even better, or with cooked meats, accompanied by or try it in a salad that includes nuts,
serve with Champagne and caviar. a medium-bodied red or Trappist beer. pears, and spicy salad greens.
USA Greensboro, Vermont USA Point Reyes Station, California USA Bare, Vermont
Age 60 days Age 6 months Age 45 days
Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), cylinder Weight and Shape 1lb (450g), round Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), dome
Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 2in (5cm)
280 Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Goat
Classification Soft white Classification Semi-soft Classification Aged fresh
Producer Jasper Hill Farm Producer Point Reyes Farmstead Producer Vermont Butter and Cheese
Dirt Lover Dorset Eden
Green Dirt Farm, northwest of Kansas Located in Champlain Valley, the dairy Located just an hour north of New York
City, Missouri, is owned by Sarah was Vermont’s first cheese cooperative, City, Sprout Creek Farm makes a wide
Hoffmann and Jacqueline Smith and founded in the 1860s by Consider variety of cheeses from its mixed herd,
provides a complexity of grazing to Stebbins Bardwell. Now it makes using traditional methods and
cope with extremes of weather, from numerous cheeses using milk from its sustainable farming practices. The milk
steep slopes to low areas of dense shade own goats and two local Jersey herds. is produced seasonally. In harmony
and water meadows. Ideal for creating with its cheesemaking ventures, the
award-winning farmstead cheeses and TASTING NOTES Lightly brine-washed, this farm also offers educational workshops
grass-fed lamb. Taleggio-style cheese with orange-pink to increase understanding of good
rind dusted with white mold has a mild farming practices.
TASTING NOTES The name refers to the farmyardy aroma. Its supple yellow
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layer of charcoal ash under the white interior is sweet and buttery, and gently TASTING NOTES Lightly washed in brine,
crust. Dense, creamy, with a hint of lanolin pungent with a meaty, beef stock finish. it has an apple tartness to its flavor,
when young, becoming richer and earthy with a long and full savory finish. The
with a lemony finish as it matures. HOW TO ENJOY It opens up at room texture is supple and chewy.
temperature and pairs well with cider,
HOW TO ENJOY Try it with a lightly oaked beer, or an aromatic white and a bowl of HOW TO ENJOY This cheese is perfect to
Chardonnay, rosé, or a local beer. fresh walnuts. serve with cider.
USA Weston, Missouri USA West Pawlet, Vermont USA Poughkeepsie, New York
Age 2–8 weeks Age 60 days Age 3 months
Weight and Shape 5oz (140g), cylinder, Weight and Shape 2lb (900g), round Weight and Shape 8lb (3.6kg), flat wheel
Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 14in (35cm), H. 2in (5cm)
Milk Ewe Milk Cow Milk Cow
281
Classification Soft white Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft
Producer Green Dirt Farm Producer Bardwell Farm Producer Sprout Creek Farm
Elk Mountain Everona Piedmont Ewe’s Blue
The production of this semi-soft cheese The Piedmont region of Virginia is in Located in New York State’s Hudson
is based on the method used to make the foothills of the ancient Blue Ridge Valley, Old Chatham has grown since
European mountain-style cheeses such Mountains, and Dr. Pat Elliot has 1993 to become one of the largest sheep
as Tomme des Pyrénées (see p90). This operated a full-time sheep farm here dairies in the United States. Its range
American version is named after Elk since 1992, alongside her farm-based of sophisticated and well-executed
Mountain, near the Rogue River in family medical practice. Everona also cheese and yogurt products are widely
Oregon, where it is made. produces the ewe’s-milk cheese Stony available throughout the United States.
Man, as well as a variety of “infused,”
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TASTING NOTES It is best eaten when it versions of Piedmont, and a wine- TASTING NOTES Similar in style to
has aged for six months. This cheese washed cheese, Pride of Bacchus. Roquefort (see pp 82–83), it is moist
is washed in a local Wild Mountain and creamy with pockets of blue-green
Oregon beer, and the paste has a very TASTING NOTES Beaneath the brown-gray mold and fruity, buttery notes; it has a
buttery flavor and firm texture. rind it is warm yellow with a nutty more mineral-like character and less
sweetness along with even floral tones, saltiness than its French counterpart.
HOW TO ENJOYA true pairing of this with a smooth, buttery finish.
Oregon cheese would be with a savor of HOW TO ENJOY Try it crumbled on top of
fig preserves. Enjoy the pair with HOW TO ENJOYPairs with a hoppy beer or salad greens, or enjoy it simply, with
an Elk Mountain Ale. Merlot along with slices of fresh pear. French bread and a glass of Sauternes.
USA Rogue River, Oregon USA Rapidan, Virginia USA Old Chatham, New York
Age 6 months Age: 3–6 months Age 6–8 months
Weight and Shape 8lb (3.6kg), wheel Weight and Shape 11⁄2lb (675g) and 6lb Weight and Shape 4lb (1.8kg), wheel
Size D. 9in (23cm), H. 41⁄2in (11cm) (2.7kg), wheel Size D. 9in (23cm), H. 2in (5cm)
282 Milk Goat Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Milk Ewe
Classification Semi-soft Milk Ewe Classification Blue
Producer Phoila Farm Classification Hard Producer Old Chatham Sheepherding
Producer Everona Dairy Company
Frisian Farms Mature Goatzarella Grafton Cheddar
Gouda Fifty Alpine and Nubian goats provide The Grafton Co-op, founded in 1892 by a
Making farmstead Gouda in the Dutch the organic milk for this supple, elastic group of dairy farmers, is now part of the
tradition is part of Frisian Farms’ mozzarella-style cheese. The goats are Grafton-based Windham Foundation,
commitment to its Dutch ancestry. It also the family pets and all know their which promotes Vermont’s rural
is located just outside Pella, Iowa, a names. Goatzarella is one of several communities. Their “Queen of Quality”
predominantly Dutch community that goat’s-milk cheeses made by Fraga clothbound Grafton Cheddar uses Jersey
has preserved its Dutch culture, Farm, including a chèvre and a feta. milk from a single, grass-fed herd from
including traditional windmills, a Farms for City Kids Foundation. It is
historical village, and an annual tulip TASTING NOTES Made with vegetarian aged in Grafton’s own caves for a
festival. The Gouda is available in rennet, it is rich in cream with a grassy minimum of six months.
young, mature, and smoked versions. meadow flavor, and finishes with a
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silky texture on the palate. TASTING NOTES Dense,compact and
TASTING NOTES Each golden wheel is sunshine yellow from the milk, it has
filled with nutty flavors and fruity HOW TO ENJOY For cooking rather than grassy yet sweet overtones that become
essences, with a sweet cream finish. for the cheese board, it grates and more intense and savory.
melts superbly. Try it on fresh herbed
HOW TO ENJOY Savor with a Riesling, foccacia with tomatoes and olive oil, HOW TO ENJOY Superb for cooking; a robust
fresh grapes, and wheat crackers. paired with an Oregon Pinot Noir. red is its perfect accompaniment.
USA Oskaloosa, Iowa USA Sweet Home, Oregon USA Grafton, Vermont
Age 6–8 weeks minimum Age 2–6 weeks Age 6–18 months
Weight and Shape 20lb (9.1kg), wheel Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), square Weight and Shape 20lb (9kg), wheel
Size D. 14in (35cm), H. 6in (15cm) Size D. 9in (23cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size D. 101/2in (27cm), H. 5in (12cm)
Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow
283
Classification Hard Classification Fresh Classification Hard
Producer Frisian Farms Producer Fraga Farm Goat Cheese Producer Grafton Village Cheese
Grand Queso Grayson Great Hill Blue
The Roths’ stated mission when they Meadow Creek Dairy is located in the This old dairy farm located south of
began producing cheese in the United Blue Ridge Mountains of southwest Boston has been in the family for more
States was not to import cheese, but Virginia, at an altitude of 2,800ft (850m). than a generation. The dairy purchases
rather to utilize the traditions and According to the cheesemakers, it is the Jersey and Holstein milk from several
technology. Although Grand Queso great air and water quality, along with surrounding farms that is neither
is reminiscent of Spanish Manchego, ecologically responsible farming, that pasteurized nor homogenized. The
it has its own unique flavor profile. results in exceptionally high milk quality. resulting cheese has won numerous
awards since its launch in 1996.
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TASTING NOTES It has a full, rounded TASTING NOTES This intensely strong-
taste and aroma that is sweet and very smelling washed cheese possesses an TASTING NOTES It has a surprisingly tight
buttery, while the texture is gummy appropriately strong vegetal flavor. Its texture that opens on the palate like
and slightly oily, but not heavy. firm texture holds up well on the palate, cool butter. Tangy with a good blue
and it finishes surprisingly cleanly. punch, it is just salty enough to
HOW TO ENJOY Grand Queso is a terrific complement the natural sweetness.
option in Spanish and Mexican recipes HOW TO ENJOY Grayson’s intense flavor
calling for a hard full-flavored cheese. demands strong flavors to match, such HOW TO ENJOY Delightfulon its own or in
Or serve it grated over bruschetta as crackers with black pepper, or rye a salad with apples and bacon; pair
topped with sun-dried tomatoes. bread with onion confit. with aromatic Riesling or Viognier.
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mild green peppercorn flavor. The mustiness. The flavor continues in that unique from other fresh chèvre is the
finish is delicate and clean. direction, but the lengthy finish turns natural woody sassafras flavor that
to a meaty saltiness. comes off the leaf .
HOW TO ENJOY Delicate yet complex, it is
ideal with a summer salad of fresh HOW TO ENJOY The perfect choice for HOW TO ENJOY Delicious on toast, but to
greens and ripe tomatoes. fondue. Alternatively, serve with a really bring out the flavor of the hoja
selection of dry salamis and Riesling. santa, try this with some Chardonnay.
USA Pine Plains, New York USA Monroe, Wisconsin USA Dallas, Texas
Age 30 days Age 9–19 months Age 4 weeks
Weight and Shape 3lb (1.35kg), brick Weight and Shape 16lb (7.3kg), wheel Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), drum
Size L. 12in (30cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 14in (35cm), H. 5in (12cm) Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm)
Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Goat
285
Classification Soft white Classification Hard Classification Fresh
Producers Coach Farm Producer Roth Käse USA Producer Mozzarella Company
Monterey Jack A CLOSER LOOK
There are numerous Jacks on the
Also known as Monterey Sonoma Jack or, colloquially, “Jack,” market, and flavored ones are
Monterey Jack was given its official title by the Food and Drug gaining in popularity. Young, Mezzo
Secco, or Dry, the process remains
Administration in 1955 to encompass all the varieties then on the largely the same; the difference is
market. A debate has raged over who actually created Monterey in the maturing
Jack, and the characters behind the story are as smooth,
colorful, and sharp as a Dry Jack itself.
In the mid-1800s, Doña Juana Cota manufacture the cheese on a large
de Boronda made and sold a cheese scale; however, according to research
called Queso del País door-to-door to by Wendy Moss in 1966, it was the
help feed her family of 15 children. Franciscan monks in the 1700s who
Meanwhile, Domingo Pedrazzi of brought the recipe for a soft, creamy
Carmel Valley is known to have cheese known as Queso Blanco País
created a similar cheese that from Spain, via Mexico.
required the application of pressure Today, Monterey Jack is one of the
from a device called a “housejack.” He best-loved American cheeses and can
named it Pedrazzi’s Jack Cheese. be found in most supermarkets. It
It was the shrewd and less-than- accounts for about 10 percent of all
popular local businessman David cheese production in California.
MEASURING THE CURDS Once the
Jacks, however, who laid claim to
whey has been drained, the curds are carefully
Monterey Jack cheese, and it is said TASTING NOTES Young Jack is measured and placed in square pieces of
that he stole the idea of Queso del very mild with a lactic taste. It is cheesecloth, then knotted, ready for shaping.
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A whole young
Monterey Jack.
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HOW TO ENJOY Excellent melted on toast HOW TO ENJOY A very approachable blue, HOW TO ENJOY Have it with a glass of
with a little tomato or on its own with it works well with whole grain crackers, pear brandy, or cider.
a good-quality Belgian ale. fresh figs, and a sweet white wine.
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well. It has a creamy, smooth texture, butter if the cheese has dried a bit. aging that highlights the fresh sweet
and a taste that is reminiscent of goat milk flavors in each cheese.
almonds and white wine. HOW TO ENJOY Kunik is perfectly suited
to very dark breads such as rye, where HOW TO ENJOY Larzac is perfect sliced
HOW TO ENJOY Serve with fresh salad the sweetness of the cheese will really over fresh butterleaf greens, roasted
greens, or as a dessert, with baked pears. shine and cry out for an accompanying golden beets, and olive oil, and paired
Pair with Pinot Gris or a wheat beer. glass of Champagne. with a crisp Pilsner beer.
USA Arcata, California USA Warrensburg, New York USA Dayton, Washington
Age 6–8 weeks Age 2–4 weeks Age 4–6 weeks
Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg) and 5lb Weight and Shape 10oz (300g), round Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), truncated
(2.25kg), round Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 2in (5cm) cone
Size D. 8in (20cm), 41⁄4in (11cm), H. 2in Milk Goat with cow’s milk cream Size D. 4in (10cm), base, 2in (5cm), top, 289
(5cm), 31⁄4in (9.5cm) H. 3in (7.5cm)
Classification Soft white
Milk Goat Milk Goat
Producer Nettle Meadow Goat Farm
Classification Soft white Classification Aged fresh
Producer Cypress Grove Chèvre Producer Monteillet Fromagerie
Le Petit Chèvre Bleu Maytag Blue Mezzo Secco
One of the oldest continuously Certainly one of the most famous Mezzo Secco is not as hard or dry as
producing cheese companies in the and oldest original American cheeses, Monterey Jack, but is firmer than a
Unites States, Marin French, located yet, despite high demand, it is still young, soft Jack. It was first created
within California’s Sonoma County, produced by hand as it was when it in the 1920s, in the days before the
shows a strong French influence in was first made in 1941. Although the advent of refrigeration, when
each of its cheeses. cheese is cave-aged, it always remains perishable foods were stored in “ice
bleached white in appearance. boxes” and cheese had to fend for itself.
TASTING NOTES Aged for 30 days, this
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triple-cream Brie-style cheese strikes TASTING NOTES A blur similar to TASTING NOTES Mezzo Secco’s supple,
a good balance between rich flavors Roquefort but made with cow’s milk, dense golden interior has a rich and
and delicate fine blue veining. It has a Maytag has an enigmatic flavor. nutty full flavor, enhanced by a black
creamy texture, with a subtle, mild Initially creamy and steely blue, it pepper and vegetable oil coating.
white pepper taste. yields to a lemon-tart sweet-sourness.
HOW TO ENJOY This is always a great
HOW TO ENJOY Spread on buttered toast HOW TO ENJOY In addition to service on choice for picnics, or slice and serve it
in the morning, and savor with apricot the cheese board, this sturdy cheese is over grilled lamb burgers with a glass
preserves and fresh pear juice, or pair perfect for salads, melted on steak, or of California Pinot Noir.
with a full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon. even baked into fruit-based desserts.
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has a warm buttery taste, with hints of spring grass flavor year-round. overtones that develop into complex
caramel from the ewe’s milk along with and spicy notes.
a nutty finish. HOW TO ENJOY With its floral decoration,
it makes a stunning centerpiece for a HOW TO ENJOY Spread ColoRouge over
HOW TO ENJOY Grateover pasta, or grill cheese board, or serve with a garden- crispy crackers, and serve with a rich
and serve with an American Pinot Noir fresh salad and a crisp Pinot Grigio. tawny port and halved fresh red and
or a sweet wine. green grapes.
USA River Falls, Wisconsin USA Pescadero, California USA Fort Collins, Colorado
Age 6 months Age 1–3 weeks Age 3–8 weeks
Weight and Shape 12lb (5.4kg), wheel Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), ball Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), round
Size D. 14in (35.5cm), 5in (12cm) Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 1in (2.5cm)
Milk Ewe and cow Milk Goat Milk Cow
291
Classification Hard Classification Fresh Classification Semi-soft
Producer Wisconsin Sheep Dairy Producer Harley Farms Goat Dairy Producer MouCo Cheese Company
Cooperative
Mountain Top Bleu Mt. Tam Oakdale Gouda
Firefly Farms originally kept its own Named after Mt. Tamalpais, a small Dutch-born Walter and Lenneke Bulk
herd of goats, but ultimately decided to mountain located on the Marin County recreate the cheeses of their homeland,
buy milk from a local Amish cooperative coast of northern California, just Gouda and Edam, in central California,
in Pennsylvania so they could focus north of San Francisco Bay, Cowgirl nestled between almond orchards and
exclusively on cheese production. They Creamery’s signature triple-cream strawberry fields. It is available plain
make several varieties, but this small cheese is made with organic cow’s milk or flavored, including peppercorns,
blue is particularly unusual. from the Straus Family Dairy. garlic, mustard, or jalapeño peppers.
THE AMERICAS
TASTING NOTES The relatively uncommon TASTING NOTES Under the thick, white TASTING NOTES Aged to perfection for
pyramid shape hints at Mountain Top bloomy rind, Mt. Tam is creamy and about 10 weeks, the cheese has flavors
Bleu’s unique flavor. While subtle, the dense in texture, with a rich flavor and that share elements of butterscotch
bluing is well balanced against grassy, a pleasant fruity finish. and toasted almonds.
bright, and enjoyably goaty flavors.
Its texture is soft and velvety. HOW TO ENJOY Mt. Tam goes extremely HOW TO ENJOY Create a golden grilled
well with a golden Pilsner or a Fumé sandwich on French bread with a slice
HOW TO ENJOY The cheesemaker suggests Blanc, dried apricots, and fresh-baked of country ham; serve with Sangiovese
serving this with poached figs. A white crunchy pugliese bread. and fresh or dried fruit.
port would go well on the side.
USA Bittinger, Maryland USA Point Reyes, California USA Oakdale, California
Age 5 weeks Age 3–4 weeks Age 2–4 months
Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), pyramid Weight and Shape 2oz (60g), round Weight and Shape 9–11lb (4.1–5kg),
Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 2in (5cm) boulder
292 Milk Goat Milk Cow Size D. 9in (23cm), H. 7.5in (3cm)
Classification Blue Classification Soft white Milk Cow
Producer FireFly Farms Producer Cowgirl Creamery Classification Hard
Producer Oakdale Cheese Company
Ocooch Mountain Old Kentucky Tomme Pleasant Ridge Reserve
Hidden Springs, located in a part of A great cheese from Capriole, founded Produced in the style of a European
Wisconsin known as the Driftless Area, by Judy and Larry Schadd, it is based mountain cheese from May through
operates in close cooperation with its on the mountain tommes of Europe, October. It is named after a land formation
surrounding Amish neighbors, utilizing but has a thinner rind dusted with a on the farm, and is the only cheese to have
traditional sustainable methods. The fine, powdery white mold. The quality won Best of Show three times at the
high-quality milk is sourced from a herd of the cheeses exhibits the great care American Cheese Society competition.
of East Friesian and Lacaune sheep that with which the Schadds keep their
thrive in this terrain. herd of more than 400 goats. TASTING NOTES Brinewashings and the
unique microflora of the raw milk help
TASTING NOTES This very firm-textured TASTING NOTES Its pure white, smooth develop its complex flavors and dense,
cheese is crumbly and slightly grainy texture feels light on the palate, and it supple texture. Young, it has the fruity
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on the palate, with a fat, sweet, and has a slightly goaty notes, with a hint sweetness of an aromatic wine; after
very nutty flavor. It has a delightful of toasted walnut on the finish. months in the ripening caves it becomes
aroma of sheep on open pasture. savory and more intense.
