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INSPIRING BEST PRACTICE IN MEDICAL AESTHETICS

SUN SAFETY
Malignant melanoma
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Do fat-dissolving
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DREAM BIG DR RAJ THETHI’S NEW SUPER-CLINIC

July/August 2021 | aestheticmed.co.uk


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IN THIS ISSUE

INSPIRING BEST PRACTICE IN MEDICAL AESTHETICS


58

SUN SAFETY
Malignant melanoma
education

DISAPPEARING ACT
Do fat-dissolving
injections work?

DREAM BIG DR RAJ THETHI’S NEW SUPER-CLINIC

July/August 2021 | aestheticmed.co.uk

EDITORIAL
Georgia Seago, Editor
E: georgia@aestheticmed.co.uk
T: +44 (0) 20 3728 9063

Vicky Eldridge, Consultant Editor


E: vicky@aestheticmed.co.uk
T: +44 (0) 7931 924 322

ADVERTISING
Jack Diamond
E: jack@aestheticmed.co.uk
T: +44 (0) 207 349 4792

MARKETING
Jennifer Shutter
E: jennifer@aestheticmed.co.uk
T: +44(0)203 841 7361
July/August
PUBLISHER
Mark Moloney
E: mark@aestheticmed.co.uk
T: +44(0) 207 349 4790

DESIGN AND PRODUCTION 6 EDITORIAL BOARD


Alex Charlton-Roberts
alex.c@professionalbeauty.co.uk Meet our editorial advisory board
Daniel Parker 45
daniel@professionalbeauty.co.uk 10 NEWS
Jaqui Palmer The latest news from the industry
Jaqui@professionalbeauty.co.uk
20 WORKPLACE POLICIES
PRINTING Employment lawyer Tina Chander on
Buxton Press
the workplace policies to introduce
buxtonpress.com
post-pandemic
SUBSCRIBE
Annual subscription UK: Print £44, 26 OPERATIONS MANAGEMENT
DD £39.50, Digital £10. Phil Elder shares tips on optimising your
Europe: £59; outside Europe: £67.50. operations management in clinic
To receive your copy of Aesthetic Medicine
every month call 01371 851875 or see 29 ASK ALEX
escosubs.co.uk/aestheticmedicine
Clinic marketing expert Alex Bugg answers
The publisher accepts no responsibility your questions
for any advertiser whose advertisement is
published in Aesthetic Medicine. Anyone 30 CLINIC PROFILE
dealing with advertisers must make their AM editorial board member Dr Raj Thethi
own enquiries. tells us all about his new clinic

Professional Beauty Group


25 Allington House, High Street
Wimbledon Village, SW19 5DX

2 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


CONTENTS

36 FAT-DISSOLVING INJECTIONS
Dr Maeve Kenningham explores the safety
and efficacy of Aqualyx 26

45 MALIGNANT MELANOMAS
An in-depth educational update on
malignant melanomas by Dr Ana Mansouri

54 SIGNATURE TREATMENTS
Dr Joshua Van der Aa explains how he
created his signature injectable brow lift

58 LIP LIFTS
Mr Naveen Cavale discusses the surgical lip
lift as an alternative to repeated filler

61 TREATMENT REVIEW
We try a new device-based facial at 111SKIN

62 PRODUCT NEWS
The latest product launches
20
68 CASE STUDY
Combining RF microneedling and minimally
invasive liposuction with Dr Judy Todd

73 CASE STUDY
Dr Martin Kinsella shares the results of PLLA
collagen-stimulant Lanluma X for buttocks
enhancement

78 CASE STUDY
Dr Aamer Khan presents an injectable hand
lift on a patient in her 50s

WELCOME TO THE JULY/AUGUST ISSUE OF AESTHETIC MEDICINE


I think this issue really demonstrates achievement and advancement in the field of medical
aesthetics. First, I’m proud to profile Dr Raj Thethi’s exciting new clinic in Leeds (pages 30-33),
having witnessed his star rise in the industry while he has remained humble and truly focused on
caring for his patients. Secondly, Dr Ana Mansouri looks at just how far dermatology has come in
understanding, detecting and preventing malignant melanomas in her in-depth clinical article
on pages 45-51. Lastly, this issue features three impressive case studies that show the incredible
capabilities of our technologies and treatments, spanning non-surgical face lifts (pages 68-69),
a safe, injectable alternative to dangerous BBL surgery (pages 73-74); and hand rejuvenation, an
area in which ageing is difficult to treat (pages 78-80). Here’s to continued brilliance.

Georgia – Editor
georgia@aestheticmed.co.uk

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EDITORIAL ADVISORY BOARD

Meet the
experts DR NICK LOWE
Dr Nick Lowe is a consultant
DR ULIANA GOUT
Dr Uliana Gout is the founder of
The Aesthetic Medicine editorial board dermatologist at Cranley Clinic,
London and clinical professor
London Aesthetic Medicine Clinic
& LAM Academy. She is president
includes some of the leading names of Dermatology at UCLA School
of Medicine, Los Angeles. He is
of the British College of Aesthetic
Medicine (BCAM) and sits on
in aesthetics. Their clinical expertise a Fellow of the Royal College of
Physicians, American Academy of
the Board of Trustees. She also
acts as a BCAM Appraiser for the
and diverse range of specialties Dermatology and American Society
of Laser Medicine and Surgery.
GMC. She sits on the Board of
the International Peeling Society.
help ensure the magazine meets the He has authored more than 450 She has co-authored numerous
clinical and research publications, medical textbooks.
needs of its readers 15 scientific and five educational
books.

