Untitled

eyewitness travel
Morocco
eyewitness travel
Morocco
Produced by Hachette Tourisme, Paris, France
Editorial Director Catherine Marquet

Project Editors Hélène Gédouin-Hines,
Catherine Laussucq, Paulina Nourissier
Art Director Guylaine Moi
Designers Maogani
Cartography Fabrice Le Goff
Contributors
Rachida Alaoui, Jean Brignon, Nathalie Campodonico,
Fabien Cazenave, Gaëtan du Chatenet, Alain Chenal,
Carole French, Emmanuelle Honorin, Maati Kabbal,
Mohamed Métalsi, Marie-Pascale Rauzier, Richard Williams The village of Tamtattouchte, at the northern
Dorling Kindersley Limited end of the Todra gorge, with several fine ksour
Publishing Manager Jane Ewart
Managing Editor Anna Streiffert
English Translation & Editor Lucilla Watson Contents
Consultant Christine Osborne
DTP Jason Little, Conrad van Dyk How to Use
Production Sarah Dodd
this Guide 6
Printed in China
First American Edition, 2002
17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Introducing
Published in the United States by DK Publishing, Morocco
345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014
Reprinted with revisions 2003, 2004, 2006, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2015, 2017 Discovering
Copyright © 2002, 2017 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London Morocco 14
A Penguin Random House Company
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright Putting Morocco on
reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored
in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, the Map 18
or by any means (electronic, mechancial, photocopying, recording, or
otherwise), without the prior written permission of both the copyright
owner and the above publisher of this book. A Portrait of Morocco 20
Published in the UK by Dorling Kindersley Limited.
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. Morocco Through
ISSN 1542-1554
the Year 42
ISBN 978-1-46545-720-2
The History
of Morocco 48
The information in every

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at
the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80
Strand, London WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: travelguides@dk.com.
A woman leaving the zaouia of
Front cover main image: Ksar of Aït Benhaddou, in the province of Ouarzazate Sidi bel Abbès
Painted wooden ceiling of the Bahia Palace in Marrakech
Marrakech 226
High Atlas 248
Ouarzazate &
The Southern Oases 264
Southern Morocco &

Western Sahara 286
A brassware and copperware shop in the
Quartier Habbous, Casablanca
Survival Guide
Morocco Region Practical Information 348
by Region
Morocco Travel Information 358
at a Glance 66
Index 366
Rabat 68
Northern Olives from the Dadès valley Acknowledgments 388

Atlantic Coast 86
Travellers’ Needs Further Reading 392
Casablanca 98
Where to Stay Glossary 393
302
Where to Eat and Drink

314
Shopping in Morocco 332
Entertainment in Morocco
Boundless expanses of desert 338
near Laayoune Dish from the Fès region
Sports & Outdoor
Southern Activities 342
Atlantic Coast 112
Tangier 132
Mediterranean Coast &

The Rif 146
Fès 166
Meknès & Volubilis 188
Middle Atlas 210 The Mausoleum of

Moulay Ismaïl at Meknès (pp198–9)
6  HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide helps you get the most important sights, using photographs,
from your visit to Morocco, providing expert maps and illustrations. Restaurants and hotel
recommendations and detailed practical recommendations, and information about
information. Introducing Morocco maps hiking, trekking and other outdoor activities,
the country and sets it in its historical and can be found in Travellers’ Needs. The Survival
cultural context. The 13 sections comprising Guide contains practical tips on everything
Morocco Region by Region, six of which focus from visiting mosques to transport around
on the country’s major towns, describe the country.
Major Cities Coloured thumb tabs

MOROCCO REGION BY REGION  227
indentify the various regions
In this guide, Morocco is MARRAKECH of Morocco.
described in 13 sections, three of Such is the importance of Marrakech that it gave its name to Morocco.
For more than two centuries, this Berber city at the point of interchange
between the Sahara, the Atlas and the Anti-Atlas was the hub of a
which concentrate on Morocco’s great empire, and the achievements of illustrious builders can be
1
seen within the city’s walls. It is the capital of the great South
historic imperial cities – Fès,

and, although it is now only Morocco’s fourth city after
Casablanca, Fès and Rabat, with a population approaching
a million, its fabulous palaces and luxuriant palm grove
Introduction
continue to hold a powerful fascination for visitors.
Each city’s geographical
Meknès and Marrakech – and Marrakech was founded in 1062 by Merinids of Fès, and for over 200 years
Almoravids from the Sahara. These warrior Marrakech stagnated. It was not until
setting and economic
three on the country’s major monks soon carved out an empire that the 16th century that the city was
life are described, as

stretched from Algiers to Spain. In 1106, reinvigorated by the arrival of the
Ali ben Youssef hired craftsmen from Saadians, most notably by the wealthy
modern cities – Rabat, the capital, Andalusia to build a palace and a mosque
in the capital. He also raised ramparts
around the city and installed khettaras
Ahmed el-Mansour. The Saadian Tombs,
the Ben Youssef Medersa and the
remains of the Palais el-Badi mark this
well as its historical
Casablanca and Tangier. A section (underground canals), an ingenious
irrigation system that brought water
to its great palm grove.
golden age. In 1668, Marrakech fell to
the Alaouites, who made Fès, then
Meknès, their capital. development and
is devoted to each city, except for
The Almohads took the city in 1147. In the 20th century, Marrakech
Abd el-Moumen built the Koutoubia,
a masterpiece of Moorish architecture,
embraced the modern age with the
creation of the Quartier Guéliz, built features of interest
Meknès. Each city’s major sights
and his successor was responsible for during the Protectorate. Visitors continue
building the kasbah. But the Almohad
dynasty collapsed, to the benefit of the
to flock to this magical city, and tourism
is central to its economy today. to the visitor.
are described in detail.
A country map shows

the city’s location in Morocco.
A woman leaving the zaouia of Sidi bel Abbès

228  MOROCCO REGION BY REGION MARRAKECH  229
The Koutoubia Mosque, the largest mosque in Marrakech
Exploring Marrakech Bab Er
2
Rharaza
N9
City Map
The rich history of Marrakech is reflected in its N7
various quarters. The medina, above which rises

the minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque, the emblem
R
N8
O
RU
U
E
of the city, corresponds to the old town. Place
For easy reference, the sights

TE
ZAOUIA K
AA Gueliz
Jemaa el-Fna, the hub of all activity, is its heart. EL ABESSIA EL
MEC Bab el
H RA Khemis Marrakech MARRAKECH
Within the ramparts are the souks (north of RH AL
EM Bab
N8
S I DI Kechich Hivernage P31
Place Jemaa el-Fna), the kasbah and the mellah R.
ZAOUIA
(the Jewish quarter). Guéliz, in the northwest, Bab
Taghzout
SIDI GHALEM
are numbered and located
L
OU E
Marrakech-
is the new town laid out by Marshal Lyautey
RU
Menara
RIAD AL
ASS
E
0 km 2
under the Protectorate. It is filled with Western-
RUE
03
12
AROUS
DE
on a map. The main streets,

R2
R2
R UE
0 mile 1
style offices, businesses and a residential
BA
DE
ASSOUEL Area of Main Map

IL
Bus
B
OU
area. Avenue Mohammed V is the district’s Station

UT
BA
RUE
main thoroughfare. Extending Guéliz in the

BO
EL
ARSET BEN
TA
bus stations and railway

GZ
EL MOUKEF
EL
southwest is Hivernage, a verdant quarter

G
A
E
CHEBLI
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with many hotels that also dates from the A Bab ed
U
KHEM
R.
DERB
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Bab
R
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Doukkala L FAK ue
Protectorate. The district is bordered on A ME
EL d
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E A GH
OUI
BB sil
RUE
DE R B S O U SS A N
US
stations and tourist offices

RU DE D
its western side by the Menara Gardens,
RU
E
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ED S
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B
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and on its eastern side by the walls RU
E
R.
DU
S O U K DES F A
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EL
A R SA
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DE BAB D OUKK AL
A
of the medina.
EL
Dar el
NE
DE R B
DAR
Bacha
R . M O U A S SI
ESSEBTIYNE
are also shown.

KAAT
RU
EL
FA
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MOUSASSINE BENAHID
M
AD
E L KS O U K
IR
A
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0 metres 400
AL
I
IS
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N PLACE BEN
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SE
Key Railway Station

A
Bab Aylen
R.
M SALAH
RE
MOUASSINE
BT
1km (0.6 miles) A 0 yards 400

AYLEN
E LY BA B
MP
ZOH R
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Major sight
NE
I
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Ensemble D
AR
E
Bab SI
S M AR
RU
Artisanal
Nkob
ARSET EL
A
PLACE SIDI
Sight
SOUK UE
TS
AV E E YOUB
NU RU
R
BO
Medina
E
JBE
L PLACE RUE SID
I BO U LABADA BARAKA
DABACHI
UL
BAB
ARSET MOULAY R. HDAR FTEUH E
RU E
LAK
E V AR
Ramparts ABDESSLEM AN
R. KENNARIA
RR
I A YA D
M IA
I O UB RU FA
BT TO
DOUAR
D
H U PLACE UA E
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AB
BE
S
M
ED EL EL-FNA GRAOUA BA RU
E
. AR
EL V R DOU B
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RU
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A locator map shows the central

RU E
AB PLACE
A IL
E
EL
R U Bab el AH
RIA
FOUCAULT Palais
E
ISM
M
RU
R IAD
Makhzen Moulay
DU
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AD
D E
Idriss
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Y
AGN
RU
YA
LA
Sights at a Glance
D JENA
Z
TE
M OU
EZ
E C ET Bab
RM
ZIT
KOUTOUBIA AGDAL
BAB
R .R
area of each city in its context.

Aghmat
GARDENS
N BEN
OU
OU
BA AHMAD I
Z ITOU
R. DE
R.
Arset el AL
Squares and EZ
K
N E
Bab el A V. H O U M M A N E L F E T O U A K I A V. Mokha RH
BAHIA
Hospital R . D E LA
Historic Quarters
N
CHE G
Jedid EL
L
PLACE
KED
AM
A
YOUSSEFF
E L JE DI
IM
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4 Ben Youssef Medersa

FA
AV
8 The Souks pp234–5 TACHINE HO

UM E
BAB GHEMAT
NA
IM
RU
EN
M
0 Place Jemaa el-Fna 7 Bab Doukkala Mosque
BA
AN
D
CEMETERY
R UE
ÏD
UE
EL
OQ
Souk el Bab
LA
r Mellah 9 Mouassine Mosque MAMOUNIA

FET
OU Salaam
SID
BE
AK
GARDENS I
p Méchouars q Koutoubia Mosque
I
PLACE DES
RUE
MIM
BA
RUE
FERBLANTIERS Bab
f Guéliz pp240–41 EL MAAC
H
B
SIDI ET
O UN
Berrima
R . A RS MELLAH
y Kasbah Mosque
DU
Historic Buildings MIMOUN

Getting Around
DJEN
JÉD
3 Chrob ou Chouf Fountain Museums

AN
The only way to explore

RU
EL
ID
6 Koubba Ba’Adiyn 5 Musée de Marrakech SIDI ES SOUHEÏLI

E
Bab er
the souks and the medina
AFIA
CEMETERY Robb
w La Mamounia Hotel a Dar Si Saïd Museum
E
is on foot. The ramparts and

RU
DE
Berrima
e Palais Bahia Mosque
most other features of interest
Gardens
LA
t Palais el-Badi BAB to visitors can be reached by car,

s Aguedal Gardens KASBAH HMAR
u Saadian Tombs
d Menara 2 3 2M A R  M O R O C C though
O R E Gparking
I O N Bcan
Y beR Edifficult.
GIONA MARRAKECH  233
KA
i Bab Agnaou OUTER

BAB
AH very pleasant and inexpensive way of
SB
Royal MECHOUAR DE
o Dar el-Makhzen g Majorelle Garden RUE
travelling around the city is by yellow
AH
Palace
h La Palmeraie INNER Bab petit taxi or horse-drawn carriage. It is wise to
MECHOUAR
Mosques and Religious er Rih
agree in advance the fare for your journey. Petits
Bab el the Koran in calligraphic script and
Buildings Bab
Ksiba
Aghdar
taxis and carriages can be hired mainly in Guéliz (on is lit by 24 windows decorated
Averroës
1 Zaouia of Sidi bel Abbès I Avenue Mohammed V, near the central market and with a tracery of plasterwork. Born in Córdoba in 1126, Averroës (Ibn Rushd) was one of the
IRH L
2 Zaouia of Sidi ben
R.
DE
BAB the large hotels) and around Place Jemaa el-Fna, most renowned Muslim scholars of his day. Like other men of
Slimane el-Jazouli near the central police station. learning at the time, his knowledge encompassed medicine,
5 Musée de law, philosophy, astronomy and theology. Born into an important
For hotels and restaurants see pp306–313 and pp320–31 For keys to symbols see back flap
Marrakech Cordoban family, he was the grandson of an imam at the Great
Mosque in Granada. Under the patronage of Abou Yacoub Youssef,
Place ben Youssef. Tel (0524) 44 18 93. Averroës divided his time between Seville,
Open 9am– 6:30pm daily. & Córdoba and Marrakech. He took the
place of his friend and teacher, the
This museum is laid out in the
famous physician Abubacer (Ibn Tufayl).
Dar Menebhi, a palace built at
Basing his approach on his own reading
the end of the 19th century The Koubba Ba’Adiyn, the only vestige of of Aristotle, he promoted a rationalist,
by the grand vizier of Sultan the Almoravid mosque rather than an esoteric, interpretation
Moulay Mehdi Hassan. The of the Koran. This brought him
Sights at a Glance lists the chapter’s Zellij tilework in the Ben Youssef Medersa
building is in the style of a
traditional Moorish house.
The decorated door – which,
6 Koubba Ba’Adiyn
Place ben Youssef. Tel (0524) 44 18 93.
Open 9am–6pm daily. &
condemnation from Córdoba.
However, he was soon rehabilitated
by the Almohad ruler Yacoub
Ben Youssef
sights by category: mosques and
4 Covering an area of some as in many Moorish houses, el-Mansour, who gave him asylum
Medersa 1,720 sq m (18,514 sq ft), this is the only opening in the This brick-built dome is the in Marrakech until his death in Averroës, the great 12th-century
harmoniously proportioned otherwise featureless external only example of Almoravid December 1198. philosopher
Place ben Youssef (in the medina). medersa appears as it was walls – leads through to an architecture in Marrakech.
churches, historic buildings, museums, Tel (0524) 44 18 93. Open 9am–6pm

daily. &
originally designed, with no
later alteration. The dome,
decorated with exquisite
open courtyard with zellij
tilework and three marble
basins in the centre. The
Built by Ali ben Youssef in
1106, originally it formed part
of a richly decorated mosque
of Marrakech (see p61), at the
beginning of the 20th century.
to the Koutoubia Mosque
(see pp240–41) and the Kasbah
parks and historic districts. This Koranic school is not only

one of the finest but also one of
the largest in the Maghreb, with
stalactites within, can be
seen from the street. The
main entrance, a bronze door
courtyard gives access to
the rooms on the ground
and upper floors.
that was demolished by
the Almohads. Miraculously
spared, the rectangular
While one part of the build-
ing contains a library, another
is used to receive heads of
Mosque (see p242).
The minaret, which is
crowned by a gallery with
a capacity for up to 900 students. topped by a carved cedar lintel, The museum’s collection is pavilion was rediscovered in state during official visits. merlons, is of strikingly
It was founded by opens onto a mosaic-paved displayed in two wings. One 1948. It contained an ablutions The palace has several simple design. The adjacent
the Merinid sultan corridor, which contains contemporary art, pool fed by three reservoirs. beautifully decorated court- Mouassine Fountain consists
Abou el-Hassan in turn leads to Orientalist paintings and a While the exterior is decorated yards lined with zellij tilework, of three large drinking troughs
in the mid-14th the courtyard. series of original engravings with chevrons and pointed stuccowork, painted wood for animals and a fourth
century, and was This masterpiece of Moroccan subjects. arches in relief, the interior and muqarnas (stalactites). for people. The fountain is
rebuilt by the of Moorish The second wing contains is graced by scalloped and It also features a fine enclosed within a portico
Saadian sultan design is paved a rather haphazard display of horseshoe arches and floral Andalusian garden planted with decorative stuccowork
Moulay Abdallah with white objects: coins from the Idrissid ornamentation. These elements with fruit trees. The palace and carved wooden lintels.
3
in the 16th century. marble and has period of the 9th century to anticipate the full-blown is reputed to have
Detailed Information
This fact is recorded an ablutions pool that of the Alaouites in the artistic creativity of been the venue
by the inscriptions in the centre. present day; illuminated copies Islamic architecture. for some wild and
carved into the The walls are of the Koran, including a extravagant parties.
lintel above the decorated with 12th-century Chinese example
7 Bab Doukkala
All the sights in each city are entrance, together

with the date, 1564.
The medersa
takes its name from
Bronze door of the Ben
Youssef Medersa
zellij tilework
below and
carved plaster
above. A double
and a 19th-century book of Sufi
prayers; southern Moroccan
jewellery; Tibetan dress, 17th-
and 18th-century ceramics;
Mosque
Rue de Bab Doukkala.
Closed to non-Muslims.
8 The Souks
See pp234–5.
described individually. Addresses, the Almoravid

mosque of Ali ben Youssef to
which it was once attached. For
tier of galleries
supported on thick columns
lines both sides of the court-
and some fine decorated
Berber doors.
Dar el-Glaoui: Closed to visitors.
This place of worship was built 9Mouassine

Mosque
telephone numbers, opening
four centuries this mosque was yard. The students’ cells on in the mid-16th century by the
the focal point of worship in the the ground and upper floors mother of the Saadian ruler Mouassine Quarter.
medina, and with the medersa it opened onto the courtyard. Ahmed el-Mansour. Its slender Closed to non-Muslims.
constituted an important centre Those that are arranged around minaret, crowned by four
hours, admission charges and

of religion. seven smaller interior courtyards golden orbs, and its refined The Saadian sultan
Architecturally, and with its are shielded from daylight. decoration are reminiscent of Moulay Abdallah
sumptous decoration, it is on a A magnificently ornate the Kasbah Mosque (see p242). established this place
par with the Merinid medersas, doorway leads through to the Next to the building stands an of worship, which was
information on how to get there

particularly the Bou Inania large prayer hall. The room is ornate fountain with a bowl built between 1562
Medersa of Fès (see pp176–7). By crowned by a pyramidal cedar surmounted by three domes. and 1573 on what is
building it, Moulay Abdallah was dome and divided into three by From here, Rue de Bab thought to be a former
expressing his desire to restore marble columns with capitals Doukkala, going towards the Jewish quarter. Its
are given for each sight. The key to to Marrakech the prestige of an
to affirm his devotion to Allah.

with calligraphy praising
imperial capital and simultaneously Moulay Abdallah. The mihrab
is decorated with verses from
Zellij tilework in the courtyard of the
Musée de Marrakech
centre of the medina, leads to
Dar el-Glaoui, the palace built
by El-Glaoui, the famous pasha
design as well as
its decoration bear
certain similarities Dar el-Glaoui, palace of the popular pasha, El-Glaoui
symbols is shown on the back flap. For hotels and restaurants see pp306–313 and pp320–31
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE  7
SOUTHERN
ATLANTIC COAST
Like the whole of Morocco’s Atlantic coastline, the area
Each area of Morocco is Morocco Region by Region
south of Casablanca is of variable interest to visitors. It is, identified by colour-coded
In this book, the country is
however, worth the detour, as much for the architecture
of the fortified towns built by the Portuguese, such as
El-Jadida and Essaouira, as for the breathtaking coastal thumb tabs.
described in 13 chapters, six of
scenery. In addition, there is also the coastal resort of
Oualidia, which has a very safe beach.
1
Morocco’s southern Atlantic coastal area stretch of coastline is industrial and visibly
contains many smaller towns and resorts,
which are especially attractive to those
who wish to escape the frenetic activity
oriented toward the modern world: most of
the country’s phosphate is produced here,
the industry attracting a large workforce
Introduction which concentrate on Morocco’s
of the imperial cities.
This region, more than almost any other
part of Morocco, has always had contact
from the interior.
The entire coastline, punctuated by scenic
viewpoints over the ocean, is ideal for bird-
An overview major cities and seven on the
with the outside world. The Phoenicians,
then the Romans, established trading posts
watching and palaeontology. Gourmets will
also enjoy Oualidia’s famous oysters. of the history and country’s main regions. The map
here. The Portuguese and the Spanish built The road, excellent from Casablanca
military strongholds and centres of trade
along the coast, whose topography also
to Essaouira, passes stunningly beautiful
deserted beaches that are ideal for surfing. characteristics of on the inside front cover shows
each region is given.
made it a haven for pirates. Fortified towns It winds on to Agadir, the great sardine-
like El-Jadida, Safi and, most especially,
Essaouira bear witness to the Spanish and
Portuguese contribution to Morocco’s
processing port and Morocco’s most popular
coastal destination. The wild landscape is
dominated by the argan tree. Goats can
this regional division. The most
history. Under the French Protectorate,
the region became the country’s economic
and administrative centre. Today, this
often be seen climbing its branches to feed
on its fruit. The tree (see p131) produces
the highly prized argan oil.
interesting places to visit are
Country maps show the given on the Regional Map at the
location and area of each beginning of each chapter.
region of Morocco.
114  MOROCCO REGION BY REGION S O U T H E R N AT L A N T I C C O A S T  115
Exploring the Southern Atlantic Coast

This part of Morocco’s Atlantic coastline is punctuated by the
Fishing boats in the harbour at Imessouane, south of Cap Tafelney
fortified towns of Azemmour, El-Jadida, Safi and Essaouira,
The old Portuguese water cistern in El-Jadida
which were established by the Portuguese in the 15th and 16th
centuries. The road running inland from Settat to Boulaouane
crosses a stunningly beautiful plateau, carved out of the
landscape by Wadi Oum er-Rbia (Mother of Spring), where all EL-JADIDA
Sidi Boubeker
Lighthouse
CASABLANCA
Dar Bouazza
Bir-Jdid
Rabat
o
u
i a
Sights at a Glance
1 Settat
2 Kasbah Boulaouane
3 Azemmour
4 El-Jadida
5 Moulay Abdallah
6 Oualidia
7 Safi
8 Kasbah Hamidouch
2 Regional Map
This shows the main road
network and gives an
Berrechid
the colours of the splendid Doukkala region can be seen. Further AZEMMOUR
9 Chiadma Region
a
illustrated overview of the

a
south, the road leading to Agadir offers interesting tours up into 0 Essaouira pp124–9
Wa
Souk-Khemls-
the lower foothills of the High Atlas. In the 1970s, the most MOULAY q Tamanar
d
des-Gdana
iO
ABDALLAH Khourigba
accessible part of the foothills was given the name Paradise w Tamri
u me
Valley. The well-marked road that winds between luxuriant SETTAT

whole region. All interesting
r- R b i a
Oulad-Saïd Tour
cascades provides points of departure for hikes in the mountains,
e Imouzzer des Ida Outanane
and it eventually leads to Imouzzer des Ida Outanane, a quiet Boulaouane
KASBAH
places to visit are numbered

summer resort. Sidi Smaïl BOULAOUANE
OUALIDIA
h
Arba-Aounate
la
Tlete Sidi Mechra-

ä
and there are useful tips on

bou Arizz Bennour Benâbbou
k
k
u
Getting Around Cap Beddouza
D
Skhour-des-
A motorway runs between Rehamna
Sidi
getting around.
Casablanca and El-Jadida, which Aïssa Arba-
Amrane
is a distance of 99 km (62 miles).
From here, the N1 goes to Agadir. SAFI
This major road goes inland from Ben Guerir
Tleta-de-Sidi- Youssoufia
El-Jadida as far as Essaouira, 360 km AT L A N T I C Bouguedra
(224 miles) from Casablanca, and O C E A N Sebt-des- B a h i r a
runs near or actually on the coast Gzoula
for the 165 km (103 miles) between Tnine Rhiate Chemaïa Ej-Jemâa
Essaouira and Agadir. However, KASBAH
HAMIDOUCH Sidi-Bou-
the quickest route to Agadir is Tleta-lrhoud Othmane
by motorway via Marrakech. A Talmest El-Arba
dual carriage-way runs between A J b i l e t
Marrakech and Essaouira. The R301 M
D
is a minor road that follows the Moulay IA O u e d Te n s i f t Beni Mellal
Story boxes explore some of

Bouzerktoun CH MARRAKECH
coast between El-Jadida and Ha Dra Sidi-Mokhtar
Essaouira, passing through Oualidia Taflecht
and Safi, 241 km (150 miles) from Ounara Chichaoua Ouarzazate
ESSAOUIRA z
the region’s historical and cultural

Casablanca. A motorway and the u The sqala (bastion) in the harbour at Essaouira
ao
N9 run inland from Casablanca Cap Sim -H
towards Settat (and Marrakech). Sidi Kaouki Al
From Settat, the R316 leads to
subjects in detail.
Bouaboute
Kasbah Boulaouane, from where Smimou Dar-Caïd- Key
Zemzem Imi-n-
it is easy to rejoin the coast road. Tanoute Motorway
h a
Cap Tafelney
H a Sebt-des- Motorway under construction
Ait-Daoud Major road
TAMANAR
Khemis- Minor road
Igui-Nilieud
Track
Arhbalou
Railway
Djebel Touchka Summit
TAMRI 1690m
IMOUZZER DES
IDA OUTANANE
Taghazoute 116  MOROCCO REGION BY REGION S O U T H E R N AT L A N T I C C O A S T  117
0 km 20
AGADIR 0 miles 20
Taroudannt century, it was the scene of a
battle that halted the advance Boulaouane Wine
Azemmour, on Wadi Oum er-Rbia Tiznit A potter adding finishing touches to a tagine in Safi
of the Portuguese towards the Connoisseurs consider that the wine known as
For hotels and restaurants see pp306–313 and pp320–31 For keysinterior. Moulay
to symbols Ismaïl
see back flap revitalized Gris de Boulaouane, a rosé with an orange tint,
the village by choosing to build is one of the best Moroccan wines.
a kasbah here in 1710 – in an Although the Romans successfully
attempt to pacify and control exploited the soil and climate of
the region. Mauretania Tingitana to grow vines,
The stone-built fortress is the establishment of Islam in the
encircled by a crenellated Maghreb did not further the upkeep
3
wall set with bastions and of the vineyards. Under the French
Detailed Information
pierced by an angled gate Protectorate, the vineyards were
with three pointed arches. Extensive vineyards near Boulaouane revived, and in 1956 wine production
passed into state control. The state-
Above the gate is an inscrip-
owned company that marketed Gris
tion with the name of Moulay
de Boulaouane collapsed, however, and the quality of the wine deteriorated. The French
All the important towns and

Ismaïl and the date of the company Castel retook control of Moroccan wine production in the 1990s: the old vines
A village near Settat, on the fertile coastal plain of Chaouia kasbah’s foundation. were dug up and new stock planted, this time Cabernet-Sauvignon, Merlot, Cinsault,
This gate, which Syrah and Grenache gris. Today, Moroccan vineyards cover 350 hectares (865 acres)
1 Settat Environs accommodated sentries, is in the district of Boulaouane, the Doukkala region, the foothills of the Atlas and along
other places to visit are dealt Road Map C3. * 100,000.

@ £ n Avenue Hassan II,
El-Haram building; (0523) 40 58 05.
The tiny village of Boulaouane
can be reached by road from
Settat. The journey there gives
a foretaste of the semi-arid
the only point of entry into the
fortress. It leads through to
the sultan’s palace, which is built
around a central courtyard with
the Atlantic coast. The vines are planted in sand, the heat of which prevents the
development of phylloxera. The grapes are hand-harvested at the end of August
and the wine, bottled in France, is exported mostly to Europe.
A bottle of Gris de
Boulaouane
with individually. They are

_ Moussem of the Chaouia (first
week in July or in Sept), Chaouia Folk southern landscapes. The roads elaborate mosaic decoration.
Art Festival (final week in Nov). are lined with Barbary fig trees, Beside the palace, a square mosque and city walls are the former Portuguese presence
( daily; livestock market Sat. and donkeys can be seen tower about 10 m (33 ft) high, undergoing restoration work. – the style of the doors being
listed in order, following the

carrying barrels of the local and now disfigured by cracks, The region is also famous for particularly prominent in this
A crossroads between north rosé wine. afforded a vantage point over its tradition of falconry, a sport respect. The town also has a
and south, Settat is the capital the surrounding territory. still practised today by falconers tradition of Portuguese-style
of a province with some 850,000 Disused vaulted armouries were from several important embroidery, which features
2 Kasbah
numbering given on the

inhabitants. It is the economic used for storing food supplies. local families. dragons and lions depicted face
hub of the Chaouia, a coastal Boulaouane The mosque, with five aisles, is to face, an exclusively Moroccan
plain that is known as Morocco’s Road Map C3. in a very bad state of preservation. motif. The mellah (Jewish
grainstore. While the north Next to it is the tomb of a saint 3 Azemmour quarter), once within walls, is
Regional Map. Each entry also of the region is famous for its
fertile agricultural land, the
southern part is given over
to livestock (chaoui means
Located in a meander of Wadi
Oum er-Rbia, this stunning
named Sidi Mancar, whom the
region’s inhabitants still revere
kasbah stands on a promontory today, since he is believed to
in the heart of a forested area have the power to cure paralysis
Road Map B2. * 32,800. @
n Avenue Mohammed V.
_ Moussem (Aug). ( Tue.
now derelict. The synagogue,
however, has a notable pediment
with an inscription in Hebrew.
contains practical information “breeder of sheep”).

When Moulay Ismaïl built the
covering 3,000 hectares (7,400
acres). It was apparently built
Kasbah Ismaïla, at the end of the by the Almohads, who made it
and sterility.
Ceaselessly battered by
the elements, the kasbah
An ancient Almohad town
located on the left bank of
the Wadi Oum er-Rbia estuary, A typical Portuguese-style door in the
Environs
Eight kilometres (5 miles)
north on the coast road, the
such as map references,

17th century, the security and an imperial stopping place on has suffered a great deal of Azemmour is also known by the medina, Azemmour Sidi Boubeker lighthouse
stability of the region – which the road running along the deterioration over the centuries. name of Moulay Bouchaïb – offers a view of the town’s
was traversed by major caravan coast and inland to Fès. At It was declared a historic the town’s patron saint, who, They abandoned the town Portuguese defences. Haouzia
routes – was strengthened. The the beginning of the 16th monument in 1922. The in the 12th century, was also when Agadir fell in 1541. beach, starting 2 km (1.5 miles)
addresses, telephone numbers

sultan would stay in the kasbah patron saint of the trade that Despite its year-round gentle southeast of Azemmour,
on his travels between Fès then flourished between the climate and coastal location, stretches for 15 km (9 miles)
and Marrakech. Vestiges of the town and Málaga, in Spain. Azemmour has few hotels and from the Oum er-Rbia estuary
building can still be seen in In 1513, the Portuguese took not many tourists come here. The to El-Jadida. Along the way
and opening times. the modern town.

Today, Settat offers little of
interest to tourists. However,
under the aegis of Driss Basri, a
control of the town. The fort
that they built became the
kasbah that can be seen today.
narrow white streets of
the medina are peppered with
architectural features recalling
it passes a forest of eucalyptus,
pine and mimosa with
flowering cacti.
native of the region and Minister

of the Interior for almost 20 years,
it stood as a model of urban
development in the 1990s. The
merits of this distinction can be
seen from Place Hassan II, in the
town centre, in the arrangement
of open spaces and of pedestrian
and shopping areas, and in
buildings combining Art Deco
and Moorish styles. Kasbah Boulaouane, built in the 18th century Embroidery with dragon motifs, of Portuguese inspiration and typical of Azemmour
For hotels and restaurants see pp306–313 and pp320–31
198  MOROCCO REGION BY REGION MEKNÈS & VOLUBILIS  199
0 Mausoleum of Moulay Ismaïl Entrance to Mausoleum

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical information at the

This imposing carved stone doorway,
surmounted by an awning and a
Featuring a suite of three rooms, 12 columns and a central pyramidal roof, indicates the Practical Information
sanctuary where the great sultan (see pp58–9) lies, the Rue Sarag, Meknès.
importance of the royal building to
beginning of each entry includes a

Open 9am–noon & 3–6pm daily.
Mausoleum of Moulay Ismaïl is in some aspects reminiscent which it gives access.
of the Saadian Tombs in Marrakech (see pp242–3). The
mausoleum was built in the 17th century and was remodelled
in the 18th and 20th centuries. The wife of Moulay Ismaïl and
his son, Moulay Ahmed al-Dahbi, as well as the sultan Moulay map reference relating to the road
Abderrahman (1822–59), are laid to rest in the burial chamber,
which is decorated with stuccowork and mosaics. View of Meknès and the mausoleum
map on the inside back cover.
Finials
The roof of the mausoleum
is topped with five brass
spheres indentifying the
building as a shrine or
sacred place.
Mihrab
The mausoleum’s
mihrab is located in the Small Courtyards
open courtyard. This
unusual position differs
from the arrangement
En route to the burial
chamber you pass through
several empty courtyards,
The Visitors’ Checklist provides a
summary of the practical information
at the Saadian Tombs which are decorated in a
in Marrakech sober style. This allows
(see pp242–3). visitors to leave behind
them the noise and
bustle of the city.
you need to plan your visit.
Prayer Hall
The floor of the prayer hall is
covered with mats on which
worshippers kneel to pray or
to reflect before going into
the burial chamber.
. Zellij Tilework
The lower part of the walls
of the rooms leading into
the burial chamber is
covered with traditional
4 Morocco’s Top Sights
These are given two or more full
pages. Buildings are dissected to
zellij tilework, mosaics of
Decorated Door KEY

glazed polychrome tiles.
. Courtyard & Fountain

show their interiors.
This carved and painted The ablutions room, paved with
wooden door between 1 Tomb of Moulay Ismaïl green glazed tiles, is a courtyard with
the ablutions room and . Burial Chamber 2 Clock presented by Louis XIV, a star-shaped fountain and bowl. Its
the second room of the This consists of a suite of three rooms, (see pp58–9) 12 columns come from the el-Badi
burial chamber is similar including the ablutions room with central Palace in Marrakech.
3 Cemetery
Stars indicate the best sights and

to those of the palaces fountain (above) and the room containing
and fine town houses the tomb of Moulay Ismaïl, and those of his 4 Open courtyard
of Meknès. wife and sons.
important features.
For hotels and restaurants see pp306–313 and pp320–31 Spectacular interiors of the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismaïl
introducing
morocco
Discovering Morocco 10–17

Putting Morocco on
the Map 18–19
A Portrait of Morocco 20–41
Morocco Through
the Year 42–47
The History of Morocco 48–63
10  iNTRoduCiNg MoRoCCo
DISCOVERING MOROCCO
The following tours have been designed to which cover the fascinating cities
take in as many of the country’s highlights of Meknès, Fès and Volubilis over four
as possible, while keeping long-distance days, and Tangier and the alluring
travel manageable. The first two itineraries Mediterranean Coast over seven days.
outlined here take in the sights of Morocco’s The 14-day itinerary encompasses
capital city Rabat and its commercial the attractions of Marrakech and the
hub Casablanca. These itineraries can be South, a region that offers so much to
followed separately or combined to form experience. Choose and combine tours
a longer trip. Next are two individual tours, or dip in and out and be inspired.
Casablanca
Atlantic
Ocean
Oualidia
Marrakech
Essaouira
Asni Aït
Benhaddou
Skoura
Tizi-n-Test Pass Ouarzazate
Taourirt
Kasbah
Agadir
Taroudannt
Souss Massa
National Park
Place Jemaa el-Fna

Tiznit
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this iconic
square comes alive in the evening with
throngs of locals and visitors savouring
grilled meats and watching musicians
and jugglers or listening to storytellers.
Tan Tan
14 Days in Marrakech and the South
•
Take a horse-drawn •
Follow the picturesque but
carriage ride from outside tortuously snaking road
Marrakech’s towering through the western Atlas
Koutoubia Mosque for a Mountains to experience
circular tour of the city. the Tizi-n-Test Pass.
•
Savour the atmosphere of •
Walk in the footsteps
the bustling Place Jemaa of Hollywood stars at
el-Fna before heading off Ouarzazate and
Key
to haggle in the souks. Aït-Benhaddou.
14 Days in Marrakech
and the South
•
Join locals and artists •
Go on a camel trek
along the Sqalas on a visit near Mhamid to see
7 Days in Tangier and the
Mediterranean Coast to the pretty fishing village the first sand dunes of
4 Days in Meknès, Volubilis
of Essaouira. the vast Sahara.
and Fès
Moroccan Festival, a painting by André Suréda (1872–1930)

discovering morocco  11
Tangier Ceuta 7 Days in Tangier and

Mediterranean Sea
the Mediterranean
Tétouan
Cap des
Trois Fourches
Coast
Melilla
Al-Hoceima Wander the mesmerizing
Nador
•
Saïdia labyrinth of alleyways that

Chefchaouen Moulouya
Estuary open onto dusty squares in
Zegzel Gorge Tangier’s ancient medina.
Oujda •
Learn about local history in
Tangier’s Dar el Makhzen,
which houses the Musée
Volubilis Archéologique.
Fès
•
Admire the panoramic
Meknès view of Tangier from atop
the Colline du Charf.
Ifrane •
Be captivated by
Chefchaouen, one of
Morocco’s prettiest towns,
famous for its medina and
weavers producing jellabas.
•
Trek through the Zegzel
Gorge, between the
towns of Saïdia and Oujda.
Dadès Gorge
4 Days in Meknès, Volubilis and Fès
Boumalne du Dadès
•
Survey the imperial city •
Explore the remains of the
of Meknès from atop once magnificent town of
the beautiful Bou Volubilis in the foothills of
Inania Medersa. the Zerhoun Mountains.
Draa Valley
•
Examine displays that •
Wander around the
Zagora
include a traditional historic medina of Fès
Tamegroute Moroccan-style room and stop by the city’s
at Meknès’s Musée most famous landmark,
Mhamid Dar Jamaï. the Karaouiyine Mosque.
•
Spend some time •
Tuck into a succulent
away from the bustle chicken tagine in one
of the city at the Bassin of the elegant restaurants
0 kilometres 100
de l’Aguedal. in Fès el-Jedid.
0 miles 100
Musée Dar Jamaï

Set in a former palace,
this museum houses an
absorbing collection
of traditional ceramics,
carpets, jewellery and
exquisite examples of
woodwork among other
exhibits. The museum’s
leafy Andalusian garden
offers a tranquil spot.
12  INTRODUCING MOROCCO
family, and the elaborately

decorated Hassan Tower (see
p78). These majestic buildings
are considered Rabat’s most
prominent landmarks. The
mausoleum’s twelve-sided dome
with muqarnas (stalactites), and
the intricate motifs on Hassan
Tower’s topmost level deserve
particular attention.
Day 2
Morning Get a feel for
modern-day Rabat by spending
the morning in the attractive
Ville Nouvelle (see p79). Wide
tree-lined boulevards, such as
the Avenue Mohammed V,
and vast areas of parkland
The majestic Mausoleum of Mohammed V, Rabat provide the backdrop to
Hispano-Maghrebi-style
fortress. Look out for the oldest residential buildings and office
2 Days in Rabat mosque in Rabat, the El-Atika blocks. Amble through the
Mosque, on Rue Jamaa. Round town’s green spaces to reach
•
Arriving Rabat is served up the morning spending an the contemporary Musée de
by the modern Rabat-Salé hour or so in the Musée des la Monnaie, which occupies
International Airport, located Oudaïa (see p74), admiring its the Bank of Morocco building
about 8 km (5 miles) from collection of Berber jewellery and tells the history of the
the city centre. An express and traditional costumes. country’s currency. Afterwards,
shuttle bus service runs take the Rue Abou Inan,
between the terminal Afternoon From the Oudaïa which leads to the Art Deco
and the Rabat Ville Train Kasbah, follow the scenic Cathédral Saint-Pierre, dating
Station, located in Place Wadi Bou Regreg, a road that from the 1930s.
Mohammed V. runs alongside the river, past
•
Moving on Casablanca is the Jewish district, to the Afternoon Arrive at the Musée
86 km (53 miles) away from El-Alaouiyine boulevard. Archéologique (see pp82–3),
Rabat and easy to reach by Located at a little distance which contains the largest
road or rail from the city’s from here is the Mausoleum collection of archaeological
train station. of Muhammad V (see pp80–81), treasures in Morocco. Most of
a massive white Italian marble the artifacts displayed have
structure, which contains the been recovered from the town
Day 1 tombs of members of the royal of Volubilis. The museum is
Morning Start the day with extensive, and could easily
a visit to Rabat’s bustling take up the entire afternoon.
medina. Dozens of shops line However, leave time to visit
the medina’s arterial road, the the Chellah Necropolis (see
Rue Souïka (see p78), which p84), a burial place and site of
throngs with people going the Roman city Sala Colonia.
about their everyday lives. Follow the Avenue Yacoub
Continue along the Rue Souk el-Mansour, past the walls of
es-Sebat (see p78), then turn the Dar el-Makhzen (see p84),
left into Rue des Consuls the seat of the Moroccan
(see p75) to reach the famous government, to get here.
Wool Market, where a carpet
auction is held every Thursday. To extend your trip…
Up ahead is the Bab Oudaïa Take a leisurely drive through
(see p74), a monumental gate the foothills of the Middle
leading to the Oudaïa Kasbah Atlas (see pp211–25) to
(see pp72–3). A walk through the see rural villages or travel
kasbah will reveal architecture along the coast to Moulay
from the Almohad period Bousselham (see p95),
(1147–1248), and from the 17th famous for its lagoon that
century when Moulay Ismail Exterior of a typical house decorated with attracts migrating birds.
transformed it into a formidable potted plants in the Oudaia Kasbah, Rabat
For practical information on travelling around Morocco, see pp364–5
DISCOVERING MOROCCO  13
2 Days in Casablanca the world. Then, drive or walk

and the Coast along one of the boulevards
signposted to the port.
•
Arriving Located 30 km
(19 miles) south of the city Afternoon Arrive at the Old
centre, the Mohammed V Medina (see p104) that lies off
International Airport serves the Boulevard des Almohades.
Casablanca and links it to The area has changed little
Morocco’s major cities. Taxis in the past century, even as
and car hire companies can Casablanca continued to expand
be found outside or within around it. Market stalls covered
its three terminals. in copper pots and old jewellery A seafront café along the Corniche d’Aïn
•
Moving on Casablanca has line the medina walls daily; join Diab, Casablanca
a good road network linking the locals in search of a bargain.
it to the Southern Atlantic Next, head to the Place des Evening Head out of the
Coast. Domestic flights, Nations Unies (see p102), south city centre via the Boulevard
trains from Casa-Port station of the medina, where major Zerktouni, past the Casablanca
and the N1/N6 highways thoroughfares, such as the Twin Center (see p110), to the
provide easy options for Boulevard Mohammed V (see elegant, elevated coastal suburb
onward travel to Meknès. p102), converge. The arcaded of Anfa (see p111). There are
buildings here house trendy wonderful panoramic views
restaurants and designer fashion of the city to be enjoyed from
Day 1 centres. End the day with a here. Go for a drive along
Morning The monumental screening at the Rialto cinema. the Corniche d’Aïn Diab
Hassan II Mosque (see pp106– (see p111), an avenue lined with
107), as it stands silhouetted Day 2 tidal swimming pools, beaches
against the sky, is the perfect Morning Take a leisurely and hotels, before heading
place to start this itinerary. morning stroll through the Parc to one of the many upmarket
The mosque is situated on a de la Ligue Arabe (see p104), restaurants for a last sumptuous
promontory with the Atlantic Casablanca’s largest park. Admire dinner in Casablanca.
Ocean waves crashing against the tall palm trees vying for
the shore behind it. Take a tour attention amid lavishly planted To extend your trip…
of the fabulously ornate interior flowers beds and lawns designed Drive 180 km (112 miles)
crafted by master artisans; soak to a formal French layout. The south-west from Casablanca
in the spectacular views of splendid Art Deco houses that to Oualidia (see p119), an
the ocean bed through the surround the park are also worth unassuming town near a
glass floor of the Prayer Hall. a look. Next, head northwest gorgeous lagoon and beach.
Later, pause awhile outside to to reach the Villa des Arts It is famous throughout
contemplate the scale of this gallery and spend the afternoon Morocco for the succulent
architectural marvel and the appreciating contemporary oysters that thrive here.
minaret, which is the tallest in Moroccan painting.
Opulent interiors of the Prayer Hall in Hassan II Mosque, Casablanca

Exquisitely carved courtyard with a pool in the centre in Bou Inania Medersa, Meknès
4 Days in Meknès, Mausoleum of Moulay Ismaïl and the triumphal arch,

Volubilis and Fès (see pp198–9) nearby, which is which affords wonderful vistas
famous for its elaborate of the site. A café provides
•
Arriving The international stuccowork. Later, drive past refreshment during the day.
Fès-Saïss Airport serves the Dar el-Makhzen (see p196)
the city of Fès and Meknès. to the Dar el-Ma (see p197), Day 4: Fès
While buses ferry visitors a grand water house that Wander around the medina
into central Fès, trains lies along side the tranquil in Fès el-Bali (see p169) and
run from the terminal to Bassin de l’Aguedal (see p197). see the Andalusian Quarter
the Ville Nouvelle in Meknès. Be sure to stop by the Heri (see p179), with its towering
Car hire companies have es-Souani (see p197), a mosque, and the Tanners’
offices in the airport. monumental building once Quarter (see p179), where
•
Transport A car and driver used to store grain. locals work on the hides that
are ideal for this itinerary. are processed to make leather
However, the medinas in Day 3: Volubilis slippers sold in the souks. Visit
both Fès and Meknès can Spread over a vast plateau in Fès’ most famous landmark,
only be explored on foot. the foothills of the Zerhoun the Karaouiyine Mosque (see
Mountains, the ruins of the pp180–81), then head to the
•
Moving on Flights and
ancient city of Volubilis (see Fondouk el-Nejjarine (see
trains can be taken from
pp206–209) easily warrant a p171), a splendid former cara-
Meknès, and buses run
day of exploration. Dating vanserai. The coppersmiths’
from Fès to Tangier.
from around the 3rd century workshops around here are
BC, Volubilis was one of worth checking out. Spend
the wealthiest cities of the an hour or more exploring the
Days 1 and 2: Meknès Roman Empire’s Kingdom of souks (see p171), including the
No visit to Meknès would be Mauretania. Take time out to El-Attarine Souk with its heavenly
complete without exploring see the well-preserved basilica aroma of spices. The Bou Inania
the medina with its massive Medersa, which houses the
ramparts and bustling souks Musée Dar el-Batha (see
(see p192). Spend time at the pp172–3), offers an afternoon
Grand Mosque (see p192), learning about local history. End
the most important place of the day with a drive to the Fès
worship in the city, and admire el-Jedid district (see pp184–88) to
the sweeping view of Meknès dine on a tasty chicken tagine.
from the top of the Bou Inania
Medersa (see p193). While away To extend your trip…
the afternoon at the Musée dar Visit Ifrane (see p216), which
Jamaï (see p194) where displays lies around 63 km (39 miles)
include a Moroccan-style room south of Fès high in the
with lavishly decorated walls Middle Atlas mountains.
and furnishings. In summer, it offers a respite
Start the next day at the from the heat; in winter,
Koubba el-Khayatine and blanketed by snow, it
Habs Qara imperial pavilion Elaborately decorated gate leading to the becomes a ski centre.
(see p196), and then head for the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismail, Meknès
7 Days in Tangier and Day 3: Tangier

the Mediterranean Head out of the city to the
Coast Bay of Tangier (see p145) – the
cragged coastline here has some
•
Arriving The Ibn Batouta of Morocco’s best beaches. The
International Airport is Colline du Charf (see p145), a
located 15 km (9 miles) south- hill rising to a height of 100 m
west of Tangier and, along (328 ft), provides a backdrop
with the smaller airports at to the beaches and is a popular
Oujda, Nador and Al-Hoceima, drive for Tangier locals. Almost
serves Morocco’s northern the whole city can be seen from
coast. Visitors can also arrive a vantage point at the summit.
and depart by ferry.
•
Transport A car and driver is Day 4: Ceuta and Tétouan The town of Chefchaouen, with the
essential for visiting the Bay of Begin at one of Ceuta’s (see p151) ech-Chaoua rising in the background
Tangier as well as for touring two top museums, the Museo de
the Mediterranean Coast. la Legión that elaborates the role in Morocco. Relax awhile
of the Spanish Foreign Legion in here, then head for Nador
•
Moving on Domestic flights
Morocco, before heading to the (see p162), and on through
from Angads Airport in Oujda
Museo Municipal. Then, explore the Spanish town of Melilla
fly to Marrakech.
the plazas and cobbled streets of (see p162) until the dramatic
this picturesque Spanish enclave. landscape at Cap des Trois
From here, follow the coast road Fourches (see p163) comes
Day 1: Tangier or take the highway to Tétouan into view. The rock formations
Tangier’s medina is a (see p153) and wonder at its and beaches offer excellent
mesmerizing place, with centuries-old “living museum” photo opportunities.
alleyways opening onto dusty medina. In contrast is Tétouan’s
squares and the minaret of the Ville Nouvelle, a place of elegant Day 7: Moulouya Estuary
Kasbah Mosque dominating Hispano-Mauresque architec- to Oujda
the scene (see p136). Soak up ture and boulevards. See oystercatchers, flamingos
history in the Dar el Makhzen, and terns on a visit to the
which houses the Musée Day 5: Chefchaouen Moulouya Estuary (see p163),
Archéologique (see p136). Allow a day to appreciate a nature reserve located just
Wander through the medina Chefchaouen (see p154–5) – outside Saïdia (see p164). The
to the Rue Es-Siaghine (see one of the prettiest towns in Zegzel Gorge (see pp164–5)
p138). Lined with cafés and Morocco. The town is famous for nearby offers a challenging
souks, this street is always fun. its 500-year-old blue-and-white trek to Oujda (see pp164–5) –
Turn right for the Grand Socco, medina dotted with weavers’ there is a road from Saïdia for
otherwise known as the Place workshops producing jellabas. the less adventurous.
du 9 Avril 1947 (see p142), and Be sure to visit the kasbah
stay until evening when the and the Musée Ethnographique To extend your trip…
square turns into a colourful, that occupies a traditional Check out the tourist board’s
open-air bazaar. galleried house in its grounds. suggested itineraries and
routes for hikers that take in
Day 2: Tangier Day 6: Al-Hoceima to Cap the best of the Rif Mountain
Start the day in Rue d’Angleterre, des Trois Fourches region (see pp154–5), includ-
from where exhibits in the A fishing harbour and resort, ing the scenic Talassemtane
Galerie d’Art Contemporain Al-Hoceima (see p157) is one of National Park.
Mohammed Drissi beckon the most beautiful coastal spots
(see p142), then drive on to
admire the architecture of the
Anglican Church of St Andrew
(see p142). Enjoy lunch in the
Café de Paris, located on the
corner of Place de France
(see p143). The café is Tangier’s
most famous eatery and the
primary haunt of its legendary
literati. The afternoon can be
spent exploring the Art Deco
Ville Nouvelle. Its main thor-
oughfare, Avenue Pasteur (see
p143), is where locals amble
each evening. Spectacular view of a zigzag road leading to Al-Hoceima
14 Days in Day 2: Marrakech

Marrakech and On the second day in town,
the South revel in the splendour of
Marrakech’s palaces. Start with
•
Arriving International the Moorish-style Dar Menebhi,
flights, and those from which houses the Musée de
Moroccan cities, arrive and Marrakech (see p232), displaying
depart from the modern a collection of contemporary
Marrakech-Menara Airport art and Orientalist paintings.
in Marrakech. Proceed by car to the Dar
•
Transport Marrakech is Si Saïd (see p244) palace to
a large city and a car and see its exquisite museum
driver is necessary to see exhibits. End the day with a
its outlying sights. Domestic visit to the grand 19th-century
flights are available between Palais Bahia (see p238) and the
Marrakech and Agadir’s sprawling remains of the 16th- Fishing boats moored at the
Al Massira Airport, the Plage century Palais el-Badi (see p239). port, Essaouira
Blanche Airport in Tan Tan
and the Mogador Airport Day 3: Marrakech Day 5: Essaouira
in Essaouira. Smaller airports Explore the bustling streets A three-hour drive from
serve Zagora, Taroudannt of Marrakech’s kasbah district Marrakech, Essaouira (see p124)
and Ouarzazate. where even everyday life is is a delightful fishing village,
a spectacle. Look up at the popular with artists. Join locals
Kasbah Mosque’s fine minaret in strolling along the sqalas
Day 1: Marrakech (see p242) before heading out or bastions built to protect
Start at Koutoubia Mosque to the magnificent and ornate the town from the sea. Spend
(see pp240–41) with its stunning Saadian Tombs (see p242). time on the beach and explore
minaret and restored pink- The quiet garden here offers a the busy port and brilliant
coloured brickwork. Hop respite from the busy kasbah. whitewashed medina.
aboard a horse-drawn carriage
from outside the mosque for a Day 4: Marrakech Days 6 and 7: Agadir
circular tour of Marrakech. Once Flora is the theme of the day, Drive or fly to the growing
back, head to Place Jemaa with visits by car to the city’s metropolis of Agadir (see
el-Fna (see p238) and take historic Aguedal Gardens pp290–91), whose mild climate
the time to soak in the festive (see p246), the vast Menara draws holidaymakers to its
atmosphere created by dancers, (see p246) where locals take beaches. Take time to admire
musicians and snake-charmers a daily walk around the pool, Berber exhibits in the Musée
who throng the place. Reserve and the beautiful Majorelle Municipal du Patrimoine
plenty of time to navigate the Garden (see p247) in the heart Amazighe, and visit the Jardin
network of tiny streets in the of Ville Nouvelle. On the outskirts Olhao museum to see how
souks. Don’t miss the Ben is the La Palmeraie (see p247), Agadir was rebuilt after an
Youssef Medersa (see p232), said to contain 150,000 trees. earthquake. Around 10 km
one of the finest Koranic Camel rides are available (6 miles) away is Polizzi Medina,
schools in Morocco. around the garden. a relatively new medina built
in the traditional style.
Day 8: Tan Tan or Souss

Massa National Park
For a taste of unspoiled Morocco,
complete with camel markets
and nomads, go out to Tan Tan
(see p298) – take an early
morning flight from Agadir
as it is nearly 350 km (217 miles)
south. Alternatively, take a road
trip over a couple of days to
see the Souss Massa National
Park (see p296), which hosts
hundreds of migratory birds
from southern Spain and
France. A little further south
is Tiznit (see p296), where
craftsmen produce Berber jew-
The Art Deco museum surrounded with cacti and palms in Majorelle Garden, Marrakech ellery and other items in silver.
Ruins of the Tamnougalt kasbah in the midst of palm groves near Draa Valley
Day 9: Taroudannt (see p268) is the dramatic containing a priceless

Return by air to Agadir and focal point of a Berber village. collection of manuscripts
head 80 km (50 miles) east Drive 30 km (19 miles) to Aït- is a must see.
to spend the afternoon in Benhaddou (see p269), a UNESCO
Taroudannt (see p292). Behind World Heritage Site that has also Day 14: Camel trek into
the mighty red-ochre ramparts had a starring role in many films. the dunes
are scenes of traditional Berber Return to Ouarzazate for the night. No visit to Southern Morocco
life, including craftspeople would be complete without
making jewellery and creating Day 12: Skoura to a camel trek into the dunes.
carvings of white stone. Pick Dadès Gorge Short guided trips into the
up exquisitely crafted souvenirs See some of the most splendid Tinfou Dunes and the Chigaga
at one of the souks here. kasbahs in Southern Morocco Dunes, which lie south of the
in Skoura (see p276), a pretty border post town of Mhamid,
Day 10: Tizi-n-Test Pass town surrounded by palm are available from Zagora (see
and Asni groves in the Wadi Dadès. Drive p272) or Tamegroute (see p273).
Devote this day to getting a on to the town of Boumalne
taste of rural and mountainlife. du Dadès (see p277), which To extend your trip…
The plains heading out of marks the beginning of the The fishing port of Tarfaya,
Taroudannt towards the western Dadès Gorge (see p277). Join along with Laayoune and
Atlas Mountains are pristine and a guided trek or simply admire Dakhla in the deep south
dotted with argan trees before the panoramic views for which (see p298), are beautifully
the ascent to the mountains the region is famous. unspoiled and reward
begins. A picturesque but travellers making the long
serpentine, and at times narrow Day 13: Draa Valley to journey with breathtaking
road, leads through the Tizi-n- Tamegroute desert scenery.
Test Pass (see p256) and on to After a leisurely drive through
the scenic village of Asni (see the scenic Draa Valley (see p272),
p256), with its red-walled kasbah allow a few hours to mingle
and surrounding orchards. with the Berber residents of
Zagora (see p272). Take time
Day 11: Ouarzazate to to sit and think about the
Aït-Benhaddou camel caravans that once
Drive to the beautiful passed through here into the
Ouarzazate (see p268), where Sahara – a famous road sign
the mountains meet the desert. in the town reads “Timbuctu
An amble around this delightful 52 Days by Camel”, referring
town will reveal small red-pink to the number of days it might
kasbahs standing in an orderly take to reach Timbuktu in Mali.
fashion along wide streets. About The lovely village of Amazraou
6 km (4 miles) out of town is the nearby is known for its intricately
Atlas Film Studios where hundreds fashioned silver jewellery. Further
of Hollywood films have been on is Tamegroute (see p273),
shot, while in the opposite an important educational and Typical desert landscape surrounding the
direction the Taourirt Kasbah religious centre. The library town of Zagora
Putting Morocco on the Map

Morocco has many faces. It is situated on the African continent and has traces of
African heritage. But its climate and varied topography, its historical association with
Andalusian Spain, and its wish to join the European Union give it a European facet.
In the distant past it belonged to the indigenous Berbers. To the Arabs and Muslims
who have held Morocco since the 7th century, it is known as Maghreb el-Aqsa – the
westernmost country of the Muslim world. Morocco has 35,800,000 inhabitants,
almost 40 per cent of whom are under 15 years old. The population is unevenly
distributed over the country’s 710,850 sq km (274,388 sq miles), being concentrated
along the Atlantic coast and in the Rif and the High Atlas mountains.
Safi
Essaouira
Atlantic
Essaouira
Ocean Mogador
Taroudannt
Agadir
Agadir Al Massira
Tiznit
Tafraoute
Lanzarote
Can ar y Islands
(SPAIN) Guelmim
Tan Tan
La Palma Fuerteventura Plage
Sidi Tan Tan
Las Palmas Akhfennir
Tenerife
Tarfaya
Gran
Canaria
El-Mahbas
Laayoune
Hassan
Smara
Bir Lehlou
Cape Bojador
WESTERN
SAHARA
0 km 100
Guelta
0 miles 100 Zemmour
MAURITANIA
Dakhla Key
Dakhla
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Railway line
Ferry route
National border
Disputed territory border
For keys to symbols see back flap

PUTTING MOROCCO ON THE MAP  19
Málaga Motril Almería Tipaza
S PA I N Sidi Merouane
Gibraltar (UK) Mediterranean

Sea Chlef
Tangier Ceuta (SPAIN) Mostaganem
Oran
Tangier Ibn Battouta Tetouan Melilla
Al- (SPAIN)
Larache Ghazaouet Sidi Bel
Hoceima Abbes
Nador
Cherif Al
Ksar el-Kebir Idrissi Angads
Ketama Oujda
Tlemcen
Kénitra
Rabat Fès Taza Guercif
Meknès
Casablanca Rabat- Fes-Saïss El-Bayadh
Salé
Ifrane Mecheria
Azrou
El-Jadida Khenifra
Settat Midelt Ain Sefra
Imilchil Rich
Beni Boudnib Figuig
Mellal Er-Rachidia Beni Ounif
Marrakech Boumalne Tinerhir Béchar

Marrakech du Dadès Erfoud
Menara Rissani
Ouarzazate Alnif Abadla
Asni
Ouarzazate Merzouga Taghit
A L G E R I A
Zagora
MOROCCO
Mhamid
Tata
Akka Timoudi
Charouine
Tindouf
Reggane
Africa
TUNISIA IRAN
IRAQ
MOROCCO ISRAEL
ALGERIA LIBYA EGYPT

SAUDI
ARABIA
MAURITANIA
MALI NIGER SUDAN
SENEGAL ERITREA
CHAD
BURKINA
GUINEA FASO
NIGERIA CENTRAL
SIERRA SOUTH
LEONE AFRICAN ETHIOPIA
SUDAN
LIBERIA REPUBLIC
CAMEROON SOMALIA
IVORY GHANA UGANDA
TOGO CONGO KENYA
Tropic of Cancer COAST
BENIN
GABON DEMOCRATIC
REPUBLIC
OF CONGO
TANZANIA
I n d i an
O c e an
ANGOLA
M A L I At l a nt i c MALAWI
ZAMBIA
O ce a n
MADAGASCAR
ZIMBABWE
NAMIBIA
BOTSWANA MOZAMBIQUE
0 km 2000 SOUTH
AFRICA
0 miles 2000
INTRODUCING MOROCCO  21
A PORTRAIT OF
MOROCCO
Morocco is like a tree whose roots lie in Africa but whose leaves breathe in
European air. This is the metaphor that King Hassan II (1929–99) used to
describe a country that is both profoundly traditional and strongly drawn to
the modern world. It is this double-sided, seemingly contradictory disposition
that gives Morocco its cultural richness.
Morocco is a country that is unique in the Mohammed VI, as well as the establishment
Muslim world. Its richly diverse culture has of a left-wing coalition government and
been shaped by 3,000 years of history, by the problems that the government faces
ethnic groups whose roots go far back in regarding the economy and a reformed
time, and also by its geographical location, constitution by Mohammed VI, Morocco
with the Atlantic Ocean to the west, sub- today stands on the threshold of a
Saharan Africa to the south, Europe to the challenging new phase in its history.
north and the Mediterranean countries to
the northeast. An Evolving Society
The Moroccan people are torn between Since the 1950s, Morocco has undergone
the lure of modernity on the one hand profound social change. Traditional
and a profound desire for Islamic reform tribal cohesion has been replaced by the
on the other. With events such as the European-style nuclear family, polygamy
death in 1999 of Morocco’s king, Hassan II, has become distinctly rare, a money-
and the enthronement of his son, based economy is now the norm, and
Au Petit Poucet, an historic bar in Casablanca

Beautiful interior of the Moulay Idriss II Mosque in Fès
has made attempts to tackle three

major scourges: illiteracy, unemployment
and poverty. The government has
increased spending on education at all
levels and education is compulsory, but
many children – particularly girls in rural
areas – do not attend school. Country-
wide literacy rates are estimated at 67.1
per cent among the adult population,
but the female literacy rate in rural areas
Members of a Gnaoua brotherhood is as low as 10 per cent.
the notion of individuality has emerged. Berber Culture

These changes have been accompanied With its mixed Berber and Arab
by a growth in the urban population population, Morocco has, however,
and by the rise of a bi-cultural successfully maintained ethnic and
elite, with a traditional cultural stability and equality between
background and a the Berber and Arabic languages.
European outlook. Although Tamazight, one of the major
With an unusually variants of the Berber language, is not
large percentage of spoken or taught in schools, it is
young people, Moroccan heard on Moroccan radio and
society is unmistakably television. The movement to
breaking away from the promote Berber language and
past. However, Morocco culture through the medium
still faces the challenge of newspapers, concerts
of resolving the difficulties and other cultural events
that sharp contradictions is dynamic, as are efforts
in its social, political and to encourage the wider
economic life present. use of the language and to
Since gaining independence nurture respect for the
from France in 1956, Morocco Water-seller in Marrakech rich Berber culture. Pilot
Filming at the Atlas Studios at Ouarzazate

A PORTRAIT OF MOROCCO  23
in March 1999 were met by

opposition and incited the wrath of
the Minister of Religious Affairs, the
ulemas (councils) and Parliament’s
Islamic deputies. In 2005, following
years of resistance from religious
bodies, Morocco’s king introduced
a new mudawwana, which has
improved the status of women,
granting them the right to own
and inherit property, divorce their
husbands and be entitled to child
custody and child support.
Traditional agricultural labour in the Ourika valley Political Change

Until the death of Hassan II in
projects, such as the construction 1999, Morocco was ruled by a distant
of mosques, wells, roads and schools, and autocratic king. The effect of the
have been undertaken in the southern attempted coups d’état of 1971 and
Souss region, funded by money sent 1972 was to encourage the Moroccan
back by Berbers of southern Morocco authorities to control the wheels of
working abroad. government even more tightly. Driss
Basri, then Minister of the Interior,
The Status of Women was responsible for this clampdown.
Women today work in all sectors – as At the end of his reign, Hassan II
political delegates and ambassadors, began to relax his authoritarian grip
airline pilots, company directors and on power by involving the left wing
royal advisers; they are also Olympic in the country’s government.
champions, writers, publishers, active In February 1998, a government of
militants and journalists. Thus they have national unity, led by the Socialist leader
a secure place in Moroccan society. Abderrahmane Youssoufi, was formed,
In the space of 30 years, the
status and position of women
has radically changed. The
constitution of 10 March 1972,
which granted women the right
to vote and to be elected, was
the first of these changes. In
1994, 77 women were elected to
the Chamber of Representatives.
However, the highly militant
feminist associations were still
not entirely satisfied. They
demanded the abolition of the
mudawwana – a statute of 1957
that dominates the lives of
Moroccans and prevented
women from being treated as
fully fledged adults. Moves to
raise the status of women made Berber women in the traditional costume of the Rif
The Rose Festival in El-Kelaa M’Gouna
although in the years since, specially formed. This led to the

its success is deemed to success of the Islamic Party of
have been limited. Justice and Development (PJD),
Since 1999, Mohammed VI the third political party in the
has ushered in a different style country after the Socialist Party
of government. Underlying (USFP) and the Istiqual Party,
his political approach are a the principal opposition party
willingness to listen more closely to the coalition government.
to his people and a commitment Berber cameraman The terrorist bombs of May
to countering Islamic radicals. He 2003 in Casablanca, which
also won popular support for sacking killed 43 people, brought instability
Driss Basri, Minister of the Interior. to the country, halting the progress
Brushing aside protocol, he publicly of democratization started by
presented his wife and ordered the Mohammed VI. However, parliamentary
setting-up of royal commissions to elections were again held in 2007.
look into economic development,
the problem of the Western Sahara, A Varied Economy
employment and education. Morocco’s geographical location, at
For the September 2002 parliamentary the nexus between Africa and Europe,
election, Morocco had more than 20 brings it considerable economic
parties, many of which had been advantage, especially in the fields of
tourism, agriculture and the textile
industry. The discovery of extensive
oil-fields has also been a boost for
the country’s economy. Fishing and
hydroelectric power are Morocco’s
other two natural resources. The
economy also benefits from the influx of
funds sent back by Moroccans working
abroad. Some US $2,000 million are sent
back to Morocco each year.
The arrival of multinational companies
Schoolchildren in the Dadès valley has transformed telecommunications
and has led to an explosion in the use

of mobile phones. The number of
computers has also risen.
Nevertheless, the Moroccan economy is
handicapped in several ways: agriculture
is dependent on rainfall, the education
system is inadequate, energy costs are
prohibitively high, and sparse investment
is made in the population. In 2014, the
number of people living on or below
the international poverty line stood at
6.3 million. Every year, around 500,000
rural emigrants swell the poor ghettos
in the towns and cities. For a number
of reasons, the economic reforms
introduced by the government of
national unity have not had the A spice and medicinal plant seller in one of the souks of Marrakech
anticipated effect. Morocco is being
encouraged by the World Bank to technological infrastructure. The country
develop a business environment that is is in need of modernization, although the
more competitive, achieve sustainable evolution of true democracy is likely to
job creation and boost exports. be slow. This is a key policy since the slow
The country has a positive image progress of reforms is encouraging young
in Europe, and relations are being people to emigrate. Under Mohammed VI
consolidated. In March 2013, negotiations there has been economic liberalization
for free trade status between Morocco but time will tell whether he will succeed
and the EU were formally launched. The in significantly reducing poverty and
arrangement depends on Morocco unemployment, controlling Islamic
putting in place a solid financial and radicals and abolishing illiteracy.
The bustling Jemaa el-Fna in Marrakech

The Landscape and Wildlife of Morocco

With a mountain range exceeding a height of 4,000 m
(13,130 ft) and a coastline stretching from the
Mediterranean to the Atlantic, Morocco has a varied
topography. In environments ranging from arid
scrublands to cedar forests and high mountains,
plant life comprises over 4,000 species adapted
to extreme conditions. The coast is visited by
migratory birds while the mountains are the habitat
of Barbary sheep and birds of prey, including the The argan, a tree growing only in
lammergeier (see p223). southwestern Morocco (see p131)
Mountain Forests and High Steppes Arid Coastal Regions and Desert
Forests grow in the Rif, the Middle Atlas and the The rocky coastal lowlands between Safi and
western High Atlas, at altitudes of 1,400–2,500 m Agadir has an annual rainfall ranging from
(4,600–8,200 ft), where annual rainfall is 650 mm– 40–150 mm (1.5–6 in). Vegetation, which is
2,000 mm (25–78 in). The varied vegetation here adapted to saline conditions, consists of sparse
includes Atlas cedar, maritime pine and holm- shrubs, mostly acacia. Further south is the desert
oak. The high steppes, covered with low, thorny with ergs (sand dunes) and the stony hammada.
vegetation, are found at altitudes over 2,700 m
(8,860 ft) in the High Atlas (see pp222–3).
The bald ibis,

almost extinct, is
found in the Souss
The golden eagle is Massa National
seen mostly in the Park (see p296), a
mountains, where fertile exception to
it preys on jackals, the arid littoral.
bustards and small
mammals.
The Barbary squirrel,
whose favourite food is
argan nuts, inhabits
The lammergeier the arid lowlands of
builds its nest on southwestern Morocco.
rocky outcrops. It
is a scavenger but The great cormorant
sometimes also kills nests on sea cliffs
its prey by knocking between Agadir, in
it off high rocks the north, and the
with a strong flap Arguin sand banks
of its wing. of Mauritania.
The Macaque or Barbary Ape

The macaque is North Africa’s only monkey. Three-
quarters of the population lives in the cedar forests
of the Middle Atlas, up to an altitude of 2,000 m
(6,565 ft). Macaques are also found in the Rif,
the High Atlas and on the Rock of Gibraltar. The
animals live in colonies of 10 to 30 individuals,
consisting of adults and young monkeys of both
sexes. In summer, they feed on caterpillars, acorns,
mushrooms and asphodel bulbs. In winter, their
diet consists of grasses, cedar leaves and
sometimes bark. The macaque, a tail-less monkey of North Africa
Scrub and Steppe Dry Woodland

Southeastern Morocco consists of steppes Almost all the low-lying and middle-altitude
covered in esparto grass and artemisia. On the regions on the northern side of the Atlas are
high plateaux, on the southern slopes of the covered by dry woodland. Annual rainfall here
High Atlas and on part of the Anti-Atlas annual ranges from 350 mm–800 mm (14 in–31 in) and
rainfall ranges from 100 mm–300 mm (4 in–12 snowfall is occasional. Trees include holm-oak,
in) and snow is rare. Trees include Atlas pistachio, cork oak (pictured above) and kermes oak, olive,
juniper and ash. Barbary thuya, and Aleppo and maritime pine.
The Numidian
crane nests on
Morocco’s
high plateaux Dorca’s gazelle
in summer. inhabits the semi-
desert regions of
the south and
east. It feeds on
The Houbara bustard grasses and
lives in the semi-desert acacia shoots.
plains of the south.
The golden jackal

is found throughout The booted eagle
North Africa and lives in the forests
in the Sahara. It of the north and the
can survive for Atlas Mountains. It
long periods makes its nests in
without water. tall trees.
The Urban Architecture of Morocco

The history of urban architecture in Morocco goes
back more than 1,000 years. The Karaouiyine Mosque
in Fès was built in 857 by the first Idrissid rulers of
Morocco (see p50), who founded the city. From the
age of the Idrissids until the 20th century, a succession
of many different architectural styles has produced
a rich architectural heritage. The artistic conventions
and styles of each period shed light on the secular
and religious life of the rulers and people who lived Karaouiyine Mosque (see pp180–81), the
in those times. earliest Idrissid building
The Almoravids (11th–12th C.) The Almohads (12th–13th C.)

It was under the Almoravids that the Moorish The Almohads, under whom the Ibero-
style developed in Morocco, which was then Maghrebian empire reached its apogee,
the centre of an Ibero-Maghrebian empire. established an architectural style that
Andalusian elements included the horseshoe later dynasties were to emulate. The
arch and the lobed arch, Kufic script, which was Koutoubia Mosque in Marrakech, the
often used in conjunction with floral decoration, Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca and
the scrolling acanthus-leaf motif and the use of grand monumental gateways each
decorative plasterwork. exemplify this style.
The exterior of the
12th-century Koubba The Koutoubia minaret
Ba’Adiyn dome
The interior of the

Koubba Ba’Adiyn
(see p233) is made The carved decoration of
up of interlaced the Koutoubia minaret (see
pointed arches and pp240–41) consists of an
radiating rosettes. interlacing geometric pattern.
The Merinids (13th–15th C.) The inner façade of the Bou

The Merinids used the same building techniques and mostly Inania Medersa displays a wide
the same architectural forms as those of the preceding range of techniques, ornamental
styles and materials.
period. They were, however, the greatest builders of medersas
(see pp176–7), those peculiarly Moroccan masterpieces of Pyramidal roof of
architecture. They also displayed a remarkable aptitude for green tiles
exquisite architectural ornamentation.
Carved wooden corbels
Carved or
incised plaster
Zellij tilework of coloured
terracotta squares in the Bou
Inania Medersa in Fès depicts Carved wooden
complex geometric patterns. double doors
The Saadians (16th–17th C.)

Morocco’s Saadian rulers gave the country two masterpieces:
the Palais el-Badi (see p239) and the Saadian Tombs (see p238),
both in Marrakech. These embody the Andalusian traditions
that had taken root in Morocco.
Carved wooden corbels

Decorative plasterwork, with
a lattice of floral and geometric
motifs, covers the upper walls
of the mausoleum.
The royal mausoleum, in Marrakech,

is a magnificent building. It was
Slender marble
completed in the 16th century by the
columns sultan Ahmed el-Mansour.
The Alaouites (17th C.–Present Day) The Mausoleum of Moulay

Ismaïl (see pp198–9) is designed
The two great builders of the Alaouite period were Moulay Ismaïl,
in a style similar to that of the
who made Meknès the royal city, and Sidi Mohammed ben
Saadian Tombs.
Abdellah, who founded Essaouira (see pp124–9).
Awning surmounted
Pyramidal roof by a pitched roof
Broken horseshoe arch

with relief decoration
Decorative cladding
The Mausoleum of of carved stone
Mohammed V (see pp80–81),
built in the 1960s, continues Double doors
the Moorish tradition.
The Modern Era

During the French Protectorate, in the early 20th century, Nouvelles
Villes (modern towns) were built outside the medinas, whose
traditional layout (see pp30–31) thus was spared from development.
A Neo-Moorish style evolved in many towns, while Art Deco was
predominant in the city of Casablanca (see p105).
Tile-covered roof Modern zellij tilework The Casablanca Post Office

(1918–20) has a loggia
decorated with zellij
tilework. The interior is
in Art Deco style.
Arched entrance in
the Moorish style
Medinas
Almost all Morocco’s medinas have the same layout. The
typical medina (meaning “town” in Arabic) consists of a densely
packed urban conglomeration enclosed within defensive walls
set with lookout towers. The tangle of narrow winding streets
and countless alleyways turns the layout of a medina into a
labyrinth. The centre of the medina is cut through by wide
avenues running between the main gateways and by other
main streets, which, as a defensive measure, are either angled Hundreds of narrow
or closed off by houses or projecting walls. streets wind through the
medina. Some are no more
than 50 cm (20 in) wide.
The monumental gateway, a fortified entrance

flanked by projecting crenellated towers, leads into
the medina. Bab el-Chorfa in Fès is a particularly
splendid example.
Roof-terrace
The Layout of a Medina

Despite their apparent chaos, medinas
are laid out according to certain set
considerations. The mosque is always
located at the heart. Other features
include the separation of different
religious and ethnic groups,
the distinction between home
and the workplace, and the
location of activities according to
a social and commercial hierarchy.
Every medina is laid out according
to these factors.
Street partly
blocked by a house
Lookout tower
Open-air souks, like the basket souk

in Marrakech, are markets where
specialist crafts and other products
are sold. Souks are also the regular
meeting places of city people and
visiting country-dwellers.
Quarters
The quarters of a medina are no more than loosely defined
areas. A quarter, or hawma, is really just a communal
space consisting of several small
streets and alleyways, and it is
the focus of the inhabitants’
material and spiritual life. Each
quarter has a communal oven,
a hammam (steam bath), a
Koranic school, and a grocer’s
shop, which is always located
in one of the smaller streets. The
shop sells such basic necessities
as vegetables, fruit, oil, coal,
sugar, spices and other foods.
A grocer’s shop in a quarter There are no shops selling luxury
of Fès goods in quarters like these.
The grand mosque

is the central point The patio, or riad, like this one in
of the city. Essaouira, is the focal point of a
building. The rooms are arranged
around the courtyard, which often
contains a fountain.
Sturdy defensive walls

protect the medina.
Craftsmen, like the tanners of Fès, work

together in parts of the medina known as
souk, kissaria or fondouk. Their location, from
The souk for valuable the centre to the periphery, depends on the
items is located next craft’s rarity and its pollution level.
to the mosque.
Workshops in the souks,

like the dyers’ souk in
Marrakech, shown here,
are often tiny. The
craftsman has only just
enough space to make
and sell his products.
32  introducing Morocco
Moroccan Crafts
the custom of producing utilitarian objects that are visually
pleasing and enlivened with decoration is a deeply rooted tradition
among Moroccan artisans. they inject beauty into the humblest
of materials, from leather, wood and clay, to copper and wool. the
importance given to decoration is often so great that it sometimes
takes precedence over the object to which it is applied. the endless
interplay of arabesques, interlacing patterns, beguiling floral motifs
and intricate inscriptions are an integral part of traditional
Moroccan life. Perfume bottle
Leatherwork
Leatherworking has always been a major industry in
Morocco, particularly in Fès, Meknès, Rabat, Salé and
Marrakech. The leather-
workers and tanners of
Marrakech and Fès, whose
numerous workshops fill
the picturesque quarters
Sheepskin binding for the Koran, with of the medina, are those
geometric decoration with the most illustrious
reputation. Tanners first
clean the hide – either sheepskin or goatskin – and then dye
it red, yellow or orange. Gold-leaf decoration may also be
applied. The leatherworkers then fashion the material into
utilitarian or decorative objects such as pouffes, handbags, Sheepskin binding for the Koran with
babouches (slippers) and desk sets. gold-leaf decoration
Woodwork
The traditional craft of woodworking is centred mostly in
Essaouira, Fès, Meknès, Salé, Marrakech and Tetouan. The many
different kinds of wood used by Moroccan woodworkers and
cabinet-makers come from the forests of the Atlas and the Rif.
Cedar and walnut are used mostly by cabinet-makers, who are
highly skilled makers of carved or studded doors, and also in the
construction of wooden ceilings. Ebony and citrus wood are
used for marquetry and veneering. Thuya, with its beautiful
rosewood hue, can be made into elegant furniture and Painted wooden bread box from
decorative objects. Meknès (early 19th century)
Painted cedarwood bridal chest from the Rif (20th century)

Carpets
Carpets are a ubiquitous part of the furnishings of the
Moroccan home (see p336). City-made carpets, woven
mostly in Rabat and Médiouna, are characterized by bright
colours and a pattern consisting of a rectangular field on a
red background, framed by bands of edging and with
geometric motifs. Symmetry is a
central feature of carpets made
in Rabat. Village carpets, which
are either woven or knotted, are
produced in the Middle and
High Atlas, in Marrakech and in
Haouz. They have more
imaginative patterns, such as
animal, plant and architectural
motifs, which the weavers
(mostly women) themselves
devise. Weaving and knotting
techniques vary according to
region, and the various types
of village carpets are referred
to by their place of origin,
such as Middle Atlas, High
Sahraoui woman weaving a carpet Atlas, Haouz or Marrakech. A knotted carpet from Rabat
Pottery
Decorated pottery is an integral part of
everyday domestic life. Jugs, dishes and
bowls are seen in every Moroccan
kitchen and living room. Fès, one of
the most important centres of pottery
production, is renowned
for its pottery – blue and
white and multicoloured
Glazed pottery dish from Fès
on a white base. Safi, whose
(19th century)
pottery industry is more
recent, produces pieces
characterized by shimmering colours. Local
tradition dictates shape, colour, glaze and type of
decoration. Meknès and Salé are two other important Ceramic honey jar with
centres of pottery manufacture. Pottery oil jar floral decoration
Copper and Brass

Copper and brass are metals that
lend themselves to being cut,
hammered, embossed, inlaid
and engraved. The repertoire
of the Moroccan coppersmith
ranges from the humblest
domestic objects to the most
ostentatious, such as inlaid
or panelled doors, trays and
chandeliers. This craft reveals
a highly developed skill and a
love of intricate detail, and
follows an ancient tradition.
Brass door with geometric and other Copper jug from Meknès
decorative motifs (19th century)
The Islamic Faith in Morocco

Morocco’s official religion is the orthodox, or Sunni, sect of
Islam. It is based on the Koran and the Sunna, in which the
words and deeds of the Prophet Mohammed are recorded.
It is this religion, which was introduced to Morocco in the
7th century, that underpins both the country’s law and its
faith. Islam is also the unifying force in the daily life of
every Moroccan, whose duty it is to respect the Five Pillars
of Islam. These are chahada (profession of faith), salat
(prayer), zakat (ritual almsgiving), Ramadan (fasting) and
hadj (the pilgrimage to Mecca). The king of Morocco is
Mohammed VI, King of Morocco,
both the country’s secular and spiritual leader. On his
at prayer. For 1,000 years, each
accession to the throne in 1999, Mohammed VI Moroccan sovereign has borne
strongly reaffirmed this double prerogative. the title “leader of the faithful”.
Ritual ablutions
must be performed
before prayers. The
courtyards of mosques
always contain
fountains and basins,
with hammams
(steam-baths) nearby.
The Islamic faith places
great importance on
personal cleanliness.
Maghrebi calligraphy, characteristic

of North Africa, is derived from the
more austere Kufic script.
Ceramic tiles in geometric

patterns or painted with
religious motifs, carved
plaster and carved
wood are the three Koran in Maghrebi Script
main elements in
the decoration of The Koran, the holy pronouncements
mosques, medersas of Allah dictated to the Prophet
and also of traditional Mohammed, is central to Islamic faith.
Muslim homes. Islamic calligraphy, a major art form in
the Muslim world, is highly stylized and
combines perfect legibility with visual
harmony and colourful illumination.
Dish with three mihrabs (niches)

Calligraphy and religious symbols are
two prominent themes in the traditional
decorative arts of the Muslim world.
Friday Prayers
The five daily prayers (salat)
form part of the five obligations,
or “pillars”, of Islam that are
incumbent on Muslims. The
faithful are required to come
to the mosque for the midday
prayers that are said every Friday.
On this day devoted to Allah
they also hear a sermon delivered
by the khotba, or preacher. The
gathering at Friday prayers
also reinforces the sense of
belonging that Muslims have Muslim prayer beads consist
Muslims leaving a mosque in their community. of a string of 33 or 99 beads
separated by markers. Muslims
use the beads to recite the 99
names or attributes of Allah.
The chapters, or suras, of the Koran

are separated by illuminations.
Daily prayer consists of a series of recitations

and prostrations. Kneeling in rows, on a
strictly egalitarian basis, the faithful face the
direction of Mecca. This direction is called
qibla, and it is symbolized by the mihrab, a
niche in the wall of the mosque. The imam,
who leads the prayers, kneels in front.
Islamic Festivals
The Muslim calendar is based
on the lunar year, which is a
little shorter than the solar
year (see p45). The ninth month,
Ramadan, is a time of fasting.
Aïd el-Fitr, or Aïd es-Seghir, marks
the end of Ramadan, and at
Aïd el-Adha, or Aïd el-Kebir, a
sheep is sacrificed in memory
of the sacrifice of Abraham.
Mouloud commemorates the
Cakes baked for Ramadan birth of the Prophet Mohammed. Sacrificial sheep
The Berbers
two out of every three Moroccans are, in cultural and
linguistic terms, Berber. thought to be the descendants of
people of mixed origins – including oriental, Saharan and
European – the Berbers settled in Morocco at different times,
and they do not make up a homogeneous race. By finding
refuge in mountainous regions, they survived several
successive invasions – those of the civilizations of the
Mediterranean basin, of the Arabs, then, much later, those of
the French and the Spaniards. the Berbers still speak several The fouta is a rectangular
piece of fabric with red
dialects and maintain distinct cultural traditions. they are
and white stripes. It is worn
renowned for their trading activities and for the strength of with a conical straw hat
their tribal and family ties. by women of the Rif.
Young Berber girls

dress in bright colours
and from an early age
wear a headscarf
knotted at the top
of the head, as their
mothers do.
Veils of many colours

cover the women of the
Tiznit region.
Young girls do not

wear veils. Only
when they reach
adulthood do girls
cover their face.
Henna patterns, which Berber women paint on
themselves, give protection against supernatural
forces. Besides keeping evil spirits away, they are
supposed to purify and beautify the wearer.
On feast days, women decorate their hands
and their feet.
The grand souk at the

moussem of Imilchil is
both a social and a
commercial gathering. It The hendira,
is an opportunity for a striped cape
Berbers from all over the woven on a simple
Atlas Mountains to buy loom, is the typical
all that they need for the overgarment worn
year ahead. by Berber women.
The jellaba, an
ankle-length robe Berber Tribes
with long sleeves
Although Berber
and a hood, is tribal structure is
worn over a wide- complex, three
sleeved shirt by groups, each with
Berber men of the their own histories,
Atlas mountains. can be identified.
The turban is The Sanhaja,
also part of nomadic herdsmen
Berber men’s originating from the
traditional attire. south, inhabit the
central and eastern
High Atlas, the
Berber woman in Middle Atlas and the
feast-day dress Rif. They speak the
dialects of the
Tamazight group. The Masmouda, settled
farmers, live mostly in the western High
Atlas and the Anti-Atlas, and they speak
the Chleuh dialect. It was a Masmoudian
tribe that founded the Almohad empire in
the 12th century.
The Zenets are hunters and
herdsmen who came from the East
and settled in eastern Morocco. They
speak the dialect of the Znatiya group.
They founded the Merinid dynasty in
the 13th century.
The situla, a
copper vessel
of distinctive
shape, is used
by the women
of the Igherm
region in the
Anti-Atlas to
fetch water.
Religious Moussems
For Berber women, religious moussems (see
pp42–5) are occasions when they sometimes
travel far from home. This is an opportunity for
them to meet other women, to sing and dance,
and to get away from their everyday chores.
This amber and

silver necklace,
from the Taliouine
region of the Anti- A mule is a prized possession among the
Atlas, is part of the Berbers. It is used as a beast of burden, to carry
attire traditionally worn such heavy loads as fodder, sacks of grain and
on feast days. containers of water.
Horses of Morocco
Two thousand years ago, at the time of the Phoenician,
Carthaginian and Roman invasions, the first horses to be
used in Morocco were cross-bred with Mongolian stock.
The Arab horse was introduced to Morocco by the Arab
conquest in the 7th century and, used in war, it played
an important part in the establishment of Islam here.
Today, owning horses is considered to be a sign of
wealth in rural areas. Horses are shown off at festivals,
especially in the performance of fantasias (displays of
horsemanship), and are also used in daily life.
Tall embroidered leather boots

and loose white short breeches
Mokahlas, long
ceremonial guns, have are worn by riders in a fantasia.
engraved butts inlaid
with mother-of-pearl
and ivory.
Horses’ harnesses, brightly coloured

and made of sumptuous materials, are
produced by skilled and specialized
craftsmen. The severe bit allows the
rider to stop abruptly and steer his
mount deftly. The blinkers protect
the horses’ eyes from sand and smoke.
Studs
There are national studs in
Meknès, El-Jadida, Marrakech,
Oujda and Bouznika. Their
purpose is to promote the
breeding of horses and to
produce horses for racing, for
equestrian sports and for fantasias.
In Morocco today there are
180,000 horses, 550,000 mules
and 1 million donkeys. To encourage
horse-breeding, stallions are made
available to breeders free of
charge to cover their mares. The Barb, a type of horse used by the
On average, 15,000 mares are Thoroughbreds are used Berbers before the arrival of the Arabs,
put to a stallion and 5,000 foals for racing. The racing season is strong, compact and capable of
are registered every year. runs from September to May. covering long distances.
The fantasia saddle,

with typically elaborate
decoration, consists of
a wooden framework
sheathed in goatskin.
It is covered in embroi
dered silk and rests on
several layers of woven
saddlecloths decorated
with pompoms. The
high pommel and back
restraint keep the rider
securely in place.
Large stirrups made of sheet
Fantasias metal or leather are attached to
the saddle by stirrupleathers.
Fantasias are displays of horsemanship that
are performed according to precise rules.
Galloping at full speed down a course 200 m
(650 ft) long, the riders whirl their guns The mule, a robust beast of
in the air and, at a signal from their burden, is more widely
leader, fire them in unison. used than the horse.
Here, its owner
Fantasia horses, perches on a pack
which are at least four saddle made out
years old, are Barb or of thick blankets.
Arabian Barb stallions.
At the moussem of Sidi Abdallah Amghar,

in ElJadida, horses are bathed in the sea at
dawn. Later in the day, in the fierce August
heat, they will perform the galloping charges
of the fantasia.
The Arabian Barb, an agile and robust horse, was The pure-bred Arab was introduced to
produced by crossbreeding Arabs and Barbs in the Morocco in the 7th century. Its elegance and
7th century. It is a saddle horse particularly well suited beauty, as well as its capacity for endurance,
to the fantasia. make it one of the world’s bestloved horses.
Moroccan Dress and Jewellery

traditional dress indicates the wearer’s geographical
origin and social status. Berber women wrap themselves
in rectangular pieces of fabric, secured by a brooch and a
belt, while the men wear a jellaba and a burnous against
the cold. in towns, the elegant kaftan, a long garment with
buttons down the front, has become standard formal wear
for women, who increasingly often dress in the Western
style. Jewellery has long been made by Jewish craftsmen.
Berber jewellery is made of silver, sometimes with the
addition of coral and amber; necklaces, bracelets and Zemmour women of the
Middle Atlas wear a belt in
brooches may simply be decorative, or may be a status
the form of a long plaited
symbol or an heirloom. gold, sometimes inlaid with and twisted cord decorated
precious stones, is the material of city-made jewellery. with pompoms.
Hoodless collar
The shape of the

sleeves and of the
In oases bordering the Sahara, neck-opening varies
women cover their head with a from one kaftan to
large black or white cotton shawl. the next.
On feast days, they bedeck
themselves with all their jewellery.
Berber women, on feast days,

don more elaborate headwear. Silk brocade kaftan made in Fès in
The shape often indicates the 18th–19th century.
the wearer’s status, either
as a married woman or as
an unmarried girl. This golden diadem from Fès
consists of hinged plates
that are decoratively pierced
and set with many
In the High Atlas, precious stones.
capes worn by
women identify
their belonging to
a particular tribe.
Aït Haddiddou
women are
recognizable by Cherbils, velvet slippers
their hendira, a embroidered with gold
cloak made of thread, elegantly curved
woollen cloth with and with pointed toes,
blue, white, black are an essential part of a
and red stripes. woman’s feast-day dress.
For special
occasions, women
may wear a gold or
silver belt. Silver is
most usually worked
by being liquefied and
poured into a mould,
but it may also be
beaten into sheets,
cut to shape, and then
incised or engraved.
In rural areas, older men still

wear a voluminous jellaba with These musicians and
pointed hood. The garment is dancers from the Rif
made of handwoven woollen are wearing their
cloth, which is either of one festival costume. On
colour or with patterned stripes. their head they wear
the traditional orange
and white rezza.
Gold lace
Kaftans
The women’s kaftan, an ankle-length, tunic-
like garment, collarless and with wide sleeves,
is always made of such fine fabric as silk,
satin, velvet or brocade. It is often worn with a
mansourya, a light, transparent overgarment
made of silk that sets off the kaftan. The
garments are secured at the waist by a wide
belt embroidered with silk and gold thread.
Tiny buttons made

of silk or gold thread
are sewn down the
front of the kaftan.
Cotton, silk and velvet kaftan, made in

Salé in the 19th century.
This young bride

wears a kaftan and,
over it, a luxuriant
veil, which is
traditional in Fès.
Coral, amber and

shells, combined
with silver, are
Embroidery, decorating kaftans, belts and strung together to
jellabas, is an integral part of women’s clothing. make attractive
The patterns, such as geometric, floral and necklaces, which
animal motifs, the colours and the materials are worn proudly
used are different in every city. by Berber women.
MOROCCO THROUGH THE YEAR

Muslim feast days, agricultural festivals and More than 600 moussems take place each
moussems (pilgrimage-festivals) punctuate year in Morocco; besides the pilgrimage to
the Moroccan year. Because the Muslim the tomb of a saint, there is a large regional
calendar is lunar, the dates of religious souk, singing and dancing, and sometimes a
festivals are never fixed. After the harvests fantasia. The month of Ramadan is a major
of early summer and during the autumn, religious occasion; then, the inactivity of the
lively festivals at which the local produce is daylight hours, when fasting is required, is
fêted are held in every region of the country. followed by joyful night-time festivities.
Aïcha Gazelles’ Trophy (1

Spring week). An international event
If rainfall is not scarce, spring for women rally drivers, along
in Morocco is a remarkable tracks in the desert regions.
season. In the space of a few
days, the dry ochre earth April
becomes carpeted in flowers of Candle Festival, Salé. At
every hue and the mountain Achoura, 10 days after the
sides are flushed with the pale Muslim New Year, boatmen
green of new barley. The high place candelabras full of flaming
peaks, however, are still covered candles at the Marabout of Sidi
in snow. In the Saharan south, Abdallah ben Hassoun.
spring is much like summer. Marathon des Sables (8 days).
It is already warm enough to Foot race run over 200 km
swim in the Mediterranean (124 miles) in the Saharan
and off the southern south of Morocco.
Atlantic coast. Moussem of the Regraga
(40 days). Pilgrimage that takes
March place in 44 stages, passing Rose Festival at El-Kelaa M’Gouna,
Cotton Festival, Beni Mellal through the provinces of near Ouarzazate
(after the harvest). Essaouira and Safi, in honour
Classic Car Rally (10 days). of the Regraga – descendants town that is the capital of
The itinerary of this international of the Seven Holy Men of rose cultivation (see p276),
rally for cars dating from 1939 Berber history. this festival features folk music
crosses part of Morocco. and dance.
Moussem of Moulay Aissa May International Festival of
ben Driss, AïtAttab (in the Rose Festival (after the rose Sacred Music (1 week), Fès.
Beni Mellal region). Pilgrimage harvest), ElKelaa M’Gouna Concerts every day. Jewish,
to the holy man’s tomb. (near Ouarzazate). Held in the Christian and Sufi religious
music, from Africa, Europe,
America, Asia and the East.
Harley-Davidson Raid (15 days).
HarleyDavidson motorbike rally
through Spain and Morocco.
Crafts Festival, Ouarzazate.
Moussem of Moulay Abdallah
ben Brahim, Ouezzane.
Pilgrimage held in honour
of the holy man who came
to the town in 1727 and
then converted it into a
religious centre.
Moussem of Sidi Mohammed
Ma al-Aïnin, Tan Tan. This
commercial and religious
festival is held in honour of the
founder of the town of Smara,
who was a great hero of the
French Resistance. Events
The Candle Festival at Salé, which takes place at Achoura include a performance of the
MOROCCO THROUGH THE YEAR  43
is also other traditional August

Moroccan music, as well as Honey Festival (between
visiting American and 15 and 20 August), Imouzzer
European jazz groups. des Ida Outanane (north
Cherry Festival (2 days, of Agadir). Celebrations
after the cherry harvest), marking the end of the
Sefrou. Folk performers honey harvest, with folk
take part in this festival, performances and an
which is held in honour of exhibition showcasing
Sefrou’s famous cherries. different kinds of honey, one
Fig Festival (after the fig of the region’s major products.
harvest), Bouhouda, near Moussem of Moulay
Taounate. Abdallah Amghar
Moussem of (1 week), El-Jadida.
Sidi el-Ghazi This major pilgrimage
(last Wednesday features renowned
in June), fantasias and other
Guelmim. entertainments.
Cherry Festival in Sefrou, at the foot of the Sahraouis International
Middle Atlas gather to Cultural Festival,
attend a major Asilah (2 weeks).
guedra, the famous dance of camel market. Music, poetry
the Guelmim region. A fantasia is and painting
Oudaïa Jazz Festival (4 days), also performed. competitions,
Rabat. This jazz festival is named Moussem of discussions with
after the loyal Oudaïa, a tribe of Moulay artists, and other
Arab descent whom Moulay Bousselham. events, including
Ismail entrusted with watching Religious festival, with street performances.
over the town (see p72). music and festivities. Festival of Folk Music,
Mawazine (late May/early Jun), Al-Hoceima.
Rabat. Morocco’s largest world- July Performer at the Moussem of Setti
music festival attracts artists Moussem of Moulay Gnaoua Festival Fatma. Pilgrimage
from all continents. Abdessalam ben and souk in the
Mchich, Tetouan. Thousands Ourika valley, southeast
of people, most of them from of Marrakech.
Summer local tribes, take part in this Moussem of Dar Zhiroun,
In summer the only parts of great pilgrimage to the holy Rabat. Religious festival.
the country that are spared man’s tomb. Moussem of Sidi Ahmed
high temperatures are the Throne Day (30 July). Major (or Sidi Moussa), east of
coasts, which are cooled by celebrations marking the Tiznit. Religious festival in
sea breezes, and the Atlas anniversary of the accession honour of the holy man
mountains. This is not the to power of Mohammed VI and Acrobats’ Festival.
best time to tour the inner in 1999 take place throughout Apple Festival, Imouzzer
countryside or visit inland the country. du Kandar, 38 km (24 miles)
towns and cities. In the Festival Timitar, Agadir. A south of Fès.
Saharan south, the sky festival combining amazigh Moussem of Sidi Daoud,
becomes leaden with the (Berber) and world music. Ouarzazate. Religious
heat, and elsewhere the Moussem of Sidi Mohammed pilgrimage.
medinas are stifling. Despite Laghdal, Tan Tan. Moussem of Sidi Lahcen
this, the start of summer is Religious pilgrimage. ben Ahmed, Sefrou. Festival
marked by many festivals. in honour of the
town’s patron saint,
June who lived during
National Folklore Festival the 18th century.
(10 days), Marrakech. At this Moussem of
festival, in the Palais El-Badia, Sidi Yahya ben
troupes of dancers and Younes, Oujda.
musicians from Morocco and Religious festival
elsewhere bring Moroccan in honour of St
folk traditions to life. John the Baptist,
Gnaoua Festival (4 days), the town’s principal
Essaouira. Gnaoua musicians saint, to whom
perform their distinctive Muslims, Jews and
music at this event. There King Mohammed VI during the celebrations for Throne Day Christians all pray.
Festival of Fantasia Jazz Festival, Tangier.

(early Sep, 4 days), Jazz au Chellah (Sep–Oct),
Meknès. Thousands Rabat. Jazz music within the
of horsemen gather walls of the Chellah Necropolis.
to demonstrate their
skills in fantasias. October
Traditional dances Date Festival (3 days after the
are also performed. date harvest in the groves of the
Marriage Fair (late Sep, Tafilalt), Erfoud. Tafilalt tribes
3 days), Imilchil. Tribal gather, and the souks sell several
gathering of the Aït varieties of dates. Dancers and
Haddidou at which musicians perform in the streets.
betrothals are made, Apple Festival (after the
plus performances of harvest), Midelt.
folk song and dancing. Horse Festival (1 week), Tissa.
Moussem of Moulay Various breeds of horses
Idriss Zerhoun.
Pilgrimage to the
tomb of Moulay Idriss,
founder of the first
dynasty, marked by
Moussem of Moulay Idriss II in Fès major festivities.
Moussem of Moulay
Idriss II (1 week), Fès.
Autumn Processions of craftsmen’s
September and October guilds and brotherhoods to the
are very pleasant months in mausoleum of the city’s founder.
which to explore the Atlas Moussem of Sidi Alla el-Hadj,
mountains, visit the imperial Chefchaouen. Religious festival
cities, or experience the vast held in the hills around the city.
ness of the Moroccan desert, Festival of Volubilis (1 week),
where the heat is then bearable. Meknès. Musicians and dancers
In November, heavy rains can from Morocco and the Arab
sometimes make the wadis world, but also from Europe and
burst their banks and render the United States.
tracks impassable. Moussem of Sidi Ahmed ben
Mansour, Moulay Bousselham.
September Religious festival.
Alegria Festival, Chefchaouen. Moussem of Dar Zhira, Tangier. Date Festival in Erfoud, taking place after
A celebration of art and music. Religious festival. the harvest
Charging horsemen at a fantasia performed at the Horse Festival in Tissa

MOROCCO THROUGH THE YEAR  45
December
International Film Festival (1st
week Dec), Marrakech.
Olive Tree Festival, Rhafsaï
(north of Fès). Agricultural festival.
January
Go-Kart 24-Hour Race, Marrakech.
February
Almond Blossom Festival,
Tafraoute. Marking the short-lived
pink and white almond blossom.
Marrakech Biennale, Marrakech.
Month-long cultural festival.
Almond trees in blossom in the Tafraoute region

Public Holidays
compete and take part in Year’s Day (1Jan).
several shows, and many Winter
Manifesto of Independence
fantasias are performed. The best time to explore Day (11 January).
Walnut Festival, Al Haouz. Morocco’s Saharan region is Labour Day (1 May).
Andalusia–Atlantic Festival in the winter. The days are
(late Oct–early Nov), Essaouira. sunny and the sky is a deep Throne Day (30 July).
blue but the nights are cold. Allegience Day (14 August).
November On the coasts, the temperature King Mohammed VI’s
Moussem of Mohammed remains mild. By contrast, the Birthday and Youth
Bou Nasri, Tamegroute. This valleys of the High Atlas can Day (21 August).
religious festival is held in receive heavy snowfalls and Day of Green March
memory of the great saint, may be inaccessible. In (6 November)
Mohammed Bou Nasri February, the almond trees Independence Day,
(see p273). of the Tafraoute valley are return from exile of King
International Music covered in blossom. Few Mohammed V (18 November)
Festival, Ouarzazate. festivals take place in winter.
Religious Festivals
The dates of Muslim festivals are set according to the lunar calendar of the Hegira (the beginning of the Muslim
era in 622). The Muslim year is 10 or 11 days shorter than that of the Gregorian calendar. Religious festivals also
take place 11 days earlier each year in relation to the Western calendar. Guided by the phases of the moon, the
religious authorities wait until the last moment before deciding on the exact date of each festival.
Moharem: Muslim New Year.
Achoura: traditional almsgiving (zakat) to the poor; presents are also given to children.
Mouloud (Aïd al-Wawlid): anniversary of the birth of the Prophet Mohammed. Many moussems
also take place at the same time as Mouloud, and their dates are therefore different each year. Among
the most important are the moussem of Moulay Brahim, near Marrakech, that of Moulay Abdessalam
ben Mchich, in the north, the moussem of Sidi Mohammed ben Aïssa, of Sidi Ali ben Hamdouch, the
Candle Festival in Salé and the moussem
of Moulay Abdelkader Jilali.
Ramadan: practising Muslims fast for
a month, eating only after sunset.
Aïd es-Seghir (“the small festival”), also
known as Aïd el-Fitr: festival marking the
end of the 30-day fast of Ramadan.
Aïd el-Kebir (“the grand festival”),
also known as Aïd el-Adha: this festival,
taking place 68 days after Aïd es-Seghir,
commemorates the day when, by divine
order, Abraham prepared to sacrifice his
son Isaac, when Allah interceded by
providing a ram in place of the child.
Every household sacrifices a sheep
Souk in the High Atlas with sheep for sale just before Aïd el-Kebir and shares the meat at a family meal.
The Climate of Morocco AgAdir Average

maximum
Bordered by the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, daytime
25/77 25/77
joined to the African continent by the Sahara, and 22/71 temperature
diagonally bisected by the long mountain chain of 18/64 20/68
°C/F
the High and Middle Atlas, Morocco does not have a 16/61 Average
uniform climate. it is cooled by moist northwesterly 12/53 minimum
8/46 daytime
winds and seared by hot, dry southeasterlies such as temperature
the chergui. in summer, conditions are those of a hot
arid zone. in winter, which is very mild except in the Average hours of
mountains, conditions switch to those of a temperate 9.5 8.5 8 hrs 7.5 sunshine per day
hrs hrs hrs
coastal zone. Water is in relatively short supply Average
23 0 24 36
everywhere and agriculture, involving about 40 per mm mm mm mm monthly rainfall
cent of the economically active population, is acutely month Apr Jul Oct Jan Safi
dependent on adequate rainfall.
Essaouira
Agadir
Tiznit
Tafraoute
Guelmim
Tan Tan
Landscape in the arid, mountainous Anti-Atlas region

Laayoune
Climate Zones
Moist mountainous region: the
Rif has the highest precipitation;
rainfall is heaviest in the north
and lightest in the south.
Atlantic region: mild winters
and temperate summers; the
dry season lengthens towards
the south.
Eastern region: very light
rainfall here, protected by
the high mountains; hot,
dry summer conditions.
Pre-Saharan and Saharan
regions: rainfall becomes
increasingly light and irregular;
contrasts in temperature
are more marked, with
relatively cool winters and
scorching summers.
Moist northwesterly winds.
Dry, hot southwesterly winds.
0 km 100
0 miles 100
Nouadhibou
MoRoCCo thRough the yeaR  47
Tangier
Tetouan tangier
Al-Hoceima Melilla 28/82
Larache
24/75
Chefchaouen
°C/F 19/66 19/66
Oujda
16/61 16/61
Rabat Meknès Fès 11/52
Taza
6/13
Casablanca
Ifrane
8.5 11 7.5 5.5
hrs hrs hrs hrs
El-Jadida
58 2 56 71
Beni Midelt mm mm mm mm
Mellal Figuig month Apr Jul Oct Jan
Er-
Rachidia
Marrakech the mountain range intensifies
the climatic contrast between the
Erfoud western Atlantic seaboard on the
Asni one hand, and the eastern pre-
Ouarzazate Saharan area on the other.
Zagora
caSablanca ifrane fÈS

25/77 31/88 34/93
23/73 24/75
20/68
20/68 18/64
°C/F 19/66 °C/F °C/F
17/62 16/31
14/57
12/53 18/64
15/59 11/52
11/52 8/46
9/48
8/46 3/37
5/11
3/37
–5/23
8.5
hrs
10
hrs
7.5 6 hrs
hrs
8 hrs 11
hrs
7 hrs 5 hrs 8 hrs 12
hrs
8 hrs 5 hrs
33 1 25 56 115 8 135 11 61 1.5 50 45

mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
marrakech
37/98
27/80
24/75
°C/F
21/70
18/64
15/59
12/53
7/44
8.5 11 8 hrs 7 hrs

hrs hrs
24 1.5 16.5 30
mm mm mm mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan

Oasis with palm trees near Tafraoute, in the Anti-Atlas
introducing Morocco  49
THE HISTORY OF
MOROCCO
Morocco is an ancient kingdom. it came under the influence of carthage and
rome, but its origins are Berber, Arab and African. Since the arrival of islam in
the 7th century, the country has been an independent power, and at times an
empire. the only Arab country not to have fallen to the ottomans, it entered
the modern era under the Alaouite dynasty at the end of the colonial period.
For 40,000 years Morocco has been a In 25 BC, the kingdom of Mauretania
bridge between the East, Africa and was entrusted to Juba II, king of
Europe. Archaeological finds and rock Numidia. A Berber ruler who had been
engravings prove that it was settled Romanized and educated, he married
in the remote past. but little is known the daughter of Antony and Cleopatra.
of the first Berbers, who may have Ptolemy, Juba’s son and heir, was
come from the east. murdered in AD 40 on the orders of
The Phoenicians, fearless navigators, Emperor Caligula. Emperor Claudius
established trading posts – such as later annexed the kingdom, dividing
Russaddir (Melilla) and Lixus (Larache) – it into Mauretania Caesariensis (west
along the Moroccan coast. They also Algeria) and Mauretania Tingitana
introduced iron-working and the (Morocco). The Romans established
cultivation of vines. few new towns here, but developed
In the 5th century BC, Hanno, a the existing ones, among them Tangier,
naval commander from Carthage Volubilis, Lixus, Banasa, Sala and
(in modern Tunisia), set out to explore Thamusida. The southern frontier
the Atlantic coast westwards, and lay at the level of Rabat. In the 3rd
soon the trading posts were taken century, however, Christianity began
over and developed by Carthage. to spread and Roman domination
Under their influence, the Berber was severely diminished.
tribes eventually joined forces The Vandals, whose king Genseric
and established the kingdom (428–77) conquered North Africa,
of Mauretania. followed by the Byzantines, maintained
In 146 BC, having destroyed a lasting presence only at a few
Carthage, the Romans extended their points along the Mediterranean coast.
control westwards over the northern Religious unrest and local uprisings
half of Morocco. Emperor Augustus gradually extinguished the hold of all
made Tingis (Tangier) a Roman city. the ancient civilizations.
c.400 BC Berber tribes 430–533

c.1000 BC Arrival unite to establish 46 BC Numidia Vandals 6th century
of the Phoenicians the kingdom becomes a conquer Byzantine
of Mauretania Roman province North Africa domination
8000 BC 4000 BC AD 1
8000–7000 BC Ancestors of
the Berbers arrive from the c.800 BC 201 BC End of the Second
east. They domesticate the Foundation Punic War. Rome destroys
horse and use iron of Carthage Carthage in 146 BC
A Moor and a
Christian in combat
The Sultan Moulay Abderrahman Leaving Meknès, by Eugène Delacroix

The Idrissid Dynasty (789–926)

Meanwhile, Islam divided itself into
two main sects: Sunni and Shia. In
786, the Sunnite Umayyad caliph
crushed the Shi’ite Muslims. One of
them, Idriss ibn Abdallah, escaped
the massacre and was received in
Morocco as a prestigious religious
Pages from the Koran in the Maghrebi Kufic script of North Africa leader. In 789, the Aouraba, a Berber
tribe in Volubilis, made him their leader.
Arrival of Islam Idriss I carved out a small kingdom, and
From the end of the 7th century, a set about building a new city, Fès. He died
new set of invaders, and with them soon afterwards, probably poisoned by an
a new religion, began to make its mark envoy of the caliph. His son, Idriss II (793–
on Morocco. The Arabs had started to 828), succeeded him and made Fès the
expand their rule westwards, and in 681 Idrissid capital. The Idrissids are considered
there was a first attempt into Morocco. to be the founding dynasty and the first of
But the true conqueror of Morocco Morocco’s seven ruling dynasties.
was Moussa ibn Nosaïr, who, active from Fès soon became densely populated
705, brought the territory from Tangier and a prestigious religious centre. At the
to the Draa valley under the control of death of Idriss II, the kingdom was divided
the Umayyad caliph in Damascus. between his two sons, then between
With some resistance, Islam was their descendants. They were unable to
introduced to the Berber population. prevent the simultaneous attacks of the
Quickly rallying a mainly Berber army, two powerful rivals of the Abbassid caliph,
Moussa then turned his attention to the Shi’ites of Tunisia and Egypt, and the
Europe, initiating the conquest of Umayyad caliphs of Córdoba in Andalusia –
Spain in 711. Sunnis who for long fought over Fès
Reacting against their haughty Arab and the allegiance of the Berber tribes.
overlords, the Berbers of the Maghreb
rebelled against them and, usually but The Almoravids (1062–1147)
not always, against Islam. Battles with An unexpected push came from the south. A
troops sent from the East continued tribe of nomadic Sanhadja Berbers, based
for more than 30 years, from in present-day Mauritania and
739 to 772. Petty kingdoms converts to Islam in the
were formed and the 9th century, were to
western Maghreb give rise to a powerful
kept the power of new empire. The
the caliphs at bay. Fountain in the 9th-century Karaouiyine Mosque in Fès tribe’s headman, Yahia
711 Muslim Berbers under Tariq ibn

Karaouiyine Mosque, the first
Ziyad fight the Visigoths at Guadalete, centre of learning in Morocco
681–84 Sidi Oqba starting the conquest of Spain 793–828 859 Work on the
ibn Nafi raids as far Reign of Karaouiyine Mosque
as the Atlantic coast Idriss II in Fès begins
680 750 820 890
789 Idriss I founds Fès

705 Moussa ibn Nosaïr and establishes the first
conquers Morocco. Spreading Moroccan dynasty
of Islam among Berbers
THE HISTORY OF MOROCCO  51
of the Faithful. Having founded Marrakech,

which became Morocco’s second capital, in
1062, he conquered the country as far north
as Tangier and in 1082 as far east as Algiers.
In Al-Andalus (Andalusia), the fall of the
Umayyad caliphate of Córdoba in 1031 led
to the creation of taifas, small Muslim
principalities. Alfonso VI, King of Castile and
León, led the Christian Reconquest, taking
Toledo in 1085. In response to a call for aid
from the taifas, Youssef ibn Tachfin crossed
the strait and routed Alfonso VI’s forces at the
Battle of Badajoz in 1086. He soon extended
his empire as far north as Barcelona. In the
south, Almoravid influence stretched to the
Senegal and the Niger (1076).
Remains of the Koubba Ba’Adiyn in Marrakech (see p233) The empire was unified by the orthodox,
Sunni branch of Islam. On the death of
ibn Ibrahim, invited a holy man to preach Youssef ben Tachfine, his son Ali, whose
the Islamic faith to his people. A fortified mother was an Andalusian Christian,
camp, or ribat, was built on the estuary of the succeeded him. During his long reign
Senegal river. In 1054, “the people of the ribat” (1107–43) the refined culture of Andalusia
(the al Mourabitoun, or Almoravids), fighters took hold in Morocco, although the empire
for a pure Islamic state, launched a holy war itself was in decline. More Andalusian
northward as far as the Atlas. The founder of than Moroccan, the last Almoravids fled
the Almoravid empire was Youssef ibn Tachfin to Spain to escape a new rebellion from
(1061–1107), who proclaimed himself Leader the south, that of the Almohads.
Carved wooden lintel from a mosque in Marrakech, dating from the 9th century
929 Abderrahman III 1062 Youssef ibn Tachfin 1086 Spanish king Alfonso VI is
establishes an independent founds Marrakech and starts to defeated at Badajoz. The Reconquest
caliphate in Córdoba expand his Almoravid empire is temporarily halted
960 1030 1100
1107–43 Andalusian
1010 Berbers sack culture takes root during
Abderrahman’s palace at Zellij tilework in the Palais the reign of Ali ben Youssef
Medina Azahara, Córdoba du Glaoui, Marrakech
Morocco and Al-Andalus

For almost eight centuries – from 711, when Tariq
ibn Ziyad and his Berber forces crossed the Straits
of Gibraltar to reach Spain, to the fall of the Nasrid
kingdom of Granada in 1492 – the Iberian peninsula
was partly under Muslim control. Muslim territory,
known as Al-Andalus (the Land of the Vandals),
was at times a melting pot of Muslims, Jews and
Mozarabs (Christians adopting an Islamic lifestyle), A love of gardens was one aspect of the cultured
philosophers, traders, scientists and poets. This civilization of Al-Andalus
gave birth to the most illustrious civilization of
the late Middle Ages. The Giralda, the
clocktower of Seville
Cathedral, added in
the 16th century.
The minaret of the Great Mosque

in Seville, transformed after the
Christian Reconquest into the
famous Giralda.
Irrigation
Under the Umayyad caliphs and their Berber successors,
irrigation in Andalusia underwent a dramatic advance.
The introduction of the noria, a waterwheel for the
mechanical extraction of water – shown here in an
illuminated manuscript – was to change, permanently,
the method of water distribution in Spain.
The minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque, in

Marrakech, which was begun in 1162, was
the model for those that the Almohads built
later in Andalusia.
c.1184 1172–1198
Averroës
One of the greatest Islamic thinkers, and
a protégé of the Almohad rulers, Averroës
was born in Córdoba in 1126 and died in
Marrakech in 1198 (see p233).
Judaism in Morocco
Inscriptions in Hebrew dating from the Roman period show that there has
been a Jewish community in Morocco since antiquity. It was involved chiefly
in agriculture, stock-farming and trade. Judaism flourished thanks to the
conversion of the Berber tribes and to the immigration of Jews fleeing from
the east and from Spain. When Fès was founded, a Jewish community settled
there, and scholars and rabbis travelled throughout the country. Although
strictures imposed by the Almoravids and Almohads caused some Jews to
emigrate, they flourished once again under the Merinids and Wattasids, who
welcomed thousands of Jews expelled from Spain after 1492. The Alaouite
sultans also protected them. Although their numbers are reduced, Jews hold Bronze Hanukkah lamp,
certain influential positions in Morocco today. 19th century
Minarets
After the end of the independent
Cordoban caliphate, Almoravids
and Almohads directly controlled
Al-Andalus, where their monu-
mental architecture flourished.
The architectural heritage of
Al-Andalus, above all of religious
architecture, is a clear expression
of Andalusian culture. The striking
similarity between the minarets
of the three mosques built by the
Almohads in Marrakech, Rabat
and Seville demonstrates the unity
of the Almohad architectural style.
The Battle of Higueruela

Reconstruction of the This 15th-century fresco depicts an
unfinished part of the episode in the Reconquest, a centuries-
Hassan Tower. long struggle between Muslim rulers
and Christians for control of Spain.
King Boabdil’s Farewell