HOW TO ENJOY Robust enough to stand
HOW TO ENJOY Ocooch Mountain is up to many flavors, but Judy suggests HOW TO ENJOY Perfect on a cheese board,
delicious with honey and almonds, or a yellow tomato and ginger preserve. or used like Gruyère. Goes well with
on its own with a good red Burgundy. Pair with a Pinot Noir or other soft red. crisp fruity whites.
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smooth white wheel. The taste becomes a few tiny eyes, it is smooth and supple, from the goats milk, and a distinct
more robust with age. with a hoppy taste balanced by a nutty taste of toasted almonds on the finish.
taste and fresh herbaceous tang, typical
HOW TO ENJOY Crumble over a warm dish of goat’s milk cheeses. HOW TO ENJOY Serve thin slices with
of green beans sprinkled with pancetta membrillo, toasted almonds, or figs
and savor the taste while enjoying a HOW TO ENJOY A natural partner for a along with a fino or dry sherry, or
glass of California Cabernet. nutty hoppy ale and yeasty bread. a hoppy beer.
USA Point Reyes, California USA Bend, Oregon USA Longmont, Colorado
Age 6–8 months Age 2–12 weeks Age 4–6 months
Weight and Shape 6lb (2.7kg), wheel Weight and Shape 9lb (4.1kg), wheel Weight and Shape 6lb (2.7kg), drum
Size Various Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 4in (10cm)
Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Goat
295
Classification Blue Classification Hard Classification Hard
Producer Point Reyes Cheese Producer Tumalo Farms Producer Haystack Mountain Goat Dairy
Red Hawk Rogue River Blue Rosemary’s Waltz
In the early 1990s, friends Peggy Smith Rogue Creamery, founded in the 1930s Silvery Moon Creamery was founded in
and Sue Conley launched Tomales Bay by one of America’s great cheesemakers, 2003 by Jennifer Betencourt, who, after
Foods in Point Reyes Station, California, Thomas Vella, continues to enjoy great studying cheesemaking at Cornell,
to help farms get their products to the success. Under the management of formed a partnership with Smiling Hill
Bay Area’s finest chefs. Today they offer David Gremmels, in 2008 Rogue River Farm. Although located in a relatively
over 200 cheeses from North America became the first American raw-milk commercial area of Maine, the farm
and Europe, including their own cheeses to be certified for export. still works the pristine pastures that
successful brand, Cowgirl Creamery. have remained in the hands of the
THE AMERICAS
TASTING NOTES Wrapped in grape leaves same family since the 1700s.
TASTING NOTES This triple-cream cheese and soaked in pear brandy, it has great
is washed in brine, tinting the rind a intensity and depth of flavor. Firm, yet TASTING NOTES Very fresh and clean
distinctive sunset orange-red color and moist and smooth in the mouth, it is with a crumbly texture, it picks up the
giving Red Hawk its bold appearance less salty than many blues, and is flavors of the rosemary and juniper on
and pungent flavor and aroma. creamy and sweet with a spicy finish. the rind without being overpowered.
HOW TO ENJOY Goes well with an IPA HOW TO ENJOY Pair with dessert wines HOW TO ENJOY Its mildness makes it a
beer, dry Riesling, or cider. and pears or use in desserts such as good base for numerous recipes. Try it
poached pears or calvados soufflé. shaved over baked sweet potato slices.
USA Point Reyes Station, California USA Central Point, Oregon USA Westbrook, Maine
Age 4–5 weeks Age 6–8 months Age 1 month
Weight and Shape 10oz (300g), round Weight and Shape 5lb (2.25kg), drum Weight and Shape 3lb (1.35kg), wheel
Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 3in (7.5cm)
296 Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow
Classification Semi-soft, washed Classification Blue Classification Fresh
Producer Cowgirl Creamery Producer Rogue Creamery Producer Silvery Moon Creamery
R&R Cheddar St. George St. Jorge
Founded in the 1700s, Smiling Hill This is made to honor the island of The Fagundes family makes cheeses
Farm is ancient by American standards. São Jorge in the Azores, from where based on those from the Azores, a group
It keeps a herd of Holsteins grazing on Mary and George Matos originally of small islands west of Portugal, where
pastures free of chemical fertilizer and come. The Matos family now makes its Isabel Fagundes made cheese in the
pesticides. Silvery Moon Creamery Portuguese-style farmstead cheese in late 1800s. St. Jorge, the family’s first,
partnered with Smiling Hill in 2003, Santa Rosa, California. was released in 2000 and, like all their
adding artisan cheese production to its cheese, is made only with morning milk
existing diary business. TASTING NOTES A perfect balance of from their farm.
creamy dense and rich flavors, with a
TASTING NOTES Mild but full of interesting firm cheddar-like texture that offers TASTING NOTES With a texture between
subtlety, it has a chewy texture and hints of earthy meadow, enhanced over cheddar and Gouda, this raw milk
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tight grain; the flavor is sweet and full. time with crunchy crystals that round cheese is long on flavor and slow to
Rather than salty or savory on the out the full flavor of the Jersey cream. mature. After the initial sharp bite, it
finish, it has an earthy minerality. mellows to a creamy, sweet-fruity tang.
HOW TO ENJOY A marvelous choice for
HOW TO ENJOY The texture and age make macaroni and cheese with sun-dried HOW TO ENJOY An excellent cheese for
it ideal for melting in sandwiches, or tomatoes and olive oil, complemented grating, it also makes a tasty snack
enjoy on its own with a strong lager. by a glass of Barbera. with a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon.
USA Westbrook, Maine USA Santa Rosa, California USA Hanford, California
Age 6 months minimum Age 3–6 months Age Up to 3 years
Weight and Shape 17lb (7.7kg), drum Weight and Shape 9–16lb (4.1–7.3kg), Weight and Shape 6–8lb (2.7–3.6kg),
Size D. 14in (35cm), H. 4in (10cm) wheel wheel
Milk Cow Size Various Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 4in (10cm) 297
Classification Hard Milk Cow Milk Cow
Producer Silvery Moon Creamery Classification Hard Classification Hard
Producer Matos St. George Producer Fagundes Old World Cheese
San Joaquin Gold Seastack Shelburne Cheddar
Named after the San Joaquin Valley The rock formations covering the Shelburne Farms is a non-profit
in California, this American original is coastal lines of the Pacific Northwest organization. They have been making
inspired by Swiss mountain cheeses. are the inspiration for the cheeses cheddar since 1980, on their 1,400-acre
It is produced with the milk of Holstein produced at the Mt. Townsend working farm, forest, and National
farmstead cows, in keeping with the Creamery in Washington. Historic Landmark in Shelburne. This
cheesemaker’s concept of creating cheddar is made with Brown Swiss cows’
cheese in the European tradition. TASTING NOTES The coating of vegetable raw milk, and then aged at Jasper Hill.
ash and sea salt prior to ripening is
THE AMERICAS
TASTING NOTES It is aged for 16 to the key to the balance of flavors in this TASTING NOTES Hand-wrapped and
24 months to create a full-flavored soft white cheese. It is a one-of-a-kind carefully aged for more than a year in
cheese with a buttery golden color cheese, with a silky texture and earthy cheesecloth, it has a dense, crumbly
and a crumbly texture. As it ages, the flavors that become piquant as it ages. texture and buttery feel, with a sharp
complex flavors of nuts and grass arise raw onion savory bite, and deep, warm
to the palate. HOW TO ENJOY A perfect picnic and hiking yellow color.
cheese served with a fresh, crusty
HOW TO ENJOY Grate it into a creamy baguette, Viognier, and dried fruit. HOW TO ENJOY Taste it on site where you
pasta dish and serve with a full-bodied Equally, it makes a delicious finale to can view the cheesemaking at the Farm
San Joaquin Syrah. a fine meal with friends. Barn, from mid-May to mid-October.
USA Modesto, California USA Port Townsend, Washington USA Shelburne, Vermont
Age 16–24 months Age 4–6 weeks Age 12–14 months
Weight and Shape 30lb (13.6kg), wheel Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), round Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg), drum
Size Various Size Various Size D. 13in (33cm), H. 5in (12cm)
298 Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow
Classification Hard Classification Soft white Classification Hard
Producer Fiscali Farmstead Cheese Producer Mt. Townsend Creamery Producer Shelburne Farms
Sierra Nevada Cream Smokey Blue Cheese Soft Wheel
Cheese Rogue Creamery ages its cheeses in Michael Lee started out as a cheese
Named after the Sierra Nevada Roquefort-style caves, and after their retailer, but since 2005 he has been
Mountains, the cheesemakers of the same success with Oregon Blue, the first blue producing his own cheese from a
name also produce a range of natural and made on the West Coast, its producers small herd of 25 goats. Respectful of
organic cheeses, including a cheddar and decided to be the first to smoke a blue. seasonality, as and when needed, this
various flavored Jack cheeses. However, Hence Smokey Blue was born. cheesemaker often supplements his
their best cheeses are these authentic, supply of milk with cow’s milk from
old-style cream ones. TASTING NOTES This cheese is smoked neighboring farms.
over a bed of local hazelnut shells,
TASTING NOTES Sierra Nevada has a giving the robust, spicy blue a hint TASTING NOTES Soft Wheel is a pungent,
full-cream flavor and texture with of hazelnuts with a touch of creamy washed-rind cheese. The rind is thick
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hints of sweet grass, warm butter, caramel and smoke on the finish. but soft and sticky, while the inside is
and a sea-salty tang on the finish. rich and goaty with hints of chestnuts.
HOW TO ENJOY The marriage of this
HOW TO ENJOY Spread on a bagel or fold smoked blue with a bottle of chocolate HOW TO ENJOY Spread on warm crusty
into an omelet with smoked salmon and stout and slices of stoneground-wheat bread and serve with dried fruit and
chives, alongside a glass of California baguette is a great way to enjoy nuts alongside an Alsace-style aromatic
Sauvignon Blanc. a sunny afternoon. white wine or wheat beer.
USA Willows, California USA Central Point, Oregon USA West Cornwall, Vermont
Age 1–3 weeks Age 3 months Age 80 days
Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), container Weight and Shape 5lb (21⁄4kg), wheel Weight and Shape 11⁄2lb (700g), wheel
Size No size Size Various Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 2in (5cm)
Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Goat and cow
299
Classification Fresh Classification Blue Classification Semi-soft
Producer Sierra Nevada Producer Rogue Creamery Producer Twig Farm
Surfing Goat Dairy Tarentaise Tarentaise
Quark John and Janine Putnam, who trained Following a trip to England, Karli and
The farm is located on the sunny in Haute-Savoie, France, offer an Jim Hagedorn were inspired to create
Hawaiian slopes of Maui’s Haleakala excellent American interpretation of the Farms for City Kids Foundation at
Crater, providing the herd of goats with Alpine cheeses. They have shared the Spring Brook Farm. A place where city
native vegetation to forage on, as well recipe and strict milk quality controls kids spend time learning while helping
as pasture, and adding distinctive with neighboring Spring Brook Farms out. Neighboring Thistle Hill gave
regional flavors to the milk. to expand production. them the recipe to expand production.
THE AMERICAS
TASTING NOTES Smooth on the palate, TASTING NOTES The golden color translates TASTING NOTES Tarentaise has a brown-
with a sweet creamy taste and into the flavor, with toasty caramel notes orange rind, and a pale, dense, elastic
pleasant, tangy goat-milk finish. and a touch of acidity on the finish. It interior with tiny holes. It has distinct
has a cherrylike aroma when freshly cut. farmyardy notes, with hints of nuts and
HOW TO ENJOY Serve with fresh mango The texture is initially medium dry, but a peppery, spicy finish. A winner at the
slices and macadamia nuts over salad relaxes in the mouth. 2014 American Cheese Society awards.
greens. For a true tropical experience,
complement with a Kona Brewing Co. HOW TO ENJOY Pairwith Vin de Savoie HOW TO ENJOY Pair with crunchy pickles
Fire Rock Pale Ale. and some fresh apples. It also grills like and a rich brown ale, or melt over boiled
raclette, and makes a great fondue. potatoes and serve with cured meats.
USA Kula, Maui, Hawaii USA North Pomfret, Vermont USA Reading, Vermont
Age A few days Age 8 months Age 10–12 months
Weight and Shape 8oz (225g), jar Weight and Shape 18lb (8.2kg), wheel Weight and Shape 14–20lb (6.35–9kg),
Size No size Size D. 20in (50cm), H. 4in (10cm) wheel
300 Milk Goat Milk Cow Size D. 15in (38cm), H. 31⁄4in (8.25cm)
Classification Fresh Classification Hard Milk Cow (Jersey)
Producer Surfing Goat Dairy Producer Thistle Hill Farm Classification Semi-soft
Producer Spring Brook Farm
Taupinière Telford Reserve Thomasville Tomme
Laura Chenel, recognized as the pioneer Located just outside Philadelphia, Sweet Grass Dairy is located on
of American goat cheese, started making Necessity Farm believes in traditional beautiful wooded terrain in southern
goat cheese in the late 1970s. In 2006, sustainable farming, with their small, Georgia. The Littles keep a small herd
she sold the company to a French family, grass-fed herd producing beautiful raw of goats and Jersey cows, from which
committed to carrying on her legacy. milk from which they make about ten they produce several different styles of
Made in the historic town of Sonoma, cheeses, alongside other farm products. cheese. This one is modeled after the
it is based on the traditional French Their range includes sausages and traditional tommes of the Pyrenees.
cheese, Poitou-Charentes, and means free-range chickens that are sold almost
“molehill,” referring to its shape. exclusively into the local community. TASTING NOTES Although relatively mild
in flavor, this cheese has an appealing
TASTING NOTES Pleasantly chalky, with a TASTING NOTES Deliciously complex, with simplicity that is best compared to
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mild goat taste, it has a thin dusting of a tart bite and a long butterscotch farm-fresh milk: clean, rich, slightly
charcoal ash beneath the stark white finish typical of premium aged Gouda. sweet, and perfectly balanced. The
crusty rind. As the cheese ages, a creamy It has a firm but not crumbly texture. texture is chewy and semi-soft.
layer develops under the rind.
HOW TO ENJOY Beer, preferably good lager, HOW TO ENJOY Ideal for macaroni and
HOW TO ENJOY Greaton a cheese board; is the best match. Great with sourdough cheese, its mellow flavor lends richness
pair with Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé. bread, country ham, and hot mustard. to recipes without being overpowering.
302
USA
cedar boards, the cheese is imbued with or soupy, as is sometimes the case with components of this washed-rind cheese.
its woody aroma. It is supple and silky triple-cream cheeses. The finish has floral overtones.
with small holes, and a nutty flavor that
ends with a peppery, woody undertone. HOW TO ENJOY Toodelicate to cook; try it HOW TO ENJOY Pearcider enhances the
with Champagne. To indulge, smear on flavors of Tumalo Tomme, especially
HOW TO ENJOY Rosé, crisp whites, or pita wedges and top with caviar. when served with pear compote and
bubbles make good partners. crusty walnut bread.
USA Grantsburg, Wisconsin USA Pine Plains, New York USA Redmond, Oregon
Age 21⁄2 months or more Age 20–30 days Age 6 months
Weight and Shape 1.8kg (4lb), flying Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), wheel Weight and Shape 3–5lb (1.35–2.25kg),
saucer Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) wheel
Size D. 20cm (8in), H. 7.5–10cm (3–4in) Milk Goat Size D. 61⁄2in (17cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) 303
Milk Sheep and goat (blend) Classification Soft white Milk Goat
Classification Semi-soft Producer Coach Farm Classification Semi-soft
Producer Love Tree Farmstead Producer Juniper Grove Farm
Tumbleweed Twig Farm Square Vaquero Blue
5 Spoke Creamery’s first “spoke” of Cheese This organic farm produces a wide
inspiration came from the belief that Not able to rely on the availability of range of handmade ewe’s-milk or mixed
like riding a bicycle, balance is the goat’s milk, Twig Farm sometimes ewe’s- and cow’s-milk cheeses. Many,
key to a healthy lifestyle for people follows the traditional practice of including this one, are cave-aged on
and animals too. Their cows graze on supplementing its supply with cow’s the property. Their strictly seasonal
a unique terroir of grasses and herbs, milk. But for certain cheeses, including production means that many of Willow
producing sweet, herbaceous raw milk. this one, it uses only milk from its own Hill’s cheeses come and go quickly, but
herd. Tying it in muslin or cheesecloth patience is rewarded with exceptional
THE AMERICAS
TASTING NOTES A cross between French forms its irregular square shape. quality and dynamic flavors.
Cantal and cheddar, it comes into its
own after 12 months in the cave. Hard, TASTING NOTES Hazelnuts are the leading TASTING NOTES Its appearance speaks
compact, and pale yellow, it has a fruity flavor, which rolls into a surprisingly volumes about the cave ripening, but
acidity that is balanced by the rich mellow, sweet finish. The rind carries this medium-strong, slightly musty blue
sweetness of the milk. a certain pungency, but this does not is buttery and smooth on the palate.
penetrate the firm, dense paste.
HOW TO ENJOY Goes well with fresh figs, HOW TO ENJOY Ideal for crumbling into
or honey with a touch of balsamic HOW TO ENJOYPerfect with a honey salads or grilling on your favorite steak,
vinegar, paired with a bold Tempranillo. derived from nut or herb blossoms. paired with a Merlot or dry Riesling.
USA Port Chester, New York USA West Cornwall, Vermont USA Milton, Vermont
Age 12–14 months Age 2–3 months Age 6 months
Weight and Shape 10lb (4.5kg), square Weight and Shape 2lb (900g), flat square Weight and Shape 4lb (1.8kg), cylinder
Size L. 8in (20cm), W. 8in (20cm), Size L. 4in (10cm), W. 4in (10cm), Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 6in (15cm)
304 H. 8in (20cm) H. 2in (5cm) Milk Ewe and cow
Milk Cow Milk Goat Classification Blue
Classification Hard Classification Hard Producer Willow Hill Farm
Producer 5 Spoke Creamery Producer Twig Farm
Vermont Shepherd Wabash Cannonball West West Blue
Aside from producing this excellent Capriole, founded by Judy Schadd, has After 30 years of “cheese whispering”
cave-aged sheep’s-milk cheese, Patch an ever-evolving range of French-style for others, Peter Dixon, with wife Rachel,
Farm has served as a training ground goat cheeses distinctively its own. The is now making his own raw milk cheeses,
for many aspiring cheesemakers. To Wabash Cannonball has been a success which are aged in an old root cellar.
highlight the importance of terroir, for years and was an American Cheese Inspired by traditional Gorgonzola (see
each wheel of cheese is delivered with a Society award winner in 1995. p108–09), West West Blue is a blend of
certificate detailing the herd’s activity fresh curd from two consecutive days.
on the day of production. TASTING NOTES Firm and slightly dry,
with a thin white rind dusted with ash, TASTING NOTES The layered curd ripens
TASTING NOTES Deliciously sweet and this surface-ripened cheese has a goaty at different rates, creating a mottled,
concentrated, its texture is very dense and slightly acidic flavor; the rind lends earthy texture. The blue streaks impart
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and relaxes nicely in the mouth. True a pleasant muskiness. The finish is rich a spicy, salt and pepper tang. Some are
to Pyrenean style, it has a long sweet- and buttermilky. aged by Crown Finish Caves for the New
savory finish, with a hint of woolliness. York market.
HOW TO ENJOY Ideal with dried fruit and
HOW TO ENJOY The classic pairing is with sparkling wine. Bread and crackers HOW TO ENJOY In a bar in New York or
a black cherry conserve, but it works distract from the flavor, so it is best to a field in Vermont, with a Merlot, light
equally well with quince paste. enjoy this one on its own. hoppy ale, or Dry Riesling.