DR SOPHIE SHOTTER DR STEVEN HARRIS DR SHIRIN LAKHANI DR RAJ THETHI


Dr Sophie Shotter is the founder Dr Steven Harris has been Dr Shirin Lakhani has an extensive Dr Raj Thethi graduated from Leeds
and medical director of Illuminate practising aesthetic medicine at background in medicine, having University Medical School in 2013,
Skin Clinic in Kent. In 2019, she was his clinic in North London worked both in general practice having completed an additional BSc
invited to join the Allergan faculty since 2004 and has gained and in a hospital environment. She (Hons) 1st Class Degree in Anatomy.
board, having been mentored by an international reputation is also a trained anaesthetist. In On completion of his surgical training
Dr Mauricio de Maio. She is also for producing natural looking 2013 she founded Elite Aesthetics in the Yorkshire Deanery he qualified
on the board of the International results. His original approach in Kent. She also practices from the as a Member of the Royal College
Association for the Prevention and techniques include Facial renowned Cranley Clinic in London. of Surgeons (Edinburgh). He has
of Complications in Aesthetic Reshaping with Myomodulation She has a specialist expertise completed a Level 7 accredited
Medicine (IAPCAM). In 2017, she and the Nonsurgical Lip Lift (NLL). in intimate health and appears course in Aesthetic Medicine.
won Businesswoman of the Year Dr Harris is also a trainer and regularly on television and in the He is also a trainer for Teoxane and
at the Kent Women in Business educator. press as well as speaking at medical founder of Yorkshire Skin Centre.
awards. conferences worldwide.

MR ALI GHANEM DIJA AYODELE EMMA DAVIES DR YASMIN SHAKARCHY


Mr Ali Ghanem is a consultant Dija Ayodele is an aesthetician and Emma Davies has specialised in Dr Yasmin Shakarchy practices
aesthetic plastic surgeon and founder of West Room Aesthetics aesthetic medicine since 1998. She dentistry and facial aesthetics in
clinical senior lecturer in plastic, in London and the award-winning was a committee member on the Solihull and Birmingham. Having
reconstructive and aesthetic educational platform Black Skin RCN Aesthetic Nurses Forum from completed her dentistry training at
surgery at Barts and the London Directory (BSD). Her clinic is a 2000-2010; founder member and the University of Birmingham, she
School of Medicine & Dentistry, go-to destination for patients of secretary of the British Association became a Member of the Faculty
as well as visiting professor and colour seeking skin rejuvenation of Sclerotherapists (2003-2010) of Dental Surgery (MFDS Ed) and
head of department of Aesthetic treatments and advice for their and founder member and past received a PG certificate in aesthetic
Medicine at the College of Medicine skincare needs. She speaks chair of the British Association of and restorative dentistry. She was
and Dentistry, Ulster University. regularly at both industry and Cosmetic Nurses (2010-2014). the national dental ambassador for
He is qualified in Medical Law consumer events and in 2019 She is currently clinical director Jamie Oliver’s Sugar Smart campaign
and Ethics, Surgical Science and launched a pioneering sunscreen of Save Face. and won Best Young Dentist 2018
Developmental and Stem Cell campaign for black skin. and 2020 for the Midlands at The
Biology. Dentistry Awards.

6 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


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NEWS AND ANALYSIS

AM Live going ahead as planned May 2021. Step 3 allows business events with larger space, there will be much wider aisles
Following the Government’s 1,000 visitors or 50% of a venue’s capacity on the exhibition show floor, temperature
announcement that it is to push back the to take place. For the first time, Aesthetic checks outside the venue, mandatory
easing of remaining coronavirus restrictions Medicine Live will take place in the National wearing of face masks inside the venue at all
in England, Aesthetic Medicine Live will Hall at Olympia London. This is a fantastic times, and socially distanced seating within
continue as planned on 8-9 July 2021. The new venue for the show which will allow for the conference, Business Workshops and
show will follow the guidelines for events in more space around the exhibition floor, Demo Theatre. We look forward to welcoming
Roadmap Step 3 released on Monday, 17 ensuring a comfortable visit. In addition to a the industry back together under one roof.

German PIP safety body found liable in landmark case, must award victims compensation
A French appeal court has ruled that thousands of victims of the PIP the victims involved in the case. This includes 540 British women,
breast implant scandal are to be compensated. some of which still have the implants in place because they can’t
10 years after the TUV1 case was brought, German safety body afford to have them removed or replaced. The court also upheld an
TUV Rheinland, which issued safety certificates for the faulty breast earlier judgement of negligence by TUV.
implants manufactured by French company Poly Implant Prothèse It emerged in 2010 that the faulty implants were filled with
(PIP), has been found liable and will now have to fully compensate industrial-grade silicone that was not safe or cleared for human
use. PIP was then liquidated, but the faulty
implants had been in manufacture since
2001. Many of the implants ruptured, causing
the silicone to leak into the body and cause
often debilitating side effects and illnesses.
Up to 400,000 women worldwide are
thought to have received the implants.
BAAPS (British Association of Aesthetic
Plastic Surgeons) president Mary O’ Brien
said to the BBC: “The human cost and
distress to many women and their families
following surgery involving PIP implants
is sobering.” The Association supported
the development of the International
Collaboration of Breast Registry Activities
(ICOBRA), which provides guidance for
national registries and which the NHS Breast
and Cosmetic Implant Registry is part of.