Painted by the Orientalist Alfred
Dehodencq (1822–82), this
famous scene from Spanish
history is redolent with nostalgia
but is probably spurious. It depicts
the fall of the last Moorish kingdom
in Andalusia, that of the Nasrids of
Granada, in 1492. Al-Andalus was
c. 1195 to acquire a mythical aura in the
minds of the Moorish communities
who fled the Iberian peninsula
The Hassan Tower
in Rabat, a colossal during the Reconquest. In
project and an over- architecture, daily life, cuisine,
ambitious undertaking, music and vocabulary, Andalusian
was never completed. culture lives on in Moroccan
towns and cities to this day.
The Almohads and the Apogee of dynasties. With such thinkers as Ibn Tufaïl
the Western Muslim Empire and Averroës (see p233), intellectual life
In 1125, after a life devoted to study and to flourished. In 1162, Abd el-Moumen, founder
travelling in the Muslim world, Ibn Toumart, of the Almohad dynasty, proclaimed himself
a Berber man of letters, settled in Tin Mal, a caliph. The dynasty was at its peak during his
narrow valley in the High Atlas. A religious reign, and that of his grandson Yacoub
puritan driven by the doctrine of unity, he el-Mansour (“the Victorious”, 1184–99).
declared himself the mahdi (messiah) and, But over the following decades the dynasty
in opposition to the declined. The combined forces of the Spanish
increasingly decadent Christian princes inflicted a heavy defeat on
Almoravids, began Mohammed el-Nasser at the Battle of Las
preaching moral Navas de Tolosa. With the fall of Córdoba in
reform. On his death, 1236 and of Seville in 1248, the Muslims lost
his successor Abd Spain, with only the small Nasrid kingdom
el-Moumen assumed of Granada surviving until 1492. The last
the title of Leader of Almohad sultans, who were reduced to the
the Faithful. In 1146–7 Maghreb, were challenged by dissidents:
Mihrab of the mosque at Tin he took control of the the Hafsids – Almohads who established
Mal, birthplace of the Almohads main cities of the their own dynasty (1228–1574) in Tunisia
Almoravid empire, and western Algeria – and
including Marrakech, Fès and the great the Abdelwadid Berbers
cities of Al-Andalus. Now the leader of the in Tlemcen in 1236.
greatest empire that ever existed in the In the south, the
Muslim west, he went about centralizing Almohads lost control
it and reorganizing its army, administration of Saharan trade routes,
and economy. He imposed taxes and land while at the very heart of Carved wooden
surveys, created a navy, founded universities the kingdom, the Merinids, Merinid chest
and enlisted the support of the great Arab the Almohads’ Berber allies
of the high plateaux, defied their authority.
The cycle is described by the great Maghrebi
historian Ibn Khaldoun (see p185), in which
over the centuries simple nomads wrench
power from corrupt city-dwellers, who are
themselves overthrown, and it begins again.
The age of the Almohads, a period of
unequalled splendour, has left a lasting
impression on Morocco: a form of Islam that
is both spiritual and precisely defined, a
An engraving showing the 1212 Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa makhzen (central power) to control tribal
1130–63 Abd el-Moumen, 1212 Alfonso VIII of

the first Almohad caliph, Castile defeats 1248–86 Abou Yahia, followed by
conquers the Maghreb Mohammed el-Nasser Abou Youssef Yacoub, establishes
as far as Tripoli at Las Navas de Tolosa the Merinid dynasty
1120 1180 1240 1300
1212–69 Decline of Standard captured

1125 The mahdi 1195 Yacoub the Almohad dynasty; from the Muslims
Ibn Toumart el-Mansour defeats gradual loss of territories at the Battle of Las
settles in Tin Mal the Castilians at Alarcos in Al-Andalus Navas de Tolosa
self-determination, and a great urban

Geography
Moorish civilization that is still in evidence.
Geography was
a favourite
The Merinids (1248–1465) discipline with
Under the Merinids, Morocco was gradually Arabs in the
early Middle
reduced to the territory that it covers today. Ages. Ibn
Unsuccessful on the battlefield, the Merinids Battuta (c.1300–
c.1370), who
were, however, inspired builders, and during was born in
their rule a brilliant urban civilization came Tangier and
into being. Led by Abou Yahia, these Zenet studied in
Damascus, Map by the cartographer Al Idrissi
Berber nomads took control of the major took the art (1099–1166), born in Ceuta, who put
cities and fertile plains from 1248, although of the rihla – together one of the first geographic
it was not until 1269 that they conquered encyclopedic accounts of the known world
travel writing –
Marrakech, thus putting an end to the to its height. Towards the end of his life he
Almohad dynasty. Fès, which had been dictated an entertaining account of his travels
over almost 30 years. He visited the holy cities
made capital by Abou Yacoub Youssef, of Arabia, was a minister in the Maldives, a
experienced a new phase of expansion. merchant in India and China, and explored
Despite some minor victories, the Merinids Indonesia and the Persian Gulf. Having returned
to the Maghreb, he travelled through the
were unsuccessful in their attempts to kingdoms of sub-Saharan Africa.
reconquer territory on the Iberian peninsula.
In 1415, the Portuguese, led by Henry the
Navigator, took Ceuta. However, Abou their authority, and the Wattasids, another
el-Hassan (the “Black Sultan”) managed to Zenet Berber dynasty, started taking over
re-establish temporary order and unity in the power from 1420 and ruled solely from
Maghreb. He and his successor, Abou Inan, 1465–1549. With the 15th century began
were great rulers and great builders. But the slow decline of Moroccan power:
crises of succession gradually undermined fortune now favoured the Europeans.
Tapestry depicting the fall of Ceuta to the Portuguese in 1415
1331–49 The Merinid period 1415 Henry the Navigator Tiled panel
reaches its peak under Abou wins Ceuta for Portugal depicting the
el-Hassan conquest of Ceuta
1360 1420 1480
1497–1508 After
1349–58 Reign 1420 The Merinids 1465 The Wattasids the fall of Granada
of Abou Inan, a come under the control oust the Merinids to the Christians, the
great builder of the Wattasids permanently Spanish move into
northern Morocco
The Two Shorfa Dynasties rather than the Maghreb. The

Since the time of Idriss I, the shorfa Ottomans had Mohammed
(the plural form of sherif ) – Arabs assassinated in 1557, but did
of high social standing who are not conquer Morocco.
descendants of the Prophet The Saadians traded with Europe
Mohammed – have always played and drew up treaties with
an important part in the social and England and the Netherlands.
political life of Morocco. Putting an A gold dinar, proof of From the Moriscos, the last
end to Berber rule, they emerged Saadian prosperity Spanish Muslims, they received
from the south and governed Morocco the final heritage of Al-Andalus.
from the 16th century to the present day. Once the Saadians had retaken Agadir
Because of their social origins, these two final (1541), only Mazagan (El-Jadida), Tangier
dynasties, the Saadians and the Alaouites, are and Ceuta remained in Portuguese
known as the Shorfa dynasties. hands. Portugal’s “Moroccan dream” was
extinguished at the Battle of the Three Kings
Saadian Prosperity (1525–1659) in 1578, when two rival Saadian sultans and
At the beginning of the 16th century, the Dom Sebastião, the young king of Portugal,
encroachment of Christian armies all died at Ksar el-Kebir (see p96).
on Moroccan soil stimulated a His uncle, Philip II of Spain, swiftly
vigorous renewal of religious annexed the Portuguese kingdom.
fervour. From 1509, supporters of Saadian prosperity culminated
the movement of resistance against with Ahmed el-Mansour, (1578–
the Europeans found a leader in 1603) whose conquests secured
El-Kaïm, sherif of the Beni Saad, an control of Saharan trade, and who
Arab tribe from the Draa valley. set up the makhzen (a central
Boldly leading the campaign for Dom Sebastião, the young administration). Gold from Mali and
the reconquest of the Portuguese king killed in battle in slaves reached Marrakech. Political
Morocco in 1578
enclaves and for the seizure of and religious links with western
power, they took control of the Africa, and the presence of African
Souss, of Marrakech (1525), which was to folk culture brought here by slaves, made a
become their capital, and of Fès (1548), mark on Morocco that can still be seen today.
ousting the last Wattasid sultans. Like their preceding dynasties, the
The Saadians stepped onto the stage of Saadians declined as the result of ambition
international relations; in 1577, France even and disputed succession. In the distant
appointed a Moroccan consul. To help Tafilalt, the ascetic shorfa, descendants of
counter the threat of the Turks, who had Ali, cousin of the Prophet, revolted against
settled in Algiers, Mohammed ech-Cheikh the decadence of Saadian rule under
requested the support of Madrid, whose Moulay Sherif, and seized control of the
attention was then focused on the Americas region, which they held until 1664.
1525 The Saadians take 1578–1603 Reign of 1631–36 Moulay 1664–72 Reign of
Marrakech, which becomes Ahmed el-Mansour, Sherif, in the Tafilalt, Moulay Rachid,
their capital “the Golden One” rebels against founder of the
Saadian decadence Alaouite dynasty
1500 1570 1640
1672–1727 The
1509 The Saadians begin 1636–64 Reign Alaouites reach
their campaign to expel 1578 Battle of of Moulay the peak of their
the Europeans the Three Kings Mohammed power under
Moulay Ismaïl Moulay Ismaïl
Portal of the Saadian Tombs
Alaouite Greatness Mazagan and founded

and External Threats Mogador (Essaouira) to
The Alaouite dynasty, facilitate trade with Europe.
the seventh and present Under Moulay Yazid and
ruling dynasty, has given Moulay Sliman, epidemics,
the country some rulers uprisings and diplomatic
of great stature. During isolation caused the
its long reign, each country to withdraw
ruler concentrated on into itself. Moulay
bringing stability to A painting by Eugène Delacroix depicting Abderrahman, another
the country and on Sultan Moulay Abderrahman leaving his palace great ruler, attempted to
at Meknès, surrounded by his guard and his
countering the threat principal officers
modernize the country,
of imperialist powers. It but was frustrated by
took ten years for Moulay Rachid (1664–72), European colonial expansion. He was
founder of the dynasty, to bring the country defeated by the French at Isly in 1844.
under his control. The long and glorious Moulay Abderrahman and his successors,
reign of his younger brother, Moulay Ismaïl Mohammed IV and Hassan I, were forced
(1672–1727), marked Morocco’s final apogee to concede commercial and consular
(see pp58–9). He transferred the capital from privileges to Britain, France and Spain. In
Fès to Meknès, imposed central authority 1860, Spain took control of Tetouan. Hassan
in the remotest corners of the country, I, a dynamic ruler, attempted to balance
recaptured Mehdya, Tangier and Larache the influence of these rivals, but the
from the Europeans, and maintained Conference of Madrid of 1880 sanctioned
relations with the courts of Europe. the intervention of foreign powers in
After a period of instability, his grandson, Morocco. On his death, the country was
Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah, restored stable and the dynasty’s prestige intact,
order, expelled the Portuguese from but Morocco was weakened.
French victory at the Battle of Isly, near Oujda, in 1844, depicted by the French painter Horace Vernet
1873–93 Moulay 1894–1908 Reign of

1728–57 Reign of 1792–1822 Reign of Hassan I attempts to Moulay Abdelaziz and
Moulay Abdallah Moulay Sliman, the Pious repulse the French regency of Ba Ahmed
1710 1780 1850
1757–90 Rule of Sidi

Mohammed ben
Abdallah who 1822–59 Reign 1859–73 Reign 1907–12
establishes his capital of Moulay of Moulay Reign of
in Rabat Abderrahman Mohammed IV Sultan Moulay Hafidh Moulay Hafidh
58  InTRoducInG MoRocco
The Great Age of Moulay Ismaïl

Moulay Ismaïl, of partial Saharan parentage and a man of
phenomenal vitality, stamped his authority on Morocco during
a long and brilliant reign. Ruling for 55 years (1672–1727), he
was a contemporary of Louis XIV. He made Meknès his capital
and maintained a powerful army, recruited tens of thousands
of men for the Black Guard, and modernized the artillery.
With these forces, he was able to overcome rebellious tribes
and bring temporary peace to the country. He wrenched from
European control several fortresses, including Tangier and
Larache. He also exchanged ambassadors with the French court.
Sultan Moulay Ismaïl
The capital of He was the greatest,
Moulay Ismaïl
most ruthless ruler of
in 1693.
the Alaouite dynasty.
Morocco’s Ambassador in Paris (1682)

In conflict with Spain, Moulay Ismaïl sought
an alliance with France in order to vanquish the
fortresses that Spain held in Morocco. Once in
France, the sultan’s ambassador, Hadj Tenim,
concluded a treaty of Franco-Moroccan friendship
in 1682. Morocco then became an important
trading partner for European countries.
Moulay Ismaïl’s retinue
Black Guard
Moulay Ismaïl greatly expanded the army, which
consisted of three contingents: units provided by the
tribes, Christian renegades and abid, black slaves and
mercenaries, whose exclusive duty was to protect the
sultan. This latter regiment led to the formation of the
famous Black Guard, which still exists.
the history of morocco  59
Anne Marie de Bourbon The Architectural Heritage of

So as to strengthen Moulay Ismaïl
his links with Europe,
Moulay Ismaïl sent a Moulay Ismaïl’s achievements as a builder are
request to Louis XIV for most clearly seen in Meknès. This was formerly
the hand of the princess, a small town overshadowed by the prestigious
the French king’s cousin, city of Fès, but the sultan transformed it into
in marriage. His request Morocco’s fourth imperial city. It was enclosed
was not granted. by a double line of defensive walls and was
described by some as the Versailles of Morocco.
Next to the medina, the sultan built a kasbah, an
extensive architectural complex enclosed within
its own walls. This was the seat of power and of
administration, consisting of several palaces,
mosques, garrisons and studs, cisterns and stores
for water. It was the ideal imperial city.
Chevalier de Saint-Olon
Large-scale
building projects
undertaken by
Moulay Ismaïl, such
as the Dar el-Ma,
shown here (see
p197), called for an
army of craftsmen.
These were recruited
from other tribes,
Christian prisoners
and slaves.
Contemporary
writers record that the cruel sultan supervised
the work himself, passing a death sentence
on the slowest workers.
Bab el- Berdaïne,

the Gate of the
Pack-Saddle-
Makers (see p192),
takes its name
from the pack-
saddle market
held nearby. In the 17th century,
Meknès was enclosed by triple walls
with imposing gates.
Audience Given by Moulay Ismaïl

As depicted in this painting in the Palace of
Versailles by M. P. Denis (1663–1742), Louis XIV,
the Sun King, sent an ambassador to Meknès
in 1689. The ambassador, the Chevalier The Sultan’s Mausoleum
François Pidou de Saint-Olon, was received (see pp198–9), which was built in the
with full honours. For 20 years, Louis XIV and 17th century, was completely restored by
Moulay Ismaïl exchanged embassies, but Mohammed V in 1959. The clocks in the
relations between them soured when France burial chamber were presented as gifts
declined to engage in conflict with Spain. by Louis XIV.
year, Abdel Aziz was deposed

by his brother Moulay Hafidh, who
attempted to resist but was forced
to yield. Numerous uprisings led the
French to impose a protectorate,
through the Treaty of Fès in 1912.
Moulay Hafidh was then replaced
by his half-brother, Moulay Youssef.
What was called “pacification” at
the time continued until 1934: it took
Marshal Lyautey, Morocco’s first resident-general, with Moulay Youssef French forces 22 years to bring the
whole country under control. In the
European Domination Rif, a state of war persisted up until 1926. Abd
When Moulay Abdel Aziz, a weak ruler, el-Krim Khattabi, a brilliant strategist and
ascended the throne in 1894, France already organizer, defeated the Spanish at Anoual in
had an imperial presence in Algeria and 1921, proclaimed a republic in 1922, and long
Tunisia. The French now aimed to secure a held out against the forces of the Spanish and
free hand in Morocco, parallel with Britain’s French colonial powers, led by Francisco
designs in Egypt and those of Italy in Libya. Franco and Philippe Pétain respectively. He left
After controversial fiscal reform, Moulay the country and died in exile in Cairo in 1963.
Abdel Aziz entered into heavy debt with Marshal Hubert Lyautey, an exceptional
France. Meanwhile, the French military man who was made France’s first resident-
administration in Algeria gradually pushed general in Morocco in 1912, played a
back the frontier with Morocco, which was decisive role in the imposition of French
to lead to a long drawn-out conflict. When rule. He installed the capital in Rabat, and
Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany arrived in worked to promote the country’s economic
Tangier in March 1905 to claim his share, development, but firmly refused to consider
the “Moroccan question” took on another assimilation, a process by which colonies
dimension. The Conference of Algeciras were modelled on the mother country.
of 1906, in which all the interested The country’s traditional infrastructure
powers took part, forcibly opened was left intact and town planners
Morocco to international trade, safeguarded the imperial cities.
and assigned France and Spain On the death of Moulay Youssef
as administrators. in 1927, his third son, Sidi
In 1907, various incidents Mohammed ben Youssef, who
provided the French forces was then 18, succeeded him,
with the pretext to taking the name Mohammed V.
move into Oujda and Abd el-Krim Khattabi, heroic leader of an He was to restore the country’s
Casablanca. In the same ephemeral Rifian republic independence.
1912 Protectorate 1921–26 Revolt 1930 France

Sultan
agreement is signed at Moulay in the Rif imposes the
the Treaty of Fès Youssef Berber dahir
1910 1920 1930
1912–27 Reign of
Moulay Youssef, Marshal Pétain 1927 Start of the reign
1911 French troops who deposed his received by Marshal of the sultan Mohammed
enter Fès half-brother Lyautey in Rabat ben Youssef, the future
in 1925 Mohammed V
the history of moroCCo  61
The Fight for Istiqlal the rebellion of El-Glaoui, the pasha

Morocco was divided into two of Marrakech (see p257). The sultan
zones: a French zone, covering refused to abdicate but the
the largest part of the country, French deposed him in 1953,
and a Spanish zone, in the replacing him with the elderly
north and south. Tangier was Ben Arafa. The royal family were
an international free city. forced into exile but the fight for
The French Protectorate independence gained momentum.
was both beneficial and International opinion no longer
detrimental to Morocco. The supported the colonial powers,
country’s infrastructure was 1930s building, Casablanca, dating and the United Nations took
modernized, its mineral from the Protectorate over the Moroccan question.
resources were exploited After negotiations with France, the
and the most fertile land turned over to deposed sultan made his triumphant return
agriculture. The population of Casablanca, from exile as King Mohammed V, with
the economic capital, doubled every ten Hassan, the heir apparent, at his side. The
years, and the city became a major port. Protectorate ended in 1956, and in 1958
The administration of Lyautey’s 13 Tangier and the Spanish enclave of Tarfaya
successors, however, was increasingly were restored to the kingdom. Independence
direct, so that the role of the local makhzen had been won, although national unity
became redundant. Colonial ideology was still to be achieved.
triumphed in the 1930s. When France
imposed a Berber dahir, giving Berber
areas a separate legal system, the effect
was to divide the country.
World War II justified the Moroccan
people’s desire for freedom. In 1942, the
Allies arrived in Morocco and President
Roosevelt pledged the sultan his support.
Showing a progressively higher profile,
Mohammed V drew a following of young
nationalists, who set up the Istiqlal
(Independence) Party. The Manifesto
of Independence called on the sultan to
head a movement for independence, a
challenge that he formally accepted in
a speech in Tangier in 1947. The power
struggle with Paris lasted almost a decade.
In 1951, the French authorities supported Mohammed V and his son, the future king, Hassan II, in 1955
The Glaoui kasbah at Telouet

1943 The sultan 1951 France supports 1955 The royal
meets US President the rebellion of family returns
Roosevelt at the El-Glaoui, pasha of from exile
Anfa Conference Marrakech
1940 1950
1934 Allal el-Fassi 1953 France deposes 1958 Tangier and the
sets up the 1944 Publication Sultan Mohammed V, Spanish enclave of
Moroccan Action of the Manifesto who goes into exile Tarfaya are returned
Committee of Independence in Madagascar to Morocco
(albeit in a tightly controlled form) and

relative economic liberalism, choices that
were decisive for its future. In 1958, having
broken away from Istiqlal, the progressive
wing of the nationalist movement founded
a left-wing party – the Union Nationale des
Forces Populaires, the future USFP – with
Abderrahim Bouabid and Mehdi Ben Barka.
The king also had to contend with the
impatience of nationalist sentiment, which
The future Hassan II, in 1957, with Allal el-Fassi, the founder of Istiqlal believed that the country should engage
in armed conflict to regain all Saharan
Political and Social Change in territory and that it should give military aid
Contemporary Morocco to Algeria, which was still fighting its war
In the rest of the Arab world monarchies for independence.
were replaced by authoritarian republican Mohammed V died suddenly, after an
regimes (as in Iraq, Egypt, Yemen and operation, in 1961. His eldest son, Moulay
Tunisia). In Morocco, however, Mohammed Hassan, who had been closely associated
V’s patriotic sentiment united the country with power for many years, succeeded him
behind a monarchy that has long- as Hassan II. A skilled politician, he was to
established roots and that ensures its witness political as well as social change in
unity and stability. A pious and outward- his country, in the course of a reign lasting
looking Muslim, the king encouraged the 38 years. It was, however, often marked by
emancipation of women, the education unrest and mixed success.
of his people, and agrarian reform. During On the international front, Hassan II
this period, Morocco, unlike neighbouring steered Morocco towards the Western
countries, embraced political pluralism world and even spoke of the country
The National Question

The question of the reintegration of Moroccan territory is a long-
standing theme in contemporary Moroccan politics. At issue is the
western Sahara, an area of 266,000 sq km (102,700 sq miles), from
which Spain withdrew in 1975. In November that year Hassan II
launched a Green March to win back this mineral-rich territory. The
Polisario Front, an armed movement supported by Algeria,
meanwhile fought for the territory’s independence. Open conflict
raged until 1988, when both sides accepted a plan drawn up by the
United Nations, with consideration for the area’s Sahraoui population.
Since 1991, a referendum on the issue has been continually Green March, keeping the national question
postponed because of lack of agreement on voters’ lists. at the top of Morocco’s political agenda
1965 Mehdi Ben 1985 Pope John Paul II

Barka is murdered in visits Casablanca
1963 Outbreak of Paris, where he lived
1956 The war with Algeria in exile after being 1975 1981
Protectorate accused of plotting Start of the (Jun) Unrest
formally ends against the king Green March in Casablanca
1950 1960 1970 1980
1961 Death of 1962 First 1971 Attempted 1970s Morocco is a focus

Mohammed V. constitution coup d’état of the hippy trail
Hassan II is is adopted in Skhirat
Hassan II crowned king through a 1972 Second
referendum attempted coup d’état
The king died in 1999, and was succeeded

by his eldest son, Mohammed VI. He has
addressed human rights issues, has allowed
remaining exiles to return and takes a close
interest in the northern provinces that were
neglected by his father. Fundamental
problems such as underdevelopment,
illiteracy and poverty still remain. After
The ceremony marking Throne Day in Marrakech the terrorist bombs of 2003, the king
proclaimed “the end of the era of
joining the European Union. He pursued indulgence”, and limited human rights
policies that were distinctive in the Muslim and freedom of the press. In 2011 young
world, leading the Al Qods Committee in Moroccans began demonstrating for
Jerusalem and encouraging reconciliation democracy and social change; this became
between Israel and the Palestinians. By known as the 20th February Movement.
contrast, deep-seated caution marked The king and his government created a
his relations with neighbouring Algeria, new constitution and held a referendum
which had gained independence in 1962. on 1 July 2011. Parliamentary elections
Disputes over the border between the were held in November with the Justice
two countries led to war in 1963. and Development Party leader, Abdelilah
On the domestic front, supported by Benkirane becoming the Prime Minister.
General Oufkir, Dlimi then Driss Basri, In September 2015, the first post-Arab
Hassan II alternated liberalizing policies Spring municipal and regional elections
with repression. The first constitution, drawn took place under a new voting system to
up in 1962 and followed by parliamentary select mayors and local council members.
elections in 1963, failed to unify the country.
A new constitution was drawn up in 1970.
Social unrest caused by poverty marked
the following years, as public life returned
to normal. When a new constitution was
drawn up in 1996, the time had come for
a less autocratic style of government.
After parliamentary elections in 1997,
Hassan II opened the doors to change.
Abderrahmane Youssoufi, a political
opponent, was instructed to form a broad
coalition government around the Socialist
Union, and wisely brought in sweeping
reforms to modernize the country. Mohammed VI, who came to the throne in 1999
Hassan II attends the first 2003 Birth of Prince 2011 Months of demonstrations begin on
Maghrebi Union Treaty Moulay Hassan 20th February in Rabat, with thousands of
Moroccans calling for constitutional reform
1994 (Feb) Islamic 2007 Birth
riots on the of Princess 2013 (October) The king
campus in Fès Lalla Khadija appoints a new government.
1990 2000 2010 2020

1988 First 1991 (6 Sep) Ceasefire 1999 Death 2004 Morocco’s 2011 (1 Jul) A referendum is
Maghrebi agreed with the of King Hassan II. parliament held for constitutional reforms.
Union Treaty Polisario Front His son approves a free- Parlimentary elections held
in Algiers 1998 Abderrahmane Youssoufi Mohammed VI trade agreement in November
forms a new government is enthroned with the US
MOROCCO
REGION
BY REGION
Morocco at a Glance 66–67

Rabat 68–85
Northern Atlantic Coast 86–97
Casablanca 98–111
Southern Atlantic Coast 112–131
Tangier 132–145
Mediterranean Coast
& the Rif 146–165
Fès 166–187
Meknès & Volubilis 188–209
Middle Atlas 210–225
Marrakech 226–247
High Atlas 248–263
Ouarzazate &
the Southern Oases 264–285
Southern Morocco
& Western Sahara 286–299
66  MOROCCO REGION BY REGION
Morocco at a Glance
From the Mediterranean coast to the High Atlas, beyond
which the country stretches out into the boundless expanses
of the Sahara Desert, Morocco forms a gigantic semicircle
facing onto the Atlantic. Its major towns and cities, the focus
of the country’s economic and political activity, are located
along the Atlantic seaboard from Tangier to Agadir and from
Fès to Rabat. Topography, climate and history have together
created a multifaceted country which offers everything from
beaches, high mountain valleys and fertile agricultural land Casablanca is renowned for its
with almond and peach trees to majestic mountains and an Art Deco architecture. It also
boasts the richly decorated
extensive desert dotted with oases and palm groves. In secret Hassan II Mosque (see pp106–107).
medinas, in labyrinthine souks, or at the foot of Almohad
and Merinid minarets, traders and artisans can be seen
continuing ancient artistic traditions.
Essaouira
Essaouira, a strikingly
white town that
Agadir
appears to rise up out
of the water, is also a
surfer’s dream location
(see pp124–9).
El-Mahbas
Laayoune
SOUTHERN MOROCCO
& WESTERN SAHARA
Agadir is the place to

go for sun, sand and
relaxation. An attractive Dakhla
medina has been built
in the south of the town
(see pp290–91).
The South is a varied region of deserts, oases,

mountains and coastline. The architecture and the
colours of the houses in Tafraoute, in the Anti-Atlas,
are highly distinctive (see p297).
Aerial view of the delightful town of Chefchaouen in the Rif region
m o r o c c o at a g l a n c e  67
Tangier
Nador
NORTHERN
ATLANTIC
COAST MEDITERRANEAN
COAST & THE RIF Oujda
Rabat Guercif The Rif, between Chefchaouen and

MEKNÈS & Fès Oujda, is a region that invites
Casablanca
VOLUBILIS exploration: Berbers dressed in
striped foutas, stunningly beautiful
MIDDLE beaches, valleys carpeted with
ATLAS
SOUTHERN almond blossom in spring (above)
ATLANTIC are among the attractions of this
COAST
HIGH Figuig region (see pp146–65).
ATLAS
Marrakech
OUARZAZATE &
THE SOUTHERN
OASES
Akka
Fès, an imperial city, has

many splendid sights,
including the zellij tilework
The breathtaking of the Karaouiyine Mosque
landscape of the High (see pp180–81).
Atlas, here near Wadi
Goum, is home to Berber
tribespeople, and is ideal
for hiking (see p263).
Rabat is known for

the picturesque
Oudaïa Kasbah and
the Mausoleum of
Mohammed V,
whose mihrab and
minbar are seen
here (see pp80–81).
Volubilis, the Roman city (see

pp206–209), lies a short distance
from Meknès, one of Morocco’s
imperial cities.
Marrakech, a city
enclosed within its ochre 0 km 100
ramparts (see p231), 0 miles 100
stands in the shadow
of the snowy Atlas.
RABAT
Facing onto the Atlantic Ocean, Rabat is an attractive city of domes
and minarets, sweeping terraces, wide avenues and green spaces. It
is markedly more pleasant than some other Moroccan cities and is
also undergoing fundamental change. Facing Salé, its ancient rival,
across Wadi Bou Regreg, Rabat is the political, administrative
and financial capital of Morocco, the country’s main university
town and its second-largest metropolis after Casablanca.
Archaeological excavations of the Merinid Almohads’ defeat at the Battle of Las

necropolis at Chellah (see pp84–5) have Navas de Tolosa in 1212 weakened their
shown that this area was occupied by the power and led to the city’s decline.
Romans, and by others even earlier too. In 1610, Philip III of Spain expelled from
Much later, around 1150, Abd el-Moumen, his kingdom the remaining Moors, who
the first ruler of the Almohad dynasty, fled to the cities of the Maghreb. Among
chose to establish a permanent camp here them were a large colony of emigrants
and ordered a small imperial residence to from Andalusia who settled in Rabat.
be built on the site of a former ribat Rabat became the capital of a minor and
(fortified monastery). relatively autonomous coastal republic.
The caliph Yacoub el-Mansour then Funds brought by the Andalusian refugees
embarked on the construction of a great were put to equipping a flotilla of privateers
and splendid city that was to be known that preyed on European shipping. The
as Ribat el-Fath (Camp of Victory), in “Republic of Bou Regreg”, as it was known,
celebration of his victory over Alfonso VIII was then annexed to the sherif’s kingdom
of Castile at the Battle of Alarcos in 1195. in 1666, although piracy was not brought
On the death of the caliph in 1199, work to an end until the mid-19th century.
on this ambitious project ceased: In 1912 Marshal Lyautey (see p60) made
although the city gates and walls had Rabat the political and administrative
been completed, the Hassan Mosque and capital of Morocco. Its population now
its minaret (see p53) were unfinished. The exceeds 1.77 million.
The majestic Mausoleum of Mohammed V

Fishing boats moored with the Kasbah des Oudaias in the background
Exploring Rabat
Rabat has four main areas of interest.
A
A
M
JA
In the north is the picturesque
E
RU
Oudaïa Kasbah, which is partly
enclosed by ramparts dating from
the Almohad period. The medina,
which contains the city’s souks, is
I
U
D AO U
LO
bounded to the west by Almohad EL
A
RU
ramparts and to the south by the
E
J
RD
D
A
17th-century Andalusian Wall, which V
A
R.
H
DE
LE
SC
U
runs parallel to Boulevard Hassan II. O MA
M
O
B
N
SU
M
RU
A
Avenue Mohammed V is the new L
LS
H
Bab el H TE
E
TA
RU
Alou R.
ES
town’s busy central north– south axis,
E
MEDINA U
N
O UK
with residential blocks dating from the
BOU
Almo
SO
KR
SID
R.
U
MO
BO
I
Protectorate (1912–56). In the northeast
L E VA
had
HA
A
ÏK
E
RU
MM
U
SO
stands the Hassan Tower and Mausoleum
Wall
RD
ED
FA
of Mohammed V. In the Merinid necropolis Bab
TA
Chellah
H
E
RU
at Chellah, to the south, are vestiges of
V
II
MISR
the Roman town of Sala. N

S SA Bab-
HA Chellah
Bus RD
Bab el- VA
Station Boulba ULE PARC
BO
Médina
AV E
DU TRIANGLE
DE VUE
R. D
Bab el-
UE
AV
E
Had A
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BEY
MO
EN
E N OU
A V UKA
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MM
M
EL EL
ED
R . S O UB I
N H
MA DA AL
V
D
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LA
I
NO RUE EL KA H
L
KAR
SOE PLACE
AV
RUE WASHINGTON
EN
A L L L AY
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AH
A B DM O U
Almo
BEN
had
AV.
MO
N
NA
UI
BO R U E
Wall
HA
E A FA
RU RIS
MM
Rabat-Ville
ABD
PLACE
ED
MOHAMMED V
ELLA
SEF
US
H
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EL
LAY
The Sliman Mosque and the medina in Rabat

OU
PLACE
AY JAMA ES
. M
UL
MO SOUNA
AV
NUE
Bab el- AV E
Rouah
Sights at a Glance
Districts, Streets & Squares e Mohammed VI Museum
1 City Walls of Modern and
4 Place Souk el-Ghezel and Contemporary Art
Rue Hadj Daoui
Historic Buildings
5 Rue des Consuls
6 Rue Souk es-Sebat 2 Bab Oudaïa
7 Rue Souïka 8 Andalusian Wall
q Ville Nouvelle 9 Hassan Tower
0 Mausoleum of Mohammed V
Museums pp80–81
3 Musée des Oudaïa (Museum r Bab el-Rouah
of Moroccan Crafts) t Dar el-Makhzen
w Musée Archéologique pp82–3 y Chellah Necropolis
For hotels and restaurants see p306 and pp320–21

R A B AT  71
Wa
di
ou
B
Reg
reg
Bab el
Bahr The Andalusian Wall surrounding the medina
A
T TA
B RI PONT
SE K MOULAY
EL MA
RSA HASSAN
R
PLACE SIDI
MELLAH
.
II MAKLOUF Pont
O
N
SSA
U
Hassan II
Q
HA
Q
A
D
AR
SA
BO
EV UL
UL EV
BO AR
PLACE DU Place du D
MELLAH EN 16 Novembre
M
OU Getting Around
A L AO U I Y N E
I LYA
M
RU
D EL
E
AB The main sights of Rabat

MEL
AB
E
ES
R. HM
IN
RA
ID Hassan
are easily reachable on
AB A
HH
I
E Mosque
SA
RU R UA
DE NE
U MO foot. The city’s many one-

RUE
R-
ÂD
E L
E
R. NE
way streets, however,
IY
IY AN
PLACE IN SS
NE
ID AR HA
MELILYA
RA
CH M
TO
UR make driving difficult. It is
LA
best to park on Boulevard
R . P. L U M U M B A
Y
LA EL DE
EL
U E
RU
O
Hassan II, since parking
REG
M
TUNIS
E E
M
RU RU
spaces are hard to find in
O
REG
U
RUE MAKKA
the city centre. Although
LA
RU E
IDRISS EL
Y
A K B AR
RU
Rabat is served by a bus

DE
E
Tour Hassan
UE
and tram network, it is
EN
NE
Place
often more practical to
RUE
Al-Joulane AV
DU
IS
RA
travel around the city in a

M
IH
A
OU
PLACE EL
ÏL
PLACE EL
Saint- JOULANE OUAHDAH petit taxi, which is only
D’
Pierre EL IFRIQYAH
A
RUE ELAZAÏR PLACE A. a little more expensive.
PLACE AB LINCOLN
E
N
RU
MOULAY
ABOU AN BD
EL MARINI HASSAN D’
E TA
RU RIQ
FÈS
RU
CH
E
IB
EL
N N
SA PLACE
LA
S MOULAY
HA E DE MEKNÈS
H
ALI CHÉRIF ENU

AV
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AZIZ
DE
EL INE
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Street-by-Street: the Oudaïa Kasbah

The kasbah takes its name from the Oudaïas, an Arab
tribe with a warrior past that was settled here by Moulay
Ismaïl (1672–1727) to protect the city from the threat
of rebel tribes. Part of the city walls that surround this
“fortress”, built on the top of a cliff, and Bab Oudaïa,
the gate that pierces it, date from the Almohad period
(1147–1248). On Rue Jamaa, the main thoroughfare of
this picturesque district, stands the El-Atika Mosque,
built in the 12th century and the oldest mosque in Rabat. 2 . Bab Oudaïa
An archetypal example of Almohad
military architecture, this monumental
gate was built by Yacoub el-Mansour
in the 12th century.
1 City Walls
The western ramparts
were built by Yacoub
el-Mansour in 1195,
after his victory over El-Alou cemetery
Alfonso III.
R
U
E
3 . Musée des Oudaïa
Since 1915 the historic palace of
Moulay Ismaïl (see pp58–9) has
housed a museum with a rich
collection of Moroccan folk
art and crafts.
E
RU
O
ZZ
BA
E
U
R
Café Maure
This is where Rabatis
come to relax and
. Andalusian Garden pass the time. From
This pleasant garden, here there are views
laid out in the Moorish of Salé’s medina, of
style at the beginning the Bou Regreg and
of the 20th century, of the Atlantic Ocean.
features a traditional A doorway leads
Arabic noria (waterwheel through to the
for irrigation). Andalusian Garden.
R A B AT  73
Practical Information
Northern district. Accessible
via Place du Souk el-Ghezel and
Bab Oudaïa or Place de l’Ancien-
Sémaphore. Andalusian Garden:
Open accessible from the Café
Maure. The narrow streets of the
kasbah are best explored on foot.
Locator Map
See Rabat Map pp70–71
Narrow Kasbah Street

Fountain Although some elements
date back to the 12th
Almohad walls century, the houses in the
kasbah, lime-washed in
blue or white, were built
in the late 17th to early
18th centuries, at the time
of the first Alaouite rulers.
J
A
M
Prayer Hall of the El-Atika Mosque
A Founded in about 1150 by Abd
A
el-Moumen, this place of worship is
Rabat’s oldest monument. The mosque
O
Z
Z was remodelled in the 18th century,
B
A and again under the Alaouites.
R
U
E
J
A
M
A
A
RUE
BA
ZZ
O
Carpet
workshop
Pirates’ Tower
Platform of the Former

Oudaïa Signal Station
Built in the 18th century by 0 metres 50
Sultan Sidi Mohammed ben
0 yards 50
Abdallah, this signal station
defended the Bou Regreg
estuary. The warehouse
Key
to its right contains a
carpet workshop. Suggested route
The city walls are built of Oudaïa Palace was also

rough-hewn stone covered a defensive feature and a
with a thick coating of ochre tribunal. Today, the gatehouse
plaster. They are set with serves as an exhibition hall.
imposing towers and bastions,
which are more numerous
along the stretch of the walls 3 Musée des
facing the sea and the river. Oudaïa
Standing 8 to 10 m (26 to 33 ft) Oudaïa Kasbah. Accessible
high, and having an average via a gateway in the southwestern
thickness of 2.50 m (8 ft), the walls. Closed for renovation until
walls are surmounted by a further notice.
rampart walk bordered by a
low parapet; part of the rampart In the 17th century, Moulay
walk survives. Ismaïl built a small palace within
This sturdy building and the kasbah. This became the
sophisticated military construc- residence of the first Alaouite
tion defended the pirates’ nest sultans while they were based
Walls of the Andalusian Garden, built in the and withstood almost all attacks in Rabat, as an inscription on
reign of Moulay Rachid from European forces. the wooden lintels of the
central patio indicates:
1 City Walls “Unfailing fortune and brilliant
In the north of the city. Accessible
2 Bab Oudaïa victory to our lord Smaïl, leader
via Place du Souk el-Ghezel and Oudaïa Kasbah. The gate leads to
of the faithful.” The palace was
Place de l’Ancien Sémaphore. the kasbah from Place du Souk completely restored and slightly
el-Ghezel. altered in 1917, during the
Separated from the medina Protectorate, and has undergone
by the Place du Souk el-Ghezel, Towering above the cliffs further phases of restoration, as
the Oudaïa Kasbah is defended that line the Bou Regreg, and well as a renovation since then.
by thick ramparts. These were dominating Rabat’s medina The palace as it is today
built mostly by the Almohads is Bab Oudaïa, which is the main consists of a main building
in the 12th century, and were entrance into the kasbah. This arranged around an arcaded
restored and remodelled monumental city gate, courtyard. The four sides of
in the 17th and built in dressed stone the courtyard lead off into
18th centuries of red ochre, is large rectangular rooms
by the Moriscos considered to with marble floors and
and the be one of the geometrically coffered ceilings.
Alaouite kings. finest examples The surrounding buildings
Most of the of Almohad include a prayer room for
Almohad walls architecture. But private workship, a hammam
that face onto the the particular (steam bath) and a tower.
sea and run inland design and A beautiful garden laid out
survive. The walls conception of this in the Andalusian style gives
surrounding the Stylized seashell on gateway, built by
Andalusian Garden Bab Oudaïa Yacoub el-Mansour
date from the reign of in 1195, make it more
Moulay Rachid (founder of a decorative feature than a
of the Alaouite dynasty). The piece of military defence work.
Hornacheros (Andalusian Flanked by two towers, it is
emigrants) who occupied the crowned by a horseshoe arch.
kasbah and rebuffed attacks The inner and outer façades are
from both sea and land rebuilt decorated with rich ornamen-
the curtain wall in several places tation carved in relief into the
and constructed the Pirates’ stone, starting at the opening
Tower, whose inner stairway of the arch and continuing in
leads down to the river. They several tiers as far up as the
also pierced the walls of the base of the parapet. Above the
old Almohad towers with arch, two bands with interlacing
embrasures to hold cannons. lozenges are outlined with
A complex system of under- floral decoration. Both sides
ground passages leading of the gate are crowned by a
from within the kasbah to band of calligraphy.
the exterior beyond the As in all Moorish palaces, The Musée des Oudaïa, laid out in a
walls was also dug. the gatehouse of the former 17th-century palace
R A B AT  75
the palace the status of a arches and ornamental motifs

princely residence. such as the pilasters consisting
Since 1915, the palace has of vertically arranged mouldings
housed the Musée des Oudaïa. that decorate the upper parts
On display here is an extensive of doors. The smaller houses
collection of jewellery, including are of simple design, most of
traditional pieces fashioned by them built of stone rendered
Berber families. There are also with limewashed plaster. Most
displays of woodcarvings, of the richer houses tucked
carpets and copperwork, away in the different quarters of
astrolabes (for measuring the Rabat are built around a central
altitude of stars) dating from courtyard, like those in other
the 14th and 17th centuries, Moroccan medinas, and have
and collections of ceramics and a refined elegance.
of musical instruments. One Walking west along Rue
room in the museum is laid Hadj Daoui leads to Dar el-Mrini,
out as a traditional Moroccan a fine private house built in Colourful wooden serving trays and leather
interior, with sofas covered in 1920, which today has been camels at a stall in Rue des Consuls
sumptuous gold-embroidered transformed into an exhibition
silk fabrics made in Fès. Another and conference centre. with the shops of craftsmen
room is devoted to the and traders, making it the most
traditional dress of the region lively quarter in the medina.
between the Rif and the Sahara. 5 Rue des Consuls The two former fondouks at
Eastern part of the medina.
No. 109 and No. 137 are now
the workshops of leatherworkers
Running through the medina, and woodworkers.
Rue des Consuls begins at the South of Rue Souk es-Sebat
Wool Market in the north and (see p78) the street changes
leads down towards the name to Rue Ouqqasa, which
Andalusian Wall in the south. Up borders the mellah (Jewish
to the time of the Protectorate, quarter). In Rue Tariq el-Marsa is
this street was where all foreign the Ensemble Artisanal, selling
consuls in Rabat were obliged Moroccan crafts, and, a little
A small shop in the Souk el-Ghezel district to live. Covered with rushes and further on, is a restored 18th-
of Rabat a glass roof, the street is lined century naval depot.
4 Place Souk
el-Ghezel and
Rue Hadj Daoui
A convenient place to start
exploring Rabat’s medina is
the Place Souk el-Ghezel, (Wool
Market Square), so named
because of the market that once
took place here. This was also the
place where Christian prisoners
were once sold as slaves. Today,
it is the fine carpets made in the
city that are auctioned here
every Thursday morning.
Rue Hadj Daoui, just southwest
of Place Souk el-Ghezel, leads
into the residential area of the
medina, where the streets are
quieter and where houses built
by the Moriscos are still visible.
The unmistakable mark
that the Moriscos made on
the architecture of Rabat can
be seen in certain styles of
building: for example, those
involving the use of semicircular Rue des Consuls, one of the lively thoroughfares in the medina
Decorative interior of the Mausoleum of Mohammed V in Rabat
6 Rue Souk es-Sebat The walls are set with towers

placed at intervals of some 35 m
In the medina.
(115 ft) and are topped by a
This thoroughfare, which rampart walk. This is protected
begins at the Great Mosque by a parapet that the Andalusians
and ends at Bab el-Bhar (Gate pierced with numerous narrow
of the Sea) crosses the Rue slits known as loopholes.
des Consuls. To the east of the walls they
Covered by a rush trellis, built the Bastion Sidi Makhlouf,
this lively street is filled with Merinid fountain in the Great a small, irregular fort
the shops of leatherworkers, Mosque district which consists of a
jewellers and fabric merchants platform resting on
and of traders in all sorts of Opposite the mosque is a solid foundations,
other goods. fountain with a pediment of with a tower close
intersecting arches, built in the by. They also built
14th century, during the reign of embrasures over
7 Rue Souïka the Merinid sultan Abou Fares two of the
Abdelaziz. Further along the Almohad gates,
In the medina. Great Mosque:
street, on the corner of Rue Sidi Bab el-Alou and
Fatah, is the Moulay Sliman Bab el-Had.
Running southwest from Mosque, or Jamaa el-Souika. It Bab el-Had
Rue Souk es-Sebat, Rue was built in about 1812 on the was once the
Souïka (Little Souk Street) orders of Moulay Sliman, on the main gateway
is the main artery through site of an earlier place of worship. into the medina. Moulay Sliman
the medina and also its most Dating from the Mosque
lively thoroughfare. Lined with Almohad period
all manner of small shops 8 Andalusian Wall (1147–1248), it was rebuilt
selling clothes, shoes, food, Between Bab el-Had and Place
by Moulay Sliman in 1814. On
radios and DVDs, with Sidi Makhlouf. the side facing Boulevard Misr,
restaurants and with spice one of gate’s two pentagonal
merchants, the street throngs In the 17th century, the towers stands close to the
with people most of the day. Moriscos – Muslim refugees Almohad walls, which probably
At the intersection with Rue from Andalusia – found the date from 1197.
de Bab Chellah stands the medina undefended and so Bab el-Had contains
Great Mosque, built probably encircled it with a defensive several small chambers
between the 13th and the wall. Named after its builders, which were intended to
16th centuries and remodelled the Andalusian Wall stands accommodate the soldiers
and restored on several about 5 m (16 ft) high and runs who were in charge of the
occasions during the Alaouite in a straight line for more than guard, the armouries and
period. The mosque’s most 1,400 m (4,595 ft) from Bab the billetting of the troops.
prominent feature is the el-Had (Sunday Gate) in the
minaret, rising to a height of west to the borj (small fort)
33 m (109 ft) and completed of Sidi Makhlouf in the east. 9 Hassan Tower
in 1939. It is built of ashlars Boulevard Hassan II runs parallel Rue de la Tour Hassan.
(blocks of hewn stone), to it. During the Protectorate, a Closed to the public.
decorated with dressed stone, stretch of the walls about 100 m
and pierced with openings in (328 ft) long, and including Bab For more than eight centuries,
the shape of lobed or inter- el-Tben, was destroyed to allow the Hassan Tower has stood
secting arches. easier access to a market. on the hill overlooking Wadi
Bou Regreg. Best seen as one
approaches Rabat by the bridge
from Salé, it is one of the city’s
most prestigious monuments
and a great emblem of Rabat.
It is the unfinished minaret
of the Hassan Mosque, built by
Yacoub el-Mansour in about
1196. The construction of this
gigantic mosque, of dimensions
quite out of proportion to the
population of Rabat at the time,
suggests that the Almohad
ruler intended to make Rabat
Bab el-Had, the “Sunday Gate”, built in the 17th century his new imperial capital.
R A B AT  79
interlacing arches form a sebkha Avenue Mohammed V, the main

motif (lozengeshaped blind avenue, runs from the medina
fretwork). The interior is divided to the ElSouna Mosque, or
into six levels, each of which Great Mosque, which was built
consists of a domed room. The by Sidi Mohammed in the 18th
levels are linked and accessed century. The avenue is lined
by a continuous ramp. with residential blocks in the
It was from the Hassan Tower HispanoMaghrebistyle. They
that Mohammed V conducted were built by the administration
the first Friday prayers after of the Protectorate, as were the
independence was declared. Bank of Morocco, the post
office, the parliament building
and the railway station. The
0 Mausoleum of Bank of Morocco also houses
Mohammed V the Musée Bank Al Maghrib,
which displays a collection
See pp80–81.
The Hassan Tower and remains of the of coins, plus Moroccan and
Hassan Mosque’s prayer hall orientalist paintings.
Rue Abou Inan leads to the
An alternative interpretation q Ville Nouvelle Cathédrale Saint-Pierre, a pure
is that the Almohads were white building dating from
attempting to rival the magnifi During the 44 years of the the 1930s.
cent Great Mosque of Córdoba, Protectorate, Marshal Lyautey
the former capital of the Islamic and the architects Prost and E Musée Bank Al Maghrib
kingdom in the West (see pp52–3). Ecochard built a new town Bank of Morocco, Rue du Caire. Tel
Either way, after the death of in the empty part of the (0537) 21 64 72. Open 9am–5:30pm
Yacoub elMansour in 1199, the extensive area enclosed Tue–Fri, 9am–noon & 3–6pm Sat,
unfinished mosque fell into by the Almohad walls. 9am–1pm Sun. ∑ musee.bkam.ma
disrepair. All but the mosque’s Laying out wide boulevards R Cathédrale Saint-Pierre
minaret was destroyed by an and green spaces, they created Place du Golan. Tel (0537) 72 23 01.
earthquake in 1755. a relatively pleasant town. Open 9am–noon & 3–6pm daily.
The Hassan Mosque was
built to a huge rectangular plan
183 m (600 ft) by 139 m (456 ft);
the Great Mosque of Córdoba
was just 175 m (574 ft) by 128 m
(420 ft). It was the largest
religious building in the Muslim
West, in size inferior only to the
mosque of Samarra in Iraq.
A great courtyard lay at the
foot of the tower, while the huge
prayer hall was divided into
21 avenues separated by lines
of gigantic columns crowned
with capitals. Remains of these
imposing stone columns survive
and still convey an impression
of infinite grandeur.
The minaret, a squaresided
tower about 16 m (52 ft) wide
and 44 m (144 ft) high, was to
have surpassed the height of
the Koutoubia Mosque (see
pp240–41) and the Giralda in
Seville (see pp52–3), but it was
never completed. According to
Almohad custom, it would have
reached 80 m (262 ft), including
the lantern. Even unfinished it
seems huge. Each of its four
sides is decorated with blind
lobed arches. On the topmost
level of the minaret, extended The dazzling white Cathédrale Saint-Pierre, built in the 1930s
0 Mausoleum of Mohammed V
Raised in memory of Mohammed V, the father of Moroccan
independence, this majestic building was commissioned
by his son, Hassan II. It was designed by the Vietnamese
architect Vo Toan and built with the help of 400 Moroccan
craftsmen. The group of buildings that make up the
mausoleum of Mohammed V include a mosque and a
museum devoted to the history of the Alaouite dynasty.
The mausoleum itself, in white Italian marble, stands on a
platform 3.5 m (11.5 ft) high. Entry is through a wrought- . Dome with Muqarnas
iron door that opens onto a stairway leading to the dome, This twelve-sided dome, with painted
mahogany muqarnas (stalactites),
beneath which lies the sarcophagus of Mohammed V. crowns the burial chamber.
. Sarcophagus
Carved from a single block of marble, the
sarcophagus rests on a slab of granite, facing
a qibla (symbolizing Mecca).
Guard
The traditional attire of
the royal guard is white
in summer and red
in winter.
Fountain
Embellished with polychrome zellij tilework and
framed by a horseshoe arch of Salé sandstone,
this fountain is in the Moorish style.
R A B AT  81
Stained-Glass Windows
The stained-glass windows in the
dome were made in France, in
the workshops of the factory
Boulevard El-Alaouiyine.
at St-Gobain.
Open 9am–6pm daily (also
to non-Muslims).
Calligraphy
This marble frieze features a song of
holy praise carved in Maghrebi script.
Doorways
The doorways on
the four sides
of the mausoleum
are fronted by
slender columns of
Carrara marble.
Candelabra
These large candelabra,
with slender vertical
shafts, are made of
pierced and
engraved copper.
KEY
1 Burial vault containing the body

of Mohammed V.
2 Brass spheres symbolize a holy
or religious building
3 Polychrome zellij tilework
4 Doorways lead to the balcony
from which the sarcophagus can
be viewed below.
5 Esplanade
6 These steps lead down to the
level of the sarcophagus chamber
and prayer hall.
Main entrance 7 Other members of the royal
family, lie in the mausoleum.
w Musée Archéologique
The most extensive collection of archaeological artifacts
in the country is housed in the Musée Archéologique. The
museum building was constructed in the 1930s, to house
the Antiquities Services. The initial prehistoric and pre-Islamic
collections, consisting of objects discovered by archaeologists
working in Volubilis, Banasa and Thamusida, were put on
public display for the first time in 1930–32. The addition of
further material from Volubilis in 1957 considerably enlarged
the museum’s collections, raising it to the status of a national
museum. The displays present the collections according to
historical period. These range from the prehistoric period up
to the findings of recent archaeological excavations. Roman pitcher of the 1st to 2nd centuries,
with strainer and spout
Sidi Abderrahmane and Daya

el-Hamra; the Mousterian
culture; and, finally, the Aterian
culture of around 40,000–
20,000 BC. The latter, specific
to North Africa, is illustrated
by the only human remains to
have been discovered at Dar
al-Soltane and el-Harhoura.
Sala-Chellah and
Islamic Archaeology
The site of Sala-Chellah
(see pp84–5) is that of a
The House of the Ephebe, Volubilis (see pp208–209) Mauretanian and Roman
town which flourished up
and Cleopatra Selene, who to the 4th century AD
Temporary Exhibitions was assassinated by the and which in the
The space on the ground Roman emperor Caligula. 13th century
floor reserved for temporary became a royal
exhibitions illustrates the results necropolis under
of archaeological investigations Prehistoric Cultures the Merinids.
in Morocco, using photographs, Also on the ground floor is a The collection
graphics, models, sculpture collection of stone artifacts of implements
and various other objects. relating to the earliest cultures and other objects Head of a
A map of Morocco in the and civilizations. Exhibits (including pottery Berber youth
lobby shows the various include altars and stelae carved and oil lamps)
archaeological sites that with inscriptions, sarcophagi, displayed on the upper floor of
have been discovered stone arrowheads, the museum traces the history
to date, and the pebble tools, of the site. Particularly striking
methods used to pottery, polished exhibits include the bronze bust
excavate them are stones, axes and of Juba II (52 BC–AD 23) which
explained. The swords, fragments was discovered in Volubilis and
reconstruction of a of tombs and probably came from Egypt. An
mosaic from Volubilis mouldings, as well Early Christian altar, a Byzantine
is laid out on the floor as rock carvings. censer and an ivory figure of
of the room opposite. Among the cultures the Good Shepherd show the
The marble statue highlighted here are presence of Christianity in
in the centre of the the Pebble Culture, Morocco from the 3rd to
room, dating from known from sites the 8th centuries.
AD 25–40, is that of at Arbaoua, Douar The section on Islamic
Ptolemy, king of Doum and archaeology highlights the
Mauretania Tingitana Casablanca; the principal sites that have been
and the son and Roman bone and Acheulian culture, excavated. The displays of
successor of Juba II ivory carving known at sites in objects that have been
R A B AT  83
unearthed include coins, the Head of a Berber Youth from VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
pottery made in Sijilmassa Volubilis carved during the
and other ceramics, notably reign of Augustus, a Sphinx Practical Information
a 14th-century dish from from a votive throne, and a 23 Rue el-Brihi (behind the
Belyounech, as well as Sleeping Silenus from Volubilis. Grand Mosque, opposite the
fragments of carved plaster There are also figures of Roman Chellah hotel). Tel (0537) 20 03
and sugar-loaf moulds gods such as Venus, Bacchus 98. Open 9am–6pm Wed–Mon
from Chichaoua. and Mars, and of Egyptian (last admission 45 mins before
closing). Closed Tue, public
deities such as Isis and Anubis.
hols. &
A particularly impressive part
Pre-Islamic Civilizations of the museum’s displays is the
Artifacts uncovered during collection of antique bronzes
excavations at Volubilis, Banasa, which come mainly from of the dog, which is clearly
Thamusida, Sala and Mogador Volubilis and which demonstrate designed to be accompanied
are arranged by theme, illustrating the wealth enjoyed by by a human figure (undoubtedly
in an informative fashion the Morocco’s Roman towns. A Diana), suggests that it was
most salient aspects of both well-preserved bust of Cato the made to decorate a fountain in
pre-Roman Morocco Younger; this 1st-century public baths. The Lustral Ephebe,
(Mauretanian sculpture discovered also discovered in Volubilis in
civilization) in the House 1929, brings to mind the Lustral
and Roman of Venus was Dionysus of Praxiteles, preserved
Morocco imported into in a museum in Dresden, in
(Mauretania Morocco. Germany, and known through
Tingitana). A Ephebe Crowned numerous copies. Finally, the
range of objects with Ivy is, without bust of Juba II which dates from
show the extent a doubt, the star 25 BC was probably imported
of trade relations piece in the collection. from Egypt.
between Morocco The naked ephebe
and the Mediterranean Head of Oceanus (young soldier in
world, particularly (1st century BC) training) wears a
Carthage; and public crown of delicate ivy
and private life is illustrated and is depicted in a standing
through everyday objects, position. The stance suggests
including the taps that were that in his left hand he held a
used in public baths, fragments torch; this type of representa-
of terracotta piping, and cooking tion, known as a “lampadophore”,
utensils such as plates, dishes, together with the classicism of
glasses and knives. A section the statue, are typical of
on the Roman army includes a sculpture of the 1st century.
military diploma from Banasa, The Dog of Volubilis, found on
certificates of good conduct the site in 1916 in the vicinity of
engraved on bronze plaques the triumphal arch, dates from
and military decorations. the reign of Hadrian (early 2nd
The collection of white century) and was also made Roman votive stele from Volubilis,
marble sculpture includes outside Morocco. The position 1st–2nd century AD
Gallery Guide
The museum consists of just
four rooms. Visitors can begin Key
their tour of the museum in Room 1: Temporary
any one of them. exhibitions
Room 2: Prehistoric
cultures
Balcony Room 3: Sala-Chellah and
Islamic archaeology
Room 4: Pre-Islamic
civilizations
e Mohammed VI
Museum of
Modern and
Contemporary Art
Corner of Avenue Moulay Hassan &
Avenue Allal Ben Abdellah. Tel (0537)
76 90 47. Open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon.
& ∑ museemohammed6.ma
Morocco’s first major museum

of modern and contemporary
art opened in 2014. It covers the
development of Moroccan
visual arts from the beginning Rabat’s Dar el-Makhzen (royal palace), where 2,000 people live and work
of the 20th century to the
present day and hosts a large site of an 18th-century royal y Chellah
permanent collection as well residence, the current palace Necropolis
as temporary exhibitions. was completed in 1864, but
In the southeast of the city.
was constantly enlarged
Open 9am–6pm daily. Access via Bab
thereafter; today, it even
Zaer but best reached by taxi. &
includes a racecourse.
The palace now houses Access to the Chellah
the offices of the Moroccan Necropolis is via Bab Zaer.
government, the Supreme This gate, named after a local
Court, the prime minister’s tribe, was the only one on the
offices, the ministry of the southern side of the ramparts
Habous (responsible for religious built by Yacoub el-Mansour.
organizations), and the El-Fas The necropolis is nearby.
Bab el-Rouah, a fine Almohad gate with Mosque. The méchouar, a The entrance to the necropolis
arches set into the stonework place of public assembly, is the itself is marked by an imposing
venue for major and important Almohad gate with a horseshoe
r Bab el-Rouah gatherings, including the bayaa, arch flanked by two towers.
Place an-Nasr. Gallery: Open daily a ceremony at which senior Above the arch is a band of
during exhibitions. government ministers swear Kufic calligraphy with the name
their allegiance to the king. of its builder, Abou el-Hassan,
A sturdy and imposing Traditionally, the king would and the date 1339. On the left,
Almohad gateway, Bab reside in the former harem inside a former guardhouse,
el-Rouah, the Gate of the though Mohammed VI stays there is a café. Through the gate,
Winds, dates from the same in his own private residence. a stepped walkway leads to a
period as Bab Oudaïa (see p72). Besides private buildings, terrace offering spectacular
The entrance is decorated the palace also includes an views of the Bou Regreg valley,
with the outline of two horseshoe extensive garden, immaculately the Merinid necropolis and the
arches carved into the stone kept and planted with various remains of the Roman town
and surrounded by a band of species of trees and with flowers of Sala Colonia, which are
Kufic calligraphy. in formal beds. surrounded by lush vegetation.
The interior of the gate It was Abou Yacoub Youssef,
contains four rooms with the first Merinid caliph, who
elegant domes. These rooms chose this as the site of a
are now used for exhibitions. mosque and the burial place
of his wife, Oum el-Izz, in 1284.
Abou Yacoub Youssef died in
t Dar el-Makhzen Algeciras in 1286, and his body
was brought back to the necro-
In the northwest of the city. Closed to
polis. His two successors, Abou
the public. The exterior of the palace
complex is of interest in its own right.
Yacoub, who died in 1307, and
The méchouar (assembly place) and Abou Thabit, who died in 1308,
the gardens are open to the public. were also laid to rest here. The
burial complex was completed
An extensive complex by the sultan Abou Saïd (1310–
enclosed within its own walls, 31) and his son Abou el-Hassan
the Dar el-Makhzen (royal (1331–51), and was later
palace) is inhabited by about Detail of the Gate of Ambassadors at the embellished by Abou Inan. The
2,000 people. Built on the Royal Palace walls around the necropolis,
R A B AT  85
Merinid ruler to be buried was ransacked several times. It

here, in 1351, lies was largely destroyed by the
alongside the walls. His earthquake of 1755. Vegetation
funerary stele is still in invaded the stonework and
place. Also to be seen here colonies of storks built their
is the koubba of his wife, nests in the trees and on the
who died in 1349. Named minarets, giving the place a
Chams el-Doha (which can supernatural atmosphere,
be translated as “light of particularly at sunset.
the dawn”), she was a The necropolis has become
Christian who converted the subject of much folklore
to Islam. She was the and many legends, as can be
mother of Abou Inan (see seen from the large number
p55), one of the most of marabouts (shrines) of holy
illustrious Merinid rulers. men that are scattered about
Her accomplishments the garden. The sacred eels
include the building of in the fountain (once the
the Bou Inania Medersa ablutions fountain for the
in Fès (see pp176–7). mosque) are also believed to
Also within the walls bring good fortune to barren
of the necropolis was women. These supplicants feed
Storks nesting on the minaret of the former a zaouia, a religious them eggs, symbols of fertility,
zaouia at Chellah institution that functioned which are offered for sale by
simultaneously as a young boys in the square.
which have the ochre tones mosque, a centre of learning
typical of the earth stone of and a hostel for pilgrims and Environs
Rabat, were built by Abou el- students (some of the cells can Archaeological excavations
Hassan, who probably recon- still be made out). Built by Abou at Chellah have uncovered
structed the existing Roman el-Hassan, the zaouia is the remains of the major
walls. In 1500, Leo Africanus designed and decorated like the buildings of Sala Colonia. Once
recorded the existence of medersas in Fès, and it is a prosperous Roman city, Sala
30 Merinid tombs. thought that it may have been Colonia later declined and by
Situated within the walls of even more luxuriously the 10th century had fallen into
the necropolis are the ruins appointed. Abou el-Hassan ruin. Still visible today is the
of the mosque built by Abou covered the upper part of the decumanus maximus, the main
Youssef and of the buildings minaret with a decorative thoroughfare that crossed all
that surrounded it. To the right design of white, black, green Roman cities from east to west.
behind the mihrab is the and blue zellij tilework, which is It led out from Sala Colonia to
koubba (shrine) of Abou still visible today. the port, built in the 1st century
Yacoub Youssef. The necropolis at Chellah BC and now buried in sand.
Opposite the koubba, the was abandoned at the end of From the forum, a road to
Mausoleum of Abou el-Hassan, the Merinid dynasty, and in the the right leads towards the
the Black Sultan and the last course of the following centuries Merinid necropolis.
The walls around the Chellah Necropolis, raised by Abou el-Hassan in the 14th century
NORTHERN
ATLANTIC COAST
Morocco’s Northern Atlantic coast offers extensive beaches of soft
fine sand, lagoons, winter havens for migratory birds, and forests that
are highly prized by hunters. But to explore it is also to travel back
in time, since the heritage of the Phoenicians and the Romans,
the corsairs, the Portuguese and the Spanish, as well as
of the colonial period is present alongside the modern
prosperity brought by agriculture, port activity,
trade and tourism.
Although it attracts far fewer tourists linking Sala Colonia (known today
than the interior or the imperial cities, as Chellah, see pp84–5) and Banasa,
the Moroccan coastline from Rabat Lixus and Tangier. This is the heart of
to Tangier has much to offer visitors. one of earliest regions of Morocco in
It has not undergone the high level of which towns and cities were established.
development that has transformed the The ocean has shaped the history of
coastal area from Rabat to Casablanca the coastal towns: occupied from
and the south. Nevertheless, this region Phoenician times and into the Roman
is no less characteristic of the modern, period, they have attracted pirates,
vibrant and outward-looking country invaders and Andalusian, Spanish and
that Morocco has become. For 250 km French occupiers, each of whom left
(155 miles), the ocean seems omnipresent, their mark. It is also the ocean that gives
as roads and motorways often skirt the the region its gentle, moist climate
coastline and the beaches. For motorists (strawberries, bananas and tomatoes are
following the coastal roads, the ocean grown in greenhouses) and that drives
may suddenly come into sight at an industry and port activity from Kenitra to
estuary or over a dune. The road follows Tangier, where a port has been built to
roughly the course of a Roman road handle cargo bound for Europe.
Roman temple ruins at the ancient site of Lixus

Asilah, a small Andalusian-style town, facing the Atlantic
Exploring the Northern Atlantic Coast

Travelling along Morocco’s Atlantic coast between Salé and Tangier reveals a
natural paradise of sea, forests, lagoons, hunting and fishing within sight of
beaches that appear to stretch to infinity. The coast is punctuated by ancient
sites: Thamusida, nestling in a bend of Wadi Sebou; Banasa, set a little way
back from the sea, in the fertile plain of the Rharb; and Lixus, standing on a
promontory opposite Larache, on the estuary of the Loukkos. From Salé to
Tangier, a succession of small walled towns with interesting monuments
bears witness to a rich history: Mehdya, whose kasbah dominates the final
meanders of Wadi Sebou; Moulay Bousselham, with its attractive lagoon and
beach protected by the tomb of the eponymous saint, which draws numerous
pilgrims; Asilah, where walls pierced by mysteriously screened windows enclose
narrow, secretive streets; Larache, a charmingly Andalusian town; and Tangier,
which looks over the Straits of Gibraltar towards Spain and Europe.
MOULAY
BOUSSELHAM
AT L A N T I C
OCEAN
Sidi-el-
Hachemi
Sidi-Allal-
Agriculture in the region of Kenitra Tazi
u o
eb
Wa d i S
Morhrane
0 kilometres 20
0 miles 20
THAMUSIDA
Sidi Yahya-
KENITRA du-Rharb
MEHDYA
Sights at a Glance
FOREST OF
1 Salé
SIDI BOUKNADEL
2 Sidi Bouknadel
Âïn-Johra
3 Mehdya
4 Forest of Mamora
SALÉ Sidi-Allal-el-
5 Kenitra Bahraoui
6 Thamusida RABAT
7 Moulay Bousselham
Wa
d
8 Larache
iB
ou
Re Tiflèt
9 Lixus Casablanca gr
eg
0 Asilah
q M’Soura Stone Circle
w Ksar el-Kebir
e Souk el-Arba du Rharb
r Banasa
For hotels and restaurants see pp306–7 and p321

N O R T H E R N AT L A N T I C C O A S T  89
Tangier
Tetouan
ASILAH
M’SOURA
STONE CIRCLE
Sidi el-
Yamani
LIXUS
LARACHE
Migratory birds in the lagoon at Moulay Bousselham
Wa
iLd
ou
os
k
KSAR EL-KEBIR
Kehdadra Getting Around
Arbaoua A motorway (with toll) provides a
Lalla- direct link between Rabat and Tangier.
Mimouna
Even when driving on a motorway,
care should be taken: animals or people
may try to cross unexpectedly. The N1
Ouezzane goes further inland, reaching the coast
at Asilah. A bus service running from
SOUK EL-ARBA Rabat and Tangier provides transport
DU RHARB to and from most places.
Souk-Tleta-
du-Rharb
BANASA
Mechra-Bel-Ksiri
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Tihili
Dar-Gueddari Track
Railway
Msâada
Sidi-Slimane
Sidi-Kacem
Dar-Bel-
Amri Fès
MAM
ORA
El-Kansera
Khemis-Âït-
Yadine
Meknès
Khemisset
Colourfully painted doors in the medina at Asilah

of Sidi Abdallah ben

Hassoun (patron of Salé, of
boatmen and of travellers)
has an unusual dome that
abuts the Grand Mosque.
Further north along the coast
the marabout of Sidi Moussa
overlooks the sea.
2 Sidi Bouknadel
Road Map C2. 10 km (6 miles) north
of Salé on the N1 to Kenitra. * 6,900.
@ Rabat. ( Sun.
The tropical gardens in Sidi Bouknadel The tropical gardens (Jardins

Exotiques) just outside Sidi
1 Salé At the entrance to the town Bouknadel were laid out in 1951
Road Map C2. West of Rabat, on
(from the direction of Rabat) by the horticulturist Marcel
the right bank of Wadi Bou Regreg. stands the 13th-century François and are today owned
* 710,000. k Rabat-Salé,10 km Bab el-Mrisa (Gate by the State. Some
(6 miles) on the Meknès road. £ of the Sea). This was 1,500 species native
@ Route de Casablanca. n Rabat; the entrance to the to the Antilles, South
(0537) 66 06 63. _ Festival and night- maritime arsenal built America and Asia
time Candle Procession (on the eve by Yacoub el-Mansour, grow in the garden.
of Mouloud). ( Thu. and a canal linking
Wadi Bou Regreg to Y Jardins Exotiques
Founded in about the 11th the harbour passed Open 9am–6:30pm
century, Salé was fortified and through it. daily. &
embellished at the end of the Within the town,
13th century by the Merinids. near Rue Bab el- Environs
They built a medersa, a mosque, a Khebbaz, the main Two kilometres
medical school and a magnificent street through the (1.25 miles) to the
aqueduct, which can still be seen medina, are the north is the Musée
from the road to Kenitra. During Kissaria and souks, Chest, Musée Dar Dar Belghazi, with
the Middle Ages, Salé was a busy both filled with Belghazi its collection of fine
port, used by traders from the artisans and traders. objects, including
northern Mediterranean, and in Nearby are the Grand Mosque jewellery, kaftans, marriage
1609 it provided sanctuary for and the medersa. A doorway belts, carved wooden doors,
refugees from Andalusia. Salé framed by a horseshoe arch and minbars, pottery and musical
shared the lucrative business of covered with a carved wooden instruments. This privately
privateering with its neighbour porch leads into the medersa. run museum was established
and rival Rabat (see pp68–85), Built during the reign of the by a master woodcarver,
with which it came into conflict. Merinid ruler Abou el-Hassan, with bequests from artists
When piracy was brought to an it is notable for its central tower and collectors.
end in the 18th century, the surrounded by a colonnaded
town went into decline. gallery covered in zellij tilework E Musée Dar Belghazi
In the 20th century, however, and carved plaster and wood. Km 47, Route de Kenitra. Tel (0537) 82
Salé found prosperity once The mihrab has a decorated 21 78. Open 9am–5pm daily. &
more, as a major centre of the wooden ceiling.
crafts industry. The Seamen’s Cemetery, in
the northeast of 3 Mehdya
the town, is dotted
Road Map C2. 39 km (24 miles) from
with the marabouts Salé on the N1 to Kenitra, at km 29
(shrines) of such turning onto the Mehdya-Plage road.
holy men as Sidi * 5,800. @ Kenitra, then by taxi.
ben Achir. In the
16th century, he This small coastal resort is much
was credited with frequented by the inhabitants
the power to calm of Rabat and Kenitra. On the
the waves so as estuary of Wadi Sebou, it stands
allow vessels to on the site of what may have
enter the harbour been a Carthagenian trading
The walls of Salé, near Bab el-Mrisa safely. The marabout post in the 5th century BC, and
then an Almohad naval base,

which was known at the time
as El Mamora (“the populous
one”). Later, the town was
occupied by the Portuguese,
the Spanish and the Dutch,
and was finally captured by
Moulay Ismaïl (see p57) at the
end of the 17th century.
The kasbah which stands
on the plateau, dominating
the estuary, still has its original Pieces of bark stripped from the cork-oak
walls, which were built by the
Spanish, and its moated factory in Sidi Yahia eucalyptus irrigation. It is now one of
bastions. The monumental wood is turned into a pulp that Morocco’s major agricultural
gate, built by Moulay Ismaïl, is used in paper-making and the areas, specializing in rice, sugar
leads to the governor’s palace, manufacture of artificial silk. beet, cotton and citrus fruits.
which has a central courtyard, Being intensively exploited
rooms, outbuildings, hammam and degraded by the grazing
and mosque. of cattle, sheep and goats, the
forest is becoming increasingly
Environs bare. However, enough cover
The Sidi Bourhaba Lake, 27 km remains to allow a refreshingly
(17 miles) along the Mehdya- cool walk in summer, when
Plage road, is a large bird wood pigeons, kites, rollers and
sanctuary: thousands of birds, spotted flycatchers can be seen.
such as teal and coot, rest here
during their migration between
Europe and sub-Saharan Africa. 5 Kenitra
Road Map C2. * 300,000. £
O Sidi Bourhaba Lake
@ Rabat. ( Mon & Sat.
Tel (0537) 74 72 09. National Education
Centre for the Environment of Sidi Established in 1913 in the early
Bourhaba Nature Reserve: Open days of the French Protectorate,
9am–3:30pm Mon–Fri. from 1933 to 1955 this town The Roman baths at Thamusida, on the
was known as Port-Lyautey. banks of Wadi Sebou
Nowadays, Kenitra consists of
4 Forest of Mamora distinct districts: residential areas 6 Thamusida
Road Map C2. East of Rabat on the N1 with villas, a European-style town Road Map D2. 55 km (34 miles)
to Kenitra or the N6 to Meknès. centre and poorer suburbs. northeast of Rabat, 17 km (10.5 miles)
In the harbour, on the right northeast of Kenitra. Motorway exit:
The Forest of Mamora, between bank of Wadi Sebou, regional Kenitra N.
Wadi Sebou and Wadi Bou produce from the Rharb (such
Regreg, covers an area 60 km (37 as citrus fruit, cork, cotton, On the N1, at the milestone
miles) long and 30 km (19 miles) cereals and pulp for papermaking) reading “Kenitra 14 km, Sidi
wide. Although the forest is now are unloaded for use in local Allal Tazi 28 km”, a track heading
planted mostly with eucalyptus, industries. Once a marshy area westwards leads to this ancient
which grows much faster than where malaria was rife (but site on Wadi Sebou. It was
other species, large tracts of it still used for extensive stock- inhabited by the Romans from
are still covered with cork-oak, farming), the alluvial plain of the the 2nd century BC to the 3rd
which is grown for its bark. At a Rharb has been transformed by century AD.
Part of the walls can still
be seen, along with the outline
of the Roman army camp (with
streets intersecting at right
angles) and the site’s major
feature, the praetorium
(headquarters), with columns
and pilasters. To the northeast
the remains of baths and a
temple with three chambers,
or cellae, can be made out.
North of Wadi Sebou are
Fishing harbour at Mehdya, on Wadi Sebou vestiges of the harbour docks.
A horse-drawn carriage in Plaza Zelaka, Asilah
7 Moulay
Bousselham
Road Map D2. 48 km (30 miles)
south of Larache. * 900. @ Boat
trips: available from Café Milano.
_ Moussem (early summer).
The small town of Moulay

Bousselham is a coastal resort
that is very popular with
Moroccans. The mosque and the
tomb of Moulay Bousselham
tower above the ocean and the
Merja Zerga lagoon. As the burial
place of Moulay Bousselham, the Andalusian-style fountain on Place de la Libération, Larache
10th-century holy man, it is also
a major place of pilgrimage, an important centre of trade on 9 Lixus
attracting many followers in the left bank of Wadi Loukkos. In Road Map D1. 5 km (3 miles)
late June and early July. the 16th century it was used as northeast of Larache on the N1.
The life of the holy man is a base by corsairs from Algiers @ from Larache.
wreathed in legends associated and Turkey, and was subject to
with the ocean and its perils. reprisals by Portuguese forces This ancient site, which
The Moulay Bousselham from Asilah. The town passed commands a view of the
sandbar is, indeed, highly to Spain in 1610, and was then ocean, of Wadi Loukkos and
dangerous: the waves come taken by Moulay Ismaïl at the of Larache, is a UNESCO’s
crashing in over the reefs and end of the 17th century. During World Heritage Site. According
onto the beach. The waters of the Spanish Protectorate (1911– to legend, this is where one
the lagoon are calmer; boat 56) Larache was held by Spain. of the Labours of Hercules –
trips are organized to see the The medina is reached from picking the golden apples
thousands of birds – herons, Place de la Libération, a very in the Garden of the
pink flamingoes, gannets and Spanish plaza, and through Bab Hesperides – took place. The
sheldrake – that come to the el-Khemis, a brick-built gate ancient Roman writer Plinius,
lagoon on their migrations in roofed with glazed tiles. In the writing in the 7th century BC,
December and January. Boat fabrics souk – the kissaria (socco described Lixus as the most
trips around the lagoon depart de la alcaicería) – a market, offers ancient Phoenician colony in
from the small fishing harbour. a wide range of goods. Narrow the western Mediterranean.
streets lined with houses with In the 7th century BC the
floral decoration lead down Phoenicians established a
towards the harbour. Bab el- trading post here, serving as
Kasba separates the southern a stage on the Gold Route.
edge of the fabrics souk from After it had been taken by the
Rue Moulay el-Mehdi, a street Romans between 40 and 45 AD,
covered with overhead arches Lixus became a colony and a
that leads to an octagonal centre of the manufacture of
minaret and a terrace over- garum, sauce made with scraps
looking the meandering Wadi of fish marinaded in brine from
Loukkos, salt-marshes and salting vats. The Romans
The town of Moulay Bousselham and the the Lixus promontory. abandoned Lixus at the
Merja Zerga lagoon Not far from Lixus is the end of the 3rd century AD.
Château de la Cigogne (Stork’s
Castle), a fortress that was built
8 Larache in 1578 by the Saadian rulers
Road Map D1. * 95,000. @ from
and then remodelled by the
Tangier, Rabat. ( Sun. Spanish in the 17th century.
It is closed to the public.
Set a little way back from It is pleasant to stroll along
major roads, Larache is both an the seafront – the “balcony
Andalusian and an Arab town. of the Atlantic”. Nearby is the
The modern part bears obvious Moorish market. Finally, in the
signs of the Spanish Protectorate. Catholic Cemetery, the tomb
Established in the 7th of the French writer Jean Genet
century by Arab conquerors, by (1910–86) can be found, lying The Roman ruins of Lixus, set on a
the 11th century Larache was facing the ocean. magnificent promontory
The wall built around the city at

that time reduced its inhabited
area by half.
The vats in which meat and
fish were salted and garum
was made – Morocco’s major
industry in Roman times – can
be seen around the edges of
the site. In the amphitheatre,
with its circular arena, public
games took place.
The Acropolis above the
town has its own walls; only on
the western side, where there is
a sheer drop, do they coincide
with the town walls. An apsidal
building, preceded by an atrium
with a cistern, has been
excavated. The Great Temple
(1st century BC– 1st century
AD), to the south, features an
arcaded area (courtyard). The Colourful display of fruit on a stall in the market at Asilah
cella, where the god dwelt, on
the axis of the peristyle, backs with houses fronted by balconies monolithic standing stones
onto an apsidal wall; opposite with restrained mashrabiyya ranging in height from 50 cm
is a large semicircular apse with (wooden latticework panel used (20 inches) to 5 m (16 ft) and
a mosaic floor. as a screen), and with blue-or surrounding a burial area about
green-painted woodwork. 55 m (180 ft) in circumference.
The Criquia jetty, northwest Unique in the Maghreb and
0 Asilah of the town, overlooks a tiny the Sahara, by its sheer size, this
Road Map D1. * 25,000. £ 2 km cemetery with tombstones monument is reminiscent of
(1.5 miles) north of town. @ from covered in glazed tiles. At the foot those seen in Spain. The type
Tangier or Rabat. _ Cultural Festival of the square tower on Place Ibn of pottery decorated with
(Aug). ( Thu. Khaldoun stands Bab el-Bahr impressions of cardium shells
(Gate of the Sea). On the opposite and bronze weapons, which
Established by the Phoenicians, side of the square, Bab Homar excavations have brought to
Asilah was an important town in (Gate of the Land), with the light, are also identical to
Mauretania’s pre-Roman period Portuguese royal coat of arms, Spanish examples.
(when coins were minted here), leads out from the ramparts
and also under the Romans. It and into the new town.
was captured by the Portuguese In summer, the Centre
in 1471 and became a centre Hassan II des Rencontres
of trade with connections to Internationales, in Rue de
the Mediterranean countries. la Kasbah, within the walls,
The town came under Moroccan hosts cultural events and
control in 1691, during the reign exhibitions. Asilah is also
of Moulay Ismaïl. frequented by painters, who
At the end of the 19th century, are fond of marking the walls
Raissouli, a pretender to power with signs of their passing.
and a brigand, extortioner and
kidnapper, made Asilah his
base. In 1906, taking advantage q M’Soura
of the intrigues that surrounded Stone Circle
the sovereign, Abdul Aziz, he Road Map D1. El-Utad to
assumed the mantle of pasha Chouahed. 27 km (17 miles) southeast
then that of governor of the of Asilah on the N1, then R417
Jebala. He built himself a palace towards Tetouan.
facing the sea, from which he
was expelled by the Spanish This Neolithic site is reached
in 1924. via a 7-km (4-mile) track running
This small Andalusian-style from Sidi el-Yamani towards
town is enclosed within Souk et-Tnine. Perhaps the
ramparts. The narrow streets burial place of an important One of the 200 standing stones at the
are paved or limed, and lined local ruler, it consists of 200 M’Soura Neolithic stone circle
Sugarcane plantation in the fertile region around Ksar el-Kebir
w Ksar el-Kebir e Souk el-Arba caldarium and tepidarium

Road Map D1. * 107,000. £ du Rharb (hot and warm rooms) with
Moulay el-Mehdi (approx. 3 km/ underfloor heating, and
Road Map D2. * 38,000. £ frigidarium (cold room) can
2 miles). @ from Tangier. ( Sun. @ Rabat, Tangier. ( Wed.
be distinguished. Wall paintings
The town takes its name from A major agricultural centre and a brick floor paved in a
a great fortress which, during on the northwest border of herringbone pattern can
the Almoravid and Almohad the Rharb, Souk el-Arba du be made out in another
periods, controlled the road Rharb is especially busy on bathhouse at a lower level.
leading to the ports along the Wednesdays, when the souk A famous document
Straits of Gibraltar. is held. The town’s position engraved on bronze was
It was at Wadi el-Makhazin on the intersection of roads discovered at Banasa. Known
nearby that the Battle of the leading to Tangier, Rabat, as the Banasa Table, it was an
Three Kings took place in Meknès and the coastal town edict by which Caracalla
1578. The conflict has been of Moulay Bousselham has granted the province relief
described as the “last crusade made it a key staging post. from taxes in return for lions,
undertaken by the Christians elephants and other animals
of the Mediterranean”. It was that the emperor desired for
instigated by the Saadian sultan r Banasa public spectacles in Rome.
El-Mutawakkil, who, having Road Map D2. 103 km (64 miles)
From the N1 or freeway,
been driven from Morocco, northeast of Rabat on the N1 or Rabat- Banasa is reached by taking
was zealous for a crusade. In Tangier freeway (Kenitra North exit). the R413, then, 3 km (2 miles)
alliance with Sebastião I, king before Souk Tleta du Rharb,
of Portugal, he made a bid This ancient town, an inland by turning off onto the P4234.
to win back his kingdom. port on Wadi Sebou and the As it approaches the site, the
Sebastião, El-Mutawakkil and most developed in Mauretania road is reduced to a track.
their opponent, the Saadian Tingitana, was a centre of
sultan Abd el-Malik (who was ceramic production from the
victorious over the invaders), 3rd century and during the 1st
all died in the battle. Moulay century BC. A Roman colony
Ahmed, brother of Abd el-Malik, from 33 to 25 BC, Banasa was
succeeded him, becoming a prosperous and bustling
known not only as Ahmed commercial town until the
el-Mansour (“the Victorious”) end of the 3rd century AD.
but also as Ahmed el-Dhebi The entrance to the town,
(“the Golden”), because of through a vaulted gateway,
the ransom that he exacted. leads to the basilica and the
Ksar el-Kebir is, today, a paved and arcaded forum.
sizeable country town. A South of the forum rises the
particularly large souk is held capitol, where several altars
here on Sundays: goods on stand before the temple’s five
offer include the produce cellae (chambers). In the public
of local market gardens, as baths to the west, the various
well as that of the area’s olive rooms for the Roman ritual of Stele with an inscription in Latin, standing
plantations and citrus groves. bathing – robing rooms, a in the ruins of Banasa
Roman Towns in Morocco

Towns were established in Morocco during the reigns of Juba II and Ptolemy, kings of
Mauretania who ruled under the aegis of Rome. Under Roman control, they developed
either into coloniae (colonies such as Lixus and Banasa) or municipiae (free towns such as
Sala and Volubilis). The inhabitants, who grew prosperous through the cultivation of the
land, endowed their towns with such civic features as forums, basilicas, capitols and
triumphal arches. Adapting to the Roman way of life, they built houses with columned
courtyards and mosaic floors in the Roman style, and imported bronze sculptures from
Egypt and Italy and pottery from Etruria. Public and private baths fulfilled the desire for
personal cleanliness and also acted as places in which to socialize. The arcades along
the decumanus maximus (main thoroughfares) were filled with shops, while cottage
industries were established around the edges of the towns.
Roman Rule
Juba II was made king of
Mauretania by Augustus.
After Ptolemy’s death, the
province was administered
by Rome under Claudius.
Triumphal arches were
built during the reigns of
Juba II (52 BC–AD 23), who Commodius and Caracalla.
married the daughter of Ptolemy, who succeeded Juba II, In the late 3rd century,
Cleopatra and Mark Antony, was murdered in Rome in AD 40. under Diocletian, the
turned Mauretania into a Under him, Mauretania became country was administered
highly prosperous country. completely romanized. with the province of Spain.
Mauretania’s cities were

centres of trade and
administration, as well as
garrison towns. As in Rome,
the focal point was the forum
(a market place and public
area) and the basilica,
simultaneously a monetary
exchange, law court and
meeting place. The capitol
was the city’s religious centre.
The basilica and the columns of the capitol at Volubilis
Art
As Rome imposed political unity, Head of the young Bacchus,
so Roman artistic influence spread with soft, rounded
throughout the Maghreb. features and an effeminate
appearance, in the artistic
style that prevailed at the
time in Rome.
Roman funerary art

can be seen in Morocco.
Many stelae (free-
standing stone columns) Mosaic depicting Aeolus,
take the shape of a Roman god of wind, whose
pointed rectangle carved breath restores nature to
with a figure dressed life. It comes from the floor
in a full-length tunic. of the house in Volubilis.
CASABLANCA
Straddling east and west, Casablanca, the commercial and
financial capital of Morocco, is a baffling metropolis where
tradition and modernity co-exist. A city where skyscrapers
stand in stark contrast to the small shops of the medina,
with its narrow, winding streets, this is where the
prosperous rub shoulders with paupers.
In the 7th century, Casablanca was no profound change. Against expert advice,
more than a small Berber settlement Marshal Lyautey, the first resident-
clinging to the slopes of the Anfa hills. governor, proceeded with plans to make
However, for strategic and commercial Casablanca the country’s economic hub.
reasons, it was already attracting the To realize this vision, he hired the services
attention of foreign powers. In 1468, the of town planners and modernized the port.
town was sacked by the Portuguese, For almost 40 years, the most innovative
who wrought wholesale destruction on architects worked on this huge building
the city’s privateer ships. Then, in the project. Casablanca continued to expand
18th century, with the sultanate of Sidi even after independence. Futuristic high-
Mohammed ben Abdallah, Dar el-Beïda rise buildings and a colossal mosque
(meaning “White House” – “Casa Blanca” sending its laser beams towards Mecca
in Spanish) acquired a new significance. once again expressed the city’s forward-
This was thanks to its harbour, which looking spirit. With about 4 million
played a pivotal role in the sugar, tea, inhabitants, and a further 5 million in
wool and corn markets of the Western the perfecture, Casablanca is, today,
world. But it was in the 20th century, one of the four largest metropolises
under the French Protectorate (see pp60– on the African continent, and its port
61), that Casablanca underwent the most is the busiest in Morocco.
The city of Casablanca with the ocean in the background

Interior of Hassan II Mosque, the second-largest religious structure in the world
Exploring Casablanca D SIDI M

A RS I
L ERVD D I M O O H A M
OEUV A HA ME
The centre of the new town (Ville Nouvelle) O UBL
BB O
MM
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revolves around two focal points: the BO
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Place des Nations Unies and the Place AR
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JD
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ramparts, while the Parc de la Ligue Arabe,
EN
U
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Casablanca’s green lung, extends to the
B O U L E VA R
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AN
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southeast. Further out, towards the west, is RAAU
A UM
MOUL
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the residential district of Anfa and the coastal J EU
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AY
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resort of Aïn Diab. The Boulevard de la
D
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Corniche leads to the monumental Hassan II
TA H A R
YOUS
YOUS
Mosque. The Quartier Habous, a modern
SEF
RU
RUE E
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medina built in the 1920s, also features DE GOULMI
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some interesting architecture. BO
UL
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Sights at a Glance B
U O
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Avenues and Boulevards Park PL. OUED

PL. OUED
EL MAKHAZINE
EL MAKHAZINE
RU
2 Avenue des Forces Armées 5 Parc de la Ligue Arabe FA
BO
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Squares L AM
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8 Hassan II Mosque pp106– U EE N

AY
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4 Place Mohammed V AV
107
LA
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Y
Districts
RU
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6 Old Medina
q Musée du Judaïsme PL. DE LA
7 Port PL. DEARABE
LIGUE LA
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r Mohammedia
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Casablanca and its Environs Avenue
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CASABLANCA N1
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Area of Main Map Detail of a 1930s façade in Casablanca

CASABLANCA  101
Getting Around
Allow at least one day to explore Casablanca.
The old medina and the new town, with
their fine architectural heritage, are best seen
AB
DA on foot. By contrast, the Quartier Habous
and the Hassan II Mosque can be reached
LL
A
H
only by motorized transport. Parking is not

a problem as there are many car parks.
It is also possible to travel around
BO
Casablanca by bus or petit taxi.

UL
Bus and tram routes serve

EV
both the city centre and

AR
D
outlying districts.
RU E J E
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Stained-glass window in the Church of

IG
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H
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Notre-Dame-de-Lourdes
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and is one of the square’s

finest buildings. In 1934, the
11storey Moretti Milone
apartment block, at the corner
of Boulevard Houphouët
Boigny, was the first highrise
building in central Casablanca.
Boulevard Houphouët Boigny,
lined with shops and restaurants,
runs from the square to the
port. At the end, on the right,
the marabout of Sidi Belyout,
patron saint and protector
of Casablanca, stands in stark
contrast to the neighbouring
residential buildings.
The Moretti Milone apartment block, one of No. 208 Boulevard Mohammed V, faced
the highest in 1934 with friezes and balconies
2 Avenue des
1Place des Forces Armées 3 Boulevard
Nations Unies Royales Mohammed V
South of the old medina. South of the old medina, running Running from Place des Nations Unies
to Boulevard Hassan Seghir.
At the beginning of the 20th between Place Oued elMakhazine
century, this was still no more and Place Zellaga. Running through the city like a
than a market square, a place spine, this boulevard links Place
which, by evening, would Lined with highrise buildings, des Nations Unies with the
become the haunt of story major hotels such as the railway station in the east of the
tellers and snake charmers. Sheraton and Royal Mansour, city. When it was built in 1915, it
Today, it is the heart with airline offices was intended to be the major
of the new town, and travel agents artery through the commercial
a hub where and the towering, heart of Casablanca. On both
major thorough futuristic glass sides, covered arcades house
fares converge. building of Omnium shops and restaurants.
When the square was Nord Africain (ONA), A raised strip sections off
laid out in 1920, it was this avenue marks traffic and widens into a square
known as Place de the boundary of the level with the Central Market.
France, but was later Window of the commercial district. The highrise buildings here
renamed. Beneath Excelsior hotel Further development are notable for their façades,
the arcades of 1930s is planned for its which feature loggias, columns,
apartment blocks are rows of continuation towards the zellij tilework and geometric
brasserie terraces and souvenir Mosque of Hassan II. carvings. Peculiar to the
shops. In the northeast corner
of the square, the clocktower,
which dates from 1910, was
demolished in 1940 and then
rebuilt to an identical design.
At the time that it was built,
the clock symbolized colonial
rule, indicating to the
population that it should
now keep in time with an
industrial society.
At the Hyatt Regency Hotel
memories of Humphrey Bogart
and Ingrid Bergman, stars of
the famous film Casablanca,
made in 1943 by Michael
Curtiz, hang on the walls. In the
southeast corner of the square
is the Excelsior Hotel (1914–
16), with Moorish friezes and
balconies, which was the first
of Morocco’s Art Deco hotels The Glaoui residential block, built in 1922 by M. Boyer
CASABLANCA  103
The Palais de Justice, built in the Moorish style in 1922
buildings of this period is the apartment blocks. This moussem and the performance
mixture of styles – Art Deco, pedestrianized street is very of the ahwach, a Berber dance.
on the one hand, seen in white popular with shoppers. Behind stands the Palais de
façades of simple design, and In Rue Mohammed el-Quori, Justice (law courts, designed by
the typically Moroccan, more off Boulevard Mohammed V, J. Marrast and completed in 1922).
decorative style on the other. stands the Rialto. This renovated The strong verticality of the
Among the finest of these cinema is renowned for its fine Moorish doorway, with its awning
buildings are three residential ornamentation, stained-glass of green tiles, contrasts with the
blocks: the Glaoui (designed by windows and Art Deco lighting. horizontal lines of the arcaded
M. Boyer, 1922), on the corner gallery, which are emphasized
of Rue El-Amraoui Brahim; the ( Central Market by a carved frieze running the
Bessonneau (H. Bride, 1917), Boulevard Mohammed V. length of the building.
opposite the market; and the Open 7am–2pm daily. Two buildings set slightly
Asayag (M. Boyer, 1932), at back abut the façade of the
the corner of Boulevard law courts on either side. On
Hassan Seghir. The latter, 4 Place the right is the Consulat de
very innovative at the time Mohammed V France (French Consulate, by
it was built, is five storeys North of the Parc de la Ligue Arabe.
A. Laprade, 1916), whose
high and has three towers gardens contain an equestrian
set around a central hub. From Exemplifying the architecture statue of Marshal Lyautey, by
the fourth storey upwards, of the Protectorate, this square, Cogné (1938), which stood in
terraces extend the studio the administrative heart of the centre of the square until
apartments. Buildings at Casablanca, combines the Moroccan independence. On
numbers 47, 67 and 73 are monumentality of French the left, in the northeastern
also fine examples, with architecture with corner, is the
overhanging loggias and Moorish sobriety. Cercle Militaire
rounded balconies. This is the (by M. Boyer).
Another particular feature of location of the To the north is
Boulevard Mohammed V is its Préfecture, the the Post Office
covered arcades, which are law courts, the (A. Laforgue,
similar to the shopping arcades central post office, 1920), fronted
built during the same period banks and cultural Zellij decoration on the façade by an open arcade
(the 1920s) along the Champs- organizations. of the Post Office decorated with
Élysées in Paris. Among the The Préfecture zellij tilework and
most interesting of these (by M. Boyer, 1937), over semicircular arches, which
arcades is the Passage du which towers a Tuscan- leads through to an Art Deco
Glaoui, which links Boulevard style campanile 50 m central hall within.
Mohammed V to Rue Allal ben- (164 ft) high, stands on the Opposite, along Rue de Paris,
Abdallah. Lit by prismatic lamps, southeastern side of the a small area of greenery where
the arcade is punctuated by square. Its buildings are set people like to stroll gives a more
glass rotundas. Passage Sumica, around three courtyards, picturesque feel to the square,
opposite Passage du Glaoui, is each with a tropical garden. in the centre of which is a
closer to the Art Deco style. This The central stairway is framed monumental fountain dating
runs through to Rue du Prince by two huge paintings by from 1976. At certain times of
Moulay Abdallah, which also Jacques Majorelle (see p247) day, the fountain plays music
contains some notable 1930s depicting the festivities of a and gives light displays.
ben Abdallah. Behind the

bastion, the marabout (shrine)
with a double crown of merlons
contains the Tomb of Sidi Allal
el-Kairouani, who became
Casablanca’s first patron saint
in 1350. Bab el-Marsa (Gate of
the Sea), which opens onto
Boulevard des Almohades, also
dates from the 18th century. It
was at this spot that the French
disembarked in July 1907.
7 Port
East of the old medina.
Casablanca is Morocco’s main

port. Covering an area of 1.8 sq
A long, straight walkway in the Parc de la Ligue Arabe km (0.70 sq miles), the port was
built during the Protectorate
5 Parc de la a master-craftsman from Chartres. and is one of the largest artificial
Ligue Arabe To the southwest is the Villa ports in the world. A groyne
des Arts displaying contem- protects it from the pounding
South of Place Mohammed V porary Moroccan paintings. of the ocean that destroyed
(between Boulevard Rachidi and several earlier constructions.
Boulevard Mohammed Zerktouni). R Église du Sacré-Cœur The port is equipped with
Rond-point de l’Europe. Open only for ultra-modern commercial,
Laid out by the architect concerts and other cultural events. fishing and leisure facilities.
A. Laprade in 1919, this huge E Villa des Arts Access to the port complex
garden incorporates café 30 Bd Brahim Roudani. Tel (0522) 29 is via the fishing harbour. On
terraces and is a popular place 50 87. Open 10am–7pm Tue–Sun. the seafront in the port itself,
for a stroll. Avenues lined with ∑ fondationona.ma as well as along the avenue
impressively tall palm trees, leading down to it, some
ficus, arcades and pergolas excellent fish restaurants are
frame some stunning formal 6 Old Medina to be found (see pp321–2).
flowerbeds. The streets Between Boulevard des Almohades A multi-million dirham
surrounding the park, including and Place des Nations Unies. development of towering hotels,
Rue d’Alger, Rue du Parc and restaurants, shops, offices and
Boulevard Moulay-Youssef, At the beginning of the 20th apartments, together with a
contain Art Nouveau and Art century, Casablanca consisted marina, is changing the shoreline
Deco houses. only of the old medina, which between the port and the
Northwest of the park stands itself comprised no more than Hassan II Mosque. The first phase
the Église du a few thousand was completed in 2015.
Sacré-Cœur, inhabitants. The
built in 1930–52 walls around the
by Paul old town were
Tournon. A originally pierced
white concrete by four gates,
twin-towered two of which
building with survive today.
an Art Deco Bab Marrakech
flavour to its A cannon in the sqala, facing the port and Bab el-Jedid,
façade, it is now and onto the ocean on the western
deconsecrated side, face onto
and used for cultural events. Boulevard Tahar el-Alaoui. A
To the southeast stands daily market, with jewellers,
the Église Notre-Dame-de- barbers, public letter-writers
Lourdes (1956). Its stained- and so on, stretches out along
glass windows depict scenes the length of the walls.
from the life of the Virgin Opposite the fishing harbour
against motifs taken from is the sqala, a fortified bastion
Moroccan carpets. They built in the 18th century, during The bustling port of Casablanca, which is
are the work of G. Loire, the reign of Sidi Mohammed undergoing a major redevelopment
CASABLANCA  105
Architecture of the 1920s and 1930s

In 1907, when innovative architects set to work to create buildings in a range of
contemporary styles, Casablanca began to look like a huge building site. In the early
1920s, numerous teams of architects were working in the city. Whatever the style, avant-
garde tendencies were often counterbalanced by the traditional Moroccan style.
Thus, as the architects drew on the repertoire of Neo-Classicism, Art Nouveau and Art
Deco, which were fashionable at the time, they also took inspiration from the Moorish
style that Europeans found so fascinating. Towards the end of the 1920s and into the
early 1930s, a new taste for simplicity became apparent. Emphasizing shape and outline
at the expense of decoration, this gave prominence to the interplay of convex and
concave shapes, and to balconies and bow windows. Another significant factor was the
expectations of the colonial population and of European speculators: lifts, bathrooms,
kitchens and parking areas appeared.
Façades
The façades of residential blocks were
encrusted with putti, fruit, flowers and
pilasters and featured roofs covered in
green tiles, stucco and zellij tilework.
Colonial houses, in the suburbs, were
built in a style that was a cross between
a grand Parisian town house and a
Moroccan-style seaside residence.
Wrought-iron balconies, like this one from
the Darius Boyer House, are typical of the Art
The dome is an example of
Nouveau ironwork that often graced French
the Western use of a Moorish windows and balconies.
architectural element.
Balconies are an
adaptation to the
sunny climate and
bright light.
Mosaic
decoration
Mosaic decoration on
the law courts consists of
multicoloured zellij tilework
in geometric shapes overlying
a frieze of stucco carved
with inscriptions.
1930s architecture
features traditional
Moorish elements,
including semicircular This building has an elegantly classical Casablanca’s main post
arches and decoration appearance, with decoration consisting office has a loggia of
in the form of pretty of columns, belvederes and a dome with semicircular arches and
carved stucco. Art Nouveau motifs. zellij tilework.
8 Hassan II Mosque
With a prayer hall that can accommodate 25,000, the Hassan II Mosque
is the second-largest religious building in the world after the mosque in
Mecca. The complex covers 9 hectares (968,774 sq ft), two-thirds of it
built over the sea. The minaret, the lighthouse of Islam, is 200 m (656 ft)
high, and two laser beams reaching over a distance of 30 km (18.5 miles)
shine in the direction of Mecca. The building was designed by Michel
Pinseau, 35,000 craftsmen worked on it, and it opened in 1993. With
carved stucco, zellij tilework, a painted cedar ceiling and marble, onyx
and travertine cladding, it is a monument to Moroccan architectural
virtuosity and craftsmanship.
. The Minaret
Its size – 25 m (82 ft)
wide and 200 m (656 ft)
high – and its decoration
make this an exceptional
building.
Fountains
These are decorated
with zellij tilework and
framed with marble
arches and columns.
Marble
Covering the columns of
the prayer hall and seen
on doorways, fountains
and stairs, marble is
ubiquitous, sometimes
used in combination
with granite and onyx.
KEY
1 Columns
Minbar
The minbar, or pulpit, located 2 Mashrabiyya, screenwork at the
at the western end of the windows protects those within from
prayer hall, is particularly prying eyes.
ornate. It is decorated with 3 Hammam
verses from the Koran.
CASABLANCA  107
Women’s Gallery
Above two mezzanines VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
and hidden from view, this
gallery extends over 5,300
Accessible from the port,
sq m (57,000 sq ft) and can
southwards along the seafront.
hold up to 5,000 women.
Tel (0522) 48 28 89/86. 8 9am,
10am, 11am & 2pm Sun–Thu;
9am, 10am & 2pm Fri. &
Dome
The cedar-panelled interior
of the dome over the prayer
hall glistens with carved and
painted decoration.
Royal Door
This is decorated with
traditional motifs engraved
on brass and titanium.
Doors
Seen from the exterior,
these are double doors in
the shape of pointed arches
framed by columns. Many
are clad in incised bronze.
Stairway to the
Women’s Gallery
The stairway features
decorative woodcarving,
multiple arches and
marble, granite and onyx
columns, arranged in a
harmonious ensemble.
. Prayer Hall
Able to hold 25,000 faithful, the prayer hall
measures 200 m (656 ft) by 100 m (328 ft).
The central part of the roof can be opened
to the sky.
famous patisserie, which sells

pastries known as cornes de
gazelle (gazelles’ horns), fritters
and pastilla. There are also
shops specializing in curios
and collectors’ items, and they
can be good places to find Art
Deco objects. A wide range of
Moroccan rugs and carpets is
also on sale at the weekly
auction in the carpet souk.
Northwest of the Quartier
Habous is the Mahakma du
Pacha, a formal tribunal and
The copper and brass souk in the today one of the city’s eight
Quartier Habous préfectures (administrative
headquarters). The building
9 Quartier Habous (by A. Cadet, 1952), which
(New Medina) centres around a tall tower
and two courtyards, is a fine The Twin Center, shaped like the hull of a
In the southeast of the city centre, example of the adaptation of ship, and its two towers
near Boulevard Victor Hugo. traditional Arab architecture to
In the 1930s, in order to modern needs. The traditional 0 Casablanca
address the problem of an
expanding urban population
Arabic decoration of its 64
rooms is the work of Moroccan
Twin Center
and to prevent Casablanca’s craftsmen: it consists of carved At the intersection of Boulevard
underprivileged citizens stucco and zellij tilework on the Zerktouni and Boulevard El-Massira.
from being forced to settle in walls, carved cedarwood panels
insalubrious quarters, French on the ceiling and wrought Dominated by its two towers,
town planners laid out a new iron on the doors. which rise to a height of 100 m
medina (Nouvelle Medina). The Royal Palace, on (328 ft), this extensive complex
Land to the south of the the fringes of the Quartier des is proof and symbol of the city’s
existing city centre earmarked Habous and set in extensive economic importance. Built by
for this development was Mediterranean gardens, Ricardo Bofill and Elie Mouyal,
given over to the Habous, the was built in the 1920s by the it comprises offices, shopping
administration of religious Pertuzio brothers, whose aim malls and a hotel. By its outward
foundations, hence the new was to create a luxuriously appearance no less than in its
town’s name. appointed yet modern dwelling. infrastructure, the building
This new town – which did signals the economic role that
not, however, forestall the later P Mahakma du Pacha Casablanca plays on both the
development of shanty towns – Boulevard Victor Hugo. national and international stage.
was built in the traditional Arab + Royal Palace
style at the same time as Between Boulevard Victor Hugo and q Musée du
obeying modern town planning Rue Ahmed el-Figuigui. Closed to
and public health regulations. the public. Judaïsme Marocain
It contains public areas, such 81 Rue Chasseur Jules Gros, Quartier
as a market, shops, mosques, de l’Oasis. Tel (0522) 99 49 40. Open
a kissaria and baths, as well as 10am–5pm Mon–Fri, 11am–3pm Sun.
private dwellings (arranged ∑ casajewishmuseum.com
around a courtyard separated
from the street by a solid wall). The modernized Museum of
The new medina is another Moroccan Judaism contains
facet of colonial town planning displays of scarves, kaftans,
during the Protectorate, and prayer shawls and other
its flower-filled, arcaded streets religious objects, and a
offer the opportunity for a reconstructed synagogue.
stroll in a scenic quarter of the From Roman times up
city. While the most modest to independence in 1956,
houses are located around Morocco had a sizeable Jewish
the market, the finest are community. Today numbering
set around the mosque. some 5,000, Morocco’s Jews
Northeast of the medina are occupy prominent positions
the copper and brass Souk and Carpets displayed for sale in the in the spheres of politics,
Chez Bennis, Casablanca’s most Quartier Habous economics and culture.
Beautiful tilework on the exterior of the Hassan II Mosque
CASABLANCA  111
pools, hotels, restaurants,

fashionable nightclubs and an
institute of thalassotherapy.
The earliest establishments to
be built here – with the needs
of a wealthy clientèle in mind –
opened in the 1930s. A string of
public beach clubs, each one
rivalling its neighbour, lines the
Corniche, offering a variety of
pools and restaurants. The most
modern and fashionable is the
Tahiti Beach Club.
At the foot of the hill of Anfa,
near the Palais Ibn Séoud,
the foundation of the same
name houses a mosque and
one of the most comprehensive
libraries on the African
continent. At the western end
of the Corniche, 3 km (2 miles)
further on, the Marabout of Sidi
Abderrahman, perched on a
rock, is accessible only at low
tide. It attracts Muslim pilgrims
suffering from nervous disorders
and those who have had evil
spells cast on them.
r Mohammedia
28 km (17 miles) northeast of
The Anfa quarter occupies a hill overlooking the city Casablanca. £ @
w Anfa impression that the location At the beginning of the

Northwest of the city.
was to be the White House 20th century, Mohammedia
in Washington, they failed to (formerly called Fedala) was
Occupying a hill that overlooks prevent it from going ahead. nothing more than a kasbah.
Casablanca from the northwest, During the meeting, This changed in the 1930s,
Anfa is a residential quarter President Roosevelt when its port began to
with wide flower-lined avenues also formally pledged receive oil tankers. Today,
where luxurious homes with his support to Sultan petroleum accounts for
terraces, swimming pools and Mohammed V in his aim 16 per cent of all Moroccan
lush gardens bring to mind to obtain independence port traffic. Although
Beverly Hills. Since the 1930s, from France, thus opening the flaming chimneys
villas in a great variety of styles new avenues for Morocco of the refineries blight the
have been built here, and they in the postwar period. landscape, this town of over
constitute a catalogue of 300,000 inhabitants, now
successive architectural styles part of greater Casablanca,
and fashions. e Corniche is still residential. It has a
It was at the Hôtel d’Anfa, d’Aïn Diab golf course and a yacht
now demolished, that the West of the Mosque of Hassan II.
club. Its fine beaches and
historic meeting between US friendly atmosphere
president Franklin D. Roosevelt The Corniche d’Aïn have helped to turn
and British prime minister Diab has been an Mohammedia also
Winston Churchill took place upmarket part of into an upmarket
in January 1943, during World Casablanca since the El-Hank coastal resort for
War II, at which the date of the 1920s. Running from the lighthouse wealthy Moroccans.
Allied landings in Normandy El-Hank Lighthouse A visit to the
was decided. Although they (built in 1916) in the east, kasbah and the fish market can
got wind of the meeting, to the marabout of Sidi be followed by a stroll along the
the Germans were misled Abderrahman in the west, this seafront. From the port, the
by the literal translation of coastal avenue is lined with a clifftop walk offers fine views
“Casablanca”. Under the succession of tidal swimming of the sea and Mohammedia.
SOUTHERN
ATLANTIC COAST
Like the whole of Morocco’s Atlantic coastline, the area
south of Casablanca is of variable interest to visitors. It is,
however, worth the detour, as much for the architecture
of the fortified towns built by the Portuguese, such as
El-Jadida and Essaouira, as for the breathtaking coastal
scenery. In addition, there is also the coastal resort of
Oualidia, which has a very safe beach.
Morocco’s southern Atlantic coastal area stretch of coastline is industrial and visibly
contains many smaller towns and resorts, oriented toward the modern world: most
which are especially attractive to those of the country’s phosphate is produced
who wish to escape the frenetic activity here, the industry attracting a large
of the imperial cities. workforce from the interior.
This region, more than almost any other The entire coastline, punctuated by scenic
part of Morocco, has always had contact viewpoints over the ocean, is ideal for bird-
with the outside world. The Phoenicians, watching and palaeontology. Gourmets
then the Romans, established trading posts will also enjoy Oualidia’s famous oysters.
here. The Portuguese and the Spanish built The road, excellent from Casablanca
military strongholds and centres of trade to Essaouira, passes stunningly beautiful
along the coast, whose topography also deserted beaches that are ideal for surfing.
made it a haven for pirates. Fortified towns It winds on to Agadir, the great sardine-
like El-Jadida, Safi and, most especially, processing port and Morocco’s most popular
Essaouira bear witness to the Spanish and coastal destination. The wild landscape is
Portuguese contribution to Morocco’s dominated by the argan tree. Goats can
history. Under the French Protectorate, the often be seen climbing its branches to
region became the country’s economic feed on its fruit. The tree (see p131)
and administrative centre. Today, this produces the highly prized argan oil.
Fishing boats in the harbour at Imessouane, south of Cap Tafelney

The old Portuguese water cistern in El-Jadida
Exploring the Southern Atlantic Coast

This part of Morocco’s Atlantic coastline is punctuated by the
fortified towns of Azemmour, El-Jadida, Safi and Essaouira,
which were established by the Portuguese in the 15th and 16th
centuries. The road running inland from Settat to Boulaouane
crosses a stunningly beautiful plateau, carved out of the
landscape by Wadi Oum er-Rbia (Mother of Spring), where
all the colours of the splendid Doukkala region can be seen.
Further south, the road leading to Agadir offers interesting
tours up into the lower foothills of the High Atlas. In the 1970s,
the most accessible part of the foothills was given the name
Paradise Valley. The well-marked road that winds between
luxuriant cascades provides points of departure for hikes in
the mountains, and it eventually leads to Imouzzer des Ida
Outanane, a quiet summer resort.
Getting Around
A motorway runs between
Casablanca and El-Jadida, which
is a distance of 99 km (62 miles).
From here, the N1 goes to Agadir.
This major road goes inland from
El-Jadida as far as Essaouira, 360 km
(224 miles) from Casablanca, and
runs near or actually on the coast
for the 165 km (103 miles) between
Essaouira and Agadir. However,
the quickest route to Agadir is
by motorway via Marrakech. A
dual carriage-way runs between
Marrakech and Essaouira. The R301
is a minor road that follows the
coast between El-Jadida and
Essaouira, passing through Oualidia
and Safi, 241 km (150 miles) from
Casablanca. A motorway and the
N9 run inland from Casablanca
towards Settat (and Marrakech).
From Settat, the R316 leads to
Kasbah Boulaouane, from where
it is easy to rejoin the coast road.
Azemmour, on Wadi Oum er-Rbia

For hotels and restaurants see p308 and p323
S O U T H E R N AT L A N T I C C O A S T  115
Sights at a Glance
1 Settat
2 Kasbah Boulaouane
3 Azemmour
4 El-Jadida
5 Moulay Abdallah
6 Oualidia
7 Safi
8 Kasbah Hamidouch
9 Chiadma Region
0 Essaouira pp124–9
q Tamanar
w Tamri
Tour
The sqala (bastion) in the harbour at Essaouira
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Track
Railway
Summit
0 km 20
0 miles 20
A potter adding finishing touches to a tagine in Safi

century, it was the scene of a

battle that halted the advance
of the Portuguese towards the
interior. Moulay Ismaïl revitalized
the village by choosing to build
a kasbah here in 1710 – in an
attempt to pacify and control
the region.
The stone-built fortress is
encircled by a crenellated
wall set with bastions and
pierced by an angled gate
with three pointed arches.
Above the gate is an inscrip-
tion with the name of Moulay
Ismaïl and the date of the
A village near Settat, on the fertile coastal plain of Chaouia kasbah’s foundation.
This gate, which accommo-
1 Settat Environs dated sentries, is the only point
Road Map C3. * 100,000. The tiny village of Boulaouane of entry into the fortress. It leads
@ £ n Avenue Hassan II, can be reached by road from through to the sultan’s palace,
El-Haram building; (0523) 40 58 07. Settat. The journey there gives which is built around a central
_ Moussem of the Chaouia (first a foretaste of the semi-arid courtyard with elaborate mosaic
week in July or in Sept), Chaouia Folk southern landscapes. The roads decoration. Beside the palace, a
Art Festival (final week in Nov). are lined with Barbary fig trees, square tower about 10 m (33 ft)
( daily; livestock market Sat. and donkeys can be seen high, and now disfigured by
carrying barrels of the local cracks, afforded a vantage point
A crossroads between north rosé wine. over the surrounding territory.
and south, Settat is the capital Disused vaulted armouries
of a province with some 850,000 were used for storing food
inhabitants. It is the economic 2 Kasbah supplies. The mosque, with
hub of the Chaouia, a coastal Boulaouane five aisles, is in a very bad
plain that is known as Morocco’s Road Map C3.
state of preservation. Next
grainstore. While the north to it is the tomb of a saint
of the region is famous for its Located in a meander of Wadi named Sidi Mancar, whom
fertile agricultural land, the Oum er-Rbia, this stunning the region’s inhabitants still
southern part is given over kasbah stands on a promontory revere today, since he is
to livestock (chaoui means in the heart of a forested area believed to have the power
“breeder of sheep”). covering 3,000 hectares (7,400 to cure paralysis and sterility.
When Moulay Ismaïl built the acres). It was apparently built Ceaselessly battered by
Kasbah Ismaïla, at the end of the by the Almohads, who made it the elements, the kasbah
17th century, the security and an imperial stopping place on has suffered a great deal of
stability of the region – which the road running along the deterioration over the centuries.
was traversed by major caravan coast and inland to Fès. At It was declared a historic
routes – was strengthened. The the beginning of the 16th monument in 1922. The
sultan would stay in the kasbah
on his travels between Fès
and Marrakech. Vestiges of the
building can still be seen in
the modern town.
Today, Settat offers little of
interest to tourists. However,
under the aegis of Driss Basri, a
native of the region and Minister
of the Interior for almost 20 years,
it stood as a model of urban
development in the 1990s. The
merits of this distinction can be
seen from Place Hassan II, in the
town centre, in the arrangement
of open spaces and of pedestrian
and shopping areas, and in
buildings combining Art Deco
and Moorish styles. Kasbah Boulaouane, built in the 18th century
Boulaouane Wine
Connoisseurs consider that the wine known as
Gris de Boulaouane, a rosé with an orange tint,
is one of the best Moroccan wines.
Although the Romans successfully
exploited the soil and climate of
Mauretania Tingitana to grow vines,
the establishment of Islam in the
Maghreb did not further the upkeep
of the vineyards. Under the French
Protectorate, the vineyards were
Extensive vineyards near Boulaouane revived, and in 1956 wine production
passed into state control. The state-
owned company that marketed Gris
de Boulaouane collapsed, however, and the quality of the wine deteriorated. The French
company Castel retook control of Moroccan wine production in the 1990s: the old vines
were dug up and new stock planted, this time Cabernet-Sauvignon, Merlot, Cinsault,
Syrah and Grenache gris. Today, Moroccan vineyards cover 350 hectares (865 acres)
in the district of Boulaouane, the Doukkala region, the foothills of the Atlas and along
the Atlantic coast. The vines are planted in sand, the heat of which prevents the
development of phylloxera. The grapes are hand-harvested at the end of August A bottle of Gris de
and the wine, bottled in France, is exported mostly to Europe. Boulaouane
mosque and city walls are the former Portuguese presence

undergoing restoration work. – the style of the doors being
The region is also famous for particularly prominent in this
its tradition of falconry, a sport respect. The town also has a
still practised today by falconers tradition of Portuguese-style
from several important embroidery, which features
local families. dragons and lions depicted face
to face, an exclusively Moroccan
motif. The mellah (Jewish
3 Azemmour quarter), once within walls, is
Road Map B2. * 32,800. @
now derelict. The synagogue,
n Avenue Mohammed V. however, has a notable pediment
_ Moussem (Aug). ( Tue. with an inscription in Hebrew.
An ancient Almohad town Environs

located on the left bank of Eight kilometres (5 miles)
the Wadi Oum er-Rbia estuary, A typical Portuguese-style door in the north on the coast road,
Azemmour is also known by the medina, Azemmour the Sidi Boubeker lighthouse
name of Moulay Bouchaïb – offers a view of the town’s
the town’s patron saint, who, They abandoned the town Portuguese defences. Haouzia
in the 12th century, was also when Agadir fell in 1541. beach, starting 2 km (1.5 miles)
patron saint of the trade that Despite its year-round gentle southeast of Azemmour,
then flourished between the climate and coastal location, stretches for 15 km (9 miles)
town and Málaga, in Spain. Azemmour has few hotels and from the Oum er-Rbia estuary
In 1513, the Portuguese took not many tourists come here. to El-Jadida. Along the way it
control of the town. The fort The narrow white streets of passes a forest of eucalyptus,
that they built became the the medina are peppered with pine and mimosa with
kasbah that can be seen today. architectural features recalling flowering cacti.
Embroidery with dragon motifs, of Portuguese inspiration and typical of Azemmour