USA Putney, Vermont USA Greenville, Indiana USA Westminster West, Vermont
Age 6 months Age 3–10 weeks Age 5–10 months
Weight and Shape 3lb (1.35kg), convex Weight and Shape 4oz (115g), flattened Weight and Shape 18lb (8kg), wheel
drum ball Size D. 12in (30cm) H. 6in (15cm)
Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) Size D. 11⁄2in (4cm) Milk Cow
305
Milk Ewe Milk Goat Classifiaction Blue
Classification Hard Classification Aged fresh Producer Parish Hill Creamery
Producer Major farms Producer Capriole Farmstead Goat Cheese
5 Spoke Creamery
More Cheeses Browning Gold
of the US The name 5 Spoke Creamery was
inspired by the ambling bicycle journeys
around the world of two friends, which
they likened to the journey of discovery
The following cheeses are when making cheese. All the cheeses are
rare, largely because they are handmade in the farmstead tradition,
produced on site from the raw milk of a
only available seasonally or closed herd of grass-fed cows.
because they are produced in
very remote areas. Although TASTING NOTES This hard cheese is aged
for 24 months until it is full of rich
it has proved impossible to buttery flavors and has a firm cheddar-
photograph them, they are like texture.
important and interesting
HOW TO ENJOY Truly a fine pairing with
examples of cheeses of the
Winnimere US, so we are including them.
toasted almonds, a fresh-baked sweet
baguette, and a golden ale.
Available only from midwinter through So, read, savor, and seek out.
spring, this is always worth waiting for, USA Port Chester, New York
and its slight variability from year to Age 24 months
year always stirs excitement for the Weight and Shape 9–11lb (4–4.9kg),
cheese to become available. Like Jasper cylinder
Hill’s other cheeses, the beer-washed Size D. 6in (16cm), H. 71⁄2in (19cm)
Winnimere reflects European training. Milk Cow
Classification Hard
THE AMERICAS
USA
Creamery Subblime Ferns Edge Goat Dairy Golden Glen
This cheese owes its name not just to Fern’s Edge Dairy is nestled in the Creamery Mozzarella
its flavor, but to “Subby,” a La Mancha foothills of Mount Zion in the Cascade Golden Glen Creamery is the only
doe in the farm’s herd that once broke Hills of Oregon. The fresh, artisan farmstead producer on the Washington
her neck and resembled a submarine cheese of the same name is handcrafted coast that hand-makes and stretches
while healing! All Estrella Family using the milk of the organic farm’s fresh mozzarella.
Creamery cheeses are made with raw goats, and seasoned with some of their
milk and the animals graze on home-grown herbs. TASTING NOTES Moist and creamy to
organically maintained pastures. start, it is rich in flavor and has a
TASTING NOTES A fresh-flavored Chèvre, delicate texture that reflects the gentle
TASTING NOTES Aged for two months to it is made by hand to create a delicate process by which the cheese was made. 307
semi-soft perfection, it has a delicate and soft texture, which is followed by
hint of goat and a tang of coastal salt a sweet cream finish. HOW TO ENJOY Toss in a salad with
air on the finish. arugula, serve as a snack with a
HOW TO ENJOY Serve with fresh pears, dribble of fresh pesto, or add to a fresh
HOW TO ENJOY Best with a baguette, some blanched almonds, and a sweet tomato and garlic pasta dish. Add a
apple slices, a drizzle of wild honey, and baguette, and wash it down with bottle of rich Washington Syrah to
a Washington State Chardonnay to a crisp glass of Viognier. create a fine meal.
highlight the elegant flavors.
USA Dripping Springs, Texas USA San Louis Obispo, California USA Bow, Washington
Age 8–12 weeks Age 1 week Age 6–9 months
Weight and shape 11⁄2lb (800g), drum Weight and Shape 61⁄2lb (3kg), block Weight and Shape 8lb 13oz (4kg), wheel
Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 11⁄2–2in(4–5cm) Size L. 8in (20cm), W. 8in (20cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm)
Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Cow
Classification Blue Classification Fresh Classification Hard
THE AMERICAS
Producer Pure Luck Farm & Dairy Producer Franklin’s Cheeses Producer Samish Bay Cheese
USA Omak, Washington USA Ferndale, Washington USA Santa Margarita, California
Age Over 60 days Age 8 – 12 weeks Age 2–4 months
Weight and Shape 4–8oz (115–225g), Weight and Shape 2–6lb (900g–2.7kg), Weight and Shape 5–6lb (2.25–2.7kg),
drum rounds wheel
Size D. 31⁄2–4in (9–10cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size Various Size Various
Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Ewe
Classification Aged fresh Classification Hard Classification Semi-soft
Producer Pine Stump Farms Producers Pleasant Valley Dairy Producer Rinconada Dairy
Steamboat Island Two Faced Blue Up in Smoke
Gouda Peccato The underlining character of the
Jason Drew, a supporter of the Slow The name refers to the fact that it is various cheeses produced by River’s
Food movement, established Steamboat made using a combination of two milks: Edge Chevre is attributed to the
Island Goat Farm in 2006. His raw ewe and cow’s. It is one of several abundance of grazing in the meadows
intention was to create handmade goat blues made in the century-old barn on alongside the Siletz River and the
cheeses that could be produced with the banks of the Chehalis River. surrounding woodlands. Up in Smoke
integrity and that would support his is, as the name suggests, smoked, then
community and family farm. TASTING NOTES A vein of musical blues wrapped in smoked maple leaves that
runs through each wheel, inspired by have been sprinkled with bourbon.
TASTING NOTES Farm Gouda is a cheddar- the notes of the cheesemaking. The
style cheese with a full flavor of goat’s taste is a blend of earthy and floral TASTING NOTESThe combination of
milk, along with balanced meadow and flavors, encompassed in a soft, natural smoke, maple leaves, and hints of
floral undertones and a nutty blue-gray rind. bourbon provides an unusual but
background. elegant contrast to the lemony fresh
HOW TO ENJOY Eat with fresh figs, honey, tang and creamy texture of the cheese.
HOW TO ENJOY Serve with sourdough rolls and toasted walnut bread for a late
or as a great alternative to cow’s-milk afternoon cheese board, alongside HOW TO ENJOYServe with crusty bread or
cheddar. Excellent with a Pilsner beer. a Washington State Pinot Noir. maple-toasted walnuts and smoked ale.
USA
Vache de Vashon Widmers Cellars Aged Yerba Santa Dairy
Influenced by the alpine regions of Brick Cheese Fresca
France, Italy, and Switzerland, Sea Joe Widmer, a third-generation The family originally came from Peru,
Breeze has created their own unique cheesemaker in the town of Theresa, where they made cheese, but moved to
cellar-aged regional and original raw Wisconsin, makes a large range of the United States and, in 1986, bought
milk cheeses. cheeses, including this aged brick—a a farm where they strive to create a
Wisconsin original, first made in 1877, model of sustainable agriculture and
TASTING NOTES The essence of apples that is washed or smeared to create excellent goats’-milk cheeses.
and pears teases the palette, with a the orange sticky rind.
sweet and delicate rich, buttery texture TASTING NOTES Freshly made and
on the finish. TASTING NOTES Supple and smooth, delivered to market daily, the creamy 309
the flavor changes from mild and taste and brine flavors come through
HOW TO ENJOY You can appreciate Vache sweet with a subtle nuttiness to the crumbly texture of this feta-
de Vashon with a dry cider or pungent and tangy when aged. style cheese.
Sauvignon Blanc along with sweet Also available as a spread.
pound cake for dessert. HOW TO ENJOY Serve a chef’s sandwich
HOW TO ENJOY Slice for sandwiches, of Fresca, olives, and roasted red
especially with pumpernickel bread, peppers while enjoying with a robust
mustard, and onions. Good with ale. California Zinfandel.
TASTING NOTES The large wheel has an the impressions of the cloth. The aroma buttery texture, and a slight cultured
off-white paste with a few pinholes. is of fruit and nuts, and has the taste of cream finish. Its richness and yellow
Its nutty aroma and sweet, full flavor lingering herbs. The cheese’s off-white interior are derived from the unique
make it very addictive. interior is dense yet crumbly because qualities of the Jersey milk.
of its long aging.
HOW TO ENJOY Melt on a special raclette HOW TO ENJOY Savor with a glass of
grill, or under an ordinary broiler, and HOW TO ENJOY Melt on open-faced roast Pilsner, Sauvignon Blanc, or icewine.
scrape onto a crusty baguette, or try it beef sandwiches, grate into cider and Melt over poached pears with toasted
with steamed asparagus. Serve with an maple syrup soup, or mix into mashed walnuts for a succulent dessert.
amber ale, dry Riesling, or Zinfandel. potatoes. Enjoy with ale or Merlot.
CANADA La Sarre, Québec CANADA Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island CANADA Salt Spring Island, British Columbia
Age 60–75 days Age 12–18 months Age 30–45 days
Weight and Shape 71⁄2lb (3.5kg), wheel Weight and Shape 171⁄2lb (8kg), tall Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (160g), round
Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 4in (10cm) cylinder Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 2in (5cm)
310 Milk Ewe Size D. 91⁄2in (24cm), H. 8in (20cm) Milk Cow
Classification Semi-soft Milk Cow Classification Blue
Producer Fromagerie La Vache à Maillotte Classification Hard Producer Moonstruck Organic Cheese
Producer Cows Inc.
La Barre du Jour Bleu Bénédictin Bouquetin de Portneuf
Québec cheesemakers are creating new Produced at Abbaye Saint-Benoît-du- An artisanal farmstead-produced
versions of European classics. This is a Lac, a Benedictine monastery set cheese based on the famed Crottin
goat’s-milk version of Swiss raclette (see among woodlands on the edge of a lake, de Chavignol, this aged fresh goat
p239) and has a layer of red Espelette this blue won Grand Champion at the cheese is eaten from 10 days old up
chili pepper sprinkled through the 2000 Canadian Cheese Grand Prix. to 2 months. The change in its flavor
center like a spicy Morbier (see p67). profile is quite amazing.
TASTING NOTES Blue Bénédictin has
TASTING NOTES The thin line of red pronounced streaks and patches of TASTING NOTES Creamy when young, with
beautifully offsets the ivory-white blue-green veins throughout the a rich, lingering flavor and a slight
interior, and the flavors are delicate off-white paste, an aroma of mold and herbal, barnyard aroma; the older
CANADA
and mild—until your taste buds detect salt, and a lingering spicy, salty tang. cheese is more dense in consistency,
the heat and spiciness of the pepper. with light brown and gray molds on the
HOW TO ENJOY Serve melted over a rind and a piquant aftertaste.
HOW TO ENJOY This delicious melting juicy steak with a red wine jus. Many
cheese can be used in a spicy version of Canadian sommeliers match this HOW TO ENJOY Melt the young cheese into
raclette with steamed vegetables, champion with another Canadian icon, scrambled eggs with chives, or try with
grilled sausage, or shrimp. A dark beer icewine. The wine’s sweetness perfectly chanterelles, leeks, and puréed garlic.
or a Merlot would be a good match. balances the saltiness of the cheese. Chardonnay or Pilsner matches well.
TASTING NOTES Upon unwrapping the TASTING NOTES The soft, creamy off-white TASTING NOTES The white or orange-
THE AMERICAS
small cheese from its leafy cover, you paste has a sweet aroma and mushroom colored curds must be squeaky to be
discover an ivory-white rindless cheese. flavor; the ash adds a great visual good. Some are flavored with garlic
A slight herbal aroma introduces you to component when the cheese is cut. powder, barbecue or souvlaki spices,
a lingering grassy flavor, and the soft The rind is soft and slightly spongy. herbs, or maple seasoning.
paste melts delicately on the palate.
HOW TO ENJOY The cheesemaker suggests HOW TO ENJOY As a snack, still warm
HOW TO ENJOY Serve with a crisp Viognier stuffing the cheese into a filo-wrapped from the vat, or in the Québécois dish
white wine, whole roasted garlic cloves, seared pork tenderloin. Bake until the poutine—French fries with white
and a sliced baguette, or crumble into pastry is golden. Riesling, Beaujolais, or cheddar curds, topped with a brown
salads with a light vinaigrette. Pilsner is best savored with this dish. velouté sauce. Enjoy with an ale.
CANADA
interior a delicate, buttery flavor. full, persistent flavor has beefy texture, scents of apples and nuts, and a
undertones and a slight barn aroma. mild flavor with a slight lactic aftertaste.
HOW TO ENJOY Bake in buttery fillo
pastry with local wine jelly. Remove HOW TO ENJOY Melt over mushrooms HOW TO ENJOY Serve with an apple-based
the rind, and melt the paste with other sautéed with garlic, or serve on a beverage such as hard cider, Calvados,
cheese to produce a variation of a grilled slice of baguette as a great or ice cider. It melts very well, making
Normandy seafood fondue. Serve with winter snack. Matches well with amber it ideal for fondue or in béchamel
a Niagara Peninsula Chardonnay. ale or Baco Noir red wine. sauces to accompany pork dishes.
CANADA Jordan Station, Ontario CANADA Mont-Laurier, Québec CANADA Plessisville, Québec
Age 30–45 days Age 45–60 days Age 45–60 days
Weight and Shape 10oz (300g), wheel Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg), wheel Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), square
Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 1in (3cm) Size L. 5in (12cm), W. 8in (20cm),
Milk Cow Milk Cow H. 2in (5cm) 313
Classification Soft white Classification Semi-soft Milk Cow
Producer Upper Canada Cheese Company Producer Les Fromages de l’Erablière Classification Semi-soft
Producer Fromagerie Éco-Délices
Dragon’s Breath Blue Harvest Moon OKA Classique
This small black bell of blue cheese Gitta Sutherland makes this washed- One of Canada’s best-known cheeses,
covered in a thick black wax coating rind cheese only at the full moon. this was originally produced at the
is made by Maja and Willem van den Poplar Grove is in British Columbia’s Trappist monastery in Oka, Québec,
Hoek, who recommend that you slice Okanagan Valley, renowned for its using methods taught to the monks by
off the top and inhale, and, if there is bountiful harvest of apples, nuts, a visiting brother from the Abbaye
any mold under the wax, mix it in. and grapes. Port-du-Salut in France. Agropur, the
province’s largest dairy cooperative,
TASTING NOTES Under the black wax, TASTING NOTES The pale yellow paste has now produces it commercially.
THE AMERICAS
the white paste has a few holes and a a buttery aroma, supple, silky texture,
spicy blue aroma, with a subtle creamy and delicate cream flavor. The pale TASTING NOTES Washed in brine, this has
saltiness and lingering flavors, but no orange rind, characteristic of washed a tangerine-colored, sticky rind with
bitterness or harshness—despite what cheeses, gives it a slight salty aroma. a light yellow pinholed paste, and a
its name might imply. nutty, salty aroma. With age, it becomes
HOW TO ENJOY Serve on a cheese platter more meaty, piquant, and barnyardy.
HOW TO ENJOY Stuff it into ravioli with with frozen grapes and candied or spicy
leeks, or stir it into freshly cooked walnuts. It goes well with a wheat beer HOW TO ENJOY Great on a cheese board, in
pasta, or use to top dried apricots. Pair or Okanagan Chardonnay. tarts, or melted on potatoes. A Belgian-
with icewine, beer, or dry Riesling. style beer is a good accompaniment.
CANADA Upper Economy, Nova Scotia CANADA Penticton, British Columbia CANADA Oka, Québec
Age 30–45 days Age 30–40 days Age 45–75 days
Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), cylinder Weight and Shape 7oz (190g), wheel Weight and Shape 5lb (2.5kg), wheel
Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 3in (7.5cm) Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 10in (25cm), H. 2in (5cm)
314 Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow
Classification Blue Classification Semi-soft Classification Semi-soft
Producer That Dutchman’s Farm Producer Poplar Grove Cheese Company Producer Agropur Cooperative
Old Grizzly Le Paillasson de l’Îsle Piacere
This aged traditional Gouda-style d’Orléans Similar to a Corsican Fleur du Maquis
cheese is made by an award-winning This simple fresh cheese, introduced in (see p58), this cheese is coated with
Dutch artisanal cheesemaker, within 1635 by the first French colonists on rosemary, summer savory, juniper
sight of Alberta’s Rocky Mountains. All the Île d’Orléans near Québec City, had berries, chili pepper, and a touch of
of Sylvan Star’s cheese are made with all but died out before it was revived in gray-green mold, and is made with
milk from its own herd. 2003 by Jocelyn Labbe. ewe’s milk from local Mennonite farms.
TASTING NOTES Over the two-year TASTING NOTES Lemon-fresh taste with TASTING NOTES Piacere’s white interior
maturing period, the milk proteins the sweetness of fresh milk and a hint has a delicate, slightly sweet flavor
caramelize to a light brown color. When of saltiness. This cheese has a firm but that balances well with the lingering
CANADA
you break a piece off the large boulder- moist texture perfect for grilling. flavors provided by the herb- and
shaped wheel, a sweet cultured-cream spice-coated rind. With age, the paste
aroma is evident and the cheese has a HOW TO ENJOY Serve fresh with fruit, becomes very soft and creamy.
sweet-savory tang. or pan-fried with maple-caramelized
apples, smoked salmon, and mesclun. HOW TO ENJOY Superb on a cheese board,
HOW TO ENJOY Grate over potatoes, soups, Try with sautéed onions and shiitake but Piacere also melts well when baked
pasta, and casseroles, or use in sauces. mushrooms. A light white wine works or broiled. A fruity white or a Merlot
Match with a big red or a strong beer. well with this salty cheese. would be a good complement.
CANADA Red Deer, Alberta CANADA Île d’Orléans, Québec CANADA Millbank, Ontario
Age 2 years Age 3–10 days Age 30–45 days
Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg), wheel Weight and Shape 4oz (115g), disc Weight and Shape 1lb 10oz (750g), wheel
Size D. 14in (36cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 3in (7cm), H. 1⁄2in (1cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 1in (2.5cm)
Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Ewe
315
Classification Hard Classification Fresh Classification Flavor-added
Producer Sylvan Star Cheese Producer Les Fromages de l’Îsle d’Orléans Producer Monforte Dairy
Prestige Raclette de Compton Le Sabot de
Fromages Chaput makes an interesting au Poivre Blanchette
range of raw cow’s- and goat’s-milk Farmed and improved by four The Guitels have been making raw
cheeses based on French artisan recipes. generations of Bolducs, La Station and pasteurized cheese from their
Prestige is a large aged fresh cheese has a herd of 70 Holstein cows that is own herd of cows and goats since 1995,
that is made to appeal to those who carefully managed and fed a complex using recipes from their homelands,
like a distinctly goaty cheese. organic diet. Their raw milk is used France and Switzerland. Included
in making award-winning French among these is Le Sabot, based on the
TASTING NOTES The smooth, dense white mountain-style cheeses. cheeses of the Loire.
THE AMERICAS
CANADA
orange rind with its dusting of white process causes calcium crystals to form, ages, the flavor becomes more intense,
has a rustic, barnyardy taste. providing a flavor burst and sharp tang. with a rich meaty finish.
The texture is hard, dry and crumbly.
HOW TO ENJOY This is superb on its own, HOW TO ENJOY Although this is almost too
but its supple texture means it also HOW TO ENJOYThis extremely versatile good to cook, it has all the versatility of
melts well, especially when broiled. hard cheese is regularly found served a hard cheese and lends its sweetness
The creamy richness goes well with with apple pie, an Ontario favorite. to any dish. Match with a full-bodied
ale or a juicy red from Cahors. Enjoy with strong ale, stout, or porter. white, fruity red, or Indian Pale Ale.