10 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


INDUSTRY NEWS

First ready–to–use toxin recieves European approval BCAM to launch new logo
and website
is based on the data The British College of Aesthetic
from two trials including Medicine (BCAM) will reveal its new
one study in which more logo and website on 8 July via Zoom.
than 50% of patients Members including Dr Rita Rakus will
demonstrated effects share memories of the early days of the
within two to three College, and president Dr Uliana Gout will
days.1 An effect was also speak at the virtual event. Following
demonstrated for up the logo reveal guests will have a virtual
to six months.1 One “tour” of the new website, which BCAM
month after injection, says will “completely modernise” its
85.2% of patients were online event booking, payments and
either “satisfied” or “very member sign-ups.
satisfied” compared to
9% for placebo patients.1 Award win for Noon Aesthetics
“At Galderma we Clinical skincare brand Noon Aesthetics
Alluzience, a new BoNT-A neuromodulator pride ourselves on developing innovative has been awarded Most Outstanding
from Galderma, has become the first ready- products that meet today’s needs, which Aesthetic and Skincare Specialist of
to-use toxin approved for use in Europe. is underpinned by our longstanding the Year in the 2021 Global Excellence
National approval processes will now take knowledge and heritage in dermatology,” Awards by Global Health and Pharma
place for the product after it received a said Alexandre Brennan, head of Galderma’s Magazine. The brand was commended
positive decision from its European global business unit for aesthetics. “We know for redefining skin treatment efficacy and
approval procedure. how advantageous it is for doctors to have safety thanks to its DermShield product
Unlike all other BoNT-A wrinkle relaxants access to a ready-to-use liquid formulation formula. The brand has also developed
currently approved in Europe that come in in Alluzience. It’s for this reason that [this] an e-learning academy to support
powder form and require reconstitution with is an important milestone for both patients practitioners through webinars, online
sodium chloride before use, Alluzience is a and healthcare professionals.” courses and digital tools.
ready-to-use formulation. Galderma says 1. Ascher B, Rzany B, Kestemont
this avoids any calculations and allows for P, et al. Liquid Formulation of iS Clinicial looks for world stars
more precision, meaning that the product AbobotulinumtoxinA: A 6-Month, Phase Harpar Grace, distributor of clinical
has the potential to improve safety and 3, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo skincare brand iS Clinical, has
dosing accuracy compared with powder- Controlled Study of a Single Treatment, announced the launch of the iS Clinical
form BoNT-A preperations. Ready-to Use Toxin for Moderate-to- World Star Contest 2021. The contest
Alluzience is intended for the treatment of Severe Glabellar Lines. Aesthet Surg J. will select one account partner from the
frown lines. The European authorisation 2020;40(1):93–104. UK and one from Ireland based on the
highest growth and revenue achieved
with iS Clinical. There will also be one
Premier Star winner; the account partner
Younger patients spending more on aesthetic treatments with the highest overall qualifier metrics
Patients aged under 40 globally. Prizes include flights and
are contributing more to accommodation at the awards ceremony
aesthetic treatment sales in the US in 2022, VIP education training
in 2021 compared to those and products.
aged over 60, found data
from Guidepoint Qsight. IAPCAM returns for 2021
In March and April 2021, IAPCAM (International Association
spending by patients for Prevention of Complications in
aged under 40 increased Aesthetic Medicine) will return with its
by 70% compared to the annual conference on 3 September
same months in 2019 (as 2021 at Church House in London.
a pre-pandemic baseline). The Association’s global faculty of
Conversely, treatment KOLs will present and comment on
sales by patients over 60 key topics in the management and
decreased by 6%. avoidance of classic and current areas of
The data company has complications. The event will take place
collected point-of-sale both in person and online on a new virtual
and survey data from hundreds of clinics in the US since 2007 and gives insight into near- conference platform, where delegates
real-time data. Overall, treatment sales grew 27% in March and 14% in April compared to the will be able to ask questions through the
same months in 2019, with non-surgical skin tightening and toxin injections experiencing the live chat function. Attendance packages
highest increases, at 36% and 32% respectively. start at £75 for a virtual pass.