4 El-Jadida
The Portuguese settled here in 1502 and built a fort that they
named Mazagan. In time, the town became a major centre of
trade, and ships from Europe and the East anchored here to take
on provisions. In 1769, the sultan Sidi Mohammed expelled the
Portuguese, who dynamited it as they fled. It was resettled by
local Arab tribes and a large Jewish community from Azemmour
at the beginning of the 19th century. The town was then known
as El-Jadida (The New One), but temporarily reassumed its
original name – Mazagan – under the French Protectorate.
+ Ramparts the town as they escaped

Entry into the old town is Sidi Mohammed in 1769.
through a gateway that leads The rampart walk leads to
to Place Mohammed ben- the Bastion de l’Ange, which
Abdallah. The walls were commands a panoramic view
originally fortified with five over the old town. The Bastion Bastion de l’Ange, commanding a fine view
bastions but only four of de St Sébastien was once of El-Jadida’s harbour
these were rebuilt after the the seat of the Inquisition’s
Portuguese had destroyed tribunal and the prison. + Medina
The main street leads to the
sea gate (Porta do Mar), from
where there is access to the
rampart walk. This gate, now
blocked in, once linked the
town to the seashore. Halfway
along the main street is the
entrance to the Citerne Portugaise,
originally an underground
arsenal, which is one of
El-Jadida’s most interesting
sights and should not be missed.
The mellah has a deserted air:
most of the Jewish community
emigrated to Israel in the
The old town of El-Jadida, built by the Portuguese early 1950s.
Citerne Portugaise (Portuguese Cistern)

The Portuguese built this underground “cistern” A well, 3.5 m (11.5 ft) across,
was sunk through the central
in 1514. First an arsenal, then an armoury, it came
span, allowing daylight to enter.
to be used as a cistern only in 1541. The
reflection of the columns and the
vaulting on the water is an
atmospheric and
mysterious sight.
The vaults rest on

five lines of columns.
The cistern takes the form

of a square 34 m by 33 m
The 25 pillars are
(111 ft by 108 ft).
reflected in the
stagnant water.
Oualidia Oysters
Lovers of seafood hold Oualidia oysters in especially high esteem. Practical Information
The species of edible oyster that is raised in the local oyster farms Road Map B2.
is related to those from the * 150,000. n 20 bis, Ave
Marennes-Oléron region Maukawama & Place Mohammed
of France, which were V; (0523) 34 47 88. _ Moussem
imported in the 1950s. of Moulay Abdallah (Aug). ( Sun.
Oyster Farm No. 7, which
Transport
was set up in 1992 in the @£
lagoon here, is one of the
most modern in Morocco.
The oysters and other
shellfish that are farmed honour it was established. The
here are raised according to moussem held here in August is
stringent European health renowned for its fantasias
and hygiene regulations. Oualidia oysters (see p39).
Environs
P Citerne Portugaise 5 Moulay Abdallah From the coast road leading
Open 9am–1pm & 3–6pm daily. &
Road Map B3. 11 km (7 miles) south
south from Moulay Abdallah you
This former armoury, in the of El-Jadida and 82 km (51 miles) can see the huge installations of
Manueline Gothic style, was north of Oualidia. _ Moussem (Aug). the mineral Port de Jorf Lasfar,
converted into a cistern after the largest port in Africa. Built in
the citadel was enlarged in The origins of this fishing the 1980s, it has a chemical
1541. It was then constantly village lie in a 12th-century complex and petrol refinery.
fed by fresh water so as to Almohad settlement which was
guarantee the town’s water then known as Tit. The old site’s
supply in the event of a impressive ruins can still be seen 6 Oualidia
prolonged siege. Rediscovered today, together with a minaret Road Map B3. * 3,000. @ ( Sat.
by chance in 1916 when a dating from the same period as
shopkeeper was knocking that of the Koutoubia Mosque This small coastal resort takes its
down a wall to enlarge his in Marrakech (see pp240–41). The name from the sultan El-Oualid,
shop, it has fascinated many settlement was, at that time, a who built a kasbah here in 1634.
artists as well as visitors. Orson ribat, or fortified monastery, built The rather unattractive town
Welles used it as a location around the cult of the saint centre leads through to a
for certain scenes of his film Moulay Abdallah, whose purpose stunningly beautiful beach on
Othello, released in 1952. was to guard the coast. It became the edge of a lagoon. Swimming
a busy port, but was destroyed is safe here but on either side,
Environs in the early 16th century to the sea is rough and foaming.
El-Jadida is a short bus ride prevent the Portuguese, who This is one of the beaches on
away from the very popular were at Azemmour, from taking the Atlantic coast that is good
Sidi Bouzid beach, which it. The fishing industry revived for surfing, particularly for
is about 5 km (3 miles) the village, which then assumed beginners. Among the summer
further south. the name of the saint in whose villas here is the residence built
for Mohammed V.
The town is an important
centre of the oyster industry. A
visit to the oyster farms (parcs à
huitres), particularly Oyster Farm
N° 7 – including the opportunity
to sample some oysters – is a
pleasant way to pass some time.
The Ostrea restaurant and hotel
is also located here.
Oyster Farm N° 7 (and Ostrea)

On the El-Jadida road. Tel (0523) 36 64
51/(0664) 49 12 76.
Environs
The coast road running
southwards along the clifftop
leads to Cap Beddouza, and
Heaps of phosphate in the mineral port of Jorf Lasfar on to Safi.
7 Safi
Road Map B3. * 260,000. @ £
n tourist office, Rue Imam-Malek &
main market, Ave de la Liberté; (0524)
62 24 96. _ Moussem of the Seven
Saints (mid-Aug), Moussem of Lalla
Fatna (mid-Nov). ( Mon.
An important Moroccan
port since the 16th century,
the town of Safi is today an
industrial centre and a major
sardine-processing port. It owes
its importance to the growth
of the fishing industry and to
the processing and export of
phosphates, as well as to its
pottery. A rapidly expanding Kasbah Hamidouch, built by Moulay Ismaïl
town, Safi has an interesting
medina as well as traces of E Musée National de la 8 Kasbah
its Portuguese history. Céramique Hamidouch
Kechla. Open 8:30am–noon & 2–6pm
P Medina Wed–Mon. Road Map B3. 29 km (18 miles) south
The area covered by the medina Built by the Portuguese in the of Safi on the coast road.
takes the form of a triangle 16th century, the citadel, known
whose widest side faces onto as the Kechla, encloses a This kasbah forms part of a
the coast. Rue du Souk, lined mosque and garden dating system of fortified outposts
with shops and workshops, from the 18th and 19th centuries. that Moulay Ismaïl (see pp58–9)
leads to Bab Chaaba (Gate of Since 1990 the Kechla has established along the main
the Valley). Near the Grand housed the Musée National routes of communication so
Mosque, south of the medina, de la Céramique, which as to control the region and
is the Portuguese Chapel, contains displays of traditional accommodate travellers.
originally the choir of Safi’s and modern ceramics, The kasbah is encircled by
cathedral, built by the including blue-on-white an outer wall, within which
Portuguese in 1519. wares made in Safi, pottery stand a mosque and various
from Fès and Meknès, and buildings, now in ruins. An
+ Dar el-Bahr pieces by Boujmaa Lamali inner wall, set with square
Open 8:30am–noon & 2:30– (1890–1971). towers and reinforced by a
5:30pm Wed–Mon. dry moat, surrounds a court-
This small fortress, also Safi candlestick, P Colline des Potiers yard that is lined with shops,
known as the Château 20th century In the Bab Chaaba various houses and a chapel.
de la Mer, overlooks the district, craftsmen can
sea. It was built by the be seen making the ceramic
Portuguese at the beginning of wares that have made Safi 9 Chiadma Region
the 16th century, and served as famous. Finished pieces are
Road Map B3–4.
a residence for the governor, displayed and offered for sale
then for the sultans in the 17th in commercial showrooms and The territory of the Chiadma,
century. On the esplanade are visitors can follow the various in the provinces of Safi and
cannons cast in Spain, Portugal stages of pottery production Essaouira, is inhabited by Regraga
and Holland. at the training school. Berbers. They are descended
from seven saint apostles of
Islam, who, during a journey
to Mecca, were directed by the
Prophet Mohammed to convert
the Maghreb to Islam. In spring,
a commemorative pilgrimage
is made, ending at the small
village of Ha Dra.
A souk, one of the most
authentic markets in the area,
takes place in Ha Dra on Sunday
mornings. Grain, spices, animals
and a wide range of goods,
A potter at work in Safi, where a particularly high-quality clay is used mostly food, are offered for sale.
View of the delightful town of Essaouira from the North Bastion
s O U T H e r n AT l A n T i C C O A s T  123
Sea Fishing in Morocco

The Moroccan coastline, which is more than 3,500 km (2,175 miles) long, faces both the
Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean sea, and gives the country access to some of
the richest fishing grounds in the world – with some 240 species of fish. Morocco brings
in the largest catches of fish in the whole of Africa. its pre-eminence is due especially to
sardines, of which Morocco is the largest processor and exporter in the world. Coastal
fishing has created a major canning industry, too. The Moroccan sea fishing industry
employs some 200,000 people and exports bring in Us $600 million per year. Modern
fishing methods, however, have not completely replaced traditional ways.
Sardine fishing in Essaouira

uses swivel nets. In spite of their
Small trawlers, many of them made of wood, as well as expert knowledge of the sea bed,
motorized dinghies, ply the coastal waters as far out to sea the fishermen often have to repair
as the edge of the Continental Shelf. Their catches consist damaged nets when they return
of many different species of fish. to harbour every day.
The eateries in
Essaouira’s harbour
invite customers to
select a plateful of
fish and eat it on
the spot. Many
such establishments
are to be found in
the port, at the exit
from the sqala.
The fish market at Agadir is one of
the largest sardine ports in the world. An
auction, which sells almost 250 different
kinds of fish, takes place here every day.
Consernor, the
canning company,
is one of Safi’s
major industries.
Crates of fish are packed ready for sale. Sardines It revitalized the
are the most important catch, but other fish, local economy in
including hake and grey mullet, are also on offer. the 1920s.
0 Essaouira
With the brilliant whiteness of its lime-washed walls
and the sight of women enveloped in voluminous
haiks, Essaouira, formerly Mogador, is a quintessentially
Moroccan town and one of the most enchanting places
in the country. By virtue of its location on this stretch
of the Atlantic coast, where trade winds prevail almost The Porte de la Marine, built by Sidi
all year-round, the town enjoys a particularly pleasant Mohammed ben Abdallah
climate. It is a prime location for surfing, but has
managed to escape mass tourism. A mecca for hippies cannons and defended at its
northern end by the North
during the 1970s, it is still an artists’ town and is very Bastion. This was built by
fashionable with independent travellers. Théodore Cornut on the site
of the Castello Real, a citadel
constructed by the Portuguese
+ Ramparts in about 1505. The esplanade
On the side facing the sea, the (where scenes from Orson
outer walls, which have bevelled Welles’ film Othello were shot in
crenellations, were designed 1949) commands a view of the
to give protection from naval ocean and the Îles Purpuraires.
attack and are thus typical of A covered passage leads from
European fortifications. By the bastion to the former
contrast, the inner walls, which munitions stores, which now
have square crenellations and house marquetry workshops.
are similar to the fortifications
around Marrakech, are Islamic Port
in style. These are built in stone Sqala du Port. Open daily. &
and roughcast with a facing of The Porte de la Marine, leading
earth. The walls are pierced by to the docks, is crowned by a
gates – Bab Sebaa on the classical triangular pediment
southern side, Bab Marrakech and dominated by two
Women in Essaouira wearing the on the eastern side and Bab imposing towers flanked by
characteristic haik Doukkala on the northeastern four turrets. The rectangular
side – that lead into the medina. Sqala du Port is surmounted
Exploring Essaouira by battlements.
In the 7th century BC, the + Sqalas From the 18th century, 40
Phoenicians founded a base on Two sqalas (sea bastions) were per cent of Atlantic sea traffic
the site where Essaouira now built to protect the town: the passed through Essaouira. It
stands, and in the 1st century Sqala de la Ville, in the northwest, became known as the Port of
BC Juba II made it a centre of and the Sqala du Port, in Timbuctu, being the destination
the manufacture of purple dye. the south. of caravans from sub-Saharan
The Portuguese established a The Sqala de la Ville consists Africa bringing goods for
trading and military bridgehead of a crenellated platform export to Europe. Once one of
here in the 15th century, and featuring a row of Spanish Morocco’s largest sardine ports,
named it Mogador. The
town itself, however,
was not built until
around 1760, by the
Alaouite sultan Sidi
Mohammed ben
Abdallah (Mohammed
III), who had decided to
set up a naval base here.
The town, the harbour
and the fortifications, in
the style of European
fortresses, were
designed and built
by Théodore Cornut,
a renowned French
architect who had
worked for Louis XV. Sqala de la Ville, a favourite place for strolls at sunset
P Medina VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The layout of Essaouira is
unusual because it was Practical Information
planned before the town was Road Map B4. * 70,000. Link
developed. It was laid out by to Marrakech coach station
the French architect Cornut, (departure opposite the Hôtel
who, between 1760 and 1764, des Îles). n Rue du Caire, (0524)
built the Sqala de la Ville and 78 35 32. _ Festival of Gnaoua
music (Jun). Regraga Pilgrimage
the Sqala du Port, endowing
(Beginning of Apr). Festival des
them with fortifications and
Alizés (Apr/May).
outer and inner walls.
As elsewhere in Morocco, the Transport
medina in Essaouira is a labyrinth k @ 1 km (0.5 mile) northeast
of narrow streets; the town itself, of the medina.
by contrast, has straight, wide
streets laid out at right angles
View of the Sqala du Port, at the southern to one another and cut by
entrance to the town gateways. The Grand Mosque
is situated in the heart of the
Essaouira now provides a medina. Further north, the
living for no more than 500 to market, Souk Jdid, is divided
600 families. But it still has its into four by the intersection of
traditional shipyard, where two thoroughfares: there is a
vessels are made out of wood. daily souk for fish, spices and
Visitors can also watch the fish grains, and a souk for second-
auction and sample freshly hand and collectable items, The daily spice souk, laid out next to the
grilled sardines. known as joutia. fish souk
Essaouira Town Centre

1 Ramparts
2 Sqala de la Ville
3 Sqala du Port LLA
H
E
EL M Bus Station
Ramparts RUE
4 Port 300 m (330 yards)
UW AIT
5 Medina North DE K Bab
RUE NI Doukkala
Bastion RU U
O
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6 Grand Mosque E FO RMER KT

E
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H
B LV
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7 Souq Jdid
JD H MELLAH
U
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8 Former Mellah R
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Souk Jdid
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9 Église Notre-Dame
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BE RU
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Sqala A L
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CHRIB H LA
q Galerie Damgaard O
RU DE
de la Ville
AB
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Musée Sidi- E
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w Musée Sidi-
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Mohammed- DE
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ben-Abdallah
Mohammed- EN MEDI NA
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Grand
ben-Abdallah PLACE
M
MOULAY Mosque
ED
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AF
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PLACE N
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MOULAY IB Bab
HASSAN BA Marrakech
OK Galerie Bab Sebaa
E
AV Damgaard
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PLACE South
Sqala
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ORSON WELLES
Bastion
DU
du Port Seafood
CA
Grill Stalls
IR
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Marine EV AIC
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Gate R
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Notre-Dame
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Port
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Beach
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Airport Sidi Kaouki,

0 metres 200 15 km (10 miles) AGADIR
0 yards 200

Working with Thuya

Thuya, a highly prized wood with a delicious perfume, grows abundantly in the region
of Agadir and Essaouira, and has been the source of that latter’s prosperity. Thuya is a
very dense hardwood, and almost every part of the tree apart from the branches can
be used: the trunk, with its relatively light-coloured wood; the stump, used for making
small objects; and the gnarl, a rare excrescence streaked with brown and pink. The gnarl
is polished, inlaid with decorative motifs in citron wood, mother-of-pearl or ebony and
sometimes with threads of silver or copper, or slivers of camel bone. It is used to make
such items as coffee tables, caskets, small statues, boxes in all shapes and sizes, trays
and jewellery. The country’s best marquetry craftsmen can be seen working at this
traditional craft in the former munitions stores beneath Essaouira’s ramparts.
Marquetry
Essaouira’s cabinet-makers
were already renowned
in antiquity, and the town
has remained the capital
of marquetry ever since.
Tradition dictates that the
artistically skilled part of
the work (from the
construction of a piece to
its decoration) be done by
men. Women and children
are given the task of polishing
the finished items.
The high sheen of this bread box The decoration of

is produced by polishing the this dish is based
surface with methylated spirit on a geometric
and gum arabic. Linseed scheme. The
oil feeds the wood and border pattern
prevents it from consists of an
developing cracks. inlay of alternating
pieces of ebony and
citron wood.
The Thuya Gnarl

This excrescence, which
grows on certain trees,
particularly the thuya,
is highly sought after
by cabinet-makers
for its veined and
speckled appearance.
Artisans apply all their ingenuity and The thuya gnarl is

imagination to produce novel shapes. separated from the trunk.
are the ruins of Dar Soltane

Mahdounia, a palace built by
Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah
in the 18th century and now
almost completely engulfed in
sand. It inspired Jimi Hendrix
(who lived in Diabet for several
years) to write the song Castles
in the Sand.
Surfers will particularly enjoy
the many beaches each side
of Essaouira. Thanks to the
enterprise of dynamic local
associations, Morocco is about
The old part of the Jewish cemetery at Essaouira to become one of the top
destinations for surfers and
P Former Mellah } Beach windsurfers. (The Océan
From Bab Doukkala, accessible Essaouira’s beach, to the south Vagabond café is a good place
via Rue Mohammed Zerktouni. of the town centre, is known as to hire surfing equipment.) The
 Controlled access. one of the finest in Morocco. All windiest time of year in the
Having risen to prominence through the summer, the trade Essaouira area, and therefore
and prosperity in the 18th winds keep this part of the coast the best time for surfing and
and 19th centuries, the Jewish surprisingly cool. At times, windsurfing here, is from April
community in Essaouira came however, the gusty winds are so to September. However,
to hold an important economic strong that they drive people to while the air, at 20–
position in the town, and Jewish seek shelter in the medina. 30 °C (68–86 °F),
jewellers acquired wide renown. At the estuary of Wadi is always
The town’s former Jewish Qsob, on the far side of pleasantly warm,
quarter is no longer inhabited the beach, vestiges of the the water is always a very
by Jews, but on Rue Darb system of defences built cool 16–18 °C (61–64 °F).
Laalouj the former houses of on a rocky promontory South of Essaouira, at Cap Sim
Jewish businessmen can still be by the sultan Sidi (beyond Diabet) and at Sidi
seen; they are now converted Mohammed are Kaouki, and to the north, at
into shops. In contrast to Muslim visible. Although Moulay Bouzerktoun, the
houses, they are fronted by they have crumbled, Surfer waves are very strong, and safe
balconies opening onto the thick walls can still be only for experienced surfers.
street and some have lintels made out. Also to the south, at
with inscriptions in Hebrew. By following the wadi Tafelney (beyond the village
Rue Mohammed Zerktouni, upstream, after a tumbled- of Smimou), there is a
the main street in the quarter, down bridge, you reach the magnificent bay where the
has a very lively market. Leaving village of Diabet. It is also water is warmer. In spite of the
by Bab Doukkala, you will pass accessible via the road to constant gusty wind, it is easier
the austere Jewish cemetery, Agadir, turning off to the to get into the water on the
which is worth a visit. (The keys right after 7 km (4 miles). beach at Essaouira, as the
are available on request from An interesting sight here waves are much gentler.
the caretaker.)
R Église Notre-Dame
Avenue El-Moukaouama, south of
the post office. 5 9am Mon–Sat,
10am Sun. Tel (0524) 47 58 95.
This Catholic church stands
outside the walls of the medina,
on the road leading to the
beach. It is the only church in
the country where the bells are
rung on Sundays to summon
the faithful to mass at 11am.
Most of the church
furnishings are made of thuya
wood. On an alternating basis,
the services here are said in
one of four languages: French,
English, Dutch or German. Essaouira beach, swept by strong gusts of wind all year round
E Galerie Damgaard
Avenue Oqba Ibn Nafia. Tel (0524) 78
44 46. Open 9am–1pm & 3–7pm daily.
For about a quarter of a
century, a generation of
painters and sculptors has
made Essaouira an important
centre of artistic activity. Many
talented artists have been
brought to public attention by
the Dane Frederic Damgaard.
Formerly an antique dealer
in Nice, since 1988, Damgaard
devoted his energies to the art
produced in Essaouira, opening Art gallery of Frederic Damgaard, the great discoverer of artistic talent
his own art gallery in the medina
until he retired in 2006. On a former pasha’s residence and Rabat (see pp82–3), prove that
display is the work of artists the town hall during the trade was taking place here
from the humblest walks of life. Protectorate. It contains fine from the 7th century BC. In the
Among the best known are displays of ancient crafts 1st century BC, Juba II (see p49),
Mohammed Tabal, a Gnaoua and of weapons and founder of Volubilis, set up a
painter who has become jewellery. There are centre for the production of
known as “the trance painter”, also instruments and purple dye, from which the
Zouzaf, Ali Maïmoune, Rachid accessories used by islands take their name. Purple
Amarlouch and Fatima Ettalbi. religious brotherhoods, dye, highly prized by the
Others to be discovered Moorish musical instruments Romans, was obtained from
include the expressionist and some stunning the murex, a mollusc. The ruins
Ali, whose style is mid- examples of Berber and of a prison, built in the 19th
way between naive and Jewish costumes in silk, century by the sultan Moulay
Brutalist. All of them velvet and flannel. el-Hassan, are also visible.
draw their inspiration Rbab, in the Musée Carpets illustrating the Some 12 km (7.5 miles) south
from Essaouira’s cultural Sidi-Mohammed traditional weaving of Essaouira, the splendid
variety, and reflect the of local tribes are beach at Sidi Kaouki is very
traditions of different schools. also exhibited. popular with surfers. A
Many exhibitions and other mausoleum, which appears
projects, in Morocco and Environs to rise up out of the water,
throughout the world, have On the Îles Purpuraires, visible contains the tomb of a
been devoted to the painters across the bay from Essaouira, marabout (holy man) who,
of Essaouira. is a bird sanctuary where gulls according to legend, had
and the rare Eleonora’s falcon, the power to cure barren
E Musée Sidi-Mohammed- a threatened species, and women. An annual pilgrimage,
ben-Abdallah other birds can be seen. with many devotees, takes
Rue Darb Laalouj. Open 9am–6pm Phoenician, Attic and place here in mid-August.
daily. & Ionian amphorae discovered
This small ethnographic on the Île de Mogador, the O Îles Purpuraires
museum is laid out in a main island, and now in Controlled access (information
19th-century house that was the Musée Archéologique in available from the tourist office).
Mausoleum of Sidi Kaouki, at the far end of a spectacularly extensive beach south of Essaouira
The Painters of Essaouira

Essaouira, a town imbued with art and culture, is home to a group of painters known
as “free artists”, each of whom has his or her own unique style. Their talents have won
recognition abroad and their work has been shown in many European art galleries. Using
bright colours, their naive or “tribal” art is inspired by the myths, Arab-Berber history
and African origins of Moroccan popular culture. These self-taught painters are also
woodcarvers, sailors and builders, and they have in common an unconditional love of
their town. Arabesques, geometric designs, dots, stippling and a swarm of objects,
animals and human figures populate their poetic world.
Mohammed Tabal
A leading figure in Essaouira’s
artistic circles, Mohammed
Tabal draws inspiration from his
Gnaoui ancestry – from the
ritual of spiritual possession and
from the trances that form part
of the rites of this popular
brotherhood of African origin.
His paintings are splashed with
bright, contrasting colours and
feature a multitude of tiny
details, such as naive motifs
rich in symbolism. Mohammed Tabal’s paintings are imbued with mysticism.
Abdallah Elatrach is inspired by scenes of daily Ali Maïmoune paints tree-filled worlds that are
life in the souks and by the traditions of various populated by terrifying monsters, animals and
brotherhoods whose rituals involve trance. fantastic warriors.

This tour follows a very scenic river valley with many
natural swimming pools surrounded by palm trees. From 1 Win t’mdoum Caves
Agadir, a winding road leads to the village of Imouzzer, Located 35 km (22 miles) from
Imouzzer, these caves are the
set on a hilltop in the foothills of the High Atlas. It is the
most extensive in North Africa.
heart of the territory of the Ida Outanane, a confederation Work is under way to make
of Berbers whose traditional speciality is them accessible to the public.
gathering honey. Despite the
exodus from the country into
the towns, many women –
dressed in brightly coloured J
robes – can still be seen at
work on the hillsides.
J
2 Imouzzer
This village of white houses
Agadir Tamazirt
is famous for its waterfalls,
which flow in winter and
spring. It is the starting
point for many excursions,
on foot or by donkey,
0 kilometres 3
organized by the Hôtel
des Cascades. 0 miles 3
Agadir
q Tamanar the route to Tafelney. Two-

Road Map B4. ( Thu in Tamanar, thirds along this road, the
Fri in Arba des Ida Outrhouma, 10 km landscape takes on a majestic
(6 km) south of Tamanar. beauty. The road comes to a
sudden stop at a magnificent
The small town of Tamanar, bay, where fishermen can often
which extends along its be seen mending their nets
one main street, is a regional on the beach.
administrative centre and, To the left, a huddle of
effectively, the capital of the identical shanty houses are
argan industry. It is at the home to thousands of birds.
heart of Haha territory, home To those with a taste for remote
to a settled yet dynamic spots, the strange beauty of this
Berber population which place will have a strong appeal.
was self-governing in the
15th century.
On the way out of the village, Pretty landscape near the town w Tamri
near Café Argane, is a store of Tamanar
Road Map B4. O
selling locally produced argan
oil. The highly organized Environs This village is located on
women who run it show the Between Smimou (where the estuary of a river that
fruits of their labour in a friendly there is a picturesque souk on in winter is fed partly by the
atmosphere and sell their Sundays) and Tamanar, a small waterfall at Imouzzer (see
products in a cooperative. sign saying “Tafadna” indicates above). There is an extensive
3 Tamaroute 4 Assif el-Had

The waterfalls in this attractive village The natural bridge at
are known as “The Bridal Veil”. They are Assif el-Had was created
the southernmost waterfalls above the by water flowing down
Sahara. Flowing from several levels, the from the mountains
waters are abundant when the snow and eroding the
begins to melt in spring. rock beneath.
5 Imi Irhzer
In February, the
Argana, red-ochre houses
Marrakech of the villages almost
J
disappear in a sea of
Biramane
almond blossom. A
Tasguint sheepfold has been
J converted into a gîte.
Tips for Travellers

Departure : Imouzzer des Ida
Outanane, at Hôtel des Cascades.
How to get there: From Agadir,
northwards on the N1 turning off
Agadir after 12 km (7.5 miles) onto a
track. From the north, turn left
onto the road 20 km (12 miles)
after Cap Rhir. From Agadir, a bus
departs from next door to the
6 Bigoudine bus station at about 12:30pm
The road to Bigoudine offers a daily (allow three and a half
Key succession of panoramic views. hours), returning from Imouzzer
Itinerary (road) This is where the argan forests at 8am the next day.
begin. When it is completed, a Stopping-off point: Hôtel des
Itinerary (track)
new road crossing the N8 and Cascades at Imouzzer has
Other roads passing through Bigoudine will relaxing gardens and a restaurant.
Other tracks provide a link to Imouzzer.
banana plantation. On the

left, as you approach Tamri The Argan Tree
from the north, an inland The argan (Argania sideroxylon) is North Africa’s
road leads to a major bird- weirdest tree. It is interesting not only in its own right,
watching area, where but it is also ecologically and economically important.
Audouin’s gulls, Barbary This tenacious, twisted tree, which never grows higher
falcons, Lamier’s falcons, than 6 m (19.5 ft), has a multitude of uses. Being a very
sparrows and various other hard wood, it is ideal for making charcoal. It is also
species can be seen. used to feed animals (camels and goats find the leaves
Bottle of and fruit delectable), and to make argan oil, which is
Environs argan oil extracted from the kernel. The vitamin-rich oil has a
wide range of applications, according to the degree
About 19 km (12 miles)
to which it is refined. It
north of Agadir is Taghazoute, is used in cosmetics for
a fishing village that is popular what are thought to be its
with surfers. It was also hydrating and anti-ageing
colonized by the hippie properties, and in medicine
movement, and, on the way to combat arteriosclerosis,
out of Taghazoute, you can chicken pox and rheumatism.
see curious signs saying Argan oil also has culinary
“Banana Village” and “Paradise uses – a few drops are enough
Valley” – names that were to bring out the flavour of
originally given by those who salads and tajines – and it is Goat perched in an argan tree, feeding
followed in the footsteps of used as fuel for lamps. on its fruit
Jimi Hendrix in the 1970s.
TANGIER
Once an international city, Tangier has a special character that sets it
apart from other Moroccan cities. It has drawn artists and writers,
from Henri Matisse to Paul Bowles and writers of the Beat
generation. Tangier’s port, dominated by the medina, is
the main link between Africa and Europe. With a road
now linking Tangier to Rabat and the construction of
a port, the city continues to expand.
The history of Tangier has been shaped by the France and Britain, the stage was set for
sea and by its strategic location on the Straits Tangier’s transformation into an international
of Gibraltar. The Phoenicians established a port city. This was sealed by the Treaty of Algeciras
here in the 8th century, and it was later settled (1906), after which the diplomatic corps in
by the Carthaginians. In 146 BC, Tangier, known Tangier took over Morocco’s political, financial
as Tingis, became a Roman town and the and fiscal affairs. When colonial rule was
capital of Mauretania, to which it gave the name established in 1912, Spain took control of the
Tingitana. In 711, Arab and Berber forces northern part of the country. Tangier, however,
gathered here to conquer Spain. By the 14th remained under international administration.
century, the town was trading with Marseilles, This was the city’s heyday; its image as a
Genoa, Venice and Barcelona. Tangier was romantic and sensuously exotic place was
captured by the Portuguese in 1471, by the made in literature and on the big screen.
Spanish (1578–1640) and then the English, After independence in 1956, Tangier was
who were expelled from the city by Moulay returned to Morocco. In March 2014,
Ismaïl in 1684. In the 19th century, Morocco Mohammed VI launched a 130 million-dirham
was the object of dispute between European project for an arts compound, currently
nations. When, in 1905, Kaiser Wilhelm II under construction, in downtown Tangier as
denounced the entente cordiale between part of the Tangier-Metropolis programme.
Buildings lining the pedestrianized seafront promenade, Tangier

Musicians playing at Marhaba Palace, a luxurious palace restaurant in the old town, Tangier
Exploring Tangier
The best overview of the city is from the vantage point of the
Colline du Charf or Colline de Bella-Vista, to the southeast. While
the historic heart of Tangier is the medina, the soul of the city is the
kasbah, which has a palace-museum, narrow streets, gateways
and a seafront promenade. In the evening, when it is
wise not to linger in the medina, visitors who explore
Ville Nouvelle (New Town), along Avenue Pasteur
and Avenue Mohammed V, will come across BORJ
EN NAAM
the Spanish custom of the paseo (evening RUE RIAD S U LT AN
Bab el Raha
PL ACE
promenade). Alternatively, the cafés on Place PL. DU
TABOR
DU
MECHOIR
Bab
de France and Place de Faro offer relaxing Bab el PORTE
DE LA Dar
Haha
Kasbah PL ACE
views of the port and the Straits of Gibraltar, KASBAH el Makhzen DE LA
KASBAH
and, in clear conditions, a sight of the lights Bab
RU
el Assa
along the coast of Spain.
E
P TA N R.
E E L KA S
R A ID I B
JNAN
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Sights at a Glance
LA
DEK
ESSA
RUE BEN ABD
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BO
Avenues, Streets and Squares SE
KA E
SB RU
6 Rue Es-Siaghine A PL. DE LA
FUENTE
w Rue de la Liberté NUEVA
e Place de France & Place de Faro

r Avenue Pasteur
AV E N U E HASSAN IER
RU
Quarters and Promenades

E
1 Kasbah
D ' I TA L I E
3 Ramparts ES
E
4 Petit Socco RU
Fondatio
8 Grand Socco (Place du 9 Avril Lorin
RU
E T
1947)
OU A
H IN
u Quartier du Marshan
SIDI BOU ARRAQIA E
RUE
PL. DU
i Colline du Charf B
A BI 9 AVRIL 1947
o Bay of Tangier
Sidi Bou
B OU Abib
Mosque and Church
RTÉ
I
5 Grand Mosque SID
LIBE
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9 Anglican Church of St RU
Andrew AL
ILI
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Mohammed Drissi FRANCE
BELGIQU
E
0 metres 200
0 yards 200

TA N G I E R  135
Getting Around Environs of Tangier

Parking is available in Ville Nouvelle, on Place
du 9 Avril 1947 (Grand Socco) or on the
Plateau du Marshan. The medina and kasbah
must be explored on foot. The only practical use TANGIER
for cars and taxis is for reaching the Colline du
Charf and Colline de Bella-Vista, the Plateau du
Marshan and La Montagne, or for a trip along
the bay, from the port to the edge of the
wooded hills before Cap Malabata. Tanger Ville
1 km (0.6 mile)
Charf-
Souani
0 km 1 1
N
N
2
0 mile 0.5
Area of Main Map

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Bab el-Assa, leading through to Place de
la Kasbah
with them about their musical

traditions and their repertoire.
From the lobby, a narrow
passage allows sight of a small
derb (alleyway) lined with very
fine houses, while beyond the
gate is a view over the city. The
Musée d’Art Contemporain,
located in the former British
Consulate building, which dates
from 1890, houses collections
of modern Moroccan art and
temporary exhibitions featuring
the works of foreign artists.
E Musée d’Art Contemporain

Fountain at Bab el-Assa, with mosaic decoration and ornamental stuccowork and woodcarving 52 Rue d’Angleterre, Tanger. n (0539)
94 99 72. Open 9am–12:30pm and
1 Kasbah the mendoub led Friday prayers 3–6:30pm Wed–Mon. Closed Tue.
From the Marshan, accessible via Bab here. Also on the square is
el-Kasbah; from the medina, via Rue the Dar ech-Chera, the former
Ben Raissouli and Bab el-Assa; from tribunal, fronted by an arcade
the Grand Socco, via Rue d’Italie and of three white marble columns.
Rue de la Kasbah. The large fig tree growing
against the wall of an elegant
The kasbah was built on the house is supposed to be the
site of the Roman settlement. Its place where Samuel Pepys
present appearance dates from wrote about Tangier in his diary
the Portuguese period and that in the 17th century.
of Moulay Ismaïl (see pp58–9). Bab el-Assa (Gate of
With its quiet streets and Bastinado) leads from the
friendly inhabitants, it has a square to the medina. It was
special character, and its walls set at an angle so as to make
and gates command stunning it more difficult to attack. The
views over the strait, the bay gate gets its name from the
and the city. bastinado (caning the soles
Place de la Kasbah was of the feet) that was once the
once the méchouar where the punishment of criminals. In Central courtyard of the interesting
sultan or his pashas held public the lobby, between the two Musée Archéologique
audiences. It is also the location porches, stands a fountain
of the Dar El-Makhzen, the decorated with mosaics, 2 Musée
former palace that is now a stuccowork and woodcarving. Archéologique
museum (see below) and of Gnaouas, distantly related to
the Kasbah Mosque, whose those of Marrakech and Place de la Kasbah. n (0539) 93 20
97. Open 9am–6pm Wed–Mon. &
octagonal minaret is clad in Essaouira, regularly perform
coloured tiles. Its present form music and dance here. In the
dates from the 19th century; evening, audiences can talk The Museum of Archaeology
is laid out in the Dar el Makhzen,
a former sultans’ palace built
in the 17th century by Ahmed
ben Ali, whose father Ali ben
Abdellah al Hamani Errifi
liberated Tangier from the
British settlers in 1664. The
palace was remodelled and
enlarged several times in
the 17th and 19th centuries.
Bit el-Mal, the treasury – a separate
room with a magnificent
painted cedar ceiling – contains
large 18th-century coffers with
a complex system of locks.
A gallery leads to the palace
The octagonal minaret on the Kasbah Mosque itself. It is built around a central
TA N G I E R  137
courtyard paved 5 Grand Mosque

with zellij tilework
Rue Jma el-Kbir.
and surrounded by Closed to non-Muslims.
a gallery supported
by white marble The Grand Mosque, built on the
columns with site of a Portuguese cathedral,
Corinthian capitals. probably also overlies a former
The seven exhibition Roman temple dedicated
rooms opening onto to Hercules. Dating from the
the patio display reign of Moulay Ismaïl, it was
artifacts evoking enlarged in 1815 by Moulay
the material history Sliman. Mohammed V led Friday
of Tangier from prayers here on 11 April 1947,
prehistoric times during a visit to Tangier, when
to the 19th century. he also made a historic speech
These include sets The Petit Socco, or Souk Dakhli in the Mendoubia grounds (see
of bone and stone p142). Opposite the mosque,
tools, ceramics, terracotta 4 Petit Socco the state primary school
figurines and Phoenician Accessible via Rue Es-Siaghine or
(established by nationalists
silver jewellery. Rue Jma el-Kbir. during the French Protectorate)
The Voyage of Venus, a is a former Merinid medersa
Roman mosaic from Volubilis Known today as the Souk that was remodelled in the
(see pp206–209), is displayed Dakhli, the Petit Socco probably 18th century.
in the museum’s courtyard. corresponds to the area on Nearby, the Borj el-Hadjoui
Reproductions of several which the forum of Roman commands a view of the
famous bronzes from the Tingis once stood. It was a port and a pair of Armstrong
Musée Archéologique in country souk, where people cannons, each weighing
Rabat (see pp82–3) are also would come to buy food, 20 tonnes. They were
on display. One room is and with the arrival of the purchased from the British
devoted to Morocco’s major Europeans at the end of in Gibraltar, but were
archaeological sites. On the the 19th century it never used.
upper floor, the prehistory became the pulsing From the borj,
and history of Tangier and its heart of the medina. Rue Dar el-Baroud
environs, from the Neolithic This was where leads to the
period to its occupation by business was Hôtel Continental,
foreign powers, are presented done; diplomats, located opposite
through displays of grave businessmen and the port and one
goods, pottery and coins. bankers, whose of Tangier’s oldest
Adjacent to the palace is the offices were located Doorway of the Grand hotels. The building’s
Andalusian Garden. around the square or Mosque architectural style,
in the close vicinity, its Andalusian-style
could be seen in the cafés, lounges and its open terraces
3 Ramparts hotels, casinos and cabarets of give this establishment great
the Petit Socco. The Fuentes, a appeal. Its patrons have
Place de la Kasbah. Accessible via Bab
el-Bahar.
café-restaurant and hotel, now included writers and painters –
gives but a faint impression of among them Edgar Degas –
On the side of the square facing these halcyon days. From the and film producers.
the sea, opposite Bab el-Assa, 1950s, the hub of city life shifted
stands Bab el-Bahar (Gate of the to Ville Nouvelle, leaving the P Hôtel Continental
Sea), which was built in the Petit Socco to a few writers, and 36 Rue Dar el-Baroud. Tel (0539) 93 10
walls in 1920. From the terrace to idlers, smokers of kif and 24. Open daily.
there is a breathtaking view of shady traffickers.
the port, the straits and, in clear
conditions, the Spanish coast.
The walkway, which starts on
the left, follows the outside of
the ramparts and leads to the
impressive Borj en Naam, a fort.
Continuing along the seafront
and through residential districts,
the route leads to Hafa.
P Borj en Naam
Closed to the public. The Hôtel Continental, one of the oldest hotels in Tangier
7 American
Legation
8 Rue d’Amérique. Tel (0539) 93 53 17.
Open 10am–5pm Mon–Fri,
10am–3pm Sat.
The American Legation
consists of a suite of rooms
that originally formed part of
the residence that Moulay
Sliman presented to the United
A jeweller’s shop near Rue Es-Siaghine States in 1821, and which
served as the US Consulate for
6 Rue Es-Siaghine No. 51, was built by the the next 140 years. Another
Running from the Petit Socco to the
Spanish government, work suite, on several floors looking
Grand Socco. beginning in 1880. It was used out onto a garden, was
by the whole city’s Christian presented by a Jewish family:
This street was once the community, as well as by the doors, windows and
decumanus maximus, the main foreign diplomats. It is now ceilings were decorated
axis and busiest thoroughfare used for social activities. by craftsmen from Fès.
of the Roman town. It led from Further up the street, on the The rooms contain engra
the harbour out through the left, is Rue Touahine, which is vings of Gibraltar and Tangier,
southern gate, marked today lined with jewellers’ shops and old maps, and paintings (by
by Bab Fahs. Lined with cafés which leads to the Fondation Brayer, Mohammed ben Ali
and bazaars, the street is as Lorin, an arts centre in a disused Rbati, James McBey, Claudio
lively now as it must have been synagogue. On display here Bravo and others), which
in antiquity. are newspapers, photographs, were given to the legation by
The small administrative posters and plans relating to Margarite McBey, wife of James
building at No. 47, with a the political, sporting, musical McBey and a resident of Tangier.
courtyard planted with orange and social history of Tangier Through photographs, early
trees, was from 1860 to 1923 since the 1930s. Temporary editions and recordings, a room
the residence of the naib, the exhibitions of paintings also devoted to Paul Bowles gives
Moroccan high official who take place here. an overview of the writer’s life
served as intermediary bet and work during the years that
ween the sultan and foreign E Fondation Lorin he lived in Tangier. A reference
ambassadors. The Spanish 44 Rue Touahine. n (0539) 93 91 03. library is also available for the
Church of the Immaculate Open 10:30am–1:30pm & 3:30– use of scholars and specialists
Conception (La Purísima), at 7:30pm Sun–Fri. Closed Sat. on North Africa.
The elegant interior courtyard of the American Legation

TA N G I E R  139
Artists and Writers in Tangier

At the beginning of the 20th century, many writers from Europe and the United States
came to Tangier, most of them settling here more or less permanently. Drawn not only
by the climate, they also came in search of stimulation and spiritual wellbeing, and in
particular sought the atmosphere, freedom and sense of adventure that the city seemed
to project. Tangier’s exotic reputation as a den of traffickers and spies, and of drugs, sex
and dissipation was also a powerful draw.
Painters
The light, architecture and inhabitants
of Tangier have inspired many European
and American painters. Discovered by
Eugène Delacroix at the end of the 19th
century, the city later became the subject
of paintings by Georges Clairin, Jacques
Majorelle, James Wilson Morrice, Kees
Van Dongen, Claudio Bravo and the
Expressionist painter Henri Matisse.
Eugène Delacroix
(1798–1863) discovered
Morocco in 1832. The
experience of visiting
the country marked a
turning point in his Henri Matisse (1869–1954) was one of the greatest
career. Orientalism was Fauvist painters. His Odalisque à la Culotte Grise is
then to inspire his work typical of his work.
for the rest of his life.
Writers
In the wake of Paul Bowles came
writers and musicians of the Beat, Rock
and Hippie generations. Tennessee Paul Bowles,
Williams arrived in 1949, followed by who came to
Truman Capote, who came to Tangier Tangier for the
“to escape from himself”. William first time in 1931
Burroughs lived here for longer than all on the advice of
other foreign writers, finding Tangier a Gertrude Stein,
city where “throbbed the heartbeat of settled there
the world”. permanently in
1947. He died
in 1999.
Paul Morand, a
diplomat and writer,
and also a great
traveller, wrote Hécate
et ses chiens in Tangier
in 1955. A unique
atmosphere pervades
this short novel on
Mohammed Choukri, born in the Rif in 1935, the subject of couples:
was a friend of Jean Genet and Tennessee “In Africa, the first
Williams. Discovered by Paul Bowles, he came thing you learn is to
to fame in the 1980s with For Bread Alone. live life as it comes.”
8 Grand Socco 0 Galerie d’Art

(Place du 9 Avril Contemporain
1947) Mohammed Drissi
Rue d’Angleterre.
The link between the medina n (0539) 93 60 73. Open 9am–6pm
and Ville Nouvelle, Place du Tue–Sun. &
Grand Socco was renamed
Place du 9 Avril 1947 in memory This contemporary art
of the speech that Mohammed gallery, named in homage to
V made in support of indepen the Moroccan artist Mohammed
dence. The square comes to life Drissi (1946–2003), hosts
in the evenings, when vendors regular exhibitions by Moroccan
spread out their wares on the and international artists.
ground – extensive displays of
a huge variety of secondhand
goods. A colourful market, where q Fondouk Chejra
peasant women in striped
Rue de la Liberté. Accessible via the
foutas and widebrimmed straw steps below the level of the Hôtel
hats come to sell fruit and fowl, Church of St Andrew, with a belltower in elMinzah. n (0539) 94 80 50.
takes place above the square, the shape of a minaret
near the Anglican Church of The buzzing atmosphere in
St Andrew, at the far end of the church of St Andrew was Fondouk Chejra, known as the
Rue d’Angleterre. completed in 1894. The interior Poor People’s Souk or Weavers’
The minaret of the Mosque is a curious mixture of styles, Souk, is that of an Oriental
of Sidi Bou Abib (1917), in which the Moorish style bazaar. Above the shops on the
decorated with polychrome predominates. ground floor, the rooms that
tiles, overlooks the square from The lobed arch at the were once used by travellers
the southwest. Near Bab Fahs, entrance to the choir, and the and passing tradesmen have
a double gateway leading into ceiling above the altar, which been converted into weavers’
the medina, are the grounds of is decorated with a quotation workshops, where the white
the Mendoubia. This was the from the Gospel in Arabic, are and red fabric that is typical of
residence of the mendoub when of particular interest. The the Rif is produced. The original
Tangier was under international belltower, in the shape of a layout of the former fondouk, or
administration (1923–56). minaret, overlooks the cemetery. caravanserai, is difficult to make
Among those buried here are out, the central courtyard
Walter Harris, a journalist and having been much altered.
9 Anglican Church correspondent for The Times,
of St Andrew and Sir Harry McLean, a military
Rue d’Angleterre. Open 9:30am–
adviser to the sultans. w Rue de la Liberté
12:30pm & 2:30–6pm. Keys obtainable A plaque at the west end
from the caretaker. 5 11am Sun. of the church commemorates This street runs from Place du
Emily Kean: she came to Tangier 9 Avril 1947 (or Grand Socco) to
Built on land that Moulay in the 19th century, married the Ville Nouvelle. It was formerly
Hassan donated to fulfil the Cherif of Ouezzane and devoted known as Rue de Fès, then as
needs of an increasingly large her life to the welfare of the Rue du Statut, its current name
British population in Tangier, people of northern Morocco. dating from the beginning of
Moroccan independence. The
French Consulate, which is set in
the centre of a pleasant and
attractive park, dates from 1929;
the classical arcade of the
façade is offset by decoration
in the Moorish style.
In the Galerie Delacroix,
housed in the French Cultural
Institute next door, temporary
exhibitions are organized by
the Institut Français. The Hôtel
elMinzah, dating from 1930,
is one of the most illustrious
hotels in Morocco, with an
Andalusianstyle courtyard and
The Grand Socco, also known as Place du 9 Avril 1947 gardens, comfortable lounges
Fishing harbour with the medina in the background
TA N G I E R  143
performed. The building, with an

Art Deco façade, is in a bad state
of repair. Restoration has been
delayed by disputes between the
city and the Spanish state, which
had undertaken to finance
its upkeep.
u Great Synagogue
27 Avenue Pasteur.
P Librairie des Colonnes
54 Avenue Pasteur.
t Ancien Palais
The dilapidated Art Deco façade of the Gran Teatro Cervantes du Mendoub
Avenue Mohammed Tazi (in the
and bars. Winston Churchill, Paul given over to the Spanish northwest of Ville Nouvelle).
and Jane Bowles, Jean Genet custom of the paseo, a leisurely Closed to the public.
and Hollywood stars from Rita evening stroll. The Moroccan
Hayworth to Errol Flynn stayed tourist office, at No. 29, The Mendoub was the sultan’s
in this magical place. occupies the first building to representative during the
be constructed on the avenue, international administration
E Galerie Delacroix while the villa at No. 27 houses of Tangier. While his main
86 Rue de la Liberté. Tel (0539) 93 21 the Great Synagogue. The residence was the Mendoubia,
34. Open 11am–1pm, 4–8pm Librairie des Colonnes, the near the Grand Socco, this
Tue–Sun. bookshop at No. 54, has lost palace, built in 1929, was used
some of its former prestige mostly for receptions. It was
and importance. All the writers acquired in 1970 by Malcolm
e Place de France & Forbes (1919–90), the
in Tangier, whether visitors or
Place de Faro residents, regularly patronized American multimillionaire
this bookshop, which stocks who founded Fortune
Place de France is a major most available books on magazine. It became a luxury
meeting place for the Tangier. Lectures and signing residence where Forbes
inhabitants of Tangier. The Café sessions are still held here. threw lavish parties and where
de Paris, which opened in 1920, The Gran Teatro Cervantes such international stars as
was the first establishment to (accessible from Avenue Pasteur, Elizabeth Taylor were guests.
open outside the medina. which is reached along Rue du The house also contained a
Among its regular customers Prince Moulay Abdallah and via display of Forbes’ 120,000
were Paul Bowles, Tennessee steps continuing from it) piece collection of toy soldiers.
Williams and Jean Genet, as well opened in 1913. One of North The Palace is now state-
as foreign diplomats. The café Africa’s major theatres, it was owned and will be used as
has remained a hub of city life. here that the greatest singers a residence for important
Very near Place de France, on and dancers of the age visitors from abroad.
Avenue Pasteur, is Place de Faro
(named after the Portuguese
town twinned with Tangier in
1984), complete with cannons.
It is one of the few places to
have escaped the attentions of
the developers. It offers a view
of the medina and of ferry
traffic in the harbour and
the strait.
r Avenue Pasteur
Together with Avenue
Mohammed V, which extends
eastwards from it, Avenue
Pasteur is Ville Nouvelle’s main
artery and its economic centre.
In the evening, the avenue is The elegant Ancien Palais du Mendoub
y Café Hafa u Quartier du residential location, and high

Rue Mohammed Tazi (in a narrow Marshan officals and the shorfa of
street opposite the football stadium, Ouezzane built their palaces
Rue Mohammed Tazi, Rue Assad Ibn and grand villas here in the
leading towards the sea). Farrat, Avenue Hassan II (western part late 19th century. The Italian
of the kasbah).
The café opened in 1921, and Consulate (Rue Assad Ibn
neither the furniture nor the Farrat), rebuilt in 1916 and with
decor seem to have changed Located west of the kasbah, walls covered in zellij tilework,
since then. Assorted tables the Quartier du Marshan was housed Garibaldi in 1849–50.
and rush matting are laid out developed from the late The former palace of the sultan
on terraces rising in tiers from 19th to the early 20th Moulay Hafid, in Moorish style,
the edge of the cliff, offering century. Being removed became the Palais des
a breathtaking view of the from the bustle of Institutions Italiennes in
strait. Writers and singers, the medina and of 1926. On the edge of
from Paul Bowles to William Ville Nouvelle, it was the strait, the
Burroughs and from the Beatles an attractive
to the Rolling Stones, have
come here, seeking
out Tangier’s young
generation or the
company of local
fishermen. People
come here to smoke
and drink mint tea,
which is probably
brewed exactly as
it was in 1921. An elegant villa in the Quartier du Marshan
Beaches Around Tangier

The Bay of Tangier, a grand crescent that is sometimes
likened to the Baie des Anges in Nice or to Copacabana in
Rio de Janeiro, stretches for almost 4 km (2.5 miles) from
the edge of the port round to the residential districts and
resort areas and to the first spurs of land that mark its
eastern extremity. The proximity of the city and the rivers
that flow into it unfortunately make this the most polluted
beach in Morocco. For swimming and sunbathing, it is
3 The Bay of Tangier forms a
better to make for the beaches between Cap Spartel and splendid and extensive sweep, but
the Grottes d’Hercule and beyond, or for the coves of Cap is unfortunately very polluted.
Malabata, or, further east, the beaches at Sidi Khankroucht
and Ksar es-Seghir.
2 Between Tangier and

Cap Spartel, small coves are Cap Spartel
reachable on foot from the
Perdicaris Belvedere. The
walk down passes through
mimosa and woods of TANGIER
umbrella pine.
Grottes
d’Hercule
1 Between Cap Spartel

and the Grottes d’Hercule
Asilah
are many attractive little
bays separated by rocky 0 km 2
outcrops. 0 miles 2

TA N G I E R  145
Marshan ends at the limits of in among them, at the foot of

Hafa, a poorer residential district the hill, can be seen Plaza Toro,
with a great deal of local colour, whose bullrings are now used
up on the sea cliff. for public functions. Further
north is the Syrian Mosque, with
a style of minaret rarely seen in
i Colline du Charf the Maghreb.
The mosque-like building on
In the southeast of the city.
the hill was a café during Tangier’s fishing harbour, at the foot
A hill rising to a height of about Tangier’s international period. A of the medina
100 m (328 ft), the Colline du favourite form of relaxation for
Charf commands the most the inhabitants of Tangier is to green and orange of the nets,
impressive and most complete stroll on the hill or sit and gaze the small fishing harbour is a
view of Tangier. out over the strait. colourful sight, and the freshly
The panorama stretches from caught fish that is offered makes
Cap Malabata in the east to La a delicious meal.
Montagne, which rises over the o Bay of Tangier It was on Avenue d’Espagne
old town to the west. From here that Bernardo Bertolucci shot
the beach appears as a strip Between the port and Cap scenes for his 1990 film The
lining the bay, and the white, Malabata, the bay forms a Sheltering Sky. Many literary
densely packed medina seems beach-lined semicircle. Avenue works, by William Burroughs
to cling to the hillside as it d’Espagne, which runs along and others, took shape in the
slopes down towards the port, the bay, is lined with hotels, small guesthouses here. The
while the high-rise blocks of from small guesthouses to large French philosopher Michel
Ville Nouvelle stand along its modern establishments. Dotted Foucault would stay at the
wide avenues. Poorer residential with the blues, reds and whites Hôtel Cecil, while Samuel
districts stretch out southwards: of the boats and the ochre, Beckett preferred the Solazur.
6 The double beach at Sidi

Khankroucht, at Km 18, beneath
shaded hills, is clean and pleasant.
Chez Hassan is a small, friendly
restaurant here.
7 Wadi Aliane is an attractive

4 The beach at Mrissa,
sandy beach with a small resort
beneath Cap Malabata, has 5 Plage des Amiraux has
complex that is still in the process
fine, soft sand and is well developed in front of the elegant of being built.
sheltered by stands of pine. houses of a small village. Ksar es-Seghir
Ceuta
Cap Malabata
8 At Ksar es-Seghir,
33 km (20 miles) along a
road with beautiful
scenery, a splendid beach
Tétouan Key stretches out in front of
woods and groves from
Motorway
which emerge the ruins of
Major road Almohad, Merinid and
Minor road Portuguese buildings.
MEDITERRANEAN
COAST & THE RIF
The great mountainous crescent of the Rif forms a natural
barrier across northern Morocco. Its proud Berber-speaking
inhabitants haughtily guard their traditions and independence,
and historically the Rif has always resisted conquest. The Rif,
today, is friendly and welcoming, with sandy Mediterranean
coves and beaches, many of them with a backdrop of
majestic cliffs.
Inaccessible and intricately partitioned, defeated at Anoual in 1921 (see p60). The
the Rif reaches a height of 2,452 m (8,047 ft) history of the Rif and its coastline is closely
at Jbel Tidirhin, in the central part of the linked to that of Spain. For Morocco, the
mountain range, then tails away eastwards Mediterranean became a bridgehead for
towards the Moulouya estuary and the the conquest of Spain. From the 15th
Algerian border. The northwestern Rif is a century, the Portuguese occupation,
region of low mountains and hills dotted followed by that of the Spanish, cut
with villages, while the central part consists Morocco off from the Mediterranean
of lofty summits and enclosed valleys. To and accelerated its decline. Spain still
the east, what is regarded as the real Rif maintains a foothold in Ceuta and Melilla,
gently slopes away. and on a few rocky islets. Morocco has
All Riffians fiercely defend their cultural worked for closer cooperation with Spain
identity. The Spanish, to whom the region and Europe to tackle problems of illegal
fell when Morocco was divided under trafficking and emigration here. The
the French Protectorate, came face to increase of tourism in Tangier and Ceuta
face with this intransigence during the has resulted in dramatic changes to the
uprisings of 1921–6 and were soundly area, including a modern port and airport.
The fishing harbour at Al-Hoceima

A brightly painted wooden door in the town of Chefchaouen
Exploring the Mediterranean Coast & the Rif

Stretching from the land of the Jebala in the west to Morocco’s eastern frontier, the Rif
presents a great variety of landscapes. Here are high, steep valleys where almond trees
blossom and oleanders flower, mountain roads that command wild and magnificent vistas,
forests of cedar, fir and oak, and villages and isolated houses with pitched tin roofs. Between
Ceuta and Cabo Negro, the coast is punctuated by sweeping beaches of golden sand and,
from Wadi Laou to Al-Hoceima and Saïdia, by more secluded bays beneath rocky cliffs. The
medinas of Tetouan and Chefchaouen are among the most picturesque in Morocco.
S PA I N Gibraltar
Algeciras
ar
Tarifa ra l t
Gib
t of
CAP S t ra i
MALABATA CEUTA
CAP SPARTEL
KSAR ES-
GROTTES
D’HERCULE TANGIER SEGHIR
TETOUAN
Larache
Mediterranean
Souk-el-Arba- Sea
des-Beni-Hassan
ou
Bou Ahmed
i La
d
Wa
Souk-Khémis- TORRES
des-Beni-Arouss EL-JEBHA DE ALCALÁ
CHEFCHAOUEN Aït-
T Beni-Boufrah Kamara
H
Bab-Taza E
Djebel Khesena R I F
1695m Bab-Berret
Targuist
Djebel Lebiar KETAMA
1381m
Asjen Djebel Tidirhine
2448m
OUEZZANE
Souk el-Arba
du Rharb Tahar-Souk
Âïn-Dorij
ba
err
Moulay Djebel Teirara
Taounate
Idriss Ou 1826m
di
Wa
Fès-el-Bali
Âïn-Âïcha
Fès
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Track
Railway
International border
Carpets for sale in the medina Summit
in Oujda
MEDITERRANEAN COAST & THE RIF  149
Sights at a Glance Tangier

r Nador Melilla
1 Cap Spartel
t Melilla
2 Grottes d’Hercule
y Cap des Trois Fourches
3 Cap Malabata Fès
u Moulouya Estuary
4 Ksar es-Seghir
o Saïdia
5 Ceuta
p Oujda
6 Tetouan pp152–3 Figuig
a Figuig
7 Chefchaouen pp154–5
8 Ouezzane Tour Area shown by map
9 The Rif pp158–9 i Zegzel Gorge below
0 Ketama
q El-Jebha
w Torres de Alcalá
e Al-Hoceima
Getting Around
Air links to the region arrive in Tangier,
Al-Hoceima, Melilla and Oujda. Once there, it is
better to hire a car rather than use grands taxis.
Having your own means of transport gives you
the freedom to stop off at secluded beaches
and seek out the high valleys. In this
mountainous environment, the roads are
sometimes in a bad state of repair, and
there are often roadworks, particularly
along the arterial routes.
CAP DES
TROIS FOURCHES
MELILLA
Aazanèn Beni Enzar
AL-HOCEIMA
Ras Kebdana
NADOR
Qariat SAÏDIA
Im Zouren
Arkmane MOULOUYA
Ben-Tieb ESTUARY
Driouch
Zaïo Ahfir
Kech-Kech ya Berkane
1613m Midar u
lo
Et-Tleta- ou ZEGZEL
Kassita M
Bou-Beker GORGE
di
Wa
Mechrâ- Sidi- OUJDA

Hamadi Bouhria Sidi-
Aknoul Yahia
Saka
Melga-el-
Ouidane El-Âïoun
Dar-Caïd- FIGUIG
Medboh (320 km / 200 miles)
Guercif Taourirt
0 km 20
0 miles 20
Snow-capped peaks in the Rif

1 Cap Spartel
Road Map D1. 14 km (9 miles) west
of Tangier.
From Tangier, the road leading

to Cap Spartel runs through La
Montagne, the city’s western
suburb, which is bathed in the
perfume of eucalyptus and
mimosa. Long walls surround
the residences of Moroccan,
Kuwaiti and Saudi kings and
princes and the luxury villas
dating from the golden age of
Tangier’s international period.
Beyond stretch forests of
holm-oak, cork oak, umbrella
pine, mastic-tree, broom and
heather, which all flourish here, The unfinished medieval “castle” at Cap Malabata
watered by the highest rainfall
in Morocco. stones here and quarried 3 Cap Malabata
At the cape, the most millstones for use in oil presses. Road Map D1. 12 km (7.5 miles) east
northwesterly point of Africa, The opening to the caves, of Tangier.
is the promontory known in facing onto the sea, is a cleft
antiquity as Cape Ampelusium shaped like a reversed map The route out of Tangier skirts
or Cape of the Vines, and a of Africa. an area of large tourist hotels
lighthouse dating from 1865. According to legend, Hercules and continues eastwards
From beneath the lighthouse, slept here before performing round the curve of the bay.
there is a breathtaking view one of his 12 labours – picking Soon after a tiny estuary, at
of the ocean where the the golden apples in the Garden the edge of the road, are the
Mediterranean and Atlantic of the Hesperides. The location remains of a 16th-century
meet, and on clear days you of the legendary garden fortress, from which Moroccan
can see the strait and coast belonging to these nymphs of soldiers could watch and
of Spain from Cape Trafalgar darkness and guarded by the attack the Portuguese, Spanish
to the Rock of Gibraltar. dragon with 100 heads is said and English occupiers of
to be further south, near Lixus. Tangier. Nearby, white
The best time to visit the crenellated walls surround the
caves is in the late afternoon, lush and extensive grounds of
after which the light of the the Villa Harris. It was once
setting sun can be enjoyed from the residence of Walter Harris
the cafés nearby. Further south, (1866–1953), a flamboyant
beneath the level of the caves, journalist and diplomatic
are the Ruins of Cotta (1st correspondent for The Times.
century BC to 3rd century AD). He chronicled life in Tangier
With vats for salting fish, making for many years from 1892.
garum and producing purple The road ascending the hills
dye, this was one of the largest passes through magnificent
industrial centres of the Punic- pine forests and by many small
Mauretanian period. coves where there are cafés
which, like Café Ryad, have an
old-world charm. Just before
The lighthouse at Cap Spartel, where sea the cape, a strange building
and ocean meet appears. Conceived in the
medieval style, it was the work
of a whimsical Italian, who left
2 Grottes d’Hercule it unfinished in the 1930s.
The view from Cap Malabata
southwest of Cap Spartel. & is stunning, especially in the
morning, looking westwards
At the place known as Achakar, over the city and suburbs of
the sea has carved impressive Tangier and across to the Straits
caves out of the cliff. The people of Gibraltar, and eastwards
who, from prehistoric times, The Grottes d’Hercule, like a reversed to Jbel Moussa, which rises
came to these caves knapped map of Africa over Ceuta.
4 Ksar es-Seghir
Road Map D1. 33 km (20 miles) east
of Tangier. * 8,800. ( Sat.
A town with a small fishing

harbour and a fine beach, Ksar
es-Seghir faces the Spanish
town of Tarifa across the Straits
of Gibraltar. The souk that takes
place here on Saturdays is
filled with women of the Rif,
conspicuous in their white, red-
striped foutas.
Since the 17th century,
forts have stood on this well-
sheltered spot on an estuary,
and it was from here that
Moroccan troops set sail for
Spain. The Almohads made Ceuta, resembling an amphitheatre on the isthmus linking it to the mainland
it an important centre of
shipbuilding and skilled crafts. From the 12th century Baroque style. On the high altar
The remains of buildings in a onwards, the town was visited stands a statue of the Virgin,
small forest are those of a town by traders from Genoa, Pisa, patroness of Ceuta, who is
built by the Merinids in the Marseilles and Catalonia. In 1415, believed to have saved the town
14th century. The circular walls Ceuta became a Portuguese from an epidemic of plague in
that surround it are unusual, enclave, then passed to Spain the 16th century. The cathedral
but were obviously preferred in 1578. Today, it is an important treasury contains some fine
to the customary square plan garrison town. Its livelihood paintings, banners and 17th-
by the town’s Muslim builders; depends mainly on the tax-free century illuminated books.
the gateway facing the sea trade that its status as a free The Ayuntamiento (town
is the best-preserved. The port allows. Ceuta (like Melilla) hall), built in 1929, is of interest
Portuguese, who held the is a self-governing town within to visitors for the paintings that
town from 1458 to 1549, the Spanish state. Morocco it contains by Mariano Bertuchi,
strengthened it with new views the Spanish presence an artist active during the
fortifications that reached as anachronistic and colonial period.
to the sea. claims sovereignty. The Museo Municipal
The 12-km (7.5-mile) circuit El Revellin (Archaeological
of Monte Hacho (part of it Museum) is laid out above
accessible by road) affords views underground passages dug
over the town, the mountains in the 16th and 17th centuries
and coast of the Rif and to supply the town with water.
Gibraltar, especially from the The displays include Neolithic,
lighthouse at Punto Almina. Carthaginian and Roman
The Castillo del Desnarigado, pottery, including amphorae,
a fortress that is now a military as well as coins and armour.
museum, encloses the Ermita Through maps, photographs
de San Antonio. This chapel and visual displays, the Museo
Ksar es-Seghir, an attractive draws a large pilgrimage on de la Legión documents the
coastal town 13 June each year. activities of the Spanish Foreign
The Plaza de Africa is, in Legion and its efforts in 1921–6
architectural terms, the centre to subdue the Rif uprising and
5 Ceuta of the town, where the main the rebel leader Abdel Krim.
public buildings are concentrated. The legion, formed in 1920,
east of Tangier. * 75,000. n Calle The cathedral, whose present suffered serious losses during
Edrissis, Edif Baluarte de los appearance dates from the this war.
Mallorquines; 00 34 856 20 05 60. 18th century, stands on the site
of a Grand Mosque. Religious E Museo Municipal El Revellin
Standing on a narrow isthmus paintings and objects are On the corner of Paseo de Revellín
between Monte Hacho and displayed in its museum. and Calle Ingenieros. Tel 00 34 956 51
the mainland, Ceuta occupies Nuestra Señora de Africa 73 98. Open 11am–2pm, 5–9pm Tue–
a favourable location opposite (the Church of Our Lady of Sat & 11am–2pm public hols. &
Gibraltar. The Rock of Gibraltar Africa) was built in the early E Museo de la Legión
and Monte Hacho are the two 18th century, also on the site Paseo de Colón. Open 9am–5pm
legendary Pillars of Hercules. of a mosque, in an arresting Tue–Sat & Mon. Closed Sun. &
6 Tetouan
In the words of Arab poets, Tetouan is a white dove, “the sister
of Fès”, “the little Jerusalem” or “the daughter of Granada”. The
town, built partly on the slopes of Jbel Dersa, was inhabited
by Jewish refugees from Granada in the 15th century, then
by Moors from Andalusia in the 17th century. The town’s
Andalusian heritage can be seen in its medina, and also in its
culinary traditions, as well as in its music and in the craft of
embroidery. From the 15th to the 18th centuries, Tetouan
was a lively centre of privateering, then of thriving trade with
Europe, becoming a sort of city-state comparable to Florence
or to Venice at the time of the doges. In the 18th century, the The church on Place Moulay el-Mehdi,
town was the diplomatic capital of Morocco. The Spanish, built in 1926
who held it from 1860 to 1862, made it their capital during
the Protectorate, building a new town on the west side of including a depiction of
the Three Graces of classical
the old Andalusian medina.
mythology, as well as pottery,
coins, bronzes and other
pieces, are displayed. The most
interesting exhibits – such as
ancient inscriptions, mosaic
floors and Muslim funerary
stelae with the Star of David –
are laid out in the garden.
P Medina
Entry through Place Hassan II, then via
Rue Ahmed Torres to the southeast.
Tetouan’s medina, now a
World Heritage Site, is the
most strongly Andalusian of all
Moroccan medinas. Emigrants
from Spain who arrived in
the 15th and 17th centuries
implanted their architectural
Place Hassan II, a link between Ville Nouvelle and the medina traditions here, including a taste
for wrought-iron decoration and
P Ville Nouvelle royal palace that stands on a liking for doors with elaborate
Place Moulay el-Mehdi and Boulevard the side of the square nearest the metal fittings.
Mohammed V. medina. Both the boulevard The aroma of spices, freshly
It is on Place Moulay el-Mehdi – and the square come to life in sawn wood and kesra (bread)
which is sometimes still referred the evenings with the paseo fills the medina’s narrow streets,
to by the town’s inhabitants as (promenade), a Spanish custom squares and souks, which bustle
Place Primo (after the Spanish that is more deeply ingrained in with carpenters, slipper-makers,
politician José Primo de Rivera) Tetouan than elsewhere drapers, tanners and sellers
– that the Spanish colonial in Morocco. of second-hand goods. Rue
architecture of Ville Nouvelle El-Mokadem (between Place
(New Town) is at its most E Musée Archéologique Souk el-Fouqui and Place
eloquent. With a main post office, Boulevard El-Jazaïr, near Place El-Jala. Gharsa el-Kebira) is the street
bank and church (1926), the Open Mon–Fri pm only. &
square looks like any other central The rooms of the
town square in Spain. Elegant Archaeological Museum
homes with doors, windows and contain objects dating
balconies with Moorish-style from the Roman period
ornamentation can be seen on that were discovered at
Boulevard Mohammed V, the Volubilis, Lixus and
town’s principal thoroughfare. Thamuda, a Roman site
Place Hassan II links Ville on the outskirts of
Nouvelle and the medina. present-day Tetouan
Modern tiling has replaced the (on the road to
old mosaic decoration of the Chefchaouen). Mosaics, Kesra (bread) on sale in the El-Fouqui Souk
Road Map D1. * 310,000.
n 30 Bld Mohammed V; (0539)
96 19 15. ( Wed, Fri, Sun by
Place Moulay-el-Medhi.
Transport
k 5 km (3 miles). £ Tnine-Sidi-
Lyamani. @
mosaic-making, carpet-
weaving and decorative
plasterwork. The students’
work is displayed in a domed
exhibition hall.
The medina, on the slopes of Jbel Dersa
most densely packed with in an Andalusian palace with a

shops, but also one of the most garden, a fountain clad in zellij
noteworthy for its impressive tilework, and red-tiled awnings,
white buildings and its paving. typical of buildings in Tetouan.
Sellers of fabrics and pottery fill The furniture, the crafted pieces,
the small shady square where the costumes and musical
the El-Houts Souk takes place. instruments illustrate the town’s
It leads to the former mellah, traditions. Tetouani rooms,
Tetouan’s Jewish quarter, where with marriage scenes (such as
the balconied houses have large putting together the trousseau
windows, wrought-iron gates and presenting the bride),
and arcaded façades. have also been convincingly
re-created.
E Musée d’Art Marocain The Craft School, near the
Avenue Hassan Ier and Rue Sqala, museum, opposite Bab Oqla,
near Bab Oqla. Tel (0539) 97 27 21. occupies a residence built in
Open 9am–6pm Wed–Mon (times vary). 1928 in Moorish style. Specializing
Occupying a bastion built in in local traditions, the school Detail of a façade on Boulevard
1828, the museum is laid out teaches leatherwork, pottery, Mohammed V
Tetouan’s Jews
A large Jewish community, expelled from Spain at the
end of the Christian Reconquest, settled in Tetouan,
thrived here and reached its height in the 16th century.
Like the many Muslims who had also arrived from
Spain, these Jews cherished the memory of Andalusia
as a lost paradise. On feast days, they would listen to
Andalusian music and don Andalusian costume
and jewellery.
Exploiting their contacts in Gibraltar, Antwerp,
Amsterdam and London, Tetouan’s Jews played a
central role in the economic life of the town and
through them it became an important trade link
with the West. At the beginning of the 19th century,
subjected to violence and heavily taxed, the Jews
repaired to a quarter of their own, the judería.
Marginalized in professional and social life, many Jews
left to settle in Melilla, Gibraltar or Iran, and also in Latin
America. Despite an improvement in their situation
under Spanish rule, the Jewish community – which still
counted some 3,000 people in 1960 – continued to
shrink progressively after independence, many leaving
for Israel. By the early 1990s, there were no more than Jewish Feast Day in Tetouan, painting by Alfred
200 Jews remaining in Tetouan. Dehodencq (1822–82)
7 Chefchaouen
The white town of Chefchaouen nestles in the hollow of the
two mountains – ech-Chaoua (The Horns) – from which it
takes its name. Steep narrow streets with white and indigo
limewashed buildings, small squares, ornate fountains and
houses with elaborately decorated doorways and red tile
roofs make this a delightful town. It was founded in 1471 by
Idrissid shorfa, descendants of the Prophet Mohammed, as a
stronghold in the fight against the Portuguese. Chefchaouen,
esteemed as a holy town, has eight mosques and several
zaouias and marabouts.
Courtyard of the kasbah, around which the

museum is laid out
P Kasbah and Museum

West corner of Place Uta el-Hammam.
Open 9am–6pm Wed–Mon (till 1pm
Fri). Closed Tue & Fri pm. &
The kasbah, with crenellated
walls of red beaten earth and
ten bastions, is the essential
heart of the town. The fortress
was begun in the 15th century
by Moulay Ali ben Rachid, and
was completed by Moulay
Ismaïl in the 17th century, as
A café on Place Uta el-Hammam, in the heart of the town was the residence within. The
kasbah’s plan and architectural
P Place Uta el-Hammam The later minaret, which style show Andalusian
The square is the heart of the dates from the 17th century, is influence. A pleasant garden
old town and the focal point distinctive in being octagonal. with fountains is laid out within,
on which all the streets of the It is decorated with three tiers from where there is a good view
medina converge. It is lined with of plain and lobed arches on a of the walls and the rampart
trees, and paved with stones and painted ochre background. The walk. The Musée Ethnographique
pebbles, and in the centre stands uppermost tier is decorated (Ethnographic Museum)
a four-sided fountain decorated with zellij tilework. occupies the residence built in
with arches and crowned by a the garden. This is a traditional
pavilion of green tiles. With shops P Fondouk Moroccan house with a
and cafés, this is an ideal place Corner of Place Uta el-Hammam courtyard and gallery on the
for a relaxed stroll. and Rue Al-Andalus. first floor. The museum contains
The fondouk still serves the displays of pottery, armour,
U Grand Mosque purpose for which it was embroidery, costume, musical
Place Uta el-Hammam. Closed to originally built. About 50 rooms, instruments, palanquins and
non-Muslims. arranged around the courtyard, painted wooden chests.
The Grand Mosque was still accommodate travellers
founded probably in the and passing traders. P Medina
16th century and has been re- It is a building of strikingly A small street running between
modelled several times since. simple design, with a gallery the kasbah and the Grand
of semicircular arches Mosque leads to the Souïka
lining the pebble- district. This is the oldest district
paved courtyard. The of Chefchaouen, and the town’s
only contrast to this finest houses, with carved and
simplicity is provided decorated doors, are found
by the main entrance; here. The name souïka, meaning
the doorway is “little market”, comes from the
surmounted by an district’s kissaria, where there
awning and framed are many small shops along
by a broken horseshoe its narrow streets.
arch surrounded by The medina contains more
The fondouk, with rooms round the courtyard interlacing arches. than 100 weavers’ workshops.
P Quartier VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Al-Andalus
This district is Practical Information
reached from Road Map D1.
the northwestern * 45,000. n (0539) 96 19 15.
corner of Place Uta _ Moussem of Sidi Allal el-Hadj
el-Hammam, leaving (9 Aug). ( Mon & Thu.
the fondouk on the Transport
left. The Quartier @
Al-Andalus received
the second wave
of immigrants – Beyond is the spring of Ras
Muslims and Jews el-Ma, which is now enclosed
Narrow street with houses painted white and blue expelled from by a building. The presence of
Spain – who arrived this underground spring was
Indeed, Chefchaouen is famous in 1492, after the fall of Granada. the reason why the town was
for the woollen jellabas that Here, the houses, painted established here. It accounts
are woven here, as well as for white, green or blue, have for the town’s lush gardens,
the red and white striped decorated doors and wrought- and the water also powers
fabrics worn by the women of iron railings at some of their the mills. Steps leading
the Jebala, a tribe of the windows. They follow the steep towards the metalled road run
mountainous western Rif. One gradient of the terrain, which alongside the wash-houses,
such weaver’s workshop is makes for many exterior then the mills, whose origins
located in Rue Ben Dibane, stairways and entrances at go back to the arrival of the
which is identifiable by an various levels. Andalusian refugees.
exterior stairway. The route then leads to
One of the most distinctive } Ras el-Ma and the Mills the bridge across Wadi Laou,
fountains in Chefchaouen is The steep streets of Al-Andalus which is built in the form of a
Aïn Souika, set in a recess in leading up towards the semicircular arch with bevelled
the district’s main street. mountain pass through Bab buttresses. With its cascades,
Covered by a porch, it has Onsar, the town’s northeast wash-houses and cafés, this
a semicircular basin and gateway, which has been is one of the most pleasant
interlaced lobed arches. restored and renovated. quarters of Chefchaouen.
Chefchaouen Town Centre

1 Place Uta el-Hammam
2 Grand Mosque
3 Fondouk
4 Kasbah and Museum
5 Medina
6 Quartier Al-Andalus
Bab
Majarrok
Ras
el-Ma
Bab
Onsar
QUARTIER
AL-ANDALUS
AY
OUL Bab Suk
AV E N U E M A M
L
A BDESSA
MEDINA
TA R B E N R
AL I
PLACE EL
IQ
TANGIER
Fondouk MAKHZEN
M O C H ID
Place Uta
A
ULA
Mosque el-Hammam
Kasbah ou
Y
and Museum
a
AV E N U
iL
E HA
S RU E
ad
SAN LALL
II A E Grand
L HO
W
Bab el Ain RA Mosque
Market
Area
Bus Station
1.5 km (1 mile) II
AN
SS
A
H
E
AVEN U
0 metres 200
0 yards 200

A mantle of olive trees covering the hills near Ouezzane
8 Ouezzane 9 The Rif q El-Jebha

Road Map D2. 60 km (37 miles) south See pp158–9. Road Map D1. 137 km (85 miles) east
of Chefchaouen. * 70,000. @ of Tetouan along the coast road N16;
( Thu. 73 km (45 miles) from Ketama on the
0 Ketama N2 then the P4115. ( Tue.
A large market town, Ouezzane Road Map DE1. 107 km (66 miles)
spreads out over the slopes of east of Chefchaouen on the N2, the The small fishing town of
Jbel Bou Hillal, in a landscape “Route des Crêtes” (Mountain Crests ElJebha nestles at the end
of extensive olive groves and Road). ( Wed. of Fishermen’s Point. Its one
plantations of fig trees fed by storey, cubelike houses,
abundant springs. It is important Located in the heart of a covered in white roughcast,
for its textiles (jellabas and forest, Ketama used to be a give it a typically Mediterranean
carpets) and olive oil. popular summer and winter air. On the right of the harbour,
In the 15th century, the resort but the presence and where lamparo boats are
town, which was populated by perseverance of illegal kif and moored, is Crayfish Cove,
Andalusians, also counted many hashish salesmen will make which is ideal for underwater
Jews among its inhabitants. It most visitors move on. fishing. On the left, a soft
began to prosper in the 18th Leaving the town, the road sandy beach stretches away
and 19th centuries under the leading eastward reveals the towards the west.
influence of the Idrissid shorfa. slopes of Jbel Tidirhin (or
In 1727, a descendant of Idriss II Tidiquin), at 2,448 m (8,034 ft)
established the religious brother the highest peak in the Rif. In w Torres de Alcalá
hood of the Taïbia, whose influence the valleys, the houses have Road Map E1. 144 km (89 miles) from
spread throughout Morocco, pitched roofs, with a covering Chefchaouen and 72 km (45 miles)
Algeria and Tunisia. In the 19th of planks and corrugated from Ketama on the N2 then
century, the shorfa played a metal, the modern substitute the P5205.
prominent religious and political for thatch. In some villages,
role in Morocco. The sherif of such as Taghzoute, the craft Located on the estuary of Wadi
Ouezzane’s policy of openness of leather embroidery is very Bou Frah, the fishing village of
also assisted trade relations with much alive. Torres de Alcalá lies at the foot
France. The Zaouia (or Green of a peak crowned
Mosque) and, with its zellij by the ruins of a
covered minaret, the Mosque of Spanish fortress.
Moulay Abdallah Cherif, founder About 5 km (3 miles)
of the Taïbia brotherhood, further east is Peñon
attract many pilgrims. de Velez de la
Jews also come to Asjen, Gomera, a tiny
8 km (5 miles) west of the island attached to
town, to venerate the tomb of the mainland by a
Rabbi Abraham ben Diouanne, narrow spit of sand.
who died in about 1780. The Held by the Spanish
pilgrimage that takes place from 1508 to 1522, it
33 days after Easter is an occasion later became a hide
when Morocco’s Jewish out for pirates and
community acknowledges privateers. A convict
its allegiance to the king. The Peñon de Velez de la Gomera station under the
Protectorate, it is still under

Spanish sovereignty.
Some 4 km (2.5 miles) west
of Velez is Kalah Iris, a cove
that is an oasis of calm outside
the summer season.
e Al-Hoceima
Road Map E1. * 65,000. k 17 km
(10 miles). @ n Zankat Al Bahia;
(0539) 98 11 85. _ Festival late Jul–
early Aug. ( Tue.
This ancient fishing and trading

port, seat of the emirate of
Nokour during the Middle Ages,
was long the object of dispute The Peñon de Alhucemas off the Moroccan Coast at Al-Hoceima
between European traders. The
modern town was founded by the most impressive view of road to Nador, is unusual:
General Sanjurjo in 1926, at the bay. for the first few hours in the
the place where the Spanish A few dozen trawlers are day, only women may go
garrison landed, and was known usually moored in the harbour; there. Both Im Zouren and
initially as Villa Sanjurjo. in the evenings their lamparos Beni Bou Ayach, large market
The town’s location is one are lit up ready for a night’s fishing. towns on the road out of
of the most beautiful along Plage Quemado stretches Al-Hoceima, have a slightly
Morocco’s Mediterranean out in front of the town. This unreal appearance, created
coast. Whitewashed houses beach is better than others by largely empty residential
line the bay – an almost perfect near Al-Hoceima, such as that blocks painted in ochres, blues,
semicircle between two hilly at Asfiha, in the direction of greens and pinks. The towns
promontories. The coastline Ajdir, opposite the small island come to life for only a few
to the east, opposite the Peñon known locally as Nokour’s Rock. weeks of the year, when
de Alhucemas, a small island The souk at Im Zouren, emigrant workers based in
held by Spain, commands 17 km (10 miles) east on the Germany and Holland return.
Trawlers and fishing boats moored in the harbour at Al-Hoceima, with warehouses in the background
9 The Rif
This region is well known for its atmospheric and
beautiful medinas but, covering an area of some
30,000 sq km (11,580 sq miles), it offers much
else besides. Among its natural wonders are high
mountains, capes, gorges and rock formations.
The country souks held weekly in Riffian towns
and villages provide the opportunity to come into
contact with local people as they go about their daily Souk at Wadi Laou
business. In July, the moussem of Jbel Alam, one of The Saturday souk, where
Morocco’s best-known pilgrimages, takes place: women in foutas sell their
hand-made pottery
the object is the tomb of Moulay Abdesselam ben
Ceuta
goods, is the largest
Mchich, a highly venerated Sufi mystic who died and most colourful in
in 1228. In the environs of Chefchaouen, Tetouan the Rif.
ramblers and those with four-wheel-drive
J
Tangier
vehicles can visit one of the rare
collective granaries of the western
J
Rif at Akrar d’El-Kelaa, and the nature
reserve at Talassemtane, where the Souk el-Arba
fir forests are protected. des Beni Hassan
Laou
Bou Ahmed
adi
W
Jbel Tisouka
W
2,050 m
ad
J
Wadi M’Ter
(6,728 ft)
i Bouchia
Chefchaouen
Bab Taza
Ksar
El-Kebir
Bab Berret
The Jebala District
In a landscape of hills and middle- lai
ou
iA
altitude mountains, the villages of

W ad
Ouezzane
the Jebala tribe have taken root where
springs cascade from the hillside,
surrounded by olive groves and R if
smaller cereal plantations.
Gorge of Wadi Laou Mountain Crests Road

Running between sheer high cliffs This road commands breathtaking views of the mountains,
and below precariously perched villages and isolated houses of the Rif, as well as of the
villages, the gorge offers stunningly cultivated terraces, olive groves and forests of holm-oak
beautiful sights. that typify the region.
Road Map use a 1/100,000-scale
Riffian Coastline map of Chefchaouen, Ouezzane
East of the small and Al-Hoceima. Information
village of Torres on treks in the Chefchaouen
de Alcalá there are region is available from the
some attractive and Casa Hassan hotel in
unspoilt coves and Chefchaouen.
bays, including Kalah Tel (0539) 98 61 53.
Iris, a haven of calm Fax (0539) 98 81 96.
and solitude. ∑ casahassan.com
Guides, guesthouse accommoda-
tion and mules are provided.
Al-Hoceima
The coastal town of
Al-Hoceima, which nestles
around the bay, is a modest
resort that is quiet outside
the tourist season. The busy
harbour has many
restaurants.
Med it er ran ea n
Sea
Al-Hoceima
El-Jebha
J
J
Torres de
Alcalá
Bo kko y a s H i l l s
Wadi
Wa
di O
Nekor
ah
uri
Fr
i
ad
ng
W Melilla
a
is Kech-Kech
i Rh
ad Midar
W 1,613 m
(5,249 ft)
Targuist
Ketama
Mount Tidirhine
2,448 m
(8,034 ft) Taza
Key
Fès
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
0 kilometres 20
Track
0 miles 20
KEY
1 Al-Hoceima Bay, into which flow

the Wadi Nekor and Wadi Rhis, is
lined by a pleasant, peaceful beach.
2 Mount Tidirhine, the highest
point in the Rif, has an imposing
landscape of cedar and pine forests
that can be explored on foot or by Almond Trees
four-wheel-drive vehicle. When they blossom in the spring, almond trees bring a splash of
brilliant colour to this landscape of hills and man-made terraces.
r Nador
Road Map E1. 154 km (96 miles) east
of El-Hoceima and 13 km (8 miles)
south of Melilla. * 200,000. @ g
( Sun & Mon.
With wide avenues, shops, a

multitude of cafés, restaurants
and hotels, banks and residential
blocks, Nador, somewhat
unexpectedly, has all the
rappings of a major town. It is,
indeed, enjoying great prosperity.
Nador’s dramatic economic
growth has been fuelled both
by its traditional industries, The mountainous Mediterranean coastline near Melilla
such as metallurgy (its metal-
processing complex is supplied children. The goods are then Set on a rocky peninsula
with iron ore from the Rif and disposed of in broad daylight and enclosed within 16th- and
anthracite from Jerada) and by in two huge markets in Nador. 17th-century walls, the fortress-
modern ones, namely textiles, Beni Enzar, on the edge of like Medina Sidonia district
chemicals and electrics. The Nador, is the foremost fishing constitutes the upper town.
waves of emigration that have port on the Mediterranean The Puerta de la Marina leads
affected the whole of the coast, and it also has modern through to a tracery of alleys,
eastern Rif have also contributed naval dockyards. vaulted passages, steps and
significantly to Nador’s develop- several small squares, some with
ment. While immigrants here a chapel or church. The Puerta
are key investors and consumers, t Melilla de Santiago leads through to
funds sent home by workers Plaza de Armas, west of the
Sovereign Spanish town. Road Map E1.
from abroad have swelled the old town.
167 km (104 miles) east of El-Hoceima
town’s economy. and 153 km (95 miles) northwest of
The church of La Purísima
Nador’s location, 13 km Oujda. * 70,000. @ n Tourist and Concepción, in the northwest
(8 miles) from the Spanish information office near Plaza de Toros; of the old town, contains some
enclave of Melilla, also accounts (952) 67 54 44. _ Easter Week; Festival fine Baroque altarpieces; on
for the town’s prosperity, of Spain (early Jul); Our Lady of Victory the high altar stands an 18th-
through illegal trafficking. (early Sep). century statue of Our Lady of
Through well-oiled channels, Victory, patron saint of Melilla.
goods cross the border at many Although about 40 per cent of the Passing behind the church and
points, including Beni Enzar, population of the Spanish town following the ramparts, you
the border post nearest Melilla. of Melilla is Moroccan, the way will come to the Museo
Here, small consignments are of life here is still very Andalusian. Municipal (Town Museum).
transported across the border It was once a Carthaginian, then Here, Melilla’s Phoenician,
several times a day, packed in a Roman, trading post. Located Carthaginian and Roman periods
small trucks or loaded onto on the road from Fès and being are represented by ceramics,
the backs of women and the destination of caravans from coins and bracelets that were
Sijilmassa and the Sahara, Melilla discovered in the vicinity of
became a busy port during the the town. Various stone
Middle Ages. The town has been implements from the western
in Spanish hands since 1497. Sahara are also exhibited.
Under the Protectorate, Melilla The circular Plaza de España
underwent rapid development links the old town with the
thanks to its status as a free zone.
However, Moroccan indepen-
dence and the closure of the
border with Algeria cut it off
from the hinterland. The town
is now experiencing a difficult
period. Consumer demand in
this Spanish town means that
tax-free goods find a ready
market. This has contributed
to a thriving illegal trade, which
Typical Mediterranean cactus seen in turn creates the appearance View of the popular Spanish town
growing in the region of prosperity. of Melilla
Mediterranean coastal scenery and tower ruins at Torres de Alcalá
Kif
The cultivation of kif (cannabis) was once the preserve of a
few tribes around Ketama. Kif plantations have multiplied and
are now found in several provinces between Chefchaouen
and Al-Hoceima. Once grown only in the high valleys of the
central Rif, the plant is today also cultivated on the slopes of
low-lying valleys. Growing Cannabis sativa, “the curative herb”,
as well as Indian hemp, is highly lucrative and underpins the
Kif plantation in the Rif entire economy of the Rif. Although growing and smoking it
(which are traditional in the region) are tolerated on a
localized basis, its commercial exploitation is illegal. This has given rise to a major smuggling trade,
which the Moroccan authorities are fighting with financial assistance from the European Union. The
proposed solution is to introduce alternative crops and to open up the Rif by building a coastal road
from Tangier to Saïdia, passing through Ceuta and Al-Hoceima.
new, which was begun at the most beautiful promontories

the end of the 19th century. in Morocco.
Avenida del Rey Juan Carlos is The cape is lined with bays
the new town’s busiest street. and beaches nestling against the
rocky coast. However, the coast
E Museo Municipal road is narrow and difficult to
Plaza de D Pedro Estopinan. drive, so care should be taken.
Tel 952 97 62 16. Open Summer:
10am–1:30pm & 5–9:30pm Tue–Sat;
u Moulouya
Winter: 10am–1:30pm & 4–8:30pm
Tue–Sat, 10am–2pm Sun. Estuary
Closed Sun. &
Road Map E1. From Nador to Ras
Kebdana, then on to Saïdia, road N16. A peasant woman working in the
Moulouya valley
y Cap des Trois The whole area between the
Fourches Bou Areg lagoon and the dunes are home to woodcock,
Road Map E1. 30 km (18 miles) from
estuary of Wadi Moulouya is a plovers, herons and storks.
Melilla by road then track. rich and fascinating nature The vegetation in this
reserve. A great variety of birds area is equally diverse: spurge
The road from Beni Enzar to the – dunlin, plover, oystercatcher, and sea holly grow on the
Cap des Trois Fourches offers little egret, redshank, black- dunes, while glasswort, reeds
some stunning views of Melilla tailed godwit and flamingoes, and rushes cover the marshes,
and the Mediterranean Sea. The terns, and different species of which are the habitat of
part of the cape beyond the gulls – come to spend the dragonflies, grasshoppers
Charrana lighthouse is one of winter in this marshy area. The and sand spiders.
The Cap des Trois Fourches, offering some breathtaking views and stunning coastal landscapes
i Zegzel Gorge
One of the most scenic routes in Morocco is road P6012 from 2 Grotte du Chameau
Berkane to Taforalt. It follows the course of Wadi Zegzel as the Dug into the mountainside
by an underground hot
river winds through deep gorges and along valleys and stream, Grotte du Chameau
hillsides. Many of the caves that have been hollowed out of (Camel Cave) contains
the cliffs by the action of water, such as the Grotte du several great halls with
Chameau and Grotte de Tghasrout, contain impressive stalactites and stalagmites.
stalactites and stalagmites. Continuing along this road offers
breathtaking views of the mountains and the Angad plain,
and of almond groves, villages and isolated marabouts. Road
P6017 then road N2 lead back to Oujda, or Berkane via
Ahfir, a town established by the French in 1910.
Berkane
B eni S na s s en
e
rg
Go
Jbel Tamejout
J
1,065 m
Melilla (3,495 ft)
el
gz
Ze
Taforalt
1 Wadi Zegzel Gorge
With the reddish cliffs of El-Aïoun
the mountainside towering
above, the river valley 3 Beni-Snassen Mountains
traverses a lush green In several places, the road offers
landscape, sometimes spectacular views of the
widening in places where mountains, which bear the marks
it cuts through terraces of erosion. Here also are hamlets
planted with olive and with pisé houses and terraces with
fruit trees. vines and olive trees.
o Saïdia tourists. A folk arts festival is shops and the banks, and
Road Map F1. 50 km (31 miles) held at the Palais du Festival several large brasseries
northwest of Oujda. * 2,800. @ on Boulevard Mohammed V with spacious terraces, are
_ Folk Arts Festival (Aug). ( Sun. in August. concentrated on Avenue
Saïda is also home to a Mohammed V and around
At the northern extremity modern resort that overlooks Place du 16 Août 1953.
of the fertile Triffa plain, an a marina and accommodates The medina, still partly
agricultural and wine-growing more than 1,000 guests. enclosed by ramparts, is easy
area, is the little town of to explore, being small enough
Saïdia, located on the Wadi to wander about in without
Kiss estuary. For the last 20 km p Oujda becoming disoriented. Rue
(12 miles) before it reaches the Road Map F2. * 800,000. k 15 km
el-Mazouzi, a major axis, crosses
sea, this river constitutes the (9 miles). £ @ n Place du 16 Août the medina from west to east,
border between Morocco 1953; (0536) 68 56 31, and railway ending at Bab Sidi Abdel
and Algeria. station. _ Moussem of Sidi Yahia Ouahab. Various souks are
Saïdia is a coastal resort with (Sep). ( Wed & Sun. located on this main street.
a fine beach edged with mimosa The kissaria, which is lined
and eucalyptus, the reason The history of Oujda has been with arcades, has shops selling
behind the town’s name “Blue shaped by its geographical various types of textiles, kaftans
Pearl”. In summer the beach is location on a crossroads. In and velvets as well as looms
crowded with Moroccan the Ville Nouvelle, the main and skeins of wool. The small
4 View of Jbel Fourhal Key Tips for Drivers

The highest point of the Beni Suggested route Departure point: Berkane, 60 km
Snassen mountains, Jbel (37 miles) from Oujda on the N2.
Other roads
Fourhal (1,532 m/5,025 ft) is Length: 134 km (83 miles).
partly covered with forests Follow the P6012 for 20 km (12
of holm-oak and scarred by miles) along the Zegzel Gorge.
areas of limestone scree. 0 km 3 The Route de Corniche, skirts the
0 miles 3 Beni Snassen Mountains but is in
Saïdia a bad state of repair. Road P6017
leads back to the N2, for the
Ahfir return trip to Oujda.
Stopping-off points: Although
it is possible to find a meal in Ahfir,
it is best to take a picnic. Berkane
(Hotel Laetizia) offers basic
accommodation. For this trip it
Col de
Guerbouss is more convenient to stay at
539 m Oujda (Hotel Ibis Moussafir, Blvd
(1,769 ft)
Abdellah). Tel (0536) 68 82 02.
M ou n t a i n s
Oujda
Aïn Almou 5 Oulad Jabeur Fouaga
In this small village the houses that
cluster around the mosque have roofs of
earth and thatch, which is typical of the
region. Some have a central courtyard.
6 Almond Trees
Grown on terraces,
almond trees are
7 Beni-Snassen Mountain Road widely cultivated
This mountain road winds up the in the region. Their
hillsides and threads its way above blossom adds a splash
dramatic precipices. On certain days of colour to this often
there is a view of the Angad plain, harsh, high limestone
where the town of Oujda was built. environment.
squares where the El-Ma Souk tomb of Sidi Yahia ben Younes, covers almost 20 sq km
(Water Market) and the Attarine patron saint of Oujda. Venerated (8 sq miles). The water
Souk take place contain trees by Muslims, Jews and Christians provided by the artesian
and fountains, and are the living alike, he is equated with St John springs irrigates a large
centre of the medina. the Baptist. number of gardens, which lie
The Musée Ethnographique, behind clay walls. Zenaga, a
outside the ramparts, contains typical ksar, is the largest of
local costumes and items relating a Figuig the villages, while El-Oudaghir
to daily life in the region. Road Map F3. 368 km (229 miles)
is the administrative centre.
south of Oujda. * 14,600. The top of its minaret offers
E Musée @ from Oujda. n Oujda; a view of the palm grove.
Ethnographique (0536) 68 56 31. Figuig, at the crossroads
Parc Lalla Meriem. ( Tue & Sun. of major caravan routes,
Tel (0536) 68 56 31. was a busy caravanserai in
Open daily, times vary. & An oasis located at an the Middle Ages but lost its
altitude of 900 m importance later. More
Environs (2,955 ft), Figuig recently, the closure of the
Sidi Yahia, 6 km (4 consists of seven border with Algeria deprived
miles) east of Oujda, is villages, or ksour, it of its role as a border post,
an oasis with abundant Doorway in the spread out in a vast which it once shared
springs. Nearby is the medina at Oujda palm plantation that with Oujda.
FÈS
Located between the fertile lands of the Saïs and the forests of
the Middle Atlas, Fès is the oldest of Morocco’s imperial cities. It
is the embodiment of the country’s history and its spiritual and
religious capital, and has been declared a World Heritage Site
by UNESCO. Morocco’s third-largest city, it consists of Fès
el-Bali, the historic centre; Fès el-Jedid, the imperial city
of the Merinids; and, located further south, the modern
districts created under the Protectorate.
Idriss I founded Madinat Fas, on the right and economic metropolis, thanks in large
bank of the River Fès, in 789. In 808, his son, part to the founding of its university. In
Idriss II, built another town on the left 1250, the Merinids raised Fès to the status
bank, which was known as El-Alya (High of imperial capital and endowed it with
Town). In 818, these two cities, each within prestigious buildings. To the west of the
their own walls, received hundreds of old town they established a new royal city,
Muslim families who had been expelled Fès el-Jedid (New Fès). Conquered by the
from Córdoba. Soon afterwards, some 300 Alaouites in 1666, Fès was spurned by
refugee families from Kairouan, in Tunisia, Moulay Ismaïl, who chose Meknès as his
found asylum in El-Alya, which then capital. The city’s decline continued until
became known as Karaouiyine, after them. the early 20th century.
Within a few years, thanks to these two When the Protectorate was established
communities, the two towns became the in 1912, a Ville Nouvelle (New Town) was
centre of the Arabization and Islamization built. After independence this was filled by
of Morocco. the prosperous citizens of the old medina,
In the mid-11th century, the Almoravids while the country people, rootless and poor,
united the two towns, building a wall crowded into the old town of Fès el-Bali.
around them. The Almohads took the However, UNESCO’s ongoing restoration
city in 1145, after a long siege. Fès then programme has saved the old city. Today,
became the country’s foremost cultural Fès is home to over a million people.
The rooftops of the Karaouiyine Quarter, Fès el-Bali

The entrance to the King’s Palace Dar El Makhzen, Fès
Exploring Fès
Seen from the summit of the hill of the Merinid tombs,
Fès appears as a compact and tightly woven urban fabric.
Enclosed within its defensive walls, Fès el-Bali, the historic
medina, is a sea of rooftops from which emerge minarets
and domes. Wadi Fès separates the two historic entities:
the Andalusian Quarter to the east, and the Karaouiyine
Quarter to the west. Fès el-Jedid (see pp184–7) is built
on a height south of the medina. Notable features here
include the royal palace and the former Jewish quarter.
The Ville Nouvelle (New Town), dating from the The crowded Rue Talaa Kebira in
Protectorate, lies further south. Fès el-Bali
Hôtel Les
Mérinides
Key S
S
ID
FÈ
IN
Major sight R
E
DE
M
Sight S
DE
R
UE
U
Medina EN
O
AV EL MAKHTA
T
Ramparts
U
D
TE
PLACE
Bus U SMINE RA
Station O BI
R KE
KASBA
AA
EN NOUAR
ROU
L
Bab House of TA TA LÂ A
TE
el Mahrouk BAB ECH the Clock

CHERARDA U
E
CHORFA
DU
R
KASBAH LA
E TA A S E G H
IR A
R . RU
TO
PL BOU ED EL
UR
JELOUD DO
UH AY OU N
DE FÈS
SI D I
PL DE
R.
L’ISTIQLAL
Bab Lycée
Segma
RU
NÇ
AIS A V Moulay Idriss BATH A E E
TÉ
VIEUX FRA E DO
D
LIBER
MÉCHOUAR S UH
DE JARDINS
NU
U E E
Fès Bab A VEN DE BOU
i
Wad es Seba JELOUD
LA
PETIT Bab
DE
Bab MÉCHOUAR Jebala

Dekaken L’
DE
UN
Grand E
GR
U
ES
GRAND Mosque EN
AN
CO
AV
MÉCHOUAR
DE
Mosque
Bab Moulay Abdallah
RUE
Boujat
DE F
A
TH
ÈS E L-
Dar el-
BA
Makhzen
ID J ED
Bab el- Bus

LALLA MINA Semarine Station
Bab Jiaf
GARDENS S I S S AT
DU
U K H ES
BO ES
ID
IN
E ÉR
M
RU S
E
DE MELLAH UE
RU Danan EN
PLACE DE AV
DES N Synagogue
ALAOUITES RA
G
EL FASI
JARDIN BAB L
LA
JDID AL
USS AY
RD
YO MOUL
EF
VA
JARDIN DES LE
B D
U
ALAOUITES O
B
0 metres 400
0 yards 400
Ville Nouvelle

FÈS  169
Getting Around
Both Fès el-Bali and Fès el-Jedid can be explored only on
foot since the labyrinthine layout of these quarters is
unsuitable for motorized traffic. Parking is available near
Bab Boujeloud or Bab el-Ftouh, or on Place des Alaouites.
Buses (often very crowded) run between Ville Nouvelle and
both Fès el-Bali and Fès el-Jedid. It is best to take a petit taxi
(see p362). Petits taxis can be found near the post office, at
Bab Boujeloud and in the vicinity of the large hotels.
Colourful carpets spread out on a terrace in

Bab Bab Sidi
the medina
Guissa Bou Jida
ZENJIFOR
Fès
Wadi
BLIDA
S. EL
T PONT BEN
L I YI NE AT A R IN E
H C HE R A B EL MOUDOUN
E EC Bab
RU EL KEDDANE el Khoukka
RU
UKH A
Cherabliyine Musée HO
E
BK
Mosque du Bois BA
DE
A V.
SE
AT S FF
RUAEL I I D I Y R .
T A MB E R T
AH
UIK I
SO AF R. DES KH OU
R. EN S TEINTURIERS NE SS
EF
B PONT DE
G U E RN I Z SIDI EL AOUAD RU
AK
E
FAKHARI NE
BE
SI
T
DE
E L ADOUA
D
CA
I
BO
ID
U
A V.
GH
KH EB
AL
AM
EL
L A LA
KH RAS
AR
E L JE N A N
IY
D E
AT
Bus
M OKHFI A Station
ME
H AM
MO
EN
Bab
M ED B
el Hadid
SI
FA
EL
AH
AL
LL
BD
Bab
el Jedid
Sights at a Glance
RD
VA
Medersas
LE
Historic Buildings
U
O
B 1 Merinid Tombs 9 El-Attarine Medersa
6 Fondouk el-Nejjarine 0 El-Cherratine Medersa
8 Zaouia of Moulay Idriss II q Bou Inania Medersa
pp176–7
Streets, Squares and Historic
Quarters Museums
4 Rue Talaa Kebira 2 Musée des Armes
5 The Souks 7 Musée Dar el-Batha
w Tanners’ Quarter pp172–3
e Place el-Seffarine
Gates
t Andalusian Quarter
i Fès el-Jedid pp184–7 3 Bab Boujeloud
y Bab el-Ftouh
Mosques
r Andalusian Mosque
u Karaouiyine Mosque pp180–81

the Makina, the arsenal built

by Moulay Hassan I at the end
of the 19th century, although
it was enriched by donations
from various Alaouite sultans.
Some 1,000 pieces of
weaponry are exhibited in 16
rooms, in a chronological display
running from prehistory to the
first half of the 20th century.
Moroccan weapons are well
represented and demonstrate
the technical knowledge of
Moroccan craftsmen. There is
also an interesting collection of
weapons from all over the world.
3 Bab Boujeloud
Place du Pacha el-Baghdadi.
Enclosed within high walls, the

large Place Pacha el-Baghdadi
links the medina and Fès
el-Jedid. On one side of the
square stands Bab Boujeloud.
Built in 1913, this fine
monumental gate is the main
The Merinid tombs, overlooking the medina of Fès entrance into Fès el-Bali.
With the development of
1 Merinid Tombs 2 Musée des Armes heavy artillery, the fortified
North of the medina, on the hill of Borj Nord. Tel (0535) 64 75 66.
gates of Fès lost their effective-
the Merinid tombs. Open 9am–4:30pm Tue–Sun. & ness as defences and came to
be seen as decorative buildings,
Standing among olive trees, Borj Nord was built in 1582, on contributing to the city’s
cacti and blue agaves, the the orders of the prestige and helping to justify
16th-century ruins that Saadian sultan the levy of city taxes.
overlook Fès el-Bali are those Ahmed el-Mansour Bab Boujeloud, built
of a Merinid palace and necro- (1578–1603). From its in the Moorish style,
polis. Ancient chroniclers vantage point over consists of three
recorded that these tombs the city, the fortress Silver dagger, Musée perfectly symmetrical
elicited wonderment because both defended and des Armes horseshoe arches. A
of their magnificent marble controlled Fès el-Bali. rich decorative scheme
and the splendour of their In 1963 the collection of consisting of geometric patterns,
coloured epitaphs. Today, the weapons from the Musée Dar calligraphy, interlaced floral
tombs are very dilapidated, el-Batha (see pp172–3) was motifs and glazed tilework
and the area is popular with transferred here to create the of many colours, with blue
petty thieves, but it offers an Museum of Arms. Much of the predominating, graces the
impressive view of the city collection, comprising more façade. From this entranceway
and is well worth the climb. than 8,000 pieces, comes from the silhouette of the minaret
The stretch of wall of the Bou Inania Medersa
immediately beneath the can be glimpsed on the left.
hill is the oldest part of the
medina’s defences. Parts of
the curtain wall date from the 4 Rue Talaa Kebira
Almohad period (12th century),
Reached via Bab Boujeloud.
notably Borj Kaoukeb, near
which the lepers’ quarter This thoroughfare, whose name
was once located. means “Great Climb” and which is
The tombs overlook a tiered partly covered by a cane canopy,
cemetery which stretches as is lined with small shops along
far as Bab Guissa, an Almohad almost its entire length. It is
gateway dating from the The Musée des Armes, housed in a continued by the Ras Tiyalin and
13th century. 16th-century fortress Aïn Allou souks and by spice
FÈS  171
in existence in 1944. In the

16th century, Leo Africanus,
known today for his accounts
of his travels, worked there as
a clerk for two years.
The kissaria, near the Zaouia
of Moulay Idriss, marks the
exact centre of the souks. This
is a gridwork of covered streets
where shops selling luxury
goods are especially conspicuous.
Some of the fine silks and
brocades, high-quality kaftans
and jewellery on offer here
supply the international market.
Rue Talaa Kebira, the main thoroughfare in the medina of Fès
markets. The street passes 5 The Souks

the kissaria and ends at the
Karaouiyine Mosque (see pp180– The souks of Fès el-Bali
81). Running parallel to it at spread out beyond the Ech
its southern end is another Cherabliyine Mosque.
important street, Rue Talaa The location of each souk
Seghira (“Short Climb”), which reflects a hierarchy dictated by
joins up with Rue Talaa Kebira the value placed on the various
at Aïn Allou. These streets are goods on offer in each of them.
the two principal cultural and Makers and sellers are grouped
economic thoroughfares of Fès together according to the
el-Bali. The city’s most important products that they offer. Every
buildings are located here. type of craft has its own street,
Opposite the Bou Inania or part of a street, around the
Medersa (see pp176–7) stands Karaouiyine Mosque, which
Dar el-Magana (House of the has resulted in a logical but Fondouk el-Nejjarine, a UNESCO World
Clock), built by the ruler Abou relatively complex layout. While Heritage Site
Inan in 1357. It contains a water- the El-Attarine Souk sells
clock built by Fassi craftsmen spices, there is also a Slipper 6 Fondouk
during the Merinid period. Souk and a Henna Souk, which el-Nejjarine
Not far from here, level with is laid out in an attractive
a covered passage in the Blida shaded square planted with Place el-Nejjarine. Tel (0535) 74
Quarter, is the Zaouia el-Tijaniya, arbuses. A plaque records that 05 80. Musée du Bois:
containing the tomb of Ahmed the Sidi Frijthe maristan, which
el-Tijani, master of Tariqa was the largest mental asylum Not far from the Henna Souk,
el-Tijaniya (The Way), a doctrine in the Merinid empire, once the impressive Fondouk
that spread widely throughout stood on this square. Built by el-Nejjarine, with an elegant
the Maghreb and sub-Saharan Abou Yacoub Youssef (1286– fountain, is one of the most
Africa. Further on are three 1307), it also functioned as a renowned buildings in Fès. Built
musical instrument workshops. hospital for storks. It was still by the amine (provost) Adeyel
Makers of stringed instruments in the 18th century, this former
have almost completely disap- caravanserai provided food, rest
peared from Fès; the only and shelter to the traders in
remaining practitioner is a luxury goods arriving from the
craftsman in Rue Talaa Seghira, interior. Classed as a historic
opposite Dar Mnebhi, who still monument in 1916, it is now
makes ouds (lutes) by traditional one of UNESCO’s World Heritage
methods. Beyond is the skin- Sites. Its restoration formed part
dressers’ fondouk, which contains of the preservation programme
leather workshops. carried out on the whole
Across the Bou Rous bridge medina. The fondouk’s three
stands the Ech Cherabliyine floors house the privately run
Mosque (Mosque of the Musée du Bois (Museum of
Slipper-Makers). Built by Wooden Arts). The displays
the Merinid sultan Abou include carved doors from
el-Hassan, it is distinguished Skin-dressing workshops, unchanged the magnificent Bou Inania
by its elegant minaret. since the Middle Ages Medersa (see pp176–7).
7 Musée Dar el-Batha displayed in Case 11 are

examples of zarghmil, the
The palace of Dar el-Batha was begun between 1873 and famous “centipede” style of
1875 by Moulay el-Hassan, and was completed by Moulay decoration characteristic of Fès.
Abdel Aziz in 1897. The location of the palace was an area
of neglected gardens, which had been irrigated by a river. Leatherwork
The sultan, who wanted to make the palace a residence The exhibits in Room 3 include
worthy of being used for official receptions, added an a fragment of a 13th-century
imposing courtyard covered with coloured tiles and featuring candelabra from the Karaouiyine
a large fountain. He also laid out a large and very fine Mosque, alms measures made
Andalusian garden. Despite many later alterations, the in Fès in the 14th to 18th
centuries, some fine astrolabes
traditional Moorish features of this building have survived. and a number of instruments
for determining the times
in the 16th to 18th centuries; of day at which
Exploring the Collections prayer books by the Sufi prayers are to
of the Musée Dar scholar El-Jazouli; and be said, for
El-Batha important manuscripts indicating the
In 1914, the Orientalist written in the Andalusian direction of
Alfred Bel made the cursive style of Mecca and for
first bequest calligraphy, which tracking the
to the future was widely used lunar calendar. Alms measure
ethnographic in Morocco in There are also (18th century)
musem which, the 8th and 9th lamps, writing
by royal decree, centuries. Examples tables and a medicine bowl
became the of illuminated decorated with verses from
museum of local calligraphy with the Koran and formulae;
crafts (Musée geometric decorative various equipment for use
des Arts et des motifs, as well in the hammam and for
Traditions) in 1915. A soup tureen with blue as other exhibits, brewing and drinking tea;
Today, the and white decoration highlight the role and a fine 18th-century tray
permanent that Fès played embellished with a complex
exhibition, which fills in the development and geometric pattern. Each of
12 rooms, consists of more diffusion of learning. these pieces demonstrates
than 500 objects selected the consummate skill and
from the 5,000 that the exceptional creativity of
museum has acquired. Ceramics the craftsmen of Fès, who
They are shown in two large The original location of in making them fulfilled
sections. The ethnographic the potters’ souk, next to the the religious, scientific and
section, featuring the arts Karaouiyine Mosque, is proof of symbolic needs of their time.
and crafts of Fès and the rural the respect and repute in which
crafts of neighbouring areas, the makers of the famous Fès
fills the first eight rooms. The blue and white ware were held. Wood, Embroidery
archaeological section is laid As well as this pottery, Room 2 and Weaving
out in the four remaining contains dishes and jebbana The furniture in Room 4,
rooms. Particularly notable (traditional earthenware vessels) including chests and sets
is the display tracing the with polychrome decoration in of shelves, shows both the
development of architecture blue, green, yellow and brown range of woods used (cedar,
in Fès, from the Idrissid period over a white tin glaze, or with thuya, almond, walnut, ebony,
to that of the Alaouites. sboula (herringbone) or chebka citron and mahogany) and
(scale) motifs. Some of the a range of cabinet-making
dishes with green motifs skills. Shown here are carved
Books and Manuscripts
Room 1 contains some
extremely fine leather-bound
books dating from the 11th
century. Their embossed
and gold-painted decoration
is a tradition peculiar to Fès
that stayed alive until the
17th century. Also on display
are manuscript copies of the
Koran made on parchment The tranquil courtyard of the Musée Dar el-Batha
FÈS  173
and green silk. Women’s VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

costumes, headdresses and
accessories in embroidered Practical Information
silk decorated with trimmings Place du Batha. The museum
demonstrate the high degree is a few minutes’ walk from
of refinement in traditional Boujeloud. Tel (0535) 63 41 16.
Fassi dress. Open 8:30am–noon & 2:30–6pm
Wed–Mon. Closed public
holidays. 8 obligatory. &
Rural Crafts _ Concerts of Andalusian music
and Festival of Sacred Music
Detail of 19th-century embroidery Objects of everyday life from (May & Sep; phone for details).
from Fès various regions of Morocco are
exhibited in Room 6: pottery
and painted or leather-covered made by the women of the Rif,
furniture, and furniture with iron carpets from the Middle Atlas,
fittings, marquetry decoration and fine Berber jewellery, such
and mother-of-pearl and ivory as brooches, pectorals, necklaces,
inlay. There is also a fine 14th- finger rings and bracelets.
century Moorish chest, made All these show the skills and
to hold the most valuable inventiveness of Moroccan
pieces of a bride’s trousseau craftsmen and craftswomen.
as they were carried to her
new home.
The exhibits in Room 5 Doors
consist of examples of the A display of doors fills Room 7.
different types of Fassi Doors from ordinary houses
embroidery. These include and large palace doors carved
exquisite examples of terz and decorated with patterns
sqalli, lamé embroidery in of nails are shown with a
which gold thread and gold selection of door locks from
dust are used; al-aleuj houses in Fès.
embroidery, a technique very Minbar dating from 1350, from the Bou
similar to Persian stitch; and Inania Medersa
erz alghorza, counted-thread The Art of Zellij
embroidery, the most famous Room 9 is devoted to zellij
type of Fassi embroidery, tilework made in Fès from the Monumental
usually in red, blue, purple 14th to the 18th centuries and Woodcarving
among the finest of its kind. The displays in Rooms 10
One of the exhibits, a and 11 trace the evolution of
remarkable panel from the monumental woodcarving in
Bou Inania Medersa, perfectly Fès from the 9th century to
exemplifies this brilliant the present day. Among the
tradition of architectural most interesting pieces are a
decoration in Morocco. The lintel from the Karaouiyine
rich aesthetic vocabulary of Mosque (877) and the monum-
this art form brings to life ental door from the El-Attarine
plain surfaces with a lively Medersa (1325). The splendid
Double pitcher from the Rif (19th century) play of patterns and colours. lintel from the Andalusian
Mosque, made in 980, is a
masterpiece of religious art
Gallery Guide of the early years of Islam in
The collections are divided into two large sections. The Morocco. The museum’s
ethnographic section occupies eight rooms: Room 1 contains collection also includes the
exhibits relating to the art of the book; Room 2 contains minbar from the Andalusian
ceramics and paintings; Room 3 is devoted to leatherwork; Mosque, which is exhibited
Rooms 4 and 5 to marquetry, embroidery and weaving; alternately with that from the
Room 6 to carpets, Berber jewellery and objects from everyday Bou Inania Medersa (1350).
life; Room 7 to wooden doors, and Room 8 to genealogy.
The archaeological section begins in Room 9 with zellij and
ceramics, Rooms 10 and 11 contain displays of wood used in Funerary Architecture
architecture; Room 12 is devoted to archaeology relating to Islam Various pieces of Muslim funerary
and funerary stelae. There is also a workshop which offers visitors architecture and a selection of
the chance to watch the woodcarvers at work. tombstones from Volubilis end
the museum’s displays.
Arabic Calligraphy
Islam traditionally forbids all figurative representation, and since the 8th century
this prohibition has encouraged the use of calligraphy in Arabic civilization. Decorative
writing became an art form that was used not only for manuscripts but also to decorate
buildings. Islamic calligraphy is closely connected to the revelation of the Koran: the
word of God is to be transcribed in a beautiful script far finer than secular writing. Writing
out not only the Koran, but also the 99 names of Allah is considered to be a very pious
undertaking. The importance of this art form in Islamic civilization is shown by the
carved, painted or tiled friezes that decorate the walls and domes of mosques and
medersas, as well as by the thousands of scientific, literary and religious calligraphic
manuscripts preserved in public and private libraries. Maghrebi script, used in the Maghreb,
in Andalusia and in the Sudan, is derived from Kufic script, which is named after the
town of Kufa, in Iraq, where this style of writing originated.
Manuscripts and Friezes