CANADA Saint-Raymond-de-Portneuf, Québec CANADA Pine River, Ontario CANADA Sainte-Marie-de-Kent, New
Age 30–45 days Age 7 years Brunswick
Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg), wheel Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2.5 kg), block Age 3–9 months
Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 1in (3cm) Size L. 12in (30cm), W. 10in (25cm), Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), wheel
Milk Cow H. 18in (45cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 4in (10cm) 317
Classification Semi-soft Milk Cow Milk Ewe
Producer La Fromagerie Alexis de Portneuf Classification Hard Classification Hard
Producer Pine River Cheese and Butter Co-op Producer La Bergerie aux 4 Vents
MEXICO
TASTING NOTES It becomes firm, chewy, TASTING NOTES It is very white, creamy,
yet crumbly with age and has mild TASTING NOTES Lemon fresh and with spongy, slightly grainy, and mild with
herbaceous notes that are heightened a buttery mild flavor, it is firm and a fresh lemony acidity and slight
when cooked, a salty bite, and definite elastic to the bite. saltiness somewhere between ricotta
heat when rolled in paprika. and feta.
HOW TO ENJOY Used as a topping for
HOW TO ENJOY Grated or shredded onto spicy dishes such as enchiladas and HOW TO ENJOY Crumbled over enchiladas
various dishes including chili con empanadas, or crumbled over soups or or used as a filling in many Mexican
carne, enchiladas, and tacos. It is also salads. In Peru it is melted with spices dishes, it softens and becomes creamy
great crumbled over salads. to make a cold sauce for boiled potatoes. when heated, but it will not melt.
TASTING NOTES Soft and moist with a TASTING NOTES Soft white, tangy, and TASTING NOTES Hard but less grainy than
very mild salty tang and hint of lemon creamy, this cheese is easily spreadable, Italian pecorino, it has a richness in
on the palate, it becomes yellow with with the consistency of cream cheese the mouth and sharp, salty taste with a
a white center with age, and develops but without the sweet taste. lingering raw onion bite on the finish.
a deeper tang and slight bitterness.
HOW TO ENJOY A great snacking cheese, it HOW TO ENJOY An excellent grating
HOW TO ENJOY Usually eaten at breakfast can be eaten on bread or crackers, as a cheese, it is sprinkled onto various local
with French bread, it can be used as a stuffing in savory pastries, or even on dishes as well as pasta and salads, or
filling in the traditional pão de queijo, pizzas. It can also be used as a dessert. thinly sliced as a snack.
bread buns stuffed with cheese.
BEIJING
INNER MONGOLIA
SHANXI
QINGHAI
SHAANXI
SICHUAN
JIANGXI
HUNAN
GUIZHOU
N
500 miles
GUANGXI
YUNNAN
Ru-bing (Milk Cake) GUANGDONG
HEILONGJIANG
XINJIANG JAPAN
CHINA HAINAN
Key
YUNNAN ★ AOC, DOC, DOP, PGI, or PDO cheeses
Produced only here
Produced throughout the region
LIAONING
CHINA AND JAPAN
CHINA It is widely believed that the ancient Chinese avoided dairy products to draw a line
between themselves and the barbarians who roamed their borders, or perhaps because of
their prolific use of soy milk. Whatever their reasons, dairy products were virtually unknown
until the 20th century and cheese is still viewed with suspicion except in Yunnan Province.
However, as the Western diet intrudes on tradition, the need for milk has risen dramatically;
even with over 1.7 million dairy farms, production cannot keep pace with demand.
JAPAN Initially, most cheeses were processed, but since the year 2000, subsidies and
technical support from the government have led to an increase of cheesemakers. As a result,
Japan’s northernmost island, Hokkaido, now boasts more than 100 cheesemakers, and overall
SHANDONG
there are nearly 200 small farms and factories producing cheese across Japan. Most cheeses
are based on classic European cheeses like Camembert, Emmental, and Edam, but increasingly,
the cheese makers are experimenting and washing cheese in sake or green tea or decorating
them with cherry blossoms and selling them in their own small shops and cafés.
JIANGSU
Potaje
ZHEJIANG HOKKAIDO
Robiora,
Sakura
PUJIAN
JAPAN
Mori No Cheese,
Petit Nuage,
Serendipity
Camembleu
HONSHU
Provolone
Kachokabaro
SHIKOKU
KYUSHU
100 miles
100 km
CHINA
JA PA N
well with the spicy, slightly moldy is slightly sour with a rich lingering
taste and aroma of the blue. The rind milky flavor when young. With age the TASTING NOTES Supple with lots of
is fluffy rather than crusty. taste becomes dense with umami. small eyes, both aroma and taste are
reminiscent of fallen leaves in the forest,
HOW TO ENJOY The Japanese seem to love HOW TO ENJOY Cut into chunks and put with a wonderful strong robust flavor.
it with jam or honey, and almost any on a brochette, then melt or grate and
cheese goes well with a light Japanese use in various recipes. HOW TO ENJOY Excellent with medium-
beer or glass of sake. to full-bodied red wine or rice wine.
JAPAN Mihari, Nagano JAPAN Kaga-gun Kibi Chuo, Okayama JAPAN Matsumoto, Nagano
Age 3–4 weeks Age 2–3 months Age 3–8 weeks
Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), round Weight and Shape 1lb 2oz–1lb 14oz Weight and Shape 9–101⁄2oz (250–300g),
Size D. 4in (11cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) (500g–850g), teardrop or pear round
Milk Cow (Jersey, Holstein) Size D. 41⁄2in (11cm), L. 57⁄8in (15cm) Size Various, D. 41⁄2in (10.5cm), H. 11⁄2in 323
Milk Cow (3.5cm) (pictured)
Classification Blue
Classification Semi-soft, pasta filata Milk Cow
Producers Atelier de Fromage
Producer Yoshida Farm Classification Semi-soft
Producer Shimizu Farm
Provolone Robiola Sakura
The expense of importing cheese from Based on the popular Italian cheese The cherry blossom, known as Sakura
Europe has led to the development of the same name (see p134), Robiola in Japan, which for just a week every
of many great Japanese alternatives means “to become red” in Italian, and year paints the country cotton-candy
such as this one, which is based on refers to the reddish hue that develops pink, inspired the cheesemaker to
the famous Italian stretched curd on the rind as a result of washing with create Japan’s first original cheese.
cheese of the same name (see p130). grappa (grape-based spirit). It is Produced on the cooperative Kyodo
produced by Shiranuka Farm, which is Gakusha Shintoku Farm.
C H I N A A N D JA PA N
TASTING NOTES It has a sweet, melted situated near the coast on the east side
butter taste, a fine, slightly smoked of Hokkaido. TASTING NOTES Mild, lemony with a
wax-covered rind, and a subtle smoky melt-in-the-mouth feel. When ripe
aroma. TASTING NOTES It is a strong, pungent, it becomes creamy beneath the soft
meaty cheese with the classic supple rind and the aroma deepens.
HOW TO ENJOY The taste is more intense texture of washed-rind cheeses.
when cooked. Try baking it on rice HOW TO ENJOY This elegant addition to a
cakes, especially those made with local HOW TO ENJOY It is delicious grilled on cheese board can be served with green
rice, Nitamai, or on Okuizumo beef, oysters, or with potatoes, full-bodied red tea or red wine, such as Pinot Noir. It
and serve with soy sauce. It also works wine, or locally made grape jam. is also great with grilled Kobe beef.
well when baked with honey.
JAPAN Unnan, Shimane JAPAN Shiranuka Gun, Hokkaido JAPAN Shiranuka Gun, Hokkaido
Age 1–3 months Age 4–8 weeks Age 2–4 weeks
Weight and Shape 13oz (380g), drum Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb–31⁄4lb (1–1.5kg), Weight and Shape 3oz (90g), round
round
Size D. 3in (8cm), H 2in (4.5cm) Size D. 23⁄4 in (6.5cm), H. 1in (2.5cm)
324 Milk Cow
Size D. 81⁄2in (22cm), H. 1in (2.5cm)
Milk Cow
Milk Cow
Classification Semi-soft Classification Soft White
Classification Semi-soft
Producer Kisuki Nyugyo Producer Kyodo Gakusha Shintoku Farm
Producer Shiranuka Farm
Petit Nuage
Based on the Corsican cheese Brocciu,
Petit Nuage is made from the whey
of Brown Swiss cows. Its name, “small
cloud” in French, refers to its small size
and white appearance. After draining,
the fresh cheese is turned out of its
molds bearing the imprint of the
basket weave.
JA PA N
well with the herbs, and subtle rice oil nutty, rich lingering flavor and aroma.
gives a delicate flavor. Its deep yellow color is the result of the
lush, green summer pastures. Potaje
HOW TO ENJOY Best enjoyed with a little
oil on fresh bread, or spread on rice HOW TO ENJOY Delicious on a cheese plate The name Potaje or “potage” means
crackers with a glass of rosé. It is also served with coffee, roasted green tea, “kitchen garden,” as the rosemary and
good in salads. salad, or Hakushaku potatoes. thyme that cover the cheese are from the
garden. The goats at Ranran Farm graze
against the beautiful backdrop of the
JAPAN Matsumoto, Nagano JAPAN Shibetsu Gun, Hokkaido
Tokachi Millennium Forest, giving milk
Age From 10 days to a few months Age 6–18 months
with a sweet, mild taste.
Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (160g), jars Weight and Shape 22–25lb (10–11kg),
wheel TASTINGS NOTES Light and crumbly
Size D. 2in (5.2cm), H 1in (2.5cm)
Milk Goat Size D. 14in (36cm), H 4in (10cm) texture with a subtle, aromatic taste 325
Classification Fresh Milk Cow from the lovely goat’s milk, infused
Producer Kaze No Tani Farm Classification Hard with the scent of the fresh herbs.
Producer Mitomo Farm A lemony finish.
AUSTRALIA
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
GREAT AUSTRALIAN
BIGHT
Washington Washrind
Woodside Edith
N
200 miles Holy Goat La Luna,
Holy Goat Pandora
200 km Richard Thomas Fromage Blanc,
Yarra Valley Dairy Persian Fetta
VICTORIA
Meredith Blue
Shaw River
Buffalo Mozzarella
Ironstone Extra
INDIAN OCEAN
NORTHERN Gunnamatta Gold Gippsland Blue,
TERRITORY CORAL SEA Jenson’s Red Washed
Rind,
AUSTRALIA Roaring Forties, Strzelecki Blue
Stormy
WESTERN QUEENSLAND BASS STRAIT
AUSTRALIA PACIFIC OCEAN
SOUTH
AUSTRALIA Healey’s Pyengana
NEW SOUTH
WALES Heidi Farm Gruyère,
Heidi Farm Raclette
TASMAN SEA
VICTORIA TASMANIA
NEW ZEALAND European migrants to New Zealand in the early 1800s had to bring
cattle and cheesemaking skills with them. Small-scale family production of cheddar
and Cheshire gave way to farmer-owned cooperatives, and the first dairy factory
opened in Edendale in 1882. With refrigerated shipping, cheddar became a major
export by the 1840s; by the 1920s, cheese and butter were being exported to England.
When Dutch cheesemakers migrated to New Zealand in the 1980s with their
traditional recipes, the revival of small-scale artisan cheesemaking began. With
a growing awareness of the wider cheese world, cheesemakers began producing
alternatives to the great cheeses of Europe and creating unique artisanal cheeses.
south of Hobart, with his partner Leonie is produced on the island, the cheese is Based on Gorgonzola, its milk comes
in 2005. C2 was his first cheese, named made from the milk from a single herd from the farm’s Holstein Friesian cows
after the vat in which it was created. of Saanen goats near Cygnet on the and is matured on wooden shelves in
mainland. It is named after a beloved special underground cellars built deep
TASTING NOTES Best when at least family goat that once guarded the beneath the farm dairy.
9 months old, when it develops a vegetable patch next to the dairy.
deliciously rich, complex nutty flavor TASTING NOTES This rich and creamy blue
with a hint of caramel and mouth- TASTING NOTES Ripened under an elegant, is at its best when it develops a soft
tingling tang. thick natural slate-colored rind, the and sticky texture punctuated with
pure white dense interior is subtly steely blue veins.
HOW TO ENJOY Ideal cheese for sauces nutty with fresh herbal overtones.
or melting, or as is on a cheese board. HOW TO ENJOY A very seasonal cheese—
Match with a dry Tasmanian Riesling. HOW TO ENJOYEnjoy simply with crusty recommended from late fall to early
sourdough bread and a glass of chilled summer—to be enjoyed with an
Tasmanian sparkling wine. Australian late-harvest sweet wine.
AUSTRALIA Bruny Island, Tasmania AUSTRALIA Bruny Island, Tasmania AUSTRALIA Neerim South, Victoria
Age 9–12 months Age 4–6 months Age 2–3 months
Weight and Shape 13lb (7kg), drum Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), drum Weight and Shape 12lb (5.5kg), wheel
Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 7in (18cm) Size D. 5in (12cm), H. 3in (7cm) Size D. 6in (15cm), H. 91⁄2in (24cm)
328 Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow
Classification Hard Classification Hard Classification Blue
Producer Bruny Island Cheese Company Producer Bruny Island Cheese Company Producer Tarago River Cheese
Gunnamatta Gold Gympie Farmhouse Healey’s Pyengana
Created by Trevor and Jan Brandon at Chèvre Dating back to 1901, this venerable
the tiny Red Hill cheesery on Victoria’s Camille Mortaud learned his craft in cheese from the lush George River
Mornington Peninsula, this cheese is the Poitou-Charentes region of France, Valley is the oldest surviving traditional
handmade using organic milk from a renowned for its aged fresh cheeses, clothbound Australian cheese.
farm at Fish Creek in Gippsland. Open and follows the traditions at Conondale Originally made by a cooperative, the
to the public, the cheesery is only an hour in the hinterland behind the Sunshine “washed curd” Colby recipe was adopted
from Melbourne and takes its name from Coast in southeast Queensland using by the Healey family and is now
one of the peninsula’s best surf breaks. milk sourced from nearby Kingaroy. handmade from the milk of its herd of
Holstein Friesian cows.
AUSTRALIA
TASTING NOTES Beneath the slightly TASTING NOTES The rind turns a gray
sticky terra-cotta rind lies a soft and dusty blue the longer the cheese is aged TASTING NOTES Made in various sizes,
creamy cheese with a delicious rich and can be quite strong; the interior but the most sought-after are the large
finish and a hint of smoke. has a delightful savory flavor with a wheels matured for at least a year until
delicious lingering goaty finish. the moist, open texture develops herbal
HOW TO ENJOY Like all intense washed- hints of pasture and honey.
rind cheeses, it needs a spicy, aromatic HOW TO ENJOY Ideal with crusty bread
wine, such as a Mornington Peninsula and a crisp dry white wine, or melted Ideal with crusty bread
HOW TO ENJOY
Pinot Noir, and crusty bread. and served with wild arugula salad. and a Tasmanian cider or Pinot Noir.
AUSTRALIA Mornington Peninsula, Victoria AUSTRALIA Gympie, Queensland AUSTRALIA Pyengana, Tasmania
Age 4–5 weeks Age 3–4 weeks Age 9–18 months
Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), round Weight and Shape 4oz (110g), cylinder Weight and Shape 401⁄2lb (18.5kg), wheel
Size D. 4in (10cm), H.1in (2.5cm) Size D. 2in (5cm), L. 21⁄2in (6cm) Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 8in (20cm)
Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow
329
Classification Semi-soft Classification Aged fresh Classification Hard
Producer Red Hill Cheese Producer Gympie Farm Cheese Producer Pyengana Cheese Factory
Heidi Farm Gruyère Heidi Farm Raclette Holy Goat La Luna
Weighing in at 66lb (30kg), this is Very successfully adapted in the 1980s Holy Goat was established at Sutton
Australia’s largest handmade artisan by farmer and master cheesemaker Grange Organic Farm in 2001, when
cheese and has won many accolades Frank Marchand from the traditional Carla Meurs and Anne-Marie Monda
AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND
since it was launched by Swiss migrant Swiss raclette, this uses Friesian milk returned from studying artisan goat
and cheesemaker Frank Marchand. from several local farms and has since cheese in Europe. All cheese is
Heidi Farm is now owned by National won many national awards. handmade in their small dairy using
Foods, but the cheese is still handmade. organic milk from a herd of 60 very
TASTING NOTES Beneath the cheese’s pampered goats.
TASTING NOTES Sold at various ages, but sticky, slightly “smelly” terra-cotta rind
at its best when aged for at least a year, lies a creamy pliable interior with a TASTING NOTES Beneath the rind of this
when its smooth, concentrated texture melange of grassy farm flavors and unusual ring of goat cheese covered
develops an intensely rich, slightly a hint of sweetness. with a creeping, wrinkled gray mold
nutty flavor with a hint of honey. lies a pure white curd with deliciously
HOW TO ENJOY A delicious table cheese, complex lingering nutty flavors.
HOW TO ENJOY A wonderful melting or enjoy cut in half and grilled in the
cheese, this is particularly good as a traditional manner in front of a hot HOW TO ENJOY Perfect with crusty bread
base for macaroni and cheese. Great grill. Serve with Pink Eye or similar and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc, La
with a full-bodied red wine. potatoes and a dry Riesling. Luna also bakes and melts well.
AUSTRALIA Exton, Tasmania AUSTRALIA Exton, Tasmania AUSTRALIA Sutton Grange, Victoria
Age 9–12 months Age 2–4 months Age 4–6 weeks
Weight and Shape 66lb (30kg), wheel Weight and Shape 8lb 13oz (4kg), wheel Weight and Shape 3lb (1.4kg), disc
Size D. 18in (46cm), H. 4in (10cm) Size D. 12in (30cm), H. 3in (7cm) Size D. 9in (23cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm)
330 Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Goat
Classification Hard Classification Semi-soft Classification Aged fresh
Producer Heidi Farm Producer Heidi Farm Producer Holy Goat Organic Cheeses
Holy Goat Pandora Ironstone Extra Jensen’s Red
The name says it all! This small drum After studying overseas, Steven Brown Washed Rind
is ripened under a cocktail of molds. returned home to the family farm near This bulging soft cheese from Tarago
It was created by Carla Meurs and Neerim South in Gippsland to set up a River near Neerim South in Gippsland,
Anne-Marie Monda to be enjoyed at small dairy. Ironstone is based on a Victoria, is named after one of the dairy
one sitting, and customers claim it traditional Dutch Boerenkaas recipe. founders—cheesemaker Laurie Jensen.
pairs with everything and never fails All cheese is made between spring and Made on the farm using Friesian
to please. fall from the farm’s small herd of Holstein milk, it is matured on wooden
Holstein Friesians, to ensure that the shelves and hand-washed until it
TASTING NOTES At its best when the rich pastures are reflected in the cheese. develops a bright orange rind.
AUSTRALIA
chalky center has an irresistible soft
creamy texture that rarely fails to TASTING NOTES Matured for up to two TASTING NOTES Beneath the “stinky” rind
satisfy with its luxurious feel and years, Ironstone Extra develops a with its hint of yeast and eucalyptus
refreshingly mild goat flavor. sensational rich, buttery caramel flavor lies a rich fudgy texture with a mild
reminiscent of shortbread. and creamy flavor.
HOW TO ENJOY Cut off the lid, dig out the
center in large dollops like clotted HOW TO ENJOY A wonderful addition to HOW TO ENJOYIdeal for a cheese board.
cream, and enjoy with a glass of any cheese board, or serve in chunks Serve with or without the rind, with
Sauvignon Blanc or rosé. with an aperitif. crusty bread and sparkling white wine.