aestheticmed.co.uk Aesthetic Medicine 11


NEWS AND ANALYSIS

Mesoestetic launches new Sun safety knowledge worryingly lacking in the US


website A third of Americans failed a basic
Aesthetic product and treatment quiz on sun exposure, with young
brand Mesoestetic has launched its adults faring the worst. The survey,
new website, mesoestetic.co.uk. The from the American Academy of
website is designed to be faster, easier Dermatology (AAD), was designed
to navigate and more user-friendly than to measure the level of sun-safety
before, giving better access to company knowledge of the population.
information, case studies, information on Generation Z (those born after
products and treatments and upcoming 1996) demonstrated the lowest
launches. “We endeavour to provide our level of awareness about the
client partners with the most accurate, dangers of sun exposure. 42%
up-to-date information and share our were unaware that tanning can
knowledge and expertise in the field of cause skin cancer, while 41% didn’t know is safe as long as you don’t burn; and 47%
medical aesthetics,” said the brand. that ultraviolet rays are reflected by snow, either believed or were unsure as to whether
water and sand. 33% didn’t think they could having a “base tan” prevents burning in
Lynton appoints Mr Ali Ghanem get sunburn on a cloudy day. the sun.
Lynton has announced plastic surgeon Millennials (those born between 1981 “These are striking results when it comes
Mr Ali Ghanem as its latest KOL for the and 1996) didn’t do much better. 37% to younger generations’ knowledge about
DEKA SmartXide CO2 laser device. didn’t know that tanning can cause skin basic sun exposure,” said Dr Kenneth
“SmartXide is a device that allows cancer, and 23% didn’t believe that sunburn Tomecki, president of AAD. “Gen Z and
medical practitioners to perform both increases the risk of developing skin Millennials have a lifetime of potential
invasive and non-invasive dermatological cancer. More than half of the entire survey damaging sun exposure ahead of them, so
procedures alongside surgical population (1,000 adults) didn’t know that now is the time to close the knowledge gap
applications,” he said. Lynton has also shade can protect them from the sun’s and ensure they are aware of how easy it is
created a new Microneedling Masterclass harmful rays, 35% believed that tanning to practice sun-safe behaviour.”
for its latest microneedling device,
EPN Pen, a combined microneedling
and electroporation device. For more
information: lynton.co.uk/training More than half of UK men use partners’ skincare products
Fillmed parent company joins five biggest concerns dry skin (41%),
plastic pollution fight dark circles under the eyes (35%),
KRESK Group, parent company of dermal acne/acne scars (27%), ageing/fine
filler and aesthetic treatment brand lines (26%) and blackheads/enlarged
Fillmed, is sponsoring sailor François pores (26%).
Gabart in his work fighting plastic For the men that regularly use
pollution over the next four years, having their own skincare products, almost
aquired Gabart’s new trimaran boat. 50% said the amount of time and
The first joint project, Kresk4Oceans, money they spend on their routine
will implement awareness-raising and has increased over the past five
education operations around plastic years. Four in five men (82%) say
pollution and will finance scientific they spend up to £50 a month on
projects in the field of recycling and the More than half of men in the UK admit to specialist skincare products.
development of new eco-responsible using their partner’s skincare products Psychotherapist Sarah Lee, who
materials. without them knowing, revealed a new worked with Clarins on the survey, said:
study by skincare brand Clarins. In the “Traditionally, ‘masculinity’ has had a very
Cosmeselect adds to portfolio recent survey of 1,000 men in the UK, 56% narrow, heteronormative definition. For
Aesthetics distribution company said they were guilty of “stealing” their some men, secretly using their partner’s
Cosmeselect has been appointed as partner’s products to help with their skincare moisturiser is a lot easier than recognising,
exclusive distributor for MCCM Medical concerns, while more than one in ten (14%) challenging and deconstructing societal
Cosmetics. The pharmaceutical skincare owned up to using their other half’s products norms. Men’s ability to express their identity
brand’s product portfolio includes every day, and 19% admitted that they use (or emotions) freely is generally helpful,
peels, mesotherapy cocktails and their partner’s products “often”. however it becomes problematic when it’s
homecare. “Our selection of products When asked about their own skincare based on unrealistic expectations such
is used by award-winning doctors... routines, the survey revealed that men are as filtered images or feeling the need to
sourcing the most effective products most likely to use moisturiser, cleanser, eye conform to certain body types or looks. We
that show significant improvements in cream and spot treatment. In addition, it was need diverse role models, and we need to
the treatment of specific face and body discovered that 90% of men have at practice being less judgmental towards
conditions,” said Cosmeselect founder least one skincare insecurity, with the top our bodies.”
Aminah Aboud.

12 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


A NATURAL LOOK IS
AN EXACT
SCIENCE

Patients today want a filler that naturally integrates into their tissue, so that
they can retain their identity and express their emotions with confidence1.

BELOTERO® Balance is indicated for the


correction of moderate lines, such as: nasolabial • Natural Integration1,2
folds, glabellar and perioral lines so patients can
feel empowered with natural-looking results2.
• Natural Movement3

• Your Own Artistry

merz-aesthetics.co.uk Merz Pharma UK Ltd, 2 Ground Floor Suite


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@merzaesthetics.uki Hempstead, Hertfordshire HP2 4TZ

BALANCE Merz Aesthetics UK & Ireland


MERZ AESTHETICS is a registered trademark
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References
1 Prager W et al. J Drugs Dermatol. 2017; 16(4): 351-357 Adverse events should be reported. Reporting forms and information for United Kingdom
2 Micheels P et al. J Clin Aesth Derm. 2015; 8(3): 28-34 can be found at www.mhra.gov.uk/yellowcard. Reporting forms and information for
3 Kerscher M et al. Clin Cosm Inv Dermatol. 2017;10:239-247 Republic of Ireland can be found at https://www.hpra.ie/homepage/about-us/report-an-
issue/mdiur. Adverse events should also be reported to Merz Pharma UK Ltd at the address
above or by email to UKdrugsafety@merz.com or on +44 (0) 333 200 4143.