Quotations from the Koran are
omnipresent in manuscripts
and calligraphic friezes.
Calligraphy appears in all
dimensions and on a great
variety of surfaces. Maghrebi
script is characterized by
rounded letters combined This detail from an illuminated manuscript in
with slender descenders Maghrebi script, produced in Rabat in the 8th
and ascenders. century, features plant motifs.
Cursive script, like this

example from the Bou Inania
Medersa, may appear in the
form of carved zellij work.
Calligraphic friezes, often with a
religious content, were made
both for public buildings and
private houses.
Decorative details,
like this one from
This illuminated an anonymous
manuscript of a hadih, manuscript
recording the words and of a musical
deeds of the Prophet score, shows that
Mohammed, is in calligraphy was
Maghrebi script. With sometimes more
gold and bright colours, ornamental than
illumination enriches purely functional.
both religious and secular Calligraphy on marble,
manuscripts. The finest Hassan II Mosque.
illuminated manuscripts
are preserved in the
Royal Library in Rabat.
Inkwells
Used for calligraphy and
for illumination, inkwells
were made in the shape
of a koubba, the shrine The compartments in these mejma inkwells were designed to hold
of a Muslim saint. the inks of different colours that were used for illumination.
FÈS  175
courtyard paved with zellij

tilework in a two-colour pattern
of brown and white, and
enclosing an ablutions fountain.
A cladding of polychrome
tiles covers the base of the
courtyard’s four interior walls
and its columns. A door with
fine decoration and exquisite
fittings leads from the courtyard
to the prayer hall, which contains
a mihrab. The prayer hall has a
highly decorated ceiling, walls
featuring luxuriant stuccowork
and zellij work, and lintels
with epigraphic decoration.
The students’ rooms, looking
Fountain for ablutions at the Zaouia of Moulay Idriss II onto the courtyard from the
upper floor, have windows
8 Zaouia of faithful is made up of pilgrims fronted by turned wooden
Moulay Idriss II and beggars, as well as nougat, railings. The terrace offers a
candle and incense sellers view of the rooftops of Fès
Closed to non-Muslims. Glimpses whose goods are used as el-Bali and the courtyard of
possible through the open doors. tomb offerings. the Karaouiyine Mosque.
The Zaouia of Moulay Idriss II,

containing the tomb of the 0 El-Cherratine
second Idrissid ruler (considered
to be the founder of Fès) is the
Medersa
most venerated shrine in Rue El-Cherratine. &
Morocco. Built in the centre of
the city at the beginning of the Located southeast of the
18th century, during the reign Karaouiyine Mosque, in Rue
of Moulay Ismaïl, the building el-Cherratine (Street of the
was restored in the mid-19th Ropemakers), this medersa
century. The pyramidal dome was built by Moulay Rachid, the
that covers the saint’s tomb and first Alaouite sultan, in 1670.
its polychrome minaret give it a Although it is structurally similar
majestic silhouette. The courtyard to the Merinid medersas, it is less
of the mosque contains a fountain Decorative column and tilework in the elaborately decorated. Adding
which consists of a white marble El-Attarine Medersa to the building’s austerity are the
basin on a shaft, richly decorated high, narrow residential units
with zellij tilework. 9 El-Attarine known as douiras, which stand
The horm, the perimeter Medersa in three corners of the courtyard.
wall around the zaouia, is also The tiny cells inside were for
holy. The narrow streets leading Opposite the Karaouiyine Mosque. the use of students.
to the shrine are barred at mid- Tel (0535) 62 34 60. Open 9am–6pm Entry into the medersa is
daily. Closed Fri. &
height by a wooden beam through beautiful double doors
that is supposed to prevent the cased in engraved bronze. The
passage of beasts of burden. The El-Attarine Medersa doors open onto a passageway
The horm also made the shrine (Medersa of the Spice Sellers) with a fine carved and painted
an inviolable place, so that in stands in the neighbourhood wooden ceiling, which in turn
the past outlaws would find of the Karaouiyine Mosque and leads to the Moorish courtyard.
sanctuary here. the El-Attarine Souk. With the
At the end of each summer, Bou Inania Medersa (see pp176–
during a moussem lasting two to 7), it is considered to be one
three days, this place of pilgrimage of the wonders of Moorish
attracts not only the inhabitants architecture. It was built between
of Fès but also people from the 1323 and 1325 by the Merinid
surrounding countryside and sultan Abou Saïd Othman, and
mountain-dwellers from distant has all the elements specific
tribes. They all come to receive a to a medieval Muslim school.
blessing and baraka (“beneficient The highly decorated The El-Cherratine Souk, where ropemakers
force”). The motley crowd of the entrance leads through to a sell their wares
q Bou Inania Medersa

This is the largest and most sumptuously decorated medersa
ever built by the Merinids. Constructed between 1350 and
1355 by the sultan Abou Inan, it is the only medersa in Morocco
that has a minbar (pulpit) and a minaret. A mosque, cathedral,
students’ residence and school combined, its functions have
determined its architectural complexity. The one-storey building,
on a rectangular plan, is arranged around a square Moorish
courtyard paved with marble and onyx, and surrounded on
three sides by a cloister. It is one of the few Islamic religious
buildings that is open to non-Muslims.
Stained-glass Windows
Capitals The windows of the prayer
The carved motifs hall feature old stained-
on the capitals in glass panels.
the medersa show
Moorish influence.
. Prayer Hall
The mihrab (above)
is surmounted
by stained-glass
windows. The
minbar (1350) is
now in the Musée
Dar el-Batha
(see pp172–3).
Zellij Tilework
In the medersa, the three
decorative bands always
appear in the same order:
geometric tilework below,
cursive script carved into
tiles in the centre, and
stuccowork above.
FÈS  177
The Moroccan Medersa
The medersa was both a cultural and a religious Practical Information
establishment. It was primarily a residential Rue Talaa Kebira.
Open 9am–6pm daily except
college, designed for local students from the
during prayer times. &
town or city and especially for those from the
immediate or more distant rural areas, but also
Student at a medersa for anyone who came in search of learning. It was
an extension of the great university-mosque,
an institution once restricted to the study of religion, law, science
and even the arts. It was finally a place of prayer and reflection. The
medersas of Fès, home to the greatest scholars in the country, were
the most highly esteemed in Morocco.
Windows
The ornate windows
of the students’ rooms
on the upper floor are
framed by stuccowork
surmounted
by muqarnas
(stalactites).
. Façade
Richly decorated with
zellij tilework, stuccowork
and sculpted wood,
the façade runs the
gamut of the Moorish
decorative repertoire.
Main entrance
KEY
1 Pitched roofs over the mosque

2 The minaret, one of the finest
in Fès, is decorated with a frieze
featuring merlons. The lantern is
topped by a similar frieze.
Wooden Screen 3 Shops
The magnificent carved 4 Begger’s Gate
wooden screen of the main
entrance is framed by sturdy 5 Student’s Cell
pillars. The adjoining door, of 6 Courtyard paved with marble
much plainer design, was known and onyx
as Beggars’ Gate.
The Tanneries of Fès

Often located near watercourses, and usually some distance from residential quarters
because of the unpleasant odours that they produced, tanneries made a substantial
contribution to a city’s economy. Tanning is a craft with traditions that go back
thousands of years. The process turns animal hides into soft, rot-proof leather. Once
tanned, the hides are passed on to leatherworkers.
Stages in the Tanning Process

In Fès, the tanneries (chouaras) are located
near Wadi Fès. The hides of sheep, goats,
cows and camels undergo several processes –
including the removal of hair and flesh, followed
by soaking in vats, then by drying and rinsing –
before they are ready to be dyed and handed
over to leatherworkers.
Vats, some of which have been in use for

centuries, are used for soaking skins after the
hair and flesh have been removed. The tanning
solution that turns them into leather is obtained
from the bark of pomegranate or mimosa.
The dried hides are rinsed in generous

quantities of water. They are then softened
by being steeped in baths of fatty solutions.
The tanned hides are hung out to dry on the

terraces of the medina, as here, or in other parts
of Fès, such as the Bab el-Guissa cemetery. The
roofs of houses and the hillsides around the city
may also be used as drying areas.
Natural pigments, obtained from certain plants

and minerals, are still used by Moroccan craftsmen
to colour the hides. However, chemical dyes are
also used today.
Dyed leather is used to make many types

of useful and decorative objects, such as
embroidered bags, babouches, pouffes and
clothing. These goods are offered for sale in
the numerous souks in the medina of Fès.
FÈS  179
w Tanners’ Quarter Library, was built in 1280 and is t Andalusian

North of Place el-Seffarine.
the oldest medersa in Morocco Quarter
that is still in use. The El-
The Chouara, or Tanners’ Quarter, Mesbahiya Medersa, also north The Andalusian Quarter
has been located near Wadi Fès of the square, was built by the did not undergo the same
since the Middle Ages. Its dyeing Merinid sultan Abou el Hassan development as the Karaouiyine
vats, in the midst of houses in the in 1346. Further on, on the right, Quarter, located on the
Blida quarter, are best seen from is the 16th-century Tetouani opposite bank of Wadi Fès
neighbouring terraces. Although Fondouk, which accommodated and better provided with
pervaded by an unpleasantly traders and students from Tetouan. water. Nevertheless, this part
strong smell, this is the most Place el-Seffarine leads to Rue of the city, which is quieter
lively and picturesque of all des Teinturiers (Dyers’ Street), and more residential, has
the souks in Fès. which runs parallel to the wadi monuments that are worth
and is where skeins are hung a visit.
out to dry. The El-Sahrij Medersa, built
e Place el-Seffarine in 1321 takes its name from the
Karaouiyine Library large water basin in one of the
Fès is the most important Place el-Seffarine. Tel (0535) 62 34 60. courtyards. This is considered
centre for the production Open 9am–6pm Mon–Thu, 9am–1pm to be the third-finest medersa
of brass and silverware in Fri (times may vary). in Fès after the Bou Inania and
Morocco. The workshops of the El-Attarine medersas. The
brass-workers and coppersmiths Mausoleum of Sidi Bou Ghaleb,
lining Place el-Seffarine have in the street of that name, is that
been here for centuries. The of a holy man from Andalusia
pretty fountain with fleur-de-lis who lived and taught in Fès in
decoration is worth a look. It the 12th century.
was probably built by French
convicts in the 16th century. El-Sahrij Medersa
North of the square is the Rue Sidi Bou Ghaled. Tel (0535) 62 34
14th-century Karaouiyine 60 (information). Closed for
Library, which was set up restoration. &
on the orders of the sultan
Abou Inan. It was used by
the greatest Moorish men y Bab el-Ftouh
of learning, including the Southeast of the medina.
philosopher and doctor Ibn
Rushd, known as Averroës The north entrance of the Andalusian Literally meaning “Gate of
(see p233), the philosopher Mosque the Aperture”, the huge Bab
Ibn Tufayl, the historian Ibn el-Ftouh is also known as the
Khaldoun and the 6th-century r Andalusian Gate of Victory. It leads through
traveller Leo Africanus. The Mosque to the Andalusian Quarter.
manuscripts that once formed The gate was built in the 10th
part of the library’s collection Accessible via Rue el-Nekhaline or century by a Zenet emir, and
Bab el-Ftouh and Rue Sidi Bou Ghaleb.
have been transferred to the was altered in the 18th century,
Royal Library in Rabat. during the reign of the Alaouite
The El-Seffarine Medersa, According to legend, this ruler Sidi Mohammed ben
opposite the Karaouiyine mosque was established by Abdallah. Outside the ramparts,
a religious woman, Mariam on a hill opposite the city, is the
el-Fihri, sister of the founder of Bab el-Ftouh cemetery, where
the Karaouiyine Mosque, and some of the most illustrious
by the Andalusians who lived inhabitants of Fès are buried.
in the Karaouiyine Quarter. Its
present appearance dates from
the reign of the Almohad ruler
Mohammed el-Nasser (13th
century). The Merinids added a
fountain in 1306 and funded the
establishment of a library here
in 1416. Non-Muslims can only
admire the building from the
exterior; notable are the great
north entrance, with a carved
Brass-worker making trays in Place cedar awning, and the domed Bab el-Ftouh cemetery, resting place of some
el-Seffarine Zenet minaret. renowned teachers
u Karaouiyine Mosque
Established in 859, the Karaouiyine Mosque is one of the
oldest and most illustrious mosques in the western Muslim
world. The first university to be established in Morocco, it was
frequented by such learned men as Ibn Khaldoun (see p185),
Ibn el-Khatib, Averroës (see p233) and even Pope Sylvester II
(909–1003). Named after the quarter in which it was built –
that of refugees from Kairouan, in Tunisia – it was founded
by Fatima bint Mohammed el-Fihri, a religious woman from
Kairouan, who donated her worldly riches for its construction. Pitched Roof
It is still considered to be one of the main spiritual and The roof of the mosque is covered
in emerald- green tiles.
intellectual centres of Islam and remains the seat of the
Muslim university of Fès.
. The Prayer Hall

The hall is divided into 16 aisles by
270 columns, parallel to the qibla wall
(indicating the direction of Mecca). It
is lit by a magnificent 12th-century
Almohad candelabra.
KEY
1 Women’s Mosque.
2 This door is one of 14 entrances
to the mosque.
3 The prayer hall can hold
. The Courtyard The courtyard, 20,000 people.
or sahn, is paved with zellij tilework 4The minaret, in an early
consisting of 50,000 pieces that were Almoravid style, is very similar in
made especially for the floor of shape to a lookout tower.
the mosque.
FÈS  181
Rue Bou Touil (which continues
from Rue Talaa Kebira) runs
parallel to the Karaouiyine
Mosque. Closed to non-Muslims.
Glimpses can sometimes be had
through an open door, but
be respectful.
The Role of the

Ablutions Basin Mosque
This basin, in the centre of the courtyard, is carved from a Each quarter of Fès has one
single block of marble. It rests on a marble fountain to or more mosques and other
which the faithful come to carry out their ablutions, places of worship. Friday
an essential preparation for prayer.
prayers take place in both large
and small mosques. Msids, small
oratories without a minaret,
are designed for prayer and for
teaching the Koran. Zaouias
are sanctuaries where religious
brotherhoods gather. The
mosque, which stands both
as a civic and a social symbol,
is simultaneously a place of
worship, a university, a tribunal,
an inviolable place of asylum
and a friendly meeting place.
The call to prayer is given by
the muezzin five times a day.
Saadian pavilion
Mashrabiyya Dome Over the Entrance

The main doorway has a The main entrance into the courtyard
mashrabiyya screen to of the mosque faces Rue Bou Touil. The
protect worshippers from monumental doorway is surmounted by
prying eyes. a small striated dome.
i Fès el-Jedid
Fès el-Jedid, meaning New Fès or White Fès, was built in
1276 by Merinid princes as a stronghold against the
permanent threat of the rebellious Fassis, and as a vantage
point from which to survey their activities in the old town.
Surrounded by ramparts, Fès el-Jedid was primarily a kasbah,
and its political and military role predominated over the civic
functions of a true Islamic town. It was the administrative
centre of Morocco up to 1912.
Fès el-Jedid consists of several distinct units. In the west is
the royal palace, and other buildings associated with it, and
the Moulay Abdallah Quarter. In the south is the mellah, or
Jewish quarter, a maze of dark, narrow streets. In the east are
the Muslim quarters. Brass doors into the Dar el-Makhzen engraved
with a geometric pattern
gateways linked by a central

thoroughfare with a lattice-
work of narrow streets leading
off it. Bab Dekaken, the east
gate, leads to the former
méchouar (parade ground)
and Bab Boujat, the west gate,
pierces the city’s walls. Nearby,
in the main street, stands
the Grand Mosque, a Merinid
building dating from the
13th century that houses the
necropolis of the sultan Abou
Inan. Also on this street, in
the direction of Bab Boujat,
Dar el-Makhzen, the royal palace in Fès stands the Mosque of Moulay
Abdallah, which was built
P Dar el-Makhzen large patios, as well as official in the mid-18th century.
Closed to the public. buildings, notably the Dar
This palatial complex in el-Bahia, where Arab summit P Grande Rue de
the centre of Fès el-Jedid is meetings are held; the Dar Fès el-Jedid and the
surrounded by high walls and Ayad el-Kebira, built in the 18th Muslim Quarters
covers more than 80 ha (195 century by Sidi Mohammed Accessible via Bab el-Semarine to the
acres). It was the main residence ben Abdallah; administrative south and Bab Dekaken to the north.
of the sultan, together with and military buildings; and The Muslim quarters – Lalla
his guard and his retinue of gardens, including the enclosed Btatha, Lalla Ghriba, Zebbala,
servants. It was also where Lalla Mina Gardens. Sidi Bounafaa, Boutouil and
dignitaries of the makhzen The complex also includes a Blaghma – are the principal
(central government) came to mosque and a medersa, which components of the urban
carry out their duties. Part of was built in 1320 by the Merinid agglomeration that Fassis
the palace is still used by the prince Abou Saïd know as Fès el-Jedid. The
king of Morocco when he Othman. There is also quarters are enclosed
comes to stay in Fès. a menagerie. by the walls of Dar
The main entrance to the el-Makhzen to the
complex, on the huge Place P Moulay Abdallah west, and by a
des Alaouites, is particularly Quarter double line of
imposing. Its magnificent Accessible via Bab Boujat walls to the east.
Moorish gateway, which is or Bab Dekaken. Two gateways
permanently closed, is richly Completely closed lead into the
ornamented. The exquisitely off on its western Muslim quarters;
engraved bronze doors are side by the palace that on the
fitted with fine bronze knockers. walls and the northern side is
The walls enclose a disparate ramparts of Fès Bab Dekaken,
ensemble of buildings: palaces el-Jedid, this A tower set in the walls a simple
arranged around courtyards or quarter has two of the méchouar opening in
The famous green rooftops of the Karaouiyine Mosque
FÈS  185
the fortifications that once led

Ibn Khaldoun to the former méchouar. On the
Abderrahman Ibn Khaldoun southern side is the monumental
was born in Tunis in 1332 into Bab el-Semarine (Gate of the
a family of great scholars. Farriers). This is a monumental
In about 1350 he came vaulted gateway, beneath
to Fès, which at the time which a souk for all sorts of
was the leading intellectual food takes place; the stalls
centre in the Maghreb, are laid out in the old Merinid
and became diplomatic grain stores.
secretary to the sultan
The two gates are connected
Abou Inan.
by Grande Rue de Fès el-Jedid,
He taught in Cairo, where he
died in 1406. His extensive the main north–south artery
writings include Discourse through the city. The street, Detail of Bab Segma, north of the old
on Universal History. He is covered by a cane canopy at méchouar
considered its northern extremity, is lined
to be the with an almost continuous Mosque (Mosque of the Lady
founder of succession of shops. This Flower), which was built by the
sociology, congested thoroughfare is the Merinid sultan Abou Inan in
and is economic centre of the royal 1357. On the eastern side are
without city. At intervals it is flanked by the humble quarters inhabited
doubt quiet residential quarters with by the families of old warrior
one of the a maze-like layout like that tribes. There are two important
greatest of all Muslim towns. mosques here: Jama el-Hamra
Modern-day portrait historians On the western side of the (Red Mosque) with a 14th-
of Ibn Khaldoun of all time. street, a small quarter huddles century minaret, and Jama
around the Lalla el-Azhar el-Beïda (White Mosque).
Fès El-Jedid City Centre

1 Dar el-Makhzen
Kasbah
2 Moulay Abdallah Quarter Cherarda
TOUR DE FÈS
R O UT E D U
3 Grande Rue de Fès el-Jedid

and Muslim Quarters
Bab
4 Mellah Segma
5 Grande Rue des Mérinides Vieux Fès el-Bali

Méchouar
and Rue Boukhessissat Makina N ÇA
IS
FRA
6 Danan Synagogue i Fès Bab DE
S
Wa d el-Seba UE Jardins
EN
7 Grand Méchouar AV de Bou Jeloud
Bab
8 Vieux Méchouar Dekaken
9 Petit Méchouar Grand
Petit Méchouar
0 Kasbah Cherarda Mosque
GR
Grand MOULAY ABDALLAH

AN
Méchouar
QUARTER
DE R
Bab MUSLIM
QUARTERS
UE
Boujat Mosque Moulay

Abdallah
DE F
ÈS
EL-JE
Dar el-
DID
Makhzen
Bab el-
Semarine
Bab Jiaf
T
SISSA
Lalla Mina ES
Gardens KH
U ES
BO ID
E IN
RU ÉR
M
200 ES
0 metres PLACE E
D MELLAH
DES RU
ALAOUITES E
0 yards 200 N
D
RA Danan
G
Ville Nouvelle Synagogue
For keys to symbols see back flap For hotels and restaurants see pp309–10 and pp325–6
cemetery, the quarter spiritual centre of the mellah.

flourished, providing the Rue des Mérinides cuts
Jewish community with through the jewellery souk,
strong social cohesion and where Jewish goldsmiths
unrivalled opportunities for could once be seen at work.
social advancement. Like the Rue Boukhessissat separates
Muslims elsewhere, most of the mellah from the Dar
the Jews in the district were el-Makhzen. With some luxury
grouped according to their residences, this was once the
craft speciality. Thus Leo aristocratic area. The design
Africanus mentioned metal- of the houses here is the most
working, recording that only unified and harmonious in
the Jews worked with gold the mellah. The rows of houses
and silver. Today, the Jews open onto the street, each
Richly ornamented door to a house of Fès have left to settle in house having a workshop on
in the mellah Casablanca or have emigrated the ground floor. The upper
abroad, to Israel in particular. storeys are fronted by the
P Mellah Exploring the mellah generously proportioned, finely
Accessible via Place des Alaouites or reveals a striking contrast carved wooden balconies that
Bab el-Mellah. with the Muslim quarters. In are characteristic of the Jewish
Bab el-Semarine, then Bab architectural terms it is another architecture of Fès.
el-Mellah leads into the mellah, world, the buildings being
the Jewish quarter of Fès. The higher, narrower and more
name mellah probably comes closely spaced. The present
from the Arabic word for boundaries of the Jewish
“salt”, the terrain on which quarter were established only
the quarter grew. at the end of the 18th century,
This quarter, thought to during the time of the Alaouite
be the first Jewish enclave sultan Moulay Yazid, and the
to be established in Morocco, space available was small. As
was originally located in the a result, the inhabitants were
northern part of Fès el-Bali, in forced to build two-storey
the El-Yahoudi Quarter next to houses around tiny courtyards,
the Karaouiyine district. and space to move around in
In the early 13th century the was very restricted.
Merinid rulers moved it near
the palace, to the site of a P Rue des Mérinides and
former kasbah that was once Rue Boukhessissat
occupied by the sultan’s Syrian Accessible via Bab el-Semarine or
archers. The rulers of Fès had Place des Alaouites. Jewellery Souk:
undertaken to protect the Open from 9am Sat–Thu.
Jewish community, in return A central rectilinear axis, lined
for an annual levy collected by with various workshops and The Danan Synagogue, nestling between
the state treasury. The Jewish a kissaria, divides the mellah houses in the mellah
quarter’s new location afforded into two. All the commercial
the inhabitants greater security. activity in the quarter takes u Danan Synagogue
With its souks, workshops, place in this street, which Rue Der el-Feran Teati. Open 9am–
schools, synagogues and a was once the economic and 5pm daily. No entrance fee but a small
contribution is requested. Jewish
Cemetery: Closed Sat.
The 17th-century synagogue,
the property of a family of rabbis
from Andalusia, looks as if it has
been squeezed in between the
houses in the mellah. The interior
is divided into four aisles. A trap
door in the aisle on the far right
opens onto a stairway that leads
down to a mikve – a bath for
ritual purification where the
faithful were cleansed of their
sins. Above this fourth aisle is
the azara, the women’s gallery,
Tombs in the Jewish cemetery which offers an overall view of
FÈS  187
used as a concert hall and

conference venue.
P Kasbah Cherarda
North of the town, accessible
via Bab Segma.
Once known as the Kasbah
el-Khmis (Thursday Fort), after
the El-Khmis Souk which took
place along the northern and
eastern walls, this kasbah was
built by Moulay Rachid in the
The Vieux Méchouar, accessible via Bab el-Seba 17th century. Its present name
is derived from a former kasbah
the synagogue. It is worth Merinid gate, and Bab el-Seba. built nearby by a Cherarda caid
going out onto the terrace for a It is here that the population (chief ) to defend his tribe’s grain
sweeping view of the mellah, gathered at sunset to watch stores. With Bab Segma and Bab
and of the white tombs of the dancers, musicians and storytellers. Dekaken, the kasbah formed a
Jewish cemetery below. The Petit Méchouar, the smallest system of fortifications that
of the three, links the Méchouar controlled the road to Meknès
P The Méchouars de Bab Dekaken and Dar el- and Tangier, and protected Fès
Méchouars are wide, walled Makhzen. It can be reached el-Jedid and the intersection
parade grounds used on through Bab el-Seba (Gate of with Fès el-Bali.
ceremonial military occasions. the Lion), which once defended Enclosed within crenellated
Processions and ceremonies, the entrance to the palace. walls set with sturdy square
such as acts of allegiance and On Avenue des Français, just towers, the kasbah has two
the acknowledgment of the south of Bab el-Seba, a narrow monumental gateways,
royal right to rule, are also street on the right, reachable one on the western and the
performed here. There are through an opening in the wall, other on the eastern side.
three such esplanades in Fès. leads, after about 150 m (165 The kasbah now contains a
The Grand Méchouar, in the yards), to a large noria (water- hospital and an annexe of the
northwest, also known as wheel) built in 1287 by the Karaouiyine university. Beneath
the Méchouar de Bab Boujat, Andalusians. The Makina was the walls on the southern and
is an extensive parade ground. an arsenal, established by western sides, in an area where
The Méchouar de Bab Dekaken Moulay el-Hassan in 1855 with Almoravid and Almohad grain
(Gate of the Benches), or Vieux the help of Italian officers. It stores once stood, are the
Méchouar, in the northeast, is a was built on the west side of tombs of the Bab el-Mahrouk
rectangular esplanade with the the Méchouar de Bab Dekaken. cemetery. Among them the
high ramparts of the Makina on Having fallen into disuse, the small Mausoleum of Sidi
one side. It links Bab Segma, the Makina was restored. It is now Boubker el-Arabi can be seen.
Walls of the Kasbah Cherarda, built by Moulay Rachid in the 17th century
MEKNÈS & VOLUBILIS

Located between the fertile plain of the Rarb and the Middle Atlas, Meknès
and Volubilis lie at the heart of an agricultural area that has been Morocco’s
grain store since ancient times. The historical importance of the two cities
can be clearly seen in the ruins of Volubilis, capital of Mauretania
Tingitana and the most important archaeological site in Morocco,
as well as in the grandeur of the Moorish buildings in Meknès.
From the time of its foundation in the 10th century to the
arrival of the Alaouites in the 17th century, Meknès was just a
small town overshadowed by Fès, its neighbour and rival. It
was not until the reign of Moulay Ismaïl (see pp58–9), which
began in 1672, that Meknès first rose to the rank of imperial city. With tireless energy, the
sultan built gates, ramparts, mosques and palaces. This ambitious building programme
continued throughout his reign and involved robbing the ruins of Volubilis (see pp206–9)
and the Palais el-Badi in Marrakech (see p239). After 50 years, work was still not
completed. Although the sultan’s impatience was often a hindrance, he reinvigorated
palace architecture. Today, Meknès is one of the largest cities in Morocco, with a population
approaching a million. It is a dynamic economic centre, renowned for its olives, wine and
mint tea. The imperial city stands alongside the new town, on the banks of Wadi Boufekrane.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Towns Key
Natural Site
1– r Meknès pp190–99 y Zerhoun Massif Motorway
t Moulay Idriss Major road
u Sidi Kacem
Minor road
i Khemisset
o Volubilis pp206–209 Railway
Sidi Slimane
o
u
b
Oued Se
R4
N4
13
N13
Sidi Kacem
R409
Dar bel-Amri P4220 N4 R5

00
3
N13
Nzala des Beni Ammar

Volubilis Moulay
R705
Yakoub
El-Kansera
R41
Aïn el- Zerhoun N4

Jemaa Massif
3
Moulay
Idriss
Aïn el-Kerma
9
R40
3
N1
Barrage d’El N6
Kansera Ras el-Ma
N6 MEKNÈS
A2
1
N6
R70
Khemisset
16
R7
N1
R4
14
0
A2 R7
2
Boufakrane
0 km 10 R40
2
0 miles 10 2
El-Hajeb
R712
R40
Ancient ruins in Volubilis

Exploring Meknès
Three well-defined quarters – the
medina, the imperial city and Ville
Nouvelle (the New Town) – make Bab
up the city of Meknès. The medina el Berdaïne
BO
UL
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is a densely packed quarter. The AR
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kasbah, or imperial city, contains RC
UL
Bab AI
the finest of the lavish buildings Tizimi RE
constructed by Moulay Ismaïl. A
BO
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Ville Nouvelle is located on the
HA
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east bank of Wadi Boufekrane.
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Bab el
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IMPERIAL
CITY
Key
Major sight
Sight
A Moroccan in Place el-Hedime, “Square Medina
of Ruins” Ramparts

MEKNÈS & VOLUBILIS  191
* 999,000. n Place
Administrative (0535) 52 55 38.
Transport
£@
Gare el Amir
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The medieval medina in Meknès
Sights at a Glance
MECHOUAR
Historic Sites and Quarters
Bab el Nouara 2 Souks and Kissaria

0 metres 400 w Bassin de l’Aguedal
0 yards 400 r Haras de Meknès
Buildings and Monuments

1 Ramparts
3 Grand Mosque
4 Bou Inania Medersa
6 Bab Mansour el-Aleuj and
Place el-Hedime
7 Dar el-Kebira Quarter
8 Lalla Aouda Mosque
Getting Around 9 Koubba el-Khayatine and
Place el-Hedime is a good starting point Habs Qara
for exploring the medina and the imperial 0 Mausoleum of Moulay Ismaïl
city. Parking is available not far from this pp198–9
square. From here, it is an easy walk to the q Dar el-Makhzen
area around Bab Mansour and to the e Dar el-Ma and Heri es-Souani
Mausoleum of Moulay Ismaïl. To see the
rest of the imperial city, particularly Dar Museum
el-Ma, a car is needed. 5 Musée Dar Jamaï pp194–5

Bab Berrima leads through

to Souk En-Nejjarine, the
Carpenters’ Souk, which is
next to that of the brass and
coppersmiths, and to the
Cobblers’ Souk (sebbat).
The En-Nejjarine Mosque,
built by the Almohads in the
12th century, was restored by
Mohammed ben Abdallah in
about 1756, when it was given
a new minaret. Set back from
the En-Nejjarine Souk, in the
Ed-Dlala Kissaria, is the location
of a Berber souk. Every day from
Bab el-Berdaïne, one of the gates into the medina of Meknès 3pm to 4pm, the mountain-
dwellers of the Middle Atlas
1 Ramparts heart of the medina. Rue des come to sell carpets and
Encircling the medina, Meknès. Souks runs from Bab Berrima, in blankets here at auction.
the west, also to the heart of the
Protected by three stretches medina. Several smaller streets
of wall that together amount radiate from this centre, which is
to about 40 km (25 miles), the marked by the Grand Mosque
medina has the appearance of a and the Bou Inania Medersa.
sturdy fortress set with elegant
gates. Bab el-Berdaïne (Gate
of the Pack-Saddle-Makers), 2 Souks and
on the northern side, was built Kissaria
by Moulay Ismaïl. It is flanked Rue des Souks, Meknès. Open daily.
by protruding square towers
crowned by merlons, and A network of small covered or
stylized flowers in zellij tilework open streets lined with shops
decorate its exterior façade. and workshops, the souks are
West of the gate, the walled a fascinating encapsulation
cemetery contains one of of the 17th- and 18th-century
the most highly venerated Moroccan urban environment.
mausoleums in Morocco – that Rue des Souks, near Bab
of Sidi Mohammed ben Aïssa, Berrima, is filled with hardware Ablutions fountain in the Grand Mosque
founder of the brotherhood merchants (akarir), corn in Meknès
of the Aïssaoua (see p202). chandlers (bezzazine), and
On the southern side of the fabric sellers (serrayriya), while 3 Grand Mosque
cemetery stands Bab el-Siba metalsmiths (haddadin) are Rue des Souk es Sebbat, Meknès.
(Gate of Anarchy) and Bab to be found in the old Rue Open daily. Closed to non-Muslims.
el-Jedid (New Gate, although des Armuriers.
in fact it is one of the oldest in The Grand Mosque, which stands
Meknès). Further south is Bab near the souks and the Bou
Berrima, which leads into the Inania Medersa, was established
medina’s principal souks. To the in the 12th century during the
west stands Bab el-Khemis reign of the Almoravids. It was
(Thursday Gate), which once remodelled in the 14th century.
led into the mellah, now non- The main façade is pierced by
existent. The remarkable an imposing doorway with a
decoration of the gate’s façade carved awning. The beautiful
is on a par with that of Bab green-glazed terracotta tiles
el-Berdaïne. of the roof and of the 18th-
The layout of the medina, a century minaret are particularly
medieval labyrinth, is identical striking, the bright sunlight
to that of the other imperial giving them an almost
cities. There are a few main translucent appearance.
thoroughfares. The Palais el-Mansour, a
Rue Karmouni, which runs sumptuous 19th-century
through the quarter from north residence in Rue Karmouni, has
to south links Bab el-Berdaïne Minaret of the En-Nejjarine Mosque, the been converted into a carpet
with the spiritual and economic Mosque of the Carpenters and souvenir bazaar.
4 Bou Inania
Medersa
Rue des Souks es Sebbat, Meknès.
Open 8am–noon, 3–6pm daily. &
This Koranic school opposite
the Grand Mosque was
established by the Merinid
sultans in the 14th century.
The building is divided into
two unequal parts with a long
corridor between them. On
the eastern side is the medersa
proper, while on the western
side is an annexe for ablutions
(now no longer in use). The
main entrance is crowned by a
flat-sided dome and faced with
horseshoe arches with delicate
stuccowork decoration. Place el-Hedime, once the grand entrance to the imperial city of Meknès
A corridor leads to a beautiful
courtyard in the centre of which to Place Lalla Aouda and the green mosaics and tiles. The
is a pool. While three sides of Dar el-Kebira Quarter (see p196). cornerpieces are filled with
the courtyard are lined with a Of monumental proportions sgraffito floral decoration
gallery, the fourth opens onto and distinguished for its incised into dark-glazed terra-
the prayer hall. The green-tiled decoration, Bab Mansour cotta. The gate is framed by
awnings, the sophisticated el-Aleuj is held to be the finest protruding towers built in the
decoration of carved wood, gate in Meknès, or even in style of loggias. Temporary
stuccowork and colourful zellij Morocco. It was begun by the exhibitions are sometimes
tilework, as well as the mosaic- sultan Moulay Ismaïl in about held here.
like tiled floor make the 1672, when the building Place el-Hedime (Square of
whole courtyard an of the kasbah, his first Ruins) links the medina and the
entrancing sight. project, was under kasbah. It was laid out on the
The prayer hall, way. The gate was ruins of the Merinid kasbah
with carved stucco completed during that Moulay Ismaïl razed to
decoration and an the reign of his son, make space for the palaces,
elegant mihrab within Moulay Abdallah, in water tanks, gardens, stables,
a horseshoe arch, 1732. The gate stands arsenals and forts with which
remains unaltered. Zellij tilework in the about 16 m (52 ft) he planned to surround himself.
Students’ cells fill the Bou Inania Medersa high, while the arch The square has been restored
rest of the ground floor has a span of 8 m (26 and is now lined with modern
and the upper floor. The terrace ft) wide and is surmounted by residential buildings that are
offers a fine view of the medina a pointed horseshoe arch. An not in keeping with its historic
and the Grand Mosque next to intricate pattern of interlacing character. Nearby, to the left
the medersa. motifs is carved in relief on a of the square, is a covered
background of predominantly food market.
5 Musée Dar Jamaï

Sacred Snakes
See pp194–5.
Expelled from Meknès by the sultan in the 16th century, Sidi
Mohammed ben Aïssa, founder of the Aïssaoua brotherhood
(see p202), and his disciples fled to the desert. Famished, they
6 Bab Mansour
ate whatever they could find – snakes, scorpions and cactus
el-Aleuj and Place leaves. Ever since, the cobra
el-Hedime has been the Aïssaoua’s
mascot, and no member ever
South of the medina, Meknès. kills one. Being immune to
their venom, the Aïssaoua
Bab Mansour el-Aleuj (Gate are often called upon to rid
of the Victorius Renegade) is villages of the dangerous
named after the Christian who reptiles. Cobras also feature
designed and built it. Standing in the Aïssaouas’ religious
like a triumphal arch before the rituals, in which participants
imperial city, it pierces the walls fall into a trance-like state. An Aïssaoua in a trance
of the kasbah and leads through
5 Musée Dar Jamaï

This museum, in which Moroccan arts are displayed, is
laid out in a delightful residence built in about 1882 by
Mohammed Belarbi el-Jamaï, who was a grand vizier of
Moulay el-Hassan in 1873–4. The sophisticated architecture
of the palace includes painted wooden cornices. a green- tiled
roof and a courtyard with two pools and zellij tilework. There
is also an Andalusian garden planted with tall cypresses.
Covering 2,845 sq m (30,600 sq ft), the palace
also has several annexes and outbuildings.
Ceramics
Ceramics from Fès and
Meknès are displayed in
Room 2. Fassi potters attained Painted wooden door from a house
unprecedented renown for in Meknès
their famous blue and white
ware. Two kinds of blue
pigment were used: a pale Carpets
blueish-grey, which was in The museum’s richest section
use up until the mid-19th is that devoted to carpets,
century, and a clear blue which fill Room 4. Most
with a violet tinge that of the carpets and kilims
was obtained by more on display come from
modern industrial means. the High and Middle
The Fassi potting Atlas. Among the latter,
The Museum of Moroccan Arts, occupying industry probably the most noteworthy
a large and elegant 19th-century palace goes back to the pieces are those made
10th or 11th by two Berber tribes,
century. That the Zemmour and the
Exploring the Museum of Meknès, by Beni M’Guild. Traditions
of Moroccan Arts contrast, is Brass and painted of craftsmanship are
Before it was much more wood coffer from Fès still alive among these
converted into a recent, (19th century) tribes – a relatively rare
regional ethnographic having been phenomenon in
museum, this palace imported from Fès in Morocco – and carpets similar
incorporated a mosque, about the 18th century. to those on display here
a garden, a menzah Three colours – brown, continue to be made.
(pavilion), a courtyard, green and yellow – Meknès carpets are
a small house, a were used. characterized by a mixture
kitchen and a Perfume bottle from Before the pottery of bright colours forming
hammam. Of the Tamegroute (late 18th century) was decorated, geometric patterns. This
2,000-plus objects it was fired in section of the museum
in the museum’s collection, a kiln and then covered also includes a fine collection
some 670 are on display. in white glaze. The potter of beautiful gold-thread
would decorate this surface embroidery, another craft
with elegant motifs of speciality that has brought
Woodwork Moorish inspiration. Meknès renown.
Room 1, on the ground
floor, contains examples of
architectural features in wood – Gallery Guide
pieces of carved and painted The eight exhibition rooms on the ground floor are arranged around
wood that were used in the the garden. Room 1 contains a display of carved and painted wood;
building or decoration of the Rooms 2 and 3 are devoted to ceramics; Room 4 to carpets and
palaces and town houses embroidery; Room 5 to kaftans and belts; Room 6 to jewellery; and
of Meknès. Rooms 7 and 8 to the art of damascening (see p195). On the upper
The exhibits also include a floor, the reconstruction of a traditional Moroccan room can be seen.
17th-century minbar (pulpit) The museum has undergone renovation and its collections are now
that originally stood in the effectively displayed.
Grand Mosque in Meknès.
the wearer’s VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Costumes geographical origin
The costumes of town or tribal identity. Practical Information
and citydwellers, Modern copies Place elHedime. Tel (0535)
especially the kaftan of Berber jewellery 55 88 73. Open 9am–6:30pm
(see pp40–41), is the can be seen today Wed–Mon. &
theme of Room 5. on offer in the souks.
The brightly coloured
kaftan, a long robe This section of the museum
worn by women on Metalwork also includes an interesting
special occasions, is While ceramics collection of keys decorated
the quintessential Vase in damascened reached their apogee with the stylized names of
garment of city metal in Fès, the craftsmen their former owners.
dwellers. Kaftans were of Meknès were
often embroidered with silk, distinguished masters of
silver or gold thread, as was the the art of damascening. The The Moroccan Room
belt (mdamma) worn with the technique consists of covering As in other ethnographic
kaftan. Wealthy women might a metallic surface with a museums in the country,
even wear a belt made of silver patterned filigree of gold, this museum features a
or solid gold. The mdamma silver or copper. There are reconstruction of a traditional
now forms part of a young some particularly fine Moroccan room. On the upper
townswoman’s dowry. damascened vases in Rooms 7 floor, it has walls covered with
and 8. The craft is still very zellij tilework and a carved
much alive in Meknès today, wooden domed ceiling. It is
Jewellery and some exquisite damas furnished with pieces from
Jewellery from several regions cened pieces can be found in various houses and palaces
of Morocco is displayed in the souks of the old town. in Meknès.
Room 6. Particular prominence
is given to Berber jewellery.
Metalworking is a traditional
craft that was once widespread
throughout the country, and
was particularly associated with
Jewish craftsmen. Moroccan
jewellery, which is typically
made of gold or silver and
sometimes set with precious
or semi precious stones, is
made by ageold techniques.
It forms an integral part of
different types of dress (see
pp40–41) and the way it
is worn is highly significant.
Jewellery also once indicated Reconstruction of a traditional Moroccan room, sumptuously decorated
Embroidery
Embroidery is a timehonoured craft practised by the
townswomen of Morocco. Young girls start to learn embroidery
as children, being taught either at home or in a workshop,
and always under the supervision of a teacher (maalma).
Fès, Meknès, Marrakech, Rabat, Salé, Tetouan, Chefchaouen
and Azemmour are the main centres
of embroidery. Each town has its own
characteristic colours, stitches and
repertoire of motifs. Fès embroidery
is characterized by treelike motifs,
often depicted in a single colour.
That of Salé alternates cross stitch
and satin stitch. In Meknès embroidery
(terz el-meknassi), motifs are peppered
over the fabric, and bright colours
Cotton and silk embroidery from Rabat are used to decorate tablecloths Chefchaouen gold-
(19th century) and scarves. thread embroidery
alleys. Today, the ancient heart used by tailors (khiyatine), who

of the Imperial City, which is made military uniforms here.
partly in ruins, has become a The building is crowned by a
poor district that has been conical dome decorated with
filled with shanty dwellings. geometric and floral motifs.
The Mausoleum of Moulay Behind the pavilion are the
Ismaïl, the Lalla Aouda Mosque former underground storage
and a monumental gate areas that were converted into
near Bab Bou Ameïr are the the Christian Prison, or Habs
last surviving vestiges of Qara. The prisoners – probably
the ostentatiously grand Europeans captured by the
complex that the sultan corsairs of Rabat – were
had envisaged. made to work on the sultan’s
The second complex, which is herculean building projects.
Place Lalla Aouda and the minaret of the now in complete ruins, was the Chroniclers recorded that
Lalla Aouda Mosque Dar el-Medrasa. The palace thousands of convicts were
comprised suites of residential incarcerated in these under-
7 Dar el-Kebira rooms, some of which were ground galleries, which were
Quarter used exclusively by the sultan later partly destroyed by
and his harem. an earthquake.
Behind Place Lalla Aouda (between
Bab Moulay and the Lalla Aouda
Mosque), Meknès. 8 Lalla Aouda 0 Mausoleum of
This quarter forms part of what Mosque Moulay Ismaïl
is known as the Imperial City, Place Lalla Aouda, Meknès.
or the Kasbah of Moulay Ismaïl. See pp198–9.
Open daily. Closed to non-Muslims.
Covering an area four times as
large as that of the medina, the The first major place of worship
whole quarter is in keeping to be built by Moulay Ismaïl, q Dar el-Makhzen
with the grand ambitions of this in 1680, this mosque is one Place Bab el-Mechouar, Meknès.
enterprising sultan. Protected of the few of the sultan’s Closed to the public.
by a double line of walls and projects to have survived
monumental angled gates, the intact. The building has This royal complex was formerly
Imperial City has the appearance three doorways. Two on the known as the Palace of the
of an impregnable ksar (fortified northwestern side open Labyrinth, after a white marble
village). It contains wide avenues onto the former méchouar pool fashioned as a labyrinth.
and large squares, palaces with (parade ground) and a smaller In contrast to Dar el-Kebira
attractive pools and extensive one, on the side of the mosque and Koubba el-Khiriyatine,
gardens, as well as administrative where the mihrab is located, the complex has a neat and
buildings enclosed within their leads to a corridor running compact layout.
own ramparts. behind the mosque. It was It is divided into eight parts
The Imperial City comprises probably the sultan’s private and is surrounded by walls
three palatial complexes: Dar entrance. The pitched roof is set with bastions. In the centre
el-Kebira, Dar el-Medrasa and covered with green tiles. stands a monumental gate,
Ksar el-Mhanncha. Dar el-Kebira,
the Quarter of the Large House,
is located southeast of the 9 Koubba
medina. It was the first palatial el-Khayatine and
complex of the Imperial City
that Moulay Ismaïl ordered to Habs Qara
be built, in about 1672. It stands Place Habs Qara. Open 9am–noon,
near Place Lalla Aouda, probably 3–6pm daily. Closed public
on the site of the former holidays. &
Almohad kasbah. The complex
was cut off from the urban This imperial
bustle by a double wall and by pavilion, also known
Place el-Hedime (see p193). as the Pavilion of the
Each palace in Dar el-Kebira Ambassadors, was used
contained a harem, reception originally to receive
rooms, hammams, kitchens, diplomats who came to
armouries, ovens and mosques. negotiate, among other
They were interlinked by a things, the ransom of
somewhat haphazard network Christian prisoners.
of open or partially covered Later, the building was Gate of the Kasbah Hedrach, Dar el-Makhzen
considered to be one of the

sultan’s finest creations. This
monumental building, with
29 aisles, was designed for
storing grain. The thick walls,
as well as a network of under-
ground passages, maintained
the temperature inside the
grainstore at a low and
constant level. The ceilings
collapsed during the
earthquake of 1755.
The Bassin de l’Aguedal, a water reservoir created by Moulay Ismaïl r Haras de Meknès
Zitoune Quarter of Meknès, southwest
the fulsomely decorated Bab a noria (water wheel) once of the town. From Dar el-Ma, 1 km
el-Makhzen (Gate of the worked by horses to draw (0.6 mile) towards Dar el-Beïda,
Warehouse), built by Moulay underground water by means turning right 400 m (440 yds) beyond
el-Hassan in 1888. A second of scoops. The terraces offer a Dar el-Beïda and continuing for 2 km
gate, Bab el-Jedid (New Gate), fine view of the city. (1 mile) to the south. Open 9am–
was made on the northwestern Dar el-Ma gives access to noon, 2–6pm Mon–Fri. 8
side. Features of the complex Heri es-Souani, the so-called
include a méchouar and Kasbah Grainstore Stables, which are Although it cannot rival the
Hadrach, the former barracks of modern studs in Rabat and
the sultan’s army of black slaves. Marrakech, the Haras de Meknès
is well known in Morocco. The
stud was established in 1912
w Bassin de with the aim of improving blood
l’Aguedal lines and promoting various
Aguedal Quarter, Meknès.
Moroccan breeds of horse for use
in racing, competitive riding and
This large water reservoir fantasias (see p39).
(sahrij) was built within the The stud can accommodate
kasbah by Moulay Ismaïl. It has 231 horses, ranging from pure-
a surface area of 40,000 sq m bred Arabs and Barbs to English
(430,000 sq ft) and its purpose thoroughbreds and Anglo-
was to supply water to the Arabs. A visit here may include
palace and the Imperial City, seeing horses being put
including its mosques, Horsemen in Heri es-Souani through their paces.
hammams, gardens and
orchards. The women of the
harem, so it is said, would sail The Royal Cities
on it in their pleasure boats.
The creation of royal cities in the Islamic world dates from the late
Only a few stretches of its 8th century. The Almohads, the Merinids and the Alaouites under
crenellated walls survive. Moulay Ismaïl continued this tradition, and it spread throughout
The spot has suffered some the Maghreb, where it survived
unfortunate alterations carried until recently. The royal city is an
out in an effort to create a place architectural complex built to
where the people of Meknès protect the king and his courtiers.
could come to walk. Several palaces and other
buildings were needed to
accommodate all the members of
e Dar el-Ma and the royal household. Water tanks
Heri es-Souani were built to irrigate the many
gardens and to supply the baths
L’Agdal Quarter, Meknès. Open 9am– and hammams of the harem.
noon, 3–6pm daily. Designed both for royal
receptions and for the king’s
Dar el-Ma, the Water House, private life, the royal city was
held the town’s water reserves architecturally the most
and was another of Moulay sophisticated and most
Ismaïl’s grandiose projects. The sumptuous component of a Bab el-Makhzen, gateway of Dar
huge barrel-vaulted building great urban centre. el-Makhzen, Meknès
contains 15 rooms, each with
0 Mausoleum of Moulay Ismaïl

Featuring a suite of three rooms, 12 columns and a central
sanctuary where the great sultan (see pp58–9) lies, the
Mausoleum of Moulay Ismaïl is in some aspects reminiscent
of the Saadian Tombs in Marrakech (see pp242–3). The
mausoleum was built in the 17th century and was remodelled
in the 18th and 20th centuries. The wife of Moulay Ismaïl and
his son, Moulay Ahmed al-Dahbi, as well as the sultan Moulay
Abderrahman (1822–59), are laid to rest in the burial chamber,
which is decorated with stuccowork and mosaics. View of Meknès and the mausoleum
Finials
The roof of the mausoleum
is topped with five brass
spheres indentifying the
building as a shrine or
sacred place.
Mihrab
The mausoleum’s
mihrab is located in the
open courtyard. This
unusual position differs
from the arrangement
at the Saadian Tombs
in Marrakech
(see pp242–3).
Prayer Hall
The floor of the prayer hall is
covered with mats on which
worshippers kneel to pray or
to reflect before going into
the burial chamber.
Decorated Door
This carved and painted
wooden door between
the ablutions room . Burial Chamber
and the second room of This consists of a suite of three rooms,
the burial chamber is including the ablutions room with central
similar to those of the fountain (above) and the room containing
palaces and fine town the tomb of Moulay Ismaïl, and those of his
houses of Meknès. wife and sons.
Entrance to Mausoleum
This imposing carved stone doorway, VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
surmounted by an awning and a
pyramidal roof, indicates the
Rue Sarag, Meknès.
importance of the royal building to
Open 9am–noon & 3–6pm daily.
which it gives access.
Small Courtyards
En route to the burial
chamber you pass through
several empty courtyards,
which are decorated in a
sober style. This allows
visitors to leave behind
them the noise and
bustle of the city.
. Zellij Tilework
The lower part of the walls
of the rooms leading into
the burial chamber is
covered with traditional
zellij tilework, mosaics of
glazed polychrome tiles.
KEY . Courtyard & Fountain

The ablutions room, paved with
1 Tomb of Moulay Ismaïl green glazed tiles, is a courtyard with
2 Clock presented by Louis XIV, a star-shaped fountain and bowl. Its
(see pp58–9) 12 columns come from the el-Badi
Palace in Marrakech.
3 Cemetery
4 Open courtyard
Spectacular interiors of the Mausoleum of Moulay Ismaïl

Holy Men and Mystics

In Morocco, the Islamic faith of law-makers (fkihs) and
learned men (ulema) coexists with popular forms of religion,
in which the cult of saints and the role of brotherhoods
(known as tariqas, meaning “ways”) are prominent. Many
followers of these religions are craftsmen and traders, who
gather to perform spiritualist rites (zikrs), involving singing,
dancing and music, according to the teaching of their
respective founder. These religions are connected to those The pilgrimage to Sidi Ahmed
of Eastern mystics, and they have spread well beyond the Ou Mghanni takes place near
Imilchil, in the territory of the
boundaries of Morocco. This spiritualist branch of Islam is
Aït Haddidou. It is known as the
widely known as Sufism, after the rough woollen garment Marriage Fair, as many betrothals
(suf) worn by certain ascetics. are made on this occasion.
The Aïssaoua
This brotherhood came into being in the 16th
century. Its beliefs are based on the teachings of
Sidi Mohammed ben Aïssa, a mystic who was
born in the 15th century. Through El-Jazouli, the
holy man of Marrakech, it is connected to
Chadhiliya, the great Sufi “way” that spread
throughout the Muslim world. The Aïssaoua
brotherhood exists in Meknès (see p193) and
Fès, and also in Algeria.
The Mausoleum of Sidi Mohammed ben

Aïssa, in Meknès, contains the tomb of the
holy man who founded the Aïssaoua “way”.
The spectacular ceremonies of

the Aïssaoua, involving banners,
drums and incense, have always The Aïssaoua are
made a deep impression on always dressed in
foreigners in Morocco. This scene, white. They have
entitled Les Aïssaouas, was a fear of black.
painted by Georges Clairin
(1843–1919).
Like the Hamadcha, the Aïssaoua are a

popular brotherhood because of some of
their practices. During their moussem (festival)
they perform long drawn-out and impressive
rituals, called hadras, which are accompanied by
singing, dancing and drumming. These rituals
may send them into a trance or lead followers to
perform orgies of self-mutilation.
The moussem of Moulay Abdallah, near

El-Jadida, can draw up to 150,000 visitors and a The moussem in Guelmim, a town on the
huge tent city springs up on the site. caravan route on the edge of the Sahara (see
p298), takes place each June in honour of the
holy man Sidi el-Ghazi. Attended by the Reguibat,
nomads known as the “blue men”, this is also
when a major camel fair takes place.
During the moussem of Moulay Idriss II in

Fès, the various guilds of craftsmen, such as
tanners, shoemakers, blacksmiths, brass-founders
and coppersmiths (above) process through the
medina, bringing gifts and sacrifices to the zaouia
(shrine) of this highly venerated holy man.
Tombs of Holy Men

Followers gather eagerly in order to make pilgrimages to the many
tombs of holy men (marabouts) so as to seek a blessing (baraka).
These small mausoleums, which are often covered with a white
dome known as a koubba, can be seen throughout the
country. Some of the more important shrines – or
zaouias – are the seat of a religious brotherhood
and, besides the tomb of the holy man,
Marabout of Sidi Ahmad Ou Mghanni consist of buildings in which pilgrims are
accommodated and religious instruction
given. Once a year, certain pilgrimages take the form of moussems, great
gatherings that are simultaneously joyous occasions, festivals for the
performance of traditional shows and commercial fairs. Moussem in Guelmim
t Moulay Idriss
north of Meknès. * 12,600. @ from
Meknès. ( Sat. _ last Thu in Aug.
The most spectacular view

of Moulay Idriss is from the
scenic route from Volubilis to
Nzala des Beni Ammar, which
runs above the more frequently
used N13. In a superb setting,
the bright white town clings
to two rocky outcrops between
which rises the Tomb of Idriss I,
conspicuous with its green-
tiled roof.
Fleeing the persecution of the
Abbassid caliphs of Baghdad, The grand entrance to the Tomb of Idriss I in Moulay Idriss
Idriss found a haven in Oualili
(Volubilis). A descendant of endowed it with defensive view of the town and the
Ali, son-in-law of the Prophet walls and a monumental gate, mausoleum. The minaret (1939),
Mohammed, he founded the as well as Koranic schools, whose cylindrical shape is
first Arab-Muslim dynasty in fountains and a new dome for unusual in the Maghreb, is
Morocco. He died in 791 and the mausoleum. covered with green tiles with
was buried in the town that The Tomb of Idriss I is closed verses from the Koran.
now bears his name. It was not to non-Muslims, and a wooden
until the 16th century that the beam across the entrance marks
town began to prosper, and it this as sacred ground, or horm. y Zerhoun Massif
was still in the process of However, from the terrace, near Road Map D2. About 50 km (31 miles)
developing in the 17th century, the Mosque of Sidi Abdallah northwest of Meknès.
during the reign of Moulay el-Hajjam, which perches above
Ismaïl (see pp58–9). The latter the town, there is a splendid Culminating in Jbel Zerhoun,
which rises to a height of 1,118
m (3,670 ft), the massif forms
part of an extensive range of
hills bordering the southern
side of the Rif and running from
the region of Meknès to the
environs of Taza in the east.
This pre-Riffian terrain,
consisting mostly of clay and
marl, is very susceptible to
fluvial erosion. As a result, a
few outcrops of harder
limestone and sandstone have
emerged, one of which is Jbel
Zerhoun, whose gorges, peaks
and cliffs have all been created
by erosion.
Water is abundant here,
and the Romans tapped the
springs to supply Volubilis. Large
villages grew up on the hillsides,
along the line of springs and
at the foot of the massif. While
fig trees, orange trees and olive
trees grow on the higher slopes,
corn and barley thrive in the
valleys and on the lower
hillsides. Enclosures (zriba)
made of loose stones or thorny
branches, for small herds of
cattle, sheep and goats, can
Moulay Idriss, clinging to an outcrop of rock be seen near the villages.
agricultural and industrial

centre on the plain of the
eastern Rharb.
The three building
complexes that dominate
the town bear witness to
the history and economic
activity of Sidi Kacem. One
is the railway station, at the
intersection of lines running
between Rabat and Fès and
between Tangier and Fès.
The second is the oil refinery
(initially for local, then for
imported fuel). Thirdly, there
The verdant Zerhoun Massif, where water are the grain silos, at the
is plentiful heart of a well-watered
and productive region.
For Moroccans, Zerhoun is Sidi Kacem is a major Carpet made by the Zemmour, with graphic
a holy mountain, the home centre of agricultural geometric motifs
of many religious men, and food production and of
the setting of numerous stories brickmaking. These industries Khemisset is also the “capital” of
and legends. have made the town an the confederation of the Berber-
important banking and speaking Zemmour tribes.
commercial hub. This is a good place to stop,
u Sidi Kacem since there are many cafés and
restaurants. The town also has a
northwest of Meknès. * 70,000. £
i Khemisset crafts cooperative where you
@ from Meknès. ( Thu. Road Map D2. * 90,000. @ from
can buy regional specialities,
Meknès. ( Tue. such as carpets and mats woven
Sidi Kacem grew out of a in palm fibre or wool. Every
military outpost that was set This town was founded in Tuesday, Khemisset is the venue
up in 1915 near a zaouia and 1924, on the site of a military for one of the most important
the souk of the local Cherarda outpost on the road from Rabat country souks in Morocco, with
tribe. It is now an important to Fès. Now a provincial capital, almost 1,900 stalls.
Country Souks
At daybreak, hundreds of country people travelling on foot,
on donkeys or in heavily laden trucks make their way to a site
where tents and stalls are being set up. Around 850 country
souks – named after the day on which they take place – are
held every week in Morocco, drawing people from up to
10 km (6 miles) around. On an area of open ground, alleys
between the stalls form according to a well-defined plan.
The pattern on which the goods are laid out is similar to that
of the economic layout of a medina. In the centre are such
prized goods as fabric and clothing, followed by basketwork,
carpets and blankets; on the periphery are second-hand
items, scrap metal, humble traders such as Returning from the souk
cobblers and hairdressers, and also food
stalls. Beyond, various livestock markets are
laid out in separate areas.
Souks allow townspeople to buy
agricultural produce and craft items
brought in by country people, who in
turn stock up with groceries, sugar, tea and
fruit. They provide services, entertainment
and food, but also attract charlatans and
storytellers. The civic authorities also use
souks to set up temporary registry offices,
post offices and health centres. Permanent
shops that may appear on the site of a
weekly souk sometimes lead to the
establishment of a new town. A country souk, with tents set up for a day
o Volubilis
The ancient town of Volubilis backs on to a triangular spur
jutting out from the Zerhoun Massif. The site was settled
and began to prosper under the Mauretanian kings, from
the 3rd century BC to AD 40. Temples from this period, as
well as a strange tumulus, have been uncovered. When
Mauretania was annexed by the Roman emperor Claudius
Mosaic from the House of Dionysus and the
in AD 45, Volubilis was raised to the status of municipia (free Four Seasons
town), becoming one of the most important cities in Tingitana.
The public buildings in the northeastern quarter date
from the 1st century, and those around the forum from the
2nd century. After Rome withdrew from Mauretania in
the 3rd century, the city declined. It was inhabited by Christians
but had been Islamicized when Idriss I arrived in 788.
House of the Columns

This house is arranged around a huge
peristyle courtyard with a circular pool.
Columns with twisted fluting and composite
capitals front the grand reception room.
KEY
1 Macellum (market)
2 House of the Athlete
3 House of the Dog
4 Knight’s House
5 The House of the Labours
of Hercules is named after a
mosaic found here depicting the
Greek hero’s 12 labours.
6 Decumanus maximus.
7 House of Dionysus and the
Four Seasons
8 House of the Bathing Nymphs
9 Gordian Palace
0 Tangier Gate
q House of the Golden Coins
w Aqueduct
. Triumphal Arch
e Artisans’ quarters Bestriding the decumanus maximus, the triumphal arch overlooks
r House of Orpheus plantations of cereals and olive trees. The fertile plain to the west of
Volubilis has provided the area with grain and oil since antiquity.
The Site of Volubilis Today VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The forum, basilica and capitol were built in
the 2nd century, under the Severi dynasty. Practical Information
Richly appointed residences paved with Road Map D2.
mosaics also graced the city. These buildings 31 km (19 miles) northwest of
are still easily identifiable today. Excavations Meknès; 5 km (3 miles) from
have shown that the site was still inhabited Moulay Idriss. Open 8am–one hour
during the Almoravid period (see pp48–9). before sunset daily. 8 & -
Transport
@ from Meknès to Moulay Idriss,
then by grand taxi to the site.
. Diana and the Bathing Nymphs

In this mosaic in the House of the Cortège of Venus,
the nymphs admire Diana as she receives water from
Pegasus, the winged horse. A similar scene is depicted
in a mosaic in the House of the Bathing Nymphs.
. Basilica
Apart from the triumphal arch, this
was the only building whose ruins
were still impressive when excavations
began. The interior is divided into
three aisles and two apses.
Visitors’ entrance
The Capitol
Of the original
building (dating
from the early 3rd
century) only the
foundations
remain. The
sacrificial altar,
identifiable by its
moulded base,
stood in front of
the steps.
Exploring Volubilis
The ancient site of Volubilis was known from the 18th
century, but it was not until the late 19th century that it was
first investigated. Excavations resumed in 1915, and have
continued almost uninterrupted since, although extensive
areas still remain to be explored. Although Volubilis is
not as large as some other Roman towns, it shows how
thoroughly romanized Mauretania Tingitana had become. Reconstruction of an oil press, showing the
This is seen in the public buildings and sophisticated town baskets used for pressing the olives
houses within the 2nd-century walls, which enclose an area
of more than 400,000 sq m (4,300,000 sq ft). The site, a pre- geometric patterns and bath
suites with hypocausts
existing settlement on which the Romans imposed their
(underfloor heating).
way of life, features baths, oil presses, bakeries, aqueducts,
drains and shops that evoke the inhabitants’ daily lives. Oil Press
Volubilis is well-signposted and easy to explore. The reconstruction of an
oil press near the House of
Orpheus shows how this
The House of Orpheus courtyard, is the main reception device worked in Roman times.
Located in the southern room; the centre is paved with The olives were crushed in a
quarter of the city, the House the Orpheus Mosaic, the largest cylindrical vat by the action of a
of Orpheus is remarkable not of the circular mosaics that have millstone fixed to a vertical axis.
only for its size but for the rooms been discovered in Volubilis. The resulting pulp was emptied
that it contains. Opposite the A richly dressed Orpheus is into rush or esparto baskets laid
entrance is a large peristyle depicted charming a lion, beneath planks of wood on
courtyard, with a slightly an elephant and other animals which pressure was exerted
sunken square pool that is with his lyre. The house also has by means of a beam that acted
decorated with a mosaic of an oil press with purification as a lever. The oil ran out along
tritons, cuttlefish, dolphins tanks, as well as private areas. channels and into purification
and other sea creatures. The These have further rooms tanks set up outside. Water
tablinum, looking onto the paved with mosaics in poured into the tanks forced
Reconstruction of Volubilis Tangier Gate

Most of the major public and private
buildings date from the 2nd and 3rd House of Venus
centuries AD, when the city was at
its peak. Only the centre of the
city has been excavated. Basilica
Ramparts
Temple of
House of Dionysus and the Saturn
Four Seasons
House of the Columns
Wadi
Fertassa
Capitol
Triumphal Arch House of House of Orpheus

of Caracalla the Athlete Forum Oil presses
the better-quality oil to float to frieze and a band, and the

the surface. It was then poured whole was crowned by a
off into large earthenware jars chariot drawn by six horses.
for local use or for export. The arch, which stands
over 8 m (26 ft) high, was
The Forum, Basilica reconstructed in 1933. It faces
and Capitol west onto the plain and east
Like the other major public onto the decumanus maximus.
buildings in the heart of the The Chariot Jumper, parodied in This main axis through the
city, the unusually small forum this mosaic city, 400 m (1,312 ft) long and
dates from the early 3rd 12 m (39 ft) wide, leads from
century. It was the focal point The mosaic here depicts the the triumphal arch in the
of public life and administration, desultor as a parody. The naked southwest to the gateway
as well as a meeting place athlete is shown bestriding a known as Tangier Gate in
where business was done. It is donkey backwards, and holding the northeast.
continued on its western side a cantharus, a drinking vessel Parallel with the decumanus
by the macellum, a market that given as a prize. The scarf, maximus, and a few metres
was originally covered. another emblem of victory, away on its southern side, ran
On the left of the entrance, flutters in the background, an aqueduct, substantial parts
from the direction of the oil press, behind the horseman. of which survive. This brought
stands the stele of Marcus Valerius water from the Aïn Ferhana,
Servus, which lists the territory House of the Dog and House a spring 1 km (0.6 mile) east-
that the citizens of Volubilis of the Ephebe southeast of Volubilis, on Jbel
possessed in the hinterland. The House of the Dog, behind Zerhoun, to the city’s baths
On the eastern side of the the triumphal arch on the and fountains. The largest of
forum, a short flight of steps western side, is laid out to a these fountains can be seen
and three semicircular arches typical Roman plan. A double between the basilica and the
leads into the basilica. This doorway opens onto a lobby triumphal arch.
was the meeting place of leading through to the atrium.
the curia (senate), as well as the This room, which is lined on Aristocratic Quarter
commercial exchange and three sides by a colonnade, Fine houses, such as the elegant
tribunal, and somewhere to contains a pool and leads in House of the Columns, House
take a stroll. On the capitol, turn to a large dining room, of the Knight and House of the
south of the basilica, public rites or triclinium. In 1916, a bronze Labours of Hercules, constituted
in honour of Jupiter, Juno and statue of a dog (see p83) was the aristocratic quarter. The
Minerva were performed. discovered in one of the rooms House of Dionysus and the Four
off the triclinium. Seasons, and the House of the
Opposite the House of the Bathing Nymphs, have high-
Dog stands the House quality mosaics. The
of the Ephebe, where Gordian Palace, named
a beautiful statue of after Emperor
an ivy-wreathed Gordian III (238–44)
ephebe (youth in and probably the
military training) residence of the
was found in 1932. It Roman governor, is
is now in the Musée notable for the 12
Archéologique in Rabat columns that front it
(see pp82–3). Autumn, from the and the horseshoe-
Four Seasons shaped pool with
Triumphal Arch and almost perfectly
Decumanus Maximus semicircular outlines.
According to the inscription
The decumanus, linking Tangier Gate and that it bears, the triumphal Cortège of Venus
the triumphal arch arch was erected in AD 217 by Busts of Cato the Younger
the governor Marcus Aurelius (see p83) and Juba II were found
House of the Athlete Sebastenus in honour of south of the decumanus. The
The athlete that gives this Caracalla and his mother mosaic depicting the Cortège
house its name is the desultor, Julia Domna. The statues that of Venus, which paved the
or chariot jumper, who took originally filled the niches in triclinium, is displayed in
part in the Olympic Games. He the arch were surmounted by the Musée Archéologique in
would leap from his horse or busts of Caracalla and his Tangier (see pp136–7). Some of
his chariot in the middle of a mother within medallions. the mosaics have motifs very
race and remount or get back Above the inscription, at the similiar to those seen in Berber
in immediately. top of the monument, ran a carpets today.
MIDDLE ATLAS
A wild region of rare beauty, the Middle Atlas is surprisingly
little visited. The great cedar forests that cover the mountain
sides between deep valleys stretch as far as the eye can see.
Bordered by the fertile plain of the Saïs and the cities of Fès
and Meknès, the mountainous heights of the Middle Atlas
are the territory of Berber tribes, whose population is
thinly scattered over the area.
The mountains of the Middle Atlas the Middle Atlas abuts the foothills of
are traversed by one of the main routes the High Atlas. Here, the Cascades d’
through to southern Morocco, running Ouzoud crash down 100 m (328 ft) to
from Fès to the Tafilalt. It is worth the bottom of a natural chasm wreathed
taking some time here to appreciate in luxuriant vegetation.
the beauty and serenity of the Nicknamed the Switzerland of
region’s landscapes. Morocco, the Middle Atlas also features
This mountain chain northeast of the some exquisitely scenic small towns
Atlas is 350 km (217 miles) long, and is at mid-altitude. Ifrane, which has stone-
delimited on its eastern side by Tazzeka built chalets with red-tiled roofs, Azrou,
National Park, whose terrain is scarred a resort on the slopes of a cedar
with caves and gorges. South of Sefrou, plantation, and Imouzzer du Kandar
forests of cedar, holm-oak and cork oak are among the most attractive; they
form a patchwork with the bare volcanic also serve as bases for hikes and tours
plateaux and small lakes brimming in the mountains.
with fish. A tour of the lakes takes in the wild
The Oum er-Rbia rises in the heart and arid mountain landscape, which is
of the mountains. The longest river in populated only by Berbers. Forest roads
Morocco, it runs for 600 km (375 miles) darkened by towering stands of cedar
before reaching the Atlantic. To the west, are patrolled by peaceable macaques.
Berber shepherd with his flock of sheep in the lakes region of the Middle Atlas
One of the most popular sights in Morocco, the Cascades d’Ouzoud
Exploring the Middle Atlas

A varied landscape characterizes the Middle Atlas. The
eastern part receives scant rainfall and is thus only sparsely
covered with vegetation, but above the deep valleys rise Jbel
Bou Naceur and Jbel Bou Iblane: reaching a height of 3,340 m
(10,962 ft) and 3,190 m (10,470 ft) respectively, these are the
highest peaks of the Middle Atlas. In the thinly populated
central high plateaux between Azrou and Timhadit, lakes Area shown by Sidi Kacem
(known as dayet or aguelmame) fill the craters of extinct map below
volcanoes and are surrounded by forests. The western part MEKNÈS
receives the highest rainfall and arable areas have attracted Rabat
denser populations. Here, plateaux and valleys are covered in
forests of cedar, cork oak and maritime pine. From December,
peaks over 2,000 m (6,564 ft) are covered with snow. The
Middle Atlas is the territory of the semi-nomadic Beni
M’Gild and Zaïana peoples.
0 km 10
0 miles 10
Aguelmouss
Ou
ed
The desert-like shores of Sidi Ali Lake Gr
ou
Rabat
KHENIFRA
Sidi Lamine
Oued Zem
Casablanca Âït-Ischak
BOUJAD
Key
Motorway Tirhboula Zaouia-
ech-Cheïkh
Major road KASBA El-Ksiba
TADLA
Minor road
Track Fkih-Ben-Salah
Railway Oulad-
Yaïche
El-Borouj Tarhzirte Imilchil
Summit ia
Rb
e r-
Pass u m
iO Forum el-Anser
Wa d BENI MELLAL
Jbel Tassemit
Dar-Ould- 2248m
Zidouh Oulad-M’barek
Marrakech Bin el-Ouidane BIN EL-OUIDANE

DAM
CASCADES
D'OUZOUD
Azilal

M I D D L E AT L A S  213
TAZA Guercif
Sida-Abdallah-
Taounate des-Rhiata
GOUFFRE DU
Ouezzane
JBEL TAZZEKA FRIOUATO
NATIONAL PARK
FÈS
Bir-Tam-Tam
Bhalil Merhraoua
El-Menzel
SEFROU
Ribat-el-
IMOUZZER Kheyr
DU KANDAR Djebel Bou Iblane
El-Hajeb 3190m
Dayet Aoua
LAKES TOUR
s Djebel Bou Naceur
IFRANE Skoura a 3340m

l
AZROU t
MISCHLIFFEN
A Âït-
Makhlouf
Assaka-n-
Tatsa Boulemane
Âïn-Leuh
Timahdite
l e
Enjil
d
SOURCES OF THE
OUM ER-RBIA i d AGUELMANE
SIDI ALI
Missour
M
Zad Pass
Kia-Âït Oufella
AGUELMANE
AZIGZA
Zeïda
El-Kebab
Boumia
Midelt
Valleys near Imouzzer du Kandar
Sights at a Glance
Getting Around
1 Taza
2 Jbel Tazzeka National Park
The major roads between Fès and
w Aguelmane Sidi Ali
3 Gouffre du Friouato
Khenifra and between Fès and Midelt
e Khenifra
are in a reasonably good state of repair.
4 Sefrou r Kasba Tadla
By contrast, the minor roads are narrow
5 Imouzzer du Kandar t Boujad and the distances that they cover are
6 Ifrane y Beni Mellal long because the terrain is hilly; they
7 Azrou u Bin el-Ouidane Dam can be impassable in winter. These
8 Mischliffen i Cascades d’Ouzoud minor roads are, however, the only
0 Sources of the Oum means of exploring the Middle Atlas.
er-Rbia Tour
In the eastern part of the mountains,
q Aguelmane Azigza 9 Lakes Tour many tracks lead to small isolated lakes.
Taza, between the Rif and the Middle Atlas, on the route towards eastern Morocco
1 Taza non-Muslims, who are therefore In the middle of a valley of

Road Map E2. * 120,000. £ from
unable to see the interior of the almond, cherry and fig trees are
Oujda, Fès and Meknès. @ from magnificent pierced dome or the Cascades de Ras el-Oued
Nador, El-Hoceima, Fès and Oujda. the fine bronze candelabrum. (falls which only flow between
n 56 Avenue Mohammed V. There is a lively souk in the November and April). The
_ Moussem of Sidi Zerrouk (Sep). medina, as well as an unusual winding road crosses the fertile
minaret whose summit is wider plateau of the Chiker, a punch-
Located on the route between than the base of Djemma Es bowl which at certain times of
Fès and Oujda, in the lower Souk, the Market Mosque. Bab year becomes a small lake (dayet)
foothills of the Rif and the er-Rih, in the north of the town, fed by underground water.
Middle Atlas, the town of Taza is offers a splendid view of the Beyond Bab Taka, a mountain
a stopping-place that seldom orchards and olive trees below, pass at an altitude of 1,540 m
figures on the tourist route. It is, the hills of the Rif and the slopes (5,054 ft), a narrow track leads
however, one of the oldest of Jbel Tazzeka. over 9 km (5.5 miles) to the
towns in Morocco. summit of Jbel Tazzeka. The peak,
Taza was founded in the 8th at an altitude of 1,980 m (6,498 ft),
century by the Meknassa, a 2 Jbel Tazzeka supports a television mast.
Berber tribe, and was regularly National Park There is a fine view north over
seized by sultans who wished to Road Map E2. Y 76-km (47-mile)
the mountains of the Rif, west
establish their authority before tour starting from Taza. ( Sun, at over the plain of Fès and south
going on to take Fès. The old Es-Sebt. to the higher foothills of the
town, built on a rocky hill, Middle Atlas and the snow peaks
overlooks the new town, 3 km Established in 1950 to protect the of the Jbel Boulblanc. The road
(2 miles) below, which the French cedar forests of Jbel Tazzeka, this then winds through the Wadi
began to build in 1920. The 3-km national park offers a spectacular Zireg gorge. Caves in the cliffs
(2-mile) walls surrounding the tour southwest of Taza. here are used by local shepherds.
medina date mostly from the
12th century, the Almohad
period, and were restored on
several occasions, notably by
the Merinids in the 14th century.
Moulay Ismaïl, of the Alaouite
dynasty, embellished the town
and heightened its role as a
military stronghold on the
eastern frontier.
The Andalusian Mosque, with
a 12th-century minaret, stands
at the entrance to the medina,
from where the main street runs
through to the Grand Mosque.
Founded by the Almohad sultan
Abd el-Moumen in 1135, this
is one of the oldest mosques
in Morocco. It is closed to A single-storey house in the foothills of Jbel Tazzeka
3 Gouffre du The town is bisected

Friouato by Wadi Aggaï, which
irrigates the surrounding
Road Map E2. 22 km (13.5 miles) fertile plain. Four bridges
southwe st of Taza. link the two parts of the
This natural chasm, which was town. South of the wadi
first explored in 1934, is open to is the mellah, the former
visitors, although sturdy walking Jewish quarter, a district
boots are necessary. A flight of of narrow winding
500 slippery steps leads down to streets. North of the wadi
the cave. It is 180 m (590 ft) deep is the old medina, with
and contains galleries and halls its souks centred around
filled with fascinating stalactites, the Grand Mosque and Fortified gateway into the mellah in Sefrou
stalagmites and other formations. the zaouia of Sidi
The adjacent Chiker Caves are Lahcen Lyoussi, who became 5 Imouzzer du
open only to speleologists. patron saint of Sefrou in the Kandar
18th century. On the north side
of the town, outside the Road Map D2. * 12,000. ( Mon.
_ Apple Festival (Jul).
ramparts, is a crafts centre where
leather goods, pottery and
wrought-iron items are made. Built by the French, the small
The Cherry Festival, marking hillside town of Imouzzer du
the end of the cherry harvest Kandar overlooks the Saïss plain,
in June, is a major event in the which abuts the plateaux of the
town, which is surrounded by Middle Atlas. At an altitude of
cherry orchards. The festival 1,345 m (4,414 ft), the town is
goes on for several days, and pleasantly cool in summer,
the major event is a grand providing a welcome respite
procession marked by the from the heat of Fès and
coronation of the Cherry Queen. Meknès. Many Moroccans come
The impressive canyons of the Folk dancers and musicians here for the weekend.
Sebou gorge from the Middle Atlas, Fès and The dilapidated kasbah of
the Rif perform and there are the Aït Serchouchène, where
4 Sefrou sometimes fantasias. the souk takes place, contains
Road Map D2. * 230,000. @ from
The road following the river troglodytic dwellings, of which
Fès and Midelt. ( Thu. _ Cherry upstream for 1 km (0.6 mile) there are many in the region.
Festival (Jun); Moussem of Sidi Lahcen west of Sefrou leads to the The caves were dug into the
Lyoussi (Aug). Kef el-Moumen Caves, natural hillside and, in times gone by,
caves in the cliff face containing protected Berbers from attacks
This ancient town has always tombs that are venerated by by their enemies. Some are
stood in the shadow of Fès, Muslims and Jews. One of them still inhabited. Steps or just a
the imperial capital. It takes its is said to be that of the prophet slope lead up to the entrance.
name from the Ahel Sefrou, a Daniel. The Wadi Aggaï Falls The openings – no more
Berber tribe that was converted here bring a welcome freshness than a small door and a few
to Judaism 2,000 years ago, to the surrounding hills. ventilation holes – are small
and that was then Islamicized The green-roofed Koubba so as to keep out the cold,
by Idriss I in the 8th century. of Sidi bou Ali Serghine, 2 km and the spartan interiors have
In the 12th century, trade (1 mile) west of Sefrou, offers neither water nor electricity.
with the Sahara brought a scenic view over Sefrou and
Sefrou prosperity. A century the Kandar hills. Nearby is the
later, it became home to a miraculous spring of Lalla
large colony of Jews who had Rekia, which is reputed to
fled from the Tafilalt and cure madness.
southern Algeria. In 1950, a third The village of Bhalil, 7 km
of Sefrou’s population was (4 miles) north of Sefrou,
Jewish. The majority of Jews has troglodytic dwellings. Its
emigrated to Israel in 1967, population, Christian during
and the town’s population is the Roman period, was
now mostly Muslim. converted to Islam by Idriss II.
Sefrou is surrounded by A minor road east of Sefrou
crenellated ramparts pierced leads to the small town of
by nine gates. These ochre pisé El-Menzel. The kasbah here over-
walls have been restored on looks the Sebou Gorge, which Troglodytic dwelling in the kasbah of
several occasions. has impressively sheer cliffs. Imouzzer du Kandar
During the Protectorate the

town became a health resort,
and highly reputed treatment
centres are still found here. It
is also the departure point for
tours of the cedar forests and
plateaux. The lakes in the
vicinity offer fishing for trout,
pike and roach (a permit
is compulsory).
Environs
North of Azrou, the road to
The King’s summer residence at Ifrane, set in a dense cedar forest El-Hajeb runs along the edge
of the Balcon d’Ito plateau,
6 Ifrane Environs offering good views of the
63 km (39 miles) south of Fès on road
Road R707 out of Ifrane, going “lunar” landscape. The Berber
N8. * 10,000. @ from Fès and up to the Tizi-n-Tretten Pass, hill village of Aïn Leuh, 32 km
Azrou. n Avenue Mohammed V; leads to the Forêt de Cèdres. (20 miles) south of Azrou, hosts
(0535) 56 68 21. After running along the the Middle Atlas Arts Festival
Mischliffen and Jbel Hebri, it in July. There is a souk here on
Established in 1929 during the reaches a legendary 900-year- Mondays and Thursdays.
Protectorate, Ifrane is a small, old cedar, the Cèdre Gouraud.
noticeably clean town with a
European rather than a
Moroccan character. Located at 7 Azrou
an altitude of 1,650 m (5,415 ft), 48 km (30 miles) south of Ifrane on
it is cool in summer and may be road N8. * 45,000. @ from Meknès,
snow-bound from December to Fès, Marrakech and Er-Rachidia;
March. On the descent into the Grands taxis. n Ifrane; (0535) 566821.
valley, a green-roofed palace, ( Tue.
the King’s summer residence,
comes into view. Al-Akhawaya A large outcrop of volcanic rock
University, inaugurated by at the entrance to the town
Hassan II in 1995, has gave Azrou (meaning “rock” in
contributed considerably to the Berber) its name. At an altitude
town’s development. of 1,250 m (4102 ft),
Ifrane serves as the it is located at the
departure point for crossroads of routes
many tours, linking Meknès
including a trip to and Erfoud, and
the waterfalls known Wooden chalet in Ifrane Fès and Marrakech.
as the Cascades des The town nestles in
Vierges, 3 km (2 miles) west the centre of a geological basin,
(follow the signs to Source with Jbel Hebri to the southeast. The ski resort on the Mischliffen, located in
Vittel), and north to the zaouia It is circled by a dense belt of a volcanic crater
of Ifrane, which is surrounded cedar and holm-oak, where the
by caves and koubbas. Beni M’Gild, the most prominent 8 Mischliffen
Berber tribe in the region, once Road Map D2.
came to spend their summers.
These nomadic pastoralists from A shallow bowl surrounded
the Sahara gradually adopted by cedar forests, the Mischliffen
a sedentary lifestyle and is the crater of an extinct
founded the town. volcano. The villages here are
Azrou is still a regional market outnumbered by the tents of
town, with a large weekly souk. the shepherds who bring their
At the crafts centre (opposite the flocks for summer grazing. A
police station) items made of small winter sports resort (also
cedar, thuya, walnut and juniper called Mischliffen) has been set
are on sale, as are wrought-iron up, at an altitude of 2,000 m
objects and the renowned (6,564 ft), among the trees. The
carpets, with geometric motifs resort’s facilites, which consist
Holm-oak in the forests surrounding the on a red background, made by of just two ski-lifts, are, however,
town of Azrou the Beni M’Gild. relatively basic.
9 Lakes Tour
Three attractive lakes – Dayet Aoua, Dayet Ifrah and Dayet
Hachlaf – lie 9 km (6.5 miles) south of Imouzzer du Kandar. 2 Bird sanctuary
A turning off road N8 leads to Dayet Aoua, which formed in When the lakes
are full, the area
a natural depression. The narrow road running along it becomes a nature
leads to Dayet Ifrah, surrounded by a cirque of mountains, reserve for many
and on to Dayet Hachlaf. Beyond a forestry hut, a track species of birds. It
on the right leads to the Vallée des Roches (Valley of the attracts waders –
such as avocets, cattle
Rocks). Ducks, grey herons, cranes, egrets, birds of prey and egrets, grey herons and
dragonflies populate these arid expanses. crested coots – wildfowl, birds
of prey – such as red kites and
kestrels – and swallows.
Imouzzer du
Kandar, Fès
Ifrane
Takelfount
forestry hut
Sefrou, Fès
1 Dayet Aoua
This lake sits in a
natural depression
surrounded by hills. Dayat
It sometimes remains iffer
dry for several years in
a row and this is due
to persistent drought
and the fact that the
water table has been Dayat Boulemane, Midelt
tapped to irrigate Ifrane Hachlaf
orchards in the area.

Dayat el Hachlaf
Forestry Hut
3 Dayet Ifrah Surrounded by

a natural amphitheatre of hills,
this is one of the largest lakes
Ifrane in the area. Shepherds set up
their tents on the lakeshore,
and two hamlets face each
other across the water, their
Mischliffen
white minarets rising up into
the sky.
4 Vallée des Roches

A track on the right, 0 kilometres 5
beyond the forestry hut, 0 miles 5
leads to these outcrops
of limestone, strangely
shaped by erosion, and to
caves inhabited by bats.
Tips for Drivers
Tour length: about 60 km
5 Rock formations (37 miles).
Continuing along track P7231 Departure point: 16 km
in the direction of the Ifrane- (10 miles) north of Ifrane on the
Mischliffen road, a rough track Key N8, forking left to Dayet Aoua.
branching off to the right leads Tour route (track) Duration: one day.
to this circle of rocks which, Stopping place: Chalet du Lac,
shaped by natural forces, have Road
on the shores of Dayet Aoua.
the appearance of ruins. Track
e Khenifra
160 km (99 miles) from Fès; 130 km
(81 miles) from Beni Mellal. * 15,000.
@ from Fès and Marrakech.
( Sun & Wed.
In the folds of the arid hills

and on the banks of the Oum
er-Rbia stand houses painted
in the carmine red that is
typical of Khenifra. Until the
17th century, the town was
the rallying point of the Zaïane
tribe, which resisted attempts
by the French to pacify the
region. In the 18th century
Moulay Ismaïl asserted his
authority by building imposing
The sources of the Oum er-Rbia, the “Mother of Spring” kasbahs in which armies
were garrisoned. The livestock
0 Sources of the w Aguelmane market here is one of the few
Oum er-Rbia Sidi Ali interesting aspects of the town.
160 km (99 miles) from Fès and from Junction with road N13.
Beni Mellal. Please note: there are no
hotels or petrol stations on road N8
A right turn off road N13
between Azrou and Khenifra.
from Azrou to Midelt leads
to Aguelmane Sidi Ali, a
A winding road runs above the deep, fish-filled lake that is
valley of the Oum er-Rbia, then 3 km (2 miles) long and lies
leads down to the wadi. The river’s at an altitude of 2,000 m
sources – more than 40 springs – (6,564 ft). With Jbel Hayane
form cascades that crash down rising above, it is surrounded
the limestone cliffs, joining to form by rugged hills and desolate
the Oum er-Rbia, the longest river pasture where the Beni
in Morocco. The springs can be M’Gild’s flocks are brought
explored via a footpath. for summer grazing.
Continuing towards Midelt,
this very scenic road climbs
up to the Zad Pass, which
at 2,178 m (7,148 ft), is the A typical intricately designed gate
highest in the Middle Atlas. in Khenifra
The Lions of the Atlas

Before World War I, the roaring of lions in the Moroccan Atlas could
be heard at dusk and during the night. The last Atlas lion was killed
in 1922. During the Roman period, lions were plentiful in North Africa.
Aguelmane Azigza, a lake in a They flourished in Tunisia until the 17th century, although by 1891
verdant setting not one remained. In Algeria, the last lion was killed in 1893, about
100 km (60 miles) south of
q Aguelmane Constantine. The lions of the
Atlas were large, with a thick
Azigza mane, which was very dark
12 km (7.5 miles) south of the sources or almost black. Because
of the Oum er-Rbia. the genetic make-up of the
Atlas lion is known, it should
The rivers whose sources lie be possible to bring this
in the heart of the Middle Atlas extinct sub-species back
have formed lakes in the craters to life. With this end in view,
of extinct volcanoes. One such a breeding programme is
is Aguelmane Azigza. It is under way, using lions bred
enclosed by cliffs and forests in circuses and in zoos, most Lion of the Atlas (1829), portrayed by Eugène
of cedar and holm-oak and particularly the zoo in Rabat. Delacroix (Musée Bonnat, Bayonne)
contains plenty of fish.
The Tigrigra Valley, Azrou
Olives and Olive Oil

Olive groves are a common sight around Meknès
and Beni Mellal and in the Rif. The gnarled and knotty
olive tree survives in poor soil, taking root in rough
and uneven ground. Olive oil is extracted by time-
honoured methods. In the autumn, the green, black
and violet-tinged olives are harvested, the mixture
of all three determining the flavour and aroma of the
oil. A heavy grindstone turned by donkeys grinds
the olives, crushing both
the flesh and the kernel.
The resulting dark-hued
pulp is emptied into large,
shallow, circular porous
containers placed beneath
the oil press. The oil seeps
out and runs into vats,
where, mixed with water, it
Piles of olives set out for sale in the souk floats to the surface, free of
debris. A whole 5 kg (11 lb)
of olives makes just 1 litre (1.76 pints) of oil. On the colourful stalls in the souks,
the different kinds of olives are piled up into pyramids; there are green olives
with herbs, violet-hued olives with a sharp taste, piquant olives spiced with red
peppers, olives with bitter orange, crushed black olives that have been sun-dried Grindstones, carved from a
and steeped in oil, and olives for making tajine. single block
Environs Environs olive oil here. El-Ksiba is an

The village of El-Kebab Plantations of olive trees attractive village on the edge
clings to a hillside southeast of cover the Tadla plain between of the forest 22 km (13.5 miles)
Khenifra. Here craftsmen make Kasba Tadla and Khenifra, and east of Kasba Tadla. It has a souk,
pottery and carpets. Above the many traditional olive mills line which is very busy on Sundays.
village is the hermitage where the road at Tirhboula, about Beyond El-Ksiba, the road
Father Albert Peyriguère, a 10 km (6 miles) from Khenifra. becomes a track that crosses
doctor and companion to In the autumn, visitors can see the High Atlas via Imilchil,
the French ascetic Charles de the various stages in the oil- descending to Tinerhir, in
Foucauld, lived from 1928 producing process and buy the southern foothills.
to 1959. A souk is held
on Mondays.
r Kasba Tadla
82 km (51 miles) southwest of
Khenifra on road N8. * 36,000.
@ from Beni Mellal and Khenifra.
n Beni Mellal. ( Mon.
The focal point of this former

garrison town is, predictably,
the kasbah, which was built
by Moulay Ismaïl in the 1600s.
So as to subdue rebellious
tribes, Moulay Ismaïl made
his son governor of the
province. The latter built a
second kasbah, contiguous
with the one that his father
had built. A double line of
walls thus surrounds the town,
enclosing two dilapidated
mosques, the former governor’s
palace and grain stores. Below
the town, a ten-span bridge
crosses Wadi Oum er-Rbia. The ten-span bridge over the Oum er-Rbia at Kasba Tadla
The Mountains of Morocco

From the high peaks down to altitudes above 600 m (1,970 ft),
the climate is permanently moist. Annual precipitation
ranges from 650 mm (25 in) in the eastern Grand Atlas to
over 2 m (80 in) in the Rif, and snowfall is often heavy. The
vegetation in this band is particularly luxuriant, and many
forests thrive in this well-watered environment. The forests
Holm-oak grows at altitudes of
consist mostly of cedar, cork oak, deciduous oak, evergreen 600 to 2,700 m (1,970 to 8,860 ft)
holm-oak and, in the Rif, Moroccan pine. and makes up a quarter of all
Morocco’s forested areas.
Atlas cedar
Forests of Atlas cedar are impressive
for their sheer size, and the trees for
their beauty, their majestic appearance
and their height, which can exceed
50 m (164 ft).
Aleppo pine, which grows naturally

in the mountains, is planted almost
everywhere since its timber is used Holm-oak
for a wide range of purposes. Barbary thuya
The carob produces Aleppo pine can

sugar-rich pods that are grow to a height of
a nutritious food for both 25 m (82 ft).
humans and animals.
Argan
Kermes oak
Wild olive can be used

as grafting stock. Its The argan (see p131) is
timber is suitable for a small tree that grows
carpentry and is also exclusively in southwestern
used as firewood. Morocco. Argan nuts are
a favourite food of goats,
which climb up into the
branches to reach them.
Oil extracted from the
kernels is used in foods, in
cosmetics and as a tonic.
M I D D L E At L A s  223
High-Altitude Vegetation
At altitudes above 2,700 m (8,860 ft), the mountains
consist of cold and arid steppe, which is often
covered in snow. No trees grow here but there are
abundant streams. The low-growing vegetation,
including some endemic species, is
varied and forms a covering of spiny,
cushion-like clumps.
Juniper The Tizi-n-Test Pass commands a view

of the snowy heights of the Atlas and the
Souss valley, 2,000 m (6,564 ft) below.
Mountain Fauna
The Barbary sheep, Africa’s only wild
sheep, inhabits the High and Middle
Atlas. It can also be seen in Jbel Toubkal
National Park (see p253), which was
created especially to ensure its survival.
Three-quarters of the country’s population
of macaques live in the cedar forests of
the Middle Atlas. Wild boar is found in
all mountainous areas and the Barbary
stag was reintroduced in 1990. Birds
are plentiful at altitudes between 2,200
and 3,600 m (7,220 and 11,815 ft). They
include the golden eagle, Bonelli’s eagle,
booted eagle, the huge lammergeier,
Egyptian vulture, partridge, Moussier’s
redstart and the rare crimson-winged
finch, which nests only at altitudes
above 2,800 m (9,190 ft).
Barbary sheep Adult booted eagle,

feeding chicks in
the nest
M’Goun, which rises to a height of more than Female macaque carrying her newborn
4,000 m (13,128 ft), is the second-highest on her back
peak in the High Atlas.
y Beni Mellal touristique” leads to the Aïn

30 km (18.5 miles) southwest of Asserdoun springs, which
Kasba Tadla on road N8. * 140,000. run between trees and small
@ from Khenifra, Marrakech and gardens. It is worth making
Demnate. n Avenue Hassan II; (0523) the short detour to Ras el-Aïn,
48 78 29 or (0529) 80 24 79. ( Tue; a little further up. This stone
Sun in Sebt-Oulad-Nemaa 35 km (22 and pisé borj (tower) offers
miles) to the west. a picturesque view of Beni
Mellal and its orchards.
The modern town of Beni Mellal
lies at the foot of the Middle Environs
Atlas, on the edge of the great The area around Beni Mellal
Tadla plain, where cereals are has many waterfalls,
extensively cultivated. springs, caves and
Although it is devoid wooded gorges
of any obvious appeal, populated by
The Aïn-Asserdoun springs, “Springs of it is still a convenient monkeys. About
the Mule” stopping-place. 10 km (6 miles) east,
Inhabited by Berbers a road leads to Foum
t Boujad and Jews well before el-Anser, where a
24 km (15 miles) north of Kasba Tadla
the arrival of Islam, the waterfall crashes into
on road R312. * 15,000. ( Thu. town was known Cedar-dwelling a gorge. The rockface
successively as Day, macaque here is marked by
The holy town of Boujad, Kasba Belkouche and artificial caves, access
which is filled with koubbas Beni Mellal. In the 13th century, to which is difficult. South of
(tombs) and shrines, is set in it stood on the border between Beni Mellal, a hillside track leads
the Tadla plain, on the caravan the kingdoms of Fès and up to Jbel Tassemit (2,248 m/
route that once ran between Marrakech, which were the 7,378 ft), which is the departure
Marrakech and Fès. It was object of bitter dispute between point for scenic mountain
established in the 16th century the Merinid and Almohad hikes. Hikers can also reach
by Sidi Mohammed ech- dynasties. In 1680 Moulay Ismaïl the Tarhzirte Gorge and the
Cherki, patron saint of Tadla, built a kasbah here, which was Wadi Derna valley, 20 km
who built an important restored on several occasions. (12 miles) northeast of
zaouia here. The saint and his The town is surrounded by Beni Mellal.
descendants, bearers of baraka orange groves (oranges from
(blessing, luck or good fortune) Beni Mellal are renowned), and
from one generation to the olive groves stretch to the u Bin el-
next, have always been highly horizon. Beetroot and sugarcane Ouidane Dam
venerated by the Beni Meskin have replaced bananas as 43 km (27 miles) southwest of Beni
and Seguibat, local Berber cultivated crops. All are Mellal on road N8, branching left on
tribespeople. In 1785, sultan unusually well watered thanks road R304. n Beni Mellal.
Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah, to the Bin el-Ouidane dam.
who was resentful of this power, South of the town, in the From Beni Mellal the road
razed the town, including lower foothills of the Middle climbs through wooded hills to
the zaouia. The latter was Atlas, a road marked “Circuit reach the grandiose site of an
rebuilt in the 19th century
and is still inhabited by the
saint’s descendants.
The tombs of the saintly
dynasty can be seen around
the market square in the north
of the town. The largest, the
Koubba of Sidi Othman, is
open to visitors. There are
many other mausoleums here,
most notably that of the sheik
Mohammed ech-Cherki, which
is closed to non-Muslims. On
a promontory outside Boujad,
in the direction of Oued Zem
on the northern side of the
town, stand five white koubbas,
to which crowds of pilgrims
come for annual gatherings. The borj of Ras el-Aïn, offering a spectacular view over the Tadla plain
The Bin el-Ouidane reservoir, at the foot of the High Atlas
artificial lake, the Bin el-Ouidane from the top of reddish cliffs, flour. The fig trees and carobs
reservoir. The dam here is 285 m crashing off a succession of that grow beside the path are
(935 ft) long and 133 m (436 ft) rocky ledges to fall into the often full of monkeys – the
high and the reservoir, with a canyon of Wadi el-Abid 100 m beige-coated macaques whose
surface area of 380,000 sq m (328 ft) below. eyes are outlined in black.
(94 acres), is the largest lake in The road to the site leads to Bathing is permitted in the
Morocco. Fed by Wadi el-Abid a spot above the waterfall, natural pools.
and Wadi Ahansalt, it irrigates which can be reached along Starting from the bottom of
the intensively culvitated Tadla a footpath with steps cut into the waterfall, energetic visitors
plain, while the hydroelectric the earth. From platforms set wearing strong walking
generator provides a quarter at intervals on the path, visitors boots can hike to the Wadi
of Morocco’s electricity. The can marvel at the majestic el-Abid gorge.
turquoise waters of the lake, succession of cascades and
which are broken by spits of admire the permanent rainbow Environs
land and small islands, are created by the mist thrown up Six kilometres (4 miles)
surrounded by red hills, and by the water. Mills, whose only southwest of Demnate, on road
the lakeshore is dotted with vestiges are small rectangular R304, is Imi-n-Ifri, a natural bridge
a few isolated houses. recesses, once worked a that has been partly carved out
Watersports and fishing are grindstone on which corn and by the wadi. A track leads down
permitted on the lake and Wadi barley were ground to make to the bottom of the chasm.
el-Abid is suitable for kayaking
and rafting in spring, when the
water level is sufficiently high.
A track leading from the lake
ends at a rock formation known
as La Cathédrale. This rock,
with a covering of red soil and
a setting among Aleppo pines,
is well known to abseilers.
From the dam, Azilal and
the Aït Bouguemez valley (see
pp258–61) can be reached on
road R304.
i Cascades
d’Ouzoud
65 km (40 miles) southwest of
Bin el-Ouidane on road R304, or
156 km (97 miles) from Marrakech
via Demnate. @ for Beni Mellal-
Azilal then grand taxi.
One of the most spectacular

sights in Morocco, the Cascades
d’Ouzoud attract large numbers
of visitors. The waterfall is
particularly impressive in spring,
when the waters pour down The Cascades d’Ouzoud in spring, at their most spectacular
MoRoCCo RegIon By RegIon  227
MARRAKECH
Such is the importance of Marrakech that it gave its name to Morocco.
For more than two centuries, this Berber city at the point of interchange
between the Sahara, the Atlas and the Anti-Atlas was the hub of a
great empire, and the achievements of illustrious builders can be
seen within the city’s walls. It is the capital of the great South
and, although it is now only Morocco’s fourth city after
Casablanca, Fès and Rabat, with a population approaching
a million, its fabulous palaces and luxuriant palm grove
continue to hold a powerful fascination for visitors.
Marrakech was founded in 1062 by Merinids of Fès, and for over 200 years
Almoravids from the Sahara. These warrior Marrakech stagnated. It was not until
monks soon carved out an empire that the 16th century that the city was
stretched from Algiers to Spain. In 1106, reinvigorated by the arrival of the
Ali ben Youssef hired craftsmen from Saadians, most notably by the wealthy
Andalusia to build a palace and a mosque Ahmed el-Mansour. The Saadian Tombs,
in the capital. He also raised ramparts the Ben Youssef Medersa and the
around the city and installed khettaras remains of the Palais el-Badi mark this
(underground canals), an ingenious golden age. In 1668, Marrakech fell to
irrigation system that brought water the Alaouites, who made Fès, then
to its great palm grove. Meknès, their capital.
The Almohads took the city in 1147. In the 20th century, Marrakech
Abd el-Moumen built the Koutoubia, embraced the modern age with the
a masterpiece of Moorish architecture, creation of the Quartier Guéliz, built
and his successor was responsible for during the Protectorate. Visitors continue
building the kasbah. But the Almohad to flock to this magical city, and tourism
dynasty collapsed, to the benefit of the is central to its economy today.
A woman leaving the zaouia of Sidi bel Abbès

The Koutoubia Mosque, the largest mosque in Marrakech
Exploring Marrakech Bab Er

Rharaza
The rich history of Marrakech is reflected in its

various quarters. The medina, above which rises
the minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque, the emblem RU
E
of the city, corresponds to the old town. Place ZAOUIA K
AA
Jemaa el-Fna, the hub of all activity, is its heart. EL ABESSIA

Within the ramparts are the souks (north of
Place Jemaa el-Fna), the kasbah and the mellah R.
(the Jewish quarter). Guéliz, in the northwest, Bab

Taghzout
is the new town laid out by Marshal Lyautey
RU
RIAD AL
E
under the Protectorate. It is filled with Western-
DE
AROUS
style offices, businesses and a residential
BA
IL
Bus
B
OU
area. Avenue Mohammed V is the district’s Station
UT
RUE
main thoroughfare. Extending Guéliz in the
BO
EL
ARSET BEN GZ
southwest is Hivernage, a verdant quarter A
E
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RU
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with many hotels that also dates from the Bab D ERB
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RU
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of the medina.
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Major sight I
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Sights at a Glance
UL
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MO
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GARDENS
OU
E
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Squares and
K
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Historic Quarters Jedid
PLACE
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4 Ben Youssef Medersa
FA
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8 The Souks pp234–5 TACHINE

NA
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0 Place Jemaa el-Fna 7 Bab Doukkala Mosque

BA
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r Mellah 9 Mouassine Mosque MAMOUNIA

SID
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I
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y Kasbah Mosque
N
Historic Buildings MIMOUN

JÉD
3 Chrob ou Chouf Fountain Museums

RU
ID
6 Koubba Ba’Adiyn 5 Musée de Marrakech SIDI ES SOUHEÏLI

E
Bab er
CEMETERY Robb
w La Mamounia Hotel a Dar Si Saïd Museum
DE
e Palais Bahia
Gardens
LA
t Palais el-Badi
u Saadian Tombs s Aguedal Gardens
i Bab Agnaou d Menara
o Dar el-Makhzen g Majorelle Garden
h La Palmeraie
Mosques and Religious
Buildings Bab
Ksiba
1 Zaouia of Sidi bel Abbès
2 Zaouia of Sidi ben
R.
Slimane el-Jazouli
MARRAKECH  229
N9
R N7
N8
O
U
TE
Gueliz
EL
MEC Bab el
HRA Khemis Marrakech MARRAKECH
LEM Bab
RHA N8
S I DI Kechich Hivernage P31
ZAOUIA
SIDI GHALEM
L
OUE
Marrakech-
Menara
ASS
0 km 2
RUE
12
03
R2
R2
RUE
0 mile 1
DE
ASSOUEL Area of Main Map

BA
B
TA
EL
EL MOUKEF
G
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Bab Aylen
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BAB
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Berrima
MELLAH
DU
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Getting Around
AN
The only way to explore

EL
the souks and the medina

AFIA
is on foot. The ramparts and

RU
Berrima
Mosque
most other features of interest
BAB to visitors can be reached by car,
KASBAH HMAR though parking can be difficult. A
KA
AR
OUTER
E BA
B A H M
very pleasant and inexpensive way of
SB
Royal MECHOUAR RUE D

travelling around the city is by yellow
AH
Palace
INNER
MECHOUAR
Bab petit taxi or horse-drawn carriage. It is wise to
er Rih
Bab el
Aghdar
agree in advance the fare for your journey. Petits
taxis and carriages can be hired mainly in Guéliz (on
I Avenue Mohammed V, near the central market and
IR H L
BAB the large hotels) and around Place Jemaa el-Fna,
DE
near the central police station.

South of the zaouia is

the El-Mjadlia Souk, the
Passementerie Souk, built
in a covered alley during the
reign of Sidi Mohammed ben
Abderrahman, at the end of
the 19th century. Going from
here towards the centre of
the medina, you will pass Bab
Taghzout, an Almoravid gate
that has been integrated into
the surrounding architecture.
2 Zaouia of Sidi Interior of the Zaouia of Sidi

ben Slimane ben Slimane
The monumental entrance to the Zaouia of
Sidi bel Abbès
el-Jazouli 3 Chrob ou
1 Zaouia of Sidi
North of the medina (near Rue Dar
el-Glaoui). Closed to non-Muslims.
Chouf Fountain
Rue Amesfah, near the Mosque
bel Abbès Pilgrimage on Fri.
of Ben Youssef.
Sidi bel Abbès quarter (north of the After Bab Taghzout, if you
medina). Closed to non-Muslims.
follow Rue de Bab Taghzout, As its name – meaning “Drink
Pilgrimage on Thu.
then take the first right, and and Admire” – suggests, this
From Bab el-Khemis, Rue Sidi then go right again, you will Saadian fountain is one of the
Rhalem leads to the Zaouia of reach this zaouia, which also most beautiful in the medina.
Sidi bel Abbès. The sanctuary is features in the Regraga pilgrimage It was built during the reign
a focal point for the pilgrimage (see p42). The mausoleum dates of Ahmed el-Mansour (1578–
of the Regraga (the Seven from the Saadian period and 1603), and it is shaded by a
Saints), which was instituted was remodelled in the late carved cedar awning with
by Moulay Ismaïl so as to obtain 18th century during the coloured zellij tilework and
forgiveness for his depredations reign of Sidi Mohammed inscriptions in cursive and Kufic
in Marrakech. ben Abdallah. script engraved into the wood.
Sidi bel Abbès (1130– Sidi Mohammed ben In a town like Marrakech,
1205) is the city’s most Slimane el-Jazouli, another located at the head of pre-
highly venerated patron venerated mystic, founded Saharan valleys, water was
saint. A disciple of the famous Moroccan Sufism in the 15th a very precious commodity.
Cadi Ayad, he devoted his century. Under the Wattasids, An underground network of
life to preaching and to caring this religion spread to every channels supplied the mosques
for and defending the weak level of the population. A and the houses and fed the
and the blind. Because of him, champion of the holy war against fountains. Obeying the precepts
it was said throughout the Portuguese and a politically of the Koran, according to
Morocco that Marrakech was influential figure, this holy man which water must be given to
the only city where a blind attracted thousands of followers; the thirsty, many of the leading
man could eat his fill. To this his reputedly occult powers citizens of Marrakech financed
day, the gifts of pilgrims are even worried the sultan. the building of fountains.
distributed to the poor and
the blind.
In 1605, the Saadian
sultan Abou Faris raised a
mausoleum for the saint in
the hope of curing his epilepsy.
Moulay Ismaïl added a dome
in the 18th century and the
mausoleum was given its
present appearance by Sidi
Mohammed ben Abdallah
a few years later.
The zaouia also includes
a mosque, a hammam, a
home for the blind, a small
market, an abattoir and
a cemetery. Detail of the cedar awning over the Chrob ou Chouf Fountain
MARRAKECH  231
The Ramparts of Marrakech

Skirting the Guéliz and Hivernage quarters on their eastern side, the ramparts
completely encircle the medina. From the time of its foundation, Marrakech was
defended by sturdy walls set with forts. Although their outline has hardly altered from
the time of the Almoravids, they were extended to the south by the Almohads and
to the north by the Saadians in the 16th century. These pisé walls are 19 km (12 miles)
long, up to 2 m (6 ft) thick and up to 9 m (30 ft) high. Some of the monumental gates
that pierce them are very fine examples of Moorish architecture. The best time to walk
around the ramparts is in the early morning or just before sunset. Their warm ochre
colour changes according to the time of day and the intensity of the light. In the
evening, they take on an almost rust-coloured hue.
The Gates
Bab Aghmat and Bab Aylen, on
the eastern side of the ramparts,
date from the 12th century, and are
relatively plain. Bab ed-Debbagh,
dating from the same period,
opens onto the tanners’ quarter.
On the northern side stands Bab
el-Khemis and on the southern, Bab
el-Robb (1308). The latter takes its
name from a grape liqueur in which
the city once did a brisk trade. Bab
el-Jedid, on the western side, leads
to La Mamounia hotel (see p238).
Bab el-Khemis was remodelled after
the Almoravid period (1147–1269). An
open-air market is held outside the gate
on Thursdays. The tomb of the Seven
Saints is a small dome-topped building
dedicated to a marabout.
These lower pisé walls, which are just high enough to close
a harem off from a house or a garden, or to shield a sanctuary
from prying eyes, were not built for defensive purposes.
Bab Agnaou (see p243), whose
name is derived from the Berber
for “hornless black ram”, is one of
the finest gates in Marrakech. It
is carved in an ochre stone with
tinges of pink. It once led into
the Almohad palace.
The ramparts of Marrakech, which

date from the 12th century, are the
most impressive city walls in
Morocco. The well-preserved
defences encircle the old town, with
its palaces and gardens.
the Koran in calligraphic script and

is lit by 24 windows decorated
with a tracery of plasterwork.
5 Musée de
Marrakech
Place ben Youssef. Tel (0524) 44 18 93.
Open 9am– 6:30pm daily. &
This museum is laid out in the

Dar Menebhi, a palace built at
the end of the 19th century
by the grand vizier of Sultan
Moulay Mehdi Hassan. The
building is in the style of a
Zellij tilework in the Ben Youssef Medersa traditional Moorish house.
The decorated door – which,
4 Ben Youssef Covering an area of some as in many Moorish houses,
Medersa 1,720 sq m (18,514 sq ft), this is the only opening in the
harmoniously proportioned otherwise featureless external
Place ben Youssef (in the medina). medersa appears as it was walls – leads through to an
Tel (0524) 43 61 31/43 62 39. originally designed, with no open courtyard with zellij
later alteration. The dome, tilework and three marble
decorated with exquisite basins in the centre. The
This Koranic school is not only stalactites within, can be courtyard gives access to
one of the finest but also one of seen from the street. The the rooms on the ground
the largest in the Maghreb, with main entrance, a bronze door and upper floors.
a capacity for up to 900 students. topped by a carved cedar lintel, The museum’s collection is
It was founded by opens onto a mosaic-paved displayed in two wings. One
the Merinid sultan corridor, which contains contemporary art,
Abou el-Hassan in turn leads to Orientalist paintings and a
in the mid-14th the courtyard. series of original engravings
century, and was This masterpiece of Moroccan subjects.
rebuilt by the of Moorish The second wing contains
Saadian sultan design is paved a rather haphazard display of
Moulay Abdallah with white objects: coins from the Idrissid
in the 16th century. marble and has period of the 9th century to
This fact is recorded an ablutions pool that of the Alaouites in the
by the inscriptions in the centre. present day; illuminated copies
carved into the The walls are of the Koran, including a
lintel above the decorated with 12th-century Chinese example
entrance, together zellij tilework and a 19th-century book of Sufi
with the date, 1564. below and prayers; southern Moroccan
The medersa Bronze door of the Ben carved plaster jewellery; Tibetan dress, 17th-
takes its name from Youssef Medersa above. A double and 18th-century ceramics;
the Almoravid tier of galleries and some fine decorated
mosque of Ali ben Youssef to supported on thick columns Berber doors.
which it was once attached. For lines both sides of the court-
four centuries this mosque was yard. The students’ cells on
the focal point of worship in the the ground and upper floors
medina, and with the medersa it opened onto the courtyard.
constituted an important centre Those that are arranged around
of religion. seven smaller interior courtyards
Architecturally, and with its are shielded from daylight.
sumptous decoration, it is on a A magnificently ornate
par with the Merinid medersas, doorway leads through to the
particularly the Bou Inania large prayer hall. The room is
Medersa of Fès (see pp176–7). By crowned by a pyramidal cedar
building it, Moulay Abdallah was dome and divided into three by
expressing his desire to restore marble columns with capitals
to Marrakech the prestige of an with calligraphy praising
imperial capital and simultaneously Moulay Abdallah. The mihrab Zellij tilework in the courtyard of the
to affirm his devotion to Allah. is decorated with verses from Musée de Marrakech
MARRAKECH  233
Averroës
Born in Córdoba in 1126, Averroës (Ibn Rushd) was one of the
most renowned Muslim scholars of his day. Like other men of
learning at the time, his knowledge encompassed medicine,
law, philosophy, astronomy and theology. Born into an important
Cordoban family, he was the grandson of an imam at the Great
Mosque in Granada. Under the patronage of Abou Yacoub Youssef,
Averroës divided his time between Seville,
Córdoba and Marrakech. He took the
place of his friend and teacher, the
famous physician Abubacer (Ibn Tufayl).
Basing his approach on his own reading
The Koubba Ba’Adiyn, the only vestige of of Aristotle, he promoted a rationalist,
the Almoravid mosque rather than an esoteric, interpretation
of the Koran. This brought him
6 Koubba Ba’Adiyn condemnation from Córdoba.
Place ben Youssef. Tel (0524) 43 61 31/ However, he was soon rehabilitated
43 62 39. Open 9am–6pm daily. & by the Almohad ruler Yacoub
el-Mansour, who gave him asylum
This brick-built dome is the in Marrakech until his death in Averroës, the great 12th-century
only example of Almoravid December 1198. philosopher
architecture in Marrakech.
Built by Ali ben Youssef in
1106, originally it formed part of Marrakech (see p61), at the to the Koutoubia Mosque
of a richly decorated mosque beginning of the 20th century. (see pp240–41) and the Kasbah
that was demolished by While one part of the build- Mosque (see p242).
the Almohads. Miraculously ing contains a library, another The minaret, which is
spared, the rectangular is used to receive heads of crowned by a gallery with
pavilion was rediscovered in state during official visits. merlons, is of strikingly
1948. It contained an ablutions The palace has several simple design. The adjacent
pool fed by three reservoirs. beautifully decorated court- Mouassine Fountain consists
While the exterior is decorated yards lined with zellij tilework, of three large drinking troughs
with chevrons and pointed stuccowork, painted wood for animals and a fourth
arches in relief, the interior and muqarnas (stalactites). for people. The fountain is
is graced by scalloped and It also features a fine enclosed within a portico
horseshoe arches and floral Andalusian garden planted with decorative stuccowork
ornamentation. These elements with fruit trees. The palace and carved wooden lintels.
anticipate the full-blown is reputed to have
artistic creativity of been the venue
Islamic architecture. for some wild and
extravagant parties.
7 Bab Doukkala
Mosque 8 The Souks
Rue de Bab Doukkala. See pp234–5.
Dar el-Glaoui: Closed to visitors.
This place of worship was built 9 Mouassine

in the mid-16th century by the Mosque
mother of the Saadian ruler Mouassine Quarter.
Ahmed el-Mansour. Its slender Closed to non-Muslims.
minaret, crowned by four
golden orbs, and its refined The Saadian sultan
decoration are reminiscent of Moulay Abdallah
the Kasbah Mosque (see p242). established this place
Next to the building stands an of worship, which was
ornate fountain with a bowl built between 1562
surmounted by three domes. and 1573 on what is
From here, Rue de Bab thought to be a former
Doukkala, going towards the Jewish quarter. Its
centre of the medina, leads to design as well as
Dar el-Glaoui, the palace built its decoration bear
by El-Glaoui, the famous pasha certain similarities Dar el-Glaoui, palace of the popular pasha, El-Glaoui
8 The Souks
The souks of Marrakech are among the most fascinating in Key
the Maghreb. Arranged according to the type of goods on Historic souk
offer, they are laid out in the narrow streets north and east Historic monuments
of Place Jemaa el-Fna. On the map shown here, the area
H
marked in orange denotes the historic heart of the souks, FA
ES
AM
which stretches from the Ben Youssef Mosque in the north E
U
to the Souk Smarine in the south. Many of the souks are R
known by the name of whatever is sold here. Today a very
wide range of goods, from fabric to jewellery and slippers,
is on offer. Leatherwork is particularly prominent. Around this
NE
commercial hub are the crafts traditionally associated with
SSI
country people, such as blacksmithing, saddle-making
UA
and basketry. Because of rank odours, the tanneries are
MO
banished to the edge of the city.
R.D
EB
A B
DO
UK
KA
LA
Souk Addadine RUE
(metalwork)
Amid a deafening clatter,
brass and copper
workers tirelessly
hammer hot metal,
shaping it into a range
of everyday items such
as trays, ashtrays, lanterns,
wrought-iron grilles,
locks and keys.
Mouassine
Souk Chouari Mosque
(basketry and
woodturning)
The chouari is the
double pannier
MOUASSINE
that is put on the

backs of donkeys.
These baskets
are woven from
palm fibre.
R
OU
RINE
KS
RUE EL
SMA
K ELU
RUE SO
RUE
PLACE DE
BAB FTEUH
Dyers’ Souk 0 metres 100

Skeins of wool or silk, freshly dyed and still wet, are hung
out to dry in the sun and warm air. 0 yards 100

MARRAKECH  235
Souk Smata (slippers and belts)

The craftsmen of Marrakech are
master-leatherworkers. The craft of
leatherworking is said to have
Place Jemaa el-Fna (via Rue du
originated in the city.
Souk Smarine or Bab Doukkala).
A petit taxi or horse-drawn
carriage can be taken as far as
NE
the entrance to the souks, which

IEN
must be explored on foot.