AUSTRALIA Sutton Grange, Victoria AUSTRALIA Drouin West, Victoria AUSTRALIA Neerin South, Victoria
Age 2–3 weeks Age 18–24 months Age 4–5 weeks
Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), cylinder Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg), boulder Weight and Shape 3lb (1.3kg), round
Size D. 2in (5cm), H. 2in (5cm) Size D. 9in (23cm), H. 41⁄2in (11cm) Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 1in (2.5cm)
Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Cow
331
Classification Aged fresh Classification Hard Classification Semi-soft
Producer Holy Goat Organic Cheeses Producer Piano Hill Producer Tarago River Cheese
Meredith Blue Richard Thomas Roaring Forties
The first Australian ewe’s milk blue Fromage Blanc This full-flavored blue cheese is aptly
was created in 1990 at the Cameron This soft, tender hand-ladled cow’s named for the strong westerly winds
family dairy using milk from the milk curd from Richard Thomas is that buffet King Island, which lies in
AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND
largest flock of dairy ewes in Australia. fresh cheese at its simple best. Using Bass Strait and is famous for the many
This handmade cheese is still matured milk from the Yarra Valley, it is shipwrecks along its isolated coast.
in old shipping containers next to the beautifully presented in self-draining Straw mattresses washed up from the
dairy, which has an enviable reputation containers that ensure that the whey wrecks are said to be responsible for
for its goat’s and ewe’s milk cheeses does not sour the cheese. the island’s grasses and ultimately the
and yogurt. quality of the milk.
TASTING NOTES Its delicate, silky,
TASTING NOTES Ewe’s milk is highly exceptionally moist texture has the TASTING NOTES The combination of rich
seasonal, but is at its best in early unmistakable sweet lactic perfume creamy milk, blue roqueforti molds, and
spring, when the soft ivory interior of a dairy, with a refreshingly mild a coating of dark blue wax ensures that
texture of the cheese develops dark lemony acidity. this dependable cheese is always very
pockets of salty blue molds. moist in texture with a sweet salty tang.
HOW TO ENJOY At its best served cold as it
HOW TO ENJOY Serve with toasted walnut comes, or with homemade preserves or HOW TO ENJOY Serve with dark rye bread,
bread or drizzled with local honey. fresh berries for a breakfast treat. and match with a sweet fortified wine.
AUSTRALIA Meredith, Victoria AUSTRALIA Yarra Valley, Victoria AUSTRALIA Loorana, King Island, Tasmania
Age 8–12 months Age 1–2 days Age 10–12 weeks
Weight and Shape 21⁄4lb (1kg), drum Weight and Shape 31⁄2oz (100g), pot Weight and Shape 3lb (1.3kg), drum
Size D. 51⁄2in (14cm), H. 3in (7cm) Size D. 3in (7cm), H. 3in (8cm) Size D. 71⁄2in (19cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm)
332 Milk Ewe Milk Cow Milk Cow
Classification Blue Classification Fresh Classification Blue
Producer Meredith Dairy Producer Richard Thomas Producer King Island Dairy
Shaw River Buffalo Stormy Strzelecki Blue
Mozzarella Another great Australian washed-rind Pawel Strzelecki was the first person to
Roger Haldene imported the first dairy cheese, this is named after Stormy Bay discover gold in Australia in 1835, and
buffalo into Australia in 1996 against on the windswept coast of King Island, it seems appropriate that his name is
all odds and red tape. The herd grazes Tasmania, renowned for its rich and now attached to this striking blue. It
on the lush coastal pastures beside the creamy cheeses. Stormy was originally uses milk from a single nearby farm
Shaw River, and son-in-law Andrew created by cheesemaker Frank and is matured in underground cellars
Royal is the cheesemaker. Beurain, using techniques borrowed beneath the dairy.
from the traditional washed-rind
TASTING NOTES Unlike in Europe, the cheeses of Northern Europe. TASTING NOTES A seasonal cheese at its
AUSTRALIA
herd is pasture-based year-round, with optimum with spring or fall milk, it is
the richest, sweetest milk produced TASTING NOTES The soft, buttery paste quick to mature and best when its soft
during the warmer months, especially beneath the “smelly” tangerine-colored creamy interior is threaded with steely
late summer and early fall. rind has a very mild creamy flavor and blue veins and the slightly sweet flavor
slightly salty sea-breeze finish. has a distinct savory tang.
HOW TO ENJOY The slightly firm texture
makes it ideal for pizza. Also delicious HOW TO ENJOY Great on a cheese board, HOW TO ENJOYPerfect for a cheese board
with vine-ripened tomatoes, fresh basil, melted on pizza with cracked pepper, or accompanied by a glass of dessert wine
and extra virgin olive oil. served with baked potatoes and beer. or a Gippsland Pinot.
AUSTRALIA Yambuk, Victoria AUSTRALIA Loorana, King Island, Tasmania AUSTRALIA Neerim South, Victoria
Age Within a few days of production Age 4–5 weeks Age 2–3 months
Weight and Shape 1oz (50g), ball Weight and Shape 51⁄2oz (150g), brick Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), drum
Size D. 31⁄2in (9cm), H. 21⁄2in (6.5cm) Size L. 4in (10cm), W. 11⁄2in (4cm), Size D. 8in (20cm), H. 71⁄2in (19cm)
Milk Buffalo H. 1in (2.5cm) Milk Goat
333
Classification Fresh Milk Cow Classification Blue
Producer Shaw River Buffalo Cheese Classification Semi-soft Producer Tarago River Cheese
Producer King Island Dairy
Washington Washrind Woodside Edith Yarra Valley Dairy
Victoria McClurg established Barossa Kris Lloyd makes several dozen original Persian Fetta
Valley Cheese Company in Angaston’s cow’s and goat’s milk cheeses; Edith is There are dozens of marinated
main street in 2003, after extensive one of the oldest and takes its name feta-style cheeses in Australia, but the
AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND
winemaking travels in Europe. The from the Frenchwoman who provided first was created by Richard Thomas in
dairy makes a range of washed-rind the original recipe. Its secret is milk 1994, inspired by a Persian recipe and
cheeses using cow’s and goat’s milk. quality, handling, and slow overnight using milk collected from Yarra Valley
The strongest is Washington. fermentation, before being smothered in Dairy’s herd of Holstein Friesian cows.
black vine ash and ripened.
TASTING NOTES A small orange disc with a TASTING NOTES Creamy chunks of curd
very distinct and indiscreet aroma. TASTING NOTES Deliciously nutty when are marinated in a powerful garlicky
Beneath the sticky rind lies a smooth young, it ages gracefully, as the chalky blend of oils infused with crushed
silky paste with a mild creamy flavor. center gradually breaks down to a garlic, fresh thyme, and spices.
smooth clotted texture.
HOW TO ENJOY Perfect on a cheese board, HOW TO ENJOY This surprisingly versatile
the yeasty flavors in the rind match Ideal on a cheese board
HOW TO ENJOY cheese can be enjoyed straight from the
well with the local Coopers ale and matched with crusty bread and jar on toast or biscuits, drizzled over
wood-fired sourdough bread. Use Sauvignon Blanc. steamed vegetables, or as an instant
sparingly when cooking. dressing for a salad.
AUSTRALIA Angaston, South Australia AUSTRALIA Woodside, South Australia AUSTRALIA Yarra Valley, Victoria
Age 4–5 weeks Age 3–4 weeks Age 1–2 months
Weight and Shape 8oz (220g), round Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), drum Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), tin
Size D. 4in (10cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 11⁄2in (4cm) Size D. 3in (7.5cm), H. 3in (8cm)
334 Milk Cow Milk Goat Milk Cow
Classification Semi-soft, washed Classification Natural rind Classification Fresh
Producer Barossa Valley Cheese Company Producer Woodside Cheese Wrights Producer Yarra Valley Dairy
NEW ZEALAND
NEW ZEALAND
TASTING NOTES Using a classic Gouda rinded cheddar in New Zealand, its fresh mozzarella are the most popular.
recipe, the small dumpling-shaped hefty rounds are waxed and matured
cheeses come in flavors including for anything up to five years. At their TASTING NOTES They have perfected
fenugreek, with a flavor reminiscent of best, these rounds are hard and the art of trapping the milky whey.
curry and fresh walnuts that goes well granular, with a sweet but sharp
with the supple, creamy cheese. mustard flavor. HOW TO ENJOY Serve fresh with ripe
tomatoes, basil, balsamic vinegar,
HOW TO ENJOY The curry flavor lends itself HOW TO ENJOY Best with good bread and and grassy olive oil.
well to salads, grilled over potatoes or chutney, or an apple, and a bottle of
vegetables, or grated into soups. handmade Canterbury beer.
NEW ZEALANDTe Aroha, Waikato NEW ZEALAND Barry’s Bay, Canterbury NEW ZEALAND Clevedon, South Auckland
Age 3–5 weeks Age 2–5 years Age1–4 days old
Weight and Shape 2lb (950g). boulder Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg) and Weight and Shape 3oz (80g)–41⁄2oz
Size D. 5in (13cm), H. 2.5in (6cm) 91⁄2lb (4.5kg) truckles, 79lb (36kg), round (125g), balls
Milk Goat Size truckle: D. 41⁄2in (11cm) and 61⁄2in Size Various 335
(17cm), H. 51⁄2in (14cm) and 61⁄2in (17cm); Milk Buffalo
Classification Hard round: D. 151⁄2in (40cm), H. 14in (35cm)
Producer Aroha Organic Goat Cheese Classification Fresh
Milk Cow
Producer Clevedon Valley Buffalo
Classification Hard
Producer Barry’s Bay Traditional Cheeses
Burrata Cilantro Fresh Chevre Coppermine
Massimo Lubisco fell in love with Mônica Salerno, Brazilian with Italian Jill and Ade Walcroft make a range of
New Zealand while on vacation in 2004 heritage, and Jenny Oldham, from the soft cheeses from organic milk sourced
and recognized the growing demand King Country, were both research from Pohangina Valley in the Manawatu.
AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND
for quality food and a lack of fresh scientists at Ruakura when they decided Washed in brine, it is named after a
mozzarella. In 2010, he followed to make cheese. Their efficient handling stream in the Ruahine Range where
his dream and set up his own ensures that none of the billy goat notes copper was discovered in 1887.
cheesemaking business in Auckland. taint the curd.
TASTING NOTES The thin, copper-colored
TASTING NOTES Cream and strips of TASTING NOTESBright white whipped washed rind, dusted with white
mozzarella (fior di latte when made curd with a smooth, mousselike feel Penicillium candidum, hints of
with cow’s milk) are stuffed inside a in the mouth that melts like ice cream, farmyards and mushrooms. It has a
mozzarella shell, then squeezed shut. releasing lemony fresh acidity and warm-yellow interior that is velvety
It is rich, buttery, yet feather-light, with subtle aromatic, herbaceous notes. smooth with savory notes on the finish.
the fresh sweetness of the organic milk.
HOW TO ENJOY It spreads easily, bakes HOW TO ENJOY On a cheese board with a
HOW TO ENJOY Use in salads or dishes superbly, and the subtle taste lends glass of Pohangina Valley Estate Pinot
that involve tomatoes, fresh herbs, itself to many brochette or canapé ideas Gris or a hoppy Pilsner, or grilled over
olive oil, and cracked black pepper. with a glass of New Zealand Sauvignon. potatoes, onions, and smoked bacon.
NEW ZEALAND Auckland NEW ZEALAND Ruakura Campus, Hamilton NEW ZEALAND Pohangina, Palmerston North
Age 1–2 days Age A few days Age 8–10 weeks
Weight and Shape 41⁄2oz (125g), money Weight and Shape 5–6oz (140–180g), log Weight and Shape 61⁄2oz (180g), round
pouch Size L. 31⁄2in (9cm), W. 21⁄2in (6cm), Size D. 4in (9.5cm), H. 1in (2.5cm)
336 Size D. 21⁄2in (6cm), H. 23⁄4in (7cm) H. 2in (5cm) Milk Cow, organic
Milk Cow, organic Milk Goat Classification Semi-soft
Classification Fresh Classification Fresh Producer Cartwheel Creamery
Producer Massimo’s Italian Cheeses Producer Cilantro Cheese
Crescent Dairy Curio Bay Pecorino Dirty Devil
Farmhouse Blue River sources milk from 3,000 It was almost inevitable that a talented
Jan Walter, one of New Zealand’s finest crossbred East Friesian ewes on its cheesemaker like Jan Walter would be
cheesemakers, and husband John have own farms. This cheese, along with tempted to try her hand at making a
just 25 goats, yet this simple hard cheese Tussock Feta and other cheeses, is the washed rind cheese despite the fact
is a consistent winner, year after year, at result of the unique grazing and head that they are difficult to make and are
the New Zealand Cheese Awards. cheesemaker Maxi Robertson’s talent not to everyone’s taste.
and commitment to quality.
TASTING NOTES It varies from one day to TASTING NOTES This small cone is hand-
NEW ZEALAND
the next. Sometimes, coconut milk is TASTING NOTES Dense, smooth when young washed with brine every few days for
discernible, sometimes cinnamon and with a sweetness like salted caramel, three weeks, then finished with French
thyme, but all develop a fresh, earthy, becoming granular, almost crumbly Brandy. Beneath its farmyard aroma,
goaty flavor. It is best when still moist with age. It develops a slightly gamey its taste is savory, rich, and meaty.
and slightly soft. taste with a salty edge on the finish
HOW TO ENJOY Extremely popular on
HOW TO ENJOYToo precious to be a mere HOW TO ENJOY Eat in chunks with crusty cheese boards in many of New
sandwich filling, it should be savored bread and quince paste. Grate onto Zealand’s top restaurants, and best
with a good Sauvignon Blanc. pasta, risotto, or polenta, or shave onto served with a dry Riesling or cool beer.
salads. Pair with fruity red wines.
NEW ZEALAND Auckland, Auckland NEW ZEALAND Invercargill, Southland NEW ZEALAND Kumeu, Auckland
Age 6–12 months Age 10–14 months Age 30–40 days
Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), round Weight and Shape 41⁄2lb (2kg), round Weight and Shape 7oz (200g),
Size D. 61⁄2in (17cm), H. 31⁄4in (8cm) Size D. 5in (13cm), H. 4in (10cm) truncated cone
Milk Goat Milk Ewe Size D. 23⁄4in (7cm), H. 23⁄4in (7cm) 337
Classification Hard Classification Hard Milk Goat
Producer Crescent Dairy Goats Producers Blue River Dairy Products Classification Semi-soft
Producer Crescent Dairy Goats
Evansdale Hohepa Danbo Kallarney Blue
Farmhouse Brie Hohepa offers curative education In 1996 Kelvin Haigh set up The
Set up in 1979 by schoolteacher Colin and social therapy to people with Cheese Barn, near Thames, where he
Dennison to utilize excess milk from intellectual disabilities. It is an makes and sells at the cafe a wide
AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND
the family cow, and managed by son amazing place with a masterpiece of a range of cheese and dairy products,
Paul, Evansdale remains small, cheese made with “biodynamic” milk, mostly from their small herd of organic
hands-on, and quirky. Its Farmhouse which gives complexity and character cows. Kallarney is their only blue.
Brie has become a New Zealand icon. to the final product.
TASTING NOTES The texture is pleasantly
TASTING NOTES Smaller and twice as thick TASTING NOTES The deep yellow interior, crumbly and drier than most New
as traditional Brie, the Evansdale has a dotted with tiny holes, is chewy yet Zealand blues, with streaks of
fluffy white candidum rind, a smooth creamy. When young, it has a savory crunchy blue that have a spicy tang.
and buttery center, and a taste that is taste that carries hints of warm bread, It gradually becomes creamy in the
both sweet and yogurty sharp. thyme, and raw onion. The aged cheese mouth and has a light salty finish.
has a deeper color and more flavor.
HOW TO ENJOY: Excellent with buttery HOW TO ENJOY Can be crumbled into
Chardonnay or spritzy Champagne. Try HOW TO ENJOY Serve with a glass of salads with fresh walnuts and apples, or
with a fresh fruit platter of apricots, fresh apple juice or Gimblett Gravels try it with a light beer or dry Riesling.
nectarines, and peaches. Pinot Noir.
NEW ZEALAND Waikouaiti, Otago NEW ZEALAND Clive, Hawkes Bay NEW ZEALAND Matatoki, Thames
Age 5–10 weeks Age 4–9 months Age 4–5 months
Weight and Shape 3lb (1.3kg), round Weight and Shape 14lb (6.5kg), boulder Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2.5kg), drum
Size D. 6in (16cm), H. 3in (7cm) Size D. 11in (27cm), H. 4in (13cm) Size D. 7in (18cm), H. 4in (10cm)
338 Milk Cow Milk Cow Milk Cow
Classification Soft white Classification Hard Classification Blue
Producer Evansdale Cheese Producer Hohepa Hawkes Bay Producer The Cheese Barn
Karikaas Vintage Kinzell Creek Mahoe Vintage Edam
Leyden Tucked away in the Tui Valley, the New Zealand’s northernmost
In 1984, Rients and Karen Rypma Trafford family farm has around commercial cheesemakers are situated
established Karikaas Dairy and 80 cows and makes a wide range of in lush Oromahoe in the Bay of Islands.
helped resurrect traditional Dutch dairy products. They have a holistic The Rosevears have been making cheese
cheesemaking. In 2004, two families, approach to their business and believe from their cow’s milk since 1986. Made
the Lamers and the Hawkins, bought it produces content, robust, disease- with reduced-fat milk
the business and now continue to make resistant animals; top quality milk,
traditional Dutch cheeses. and great cheese. TASTING NOTESWith tastes of butterscotch
NEW ZEALAND
and caramel, a lactic acid tang, and
TESTING NOTES Leyden is a classic Gouda TASTING NOTES Beneath a slightly sticky a finish with a savory bite; it has a
scattered with cumin seeds, giving it a dark rind dotted with white and red supple testure when young, but like
sweet taste with a hint of curry. At two molds, it has a supple, smooth texture a Parmesan with crunchy crystals
years old, it is drier, sharper, and and a salty butter taste with hints when aged.
caramel-sweet. of damp leaves and meadow hay.
HOW TO ENJOY Excellent with white or
HOW TO ENJOY Melted over potatoes, or try HOW TO ENJOY Servewith nuts, fresh dessert wines, it pairs well with a
with cured meats. The cumin works well apples, and chutney alongside a local full-bodied red or Trappiste beer.
with mulled red wine, dark ale, and stout. woody Chardonnay or pale ale.
NEW ZEALAND Loburn, Canterbury NEW ZEALAND Tapawera, Nelson NEW ZEALAND Kerikeri, Northland
Age 6–36 months Age 6–8 weeks Age 18–24 months
Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg), boulder Weight and Shape 51⁄2lb (2.5kg), round Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg) or 22lb
Size D. 121⁄2in (32cm), H. 5in (12cm) Size D. 6in (14cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) (10kg), round
Milk Cow Milk Cow Size D. 9in (23cm) or 13in (33cm) 339
H. 4in (10cm) or 41⁄2in (11cm)
Classification Flavor-added Classification Semi-soft
Milk Cow
Producer Karikaas Dairy Producer Wangapeka Family Dairy
Classification Hard
Producer Mahoe Farmhouse Cheese
Meadowcroft Farm Mercer Maasdam Meyer Vintage Gouda
Goat’s Curd Maasdam is made by several of New Named as “Cheese of the Decade” by
Tim and Kylie Connell took over from Zealand’s Dutch cheesemakers, the author in 2003, this vintage Gouda
Averill Turnbull in 2013 and continue including Albert Alfrink of Mercer has been handmade by the Meyer
AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND
to make simple but delicious goat Cheese. He sells it from his small shop, family since the 1980s. Next generation
cheeses. Based in Golden Bay, their which is packed with hundreds of Miel and his brother Geert took over in
60 goats graze on free-range pastures different Dutch-style cheeses. 2004, and continue to make outstanding
overlooking the sea, giving the milk its cheeses using the original recipe.
herbaceous, sweet flavor. TASTING NOTES Special bacteria are added
to the milk to produce the small holes TASTING NOTES Smooth, chewy, and
TASTING NOTES Whether it is plain, rolled in the soft, supple interior and the caramel-sweet, with a savory tang and
in fresh herbs, or marinated in oil, the fermenting fruit sweetness that a sprinkling of calcium crystals. At
curd possesses a finely tuned balance of mellows out with age, when it becomes three years, it is as dark, intense, and
acidity and salt, and a texture that is more like an Emmental. rock-hard as any Dutch Boerenkaas.
moist and very slightly granular.