M-BEL-UKI-1184 Date of Preparation June 2021


NEWS AND ANALYSIS

Aesthetic practitioners send


open response to JCCP
regarding its 10–Point Plan THE JCCP’S 10
A group of over 100 doctors, nurses and
dentists from the field of aesthetics have POINT PLAN
come together to issue a response to
The Joint Council For Cosmetic Practitioners is an organisation working
the JCCP (Joint Council for Cosmetic closely with government and national bodies seeking greater regulation
Practitioners) in reference to its 10-Point on non-surgical aesthetic treatments and hair restoration surgery in the
UK. Our ultimate aim is to create a safer environment for members of
Plan, released in March. The Plan is a the public undergoing non-surgical treatments with mandated
framework of recommended actions qualifications, premises criteria, insurance and many other steps relating
to the sector and industry. Our 10 Point Plan lays out the campaigns we
towards regulation and a monitored, safer carry out and the goals we seek.
environment for the practise of non-
surgical aesthetic procedures, including STATUTORY REGULATION
1 Seek and advise on statutory regulation for the non-
hair restoration. (See infographic opposite
surgical aesthetics and hair restoration surgical sector.
for the 10-Point Plan in brief).
Represented by Dr Steven Land, director MANDATORY EDUCATION AND TRAINING STANDARDS
of Novellus Aesthetics, Ness Griffiths, 2 Government and education/training regulators in the UK to
aesthetic nurse practitioner at Novellus mandate specific qualifications, education and training
requirements for specific modalities.
Aesthetics; and Dr Tapan Patel, director
of Phi Aesthetics, the response addresses CLEAR, TRANSPARENT, INFORMATION
3 Aesthetic service providers to clearly display simple,
each point individually and summarises informative guides on all services provided including risks,
“the general feelings about this plan from benefits, costs, qualifications, and insurance to members of
those operating within the sector”. The main the public.

body of the letter reads as follows:


DEFINITION OF MEDICAL AND COSMETIC TREATMENTS
4 Work with Government agencies to clearly define in law
1. Statutory regulation: what constitutes a ‘medical’, a ‘medically-related’ treatment
and what is ‘cosmetic’ only.
“We would start out by pointing out that
those we feel should be injecting – doctors, SAFE AND ETHICAL PRESCRIBING
dentists and nurses – are already mandated 5 Implement robust standards and regulation for safe,
to be on a statutory register. Entry onto ethical and professional prescribing within non-surgical
aesthetics.
these registers compels them to ‘follow best
practice guidance’; ‘comply with standards of MORE REGULATED ADVERTISING AND SOCIAL MEDIA
6 Tighter controls and penalties on exaggerated, inaccurate
proficiency’; ‘provide treatments safely’ and
and misleading advertising and social media posts in
‘possess (any) insurance cover’. It is our belief relation to aesthetic treatments, hair restoration and
that legislation restricting practice to the training.
aforementioned groups would solve many of
these problems in one go and thus this point NATIONAL COMPLICATIONS REPORTING
7 Introduce enhanced and co-ordinated processes for the
does not actually go far enough. reporting and analysis of adverse incidents at a national
“Lobbying and exerting political influence level.
to this end would be a more useful effort ADEQUATE INSURANCE COVER
8
than trying to set up another compulsory Legislate all cosmetic non-surgical aesthetics and hair
restoration surgical practitioners to hold robust and
register when it is not needed and would, in adequate indemnity insurance covering each service
fact, be a huge leap forward in making the provided.
whole industry safer. Working with these
regulatory bodies – NMC, GMC and GDC – to LICENSING OF PREMISES, TREATMENTS AND
9 PRACTITIONERS
encourage them to take aesthetic medicine Set nationally agreed standards for licensing and
more seriously as a speciality and develop regulating premises, treatment procedures and
individuals.
their own guidelines and policies would be
welcomed by everyone in the sector.” RAISING CONSUMER AWARENESS
10 Raise public awareness of the risks and benefits
associated with non-surgical treatments and hair
2. Mandatory education and restoration surgery.
training standards:
“Much in this point is to be applauded
– working to raise the training and
educational standards within aesthetic
medicine is paramount. We would
point out that restricting the practice of
aesthetic medicine to doctors, dentists
and nurses would solve a lot of the issues
around maintaining competence and
being registered on a PSA register would
add the proposal of working with these

14 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


NEWS SPECIAL

registers to ban their members from training (again, restricting aesthetic medicine to
those unqualified to undertake medical medics would solve this problem).”
procedures.”
7. National complications reporting:
3. Clear, transparent information: “We agree that making dermal fillers
“Again, much to be recommended in this prescription-only devices should lead to an
point – and again all of this would be covered increase in complication reporting, especially
under the duties expected by the relevant if this is made easier with an online reporting
registering bodies of doctors, dentists and form or app. Pushing for regulation around
nurses. Restrict practice to these groups, work medical devices (which have notoriously poor
with their registering bodies for clear guidance vigilance) may be easier as it removes the
on aesthetic medicine for their members, requirement for reclassification and would
and a regulatory framework to prevent poor improve the safety of medicine as a whole.”
practice already exists.”
8. Adequate insurance cover:
4. Definition of medical and “Another laudable aim, entirely covered by
cosmetic treatments: making aesthetic medicine practice-able only
“This is a point that we have issue with. We by medics. Membership of our respective
would contest that any procedure using a mandatory registers makes us compelled to
prescription-only medicine or a class-three have adequate insurance for the fields within
implantable medical device is medical. It may which we practice.”
also be cosmetic as the two are not mutually
exclusive, and to try and set such distinction 9. Licensing of premises, treatments
is unfair (as a comparison, we would point and practitioners:
out that the majority of breast augmentation “This point and its objectives go a long way
surgery (using an implantable medical device) toward making the field of aesthetic medicine
is for cosmetic reasons but is also self- more regulated and safer for the patient.
evidently medical). Licensing of premises to ensure they meet
“The recently published WHO ICD-11 basic requirements, details of the treatments
classifies everything we treat with botulinum carried out and the details of the practitioners
toxin and dermal filler to be a disease. working there, and their regulatory bodies,
Aesthetic medicine is considered a medical prescribers and qualifications would seem
speciality in its own right in other countries so obvious that we suspect most members
and restricted to medical practitioners – and of the public would be surprised to find out it
it should be so in this country, too.” doesn’t already happen.”