Open 9am–7pm daily.
OUD
Closed noon–4pm Fri.

BAR
Ben Youssef Ben Youssef

Mosque Medersa
RUE
Kissarias
Clothing, fabric,
Musée de
leather goods
Marrakech and passemen-
Koubba
Ba’Adiyn terie are on sale
in these lit and
covered galleries.
This was once
where the most
highly prized
goods, some of
them imported,
were sold.
R
EBI
L K
K E
SOU
RUE
RAHBA Souk el-Btana (skins)

KEDIMA
Thousands of skins for use in leatherwork are sold
in the skinners’ souk.
KEY
1 Souk Smarine (clothing) 8 Souk Zarbia (the

Criée Berbère, the main
2 Souk Atarin (brass and
carpet market)
copper)
9 Souk El-Maazi
3 Souk El-Bradiia
(goatskins)
(pitchers)
0 Rahba Kedima, “Old
4 Souk Kimakhin
Square” is where magicians
(stringed instruments)
and healers buy their supplies,
5 Souk Siyyaghin and country people sell fruit,
(jewellery) vegetables and live chickens.
6 Souk Fakharin q Former slave market
7 Souk El-Kebir
(leatherwork)
achieved a pleasing mix of

Art Deco and Moorish styles.
Many famous people, including
Winston Churchill and Richard
Nixon, have stayed here. The
Mamounia reopened in 2009
following renovations.
e Palais Bahia
Riad Zitoun Jedid (medina).
Tel (0524) 38 91 79.
Open 9am–4:30pm daily. &
This palace, whose name

means “Palace of the Favourite”,
was built by two powerful
Stall-holders and shoppers on bustling Place Jemaa el-Fna grand viziers – Si Moussa, vizier
of Sultan Sidi Mohammed ben
0 Place Jemaa q Koutoubia Abderrahman, and his son
el-Fna Mosque Ba Ahmed, vizier of Moulay
Abdelaziz – at the end of
East of Gueliz (off the southern See pp240–41. the 19th century.
extremity of Avenue Mohammed V). The palace complex consists
For centuries, this unique and of two parts, each built at
extraordinary square has been w La Mamounia different times. The older part,
the nerve centre of Marrakech Hotel built by Si Moussa, contains
and the symbol of the city. Avenue Bab el-Jedid. Tel (0524) 38 86
apartments arranged around
Although it is in fact no more 00. See also p311. a marble-paved courtyard. It
than an irregular space devoid also has an open courtyard
of a harmonious ensemble of Opened in 1923, the legend- with cypresses, orange trees
buildings, it is of interest to ary hotel La Mamounia stands and jasmine, with two star-
visitors mainly because it is on the site of a residence that, shaped pools.
a showcase of traditional in the 18th century, belonged The newer part, built by Ba
Morocco. UNESCO has declared to the son of the Alaouite Ahmed, is a huge palace
it a World Heritage Site. sultan Sidi Mohammed. All without a unified plan. It
It has a gruesome past: until that remains of that residence consists of luxurious apartments
the 19th century, criminals on is the magnificent 130,000-sq- looking onto courtyards
whom the death sentence had m (32-acre) garden, planted planted with trees. So as to
been passed were beheaded with olive and orange trees make it easier for the obese
here. Sometimes up to 45 and containing a pavilion master of the house to move
people were executed on a that was probably built by around, almost all the
single day, their heads pickled a Saadian ruler in the apartments were located
and suspended from the 16th century. on the ground floor. The
city gates. The original hotel was main courtyard is paved with
No traces are left of this today. designed by Henri Prost marble and zellij tilework. It is
A large market is held in the and Antoine Marchisio, who surrounded by a gallery of
mornings, and medicinal plants,
freshly squeezed orange juice
as well as all kinds of nuts and
confectionery are sold.
From sunset, the life and
bustle on the square reaches
its peak. It becomes the arena
of a gigantic, multifaceted
open-air show. As the air fills
with smoke from grilling meat
and the aroma of spices, the
square fills with musicians,
dancers, storytellers, showmen,
tooth-pullers, fortune-tellers
and snake-charmers, who
each draw a crowd of
astonished onlookers. The entrance to the hotel La Mamounia (see p311)
Tourists at the Medersa Ben Youssef, the old Islamic school
MARRAKECH  239
the Middle Atlas. The

museum is close to
another museum, the
Dar Si Saïd (see pp244–5).
P Bert Flint Museum

8 Rue de la Bahia, Riad Zitoun
Jedid. Tel (0524) 38 91 92.
Open 9am–12:30pm & 2:30–
6pm daily. &
r Mellah
East of Palais el-Badi and south
of Palais Bahia.
Door opening onto a narrow street in the
Once accommodating mellah of Marrakech
some 16,000 inhabitants,
the former Jewish quarter Portuguese at the Battle of
of Marrakech was the the Three Kings on 4 August
largest mellah in Morocco 1578 (see p56), Ahmed
until the country’s el-Mansour, “the Golden”,
independence. Previously ordered a luxurious palace
Beautiful arch leading to Palais Bahia located on what became to be built near his private
the site of the Mouassine apartments. It was to be used
finely fluted columns, while Mosque, the mellah was for receptions and audiences
three fountains with bowls established in the mid-16th with foreign embassies. Its
stand in the centre. This century by the Saadian sultan construction was financed
courtyard, once used by the Moulay Abdallah, and it was by the Portuguese whom
viziers’ concubines, faces almost identical to the mellah in he had defeated in battle,
the main reception room. It Fès (see p186). Until 1936, it was and work continued until his
has a cedar ceiling painted with surrounded by a wall pierced death in 1603.
arabesques. The decoration of by two gates, one opening El-Badi, “the Incomparable”,
the palace apartments and east onto the cemetery and is one of the 99 names of
of the council chamber is the other leading into the city. Allah. For a time, the palace
equally splendid. The jewellers’ souk is held was indeed considered to
Ba Ahmed hired the best opposite the Palais Bahia. be one of the wonders of the
craftsmen in the kingdom Muslim world. Italian marble,
to build and decorate this Irish granite, Indian onyx
palace. It is decked out with t Palais el-Badi and coverings of gold leaf
highly prized materials, Hay Salam, Rue Berrima.
decorated the walls and the
such as marble from Meknès, Open 9am–4:45pm daily. & ceilings of the 360 rooms.
cedar from the Middle Atlas In 1683, Moulay Ismaïl
and tiles from Tetouan. Not Five months after acceding demolished the Palais el-Badi
surprisingly, Marshal Lyautey to the throne, Ahmed el- and salvaged the materials to
chose to live here during Mansour decided to consolidate embellish his own imperial
the Protectorate. his rule and banish the memory city of Meknès (see p196).
Maison Tiskiwin, at No. 8 of earlier dynasties. Having Today, all that remains of the
Rue de la Bahia, houses the emerged victorious over the palace are empty rooms.
Bert Flint Museum. This
charming residence with a
courtyard is an example of
a traditional 19th-century
Marrakech house. Here, Bert
Flint, a Dutch anthropologist
who fell in love with Morocco
and settled here in the 1950s,
amassed a collection of folk
art and artifacts from the
Souss valley and the Saharan
region (see pp287–99). Exhibits
include jewellery and daggers
from the Anti-Atlas, pottery
from the Rif and carpets from The remains of the Palais el-Badi, built in the 16th century
q Koutoubia Mosque
In about 1147, to mark his victory over the Almoravids, the
Almohad sultan Abd el-Moumen set about building one of
the largest mosques in the Western Muslim world. The minaret,
a masterpiece of Islamic architecture, was completed during the
reign of Yacoub el-Mansour, grandson of Abd el-Moumen. It later
served as the model for the Giralda in Seville, as well as for the
Hassan Tower in Rabat (see pp78–9). The “Booksellers’ Mosque” takes
its name from the manuscripts souk that once took place around
it. The interior of the minaret contains a ramp used to carry building
materials up to the summit. The mosque has been restored to
reveal the original pink colour of the brickwork.
. Minaret
This splendid tower in
pink Gueliz stone stands
like a sentinel above the
city. It is 70 m (230 ft) high
and its proportions obey
the canons of Almohad
architecture: its height
equals five times its width.
Detail of the East Side

of the Minaret
Each side of the minaret has
Entrance to the Koutoubia Courtyard a different decorative scheme.
This restrained and simple entrance Common to all, with variations,
follows the design of most gateways are floral motifs, inscriptions,
to important Moroccan buildings: bands of moulded terracotta
a horseshoe arch with and, as here, windows with
moulded arcature. festooned arches.
MARRAKECH  241
West View of the Minaret

The minaret is the highest
building in the city and it stands
as a landmark for many miles
Place de la Koutoubia.
around. Only Muslims may enjoy
n (0524) 43 61 31/79.
the unforgettable view from the
top of the building.
Eastern Entrance to
the Prayer Hall
This is the main
entrance for the faithful.
The design of the
doorway is relatively
plain, with minimal
ornamentation.
KEY
1 The interior of the minaret

contains six superimposed rooms.
2 Denticulate merlons
3 Four gilt-bronze spheres
surmount the lantern.
4 Roof of green tiles
5 Courtyard and pool
6 The interior of the mosque
consists of 16 parallel aisles of equal
width bisected by a wider nave.
7 The original mosque was
superseded by another, built on
the orders of the Almohad ruler
Abd el-Moumen. This was because
the qibla wall of the earlier mosque
was not accurately oriented towards
. Prayer Hall This can accommodate some 20,000 faithful. The Mecca. Its foundations can still
white columns supporting horseshoe arches and the braided be seen today.
pattern of the floor create a striking perspective.
u Saadian Tombs
Rue de la Kasbah. n (0524) 43 61 31.
Open 9am–noon & 2:30–
6pm daily. &
Although they were neglected

for more than two centuries, the
tombs of the Saadian dynasty
constitute some of the finest
examples of Islamic architecture
in Morocco. Their style is
in complete contrast to the
simplicity of Almohad archi-
tecture, as the Saadian princes
lavished on funerary architec-
ture the same ostentation Mausoleum of Ahmed el-Mansour, with
Detail of the minaret of the and magnificence that they marble-columned mihrab
Kasbah Mosque gave to other buildings.
A necropolis existed here mausoleums which are set in
y Kasbah Mosque during the Almohad period a garden planted with flowers
Rue de la Kasbah, near Bab Agnaou. (1145–1248), continuing in symbolizing Allah’s paradise.
Closed to non-Muslims. use during the reign of the The central mausoleum is
Merinid sultan Abou el-Hassan that of Ahmed el-Mansour
Built by Yacoub el-Mansour (1331–51). The Saadian Tombs (1578–1603). It consists of
(1184–99), the Kasbah Mosque themselves date from the late three funerary rooms laid out
is the only other Almohad 16th to the 18th centuries. Out to a plan reminiscent of that
building besides Bab Agnaou of respect for the dead, and of the Rawda in Granada.
to survive in Marrakech. Its even though he had been at The first room is a prayer hall
distinctive minaret, a beautiful pains to erase all traces of his divided into three aisles by
stone and brick construction predecessors, the Alaouite white marble columns. The
in shades of ochre, was used sultan Moulay Ismaïl raised a mihrab is decorated with
as a model by later builders. wall round the main entrance. stalactites and framed by
Successive remodelling in the It was not until 1917 that the a pointed horseshoe arch
16th and 17th centuries has tombs were made accessible to supported by grey marble
robbed the mosque of its the public. They consist of two pilasters. The prayer hall is
original appearance. Even so,
it is not without interest.
Built to a rectangular plan,
77m (253 ft) long by 71 m
(233 ft) wide, the mosque
consists of a prayer hall and
five interior courtyards
separated by arcades. The
80-m (263-ft) long façade is
topped by crenellations and
denticulate merlons. According
to Almohad custom, the minaret
is devoid of ornamentation
up to the height of the walls.
Above this, it has restrained
decoration and is crowned by
an attractive terracotta frieze.
Turquoise tiles moulded with
a magnificent pattern of
interlaced lozenges almost
completely cover the four
faces of the minaret.
Two-fifths of the tower are
taken up by the lantern, which
is crowned by three spheres.
These are made of brass, but
legend has it that they are made
of gold, hence their popular
name, the Golden Apples. Ornate capitals on the columns in the Saadian Tombs
MARRAKECH  243
lit by the three windows of the

lantern, which rests on a cedar
base decorated with inscriptions.
The central room, a great
masterpiece of Moorish architec-
ture, is crowned by a remarkable
dome with stalactites. Of carved
cedar with gold-leaf decoration,
it is supported by 12 columns
of Carrara marble. The walls are
completely covered – the lower
part by a graceful interlacing
pattern of glazed tiles, and
the upper part by a profusion
of stuccowork.
In the centre of the room
lie Ahmed el-Mansour and his Bab Agnaou, the royal entrance to the old Almohad palace
successors. The ivory-coloured
marble tombstones are covered tinges of red meld with well as outbuildings and several
with arabesques and inscriptions tones of greyish-blue. pavilions (menzah) set in the
arranged on two levels: above The sculpted façade park. The palace is still a royal
are verses from the Koran, and consists of alternating layers residence today.
below a framed epitaph in verse. of stone and brick surrounding
The third room, known as the a horseshoe arch. The floral
Hall of the Three Niches, has an motifs in the cornerpieces p Méchouars
equally sumptuous decorative and the frieze with Kufic Near Dar el-Makhzen.
scheme. It contains the tombs script framing the arch are
of young princes. unusually delicate. Dar el-Makhzen has three
The second mausoleum, a This is another example of large parade grounds, known
green-roofed building, has more the sober, monochrome style as méchouars. where royal
modest proportions. It consists of decoration that is typical of ceremonies are held.
of a room with two loggias and Almohad architecture and that The inner méchouar,
a prayer hall. A cedar lintel carved gives the gate a dignified and located south of the palace,
with inscriptions links the columns majestic appearance. is connected to it by Bab
of the loggias. In the prayer hall, el-Akhdar and is linked to the
the dome hung with stalactites Aguedal Gardens. The outer
is a splendid sight. o Dar el-Makhzen méchouar, east of the palace,
In the burial chamber the Southeast of the Saadian Tombs.
is connected to the Berrima
tomb of Lalla Messaouda, Closed to the public. quarter by Bab el-Harri. The
mother of Ahmed “the Golden”, large méchouar south of the
who died in 1591, fills a When Sidi Mohammed ben inner méchouar is outlined
honeycombed niche. Abdallah arrived in Marrakech by a wall set with merlons.
in the 18th century, he found
the Almohad and Saadian
i Bab Agnaou palaces in a state of ruin. On
Rue de la Kasba, opposite the
an extensive area within the
Kasbah Mosque. kasbah that he enclosed within
bastioned walls, he ordered a
Like its twin, Bab Oudaïa royal palace, Dar el-Makhzen,
in Rabat (see pp72–3), this to be built, next to the ruins of
monumental gate was built the Palais el-Badi.
by Yacoub el-Mansour. Its Sidi Mohammed’s building
name means “hornless black project is notable because,
ram” in Berber. unlike the design of other
Protected by Bab el-Robb (see palaces in Marrakech, it took
p231), the outer defensive gate, into account the perspective
Bab Agnaou marked the main and dimensions of the terrain.
entrance to the Almohad palace, Restored countless times,
and its function was thus Dar el-Makhzen consists of
primarily decorative. several groups of buildings:
Although the gate no longer the Green Palace (el-Qasr
has its two towers, the façade el-Akhdar), the Nile Garden
still makes for an impressive (Gharsat el-Nil) and the main Procession gathering on one of the
sight. In the carved sandstone house (el-Dar el-Kubra), as méchouars at Dar el-Makhzen
a Dar Si Saïd Museum

A stone’s throw from the Palais Bahia (see pp238–9) is the
contemporary Dar Si Saïd. This delightful palace, now a
museum, was built in the late 19th century by Si Saïd ben
Moussa, brother of Ba Ahmed and a vizier of Moulay Abdel
Aziz. Consisting of zellij tilework, intricate plasterwork and
carved or painted wooden domes, the decoration alone is
worth the visit.
jewellery illustrating the skill of

The Palace the craftsmen and women of
Following Islamic tradition, southern Morocco, particularly
the palace is enclosed within of the High Atlas, the Tafilalt,
solid walls and consists of a the Anti-Atlas, the Souss
two-storey central building and the Tensift. Detail of the door of the
arranged around courtyards Also on display are a few reception room
with graceful arcades. It also archaeological pieces and
has an Andalusian garden, architectural fragments from (fortified villages). These
with a pavilion and fountain Fès. The museum’s collections unusual and finely worked
in the centre. are laid out thematically on doors consist of a single panel
The sumptuous Reception three levels. of oak, almond wood, poplar
Room on the upper floor is a or walnut. Some of them are
jewel of Moorish design. The decorated with applied relief
cedar dome and the walls, with Doors and Carriages patterns of wood cut to
zellij tilework and a stuccowork Entry to the geometrical
frieze, are a mesmerizing sight. museum is shapes. Others
The room contains a wooden through an are decorated
candelabrum, a cedar sofa imposing door with engraved
and benches covered with studded with or painted
colourful fabric. From the nails and fitted motifs. As these
topmost floor there is a view with locks. A map Marble basin for ritual ablutions doors were made
over the medina and towards at the entrance by craftsmen
the High Atlas. shows the geographical working in isolation in a rural
location of the main centres environment, they are unique
of craft production in pieces, each one different
The Collections southern Morocco. from the next.
Converted into a museum in 1932, Arranged along the walls At the end of the corridor
Dar Si Saïd houses a fine collection are a cedar chest and some a splendid basin for ritual
of carpets, doors, chests, weapons, interesting old doors from ablutions is on display. The
ceramics, costumes and the region’s kasbahs and ksour basin was carved from a
single block of marble in
Andalusia in the late 10th
or early 11th century. The
decoration features three tiers
of ornament: floral motifs,
four-legged creatures and
heraldic eagles.
The next room contains a
display of antique children’s
carriages and swings.
Jewellery
Located to the left of the
entrance, the room in which
jewellery is displayed holds a
collection of headdresses
typical of southern Morocco
as well as earrings, diadems,
finger rings, necklaces, fibulas
The pavilion and fountain of the riad (Andalusian garden) (pin-like brooches), bracelets
MARRAKECH  245
and anklets. These pieces various dishes. These VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

are engraved, inlaid with pieces, most of which
niello (a black compound) or are made of terracotta, Practical Information
enamelled, and are set with have incised, relief or Riad Zitoune Jedid. Tel (0524) 38
polished gems, shells, coral, painted decoration. 95 64. Open 9am–4:30pm
amber or coins. Two major regional Wed–Mon. &
Geometric shapes such types of pottery can be
as rectangles, triangles, seen in this room. One is
lozenges, circles, crosses from Safi (see p122), a such as teapots and combs.
and zigzags are the continuation of the Certain motifs are based on
principal Berber motifs. Fassi tradition and tribal tattoos.
Some have a symbolic characterized by The more unusual figure of
meaning: for example, restrained polychrome a horseman was brought from
motifs arranged in decoration, often the Sudan by slaves who worked
sets of five refer to on a white ground. in local plantations.
the fingers of one The other is from
hand, symbolizing Tamegroute (see p273),
life, creativity and south of Zagora, Woodwork
representing a typified by glazed The interesting collection of
lucky charm. Silver pendant from monochrome woodwork displayed in the
Arabesques and floral the Tafilalt ware in which second courtyard includes
motifs, by contrast, green predominates. house doors, house frontages
belong to the Moorish canon and delicate mashrabiyya
of decorative motifs. (screenwork), some of it painted
Mastered by Jewish Carpets in bright colours. These
metalworkers, these various The upper floor is devoted to architectural elements, most of
styles led to the creation of village carpets, most notably them carved in cedar, originate
jewellery inspired both by those from the Tensift and from old houses and shops in
city and rural traditions. Boujad. The display includes Marrakech. The beautiful pieces
antique carpets and thick in wood and marble dating
woollen blankets (hanbel) in from the Saadian period (16th
which madder-red predominates. century) are not to be missed.
The latter are loosely woven
so as to retain more warmth.
The display continues in
the second courtyard with
carpets from the High Atlas.
These include Glaoui and
Cedar dome on the ceiling of the Ouaouzguite carpets, which
reception room are both embroidered, woven
and knotted and which feature
bright colours. Carpets from
Pottery Chichaoua, with a red or
The room on the right of the rosewood background, display
entrance contains a display a variety of motifs: geometric
of everyday objects consisting patterns including zigzags,
mostly of pottery from Amizmiz, chevrons and squares; animal
stone oil lamps from Taroudannt, motifs depictings snakes,
amphorae, pitchers, storage jars, scorpions and camels; and motifs
churns, cooking pots and derived from everyday objects A room in the richly decorated
former palace
Gallery Guide
The building has three storeys. The exhibition rooms on the Costume
ground floor open onto the riad. Beyond the entrance, large-scale The corridor leading to the
pieces such as wooden doors and chests are displayed. To the left exit contains a display of
of the entrance is the jewellery room, and on the right of it are boots and burnouses worn
displays of everyday objects. Next comes the pottery room. The by the shepherds of the Siroua
room at the far end of the garden contains objects made of brass mountains. Made of black
and copper, and in the second courtyard is a display of wool, they are decorated with
woodwork. The reception room is on the first floor while village motifs worked in cotton or in
carpets can be seen on the second floor. The corridor leading to silk. Such garments are still
the exit displays the traditional costume of the Ouzguita tribe. worn today, although the
workmanship is less refined.
d Menara
Avenue de la Ménara (west of
Hivernage). Open 8am–6pm
daily. &
A welcome haven of coolness

and shade, this imperial
garden, covering almost 90 ha
(220 acres) and enclosed within
pisé walls, is filled mostly with
olive and fruit trees. In the
12th century, an enormous
pool was dug in the centre
of the garden to serve as a
reservoir for the Almohad
sultans. In the 19th century,
Moulay Abderrahman
refurbished the garden and
built the pavilion with a
green-tiled pyramidal roof.
This attractive building was
used by the sultans for their
romantic meetings. It is said
that every morning one of
them would toss into the water
the concubine that he had
chosen the night before. The
ground floor is fronted by three
The pool and pavilion in the Menara imperial garden arches opening onto the pool.
The upper floor has a large
s Aguedal Gardens Alaouite sultans Moulay balustered balcony
Rue Bab Ahmar. Reached via the outer
Abderrahman and on its north side.
méchouar near Bab Ighli. Open daily. Sidi Mohammed ben Although the
Abdallah restored interior decoration
This vast enclosed space, 3 km the gardens and is plain, the building’s
(2 miles) long and 1.5 km the pavilions. So as overall conception
(1 mile) wide, contains an to provide irrigation, and location are
orchard planted with lemon, they also diverted remarkable, and the
orange, apricot and olive trees. the course of Wadi view from any point
The historic gardens were Ourika. Gates were within, with the
laid out in the second half also built into the peaks of the Atlas as
of the 12th century by the surrounding wall. a backdrop, is quite
Almoravids, who also installed While the public Pavilion window in unforgettable.
two large irrigation pools have free access to the Aguedal Gardens
connected by khettaras, or gardens, the pavilions,
underground channels (see on the northern side, are f Guéliz
pp280–81). Enlarged and for the exclusive use of the
Northwest of the medina.
embellished by the Almohads, king’s guests. Dar el-Hana, the
and later by the Saadians, the largest pool, located south Established during the
gardens were then completely of the garden, dates from the Protectorate, Guéliz is the
neglected until the 19th Almohad period. The terrace Ville Nouvelle (New Town).
century. At that time the of the small Saadian pavilion Taking its name from the
that stands next to it hill that rises above it, this
commands stunning commercial district was
views in two designed by Henri Prost. It
opposite directions: has a spacious layout in
northwards across line with the principles of
olive groves and the modern town planning.
city rising in tiers to The wide avenues, municipal
the hill of Jbilet, and gardens, large hotels and cafés
southwards to the with shady terraces make
serene and distant Guéliz a pleasant quarter to
snowcapped peaks visit. Avenue Mohammed V,
One of the many orange trees in the Aguedal Gardens of the High Atlas. which runs between Guéliz
MARRAKECH  247
and the medina, is lined with

offices, banks, restaurants,
Jacques Majorelle
bars, pavement cafés and The painter Jacques Majorelle
chic shops. was born in Nancy, in northeastern
Despite the number of France, in 1886. The son of the
modern buildings, a few renowned cabinet-maker Louis
vestiges of the European Majorelle, one of the leading figures
architecture introduced by the of the École de Nancy, he was raised
French remain. A notable Villa Majorelle, the painter’s in the artistic milieu of Art Nouveau.
example of this style, known as residence in Marrakech He seemed destined to follow in
“Mauresque”, is the Renaissance his father’s footsteps. However, after
Café, on Place Abdel Moumen studying at the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris, Majorelle decided to
ben Ali. It is decorated in devote himself to painting. He travelled to Spain, Italy and Egypt.
typical 1950s style and has a Recovering from health problems, he went to Morocco in 1919 and
dining area on the top floor fell in love with its intense light. Aided by Marshal Lyautey, he settled in
with panoramic views. Marrakech, in his now-famous villa. Finding fascination in the souks,
A large municipal fresh kasbahs and villages of the High Atlas, he stayed in Morocco until
produce market takes place his death in 1962.
every day in Place du 16
Novembre. It is worth visiting
the market to take in the lively garden. In 1931, at Majorelle’s h La Palmeraie
atmosphere as local shoppers request, the architect Sinoir On the road to Casablanca, 22 km
purchase their fresh fruit, built an Art Deco studio with (14 miles) north of Marrakech. This
vegetables, herbs and spices. pergolas and bright blue walls. interesting tour, 22.5 km (14 miles)
The garden, which is separate long, can be made by car or horse-
from the house, opened to the drawn carriage.
public in 1947.
The house was later bought Legend has it that, after eating
by Yves Saint-Laurent, the dates brought back from the
famous couturier, and Pierre Sahara, the soldiers of the
Bergé. Skilfully restored, the 11th-century Almoravid sultan
garden is divided by four Youssef ben Tachfine spat
walkways that cross each other out the stones around their
to create parterres of brightly encampment. The stones are
coloured tropical flowers. supposed to have germinated
Besides yucca, bougainvillea, and led to the creation of
bamboo, laurel, geraniums, La Palmeraie (Palm Grove)
hibiscus and cypresses, the in Marrakech.
garden has over 400 varieties Covering an area of some
of palm tree and 1,800 species 120 sq km (46 sq miles), the
of cactus. Water lilies grow in grove consists of fields, gardens
An apartment block in Guéliz, Marrakech’s a pool bordered by papyrus. and orchards irrigated by
Ville Nouvelle The studio has been ditches and wells supplied by
converted into a small museum khettaras. Although it contains
that contains a selection of 150,000 trees, the agricultural
g Majorelle Garden Moroccan crafts such as antique function of the grove is being
Avenue Yacoub el-Mansour (near carpets, Fassi ceramics and pared away by the advance
the bus station). Open Summer: Berber doors, and some 40 of buildings and the greed of
8am–5pm; Winter: 8am–5:30pm. & engravings of the villages and developers who are making
kasbahs of the Atlas executed inroads into it by building
This wonderful garden is like by Jacques Majorelle. desirable residences here.
a small paradise in the heart
of Ville Nouvelle (the new town).
In 1923, Jacques Majorelle (see
above) fell in love with Morocco
and built himself a splendid
Moorish villa, which he called
Bou Safsaf, in Marrakech. He
designed the patterns of the
zellij tilework, painted the
front door, and decorated the
interior in tones of deep blue,
green and dark red. Around the
house he laid out a luxuriant La Palmeraie (Palm Grove) in Marrakech, with 150,000 trees
HIGH ATLAS
Little-known because of its relative inaccessibility, the High Atlas
makes up the largest massif in the Atlas chain. It is also the highest
mountain range in North Africa. In this geographical isolation
Berber culture and identity prospered. Over the centuries,
the tribes established their own economic and social
framework, and a unique collective way of life, based
on blood ties and solidarity.
Extending from the plains of the Atlantic This tumultuous feudal past led to
seaboard to Morocco’s border with Algeria, the development of a strikingly beautiful
the High Atlas forms an impregnable form of fortified architecture. Today,
barrier some 800 km (500 miles) long although the Berbers no longer need
and, in certain places, 100 km (60 miles) to guard their safety, they still live in
wide. Consisting of great massifs rising tighremts, old patriarchal houses with
to heights of 3,000–4,000 m (10,000– thick walls. Hamlets built of pisé still cling
13,000 ft), and steep valleys, desolate to mountainsides, while every last plot of
rocky plains and deep narrow canyons, land is used to grow barley, corn, maize,
the High Atlas has played a decisive turnips, lucerne and potatoes – crops
role in the history of Morocco. that can be cultivated at high altitudes.
From earliest times these mountains The Berbers channel river water to irrigate
have been a place of refuge for small squares of land and graze their
populations fleeing from invaders. For flocks of sheep and goats, which they
centuries, nomads forced northwards raise for milk, butter and wool.
by the desertification of the Sahara have Sometimes isolated by snowfall in winter,
come into conflict with the sedentary the Berbers of the High Atlas live and work
mountain-dwelling tribes, disputing by the seasons, the constant round of
possession of prized pasture. labour punctuated by a variety of festivals.
The kasbah in Telouet, abandoned in 1956

Skiing at Oukaïmeden, the Atlas Mountains
Exploring the High Atlas

Crowned with high peaks, the chain of the High Atlas
culminates in the west in Jbel Toubkal. At 4,167 m (13,676 ft),
this is the highest peak in North Africa, with pisé villages
nestling on its lower slopes. In the centre, Jbel M’Goun,
at 4,068 m (13,351 ft), rises over the Tessaout, Aït
Marrakech
Bouguemez and Aït Bou Oulli valleys. The only channels of
communication between these valleys are mule trails and
high passes. On the banks of the wadi that snakes along
the valley bottoms, villages cluster around fortified houses, Area shown by map
punctuating expanses of cultivated land. The eastern end below
of the High Atlas is marked by the imposing outline of Jbel
Ayachi, 3,737 m (12,265 ft) high. Here high desert plateaux Key
stretch to the horizon. From late spring to early autumn Motorway
they are filled with flocks of grazing sheep. Major road
Minor road
Track
Railway
0 km 20 Summit
0 miles 20 Pass
Beni Mellal
Attaouïa
Ech Cheibiya Zaouia-
Taglaout
Settat
Demnate
Safi
Dar el-Betma
MARRAKECH
Sidi-Rahhal
Essaouira
Aït Ourir
Wadi Ourika O
Ourika Amanouz
Oumnast h
g
Tahanaoute
TIZI-N-TICHKA
PASS ROAD i
H
UR
IK
Arhbalou Taddert TELOUET

A
VA Tizi-n-Tichka
Pass Anemiter
ASNI Setti Fatma LL
EY
Amizmiz
Ouirgane
Agouim
OUKAÏMEDEN
Taska n’Zat Issaldaïn
Imlil 3912m
TIZI-N-TEST PASS
ROAD JBEL TOUBKAL Amerzgane
Âït-Benhaddou
Ijoukak
TIN MAL
Ouarzazate
Âït-Bou-Ktir
Tizi-n-Test Pass
Tachokchte
Askaoun Tazenakht
Aoulouza
Taroudannt
Taliouine

H I G H AT L A S  251
Sights at a Glance
1 Ourika Valley
2 Oukaïmeden
4 Asni
5 Tizi-n-Test Pass Road
6 Tin Mal
7 Tizi-n-Tichka Pass Road
8 Telouet
9 Aït Bouguemez Valley pp258–61
0 Imilchil
Tour Harvesting barley in the Aït Bouguemez valley

3 The Jbel Toubkal Massif
Lac de Iseli
Beni Mellal Lac de Tiselit
IMILCHIL Midelt
Bin
el-Ouidane
Tilougguite s
a Agoudal
Azilal l
t
Âït-Mhamed
A
EY Zaouïa-
LL Ahanesal Tilmi
VA
EZ
M Jbel Azourki
Achaouïkh G UE 3677m
B OU Zaouïa-Oulemsi
T
AÏ El-Had Âït-Toukhsine
Agouti
Âït-Oudinar
Jbel M’Goun
Jbel Tignousti 4068m
3825m Boumalne
du Dadès
Bou-Thrarar
Getting Around
With the High Atlas forming an
Toundoute imposing east-to-west barrier,
the most westerly north-to-
south route in this region is the
R203. Running from Marrakech,
it crosses the Tizi-n-Test Pass
and leads to Taroudannt
and Agadir. South-east of
Marrakech, another road, the
N9, via the Tizi-n-Tichka Pass,
leads to Ouarzazate. In the
central stretch of the mountain
chain, there is no road over the
High Atlas for 200 km (124 miles).
Only a track, which is often
impassable in winter, crosses
the lake-filled plateau to reach
the Dadès valley. On the
eastern side, a road from Fès
runs along the Middle and
High Atlas, leading via Midelt
The village of Dar Caïd Ouriki, at the entrance to the Ourika valley to the Tafilalt valley.
as in August 1995, when many reached on a road that forks

houses were swept away. off to the right at the village
Beyond Arhbalou, at an of Arhbalou, with the Ourika
altitude of 1,500 m (4,923 ft), valley on the left. Shaded by
the valley narrows and gently olive, oak and walnut trees,
rises. The road comes to an end the road then winds upwards
at Setti Fatma, a good starting in a series of hairpin bends
point for hikes. Seven waterfalls through a stony landscape.
flow down the rocky scree The chalets and winter sports
above the village. The first facilities are in the village itself,
of these is easy to reach by encircled by mountain peaks:
walking up the course of Jbel Oukaïmeden, rising to a
the wadi. The walk up to the height of 3,273 m (10,742 ft),
others is over more uneven Jbel Ouhattar, at 3,258 m
ground, and some climbing (10,693 ft), and Jbel Angour,
is involved, so that you will at 3,614 m (11,861 ft). The
need strong walking boots. great Oukaïmeden plateau
Wadi Ourika, irrigating a valley of fruit From that vantage point is carpeted in pasture, the
tree plantations there is a superb view over grazing of which is controlled
Setti Fatma. by tradition.
1 Ourika Valley The village may also be From November to April, if the
used as the starting point for snow is sufficiently deep, a chair
Road Map C4. 68 km (42 miles)
from Marrakech on road P2017. longer hikes to Jbel Toubkal lift – the highest in North Africa
@ from Marrakech; alternatively, by and Yagour Plateau, whose – runs up to the summit of Jbel
taxi. n Marrakech; (0524) 43 61 31. peak is well known for the Oukaïmeden, while several ski
_ Moussem of Setti Fatma (mid-Aug). hundreds of rock engravings lifts allow beginners to practise
that can be seen here. on the lower slopes. The resort
The trip to the Ourika valley, The tomb of Setti Fatma is also offers long-distance and
68 km (42 miles) southeast of the focus of a moussem that cross-country skiing.
Marrakech, offers a pleasant takes place in the village in Rock engravings can be seen
tour of the lower foothills of mid-August. This religious in the village and on the plateau.
the Atlas. Beyond the village of pilgrimage is also an occasion Dating from the Bronze Age,
Tnine-de-l’Ourika, the valley, when Berbers from a wide they depict mainly daggers,
through which flows the Ourika, area can gather together. halbards, shields and humans.
becomes verdant. The largest About 2 km (1 mile)
souk in the valley takes place from the resort, the site of
in the village on Mondays. 2 Oukaïmeden a transmission mast at an
All along the road that follows altitude of 2,740 m (8,993 ft)
the course of the wadi, small Marrakech on road P2017. @ from
commands a magnificent
houses, cafés, grocery shops Marrakech, then taxi. n Marrakech; view of the Atlas and the plain
and small hotels cling to the (0524) 43 61 31. where Marrakech is located. In
hillside. Gardens and plots of summer, Oukaïmeden is also
cultivated land shaded by many A ski resort in winter and base the starting point for mountain
fruit trees are laid out along the for mountain hikes in summer, hikes, particularly up to the
valley bottom. The Ourika river Oukaïmeden is a haven of fresh Tizi-n-Ouaddi Pass, the beautiful
is occasionally subject to sudden air, just over one hour from village of Tacheddirt, and to
and devastating flooding, such Marrakech. The resort is easily Imlil and the Tizi-n-Test Pass.
The ski resort at Oukaïmeden, built in 1950

3 Tour of the Jbel Toubkal Massif

As well as the opportunity to climb to the top of Jbel
Toubkal, at 4,167 m (13,676 ft) the highest peak in the
Atlas, the Jbel Toubkal massif offers great scope for hikes
lasting several days. Climbing Toubkal is not particularly
difficult, but the fact that it is a high-altitude hike over
rough terrain should be taken into account. From the
Toubkal Refuge, the summit of Jbel Toubkal can be reached
in about four hours. For the finest view over the High Atlas,
7 Tacheddirt This pretty
it is best to reach the summit in the late morning.
village, at 2314 m (7,595 ft) and
set amid mountains, is reached
8 Lepiney Hut Located at 1 Imlil Surrounded by walnut and via the Tizi-n-Tamatert Pass,
the start of the hike up the fruit trees, this mountain village is the east of Imlil.
Azzaden valley and across starting point for the climb up Jbel
Jbel Angour
the Tazarhart plateau, at Toubkal and also for many other 3,616 m
3,000 m (9,846 ft), the hut mountain hikes. (11,868 ft)
is used by seasoned hikers

and rock climbers. Ouaneskrra 2 Aremd
Asni The village, in the Mizane
valley, lies at 1,900 m
(6,236 ft). Its stone houses
Tamatert
cling to the rocky
mountainside, surrounded
by cultivated terraces.
Tizi
Aksoual
Oussem 3,842 m
(12,609 ft)
3 Sidi Chamharouch
At the end of a deep gorge,
Azib the koubba of Sidi
Tamsoult Chamharouch, king of the
Tichki
djnouu (genies), attracts
3,753 m pilgrims all year-round.
(12,317 ft)
4 Toubkal Refuge
Tazarhart 3.843m This is the last stopping place
(12,613 ft) before the summit of Jbel Toubkal.
The refuge, at 3,200 m (10,502 ft), is
open all year-round.
Tizi-n-
Ouanoums
Ouanoukrim Tips for Hikers

4,088m (13,417 ft)
Reasonably fit hikers can climb to
the summit of Jbel Toubkal
without a guide.
0 kilometres 5 Starting point: Imlil, 17 km
(10.5 miles) from Asni on road
0 miles 5
P2015, or 1 hour and 30 minutes
from Marrakech.
6 Lake Ifni
The lake, five hours’ walk When to go: April to October
from Toubkal Refuge, lies in offers the best conditions.
a mineral-rich environment. Huts: Toubkal (5 hours from
Shepherds’ huts stand on Imlil), Lépiney (two days’ walk
the lakeshore. from the Tazarhart plateau) and
Tacheddirt (2 hours and 30
minutes from Imlil).
Information: Detailed maps of
5 Jbel Toubkal the area can be obtained from
Key You can climb to the top at the guides’ office at Imlil. Mules
the end of winter: it offers can also be hired for walks
Tour route (footpath) breathtaking views over the lasting several days.
Track whole of the High Atlas.
Just before Ouirgane, a small view of the Souss plain and of

road to the right leads to hills covered with argan trees,
Amizmiz, a pretty village with a 2,000 m (6,564 ft) below.
ruined kasbah, set in the midst
of olive trees. The souk here is
renowned for Berber pottery 6 Tin Mal
made in the village itself. Road Map B4. About 25 km (15.5
Ouirgane is a resort whose miles) south of Asni on road R203.
coolness in summer makes it Mosque: Open daily, except Friday for
popular with the inhabitants of non-Muslims. To visit the mosque, ask
Marrakech. A few salt mines are the caretaker in the village of Tin Mal.
The village of Asni, encircled by the still worked here.
Tamaroute mountains As the road climbs further In an isolated setting at
up to the Tizi-n-Test Pass, the foot of the Atlas, 10 km
4 Asni snaking through red, almost (6 miles) beyond Ijoukak on
purple terrain, the landscape the Tizi-n-Test Pass road, the
Marrakech on road R203. @ from becomes more wild. Starting Mosque of Tin Mal situated
Marrakech, then by taxi. ( Sat. from Ijoukak, keen hikers can uphill from the village, is the
reach the Agoundis valley, last remaining sign of the
With an interesting red- walking in the Almohad conquest
walled kasbah, Asni is the first direction of Taghbart in the 12th century.
large village on the road from and El-Maghzen, or Tin Mal, once a
Marrakech to the Tizi-n-Test Pass. make for the Jbel fortified holy town,
Attractive orchards surround Toubkal massif. was founded by
the village and there are many Beyond Ijoukak, the the theologian Ibn
mule tracks leading up to the massive Tin Mal Toumart in 1125.
plateaux in its vicinity. mosque is visible on From here, he
From this small settlement, a the right. Tizi-n-Test pottery fomented a holy war
metalled road leads to the village Below the Tizi-n-Test against the Almoravids
of Imlil, which is the starting Pass, imposing deserted and was recognized as a
point for hikes to Jbel Toubkal kasbahs perch on arid outcrops. religious leader by the Berber
(see p253). They all date from the end of tribes of the High Atlas.
the 19th century and belonged In 1276, the town was sacked
Environs to the Goundafa, a powerful and pillaged by the Merinids.
The very popular moussem at Berber tribe that controlled Only the sumptuous mosque
Moulay Brahim, 5 km (3 miles) access to the pass. From was left standing. It was built in
from Asni, takes place one to two November to April, the pass, at 1153 by Abd el-Moumen, Ibn
weeks after the festival of Mouloud an altitude of 2,093 m (6,869 ft) Toumart’s successor and the first
(see p45). Moroccans ascribe to is sometimes blocked by snow. Almohad ruler. The mosque has
the saint Moulay Brahim the The descent offers a beautiful been restored and as a UNESCO
power to cure barren women.
Pilgrims come to lay their gifts
before his tomb and to hang
small pieces of fabric from the
shrubs here. When one of these
fragments falls from the shrub,
the woman who hung it may
expect a child.
5 Tizi-n-Test
Pass Road
Road Map B-C4. Accessible from
Marrakech on road R203. @ from
Marrakech or Taroudannt. ( Thu in
Ouirgane; Wed in Ijoukak.
Beyond Asni, the road crosses

the High Atlas, then runs down
into the Souss plain. This road,
in a good state of repair although
narrow and meandering in
places, was built by the French
in the 1930s. The tortuous road winding up to the Tizi-n-Test Pass
Road leading to Tizi-n-Test Pass in the High Atlas Mountains
Thus it was that Telouet, a

town with an illustrious past,
has been the victim of neglect
since 1956. The glazed tiles are
disintegrating, the lookout
towers crumbling, the walls
cracking and the windows
shattered. Most of the rooms
are inaccessible since the roof
has fallen in.
However, low-ceilinged,
bare-walled corridors lead
to two reception rooms that
have miraculously survived
the passage of time. They
are vestiges of the opulence
The mosque at Tin Mal, with pink brickwork and plaster stalactites treasured by El-Glaoui. The
Andalusian-style rooms have
World Heritage Site, it is one of patterns. Palm trees come into engraved stuccowork, painted
the few religious buildings in view, and a wide stony desert cedar ceilings and doors,
Morocco that is open to non- plain with tones of pink and and colourful zellij tilework.
Muslims. Its high walls and sturdy beige leads to Ouarzazate. Daylight entering through
towers give it a fortress-like look. a glass-covered dome and a
small window framed with
decorative wrought iron lights
7 Tizi-n-Tichka Pass the rooms from dawn to sunset.
Road
Environs
Road Map C4. From Marrakech or
Ouarzazate on road N9. @ Marrakech
From Telouet, a narrow,
or Ouarzazate. ( Tue in Aït Ourir. winding metalled road offers
a picturesque route to the
Built by the French in the 1920s, village of Aït Benhaddou (see
this winding road runs through p269). In this fertile valley,
a landscape that is, by turn, arid, planted with palm, fig and
mineral-rich environments and olive trees, and irrigated by
fertile valleys. Pisé villages, in Interior of the fortified grainstore at Wadi Ounila, kasbahs signal the
tones of red or grey, huddle at Igherm-n-Ougdal past importance of El-Glaoui’s
the foot of hillsides. fiefdom. The attractive village
The first pass, Tizi-n-Aït of Anemiter, standing at the
Imger, at an altitude of 1,470 m 8 Telouet head of the Ounila valley some
(4,825 ft), offers a panoramic Road Map C4. Accessible from
11 km (9 miles) from Telouet,
view of the Atlas chain. Here, road N9. Open daily; caretaker on is unusually well preserved.
the road is lined with stalls the premises.
selling pottery, mineral rocks
and stones whose colours are About 5 km (3 miles) along
a little too bright to be natural. the road running down
From here up to the Tizi-n- from the Tizi-n-Tichka Pass,
Tichka Pass – which, at an towards Ouarzazate, a narrow
altitude of 2,260 m (7,417 ft), metalled minor road leads off
is the highest road pass in to the left. It drops down into
Morocco – crops gradually give a steep valley, and 20 km
way to a landscape of bare red (12 miles) further on reaches
soil. The mountains become the kasbah of Telouet.
more rounded and the houses This was one of the principal
are built higher, with more residences of Al-Thami el-Glaoui,
decoration, anticipating those pasha of Marrakech, whose
of the Moroccan south. The fiefdom covered a large part of
impressive fortified grainstore the High Atlas. El-Glaoui served
on the way out of Igherm-n- the sultan, then switched to the
Ougdal is open to visitors. French in 1912. His opposition
Beyond Agouim, on the other to Sultan Mohammed V cost
side of the wadi, stands the him dear, for on his death his
restored kasbah at El-Mdint, its family was exiled and his Painted wooden ceiling in the kasbah
towers decorated with relief possessions dispersed. of Telouet
9 Aït Bouguemez Valley

The wide, flat Aït Bouguemez valley is flanked by a landscape
of high, arid hilltops. This is the domain of the Aït Bouguemez
tribe, who are settled farmers. The tribe is thought to be the
oldest established in the region. The valley is covered in
meticulously tilled plots of land surrounded by ditches, and
walnut trees grow in undulating fields of barley and corn.
On the dry slopes, pisé hamlets cluster around tighremts,
old fortified houses. The valley is the starting point for hikes
through spectacular scenery up to the massif of Jbel M’Goun.
There are 28 villages scattered along the valley between
Agouti and Zaouïa Oulemsi.
Threshing the Corn

Mules attached to a post in the
centre of the threshing ground
circle slowly, trampling the corn.
This separates the grain from
the husks and straw.
. Painted Ceilings In the tamsriyt, a room set aside for

overnight guests, the ceilings – particularly in Agouti –
are decorated with geometric motifs and thin coloured
lines skilfully drawn freehand or with a compass.
Tizi-n-Tirrhist
2,629 m
(8,625 ft)
Key
Minor road
Track
Path Ifrane
kim
th
ai
Aϊt Wanougdal - n-
sit
Iskattafene As
Imelghas Ikhf-n-Ighir
Jbel Tizal Rbat
3,041 m
Timit Sidi Moussa Ibaqalliwn
(9,977 ft)
El-Had Akhourbi
Aguerd- Aϊt Imi
Aϊt Ziri
Ajit n- ouzrou
Mhamed
Agouti
0 kilometres 3
0 miles 3

Agouti. Road Map C3. Accessible
on road N8 from Marrakech, then
road R208 to Azilal, continuing
south and, before Aït Mhamed,
turning right then left to Agouti.
The road is metalled as far as
Tabant, but with a four-wheel-
drive vehicle it is possible to
reach Zaouïa Ahansal then Bin
el-Ouidane. 8 Guides and
mules can be hired in Tabant
and other villages. Guesthouse
Maize Drying on the Rooftops accommodation is also available.
In the autumn, maize is laid out carefully on the tiered rooftops.
When it has dried, the grain is separated from the cob on a
concrete floor by hand.
Bin El-Ouidane
Tizi-n-Ilissi
2,603 m
(8,540 ft)
Jbel Aroudane
3,359 m
(11,020 ft)
Jbel Azourki
3677 m
. Souk in El-Had
(12,064 ft) The Sunday souk,
with weekly deliveries
arriving by truck, provides
the local inhabitants with
necessities, such as tea, coffee,
sugar, matches, oil and utensils,
that they cannot otherwise obtain.
Izourar Lake
KEY
1 Zaouïa Oulemsi is the departure

point for hikes to Lake Izourar.
2 Tabant is the valley’s
administrative centre. The souk at
El-Had takes place on Sundays.
3 The restored circular granary in
Sidi Moussa is famous in the region.
4 The direct route to Aït
Mohammed is best avoided. Instead
take the easier road from Agouti.
5 Zaouïa Ahansal contains
Valley Landscape Drawn to the pastures in the region, tighremts, old fortified houses.
the industrious Berbers have irrigated the land so as to 6 Many nomadic herdsmen camp
extract the most from it, and built fortified villages to on the shores of Lake Izourar.
ensure their safety.
Exploring the Aït Bouguemez Valley

Clinging to the mountainside, the hamlets of the Aït
Bouguemez valley blend into their setting, being almost the
same colour as the landscape. The houses are stacked together
like building blocks, the flat roof of the house serving as a
terrace for the inhabitants of the house above. Looking down
onto the river and the village’s communal land, these cube-
like houses catch the warmth of the rising sun and are adapted
to the rigours of the climate. Houses in the valley bottom are
built of pisé, raw earth dug at the spot where the house is to
be built, mixed with water and sometimes straw. In villages
at altitudes above 2,200 m (7,220 ft), dry stone is used, since
pisé is unsuited to cold and wet conditions.
Detail of a painted ceiling, typical of the
houses of the Aït Bouguemez
the Berbers come on a pilgrimage

in years of drought. Abachkou,
an interesting, high-set village
at the far end of the valley, is
renowned for the beautiful
white capes produced by the
villagers and found nowhere
else in Morocco.
Sidi Moussa
East of Agouti.
Perched on the summit of a
pointed hill, in the centre of the
Aït Bouguemez valley, Sidi
Moussa granary has benefited
Setting off for the souk in a village below Jbel Ghat from a complete restoration and
is on UNESCO’s World Heritage
Agouti ceilings in the houses of list. It is reached by a steep
At the western extremity of the Aït wealthier families. The painted path from the village of Timit.
Bouguemez valley. decoration is executed by This collective granary, one
The first of the villages that craftsmen of renown and of three in the region, is a
line the valley, Agouti is features an infinite variety sturdy circular building with
located at 1,800 m (5,908 ft). of geometric patterns. incorporated watch towers.
As an outpost of the Aït In the interior, which is lit by
Bouguemez tribe, it once Aït Bou Oulli Valley sparse loop-hole windows, a
defended access to the high West of Agouti. spiral staircase leads to the two
valley against rival tribes. From Agouti, a day trip can upper floors. In the half-light,
A ruined igherm (fortified be made to the Aït Bou Oulli compartments arranged along
communal granary), set on valley on mule-back or by four- the walls can be made out. This
a sheer rocky promontory, wheel-drive vehicle. A sheer- was where the inhabitants kept
towers above the village. sided track leads down into their possessions.
The villagers the valley, whose Sidi Moussa, the holy man
once kept their name means “the renowned for his good deeds
possessions and people who raise and his powers as a healer, is
their crops here. ewes”. The narrow buried here. Sterile women of
In the valley, many wooded valley, the Aït Bouguemez valley and
houses have thickly covered with from more distant valleys visit
electricity, as well walnut trees, winds the shrine, where they spend
as some form of the length of the the night and sacrifice a chicken
running water. wadi, which irrigates as an offering to him.
In Agouti, as in small fields. From the granary, it is possible
some of the other Jbel Ghat, rising to look over the rest of the
villages in the valley, above the valley, is a valley, with the outlines of
visitors can see some Mules in the Aït Bou peak with mythical nearby villages dotting the
beautiful wood Oulli valley associations to which surrounding hillsides.
Aït Ziri, Timit, Imelghas

and Iskattafène
East of Agouti. ( at El-Had on Sun.
Walking around these villages,
visitors will observe such details
as decorated doors (either carved
or painted in bright colours)
and windows with interlacing
wrought iron or mashrabiyya
screens. Some very fine tighremts
(fortified houses) dating from
the early 20th century are still
inhabited by village chiefs
and their large families.
Close to Tabant, the Cultivated fields in the Aït Bouguemez valley
administrative centre of the
valley, El-Had is well known carefully controlled to prevent 2,629 m (8,628 ft). The
for its Sunday souk. This is the over-grazing. mountains are very bare here.
only place in the valley where The shepherds include the Aït The track passes a “fossilized
supplies can be purchased. Bouguemez, who forest” of juniper,
The village is also the starting come for the summer, with gnarled, dying
point for mountain hikes to living in the stone- trunks; the species
the M’Goun. built sheepfolds, and faces extinction.
the Aït Atta, with Zaouïa Ahansal,
Zaouïa Oulemsi their sheep, goats consisting of some
On the way from Agouti, on a and camels, who in old tighremts and
narrow track. summer come up to the tomb of its
Zaouïa Oulemsi is the last the High Atlas from founder, Saïd Ahansal,
village in the Aït Bouguemez Jbel Sarhro. Seeking dates from the 14th
valley, which it overlooks from good pasture, they Fortified granary, Aït century, when the
an altitude of 2,150 m (7,056 ft). settle on the slopes Bouguemez valley marabout movement
It consists of low, red-hued dry- of M’Goun, around loomed large in the
stone houses. Here, the snowfall Lake Izourar or on history of this mountain region.
comes early and tends to the Imilchil plateau, moving Zaouias (sanctuaries set up
be heavy. south again at the first frosts. around the tombs of marabouts,
The village is the starting point holy figures and the leaders
for hikes to Lake Izourar, which Zaouïa Ahansal of brotherhoods) were then
lies in the heart of the mountains On the track towards Bin el-Ouidane. protected holy places, where
at an altitude of 2,500 m (8,205 ft). ( Mon. pilgrims and the needy found
Many nomadic shepherds camp A track running along the refuge. In exchange for the
beside the lake, which is often continuation of the Aït protection given by the
dry in summer, when it turns into Bouguemez valley goes up marabout, the Berbers maintained
pasture, the use of which is to the Tizi-n-Tirrhist Pass, at the land around the zaouia,
were taught Arabic and
received Koranic instruction.
Heedless of the power of
the sultans, the leaders of some
zaouias controlled the lives of
the mountain people, settling
disputes over land ownership
and imposing their will. Zaouïa
Ahansal was a major influence
on the local Berber populations,
but the descendants of Saïd
Ahansal came into conflict with
the fiefs of the caids (chief of a
defined territory) of the High
Atlas. They held out against
the French until 1934.
The track continues for 40 km
(25 miles) before reaching La
Cathédrale, an impressive rock
formation, then Lake Bin
Animals grazing around Lake Izourar, in summer el-Ouidane.
who wish to can visit the tent

of the adouls (lawyers) and sign
a betrothal agreement. These
unions are often engineered
by the respective families ahead
of the moussem.
The event, which for some
years has attracted crowds of
tourists, has lost some of its
authenticity. The presentation
and parade of the couples and
the evenings of folk dance and
song are but a superficial aspect
of what is a great commercial
and religious gathering.
The colourful tents of the great
Lake Tiselit, on the Plateau des Lacs, near Imilchil souk spread out across the wide
plateau. Traders sell basketry,
0 Imilchil Although Imilchil is remote, cooking utensils, blankets and
Road Map D3. Accessible via Kasba
its claim to fame is the annual handwoven carpets, metalware,
Tadla (on road N8) and El-Ksiba (on Marriage Fair, a moussem at clothing, basic foodstuffs, and
road R317). ( Sat. which women may choose a other items. On the hillside, herds
fiancé and many pilgrims and of cows and camels and flocks of
On its eastern end, the chain of traders from the mountains sheep await buyers.
the High Atlas descends as if it gather. It takes place at the The Plateau des Lacs can
had been crushed, forming a end of September at a spot be reached either by following
desert plateau surrounded known as Aït Haddou a long track that runs from
by rolling mountains. Ameur, some 20 km El-Ksiba, crossing narrow
Imilchil is at the heart of (13 miles) from Imilchil. gorges and undulating passes,
this sparsely populated Arriving on foot, by or on a surfaced road via Rich,
region – the territory of truck or by mule, all the further east. This mineral-rich
the Aït Haddidou. tribes of the area flock environment, at an altitude of
This group of semi- to this great yearly 2,000– 3,500 m (6,500–11,500 ft),
nomadic shepherds commercial, social and is dotted with isolated tighremts,
came originally religious gathering. and a splash of colour is provided
from Boumalne du Chimney with “cooking pot” The pilgrims throng by the emerald waters of
Dadès, located in finial, Imilchil around the pisé walls lakes Tiselit and Iseli. In summer,
the high Dadès of the shrine of Sidi sheep are brought to the lush
valley, where some of them Ahmed ou Mghanni, a venerated pasture here.
still live. They arrived in holy man, to present
Morocco during the centuries their offerings.
immediately after the The origin of the
introduction of Islam, and Marriage Fair goes
there is evidence of their back to the story of
presence in the Boumalne du two lovers, Hadda and
Dadès region durng the 11th Moha, members of
century. For several years they rival tribes who were
were in conflict with the kept apart by their
powerful Aït Atta tribe in parents. Their tears
disputes over pasture, then created two lakes,
settled in the Assif Melloul Iseli, “the fiancé”, and
valley in the 17th century. Tiselit, “the fiancée”, on
The village of Imilchil is the Plateau des Lacs
dominated by a sumptuously (see below). Ever since,
decorated kasbah. Its towers young girls who
have a curious feature: the come to the moussem
angles of the crenellation are with their family may
set with finials resembling converse freely with
inverted cooking pots. This men from other
decorative device is also related tribes, although
to superstitious belief, as it gives they must be
protection against lightning accompanied by
and the “evil eye” and is a a sister or a female
symbol of prosperity. friend. Young couples A couple at the Imilchil Marriage Fair
Berbers of the High Atlas

The Berbers of the High Atlas are non-nomadic peasants. Many of them have a
completely self-sufficient lifestyle, and in certain valleys mule tracks are the only channel
of communication with the outside world. The inhabitants of these remote valleys live by
the pattern of the seasons and the round of work in the fields. In the autumn, the men till
the soil with a wooden plough and buy and sell goods and produce at the weekly souk.
In winter, the women collect water from the river, gather wood and weave thick woollen
blankets. In spring, the men dig and maintain vital irrigation channels. In summer, the
women harvest and thresh the grain, while the men winnow barley on threshing floors.
Family Festivals
The daily life of the Berber
women of the High Atlas is
enlivened by family festivals.
The women, dressed in dazzling
clothes, dance the ahwach or
the ahidous, according to the
region, while the men intone
chants as they beat out a regular
rhythm on their bendir.
At the Marriage Fair in Imilchil, the raïs, the dance leader of

this folk troupe, beats out the rhythm on his bendir, a kind
of tambourine, with his right hand.
A woman carries barley

on her back to the
threshing ground. There
the unripe barley will
be deposited.
Berber women from the Aït

Haddidou tribe wear differently
striped cloaks to signal that they
belong to a certain clan.
This weaver from Abachkou,

in the Aït Bou Oulli valley,
washes, cards and spins sheep’s
wool. She weaves the yarn into
cloth to make white capes,
which are then decorated with Men come to the souk at Imilchil to buy and sell livestock and to
pieces of metal. stock up with vital supplies for the winter.
OUARZAZATE &
THE SOUTHERN OASES
This fascinating region begins at the southern edge of the
High Atlas, where desert and mountains meet. The stony
desert is broken by green oases where shade-giving date
palms grow in profusion. Cut by steep canyons and studded
with arid hills, it is criss-crossed by wadis right up to the
edge of the Sahara. Here, the light is intensely bright
and the colours sumptuously rich.
The history of Morocco is closely linked to centres on three great wadis, the Draa,
this region bordering the Sahara desert, the Dadès and the Ziz. These rivers have
the birthplace of the great Moroccan created stunning landscapes, carving
dynasties. In the 11th century, Almoravid gorges and canyons out of the sides of
warriors, who came from the Sahara, set the High Atlas and Anti-Atlas. The date
out from the south to extend their empire palm that brings welcome shade to small
from Senegal to Spain. In the 16th century, plots of corn and barley accounts for
the Saadians, who came from Arabia, left the region’s wealth. The palm groves are
the Draa valley to conquer Morocco. punctuated by hundreds of kasbahs and
Lastly, the Alaouites, the dynasty that ksour. These fortified villages and houses
holds power in Morocco today, settled protected the sedentary populations
in the Tafilalt region in the 13th century. against attack from nomadic tribes. Many
Trade in gold, salt and slaves between of them are still inhabited today, although
black Africa and Morocco melded the local they are slowly crumbling. The desert
populations, so that Arabs, Berbers and begins south of the oases. Every year,
Haratines, descendants of ancient black aided by drought, it encroaches further
populations, lived side by side. Life here onto arable land.
The central patio of the kasbah at Oulad Driss, in the southern Draa valley
The Dadès Gorge with a dramatic backdrop in the Atlas Mountains
Exploring Ouarzazate and the Southern Oases

The Draa Valley, south of Ouarzazate, and the Tafilalt valley, south
of Er-Rachidia, are the two great routes to the Sahara. The valleys
are interconnected by the Dadès valley, which covers 120 km
(75 miles) between Ouarzazate and Boumalne du Dadès. It cuts
through a desert plateau at an average altitude of 1,000 to 1,500 m
(3,282 to 4,923 ft), set between the High Atlas on its northern side
and the foothills of Jbel Sarhro on its southern side. Other valleys,
irrigated by wadis flowing down from the Atlas, impinge on the
Dadès valley. Negotiable on foot or by four-wheel-drive vehicle,
they give access to the interior of the High Atlas. Exploring this Imilchil
region, experiencing the scenic oases and visiting the most h

interesting ksour, takes at least a week. g
i
H Agoudal
Getting Around
Roads in a good state of repair run between Âït-Hani
Ouarzazate and Zagora, Er-Rachidia and Erfoud.
Msemrir
However, distances are great, and the mountainous
terrain and passes to be negotiated must be taken TAMTATTOUCHTE
into account. Although certain tracks can be followed
DADÈS GORGE TODRA
only in a four-wheel-drive vehicle, an ordinary car GORGE
is sufficient to drive on the major roads. Buses
and grands taxis from Ouarzazate cover the TINERHIR
whole region. Aït Arbi Kasbah
Imiter
BOUMALNE DU DADÈS
EL-KELAA
Toundout M'GOUNA
Tizi-n-Tazazert
Pass Ikniounn
Marrakech SKOURA R O
AÏT
dè
RH
s
Amerzgane BENHADDOU a SA
d i D
Wa Bab n’Ali
L
OUARZAZATE E
TAOURIRT KASBAH JB Imi-n'Kern
Nekob
W
Tazenakht ad Tazzarine
i Dr
Finnt a
Zaouia
a
Àït-Saoun Tafetchna
Tamnougalt J bel
0 km 20 Agdz Rh
DRA
A
ar
0 miles 20
t
Igdaoun
VA
LL
E
J be l
Y
Azlag Gorge
Ta
ZAGORA
d ra
rt
Amazraou
TAMEGROUTE
Zaouia-el-Barrahnia
Jbel Ben
i Anagame
Nesrate Dunes
Tagounite
MHAMID
Msemrir, a village at the foot of the High Atlas (see p277)
O UA R Z A Z AT E & T H E S O U T H E R N O A S E S  267
Azrou
Guercif
MIDELT Er-Rachidia
Cirque de Jaffar Ouarzazate
Jbel Ayachi
3737m
s
a
l
t Area shown by map
A Amouguèr Rich
below
Wa
Jbel Aderdouz
di
3055m
Ziz
Âït-el-Rhazi
ZIZ GORGE
Tizga Djebel-bou-Hamid
2252m
Boudnib
Jbel Baddou ER-RACHIDIA
2920m
Tahemdount
SOURCE BLEUE
DE MESKI
Aoufouss
GOULMIMA
Wa d
i Rheris
Tinejdad
ERFOUD
TAFILALT
PALM GROVE Elaborately designed door of
Er
gn at
l Ou
gC
Jbe RISSANI the zaouia in Tamegroute

he
bbi
Achbarou
Tazoulaït MERZOUGA
Alnif
Taouz
Sights at a Glance
Key 1 Ouarzazate
2 Taourirt Kasbah
Major road
3 Aït Benhaddou
Minor road
4 Jbel Sarhro
Track 5 Draa Valley
Summit 6 Zagora
Pass 7 Tamegroute
8 Mhamid
9 Skoura
0 El-Kelaa M’Gouna
q Boumalne du Dadès
w Dadès Gorge
e Tinerhir
r Todra Gorge
t Tamtattouchte
y Goulmima
u Midelt
i Ziz Gorge
o Er-Rachidia
p Source Bleue de Meski
a Erfoud
s Tafilalt Palm Grove
d Rissani
An austere kasbah in the Dadès Gorge f Merzouga

Environs
About 10 km (6 miles) to the
south is the Finnt Oasis, with fine
pisé ksour. A little further on is the
El-Mansour Eddahbi Dam, fed by
the Dadès and Ouarzazate rivers,
which join to form the Draa.
The dam provides water for the
golf course, the Draa’s palm groves
and electricity for the valley.
About 7 km (4 miles) northwest
of Ouarzazate is the majestic
Tiffoultoute Kasbah, offering
fine views from its terrace. It was
converted into a hotel in the 1960s
to provide rooms during the
shooting of David Lean’s Lawrence
of Arabia. It is now a restaurant.
2 Taourirt Kasbah
Road Map C4. Opposite the crafts
centre on the road out of Ouarzazate
leading to the Dadès valley. 8
Ouarzazate’s only historic

building, the Taourirt Kasbah
stands as a monument to
Glaoui expansionism. At the
beginning of the 20th century,
A shop in the crafts centre opposite the Taourirt Kasbah the Glaoui family were the
lords of the South and
1 Ouarzazate About 6 km (4 miles) outside controlled access to the High
Ouarzazate, off the road to Atlas. They were the first to
Road Map C4. * 70,000. @ Avenue
Mohammed V (to Marrakech, Tinerhir, Marrakech, are the Atlas Film collaborate with the French in
Taroudannt and Zagora) and grands Studios, surrounded by high the expansion of the latter’s
taxis (Tue, Fri, Sat, Sun). n Avenue pisé walls that look as if they are rule in the South.
Mohammed V; (0524) 88 24 85. Grands defended by giant Hollywood- Begun in the 18th century
taxis, Land Rovers and 4x4 vehicles for style, pseudo-Egyptian figures. and renovated in the 19th, the
hire. _ Crafts Festival (May); Moussem The studios, which cover 30,000 kasbah has been undergoing
of Sidi Daoud (Aug). sq m (322,920 sq ft) of desert, restoration from time to time
provide the livelihood of a since 1994. It once housed the
A former garrison town of considerable portion of the large Glaoui family, together
the French Foreign Legion, population of Ouarzazate. with their servants.
Ouarzazate was founded in Hundreds of films The façade,
1928, having been chosen by have been shot consisting of
the French as a strategic base in this region, high smooth earth
from which to pacify the South. including walls, is pitted and
Located at an altitude of 1,160 m Bertolucci’s The decorated with
(3,807 ft) at the intersection of Sheltering Sky geometric patterns
the Draa and Dadès valleys, with (1990) and Detail of a window in the in negative relief.
the Agadir region to the west, it Scorsese’s Kundun Taourirt Kasbah Inside, a maze
is on the main route between (1997). On the of staircases at
the mountains and the desert. other side of the town, opposite every level of the building leads
It is also a good base from the Taourirt Kasbah, are the to rooms of various sizes lit by
which to visit Aït Benhaddou Andromeda Italian film studios. low windows. The larger rooms
and the Skoura palm grove. have plasterwork decoration
Ouarzazate is a peaceful Atlas Film Studios featuring floral and geometric
provincial town with wide On road N9, 6 km (4 miles) northwest motifs, and colourfully painted
streets, many hotels and of Ouarzazate. Tel (0524) 88 22 23. wooden ceilings. There are also
municipal gardens. Avenue Open Studios: 8am–6:30pm daily; some tiny rooms with low rush-
Mohammed V, the only main 8 8:15am–5:15pm (until 6:45pm matted ceilings, doorless arches,
street, crosses the town and in summer) daily, except when red-tiled floors and white walls.
leads to the Dadès valley. filming is going on. Next to the kasbah is a former
most important tribe in

southern Morocco. This semi-
nomadic people never bowed
to the power of the sultans, and
they were the last to resist the
French at the Battle of Bou Gafer
in 1933. They live in ksour, but
take to tents for part of the year,
when they drive livestock to
seasonal pastures.
Jbel Sarhro is a region of
sheer rockfaces, plateaux and
blackish rocky escarpments. The
rugged territory is crossed from
Aït Benhaddou, which has often been chosen as a film location north to south by tracks, which
are best driven in a four-wheel-
Berber village, which probably play of light and shadow. drive vehicle (routes are
predates the kasbah. It is Behind the kasbahs stand plain seldom signposted).
inhabited by a busy population. earth houses. Today, the ksar is At the Baha Kasbah in Nekob
In the narrow winding streets inhabited by fewer than guides can be hired for hikes
of the ksar (fortified village), ten families. and tours in four-wheel-drive
you will find an Internet café, Beyond Aït Benhaddou, a vehicles. The route from Nekob
a former synagogue that now minor road leads to the ruined to the Tizi n’Tazazert Pass, at
serves as a carpet shop, and fortress of Tamdaght, once a 2,200 m (7,220 ft), is difficult, but
a herbalist. The crafts centre kasbah inhabited by the Glaoui. the spot known as Bab n’Ali is
opposite the Taourirt kasbah Its towers are now inhabited worth the visit for some striking
offers carpets, stone carving, by nesting storks. The road needle-like volcanic rock
jewellery and pottery, all at continues to Telouet, 32 km formations. The track to
relatively high prices. (20 miles) away. Boumalne du Dadès crosses the
Vallée des Oiseaux (Valley of
Birds), which is home to over
3 Aït Benhaddou 4 Jbel Sarhro 150 species of birds.
Road Map C4. 30 km (19 miles) Road Map: D4. 98 km (61 miles) south
northwest of Ouarzazate, off road N9. of Ouarzazate. From Tansikht to Nekob
n Ouarzazate; (0524) 88 24 85. on road R108, or from Boumalne du
Dadès. ( Sun in Nekob; Mon
Backing onto a pinkish in Ikniounn.
sandstone hill, the ksar of
Aït Benhaddou stands on the Stretching for over 100 km
left bank of Wadi Mellah. It is (60 miles), Jbel Sarhro is a wild
reached on foot from the village and inhospitable region that
on the opposite bank. The wadi is still off the tourist track. It is
is usually dry, except in winter separated from the main Anti-
and spring. Atlas chain by the Draa valley to
The picturesque village of the west and from the High
Aït Benhaddou, which has often Atlas by Wadi Dadès to the north.
been used as a film location, Jbel Sarhro is the territory of
can be explored without a the Aït Atta, who, from the 17th The Baha Kasbah in Nekob, at the foot of
guide. It was once fortified and 19th centuries, were the Jbel Sarhro
and has a now-ruined igherm
(communal granary). Built near
water and arable land, in a place
safe from foreign attack, it
contains an impressive group
of ochre pisé kasbahs.
Since the village was made
a UNESCO World Heritage
Site, some of its kasbahs have
undergone restoration to
their upper sections. The
kasbahs’ crenellated towers
are decorated with blind
arches and geometric designs
in negative relief, creating a Camels grazing in the rocky landscape of Jbel Sarhro
The Kasbah
Kasbahs (tighremt in Berber) have long fulfilled the role
of fortified castles, being places of refuge from attack for
people and animals, and affording protection from the
cold and other threats to safety. A lordly residence or
family dwelling, the kasbah is an imposing edifice built to
a square plan. While kasbahs in the mountain valleys are
Fortified Citadels
thick-set, those in the southern oases have a taller, more High walls set at a slightly oblique
slender outline. At the four corners are towers crowned angle give the kasbah a perfectly
with merlons rising above the height of the walls. proportioned outline.
Stepped merlons
Bricks are made from earth mixed with

water, sometimes with chopped straw
added. They are pressed into wooden
moulds and dried in the sun.
A Typical Kasbah
Their dimensions being dictated by the size
of the horizontally placed beams, the rooms
are often longer than they are wide. The
largest room is the reception hall, which
often has a painted ceiling and which is
reserved for men. The stable and sheepfold
are located on the ground floor.
Water Jar
Ancient pieces of
pottery like this one
can be seen in
restored kasbahs.
Windows
Mashrabiyya screens and
wrought-iron grilles, made
with no soldering, allow
the inhabitants to look out
without being seen.
Defensive Walls
The upper parts of the walls are decorated with geometric
patterns, incised motifs and blind arches cut into the pisé. Fortified Granary
The interior of the igherm or agadir
is divided into compartments where
maize, barley, sugar and cooking
vessels are stored.
The Kitchen
Circular loaves of bread,
made by the women,
are baked in a small
igloo-like earth oven.
The kitchen is often dark
and badly ventilated,
and cooking is done
on the earth floor.
Maize drying on
the roof
Painted Ceilings
Ceilings are painted with volutes, rosettes and
interlacing patterns, executed freehand or with a
compass. They are a feature of reception rooms of
kasbahs and wealthy houses.
Wooden
Doors
They can be
opened only
from within.
road follows a string of oases. pyramids. At Tinzouline, a track

Villages have grown up around to the right leads to a site with
the old kasbahs, on the edge of rock engravings, 7 km
the road and in the palm grove. (4 miles) away.
About 6 km (4 miles) from The valley narrows in the
Agdz, a track branching off to approaches to the Azlag gorge,
the left leads to the majestic to the right of which is a high,
ksar of Tamnougalt, which smooth cliff. Soon after, a
once controlled access to the signpost indicating “Circuit
trade routes of the Draa valley. Touristique de Binzouli” leads to
The interior reveals some the palm grove, which reaches
striking frescoes, which were Zagora on the other side of the
painted in pale colours for the river. Ochre pisé koubbas line
shooting of a film. the valley, while cemeteries are
Continuing along the left filled with the vertical flat stones
bank of the Draa, the track leads that are typical of Muslim
Detail of the interior of the ksar at to the pisé village of Tamnougalt, graveyards. Between Tissergate
Tamnougalt, in the Draa valley with narrow, partly covered and Zagora, the palm grove
streets. Visitors wishing to see the stretches away to the distant
5 Draa Valley old kasbah may like to bring a foothills of Jbel Rhart.
Road Map C-D4. 200 km (124 miles) torch, which is useful for viewing
between Ouarzazate and Zagora on its superb painted ceilings.
road N9. ( Thu in Agdz. Tamnougalt, which is currently 6 Zagora
undergoing restoration, also has
Road Map D4. * 30,000.
Rock engravings discovered near a former mellah (Jewish quarter) @ Ouarzazate or grands taxis.
Tinzouline show that the Draa with a synagogue. n (0524) 88 24 85. ( Wed & Sun.
valley was inhabited by warriors Back on the Draa valley road, _ Moussem of Moulay Abdelkader
from prehistoric times. The valley, the elegant Timiderte Kasbah Jilali at Mouloud.
where buildings are in a good comes into view on the left
state of preservation, contains a bank of the wadi, backing onto Established by the French
wealth of ksour and kasbahs. Jbel Sarhro. Villages and ksour authorities during the
The road between Ouarzazate here are rarely signposted. In Protectorate, Zagora is the most
and Agdz crosses the desert Tansikht, a narrow road turns off convenient base for exploring
plateaux of Jbel Tifernine. to the left towards Nekob, Jbel the region. The sign saying
Beyond Aït Saoun, hills of black Sarhro and Rissani, 233 km (145 “Timbuctu, 52 Days by Camel”
rock give way to steep canyons miles) away. The bridge over the evokes the great age of the
as the road climbs towards the wadi joins a sandy track that trans-Saharan caravans,
Tizi-n-Tinififft Pass, at 1,660 m passes through villages in the although the illusion is spoiled
(5,448 ft). To the north appear palm grove. To rejoin the road, by the presence of the large
the foothills of the High Atlas the river can be forded in concrete Préfecture behind it.
and to the east, Jbel Sarhro. several places. The village of Amazraou,
Agdz, an unassuming town Still leading in the direction set amid lemon, almond and
on the edge of a palm grove, of Zagora, the road passes the olive trees and gardens on the
is convenient for a short stop. Igdaoun Kasbah, with towers southern side of the town, is a
Between Agdz and Zagora, the in the shape of truncated haven of peace on the edge of
A camel trek through the peaceful palm grove in Zagora

abruptly in the middle of the

stony desert. From Tagounite,
a difficult track leads to the foot
of Jbel Tadrart and the beautiful
Nesrate Dunes.
8 Mhamid
Road Map D4. * 2,000. ( Mon.
This border post and small

administrative centre is the last
oasis before the great expanse of
the Sahara. To the south stretches
a stony desert, the Hammada du
Green-glazed pottery vessels characteristic of Tamegroute Draa. From Mhamid, Wadi Draa
sinks beneath the sand to
the desert. In the former The holy man’s works laid the reappear on the Atlantic coast
mellah, the mosque stands foundations of the Koranic 540 km (338 miles) to the west.
next to the abandoned Library. A collection of priceless The ruins of a ksar indicate
synagogue. Amazraou is manuscripts is displayed in one the former existence of a great
inhabited by Arabs, Haratines of the rooms. It includes an caravan centre, from which
and Berbers, who continue 11th-century gazelle-skin Ahmed el-Mansour’s army set
the Jewish tradition of Koran, books of calligraphy out in the 16th century to
making silver jewellery. with gold dust and saffron take Timbuctu.
By following a footpath illuminations, and
from the La Fibule treatises on algebra, Environs
hotel, the summit of astronomy and Arabic Coming from Zagora, the Tizi-
Jbel Zagora can be literature. Exposed to heat Beni-Selmane Pass, at an
reached in one hour. and light, these works are, altitude of 747 m (2,451 ft),
It is crowned by a unfortunately, not offers a stunning view of Jbel
military post and Mule in the in the best condition. Bani and the desert, which
commands a breath- Draa valley In the potters’ looks black since it is covered
taking view of the workshop outside, with volcanic stone. A little
valley. The remains of walls members of seven families further on, a track to the left
indicate the presence of the produce traditional functional leads to Foum-Rjam, one of
Almoravids in the 11th century. pots with a green glaze typical the largest prehistoric necro-
Several hotels offer tours in of Tamegroute ceramics. polises in the Maghreb.
four-wheel-drive vehicles or on Tumuli mark thousands of
camels. Lasting from a day to Environs graves. About 45 km (28 miles)
two weeks, the tours take in About 5 km (2 miles) south south of Mhamid, the Chigaga
the Chigaga dunes south of of Tamegroute, and off to the dunes, which can be reached
Mhamid, and Foum-Zguid, left, are the Tinfou Dunes, an only by four-wheel-drive
west of Zagora. isolated ridge of sand rising up vehicle, stretch to the horizon.
7 Tamegroute
Road Map D4. ( Sat. _ Moussem
of Sidi Ahmed ben Nasser (Nov).
Surrounded by ramparts, the

ksar at Tamegroute contains a
zaouia and a library. This great
centre of Islamic learning was
founded in the 17th century
by Mohammed Bou Nasri,
and its influence extended
throughout southern Morocco.
Beneath the arcades of the
courtyard, near the entrance
to the tomb of Mohammed
Bou Nasri, invalids and disabled
people gather, in the hope of
being cured. Camel and rider on the Tinfou Dunes, south of Tamegroute
(underground channels)
and wells dug at
regular intervals. Ruined
kasbahs stand among
palm trees, fig trees,
birch and tamarisk –
whose tannin-rich
flowers are used in
the processing of skins.
The most imposing is
Amerhidil Kasbah,
which was once owned Spectacular landscape at the approach to
by the Glaoui family the M’Goun valley
and which dominates
The palm grove at Skoura the wadi. The restored 0 El-Kelaa M’Gouna
interior is now open Road Map D4. n guides office;
9 Skoura to visitors. The kasbahs of (0524) 88 24 85 (Ouarzazate). ( Wed.
Road Map C4. @ from Ouarzazate
Aït Sidi el-Mati, Aït Souss, _ Rose Festival (May).
and Tinerhir. ( Mon. El-Kebbaba and Dar Aïchil are
also worth a visit. This town, whose name
The small sleepy town of Further east, Aït Abou, means “fortress”, is located at an
Skoura is surrounded by built in 1863 and the oldest altitude of 1,450 m (4,759 ft),
an impressive palm grove, kasbah in the palm grove, has in the heart of rose country. In
which was laid out in the six storeys and walls 25 m the 10th century, pilgrims
12th century by the Almohad (82 ft) high. Its outbuildings returning from Mecca brought
sultan Yacoub el-Mansour. have been turned into a small Rosa damascena back with them
The most beautiful kasbahs in short-stay gîte. An orchard to Morocco. These peppery-
southern Morocco are to be with pomegranate, apple, scented flowers have developed
found here. Some of these are pear, fig, quince and olive a resistance to the cold and
still partially inhabited, and trees provides the necessary dry conditions in which they
some are attached to private shade for growing crops. are now grown.
houses. Many of Skoura’s Twenty-five kilometres Each spring, rose-picking
inhabitants, however, have (15 miles) northeast of Skoura produces 3,000 to 4,000
moved into the breeze-block is the village of Toundout, tonnes of petals. The harvest
villages that line the road. where there are some highly is taken to two local distillation
The Ben Morro Kasbah decorated kasbahs. The factories. One of them, in
stands on the left of the road Marabout of Sidi M’Barek El-Kelaa M’Gouna, is laid out
above Skoura. It was built in served as a stronghold where in a kasbah, and it is open to
the 17th century and, now the semi-nomadic people visitors in April and May. While
completely restored, has been stored their crops, under the a proportion of the roses is
converted into a guesthouse. protection of the saint. used to make rosewater for
The entrance to the palm grove A little way beyond Skoura, local distribution, the rest is
is on the other side of Wadi towards El-Kelaa M’Gouna, processed and exported for
Amerhidil. The grove can be unexpected plantations of use in the perfume industry.
explored only on foot, by grasses imported from Australia The Rose Festival takes
bicycle or on mule-back. The in the 1990s help to preserve a place after the harvest and is
grove is irrigated by khettaras little moisture in the arid ground. attended by all the inhabitants
of the valleys of the Dadès.
Accompanied by a bendir (a
tambourine), young girls from
El-Kelaa M’Gouna perform a
sinuous dance, their long hair
braided with coloured wool.
On the road out of the town
is a craft cooperative with
about 30 workshops. Daggers
are made here, the craftsmen
continuing a Jewish tradition
of making sheaths and dagger
handles out of cedar or camel
bone. The steel blades are
made in the mountain village
of Azlague, not far from
The Amerhidil Kasbah, in the palm grove at Skoura El-Kelaa M’Gouna.
The Aït Benhaddou ksar, at sunrise
surrounded by fig, almond

and walnut trees and poplars.
About 2 km (1 mile) from
Boumalne, in a bend in the road,
stands the Aït Mouted Kasbah,
which once belonged to the
Glaoui. Here and there, large
constructions in brown breeze-
block, built by emigrants who
have returned to Morocco,
stand out as unfortunate
blots on the landscape.
As it rises, the road passes
some dramatic geological
limestone folds which have
been shaped by erosion. At
the foot of these natural
formations stand the ruins of
the Aït Arbi Kasbah. Further
on are the stone and pisé
Tamnalt Kasbahs, whose
slender towers rise up against
a backdrop of rocks that seem
to be pressed together sideways
like the fingers of a human hand.
The Rose Festival in El-Kelaa M’Gouna Beyond Aït Oudinar, the road
crosses Wadi Dadès, following
Environs the view stretches over the the bottom of the gorge
Between Skoura and El-Kelaa fertile Dadès Oasis. At Tizzarouine between sheer cliffs. It then
M’Gouna, kasbahs are set Kasbah, from where there are runs along the edge of deep
among greenery throughout fine views, guides offer tours canyons, home to royal eagles
the Dadès valley. The modern and camping trips in the High and vultures. On the plateau,
concrete houses that line Atlas and Jbel Sarhro. the valley widens again, and
the roads here are an artless attractive stone and pisé villages
imitation of these fine overlook the opposite riverbank.
traditional buildings. Ruined The road running up the
kasbahs are now part of the gorge from Boumalne du Dadès
local landscape. From offices is metalled as far Msemrir, 60 km
on the way out of El-Kelaa (37 miles) to the north. The final
M’Gouna, many hikes and tours stretch before Msemrir passes
by four-wheel-drive vehicle through much wilder country
are organized, particularly to than in the lower part of the
the Vallée des Roses and gorge. Beyond Msemrir, a track
to the ksar at Bou Thrarar, a that is passable only by four-
breathtaking mountain tour. wheel-drive vehicle leads east
Further into the interior of to the Todra gorge and north
the High Atlas some impressive to the High Atlas and Imilchil.
gorges lead to the remote
M’Goun valley. It is best to
hire a guide because the
tracks are not signposted.
The Aït Mouted Kasbah, in the
Dadès gorge
q Boumalne du
Dadès w Dadès Gorge
Road Map D4. * 13,000. Road Map D3. Grand taxi
n Tizzarouine kasbah; (0524) 88 24 from Boumalne du Dadès.
85 (Ouarzazate). ( Wed. ( Sat in Msemrir.
This pleasant stopping place Bordered by greenery,

at the beginning of the Dadès the course of Wadi Dadès
gorge is a regional administrative stands out against the rocky
centre. From the edge of the landscape. Cultivated land Tamnalt Kasbah in the Dadès gorge with a
plateau above the town, on the banks of the wadi is dramatic rocky backdrop
Wadi Todra flows through this

great geological fault and on
into the Tinerhir palm grove
(see above).
Two hotels make possible
an overnight stop in the Todra
gorge. The best time of day
to view the gorge is in the
morning, when the rays of the
sun break through between
the high cliffs on either side.
The cliffs soon widen and a
stony track leads to the village
of Tamtattouchte, 22 km
(14 miles) further on.
The Tinerhir oasis, stretching out along the banks of Wadi Todra
e Tinerhir lead through orchards and

Road Map D3-4. * 40,000. @ from
run along irrigation ditches.
Er-Rachidia and Ouarzazate, and This is a wonderful walk, as
grands taxis. n Hôtel Tombouctou; the Todra palm grove stretches
(0524) 88 24 85 (Ouarzazate). for 12 km (7.5 miles).
( Mon. On the other side of the wadi
are many semi-ruined ksour,
This lively town, the region’s where 50 to 100 families once
administrative centre, lies lived. The most interesting and
midway between the Draa most easily reached are the Aït
valley and the Tafilalt. Built Boujane Ksar and Asfalou Ksar.
on a rocky outcrop, it has Further north, about 5 km
an elongated layout. On its (3 miles) before the start of the
northern and southern sides gorge, there is an alternative
it is bordered by a lush route to the palm grove; this
palm grove laid out at the is via the Imarighen spring,
foot of arid hills and the “Spring of the
containing dozens of Sacred Fish”.
ksour and kasbahs. The Todra gorge, sandwiched between
With several silver Environs sheer cliffs
mines in the vicinity, At El-Hart-n-
Tinerhir is a wealthy Igouramene, south
town known for its of Tinerhir, craftsmen t Tamtattouchte
silver jewellery. To produce a bronze- Road Map D3. 36 km (22 miles) north
the west stands a coloured local of Tinerhir.
kasbah once owned pottery that is sold
by the Glaoui and in the souk. The The picturesque village of
now in a state Detail of the walls of sweep of road taking Tamtattouchte is located at
of disrepair. To Tinerhir Kasbah in El-Hart, Tadafalt the other extremity of the
the southeast is Aït and Agoudim offers Todra gorge, its earth houses
el-Haj Ali, the former mellah the opportunity to see many blending into the red-ochre
(Jewish quarter), whose ksour, some of which are tones of the mountains. Here,
houses make an interesting still inhabited. small plots of land that stand
architectural ensemble. North out from their arid, rocky
of the town stretches a palm surroundings are irrigated
grove irrigated by Wadi Todra. r Todra Gorge by Wadi Todra.
About 2 km (1 mile) from Tamtattouchte is the starting
Road Map D3.
the bridge across the wadi, point of tracks to the Dadès
on the road to the Todra Gorge, Sheer cliffs 300 m (985 ft) gorge to the west and Imilchil
a viewing platform commands high rise up dramatically each to the north, leading over
a stunning view. Here, guides side of the narrow corridor that passes, through gorges, across
with camels offer their services. forms the Todra gorge. These plateaux and over mountains.
However, visitors need no are the most impressive cliffs Ask a local for information about
assistance to walk down into in southern Morocco, and the state of tracks negotiable
the palm grove and follow the they are well known to by four-wheel-drive vehicles,
network of shady paths that experienced mountaineers. particularly after periods of
The village of Tamtattouchte, at the northern end of the Todra gorge, with several fine ksour
rainfall. Visitors should also The old fortified village of small corrals outside. A gate
be aware that no destinations Goulmima, 2 km (1 mile) east set at an angle opens onto
are signposted. on the road to Erfoud, is worth a second gate. On a small
the detour. Still inhabited, square within the walls stand
the Goulmima ksar, which a mosque and the well that
y Goulmima exemplifies southern Moroccan provides the ksar with water.
Road Map D3. @ from Er-Rachidia
defensive architecture, is The upper floors of some of
and Tinejdad. ( Mon & Thu. surrounded by walls set with the houses span the narrow
two massive towers. Cows and streets, providing a strange
Although it is set in the heart of sheep are enclosed within contrast of light and shadow.
the Rheris oasis, where about 20
ksour stand on the banks of Wadi
Rheris, the modern village of
Morocco’s Architectural Heritage
Goulmima is of no great interest The vestiges of past
to visitors. The inhabitants of ages and of a unique way
neighbouring ksour come to of life, kasbahs, ksour and
the village to buy supplies. granaries – all of them
The sturdiness of their built of earth – are the
fortifications make the ksour victims of neglect. The
here unusual. Their towers are kasbahs are crumbling,
remarkably high and, when tribal the once- luxurious
feuds were rife, they protected residences are abandoned
the inhabitants against the and clay walls are slowly
incursions of the Aït Atta, who disappearing into the
came to pillage their harvests. ground. The Moroccan
government seems
indifferent to the unique Detail of the Taourirt kasbah in Ouarzazate
value and interest of these
buildings. Aside from sparse and sporadic activity, action to
protect Morocco’s architectural heritage goes little further than
listing its monuments and drawing up conservation programmes
that produce no concrete results. The only active conservation
in Morocco is that resulting from European initiatives. Besides the
uncompleted restoration of the ksar at Aït Benhaddou, funded
by UNESCO, that of the granary at Igherm-n-Ougdal, on the road
to the Tizi-n-Tichka Pass, and of the Taourirt Kasbah in Ouarzazate,
the small number of kasbahs in the Dadès valley that have been
restored were saved by private funding. Private initiatives are
also responsible for the skilful restoration of the Ben Morro kasbah
and Aït Abou kasbah in Skoura and the Hôtel Tombouctou in
Tinerhir. Unfortunately, most of the Glaoui fortresses in the
The ksar at Goulmima, a labyrinth of valleys of the Atlas are being left to their fate.
narrow streets and alleys
The Southern and Eastern Oases

Southern and eastern Morocco have many oases. Their
existence depends on the presence of water, which is either
supplied by rivers flowing down from the mountains or
provided by an underground water table. Underground
water rises naturally at the foot of dunes or is pumped by
artesian wells or along underground channels known as
khettaras, some of them covering considerable distances.
This accounts for the fact that the oases are strung out in a Seguias are man-made
line along the Dadès, Draa and Ziz valleys. channels that criss-cross the
oasis, bringing water to the
crops and trees. Clay plugs are
sometimes used to divert the
Irrigation in the Oases water along particular routes.
Set in particularly hostile surroundings,
oases are a very fragile ecological Clay plugs are used to
environment that survives thanks only to direct the flow of water to
ceaseless human intervention. Many dams other parts of the oasis.
are built to control the flow of water in the
wadis, which, when they are in flood, can
devastate the plantations in the oases in
a few hours. Khettaras and seguias must
be regularly cleared.
Date palms, of which

there are many varieties,
produce abundant fruit.
A single tree can
provide 30 to 100 kg
(66 to 220 lb) of dates a
year. They are harvested
in autumn.
Animal-skin
container
Barley
Irrigation is produced by
khettaras, underground
channels that bring water to
the oasis. Here, the water is
either drawn from a well or is
Crops such as tomatoes, carrots simply forced to the surface
and lettuce, as well as fruit trees by gravity. The exact amount
such as fig and apricot, thrive in the of water needed for each
shade provided by the palm trees. crop is provided by seguias.
o ua r z a z at e & t H e S o u t H e r N o a S e S  281
Work in the fields is done by

women, who carry out all stages
in the cultivation of cereals and
various kinds of vegetables.
Water is channelled The tops of the shafts that

Arid zone
as it flows from Well are sunk to dig and then
the khettara. maintain the khettara are
visible on the surface.
Underground water gently

flows into the oasis.
Impervious layer
Clay
Spring
Temporary Temporary wadis, across

wadi which dams are built, feed
Dam across the
water to the various seguias
wadi
Main canal (seguia) in the oasis.
Animals of the Oasis

The common bulbul, rufous bush robin, house bunting
and doves are some of the more familiar birds seen in the
oases. Toads frequent the banks of the watercourses, geckos
and lizards cling to stone walls and the trunks of trees,
and scorpions hide under stones. During the night, jackals
occasionally approach places of human habitation. The fennec,
horned viper and herbivorous lizard rarely venture beyond
the dunes and rocks where they were born.
At Tinerhir, many seguias

channel water from Wadi Todra,
bringing it to the beautiful palm Herbivorous lizard Horned viper Fennec
grove nearby.
Majestic Jbel Ayachi, rising over extensive and sparsely populated desert plateaux
u Midelt as well as fossils and mineral passes through remote Berber

Road Map D3. * 20,000. @ from stones, are on sale in Souk hamlets. A turning off to the
Meknès, Rabat, Erfoud, Er-Rachidia Jedid. There is also a workshop left, at the Mit Kane forestry
and Azrou. n Timnaï Cultural Centre, in Kasbah Myriem, on the road hut, leads back to Midelt.
20 km (12 miles) north of Midelt; to Tattiouine, where carpets, The track that continues west
(0535) 36 01 88. ( Wed & Sun. blankets and high-quality leads eventually to Imilchil.
_ Apple Festival (Oct). embroidery are produced. It Disused lead and silver mines
used to be run by Franciscan in the impressive Aouli Gorge,
On the border between the nuns who taught the local 25 km (15 miles) northeast
High and Middle Atlas, Midelt Berber women these handicrafts, of Midelt, are sunk into the
is considered to be part of thus ensuring an income for mountainside. They were
southern Morocco. The small many families. abandoned in the 1980s, but
villages on each side of the the machinery is still in place.
road leading out of the town Environs
consist of traditional buildings The Cirque de Jaffar, a
that are very similar to those limestone gorge on the way out i Ziz Gorge
typical of southern Morocco. of Midelt, makes for the most Road Map D-E3. 88 km (55 miles)
While, at the beginning of the interesting tour here. However, south of Midelt on road N13.
20th century, Midelt was no the tracks that go there and
more than a modest ksar, under back, covering 79 km (49 miles), Wadi Ziz, which springs near
the Protectorate it became are tough going, being passable Agoudal, in the heart of the
a French garrison town. only from May to October and High Atlas, runs in an easterly
Located at the foot of Jbel only by four-wheel-drive vehicle. direction, then obliquely south,
Ayachi, which rises to a height The track along the hillside is level with the village of Rich.
of 3,737 m (12,264 ft), Midelt is overshadowed by the imposing It then carves a gorge in the
the starting point for tours. At outline of Jbel Ayachi, which mountains, irrigates the Tafilalt
an altitude of 1,500 m (4,923 ft), can be climbed without much then disappears into the
the town enjoys a continental difficulty. The Cirque de Jaffar is Saharan sands.
climate – very cold in winter set in a wild landscape of cedar, South of Midelt, beyond
and very hot in summer. oak and juniper growing in the Tizi-n-Talrhemt Pass, at an
Beautiful Middle Atlas carpets, stony ground. The winding track altitude of 1,907 m (6,259 ft),
forests give way to arid plains.
The fortified villages of the
Aït Idzerg tribe, as well
as a few old forts of the
French Foreign Legion,
line the road.
The Tunnel de Foum-
Zabel, or Tunnel
du Légionnaire, was
driven through
the limestone rock
here by the French
Foreign Legion in
1927, thus opening
a route to the south.
Berber women used to learn embroidery with the Franciscan sisters of Midelt The tunnel opens on
Ksour in the Oases

The Ziz valley is ksar country. The ksar (plural ksour) was
developed originally as a communal stronghold for sedentary
populations, to protect them against the incursions of bandits
and nomadic tribes that raided
the oases when the harvests had
been brought in. The defensive
design of these fortified villages
is connected to this warlike past.
The ksar usually overlooks the
oasis. Originally, the ksar consisted
of no more than a central alley
with family houses on each side.
Over time, it expanded to become
a village, with a mosque, a medersa
and granaries. Built of pisé and
Dates drying after the autumn harvest in earth bricks in its upper part, every
the Ziz gorge ksar bears the individual stamp of
its builders, who devised elaborate Detail of the ksar of Oulad
to the Ziz gorge, whose incised geometric patterns. Abdelhalim in Rissani
impressive red cliffs jut into
the Atlas. Two fine ksour, Ifri
and Amzrouf, both surrounded province. Here the palm groves p Source Bleue
by palm trees, stand here. of the Ziz and Tafilalt begin, de Meski
The Hassan-Addakhil dam, and the town also stands at the
contained by a thick dyke of start of the road to the south. Road Map E3. 23 km (14 miles) south
red earth, demarcates the lower Er-Rachidia, also an administrative of Er-Rachidia on road N13.
foothills of the Atlas. Built in and military centre, was built
1970, it irrigates the Tafilalt by the French in the early 20th The spring, located 1 km
and Ziz valleys and provides century, when it was known as (0.6 mile) off the main road, is a
electricity for Er-Rachidia. Ksar es-Souk. Its present name reappearance of Wadi Ziz, which
was bestowed in 1979 in runs underground for part of its
memory of Moulay Rachid, the course. The blue spring waters
o Er-Rachidia first of the Alaouites to overthrow flow from a cave at the foot
Road Map D3. * 62,000. k Saadian rule in 1666. Many ksour of a cliff into a pool built by
@ from Erfoud, Midelt, Ouarzazate here were abandoned after the Foreign Legion. The water
and Figuig. n Tourist office; (0535) 57 1960, when the Ziz broke its provides a natural swimming
09 44. ( Tue, Thu & Sun. banks, causing serious floods pool for the campsite in the
and washing away land. palm grove.
As a result of its strategic location Although they are busy, the The clifftop offers a view of
between northern and southern town’s perfectly straight, gridlike the oasis and the ruined ksar
Morocco, and between the streets hold scant appeal. A of Meski. The road to Erfoud (see
Atlantic seaboard and Figuig and craft centre offers locally made p284) also offers fine views of
the Algerian border, Er-Rachidia pottery, carved wooden objects the Ziz valley and the oases
became the main town in the and rush baskets. of Oulad Chaker and Aourfous.
Er-Rachidia, a town at the junction of roads leading south

Shop in Erfoud, selling fossils – a local speciality – and a range of craft items
a Erfoud The road is also bordered with Unfortunately, and despite

Road Map E4. * 10,000. @ from
many small craters – the tops care, for a century the trees
Fès, Er-Rachidia, Midelt, Rissani and of shafts down to khettaras. have suffered from Bayoud
Tinejdad, and grands taxis. ( daily. palm sickness – caused by a
_ Date Festival (Oct). Usine de Marmar microscopic fungus – and the
On road R702 to Tinejdad. effects of excessive drought,
Before the development of the Open 8am–noon & 2–4pm Mon–Sat. both of which can kill them.
town began in 1930, the French The October date harvest in
had set up a military post here the palm grove is a spectacular
to watch over the Tafilalt valley. s Tafilalt sight. Each owner climbs to
The Berber tribes put up a long Palm Grove the top of his tree and, as the
drawn-out resistance to the Road Map E4. South of Erfoud
grove resonates to the sound
establishment of French rule, on road N13. of machetes, bunches of dates
and the valley was one of the crash to the ground, falling in
last parts of southern Morocco Stretching out along the bends large orange heaps (they turn
to surrender. of Wadi Rheris and Wadi Ziz, brown as they ripen).
Erfoud’s checkerboard layout which run from Erfoud, the Symbols of happiness and
is a vestige of this military past. Tafilalt oasis nestles in a stretch prosperity, dates figure in many
This peaceful town, with an of greenery, extending beyond rituals, and in birth, wedding
extensive palm grove, is the Rissani. The oasis was once and burial ceremonies.
base for tours of the dunes a welcome stopping-place
of the Erg Chebbi. From the top for caravans, as they arrived
of the eastern borj, a small exhausted after weeks in d Rissani
bastion 3 km (2 miles) the desert. Road Map E4. * 15,000. @ from
southeast of Erfoud, the view Today, the inhabitants Meknès, Erfoud and Er-Rachidia, and
takes in a wide swathe of of the Tafilalt rely on it for grands taxis. ( Tue, Thu & Sun.
desert and palm groves. their livelihood: the 800,000
In October, the souk at date palms that grow here This small town on the edge
Erfoud overflows with dates are renowned for their fruit. of the Sahara marks the end of
of every variety. This is also the metalled road and the start
when the three-day Date of tracks into the desert. To the
Festival, at the end of the date east is the Hammada du Guir,
harvest, takes place. Both a a stony desert notorious for its
religious and a secular event, violent sandstorms.
the festival attracts local tribes. Rissani, built close to the
It begins with prayers at the ruins of Sijilmassa, was once the
mausoleum of Moulay Ali capital of the Tafilalt. Sijilmassa
Cherif in Rissani, 17 km (11 miles) is said to have been founded
to the south, and continues in 757–8 as an independent
with processions of people kingdom, becoming a major
dressed in traditional costume stopping place on the trans-
and with folk dances. Saharan caravan routes. Over
Polished marble containing the centuries, it became
fossils is Erfoud’s other main prosperous from trade in gold,
source of income. The cutting slaves, salt, weapons, ivory and
workshops, the Usine de Date harvest in the Tafilalt spices, reaching its peak in the
Marmar, is open to visitors. Palm Grove 13th and 14th centuries.
However, religious dissent

and the instability of the rival
tribes that regularly launched
raids on the city led to its
destruction. The first town had
a pisé wall on stone foundations
pierced by eight gates, and
contained a palace, fine houses,
public baths and many gardens.
A few vestiges of these emerge
from the sand just west of Rissani.
The Rissani Souk is one
of the most famous in the area.
Donkeys, mules, sheep and
goats are enclosed in corrals.
Stalls are piled with shining
pyramids of dates, as well as Erg Chebbi and the small rain-filled lake Dayet Srji
with vegetables and spices.
Beneath roofs made of palm- of sultans and, protected by a f Merzouga
matting and narrow pisé double earth wall, part of the Road Map E4. 53 km (33 miles)
alleyways, jewellery, daggers, royal treasury. southeast of Erfoud. ( Sat.
carpets, woven palm fibre About 2 km (1 mile) from
baskets, pottery and fine local the mausoleum stands the The small Saharan oasis
leather items, made from goat Oulad Abdelhalim Ksar. It of Merzouga, much damaged
skins tanned with tamarisk bark, was built in 1900 for the elder by floods in 2006, is famous
are laid out for sale. brother of Sultan for its location at the foot of
South of Rissani, Moulay Hassan, who the Erg Chebbi Dunes. These
a 20-km (13-mile) was made governor photogenic dunes, which
route marked by of the Tafilalt. The rise up out of the stony, sandy
many ksour crosses monumental desert, extend for 30 km
the palm grove. entrance, with (19 miles), and reach a
After 2.5 km elaborate decoration maximum height of 250 m
(1.5 miles) stands in its upper part, opens (820 ft). At sunrise or dusk, the
the Mausoleum of onto a labyrinth of half-light gives the sand a
Moulay Ali Cherif, dilapidated rooms. fascinating range of colours.
where the father of Two rooms still have Although they are nearer
Moulay er-Rachid, Well in the their painted ceilings. to Rissani, Merzouga and the
founder of the Oulad-Abdelhalim ksar The route takes Erg Chebbi dunes are easier to
Alaouite dynasty, is in many other ksour, reach from Erfoud. The services
laid to rest. The mausoleum including those of Assererhine, of a guide are not necessary,
was rebuilt in 1955, after it was Zaouïa el-Maati, Irara, Gaouz, except when high winds whip
damaged by a serious flooding Tabassamt and Ouirhlane. up the sand. From Erfoud,
of Wadi Ziz. A courtyard leads The ksar of Tinrheras, set on going in the direction of Taouz,
to the burial chamber, to which a promontory, also comes the metalled road degenerates
non-Muslims are not admitted. into view. into a track after 16 km
Behind the mausoleum are The road leading to the (10 miles). Beyond the Auberge
the ruins of the 19th-century Draa valley via Tazzarine and Derkaoua, visitors should follow
Abbar Ksar. This former Tansikht starts from Rissani. the line of telegraph poles.
residence once housed exiled The dunes come into
Alaouite princes, the widows view on the left. At
Merzouga, camel
drivers offer one-hour
to two-day tours of
the dunes.
Dayet Srji, a
small lake west of
the village, sometimes
fills with water during
the winter, after
sudden rainfall. It
attracts hundreds
of pink flamingoes,
storks and other
Procession at the foot of the Erg Chebbi dunes, during the Date Festival migratory birds.
SOUTHERN MOROCCO
& WESTERN SAHARA
The vast southwestern region of Morocco embraces a variety
of spectacular landscapes. The fertile Souss plain, an area
dotted with oases and extensive stony deserts, is bordered
by the rugged mountains of the Anti-Atlas. On the southern
Atlantic coast, sheer cliffs give way to large areas of dunes
linking Morocco to the Sahara and the republic
of Mauritania.
Six thousand years ago, hunters forced civilians reasserted Morocco’s claim to
northwards by the desertification of the region (see p62).
the Sahara moved into southwestern The great Souss plain, east of Agadir, lies
Morocco, as shown by the thousands at the heart of this isolated region. The
of rock engravings that have been commercially grown fruit and vegetables
discovered in the Anti-Atlas. The Arab here are irrigated by the underground
conquest in the 7th century inaugurated waters of Wadi Souss, and the surrounding
the age of the independent kingdoms. argan trees provide food for herds of black
An important point for trans-Saharan goats. To the south, the Anti-Atlas is the
trade between Morocco and Timbuctu, final mountainous barrier before the
the Atlantic coast was coveted from the Sahara. Its almost surreal geological folds,
15th century by the Portuguese and the shaped by erosion, alternate with verdant
Spaniards, who eventually colonized it oases. Stone-built villages, often with an
in the late 19th century, re-naming it agadir (fortified granary), cluster along
Río de Oro (Golden River). wadis or at the foot of mountains. Further
When Spain withdrew from western south, the wide deserted beaches are
Sahara in 1975, King Hassan II initiated sometimes cut off by lagoons that attract
the Green March during which 350,000 thousands of migratory birds.
Camel in the Sahara desert, southern Morocco

Houses with pink plaster in Agadir with the Anti-Atlas as a backdrop
Exploring Southern Morocco Agadir
and Western Sahara

Laayoune
All roads heading into the deep South begin at Agadir,
Morocco’s foremost coastal resort. To the east lies the great
Souss plain, which stretches north as far as the High Atlas
and south as far as the Anti-Atlas. This mountain chain of
rocky peaks and stony plateaux culminates on its eastern side
Area shown by map
in Jbel Siroua, a remarkable volcanic massif that reaches a below
height of 3,304 m (10,844 ft), and whose western side, pitted
with isolated valleys, slopes down towards the Atlantic. The
resort of Agadir is linked to Tafraoute to the southeast, and
to the numerous oases on the Saharan slopes of the Anti-
Atlas. The road south links Agadir with the Saharan provinces,
which start at the coastal town of Tarfaya. The focal points
of human life in the Sahara are a few large towns surrounded
by banks of dunes seemingly stretching to infinity.
Sights at a Glance
1 Agadir pp290–91 AT L A N T I C
2 Taroudannt
3 Igherm to Tata
O C E A N
4 Akka
Plage
5 Souss Massa Blanche
National Park
6 Tiznit
7 Sidi Ifni
8 Tafraoute
9 Guelmim Tan Tan Plage
0 Tan Tan and TAN TAN
Tan Tan Plage
Sand dunes along the coast between Tan Tan
q Tarfaya
Plage and Tarfaya
w Laayoune
Dar-Chebika
Reserve
Naturelle Sidi
Naila Akhfennir M'sied
TARFAYA
Abetteh
As-Sakn
El Hagounia
Daoura
Al Gada
LAAYOUNE
Smara
Dakhla

SOUTHERN MOROCCO & WESTERN SAHARA  289
Key
0 km 40
Motorway
0 miles 40
Major road
Minor road
Track
International border
Essaouira Disputed territory border
Marrakech
Summit
TAROUDANNT Ouarzazate Pass
s
AGADIR Wa d i S
ou
Tioute
Biougra
Inchadèn
SOUSS MASSA Igherm
Aït-Baha
NATIONAL PARK s
a
tl
Tizi-Touzlimt
Had-Belfa Pass
Sidi Moussa
Aglou
Tioulit
A IGHERM TO TATA
Jbel Lekst
2359m Souk-Khemis-
d’Issafen Tata
TIZNIT Assaka
TAFRAOUTE Foum Zguid
ti
Mirleft
Jbel Tililt
n 1739m
A Ida Oussemlal
Bou-Zarif
SIDI IFNI Souk-Tlata- AKKA
des-Akhasass
a
Oua-Belli ra
Bou-Izakarn d iD
Aït-Herbil Wa
Foum-el-Hassan
GUELMIM
El Abiar Aït Bekkou
Targoumait
Assa
iz
ui ne
AouÏnet-Torkoz r kz
s kalo a
Djeb
e l Ta
O u
b e l
Wadi Draa
D j e Getting Around
El-Mahbas
Although the network of roads
has improved considerably, the
roads that cross the Anti-Atlas
between Igherm and Tata, and
between Tiznit and Tafraoute, are
long and tiring to drive because
they are narrow and follow the
contours of the mountainside. By
contrast, the 650 km (404 miles)
between Agadir and Laayoune are
relatively easy to cover, except
when there are sandstorms. When
travelling through the Saharan
provinces it is extremely unwise to
leave the road because landmines
laid during the war between
Morocco and the Polisario Front
in the 1970s are still in place. The
border with Mauritania can be
crossed easily, as long as the
Tata, with many kasbahs and a palm grove required formalities are observed.
1 Agadir
Agadir, the regional capital of the South beyond the
Atlas, draws thousands of visitors a year. Its gentle climate –
temperatures range from 7 °C to 20 °C (45 °F to 68 °F) in
January, the coolest month – together with its sheltered
beach and hotels make it Morocco’s second tourist city after
Marrakech. Having been completely rebuilt in the 1960s
after the terrible earthquake that destroyed the city, Agadir
has none of the charm of traditional Moroccan towns,
although its wide-open spaces and its modernity appeal to Camel and horses seen on the beach
at Agadir
many holiday-makers. The industrial quarter consists of oil
storage tanks and cement works, as well as factories where strip of greenery, contains
fish is canned (Agadir is Morocco’s foremost fishing port) aviaries with a multitude of
and where fruit from the fertile Souss plain is processed. exotic birds. A small zoo features
mouflons (wild mountain
sheep) and macaques. There
Nouveau Talborj of the commemoration of is also a play area for children.
Agadir’s modern centre, the the reconstruction of Agadir,
Nouveau Talborj, was built south forty years after the violent Polizzi Medina
of the old city, which earthquake that Ben-Sergaou. 10 km (6 miles) south of
was completely razed destroyed the Agadir, towards Inezgane. Tel (0528)
as the result of the city. The museum 28 02 53. Open 9am–6pm daily.
earthquake of 1960. exhibits everyday This medina was created by
The main streets objects derived Coco Polizzi, an Italian architect,
of the city centre run from the peoples who used traditional Moroccan
parallel to the beach. of the Souss plains building methods. Houses,
Pedestrian areas, lined and the pre-Saharan restaurants and craft workshops
with restaurants, shops regions. Among have been built in the medina.
and crafts outlets are the exhibits is a
concentrated around Traditional rich collection of } Beach
Boulevard Hassan II doorway magnificent Berber South of the city, the sheltered
and Avenue du Prince jewellery, superbly beach, in a bay with 9 km
Moulay Abdallah. displayed alongside information (6 miles) of fine sand, is Agadir’s
There are some fine modern on how the jewellery main attraction, offering some
buildings, including the post was made. of the safest swimming off
office, the town hall and the Morocco’s Atlantic coast.
stately law courts. The city’s F Open-Air Theatre However, although the city
bright white buildings are Boulevard 20 Août. enjoys 300 day of sunshine
interspersed by many gardens. Concerts, shows and music a year, it is often shrouded
festivals take place here in mist in the morning.
E Musée Municipal du throughout the year. Sailboards, jet-skis and water
Patrimoine Amazighe scooters can be hired on the
Avenue Hassan II, passage Ait Souss. } Vallée des Oiseaux beach, and rides, on horses
Tel (0528) 82 16 32. Open 9:30am– Avenue Hassan II. Open 9am–noon & or camels, are also on offer.
5:30pm Mon–Sat. & 3–6pm Tue, pm–Sun. Many cafés, hotels and
This museum was opened on This open space in the heart of restaurants line the beach.
29 February 2000, on the day the city, laid out on a narrow
P Old Kasbah
At an altitude of 236 m (775 ft),
the hilltop ruins of the kasbah,
within restored ramparts, offer
a stunning view of Agadir and
the bay. The kasbah was built
in 1540 by Mohammed ech-
Cheikh, to keep the Portuguese
fortress under surveillance.
It was restored in 1752 by
Moulay Abdallah and
accommodated a garrison
of renegade Christians and
White houses in Agadir, a city completely rebuilt in the 1960s Turkish mercenaries.
Agadir’s History
The origins of Agadir are Practical Information
not fully known. In 1505, a * 609,000. n Immeuble
Portuguese merchant built a Ignouan, Boulevard Mohammed
fortress north of the present V; (0528) 84 63 77. ( Tue–Sun.
city. This was acquired by
Transport
King Manuel I of Portugal and k Agadir El- Massira, 22 km
converted into a garrison. By
(13.5 miles) on the road to
then, Agadir had become a
Taroudannt. @ from Casablanca,
port of call on the sea routes
The German cruiser Berlin off Agadir Essaouira, Marrakech & Tiznit.
to the Sudan and Guinea. A
in 1911
century of prosperity began
in 1541, when the Portuguese were expelled by the Saadians.
The Souss fell under the control of a Berber kingdom in the
17th century, but Moulay Ismaïl later reconquered the region.
In 1760, Sidi Mohammed ben Abdallah sealed the city’s fate
when he closed its harbour and opened one in Essaouira. In
1911 Agadir was the object of a dispute between the French
and the Germans relating to its strategic location. On 29
February 1960 an earthquake destroyed the city.
Port is processed. An auction

Located on the edge of takes place in the fish market
the city, the port consists of a here every afternoon. Agadir
large complex with about 20 also exports citrus fruit, fresh
canning and freezing factories vegetables, canned food The busy, bustling port at the popular city
where the produce of the sea and ore. of Agadir
Agadir City Centre

1 Nouveau Talborj
BO
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2 Musée Municipal du
Patrimoine Amazighe
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3 Open-Air Theatre
UN
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4 Vallée des Oiseaux

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Patrimoine Amazighe
Open-Air Theatre
Airport
Polizzi Medina 22 km (14 miles)
TIZNIT
0 metres 400
0 yards 400

dominates the palm grove.