HOW TO ENJOY Excellent with cured meats, HOW TO ENJOY Eat in generous chunks
HOW TO ENJOYPerfect on crusty bread particularly ham, it melts beautifully, with sourdough bread, or in a toasted
with Sauvignon Blanc or Champagne, also making it ideal on pizza or in a sandwich with onions. Match with
or spooned over fresh fruit and honey. fondue. Lovely with a malty beer or cider. lighter red wines or lager.
NEW ZEALAND Golden Bay, Tasman NEW ZEALAND Hamilton, Waikato NEW ZEALAND Hamilton, Waikato
Age 0–5 weeks Age 4–7 months Age 18–24 months
Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), packet Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg), fat boulder Weight and Shape 22lb (10kg), boulder
Size No size Size D. 13in (33cm), H. 41⁄2in (11cm) Size D. 13in (33cm), H. 5in (12cm)
340 Milk Goat Milk Cow Milk Cow
Classification Fresh Classification Semi-soft Classification Hard
Producer Meadowcroft Farm Producer Mercer Cheese Producer Meyer Gouda Cheese
Mt. Eliza Red Leicester Mt. Tamahunga Neudorf
Cheesemakers Chris and Jill Whalley Annie and Phil Armstrong have 16 Richmond Red
started making cheese in 2007. The Red buffalo that graze the wild pastures New Zealand’s first ewe’s milk cheese,
Leicester curd is finely cut and twice- near Matakana. Phil looks after the this was created by Kate Light in the
milled to give it a uniquely authentic herd and Annie makes the cheese. late 1990s. Brian Beuke, her milk
close texture, while the annatto gives Together they produce some supplier, has now taken up the mantle
it the bright orange color. They also exceptional cheeses. “Tama” means and continues to make this great cheese.
make excellent handmade, clothbound youthful and “hunga” eruption.
traditional cheddar. TASTING NOTES At ten months it is firm
NEW ZEALAND
TASTING NOTES A caramel-colored with nutty and caramelized onion
TASTING NOTES This cheese is dense, pyramid with a soft, tightly wrinkled sweetness. At 20 months, it has a
smooth, and slightly sweet, with a strong rind, dusted with fine white mold. It harder feel and more intense flavors
bite at the back of the tongue. It is earthy has a nutty and mushroomy aroma and but less salty than Italian pecorino.
and deep-flavored near the rind. taste, with hints of vanilla and thyme
in the finish. HOW TO ENJOY When young, it is
HOW TO ENJOY Pair with darker beers wonderful with sliced pears or quince
and real ale; it is perfect in a sandwich HOW TO ENJOY Pair with a rosé and a paste, and the aged is ideal grated on
with raw onion or peppery watercress, loaf of fresh crusty bread from the risotto or spaghetti. Serve with a red or
and makes a good Welsh rarebit. Matakana Farmers Market white wine from the Neudorf vineyard.
NEW ZEALAND Katikati, Bay of Plenty NEW ZEALAND Whangaripo, Matakana NEW ZEALAND Upper Moutere, Nelson
Age 8–10 months Age 2–4 weeks Age 10–20 months
Weight and Shape 171⁄2lb (8kg), wheel Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), pyramid Weight and Shape 3lb 3oz (1.5kg), round
Size D. 91⁄2in (24cm), H. 6in (16cm) Size L. 3in (8cm), W. 2in (5cm), H 21⁄2in Size D. 5in (13cm), H. 21⁄2in (6cm)
Milk Cow (6cm), Milk Ewe
341
Classification Hard Milk Buffalo Classification Hard
Producer Mount Eliza Cheese Classification Aged fresh Producer Neudorf Dairy
Producer Whangaripo Buffalo Cheese
Parihaka Pink & White Terraces St. Benedict the Black
Grinning Gecko, owned by Catherine Joanie and Richard Williams started in Cheesemaking is not about following
and James McNamara, is a small 2011 with the aim of creating unique a recipe but about following your
artisan producer. They source organic quality cheeses using beautiful fresh, instincts and your curiosity. So rather
AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND
milk from two local farms: one milking organic milk that can be traced back to than making mozzarella, Annie decided
Ayrshire cows and the other Jersey the farm and the animals. It is their to create something different. After
cows, to create a range of unique, shared fascination with cheese that has searching the length of New Zealand
handcrafted cheeses. made this modern New Zealand classic. for charcoal, she made her first batch
of St. Benedict and hasn’t stopped since.
TASTING NOTES Dense,supple, elastic- TASTING NOTES Washed in brine, it is
textured, and deep yellow, it has the named for the pale pink, ridged rind TASTING NOTES A fine black layer of
aroma and taste of fermenting pears dusted with white and patches of blue charcoal can be seen beneath the thin
with hints of sweetness and meadow mold. Creamy, salty with hints of blue white rind, revealing a white interior
flowers characteristic of Ayrshire milk. cheese, Marmite, umami and peanuts– that tastes of vanilla and mushrooms
spectacular as the original terraces. with the earthy freshness of the milk.
HOW TO ENJOY Serve with preserved fruit
or chutney or grill over your favorite HOW TO ENJOY With dry Riesling or HOW TO ENJOY Enjoy lightly grilled on
roast vegetables. Its strong flavor Viognier from Blackbarn Winery or any sourdough, or at a picnic by the river
means you won’t need too much. other dry aromatic Hawkes Bay white. with a glass of rosé.
NEW ZEALAND Whangerei, Northland NEW ZEALAND Havelock North, NEW ZEALAND Whangaripo Valley, Matakana
Age 5–6 months Hawkes Bay Age 2–4 weeks
Weight and Shape 11lb (5kg), wheel Age 4–6 weeks Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), log
Size D. 11in (27cm), H. 31⁄2in (9cm) Weight and Shape 7oz (200g), square Size L. 5in (12cm), H. 2in (5cm)
342 Milk Cow Size L. 20in (50cm), W. 20in (50cm), Milk Buffalo
H. 10in (25cm)
Classification Semi-soft Classification Soft white
Milk Cow
Producer Grinning Gecko Cheese Producer Whangaripo Buffalo Cheese
Classification Semi-soft
Producer Organic Earth Cheese
Waimata Camembert Whitestone Zany Zeus Halloumi
Established in 1995, Rick and Carol Windsor Blue Mike Matsis’s passion for cheese started
Thorpe’s Waimata Cheese Company is Set up in the mid-1980s by Bob Berry, when his Cyprus-born mother taught
one of the largest independent Whitestone is another early pioneer of him to make halloumi. Fascinated by
cheesemakers in New Zealand, producing the country’s cheese renaissance in the the process, he decided to become a
more than 300 tons of cheese a year. 1990s. They make a wide range of cheesemaker, and now makes a range of
Their huge range includes numerous cheese but Windsor Blue is still their authentic Mediterranean dairy products
blues, soft whites, double cream flagship blue. including yogurt, feta, smoked cheeses—
cheeses, feta, and halloumi. all available in their Lower Hutt cafe.
NEW ZEALAND
TASTING NOTES The added cream gives it a
TASTING NOTES When young, it is mild taste like blue butter. Fruity and sharp TASTING NOTES When cooked, halloumi
and milky, but once ripe, it develops when young, it becomes sweet, slightly tastes deliciously salty, feels slightly
into a light runny vanilla cream style salty, and spicy with age. squeaky like a dense mozzarella, and
soft white cheese. Others can be nurtured the milk sugars or lactose taste sweet,
to become more savory, almost meaty. HOW TO ENJOY Spread on crackers or a like caramelized onion, as they cook.
baguette, toss into hot pasta, or serve
HOW TO ENJOY Serve in a warm freshly with pears and gingerbread for dessert. HOW TO ENJOY Fry or barbecue on skewers;
baked croissant with apple chutney and Match with a slightly sweet, spritzy it will be crisp outside and melt inside.
a sparkling wine or crisp Chardonnay.. white wine. Serve with fruity whites or red wines.
NEW ZEALAND Gisborne, East Cape NEW ZEALAND Oamaru, Otago NEW ZEALAND Petone, Wellington
Age 4–7 weeks Age 3–8 months Age From a few days
Weight and Shape 13⁄4lb (800g), round Weight and Shape 81⁄2lb (3.8kg), round Weight and Shape 9oz (250g), block
Size D. 71⁄2in (19cm), H. 1in (2.5cm) Size D. 8in (21cm), H. 5in (12cm) Size L. 21⁄2in (6cm), W. 11⁄2in (4cm),
Milk Cow Milk Cow H. 11⁄2in (4 cm) 343
Classification Soft white Classification Blue Milk Cow
Producer Waimata Cheese Company Producer Whitestone Cheese Classification Fresh
Producer Zany Zeus
Glossary
always been made with skim or low-fat milk, MOLD-RIPENED
however, have been developed to bring out the best The process by which molds on the rind of cheeses,
in the milk and consumers can rarely tell they are typically white, gray-blue, and orange, speed up
lower in fat. the breakdown of the curd.
ANNATTO
Orange-red dye, obtained from the natural
FERMENTATION ORGANIC
pigments in the seeds of the annatto tree
During ripening, the fat, protein, and Cheeses produced on farms approved by an
(Bixa orellana).
carbohydrates in the cheese are broken down by official government program that adheres to the
biochemical changes with the help of temperature, principles of organic production, such as no
BACTERIA LINENS
humidity, bacteria, and enzymes, which affect the pesticides or chemicals on the land, in the dairy,
Formally known as Bacillus linens, this bacteria
texture, flavor, and aroma of the ripe cheese. or for the animals.
is used to create the sticky orange rind on
washed-rind cheeses.
FULL FAT PASTA FILATA
Indicates that the milk has not been skimmed Also known as Stretched Curd, a technique
BRINE
before being turned into cheese. Most cheeses are whereby curd is immersed in hot acidic whey to
A strong salt solution used to seal the outside
made from full-fat milk. It should be noted, make it elastic, then kneaded or stretched in hot
of some cheeses and prevent unwanted mold
however, that the fat content of milk is only water. Examples include mozzarella and provolone.
from growing.
3.8 percent for cow’s milk to 16 percent for
reindeer’s milk, and the fat content of cheese PASTEURIZATION
BUTTERMILK
ranges from 20–34 percent, significantly lower The heat treatment of raw milk for at least one
The slightly sour liquid left after butter has
than most people realize. minute at 163°F (73°C) to destroy any potential
been churned.
harmful microorganisms. Unfortunately, it also
GLOBULES destroys many flavor-enriching microorganisms.
CAROTENE
Form in which fat is present in milk. Fat globules
The yellow to red natural colorant that comes
vary in size depending on the breed of animal. PASTE
from grasses and is converted through the liver
Used in European cheeses to describe the interior
into vitamin A.
HOOP of a cheese. Also known as Pâte.
The container into which fresh curd is packed after
CASEIN
salting, it typically has a perforated base and sides, PENICILLIUM CANDIDUM
Milk’s chief and particular protein, precipitated in
and an open top. (See also Mold.) A white mold with a mushroom aroma and taste
cheesemaking by acid development and by rennin
that grows on soft white cheeses such as
enzyme, becoming curd.
LACTATION Camembert and Brie.
GLOSSARY
THERMIZED CHEESES Burnt Caramel A sweet flavor with just a hint of Squeaky When curd is washed it becomes very
Cheeses whose curd has been heated to 130°F overcooked caramelized sugar, or roasted onions. smooth and feels shiny and “squeaky” clean.
(54°C) in the whey—lower than pasteurization. Typically associated with hard ewe’s-milk cheeses.
Supple More dense than “rubbery,” as it has an
TURNING Dry A feeling of lack of moisture in the mouth. underlying structure.
The process of regularly turning a whole cheese
while maturing, to ensure that the moisture in Earthy An aroma of freshly tilled soil. Tangy A tart or acidic flavor that causes the
a cheese is evenly distributed and the mold mouth to pucker and tingle. Often associated with
GLOSSARY
grows evenly. Farmyard A term used to describe manure or mature hard cheeses such as cheddar.
animals. It is used to describe the rind or a wine,
VAT and literally means they smell a bit stinky. Umami This describes the yeasty, meaty
A container in which the milk is contained for However, it is usually a good thing, not bad. savory notes of many washed-rind and
cheesemaking. Gruyère-type cheeses.
Elastic A firm but flexible texture that returns to
VEGETARIAN CHEESE its original shape after gentle pressure, often with Unctuous Fatty and greasy to English speakers
Cheeses in which a non-animal alternative to a tearable layered texture. but creamy, rich, and luxurious when used by
rennet is used to curdle the milk, in place of the some Europeans.
more traditional animal rennet. The difference in Finish The aftertaste, or sensation left on the
taste in most cheeses is barely distinguishable. palate after the last mouthful. Velvety Thick but soft, smooth, and without
structure, such as processed cheese.
VEINING Friable The tendency of a cheese to crumble into
Also known as marbling, this refers to the streaks small grainy fragments.
or lines of blue mold found in the body of all blue
cheeses. The Italians use the word erborinatura Fruity A flavor reminiscent of both the odor 345
and the French use the term persille (both mean and taste of fresh fruit picked at its optimum
“parsley”) to describe the scattered veining in their stage of ripeness, such as pears, apples, melons,
traditional cheeses. and mangoes.
INDEX
Coupole 280 Jarlsberg 247 Halloumi 11, 262–63
Crabotin 98 Klasiskais 252 Galotiri DOC 257 Zany Zeus Halloumi 343
Crayeux de Roncq 52 Maasdam 229 Gammelost 247 Handkäse 233, 235
Creamery Subblime 307 Samsø 246 Gamonedo DOP 151 hard cheeses 8, 18–19, 25
Crémet du Cap Blanc-Nez 98 English cheeses 169, 170–206 Gaperon 60 Harvest Moon 314
Crémeux du Puy 53 Epoisses & Epoisses-style Garrotxa 154 Harzer Käse 234
Crescent Dairy Farmhouse 337 Abbaye de la Pierre-qui-Vire 31 Geitenkaas Met Kruiden 228 Havarti & Havarti-style 17, 246
Crescenza & Crescenza-style 114 Epoisses de Bourgogne AOC 64–65 German cheeses 232, 233–35 Oltermanni 251
Bellwether Farms Crescenza 274 Langres AOC 62 Géromé (Munster AOC) 68 Turunmaa 251
Crottin 215, 223 Palet de Bourgogne 69 Gippsland Blue 328 Healey’s Pyengana 329
Bouquetin de Portneuf 311 Soumaintrain 88 Gjetost 247 Heidi Farm Gruyère 330
Crottin de Chavignol AOC 13, 53, Erzincan 261 Glebe Brethan 220 Heidi Farm Raclette 330
92 Esrom PGI 246 Gloucester herbed cheeses 23
Pine Stump Crottin 308 Evansdale Farmhouse Brie 338 Double Gloucester 177 Boulette d’Avesnes 40
Crowdie 207, 210 Everona Piedmont 282 Holy Smoked 183 Boulette de Cambrai 40
Crozier Blue 220 Évora DOP 166 Single Gloucester PDO 183, 197 Boulette de Papleux 98
Le Cru des Erables 313 Ewe’s Blue 282 see also Snodsbury Goat Brossauthym 43
Crutin 115 Exmoor Blue PGI 180 Goatzarella 283 Dauphin 54
347
curds Golden Cenarth 213 Fleur du Maquis 58
Cheddar Curds 312 Golden Cross 182 Geitenkaas Met Kruiden 228
Meadowcroft Farm Goat’s Curd
340
F Golden Glen Creamery Mozzarella
307
Grace 221
Keiems Bloempje 226
Schichtkäse 235 Fermentation process 7 Gorgonzola & Gorgonzola-style Mossfield Organic 223
Curé Nantais 53 Ferns Edge Goat Dairy 307 Bavaria Blu 234 Piacere 315
Curio Bay Pecorino 337 Feta & Feta-style 11, 255 Cornish Blue 175 Pont Gar 214
Curworthy 176 Beyaz Peynir 261 Gippsland Blue 328 Potaje 325
Cypriot cheeses 261–63 Big Island Feta 275 Gorgonzola PDO 20, 21, 108–09 Rosemary’s Waltz 296
Bryndza PGI 260 West West Blue 305 Sage Derby 194
Feta PDO 258–59 Gouda & Gouda-style 19, 22, 224, Sussex Slipcote Garlic & Herb 199
D Manouri 257
Weisslacker 235
230–31
Coolea 219
Tétoun de Santa Agata 89
Tilsiterkäse 235
Danablu 245 Yarra Valley Dairy Persian Fetta Frisian Farms Mature Gouda 283 Valle D’Aosta Fromadzo PDO 143
Danbo 245 334 Geitenkaas Met Kruiden 228 Wedmore 203
Danish Blue (Danablu) 245 Yerba Santa Dairy Fresca 309 Ilha Graciosa 166 Windrush 205
Danish cheeses 244, 245–46 Feuille de Dreux 55 Karikaas Vintage Leyden 339 Hereford Hop 182
Danish Port Salut see Esrom PGI Figuette 58 Leidse Kaas AOC 229 Herreño 154
Dauphin 54 Finlandia Cheese (Oltermanni) 251 Meyer Vintage Gouda 340 Herrgårdsost 249
Daylesford Cheddar 176 Finn 180 Mossfield Organic 223 Herve PDO 225
Deauville 54 Finnish cheeses 244, 251 Nagelkaas 23, 229 Herve Remoudou 225
Le Délice des Appalaches 313 Fiore Sardo PDO 115 Northumberland 187 history of cheese and cheesemaking 6
Fium’Orbu 58 Oakdale Gouda 292 Hobelkäse 238
Hocpustertaler (Pusteria) 142 Latvian cheeses 244, 252–53 Mont d’Or & Mont d’Or-style Old Winchester 188
Hohepa Danbo 338 Laverstoke Ciliegine 185 Cabri Ariégeois 44 Olivet 69
Hoja Santa 285 Lavistown 222 Mont d’Or AOC 67 Olivet Cendré 69
Holy Goat La Luna 330 Lavort 62 Pechegos 71 Olivet au Foin 69
Holy Goat Pandora 331 Le Cabanon 312 Mont Ventoux 99 Olivet Poivre 69
Holy Smoked 183 Le Cendré des Prés 312 Montasio Olmützer Quargel 234
Hooligan 288 Le Cru des Erables 313 Montasio PDO 121 Oltermanni 251
Hopelessly Blue 308 Le Délice des Appalaches 313 Montasio (Samish Bay Cheese) Oregon Blue 299
Hubbardston Blue 288 Le Paillasson de l’isle d’Orléans 315 308 organic cheeses
Huckleberry Blue 288 Le Petit Chèvre Bleu 290 Monte Enebro 156 Alpine 270
Humboldt Fog 289 Le Sabot de Blanchette 316 Monte Veronese PDO 122 Aroha with Fenugreek 335
Hushållsost 249 Lebanese cheeses 264 Monterey Jack 286–87 Bath Soft Cheese 170
Leidse Kaas AOC 229 Dry Jack 18, 286 Bio, or Pas de Bleu 225
see also Nökkelost Mezzo Secco 286, 290 Bio Paulus 236