5. Safe and ethical prescribing: 10. Raising customer awareness:


“Again, much to be commended in this point “Any proposal to raise public awareness of
– particularly the objectives of publishing aesthetic medicine, its benefits and its risks
details of practitioners’ prescribers (perhaps is to be applauded. The availability of reliable
as part of the licensing scheme mentioned in information is key to safe decision making
Point 9) and the proposal that all prescribing by our patients – knowing what procedures
professionals are allowed to obtain stock for are available, safe and well-evidenced, and
emergency purposes – both of which would which practitioners can be relied upon to do
increase safety for our patients. right by them, is paramount to the safety of
“We would also add that working with the our patients and the continued success and
GMC, GDC and NMC to adopt the 2019 growth of aesthetic medicine as a speciality.”
GPharmC guidance on not prescribing for The authors added: “As general points we
non-medical professionals in the field of would like to say we have issues with the
aesthetic medicine would be welcomed by impartiality of the APPG for beauty, aesthetics
advocates of patient safety.” and wellness. It is funded by the beauty
industry and previous public meetings have
6. More regulated advertising and shown they have little understanding of the
social media: medical aesthetics field and the complexities
“Again, nothing here to argue with, suffice to contained therein. We believe that closer ties
say that current rules and regulations need with the current regulatory bodies for doctors,
to be more strictly enforced to ensure a dentists and nurses are key relationships
level playing field. As fillers are considered a for moving the safety of aesthetic medicine
medical treatment by their regulatory bodies, forward – many of the points covered in this
medical practitioners are not allowed to document should be being regulated by these
do any sort of offer, whereas non-medical bodies for their members yet are seemingly
practitioners are free to do what they will ignored, even when concerns are reported.”

aestheticmed.co.uk Aesthetic Medicine 15


advancedtechnology,affordableprices,nocompromiseonspecification

– charlotteward,nurseandclinicaldirector,
orchardleaaesthetics
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POLICIES

Follow the
rules
Employment lawyer Tina Chander breaks
down some workplace policies worth
introducing post–pandemic

ith the impact the pandemic FLEXIBLE WORKING POLICY roles which cannot work from home, if any

W has had on all businesses,


it’s important to update your
workplace policies to reflect
This policy will look to provide employees
with greater flexibility in their working
arrangements through being able to request
• The arrangements for working from home
• How to apply for home working and the
factors considered in deciding if it
these changes to working life so staff changes to their regular and contractual is allowed
know where they stand, and so that you work pattern. Matters which should be • Confirmation of what equipment will be
as an employer have provided necessary included within this policy are as follows: needed and if this will be supplied by
guidance about the new rules you expect • Examples of what flexible working changes the business
them to adhere to. These policies will also can be requested by employees, e.g. changes • A reminder on data protection and
likely provide a level of comfort to the to their hours, their days or their location confidentiality
workforce who will recognise the business is of work • Links to the flexible working policy for if a
responding sensibly and proactively to the • Confirmation of who will be eligible to make permanent change is desired
ongoing crisis. a formal flexible working request (i.e. must • A reminder to comply with the Health
have been employed for a period of at least 26 and Safety policy and any additional
CORONAVIRUS POLICY weeks/ cannot have made a flexible working considerations when working from home,
This policy will look to address the ways request in the last 12 months). For those not e.g. not meeting customers at home,
the business has adapted as a result of eligible, there should be guidance as to how sticking to working patterns, etc.
coronavirus in order to reduce the spread they can make an informal request
of the virus and ensure the welfare of staff • The process for how an employee should TINA CHANDER
is maintained during any future outbreaks. make a flexible working request Tina Chander is a
Matters which you may want to include • The factors the business will use to decide partner and head of the
employment law team at
within this policy are: whether to allow the flexible working request,
Midlands law firm Wright
• Amendments to the Sickness Absence i.e. the eight business reasons which may lead Hassall. She deals with
Policy (e.g. to comply with Government to a rejection contentious and non-
guidelines for isolation) • The process for how an employee can appeal contentious employment
• Amendments to the Flexible Working the decision. law issues, acting for
Policy (e.g. to comply with working from employers of all sizes from
home requirements/ to address those HOMEWORKING POLICY small businesses to large
national and international
wishing to isolate/ to assist those using This will set the parameters of when the
businesses, advising on all
public transport to adapt work hours business will allow home working and any aspects of employment
• Amendments to the Annual Leave Policy specific requirements. Matters which should tribunal proceedings
(e.g. to account for holiday while on furlough be included within this policy are as follows: and appeals.
leave/ to allow additional carry-over if staff • Examples of when working from home may
need to work due to covid-19. be preferable/ permitted, including those

20 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


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Quality Management
OPERATIONS MANAGEMENT