This was the location for the
film Ali Baba and the Forty
Thieves, made by Jacques
Becker in 1954.
A restaurant adjacent to the
kasbah rather spoils the site.
On the banks of Wadi Souss,
which attracts migratory birds,
stands the older Freija kasbah,
now uninhabited.
Between Taroudannt and
Ouarzazate, the road (N10)
passes through a landscape of
The imposing ramparts of Taroudannt wild beauty. Plains covered with
argan trees give way to the
2 Taroudannt an alliance with Ahmed Ibn volcanic massif of Jbel Siroua,
80 km (50 miles) east of Agadir.
Mahrez, the dissident nephew which bristles with peaks and
* 36,000. @ from Casablanca, of Moulay Ismaïl. The latter where soft geological folds
Agadir, Marrakech & Ouarzazate, or regained control of the region alternate with rocky plateaux.
grands taxis; Thu & Sun. ( Berber by massacring the inhabitants. Taliouine, a town between
souk daily. _ Moussem (Aug). Taroudannt is a generally two mountain chains at an
peaceful town, except during altitude of 1,180 m (3,873 ft),
Enclosed within red-ochre the annual olive harvest when it has a stately kasbah once owned
ramparts and encircled by is enlivened by itinerant pickers. by the Glaoui (see p61). Though
orchards, orange groves and On its two main squares, Place dilapidated, it is still inhabited.
olive trees, Taroudannt has all Assarag and Place Talmoklate, The town is the centre of the
the appeal of an old Moroccan horse-drawn carriages can be world’s biggest saffron-growing
fortified town. It was occupied hired for a tour of the ramparts, area. In Tazenakht, 85 km
by the Almoravids in 1056 and which are 7 km (4 miles) (53 miles) east of Taliouine,
in the 16th century became long. Set with bastions and beneath Jbel Siroua, carpets
the capital of the Saadians, who pierced by five gates, they are with an orange weft are woven
used it as a base from which in a remarkably good state of by the Ouaouzguite tribe.
to attack the Portuguese in preservation, a part of them
Agadir. Although the Saadians dating from the 18th century.
eventually chose Marrakech The souks, between the two
as their capital, they made squares, are the town’s main
Taroudannt wealthy through attraction. The daily Berber
the riches of the Souss plain, market sells spices, vegetables,
which included sugarcane, clothing, household goods,
cotton, rice and indigo. pottery and other items. In the
Under the Alaouites, the town Arab souk the emphasis is on
resisted royal control, forming handicrafts: terracotta, wrought
iron, brass and copper, pottery,
leather goods, carpets and
Berber jewellery of a type once
made by Jews can be seen.
Carvings in chalky white stone Hot and arid desert landscape in the
are a speciality of Taroudannt. Anti-Atlas
Outside the ramparts is a
small tannery, which is open 3 Igherm to Tata
to visitors. Its shop sells goatskin Road N10 east from Taroudannt, then
and camel-hide sandals, lambskin road R109 to Tata. @ Taroudannt,
rugs, soft leather bags, belts Tiznit, Agadir & Bouizarkane. ( Souk
and slippers. Wed in Igherm, Thu in Tata.
Environs A relatively new road (built in

The peaks of the western High 1988), the N10 crosses the
Atlas – particularly Jbel Aoulime, Anti-Atlas, passing through
at a height of 3,555 m (11,667 ft) some remarkable landscapes.
– can be reached via road 7020, Between Taroudannt and
north of the town. About 37 km Igherm, argan fields alternate
The daily Berber market in the town (23 miles) southeast of Taroudannt, with dry-stone villages over-
of Taroudannt the imposing Tioute Kasbah looking terraced plantations.
be seen walking around the

well-watered gardens, except
when the Thursday souk is on.
Some 30 ksour stand in the
great Tata Palm Grove, where
Berber and Arabic are spoken.
Crossing Wadi Tata, which
irrigates the grove, the road
leads to Agadir-Lehne, where
a stone koubba stands below a
spring. Some 4 km (2.5 miles)
further on are the Messalite
caves, which are inhabited
sporadically by shepherds.
Saffron flowers, harvested for their stigmas
Saffron from Taliouine 4 Akka
Saffron (Crocus sativus) is a bulbed herbaceous plant that belongs 62 km (39 miles) southwest of
to the iris family. It grows at altitudes of 1,200 to 2,000 m (4,000 to Tata on road N12. * 6,500.
6,600 ft), in slightly chalky soil. Almost 6 sq km (2.3 sq miles) of saffron ( Souk Thu & Sun.
fields around Taliouine are cultivated by families, each of which tends
its own plot of land. The bulbs are planted in September at a density The Akka palm grove lies north
of 7,500 per 1,000 sq m (10,760 sq ft), and the mauve flowers appear of the village. A dozen ksour are
at the end of October. Harvesting takes place before sunrise and goes interspersed among the date
on for 15 to 20 days. It is a delicate process, involving the separation palms and the pomegranate, fig,
of the red stigmas that contain the colorant from the plant. After
peach, apricot and nut trees. On
drying, 100,000 flowers produce 1 kg (2.2 lb) of saffron, and just
a hill is Tagadirt, a mellah, now in
1 gram (a tiny pinch) is enough to colour 7 litres (12 pints) of liquid.
The precious powder is then poured into airtight boxes and stored ruins, where the rabbi Mardoch
away from daylight to preserve its flavour. Good-quality saffron is was born in 1883. He discovered
sold in the form of whole filaments. Saffron is used in food, as a ancient rock engravings in the
dye for carpets and pottery, and for dyeing the hair and hands of area and accompanied the French
brides. It is also a medicinal plant that is thought to aid digestion ascetic Charles de Foucauld,
and calm toothache. disguised as a Jew, on his
peregrinations (see p221).
The Aït-Rahhal springs in the
Igherm, 94 km (58 miles) copper jars (situle) which they palm grove supply the oasis.
southeast of Taroudannt, is a carry on their heads. A strange brick-built minaret
large mountain village at an Between Igherm and Tata dating from the Almohad
altitude of 1,800 m (5,908 ft). It is the road crosses a rugged period can also be seen here.
the base of the Ida Oukensous desert plain, with mountains
tribe, renowned for the daggers of folded strata in hues of
and guns that they make. The ochre, yellow and violet. The
houses here are built of pink Tizi-Touzlimt Pass, at 1,692 m
stone, their windows outlined (5,553 ft), is followed by a
in blue. Women dressed in succession of oases. In the Souk-
black and wearing coloured Khemis-d’Issafen palm grove
headbands fetch water in tall women dressed in indigo can
The troglodytic granary at Aït-Herbil,

still in use
Environs
Many rock engravings can be
seen at Foum-el-Hassan, 90 km
(56 miles) southwest of Akka on
the road to Bouizarkane (road
N12), and at Aït-Herbil. To visit
them, you need to hire a guide
(details from Café-Hôtel Tamdoult
in Akka). There are also many
igherm (granaries) here, some
The koubba at Agadir-Lehne, in the Tata Palm Grove dug into the cliff face.
Greater flamingoes flying in the Souss Massa National Park
5 Souss Massa Only certain areas of the park of the French Protectorate in
National Park are open to the public. Visitors Morocco, El-Hiba conquered
should approach the wadi from the Souss by rallying the tribes
65 km (40 miles) south of Agadir on Sidi Rbat. The best time to see of the Anti-Atlas and the Tuareg
road N1; 50 km (31 miles) north of the birds is early in the morning, to his cause. He launched an
Tiznit on road N1.
from March to April and attack on Marrakech, where he
Created in 1991, the Souss October to November. was repulsed by French troops.
Massa National Park extends It is possible to walk round the
along the banks of Wadi Massa, 5-km (3-mile) pink pisé ramparts
which, en route to the Atlantic, 6 Tiznit that encircle the town. The
irrigates a large palm grove. 91 km (57 miles) south of Agadir on
méchouar, a rectangular parade
This nature reserve, where road N1. * 45,000. @ from Agadir, ground that functioned as the
river and sea water meet, Safi, Guelmim and Tafraoute, or grands pasha’s reception courtyard, is
where tides ebb and flow, taxis. n ONMT Agadir. ( Souk Wed lined with arcades beneath
and where winter temperatures & Thu. _ Moussem of Sidi Ahmed ou which are cafés and shops. The
are mild, attracts hundreds of Moussa (Aug), 35 km (22 miles) east renowned craftsmen of Tiznit still
migratory birds. of Tiznit. work with silver here, as the Jews
The reed beds on the banks once did, producing chunky
of the wadi are inhabited by Located slightly inland from Berber jewellery, daggers and
greater flamingoes from the the coast, Tiznit is a small town sabres with inlaid handles.
Camargue, in southern France, where the proximity of both The vertical poles on the
and from Spain, as well as the Atlantic and the desert can clay walls of the minaret of the
godwit, turnstone, snipe, dunlin, be felt. In 1881, Sultan Moulay Grand Mosque are put there to
coots, grey heron and many Hassan settled here in order to help the souls of the departed
other species. The primary exert greater control over the enter paradise.
purpose of creating the park dissident Berber tribes of
was to preserve the bald ibis, the Souss. Environs
a species threatened with The town came to fame in Sidi Moussa Aglou, 15 km
extinction. Morocco is home to 1912, when El-Hiba, a populist (9 miles) northwest of Tiznit,
half the world’s population of rebel leader, was proclaimed is a fine beach used by surfers.
this curious bird, which has a sultan of Tiznit in the mosque. Caves in the cliffs are used
pink featherless head. Opposed to the establishment by local fishermen.
7 Sidi Ifni
75 km (47 miles) south of Tiznit.
* 20,000. n ONMT Agadir.
@ Tiznit or grands taxis. ( Souk
Sun. _ Moussem (end of Jun).
From Tiznit, a scenic minor

road leads to the coast, which
it follows until Sidi Ifni. Formerly
a Spanish coastal enclave, the
town, on the crest of a rocky
plateau overlooking the ocean,
is buffeted by wind and is often
Women spreading washing out to dry on the banks of Wadi Massa shrouded in sea mist. The
Beach with the backdrop of the red cliffs of Legzira, around Sidi Ifni
colonial style of some of the

buildings – such as the former
Monk Seals
Spanish Consulate and the The largest colony of monk seals (Monachus monachus) in
Hispano-Berber Art Deco church the Mediterranean area is found along the Atlantic coast, in the
that is now the law courts – gives very south of Morocco. In 1995, 200 seals still existed here but
the town an unusual aspect. half the colony was destroyed by disease in 1998, and it faces a
very uncertain future. This brown seal can grow to a length of
3 m (10 ft) and weigh up to
8 Tafraoute 300 kg (660 lb). During the 20th
century it has disappeared from
143 km (89 miles) southeast of Agadir. the Canary Islands archipelago,
Road N1 from Agadir then road R105; Madeira and most of the islands
road R104 from Tiznit. * 1,700. of the Mediterranean. Today, it is
@ Tiznit and Agadir, or grands taxis. still to be found in the Black Sea
n ONMT Agadir. ( Souk Tue & Wed. and on the Bulgarian and Turkish
Mountain bikes can be hired in coasts, and it may still survive in The monk seal, facing an
the town centre. Sicily and Sardinia. uncertain future in Morocco
At an altitude of 1,200 m
(3,938 ft), Tafraoute stands Environs
in the heart of a stunning Jean Vérame’s painted rocks
valley of the Anti-Atlas. It is can be seen 3 km (2 miles)
surrounded by a cirque of north of Tafraoute. The smooth,
granite whose colours at the rounded rocks, painted by
end of the day change from the Belgian artist in 1984,
ochre to pink. The palm groves rise chaotically from a lunar
here are lush and, for the brief landscape. Although their
period of their flowering – colours – red, purple and blue –
two weeks in February – the have faded, the effect is
almond trees are covered The fortified village of Tioulit perched still surreal.
with clouds of pink and on a hilltop About 4 km (2.5 miles)
white blossom. further north is the fertile
The square dry-stone houses Limited local resources have Ameln Valley, carpeted
consist of a central courtyard forced them to leave their with orchards and with
and a tower. They are rendered homeland, so that their villages olive and almond trees. It is
with pastel pink plaster and are today inhabited only by dotted with 26 Berber villages
their windows are outlined children, elderly people and perching on the mountain
with white limewash. women shrouded in black. side, above which runs a
Tafraoute is the territory of the However, as soon as they can, precipitous mountain chain
Ameln, the best known of the the émigrés return to build culminating in Jbel Lekst, at
six tribes of the Anti-Atlas. They comfortable houses. 2,359 m (7,743 ft). Taghdichte,
are renowned for their acumen Tafraoute is also a centre for the highest village, is the
as traders. As spice merchants, the manufacture of round-toed starting point for the ascent
they have spread throughout slippers, in natural, red, yellow of Jbel Lekst.
Morocco and also abroad. or embroidered leather. North of Tafraoute, on the
road to Agadir, is the igherm
(communal granary) of Ida ou
Gnidif, on the top of a hill. A
little further on is the fortified
village of Tioulit, perched on
another outcrop and looking
down into the valley.
About 3 km (2 miles) south
of Tafraoute a cluster of huge,
strangely shaped rocks known
as Napoleon’s Hat overlooks the
village of Agard Oudad. A one-
day detour from Tafraoute leads
to the Afella Ighir Oasis. Laid out
along the wadi, it is filled with tiny
gardens, palm trees and almond
trees clinging to the cliffs. Beyond
the point where the road
becomes a rough track, a four-
Houses in Tafraoute, covered in pink plaster wheel-drive vehicle is needed.
q Tarfaya
235 km (146 miles) south of Tan Tan.
@ from Tan Tan or grands taxis.
The spectacularly scenic route

between Tan Tan and Tarfaya
follows the coastline, where
cliffs give way to dunes of
white sand.
Tarfaya, today an expanding
fishing port, was a stop on the
Service Aéropostale, the French
airmail service, in the 1920s and
1930s. There is a statue of writer
and airman Saint-Exupéry who
has left vivid descriptions of
flying over this desolate region
Angling from the cliff-top near Tan Tan Plage in terrible sandstorms. It was
also the rallying point for the
9 Guelmim beautiful Aït Bekkou Oasis, Green March of 1975 (see p62).
56 km (35 miles) south of Sidi Ifni. 17 km (11 miles) to the southeast,
* 38,000. n (0528) 87 29 11. is the largest in the area.
@ from Agadir, Marrakech, Laayoune
and Tan Tan, or grands taxis. ( Camel
0 Tan Tan and Tan
souk (Sat). _ Moussem of Asrir (Jul).
Tan Plage
Also known as Goulimine, 125 km (78 miles) southwest of
this small settlement of red Guelmim on road N1. * 50,000. ~
houses with blue shutters was an @ Agadir, Tarfaya and Laayoune, or
important centre on the caravan grands taxis. _ Moussem of Sheikh
route from the 11th to the 19th Ma el-Ainin (May/Jun).
centuries. Today, it is known chiefly
for its camel souk. The moussem The province of Tan Tan is
of Asrir, 6 km (4 miles) southeast, is sparsely populated by pastoral
attended by the Sahraouis, known nomads and fishermen. The road
as the “blue men” because of their from Guelmim is good but police Boundless expanses of desert near
indigo clothing. checks are frequent since the Laayoune
region remains a military zone.
Environs Tan Tan has a certain raffish w Laayoune
Fourteen kilometres (9 miles) to charm, with everything from 117 km (73 miles) south of Tarfaya.
the north are the Abeino thermal shops and mosques to the petits * 100,000. k from Agadir,
springs with bathing pools for taxis painted in blue or mustard. Dakhla and Tan Tan. @ from Agadir,
men and women. The vast Plage In the medina, Saharan-style Dakhla and Tan Tan. n Avenue de
Blanche (White Beach), 60 km bric-a-brac is for sale and there l’Islam; (0528) 89 16 94.
(37 miles) west of Guelmim, can is a colourful Sunday souk. A
be reached along tracks. The moussem held in May or June, A large oasis on Wadi Sagia
honouring local resistance el-Hamra, Laayoune is today
hero Sheikh Ma el-Ainin, is the economic capital of the
the occasion of a huge camel Saharan provinces. Since Spain
market. At night women dance relinquished the territory in
the guedra in tribal tents. 1975 (see p62), Morocco has
On the coast, 25 km (15 miles) invested in making Laayoune
away, is Tan Tan Plage where a modern town.
low-key tourism development Dakhla, 540 km (335 km)
has begun. further south, stands on the tip
of an attractive peninsula. The
Environs bay is one of the most beautiful
Road R101 leads across the places in the country and an
desert to Smara, about 245 km internationally renowned spot
(152 miles) south of Tan Tan. for kite surfing. Dakhla is the last
Today no more than a garrison town before the border with
base, this legendary town put Mauritania, 350 km (217 miles)
A trader at the famous camel souk up fierce resistance to the away. The border can be
in Guelmim expansion of French rule. crossed easily.
The Nomad’s Tent

The khaïma, or nomad’s tent, seen on the desert plateaux of the High Atlas, outside
the towns of Zagora and Guelmim, is the moveable home of shepherds who travel to
provide their flocks with seasonal grazing. The sturdy tent is easy to set up and gives
protection against the heat. The brown fabric is woven from goat or camel hair. It
consists of flijs, strips 40 to 60 cm (16 to 24 in) wide, sewn together edge to edge. It
rests on a ridgepole supported on two vertical wooden poles. The interior of the tent
is divided into two. One side, with basic cooking equipment and a loom, is for the
women. The other side, separated by a screen, is reserved for the men and for visitors.
Nomads are rarely seen

because they mostly
frequent mountain or
desert environments that
are remote from civilization.
However, for a few weeks of
the year, some of them settle
in an oasis. Their tents are
very simply furnished, with
little more than thick, heavy
carpets and wooden chests
where the women keep
their most prized possessions.
The hospitality of the nomads
is legendary.
The nomad’s tent is set up on level ground. In summer, the

covering is laid over the poles in such a way as to allow air to Nomadic Berber women card
circulate freely. In winter, the sides are drawn together and are wool before spinning it into
insulated with long woollen blankets and carpets. yarn. Using a loom unchanged
since ancient times, they weave
blankets and lengths of cloth.
These nomads, portrayed in a century-old Driving animals to seasonal pastures occurs in

photograph, lived in a way that hasn’t Morocco’s more arid regions. In summer, the nomads
changed much to this day. Nomads still travel take their herds and flocks up to the high pastures of
from one source of water to another. the Atlas, returning to the south in winter.
Travellers’
needs
Where to Stay 302–313

Where to Eat and Drink 314–331
Shopping in Morocco 332–337
Entertainment
in Morocco 338–341
Sports & Outdoor
Activities 342–345
302  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
Choosing a hotel in Morocco depends riads of ancient Fès, the kasbahs of the
primarily on its location and the types of mountains, and an increasing number of
services travellers seek during their stay desert-style encampments in and around
in the country. In recent years, a rise in eco- the Sahara. The range of decor, price,
tourism and exploration, rather than simple amenities and standards is huge, and
holiday-making, has resulted in greater visitors should have no trouble finding
accommodation choices. There are still the accommodation to suit their budget and
ultra-flamboyant and opulent alternatives – needs. For those with smaller budgets, youth
most often found in Marrakech – and beach hostels and guest rooms are attractive
resorts in places such as Agadir, but there alternatives so long as visitors are happy
are also the guesthouses of Essaouira, the to observe the ground rules.
Once bearing little relation

to reality, the system by which
stars are awarded has been
overhauled. Although some
hotels may still be over-
ambitiously graded, many have
been downgraded to reflect
more accurately the standard
of accommodation that they
offer. Note, however, that these
stars may not quite match
European standards.
As a general rule, four-
and five-star hotels are
well equipped, with satellite
televisions, telephones, Wi-Fi,
en-suite bathrooms and room
service, as well as many other
features such as a restaurant,
The warmly lit patio at La Maison Arabe, in Marrakech (see p311) swimming pool, sports centre
and hammam. Two- and three-
Choosing a Hotel along the roads between them, star hotels are comfortable and
The location of a hotel, especially so that rather than planning an clean, with private baths or
in large towns and cities, is an itinerary route according to the showers. The small one-star
important criterion. It is usually desirability of a hotel, it is best hotels, or hotels without
best to stay somewhere near to choose where to stay in classification, are often quite
the old town, where the main relation to the distance you basic and may not be very
tourist sites are often found. intend to cover each day. clean. It is advisable to ask to
The disadvantage of such a Information about hotels is see the room before deciding.
location, however, is that the available from the Fédération
hotel will probably be noisy Nationale de l’Industrie
and unlikely to offer parking. Hôtelière in Casablanca.
For those desirous of more
space, especially a garden –
and many gardens also have Classification of Hotels
swimming pools – it is best to and Services
choose a hotel on the edge The Moroccan Ministry of
of the old town or in a Tourism has devised an official
modern quarter. system of classification for
Smaller towns rarely offer hotels. Accordingly, hotels are
high-class accommodation, graded on a scale of one to five
especially in the south. Here, stars, with two sub-categories,
your choice of hotel should A and B. In principle, each grade
be governed by your itinerary. corresponds to certain standards
In the south, most places of of comfort, as well as other
interest to tourists are not in criteria such as the size of Stylish lounge in Jardins de Roses in the
the towns themselves but the establishment. Sofitel Rabat (see p306)
Colourful ceramics on display at a souk in Essaouira
W H E R E TO S TAY  303
Prices At these busy times, it is many boast slick, modern

By law, prices must be shown essential to make a reservation facilities, but the country
in the reception area of a hotel in advance. This can be done also offers some legendary
as well as in the rooms, and this at a travel agency, through a establishments, such as the
requirement is widely fulfilled. tour operator that covers all of charming La Mamounia in
Be aware, however, that adver- Morocco, on the Internet, or Marrakech. Dating back to
tised prices rarely include tax by contacting hotels directly. 1923, this opulent hotel has
(ranging from 1 to 25 dirhams, One consequence of the beautiful gardens and is set
according to the town and the European-style hotel manage- in a peaceful location within
hotel) and that they do not ment that has taken root in the old medina. The luxurious
include the cost of breakfast. Morocco is the practice of and elegant Hôtel El-Minzah
The average price of a overbooking. Put simply, in Tangier (see p309) looks
single room in a small one- the hotel accepts more like something from a film
star or unlisted hotel is 150 reservations than it has rooms, set and, although it is showing
dirhams. A two- or three-star so as to compensate for any its age, it is still one of
establishment will charge cancellations. Unfortunately, Morocco’s great hotels.
250 to 400 dirhams, and a if you happen to be a victim
three-star category-A hotel of this practice, there is little
or a four-star hotel can charge that can be done to salvage Camp Sites
anywhere from 400 to 1,000 the situation. The best way to Camp sites can be found in
dirhams. The numerous five- try to avoid this happening is every large town, and there
star hotels charge 1,200 to pay for your stay in full at are many dotted on the
dirhams, and some over the time of booking and check Atlantic and Mediterranean
2,000 dirhams. There is no in at the hotel earlier rather coasts. As a general rule,
official upper limit. than later in the day. standards of cleanliness in
Prices vary according to the camp sites leave much to be
season, and it is not unusual desired, and it is not safe to
to see prices double around Chain and Luxury Hotels leave property unattended
the holiday periods at the end The Accor Group manages in tents. Staying in a camp site
of the year as well as in spring, multiple international hotel in Morocco is also something
and during the summer in the brands such as Sofitel and that best suits those who are
coastal resorts. Prices also vary Mercure, which can be found in not too fussy about hygiene
according to the number of most major towns and cities. and facilities.
people renting the room. For Since its purchase of the Ibis Finding your own place to
example, for a child or a third group it is developing budget set up camp outside desig-
adult sharing a room, a supple- hotels throughout the country. nated sites is not officially
ment will be charged, though Leading international hotel unlawful, but it is definitely
usually with a reduction of 5 chains such as Hyatt and not recommended for reasons
to 50 per cent. Le Méridien also have several of personal safety and also
Negotiating a lower price establishments in Morocco. because the authorities do
for a hotel room is common Of the large number of not like tourists camping
practice, and it bears results. luxury hotels in Morocco, anywhere they please.
At slack times, it is possible to
obtain reductions of up to 30
per cent. However, it is a waste
of time trying to negotiate at
the peak of the high season,
or in the very smart hotels,
such as Marrakech’s La
Mamounia (see p311).
Reservations
During the high seasons,
the crowds of holiday-makers
can be unexpectedly large.
At such times, in small towns
that have a limited number
of hotels (particularly in the
south), it can be quite
impossible to find a room.
This may also be true in towns
with a much larger choice of
hotels, such as Marrakech or Fès. Rooftop of the Sefrou’s Dar Attamani (see p311) offering fine views of the town
Disabled Visitors
Apart from some modern
hotels, few establishments
in Morocco are equipped for
disabled visitors. Nevertheless,
Moroccans are very well
disposed to anyone needing
help, so that people with
disabilities will be pleasantly
surprised at the thoughtfulness
and helpfulness that they
encounter across the country.
Riads
The literal translation of the
The swimming pool in the grounds of Dar Ayniwen, Marrakech (see p312) Arabic word riad is “garden”.
Thus a riad should consist,
Guesthouses and membership card may be asked theoretically, of a garden
Guest Rooms to pay a little extra. The easiest way planted with trees. By extension,
Guesthouses can be a useful to obtain a card is to join your the word riad is applied to all
option for those spending a country’s Youth Hostel Association, old houses that have at least
few days away from the large for example the YHA in Britain a patio or courtyard. These old-
tourist coastal resorts. or the Hostelling International style houses can be found in
In small seaside villages, USA in the United States. the medinas, and many have
where it is sometimes very Information in Morocco become available to visitors,
difficult to find accommodation, is available from the Fédération especially in Marrakech, Fès
many Moroccans offer rooms Royale Marocaine des Auberges and Essaouira.
in their own houses. Comforts de Jeunes in Casablanca. These traditional residences
are often basic and, before each have their own particular
accepting the room, it is wise architectural design and have
to check the cleanliness of the Unmarried Couples usually been restored very
bedclothes and that toilets In Morocco, strict rules apply to well. Converted into guesthouse
and washing facilities are in the accommodation of couples. accommodation, they are
working order. A Muslim cannot sleep with a very pleasant places to stay
Often, when travelling in woman if the couple is unmarried. in, particularly because they
the Atlas, rather than left to Some hoteliers scrupulously are quiet, naturally cool and
camp in the open, visitors may respect this ruling, although because of their often excellent
be offered space in a living allowances are normally made location. By contrast to a large
room, or on the roof of a pisé for Western couples. international hotel, staying in a
house, which can be a magical However, it is possible that riad is usually a more culturally
experience. The owner of the you will be asked to present enriching experience.
house (often the village chief ) your marriage certificate. Either individual rooms or
will steadfastly refuse money, Similarly, same sex couples the whole riad can be rented,
and may even invite guests to may encounter difficulties and many also offer breakfast
share a meal. You can always when dealing with highly and an evening meal. No
offer a gift, or deal with the devout hoteliers. official grading applies to
women of the house, who will
often accept remuneration or
a present for their children.
Never give children gifts directly
as this might offend.
Youth Hostels
There are several youth hostels
in Morocco, and these make it
possible to stay in the country
for a minimal cost. However, most
youth hostels are not centrally
located and are quite basic,
although they are usually clean.
Travellers without an international
Youth Hostel Association The atmospheric interiors of Riad d’Or (see p310) in Meknès
this type of accommodation,

and standards, service and
prices vary widely according
to the individual riad.
It is worth noting that a riad,
by its very nature, is traditional
and is therefore unlikely to
offer the spacious lounges and
glittering bars that a top-priced
modern hotel would supply.
While some riads are run by
people who have only a vague
idea of the hotel business, others
are exceptional and better
options than standard hotels,
such as the Villa des Orangers
(see p312) in Marrakech, which
will delight those who love old
buildings and who expect a Stylish and sophisticated decor at the La Sultana (see p308) in Oualidia
high standard of service.
Organizations such as many different regions and too diverse to list all the
Marrakech-Medina and Fès so many exceptional cultural establishments of note, while
Medina Morocco (US based) contrasts to shape its in the Middle Atlas and Sahara,
can help book riads. architecture, cities and views, the entries are limited by the
it can be difficult for visitors scarcity of options available.
to choose a place to stay. This The entries marked “DK
Recommended Hotels guide takes into account the Choice” comprise particularly
Morocco is a country of needs of many different styles special accommodation options.
great contrasts, of lush valleys of travel, loosely categorizing All offer something unique and
and high mountains, stretches accommodation on offer in memorable: from atmospheric
of open fertile fields, crashing each area: Value, Modern, riads and the grandest of
waves of the Atlantic coast, Historic, Boutique and Luxury. ancient palaces in Fès to
calmer waters of the These choices are intended luxurious retreats in the Atlas
Mediterranean and sweeping to help find something for mountains, where one can
sandy dunes, peppered with everyone. In some cases – such enjoy stunning views and
the occasional oasis. With so as in Marrakech – the choice is gaze at the stars.
DIRECTORY
Choosing a Hotel Hôtel Novotel Hostelling Marrakech-Medina
(Casablanca) International USA Rue Dar el Bacha,
Fédération Nationale 8401 Colesville Road, Marrakech.
Tel (0520) 48 00 01.
de l’Industrie Suite 600, Silver Springs, Tel (0661) 56 46 66.
Hôtelière Fax (0522) 46 65 01. MD 20910, USA. ∑ marrakech-
320 Boulevard Zerktouni, ∑ mercure.com Tel 240 650 2100. medina.com
2040 Casablanca. ∑ hiayh.org
Hôtel Sofitel
Tel (0522) 26 73 13/14. Fédération Royale
(Marrakech)
Fax (0522) 26 72 73. Marocaine des
Tel (0524) 42 56 00.
∑ fnih.ma Auberges de Jeunes
∑ sofitel.com 6 Place Ahmed
Hotel Chains el Bidaoui, Ancienne
Youth Hostel Médina, Casablanca.
Hôtels Ibis Moussafir Associations Tel & Fax (0522) 22 76 77.
(Accor group) Email frmajhostel@
Tel (001) 80 02 21 45 42 England & Wales gmail.com
(central reservations). Youth Hostel
Riads
∑ accorhotels.com Association (YHA)
Trevelyan House, Fès Medina Morocco
Hôtel Mercure
Matlock, Derbyshire 516 San Miguel Canyon
(Rabat) Rd, Royal Oaks, California
Tel (0530) 20 03 94. DE4 3YH.
95076. Tel (831) 724 5835
Fax (0537) 72 45 27. Tel 01629 592 700. Fax (904) 212 8814.
∑ mercure.com ∑ yha.org.uk ∑ fesmedina.com
Where to Stay
CITY CENTRE: Hotel Mercure Price Guide
Rabat Sheherazade  Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
Modern Map C2
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
AGDAL: Ibis  21 Rue de Tunis
Modern Map C2 Tel (0530) 20 03 94  up to 1,000 dirhams
Pl de la Gare, Agdal ∑ mercure.com  1000 to 2,000 dirhams
 over 2,000 dirhams
Tel (0530) 20 03 93 Small for a hotel bearing such a
∑ ibishotels.com name, this is a welcoming place
In a convenient location, the Ibis with jewel-like decor. SKHIRAT PLAGE: Hotel
has predictably good standards L’Amphitrite Palace 
of cleanliness, decor and service. CITY CENTRE: Riad Dar Modern Map C2
El Kebira  Skhirat Plage
CITY CENTRE: Art Riad  Riad Map C2 Tel (0537) 62 10 00
Riad Map C2 Rue des Consuls No.1, Impasse ∑ lamphitrite-palace.com
16 Rue Essam Belghazi, Ferrane Znaki This is a comfortable out-of-town
∑ artriad.com Tel (0537) 72 49 06 option for families with kids and
The sister property of nearby ∑ darelkebira.com larger groups.
Riad Kalaa, this is a stylish, yet Unlike other modernized high-
reasonably priced, place to stay. end hotels, the Riad Dar El Kebira SOUISSI: Sofitel Rabat
is a gem of Moorish architecture. Jardins de Roses 
CITY CENTRE: Dar Mayssanne  Luxury Map C2
Riad Map C2 CITY CENTRE: Riad El Maati  Aviation Souissi
13 Rue Faran Khechen Riad Map C2 Tel (0537) 67 56 56
Tel (0661) 06 66 66 15 Sidi el Maati ∑ sofitel.com
∑ rabat-riad.com Tel (0537) 72 57 16 Part of Sofitel Luxury Hotels and
Cosy, stylish rooms are tastefully ∑ riadelmaati.com Resorts, this urban oasis has
decorated with great attention This little-known, expertly run impressive gardens and a bar.
to detail here. Welcoming staff. and beautiful riad is owned by
a French/Moroccan couple. SOUISSI:
CITY CENTRE: Le Pietri Villa Mandarine 
Urban Hotel  Luxury Map C2
Modern Map C2 DK Choice 19 Rue Ouled Bousbaa
4 Rue Tobrouk CITY CENTRE: Tel (0537) 75 20 77
Tel (0537) 70 78 20/70 79 22/70 91 30 Riad Kalaa  ∑ villamandarine.com
∑ lepietri.com Riad Map C2 This luxurious mansion-like place
In a quiet street, this hotel offers a 3–5 Rue Zebdi has airy, light-filled rooms and
contemporary setting combining Tel (0537) 20 20 28 peacocks in magnificent gardens.
comfort and practicality. Live ∑ riadkalaa.com
music on Tuesdays and weekends. Riad Kalaa has all the nooks,
crannies, tiled stairways and
CITY CENTRE: A L’Alcazar  alcoves befitting a 200-year-old Northern Atlantic
Riad Map C2
4 Impasse Benabdellah Bab Laalou
medina mansion. Learn to cook
in the riad’s kitchens, have a
Coast
Tel (0537) 73 69 06 steam or treatment in the ASILAH: Berbari 
∑ lalcazar.com traditional hammam or simply Guesthouse Map D1
This stunning century-old cool off in the rooftop pool. Medchar Ghanem
building close to the main sights Tel (0660) 29 54 54
has impressive traditional interiors. ∑ berbari.com
CITY CENTRE: Golden Tulip A quirky, much-loved bohemian
Farah Rabat  retreat, this is a great place for
Modern Map C2 families to let off steam.
Place Sidi Makhlouf
Tel (0537) 23 74 00 ASILAH: Dar Manara 
∑ goldentulipfarahrabat.com Riad Map D1
Known for its reliable standards 23 Rue M’Jimaa
of amenities and service, this Tel (0539) 41 69 64
hotel offers relaxed poolside ∑ asilah-darmanara.com
dining and barbecue facilities. Dar Manara is a good option
for those on a budget who do
CITY CENTRE: La Tour not wish to sacrifice comfort.
Hassan  Book ahead.
Luxury Map C2
26 Rue Chellah BP 14 KENITRA: Hotel Europe 
Tel (0537) 23 90 00 Value Map C2
∑ latourhassan.com 63 Av Mohammed Diouri
La Tour Hassan boasts typical Tel (0537) 37 14 50
Moorish architecture that oozes This simple, basic establishment
Moroccan style, and yet has a offers decent, clean rooms, an
The luxurious Sofitel Rabat Jardins de distinctive European flavour. The adequate little restaurant and
Roses in Souissi tasteful rooms are well equipped. friendly service.
LARACHE: La Maison Haute 

Value Map D1
6 Derb Ibn Thami
Tel (0665) 34 48 88
∑ lamaisonhaute.free.fr
More a guesthouse than a hotel,
this place affords a glimpse into
real Morocco. As the name
implies, there are plenty of stairs.
MOULAY BOUSSELHAM:
Hotel Le Lagon 
Value Map D1
Centre de Moulay Bousselham
Tel (0537) 43 26 50 Simple and classy bedroom interiors at The Repose in Salé
This hotel offers both lagoon
and Atlantic views, expansive CITY CENTRE: Best Western CITY CENTRE:
if somewhat plain communal Toubkal  Hyatt Regency 
areas, neat rooms and a Modern Map C2 Luxury Map C2
good bar. 9 Rue Sidi Belyout Place des Nations Unies
Tel (0522) 31 14 14 Tel (0522) 43 12 34
MOULAY BOUSSELHAM: ∑ hoteltoubkal.com ∑ hyatt.com
La Maison des Oiseaux  Its amenities and reliable Expect a full range of amenities
Value Map D1 reputation make this a good and facilities here, including
Douar Riah choice for both tourists and several restaurants and bars, plus
Tel (0537) 43 25 43/(0661) 30 10 67 business travellers. well-trained, efficient staff.
Located in the fishing village
at the entrance to Moulay CITY CENTRE: Hotel Club
Bousselham, this is a tranquil Val d’Anfa  DK Choice
guesthouse set in a lush garden. Modern Map C2 CITY CENTRE: Sofitel
Corner Blvd de l’Océan Atlantique & Tour Blanche 
Blvd de la Corniche Luxury Map C2
DK Choice Tel (0522) 79 70 70/79 71 71 Rue Sidi Belyout
SALÉ: The Repose  ∑ valdanfahotel.com Tel (0522) 45 62 00
Riad Map C2 Combining modernity with ∑ sofitel.com
17 Zankat Talaa, Salé Medina tradition, this hotel set in lovely Elegant and extremely
Tel (0537) 88 29 58 gardens has an outdoor impressive, this Sofitel has
∑ therepose.com swimming pool and overlooks attractive interiors and a
Striking a good balance the fine Ain Diab beach. popular and very stylish lounge
between traditional and serene, and bar. Housed in a 24-floor
this guesthouse with lots of CITY CENTRE: tower, it offers sweeping views
character and elegant decor Kenzi Tower Hotel  of the Atlantic and local
is very reasonably priced for Luxury Map C2 landmarks. There are two superb
what it offers, including a Blvd Mohammed Zerktouni fine-dining restaurants,, as well
complimentary three-course Tel (0522) 97 80 00 as a spa offering beauty
breakfast. The riad’s few rooms – ∑ kenzi-hotels.com treatments, a hot tub and a
all suites – are in high demand, Occupying one of the Twin traditional-style hammam.
so book ahead. Center skyscrapers, this hotel has There are also good , conference
a spa and indoor pool. Its 28th- facilities for business travellers.
floor Sky Bar offers great views.
SALÉ: Riad Marlinea 
Riad Map C2 CITY CENTRE: Palace CORNICHE: Four Seasons
17 Derb Hrarta, Bab Malkaa, Medina d’Anfa  Hotel Casablanca 
Tel (0537) 88 37 34 Modern Map C2 Luxury Map C2
Enjoy traditionally decorated 171 Blvd d’Anfa Blvd de la Corniche
rooms and ample communal Tel (0522) 95 42 00 Tel (0529) 07 37 00
seating areas. This riad can be ∑ lepalacedanfa.ma ∑ fourseasons.com/casablanca
difficult to find, so phone ahead It may not be swanky, but this Cool and avant-garde, this
for directions. hotel has good amenities, such beachfront hotel’s spacious
as a pool. It also offers great rooms have balconies over-
ocean views. looking the ocean or gardens.
Casablanca CITY CENTRE: Le Doge HABOUS: Riad Jnane

Hotel and Spa  Sherazade 
CITY CENTRE: Luxury Map C2 Riad Map C2
Hotel Guynemer  9 Rue du Docteur Veyre 88 Rue 8
Value Map C2 Tel (0522) 46 78 00 Tel (0522) 82 44 44
2 Rue Mohammed Belloul, ∑ hotelledoge.com ∑ jnanesherazade.com
Casa-Anfa Arty interiors and sumptuous In a traditional villa, this tranquil
Tel (0522) 27 57 64 fabrics have infused new life into hotel has lovely gardens and
This family-run budget option this wonderful 1930s structure. offers modern comforts. The
stands out thanks to the personal Guests have free access to the traditional hammam offers
quality of the service offered. hamman, sauna and hot tub. beauty and health treatments.
For more information on types of hotels see pages 302–5
Southern Atlantic
Coast
DAR BOUAZZA:
Hotel des Arts 
Modern Map C2
1120 Jack Beach
Tel (0522) 96 54 50
This stylish hotel occupies a
prime location in this pleasant
beach resort and surfers’ paradise.
EL-JADIDA: L’Igelsia 
Historic Map B2
Eglise Espagnole de Saint-Antoine
de Padoue
Tel (0523) 37 34 00
∑ liglesia.com
A 19th-century building that was Sophisticated decor at the Mazagan Beach Resort, El-Jadida
once a Spanish convent is now
beautifully decorated in 1930s style. ESSAOUIRA: Villa Maroc  CITY CENTRE: Ibis Tanger
Riad Map B4 City Center 
Rue Abdellah Ben Yassine Value Map D1
DK Choice Tel (0524) 47 31 47 Lotissement Tanger Offshore Plazza
EL-JADIDA: Mazagan ∑ villa-maroc.com Tel (0539) 32 85 50
Beach Resort  Interconnected riads provide ∑ ibishotel.com
Modern Map B2 an impressive 21 rooms with The reliable Ibis provides good
Mazagan Beach Resort carefully crafted boho-chic decor. service, as well as modern,
Tel (0523) 38 80 00 comfortable rooms.
∑ mazaganbeachresort.com ESSAOUIRA: Heure Bleue
One of the most extensive Palais  CITY CENTRE: Dar Chams
resorts on the entire Moroccan Riad Map B4 Tanja 
coast, this place has so many 2 Rue Ibn Batouta, Bab Marrakech Riad Map D1
facilities on site that guests Tel (0524) 78 34 34 2 Rue Jnan Kabtan
rarely venture out of the ∑ heure-bleue.com Tel (0539) 33 23 23
complex. As well as extensive Elegantly French-colonial in style, ∑ darchamstanja.com
spa and golf facilities, it offers this high-end establishment has Providing artistic accommodation,
several activities for families a rooftop pool, banana palms this is a favourite with regular
with kids. An unforgettable and splendid rooms. visitors to the city. Book ahead.
luxury experience.
ESSAOUIRA: Sofitel Medina CITY CENTRE:
and Spa  Hotel Continental 
ESSAOUIRA: Dar L’Oussia  Luxury Map B4 Historic Map D1
Riad Map B4 Domaine Mogador 36 Rue Dar Baroud
4 Rue Mohammed Ben Messaoud, Tel (0524) 47 94 00 Tel (0539) 93 10 24
Bab Sbaa, Medina ∑ accorhotels.com ∑ continental-tanger.com
Tel (0524) 78 37 56 White Moorish architecture and In 1888, Queen Victoria’s son,
∑ riad-darloussia.com lush gardens combine to impart Alfred, was among this eccentric
This riad-style building is both a distinct character. hotel’s first guests. Something of
bright and airy, with a great roof a Tangerine institution.
terrace and extensive spa. OUALIDIA: La Sultana 
Modern Map B3 CITY CENTRE: Maison
ESSAOUIRA: Riad 3 Parc a Huitres Arabesque 
Mogador  Tel (0523) 36 65 95 Riad Map D1
Riad Map B4 ∑ lasultanahotels.com 73 Rue Naciria, Medina, Place Sakaya
Route de Marrakech On the edge of a lagoon known Tel (0679) 46 68 76
Tel (0524) 78 35 55 for its oyster beds, this is an ideal ∑ maison-arabesque.com
∑ ryadmogador.com place to relax and unwind. Built in 1898 in the Spanish-
The interplay of neutral colours Moorish style, this guesthouse
and contemporary decor here manages to effortlessly blend
gives the impression of a chic the old and new. No credit cards.
apartment rather than a hotel. Tangier
CITY CENTRE:
ESSAOUIRA: Villa De L’O  CITY CENTRE: Dar Jameel  La Tangerina 
Riad Map B4 Value Map D1 Historic Map D1
3 Rue Mohammed Ben Messaoud 6 Rue Mohammed Bergach, Medina 19 Riad Sultan Kasbah
Tel (0524) 47 63 75 Tel (0539) 33 46 80 Tel (0539) 94 77 31
∑ villadelo.com ∑ magicmaroc.com ∑ latangerina.com
The monochrome interiors mixed This small hotel with five floors is Housed in a charming colonial-
with traditional styling give this set around a central courtyard. It style building, this hotel offers
18th-century colonial riad lives up to its name, “The House views over the medina and Strait
a fashionable boutique feel. of Beauty”, perfectly. of Gibraltar from the roof terrace.
For key to prices see page 306
CITY CENTRE: CHEFCHAOUEN: Casa Perleta  TETOUAN: Hotel Marina

El-Minzah Hotel  Riad Map D1 Smir Thalasso & Spa 
Luxury Map D1 Bab el Souk Luxury Map D1
85 Rue de la Liberté Tel (0539) 98 89 79 Rue de Sebta
Tel (0539) 93 58 85 ∑ casaperleta.com Tel (0539) 97 12 34
A historical landmark with lots of This quaint blue-and-white riad ∑ hotelmarinasmir.com
glamour, the El-Minzah provides has antique painted doors and This sprawling whitewashed
outstanding service and facilities. tiled floors. building in beautiful gardens is
Wi-Fi is available in all rooms. one of the area’s best options.
CHEFCHAOUEN: Dar Gabriel 
Riad Map D1
DK Choice Bab Souk
FURTHER AFIELD: Tel (0539) 98 92 44 Fès
Villa Josephine  ∑ dargabriel.com
Luxury Map D1 A pretty and snug getaway, CITY CENTRE:
231 Rue de la Vieille Montagne Dar Gabriel has views of the Rif Dar Bensouda 
Tel (0539) 33 45 35 mountains and welcoming Riad Map D2
∑ hotel-villajosephine.com wood-burning stoves during 14 Zkak el Bghel, Elquettanine
This stunning property has winter. No credit cards. Tel (0535) 63 99 49
more of a French Riviera ∑ riaddarbensouda.com
or country house feel than a OUJDA: Atlas Terminus The surprisingly affordable rooms
riad or dar – timeless, romantic and Spa  at this restored palace offer
decor, stunning gardens, great Value Map F2 gorgeous mountain views.
service and delicious food. Blvd Zerktouni, Place De La Gare
Steeped in legend and history, Tel (0536) 71 10 10 CITY CENTRE: Riad
it makes for a remarkable stay. ∑ hotel-atlas-terminus-oujda.com Laaroussa 
Despite being a little dated, this Riad Map D2
hotel has comfortable rooms and 3 Derb Bechara, Talaa Sghira
an impressive set of amenities. Tel (0674) 18 76 39
∑ riad-laaroussa.com
Mediterranean Coast OUJDA: Ibis  Enjoy the cool courtyard in
& the Rif Value
Blvd Abdellah
Map F2 summer, and the blazing fires in
winter, at this deluxe guesthouse
AL-HOCEIMA: Suites Hotel Tel (0532) 11 02 80 in a 17th-century palace.
Mohammed V  ∑ ibishotel.com
Value Map E1 This Ibis hotel is an attractive CITY CENTRE:
Pl Mohammed VI whitewashed place with lots of Riad Numero 9 
Tel (0539) 98 22 23/24 charm and well-equipped rooms. Riad Map D2
∑ hrm.ma Derb Lamsside
This small, refurbished SAÏDIA: Be Live Tel (0535) 63 40 45
establishment is a good base Grand Saidia  ∑ riad9.com
from which to explore the region. Luxury Map F1 Antique-filled interiors make for
Parcela H7, Station Balnéaire Saïdia delightful rooms and lounges. No
CAP SPARTEL: Tel (0536) 63 33 66 credit cards. Closed in August.
Le Mirage  ∑ belivehotels.com
Luxury Map D1 Suited to groups and families, this
Les Grottes d’Hercule huge resort has many amenities, DK Choice
Tel (0539) 33 33 32 plus access to golf and beaches. CITY CENTRE:
∑ lemirage.com Palais Amani 
Stay in luxurious bungalows on TETOUAN: Blanco Riad  Luxury Map D2
clifftops overlooking the Atlantic Riad Map D1 12 Derb El Miter
and the Mediterranean; a 25 Rue Zawiya Kadiria Tel (0535) 63 32 09
memorable place to unwind. Tel (0539) 704 202 ∑ palaisamani.com
∑ blancoriad.com The beautiful interiors of this
This lovely boutique hotel is set remarkable building, which was
in a building that once housed once a palace, display muted
the Spanish Consulate. but traditional design and offer
all modern comforts. It also has
ornate formal gardens. Regarded
DK Choice as the top place to stay in the old
TETOUAN: Riad El Reducto  town, Palais Amani offers rooms
Riad Map D1 with excellent medina views.
No. 38, Zawya Zanqat
Tel (0539) 96 81 20
∑ elreducto.com CITY CENTRE:
Impressive, intricately tiled Riad Ibn Battouta 
rooms and heavily adorned Riad Map D2
communal areas are the Av Allal El Fassi
highlights of this well-run Tel (0535) 63 71 90/(0671) 65 42 17
family lodging. The location ∑ riadibnbattouta.com
is excellent, just a stone’s This renovated mansion on the
The plush and comfortable Be Live throw from the royal palace. edge of the medina has high-spec
Grand Saidia suites and a series of terraces.
CITY CENTRE: Zalagh Parc with luxurious rooms and MEKNÈS: Riad d’Or 
Palace Fes  amenities, including a large pool Riad Map D2
Luxury Map D2 and fitness centre. 17 Rue Ain El Anboub and Lalla
Lotissement Oued Aicha Adouia
Tel (0535) 94 99 49 Tel (0535) 53 38 71
∑ zalagh-palace.ma ∑ riaddor.com
One of the city’s largest hotels, Meknès and Winding staircases and intricate
this place has individually styled
suites, three pools, a fitness
Volubilis carvings are the features of this
large townhouse with a roof
centre, a restaurant and offers terrace offering city views.
excellent views of the city.
DK Choice MEKNÈS: Palais Didi 
MEDINA: Dar Roumana  MEKNÈS: Riad Anne Riad Map D2
Riad Map D2 de Meknes  7 Dar Lakbira
30 Derb El Amer, Zkak Rouman Riad Map D2 Tel (0535) 55 85 90
Tel (0535) 74 16 37 4 Derb Sidi M’Barek Bab Bardaine ∑ palaisdidi.com
∑ darroumana.com Tel (0679) 15 63 38 Enjoy the rich Moroccan decor
This spectacular riad has ∑ riadannedemeknes.com and the views of the old imperial
luxurious rooms with With excellent service and city from this historic building.
handcrafted furnishings. The a lovely decor for a hotel in The hotel organizes guided tours
spacious roof terrace offers the budget bracket, this of Meknès in various languages.
views of the medina and Atlas charming little place is a
mountains. Attentive staff. lesson on how to run a good MOULAY IDRISS:
establishment in an area that Dar Zerhoune 
MEDINA: Dar El-Ghalia  does not present the traveller Value Map D2
Riad Map D2 with a wide range of choices. 42 Derb Zouak, Tazga
15 Ross Rhi Ras Jnane No credit cards. Tel (0535) 54 43 71
Tel (0535) 63 41 67 ∑ darzerhoune.com
∑ riadelghalia.com This great guesthouse with views
This little gem of a palace MEKNÈS: Riad La Maison of the ruins provides electric
dating from the 19th century has D’a Cote  blankets and duvets in winter.
authentic Moroccan decor, Riad Map D2
comfortable suites and fine food. 25 Derb Lakhouaja VOLUBILIS: Volubilis Inn 
Tel (0535) 53 51 01 Modern Map D2
MEDINA: Ryad Mabrouka  ∑ riadmaisondacote.com Ruins of Volubilis
Riad Map D2 Stay in one of the serene rooms Tel (0535) 54 44 05
Talaa K’bira Derb el Miter at this intimate guesthouse ∑ hotelvolubilisin.com
Tel (0535) 63 63 45 featuring a central courtyard Set amidst beautiful gardens, this
∑ ryadmabrouka.com shaded by mature orange trees hotel has well-appointed rooms
Columns, plasterwork, mosaic and a banana palm. Cash only. and suites, a restaurant and a pool.
tiles and an inner courtyard all Many of the rooms offer views of
feature at this historic property. MEKNÈS: Riad Meknes  the ancient site of Volubilis.
Historic Map D2
MEDINA: Palais Sheherazade 79 Ksar Chaacha-Dar Lakbira
and Spa  Tel (0535) 53 05 42
Historic Map D2 ∑ riadmeknes.com Middle Atlas
23 Arsat Bennis Douh Rooms vary in size at this riad,
Tel (0535) 74 16 42 part of the palace of the 17th- BENI MELLAL: Hotel Chems
∑ sheheraz.com century ruler Moulay Ismail. Le Tazarkout 
Intensely romantic, this Cash only payment. Value Map D3
sumptuous palace with carved Afourer-Beni Mellal
cedar ceilings, ornate columns Tel (0523) 44 01 01
and rooms worthy of royalty ∑ tazarkout.com
also has a spa with two pools. The pleasant rooms at this hotel
are an ideal base from which to
NORTH OF MEDINA: explore the area.
Hôtel Les Mérinides 
Luxury Map D2 BENI MELLAL: Hotel Ouzoud 
Douar El Magta Value Map D3
Tel (0535) 64 52 26 Rue de Marrakech km 3
∑ hotellesmerinides.com Tel (0523) 48 37 52
Perched high up on the hills of Although a little nondescript from
Fès, this hotel offers a plunging the outside, this has a traditional
view of the mysterious medina. Moroccan interior. No credit cards.
VILLE NOUVELLE: Hotel IFRANE: Hotel des

Jnan Palace  Perce Neige 
Luxury Map D2 Value Map D2
Av Ahmed Chaouki Hay Riad, Blvd Mohammed VI
Tel (0535) 65 39 63 Tel (0535) 56 63 50/51
∑ sogatour.ma/jnanpalace.htm ∑ hotelperceneige.com
Set in extensive parkland, this Dining table at Dar Roumana, a traditional Popular with locals and visitors
Marriott hotel provides its guests riad in Fès’s medina alike, this modern, quiet hotel
with helpful staff is in a central

location. A good budget option
in an otherwise pricey town.
DK Choice
IFRANE: Michlifen 
Luxury Map D2
Av Hassan II
Tel (0535) 86 40 00
∑ michlifenifrane.com
Unashamedly deluxe, this five-
star hotel is fashioned on an
ultra-glamorous ski-lodge. The
fairy-tale “chalet” offers only the
best in terms of accommodation,
service, fine dining and style. Warm and inviting room at Michlifen in Ifrane
There is a heliport nearby.
and-white colour scheme and
DK Choice sleek furniture. A very calm
KHOURIBGA: Golden Tulip HIVERNAGE: retreat from the outside hustle
Farah Khouribga  La Mamounia  and bustle of the medina.
Modern Map C3 Luxury Map C3
13 Blvd Moulay Youssef Avenue Bab Jdid MEDINA: La Maison
Tel (0523) 56 23 50 Tel (0524) 38 86 00 Arabe 
∑ goldentulipfarahkhouribga.com ∑ mamounia.com Luxury Map C3
Guests enjoy comfortable Surrounded by ancient gardens 1 Derb Assehbe, Bab Doukkala
rooms and good amenities at and the city’s ramparts, this Tel (0524) 38 70 10
this resort-style hotel. world-famous hotel from the ∑ lamaisonarabe.com
1920s lies within walking Spend the night in characterful
SEFROU: Dar Attamani  distance of the major tourist and luxurious rooms and suites
Value Map D2 attractions. It features splendid in an establishment that began
414 Bastna Art Deco and Moorish decor as a restaurant in the 1940s.
Tel (0645) 29 89 30 and four top-class restaurants.
∑ darattamani.com MEDINA: Riad Kaiss 
Simple but prettily painted, this Riad Map C3
guesthouse has a charm of its HIVERNAGE: Le Meridien 65 Derb Jdid Zitoune Kedim
own. No credit cards. N’Fis  Tel (0524) 44 01 41
Luxury Map C3 ∑ sanssoucicollection.com
SEFROU: Dar Kamal Chaoui  Av Mohammed VI The owner of this tastefully
Value Map D2 Tel (0524) 33 94 00 decorated period riad featuring
60 Kaf Rhouni, Bhalil ∑ lemeridiennfis.com antiques is very knowledgable
Tel (0678) 83 83 10 Spectacularly situated, this hotel and helpful.
∑ kamalchaoui.com sits amid palm trees and sprawling
Clean rooms with traditional Andalusian-style gardens. MEDINA: The Royal
Moroccan decor and amazing Mansour 
views can be found at this chic HIVERNAGE: Luxury Map C3
guesthouse. Cash-only payment. Sofitel Marrakech  Rue Abou Abbas El Sebti
Luxury Map C3 Tel (0529) 80 80 80
Av Harroun Errachid Tel ∑ royalmansour.com
Tel (0524) 42 56 00 These breathtaking riads come
Marrakech ∑ accor-hotels.com with private rooftop swimming
Surrender to the Sofitel’s luxury: pools and individual butlers.
GUÉLIZ: Bab Hotel  antique furniture, fine crystal and
Modern Map C3 lavish drapes. The staff will be MEDINA: La Sultana 
Corner of Blvd Mansour Eddahbi happy to indulge your every need. Riad Map C3
& Rue Mohammed El Beqqal 403 Rue de la Kasbah
Tel (0524) 43 52 50 MEDINA: Hotel Tresor  Tel (0524) 38 80 08
∑ babhotelmarrakech.ma Riad Map C3 ∑ lasultanamarrakech.com
The decor at this ultramodern 77 Rue Sidi Boulokat Riad Zitoun Kdim Boasting a lavish spa among
hotel is predominantly white Tel (0524) 37 51 13 its amenities, La Sultana offers
with intense splashes of colour. ∑ hotel-du-tresor.com hard-to-beat elegance close to
Tiny but memorable rooms are the Royal Palaces.
HIVERNAGE: decorated with items from the
Four Seasons Resort  local collector’s bazaar. MEDINA: Villa des
Luxury Map C3 Orangers 
1 Blvd de la Menara MEDINA: Riad 72  Riad Map C3
Tel 0524 359 200 Riad Map C3 6 Rue Sidi Mimoun
∑ fourseasons.com 72 Arset Awsel, Bab Doukkala Tel (0524) 38 46 38
This extravagant resort offers Tel (0524) 38 76 29 ∑ villadesorangers.com
sumptuous suites, private riads, ∑ riadliving.com Beautifully styled, this hotel has a
extensive conference facilities This stylish Italian-owned riad rooftop pool, Koutoubia views,
and excellent children’s activities. features a starkly elegant black- lounges and a gorgeous spa.
IMLIL: Kasbah Toubkal  TISSELDAY: Irocha 

Traditional Map C4 Modern Map C4
Imlil Village de Tisselday, Ouarzazate
Tel (0524) 48 56 11 Tel (0667) 73 70 02
∑ kasbahdutoubkal.com ∑ irocha.com
This simple place champions Stay in pleasing rooms with lots
local trekking trade and supports of charm. The roof terrace is
the surrounding community. perfect for stargazing.
Superlative views.
OUIRGANE: Chez Momo II 

Guesthouse Map C4 Ouarzazate & the
Km 61, Centre Ouirgane Southern Oases
Tel (0524) 48 57 12/04
∑ aubergemomo.com AÏT BENHADDOU: Hotel
Built in 2009, this charming Auberge Etoile Filante D’Or 
mountain lodge nestles at the Value Map C4
foot of the lofty Atlas Mountains. Centre of Aït Benhaddou
Tel (0524) 89 03 22
Cosy dining room in the hilltop Kasbah OUIRGANE: Domaine ∑ etoilefilantedor.com
Toubkal, Imlil Malika  Creatively designed to blend with
Modern Map C4 its surroundings, this compact
LA PALMERAIE: Douar Marigha Commune de edifice overlooks the ksar (castle).
Amanjena  Ouirgane, Route d’Amizmiz, par Asni
Luxury Map C3 Tel (0661) 49 35 41 ERFOUD: Kasbah Hotel
Rue de Ouarzazate km 12 ∑ domaine-malika.com Chergui 
Tel (0524) 39 90 00 The French owners of this hugely Value Map E4
∑ amanjena.com successful establishment have Erfoud to Errachidia Rd km 5
Moroccan-style pavillions and designed the quirky interiors Tel (0535) 57 85 04
traditional maisons make up this with great attention to detail. ∑ hotelchergui.com
peaceful, chic resort. Large enough to cater for groups,
OUKAÏMEDEN: Club Alpin this desert hotel has impressive
LA PALMERAIE: Francais  views and lots of facilities.
Dar Ayniwen  Value Map C4
Guesthouse Map C3 Club Alpin Francais
Tafrata, La Palmeraie Tel (0524) 31 90 36 DK Choice
Tel (0524) 32 96 84 ∑ ffcam.fr ERFOUD: Xaluca
∑ dar-ayniwen.com This mountain chalet is very Bivouac 
A lovely place to unwind, this popular with visitors to the Luxury Map E4
richly decorated high-end surrounding ski and trekking Rd Erfoud to Errachidia km 5
guesthouse is quiet and relaxing. slopes. No credit cards. Tel (0535) 57 84 50
∑ xaluca.com
LA PALMERAIE: Dar JL  This is a tented desert hotel
Luxury Map C3 DK Choice offering an unforgettable
Arset Sdiguia Talaint OURIKA VALLEY: experience, with nomad’s tents,
Tel (0661) 22 34 62 Bab Ourika  traditional feasts, camel treks
∑ darjl.com Traditional Map C4 and endless dunes. It is the
Guests here are given mobile Tniine Ourika perfect choice for a safe,
phones with numbers for the Tel (0661) 63 42 34 ecologically sound and exciting
front desk, butler, driver and maid. ∑ kasbahbabourika.com way to experience a night in
Clinging to a crag above a the desert. Also offers 4WD
LA PALMERAIE: national park, this lofty kasbah and dromedary excursions.
Palais Namaskar  was erected using traditional
Luxury Map C3 Berber building techniques.
88–69 Route de Bab Atlas All rooms have stunning views ERFOUD: Hotel Xaluca 
Tel (0524) 29 98 00 of the Atlas Mountains. The Luxury Map E4
∑ palaisnamaskar.com extensive organic vegetable 205 Rue d’Errachidia km 5
This five-star offers lavish suites, gardens provide fresh produce Tel (0535) 57 84 50
huge gardens, hot-air ballooning for the restaurant’s seasonally ∑ xaluca.com
and access to a private jet. changing menu. The hotel also Experience the desert in style,
actively promotes eco-tourism. with all amenities and enter-
tainment facilities. An excellent
option for large groups.
High Atlas OUZOUD FALLS: Riad Cascades
D’Ouzoud  OUARZAZATE: Dar Rita 
ASNI: Kasbah Tamadot  Value Map C3 Value Map C4
Luxury Map C4 Chemin des Moulin, Azilal Rue de la Mosquée 39, Tassoumaat
Post Office Box 67, 42152 Asni Tel (0523) 42 91 73 Tel (0654) 16 47 26
Tel 0208 600 0430 (UK) ∑ ouzoud.com ∑ darrita.com
∑ virginlimitededition.com Run by a lovely French owner, This is a simple but attractive
Richard Branson’s retreat set in this is a characterful place in riad-style guesthouse with an
landscaped gardens offers fine a stunning setting, by far the impressive eco-friendly stance.
rooms and deluxe Berber tents. best in town. Great value for money.
OUARZAZATE: Le Berbere AGADIR: Hotel Beach this hotel has comfortable rooms
Palace  Albatross  and an attractive common
Luxury Map C4 Modern Map B4 terrace. No credit cards.
Quartier Mansour Eddahbi Blvd Mohammed V
Tel (0524) 88 31 05 Tel (0528) 84 32 32 TAROUNDANNT:
∑ leberberepalace.com ∑ pickalbatros.com Hotel Zitoune 
Stay in deluxe individual Bright and modern, this is one of Modern Map B4
bungalows set in gardens. One Agadir’s better budget options, Boutarial El Berrania, 83000
of the top choices in the region. with good standards of service. Tel (0528) 55 11 41
∑ darzitoune.com
OUARZAZATE: Le Temple The Swiss owners of “The House
Des Arts  DK Choice of Olives” built it as an eco-hotel,
Luxury Map C4 AGADIR: Riad Villa restaurant and retreat.
173 and 174, Hay Al Wahda Blanche 
Tel (0524) 88 88 31 Luxury Map B4 TAROUNDANNT: Hotel
∑ templedesarts-ouarzazate.com Baie des Palmiers, N°50 Cité La Gazelle d’Or 
Shimmering with gold and Founty, Sonaba Luxury Map B4
movie props, this excellent hotel Tel (0528) 21 13 13 Centre of Taroudannt
appeals to guests of all ages. ∑ riadvillablanche.com Tel (0528) 85 20 39
Enjoy this hotel’s magnificent This legendary establishment
ZAGORA: Dar Nekhla  yet understated elegance, far is one of the region’s most
Riad Map D4 removed from Agadir’s hustle luxurious hotels and has an
Palmeraie d’Amezrou and bustle. Tastefully decorated impressive list of former guests.
Tel (0524) 84 64 72 rooms offer panoramic ocean
∑ riadzagora.fr views, and facilities include TATA: Dar Infiane 
Rooms are large and clean and indoor and outdoor pools, a Historic Map C5
there is a lovely oasis garden hammam, a spa and a library. Maison d’Hôtes Dar Infiane,
where visitors can relax. Douar Indfiane
Tel (0661) 61 01 70
ZAGORA: Villa Zagora  AGADIR: Sofitel Royal ∑ darinfiane.com
Value Map D4 Bay Resort  Stay in this marvellous 16th-
Route du Djebel de Zagora Luxury Map B4 century guesthouse, featuring
Tel (0524) 84 60 93 Cité Founty Baie des Palmiers a foot-and-a-half-thick walls,
∑ mavillaausahara.com Tel (0528) 84 92 00 rich carpets, painted woodwork
Choose a private room or a bed in ∑ sofitel.com and mesmerizing views.
the Berber tent at this traditional This sizeable and luxurious
house with friendly service. five-star resort combines the TIZNIT: Bab El Maader 
traditional Moroccan kasbah style Value Map B5
ZAGORA: Sahara with contemporary amenities. 132, Rue El Haj Ali
Safari Camp  Tel (0673) 90 73 14
Luxury Map D4 GUELMIM: Fort Bou-Jerif  ∑ bab-el-maader.com
N9 Tagounite, SE of Zagora Historic Map A5 There are colourful, clean and
Tel 0044 (020 7193 2461 (UK) Fort Bou-Jerif, Pierre Gerbens comfortable rooms, some
∑ specialistmorocco.com Tel (0672) 13 00 17 with shared bathrooms, at
Run by a UK-based firm, this is a ∑ fortboujerif.com this unpretentious guesthouse,
pop-up-style camp with luxurious Close to a quirky 1930s desert reflecting this simple area.
trappings. Camel treks, stargazing fort, this hotel has a restaurant
and 4WD excursions. and bar. It organizes excellent TIZNIT: Riad Janoub 
excursions. Cash only. Value Map B5
193 Rue de la Grande Mosquée
SIDI IFNI: Hotel Bellevue  Tel (0528) 60 27 26
Southern Morocco & Value Map A5 ∑ riadjanoub.com
Western Sahara Pl Hassan II The management at this modest,
spacious and serene riad nestled
Tel (0528) 87 52 42
AGADIR: Atlantic Hotel  In a spectacular clifftop location in the medina can help organize
Modern Map B4 with outstanding ocean views, tours of the surrounding area.
Av Hassan II
Tel (0528) 84 36 61
∑ atlantichotelagadir.com
This lavishly decorated three-star
hotel has modern, comfortable
rooms and a great terrace.
AGADIR: Iti Agadir

Beach Club 
Value Map B4
Rue de Oued Souss
Tel (0528) 84 43 43
∑ lti.de
Family-friendly rooms have
balconies with ocean views at this
hotel, one of the best and most
popular in Agadir’s tourist area. The Sofitel Royal Bay Resort in Agadir

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Moroccan food is among the best in the eat traditional fare at home, opting for
world. The growth of food tourism, ecological international dishes when dining out.
concerns relating to importation and a While all the listings in this guide are
greater interest in the diversification of correct at the time of going to press,
culture, mean that even more mid- to high- visitors are advised to check a restaurant’s
class establishments are offering Moroccan details beforehand as addresses, opening
dishes on their menus. Moroccans prefer to hours and menus often change suddenly.
a terracotta dish with a conical

lid; this cooking vessel is called
a tajine, hence the dish’s name.
Moroccan desserts, especially
milk pastilla, are mouth-
watering. Meals are usually
accompanied by mint tea,
although more and more
restaurants now offer wine.
Opening Hours
and Reservations
Heavily influenced by the
French, Moroccan restaurants
The rooftop restaurant at Nord-Pinus (see p324), Tangier, offering a spectacular view generally open for a certain
period at lunch, close in the
Cultural Aspects (if any) and access. If it is in afternoon, and re-open in
Given the pleasantly warm a medina, they may need to the evening. Lunch is generally
climate in Morocco, many send someone to collect you served between noon and
restaurants prefer to serve their or explain their location. 3pm, and supper generally
customers outdoors, setting out between 7pm and 10pm.
tables in a quiet and pleasantly Consequently, it might be
shaded courtyard, in the corner Moroccan Specialities difficult to dine out outside
of a garden or even on the A traditional Moroccan meal these times.
pavement outside the restaurant. begins with a large number During the fasting month
As a general rule, do sample of starters, consisting of soup, of Ramadan (see p45), or other
what is traditional to each salad, or vegetables flavoured religious festivals, opening times
region (fish by the coast, for with different kinds of spices. and menus vary. Small eateries,
example, or Spanish-influenced Then follows the main course, for example, will not open for
dishes towards Tangier). By often couscous or tajine. lunch during Ramadan, and
seeking out where some of A kind of stew made with few restaurants, whatever their
the locals are eating (even if fish, chicken, beef or lamb, and size, will serve alcohol during
it is a street stall), visitors are including prunes or almonds, major religious periods.
guaranteed a delicious meal. tajine can be found in many In very fashionable
A word of warning to the varieties, which differ according restaurants, particularly those
hungry: if possible, check to the region. All, however, in the centre of the largest
your facts before dining. Life are prepared and served in towns and cities, it is advisable
in Morocco is lived by the
day, which means that any
information you might have
in advance may not pan out as
expected. Opening hours, exact
menus, and even addresses,
may suddenly change –
often for no apparent reason.
Wherever possible, telephone a
restaurant before heading there,
or if language is an issue, get
your hotel to do this for you.
Discuss their opening hours and
address, planned entertainment Beautiful dining interiors of Le Mirage (see p324) in Cap Spartel
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  315
Street Stalls
Stalls selling cheap food are
everywhere in Morocco. Typical
dishes are soup, skewered meat
or fish and sandwiches. Eat
where the locals are eating to
sample some of the freshest,
most delicious food Morocco
has to offer.
At dusk, Place Jemaa el-Fna
in Marrakech (see p238) turns
into a huge open-air restaurant.
In coastal towns and villages,
The exquisite Mazagan Beach Resort (see p323) in El-Jadida usually on the quays of
harbours where fishing boats
for large parties to reserve Unlicensed restaurants may come in, trestle tables serving
ahead, especially on Thursdays, sometimes serve wine discreetly. freshly cooked seafood are
Fridays and Saturday evenings. Visitors should not, however, often set up.
Reservation is absolutely insist on being served alcohol
essential for the tables d’hôte in an unlicensed restaurant
in Marrakech and Fès. In these since it may be against the Recommended
places, it is often necessary to rules of the management. Restaurants
reserve several days in advance, The restaurants featured in
since space can be limited, as this guide have been selected
can the number of sittings Dress across a wide price range for
each evening. Moroccans usually dress quite their value, good food, location
smartly when they go out to eat. and atmosphere. From authentic,
Restaurants rarely insist on a no-frills eateries to pricier,
Prices and Tipping particular type of dress. It is best, more sophisticated options,
Prices vary widely according to however, to avoid too relaxed these restaurants run the
a restaurant’s quality. They may a style of dress, and revealing gamut across all price levels
range from 50 dirhams for a basic clothes, such as shorts, plunging and cuisine types.
meal to about 300 dirhams for neck-lines and beachwear, are For the best of the best,
a meal with wine in a classic likely to be considered offensive. look out for the restaurants
establishment, and between in each region or major town
400 and 600 dirhams in a high- highlighted as the “DK Choice”.
class restaurant. Prices are Children In the mountains, the choice
higher in large towns and cities Children are universally adored will likely be a restaurant with
and in places that attract lots by Moroccans, who tend to stunning views by the sea, it
of foreign visitors, such as take them everywhere. Even could be one that consistently
Casablanca, Marrakech and the fanciest restaurants will supplies the freshest fish, or
Agadir. Prices given on menus gladly serve children. However, in a town, it might be the
usually include service and tax. mid-range to high-end hotels fanciest place to dine. Wherever
Tipping is a widely accepted can usually arrange a babysitter possible, we have tried to keep
custom in Morocco. It is usual for those trying to plan a quiet these choices varied in terms
to give 5 to 10 per cent of the night out. of price and cuisine.
bill. The tip should be in cash,
and should be left on the table
when leaving the restaurant.
Do not add it to the total when
making a payment by cheque
or bankers’ card because the
waiters will not receive it.
Alcoholic Drinks
Morocco is a Muslim country
where stringent laws apply to
the sale of alcohol. However,
most restaurants from a certain
level upwards have a license to
serve alcohol, as do Moroccan
restaurants with a largely
Western clientele. Traditional dining room in a restaurant in Agadir
The Flavours of Morocco

From the indigenous, rural Berber people come the basics of Moroccan
cuisine, such as couscous, but Moroccan food owes much to influences
from neighbouring lands. In the 1600s the Arabs introduced bread,
pulses and spices, notably chickpeas (garbanzos), cinnamon, ginger,
saffron and turmeric, from their empire in the East. In the 11th century
Bedouin tribes brought dates and milk from their wandering flocks.
The Arabs returned from Andalusia with produce such as olives
and lemons, and, later, tomatoes and peppers from the Americas. Dried couscous
will also find beef on the menu, Fish & Seafood

usually served as kebabs, as Morocco has long coasts on the
well as rabbit, served as a Atlantic and the Mediterranean,
couscous or tagine. Chicken which provide a wide variety
and turkey are also readily of seafood. Fish such as bream
available. Pigeon is more rarely and bass are typically marinated
on the menu these days, but is in a garlicky, spicy mixture called
still a feature of b’stilla. This chermoula, and are usually
extravagant pie, a speciality cooked whole. They may also
of Fès, is made with tissue-thin be served stuffed, with an
warkha pastry. Offal, such as almond crust, as steaks or
brains, heart, liver and tripe, brochettes, or as fishcakes,
are also popular. known as boulettes, with a
Ginger Saffron Coriander seeds

Ras el hanout
Cloves
Meat and other products on sale at a Cinnamon Dried rose petals
market food stall in Morocco
Cumin
Meat
Lamb is the cornerstone
of Moroccan cookery, and
is found in the form of grills,
merguez (thin, spicy red
sausages) and brochettes
(skewers); in tagines or a
couscous; and roasted whole
on a spit with aromatics such
as the traditional m’choui. You Some of the many spices used in traditional Moroccan dishes
Moroccan Dishes and Specialities

A restaurant meal in Morocco
will typically start with a full-
flavoured soup, such as harira, a
comforting soup of diced lamb,
lentils and chickpeas with tomato,
onion, coriander and parsley,
or a selection of vibrant salads.
A tagine is a common main
course, served with flat bread
(matlouh). The meat and
vegetables are flavoured with
saffron, garlic, coriander and cumin.
Preserved lemons and mint Garnishes include olives, eggs, mint
and preserved lemons. Another Harira, a meal-like soup, is a dish
main course is couscous. Made with vegetables, chicken, traditionally served at sunset
lamb, merguez, rabbit, or even fish, it is usually served with during Ramadan, in order to
a hot sauce made from harissa and tomato purée. break the fast.
peaches, figs, melons,

bananas, plums, pomegranates
and all types of citrus fruits.
Lemons, preserved in brine,
add piquancy to many dishes.
Spices & Flavourings

Key Moroccan spices
include aniseed, black
pepper, cayenne, cardamom,
cinnamon, coriander, cumin,
ginger, paprika, parsley, saffron
and turmeric. Three spice blends
are important: chermoula, for
Food stall at dusk in the Place Jemaa el-Fna in Marrakech marinades; harissa, a hot red
pepper condiment; and ras el
spicy tomato sauce. Prawns, Fruit hanout (“top of the shop”),
squid, oysters and mussels are Most Moroccan meals end with a blend of over 20 spices,
also available and good quality. a dish of fruit, often a simple used in tagines.
sliced-orange salad, sprinkled
with cinnamon and orange- MOROCCAN PASTRIES
Vegetables flower water, and sometimes
Morocco has many inventive chopped dates and almonds. Briouats Triangular warkha
and refreshing salad dishes. Other common fruits include pastries filled with almond and
cinnamon paste.
Often served as a starter,
they include mezgaldi, which Ghoriba Macaroons made
combines onions with saffron, with sugar, almonds, lemon
ginger, cinnamon, sugar and zest, vanilla and cinnamon.
celery. Aubergines (eggplants) Kaab el ghzal Pastry crescents
are ubiquitous, served as a salad, filled with sweet almond paste,
fried or stuffed. Combinations dipped in orange-flower water
of tomatoes, green peppers, hot and icing sugar.
red or sweet red peppers and M’hanncha “Coiled serpent”
red onions, all add colour and cake of pastry stuffed with
flavour to the table. Olives almonds and decorated with
and their oil are abundant, and icing sugar and cinnamon.
nutty argan oil is widely used. Sfenj Deep-fried doughnuts.
(Goats adore the outer pulp
Shebbakia Deep-fried pastry
of the nut, and can be seen
ribbons, dipped in hot honey
“grazing” in the branches Array of cakes and pastries in a and coated in sesame seeds.
of argan trees.) patisserie in Fès
B’stilla is a rich pie of pigeon, Tagine, a slow-cooked stew, Couscous is the Moroccan
eggs, almonds and raisins, is named for the earthenware national dish – a semolina-
flavoured with lemon, sugar, dish with a conical lid in which based grain served with an
saffron and cinnamon. it is cooked. accompanying stew.
What to Drink in Morocco

Green mint tea is the national drink in Morocco. It is
served several times a day, be it at home, in the office, in
shops or on café terraces. Moroccans are also very fond of
drinking coffee, which is usually served with milk but
may sometimes be flavoured with cinnamon, orange-flower
water or a few grains of pepper. Freshly squeezed orange
juice is delicious, as are all fruit juices – cherry, grape and
pomegranate being the most widely available choices.
Although the Koran forbids the consumption of alcohol,
fairly good-quality wines are produced in Morocco, and The tea ceremony, performed in front
these can be bought in certain shops. of guests
Tea Coffee
Known for 3,000 years in China, green tea, Although it is less widely drunk than tea,
with long fine leaves, reached Morocco in 1854. Moroccans are also fond of coffee, which they
It was introduced by the British, and immediately like to drink very strong. It is accceptable to ask
became popular in every Moroccan home. All for a little boiling water with which to dilute it.
over Morocco, from the sophisticated town Unless you request otherwise, your coffee will
house to the simple nomad’s tent, green mint automatically be served with milk. A black coffee
tea has become the national drink. This thirst- is a qahwa kahla; a noss noss is made up of half
quenching drink, which is made with varying coffee and half milk; and café cassé consists of
amounts of sugar and mint, more coffee than milk.
is a symbol of hospitality,
and it is considered very ill-
mannered to refuse it.
The tea ceremony is
almost always performed in
front of guests and according
to immutable rules. Mint tea is
always served in small, slender
glasses decorated with a gold
Glass of mint tea or coloured filigree pattern.
The tea leaves are rinsed in
the scalded teapot so as to remove their Coffee with milk (noss noss) Black coffee (qahwa kahla)
excessive bitterness. Whole mint leaves, complete
with stems, are then added, together with large
lumps of sugar, which prevent the leaves from
rising to the surface. After being left for a few
minutes to infuse, a little tea is poured into a Cold Drinks
glass and returned to the pot. This is repeated Although lemonade and cola are
several times. The host finally tastes the tea, sold on every street corner, freshly
which will not be served to guests until it is squeezed orange juice is the real
deemed to be perfect. Moroccan speciality. It is absolutely
delicious, so long as it is served
undiluted. The sweet, juicy and
famously flavoursome Moroccan
oranges can be seen laid out
for sale everywhere, piled up in Orange juice
glossy pyramids
on barrows and on
market stalls. On Place
Jemaa el-Fna in Marrakech
(see p238), they are almost
a sideshow in themselves.
Almond milk, banana
milk, apple juice and
pomegranate juice are
also popular drinks.
Traditionally served mint tea Almond milk
Beer and Spirits Mineral Water

All kinds of imported alcoholic drinks can be Although the tap water in towns is safe to drink,
purchased in supermarkets. Flag Spéciale is a it tastes strongly of chlorine. Mineral water – such
light ale brewed in Tangier and Casablanca. Stork as Sidi Ali and Sidi Harazem, which are still, and
is brewed in Casablanca. Mahia is a Moroccan fig Oulmès and San Pellegrino, which are sparkling –
distillation, 40 per cent proof. The sale of wine is much more palatable.
and other alcohol is forbidden to Muslims during
Ramadan and after 7:30pm.
Flag Spéciale, from Sidi Ali mineral Sidi Harazem Oulmès mineral
Casablanca beer Tangier water mineral water water
Moroccan Wines
Wine has been produced in Morocco since
Roman times, and local wine production
was encouraged during the Protectorate. The
country has three major wine-producing areas:
around Oujda, in the northeast, in the Fès and
Meknès area, and in the west, between Rabat
and Casablanca.
The most popular wines include red and
white Médaillon, red, white and rosé Siroua,
and the higher-quality wines produced by the
winemakers Celliers de Meknès: Merlot and
Cabernet Sauvignon; Sémillant, a fruity, dry white
wine, and two rosé wines – Gris de Guerrouane Vineyard near Boulaouane
and Gris de Boulaouane. Also produced are Aït
Soual, Vieux-Papes, Oustalet, Valpierre, Chaud- quality of Moroccan wines can differ widely
Soleil and Spécial Coquillages, which is best from year to year and sometimes even from
drunk with fish and seafood. Note that the bottle to bottle.
Red Amazir Red Cabernet Red Siroua Red Guerrouane Red Oustalet Rosé Guerrouane Rosé Cabernet
Where to Eat and Drink

CITY CENTRE: La Brasserie  Price Guide
Rabat French Map C2 Prices are based on a three-course meal
for one, including tax and service (but
Hôtel Le Diwan Rabat, Place de
without wine).
AGDAL: Chewwz Paul  l'Unité Africaine
French Map C2 Tel (0537) 26 27 27  up to 150 dirhams
82 Av des Nations Unies Featuring plush interiors and  150 to 450 dirhams
 over 450 dirhams
Tel (0537) 67 20 00 intimate seating, this is a
This is an excellent, chic eatery, gourmet brasserie-style place,
great for light lunches, tea and with a good and extensive
cake as well as people-watching. French menu. CITY CENTRE: Matsuri 
The home-made macaroons are Japanese Map C2
particularly good. CITY CENTRE: Cosmopolitan 155 Av Mohamed VI, Rue des Zaer
Restaurant  Tel (0537) 75 75 72
AGDAL: The Puzzle  French Map C2 Generally considered to be the
Mediterranean Map C2 Av Ibn Toumert best conveyor-belt sushi place
79 Av Ibn Sina Tel (0537) 20 00 28 in town, Matsuri offers a good
Tel (0537) 67 00 30 Refreshingly uncluttered both in choice of wines and fresh fish,
Mediterranean cuisine such as menu and decor, this renovated plus expert waiting staff.
chicken, kebabs, roast meats, fish Art Deco villa offers seasonal
and stuffed vegetables, as well as French dishes, with an emphasis HAY RIAD: Latium 
a good selection of fruit, awaits on the cuisine of the southwest. Italian Map C2
at this bright and breezy 16 Av Annakhil, Hay Riad
restaurant. Live music daily. CITY CENTRE: Tel (0537) 71 77 16
Le Goeland  This much-frequented and
AGDAL: L’Entrecote  French Map C2 family-friendly spot offers
French Map C2 9 Rue Moulay Ali-Cherif excellent home-made pastas,
74 Charia Al-Amir-Fal-Ould-Oumeir Tel (0537) 76 88 85 salads and wood-fired pizzas.
Tel (0537) 67 11 08 The influences here remain
Attracting a business clientele as largely French, with fresh fish and KASBAH DES OUDAIA:
well as travellers, this restaurant seafood playing an important Restaurant de la Plage 
specializes in classic, beautifully role. Diners can enjoy their meals Seafood Map C2
presented French meat and fish in the pretty open-air courtyard. Kasbah des Oudaïa Plage
dishes in rich sauces. Tel (0537) 20 29 28
Small and characterful, this
CITY CENTRE: La Koutoubia  DK Choice eatery draws a sizeable following
Traditional Map C2 CITY CENTRE: Le Grand with its great beach location and
10 Rue Pierre Parent Comptoir  its seafood specialities.
Tel (0537) 70 10 75 French Map C2
Dine amid tilework and painted 279 Av Mohammed V MEDINA: Dinarjat 
panels at this excellent no- Tel (0537) 20 15 14 Traditional Map C2
nonsense restaurant featuring With its candelabras, sparkling 6 Rue Belgnaoui
all the classics. Good wine list. gilt mirrors and live piano music Tel (0537) 70 42 39
in the background, Le Grand Housed in a former 17th-century
CITY CENTRE: Zerda  Comptoir captures the essence mansion-style residence, Dinarjat
Moroccan/Jewish Map C2 of a 1930s Parisian brasserie. serves superlative Moroccan
7 Rue Patrice Lumumba The food is classic French, with cuisine. It is particularly known
Tel (0537) 73 09 12 a menu that features steaks, for its tajines (rich stews).
The family-run Zerda generally grilled lobster and crêpes suzette
offers live music well into the (pancakes). The bar stays open MEDINA: Le Ziryab 
evening. There are extremely to 1am and has live music every Fine Dining Map C2
good Moroccan and Jewish Thursday, Friday and Saturday. Off Rue des Consuls
specialities on the menu. Tel (0537) 73 36 36
A heavy door and dimly lit
entrance hall lead to a lavish
dining area with elegant tables
and Moroccan fine dining at its
best. It serves delicious home-
made bread. Open for dinner only.
SOUISSI: Relais de Paris 

French Map C2
173 Av Mohammed VI, ex John
Kennedy
Tel (0537) 65 56 56
This is a highly trustworthy
option for good French bistro
dishes such as magret de canard
and tarte tatin with vanilla ice
cream. Good wine list and
The elegant, light-filled dining room at La Villa Mandarine, Rabat extensive suggestions of the day.
CITY CENTRE: Al-Mounia 

Moroccan Map C2
95 Rue du Prince Moulay Abdellah
Tel (0522) 22 26 69
With a beautifully planted garden
and a courtyard area, Al-Mounia is
a great option for alfresco dining,
though there is indoor seating as
well. The menu includes good
vegetarian specialities.
CITY CENTRE: La Brasserie

Bavaroise 
French Map C2
129 Rue Allal Ben Abdellah
Gently lit interiors at La Brasserie Bavaroise, Casablanca Tel (0522) 31 17 60
Authentically styled, this centrally
SOUISSI: La Villa a no-nonsense approach. Among located French bistro serves daily
Mandarine  the menu highlights are the specials as well as an extensive
International Map C2 excellent fried-fish dishes. general menu. It is particularly
19 Rue Ouled Bousbaa favoured for its excellent meat
Tel (0537) 75 20 77 Closed Sun dishes and desserts.
La Villa Mandarine offers a DK Choice
haven of peace away from LARACHE: Estrella CITY CENTRE: Brasserie
the bustling city and a varied del Mar  Marcel Cerdan 
menu of international as well Mediterranean Map D1 International Map C2
as Moroccan dishes. 68 Av Mohammed Zerktouni 104 Blvd Rahal El Meskini
Tel (0539) 91 10 52 Tel (0522) 54 26 59
Attractively Andalusian- and This legendary brasserie takes
Arabian-styled, Estrella del Mar its name from the French boxer.
Northern Atlantic is one of the best options in On the menu are bistro classics
Coast town for grills, steaks and fish
dishes. The ground-floor dining
and tapas, plus cocktails.
ASILAH: Restaurant Al Alba  room is more casual than the CITY CENTRE: Casa José 
International/Moroccan Map D1 one upstairs. Spanish Map C2
Lot Nakhil, 35 Av Khalid Ibn Oualid 26 bis Blvd Félix Houphouet Boigny
Tel (0539) 41 69 23 Tel (0522) 29 70 12
Pleasing and authentic, this small Diners at Casa José enjoy a
restaurant offers a varied menu typically Spanish ambience
of pastas, meats and – given the Casablanca with very good tapas and a
location – very good seafood. range of Iberian specialities.
CITY CENTRE: La Bodéga
ASILAH: Casa Garcia  de Casablanca  CITY CENTRE:
Mediterranean Map D1 Spanish Map C2 Au Four à Bois 
Corner Rue Prince Héritier & Rue Melilia 129 Rue Allal Ben Abdellah Italian Map C2
Tel (0539) 41 74 65 Tel (0522) 54 18 42 Rue Jean Jaurès Gauthier.
Specializing in fish, this local This lively place serves delicious Tel (0522) 22 17 18
institution serves good grilled tapas, cocktails and wine. The Fine Italian cuisine is served in a
options, as well as more exotic dance floor downstairs hosts cosy, relaxing atmosphere.
octopus, eels and barnacles. regular themed events, including
Try the house paella and salsa, reggae, rock and samba. CITY CENTRE: Taverne du
Spanish shrimp. Book ahead. Dauphin 
CITY CENTRE: Chez Paul  Seafood Map C2
ASILAH: La Perle  French Map C2 115 Blvd Houphouët Boigny
French Map D1 Villa Zevaco, corner Blvd d’Anfa & Tel (0522) 22 12 00
Rue Allal Ben Abd Allah Blvd Moulay Rachid One of the best, yet least
Tel (0539) 41 87 58 Tel (0522) 36 60 00 pretentious, fish restaurants in
Owned by a Moroccan chef and The former villa of Édith Piaf, this the city, this place is always
his Irish wife, this restaurant has lovely café and restaurant is the bustling. All the dishes are
surprisingly high standards for place to be seen. It serves light excellent, but especially notable
such a tucked-away location. meals, afternoon tea and ice is the baby squid.
The menu offers a welcome cream. Alcohol is served, except
alternative to fried fish and paella. on religious holidays. Wi-Fi. CITY CENTRE: L’Atelier
Oriental 
KENITRA: Restaurant CITY CENTRE: Middle Eastern Map C2
Merzouga  Au Petit Poucet  Sofitel Casablanca Tour Blanche,
International Map C2 Moroccan/French Map C2 Rue Sidi Belyout
1ére Rue front de mer, Nº84 Mehdia 86 Blvd Mohammed V Tel (0522) 45 62 00
Plage Tel (0522) 27 54 20 A welcome addition to the city’s
Tel (0537) 38 89 71 A 1920s landmark eatery with top destinations, this predictably
Diners at this restaurant and pretentions of grandeur, Au Petit dazzling restaurant in the Sofitel
café favoured by locals can Poucet serves exceptionally good serves Asian, Persian and Arabian
expect efficient service and meals almost round the clock. cuisine. Open for dinner only.
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 314–15

have been wowing locals and

visitors for decades. At the end
of your meal, make sure you
have some room left for their
excellent desserts. There is
also a cocktail lounge and
bar on site.
CORNICHE: Le Pilotis 

French Map C2
Tahiti Beach Club, Blvd de la
Corniche
Tel (0522) 79 84 27
It is possible to dine al fresco
at this chic establishment
favoured by the city’s elite. It
serves delicious seafood and a
range of Moroccan wines.
Rick’s Café in a courtyard-style mansion in Casablanca
PORT QUARTER: Restaurant
CITY CENTRE: CORNICHE: Morocco Mall du Port 
Le Rouget de l’Isle  Snail Sellers  Seafood Map C2
French Map C2 Street Food Map C2 Port de Pêche
16 Rue Rouget de l’Isle, Villa Elise Corner of Rue de Sidi Abderahmann Tel (0522) 31 85 61
Tel (0522) 29 47 40 & Blvd de Barritz Enormously popular, this
Sample gourmet French cuisine Adventurous travellers will bustling restaurant specializes
in an Art Deco villa situated in not want to miss sampling the in fresh fish and seafood dishes
a quiet street near the town piping hot snail soup from a that keep the locals coming
centre. The airy terrace cart outside Morocco Mall. At back for more.
overlooking the garden is a busy times, there can be over
popular spot in warm weather. 50 carts lining the street.
DK Choice
CITY CENTRE: La Table CORNICHE: Le Basmane  PORT QUARTER:
du Retro  Moroccan Map C2 Rick’s Café 
French Map C2 Blvd de la Corniche American/Moroccan Map C2
22 Rue Abou Al Mahassine Royani Tel (0522) 79 70 70 248 Blvd Sour Jdid, Place du
Tel (0522) 94 05 55 Enjoy tasty local dishes, lively Jardin Public
With a reputation as the place music and belly-dancing amid Tel (0522) 27 42 07
where wealthier locals head to fabulous traditional decor. First-time visitors to Casablanca
celebrate, La Table du Retro will not want to miss this
offers particularly stylish CORNICHE: A Ma Bretagne  popular themed restaurant. A
surroundings where you can French Map C2 tribute to the film Casablanca,
enjoy a range of French classics. Beside Morocco Mall, Blvd de Rick’s Café is an American-
la Corniche owned riad-style establishment
CORNICHE: Boga Boga  Tel (0522) 36 21 12 Closed Sun offering lunch and dinner
Spanish Map C2 Looking slightly shabby next menus. It features piano music,
7 Bis Rue La Tempete, off the Blvd de to the glistening Morocco Mall, a tiny cocktail bar and the
la Corniche this oceanfront institution is magic and romance of the
Tel (0522) 79 79 60 nevertheless a good option. It Casablanca of another era.
Service may not always be serves an à la carte menu with a
the most attentive at this good range of vegetarian options.
unassuming restaurant that is PORT QUARTER: La Sqala 
a firm favourite with the expat CORNICHE: Relais Traditional Map C2
community, but the food is of de Paris  Blvd des Almohades
a consistently good standard, French Map C2 Tel (0522) 26 09 60
and the menu likely to appeal Villa Blanca Hotel, Blvd de la La Sqala is located in a stunning
to even the choosiest customer. Corniche 18th-century saffron-stuccoed
Tel (0522) 39 25 10 fort overlooking the ocean.
CORNICHE: Morocco Mall This is an excellent French bistro Diners can enjoy great food in
Food Stalls  with various daily specials in calm, beautiful surroundings.
International Map C2 addition to its regular menu No alcohol served.
Blvd de Biarritz of fabulous fish, salads, steaks
Tel (0801) 00 12 30 and desserts. There are great PORT QUARTER:
There are more than 40 eateries views from its terrace. L’Ostréa 
scattered about this mammoth Seafood Map C2
place, and the cuisines range CORNICHE: Port de Pêche
from Lebanese to sushi. Be Le Cabestan  Tel (0522) 44 13 90
aware that alcohol is not served Mediterranean Map C2 Located right next to the
anywhere, nor allowed – this is Blvd de la Corniche, Phare d’El Hank fishermen’s wharf, this upmarket
because the mall features a Tel( 0522) 39 11 90 establishment is a good place
mosque on the upper floor. The food and view at this to eat fresh fish and seafood,
Instead, juice bars, café au lait chic Mediterranean restaurant, particularly oysters, and to
and frozen yogurts abound. located near the lighthouse, sample local wines.
ESSAOUIRA: Elizir 
Southern Atlantic French/Moroccan Map B4
Coast 1 Derb Agadir
Tel (0524) 47 21 03 Closed Dinner
EL-JADIDA: Mazagan Book in advance at this retro diner
Beach Resort  serving alternatives to classic
International Map B2 Moroccan dishes, such as pumpkin
Mazagan Beach Resort and saffron soup, and sirloin with
Tel (0523) 38 80 00 balsamic sauce. Cash only.
Overladen buffet tables offer a
huge variety of dishes. This is a ESSAOUIRA: Heure
good place to come for a day out Bleue Palais 
with the kids. Pay a little extra to French/Moroccan Map B4
access the swimming pool. 2 Rue Ibn Batouta
Tel (0524) 78 34 34
ESSAOUIRA: Caravanne Café  This sleek, fashionable gourmet
International Map B4 establishment is very popular
2 bis Rue du Qadi Ayad with the party crowd. It has an Tables at the Mazagan Beach Resort,
Tel (0524) 78 31 11 Closed Mon English lounge and a terrace grill. El-Jadida
Come here for the vibe, live
music and shows, the jumble ESSAOUIRA: Le Sirocco 
of art on the walls and the rare French/Moroccan Map B4 Tangier
opportunity to discuss vegetarian 15 Rue Ibn Rochd
options. Bohemian and eclectic, Tel (0524) 47 23 96 Closed Tue
both in menu and decor. Local as well as international DK Choice
dishes are served under the CITY CENTRE: Cinema Rif 
ESSAOUIRA: Harbour  watchful eye of the French owner Café Map D1
Seafood Map B4 at this boisterous spot with Place 9 Avril, Grand Socco
Essaouira Harbour loud live music. Cash only. Tel (0539) 93 46 83
Just a stone’s throw from the Enjoy delicious tea, cake,
water, this is the perfect place OUALIDIA: L’Araignee coffee and juices in a truly
to lazily savour dishes made Gourmande  unique Art Deco setting.
with freshly caught fish. French Map B3 The cinema was reopened
Oualidia Beach in 2006 after painstaking
ESSAOUIRA: La Licorne  Tel (0523) 36 64 47 renovation. Its location on a
Traditional Map B4 Grab a table on the attractive main square makes Cinema Riff
26 Rue Scala terrace and gaze out to the an ideal place to watch the
Tel (0524) 47 36 26 Closed lunch; Sun breathtaking lagoon. Feast on world go by.
This is an excellent eatery with delicious seafood or opt for one
an emphasis on seafood, many of a number of vegetarian dishes.
vegetarian options and a good CITY CENTRE: Le Coeur de Tanger
selection of wines. Cash only. OUALIDIA: Ostrea II  and Café de Paris 
Seafood Map B3 International Map D1
ESSAOUIRA: Oualidia Oyster Farm 1 Rue Annoual
Restaurant Taros  Tel (0523) 36 64 51 Tel (0539) 94 84 50
Moroccan/International Map B4 This legendary restaurant A longtime Tangier landmark,
Pl Moulay Hassan sits right on the oyster farm the iconic Café de Paris may no
Tel (0524) 47 64 07 that supplies this and other longer serve food, but head to
Enjoy refined cooking at this establishments. Enjoy delicious Le Coeur de Tanger upstairs for
café and restaurant with art shellfish and grilled fish while classic Moroccan cuisine.
on the walls and live music looking out to the lagoon.
in the evenings. CITY CENTRE: Le Nabab 
Traditional Map D1
ESSAOUIRA: Les Alizes  4 Rue Al Kadiria
Traditional Map B4 Tel (0661) 44 22 20
26 Rue de la Sqala A large restaurant with arches,
Tel (0524) 47 68 19 candlelight and a fireplace,
Fancy, candlelit tables exude Le Nabab is particularly
an elegant atmosphere at this welcoming in winter months. It
restaurant, housed in a 19th- can get noisy when crowded or
century building. Good classic when live music is playing.
Moroccan dishes at low prices.
CITY CENTRE: Rif and Spa 
ESSAOUIRA: Le Chalet Health Food Map D1
de La Plage  152 Av Mohammed VI
French/Moroccan Map B4 Tel (0539) 34 93 00
Blvd Mohammed V This juice bar and restaurant
Tel (0524) 47 59 72 is frequented by the healthy-
Lobster, shrimp, oysters and eating crowd – tourists as well
calamari all appear on the menu as guests – at the hotel in
at this smart beachside eatery, which it is located. It offers
along with salads and meats. Beautiful Art Deco interiors at lighter dining choices than
Terrace seating with sea views. Cinema Rif most places in town.
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 314–15
CITY CENTRE: San Remo  local wines – in particular, try the staples. The dining room has
Italian Map D1 Guerrouane Gris – and delicious a fireplace and is illuminated
15 Rue Ahmed Chaouki grilled fish. No credit cards. with lanterns and candles. Save
Tel (0539) 93 84 51 room for the sheep’s milk yogurt
A well-established Italian CAP SPARTEL: Le Mirage with honey and walnuts.
restaurant, San Remo offers Restaurant 
all the classic dishes, many of International Map D1 OUJDA: Comme Chez Soi 
them prepared using quality Le Mirage Hotel, Les Grottes French Map F2
imported ingredients. d’Hercule Rue Sijilmassa
Tel (0539) 33 33 32 Tel (0536) 68 60 79
CITY CENTRE: El Korsan  Part of the luxurious Le Mirage Smartly uniformed waiters
Moroccan Map D1 Hotel, this exquisite restaurant and fine table dressings at
Hôtel El-Minzah, 85 Rue de la Liberte opens out into the ocean and Comme Chez Soi make it
Tel (0539) 93 58 85 serves an à la carte menu of the town’s top dining choice.
Dining at the stylish and lavishly both French and international Choose from a French menu
decorated El Korsan is a great dishes, with a particular emphasis that includes wine options,
way to experience the legendary on seafood. a rarity in Oujda.
Hôtel El-Minzah without paying
for one of its luxurious rooms. CHEFCHAOUEN: Darcom  OUJDA: Le Dauphin 
Traditional Map D1 Seafood Map F2
CITY CENTRE: Rue Swika, Old Mellah (behind the 38 Rue Berkane
La Fabrique  Great Mosque) Tel (0536) 68 61 45
French Map D1 Tel (0661) 70 55 70 Le Dauphin is a seafood
7 Rue d'Angleterre The discerning traveller need speciality restaurant that also
Tel (0539) 37 40 57 look no further than this serves a good selection of meat
La Fabrique is a New York loft- Moroccan speciality restaurant. dishes. It is popular with tourists
style, self-conscious place that Opt for the set menu and try and locals. No credit cards.
is very much in vogue. They some of the staple local dishes.
charge practically European Darcom offers panoramic views OUJDA: La Table at the Ibis 
prices, but they do deliver one of the medina and surrounding International Map F2
of the best meals in town. hills. No credit cards. Ibis Moussafir Oujda, Blvd
Abdellah
CITY CENTRE: CHEFCHAOUEN: Moulay Ali Tel (0536) 68 82 02
Nord-Pinus  Ben Rachid  This hotel-restaurant starts
Traditional Map D1 Traditional Map D1 serving breakfast very early,
11 Riad Sultan Kasbah Tarik Ben Ziad Closed Fri lunch and is open for lunch and
Tel (0661) 22 81 40 A favourite with locals, this dinner. It is a good place for
Dine in this hotel’s rooftop basement restaurant may look reasonably priced, tasty food,
restaurant and drink in the unpromising from the outside, and you can dine al fresco, too,
amazing view of the Spanish but is well worth a visit thanks on the terrace.
coast. Particularly recommended to its excellent menu of grilled
are the filling soups, the fresh fish fish and colourful salads. No TETOUAN:
dishes and the wood-fired tajines. credit cards. Blanco Riad Hotel 
Moroccan Map D1
KASBAH: A l’Anglais  CHEFCHAOUEN: Tissemlal  25 Rue Zawiya Kadiria
Traditional/International Map D1 Traditional Map D1 Tel (0539) 70 42 02
37 Rue de la Kasbah 22 Rue Targui Modern Moroccan cuisine is
Tel (0635) 18 67 66 Tel (0539) 98 61 53 served in a charming riad patio
Enjoy traditional dishes with a Situated in the popular Hotel and garden in Tetouan’s medina.
creative twist at this restaurant Casa Hassan, this restaurant Blanco Riad is a popular option,
in a century-old Spanish house. serves grilled meats, soups, so advance booking is necessary.
desserts and most Moroccan No alcohol is served.
KASBAH: El Morocco Club 
Traditional/International Map D1
Place de Tabor
Tel (0539) 94 81 39
Set in a historic house designed
by Stuart Church, a well-known
painter and decorator in Tangier,
El Morocco Club has a restaurant,
piano bar and terrace café.
Mediterranean
Coast & the Rif
AL-HOCEIMA: Club Nautique 
International Map E1
Port Gates, Port d’Al Hoceima
Tel (0539) 98 14 61
This no-nonsense establishment
offers sweeping views of the bay, Rooftop tables with an excellent view, Le Mirage Restaurant, Cap Spartel
TETOUAN: Hotel Marina Smir

Thalasso & Spa 
International Map D1
Marina Smir, Rue de Sebta
Tel (0539) 97 12 34
Essentially serving the five-star
Hotel Marina Smir, this restaurant
welcomes visiting diners as well.
Attractively furnished, it
overlooks the hotel’s gardens.
Fès
CITY CENTRE: Café Kortoba 
Café Map D2
Derb Boutouil
Located next to the country’s
second-largest mosque, the Picturesque setting of the Fes et Gestes in Medina
Karaouiyine, with its minaret
soaring above, Café Kortoba enjoyed on the terrace at this MEDINA:
is an excellent place to take quiet little retreat in Fès’s La Maison Bleue 
a break for a mint tea, light snack, bustling medina. Traditional Map D2
coffee or fresh juice. Cash only. 2 Place de Batha
MEDINA: Le Palais Tel (0535) 74 18 43
de Fes  One of the most romantic places
DK Choice Traditional Map D2 in town, La Maison Bleue offers
MEDINA: Café Clock  15 Rue Makhfia signature Moroccan dishes in
Moroccan Fusion Map D2 Tel (0535) 76 15 90 an elegant dining atmosphere.
7 Derb El Magana, Talaa Kbira Gaze in amazement at the Begin with light snacks in the
Tel (0535) 63 78 55 breathtaking view of the medina courtyard and then sit on plump
Home of the camel burger, while sampling the many couches and enjoy live music.
Café Clock also provides light excellent local dishes at this Open for dinner only.
takes on traditional dishes spacious spot, suited to groups.
and serves scrumptious salads. VILLE NOUVELLE:
Offering cookery classes and MEDINA: Restaurant Dar Roumana 
food tours, this stylish but fun Numero 7  Traditional Map D2
establishment manages to Mediterranean/Moroccan Map D2 30 Derb El Amer, Zkak Rouman
get it all just right at throw- 7 Zkak Rouah Tel (0535) 74 16 37
away prices. Tel (0535) 63 89 24 Dine at this lovely, intimate
This talk-of-the-town restaurant to truly “feel” the
establishment, with its largely magic of this ancient city.
MEDINA: Fes et Gestes  monochrome interior, has a Book ahead and check dining
French/Moroccan Map D2 very talented French chef at its times as these may vary.
39 Arsat El Hamoumi, Ziat helm. It offers light fare and
Tel (0535) 63 85 32 vegetarian dishes, as well as VILLE NOUVELLE:
This is a good eatery in a restored more hearty meat and fish L’Italien 
colonial house with a seasonal dishes. In the afternoons, the Italian Map D2
menu of French and Moroccan stunning gallery-style space Av Omar Ibn Khattab,
dishes. Hours tend to vary, so it is opens as a salon de thé. Champs de Courses
advisable to phone ahead. Tel (0535) 94 33 84
MEDINA: Al Jounaina  Fresh, seasonal produce is used
MEDINA: Thammi’s  Traditional Map D2 at this trendy pizzeria serving
Traditional Map D2 Sofitel Fès Palais Jamai, Bab Guissa wood-fired pizzas, plus pastas
Bab Boujloud, at the top of Talaa Tel (0535) 63 43 31 with a range of superb sauces.
Sghira, between the barbershop Dine like royalty while listening The loft-style interior can get
& Hammam Mernissi to live traditional music at dinner, noisy late in the evenings. No
Hordes of expats and Moroccans or make the most of the lavish credit cards.
head to Thammi’s every day to sit lunch buffet on the terrace earlier
at simple tables and tuck into in the day. The salad bar alone VILLE NOUVELLE:
dishes such as kefta (meatballs) provides a sumptuous feast. Maison Blanche 
and eggs and lamb with prunes. Mediterranean Map D2
No credit cards. MEDINA: Dar Tajine  12 Rue Ahmed Chaouki
Traditional Map D2 Tel (0535) 62 27 27
MEDINA: Riad El Ghalia, Derb Elghorba 71 The sister restaurant of the
Le Chameau Bleu  Tel (0535) 63 58 34 famous Parisian eatery of the
Traditional Map D2 Delicious home-cooking is same name, this high-end
1 Derb Tariana Talaa Kbira, near supervised by a warm, establishment offers delectable
Medersa Bouanania welcoming hostess. Dar Tajine Mediterranean cuisine, along
Tel (0535) 63 89 91 is set in one of the finest riads with Moroccan and European
Tasty classic Moroccan dishes, in the medina, a magnificent wines, a full bar menu and a
at reasonable prices, can be 19th-century palace. comprehensive cigar list.
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 314– 15
VILLE NOUVELLE: MEKNÈS MEDINA: MEKNÈS VILLE NOUVELLE:

Picoolos  Le Goût de Meknes  Le Relais de Paris 
International Map D2 Traditional Map D2 French Map D2
Royal Tennis Club de Fès, 2 Rue Kerstoune, opposite the Grand 46 Rue Oqba, Ibn Nafia
Route de Zwagha Mosque Tel (0535) 51 54 88
Tel (0535) 72 99 99 Tel (0660) 64 29 95 Like its sister restaurants in
This is an elegant restaurant Enjoy Moroccan classics at this other major towns, this outlet
offering the best French and welcoming family-run restaurant offers consistently high-
international dishes in a chic in the medina. quality French brasserie-style
and modern atmosphere. meals in pleasant surroundings
High-quality wines complete MEKNÈS VILLE NOUVELLE: with great views.
the experience. Gambrinus 
International Map D2 MOULAY IDRISS:
Rue Omar Ibn Asse Dyar Timnay 
Tel (0535) 52 02 58 Traditional Map D2
Meknès and Do not be deterred by the 7 Rue Ain Rjal BP141
Volubilis somewhat faded interior of
this popular budget eatery.
Tel (0661) 10 43 18
Delicious tajines and couscous
MEKNÈS: Zitouna  Knowledgeable locals flock here are available at this restaurant,
Traditional Map D2 for its tasty, cheap and whole- part of a small hotel with the
44 Rue Jamaa Zitouna, close to the some food, such as tajines, same name. The terrace seating
Grand Mosque and the souks couscous and brochettes. offers lovely views of Volubilis.
Tel (0535) 53 02 81 No credit cards
Not the easiest restaurant to VOLUBILIS: La Corbeille
find, but well worth the effort, MEKNÈS VILLE NOUVELLE: Fleurie 
Zitouna is housed in a beautiful Métropole  Traditional Map D2
old building. The restaurant Traditional Map D2 Ruins of Volubilis
oozes character, the Moroccan 12 Av Hassan II La Corbeille Fleurie is simple
dishes are excellent and the set Tel (0535) 52 25 76 and straightforward as far as
menu options represent good High ceilings and ornate walls the food goes, but the views
value. Cash only. impart a sense of space and of the valley from its terraces
elegance. The outside dining area are simply outstanding and
MEKNÈS: Le Dauphin  is perfect for eating al fresco. worth the stop.
5 Av Mohammed V
Tel (0535) 52 34 23 DK Choice
Le Dauphin’s menu offers a wide MEKNÈS VILLE NOUVELLE: Middle Atlas
selection of international dishes. Le Collier de la Colombe
The decor is slightly faded, but Traditional/ BENI MELLAL: SAT Agadir 
the friendly service more than International Map D2 Traditional Map D3
makes up for it. A good option 67 Rue Driba 155 Blvd el-Hansali
for groups. Tel (0535) 55 50 41 Tel (0523) 48 14 48
Panoramic views of the great This modest eatery does not
MEKNÈS: Riad Meknes  Wadi Boufekrane from the main pretend to offer luxury decor
Traditional Map D2 dining hall and terraces ensure or fine dining – it simply provides
79 Ksar Chaacha that Le Collier de la Colombe good food at low prices and the
Tel (0535) 53 05 42 stands out from the rest. It is chance to meet other travellers.
Part of the palace of the 17th- especially popular for its family Cash only.
century ruler Moulay Ismail, this Sunday lunches. The menu
restaurant serves up a good offers both Moroccan and IFRANE: Restaurant de la Paix 
range of mouthwatering international cuisine. Traditional Map D2
Moroccan dishes. Cash only. Av de la Marché Verte
Tel (0535) 56 66 75
Small and atmospheric, this
eatery offers some good local
dishes from a fairly limited
menu. The theme is largely
Moroccan, with the occasional
European dish.
IFRANE: Restaurant de
L’ Hôtel Perce-Neige 
Hôtel des Perce-Neige, Hay Riad,
Boulevard Mohammed VI
Tel (0535) 56 63 50
The restaurant at the Hôtel
Perce-Neige has earned
itself a reputation for good-
quality cuisine. Its lengthy
menu includes classic French
dishes that attract locals as
Gorgeous interiors at Zitouna, Meknès well as visitors.
DK Choice
IFRANE:
Michlifen Ifrane 
French/Moroccan Map D2
Av Hassan 2, BP 18
Tel (0535) 86 40 00
Michlifen Ifrane, a traditional
Swiss chalet, houses three
excellent restaurants. This
is the last word in mountain
luxury, and the quality of the
food and attentiveness of the
service certainly live up to its
stellar reputation.
KHENIFRA: Restaurant
de l’Hôtel de France 
Traditional Map D3 Convival atmosphere at the Le Comptoir Darna, Hivernage
Quartier des Forces Armées Royales
Tel (0535) 58 61 14 diner. L’Auberge Espagnole HIVERNAGE: Le Comptoir
Part of a small hotel on the serves tapas and authentic Darna 
road linking Fès to Marrakech, Spanish specialities for those Moroccan/International Map C3
this small restaurant offers a in need of a change from Av Echouada
range of good dishes. traditional Moroccan cuisine. Tel (0524) 43 77 02
In one of the fanciest areas of
OUZOUD: Riad des Cascades  GUÉLIZ: Bab Restaurant  town, this upmarket spot offers
Traditional Map C3 Moroccan/International Map C3 immaculate design and service,
Cascades d’Ouzoud Tanant Azilal Corner of Blvd Mansour Eddahbi plus top-quality dishes from a
Tel (0523) 42 91 73 & Rue Mohamed El Beqqal bistro-style menu. Dinner only.
Dine in the traditional Moroccan Tel (0524) 43 52 50
lounge or on the roof terrace Featuring gleaming white HIVERNAGE: La Table
overlooking Morocco’s most interiors with dashes of bold du Marche 
impressive waterfalls; then take a colour, this sleek restaurant International Map C3
walk down the path by the falls. could be in any major European Corner Av Echouada & Rue des Temples
Lucky visitors might catch a capital. On the menu is a range Tel (0524) 42 41 00
glimpse of the indigenous of tasty, light meals. Light meals, juices and hot drinks
Barbary apes. Bookings only. make a pleasant change from
GUÉLIZ: Le Grand Café heavy dishes in this chic part of
de la Poste  town. A good place to unwind.
French/Mediterranean Map C3
Marrakech Corner of Blvd El Mansour Eddahbi
DK Choice
and Av Imam Malik
GUÉLIZ: Café du Livre  Tel (0524) 43 30 38 MEDINA: Place Jamaa
International Map C3 Come to this warmly lit el-Fna Food Stalls 
44 Rue Tarik Ben Ziad restaurant in a wonderful Art Traditional Map C3
Tel (0524) 44 69 21 Deco building with a sweeping Place Jemaa el-Fna
The salads, desserts and fresh staircase and overstuffed Every visitor to Marrakech
juices at this popular café are armchairs for a light lunch, should visit the many food
wonderful. It has free Wi-Fi and dinner, afternoon tea or just stalls in the medina jostling
there is a quiz in English on cocktails. Service can be slow. for attention each evening. The
Monday nights. air fills with the aromas of
GUÉLIZ: Al Fassia  spiced roasting meats, the stall
GUÉLIZ: Les Negotiants  Traditional Map C3 lights dazzle and the whole
Café Map C3 55 Blvd Zerktouni square becomes the evening’s
Corner of Av Mohammed V and Tel (0524) 43 40 60 entertainment. Unmissable, and
Blvd Mohammed Zertouni Al Fassia is a popular restaurant to many, the city’s greatest draw.
Offering thick black coffee, that continues to wow both
snacks and the chance to shop local residents and visitors
from street hawkers outside, with a selection of top-notch MEDINA: Un Déjeuner
Les Negotiants promises a Moroccan specialities. It is run à Marrakech 
memorable Marrakech by an all-female staff. International Map C3
experience. Cash only. Corner Rue Kennaria & Rue Douar
GUÉLIZ: La Trattoria  Graoua
GUÉLIZ: Italian Map C3 Tel (0524) 37 83 87
L’Auberge Espagnole  179 Rue Mohammed el-Beqal The climb to the roof terrace is
Spanish Map C3 Tel (0524) 43 26 41 worth the effort at this European-
Corner Rue Tarik Ibn Ziad & Set in a colonial-style maison style bistro with salads and light
Moulay Ali and beautifully decorated, this lunches, plus heartier options,
Tel (0661) 11 26 09 upmarket Italian restaurant is a good children’s menu and
The chic exterior of this eatery a good choice for special delicious pastries. No alcohol
should not intimidate the casual occasions. Open for dinner only. or pork. Cash only. Dinner only.
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 314 –15
MEDINA: Marrakech
Henna Art Café 
Traditional Map C3
35 Derb Sqaya, Riad Zitoun Al Kdim
Tel (0524) 77 93 04
Enjoy simple local cuisine on a
sheltered terrace overlooking
the medina while having a
henna tattoo.
MEDINA:
Dar Marjana 
Traditional Map C3
15 Derb Sidi Ali Tair Bab Doukkala
Tel (0524) 38 51 10 Closed Tue
Romantic and luxurious, this
restaurant, in a former palace, The spectacular Dar Moha in the Medina
is richly decorated and twinkles
with lantern lights. It features traditionally plastered tadelakt, own table, on a griddle. The
regular music and dance shows. tinkling fountains and candlelight place is known for its use of
at this unabashedly romantic spot. fresh, mostly organic ingredients
MEDINA: Dar Moha  and its list of fine wines. It
Traditional Map C3 MEDINA: charges non-residents extra
81 Rue Dar El Bacha La Mamounia  to use the pool.
Tel (0524) 38 64 00 Moroccan/International Map C3
Located in the heart of the Av Bab Jdid
medina, in the former home Tel (0524) 38 86 00
of designer Pierre Balmain, Four restaurants, two of them High Atlas
Dar Moha serves delicacies and boasting Michelin stars, make
great Moroccan staple dishes, this one of the most fashionable
as well as more contemporary places to dine in Marrakech. DK Choice
meals. Book ahead. Throw in Moorish opulence ASNI: Kasbah Tamadot 
and an impressive history, and International Map C4
MEDINA: a great experience is guaranteed. Asni 042150
Dar Yacout  Tel (0524) 36 82 00.
Traditional Map C3 MEDINA: Pepe Nero  Owned by British entrepreneur
79 Sidi Ahmed Soussi, Bab Doukala Italian/Moroccan Map C3 Richard Branson, this restaurant
Tel (0524) 38 29 29 Closed Mon 17 Derb Cherkaoui, boasts a splendid location,
Housed in a restored palace, Douar Graoua perched on a mountain.
in the heart of the medina, Tel (0524) 38 90 67 Closed Mon Stunning views, great (and
this is one of the top dining Choose from the Italian or surprisingly affordable) food
spots in which to experience Moroccan menu here and and the knowledge that some
the romance of Marrakech. drink in the lovely ambience, of the money spent here filters
complete with fountains, back into the local community
MEDINA: Le Foundouk  candles, pools and lush plants. make it a great dining choice. It
Moroccan/International Map C3 It may be a bit hard to find, so also offers cooking lessons and
55 Rue du Souk El Fassis ask for directions. demonstrations. Reservations
Tel (0524) 37 81 90 Closed Mon are essential for dinner.
Le Foundouk is located in a MEDINA: Le Tobsil 
riad-style building that allows Moroccan Map C3
diners to look down into an 22 Derb Moulay Abdellah ben IMLIL: Kasbah du Toubkal 
inner courtyard. The luxurious Hessaien Bab Ksour Traditional Map C4
decor is accompanied by a Tel (0524) 44 40 52 Closed Tue; Jul & Toubkal National Park
tempting menu. Aug Tel (0524) 48 56 11
Enjoy an intimate and romantic This has to be one of the most
MEDINA: Gastro MK at dinner in the central courtyard striking places to eat in the
Maison MK  of this beautiful traditional Atlas region. It might be a bit of
French Map C3 house. The food is good, but a climb or mule-ride to reach,
4 Derb Sebaai, Quartier Ksour the main lure here is the chance but the effort is worth it for the
Tel (0524) 37 61 73 Closed Wed to get a glimpse inside the ambience and simple yet tasty
A highly creative menu is building. Booking essential. Moroccan food. Advance
executed to perfection at this booking is recommended.
outstanding gastro-styled OUTSKIRTS: Manzil
restaurant. It is wise to book la Tortue  OUIRGANE: La Bergerie 
well in advance. French/Moroccan Map C3 Moroccan/French Map C4
Km 12 Rue de Ouarzazate, Douar Douar Imarigha, Km 59 Route de
MEDINA: La Maison Gzoula, Commune Al Ouidane Taroudant
Arabe  Tel (0525) 11 88 86 Tel (0524) 48 42 81
Traditional/International Map C3 Manzil la Tortue is a guesthouse At La Bergerie, in the heart of the
1 Derb Assehbé Bab Doukkala situated amid olive groves, in Toubkal National Park, you can
Tel (0524) 38 70 10 a lovely spot outside town. enjoy a delicious meal while
Dine under a hand-painted Diners here can order from taking in panoramic views of the
ceiling, surrounded by the menu or cook at their Atlas Mountains.
OUIRGANE: restaurant serves Moroccan

Domaine Malika  dishes such as harira and tajines, DK Choice
French Map C4 lemon chicken and couscous. BOUMALNE DU DADÈS:
Douar Marigha, Rue d’Amizmiz Dine by the side of the pool Hôtel Xaluka
par Asni, Imlil or inside, in front of a fire. A Dades 
Tel (0661) 49 35 41 children’s menu is also available. International Map D4
One of the most charming places Rd Arfoud to Errachidia km 5
to eat in the area. Fresh, locally OURIKA VALLEY: Tel (0524) 83 00 60/61
sourced ingredients are used. Bab Ourika  After the numerous hairpin
Choose between inside dining or International Map C4 bends of the passes, or a night
the terrace by the pool. Tnine Ourika in the desert, the overloaded
Tel (0661) 63 42 34 buffet table at this restaurant
OUIRGANE: La Roseraie  There can be few places in the can seem almost like a mirage.
Traditional/French Map C4 area as beautiful as this hotel- Amid the mountains of delicious
Km 60 Route de Taroudant par restaurant, nor many menus as Moroccan and continental
Marrakech pleasing. Enjoy masterful food food and candles flickering
Tel (0524) 43 91 28 in a magical setting. Many of by the pool, diners will find
Sample local specialities at this the ingredients are grown helpful waiters darting about in
charming retreat for nature lovers in the hotel’s own garden. traditional dress – all of it making
in the tranquil foothills of the Booking essential. for a memorable, and filling,
Atlas Mountains, the heart of dining experience.
Berber country TIZI-N-TEST PASS ROAD:
La Belle Vue 
OUKAÏMEDEN: Chez JuJu  Traditional Map B4 ERFOUD: Restaurant
Traditional Map C4 Signposted from the Pass des Dunes 
Signposted from the village Tel (067) 05 58 44 Moroccan/Italian Map E4
of Oukaïmeden One of few places to eat in the 142 Av Moulay Ismaïl, opposite
Tel (0524) 31 90 05 area, La Belle Vue is located on the ZIZ pretol station
A ski-chalet hotel-restaurant, the top floor of a hotel and offers Tel (0535) 57 67 93
Chez JuJu offers a European-style simple but wholesome dishes, There are surprisingly good
menu and simple, delicious food such as tagines, salads and lamb. pizzas, in addition to other more
to satisfy the skiers and mountain The valley views from the terrace classic Moroccan dishes, at this
hikers who stop by. are remarkable. Cash only. restaurant on the upper floor
of a Moorish-inspired building
OURIKA VALLEY: Nectarome  complete with a terrace that
Health Food Map C4 overlooks the town.
Lot Pinatel, Tniine Ouarzazate & the
Tel (0524) 48 21 49 Southern Oases ERFOUD: Restaurants
of the Hôtel Bélère
This is a great lunch spot for a 
light meal or refreshments. AÏT BEN HADDOU: International Map E4
Salads and snacks are served in Auberge Restaurant Etoile Hôtel Bélère, Route de Rissani
a tranquil herb garden, encircled Filante D’Or  Tel (0535) 57 81 90
by mountain peaks. Traditional Map C4 Choose from three excellent
Centre Aït Ben Haddou restaurants serving Italian,
OURIKA VALLEY: Le Maquis  Tel (0524) 89 03 22 Asian and international dishes,
Traditional Map C4 The romantic terrace at this housed within the Hôtel Bélère,
Auberge Le Maquis, km 45 well-priced restaurant rewards one of the largest hotels in this
Aghbalou Ourika evening visitors with spectacular relatively quiet desert town.
Tel (0524) 48 45 31 views of the night sky, while Menus change regularly. There
Housed within the characterful the kitchen provides authentic is also a bar on site.
hotel Auberge Le Maquis, this Moroccan mains and desserts.
ERFOUD: Restaurants of
the Hôtel Xaluca 
International Map E4
Hôtel Xaluca, Rd Erfoud to
Errachidia Km 5
Tel (0535) 57 84 50
This impressive air-conditioned
restaurant in the Hôtel Xaluca is
packed with desert character. It
caters well for large groups. Enjoy
the blazing fire in the cold months.
OUARZAZATE: Chez Talout 

Traditional Map C4
Oulad Aarbiya
Tel (0524) 85 26 66
Overlooking Skoura’s oasis is
this charming inn-restaurant.
Ask to dine on the terrace and
enjoy magical desert views.
It is great for kids, with a pool
Outdoor seating at the Bab Ourika in the Ourika Valley and patio seating.
OUARZAZATE: Les Kasbahs RAMLIA: Auberge

des Sables  Aghbalou Ramlia  Southern Morocco
International
195 Hay Ait Ksif
Map C4 Traditional Map E4
Auberge Ramlia, Taouz Rissani
& Western Sahara
Tel (0524) 88 54 28 Those who make the trek to
Diners in search of a more Auberge Aghbalou Ramlia will
authentic meal than that at be rewarded with simple yet DK Choice
their hotel might want to try delicious food, which is served AGADIR: Harbour Stalls 
this traditionally decorated, under a star-filled sky with a Seafood Map B4
desert-style restaurant. The panoramic view of the mountains. Agadir Harbour
muted plasterwork is especially Booking essential. Cash only. Numerous little stalls line
romantic by lantern light. the street alongside Agadir
SKOURA: Kasbah Ait Abou  harbour, emitting tempting
OUARZAZATE: Restaurant Traditional Map C4 aromas that beg further
of the Berbere Palace  Palmeraie de Skoura BP60 investigation. Skewered meat
International Map C4 Tel (0524) 85 22 34 and, primarily, fish are the
Quartier Mansour Eddahbi 55 Simple yet delicious cooking is favourites of tourists and locals
Tel (0524) 88 31 05 on offer at this partially tented alike. This is a great place to
Dine like royalty for a fraction desert kasbah with oasis and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere
of European prices at Berbere desert views. Breakfast, lunch, of a balmy Moroccan evening
Palace. Choose from one of dinner and tea can be served and the proximity of the town
three menus – Moroccan, outside in the carpet-strewn to the ocean.
international and Italian. Berber tents. Booking essential.
OUARZAZATE: Restaurant AGADIR: Jour et Nuit 

Chez Dimitri  DK Choice Traditional Map B4
International Map C4 SKOURA: Dar Ahlam  Av Tawada (formerly Rue de la Plage)
22 Av Mohammed V International Map C4 Tel (0528) 82 23 47
Tel (0524) 88 73 46 Douar Oulad Cheikh Ali, Duck into this air-conditioned
Ask any local where Chez Dimitri Kasbah Madihi restaurant, located on the
is, and the chances are they would Tel (0524) 85 22 39 promenade, especially for
have dined there on several The pure extravagance of this lunch, as the sun reaches its
occasions. This was one of the place might make visitors blink, hottest. Also open for dinner.
first good restaurants to open in but relax in the knowledge that
Ouarzazate and is a popular spot this is probably one of the world’s AGADIR: Little Norway 
for family parties and celebrations. most romantic picnic spots. It’s French Map B4
not cheap, but then sheer Complexe Tamlelt, Secteur Balnéaire
OUARZAZATE: Restaurant luxury seldom is. Book ahead Tel (0528) 84 08 48
Douyria  or check annual closings. Oddly, there appears to be no
Traditional Map C4 link between Norway and this
Av Mohamed V, Taourirt intimate French restaurant;
Tel (0524) 88 52 88 ZAGORA: Auberge Restaurant however, the portions are
Enjoy lakeside and mountain Chez Ali  generous, tasty and well priced,
views at this rammed earth Traditional Map D4 as are the wines and beers.
lodge’s restaurant. On the Avenue Atlas-Zaouite el Baraka
menu are traditional desert Tel (0524) 84 62 58 AGADIR:
Moroccan dishes, including This family-owned getaway Le Parasol Bleue 
camel, pigeon and rabbit, serves delicious traditional French Map B4
served in colourful surroundings. dishes in a flower-filled garden. 7 Promenade Tawada
Phone ahead to book a table. Tel (0528) 84 87 44 Closed Wed
OUARZAZATE: Restaurant For those planning on staying dinner; Sun & Mon
of the Hôtel Ibis overnight, note that the rooms Hidden away from the main
Ouarzazate Centre  are simple but comfortable. promenade, this simple but
Moroccan/International Map C4
Av Moulay Rachid
Tel (0524) 89 91 10
Popular with both guests and
other tourists, this reliable hotel-
restaurant has several excellent
Moroccan and international
dishes on the menu.
OUARZAZATE: Restaurant
Sultana Royal Golf 
International Map C4
Golf Royal
Tel (0524) 88 74 21
Stunning lakeside views and
a well-executed menu are
the draws at this desert getaway
restaurant, within the hotel of
the same name. Lush gardens
and modern, bright interiors. Unique interiors of Dar Ahlam, Skoura
Charming dining area at Hôtel La Gazelle d’Or, Taroudannt
pleasing French-owned along with fresh fish and seafood TAROUDANNT:

restaurant offers good-value dishes in this sophisticated Jnane Soussia 
food, including a set lunch menu. marina restaurant. Traditional Map B4
Rue de Marrakech
AGADIR: Mezzo Mezzo  DAKHLA: Villa Dakhla  Tel (0528) 85 49 80
Italian Map B4 Moroccan/ These Berber-style tents under
19 Av Hassan II Mediterranean Map A5 the stars are very popular with
Tel (0528) 84 88 19 Blvd Mohammed V groups, though lone travellers
Popular with locals and holiday- Tel (0648) 31 58 18 can stop by too. Copious
makers alike, this vibrant Hungry travellers will be amounts of food, plus music
restaurant offers classic Italian surprised to find a good and dancing (on request) make
fare, along with delicious desserts restaurant in what could be for an unforgettable experience.
and a range of alcoholic drinks. described as “the middle of Booking essential.
nowhere”. Villa Dakhla may not
AGADIR: Riad Villa Blanche  be fine dining, but they do TAROUDANNT: Restaurant
French/Moroccan Map B4 serve a range of tasty dishes L’Agence 
N°50 Baie des Palmiers cité Founty in pleasant surroundings. Traditional Map B4
Tel (0528) 21 13 13 Blvd Prince Heritier Sidi
Find fine dishes befitting the SIDI IFNI: Restaurant of the Mohamed
fanciest Parisian tables here. Hôtel Bellevue  Tel (0528) 55 02 70 Closed Sun
Choose from French or Moroccan Traditional Map A5 The use of seasonal ingredients
delights, or opt for one of the Hôtel Bellevue, Place Hassan II in the creation of some
impressive tasting menus. A Tel (0528) 87 50 72 wonderful dishes and a very
snack menu is available at the bar. Come to this restaurant for a central location make this
selection of well-presented budget eatery one of the best
AGADIR: Les Blancs  Moroccan dishes prepared eating options in town.
Spanish/Mediterranean Map B4 with fresh ingredients, good
Marina d’Agadir service and staggering views TAROUDANNT: Hôtel
Tel (0528) 82 83 68 from the clifftop. La Gazelle d’Or 
The great view over Agadir’s French Map B4
magnificent beach accompanies SIDI IFNI: Restaurant Centre of Taroudant
the truly superlative Spanish Nomad  Tel (0528) 85 20 39
food, a change from the Traditional Map A5 One way to experience this
Moroccan and French cuisines 5 Av Moulay Youssef legendary hotel without paying
offered elsewhere. Tel (0662) 17 33 08 for one of its exclusive rooms is
A welcome find in a small to dine at its excellent French
AGADIR: Jean Cocteau  town, Restaurant Nomad has restaurant, often populated by
European Map B4 a charming owner and a warm the rich and famous. The chef
Blvd Mohammed V ambience. Service can be on uses the freshest organic, home-
Tel (0528) 82 11 11 the slow side, but you can bring grown produce. Advance
This is a pretty ritzy place to your own wine. booking is essential.
dine in, located as it is inside
Casino Shem’s, but the menu TAFRAOUTE: Restaurant TIZNIT: Riad Le Lieu 
is surprisingly simple – ranging La Kasbah  Traditional Map B5
from salads to burgers. Traditional Map B4 273 Impasse Issaoui, Rue
Rue Aguerd-Oudad Haddada
AGADIR: Restaurant Tel (0672) 30 39 09 Tel (0528) 60 00 19
Pur Passion  A welcoming restaurant in the It is advisable to phone in
International Map B4 centre of town, La Kasbah advance to secure a table in
Complexe Marina d’Agadir provides traditional Moroccan the courtyard of this small
Tel (0528) 84 01 20 dishes prepared with fresh, riad and dine on French or
Enjoy organic vegetables grown locally sourced ingredients. Moroccan dishes cooked to
in the restaurant’s own garden Great value for money. perfection. Friendly service.
SHOPPING IN MOROCCO
Every village in Morocco has its weekly are laid out according to the type of goods
souk. Lasting for a few hours, souks are busy, that they sell. Traders are friendly and always
colourful places where agricultural produce ready to please their customers. The rich and
and craft items brought by country people diverse range of Moroccan crafts can be
are sold alongside a range of other essential found in the country’s souks and markets, as
everyday items, making souks a major part well as at cooperative craft outlets and
of Moroccan life. Large towns have several specialist shops, and are also offered for sale
souks. These take place in the medinas and by the roadside along tourist routes.
however, business goes on as

normal, although some larger
shops close in the middle of
the day. During Ramadan,
grocers’ shops open late in the
morning, close for part of the
day and then open from
the evening until very late.
Shops run by Jews close on
Saturdays (the Sabbath). In
large towns and cities, clothes
shops and fabric shops open
from 9am to noon and from Dates stacked in baskets and ready for sale,
3pm to 7pm. They do not open Ziz Gorge
on Sundays. The hypermarkets
that have sprung up in all large Food Stores
towns are open from 9am to All towns are very well provided
9pm seven days a week. with grocers’ shops. In villages,
Slipper merchant with a colourful range of the grocer’s is the only place,
footwear in Tafraoute apart from the weekly souk,
Methods of Payment where people can buy provisions
Opening Hours Credit cards are accepted only and essential items.
Country souks take place only in large towns and cities and in These shops are usually no
in the morning. Grocers’ shops, modern shops. Some shop bigger than a large cupboard.
local supermarkets and butchers’ keepers will automatically add They are fitted with shelves
shops are open every weekday a percentage as tax onto the from floor to ceiling, and offer
from 8am to 9pm, although total if you choose this form of all kinds of foods and household
they close for about two hours payment. Also, credit card slips goods. It is wise to avoid buying
in the middle of the day. Some can be predated or printed perishable items such as yogurt
may also open on Sundays, twice without your knowing. It is and milk, since there is no
when different opening hours best, therefore, to carry sufficient guarantee that they are fresh.
apply. Friday is theoretically a amounts of cash before setting In butchers’ shops, what is on
day of rest for Muslims; off on a shopping trip. offer is neither labelled nor priced.
Fruit and vegetable shops,
dairies and bakers are found
only in large towns. Although
French bread was introduced
during the Protectorate,
Moroccans prefer kesra, a round
loaf baked at home or in the
local communal oven.
A few charcuteries, selling
cooked meats, have appeared
in Casablanca, Rabat and
Marrakech but they are geared
to an exclusively Western
clientele, pork being forbidden
to Muslims. By using a local
supermarket, you can check the
Semi-precious stones laid out for sale at the roadside, Middle Atlas sellby dates of fresh produce
SHOPPING IN MOROCCO  333
(when they are marked, that is).