I Lewis (Bruny Island Lewis) 328
Liébana DOP 155
Young Jack 286
Los Montes de Toledo 156
Bleu Mont Cheddar 277
Blue Heaven 172
Ibérico 154 Limburger 234 Morbier AOC 67 Burrata 336
Ibores DOP 155 Lincolnshire Poacher 185 see also La Barre du Jour Coppermine 336
Idiazábal DOP 23, 155 Lingot de la Ginestarie 62 Mori No Cheese 323 Creamery Subblime 307
Ilha Graciosa 166 Lithuanian cheeses 244, 253 Morlacco 122 Daylesford Cheddar 176
Inbar 264 Little Ann 185 Morn Dew 190 Ferns Edge Goat Dairy 307
Innes Button 25, 183 Little Ryding 186 Morvan 68 Goatzarella 283
Irish cheeses 168, 215–23 Livarot & Livarot-style Mossfield Organic 223 Grace 221
Ironstone Extra 331 Deauville 54 Mothais-sur-Feuille 68 Gunnamatta Gold 329
Isle of Mull Cheddar 208 Livarot AOC 63 MouCo ColoRouge 291 Hafod 213
Isle of Wight Blue 183 livestock and grazing habits 7 mold-ripened cheeses see soft white Holy Goat La Luna 330
Israeli cheeses 255, 264–65 Lord London 186 cheeses Holy Goat Pandora 331
Italian cheeses 100–43 Lord of the Hundreds 186 Mt Eliza Red Leicester 341 Huckleberry Blue 288
Los Montes de Toledo 156 Mt Tam 276, 292 Keiems Bloempje 226
Losange de Saint-Paul 98 Mt Tamahunga 341 Laverstoke Ciliegine 185
J Lou Rocaillou 63
Lou Sotch 63
mountain cheeses 6
Mountain Top Bleu 292
Little Ryding 186
Mossfield Organic 223
Jack (Monterey Jack) 286–87 Lubelski 255 Mozzarella & Mozzarella-style 11 Mt Tam 276, 292
Jacks’ Cheese 286 Lucullus 66 Buffalo Mozzarella 335 Parihaka 342
Janu Siers 244, 252 Burrata 106, 336 Pas de Rouge 226
Japanese cheeses 321, 323–25 Goatzarella 283 Pavé de la Ginestarie 70
Jarlsberg 247
Jensen’s Red Washed Rind 331 M Golden Glen Creamery Mozzarella
307
Pink & White Terraces 342
Raclette de Compton au Poivre
Jersey Shield 188 Maasdam 229 Laverstoke Ciliegine 185 316
Juustoleipä 244, 251 Mercer Maasdam 340 Lubelski 255 St Tola Log 13, 223
Mâconnais AOC 66 Mozzarella di Bufala PDO 118–19 Sussex Slipcote 199
Bouton-de-Culotte 40 Mozzarella Passita (Scamorza) 135 Trader Lake Cedar 303
K
INDEX
Mahoe Vintage Edam 339 Shaw River Buffalo Mozzarella Vaquero Blue 304
Mahón DO 152–53 333 Original Blue (Point Reyes Original
Kachokabaro 323 Mainzer 234 Munster AOC 68, 99 Blue) 295
Kallarney Blue 338 Maiochino (Piacentinu Ennese PDO) Murazzano PDO 122 Original Goat (Ribblesdale Original
Karikaas Vintage Leyden 339 127 Murcia al Vino DOP 157 Goat) 194
Kaseri DOC 256 Majorero DOP 156 Mutschli 239 Orkney 209
Kearney Blue 184 Manchego & Manchego-style Pleasant Valley Dairy Mutschli Ossau-Iraty & Ossau-Iraty-style
Kebbuck 208 Grand Queso 284 308 Ossau au Piment d’Espelette 69
Kefalotyri DOC 257 Manchego DOP 18, 19, 160–61 Myzithra 257 Ossau-Iraty AOC 69
Keiems Bloempje 226 Manouri 257 Tomme de Brebis Corse 90
Keltic Gold 184 Maroilles & Maroilles-style Ossolano 123
Kernhem 228
Ketem 13, 264
Baguette Laonnaise 33
Boulette d’Avesnes 40 N Oštiepok PGI 260
Oszczypek 260
Killeen Goat 221 Boulette de Papleux 98 Nagelkaas 23, 229
King Christian (Danbo) 245 Dauphin 54 Neudorf Richmond Red 341
Kinzell Creek 339
Klasiskais 252
Fort de Béthune 99
Maroilles AOC 66
Neufchâtel 49
New Forest Blue 187 P
Knockdrinna Gold 222 Rollot 80 New Zealand cheeses 327, 335–43 Pablo Cabrito 189
348 Krievijas 252 Vieux-Lilles 97 Nîmois 99 Paglierina 123
Kunik 289 Marzolino 121 Nisa DOP 166 Paglietta (Paglierina) 123
Mascare 99 Nökkelost 248 Le Paillasson de l’isle d’Orléans 315
Mascarpone 11, 121 Norsworthy 187 Palet de Bourgogne 69
L Mayfield 186
Maytag Blue 290
North American cheeses 266–318
Northumberland 187
Palmero DOP 157
Pannarello 123
La Aulaga Camerano (Camerano Meadowcroft Farm Goat’s Curd 340 Norwegian cheeses 244, 247–48 Pannerone Lodigiano 125
DOP) 149 Mercer Maasdam 340 Notre-Dame de Belloc (Abbaye Pant-Ys-Gawn 213
La Barre du Jour 311 Meredith Blue 332 Notre-Dame de Belloc) 30 Parihaka 342
La Peral 159 Mesost 250 nut cheeses 23 Parmigiano-Reggiano (Parmesan) &
la Pierre-qui-Vire (Abbaye de la Mexican cheeses 269, 318 Taramundi 22, 162 Parmigiano-Reggiano-style 6, 18, 19
Pierre-qui-Vire ) 31 Meyer Vintage Gouda 340 American Grana 270
La Sauvagine 317 Mezzo Secco 286, 290 Dry Jack 286
Labane 265
Laguiole AOC 61
Midcoast Teleme 308
Milk Cake 322
O Dziugas 253
Mahón DO 152–53
Lagundo 141 Milleens 222 OOakdale Gouda 292 Parmigiano-Reggiano PDO 18, 19,
L’Alt Urgell y La Cerdanya DOP 146 Mimolette 19, 67 Ocooch Mountain 293 128–29
Lanark Blue 209 Mona 291 Ogleshield 188 Sbrinz AOC 239
Lancashire 184 monastery-style cheeses see OKA Clasique 314 Pas de Bleu 225
Langres AOC 17, 62, 86 Trappist-style cheeses Old Grizzly 315 Pas de Rouge 226
Larzac 289 Monet 291 Old Kentucky Tome 293 Pasiego de las Garmillas 157
Latteria 127 Mont des Cats (Abbaye du Mont des Old Sarum 188 Passendale 226
Latteria Turnaria 120 Cats) 30 Old Smales (Old Winchester) 188
pasta filata cheeses 262 Portuguese cheeses 145, 165–67 Ricotta di Bufala Campana PDO Saval 214
Burrata 106 Postel 227 142 Sbrinz AOC 239
Kaseri DOC 256 Pot Corse 78 Ricotta Romano PDO 134 Scamorza 135
Ragusano PDO 133 Potaje 325 Ridder 248 Scamorza Affumicata 135
Scamorza 135 Pouligny-Saint-Pierre AOC 78, 92 Rigotte de Condrieu AOC 79 Scandinavian cheeses 244–53
Stracciata 143 Pozo Tomme 309 rind-flavored cheeses 22, 23 Schabziger 242
Vastedda della Valle del Belice Prästost 250 Roaring Forties 332 Schichtkäse 235
PDO 143 Prestige 316 Robiola Scottish cheeses 168, 206–11
see also Caciocavallo; Mozzarella; Pride of Bacchus 282 Murazzano PDO 122 Seastack 298
Provolone Primo Sale 124, 130 Robiola (Japan) 324 Selles-sur-Cher AOC 76, 87, 92
Pata de Mulo 158 Provolone & Provolone-style Robiola d’Alba 134 semi-soft cheeses 8, 16–17, 25
Monte Enebro 156 Kaseri DOC 256 Robiola di Roccaverano PDO 134 Serendipity 325
Pavé d’Auge 70 Provolone PDO 130 Rocaillou (Lou Rocaillou) 63 Serpa DOP 167
Pavé Blésois 70 Provolone (Japan) 324 Rocamadour AOC 79 Serra da Estrela DOP 167
Pavé de la Ginestarie 70 Provolone del Monaco PDO 130 Rogue River Blue 294, 296 Seven-Year-Old Orange Cheddar 317
Pavé de Moyaux 70 Provolone Valpadana PDO 131 Rollot 80 Sharpham Rustic 196
Pavé de Roubaix (Pavé du Nord) 71 Provolone Valpadana Dolce 131 Romanian cheeses 260 Shaw River Buffalo Mozzarella 333
Pavé du Nord 71 Provolone Valpadana Piccante 131 Roncal DOP 159 Shelburne Cheddar 298
Pavé du Plessis 70 Puant de Lille (Vieux-Lille) 97 Roquefort & Roquefort-style Shepherd’s Gem 307
Pavin 71 Pusteria 142 Alpine Lakes Creamery Bleu 306 Shipcord 196
Payoyo 158 Pustertaler (Pusteria) 142 Bleu Age 307 Shropshire Blue 197
PDO (Protected Designation of Puzzone di Moena PDO 131 Bleu d’Auvergne AOC 35 Sierra Nevada Cream Cheese 299
Origin) 8 Pyengana (Healey’s Pyengana) 329 Bleu des Causses AOC 36 Sieur de Duplessis 317
Pechegos 71 Crozier Blue 220 Signal 88
Pecorino 18 Ewe’s Blue 282 Silter 142
Curio Bay Pecorino 337
Lord of the Hundreds 186
Q Lanark Blue 209
Maytag Blue 290
Single Gloucester PDO 183, 197
Slovakian cheeses 260
Pecorino Crotonese 125 Quark Roquefort AOC 20, 21, 82–83 Slow Food movement 120, 125, 141,
Pecorino di Filiano PDO 142 Surfing Goat Dairy Quark 300 Turkeez 265 275, 309
Pecorino di Laticauda 142 see also Schichtkäse Rosa Camuna 132 smear-ripened cheeses 17
Pecorino di Pienza 125 Quartirolo Lombardo PDO 131 Rosa Rugosa 307 Smelly Ha’peth 197
Pecorino Romano PDO 126 see also Salva Cremasco Rosary Plain 194 smoked cheeses 22, 23
Pecorino Sardo PDO 126 Queijo Minas 319 Rosemary’s Waltz 296 Ahumado de Pría 146
Pecorino Sardo Dolce 126 Queso Anejo 318 Rouelle du Tarn 80 Ardrahan 215
Pecorino Sardo Maturo 126 Queso Blanco 318 Rove Cendré 80 Ardsallagh 215
Pecorino Siciliano PDO 9, 126 Queso Blanco Pais 286 Rove des Garrigues 81 Billy’s Smokey Goat 172
Pecorino Toscano PDO 127 Queso de Cabra Rufino (Cabra Royal Wotton Blue 204 Fiore Sardo PDO 115
Sardo 319 Rufino) 149 Ru-bing 322 Frisian Farms Mature Gouda 283
Pedrazzi’s Jack Cheese 286 Queso Fresco 318 Rubens 227 Gamonedo DOP 151
Pélardon & Pélardon-style Queso de Mano 295 Russian Cheese 252 Gaperon 60
Ketem 13, 264 Queso Nata de Cantabria (Cantabria Rustic (Sharpham Rustic) 196 Herreño 154
Pélardon AOC 72 DOP) 150 Holy Smoked 183
INDEX
Pélardon d’Altier 72 Queso del Pais 286 Idiazábal DOP 23, 155
Pélardon d’Anduze 72
Pélardon des Cévennes 72
Quickes Hard Goat 190
S Liébana DOP 155
Oštiepok PGI 260
Peña Blanca de Corrales 158 Sablé de Wissant 81 Palmero DOP 157
Pendragon 189
Pérail 72
R Le Sabot de Blanchette 316
Sage Derby 194
Pendragon 189
Pont Gar 214
La Peral 159 RR&R Cheddar 297 St Benedict the Black 342 Raclette fumée 78
Perl Las 214 Rachel 190 Saint-Christophe 81 Ricotta Affumicata 112, 133
Perroche 189 Raclette & Raclette-style 239 Saint-Domnin 84 San Simón da Costa DOP 162
Persian Fetta, Yarra Valley Dairy 334 La Barre du Jour 311 St Eadburgha 195 Scamorza Affumicata 135
Persillé de Tignes 50, 72 Heidi Farm Raclette 330 St Endellion 195 Smokey Blue Cheese 299, 302
Persillé des Aravis 99 Raclette de Compton au Poivre Saint-Félicien 84 Up in Smoke 308
Persillé des Grand-Bornand 99 316 Saint-Florentin 84 Smokey Blue Cheese 299, 302
Persillé des Thônes 99 Raclette fumée 78 St Gall 223 Sniega bumbas 253
Le Petit Chèvre Bleu 290 Raclette la moutarde 78 St George 297 Snodsbury Goat 198
Petit Fiancé des Pyrénées 73 Raclette de Savoie 78 St Jorge 297 Soera (Sola) 135
Petit Nuage 325 Raclette au vin blanc 78 Saint-Marcellin 85 Soft Wheel 299
Piacentinu Ennese PDO 127 Racotin 79 see also Saint-Félicien soft white cheeses 8, 14–15, 25
Ragstone 190
349
Piacere 315 Sainte-Maure & Sainte-Maure-style Sola 135, 138
Piave PDO 127 Ragusano PDO 133 Golden Cross 182 Sora (Sola) 135, 138
Picodon AOC 73 Raschera PDO 133 Saint-Christophe 81 Sotch (Lou Sotch) 63
Picón Bejes Tresviso DOP 159 Ravens Oak Wood 191 Saint-Maure de Touraine AOC 13, Soumaintrain 88
Picos de Europa (Valdeón DO) 164 re-formed cheeses 22, 23 24, 92–93 South American cheeses 269, 319
Pierre-qui-Vire (Abbaye de la Reblochon & Reblochon-style Saint-Nectaire & Saint-Nectaire-style Spanish cheeses 145, 146–64
Pierre-qui-Vire) 31 Abbaye de Tamié 31 Pavin 71 spiced cheeses 23
Pierre-Robert 73 Chevrotin des Aravis AOC 49 Saint-Nectaire AOC 85 Afuega’l Pitu DOP 146
Pine Stump Crottin 308 Chevrotin des Bauges AOC 51 Saint-Nicolas-de-la-Dalmerie 85 Altenburger Ziegenkäse PDO 233
Pink & White Terraces 342 Crémeux du Puy 53 St Oswald 195 Aroha with Fenugreek 335
Pithiviers 77 Reblochon de Savoie AOC 74–75 St Swithin’s with Lavender 196 La Barre du Jour 311
Pleasant Ridge Reserve 293 Red Hawk 296 St Tola Log 13, 223 Boulette de Papleux 98
Pleasant Valley Dairy Mutschli 308 Red Leicester 191 Sakura 324 Dauphin 54
Point Reyes Original Blue 295 Mt Eliza Red Leicester 341 Salva Cremasco PDO 135 Havarti 246
Pondhopper 295 reindeer-milk cheese 6, 245 Samsø 245, 246 Inbar 264
Pont Gar 214 Juustoleipä 251, 255 San Joaquin Gold 298 Janu Siers 244, 252
Pont l’Evêque & Pont l’Evêque-style Remembered Hills 191 San Simón da Costa DOP 162 Karikaas Vintage Leyden 339
Deauville 54 Requeijão Cremoso 319 Sancerrois 87 Klasiskais 252
Pavé d’Auge 70 Ribblesdale Original Goat 194 São Jorge DOP 167 Leidse Kaas AOC 229
Pont-l’Evêque AOC 77 Richard Thomas Fromage Blanc 332 Sapsago (Schabziger) 242 Nagelkaas 23, 229
Port Salut & Port Salut-style 77 Ricotta & Ricotta-style 11 Sardo 319 Nökkelost 248
Esrom PGI 246 Cacioricotta 141 Sarments d’Amour 87 Oakdale Gouda 292
Oka Classique 314 Ricotta Affumicata 112, 133 La Sauvagine 317 Piacentinu Ennese PDO 127
Schabziger 242
Tilsiterkäse 235
Tomme de Beijing 322
Tomme de Brebis Corse 90
Beenoskee 218
Bettelmatt 103 W
Young Jack 286 Tomme Caprine des Pyrénées 90 Big Woods Blue 275 Wabash Cannonball 305
Spressa delle Giudicarie PDO 139 Tomme de Chartreux 91 Bio, or Pas de Bleu 225 Waimata Camembert 343
Squacquarone di Romagna PDO 143 Tomme de Chèvre 242 Cabot Clothbound 278 washed-curd cheeses 17, 19
starter cultures 7 Tomme de Chèvre des Charentes Camembert de Normandie AOC 6, Healey’s Pyengana 329
Steamboat Island Goat Farm Gouda 91 14, 15, 25, 44, 46 Murcia al Vino DOP 157
309 Tomme Fleurette 242 Camembleu 323 Norsworthy 187
Stelvio PDO 143 Tomme de Savoie 89, 91 Cayuse Mountain Goat 307 see also Edam; Gouda
Stichelton 198 Tomme Vaudoise 242 Constant Bliss 280 washed-rind cheeses 16, 17
Stilfser (Stelvio PDO) 143 Tumalo Tomme 303 Cote Hill Blue 175 Washington Washrind 334
Stilton & Stilton-style Tommette Creamery Subblime 307 Waterloo 203
Shropshire Blue 197 Ashed Tomette 272 Dôme de Vézelay 54 Wedmore 203
Stichelton 198 Tommette Brebis des Alpes 94 Dorset Blue Vinny 177 Weinkäse 237
Stilton PDO 20, 21, 192–93 Tommette de Chèvre des Bauges Durrus 220 Weisslacker 235
White Stilton PDO 204 94 Exmoor Blue PGI 180 Welsh cheeses 169, 212–15, 216–17
Stinking Bishop 17, 198 Torta 5 Spoke Creamery Browning Gold Wensleydale
Stony Man 282 Cabra Rufino 149 306 Wensleydale PGI 204
Stormy 333 Cañarejal 149 Great Hill Blue 284 Wensleydale with Cranberries 22
Stracchino di Gorgonzola (Gorgonzola Los Montes de Toledo 156 Huckleberry Blue 288 West West Blue 305
PDO) 20, 21, 108–09 Torta de Barros 163 Innes Button 25, 183 whey cheeses 11
Stracciata 143 Torta del Casar 163 Keiems Bloempje 226 Anthotyros DOC 256
Strachìtunt PDO 139 Torta La Serena 149, 163 Little Ann 185 Brocciu AOC 43
Strathdon Blue 209 Tortas Extremeñas 163 Norsworthy 187 Manouri 257
Strzelecki Blue 333 Tou del Til.lers 163 Pechegos 71 Mesost 250
Suffolk Gold 199 Trader Lake Cedar 303 Petit Fiancé des Pyrénées 73 Myzithra 257
Surfing Goat Dairy Quark 300 Trappe de Beval 98 Pleasant Valley Dairy Mutschli Petit Nuage 325
Sussex Blue 186 Trappe d’Echourgnac 94 308 see also Ricotta
Sussex Slipcote 199 Trappist-style cheeses 6, 16 Prestige 316 White Stilton PDO 204
Swaledale Goat 199 Abbaye de Cîteaux 30 Queso de Mano 295 Whitestone Windsor Blue 343
Swedish cheeses 244, 248–50 Abbaye de Troisvaux 98 Raclette de Compton au Poivre 316 Widmers Cellar Brick Cheese 309
Swiss cheeses 232, 238–43 Abbaye du Mont des Cats 30 Reblochon de Savoie AOC 74–75 Wild Garlic Yarg 200
Abbaye Notre-Dame de Belloc 30 Rogue River Blue 296 Wiltshire Loaf 204
Abbaye de la Pierre-qui-Vire 31 Rosa Rugosa 307 Windrush 205
T Abbaye de Tamié 31
Bio Paulus 236
St Gall 223
St George 297
wine with cheeses 25
see also specific cheeses
Taleggio & Taleggio-style Chimay à la Bière 225 Saint-Nicolas-de-la-Dalmerie 85 Winnimere 306
Dorset 281 Chorherrenkäse 236 Shelburne Cheddar 298 Winterdale Shaw 205
Taleggio PDO 17, 24, 136–37 Losange de Saint-Paul 98 Shepherd’s Gem 307 Woodside Edith 334
Tamié (Abbaye de Tamié) 31 OKA Clasique 314 Sieur de Duplessis 317 Woolsery Goat 205
Taramundi 22, 162 Pas de Rouge 226 Telford Reserve 301 Wyfe of Bath 206
Tarentais 88 Trappe de Beval 98 Tomme Fleurette 242
INDEX
Tarentaise (Spring Brook Farm) 300 Trappe d’Echourgnac 94 Tumalo Tomme 303
Tarentaise (Thistle Hill Farm) 300
Taupinette Charentaise 89
Vieux Chimay 227
Trentingrana PDO 140
Tumbleweed 304
Vache de Vashon 309 Y
Taupinière 301 Triklantlers Reserve 253 West West Blue 305 Yayak milk 6
Teifi Farmhouse 215 Triple Cream Wheel 303 Up in Smoke 308 Yama No Cheese 325
Telford Reserve 301 Trois Cornes de Vendée 95 Yarg Cornish Cheese 22, 24, 200–01
terroir 8 Troisvaux (Abbaye de Troisvaux) 98 Yarra Valley Dairy Persian Fetta 334
Tête de Moine AOC 242
Tetilla DO 162
Tronchón 163
Trouville 70
V Yerba Santa Dairy Fresca 309
yogurt-based cheeses: Labane 265
Tétoun de Santa Agata 89 Truffe de Valensole 95 Vache de Vashon 309 Young Jack 286
thermized cheeses 19 truffle cheeses Vacherin & Vacherin-style
thistle rennet cheeses Caciotta al Tartufo 110 Golden Cenarth 213
Cañarejal 149
Castelo Branco DOP 165
Crutin 115
Truffe de Valensole 95
Vacherin Fribourgeois AOC 243
Vacherin Mont d’Or AOC 17, 243 Z
Évora DOP 166 Tulum 261 Valdeón DO 25, 164 Zamorano DO 164
Flor de Guîa 151 Tumalo Tomme 303 Valençay & Valençay-style 13, 92 Zany Zeus Halloumi 343
Nisa DOP 166 Tumbleweed 304 Cerney Pyramid 174 Zfatit 265
Serpa DOP 167 Tunworth 202 Valle D’Aosta Fromadzo PDO 143
350
Serra da Estrela DOP 167 Tupí 164 Valle Maggia 243
Tortas Extremeñas 163 Turkeez 265 Valtellina Casera PDO 143
Thomasville Tomme 301 Turkish cheeses 261 Vaquero Blue 304
Ticklemore Goat 202 Turunmaa 251 Vastedda della Valle del Belice PDO
Tilsit 235, 252 Twig Farm Square Cheese 304 143
Tilsiterkäse 235 Two Faced Blue Peccato 309 Västerbottenost 250
tipicità 8 Tymsboro 202 vegetarian rennet cheeses
Tiroler Graukäse PDO 237 Exmoor Plue PGI 180
Toma 140 Goatzarella 283
Toma Piemontese PDO 139
Tome 140 U see also thistle rennet cheeses
Venaco 96
Tomino di Melle 140 U Bel Fiuritu 95 Ventadour 97
Tomme 139 U Pecurinu 96 Vermont Shepherd 305
Appalachian 271 Umbriaco 103 Vezzena 140
Elk Mountain 282 United States cheeses 270–309 Vieux Chimay 227
Old Kentucky Tome 293 unpasteurized cheeses Vieux-Boulogne 97
Pozo Tomme 309 Ancient Heritage Scio 306 Vieux-Lille 97
Shipcord 196 Anster 206 Vorarlberger Bergkäse PDO 237
Thomasville Tomme 301 Ascutney Mountain Cheese 272 Vulscombe 203
Tomme à l’Ancienne 90 Awe Brie 272
Tomme de Bargkas 99 Bagòss 102
Tomme des Bauges AOC 89 Battenkill Brebis 273
Contributors
FRANCE: As a native of Southern France, BELGIUM, DENMARK, NORWAY, SWEDEN, wife attended university. Together, they founded St.