Smooth
operator
How can you make your operations management
more efficient? Phil Elder shares his tips

want to talk about operations aspects of running the business can often feel

I management in this issue, to


get you thinking about, and if
necessary, implementing, new
overwhelming on top of everything else, not to
mention actually treating patients.
Let’s simplify it. Realistically, operations
ways in which you could streamline your management involves the planning, strategy
processes for a smoother overall running and supervision of three elements: people,
of your clinic. Operations or operational process and technology.
management is the planning, organising and
supervising that governs your being able to PEOPLE
provide the services you do as a business. This covers your staff, patients and suppliers.
“As such, it is delivery-focused,” says writer We live in a world of very easy access to
Tim Dhoul, “ensuring that an organisation information and people via email, social
successfully turns inputs to outputs in an media channels and instant messaging.
efficient manner. The inputs themselves When used correctly, the joy of this hyper-
could represent anything from materials, connectivity is the ability to build relationships
equipment and technology to human quickly and easily, but are you leveraging it in
resources such as staff or workers. the best ways possible?
“Examples of the types of duties or
specialist positions this encompasses are Immediate action step:
procurement (acquiring goods or services • CRM system – If you don’t have one, get
from external sources), managing relations one. Simple but incredibly useful customer
with those involved in processes and relationship management (CRM) systems
improving a company’s sustainability with are now often free. When you meet someone
regard to their use of resources”.1 (be it a new patient or business contact), take
Now, I’m guessing you weren’t exactly their business card (if a business contact)
aware you were singing up for all these jobs and log the person’s telephone number, email
when you opened your clinic, and that these address and social media channels in your

26 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


BUSINESS

system. This allows you immediate access current process working for you? Could it be
to the individual’s interests, passions and more effective? Manual methods of stock
regularly-updated live feed. Of course, I’m control can include a diary reminder to check
not in any way suggesting we start stalking stock levels and re-order on either a weekly or
people, but having this information to hand monthly basis. Or, if you are using bookkeeping
becomes an incredibly powerful tool to build a software, these often have built-in capabilities
rapport and make it easier to keep patient and for tracking stock levels. Most people often
business relationships going strong. simply associate the feature with use for
shops or e-commerce-style businesses, but
TECHNOLOGY I’d always recommend logging treatment and
Thanks to the pandemic, many of you will product sales too, as this will allow you to track
have become more in tune – whether you the most popular treatments in your clinic and
like it or not – with technology. But there are give a greater focus for marketing. The majority
some simple technology hacks you may not of accounting software (such as Xero, for
have thought about which we can within the example) has the ability to record stock.
business to modernise the way some lesser- If you record how much filler stock you
considered things are done. have, for example, then each time a treatment
is recorded this will automatically reduce
Immediate action step: the stock level, and you are able to set up
• Private YouTube channels and cloud-based auto re-orders or alerts when stock reaches
drives – I regularly use these for staff training, below a certain level. As I mentioned, you will
instead of or to support written internal already have many of these systems in place
documents. Whenever you are training within your business, and simply looking into
someone in any aspect of the business, or different ways to make the most of them can
even just performing a task yourself, record make a big difference to the efficiency of your
it to then go on to form a digital operations operations management.
manual. For visual learners, actually seeing
tasks performed as opposed to reading • Checklists – As a pilot, checklists are at the
instructions is much easier to digest. And, heart of my processes when I’m in the cockpit.
if you’re inclined to do so, you could even Even in an emergency situation, I know that
begin filming learning material for any future those set actions are to be followed in a set
courses should you wish to move into the pattern to get the best outcome. This is a
training sector. simple but very effective process we should
I can’t emphasise enough how much time be adopting into our clinics. One very key
I save from doing this. When new members of point, however, is to make sure that these
staff start at the clinic, they immediately have are reviewed regularly and that all those
a starting point for training; and your existing involved are part of an open-door policy
and future staff have a standardised point of so that these particular processes can be
reference for tasks that they may not perform refined if necessary, as and when changes
regularly. This will not only increase staff occur. Checklists can be used for the most
efficiency but will also make future training straightforward to the most complex chain of
efforts more effective and save you no end of events to ensure consistent outcomes.
time in re-training or answering questions for Operations management is a huge subject,
task-based processes. but the most important message I want to
get across is to encourage you to open your
PROCESSES mind to thinking of ways in which to improve. PHIL ELDER
As aesthetic clinic owners, we input products Whenever possible, think about how you Phil Elder is a multiple
and skills to provide the output of services to can leverage a resource, system or skill to business owner. His
portfolio includes Neos
our patients or clients. Processes can range in allow you to push forward. And do take note
Clinic, an aesthetic clinic
length and complexity and while we are in an of the suggested immediate action steps – in Ipswich, accountancy
industry in which automation is not an option education is a wonderful thing but without practice RSZ Accountancy
and the delivery of professional, high-quality implementation it is worthless. and a finance company.
care is paramount, don’t overlook the ability So, as soon as you finish reading this Blogs, videos and other
to implement processes into article, take an immediate step towards resources on business
your clinic. implementing or at least reviewing something efficiency, structuring a
company, tax savings and
we’ve discussed.
more can be found on
Immediate action steps: Phil’s website:
• Stock control – This can be as simple as a philipelder.uk.
note to reorder X amount of stock stuck to the REFERENCES Follow him on Instagram:
inside of your stock cupboard. Or, it can be a 1. https://www.topmba.com/mba-programs/what- @philipelder
operations-management
task reminder on your device or time blocked
out in your calendar to check stock. Is your