Imported foods can also be
bought in supermarkets.
Hypermarket chains were
set up in Morocco several years
ago. There are supermarkets
in all the major towns.
Markets
All large towns have several
markets that supply fresh fruit
and vegetables to the population
every day of the year. In every
market there is a fresh herb A brassware and copperware shop in the Quartier Habbous, Casablanca
stall and a spice and olive stall.
Household utensils, basketry In the medinas of Rabat, Fès, you wish to buy or at least to
and craft items are also on sale. Marrakech and Taroudannt, have a price in mind beyond
In the harbours along the souks take place almost daily. which you will not go. By
Atlantic coast, particularly in Their location and layout are contrast, if you refuse to raise
the towns of Oualidia, Safi, dictated by the nature of what your offer sufficiently to allow
Essaouira and Agadir, the fruits they offer. More oriented the seller to make a profit, he
of the daily catch – such as towards tourists than are the will not pursue the transaction.
sole, sardines, perch, shrimps, country souks, they offer a The real purpose of bargaining
squid and oysters – can be huge range of craft items is to obtain the desired object
eaten on the spot. from all over Morocco. while feigning indifference. This
Fassi glazed pottery is by no is why bargaining takes time and
means identical to that made in should be a subtle game
Souks Salé or Safi, and it differs from between buyer and seller.
For foreign visitors, souks are the Berber pottery of the Rif or
lively and authentic expressions that made in Tamegroute. Thuya
of rural life in Morocco (see wood (see p126) is a speciality of Forgeries
p205), offering the opportunity Essaouira; Ouaouzguite carpets Souks in medinas and in
to see a fascinating and genuine are renowned in Tazenakht; and Morocco’s major tourist
aspect of the country. Taking El-Kelaa M’Goun is famous for centres offer “authentic” goods
place once a week, souks are its daggers. of dubious quality and origin,
the focus of economic, social and for very inflated prices.
and administrative life in You are advised to be on your
Morocco’s rural areas. Country How to Bargain guard against goods that,
people come from miles In Morocco, bargaining is not so contrary to what the seller may
around to stock up on supplies much a custom as a duty. Every assure you, are often no more
or to exchange agricultural self-respecting Moroccan uses than skilfully concocted and
produce (such as fruit, this method, even when buying very convincing forgeries.
vegetables, eggs, butter and vegetables in the souk or
cereals) or craft items (such renting a hotel room. In craft
as pottery and carpets) for tea, shops, no prices are marked
oil, sugar and spices. Also on and the shopkeeper considers
offer are plastic utensils and it quite natural that potential
clothing made of synthetic clients should bargain over
fabrics, along with chickens, the price. When a potential
sheep and sometimes mules. customer shows an interest, the
shop-owner will
quote an initial price,
which often bears no
relation to the real
price of the object in
question but which
tests the buyer’s
willingness to make
a counter-offer.
In order to bargain
effectively, it is
important to know A bellows merchant in the souk
Produce stall at the Tahar el-Alaoui market in Casablanca the value of what in Marrakech
334  travellerS’ needS
What to Buy in Morocco

Souks in Morocco present the visitor with a vast
choice of jewellery, leather goods, wrought-iron
work, brass and copper, pottery, carpets, basketry
and fabrics. But the quantity, colours and sheer
diversity of the items on offer can be bewildering
and it can be difficult to distinguish quality pieces
from inferior ones. Before deciding to buy, it is best
to take some time to compare what is on offer in different
shops. Country craft items offered for sale in markets Pouffe
are genuine and utilitarian, ranging from the baskets Like other leather goods, this
pouffe is made of good-quality
carried by donkeys and combs for carding wool to goatskin or sheepskin, which, after
terracotta coolers for keeping milk or dried meat fresh. tanning, is dyed and embroidered.
Ceramics
The place of origin of ceramics can
be identified by their colours and decoration.
Pottery from Fès is the most refined, that
from Salé is glazed in pale colours, and that
from Safi features polychrome colours and
Berber motifs. Potters also devise new
designs, such as that on the vase shown
on the left.
Vase from Safi
Vase
Ashtray
This is an example
of Fès blue-glazed
ware. The Fassi
pottery industry
goes back to the
10th or 11th Decorated tajine Plate with a modern
centuries. dish design
Wood and Stone Carving

Fès, Tetouan and Azrou are renowned for their carved cedar. In
Essaouira, craftsmen work with thuya wood (see p126), making
boxes in various shapes, statues, trays, frames and other pieces.
In Taroudannt, objects are carved from soft stone, and in Erfoud
trinkets and other small items are fashioned from marble.
Thuya Camel
Small pieces like this figure
Inlaid Wood of a camel are easier to
Boxes and other objects made of thuya are make than larger items,
decoratively inlaid with yellow citron wood since thuya wood tends
and ebony or cedar. Duck carved in stone to split as it dries out.
shopping in morocco  335
Metalware Terracotta
Wrought iron, brown-hued copper, bright yellow brass Berber pottery features a
(a mixture of copper and zinc) and nickel silver (a mixture combination of simple,
of copper, zinc and nickel) are the main materials used sturdy shapes, ochre
in Moroccan metalware. The finest pieces and brown colours and
are engraved or damascened (inlaid with geometric motifs.
contrasting metal).
Brass tray
Terracotta kasbah
Teapot
A squat teapot with
tapering lid, made
of stainless steel or
silver, is an essential
piece of equipment
Lantern for making mint tea.
Berber pottery
Silver
Silver is the predominant material of Berber
jewellery. The most common items are brooches,
which Berber women wear in pairs, to secure their
veils at each shoulder. The shape and decoration
of brooches varies according to
the region.
Silver and Coral Necklace

Berber women traditionally
Hand of Fatima, wear a lot of jewellery. Today,
a lucky charm Anklet Koumiya dagger jewellery is made increasingly
of synthetic resin that mimics
the colour of coral.
Clothing
Jellabas, loose-fitting hooded cloaks with long
sleeves, and gandouras, tunics with short sleeves,
can be purchased in souks. Burnouses, hooded
woollen cloaks, are seen in rural areas. Embroidered
silk belts, traditionally
made in Fès, are highly
sought-after but are
increasingly difficult
to find.
Embroidery
Each city has its own traditions
and styles of embroidery. It is used
to adorn tablecloths, table napkins,
cushions and other items, in a
A child’s gandoura variety of patterns. Babouches
Moroccan Carpets
There are as many different types of carpets in Morocco as The fringe, at one end of the
carpet, is part of the warp.
there are tribal traditions. Moroccan carpets can, however,
be divided into two main groups: Berber carpets
and city carpets. The former are either knotted
or woven; they are pleasingly unrefined and
each one is unique. Their wool, which the
women weave into simple or complex patterns,
their harmonious colours, their shape and size,
and also their patterns, vary from one region
to another. City carpets, influenced by Oriental
traditions, are finer. Symbols of luxury, they
grace the living rooms of wealthy houses.
Berber Carpets
Most of the carpets made in Tazenaght and
Taliouine, in the High Atlas, are made by the
Ouaouzguite tribe. These carpets are typically long,
narrow and supple, and thus well suited to use in the
interiors of kasbahs in the Atlas.
Carpet Weaving
After the men have sheared
the sheep in the spring,
the women wash the wool
and carefully pick over it.
It is then carded, a process
by which the strands are
untangled by brushing
with comb-like implements.
Next, the wool is spun into
yarn with a small spindle.
Carding wool
Either in its natural colour
or after it has been dyed, the wool is then ready
to be woven. Berber women knot carpets on large,
rudimentary looms consisting of two wooden
vertical and two horizontal planks. The warp is set
up by threading strands vertically on the loom. Carpet from the High Atlas, in which woven
These determine the length and thickness of the bands alternate with knotted bands. The well-
carpet. The weft (the horizontal threads) are ordered geometric motifs feature lozenges,
threaded by hand between the strands of the triangles and broken lines.
warp, the weaver working row by row, pressing
the weave together with an iron comb.
Carpet made by the Zaïane of the Middle

Atlas, featuring a combination of strict
geometric and random motifs. These carpets
A weaver in Abachkou are well suited to use in tents or for covering
the beaten earth floors of houses.
SHOPPING IN MOROCCO  337
City Carpets
Woven in Rabat, Salé and Casablanca, city
carpets are perfectly symmetrical. They feature
floral and geometric motifs and are edged with
borders of differing widths.
A carpet seller in the Rue des Consuls in Rabat
Buying a Carpet
Colour and pattern are the primary considerations
when buying a carpet. Then come the material,
the carpet’s softness, the density of the weave
or knotting, and condition. A good-quality
carpet has clearly defined motifs and perfectly
straight edges. The value of a carpet is based
on the number of knots per row and the
density of the warp and weft. Some carpets
have up to 380,000 knots per square metre
(11 sq ft) and official price bands per square
metre apply. Carpets checked by the Ministry
of Crafts are hallmarked with the date that
they were checked, their provenance and
their quality. An orange label indicates extra-
superior quality; a blue label, superior quality;
a yellow label, medium quality, and a green
label, ordinary quality. Once the carpet has
been unrolled in front of you, you can start
to bargain (see p333).
Mediouna carpets, made in Casablanca, feature

shades of brick red or soft pink, and always have a Carpet shop in a crafts complex
lozenge-shaped or star-shaped central motif.
Haouz carpets, made in Middle Atlas carpets have Dyes are traditionally
Marrakech, are knotted. a woollen pile. The exact obtained from vegetable
They are characterized by a outlines of the pattern can extracts but are now very
background scattered with be seen only on their often supplemented by
naive motifs. smooth side. synthetic dyes.
ENTERTAINMENT IN
MOROCCO
Most nightlife in Morocco takes place in nightclubs is increasing, too, while Morocco’s
the large towns and cities. International thriving cultural life ensures a wide variety
tourism and the desire for modernity on the of entertainment. Certain private art galleries
part of the younger generation have both showcase the country’s artistic talent. The
contributed to the development of centres many feast days and moussems (pilgrimage
of culture and entertainment. These are often festivals) provide opportunities to watch
the best places to meet young Moroccans. shows that are more authentically Moroccan
The number of fashionable bars and than those aimed at tourists.
Cinemas understand French or Arabic,

Taking up the threads this might not be your first
of the movie culture choice of entertainment since
that the country most films are dubbed in
enjoyed in the 1950s, French, or are in Arabic.
when Moroccans had Daily local newspapers
the privilege of seeing provide information on what
early screenings of is showing, or you can phone
many American the cinemas themselves. The
productions, Moroccan cultural institutes in various
cinemas are enjoying cities (see p341) are also good
a new lease of life as is, sources of information.
to a certain extent, the
Moroccan film industry.
Authentically restored Theatres
auditoriums dating Morocco is not well
from the 1940s have endowed with theatres.
reopened, particularly They are found only in the
in Casablanca. The main cities, and productions
cinemas in Rabat are the are usually limited and
Renaissance and the irregular. Never theless,
Salle du 7eme Art. foreign theatrical companies
The Institut Français de Casablanca In Casablanca there perform in Morocco, and
are the Rialto, the efforts are being made to
Information Sources IMAX Morocco Mall and launch the Moroccan theatre,
Scanning the entertainment the Megarama; in Fès the which is still in its infancy.
section of various newspapers Megarama and the Rex; and, in Although theatre listings
(entitled “Spectacles” in Marrakech, the Colisée and the are usually given in the daily
Francophone publications) Megarama. In Tangier, the press, it is best to obtain
is the best way of checking leading cinemas are Le Paris information directly from
what’s on, even though they and the Rif: Cinémathèque the theatres or from
give such information only de Tanger. But if you don’t cultural institutions.
very irregularly.
The main daily newspapers
are El-Bayane, Le Matin du
Sahara, L’Opinion and Libération.
Weeklies include Le Magazine
and TelQuel. Monthly magazines,
such as Femmes du Maroc and
Citadine, or the fortnightly
Medina, carry listings of cultural
events. These publications are
available from kiosks as well
as in most tobacconists.
Unfortunately, there
are no good sources of
entertainment information
available in English. Throne Day, a highly colourful and popular event
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N M O R O CCO  339
Feast Days and Festivals

Prominent among the many
feast days that punctuate
the year (see pp42–5) are the
moussems. These large popular
gatherings usually focus on the
tomb of a saint (see pp202–203),
and are spectacular shows with
traditional dance performances.
Certain festivals, such as
the Marrakech Folk Festival
in June, draw dancers and
musicians from all over Morocco,
and the Gnaoua Music Festival
in Essaouira, also in June, offers
high-quality performances. Other
festivals include the Sacred
World Music Festival held in Fès
in June and the Rabat Cultural
Festival in July. Fantasias (pp38–9)
are typically high-spirited
Moroccan shows. They are
performed most famously at A group performing at the Festival of Andalusian Music in Fès
the moussem of Moulay
Abdallah, which takes place Shows and Concerts hearing Moroccan music can
near El-Jadida in August. Large hotels often organize choose between raï, which has
The types of dances Moroccan evenings giving roots in Bedouin music and
vary between the different visitors a chance to see whose star performer is Cheb
Berber and rural tribes. Often authentic popular performances Amrou; Gnaoua music, which
per formed are the ahouach of of music and dance. Mustapha Baqbou has taken to
the High Atlas and Ouarzazate, Certain restaurants also put many European jazz festivals;
and the ahidou of the Middle on performances of folk dance and the nostalgic chants of
Atlas, in which men and women in the evenings. At Chez Ali in Andalusian music. Many such
take part. The guedra, a dance Marrakech, on certain evenings concerts are organized by
from the Guelmim and Sahara, guests are served their meal various cultural institutes.
is performed by one woman in a tent while a fantasia is Ask the local tourist office
within a circle of musicians. performed. Those interested in for information.
DIRECTORY
Cinemas Rex TANGIER Mohamed, Belvédère.
Corner of Avenue Tel (0522) 40 99 45.
CASABLANCA Le Paris
Mohammed Es-Slaoui & 11 Rue de Fès. RABAT
IMAX Morocco Mall Boulevard Mohammed V. Tel (0539) 32 43 30.
Boulevard de la Tel (0535) 62 24 96. ∑ leparis-tanger.com Salle Haj
Corniche. MARRAKECH Mohammed Bahnini
Rif: Cinémathèque
Tel 0801 00 12 30. 1 Rue Gandhi.
Colisée de Tanger
Grand Socco. Tel (0537) 20 94 94.
Megarama Boulevard M. Zerktouni.
Tel (0539) 93 46 83. Théâtre Mohammed V
Boulevard de la Tel (0524) 44 88 93.
∑ cinematheque Charia al Mansour
Corniche.
Megarama detanger.com
Tel 0890 10 20 20. Eddahbi.
Jardins de L’Aguedal.
∑ megarama.ma Theatres Tel (0537) 70 73 00.
Tel 0890 10 20 20.
Rialto ∑ megarama.ma
AGADIR Shows
35 Rue Med Qorri. RABAT Théâtre Municipal Chez Ali
Tel (0522) 26 26 32.
Renaissance de Plein Air After Pont de Tensift,
FÈS 266 Avenue Mohammed V. Avenue Mohammed V.
Marrakech.
Megarama Tel (0537) 73 80 49. CASABLANCA Tel (0524) 30 77 30.
60 Avenue Hassan II. Salle du 7eme Art Théâtre Mohammed VI
Tel 0890 10 20 20. Avenue Allal Ben Abdellah. Corner Blvd Mohammed V
∑ megarama.ma Tel (0537) 70 29 40. & Rue Lieut. Mahroud
intimate and is located in one

of Gueliz’s villas. In Essaouira,
Fès, Ouarzazate, Rabat and
Tangier, it is mostly in hotel
bars that music can be heard.
The best approach is to obtain
information directly from
the various bars and
hotels themselves.
Nightclubs
Except in Casablanca, Rabat
and Marrakech, most nightclubs
The Villa des Arts in Casablanca in Morocco are located within
hotels. In Rabat, one of the most
Cultural Centres There is also a branch in Rabat, fashionable discos is L’Amnesia.
Among the most dynamic while the Matisse Arts Gallery In Casablanca, nightclubs are
cultural centres in Morocco and Dar Bellarj are in Marrakech. concentrated around Aïn-Diab.
are the French Cultural They include La Bodega and
Institutes, which are found in the V Club. Le Theatro at Hôtel
major cities. These organize a Es Saadi in Marrakech has a
wide-ranging programme, good reputation, as does Le
including exhibitions, film Flamingo in Agadir.
festivals highlighting the work While discos and nightclubs
of particular directors, as well are relatively empty on weekday
as concerts and theatrical Painting by Mohammed Tabal, one of nights, all are filled to capacity
performances. The remarkably Essaouira’s “free artists” at weekends and during
well laid-out Institut Français school holidays.
de Marrakech even has an Some close at about 3am
amphitheatre for open-air Piano Bars or 4am. Others stay open until
performances. The Spanish Places where traditional dawn, particularly in Marrakech,
Instituto Cervantes and the Moroccan music can be heard Agadir and other large
German Goethe Institut also are relatively few. However, tourist centres.
contribute to the promotion piano bars in large hotels and
of the artistic activity of the jazz clubs offer the opportunity
multiple cultures that coexist to hear European and North Casinos
in Morocco. American bands. Gambling is severely frowned on
These centres are good places The Amstrong Jazz Bar by Islam, so there are very few
to meet Moroccans who have an and the Villa Fandango in casinos in Morocco. The casino
interest in Europe. Programmes Casablanca, for example, are in La Mamounia, the famous
in the form of a bimonthly very fashionable. Marrakech hotel in Marrakech (see p311), is
pamphlet are available on the has several modish venues easily the most prestigious.
premises. The British Council such as the huge Al Anbar, If you decide to spend the
in Rabat also organizes an whose restaurant contains evening in a casino, dress
interesting range of events. several hundred tables and smartly. A jacket is essential, and
has live orchestras, and Le jeans, track-suits and trainers are
Montecristo, which is more definitely not acceptable.
Art Galleries
Since the Dane Frederic
Damgaard (see p128), opened
an art gallery in Essaouira in
1988, the artistic world in
Morocco has enjoyed a new
dynamism. Galleries exhibit the
work of painters from far and
wide, including, for example,
that of the well-known “free
artists of Essaouira” (see p129).
Galleries in Casablanca include
Venise Cadre and the Villa des
Arts, the latter an extensive
showcase of Moroccan artistic
creativity over the last 50 years. Nightclub in Agadir, with dancing beneath a replica of the Eiffel Tower
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N M O R O CCO  341
DIRECTORY
Cultural Centres Art Galleries MARRAKECH CASABLANCA
AGADIR AGADIR Al Anbar La Bodega

Artomania 47 Rue Jbel Lakhadar. 129–131 Rue Allal
Institut Français Ibn Abdellah.
El-Faïs Brahim estate Tel (0524) 38 07 63.
d’Agadir Tel (0522) 54 18 42.
(next to the Ecole Pigier), Le Churchill
Rue Cheinguit,
industrial quarter. V Club
Nouveau Talborjt. La Mamounia Hotel,
(0677) 21 46 33 Avenue Assa.
Tel (0528) 84 13 13. Bab el-Jedid.
CASABLANCA Tel (0522) 39 25 10.
CASABLANCA Tel (0524) 38 86 00.
Venise Cadre MARRAKECH
Goethe Institut Le Montecristo
25 Avenue Moulay 20 Rue Ibn Aïcha. Le Theatro at
11 Place du 16 Novembre. Rachid.
Tel (0524) 43 90 31. Hotel Es Saadi
Tel (0522) 20 77 35. Tel (0522) 36 60 76. Rue Ibrahim el Mazini.
Instituto Cervantes OUARZAZATE Tel (0524) 33 74 00.
Villa des Arts
31 Rue d’Alger. 30 Boulevard Roudani. Le Piano Bar RABAT
Tel (0522) 26 73 37. Tel (0522) 29 50 87. Hôtel Kenzi Azghor.
L’Amnesia
Institut Français ESSAOUIRA Tel (0524) 88 65 01.
18 Rue Monastir.
de Casablanca
Galerie Frederic Zagora Bar Tel (0615) 15 33 43.
121 Boulevard Zerktouni.
Damgaard Hôtel Karam Palace,
Tel (0522) 77 98 70. Casinos
Avenue Oqba Ibn Nafia. Tel (0524) 88 22 25.
FÈS Tel (0524) 78 44 46.
RABAT CASABLANCA
Institut Français MARRAKECH
Mazagan Beach
de Fès Dar Bellarj Amber Bar
Resort
33 Rue Loukili. 9 Toualate Zaouiate Sofitel Rabat Jardin des
El Jadida.
Tel (0535) 62 39 21. Lahdar. Roses, Souissi quarter.
Tel (0523) 38 80 00.
Tel (0524) 44 45 55. Tel (0537) 67 56 56.
MARRAKECH MARRAKECH
Matisse Arts Gallery Barrio Latino
Institut Français 61 Rue de Yougoslavie. La Mamounia
de Marrakech 61 Rue Oued Sebou,
Tel (0524) 44 83 26. Bab el-Jedid.
Route de Targa, Agdal.
Tel (0524) 38 86 00.
Jbel Gueliz. RABAT Tel (0537) 68 33 50.
Tel (0524) 44 69 30. Villa des Arts Le Puzzle
10 Rue Beni 79 Avenue Ibn
RABAT
Mellal Hassan.
Sina, Agdal.
British Council Tel (0537) 66 85 82.
Tel (0537) 67 00 30.
11 Avenue Allal ben
TANGIER
Abdellah. TANGIER
Tel (0537) 21 81 30. Lawrence Arnott
Art Gallery Caïd’s Bar
Instituto Cervantes 68 Rue Amra Ben Ass. Hôtel El-Minzah,
5 Rue Madnine. 85 Rue de la Liberté.
Tel (0537) 70 87 38. Piano Bars Tel (0539) 33 34 44.
Institut Français CASABLANCA El Carabo
de Rabat
Amstrong Jazz Bar Chellah Beach Club.
1 Rue Abou Inane.
16 Rue de la Mer Noire, Tel (0539) 32 50 68.
Tel (0537) 68 96 66.
Boulevard de la Corniche.
Sable’s Bar
TANGIER Tel (0664) 78 19 64.
Hôtel Tanjah-Flandria,
Instituto Cervantes Villa Fandango 6 Boulevard Med V.
99 Avenue Sidi Rue de la Mer Egée,
Tel (0539) 93 30 00.
Mohammed ben Abdellah. Boulevard de la Corniche.
Tel (0539) 93 20 01. Tel (0522) 79 74 77. Nightclubs
Institut Français FÈS
AGADIR
de Tanger Oasis Bar
2 Rue Hassan Hotel Royal Mirage, Le Flamingo
Ibn Ouazzan Avenue des F.A.R. Hôtel Beach Club.
Tel (0539) 94 10 54. Tel (0535) 93 09 09. Tel (0528) 84 43 43.
SPORTS & OUTDOOR

ACTIVITIES
Morocco’s mostly warm climate and is also a paradise for golfers. The
great topographical diversity make it Atlantic coast is internationally
suitable for all sorts of sports and outdoor renowned for surfing and sailboarding.
activities. The natural environment, often Thalassotherapy (therapeutic treatment
on a majestic scale, readily lends itself to using sea water and marine products)
horse riding, trekking, bird-watching and, has also developed, and thalassotherapy
in winter, skiing. In areas suitably developed centres continue to burgeon in the
for the purpose, the Moroccan landscape major tourist centres.
activities, however,
including hang gliding, hiking
and trekking (see pp344–5).
Fédération Royale Marocaine
de Ski et Montagne can
provide further information.
Golf
Many overseas travel agents
offer packaged golfing holidays
to Morocco. There are over 20
golf links in the country. Many
are pleasant and popular. In
addtion, there are the royal golf
The beach at Agadir, where horse rides are available courses (which are open to the
public) and numerous private
Horse Riding the resort is small, it is equipped courses, often forming part of
Thanks to the impulse provided with all the necessary facilities, hotel complexes, particularly in
by King Hassan II, horse riding including ski-lifts located near Agadir and Marrakech.
has become very popular in where ski equipment is hired. In April, the height of the
Morocco. Many equestrian Hiring equipment for a day costs holiday season, visitors are
centres have been established, about 250 dirhams. Skiers can advised to book in advance
and an International Equestrian sleep in one of several gîtes. to avoid a long wait.
Week takes place every year These elegant rest-houses are A handicap is theoretically
in Dar es-Salam, near Rabat, built in a combined European required although in practice
where the Fédération Royale and traditional Moroccan style. this is always overlooked.
Marocaine des Sports There are not many areas of the There are some excellent golf
Equestres is based. country that are suitable for coaches in Morocco, and their
Most horse riding is skiing, so this remains a marginal services can be hired for much
organized by clubs and large activity in Morocco. Mountain less than in Europe and the US.
hotels, mainly those in Agadir, resorts offer a diverse range of The low cost of tuition,
Marrakech and Ouarzazate. All
equestrian centres are staffed
by instructors with state-
approved qualifications.
Skiing
Although not primarily a winter
sports destination, Morocco
has several high-altitude resorts,
including Ifrane (see p216), near
Fès, and Oukaïmeden (see p252),
60 km (37 miles) from Marrakech.
Oukaïmeden can be reached by
grand taxi for a one-way fare
of about 400 dirhams. Although Oukaïmeden (see p252), renowned for its pistes
SPORTS AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES  343
Off-Road Driving DIRECTORY

Morocco is an excellent country
for off-road activities, either in a Horse Riding
four-wheel-drive vehicle or on Fédération Royale
a motorbike. The good network Marocaine des Sports
of tracks, even near large towns, Equestres
means that the hinterland is Tel (0537) 75 44 24
always within easy reach. (Rabat).
It is, however, advisable to
check your route thoroughly Skiing
and preferable to travel in groups
of two or more vehicles, since Fédération Royale
breaking down in a remote spot Marocaine de Ski
can be a real problem. Some et Montagne
areas, particularly in southern Tel (0522) 47 49 79
One of the many fine golf courses Morocco, near the border with (Casablanca).
in Morocco Mauritania, are patrolled by the
army and may be set with land Golf
combined with an often mines. It is unwise to venture Fédération Royale
outstanding natural environment, into this territory without the Marocaine de Golf
are ideal conditions for an help of a reliable guide. Tel (0537) 75 59 60
introduction to the sport. Further In Marrakech and Ouarzazate (Rabat).
information can be obtained quad bikes and go-karts can
from the Fédération Royale be hired and Wilderness Watersports
Marocaine de Golf. Wheels (see p345) organizes
all-inclusive motorcycle Club Mistral
excursions into the High Atlas ∑ club-mistral.com
Tennis mountains and the desert. (Essaouira).
Almost all the large hotels Fédération Royale
have tennis courts. The major Marocaine de Jet Ski et
towns and cities are also well Ski Nautique
provided with tennis clubs. Tel (0537) 70 43 20
Most of them have beaten (Rabat).
earth courts, the condition
of which can vary. Around
the courts it is not unusual to become very popular for
see young Moroccans, who kite-surfing. Most of these
readily offer their services as places are, however, suitable
ball boys or tennis partners. only for experienced surfers.
Many are good players. Strong winds, currents and
high waves are not safe
for beginners.
Bird-Watching The best surfing beaches
Morocco offers many excellent are also on the Atlantic coast.
opportunities for bird-watching, In summer, the beaches
and many travellers, particularly between Agadir and Essaouira
Britons and Americans, tailor are overrun by surfers from all
their visit around this interest. over the world. A particularly
The country has a small popular beach is La Madrague,
number of bird sanctuaries, near Taghazout, 20 km (12 miles)
the most important of them north of Agadir. There is also
at Souss Massa, south of Agadir Sailing, a popular sport off the a surfing centre, Club Mistral,
(see p296), and at Moulay Mediterranean coast in Essaouira.
Bousselham, north of Rabat (see For less strenuous water-
p94). The latter attracts large Watersports sports, there are also some
numbers of migratory birds, For surfers, certain spots very fine beaches all along
including some rare species. along Morocco’s Atlantic coast the Atlantic and Mediterranean
Unfortunately, these areas are among the best in the coasts. Sailing boats and jet-skis
are being threatened by the world. Essaouira and its can be hired on the latter.
massive urban development environs are the best-known Information on water-skiing,
that is spreading along the locations, and these are which is also available, can be
Moroccan coastline, despite Morocco’s windsurfing and obtained from the Fédération
the efforts of associations surfing centres, particularly in Royale Marocaine de Jet Ski
for the protection of birds. summer. Dakhla has also et Ski Nautique.
Hiking and Trekking

In the space of a few years, Morocco has become a paradise
for hikers. The country’s spectacular and varied landscape offers
great scope for hikers and trekkers of all abilities. However, any
hiking or trekking expedition requires preparation. It is essential
to take proper equipment, and basic safety precautions must
be observed. Options are many – whether to go on an organized
or an independent trek, and whether or not to have porters:
luggage carried by mule, camel or vehicle. The most important
decision is the choice of route through Morocco’s numerous
and highly diverse geographical regions.
Equipment
The most important piece A hike in the South, with luggage carried
of equipment is a good pair of by camels
walking boots. Even though
ordinary trainers may be quite also leaving your hands free.
adequate for a short walk on Also remember to pack water-
even ground, a strong pair of purifying tablets, so that you
walking boots is essential for can drink from springs and
longer and more demanding refreshing mountain streams
walking over rough ground. along the way.
As for clothing, strong,
lightweight fabrics are the best
choice. Although it rarely rains Types of Hiking
in Morocco, it is prudent to pack Some hikes are organized with
a rainproof garment as well the advantage of using animals
Mountain biking, an increasingly popular as a few warm clothes, since to carry equipment. Hikes with
activity in Morocco temperatures drop quickly at mules take place in the Atlas,
high altitudes. Finally, even for a a region where this animal is
Basic Safety Precautions short walk, always take enough particularly at home. Further
The first consideration is your water, and something to eat. south, camels are used to carry
physical condition. You must A first-aid kit is also necessary. luggage and food supplies.
be able to withstand the The minimum that it should Caravans of camels are a
sometimes arduous demands contain is treatment for minor common sight here, particularly
of a long trek. Do not venture cuts and blisters. More adequate south of Zagora.
even a little way off the beaten first-aid equipment will also It is also possible to go on
track without a reliable guide, include anti-venom treatment, combined treks, alternating
or unless you are on a well- insect repellent, antihistamine walking with mountain biking,
organized trek. Never set off for allergies, aspirins and or with canoeing or rafting.
alone, and if you are not part sunblock cream. Vehicle-assisted treks allow
of an organized party, inform For nights in a tent or in greater distances to be covered.
your next of kin or your the open air, a good-quality More luggage can also be carried,
country’s embassy of your body-hugging sleeping bag which means that camping can
intended date of return so that is recommended. Check be much more comfortable.
emergency aid can be sent if carefully its insulating
necessary. The cost of mountain properties, but bear
rescue in the more remote in mind that you
regions of Morocco is very high. will still need a
Check your personal insurance light mattress
to see whether it will cover you to insulate you
for this type of risk. from cold or
By far the best option is to wet ground.
let a specialist agency arrange Finally, it is
your hike or trek. This may be the small things
a Western tour operator or that can be the
one of the specialist agencies most useful.
in Morocco. Using their Head lamps, for
infrastructure and logistics example, give
will give you peace of mind. you light while Participants in the Marathon des Sables
SPORTS AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES  345
DIRECTORY
Specialist Tour
Operators
Adam Travel
5146 Leesburgh Pike,
Alexandria, VA 22302, USA.
Tel 1-703 379 2428.
Backroads
801 Cedar Street, Berkeley,
CA 94710-1800, USA.
Tel 1-800 462 2848.
∑ backroads.com
Four-wheel-drive vehicles, essential for negotiating rough tracks Discover

Timbers, Oxted Road,
Popular Routes Many camel treks take place Godstone, Surrey RH9 8AD, UK.
The main regions of Morocco southwest of Zagora, their Tel 01883 744 392.
that are most suitable for ultimate destination being ∑ kasbahdutoubkal.com
trekking and hiking are the Mhamid and Iriki, where the
Atlantic coast; the Middle Atlas, first dunes of the immense Exodus
High Atlas and Atlantic slopes Sahara can be seen. 9 Weir Road, London ONE,
of the Atlas; Jbel Sirwa and Jbel Further east, towards Erfoud UK. Tel 020 8772 3942.
Sarhro; the valleys of Wadi Draa, (see p284), the spectacular ∑ exodus.co.uk
Wadi Dadès and Wadi Tafilalet; Merzouga dunes (see p285) Overseas Adventure Travel
and the Saharan provinces offer many possibilities for
625 Mount Auburn Street,
of the South. hikes and camel rides through
Cambridge, MA 02138, USA.
In the High Atlas, Jbel unforgettable scenery.
Tel 1-800 955 1925.
Toubkal, which reaches a height
of 4,167 m (13,676 ft), is the Ramblers Holidays
highest point in North Africa Marathon des Sables
Lemsford Mill, Lemsford Village,
(see p253). The mountain offers This long-distance race takes Welwyn Garden City, Herts,
great scope for hikes. The place in the Ouarzazate region AL8 7TR UK.
summit can be reached in every year. About 700 competitors Tel 01707 331 133.
two days and climbing it does from all over the world take ∑ ramblersholidays.co.uk
not require a high level of part. The route covers 230 km
experience as a mountaineer. (143 miles) and the race lasts Sherpa Expeditions
The only disadvantage is the seven days. Each competitor 81 Craven Gardens, Wimbledon,
fact that this is where most carries his or her own food and London SW19 8LU, UK.
hikers come in the high season, equipment. The Marathon des Tel 020 8577 2717.
so you will not be alone. The Sables is considered to be the ∑ sherpaexpeditions.com
Club Alpin Français manages most demanding race of its
five refuges on Jbel Toubkal. kind in the world. Agencies in Morocco
In the central High Atlas,
the Aït Bouguemez valley Atlas Sahara Trek
(see pp258–61) offers a very 101 Assif C, Marrakech.
fine itinerary. The route is not Tel (0524) 31 39 01.
very demanding and passes Club Alpin Français
through a striking variety of
50 Sidi Abderrahmane,
different landscapes. This
Casablanca.
expedition to the deep heart
Tel (0522) 99 01 41.
of Berber country takes five to
six days, and the starting point Sport Travel
is Demnate, four hours’ drive 154 Avenue Mohammed V,
from Marrakech. Gueliz, Marrakech.
On the other side of the Tel (0524) 43 63 69.
Atlas, there are hikes that ∑ sporttravel-maroc.com
combine Jbel Sarhro, the
foothills at the edge of Wilderness Wheels
the Sahara, and the sublime 61 Hay Al-Qods, Ouarzazate.
Dadès gorge (see p277), one Tel (0524) 88 81 28 (Ouarzazate).
of the great attractions of Jbel Toubkal, to which large numbers of ∑ wildernesswheels.com
the Moroccan South. hikers are drawn
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Practical Information 348–357

Travel Information 358–365
348  SUR VIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Morocco, a country with a wide range The major museums and historic
of attractions, receives a large number of monuments have been reorganized
visitors. Much of its economic success is so as to be seen to their best advantage
due to tourism. The country has a good by the maximum number of visitors.
tourism infrastructure and tourist offices, Customs formalities are minimal and
both at home and abroad. Moroccan hotels while French is the most widely spoken
have undergone major restructuring and foreign language, at least the bigger
many regions have significantly increased hotels and restaurants and all tourist
their capacity to accommodate visitors. offices have English-speaking staff.
are open continuously from

9am to 5pm. Before leaving
home, you may also wish to
contact the Moroccan tourist
office in your own country.
Entry Charges and

Opening Hours
An entry charge (usually about
10 to 20 dirhams) is made for
museums and historic sites and
buildings. When entry is free,
The Casablanca coast it is customary to give the
caretaker a tip equal to the
When to Go advance, so as to be able to use average value of an entry ticket.
Morocco is a relatively large the most direct flights and the Opening hours can be
country with a varied climate, most convenient schedules, irregular. Tourist sites are
ranging from the arid, desert and particularly if you want to generally open from 9am to
conditions of the south to the reserve a room in smaller hotels 6pm, with some closing for up
Mediterranean climate of and guesthouses, to three hours
the north (see pp46–7). which have more midday. However,
The peak of the tourist season character and these times may
in the South, is in spring, from which get booked change during
March to mid-May, and, to a up quickly. Ramadan and at
lesser extent, in the early times of the year
autumn, in September and when the heat is
October. At those times, visitors Tourist Tourist brochure very intense. The
can enjoy many hours of Information opening of smaller
sunshine and almost no rain. All the major tourist centres sites sometimes depends on
Summer is the best time to in Morocco have a branch of the goodwill of the caretaker.
visit the Mediterranean and the Office National Marocain
Atlantic coasts. The South and du Tourisme (ONMT), which
the Centre, where the heat is often goes under the name Passports and Visas
then intense, are best avoided. “Délégation Générale du Citizens of the European Union,
Even when the winters are Tourisme”. Smaller towns have Swiss nationals and citizens of
mild they are still very cold, a Syndicat d’Initiative (tourist some other countries, including
and snowfall at high altitude, bureau). These bureaux provide the United States, Canada,
which can close passes, may information on the town’s Australia and New Zealand
interfere with your itinerary. principal features of interest, need a valid passport to visit
and the addresses of hotels Morocco. A passport, which
and restaurants. Official guides should be valid for at least six
Reservations are also usually available. The months after the date of your
Morocco attracts around 10 Délégations Générales and arrival, allows you to stay in
million visitors each year. Most Syndicats d’Initiative are open Morocco for three months. If
months are busy, and hotel from 8:30am to noon and this period is exceeded, the
reservations have become from 2:30 to 6:30pm. During authorities react strictly and
essential. It is best to arrange Ramadan and in summer, in the at the very least will escort
your visit several months in busiest towns and cities they you back to the frontier.
Aerial view of cameleers on the dunes of Erg Chebbi, Erfoud
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  349
Customs
DIRECTORY
During your flight to Morocco,
or when you arrive at the Embassies in Morocco
border, you will be handed Canada
a customs declaration form 13 Bis, Rue Jaafar As-Sadik, Rabat.
which you should fill in and Tel (0537) 68 74 00.
hand over at passport control.
United Kingdom
You are legally entitled to bring
28 Avenue SAR Sidi Mohamed,
into the country 200 cigarettes,
Rabat. Tel (0537) 63 33 33.
75 cl of alcohol and small
quantities of photographic United States
material and video equipment. 2 Avenue de Mohamed el-Fassi,
Drugs, firearms and Rabat. Tel (0537) 76 22 65.
pornographic material are
Consulates in Morocco
strictly prohibited. Permission
must be obtained to bring in United Kingdom
hunting weapons. 36 Rue de la Loire, Casablanca.
Importing a vehicle for a Tel (0522) 85 74 00.
Entrance to the Dar Si Saïd Museum limited period is possible but 47 Avenue Mohamed V, Marrakech.
in Marrakech the formalities are lengthy. The Tel (0537) 63 33 33.
vehicle should be registered in United States
If you intend to stay in Morocco your first name and surname. 8 Boulevard Moulay Youssef,
for more than three months, Casablanca. Tel (0522) 26 45 50.
you will need to obtain a Australian and Eire citizens may use
resident’s permit. Travellers from Language the UK embassy; New Zealanders
some countries will need a visa The official language is Arabic, may use the Canadian embassy.
to cover the whole duration of which is spoken by almost all
their stay. Information on entry Moroccans. French, a vestige of Useful Websites
formalities is available from the the Protectorate, is also widely Adventures of Morocco
Moroccan Consulate in your used, at least in large towns. It ∑ lexicorient.com/morocco
home country. is less current in country areas,
The border with Algeria is except among older people. Office National Marocain
du Tourisme
closed, but visas for Mauritania In the South, Berber is widely
∑ visitmorocco.com
can be obtained quickly spoken, especially in rural and
in Casablanca. mountainous areas. Travel Safety Advice
Because of the city’s proximity
to Spain, Spanish is widely Australia: Department of
Travel Safety Advice understood in Tangier, and is Foreign Affairs and Trade
Visitors to Morocco can get spoken in the Spanish enclaves. ∑ dfat.gov.au or
up-to-date travel safety German is most often heard in smartraveller.gov.au
information from the Foreign Agadir, which attracts large UK: Foreign and
and Commonwealth Office numbers of Germans. English is Commonwealth Office
in the UK, the Department spoken only by those closely ∑ gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice
of State in the US and the involved in the tourist industry, US: Department of State
Department of Foreign such as guides and certain staff ∑ travel.state.gov
Affairs and Trade in Australia. in the larger hotels.
Trekkers following a high mountain trail in an arid region of Morocco

350  sur vival guide
Etiquette As with other invitations, it is

difficult to refuse first, let alone
Moroccans are very friendly people. You will have many second, helpings of food.
opportunities to talk to them, and may even be invited People usually eat with
into their homes. However, Morocco is a Muslim country, their fingers, with the additional
aid of a piece of bread. If you
and certain conventions must be observed to avoid cannot master the technique,
inadvertently causing offence. it is especially important to you will be given eating
dress appropriately, not to take photographs of Moroccans implements. When eating,
without their permission, and to avoid certain sensitive you should use your right hand
subjects in conversation. if you are invited into the home since the left hand, used for
of a Moroccan family, it is as well to be aware of certain personal hygiene, is traditionally
considered to be impure.
points of etiquette. respecting a few simple rules will A Moroccan meal invariably
be appreciated by your naturally hospitable hosts. ends with mint tea. It is not
unusual to drink three or four
glasses of this very sweet
infusion. Again, the offer is
very hard to refuse.
Photography
You can take photographs
almost anywhere in Morocco.
In some museums, a supple-
mentary fee is charged if you
want to take photographs,
and in others photography
is forbidden.
Avoid taking pictures of
military or official buildings
since this may result in your
film being confiscated and you
being questioned at length
Mint tea served to guests, one aspect of Moroccan hospitality about what you were trying
to photograph.
Hospitality a small gift is a far better Before turning the lens on
Among Moroccans, hospitality and more acceptable way anyone, always ask the person’s
is more than a tradition; it is an of thanking your hosts. permission, since Moroccans
honour. After just a few minutes have an ingrained suspicion of
of conversation, traders in any type of image. Bear in mind
the souks and country people Sharing a Meal that anyone who agrees to your
in the remotest regions of the If you are invited to share a photographing them may ask
Atlas may well invite you into meal in the home of a Moroccan you for a little money, especially
their homes to drink a glass of family, be prepared to be plied in the major tourist spots.
tea or share a meal. It is difficult with copious helpings of food.
to decline these invitations,
and a refusal may cause offence. Muslim Customs
When you enter a house, Islam is a state religion, and the
take your shoes off if shoes have king of Morocco is the leader of
already been left near the door; the faithful. It is thus considered
this is a sign of respect towards very bad form to criticize religion.
your host. It is often the men It is also ill-mannered to disturb
who will invite you in, although someone while they are at
you are sure to see the women prayer, whether by speaking
of the house as well, in which to them or by taking a
case avoid being over-familiar. photograph of them.
Accepting an invitation from a It is above all during Ramadan
trader in a souk puts you under that certain rules must be
no obligation to buy anything obeyed. The fast of Ramadan
from him. Finally, even if you are is strictly observed in Morocco.
invited in by Moroccans of very Although non-Muslims may
modest means, never offer to Moroccans customarily eat with their eat, drink and smoke whenever
pay for your meal. Offering right hand they please, they should avoid
p r a c t i c a l i n f o r m at i o n  351
Dress in all shops and public

Attitudes towards places. Lastly, be aware that
dress have changed the Moroccans are very patriotic
significantly in Morocco, and that any discussion of
so that, in large towns their country can quickly
and cities, it is far from become heated.
unusual to see Moroccan
women in Western-style
dress. Even so, scanty Bargaining
clothing should not be You may bitterly disappoint
worn when exploring a trader if you do not show a
traditional quarters of willingness to indulge in the
towns or venturing into ritual of bargaining, another
the country. Very short Moroccan custom.
skirts, shorts and clothes Bargaining revolves around
that leave the shoulders the considerable difference
or chest bare are likely between the price quoted
to cause deep offence by the buyer and that offered by
to Moroccans. For the seller and the slow process
women, wearing a by which both sides arrive at
headscarf may help a mutually fair figure.
avoid unwanted When bargaining, you should
The Grand Mosque in Casablanca, open to non-Muslims attention. Women keep smiling since the whole
going topless, on the process is treated as a game.
doing so in public. Lastly, beach or in the swimming
couples in the street must pool, is severely frowned on.
behave with decorum; they Nudity is strictly forbidden in
should not kiss in public, Morocco, and nudists run the
for example. risk of being arrested.
Visiting Mosques The Monarchy

All mosques, except the Since the accession of
Grand Mosque in Casablanca Mohammed VI, attitudes
and the old Tin Mal Mosque, towards the monarchy are
are closed to non-Muslims. much more relaxed. You
When visiting these mosques, may even hear Moroccans
remove your shoes and openly criticizing the king.
behave in a respectful manner, Even so, the subject of the
appropriate to the holy nature monarchy is surrounded by
of the building. a great deal of taboo in
Never insist on being Morocco. As a general rule,
admitted to a mosque and do not express too trenchant
do not try to see inside it by an opinion on the subject
peeping through the door. and never show disrespect
Acting like this is likely to be towards the king’s image,
considered sacrilegious. which can be seen hanging
Moroccan women, customarily fully
dressed, on the beach
Smoking
Public places very rarely
have no-smoking areas.
However, smoking is now
prohibited in most buses
and modern cinemas.
Except in large towns
and cities, where attitudes
have changed, it may still be
considered shocking for women
to smoke in public. Smoking
kif (marijuana) is technically
illegal, and it is best to avoid
Tourist negotiating the price of a camel ride any contact with dealers.
Health and Security to go, otherwise you will be

taken automatically to the
Crime in Morocco is no worse than elsewhere and most nearest public hospital. In remote
visitors will experience no serious problems. The fact that regions, the only way of reaching
the police have a high-profile presence contributes to this a hospital is to hire a taxi.
degree of personal safety. As in any other country, a few
basic precautions should be taken so as to avoid the Pharmacies
attention of pickpockets. Visitors should also be aware that All pharmacies in Morocco
drug-taking, especially in the north of the country, is one are denoted by a sign in
of the prime threats to personal safety. The best policy is to the form of a crescent. Duty
have nothing whatsoever to do with drugs, however mild. pharmacies are open on
Sundays, and their address
While the standard of Morocco’s public hospitals is uneven, is posted in the window of
private clinics are very expensive. It is advisable to take out pharmacies that are closed.
health insurance in your own country before you leave. In large towns and cities,
duty pharmacies stay open
round the clock.
Pharmacies have helpful,
knowledgeable staff who are
able to give advice on minor
health problems. Certain
medicines that can only be
obtained on prescription
in Europe are available over
the counter in Morocco.
Food and Water

Many visitors to Morocco suffer
SAMU ambulance from stomach upsets, which are
often caused by the change of
Vaccinations and Minor equipment. Standards of diet. Avoid drinking tap water,
Health Risks hygiene are also unsatisfactory. especially in rural areas, and
No vaccinations are required If you have the option, choose keep to bottled mineral water
for visitors entering Morocco, a private clinic. Although these (see p319). Make sure that the
except for those coming from are expensive, standards of bottle is opened in front of
a country where yellow fever care are close to European you. Do not add ice to any
exists. However, vaccination ones. Your country’s drink and avoid diluted
against hepatitis A and B and embassy or consulate fruit juices.
typhoid is advised. Visiting certain will provide a list of On hikes and treks
regions of southern Morocco approved doctors take water-purifying
in summer carries a slight risk and hospitals. tablets to make spring
of exposure to malaria; anti- Pharmacy sign water safe to drink.
malaria pills are available locally. Alternatively, boil
However long you plan to Emergencies the water for 20 minutes.
stay in Morocco, and wherever In the case of accidents that Be wary of salads and raw
you intend to go, take a first-aid occur in the home or on the vegetables, and of peeled fruit
kit with you. It should include public highway, the fire brigade and vegetables. They should be
gauze, bandages, antiseptic is the first to attend the scene. washed carefully. Food prepared
and syringes, particularly if you Its ambulances are usually at street stalls is another potential
intend to spend any time in run by the Moroccan Red hazard. Although it is usually safe,
sparsely inhabited rural areas. Crescent and they are as long as it is freshly cooked,
To prevent sunstroke, drink marked “ambulance”.
plenty of water, wear a hat and In the case of medical
use a sunblock with a high emergencies that occur
UV-protection factor. in the street, SAMU
ambulances will take
you to the nearest
Medical Care hospital. Tell the
Although most public hospitals ambulance or taxi
in Morocco have excellent driver to which
specialist doctors, they are (private) hospital
underfunded and lacking in or clinic you wish A fire brigade vehicle
DIRECTORY
Hospitals and Clinics
Casablanca
Centre Hospitalier Ibn Rochd
Tel (0522) 48 20 20.
Marrakech
Polyclinique du Sud
Tel (0524) 44 79 99.
Rabat
Centre Hospitalier Ibn Sina
A pharmacy in Essaouira Tel (0537) 67 64 64.
people with delicate stomachs consult a doctor without Emergencies

are advised to resist it. delay. Stray animals – especially Fire Brigade & Ambulance
Fortunately, Moroccans dogs, which roam the streets Tel 15.
like their meat well cooked. of large towns during the
This destroys such parasites night – may carry rabies. If Police
as tapeworms, which are you are bitten, it is essential Tel 177, 19.
rampant in Morocco. to seek first aid immediately. SAMU Casablanca
Although the authorities Tel (0522) 25 25 25.
deny it, sexually transmitted
Insects diseases such as AIDS are SOS Médecins Casablanca
There are no particularly harmful spreading in Morocco. The Tel (0522) 20 20 20.
insects in Morocco, but scorpions, use of condoms (which are
SOS Médecins Marrakech
snakes, cockroaches and spiders available in all pharmacies)
Tel (0524) 40 14 01.
are common in the countryside. is strongly advised.
Check your clothes and shoes SOS Médecins Rabat
before dressing, particularly Tel (0537) 20 20 20.
when camping in rural areas. Personal Safety
If you are bitten by a snake or Violence is rare throughout
spider or stung by a scorpion, Morocco, and it is safe to go police station. If you intend
apply a suction pump to the anywhere with no great risk to make an insurance claim,
wound. These devices are sold in to personal safety. Serious ask to be given a copy of the
pharmacies all over the country. theft and burglary are not a police record of the incident;
Mosquitoes can be particularly widespread problem; this is this should be written in
bad in desert oases. An effective because of the large number French rather than Arabic.
mosquito repellent is essential, of caretakers who supplement
especially in summer. the work of the police and act
as an effective deterrent. Police
However, pickpockets Policemen are omnipresent
Serious Illness with finely honed techniques both in towns and cities and
Being careful about what you are likely to patrol the souks, on the roads in Morocco,
eat should stop you contracting and unwary tourists are the and they have considerable
cholera. In case of serious most likely targets. If you powers. Uniformed police
diarrhoea that persists after are the victim of theft, report officers, traffic police on the
taking ordinary medication, it immediately at the nearest roads and numerous plain-
clothes officers are present
everywhere.
The Moroccan police, who
once had a reputation for
corruption, have adopted a
very courteous attitude in
their dealings with tourists.
In the case of more serious
problems, you should contact
your country’s consulate (see
p349) as soon as possible. The
consulate will give you advice
and assistance in dealing
with the finer details of the
Entrance to the Hôpital Ibn Rochd in Casablanca Moroccan legal system.
Banking and Currency DIRECTORY

Moroccan currency cannot be obtained abroad. On your Moroccan Banks
arrival in the country, you will find many exchange offices Attijariwafa Bank
where you can easily obtain dirhams. With an international 2 Bd MoulayYoussef, Casablanca.
banker’s card you will also be able to draw money from Tel (0522) 29 88 88.
automatic cash dispensers, as well as over the counter BMCE
in banks that do not have ATMs. In country areas it can 140 Avenue Hassan II,
sometimes be difficult to change foreign currency, and Casablanca.
shopkeepers and traders are seldom able to give change Tel (0522) 20 04 92.
for high-denomination banknotes. It is also useful to BMCI
keep a collection of coins for small purchases. 26 Place des Nations Unies,
Casablanca.
Tel (0529) 04 40 44.
Automatic Cash Crédit du Maroc
Dispensers 48/58 Boulevard Mohammed V,
In large towns, automatic Casablanca.
cash dispensers (ATMs) are Tel (0522) 47 73 19.
becoming increasingly easy
to find. Most have instructions Foreign Banks
in several languages, and
Citibank
a notice or sticker lists
Lotissement Attaoufik,
those cards – Visa, Eurocard
Zenith Millenium, Immeuble 1,
and MasterCard – that
Sidi Maarouf, Casablanca.
are accepted.
Tel (0522) 48 96 00.
Some dispensers give cash
only against accounts that are Société Générale
held in Morocco and may 55 Boulevard Abdelmoumen,
swallow your international card Casablanca.
if you insert it by mistake. Cash Tel (0522) 43 88 88.
dispensers give out dirhams,
and there is often an upper
limit to individual withdrawals. grading of three stars and
A branch of the French bank The machines do not always upwards, and at airports.
Société Générale work properly, and it is The exchange rate is uniform
advisable to withdraw money and variations in the com
Banks during bank opening hours mission charged are unusual.
Morocco’s main banks so that you can retrieve your To avoid queueing, it is often
are Banque Marocaine card immediately in the event best to change money at a
du Commerce Extérieur of any problems arising. hotel. While exchange offices
(BMCE), Banque Marocaine Banks in Morocco charge in hotels and airports are
du Commerce et de l’Industrie commission for foreign cash open almost permanently,
(BMCI), Attijariwafa Bank withdrawals, usually between those attached to a bank
and Crédit du Maroc. Most 4.50 and 7 dirhams, regardless have the same opening
of them either have of how much is withdrawn. hours as the bank’s.
agreements with certain Obtain information on charges When changing money,
large international banks, from your bank and avoid you will usually be asked to
such as Citibank and the making frequent withdrawals show your passport. All foreign
French bank Société Générale, of small amounts. currencies are accepted, but
or are their subsidiaries. If the cash dispenser fails the euro and the dollar are
There are branches throughout to work, most banks will the preferred currencies. Worn
the country. Small issue cash over the and torn banknotes are not
towns usually counter to accepted as a matter of policy.
have only one holders of a In the major tourist centres,
bank, and there banker’s card. moneychangers may offer you
are no banks at their services in the street at a
all in rural areas. preferential rate, but it is best
Banks are open Bureaux De to decline the offer.
continuously from Change You can change back any
8am to about 4pm, Bureaux de change can dirhams that you have left at
Monday to Friday Automatic cash be found in almost all the end of your stay, although
including Ramadan. dispenser banks, in hotels with a the exchange rate will be
poor and, unlike dollars and rates are high. An alternative areas and in souks it is very
euros, pounds sterling are safe way of carrying money is difficult to obtain change for
not always available. a prepaid currency card that large-denomination notes.
can be loaded with money Always carry small change to
before you travel and used cover ordinary purchases.
Credit Cards at ATMs to withdraw cash. Both banknotes and coins
Most reasonably comfortable bear the likeness of King
hotels (usually those with Mohammed VI or of his father
a rating of three stars and Currency Hassan II. It is considered
above), as well as mainstream The Moroccan unit of sacrilegious to tear or damage
restaurants in large towns, and currency is the dirham (Dh them. Any coin or banknote
certain stores (usually those in in its abbreviated form), which where the sovereign’s portrait
the most upmarket bracket) is divided into 100 centimes. is defaced in any way may even
accept credit cards for payments. Banknotes are issued in the be refused.
following denominations: 20, In some areas, especially
50, 100 and 200 dirhams. Coins in the countryside, prices are
Prepaid Currency Cards are issued in denominations of given in riales (or reales) instead
Traveller’s cheques are not 5, 10, 20 and 50 centimes, of in centimes. One rial equals
widely accepted in banks, and and of 1, 2, 5 and 10 dirhams. 5 centimes, but it is a purely
although some hotels may still Notes and coins are inscribed conceptual unit: there are
cash them, the commission in French and Arabic. In rural no rial coins.
Coins
Coins come in denominations of 5,
10, 20 and 50 centimes and of 1, 2,
5 and 10 dirhams. While centime
coins are not widely used, 1-dirham
coins are handy, especially for
paying someone to guard your
car and for occasional tips.
10 dirhams 5 dirhams 2 dirhams
1 dirham 50 centimes 20 centimes 10 centimes 5 centimes
Banknotes
Banknotes are issued in denominations
of 20 dirhams, 50 dirhams, 100 dirhams
and 200 dirhams.
20-dirham note
50-dirham note
100-dirham note
200-dirham note
Communications
Morocco’s telephone network is run by national operators
Maroc Télécom, Meditel and Wana. The network has
developed significantly and provides an efficient service,
despite occasional problems. The use of mobile telephones
is widespread. Postal services are generally reliable, although
deliveries can be subject to long delays. Moroccan television
is fighting a losing battle against satellite channels and
foreign programmes. Newspapers, many of which are
in French, cover current affairs both in Morocco and on
the international stage.
A téléboutique, where telephone calls can
be made and faxes sent
card. You make the call, and
then pay the cost (based in even the most remote
on the difference between regions of the country.
the number of units on the Most European network
card before and after your operators have arrangements
call). Calls made by this with one or other of the three
method are more expensive Moroccan network operators,
but obviate the need to buy so that visitors can use their
a whole card. mobile phones in Morocco
(but bear in mind that calls
will be expensive).
Public Telephone Centres Mobile-phone users may
The number of small public also buy a prepaid SIM card
telephone centres, known from either of the Moroccan
A typical yellow postbox seen on the as téléboutiques, has mush- network operators. For a
street in Morocco roomed in Morocco. These modest charge (no more
centres are run either by than about 200 dirhams), you
Public Telephones private operators or by are provided with a Moroccan
Public phone boxes, which one of the three national number through which
are relatively rare, are usually operators. They house plastic national and international
located outside post offices, phone boxes or kiosks (which calls can be made at more
markets and bus stations. are usually a sandy colour) favourable rates.
Coin-operated telephones with card-operated, coin-
are still relatively common, operated or metered
and they take coins up to telephones. The cards that
Useful Dialling Codes
a denomination are sold here • Telephone numbers
of 5 dirhams. often only work consist of ten digits,
Because of the in telephones in and the country is
number of coins the centre from divided into two zones
needed, it is not which the card (052 and 053).
practical to make was bought or – Casablanca zone: 0522
international in telephones + 6 digits
calls from a owned by the – Rabat zone: 0537
Moroccan phonecard + 6 digits
coin-operated relevant operator.
– Marrakech zone: 0524
telephone. Such calls are best Faxes can also usually be sent
+ 6 digits
made from a card-operated and received in these public – Fès zone: 0535 + 6 digits.
telephone. Phonecards are telephone centres. • Always dial ten digits,
available at post offices and whether calling from
in tobacconists, which are one zone to another or
indicated by a blue and Mobile Phones
within a single zone.
white sign with three Almost everyone, it seems, • To call Morocco from
interlinked rings. has a mobile phone in abroad: dial 00 212 + nine
With some telephones, Morocco. The three competing digits (the ten-digit number
an illegal card rental system network operators – Méditel, minus the initial 0).
applies. The cardholder Maroc Télécom and Wana – • To dial internationally: dial
inserts the phonecard for are locked in a fierce price war. 00 + country code +
you, noting the number The network is excellent and telephone number.
of existing units on the mobile phones can be used
DIRECTORY
DHL Worldwide Express
52 Boulevard Abdelmoumen,
Casablanca.
Tel (0522) 97 20 20.
Globex (Federal Express)
313 Boulevard Mohammed V,
Casablanca.
Tel (0522) 45 80 00.
An Internet café in Morocco Internet Cafés
Marrakech: Cyber Behja, 27 Rue
Internet 4pm. Sub-post offices close at Bani Marine (in the medina);
Internet access is widely lunchtime; precise times vary Cybercafé Hivernage, 106 bis Rue
available throughout Morocco. according to location. Yougoslavie (in Gueliz).
Internet cafés are found in most Post offices also provide an Rabat: Student Cyber, 83
towns, cities and some villages. express mail delivery service. Avenue Hassan II.
Charges vary widely and are However, if you have something Tangier: Futurescope,
calculated according to the urgent to send, it is better to 8 Rue Youssoufia.
time spent online. A growing use a private company such
number of hotels, guesthouses as DHL Worldwide Express
and cafés offer free Wi-Fi access or Globex (Federal Express). you often find outdated daily
or charge a small fee for usage. It is also best to post letters newspapers on sale.
at a central post office rather
than use one of the yellow
street postboxes as collections Television and Radio
can be unreliable. Morocco has two television
Most post offices provide a channels: Radio Télévision
poste restante service, and this Marocaine (RTM), the public
Moroccan postage stamps system works well in Morocco. national channel that
Mail should bear the first name broadcasts in Arabic and
Postal Service and surname of the recipient, as in French, and 2M, a privately
Morocco’s postal service has well as the name of the town. run channel that also
a reputation for being very You will need some form of broadcasts in both languages,
slow. This is often borne out identification when collecting although programmes in
by reality, especially in the mail from a poste restante. The French predominate.
case of international mail. service is free of charge. Both the Moroccan television
There are post offices in all channels are, however, severely
sizeable towns. Here, you can buy rivalled by the spread of satellite
stamps, send letters and parcels Newspapers dishes, which provide
and cash, or send postal orders. Morocco has many access to a huge
Stamps are also available in daily newspapers in number of
tobacconists and at the reception Arabic and in French. international
desk of large hotels. Central post The major leading channels. Most
offices are open from 8.30am to newspapers in French households, as well
are Le Matin, Libération as upmarket hotels,
and TelQuel. Several have satellite dishes.
weekly magazines, Broadcasts in English
such as Maroc Hebdo, are obtainable only via
TelQuel’s Le Mag and Medina, the satellite (mostly CNN
Le Temps, or the quarterly magazine and BBC). Around
quarterly publications Tangier, it is also
such as Medina, Femmes du possible to tune in to broadcasts
Maroc and Citadine have given in English from Gibraltar.
a new voice to the Moroccan After many years of state
press, which is usually quite monopoly (by RTM and Médi 1),
conservative. Moroccan radio has been
French newspapers like Le liberalised and private stations
Monde and Le Figaro are printed such as Aswat and Radio
in Casablanca at the same time Atlantic have been set up. It is
as in France. English-language also possible to tune into some
newspapers are available in European stations, including
A newspaper vendor’s display showing Tangier, Agadir, Casablanca and BBC World Service (on MHz
several daily publications Marrakech. Outside large towns 15,070) and Voice of America.
TRAVEL INFORMATION
The easiest way to reach Morocco is by air. bus can be cheaper than travelling by air,
The country is served by many regular flights but for most visitors the journey overland by
from most major European cities and less these means is far too long to be practicable.
frequent flights from North America. Internal It is also possible to reach Morocco by car
flights link Morocco’s major cities. During the and ship. Using your own car also saves the
high tourist season, many charter flights are cost of hiring one on arrival in Morocco,
also available. Getting to Morocco by train or which can be quite expensive.
Casablanca Airport
Mohammed V Airport in
Casablanca is Morocco’s main
airport, both in terms of its size
and of the volume of traffic that
it handles. Most international
flights arrive in and depart from
Casablanca, and many flights
serving other cities in Morocco
touch down here. Internal flights
to smaller airports – at Agadir,
Marrakech, Ouarzazate, Fès,
Oujda and Essaouira – also
depart from Mohammed V
Airport. The airport is located
about 30 km (19 miles) south of
the city centre, and is served by
A Royal Air Maroc aircraft taking off from Ouarzazate airport efficient bus and train services.
Arriving by Air Australia or New Zealand.

Morocco has 14 international Connections can be made Marrakech Airport
airports. The busiest are those either via Singapore to Rebuilt and considerably
at Casablanca, Marrakech and Casablanca or via Dubai to enlarged, Marrakech-Ménara
Agadir. Royal Air Maroc (RAM), Casablanca, or by flying Airport is now able to handle
the national carrier, provides to London. a large volume of flights and
many links between Morocco and During the high tourist passengers. Located not more
Europe, including departures season, many charter flights than a few kilometres southwest
from provincial cities, and a supplement scheduled of the city centre, it is very easy
less frequent service between services. Most charter flights to reach by bus or taxi. Charter
North America and Casablanca. serve Marrakech, Agadir and flights make up most of its
RAM provides flights Ouarzazate. As part of the traffic, although it also handles
from London Heathrow “Open Sky„ agreement, low cost many scheduled flights.
to Casablanca, Marrakech, airlines can now fly to
Ouarzazate and Agadir, and Marrakech. As well as Ryanair,
from London Gatwick to these include EasyJet, Aigle Airport Links
Marrakech. easyJet serves Azur and Corsair. Mohammed V Airport, outside
Tangier, Marrakech and Agadir Many tour operators Casablanca, is served by bus
from London Gatwick. Ryanair offer economical package and train links (there is one train
flies to Marrakech, Rabat and deals including flights service every hour). By contrast,
Fès from London and, Agadir, and accommodation
Essaouira, Nador, Tangier and in hotels, villas or
Oujda from European cities. resorts. The deals
British Airways operates flights may also include
to Marrakech from Gatwick. guided tours, desert
From North America, trips, activity and
RAM flies most days from sporting holidays,
Montreal and New York JFK and trekking.
to Casablanca. From other Specialist tour
North American cities, the operators offer
best links are via London all this and can
or Paris. There are no direct provide tailor-made
flights to Morocco from arrangements. Ferry in the Straits of Gibraltar
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N  359
the only way of since services DIRECTORY

reaching certain from here are
other airports is more frequent, Airlines
Sign for Casablanca’s
by taxi from the but there are British Airways
Mohammed V Airport
town centre. Only also ferry links ∑ britishairways.com
the grands taxis are permitted to Tangier and to Melilla from
to wait for passengers at Málaga and Almerìa; to Ceuta easyJet
airports. The fact that they hold from Málaga; and to Tangier ∑ easyjet.com
a monopoly allows them to from Gibraltar. Royal Air Maroc (RAM)
charge relatively high fares, and In Spain, you need to collect ∑ royalairmaroc.com
they are unwilling to bargain. an exit form before boarding.
Ryanair
Airports are well provided with On leaving Morocco, you need
∑ ryanair.com
car-hire companies, and if you to fill in an embarkation form
plan to travel around during and have this and your passport Ferry Companies
your stay, you can hire a car stamped before boarding
upon arrival at the airport. the ferry. Southern Ferries
To reach an airport from a city 22 Sussex Street, London
centre, you can hire a grand taxi. SW1V 4RW.
Arriving by Train Tel (0844) 815 7785.
Travelling by train means a ∑ southernferries.com
Arriving by Car and Ferry long but scenic journey. From
Several ferry companies provide London, take the Eurostar to
Railways
various sea links between Spain Paris, from where there is a European Rail Ltd
and Morocco, including the daily TGV service to Algeciras, Tel (020) 7619 1083.
Spanish Transmediterrànea in Spain, changing at Irún, on ∑ europeanrail.com
and the Moroccan Comarit. the Spanish border. This is run
Rail Europe
Their UK agent Southern by the French SNCF, but tickets ∑ raileurope.com
Ferries has schedules and (including Eurostar) can be
prices. The crossing from bought at European Rail Ltd SNCF
Algeciras, in Spain, to Tangier and Rail Europe. Holders of Tel (0870) 848 5848.
or Ceuta (the Spanish enclave an InterRail card, which allows ∑ voyages-sncf.com
in Morocco) takes about two travel in 29 European countries
hours but boarding can be very (Spain, Portugal and Morocco
Tour Operators
slow, especially in summer, are treated as a single zone), Naturally Morocco
when Moroccans working can break their journey 29 Parc Hafan, Newcastle
abroad return home. anywhere they wish. Emlyn, Carmarthenshire
Ferry tickets can be The fare from Paris to SA38 9AR. Tel (01239) 710 814.
purchased in advance or at the Algeciras is about €155 (£97). ∑ naturallymorocco.co.uk
time of travel. In either case, Avoid train services that go via
The Ultimate Travel
the time spent queuing is the Barcelona, as links between Company
same. The adult fare is about Catalonia and Algeciras are 25–27 Vanston Place,
€40. Taking a car across costs poor. It is better to use a service London SW6 1AZ.
between about €100 and that goes via Madrid. From Tel (020) 3582 2653.
€210 depending on its size. Algeciras, there are ferry ∑ theultimatetravelcompany.
Most travellers take the ferry services to Tangier and to Ceuta co.uk
from Algeciras to Tangier, (see Arriving by Car and Ferry, left).
The modern exterior of Al-Massira airport, in Agadir

Travelling by Car in Morocco the rules of the road are not

meticulously observed at night.
The best way of travelling around Morocco, and of exploring Be particularly careful about
the country’s historic sites and natural environment in areas pedestrians crossing roads and
not served by local public transport, is by car. The imperfect even motorways.
Indicator lights are rarely
road network is constantly under improvement, and the used, and you will find that
number of metalled roads means that a four-wheel-drive you must try to anticipate
vehicle is not essential, even in the South. A greater hazard the changes of direction of
is Moroccan driving standards. There are a number of car-hire the vehicles in your vicinity.
companies in Morocco with varying standards of service. Many major roads often have
Satellite navigation is also available in Morocco for driving two carriageways, which can
make overtaking hazardous.
around major towns. On mountain roads, taxis
and buses are often driven
somewhat dangerously.
Sound your horn when
driving into a blind bend.
Roads and Tracks

Morocco’s relatively dense road
network is undergoing constant
improvements. So as to reap
the benefit of the latest new
stretches of road, buy the most
up-to-date road map.
The well-developed road
network in northern Morocco is
gradually being supplemented
by motorways, which are very
Traffic in town, where other cars are not the only obstacles pleasant to use as they do not
carry many trucks. The road
Rules of the Road Road Signs network in southern Morocco
The Moroccan highway code The international system is less dense and the few minor
is based on the one that is applies to road signs in roads in the region are often in
used in France, so you must Morocco, most of which have a bad state of repair.
usually give way to the wording in Arabic and French. In the South and in the
right. At roundabouts, In large towns, direction signs Atlas mountains, metalled
you should give way are sparse, so that it roads serve most places of
to cars already on is inadvisable to set interest to tourists, and they are
the roundabout. out without a map or complemented by a relatively
In general, reliable instructions. good network of tracks. A four-
Moroccan drivers Signage on wheel-drive vehicle is essential
obey traffic lights, motorways and for journeys in these regions.
perhaps because Road sign in French major roads is usually
most junctions are and Arabic good. Lighting,
patrolled by a however, is Driving in Towns
gendarme or policeman. normally non-existent, The volume of traffic in
The speed limits are 40 except on the approaches large towns and cities can
or 60 kmh (25 or 37 mph) to large towns. be considerable, and the
in built-up areas, 100 kmh increasing number
(60 mph) on the open road of vehicles on the
and 120 kmh (74 mph) on Traffic Hazards roads leads to
the motorway. In the approach Negotiating local multiple jams and
to towns, drivers will some- traffic is difficult mainly bottlenecks, which
times see signs giving different because of the great are aggravated by
speed limits; when in doubt, variety of vehicles that the flotilla of bicycles
keep to 40 kmh (25 mph), use the roads. As a and mopeds that also
since speed traps are common general rule, avoid impede traffic flow.
on these stretches of road. driving at night, when Although it is
Fines for speeding and other carts and bicycles possible to drive into
traffic offences range from with no lights are a Parking attendant most medinas (the
300 to 600 dirhams. real hazard. In towns, wearing a badge old areas of towns),
their narrow streets and many for a short stay (even lasting no DIRECTORY
dead ends can make circulation more than a few minutes) and
difficult. It is usually far more 5 dirhams for several hours’ Car-Hire Companies
pleasurable to explore them parking. If you want to park Avis
on foot. for a longer period (overnight, ∑ avis.com
for example), it is advisable to
come to an agreement with Agadir
Driving in the Country the attendant before leaving Al Massira Airport.
Tel (0528) 83 92 44.
When driving on minor your vehicle. The advantage
roads in rural areas, you should of this system is that car theft Casablanca
look out for animals, such as and break-ins are virtually non- 19 Avenue de l’Armée Royale.
donkeys and flocks of sheep existent. Parking meters are Tel (0522) 31 24 24.
or goats. Wandering freely common in major cities. Marrakech
without human supervision, Marrakech-Menara Airport.
they may step into the road Tel (0524) 43 31 69.
without warning. Car Hire
The many trucks and buses Large towns and airports are Hertz
∑ hertz.com
that use the roads may slow well provided with car-hire
your progress considerably, companies, not all of which Agadir
and overtaking, offer the same service. Bungalow Marhaba, Boulevard
particularly in the When hiring a car for Mohammed V.
mountains, is an extended period, it Tel (0528) 84 09 39.
difficult. Passing is best to Casablanca
on narrow roads is use an international 25 Rue Al-Oraibi Jilali.
often hazardous. car-hire company Tel (0522) 48 47 10.
Slow down and hug (such as Hertz, Avis
Marrakech
the hard shoulder or Europcar) or a 154 Avenue Mohammed V.
so as to reduce the A “Stop” sign in Arabic Moroccan firm (such Tel (0524) 43 99 84.
risk of collision. as Thrifty or First-Car)
with an extensive network and
reliable insurance and
Fuel breakdown assistance. On a Class A car (such as a Renault
Service stations are found at payment of a supplement, the Logan) and 1,800 dirhams for a
fairly frequent intervals along hire vehicle may be dropped four-wheel-drive vehicle. There
roads in Morocco, even in the off at a different place from is usually a wide range of cars
most remote areas. Although where it was picked up. Check to choose from.
four-star petrol (gas) and diesel the terms of the agreement,
are widely available, unleaded especially clauses relating to
petrol is rarely sold outside insurance and cover in case In Case of Accident
large towns. Irregular deliveries of accident or theft. Also check If you are involved in a road
to service stations in rural areas the state of the vehicle and ask accident, you should wait for
may mean that they run out for any damage to be noted the police to arrive. They will
of fuel. Wherever you are, you before you drive off. usually arrive quickly and will
should fill up before starting Car hire in Morocco is quite arbitrate in case of any disagree-
a long journey. expensive. Charges (excluding ment. Official statement forms
Self-service is uncommon; collision damage waiver) are similar to those used in Europe
you should wait for the atten- about 900 dirhams per day for are available at tobacconists.
dant to arrive and then pay
him in cash, including a tip.
Parking
In large towns and cities, an
attendant wearing a small
brass badge is assigned to
every pavement. He will help
you to park, will watch your
car in your absence and will
help you manoeuvre out of
your parking place.
Payment for this service varies
according to how long the car
is parked, and is at the driver’s
discretion; allow 1 to 2 dirhams Driving in the desert, where a four-wheel-drive is essential
Getting Around in Towns weighed down with luggage

or want to explore the
The most important historic sites in Morocco’s towns and countryside beyond the town,
cities are often located in the medinas, where, in a maze of although they won’t leave until
narrow streets and frequent dead-ends, the only practical they are full.
Grands taxis are not fitted
way of getting around is on foot. But because many hotels
with meters, so the fare for
are located in the modern quarters of towns, visitors will your journey must be agreed
frequently need to takes buses or taxis. Although buses are according to mileage and the
an inexpensive means of getting around in town, visitors length of the hire. The charge
may be baffled by the way that they work and the routes that for hiring a grand taxi for
they follow. Petits taxis offer a greater degree of flexibility at a whole day will be about
500 dirhams.
relatively little cost. In some towns the services of a guide are
Grands taxis often wait outside
virtually indispensable to save spending too much time large hotels, and they should not
working out a route, but others are much more be mistaken for petits taxis,
straightforward to navigate. which are cheaper and which
are used for shorter runs.
By Bus serves the densely populated
All large towns in Morocco are quarter known as L’Ocean in By Petit Taxi
served by a wide network of Rabat. It extends to the bus These vehicles are identifiable by
bus lines linking their various station in Salé passing through their colour, which is different in
districts. It can, however, be the Yacoub el Mansour locality every town, and by the words
difficult to find the bus that you and Bettana. “petit taxi” on the roof. They are
need since the destination is Tickets for the Rabat-Salé, prohibited by law from going
often given only in Arabic. For tramway are available from the beyond built-up areas and can
visitors, the most useful routes driver for 6 dirhams. The service only be hired for short trips.
are those running between the operates between 6am to 11pm The use of meters is becoming
new town (ville nouvelle) and daily. The tram stations have more common. You should
the medina. Bus fares are cheap been designed to be accessible always ask for the meter to be
(3 to 4 dirhams) and tickets are to disabled travellers, as well as switched on, and be prepared
purchased on board from the for pushchairs. In Casablanca, to round up the usually modest
driver. Be sure to carry some the first tramline opened in amount that is shown at the
small change. December 2012. It links the town end of your journey. The usual
centre with outlying residential fare for a short journey by petit
areas. A second tramline is taxi during the day is about
By Tram planned for the near future. 10–20 dirhams. At night a 50 per
The Rabat-Salé tramway began cent surcharge is added to the
operating in 2011. The service amount shown on the meter.
links the towns of Rabat and By Grand Taxi Taxi fares are paid in cash, and it
Salé, which are separated by the The most frequent journeys is important to have a good
Wadi Bou Regreg. The network made by grands taxis, many of supply of small change as drivers
has two lines with a total of which are Mercedes and which are rarely able to give change for
32 stations and is 19.5 km seat up to six passengers, are a 100- or 200-dirham banknote.
(12 m) long. Line 1 connects those between towns and cities Petits taxis usually take up to
Hay Karima in Salé to the district (see p365). They are also useful three people (two in the back
of Agdal in Rabat while Line 2 if you are a large party, are and one in front). They make
frequent stops along the way
to pick up other passengers
going in the same direction.
This should reduce the cost
of the journey.
It is better to ask to be taken
to a specific restaurant, hotel
or historic building, rather
than name the relevant street.
Although most drivers have a
good knowledge of the town
in which they work, they
navigate by landmarks rather
than street names.
Taxi ranks are marked by
Local bus, a cheap but not always easy way of getting around in town white rectangular signs saying
large numbers of people around town. In Marrakech,

(both Moroccans and the largest carriage “rank” is at the
visitors) is the best foot of the Koutoubia Mosque.
guarantee of safety. In
small crowded streets
where pickpockets may Guides
operate, take special care The bogus guides who were
of personal possessions. once so ubiquitous in tourist
spots have become more
discreet since measures were
By Bicycle or Moped taken to clamp down on
In the major tourist anyone acting as a guide
centres, particularly without an official card.
Marrakech and Agadir, Even if you have a street map,
bicycles and mopeds can you will find some towns very
be hired. The level terrain confusing to explore. The
in these two cities makes services of a guide may be
cycling here quite easy. necessary on your first day
Mopeds and bicycles are in a certain town or city,
A cyclist in Rahba Kedima, Marrakech an ideal means of getting particularly in the largest
around the old quarters, medinas, like that of Fès.
“taxi”. You can also hail a taxi in where the streets are narrow. Official guides are identifiable
the street by waving your hand. However, a degree of caution is by the cards that they carry,
Because of the large number called for, since car drivers show almost always pinned to their
of taxis circulating in towns, little consideration clothing. These
it is unusual to wait for very to other road-users. cards are issued
long. There are no radio taxi Bicycle attend- by the Ministry
firms, but some drivers have ants, who can be of Tourism and
mobile phones and will give found where there bear an identity
you their card. is a concentration photograph of
If your journey entails of parked cycles the holder.
driving along a track, the fare and mopeds, Official guides
will automatically increase. are worth using. can be requested
In this case, the full amount Charges range at tourist
should be agreed with the from 1 to 2 dirhams Bus stop in information offices,
driver beforehand. for a few hours to a town and also by hotels
10 dirhams for a (in which case
night. Lock your bicycle or make sure they carry the card).
On Foot moped even if an attendant They also often wait near hotels
Moroccan towns, and their is guarding it. and major historic buildings.
medinas in particular, are Specify which buildings and
typically very poorly signposted other features you wish to see,
for pedestrians. A street map By Carriage and whether or not you wish to
is therefore useful. You can Horse-drawn carriages are found be taken into shops. The fees
also ask your way, in return for mainly in Marrakech. Hiring one are fixed by the government,
a few words of thanks in French costs more than a petit taxi, but but always agree the fee with
or, if the person takes you there, they can be a fun way of getting the guide beforehand.
a few dirhams. Town centres
are easy to explore on foot
and best appreciated at a
relaxed pace, especially if
you have time to enjoy the
maze of narrow streets. Cars,
mopeds and bicycles take little
heed of pedestrians, and you
should take special care when
crossing the street.
Streets in towns throughout
Morocco are very safe. There
are, of course, insalubrious
quarters, although these are
rarely frequented by tourists.
In tourist spots, an obvious
police presence together with A horse-drawn carriage, a popular form of transport in Marrakech
Travelling Around in Morocco

The Moroccan rail network (ONCF) links the towns and cities
of northern Morocco, the southernmost town with a rail link
being Marrakech. Trains are clean and reliable, and journey
times depend on the number of stops along the route. The
rail network is complemented by long-distance bus services,
which are run either by public or by private companies,
and which are cheaper than the train. Whatever your chosen
means of transport, you should check the various timetables
beforehand and note any stops that may seriously lengthen
your journey. Grands taxis (see p362) are a swift means of
travelling from one town to another, but their fares are not Grand entrance of the train
fixed and bargaining is a matter of course. The best way to station in Marrakech
travel between principal cities is often on a domestic flight.
cover the longer distances
between Casablanca, Fès,
Oujda, Tangier and Marrakech,
and are identified by names
such as Koutoubia and Hassan.
They are air-conditioned and
soundproofed and have proper
toilets. On the most heavily
used route (from Casablanca
to Marrakech, Fès and Tangier),
there is a service at least every
two hours, and it is possible
to make the round trip from
Casablanca to Tangier and
back again in a single day.
For long journeys, the
compartments on night
Train drawing into the station at Mohammedia, near Casablanca trains can be converted into
couchettes. Second class,
The Rail Network of which Morocco is the world’s which is air-conditioned, is
Run by the Office National largest producer. very comfortable. The toilets
des Chemins de Fer (ONCF), Casablanca and Rabat have are located at the end of the
the Moroccan rail network, several railway stations, located coach and are reasonably clean.
while very good, is not very in different districts but served On-board catering services are
extensive. It covers just 1,700 by the same line. rather basic. Vendors walk up
km (1,056 miles) and serves and down the coaches offering
mainly the northern part of cakes, confectionery, drinks
the country, linking Tangier, Trains and sometimes sandwiches.
Oujda, Rabat, Casablanca, Fès, With a few exceptions,
Marrakech and El-Jadida. Plans Moroccan trains are relatively
to extend the railways south- modern. Those known as Trains Train Tickets and Fares
wards, particularly to Agadir, Navettes Rapides, or TNR The cheapest way to buy
are under way. The Atlas, how- (express shuttles), and referred a train ticket is at a railway
ever, is an insuperable barrier. to as “Aouita” after a famous station. Passengers must have
Services are frequent, since Moroccan Olympic runner, a ticket valid for the relevant
trains are the preferred means link Casablanca and Rabat in class of seat and type of train.
of transport for ordinary people. 50 minutes, Mohammed V If you reserve a couchette or a
A separate rail network is used Airport and Casablanca in 40 bed in a sleeper, you must be
for transporting phosphates, minutes, and Rabat and Kenitra able to show the ticket for the
in 30 minutes. The service is relevant supplement.
frequent at peak times. You can purchase a ticket
Trains known without booking a seat six days
as Trains in advance, a combined train
Rapides and bus ticket one month in
Climatisés (air- advance, and a ticket with a
conditioned bed booked on a sleeper two
A grand taxi, used for longer journeys express trains) months in advance. You can
break your journey so long as comfort of their buses is DIRECTORY

you collect a form (bulletin often minimal and journey
d’arrêt) at the station where times painfully long. Railway Company
you alighted. This form makes
ONCF
your ticket valid for an extra
five days. Grands Taxis 8 bis Rue Abderrahmane
If you have to board a train This is the most flexible way El-Ghafiki, Agdal, Rabat.
without having bought a ticket of travelling from one town Tel (0890) 20 30 40.
at the station ticket office, ask to another. Grands taxis are ∑ oncf.ma
for a boarding ticket (ticket mostly found at bus stations,
d’accès), which is issued free of parked according to their Bus Companies
charge at the entrance to the destination.
platform, or tell the inspector Grands taxis are not fitted CTM
before you board the train. A with meters, and fares must Tel (0522) 54 10 10
ticket bought on the train is be agreed by bargaining. The (for travel in Morocco).
always more expensive than main factors involved are ∑ ctm.ma
one bought from a station the length of the journey and
Supratours
ticket office before boarding. how many people are to be
The train is a relatively carried. If the taxi is full (with 65 Avenue Fal Ould Oumeir,
inexpensive means of getting seven or perhaps eight people), Bureau No.1.
around. A second-class ticket each person’s fare will be only Tel (0537) 68 62 97
on an express train from slightly higher than for the (for travel in Morocco).
Casablanca to Marrakech or same journey made by bus. ∑ supratourstravel.com
Fès costs about 125 dirhams, If you do not wish to share
and from Marrakech to Tangier the taxi, expect to pay the Airlines
about 250 dirhams. There are equivalent that the driver
various concessions for families, would receive for a fully loaded Air Arabia
young people and groups, car. This allows you the option Mohammed V Airport,
and season tickets are also of a tailor-made route. Any Casablanca.
available, although these are stops along the way, to visit Tel 080 2000 803.
economical only for regular places of interest, should be ∑ airarabia.com
travel on a particular route. agreed beforehand, since they
will lengthen the journey time Royal Air Maroc
and add to the fare. Tel (0890) 00 08 00
Coaches (for travel in Morocco).
Many coach (bus) companies ∑ royalairmaroc.com
operate in Morocco. The best Domestic Flights
known is CTM, the national The most economical way
company that runs services of making longer journeys of which has a rail link. The one-
between towns in Morocco between Morocco’s largest way fare to either place is about
and also abroad. A private cities is often on one of the 700 dirhams, although prices
company, Supratours, also internal flights provided by may vary according to the time
covers long-distance routes. Royal Air Maroc, especially to of year. Air Arabia also operates
Coaches are comfortable and Agadir or Ouarzazate, neither internal flights.
air-conditioned, and are very
convenient, especially in the
South. They depart from bus
stations, which are usually
well signposted. A combined
train and Supratours coach
will take you from Casablanca
to Dakhla in the far south.
It is advisable to buy your
ticket, and thus reserve a seat,
at least 24 hours in advance
since coaches are often fully
booked at time of departure.
Luggage is checked in ahead
of departure and is carried
in the hold. Make sure that
yours has been loaded.
Many small local coach
companies also operate in
Morocco, although the An air-conditioned CTM coach parked near a fuel station
366  GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to Achoura 45 Aït Bou Oulli valley 260, 263
main entries. Acropolis (Lixus) 87, 95 Aït Bouguemez valley 251,
Adeyel 171 258–61
20th February Movement 63 Aeolus 97 map 258–9
Afella Ighir Oasis 297 Aït Boujane Ksar 278
A Africa, map 19 Aït Haddidou tribe 262, 263
Abachkou 260 Africanus, Leo 186 Aït Haddou Ameur 262
Abbar Ksar (Rissani) 285 Chellah Necropolis 85 Aït Mohammed 259
Abbassid caliphate 50 Fès 171 Aït Mouted Kasbah 277
Abd el-Krim Khattabi 60, Karaouiyine Library (Fès) 179 Aït Ziri 261
151 Agadir 66, 113, 286, 288, Aït-Attab, festivals 42
Abd el-Malik, Sultan 96 290–91 Aït-Herbil 293
Abd el-Moumen, Sultan 54 climate 46 Akka 293
Grand Mosque (Taza) 214 entertainment 339, 341 Akrar d’El-Kelaa 158
Koutoubia Mosque festivals 43 Al Haouz, festivals 45
(Marrakech) 227, 240, 241 fish market 123 Al Idrissi 55
Rabat 69, 73 history 56, 291 Al Qods Committee 63
Tin Mal 256 hotels 313 Al-Andalus 51, 52–3, 54, 56
Abderrahman III, Caliph 51 itineraries 16 Al-Hoceima 15, 147, 157,
Abeino 298 map 291 159
Abou Fares Abdelaziz, Sultan restaurants 330–31 festivals 43
78 Agadir-Lehne 293 hotels 309
Abou Faris, Sultan 230 Agdz 272 restaurants 324
Abou el-Hassan (Black Sultan) Agouti 258, 260 Al-Hoceima Bay 159
55, 242 Aguedal Gardens (Marrakech) Alaouite dynasty 49, 53, 56,
Ben Youssef Medersa 16, 246 57, 58–63
(Marrakech) 232 Aguelmane Azigza 220 architecture 29
Chellah Necropolis 84, 85 Aguelmane Sidi Ali 220 Fès 167, 170
Ech Cherabliyine Mosque Ahel Sefrou tribe 215 Marrakech 227
(Fès) 171 Ahmed ben Ali 136 Ouarzazate and the
El-Mesabahiya Medersa (Fès) Ahmed ibn Mahrez 292 Southern Oases 265
179 Ahmed el-Mansour, Sultan 56, Rabat 74, 78
Grand Mosque (Salé) 90 96, 233 royal cities 197
Abou Inan, Sultan 55, 84, 85, Fès 170 Taroudannt 292
185 Marrakech 29, 227, 230, 239, Alarcos, Battle of (1165) 54, 69
Bou Inania Medersa (Fès) 242–3 Alcohol 319
176 Mhamid 273 in restaurants 315
Dar el-Magana (Fès) 171 Ahmed el-Tijani, tomb of 171 Alfonso III, King of Castile 72
Karaouiyine Library (Fès) Aïcha Gazelles’ Trophy 42 Alfonso VI, King of Castile 51
179 Aïd el-Kebir 45 Alfonso VIII, King of Castile 54,
necropolis (Fès el-Jedid) Aïd es-Seghir 45 69
184 AIDS 353 Algeciras, Treaty of (1906) 60,
Abou Saïd Othman, Sultan Aïn Asserdoun springs 224 133
Chellah Necropolis 84 Aïn Leuh 216 Algeria Festival (Chefchaouen)
Dar el-Makhzen (Fès Air travel 44
el-Jedid) 184 domestic 365 Ali, Caliph 56, 204
El-Attarine Medersa (Fès) international 358–9 Ali ben Abdellah 136
175 Aïssaoua brotherhood 192, Ali ben Youssef, Sultan 51, 227,
Abou Thabit, Caliph 84 193, 202 233
Abou Yacoub, Caliph 84 Les Aïssaouas (Clairin) 202–3 Allegiance Day 45
Abou Yacoub Youssef, Caliph Aït Abou 276 Almohad dynasty 37, 53, 54–5
54, 55, 233 Aït Arbi Kasbah 277 architecture 28, 72
Chellah Necropolis 84, 85 Aït Atta tribe 261, 262, 269, Azemmour 117
Fès 171 279 Fès 167, 170
Abou Yahia, Caliph 54, 55 Aït Bekkou oasis 298 Kasbah Boulaouane 116
Abou Youssef, Caliph 85 Aït Benhaddou 257, 269, 274– Koubba Ba’Adiyn 233
Abraham ben Diouanne, 5, 279 Ksar el-Kebir 96
Rabbi, tomb of 156 hotels 312 Ksar es-Seghir 151
Abubacer (Ibn Tufayl) 233 itineraries 10, 17 Marrakech 227, 231, 242,
Accidents, road 361 restaurants 329 246
GENERAL INDEX  367
Almohad dynasty (cont.) Arabs Atlas Mountains

Mehdya 91 calligraphy 174 High Atlas 248–63
Meknès 192 language 22, 349, 391 hiking and trekking 344–5
Moulay Abdallah 119 Ouarzazate and the Middle Atlas 12, 210–25
Rabat 69, 74, 78–9 Southern Oases 265 Au Petit Poucet (Casablanca)
royal cities 197 Archaeology 21
Taza 214 Musée Archéologique Audience Given by Moulay
Tin Mal 256 (Rabat) 12, 82–3 Ismaïl (Denis) 58–9
Almond trees Musée Archéologique Augustus, Emperor 49, 97
Almond Blossom Festival (Tetouan) 152 Automatic cash dispensers
(Tafraoute) 45 see also Prehistoric sites (ATMs) 354
The Rif 159 Architecture Autumn in Morocco 44–5
Zegzel Gorge tour 165 Andalusian 52–3 Avenue des Forces Armées
Almoravid dynasty 50–51, 53, Architectural heritage of Royales (Casablanca) 102
54 Moulay Ismaïl 59 Avenue Pasteur (Tangier) 15,
architecture 28 Architecture of the 1920s 143
Fès 167 and 1930s 105 Averroës (Ibn Rushd) 52, 54,
Ksar el-Kebir 96 kasbahs 270–71 233
Marrakech 227, 231, 233, ksour in the oases 283 Karaouiyine Library (Fès) 179
246 medinas 30–31 Karaouiyine Mosque (Fès)
Meknès 192 minarets 52–3 180
Ouarzazate and the Morocco’s architectural Ayuntamiento (Ceuta) 151
Southern Oases 265 heritage 279 Azemmour 114, 117
Taroudannt 292 ramparts of Marrakech 231 Azrou 118–19, 211, 216
Amarlouch, Rachid 128 urban architecture of
Amazraou 272–3 Morocco 28–9 B
Ambulances 352, 353 Aremd 253 Ba Ahmed, Grand Vizier 57,
Ameln tribe 297 Argan trees 131, 222 238
Ameln valley 297 Aristocratic Quarter (Volubilis) Bab Agnaou (Marrakech) 231,
Amerhidil Kasbah (Skoura) 209 243
276 Aristotle 233 Bab el-Assa (Tangier) 135, 136
American Legation (Tangier) Art Bab el-Berdaïne (Meknès) 59,
138 Arabic calligraphy 174 192
Amizmiz 256 art galleries 340, 341 Bab Berrima (Meknès) 192
Ampelusium, Cape 150 Artists and Writers in Tangier Bab Boujat (Fès el-Jedid) 184
Ancien Palais de Mendoub 139 Bab Boujeloud (Fès) 170
(Tangier) 143 Painters of Essaouira 129 Bab el-Chorfa (Fès) 30
Andalusia-Atlantic Festival Roman 97 Bab Dekaken (Fès el-Jedid)
(Essaouira) 45 see also Museums and 184
Andalusian Garden (Rabat) galleries Bab Doukkala Mosque
72 Art Deco 105 (Marrakech) 233
Andalusian Mosque (Fès) Art Nouveau 105 Bab el-Ftouh (Fès) 179
179 Asayag residential block Bab el-Had (Rabat) 78
Andalusian Quarter (Fès) 14, (Casablanca) 103 Bab el-Jedid (Casablanca)
179 Asfalou Ksar 278 104
Andalusian Wall (Rabat) 78 Asfiha (Al-Hoceima) 157 Bab el-Jedid (Meknès) 192,
Anemiter 257 Asilah 86, 89, 92–3, 95 197
Anfa (Casablanca) 13, 111 festivals 43 Bab el-Khemis (Marrakech)
Anglican Church of St Andrew hotels 306 231
(Tangier) 15, 142 restaurants 321 Bab el-Khemis (Meknès) 192
Anne Marie de Bourbon 59 Asjen 156 Bab el-Makhzen (Meknès) 197
Anoual, Battle of (1921) 60, Asni 17, 256 Bab Mansour el-Aleuj
147 hotels 312 (Meknès) 193
Anti-Atlas 287, 292–3, 297 restaurants 328 Bab Marrakech (Casablanca)
Aouli Gorge 282 Assif el-Had 131 104
Aouraba 50 Atlantic Coast see Northern Bab el-Marsa (Casablanca) 104
Apple Festival (Imouzzer de Atlantic Coast; Southern Bab el-Mrisa (Salé) 90
Kandar) 43 Atlantic Coast Bab Oudaïa (Rabat) 12, 72, 74
Apple Festival (Midelt) 44 Atlas Film Studios Bab er-Rouah (Rabat) 84
Arab invasions 50 (Ouarzazate) 268 Bab el-Seba (Fès el-Jedid) 187
Bab el-Semarine (Fès el-Jedid) Berbers (cont.) Boumalne du Dadès 17, 277
185 carpets 336 restaurants 329
Bab el-Siba (Meknès) 192 Chiadma Region 122 Bowles, Jane 143
Bab Taghzout (Marrakech) dress and jewellery 37, Bowles, Paul 133, 139
230 40–41 American Legation (Tangier)
Bacchus 97 High Atlas 249 138
Badajoz, Battle of (1086) 51 history 49, 50, 54, 55, 61 Café de Paris (Tangier) 143
Baha Kasbah (Nekob) 269 language and culture 22–3, Café Hafa (Tangier) 144
Balcon d’Ito 216 349 Hôtel el-Minzah (Tangier)
Banasa 82, 96, 97 Ouarzazate and the 143
Banker’s cards 354 Southern Oases 265 Boyer, M. 102, 103
Banknotes 355 Tamanar 130 Brass 33
Banks 354–5 Bergé, Pierre 247 Bravo, Claudio 138, 139
Bargaining 333, 351 Bergman, Ingrid 102 Brayer, Yves 138
Basilica (Volubilis) 207, 209 Bert Flint Museum Bride, H. 103
Basri, Driss 23, 24, 63, 116 (Marrakech) 239 Bureaux de change 354–5
Bassin de l’Aguedal (Meknès) Bertolucci, Bernardo 145, 268 Burroughs, William 139
11, 14, 197 Bertuchi, Mariano 151 Bay of Tangier 145
Bastion Sidi Makhlouf (Rabat) Bessonneau residential block Café Hafa (Tangier) 144
78 (Casablanca) 103 Buses 362
Beaches Bhalil 215 Byzantine Empire 49
Agadir 290 Bicycles 363
Al-Hoceima 157 Bigoudine 131 C
Essaouira 16, 127 Bin el-Ouidane Dam 224–5 Cadet, A. 110
Haouzia (Azemmour) 117 Birds Cadi Ayad 230
Oualidia 13, 119 bird-watching 343 Café Hafa (Tangier) 144
Plage Blanche (Guelmim) Dayet Srji 285 Café Maure (Rabat) 72
298 Îles Purpuraires 128 Café de Paris (Tangier) 143
Riffian coast 159 Lakes tour 217 Caligula, Emperor 49, 82
Saïdia 164 Moulay Bousselham 12, 94 Calligraphy, Arabic 174
Sidi Bouzid 119 Moulouya Estuary 15, 163 Camel treks 17, 344, 345
Sidi Kaouki 128 Sidi Bouhaba Lake 91 Campsites 303
Sidi Moussa Aglou 296 Souss Massa National Park Candle Festival (Salé) 42
Tangier 144–5 16, 296 Cannabis 163
Beat generation 133, 139 Tamri 131 Cap Beddouza 119
The Beatles 144 Vallée des Oiseaux 269 Cap Malabata 145, 150
Becker, Jacques 292 Western Sahara 287 Cap Sim 127
Beckett, Samuel 145 Black Guard 58 Cap Spartel 144, 150
Beer 319 Boabdil 53 hotels 309
Bel, Alfred 172 Boats restaurants 324
Ben Arafa 61 ferries 359 Cap des Trois Fourches 15,
Ben Barka, Mehdi 62 sailing 343 163
Ben Morro Kasbah (Skoura) 276 Bofill, Ricardo 110 Capitol (Volubilis) 207, 209
Ben Youssef Medersa Bogart, Humphrey 102 Capote, Truman 139
(Marrakech) 16, 232 Books, Musée Dar el-Batha Caracalla, Emperor 96, 97, 209
Beni Bou Ayach 157 (Fès) 172 Carpets 33, 336–7
Beni Enzar 162 Borj en Naam (Tangier) 137 Dar Si Saïd Museum
Beni Mellal 224 Borj Nord (Fès) 170 (Marrakech) 245
festivals 42 Bou Inania Medersa (Fès) 28, Musée Dar Jamaï (Meknès)
hotels 310 176–7 194
restaurants 326 Bou Inania Medersa (Meknès) Carriages
Beni Meskin tribe 224 11, 14, 193 Dar Si Saïd Museum
Beni M’Gild tribe 194, 216, Bou Thrarar 277 (Marrakech) 244
220 Bouabid, Abder Rahim 62 horse-drawn 363
Beni Saad tribe 56 Bouhouda, festivals 43 Cars
Beni-Snassen Mountain Road Boujad 224 Aïcha Gazelles’ Trophy 42
165 Boulaouane 116 Classic Car Rally 42
Beni-Snassen Mountains 164 Boulaouane wine 117 driving in Morocco 360–61
Benkirane, Abdelilah 63 Boulevard Houphouët Boigny ferries 359
Berbers 36–7 (Casablanca) 102 hiring 361
Berbers of the High Atlas Boulevard Mohammed V off-road driving 343
263 (Casablanca) 13, 102–3 see also Tours by car
Carthaginians 49 Ceramics (cont.) Cirque de Jaffar 282

Mehdya 90 Musée National de la Citerne Portugaise
Tangier 133 Céramique (Safi) 122 (Portuguese Cistern)
Casablanca 66, 98–111 shopping for 334 (El-Jadida) 112, 118–19
2 days in Casablanca 13 Cercle Militaire (Casablanca) Cities, royal 197
airport 358 103 City carpets 337
Architecture of the 1920s Ceuta 15, 55, 56, 147, 151 City Walls
and 1930s 105 Chams el-Doha 85 Rabat 71, 72, 74
climate 47 Chaouia 116 see also Ramparts
entertainment 338, 339, 341 Chefchaouen 11, 15, 64–5, Clairin, Georges 139
festivals 42 146, 154–5 Les Aïssaouas 202–3
history 61 festivals 44 Classic Car Rally 42
hospitals and clinics 353 hotels 309 Claudius, Emperor 49, 97, 206
hotels 307 map 155 Cleopatra Selene 82
map 100–101 restaurants 324 Climate 46–7, 348
restaurants 321–2 Chellah Necropolis (Rabat) 12, Clinics 353
Casablanca Conference (1943) 84–5 Clocktower (Casablanca) 102
111 Cherada tribe 205 Clothing
Casablanca Twin Center Cherry Festival (Sefrou) 43, Berber 36–7
(Casablanca) 13, 110 215 Dar Si Saïd Museum
Cascades d’Ouzoud 210, 211, Chez Bennis (Casablanca) (Marrakech) 245
225 110 etiquette 351
hotels 312 Chiadma Region 122 hiking and trekking 344
restaurants 327 Chigaga dunes 273 Moroccan dress and
Cascades de Ras el-Oued 214 Chiker 214 jewellery 40–41
Cascades des Vierges (Ifrane) Chiker Caves 215 Musée Dar Jamaï (Meknès)
216 Children, in restaurants 315 195
Casinos 340, 341 Cholera 353 in restaurants 315
Castel 117 Choukri, Mohammed 139 shopping for 335
La Cathédrale (Aït Bouguemez Christian Prison (Meknès) Coach travel 365
valley) 261 196 Coffee 318
Cathedrals Christianity 49, 82 Cogné, François 103
Cathédrale Saint-Pierre Chrob ou Chouf Fountain Coins 355
(Rabat) 79 (Marrakech) 230 Cold drinks 318
Ceuta 151 Churches Colline du Charf (Tangier) 11,
Catholic Cemetery (Larache) Anglican Church of St 15, 145
94 Andrew (Tangier) 15, 142 Colline des Potiers (Safi) 122
Cato the Younger 209 Church of the Immaculate Commodius, Emperor 97
Caves Conception (Tangier) 138 Communications 356–7
Chiker Caves 215 Church of Notre-Dame-de- Concerts 339
Gouffre du Friouato 215 Lourdes (Casablanca) 101 Consernor 123
Grotte du Chameau 164 Église Notre-Dame Consulat de France
Grotte de Tghasrout 164 (Essaouira) 127 (Casablanca) 103
Grottes d’Hercule 150 Église Notre-Dame-de Consulates 349
Imouzzer du Kandar 215 Lourdes (Casablanca) 104 Copper 33
Kef el-Moumen Caves Église du Sacré-Coeur Córdoba 50, 51, 54, 79
(Sefrou) 215 (Casablanca) 104 Corniche d’Aïn Diab
Win t’mdoum Caves 130 Nuestra Señora de Africa (Casablanca) 13, 111
Central Market (Casablanca) (Ceuta) 151 Cornut, Théodore 124, 125
102, 103 Portuguese Chapel (Safi) Cortège of Venus (Volubilis)
Centre Hassan II des 122 137, 209
Rencontres Internationales La Purísima Concepción Cotta, Ruins of 150
(Asilah) 95 (Melilla) 162 Cotton Festival (Beni Mellal) 42
Ceramics 33 Churchill, Winston Country souks 205
Colline des Potiers (Safi) Casablanca Conference 111 Couriers 357
122 Hôtel el-Minzah (Tangier) Crafts 32–3
Dar Si Saïd Museum 143 Crafts Festival (Ouarzazate)
(Marrakech) 245 La Mamounia Hotel 42
Musée Dar el-Batha (Fès) (Marrakech) 238 Musée Dar el-Batha (Fès)
172 Cinema 338, 339 172–3
Musée Dar Jamaï (Meknès) Atlas Film Studios Credit cards 355
194 (Ouarzazate) 268 in shops 332
Crime 352, 353 Delacroix, Eugène (cont.) El-Hart-n-Igouramene 278

Cultural centres 340, 341 The Sultan Moulay El-Hiba 296
Currency 355 Abderrahman Leaving El-Jadida 112, 113, 118–19
Curtiz, Michael 102 Meknès 48 festivals 43
Customs and excise 349 Denis, M.P., Audience Given by hotels 308
Customs, Muslim 350–51 Moulay Ismaïl 58–9 restaurants 315
Cycling 363 Diabet 127 El-Jazouli 172, 202
Dialling codes 356 El-Jebha 156
D Diesel 361 El-Kaïm 56
Dadès Gorge 17, 264, 267, Disabled visitors, hotels 304 El-Kebab 221
277 Discos 340, 341 El-Kelaa M’Gouna 276–7
Dadès valley 265, 266, 277 Dlimi 63 festivals 42
Dakhla 17, 298 Doctors 352 El-Ksiba 221
restaurants 331 Dongen, Kees van 139 El-Mansour Eddahbi Dam 268
Damgaard, Frederic 128, 340 Doors El-Mdint 257
Danan Synagogue (Fès Dar Si Saïd Museum El-Mesabahiya Medersa (Fès)
el-Jedid) 186–7 (Marrakech) 244 179
Daniel 215 Musée Dar el-Batha (Fès) El-Mjadlia Souk (Marrakech)
Dar el-Bahr (Safi) 122 173 230
Dar el-Batha (Fès) 172–3 Draa Valley 17, 265, 266, 272 El-Mutawakkil, Sultan 96
Dar Bouazza, hotels 308 Dress see Clothing El-Oualid, Sultan 119
Dar Caïd Ouriki 251 Drissi, Mohammed 142 El-Sahrij Medersa (Fès) 179
Dar el-Glaoui (Marrakech) Driving see Cars El-Seffarine Medersa (Fès)
233 Drugs 179
Dar el-Kebira Quarter kif (cannabis) 163 Elatrach, Abdallah 129
(Meknès) 196 personal safety 352 Embassies 349
Dar el-Ma (Meknès) 14, 59, Dunes Embroidery 195
197 Chigaga dunes 273 Musée Dar el-Batha (Fès)
Dar el-Magana (Fès) 171 Erg Chebbi dunes 285, 346–7 173
Dar el-Makhzen (Fès el-Jedid) Nesrate dunes 273 Musée Dar Jamaï (Meknès)
166, 184 Tinfou dunes 273 195
Dar el-Makhzen (Marrakech) Dyers’ Souk (Marrakech) 234 shopping for 335
243 Emergencies 352, 353
Dar el-Makhzen (Meknès) 14, E Emigration 25
196–7 Eastern Oases 280–81 En-Nejjarine Mosque
Dar el-Makhzen (Rabat) 12, Ech Cherabliyine Mosque (Meknès) 192
84 (Fès) 171 Entertainment 338–41
Dar el-Makhzen (Tangier) Écochard, Michel 79 art galleries 340, 341
136–7 Economy 21–2, 24–5 casinos 340, 341
Dar Si Saïd Museum Ed-Dlala Kissaria (Meknès) cinemas 338, 339
(Marrakech) 16, 244–5 192 cultural centres 340, 341
Dar Soltane Mahdounia Education 22 feast days and festivals
(Diabet) 127 Église du Sacré-Coeur 42–5, 339
Darius Boyer House (Casablanca) 104 information sources 338
(Casablanca) 105 Église Notre-Dame (Essaouira) nightclubs 340, 341
Dates 127 piano bars 340, 341
Date Festival (Erfoud) 44 Église Notre-Dame-de shows and concerts 339
Tafilalt Palm Grove 284 Lourdes (Casablanca) 104 theatres 338, 339
Day of the Green March 45 El-Atika Mosque (Rabat) 73 Entry charges 348
Dayet Aoua 217 El-Attarine Medersa (Fès) Equipment, hiking and
Dayet Hachlaf 217 175 trekking 344
Dayet Ifrah 217 El-Attarine Souk (Fès) 171 Er-Rachidia 283
Dayet Srji 285 El-Cherratine Medersa (Fès) Erfoud 284
Decumanus Maximus 175 festivals 44
(Volubilis) 209 El-Fassi, Allal 61, 62 hotels 312
Degas, Edgar 137 El-Glaoui 61 restaurants 329
Dehodencq, Alfred Dar el-Glaoui (Marrakech) Erg Chebbi dunes (Erfoud)
Jewish Feast Day in Tetouan 233 285, 346–7
153 Telouet 257 Essaouira 66, 113, 115, 120–
King Boabdil’s Farewell 53 El-Had 259, 261 21, 124–9
Delacroix, Eugène 139 El-Hank Lighthouse festivals 43, 45
Lion of the Atlas 220 (Casablanca) 111 history 57
Essaouira (cont.) Fondouk el-Nejjarine (Fès) 14, Genet, Jean 139

hotels 308 171 Café de Paris (Tangier) 143
itineraries 10, 16 Food and drink Hôtel el-Minzah (Tangier)
map 125 Flavours of Morocco 316– 143
Painters of Essaouira 129, 17 tomb of 94
341 Olives and olive oil 221 Genseric, King of the Vandals
restaurants 323 safety 352–3 49
sardine fishing 123 sharing a meal 350 Geography, Arab 55
Etiquette 350–51 shopping 332–3 Gibraltar 151
Ettalbi, Fatima 128 What to drink in Morocco Gibraltar, Straits of 133
Events 42–5 318–19 Glaoui family
Excelsior Hotel (Casablanca) see also Restaurants Aït Mouted Kasbah (Dadès
102 Forbes, Malcolm 143 Gorge) 277
Foreign Legion Amerhidil Kasbah (Skoura)
F Ouarzazate 268 276
Façades (Casablanca) 105 Source Bleue de Meski 283 Taliouine 292
Fantasias 39 Tunnel de Foum-Zabel Tamdaght 269
Fatima bint Mohammed 282–3 Taourirt Kasbah 268
el-Fihri 180 Forest of Mamora 91 Tinerhir 278
Fauna see Wildlife Forêt de Cèdres 216 Glaoui residential block
Feast days 339 Forgeries 333 (Casablanca) 102, 103
Ferries 359 Former Mellah (Essaouira) 127 Gnaoua 136
Fès 67, 166–87 Fortresses 270–71 Gnaoua Festival (Essaouira)
4 days in Meknès, Volubilis Forum (Volubilis) 209 43
and Fès 11, 14 Foucauld, Charles de 221, 293 Go-Kart 24-Hour Race
ceramics 194 Foucault, Michel 145 (Marrakech) 45
climate 47 Foum el-Anser 224 Golf 342–3
entertainment 338, 339, Foum el-Hassan 293 Gordian III, Emperor 209
341 Foum-Rjam 273 Gorge of Wadi Laou 158
festivals 42, 44 Franco, General Francisco 60 Gouffre du Friouato 215
history 50, 54, 55, 56 François, Marcel 90 Goulimine see Guelmim
hotels 309–10 French language 349, 391 Goulmima 279
map 168–9 French Protectorate 60–61, Goundafa tribe 256
restaurants 325–6 147 Gran Teatro Cervantes
Tanneries of Fès 178 architecture 29 (Tangier) 143
Fès el-Bali 14, 167, 168, 170 Casablanca 99, 103, 110 Granada 53, 54, 55
Fès el-Jedid 11, 14, 167, 168, El-Jadida 118 Grand Mosque (Chefchaouen)
184–7 Er-Rachidia 283 154
map 185 Erfoud 284 Grand Mosque (Essaouira)
Fès, Treaty of (1912) 60 Fès 167 125
Festival of Fantasia (Meknès) Kenitra 91 Grand Mosque (Fès el-Jedid)
44 Rabat 79 184
Festivals 42–5, 339 Zagora 272 Grand Mosque (Meknès) 14,
Holy Men and Mystics see also Foreign Legion 192, 194
202–3 Friday prayers 35 Grand Mosque (Salé) 90
religious festivals 35, 45 Friezes, Arabic calligraphy 174 Grand Mosque (Tangier)
Fig Festival (Bouhouda) 43 Fuel 361 137
Figuig 165 Funerary architecture, Musée Grand Mosque (Taza) 214
Film see Cinema Dar el-Batha (Fès) 173 Grand Socco (Place du 9 Avril
Finnt Oasis 268 1947) (Tangier) 15, 142
Fire brigade 352, 353 G Grande Rue de Fès el-Jedid
Fishing, Sea fishing in Galerie d’Art Contemporain (Fès) 184–5, 185
Morocco 123 Mohammed Drissi (Tangier) Grands taxis 362, 365
Flint, Bert, Bert Flint Museum 142 Great Mosque (Rabat) 78
(Marrakech) 239 Galerie Damgaard (Essaouira) Great Synagogue (Tangier)
Flynn, Errol 143 128, 340, 341 143
Folk Music Festival Galerie Delacroix (Tangier) Green March (1975) 62, 287,
(Al-Hoceima) 43 142, 143 298
Fondation Lorin (Tangier) 138 Galleries see Museums and Gris de Boulaouane 117
Fondouk (Chefchaouen) 154 galleries Grotte du Chameau 164
Fondouk Chejra (Tangier) Gardens see Parks and Grotte de Tghasrout 164
142 gardens Grottes d’Hercule 150
Guéliz (Marrakech) 246–7 Hippies 139 House of the Ephebe

Guelmin (Goulimine) 298 History 49–63 (Volubilis) 209
festivals 43 Holidays, public 45 House of Orpheus (Volubilis)
hotels 313 Holy Men and Mystics 202–3 208
moussem 203 Honey Festival (Imouzzer des Human rights 63
Guesthouses and guest Ida Outanane) 43 Hyatt Regency Hotel
rooms 304 Hornacheros 74 (Casablanca) 102
Guides 363 Horses 38–9
Festival of Fantasia (Meknès) I
H 44 Ibn Battuta 55
Ha Dra 122 Haras de Meknès 197 Ibn Khaldoun 54, 185
Habs Qara (Meknès) 14, 196 Horse Festival (Tissa) 44–5 Karaouiyine Library (Fès)
Hadj Tenim 58 horse-drawn carriages 363 179
Hafsid dynasty 54 riding 342, 342, 343 Karaouiyine Mosque (Fès)
Haha 130 Hospitality 350 180
Hanno 49 Hospitals 352, 353 Ibn el-Khatib 180
Haouz carpets 337 Hostels 304 Ibn Toumart 54, 256
Haouzia 117 Hôtel Continental (Tangier) Ibn Tufaïl 54
Haras de Meknès 197 137 Ibn Tufayl 179
Haratines 265 Hôtel el-Minzah (Tangier) Ida Outanane Berbers 130
Harley-Davidson Raid 42 142–3 Idriss I, Sultan 50, 215
Harris, Walter Hotels 302–13 Fès 167
grave of 142 Casablanca 307 tomb (Moulay Idriss) 204
Villas Harris (Cap Malabata) chain and luxury hotels Volubilis 206
150 303 Idriss II, Sultan 50
Hassan I see Moulay el-Hassan, choosing a hotel 302 Bhalil 215
Sultan classification of hotels and Fès 167
Hassan II, King 23–4, 61, 62–3 services 302 Zaouia of Moulay Idriss II
Al-Akhawaya University disabled visitors 304 (Fès) 175
(Ifrane) 216 Fès 309–10 Idrissid dynasty 28, 50
death of 21, 23, 63 High Atlas 312 Idrissid shorfa 154, 156
Green March 287 Marrakech 311–12 Ifni, Lake 253
Mausoleum of Mohammed Mediterranean Coast and Ifrane 14, 211, 216
V (Rabat) 80 the Rif 309 climate 47
Hassan II Mosque Meknès and Volubilis 310 hotels 310–11
(Casablanca) 13, 28, 98, Middle Atlas 310–11 restaurants 326–7
106–9 Northern Atlantic Coast Igdaoun Kasbah 272
Hassan Tower (Rabat) 12, 53, 306–7 Igherm 292–3
69, 78–9 Ouarzazate & the Southern Igherm-n-Ougdal 257
Hassan-Addakhil dam 283 Oases 312–13 Ijoukak 256
Hayworth, Rita 143 prices 303 Île de Mogador 128
Health 352–3 Rabat 306 Îles Purpuraires 128
Hendrix, Jimi 127, 131 reservations 303 Illness
Henna 36 riads 304 minor 352–3
Henna Souk (Fès) 171 Southern Atlantic Coast serious 353
Henry the Navigator, Prince 308 Im Zouren 157
55 Southern Morocco and Imelghas 261
Hercules 94, 150, 151 Western Sahara 313 Imessouane 113
Heri es-Souani (Meknès) 14, Tangier 308–9 Imi Irhzer 131
197 unmarried couples 304 Imi-n-Ifri 225
High Atlas 67, 248–63 House of the Athlete Imilchil 262, 263
Berbers of the High Atlas (Volubilis) 209 festivals 44
263 House of the Columns Imlil 253
carpets 336 (Volubilis) 206 hotels 312
hotels 312 House of the Cortège of restaurants 328
Jbel Toubkal Massif tour 253 Venus (Volubilis) 207, Imouzzer des Ida Outanane
map 250–51 209 130
Mountains of Morocco House of Dionysus and the festivals 43
222–3 Four Seasons (Volubilis) tour by car 130–31
restaurants 328–9 188 Imouzzer du Kandar 211, 213,
Higueruela, Battle of 53 House of the Dog (Volubilis) 215
Hiking and trekking 344–5 209 festivals 43
Imperial City (Meknès) 196 Jbel Siroua 288 Kasbahs (cont.)