Stéphane Blohorn is the product of a Provençal FINLAND, GREECE, HUNGARY, SLOVAKIA, James Cheese Company, which supplies many of the
education, which shows in his love of the outdoors, MEXICO, BRAZIL, AND ARGENTINA: city’s restaurants and offers one of the largest
of animals, and of the gifts of the land. In 2005, Jim Davies has helped to run the Great British selections of cheese in the southern United States.
Stéphane took over Androuet’s house, and in 2006, Cheese Festival and the British Cheese Awards.
he was inducted into the Guilde des Fromagers He has a passion for seasonal, high-quality, local CANADA: Gurth Pretty is the founder of www.
(France’s elite cheese brotherhood). He dreams of foods, and is also a successful script writer and CheeseofCanada.ca; author of The Definitive Guide
preserving and furthering the quality and diversity PR consultant. to Canadian Artisanal and Fine Cheese (a World
of cheeses for future generations. Gourmand Cookbook award winner); and co-author
THE NETHERLANDS: Aad Vernooij has of The Definitive Canadian Wine and Cheese
ITALY: Vincenzo Bozzetti began his career as a been working in the Information Department Cookbook. He is active within the Canadian cheese
dairy master in 1960, and after nearly 40 years in of the Dutch Dairy Association since 1980. He industry as chairman of the Ontario Cheese Society
the industry, he began training and teaching cheese is the author of a book on the history of fine and as a member of La Société des fromages
judges for commercial trades and cheese contests. Dutch cheeses. du Québec.
Today, he is a manager and columnist for Il Latte,
an Italian dairy magazine. Vincenzo has written GERMANY, AUSTRIA, AND SWITZERLAND: JAPAN: In 1986, Rumiko Honma established
several dairy books and many articles for Italian Hansueli Renz was born into a life of cheese, as Fermier, a mostly French cheese company in Tokyo.
and international dairy magazines. both his father and grandfather specialized in Rumiko has always emphasized the origins of
making soft cheese. After attending the cheeses, and as such, has visited many places to see
SPAIN AND PORTUGAL: Monika Linton Commercial School in Neufchâtel, he progressed the cheeses being made. Rumiko has become one of
founded Brindisa, a highly respected warehouse from apprentice to master to expert. After working the key figures spreading information about
and shop that brings Spanish food to British for 15 years in his own soft cheese plant, which he European culture through cheese in Japan.
customers, 21 years ago. Armed with years of sold in 1987, Hansueli started a cheese shop with
instruction in the language and her experiences of his wife. In 2007 he sold the shop and retired. Rie Hijikata began exploring cheese by studying
living with Spanish and Catalan people, she has the history, origin, making, and terroir of cheeses.
guided the shop from its beginning, when it carried TURKEY, CYPRUS, LEBANON, AND ISRAEL: That knowledge base was expanded during a stay
only Spanish farmhouse cheeses, into the Cheese expert and chef Ran Buck studied at the at an organic cheesemaking farm in Switzerland.
CONTRIBUTORS
successful business it is today. French Culinary Institute and specialized in cheese Rie now works for Fermier’s import department.
at the New York Ideal Cheese Shop. Returning to
ENGLAND: Katie Jarvis’s interest in cheese Israel, Ran established two cheese importing AUSTRALIA: Will Studd has worked with
began at the age of eight, when she spent a year companies and a concept cheese shop. Ran wrote specialty cheeses for more than three decades.
in Paris. As a supporter of artisan producers, she Gvinot—the most complete and encompassing After establishing delicatessens in London, he
writes about food and reviews restaurants for guide to cheese written in Hebrew. moved to Australia. Will has written several books,
Cotswold Life magazine, and has written two books and he produces and presents the international
on the Cotswolds. She is one of the judges at the Sagi Cooper started his culinary writing career in TV show Cheese Slices. Following his campaign to
British Cheese Awards 2002. He writes for several magazines as well as allow the sale of raw-milk cheese in Australia, Will
online portals, including Israel’s www.ynet.co.il was made the only Ambassadeur of the Guilde des
SCOTLAND: Kevin John Broome took up a (where he co-writes a column about cheese with Fromagers and awarded the Ordre Mérite Agricole.
full apprenticeship in cooking and went on to Ran Buck).
achieve two Michelin stars for his cooking at both NEW ZEALAND: Martin Aspinwall started
of his co-owned Channel Islands restaurants. Kevin USA: Kate Arding is an independent dairy his cheese career during a one-year sabbatical
has won many awards for his fresh, unique, and consultant, co-founder of CULTURE magazine, from social work, which extended into several years
locally sourced dishes. and a regular judge at the ACS. In 2014, she at London’s Neal’s Yard Dairy. After emigrating to
started her own cheese shop, Talbott & Arding, New Zealand, Martin and his Kiwi wife Sarah 351
WALES: As a food writer, food consultant, and in Hudson, New York. Kate’s cheese career began started selling cheeses at the markets in
former chef to the rich and famous, Angela Gray at Neal’s Yard Dairy in London, from where she Christchurch, and in 2002, they opened
has had a lot of food experience. Her passion has moved to California to help establish Tomales Bay Canterbury Cheesemongers, a community
led her to present BBC cooking shows, write books, Foods. She now specializes in affinage, and has bakery and cheese shop.
and participate in live cooking festivals. been helping small cheesemakers since 2003.
IRELAND: Dianne Curtin is a freelance food Sheana Davis, creator and owner of The Epicurean
writer, stylist, broadcaster, and author with a Connection, is celebrating 20 years as chef, caterer,
special interest in Irish artisan food production. and culinary educator. She offers a range of food
In 2006, she set up a weekly artisan food market, experiences and services while traveling between
and in 2007, published her first book, The Creators, Sonoma, California, and New Orleans, Louisiana.
Individuals of Irish Food. Dianne works closely
with several organizations to promote Ireland’s Richard Sutton’s life-long love of cheese led him to
regional produce. work at Paxton & Whitfield in London, where he
acquired much of his cheese training. In 2006, he
moved to New Orleans, Louisiana, where he and his
Acknowledgments
About the author
Juliet Harbutt is one of the world’s most highly respected cheese experts. assistance; Jenny Faithfull for picture research; Susan Bosanko for the index;
She founded the renowned Jeroboams Wine & Cheese Shop when she arrived Rupert Linton and Katie Jarvis for food research and writing; Jane Ewart for
in Britain from her native New Zealand. Her passion and expertise was art direction in Paris; Susan Varajanant for food styling in New York; François
recognized with membership to the Guilde des Fromagers, Confrerie de at Androuët’s, Paris; Charles Martell at Dymock for allowing us to photograph
Saint-Uguzon, and the Confrerie des Chevaliers du Taste-Fromage de France. the Stinking Bishop process; Rebecca Warren, Michelle Baxter, Liza Kaplan, of
the New York office; Rita Costa and Cynthia Gilbert, of DK IPL; Rebecca
In 1994, Juliet created the prestigious British Cheese Awards and the Great Amarnani, Blaine Williams, Terri Moore, Gillian Morgan.
British Cheese Festival and was made a fellow of the Royal Society for the
Encouragement of Arts, Manufactures and Commerce in 2005 in recognition And the following for generously supplying cheese for photography: Rachael
of her work for British producers. Sills at KäseSwiss, Jonas Aurell at Scandinavian Kitchen, Monika Linton at
Brindisa, Rippon Cheese Stores, Neal’s Yard Dairy, Harrods, Sue Cloke at
Now a writer, consultant, competition judge, and lecturer, she regularly appears Cheese at Leadenhall, Dominic at The Borough Cheese Company, Valio, Rick
on TV and Radio from BBC Radio 4 Food Programme to The Hairy Bikers and Stein’s Delicatessen, Mr. Christian’s Delicatessen, Jeroboam’s, Rick Stein’s
travels the world educating and inspiring a new generation of cheese lovers. Delicatessen, Swara Trading International Ltd, Cynthia Jennings at Pant
Her latest project has been to establish a Cheese “School” and she is working Mawr Cheeses, Kathy Biss at West Highland Dairy, Kellys Organic, Mossfield
on her own range of cheeses. Organic Farm, Silke Croppe at Corleggy Cheese, De Kaaskammer, Poncelet,
Kaasaffineurs Michel Van Tricht & zoon, FrieslandCampina Cheese & Butter;
Juliet Harbutt’s Acknowledgments Dries Debergh at Het Hinkelspel; Adbdij van Postel; Chimay Fromages;
Writing, editing, researching, and publishing a book like this could not be Murray’s Cheese, New York; Luigi Guffanti, Italy; Jose Luis Martin, Spain;
achieved without a team effort from all concerned and a genuine commitment Rainha Santa; Iberica.
to achieving excellence, and the author would like to thank all those directly
involved, particularly the contributors and the team at Dorling Kindersley Picture Credits
in London. The publisher would like to thank the following for their kind permission to
reproduce their photographs:
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
However, I would like to say a special thank-you to those people who were (Key: a-above; b-below/bottom; c-center; l-left; r-right; t-top)
there to encourage, feed, and cajole me when the task seemed insurmountable. 6 Alamy Images: INTERFOTO. 11 Alamy Images: CuboImages srl (ca) (clb); geogphotos
Rory Goodman, Linda Slide, Sue Taylor and Winston from the Cotswold (cla). Prof David B Fankhauser, University of Cincinnati Clermont College, http://biology.
clc.uc.edu/fankhauser: (tc). 13 Syndicat du Crottin de Chavignol: (tc) (ca) (cla) (clb). 15
Consultancy, Katie Jarvis, freelance journalist, Jim Davis, script writer and
Fromagerie Gillot : (tc). Fromagerie Réaux: (cla) (ca) (cb) (clb). 19 Alamy Images:
researcher, Jon and Lisa Goodchild from the Cotswold Cheese Company, Miles CuboImages srl (tc); Jeff Morgan food and drink (clb). Photoshot: UPPA (cla) (ca) (cb). 21
and Emily Lampson of the Kingham Plough, Diana Tietjens and Sarah Alamy Images: CuboImages srl (tc); jack sparticus (cb). Colston Bassett Dairy Ltd: Noriko
Aspinwall (New Zealand), Kate Arding, Richard Sutton, Murrays Cheese Shop Maegawa (cla). Cropwell Bishop Creamery Ltd: (clb). Stilton Cheese Makers’ Association -
[New York] and Cowgirl Creamery (USA), George Mewes Cheese Shop and www.stiltoncheese.com: (ca). 38 Alamy Images: John Eccles (l). 39 Stéphane Godin: (tr) (cr).
Rory Stone (Scotland). 46 Alamy Images: 19th era (tl). Fromageries de Blâmont - Renard Gillard - Les Courtenay:
(tr). 47 Fromageries de Blâmont - Renard Gillard - Les Courtenay: (tl) (tr). 56 Alamy
Images: guichaoua (l). 57 Thierry Petit: (tl) (tr). 64 Alamy Images: Per Karlsson, BKWine 2
The knowledge and inspiration however for a book like this has come not only (br). Fromagerie Berthaut: (l). 65 Fromagerie Berthaut: (tl) (tr). 74 Alamy Images: Art
from working in the industry for nearly 30 years as a retailer, affineur, trainer, Kowalsky (l). Syndicat Interprofessionnel du Reblochon: (tr). 75 Alamy Images: sébastien
and speaker but from meeting my cheese heroes. The most influential and Baussais (cr); Photononstop (tl). Photolibrary: Tips Italia / Stefano Scata (tr). 82 Science
inspirational cheese experts of the 20th and 21st century whose common traits Photo Library: Dr Jeremy Burgess (bc). 83 Roquefort Société: (tl) (tr). 92 Fromagerie P
Jacquin & Fils: (l). 93 Fromagerie P Jacquin & Fils: (tl) (br) (cr) (tr). 110 Photo courtesy of
are a passion for cheese and a desire to share it. Patrick Rance, Pierre
the Consorzio per la tutela del formaggio Gorgonzola: (bl) (tr). 111 Photo courtesy of the
Androuet, James Aldridge, Eurwen Richards, Carole Faulkner, Val Bines, Consorzio per la tutela del formaggio Gorgonzola: (tc) (tr). StockFood.com: Martina Meuth
Mariano Sanchez, Eugene Burns, and all the wonderful cheesemakers who (tl). 120 Alamy Images: CuboImages srl (tc). Photolibrary: Tips Italia / Mauro Fermariello
have shared their cheeses and their dreams with me. (tr). 121 Corbis: Cesare Abbate / epa (tr). Photolibrary: DEA / G Sosio (br); Tips Italia /
352 Mauro Fermariello (tl). 122 Consejo Regulador Queso Manchego: (br). TipsImagesUK: (bl).
123 Consejo Regulador Queso Manchego: (tr). 130 Consorzio del Formaggio Parmigiano-
Dorling Kindersley’s Acknowledgments Reggiano: (l) (tr). StockFood.com: Picture Box / Ouddeken (br). 138 Foto Galizzi - www.
Updated edition 2015: The publisher would like to thank Ligi John for editorial valbrembanaweb.com. 139 Arrigoni Valtaleggio SpA: (tl) (cl). Photolibrary: Fresh Food
assistance, Claire Cross and Shalini Krishan for proofreading, Marie Lorimer Images / Jason Lowe (tr). 154 Alamy Images: Bartomeu Amentual (br). Getty Images:
for the index, Suresh Kumar for cartography, and Sachin Singh for illustrations. Manfred Mehlig (l). 155 Photolibrary: age fotostock / Lluis Real (tr). 180 Alamy Images:
Adam Burton (l). 181 The Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company: (tc). Photolibrary: Cephas
Picture Library / Neil Phillips (tr). 192 Alamy Images: Elmtree Images (l). 193 Colston
And the following for helping with the images in the book: Androuet London,
Bassett Dairy Ltd: Noriko Maegawa (tl) (cr) (tc) (tr). 200 Alamy Images: Mike Greenslade
Old Spitalfields Market; Grafton Village Cheese; Sara Remington for pictures (tr). 201 Lynher Dairies Cheese Company Ltd: (tl) (tr). 210 Alamy Images: David Langan
of Red Hawk cheese and St. Tam; Vera Chang for pictures of Shelburne (l). S N McGillivray: (r). 211 S N McGillivray: (tl) (tc) (tr). 216 Alamy Images: The
Cheddar; Fromagerie La Station for pictures of Raclette de Compton au Poivre; Photolibrary Wales (l). 217 Caws Cenarth Cheese: (tl) (ca). 232 Alamy Images: Peter Horree
and Yuanchang Wang for photographing Rubing cheese. (l). 233 Marjan van Rijn, Warmond, Netherlands: (tl) (tc) (tr). 242 Alamy Images: E J
Baumeister Jr (l). 243 Syndicat de l’Emmental Grand Cru - France: (tl) (tc) (tr). 258 Alamy
Images: superclic (bl). 259 Christakis SA: Dimitrios Koukos: (tl) (tc). 262 Corbis: Paul
First edition 2009: Will Heap, Alex Havret, Sara Essex, Kelsie Parsons, Edmondson (l). 263 StockFood.com: Michael Schinharl (tl) (br) (tr). 286 Frankeny Images:
Andrew Harris, Stephen Goodenough, Sean McDevitt, Oded Marom, and Cath (l) (r). 287 Frankeny Images: (tl) (tc)
Harries for photography; Danaya Bunnag, Mandy Earey, Pamela Shiels for
design assistance; Amy Sutton and Todd Webb for illustrations; Dawn Bates, All other images © Dorling Kindersley. For further information see: www.
Siobhan O’Connor, Helena Caldon, Tarda Davison-Aitkins for editorial dkimages.com