Independence Day 45 Jbel Tassemit 224 Ben Morro Kasbah (Skoura)
Insects 353 Jbel Tazzeka National Park 276
International Cultural Festival 211, 214 Chefchaouen 154
(Asilah) 43 Jbel Tidirhin 147, 156 Igdaoun Kasbah 272
International Festival of Jbel Toubkal Massif 250, 252 Kasba Tadla 221
Sacred Music (Fès) 42 tour by car 253 Kasbah Boulaouane
International Film Festival Jbel Zagora 273 116–17
(Marrakech) 45 Jebala tribe 155, 158 Kasbah Cherarda (Fès
International Music Festival Jewellery el-Jedid) 187
(Ouarzazate) 45 Berber 37 Kasbah Hadrach (Meknès)
Internet access 357 Dar Si Saïd Museum 197
Irrigation 52, 280–81 (Marrakech) 244–5 Kasbah Hamidouch 122
Iseli, Lake 262 Moroccan dress and Kasbah Ismaïla (Settat)
Iskattafène 261 jewellery 40–41 116
Islam Musée Dar Jamaï (Meknès) Morocco’s architectural
Arabic calligraphy 174 195 heritage 279
customs 350–51 Jewish Feast Day in Tetouan Old Kasbah (Agadir) 290
festivals 35, 45 (Dehodencq) 153 Oudaïa Kasbah (Rabat) 12,
history of Morocco 50 Jews 68, 72–3
Islamic faith in Morocco Danan Synagogue (Fès Tamnalt Kasbahs 277
34–5 el-Jedid) 186–7 Tangier 136, 136
Regraga Berbers 122 El-Jadida 118 Taourirt Kasbah (Ouarzazate)
see also Medersas, Mosques Essaouira 127 17, 268–9, 279
Islamic Party of Justice and Judaism in Morocco 53 Tiffoultoute Kasbah 268
Development (PJD) 24 Mellah (Fès el-Jedid) 184, Timiderte Kasbah 272
Isly, Battle of (1844) 57 186 Tioute Kasbah 292
Istiqlal Party 24, 61 Mellah (Marrakech) 239 Kean, Emily 142
Itineraries 10–17 Musée du Judaïsme Kef el-Moumen Caves (Sefrou)
2 days in Casablanca and Marocain (Casablanca) 110 215
the Coast 13 Ouezzane 156 Kenitra 87, 88, 91
2 days in Rabat 12 Sefrou 215 hotels 306
4 days in Meknès, Volubilis Tetouan 152, 153 restaurants 321
and Fès 11, 14 John the Baptist, St 43, 165 Ketama 156
7 days in Tangier and the John Paul II, Pope 62 Khemisset 205
Mediterranean Coast 11, Juba II, King of Mauretania 49, Khenifra 220–21
15 97, 209 restaurants 327
14 days in Marrakech and Essaouira 124 Khouribga, hotels 311
the South 10, 16–17 Îles Purpuraires 128 Kif (Cannabis) 163
Izourar, Lake 259, 261 Musée Archéologique King Boabdil’s Farewell
(Rabat) 82, 83 (Dehodencq) 53
J Judaism see Jews Kissarias
Jardins Exotiques (Sidi Julia Domna 209 Marrakech 235
Bouknadel) 90 Justice and Development Meknès 192
Jazz Party 63 Kite-surfing 343
Jazz au Chellah (Rabat) 44 Koran 34–5
Jazz Festival (Tangier) 44 K Arabic calligraphy 174
Oudaïa Jazz Festival 43 Kaftans 41 Koranic Library (Tamegroute)
Jbel Alam 158 Kalah Iris 157, 159 273
Jbel Angour 252 Karaouiyine Library (Fès) 179 Koubba Ba’Adiyn (Marrakech)
Jbel Aoulime 292 Karaouiyine Mosque (Fès) 11, 28, 51, 233
Jbel Ayachi 250, 282 14, 28, 50, 180–83 Koubba el-Khayatine
Jbel Bou Iblane 212 Kasbah Mosque (Marrakech) (Meknès) 14, 196
Jbel Bou Naceur 212 16, 242 Koubba of Sidi bou Ali
Jbel Fourhal 165 Kasbah Mosque (Tangier) 15, Serghine 215
Jbel Ghat 260 136 Koubba of Sidi Othman
Jbel Lekst 297 Kasbahs 270–71 (Boujad) 224
Jbel M’Goun 250, 258, Aït Arbi Kasbah 277 Koutoubia Mosque
261 Aït Mouted Kasbah 277 (Marrakech) 28, 52, 226, 227,
Jbel Ouhattar 252 Amerhidil Kasbah (Skoura) 240–41
Jbel Oukaïmeden 252 276 itineraries 10, 16
Jbel Sarhro 266, 269, 272 Baha Kasbah (Nekob) 269 Ksar el-Kebir 56, 96
Ksar es-Seghir 151 M Maps (cont.)

beach 145 Ma el-Ainin, Sheikh, Tan Tan Ouarzazate and the
Ksour in the oases 283 298 Southern Oases 266–7
Macaques (Barbary apes) 27 Rabat 70–71
L McBey, James 138 Rabat: Oudaïa Kasbah street-
Laayoune 17, 298 McBey, Margarite 138 by-street 72–3
Labour Day 45 McLean, Sir Harry, grave of The Rif 158–9
Laforgue, A. 103 142 Southern Atlantic Coast
Lakes tour 217 Maghrebi Union Treaty (1988) 114–15
Lalla Aouda Mosque (Meknès) 63 Southern Morocco and
196 Mahakma du Pacha Western Sahara 288–9
Lalla el-Azhar Mosque (Fès (Casablanca) 110 Tangier 134–5
el-Jedid) 185 Maïmoune, Ali 128, 129 Volubilis 206–7
Lalla Messaouda, tomb of Majorelle, Jacques 103, 139, Zegzel Gorge tour 164–5
243 247 Marabouts
Lalla Mina Gardens (Fès Majorelle, Louis 247 Aït Bouguemez valley 261
el-Jedid) 184 Majorelle Garden (Marrakech) Marabout of Sidi
Lalla Rekia 215 16, 247 Abderrahman (Casablanca)
Lamali, Boujmaa 122 Makina (Fès el-Jedid) 187 111
Landscape 26–7 Malabata, Cap see Cap Marabout of Sidi M’Barek 276
Language 349 Malabata Marathon des Sables 42,
Berber 22–3 La Mamounia Hotel 345
phrasebook 391–2 (Marrakech) 238, 340, 341 Marchisio, Antoine 238
Laprade, A. 103, 104 Manifesto of Independence Mardoch, Rabbi 293
Larache 94 (1944) 61 Marhaba Palace (Tangier) 132
hotels 307 Manifesto of Independence Mariam el-Fihri 179
restaurants 321 Day 45 Markets 333
Las Navas de Tolosa, Battle of Manuel I, King of Portugal 291 see also Souks
(1212) 54, 69 Manuscripts Marquetry 126
Lean, David 268 Arabic calligraphy 174 Marrakech 67, 226–47
Leatherwork 32 Dar el-Batha (Fès) 172 14 days in Marrakech and
Musée Dar el-Batha (Fès) Maps the South 16–17
172 Africa 19 airport 358
Tanneries of Fès 178 Agadir 291 climate 47
Legzira 294–5 Aït Bouguemez valley 258–9 entertainment 338, 339, 340,
Lepiney Hut (Jbel Toubkal Beaches around Tangier 341
Massif ) 253 144–5 festivals 43, 45
Librairie des Colonnes Casablanca 100–101 history 51, 54, 55, 56
(Tangier) 143 Chefchaouen 155 hospitals and clinics 353
Lighthouses Climate of Morocco 46–7 hotels 311–12
Cap Spartel 150 Essaouira 125 map 228–9
El-Hank Lighthouse Fès 168–9 ramparts 231
(Casablanca) 111 Fès el-Jedid 185 restaurants 327–8
Punto Almina 151 High Atlas 250–51 souks 234–5
Sidi Boubeker 117 Imouzzer des Ida Outanane Marrakech Biennale 45
Lion of the Atlas (Delacroix) tour 130–31 Marrast, J. 103
220 Itineraries 10–11 Marriage Fair (Imilchil) 44, 262,
Lions of the Atlas 220 Jbel Toubkal Massif tour 253 263
Literature, Artists and Writers Lakes tour 217 Masmouda 37
in Tangier 139 Marrakech 228–9 Matisse, Henri 133
Lixus 87, 94–5, 97 Marrakech: souks 234–5 Odalisque à la Culotte Grise
Loire, G. 104 Mediterranean Coast and 139
Louis XIV, King of France 58, the Rif 148–9 Mauretania 49
59, 199 Meknès 190–91 Roman towns 97
Louis XV, King of France 124 Meknès and Volubilis 189 Mausoleum of Mohammed V
Lyautey, Marshal Hubert 60, Middle Atlas 212–13 (Rabat) 12, 29, 69, 76–7,
61, 247 Morocco 18–19 80–81
Casablanca 99 Morocco at a glance 66–7 Mausoleum of Moulay Ali
Palais Bahia (Marrakech) Morocco road map see Back Cherif (Rissani) 285
239 endpaper Mausoleum of Moulay Ismaïl
Rabat 69, 79 Northern Atlantic Coast (Meknès) 14, 29, 59, 198–
statue of 103 88–9 201
Mausoleum of Sidi Bou Melilla 15, 147, 162–3 Mohammed V Airport

Ghaleb (Fès) 179 Mellah (Fès el-Jedid) 184, (Casablanca) 358–9
Mausoleum of Sidi 186 Mohammed VI, King 21, 23,
Mohammed ben Aïssa Mellah (Marrakech) 239 24, 25, 63, 351
(Meknès) 202 Menara (Marrakech) 16, 246 Islamic faith 34
Mawazine (Rabat) 43 Merinid dynasty 37, 53, 54, King Mohammed VI’s
Mazagan 118 55 Birthday 45
Meals, sharing 350 architecture 28 Tangier 133
Méchouars Chellah Necropolis (Rabat) Throne Day 43, 45
Fès el-Jedid 187 84–5 Mohammed VI Museum of
Marrakech 243 Fès 167, 176, 179, 184, 186 Modern and Contemporary
Medersas 177 Ksar es-Seghir 151 Art (Rabat) 84
Ben Youssef Medersa Meknès 193 Mohammed Belarbi el-Jamaï
(Marrakech) 16, 232 Merinid Tombs (Fès) 170 194
Bou Inania Medersa (Fès) royal cities 197 Mohammed ben Abdallah,
176–7 Salé 90 Sultan
Bou Inania Medersa Taza 214 Aguedal Gardens
(Meknès) 11, 14, 28, 193 Tin Mal 256 (Marrakech) 246
El-Attarine Medersa (Fès) Merzouga 285 En-Nejjarine Mosque
175 Metalwork (Meknès) 192
El-Cherratine Medersa (Fès) Musée Dar Jamaï (Meknès) Mohammed Bou Nasri 273
175 195 Mohammed ech-Cheikh 56,
El-Mesabahiya Medersa (Fès) shopping for 335 290
179 M’Goun 223, 276 Mohammed el-Nasser 54, 179
El-Sahrij Medersa (Fès) 179 Mhamid 10, 273 Mohammedia 111
El-Seffarine Medersa (Fès) 179 Middle Atlas 12, 210–25 Moharem 45
Medersa Ben Youssef carpets 337 Monarchy, etiquette 351
(Marrakech) 236–7 hotels 310–11 Money 354–5
Medical care 352 Lakes tour 217 Monk seals 297
Medinas 30–31 lions 220 Monte Hacho 151
Chefchaouen 154–5 map 212–13 Moors 152
El-Jadida 118 Mountains of Morocco Mopeds 363
Essaouira 125 222–3 Morand, Paul 139
Fès 169 restaurants 326–7 Moretti Milone (Casablanca)
Old Medina (Casablanca) 13, Midelt 282 102
104 festivals 44 Moriscos 56
Quartier Habous (New Minarets 52–3 Rabat 75, 78
Medina, Casablanca) 110 Mineral water 319 Moroccan Festival (Suréda)
Safi 122 Mischliffen 216 8–9
Tetouan 152–3 Mobile phones 356 Morrice, James Wilson 139
Mediouna carpets 337 Mogodor see Essaouira Mosques (general)
Mediterranean Coast and the Mohammed, Prophet 56, minarets 52–3
Rif 146–65 154 The Role of the Mosque 181
7 days in Tangier and the Arabic calligraphy 174 visiting 351
Mediterranean Coast 11, 15 Islamic festivals 35 Mosques (individual)
hotels 309 Koran and Sunna 34 Andalusian Mosque (Fès)
map 148–9 Regrara Berbers 122 179
restaurants 324–5 Mohammed II, Sultan see Sidi Bab Doukkala Mosque
The Rif 158–9 Mohammed ben Abdallah (Marrakech) 233
sea fishing in Morocco Mohammed IV, Sultan 57 Ech Cherabliyine Mosque
123 Mohammed V, King 60–62 (Fès) 171
Mehdya 90–91 Casablanca Conference 111 El-Atika Mosque (Rabat) 73
Meknassa tribe 214 Grand Mosque (Tangier) En-Nejjarine Mosque
Meknès 188–203 137 (Meknès) 192
4 days in Meknès, Volubilis Grand Socco (Place du 9 Grand Mosque
and Fès 11, 14 Avril 1947, Tangier) 142 (Chefchaouen) 154
architecture 59 Hassan Tower (Rabat) 12, Grand Mosque (Essaouira)
festivals 44 79 125
history 57, 58 Mausoleum of Mohammed Grand Mosque (Fès el-Jedid)
hotels 310 V (Rabat) 12, 29, 76–7, 184
maps 189, 190–91 80–81 Grand Mosque (Meknès) 14,
restaurants 326 Oualidia 119 192, 194
Mosques (individual) (cont.) Moulay Abderrahman, Sultan Moulay Ismaïl, Sultan (cont.)
Grand Mosque (Salé) 90 (cont.) Meknès 189, 192, 193, 196,
Grand Mosque (Tangier) Aguedal Gardens 197
137 (Marrakech) 246 Moulay Idriss 204
Grand Mosque (Taza) 214 Mausoleum of Moulay Rabat 72, 74
Great Mosque (Rabat) 78, 79 Ismaïl (Meknès) 198 Regraga 230
Hassan II Mosque Menara (Marrakech) 246 Tangier 133
(Casablanca) 13, 28, 98, Moulay Abdessalam ben Taroudannt 292
106–9 Mchich, tomb of 158 Taza 214
Hassan Tower (Rabat) 78–9 Moulay Ahmed al-Dahbi Moulay Mehdi Hassan, Sultan
Karaouiyine Mosque (Fès) 198 232
11, 14, 28, 50, 180–81 Moulay Ali ben Rachid 154 Moulay Mohammed 56
Kasbah Mosque (Marrakech) Moulay Ali Cherif, mausoleum Moulay Rachid, Sultan 56, 57,
16, 242 of (Rissani) 285 285
Kasbah Mosque (Tangier) Moulay Bouchaïb 117 El-Cherratine Medersa (Fès)
15, 136 Moulay Bousselham 12, 89, 175
Koutoubia Mosque 94 Er-Rachidia 283
(Marrakech) 16, 28, 52, 226, festivals 44 Kasbah Cherarda (Fès
227, 240–41 hotels 307 el-Jedid) 187
Lalla Aouda Mosque Moulay Bouzerktoun 127 Rabat 74
(Meknès) 196 Moulay Brahim 256 Moulay Sherif 56
Lalla el-Azhar Mosque (Fès Moulay Hafidh, Sultan 57, 60 Moulay Sliman 57
el-Jedid) 185 Quartier du Marshan American Legation (Tangier)
Mosque of Moulay Abdallah (Tangier) 144 138
(Fès el-Jedid) 184 Moulay Hassan, Sultan 285 Andalusian Wall (Rabat) 78
Mosque of Sidi Bou Abib Moulay el-Hassan, Sultan 57, Grand Mosque (Tangier)
(Tangier) 142 194 137
Mouassine Mosque Anglican Church of St Moulay Yazid 57, 186
(Marrakech) 233 Andrew (Tangier) 142 Moulay Youssef, Sultan 60
Moulay Idriss II Mosque (Fès) Bab el-Makhzen (Meknès) Mouloud 45
20 197 Moulouya Estuary 15, 163
Sliman Mosque (Rabat) 70 Îles Purpuraires 128 Mountain biking 344
Tin Mal 256–7 Makina (Fès) 170, 187 Mountain Crests Road 158
Motorbikes Tiznit 296 Mountains of Morocco 222–3
Harley-Davidson Raid 42 Moulay Idriss 204 Moussa ibn Nosaïr 50
off-road driving 343 hotels 310 Moussems (festivals) 37
Mouassine Mosque restaurants 326 Dar Zhira (Tangier) 44
(Marrakech) 233 Moulay Idriss II Mosque (Fès) Dar Zhiroun (Rabat) 43
Moulay Abdallah 119 20 Mohammed Bou Nasri
moussem 203 Moulay Idriss II, moussem of (Tamegroute) 45
Moulay Abdallah (holy man) 203 Moulay Abdallah Amghar
119 Moulay Ismaïl, Sultan 56, 57, (El-Jadida) 43
Moulay Abdallah, Sultan 58–9 Moulay Abdallah ben
(Alaouite) 57 Agadir 291 Brahim (Ouezzane) 42
Bab Mansour el-Aleuj Architectural Heritage of Moulay Abdessalam ben
(Meknès) 193 Moulay Ismaïl 59 Mchich (Tetouan) 43
Old Kasbah (Agadir) 290 Beni Mellal 224 Moulay Aissa ben Driss (Aït-
Moulay Abdallah, Sultan Fès 167 Attab) 42
(Saadian) Kasba Tadla 221 Moulay Bousselham 43
Ben Youssef Medersa Kasbah (Chefchaouen) Moulay Idriss II (Fès) 44
(Marrakech) 232 154 Moulay Idriss Zerhoun 44
Mellah (Marrakech) 239 Kasbah (Tangier) 136 Regraga 42
Mouassine Mosque Kasbah Boulaouane 116 Setti Fatma 43
(Marrakech) 233 Kasbah Hamidouch 122 Sidi Ahmed ben Mansour
Moulay Abdallah Cherif 156 Kasbah Ismaïla (Settat) 116 (Moulay Bousselham) 44
Moulay Abdallah Quarter Khenifra 220 Sidi Ahmed (Tiznit) 43
(Fès el-Jedid) 184 Larache 94 Sidi Alla el-Hadj
Moulay Abdel Aziz, Sultan 57, Marrakech 230, 239, 242 (Chefchaouen) 44
60, 95, 244 Mausoleum of Moulay Sidi Daoud (Ouarzazate) 43
Dar el-Batha (Fès) 172 Ismaïl (Meknès) 14, 29, 59, Sidi el-Ghazi (Guelmim) 43
Moulay Abderrahman, Sultan 198–201 Sidi Lahcen ben Ahmed
57 Mehdya 91 (Sefrou) 43
Moussems (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) Odalisque à la Culotte Grise

Sidi Mohammed Laghdal Musée des Oudaïa (Rabat) (Matisse) 139
(Tan Tan) 43 12, 72, 74–5 Off-road driving 343
Sidi Mohammed Ma al-Aïnin Musée Sidi-Mohammed- Oil press (Volubilis) 208–9
(Tan Tan) 42–3 ben-Abdallah (Essaouira) Old Kasbah (Agadir) 290
Sidi Yahya ben Younes 128 Old Medina (Casablanca) 13,
(Oujda) 43 Museo de la Legión (Ceuta) 104
Mouyal, Elie 110 151 Olives and olive oil 221
Mrissa, beach 145 Museo Municipal (Melilla) Olive Tree Festival (Rhafsaï)
Msemrir 266 162–3 45
M’Soura Stone Circle 95 Museo Municipal El Revellin Omnium Nord Africain
Museums and galleries (Ceuta) 151 (Casablanca) 102
entry charges and opening Villa des Arts (Casablanca) Open-Air Theatre (Agadir)
hours 348 104, 340, 341 290
Bert Flint Museum Music Opening hours 348
(Marrakech) 239 International Festival of restaurants 314–15
Dar Si Saïd Museum Sacred Music (Fès) 42 shops and souks 332
(Marrakech) 16, 244–5 International Music Festival Orpheus 208
Fondation Lorin (Tangier) 138 (Ouarzazate) 45 Ottoman empire 56
Galerie d’Art Contemporain Jazz au Chellah (Rabat) 44 Oualidia 13, 113, 119
Mohammed Drissi (Tangier) Jazz Festival (Tangier) 44 hotels 308
15, 142 Mawazine (Rabat) 43 oysters 119
Galerie Damgaard Oudaïa Jazz Festival 43 restaurants 323
(Essaouira) 128 shows and concerts 339 Ouaouzguite tribe 292
Galerie Delacroix (Tangier) Muslim Quarters (Fès el-Jedid) Ouarzazate 10, 17, 268
142, 143 184–5 entertainment 341
Mohammed VI Museum of Muslims see Islam festivals 42, 43, 45
Modern and Contemporary Mystics 202 hotels 312–13
Art (Rabat) 84 restaurants 329–30
Musée Archéologique N Ouarzazate and the Southern
(Rabat) 12, 82–3 Nador 15, 162 Oases 264–85
Musée Archéologique Napoleon’s Hat (Tafraoute) 14 days in Marrakech and
(Tangier) 11, 15, 136–7 297 the South 10, 16–17
Musée Archéologique Nasrid dynasty 52, 53, 54 hotels 312–13
(Tetouan) 152 National Folklore Festival map 266–7
Musée des Armes (Fès) 170 (Marrakech) 43 restaurants 329–30
Musée d’Art Contemporain National parks Southern and Eastern Oases
136 Jbel Tazzeka 211, 214 280–81
Musée d’Art Morocain Souss Massa 16, 296 Oudaïa Jazz Festival 43
(Tetouan) 153 Nekob 269 Oudaïa Kasbah (Rabat)
Musée Bank Al Maghrib Neo-Classicism 105 12, 68
(Rabat) 79 Nesrate dunes 273 street-by-street 72–3
Musée du Bois (Fès) 171 Newspapers 357 Oudaïa Signal Station (Rabat)
Musée Dar Belghazi 90 Nightclubs 340, 341 73
Musée Dar el-Batha (Fès) 14, Nixon, Richard 238 Ouezzane 156
172–3 Nomad’s tent 299 festivals 42
Musée Dar Jamaï (Meknès) Northern Atlantic Coast Oufkir, General 63
11, 14, 194–5 86–97 Ouirgane 256
Musée Ethnographique hotels 306–7 hotels 312
(Oujda) 165 map 88–9 restaurants 328–9
Musée Ethnographique restaurants 321 Oujda 15, 148, 164–5
(Tetouan) 154 Nouveau Talborj (Agadir) festivals 43
Musée du Judaïsme 290 hotels 309
Marocain (Casablanca) Nuestra Señora de Africa restaurants 324
110 (Ceuta) 151 Oukaïmeden 248, 252
Musée de Marrakech 16, Numidia 49 hotels 312
232 restaurants 329
Musée Municipal du O Oukensous tribe 293
Patrimonie Amazighe Oases Oulad Abdelhalim Ksar
(Agadir) 290 ksour in the oases 283 (Rissani) 283, 285
Musée National de la Southern and Eastern Oases Oulad Driss 265
Céramique (Safi) 122 280–81 Oulad Jabeur Fouaga 165
Oum el-Izz 84 Parks and gardens (cont.) Place Souk el-Ghezel (Rabat)
Oum er-Rbia 211 Lalla Mina Gardens (Fès 75
sources of 220 el-Jedid) 184 Place Uta el-Hammam
Ourika valley 251, 252 Majorelle Garden (Chefchaouen) 154
festivals 43 (Marrakech) 16, 247 Plage des Amiraux 145
hotels 312 La Mamounia Hotel Plage Blanche (Guelmim) 298
restaurants 329 (Marrakech) 238 Plage Quemado (Al-Hoceima)
Outdoor activities 342–5 Menara (Marrakech) 16, 246 157
Ouzoud Falls see Cascades La Palmeraie (Marrakech) 16, Plateau des Lacs 262
d’Ouzoud 247 Plaza de Africa (Ceuta) 151
Oysters Parc de la Ligue Arabe Plinius 94
Oualidia 113, 119 (Casablanca) 13, 104 Police 353
Oyster Farm No 7 (Oualidia) Vallée des Oiseaux (Agadir) Polisario Front 62, 63
119 290 Politics 23–4, 62–3
Passage du Glaoui Polizzi, Coco 290
P (Casablanca) 103 Polizzi Medina (Agadir) 290
Painted rocks (Tafraoute) 297 Passage Sumica (Casablanca) Port de Jorf Lasfar 119
Painters of Essaouira 129 103 Porte de la Marine (Essaouira)
Palaces Passports 348–9 124
Ancien Palais de Mendoub Patios 31 Ports
(Tangier) 143 Pedestrians 363 Agadir 291
Dar el-Batha (Fès) 172–3 Peñon de Alhucemas 157 Casablanca 104
Dar el-Glaoui (Marrakech) Peñon de Velez de la Gomera Essaouira 124–5
233 156–7 Portuguese 55, 56, 147
Dar el-Kebira Quarter Pepys, Samuel 136 Agadir 291
(Meknès) 196 Personal safety 353 Azemmour 117
Dar el-Makhzen (Fès Pertuzio brothers 110 Casablanca 99
el-Jedid) 166, 184 Pétain, Philippe 60 El-Jadida 118
Dar el-Makhzen (Marrakech) Petit Socco (Tangier) 137 Essaouira 124
243 Petit taxis 362–3 Kasbah Boulaouane 116
Dar el-Makhzen (Meknès) Petrol 361 Ksar es-Seghir 151
14, 196–7 Peyriguère, Father Albert 221 Mehdya 91
Dar el-Makhzen (Rabat) 12, Pharmacies 352 Safi 122
84 Philip II, King of Spain 56 Tangier 133, 136
Dar el-Makhzen (Tangier) Philip III, King of Spain 69 Portuguese Chapel (Safi)
136–7 Phoenicians 49, 87, 113 122
Dar Si Saïd Museum Asilah 95 Portuguese Cistern (El- Jadida)
(Marrakech) 16, 244 Essaouira 124 112, 118–19
Musée des Oudaïa (Rabat) Île de Mogador 128 Post Office (Casablanca) 29,
12, 74–5 Lixus 94 103, 105
Palais el-Badi (Marrakech) 16, Tangier 133 Postal services 357
29, 239 Phonecards 356 Pottery see Ceramics
Palais Bahia (Marrakech) 2–3, Photography 350 Prayers, Friday 35
16, 238–9 Phrasebook 391–2 Préfecture (Casablanca) 103
Palais el-Mansour (Meknès) Piano bars 340, 341 Prehistoric sites
192 Pickpockets 352, 353 Akka 293
Royal Palace (Casablanca) Pilgrimages 202, 203 Foum-Rjam 273
110 Pinseau, Michel 106 M’Soura Stone Circle 95
Palais Ibn Séoud (Casablanca) Place du 9 Avril 1947 see Oukaïmeden 252
111 Grand Socco (Tangier) Prepaid currency cards
Palais de Justice (Casablanca) Place de Faro (Tangier) 143 355
103 Place de France (Tangier) 15, Primo de Rivera, José 152
La Palmeraie (Marrakech) 16, 143 Prost, Henri
247 Place el-Hedime (Meknès) Gueliz (Marrakech) 246
Parking 361 190, 193 La Mamounia Hotel
Parks and gardens Place Jemaa el-Fna (Marrakech) 238
Aguedal Gardens (Marrakech) 10, 16, 238 Ville Nouvelle (Rabat) 79
(Marrakech) 16, 246 Place Mohammed V Ptolemy, King of Mauretania
Andalusian Garden (Rabat) (Casablanca) 103 49, 82, 97
72 Place des Nations Unies Public holidays 45
Jardins Exotiques (Sid (Casablanca) 13, 102 La Purísima Concepción
Bouknadel) 90 Place el-Seffarine (Fès) 179 (Melilla) 162
Q Restaurants (cont.) Rue du Prince Moulay

Quarters, medinas 31 Mediterranean Coast and Abdallah (Casablanca) 103
Quartier Al-Andalus the Rif 324–5 Rue Es-Siaghine (Tangier) 15,
(Chefchaouen) 155 Meknès and Volubilis 326 138
Quartier Habous (New Middle Atlas 326–7 Rue Souïka (Rabat) 12, 78
Medina, Casablanca) 110 Moroccan specialities Rue Souk es-Sebat (Rabat) 12,
Quartier du Marshan (Tangier) 314–15 78
144–5 Northern Atlantic Coast 321 Rue Talaa Kebira (Fès) 168,
opening hours and 170–71
R reservations 314–15 Rue des Teinturiers (Fès) 179
Rabat 67, 68–85 Ouarzazate and the Ruins of Cotta 150
2 days in Rabat 12 Southern Oases 329–30 Rules of the road 360
entertainment 338, 339, 341 prices and tipping 315
festivals 43, 45 Rabat 320–21 S
history 53 Southern Atlantic Coast 323 Saadian dynasty 56
hospitals and clinics 353 Southern Morocco and architecture 29
hotels 306 Western Sahara 330–31 Marrakech 227, 231, 246
map 70–71 Tangier 323–4 Ouarzazate and the
restaurants 320–21 see also Food and drink Southern Oases 265
Rabies 353 Rhafsaï, festivals 45 Saadian Tombs (Marrakech)
Radio 357 Rharb 91 16, 29, 242–3
Rahba Kedima (Marrakech) Riads 304–5 Taroudannt 292
235 Rialto (Casablanca) 103 Sacred snakes 193
Rail travel 359, 364–5 The Rif 15, 67, 147, 149, 158–9 Safety 352–3
Rainfall 46–7 see also Mediterranean hiking and trekking 344
Raissouli 95 Coast and the Rif travel safety advice 349
Ramadan 34, 35, 42, 45 Rissani 284–5 Saffron (Taliouine) 293
Ramlia, restaurants 330 Road signs 360 Safi 113, 115, 122
Ramparts Roads 360 Sahara see Southern Morocco
El-Jadida 118 Rock engravings and Western Sahara
Essaouira 124 Akka 293 Sahraouis tribe 298
Marrakech 231 Draa valley 272 Saïd Ahansal 261
Meknès 14, 192 Oukaïmeden 252 Saïdia 15, 164
Rabat 72, 74 Rock formations (Lakes tour) hotels 309
Tangier 137 217 Sailing 343
Taroudannt 292 Rock generation 139 Saint-Exupéry, Antoine de
Ras el-Aïn 224 Rolling Stones 144 298
Ras el-Ma and the Mills Romans 87, 113 Saint-Laurent, Yves 247
(Chefchaouen) 155 Banasa 96 Saint-Olon, François Pidou de
Rbati, Mohammed ben Ali history 49 59
138 Îles Purpuraires 128 Sala 97
Reconquest, Christian 51, 52 Lixus 94–5 Sala Colonia 85
Regraga Berbers 42, 122 Rabat 69 Sala-Chellah
Religion Roman Towns in Morocco 97 Musée Archéologique
Holy Men and Mystics Sala Colonia 85 (Rabat) 82
202–3 Tangier 133, 138 see also Chellah Necropolis
moussems 37 Thamusida 91 Salé 90
see also Festivals; Islam Volubilis 206–9 festivals 42
Renaissance Café (Marrakech) Roosevelt, Franklin D. 61, 111 hotels 307
247 Rose Festival (El-Kelaa Sanhaja 37
“Republic of Bou Regreg” 69 M’Gouna) 42, 276, 277 Sanjurjo, General 157
Reservations 348 Royal cities 197 Sardine fishing 123
Restaurants 314–31 Royal Palace (Casablanca) 110 Scorpions 353
alcoholic drinks 315 Rue Boukhessissat (Fès Scorsese, Martin 268
Casablanca 321–2 el-Jedid) 186 Sea fishing 123
children 315 Rue des Consuls (Rabat) 12, Sea travel 359
cultural aspects 314 75 Seals, monk 297
dress 315 Rue Hadj Daoui (Rabat) 75 Seamen’s Cemetery (Salé) 90
Fès 325–6 Rue de la Liberté (Tangier) Sebasenus, Marcus Aurelius
Flavours of Morocco 316–17 142–3 209
High Atlas 328–9 Rue des Mérinides (Fès Sebastião I, King of Portugal
Marrakech 327–8 el-Jedid) 186 56, 96
Sebou Gorge 215 Sidi Mohammed ben (cont.) Southern Atlantic Coast
Security 352–3 Boujad 224 (cont.)
Sefrou 215 Casablanca 99, 104 restaurants 323
festivals 43 Diabet 127 sea fishing in Morocco 123
hotels 311 El-Jadida 118 Southern Morocco and
Seguibat tribe 224 Essaouira 124, 127 Western Sahara 66, 286–
Service Aéropostale 298 Fès 179, 184 99
Settat 116 Marrakech 230, 243 14 days in Marrakech and
Setti Fatma 252 Rabat 73, 79 the South 10, 16–17
Seville 52, 53, 54 Sidi Mohammed ben hotels 313
Sexually transmitted diseases Abderrahman 230, 238 map 288–9
353 Sidi Mohammed ben Aïssa restaurants 330–31
Shi’ite Muslims 50 192, 193, 202 Southern oases 280–81
Shopping 332–7 Sidi Mohammed ech-Cherki see also Ouarzazate and the
food stores 332–3 224 Southern Oases
forgeries 333 Sidi Moussa 90, 259, 260 Spain and Spanish settlers
how to bargain 333, 351 Sidi Moussa Aglou 296 Al-Hoceima 157
markets and souks 333 Sidi Oqba ibn Nafi 50 Ceuta 151
methods of payment 332 Sidi Yahia 165 Larache 94
Moroccan carpets 336–7 Sidi Yahia ben Younes, tomb Mehdya 91
opening hours 332 of 165 Melilla 162–3
what to buy in Morocco Sijilmassa 284–5 Morocco and Al-Andalus 51,
334–5 Silver, shopping for 335 52–3
see also Souks Sinoir 247 Rif 147
Shorfa dynasties 56 Skiing 252, 342, 343 Sidi Ifni 296–7
Shows 339 Skoura 17, 276 Tangier 133
Si Moussa, Grand Vizier 238 restaurants 330 Tetouan 152
Si Saïd ben Moussa 244 Sliman Mosque (Rabat) 70 Spartel, Cap see Cap Spartel
Sidi Abdallah ben Hassoun 90 Slipper Souk (Fès) 171 Spiders 353
Sidi Ahmed Ou Mghanni 202, Smara 298 Spirits 319
262 Smoking 351 Sports 342–5
Sidi Ali Lake 212 Snakes 353 Spring in Morocco 42–3
Sidi Allal el-Kairouani, tomb of sacred snakes 193 Sqala du Port (Essaouira) 124,
104 Socialist Party (USFP) 24 125
Sidi bel Abbès, Zaouia of Society 21–2, 62–3 Sqala de la Ville (Essaouira)
(Marrakech) 227, 230 Souks 30, 31, 333 124
Sidi Belyout 102 country souks 205 Stein, Gertrude 139
Sidi ben Achir 90 El-Had 259, 261 Stomach upsets 352–3
Sidi ben Slimane el-Jazouli, Fès 14, 171 Stone carving 334
Zaouia of (Marrakech) Marrakech 230, 234–5 Stone Circle, M’Soura 95
230 Meknès 14, 192 Street stalls, food 315
Sidi Bou Ghaleb, Mausoleum Rissani 285 Studs, horse breeding 38–9
of (Fès) 179 Souk Dakhli (Tangier) Sufism 158, 202
Sidi Boubeker lighthouse 117 137 The Sultan Moulay
Sidi Bouknadel 90 Souk el-Arba du Rharb 96 Abderrahman Leaving
Sidi Bourhaba Lake 91 Souk Jdid (Essaouira) 125 Meknès (Delacroix)
Sidi Bouzid 119 Taroudannt 292 48
Sidi Chamharouch 253 Wadi Laou 158 Summer in Morocco 43
Sidi el-Ghazi 203 Source Bleue de Meski 283 Sunni Islam 34, 50, 51
Sidi Ifni 294–5, 296–7 Sources of the Oum er-Riba Sunshine 46–7
hotels 313 220 Suréda, André, Moroccan
restaurants 331 Souss Massa National Park 16, Festival 8–9
Sidi Kacem 205 296 Surfing 343
Sidi Kaouki 127, 128 Souss plain 287 Essaouira 127
Sidi Khankroucht, beach Southern Atlantic Coast Oualidia 119
145 112–31 Sidi Kaouki 128
Sidi Lahcen Lyoussi 215 14 days in Marrakech and Sidi Moussa Aglou 296
Sidi Mancar, tomb of 116 the South 10, 16–17 see also Windsurfing
Sidi Mohammed ben hotels 308 Sylvester II, Pope 180
Abdallah (Mohammed II), Imouzzer des Ida Outanane Synagogues, Danan
Sultan 29, 57 tour 130–31 Synagogue (Fès el-Jedid)
Agadir 291 map 114–15 186–7
T Tata palm grove 293 Tizi-n-Tinififft Pass 272

Tabal, Mohammed 128, 129 Taxis Tizi-n’Tazazert Pass 269
Tabant 259 grands taxis 362, 365 Tizi-Touzlimt Pass 293
Tacheddirt 253 petits taxis 362–3 Tiznit 16, 296
Tafelney 127, 130 to/from airport 359 festivals 43
Tafilalt Palm Grove 284 Taylor, Elizabeth 143 hotels 313
Tafilalt valley 56, 266 Taza 214 restaurants 331
Tafraoute 297 Tazenakht 292 Tnine-de-l’Ourika 252
festivals 45 Tea 318 Todra Gorge 278
restaurants 331 Telephones 356 Tombs
Taghazoute 131 Television 357 holy men 203
Taghdichte 297 Telouet 249, 257 Merinid Tombs (Fès) 170
Tahiti Beach Club (Casablanca) Temperatures 46–7 Saadian tombs (Marrakech)
111 Tennis 343 16, 242–3
Taïbia brotherhood 156 Tents, nomad’s 299 see also individuals by name
Talassemtane 158 Terracotta, shopping for 335 Torres de Alcalá 156–7,
Taliouine 292 Tetouan 15, 152–3 160–61
saffron 293 festivals 43 Toubkal Refuge 253
Tamanar 130 hotels 309 Toundout 276
Tamaroute 131 Jewish community 152, Tour operators 359
Tamazight 22, 37 153 hiking and trekking 345
Tamdaght 269 restaurants 324–5 Tourist information 348
Tamegroute 17, 267, 273 Tetouani Fondouk (Fès) 179 Tournon, Paul 104
festivals 45 Thamusida 82, 91 Tours by car
Tamnalt Kasbahs 277 Theatre 338, 339 Imouzzer des Ida Outanane
Tamnougalt 272 Theft 352, 353 130–31
Tamri 130–31 Three Kings, Battle of the Jbel Toubkal Massif 253
Tamtattouchte 278–9 (1578) 56, 96, 239 Lakes tour 217
Tan Tan 16, 298 Throne Day 43, 45 Zegzel Gorge 164–5
festivals 42–3, 43 Thuya wood 126 Towns
Tan Tan Plage 298 Tickets, rail 364–5 driving in 360–61
Tangier 132–45 Tidirhine, Mount 159 getting around 362–3
7 days in Tangier and the Tiffoultoute Kasbah 268 Traffic hazards 360
Mediterranean Coast 11, Tigrigra valley 118–19 Trains see Rail travel
15 Tiles Trams 362
Artists and Writers in Tangier Bou Inania Medersa (Fès) Travel 358–65
139 176 air 358–9, 365
beaches 144–5 Musée Dar el-Batha (Fès) bus 362
climate 47 173 car 360–61
entertainment 338, 339, 341 see also Zellij tilework Casablanca 101
festivals 44 Timiderte Kasbah 272 coach 365
history 49, 56, 57, 61 Timit 261 Fès 169
hotels 308–9 Timitar Festival (Agadir) 43 High Atlas 251
map 134–5 Tin Mal 54, 256–7 Marrakech 229
restaurants 323–4 Tinerhir 278, 281 Mediterranean Coast and
Tangier, Bay of 15, 144, 145 Tinfou dunes 273 the Rif 149
Tanneries Tioulit 297 Meknès 191
Fès 178 Tioute Kasbah 292 Middle Atlas 213
Marrakech 231, 234 Tipping, in restaurants 315 Northern Atlantic Coast
Tanners’ Quarter (Fès) 14, Tirhboula 221 89
179 Tiselit, Lake 262 Ouarzazate and the
Taroudannt 292 Tissa, festivals 44–5 Southern Oases 266
Taourirt Kasbah (Ouarzazate) Tisselday, hotels 312 Rabat 71
17, 268–9, 279 Tizi-Beni-Selmane Pass 273 rail 359, 364–5
Tarfaya 17, 61, 298 Tizi-n-Aït Imger 257 safety advice 349
Tarhzirte Gorge 224 Tizi-n-Talrhemt Pass 282 Southern Atlantic Coast
Tariq ibn Ziyad 50, 52 Tizi-n-Test Pass 17, 223, 254–5 114
Taroudannt 17, 292 Tizi-n-Test Pass Road 10, Southern Morocco and
hotels 313 256 Western Sahara 289
restaurants 331 restaurants 329 Tangier 135
Tata 289, 292–3 Tizi-n-Tichka Pass Road taxis 362–3, 365
hotels 313 257 trams 362
Trees Visigoths 50 Websites 349

almond 159, 165 Vo Toan 80 Welles, Orson
argan 131, 222 Volubilis 67, 97, 188, 206–9 Citerne Portugaise
mountain areas 222–3 4 days in Meknès, Volubilis (El-Jadida) 119
working with thuya 126 and Fès 11, 14 Essaouira 124
Trekking see Hiking and Festival of Volubilis (Meknès) Western Sahara 62
trekking 44 see also Southern Morocco
Tribes, Berber 37 hotels 310 and Western Sahara
Triumphal Arch (Volubilis) maps 189, 206–7 Wheelchair access see
206, 209 Musée Archéologique Disabled travellers
Troglodyte dwellings, (Rabat) 82, 83 WiFi 357
Imouzzer du Kandar 215 restaurants 326 Wildlife 26–7
Trois Fourches, Cap des see bird-watching 343
Cap des Trois Fourches W Dayet Srji 285
Tunnel de Foum-Zabel 282–3 Wadi Aggaï Falls (Sefrou) Îles Purpuraires 128
215 Lakes tour 217
U Wadi Aliane, beach 145 lions of the Atlas 220
Umayyad caliphs 50, 51, 52 Wadi el-Abid 225 macaques (Barbary apes)
UNESCO World Heritage Sites Wadi Kiss 164 27
Aït Benhaddou 17, 269, Wadi Laou, Gorge of 158 monk seals 297
279 Wadi Loukkos 94 Moulay Bousselham
Fès 167, 171 Wadi Massa 296 12, 94
Lixus 94–5 Wadi Oum er-Rbia 114, 116 Moulay Estuary 163
Medina (Tetouan) 152 Wadi Ourika 252 Mountains of Morocco
Place Jemaa el-Fna Wadi Souss 287 223
(Marrakech) 10, 238 Wadi Zegzel Gorge 164 oases 281
Sidi Moussa 260 Walking Sidi Bourhaba Lake 91
Tin Mal 256–7 in towns 363 Souss Massa National Park
Union Nationale des Forces see also Hiking and trekking 16, 296
Populaires (USFP) 62 Walls see Ramparts Tamri 131
United Nations 61, 62 Walnut Festival (Al Haouz) Vallée des Oiseaux 269
Unmarried couples in hotels 45 Western Sahara 287
304 Water Wilhelm II, Kaiser 60, 133
Urban architecture of mineral water 319 Williams, Tennessee 139,
Morocco 28–9 safety 352 143
Usine de Marmar (Erfoud) Southern and Eastern oases Win t’mdoum Caves 130
284 280–81 Windsurfing 343
Water-skiing 343 see also Surfing
V Waterfalls Wines
Vaccinations 352 Cascades d’Ouzoud 210, Boulaouane wine 117
Vallée des Oiseaux (Agadir) 211, 225 what to drink in Morocco
290 Cascades de Ras el-Oued 319
Vallée des Oiseaux (Jbel 214 Winter in Morocco 45
Sarhro) 269 Cascades des Vierges (Ifrane) Women
Vallée des Roches 217 216 Berber women 36–7
Vallée des Roses 277 Foum el-Anser 224 dress codes 351
Vandals 49 Imouzzer 130 status of 23
Vérame, Jean 297 Ourika Valley 252 Woodwork 32
Vernet, Horace 57 Sources of the Oum er Rbia Dar Si Saïd Museum
Villa des Arts (Casablanca) 220 (Marrakech) 245
104, 340, 341 Tamaroute 131 Musée Dar el-Batha (Fès)
Villa Harris (Cap Malabata) Wadi Aggaï Falls (Sefrou) 172–3
150 215 Musée Dar Jamaï (Meknès)
Ville Nouvelle (Marrakech) Watersports 343 194
246–7 Wattasid dynasty 53, 55, 56, shopping for 334
Ville Nouvelle (Rabat) 12, 230 thuya 126
79 Weather 46–7, 348 World Bank 25
Ville Nouvelle (Tetouan) Weaving World War II 61, 111
152 carpets 336 Writers, Artists and Writers in
Vineyards, Boulaouane wine Chefchaouen 154–5 Tangier 139
117 Musée Dar el-Batha (Fès) Writing, Arabic calligraphy
Visas 348–9 173 174
Y Z Zellij tilework 51
Yacoub el-Mansour, Sultan Zad Pass 220 Bou Inania Medersa (Fès) 28,
54, 233 Zagora 17, 272–3 176
Marrakech 240, 242, 243 hotels 313 Mausoleum of Moulay Ismaïl
Rabat 69, 72, 74, 84 restaurants 330 (Meknès) 199
Salé 90 Zaïane tribe 220, 337 Musée Dar el-Batha (Fès) 173
Skoura 276 Zaouïa Ahansal 259, 261 Musée Dar Jamaiï (Meknès)
Yagour Plateau 252 Zaouïa Oulemsi 258, 259, 261 194
Yahia ibn Ibrahim 50–51 Zaouias Zemmour tribe 40, 194,
Year’s Day 45 Aït Bouguemez valley 261 205
Youssef ben Tachfine, Sultan Moulay Idriss II (Fès) 175 Zenaga 165
51, 247 Sidi bel Abbès (Marrakech) Zenet tribes 37, 55
Youssoufi, Abderrahmane 24, 227, 230 Zerhoun Massif 204–5
63 Sidi ben Slimane el-Jazouli Ziz Gorge 282–3
Youth Day 45 (Marrakech) 230 Ziz valley 265
Youth hostels 304, el-Tijaniya (Fès) 171 ksour 283
305 Zegzel Gorge 11, 15, 164–5 Zouzaf 128
384  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley and Hachette Livre would like to thank Nathalie Campodonico
the following people whose contributions and assistance A literary translator, Nathalie Campodonico has lived in
have made the preparation of this guide possible. Special Casablanca for about ten years. She is a contributor to
thanks are extended to the staff of the Institut du Monde various periodicals.
Arabe in Paris.
Fabien Cazenave
Publishing Manager After having lived in Morocco for many years, Fabien
Jane Ewart. Cazenave now heads the Arabic world division of the
specialist travel agency Voyageurs dans le Monde Arabe.
Managing Editor He thus has an extensive knowledge of Morocco and its
Anna Streiffert. facilities for foreign visitors.
Publisher Gaëtan du Chatenet

Douglas Amrine. An entomologist, ornithologist, corresponding member
of the Musée National d’Histoire Naturelle in Paris,
Cartography draughtsman and painter, Gaëtan du Chatenet is the author
Dave Pugh. of many works published by Delachaux et Niestlé and
Gallimard.
Senior DTP Designer
Jason Little. Alain Chenal
A specialist in international relations and in the Arab world,
Consultant Alain Chenal teaches law and political science at the
Christine Osborne. Université de Paris X-Nanterre. He is also Director of the
Institut du Monde Arabe in Paris.
Translator & Editor, UK Edition
Lucilla Watson.
Emmanuelle Honorin
Revisions & Relaunch Team An ethnologist and freelance journalist who contributes to
Louise Abbott, Shruti Bahl, Younès Cherkaoui Jaouad, Karen Géo and Le Monde de la Musique, Emmanuelle Honorin has
Faye D’Souza, Caroline Elliker, Mariana Evmolpidou, Carole special knowledge of Morocco, a country on which she
French, Emily Hatchwell, Jacky Jackson, Jude Ledger, Carly has written extensively.
Madden, Nicola Malone, Alison McGill, Rebecca Milner,
Casper Morris, Scarlett O’Hara, Jane Oliver-Jedrzejak, Rada Maati Kabbal
Radojicic, Ellen Root, Sands Publishing Solutions, Dawn Maati Kabbal teaches philosophy at the Faculty of
Schwartz, Safiya Shah, Ankita Sharma, Rituraj Singh, Beverly Humanities in Marrakech. He is also a translator and
Smart, Leah Tether, Ian Thomas, Conrad van Dyk, Vinita journalist, and head of cultural activities at the Institut du
Venugopal, Nikhil Verma, Karen Villabona, Tanvir Zaidi. Monde Arabe.
Proofreader Mohamed Métalsi

Stewart J. Wild. Specializing in town planning and music, Mohamed Métalsi is
director of cultural affairs at the Institut du Monde Arabe in
Indexer Paris. He is the author of many articles and of a book on the
Helen Peters. imperial cities of Morocco (published by Terrail).
Main Contributors Marie-Pascale Rauzier

Rachida Alaoui The historian and journalist Marie-Pascale Rauzier lived in
Rachida Alaoui was born in Morocco. She lives and works Morocco for nine years, during which time she explored
in Paris. After studying the history of art in France, she the Atlas and the Moroccan desert. Besides writing on
specialized in Moroccan fashion, and in Arab fashion in Morocco, she contributed to the launch of Morocco’s first
particular. large-circulation weekly publication. She is also the author
of three books and a CD-Rom on Morocco.
Jean Brignon
A history teacher, Jean Brignon has taught Muslim Additional Contributors
history for 12 years at the University of Rabat. He was Sophie Berger, Carole French, Delphine Pont, Sonia Rocton,
the general editor of Histoire du Maroc, published by Hatier, Sarah Thurin, Sébastien Tomasi, Richard Williams.
and has written many academic works. He is president
of Rives Sud, the cultural tours organizer and leads Picture Research
cultural and other thematic tours in Morocco. Marie-Christine Petit.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS  385
Cartography M. Larossi (Ministère de la Communication in Rabat),

Fabrice Le Goff. Marrakech Médina, M’Barek Bouguemoun (Kasba Dadès), M.
Michel (Derkaoua kasbah-inn, Merzouga), Ministère d’Affaires
Additional Cartography Etrangères in Rabat, Ministère des Eaux et Forêts in Rabat,
Quadrature Créations. Ministère des Habbous, M. Ibrahimi (Office National de
Pêche), Ministère de l’Intérieur in Rabat, M. Laforêt (Les
Illustrations Sablons royal stud), Ministère des Postes et Télé-
François Brosse communications in Rabat, Ministère de Santé in Rabat,
Architectural drawings, Street-by-Street maps and Ministère de Tourisme in Rabat, Ministère des Transports in
drawings on pp72–3, 80–81, 106–7, 118, 176–7, 180–1, Rabat, M. Lahcen, Office National des Aéroports au Maroc,
198–9, 206–7, 208, 240–1, 270–1 and 280–1. Office National des Chemins de Fer in Morocco, Office
National d’Exploitation des Ports in Morocco, M. Oulhaj
Gaëtan du Chatenet (Mosque of Hassan II ), M. Painclou (oyster farm No. 7,
Drawing on pp222–23. Oualidia), Liliane Phan (Gallimard), Madame Michel Pinseau
and her children, Coco Polizzi (medina of Agadir), Radio
Éric Geoffroy Télévision Marocaine, M. Ribi (Sous Massa Nature Reserve),
Illustrations on “Exploring” and “At a Glance” maps, on small Royal Air Maroc, M. Saf (Ministère de l’Information in Rabat),
town and city maps and tour maps on pp66–7, 88–9, 114– Commandant Skali (Mausoleum of Mohammed V), M. Tarik
5, 125, 130–1, 148–9, 155, 164–65, 185, 212–3, 217, 250–1, (Hôtel Anezi, Agadir), M. Tazi (Palais de Fès restaurant, Fès),
253, 266–7, 288–9 and 291. Baudouin de Witte (Élan-Sud, a society for the protection of
the architectural heritage of the Atlas and the Moroccan
Emmanuel Guillon South).
Architectural drawings on pp28–9, 30–1, 52–3 and 105.
Picture Credits
Photography The page number (in bold) is followed, where
Anne Chopin, Ian O’Leary, Jean-Michel Ruiz and Cécile Tréal. necessary, by a letter referring to the position of the
photograph on the relevant page; a-above; b-below/
Additional Photography bottom; c-centre; f-far; l-left; r-right; t-top.
Jean-Michel Ruiz and Cécile Tréal, Rough Guides/Roger 1 Dreamstime.com/Sean Pavone.
Norum, Suzanne Porter. 2-3 Dreamstime.com/Roberto Marinello.
8–9 Réunion des Musées Nationaux/Arnaudet, Fête
Special Assistance Marocaine, André Suréda (1872–1930). Musée des Arts
Taoufiq Agoumy, Babette and François Aillot, A. Akoudad d’Afrique et d’Océanie, Paris.
(tourist officer, Ifrane), Jamal Atbir (Hôtel des Cascades, 10cl Dreamstime.com/Ghm Meuffels.
Imouzzer), Amina Bouabid (Office National Marocain du 11bl Dreamstime.com/Rechitan Sorin.
Tourisme, Paris), Ahmed Derouch (tourist officer, Beni 12tl Dreamstime.com/Danmir12; 12bc Dreamstime.
Mellal), Soraya Eyles, Kadiri Fakir (Ministère des Affaires com/Ed Francissen.
Culturelles, Rabat), M. Hassani, Hôtel Tombouctou 13b Dreamstime.com/Hel080808; 13tr Dreamstime.
(Tinerhir), Ali Lemnaouar (Boumalne du Dadès), Sisi com/Tatjana Keisa.
Mohamed (Hôtel Asmaa, Zagora), M. Mokthari (Fujifilm 14t Dreamstime.com/Harald Biebel; 14bc Dreamstime.
Maroc), Natasha, Georges Philippe (Académie com/Karol Kozlowski.
d’Architecture de Paris), Joël Poitevin (Météo France), 15br Dreamstime.com/Daniel Schreiber; 15tr
Marie-José Taube (Ministère des Affaires étrangères, Paris), Dreamstime.com/Witr
Mohammed Temsamani, Abdelaziz Touri (Ministère des 16tr Dreamstime.com/Javarman.
Affaires Culturelles, Rabat), Adolfo de Velasco, Eric Vo Toan 17t Dreamstime.com/Gunter Hoffmann;17br
(architect of Mausoleum of Mohammed V), Oulya Zwitten. Dreamstime.com/Karol Kozlowski.
20 Alamy Images/Travelwide.
Photography Permissions
Franciscan sisters’ weaving workshop (Midelt), Askaoum inn 24a Corbis Sygma/J. Langevin.
(Taliouine), Kahina inn (Imessouane), André Azoulay (royal 26bl Jacana/PHR/D. Nigel; 26bc Jacana/PHR/ Mc. T.
chamber), Banque d’État du Maroc, M. Belghazi (Musée Hugh; 26bcl Jacana/C. Pissavini; 26br Jacana/M.
Belghazi), M. Bennani, Pierre Berger (Villa Majorelle Gardens), Willemeit; 26bcrJacana/ J.-L. Dubois.
M. Binbin (library of the Palais Royal), M. Bruno (rose- 27cbl Jacana/J.-L. Dubois; 27cra Jacana/Th. Dressler;
distillation factory, El-Kelaa M’Gouna), Amastou campsite 27clbl Jacana/P. Jaunet; 27bc Jacana/C. Nardin; 27br
(Tazarine), CTM, Frederic Damgaard (Galerie Damgaard, Jacana/A. Brosset.
Essaouira), 2M Télévision, Fibule du Draa (Zagora), M. Gérard 34tr Corbis Sygma/M. Attar; 34-5c: A.K.G./J.-L. Nou; 34bl
and Françoise (Ksar Sania, Merzouga), Mahmoud Guinea, M. Dreamstime.com/Razyph; 34br Réunion des Musées
Hamid (royal stud at Bouznika), Hôtel Salam (Taroudannt), M. Nationaux/Arnaudet. Musée des Arts d’Afrique et
Jeannot (Chalet de la Plage restaurant, Essaouira), M. Lahcen, d’Océanie, Paris.
386  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
40–1c Paris Musées/K. Maucotel. Musée des Oudaïas, 68 Robert Harding Picture Library/Tristan Deschamps.
Rabat. 69b Hemispheres Images/Stéphane Frances.
43bc Corbis/EPA/STR. 75tr Alamy Stock Photo/Danita Delimont.
48 J.-L. Josse; Mulay Abd Ar-Rahman, Sultan du Maroc, 76–7 Robert Harding Picture Library/Vincenzo
Sortant de son Palais de Meknès (1845). Musée des Lombardo.
Augustins, Toulouse. 86 Dreamstime.com/Rechitan Sorin.
49br G. Dagli Orti/Musée Leone, Vercelli (Italy). 87b Alamy Images/Marek Zuk.
50tl Philippe Maillard. 92–3 Corbis/Design Pics.
51b Réunion des Musées Nationaux/Arnaudet. Musée 97clal Réunion des Musées Nationaux/Popovitch.
des Arts d’Afrique et d’Océanie, Paris. Musée du Louvre, Paris; 97ca Réunion des Musées
52tr G. Dagli Orti/Bibliothèque Marciana, Venice; 52cral Nationaux/H. Lewandowski. Musée du Louvre, Paris.
Arthephot/Oronoz/Biblioteca Apostolica, Vatican; 52bl 98 Robert Harding Picture Library/Dave Stamboulis.
G. Dagli Orti The Triumph of St Thomas Aquinas Gozzoli 99b Corbis/Tuul & Bruno Morandi.
(v.1420/2-1497). Musée du Louvre, Paris; 52cl Getty 104br Dreamstime.com/Sarra22.
Images/Mondadori Portfolio. 108-9 Robert Harding Picture Library/Gavin Hellier.
53tr Réunion des Musées Nationaux/J. G. Berizzi, Th. Le 112 Dreamstime.com/Javarman.
Mage. Musée des Arts d’Afrique et d’Océanie, Paris; 117tr Anne Chopin; 117b Réunion des Musées
53cr Rapho/R. S. Michaud. Escorial, Madrid; 53br Nationaux/Musée des Arts d’Afrique et d’Océanie,
Réunion des Musées Nationaux/G. Blot, King Boabdil’s Paris.
Farewell to Granada, Alfred Dehodencq (1822–82). 120–1 Corbis/Neil Farrin.
Musée d’Orsay, Paris. 126br Horizon Features/A. Lehalle.
54cr Réunion des Musées Nationaux/Arnaudet. 132 Robert Harding Picture Library/Yadid Levy.
Musée des Arts d’Afrique et d’Océanie, Paris; 54br 133b Dreamstime.com/Typhoonski.
Alamy Stock Photo/World History Archive; 54clb Rex 139cla Photothèque Hachette Seated Arab, Eugène
by Shutterstock/Universal Images Group/PHAS. Delacroix (1798–1863). Musée du Louvre, Paris; 139cra
55tr Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris Eldressi’s map; 55cb G. Artwork and photograph © Succession H. Matisse/
Dagli Orti Azulero Portimao (Portugal); 55br DACS 2015; 139crb Magnum/D. Stock; 139bl G.
Photothèque Hachette. Army Museum, Lisbon. Rondeau. 139br © Flammarion. Hécate et ses Chiens Paul
56br Roger-Viollet; 56tc Philippe Maillard/Musée Morand, Gallimard coll. Folio, 1974 (cover illustration
Numismatique de la Banque du Maroc, Marrakech; 56c by H.P.G. Berthier).
Rex by Shutterstock/Universal History Archive. 140–1 Robert Harding Picture Library/Bruno Morandi.
57tc akg-images/Bernard Bonnefon; 57cb J.-L. Josse/ 146 Robert Harding Picture Library/Bruno Morandi.
Battle of Isly (1844), E. Vernet, known as Horace (1789– 153br Réunion des Musées Nationaux/J.G. Berizzi; Jewish
1867). Musée du Château, Versailles.; 57br Photothèque Festival in Tetouan (c.1848), Alfred Dehodencq (1822–
Hachette/Meurisse. 82). Musée du Judaïsme, Paris.
58–9c Réunion des Musées Nationaux/G. Blot; 156bc Alamy Images/dave stamboulis.
Audience Given in Meknès by the Moroccan Sultan 157tr Alamy Images/Chris Hellier.
Moulay Ismaïl to François Pidou, Chevalier de Saint- 160–1 Getty Images/Dave Stamboulis Travel.
Olon, Ambassador of Louis XIV, on 11 June 1693, Martin 166 Dreamstime.com/Javarman.
Pierre Denis (1663–1742). Château de Versailles and 171tl Corbis/Atlantide Phototravel.
Château du Trianon; 58tr Photothèque Hachette/ 172br Alamy Stock Photo/Boaz Rottem.
Bibliothèque Nationale, Paris; 58cl J.-L. Josse/The 174b Philippe Maillard.
Moroccan Ambassador Mohammed Temin, at the 182–3 Robert Harding Picture Library/Sylvain
Commedia dell’ Arte in Paris (1682), Antoine Coypel Grandadam.
(1661–1722). Musée du Château, Versailles; 58bl 185cl © Actes Sud rights reserved.
Réunion des Musées Nationaux/F. Raux; The Moroccan 188 Dreamstime.com/Vladislav Gajic.
Emperor’s Ambassadors. Château de Versailles and 193br Gamma/Hadjih.
Château du Trianon. 195bl/br Réunion des Musées Nationaux. Musée des
59tc Bridgeman Art Library/Giraudon; Portrait of Anne Arts d’Afrique et d’Océanie, Paris.
Marie of Bourbon, Mademoiselle de Blois (1666–1739). 200–1 Dreamstime.com/Anibal Trejo.
Coll. Lobkowicz, Nelahozeves Castle (Czech Republic). 202c ACR Éditions Les Aïssaouas, Georges Clairin (1843–
60tl Roger-Viollet; .60c Photothèque Hachette; 60bcl 1919) private collection.
Photothèque Hachette; 60br Photothèque Hachette/ 210 SuperStock/Hemis.fr.
Meurisse. 217tr Jacana/S. Cordier.
61crb Roger-Viollet. 218–219 Photoshot: NHPA/Jordi Bas Cas.
62tl Magnum/B. Barbey; 62crb Roger- Viollet; 62bl 220br Réunion des Musées Nationaux/R.G. Ojeda;
Corbis Sygma/M. Attar. Reclining Lion with Prey, Eugène Delacroix (1798–1863).
63tl Corbis Sygma/A. Nogues; 63crb Corbis Sygma/J. Musée Bonnat, Bayonne.
Langevin. 63bl; Corbis Sygma/P. Robert. 223cbl Jacana/M. Bahr. 223crb Jacana/S. Cordier.
64–5 Dreamstime.com/Iryna Sosnytska. 223br Jacana/J. and P. Wegner.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS  387
226 Dreamstime.com/Kemaltaner. 320bl Villa Mandarine.

235tr G. Dagli Orti/Islamic Museum, Cairo, 321tl La Brasserie Bavaroise.
pharaonic village. 322tl Dreamstime.com/Viocara.
236–7 Robert Harding Picture Library/Matthew 323bc Cinema Rif Restaurant; 323tr Mazagan Beach and
Williams-Ellis. Golf Resort.
238tl Dreamstime.com/Denis Kelly. 324br Le Mirage Restaurant.
248 Getty Images/Christian Aslund. 325tr Fes et Gestes Restaurant.
254-5 Robert Harding Picture Library/Wigbert Roth.
326bl Alamy Images/Tibor Bognar.
264 Dreamstime.com/Madd.
329bl Bab Ourika.
274-5 Alamy Images/blickwinkel.
330br Relais & Châteaux Morocco.
281bc Jacana/J.-L. Dubois; 281br Jacana/PHR/S. J.
331t La Gazelle D’Or Morocco.
Collins; 281fbr Jacana/Frédéric.
337bl Réunion des Musées Nationaux/Arnaudet. Musée
286 Robert Harding Picture Library/Vincent Leduc
291tll Photothèque Hachette/ L’Illustration (11 des Arts d’Afrique et d’Océanie, Paris.
September 1911). 346-7 Robert Harding Picture Library/Steve Brockett.
294-5 Robert Harding Picture Library/Bruno Morandi. 348cla 123RF.com/Ionut David.
297tr Jacana/J. Trotignon. 357tl Alamy Stock Photo/Charles O. Cecil.
299bl Photothèque Hachette. 359b iStockphoto.com/evp82.
300-1 Corbis/Bernados. 364tr Alamy Images/Rob Crandall.
302cl La Maison Arabe; 302br Sofitel Rabat Jardin des 365br Alamy Images/Peter Erik Forsberg.
Roses. Front End papers Lbc Dreamstime.com/Kemaltaner;
303br Dar Attamani. Ltc Dreamstime.com/Rechitan Sorin; Lbr Robert
304br Riad d’Or; 304tl Dar Ayniwen. Harding Picture Library/Vincent Leduc; Ltr Robert
305tr La Sultana Hotels. Harding Picture Library/Dave Stamboulis; Rcr
306bl Sofitel Rabat Jardin des Roses. Dreamstime.com/Vladislav Gajic; Rbr Dreamstime.com/
307tr The Repose Luxury Riad. Javarman; Rbc Dreamstime.com/Madd; Rbl Getty
308tr Mazagan Beach and Golf Resort.
Images/Christian Aslund; Rtl Robert Harding Picture
309bl Be Live Hotels & Luabay Hotels.
Library/Tristan Deschamps; Rcl Robert Harding Picture
310bc Dar Roumana.
Library/Dave Stamboulis; Rt Robert Harding Picture
311tr Michlifen Ifrane.
Library/Yadid Levy; Rc Robert Harding Picture Library/
312tl Kasbah du Toubkal.
313br Sofitel Royal Bay Resort. Bruno Morandi; Rclb SuperStock/Hemis.fr.
314br Le Mirage Restaurant; 314cl Nord-Pinus
Restaurant. Cover
315tl Mazagan Beach and Golf Resort. Front and spine: Robert Harding Picture Library/
316cla Alamy Images/Danita Delimont Collection/John Xavier Subias
and Lisa Merrill.
317tl Alamy Images/Kevin Foy;317c PunchStock/ All other images © Dorling Kindersley. For further
PhotoAlto/Jean-Blaise Hall. information see: www.dkimages.com
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388  FURTHER READING
Further Reading
History and Society Cuisine
David Hart, Tribe and Society in Rural Morocco, Robert Carrier, Taste of Morocco, Arrow, London.
Frank Cass, UK and US. Essays on Moroccan
tribes and the Berbers. Anissa Helou, Café Morocco, Conran Octopus, UK
and US.
Donna Lee Bowen and Evelyn A. Early (eds), Paula Wolfert, Couscous and Other Good Foods
Everyday Life in the Muslim Middle East, Indiana from Morocco, HarperCollins, US.
University Press, US. Focusing on Morocco.
Peter Mansfield, The Arabs, Penguin, UK and US. Travel, Biography and Fiction
General history, with a section on Morocco. Paul Bowles, The Sheltering Sky, Penguin, UK; Ecco
Press, US. Let It Come Down, Penguin, UK; Black
Gavin Maxwell, Lords of the Atlas, The Rise and Fall Sparrow Press, US. Collected Stories of Paul Bowles
of the House of Glaoui 1893–1956, Cassell, UK. 1939–76, Black Sparrow Press, US. Midnight Mass,
Peter Owen, UK; Black Sparrow Press, US. On the
Susan Raven, Rome in Africa, Routledge, US and
theme of Westerners in a foreign land, from the
UK. North Africa in Roman times.
best-known writer on Morocco. Their Heads are
Barnaby Rogerson, A Traveller’s History of North Green, Peter Owen, UK. Travel essays. Without
Africa, Windrush, UK; Interlink, US. Readable Stopping, Peter Owen, UK; Ecco Press, US. Bowles’
general history, from the Roman period to the autobiography.
present day. William Burroughs, Naked Lunch, Flamingo, Harper
Collins UK; Grove Press, US. Revolutionary novel of
Natural and Urban Landscapes sexuality and drug addiction, set in Tangier.
Ann and Yan Arthus-Bertrand, Morocco Seen
from the Air, Vendome Press, UK and US, 1994. Anthony Burgess, Earthly Powers, Penguin, UK;
Carroll & Graf, US. The Complete Enderby, Carroll &
Stunning aerial photographs of Morocco.
Graf, US. Tangier in the 1950s.
Jean-Marc Tingaud and Tahar Ben Jelloun,
Medinas: Morocco’s Hidden Cities, Thames & Elias Canetti, The Voices of Marrakesh, Marion
Hudson, UK and US. An intimate glimpse into Boyars, UK. Marrakech near the end of the
the palaces of the imperial cities. Protectorate.
Hugues Demeude, Jacques Bravo and Xavier Esther Freud, Hideous Kinky, Penguin UK, WW
Richer, Morocco, Taschen, Germany. Lavish Norton, US. An English hippy in Marrakech.
photographic survey.
Walter Harris, Morocco That Was, Eland Books, UK.
Observations by The Times correspondent,
Art and Architecture 1890s–1933.
Titus Burkhardt, Art of Islam, Language and
Meaning. Richard Hughes, In the Lap of Atlas, Chatto, UK.
Moroccan tales.
Lisl and Landt Dennis, Living in Morocco, Thames
& Hudson, UK. Lavishly illustrated portrait of the Amin Malouf, Leo the African, Abacus, UK; Leo
domestic environment. Africanus, New Amsterdam, US. Historical novel
about the 15th-century geographer.
James F. Jereb, Arts and Crafts of Morocco, Thames
& Hudson, UK; Chronicle Books, US. Well-
illustrated survey, including a guide to major Moroccan Writing in English
museums in Morocco. Tahar Ben Jalloun, The Sand Child, Hamish
A. Khatabi and M. Sigilmassa, The Splendours of Hamilton UK, Johns Hopkins UP, US. Novel of
Islamic Calligraphy, Thames & Hudson, UK. childhood in southern Morocco.
Richard Parker, A Practical Guide to Islamic Mohammed Choukri, For Bread Alone, I.B. Tauris,
Monuments in Morocco, Baraka Press, US. UK. Volume I of the Rif-born Choukri’s
autobiography.
Flora and Fauna Five Eyes, Black Sparrow Press, US. Stories by five
T. Haltenorth and H. Diller, Heinzel, BA, Field Moroccan writers.
Guide to the Mammals of Africa, Collins, UK. Driss Chraibi, Heirs to the Past, Heinemann, UK and
Fitter and Parslow, The Birds of Britain and Europe US. Semi-autobiographical novel set in post-
with North Africa and the Middle East, Collins, UK. colonial times.
GLOSSARY  389
Glossary
adrar: mountain. emir: personal title meaning “he kasbah: fortified house with a
agadir: collective granary in the who commands”. single crenellated tower, or four
western Atlas. erg: expanse of sand or ridge of crenellated towers, one at each
agdal: large garden, orchard. dunes. corner of the walls.
aguelmane: permanent natural Fassi: inhabitant of Fès. khoubz: bread (usually a circular
lake. fiqh: Islamic legal code. loaf ).
ahidou: collective dance fondouk: in the past, hostelry for khaima: tent made of woven
performed by the Berber tribes travelling merchants, their beasts goat-hair or camel-hair, used by
of the Middle Atlas and eastern of burden and their merchandise. the nomads of the Sahara and
High Atlas. gebs: plaster that can be the semi-nomadic people of
ahwach: collective dance decoratively carved. Also known the Atlas.
performed by villagers of the as stucco. khettara: underground channels
western High Atlas and the gurbi: house of semi-nomadic for the provision of water, along
Anti-Atlas. people, built with mud and whose course wells are sunk.
aïd: festival. branches. Synonymous with foggara.
aït: “son of”, referring to a tribe Gnaoua: religious brotherhood koubba: cube-like building
or the region occupied by this of popular belief originating in crowned by a dome and housing
tribe. black Africa. Followers consider the tomb of a venerated
Ammeln: Berber tribe of the themselves to be the spiritual individual.
Anti-Atlas whose language is descendants of Bilal, an Ethiopian ksar (pl. ksour): fortified village
Chleuh (qv). slave, whom the Prophet surrounded by solid walls set
assif: river or watercourse. Mohammed set free before with towers at the angles.
bab: city gate. making him his muezzin (qv). Lalla: title of respect given to
baraka: divine blessing, which guedra: dance characteristic of women.
is passed down from parent to the Goulimine region of Morocco, maalem: master-craftsman.
child. Baraka is also obtained performed by kneeling women. makhzen: central power, royal
by making a pilgrimage to a Also the large drum that is played authority.
holy shrine. to accompany the dancers. marabout: prestigious head of a
bendir: drum consisting of a Hadith: collection of legends religious brotherhood. By
goatskin stretched over a frame. relating to the life, words and extension, the term also refers to
bled: countryside, village. deeds of the Prophet Mohammed. the tomb of such a holy man.
borj: bastion or tower set at the Hadj: pilgrimage to Mecca. mashrabiyya: wooden
corners of the defensive walls of haik: long woman’s wrap made latticework panel used as a
fortified houses. from a single piece of fabric, screen in front of balconies and
burnous: voluminous woollen worn draped around the body. in the windows of mosques
hooded cloak worn by men. hamada: stony, arid plateau in and houses, to hide those
cadi: religious judge, once having the Sahara. within from view.
the power to impose sharia law. hammam: Turkish bath. méchouar: parade ground at the
caid: chief of a defined territory, hanbel: carpet or blanket woven entrance to a royal palace.
subordinate to the governor of a by Berbers. medersa: Koranic school with
province. Hegira: starting point of the resident students.
caliph: title held by a Muslim Muslim era, on 16 July 622. medina: traditional Arab town
chief, designating Mohammed’s henna: shrub grown for its enclosed by ramparts; from
successor. leaves, which, among other Medina, the city where the
chergui: hot, dry southeasterly things, are used in the Prophet Mohammed found
wind. manufacture of cosmetics. refuge from persecution.
Chikhate: female dancer from igherm: communal fortified mellah: Jewish quarter of a
the Middle Atlas. granary typical of the central medina.
Chleuh: Berber tribe of the Atlas High Atlas. menzah: pavilion in a palace
and Anti-Atlas. Also the language imam: Islamic leader of garden.
spoken by the tribes of these congregational prayer. mihrab: niche in a mosque,
regions. jbel: mountain. indicating the direction of
dahir: decree having the force of jellaba: wide-sleeved, hooded Mecca.
law in Morocco. garment worn by both men and minaret: tower of a mosque
dar: house. women. from the top of which the
dayet: natural lake formed by jemaa: village assembly of the muezzin (qv), or an electric
underground water. heads of families in Berber tribes. recording, calls the faithful
diffa: feast-day meal. kaftan: long woman’s garment to prayer.
dirham: Moroccan unit of secured at the front and minbar: pulpit in a mosque,
currency. decorated with passementerie from which the imam (qv) leads
douar: hamlet. and embroidery. Friday prayers.
390  GLOSSARY
moqqade: head of a village or of reg: stony desert. sherif (pl. shorfa): descendant of
a religious brotherhood. riad: traditional residence the Prophet Mohammed.
Mouloud: birthday of the that is organized around a shorfa: see sherif.
Prophet Mohammed. courtyard planted with trees souk: market, laid out
moussem: important annual and flowers. according to the various
festival involving a pilgrimage to ribat: fortified monastery goods and services that
the tomb of a saint, a commercial from where Muslim warrior the stallholders offer.
fair and popular entertainment. monks set out to spread the sura: verse of the Koran.
muezzin: religious official who Islamic faith. tighremt: Berber word for a
calls the faithful to prayer. seguia: irrigation canal for kasbah (qv). A fortified patriarchal
muqarna: decorative elements distribution of water to crops. house several storeys high with
in the form of stalactites, made of serdal: brightly coloured scarf towers at the corners.
stucco or wood and suspended worn by Berber women,
tizi: mountain pass.
from the ceiling. decorated with coins.
wadi: river bed that is dry or
nisrani: “Nazarene”– a Christian, seroual: loose, calf-length
semi-dry except in rainy season;
or European. trousers fastened at the waist
river; river valley. Anglicized form
pisé: mixture of sun-baked earth, and the knees, worn under the
grit and sometimes straw used as jellaba (qv). of oued.
a building material in rural areas. shamir: long, wide-sleeved zakat: obligatory almsgiving.
qibla: direction of Mecca, man’s shirt worn under another One of the five pillars of Islam.
indicated in mosques by a wall garment. zaouia: seat of a religious
in the centre of which is the sharia: religious law based brotherhood that gives religious
mihrab (qv). on the teachings of the instruction, the shrine where a
Ramadan: ninth month of the Koran. marabout (qv) is buried.
Muslim (lunar) year, during which sheikh: chief of a tribal zellij: geometric tilework,
Muslims are required to fast from subdivision or the leader of a typically arranged in intricate,
sunrise to sunset. religious brotherhood. colourful patterns.
FRENCH PHRASE BOOK  391
French Phrase Book

In Emergency Making a Telephone Call
Help! Au secours! oh sekoor I’d like to place a Je voudrais télé- zhuh voo-dreh fehr
Stop! Arrêtez! aret-ay long-distance call. phoner a l`etranger. uñ añter-oorbañ
Call a Appelez un apuh-lay uñ I’ll try again Je rappelerai zhuh rapel-
doctor! médecin! medsañ later. plus tard. eray ploo tar
Call an Appelez une apuh-lay oon Hold on. Ne quittez pas, nuh kee-tay pah
ambulance! ambulance! oñboo-loñs s’il vous plaît. seel voo play
Call the Appelez la apuh-lay lah Could you speak Pouvez-vous parler poo-vay voo par-
police! police! poh-lees up a little please? un peu plus fort? lay uñ puh ploo for
Call the fire Appelez les apuh-lay leh local call la communication komoonikah-
department! pompiers! poñ-peeyay locale syoñ low-kal
Where is the Où est l’hôpital oo ay l’opeetal luh
nearest hospital? le plus proche? ploo prosh Shopping
How much C’est combien say kom-byañ
Communication Essentials does this cost? s’il vous plaît? seel voo play
Yes Oui wee I would like … je voudrais… zhuh voo-dray
No Non noñ Do you have? Est-ce que vous avez? es-kuh voo zavay
Please S’il vous plaît seel voo play I’m just Je regarde zhuh ruhgar
Thank you Merci mer-see looking. seulement. suhlmoñ
Excuse me Excusez-moi exkoo-zay mwah Do you take Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo
Hello Bonjour boñzhoor credit cards? acceptez les cartes zaksept-ay leh kart
Goodbye Au revoir oh ruh-vwar de crédit? duh kreh-dee
Good night Bonsoir boñ-swar This one. Celui-ci. suhl-wee-see
Morning Le matin matañ That one. Celui-là. suhl-wee-lah
Afternoon L’après-midi l’apreh-meedee expensive cher shehr
Evening Le soir swar cheap pas cher, pah shehr,
Yesterday Hier eeyehr bon marché boñ mar-shay
Today Aujourd’hui oh-zhoor-dwee size, clothes la taille tye
Tomorrow Demain duhmañ
Here Ici ee-see
There Là lah
Sightseeing
What? Quel, quelle? kel, kel art gallery la galerie d’art galer-ree dart
When? Quand? koñ bus station la gare routière gahr roo-tee-yehr
Why? Pourquoi? poor-kwah garden le jardin zhar-dañ
Where? Où? oo mosque la mosquée mos-qay
museum le musée moo-zay
Useful Phrases tourist les renseignements roñsayn-moñ too-
information touristiques, le rees-teek, sandee-
How are you? Comment allez-vous? kom-moñ talay voo office syndicat d’initiative ka d’eenee-syateev
Very well, Très bien, treh byañ, train station la gare gahr
thank you. merci. mer-see
Pleased to Enchanté de faire oñshoñ-tay duh fehr
meet you. votre connaissance. votr kon-ay-sans Staying in a Hotel
See you soon. A bientôt. byañ-toh Do you have a Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo-zavay
Where is/are…? Où est/sont…? oo ay/soñ vacant room? avez une chambre? oon shambr
How far Combien de kom-byañ duh keelo- double room, la chambre à deux shambr ah duh
is it to…? kilomètres d’ici à…? metr d’ee-see ah with double bed personnes, avec pehr-son avek un
Which Quelle est la kel ay lah deer- un grand lit gronñ lee
way to…? direction pour…? ek-syoñ poor twin room la chambre à shambr ah
Do you speak Parlez-vous par-lay voo deux lits duh lee
English? anglais? oñg-lay single room la chambre à shambr ah
I don’t Je ne zhuh nuh kom- une personne oon pehr-son
understand. comprends pas. proñ pah room with a la chambre avec shambr avek
Could you Pouvez-vous parler poo-vay voo par-lay bath, shower salle de bains, sal duh bañ,
speak slowly moins vite s’il mwañ veet seel une douche oon doosh
please? vous plaît? voo play I have a J’ai fait une zhay fay oon
I’m sorry. Excusez-moi. exkoo-zay mwah reservation. réservation. rayzehrva-syoñ
Useful Words Eating Out

big grand groñ Have you Avez-vous une avay-voo oon
small petit puh-tee got a table? table de libre? tahbl duh leebr
hot chaud show I want to Je voudrais zhuh voo-dray
cold froid frwah reserve réserver rayzehr-vay
good bon boñ a table. une table. oon tahbl
bad mauvais moh-veh The check L’addition s’il l’adee-syoñ seel
enough assez assay please. vous plaît. voo play
open ouvert oo-ver I am a Je suis zhuh swee
closed fermé fer-meh vegetarian. végétarien. vezhay-tehryañ
left gauche gohsh menu le menu, la carte men--oo, karto
right droite drwaht breakfast le petit puh-tee
straight ahead tout droit too drwah déjeuner deh-zhuh-nay
near près preh lunch le déjeuner deh-zhuh-nay
far loin lwañ dinner le dîner dee-nay
early de bonne heure duh bon urr
late en retard oñ ruh-tar
entrance l’entrée l’on-tray
Numbers
exit la sortie sor-tee 1 un, une uñ, oon
toilet les toilettes, les WC twah-let, vay-see 2 deux duh
free, no charge gratuit grah-twee 3 trois trwah
Monday lundi luñ-dee 4 quatre katr
Tuesday mardi mar-dee 5 cinq sañk
Wednesday mercredi mehrkruh-dee 6 six sees
Thursday jeudi zhuh-dee 7 sept set
Friday vendredi voñdruh-dee 8 huit weet
Saturday samedi sam-dee 9 neuf nerf
Sunday dimanche dee-moñsh 10 dix dees
392  ARABIC PHRASE BOOK
Moroccan Arabic Phrase Book

Moroccan Arabic is unique to Morocco and is not Shopping
understood by other Arabic speakers. Moroccans speak How much is it? kam else’er?
faster and abbreviate words. Pronunciation is gentler due
I would like… ana ‘habbayt …
to the influence of French.
Do you have? andak…?
In Emergency This one haazi
expensive ghaalya
Help! aawenooni
Stop! owkof! cheap rekheesa
Can you call a doctor? momkin kellem
el tabeeb? Sightseeing
Call an ambulance! aayeto aala el isaaf
art gallery galiree daar
Can you call the police? momkin kellem
el polees? bus station stasyon do boos
Call the fire department! aayeto aala el matafie garden eljonayna
Where is the nearest fin kayn akrab mostashfa mosque masjid
hospital? museum moozi
tourist office mektab soyaa’h
Communication Essentials train station mahattat el tren
Yes na-am beach bhar
No laa guide geed
Please min fadlak
map kaart
Thank you se’hha / shukran
park baark
Excuse me ismahlee
Hello / selaam ticket tekee
Peace be upon you
Goodbye ma’eel salaama Staying in a Hotel
Good evening masaal kheer
Do you have a room? enta ‘andak ghorfa?
Good morning esbe’h elkheer
Yesterday el baareh double room, ghorfa le shakhsayn
Today el yoom with double bed joj bioot
Tomorrow ghadan single room ghorfa le shakhs waa’hid
Here hina with bathroom / shower ma’al ‘ham-maam / doosh
There hinak I have a reservation. ana mereserve hna
What? shnoo?
When? imta?
Eating Out/Food
Why? alash?
Where? fayn? Have you got a table for…? enta ‘andak towla le…?
I want to reserve a table. brit reserve wahd tabla
Useful Phrases The check please. te’eteeni elfatoora min
How are you? washraak? fadlak?
I’m fine. laabas I am a vegetarian. ana nabati wa la akulu
Pleased to meet you. metshar-fin lehoum wala hout
Where is/are…? fayn…?
breakfast iftar
Which way to…? ina terik… ?
Do you speak English? tatkalam engleeze-ya? lunch reda
I don’t understand. ana mafhimtaksh dinner aasha
I’m sorry. esme’hlee steamed pot of tajeen
vegetables with meat, etc.
Useful Words hand-made couscous kuskus
big kbeer pastry filled with vegetables elbasteela
small sgeer and meat, etc.
hot sokhoon soup ‘hreera
cold baared
meatballs with herbs kefta
good mlee’ha
fish el’hoot
bad mashemlee’ha
open maftoo’h chicken djaaj
closed maghlook meat l’hem
left liseer vegetables legoom/khodra
right limeen water maa’a
straight ahead neeshan
near qurayab
far baeed
Numbers
1 waa’hid
entrance dokhool
exit khrooj 2 zooj
toilet towalett 3 tlaata
tonight felleel 4 araba’aa
day nehaar 5 khamsa
hour sa’aa 6 set-ta
week semaana 7 seba’a
Monday el etneen 8 tmaanya
Tuesday el tlaata
9 tes’aa
Wednesday el arbe’aa
Thursday el khamees 10 ‘ashra
Friday el jomo’aa 20 eshreen
Saturday el sabet 50 khamseen
Sunday el a’had 100 meya
Glossary  393
Glossary
adrar: mountain. gebs: plaster that can be koubba: cube-like building
agadir: collective granary in the decoratively carved. Also known as crowned by a dome and housing
western Atlas. stucco. the tomb of a venerated individual.
agdal: large garden, orchard. gurbi: house of semi-nomadic ksar (pl. ksour): fortified village
aguelmane: permanent natural people, built with mud and surrounded by solid walls set with
lake. branches. towers at the angles.
ahidou: collective dance performed Gnaoua: religious brotherhood of Lalla: title of respect given to
by the Berber tribes of the Middle popular belief originating in black women.
Atlas and eastern High Atlas. Africa. Followers consider maalem: master-craftsman.
ahwach: collective dance themselves to be the spiritual makhzen: central power, royal
performed by villagers of the descendants of Bilal, an Ethiopian authority.
western High Atlas and the slave, whom the Prophet marabout: prestigious head of a
Anti-Atlas. Mohammed set free before making religious brotherhood. By
aïd: festival. him his muezzin (qv). extension, the term also refers to
aït: “son of”, referring to a tribe or the guedra: dance characteristic of the the tomb of such a holy man.
region occupied by this tribe. Goulimine region of Morocco, mashrabiyya: wooden latticework
Ammeln: Berber tribe of the Anti- performed by kneeling women. panel used as a screen in front of
Atlas whose language is Chleuh (qv). Also the large drum that is played balconies and in the windows of
assif: river or watercourse. to accompany the dancers. mosques and houses, to hide those
bab: city gate. Hadith: collection of legends within from view.
baraka: divine blessing, which is relating to the life, words and deeds méchouar: parade ground at the
passed down from parent to child. of the Prophet Mohammed. entrance to a royal palace.
Baraka is also obtained by making a Hadj: pilgrimage to Mecca. medersa: Koranic school with
pilgrimage to a holy shrine. haik: long woman’s wrap made resident students.
bendir: drum consisting of a from a single piece of fabric, worn medina: traditional Arab town
goatskin stretched over a frame. draped around the body. enclosed by ramparts; from Medina,
bled: countryside, village. hamada: stony, arid plateau in the the city where the Prophet
borj: bastion or tower set at the Sahara. Mohammed found refuge from
corners of the defensive walls of hammam: Turkish bath. persecution.
fortified houses. hanbel: carpet or blanket woven by mellah: Jewish quarter of a medina.
burnous: voluminous woollen Berbers. menzah: pavilion in a palace
hooded cloak worn by men. Hegira: starting point of the Muslim garden.
cadi: religious judge, once having era, on 16 July 622. mihrab: niche in a mosque,
the power to impose sharia law. henna: shrub grown for its leaves, indicating the direction of Mecca.
caid: chief of a defined territory, which, among other things, are minaret: tower of a mosque from
subordinate to the governor of a used in the manufacture of the top of which the muezzin (qv),
province. cosmetics. or an electric recording, calls the
caliph: title held by a Muslim chief, igherm: communal fortified granary faithful to prayer.
designating Mohammed’s typical of the central High Atlas. minbar: pulpit in a mosque, from
successor. imam: Islamic leader of which the imam (qv) leads Friday
chergui: hot, dry southeasterly congregational prayer. prayers.
wind. jbel: mountain. moqqade: head of a village or of a
Chikhate: female dancer from the jellaba: wide-sleeved, hooded religious brotherhood.
Middle Atlas. garment worn by both men and Mouloud: birthday of the Prophet
Chleuh: Berber tribe of the Atlas women. Mohammed.
and Anti-Atlas. Also the language jemaa: village assembly of the moussem: important annual
spoken by the tribes of these heads of families in Berber tribes. festival involving a pilgrimage to
regions. kaftan: long woman’s garment the tomb of a saint, a commercial
dahir: decree having the force of secured at the front and decorated fair and popular entertainment.
law in Morocco. with passementerie and muezzin: religious official who calls
dar: house. embroidery. the faithful to prayer.
dayet: natural lake formed by kasbah: fortified house with a muqarna: decorative elements in
underground water. single crenellated tower, or four the form of stalactites, made of
diffa: feast-day meal. crenellated towers, one at each stucco or wood and suspended
dirham: Moroccan unit of currency. corner of the walls. from the ceiling.
douar: hamlet. khoubz: bread (usually a circular nisrani: “Nazarene”– a Christian, or
emir: personal title meaning “he loaf ). European.
who commands”. khaima: tent made of woven goat- pisé: mixture of sun-baked earth,
erg: expanse of sand or ridge of hair or camel-hair, used by the grit and sometimes straw used as a
dunes. nomads of the Sahara and the building material in rural areas.
Fassi: inhabitant of Fès. semi-nomadic people of the Atlas. qibla: direction of Mecca, indicated
fiqh: Islamic legal code. khettara: underground channels in mosques by a wall in the centre
fondouk: in the past, hostelry for for the provision of water, along of which is the mihrab (qv).
travelling merchants, their beasts of whose course wells are sunk. Ramadan: ninth month of the
burden and their merchandise. Synonymous with foggara. Muslim (lunar) year, during which
394  Glossary
Muslims are required to fast from shirt worn under another garment. tizi: mountain pass.
sunrise to sunset. sharia: religious law based on the wadi: river bed that is dry or semi-
reg: stony desert. teachings of the Koran.
dry except in rainy season; river;
riad: traditional residence organized sheikh: chief of a tribal subdivision
around a courtyard planted with or the leader of a religious river valley. Anglicized form
trees and flowers. brotherhood. of oued.
ribat: fortified monastery from sherif (pl. shorfa): descendant of zakat: obligatory almsgiving.
where Muslim warrior monks set the Prophet Mohammed. One of the five pillars of Islam.
out to spread the Islamic faith. shorfa: see sherif.
seguia: irrigation canal for crops. souk: market, laid out according to zaouia: seat of a religious
serdal: brightly coloured scarf the various goods and services that brotherhood that gives religious
worn by Berber women, decorated the stallholders offer. instruction, the shrine where a
with coins. sura: verse of the Koran. marabout (qv) is buried.
seroual: loose, calf-length trousers tighremt: Berber word for a kasbah
zellij: geometric tilework,
fastened at the waist and the knees, (qv). A fortified patriarchal house
worn under the jellaba (qv). several storeys high with towers at typically arranged in intricate,
shamir: long, wide-sleeved man’s the corners. colourful patterns.
FRENCH PHRASE BOOK  395
French Phrase Book

In Emergency Making a Telephone Call
Help! Au secours! oh sekoor I’d like to place a Je voudrais télé- zhuh voo-dreh fehr
Stop! Arrêtez! aret-ay long-distance call. phoner a l`etranger. uñ añter-oorbañ
Call a Appelez un apuh-lay uñ I’ll try again Je rappelerai zhuh rapel-
doctor! médecin! medsañ later. plus tard. eray ploo tar
Call an Appelez une apuh-lay oon Hold on. Ne quittez pas, nuh kee-tay pah
ambulance! ambulance! oñboo-loñs s’il vous plaît. seel voo play
Call the Appelez la apuh-lay lah Could you speak Pouvez-vous parler poo-vay voo par-
police! police! poh-lees up a little please? un peu plus fort? lay uñ puh ploo for
Call the fire Appelez les apuh-lay leh local call la communication komoonikah-
department! pompiers! poñ-peeyay locale syoñ low-kal
Where is the Où est l’hôpital oo ay l’opeetal luh
nearest hospital? le plus proche? ploo prosh Shopping
How much C’est combien say kom-byañ
Communication Essentials does this cost? s’il vous plaît? seel voo play
Yes Oui wee I would like … je voudrais… zhuh voo-dray
No Non noñ Do you have? Est-ce que vous avez? es-kuh voo zavay
Please S’il vous plaît seel voo play I’m just Je regarde zhuh ruhgar
Thank you Merci mer-see looking. seulement. suhlmoñ
Excuse me Excusez-moi exkoo-zay mwah Do you take Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo
Hello Bonjour boñzhoor credit cards? acceptez les cartes zaksept-ay leh kart
Goodbye Au revoir oh ruh-vwar de crédit? duh kreh-dee
Good night Bonsoir boñ-swar This one. Celui-ci. suhl-wee-see
Morning Le matin matañ That one. Celui-là. suhl-wee-lah
Afternoon L’après-midi l’apreh-meedee expensive cher shehr
Evening Le soir swar cheap pas cher, pah shehr,
Yesterday Hier eeyehr bon marché boñ mar-shay
Today Aujourd’hui oh-zhoor-dwee size, clothes la taille tye
Tomorrow Demain duhmañ
Here Ici ee-see
There Là lah
Sightseeing
What? Quel, quelle? kel, kel art gallery la galerie d’art galer-ree dart
When? Quand? koñ bus station la gare routière gahr roo-tee-yehr
Why? Pourquoi? poor-kwah garden le jardin zhar-dañ
Where? Où? oo mosque la mosquée mos-qay
museum le musée moo-zay
Useful Phrases tourist les renseignements roñsayn-moñ too-
information touristiques, le rees-teek, sandee-
How are you? Comment allez-vous? kom-moñ talay voo office syndicat d’initiative ka d’eenee-syateev
Very well, Très bien, treh byañ, train station la gare gahr
thank you. merci. mer-see
Pleased to Enchanté de faire oñshoñ-tay duh fehr
meet you. votre connaissance. votr kon-ay-sans Staying in a Hotel
See you soon. A bientôt. byañ-toh Do you have a Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo-zavay
Where is/are…? Où est/sont…? oo ay/soñ vacant room? avez une chambre? oon shambr
How far Combien de kom-byañ duh keelo- double room, la chambre à deux shambr ah duh
is it to…? kilomètres d’ici à…? metr d’ee-see ah with double bed personnes, avec pehr-son avek un
Which Quelle est la kel ay lah deer- un grand lit gronñ lee
way to…? direction pour…? ek-syoñ poor twin room la chambre à shambr ah
Do you speak Parlez-vous par-lay voo deux lits duh lee
English? anglais? oñg-lay single room la chambre à shambr ah
I don’t Je ne zhuh nuh kom- une personne oon pehr-son
understand. comprends pas. proñ pah room with a la chambre avec shambr avek
Could you Pouvez-vous parler poo-vay voo par-lay bath, shower salle de bains, sal duh bañ,
speak slowly moins vite s’il mwañ veet seel une douche oon doosh
please? vous plaît? voo play I have a J’ai fait une zhay fay oon
I’m sorry. Excusez-moi. exkoo-zay mwah reservation. réservation. rayzehrva-syoñ
Useful Words Eating Out

big grand groñ Have you Avez-vous une avay-voo oon
small petit puh-tee got a table? table de libre? tahbl duh leebr
hot chaud show I want to Je voudrais zhuh voo-dray
cold froid frwah reserve réserver rayzehr-vay
good bon boñ a table. une table. oon tahbl
bad mauvais moh-veh The check L’addition s’il l’adee-syoñ seel
enough assez assay please. vous plaît. voo play
open ouvert oo-ver I am a Je suis zhuh swee
closed fermé fer-meh vegetarian. végétarien. vezhay-tehryañ
left gauche gohsh menu le menu, la carte men--oo, karto
right droite drwaht breakfast le petit puh-tee
straight ahead tout droit too drwah déjeuner deh-zhuh-nay
near près preh lunch le déjeuner deh-zhuh-nay
far loin lwañ dinner le dîner dee-nay
early de bonne heure duh bon urr
late en retard oñ ruh-tar
entrance l’entrée l’on-tray
Numbers
exit la sortie sor-tee 1 un, une uñ, oon
toilet les toilettes, les WC twah-let, vay-see 2 deux duh
free, no charge gratuit grah-twee 3 trois trwah
Monday lundi luñ-dee 4 quatre katr
Tuesday mardi mar-dee 5 cinq sañk
Wednesday mercredi mehrkruh-dee 6 six sees
Thursday jeudi zhuh-dee 7 sept set
Friday vendredi voñdruh-dee 8 huit weet
Saturday samedi sam-dee 9 neuf nerf
Sunday dimanche dee-moñsh 10 dix dees
396  arabic phrase book
Moroccan Arabic Phrase Book

Moroccan Arabic is unique to Morocco and is not Shopping
understood by other Arabic speakers. Moroccans speak How much is it? kam else’er?
faster and abbreviate words. Pronunciation is gentler due
I would like… ana ‘habbayt …
to the influence of French.
Do you have? andak…?
In Emergency This one haazi
expensive ghaalya
Help! aawenooni
Stop! owkof! cheap rekheesa
Can you call a doctor? momkin kellem
el tabeeb? Sightseeing
Call an ambulance! aayeto aala el isaaf
art gallery galiree daar
Can you call the police? momkin kellem
el polees? bus station stasyon do boos
Call the fire department! aayeto aala el matafie garden eljonayna
Where is the nearest fin kayn akrab mostashfa mosque masjid
hospital? museum moozi
tourist office mektab soyaa’h
Communication Essentials train station mahattat el tren
Yes na-am beach bhar
No laa guide geed
Please min fadlak
map kaart
Thank you se’hha / shukran
park baark
Excuse me ismahlee
Hello / selaam ticket tekee
Peace be upon you
Goodbye ma’eel salaama Staying in a Hotel
Good evening masaal kheer
Do you have a room? enta ‘andak ghorfa?
Good morning esbe’h elkheer
Yesterday el baareh double room, ghorfa le shakhsayn
Today el yoom with double bed joj bioot
Tomorrow ghadan single room ghorfa le shakhs waa’hid
Here hina with bathroom / shower ma’al ‘ham-maam / doosh
There hinak I have a reservation. ana mereserve hna
What? shnoo?
When? imta?
Eating Out/Food
Why? alash?
Where? fayn? Have you got a table for…? enta ‘andak towla le…?
I want to reserve a table. brit reserve wahd tabla
Useful Phrases The check please. te’eteeni elfatoora min
How are you? washraak? fadlak?
I’m fine. laabas I am a vegetarian. ana nabati wa la akulu
Pleased to meet you. metshar-fin lehoum wala hout
Where is/are…? fayn…?
breakfast iftar
Which way to…? ina terik… ?
Do you speak English? tatkalam engleeze-ya? lunch reda
I don’t understand. ana mafhimtaksh dinner aasha
I’m sorry. esme’hlee steamed pot of tajeen
vegetables with meat, etc.
Useful Words hand-made couscous kuskus
big kbeer pastry filled with vegetables elbasteela
small sgeer and meat, etc.
hot sokhoon soup ‘hreera
cold baared
meatballs with herbs kefta
good mlee’ha
fish el’hoot
bad mashemlee’ha
open maftoo’h chicken djaaj
closed maghlook meat l’hem
left liseer vegetables legoom/khodra
right limeen water maa’a
straight ahead neeshan
near qurayab
far baeed
Numbers
1 waa’hid
entrance dokhool
exit khrooj 2 zooj
toilet towalett 3 tlaata
tonight felleel 4 araba’aa
day nehaar 5 khamsa
hour sa’aa 6 set-ta
week semaana 7 seba’a
Monday el etneen 8 tmaanya
Tuesday el tlaata
9 tes’aa
Wednesday el arbe’aa
Thursday el khamees 10 ‘ashra
Friday el jomo’aa 20 eshreen
Saturday el sabet 50 khamseen
Sunday el a’had 100 meya

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eyewitness travel

Editorial Director Catherine Marquet

The information in every

High Atlas 248

Southern Morocco &

Northern Olives from the Dadès valley Acknowledgments 388

Where to Eat and Drink

Shopping in Morocco 332

Mediterranean Coast &

Meknès & Volubilis 188

Middle Atlas 210 The Mausoleum of

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

Major Cities Coloured thumb tabs

historic imperial cities – Fès,

life are described, as

A country map shows

A woman leaving the zaouia of Sidi bel Abbès

Exploring Marrakech Bab Er

various quarters. The medina, above which rises

For easy reference, the sights

on a map. The main streets,

ASSOUEL Area of Main Map

area. Avenue Mohammed V is the district’s Station

main thoroughfare. Extending Guéliz in the

bus stations and railway

southwest is Hivernage, a verdant quarter

stations and tourist offices

are also shown.

Key Railway Station

1km (0.6 miles) A 0 yards 400

A locator map shows the central

area of each city in its context.

4 Ben Youssef Medersa

8 The Souks pp234–5 TACHINE HO

r Mellah 9 Mouassine Mosque MAMOUNIA

Historic Buildings MIMOUN

3 Chrob ou Chouf Fountain Museums

The only way to explore

6 Koubba Ba’Adiyn 5 Musée de Marrakech SIDI ES SOUHEÏLI

is on foot. The ramparts and

t Palais el-Badi BAB to visitors can be reached by car,

i Bab Agnaou OUTER

churches, historic buildings, museums, Tel (0524) 44 18 93. Open 9am–6pm

parks and historic districts. This Koranic school is not only

All the sights in each city are entrance, together

described individually. Addresses, the Almoravid

This place of worship was built 9Mouassine

hours, admission charges and

information on how to get there

to affirm his devotion to Allah.

114  MOROCCO REGION BY REGION S O U T H E R N AT L A N T I C C O A S T  115

Exploring the Southern Atlantic Coast

illustrated overview of the

Valley. The well-marked road that winds between luxuriant SETTAT

places to visit are numbered

Tlete Sidi Mechra-

and there are useful tips on

Story boxes explore some of

the region’s historical and cultural

All the important towns and

other places to visit are dealt Road Map C3. * 100,000.

with individually. They are

listed in order, following the

numbering given on the