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BUSINESS

Ask
Alex
Clinic digital marketing
specialist Alex Bugg answers
your questions

Q: I OFFER A MINOR SURGERY SERVICE people have some sort of concern but generate leads. Don’t write off “traditional”
AS WELL AS AESTHETICS, BUT I FIND aren’t exactly sure what it is, or the solution. ads either; print in local media is one
THIS IS HARDER TO MARKET. WHAT Double down on education through video, option, but who hasn’t wanted to buy an ad
SHOULD I DO? text and audio. Case studies for minor on the back of a bus one day? With such
A: Firstly, I’d make sure you have plenty of surgery are usually very visual, so where you visual treatments which are relatable, why
information about minor surgery on your can get consent for anonymised images to not explore this?
website, so you can rank on Google in your be used, do. Share awareness campaigns on Remember, some minor surgery patients
area – or even nationally – for each concern. social media and email, contact local press would have zero interest in aesthetic
Know who your target patients are – what do (remember, print journalism often goes treatments, so you have to go and find
they know already, what are they searching online) and keep local TV and radio in mind, those patients and tell them you’re here
for answers to, what do they want as a as they can often be underestimated. and offering this (where a GP service might
solution? Then see if there any alignments Once you’ve got your marketing no longer). This is why understanding your
with your current patient base. These messaging, you could advertise. If you’ve patient and building awareness are the
databases are usually the quick win. got a strong landing page with case studies building blocks to successfully marketing
Then, it’s about creating awareness for minor surgery, you can switch on any treatment, be it skin tag removal or
campaigns for minor skin lesions; most paid ads via Google or other channels to toxin injections.

Q: HOW DO I MAKE MORE SOCIAL MEDIA CONTENT WHEN I ONLY HAVE A FEW
PATIENTS WHO CONSENT TO THEIR IMAGE BEING USED?
A: Especially when starting out, creating 4. The follow-up – when you follow up with
content for social can zap a lot of time and the patient, show the difference between
energy. This is where repurposing can help. post treatment and two or four weeks after ALEX BUGG
As well as creating educational posts – be (whatever is appropriate) Alex Bugg works for Web
that words on an image or video – you can 5. In my bag – if they left with skincare Marketing Clinic, a family-
repurpose one client’s consented image products, ask them to snap what’s inside run digital agency, which
specialises in medical
into multiple social media posts which you 6. The video testimonial – or the written one
aesthetics. They build
can use across the space of weeks or even 7. The key testimonial quote in an image websites and deliver
months. One well-planned appointment 8. Any user-generated content posted by marketing campaigns for
with image and video can make the the patient doctors, nurses, dentists,
following posts: That’s a week’s worth of posts from just distributors and brands.
1. Before-and-after single image one patient. These can be posted in order Contact her: alex@
2. Photos or video showing the or mixed in with other posts. They don’t just webmarketingclinic.
co.uk or follow her
treatment process need to be feed posts either; these can also
on Instagram:
3. The products – discuss the products you go on stories or be spread across multiple @webmarketingclinic
used for this case social channels.

aestheticmed.co.uk Aesthetic Medicine 29


CLINIC PROFILE

North
star
Dr Raj’s Thethi’s new clinic is exciting, impressive and
somewhat unexpected, finds Georgia Seago

r Raj Thethi says he never “Covid made a lot of opportunities pop up

D expected to have this – a


3,500sq ft, two-floor clinic
with six treatment rooms,
for me. Of course, I appreciate how horrible
it is, but there are silver linings to everything.
The day before the PM announced the first
an operating theatre and recovery room, lockdown, I was due to sign a lease for a
training centre and offices – at such an early much smaller clinic space, but I had this
stage in his career, at the age of just 31. “I weird gut feeling. Now, I’m so glad.”
thought this was going to be something I Dr Thethi explains that as restrictions
would have 15-or-so years into the future, from the first lockdown started to ease in
when I was 45, or something,” he says. July last year, he called back to see if the

30 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


CLINIC PROFILE

space was still available. It wasn’t, and he was clinics do have a separate space it’s always
“kicking myself; so, so gutted”. But then he an afterthought, but I want training to be the
came across a much bigger unit online and forefront. When you walk into the training
suddenly, things took a different turn. The facility at Yorkshire Skin Centre [which is
vision expanded into what is now Yorkshire within the clinic building] you know that it’s a
Skin Centre, and it’s hard to imagine things space purely for education.”
turning out how they were originally intended. In his own words, what Dr Thethi really
With so much more space than he loves is creating beauty. This is evident in his
expected and having to completely renovate approach to his patients’ treatments, but
the whole thing, Dr Thethi had his work cut also in the design of the new space. Before
out: “Covid meant that throughout the most going into medicine, he says he wanted to
recent lockdown I could just focus on it as become an architect, so the opportunity to
a full-time project, because I didn’t have an design and create the clinic of his dreams
architect or a designer, I did everything from was a real gift. “The fact that I could design
scratch myself; where the walls were going a space and take it to the artistic level that
to be, where the plug sockets were going to I wanted it to be at, that level of style and
go, down to the taps and treatment couches. sophistication… I just haven’t seen it that
There weren’t even any pipes because it’s
a former car showroom, so the floors were
weighted concrete – no floorboards or
timber, nothing,” he says.
Of course, it’s not entirely true that
Dr Thethi did everything himself. In fact,
his father, a joiner, ended up doing and
overseeing most of the work, including
the plumbing, mounting of the electrics;
essentially everything one would need to
do to create a fully functional super-clinic
out of massive shell. “The hardest bit was
figuring out the logistics of what you need
and where, and how you’re going to achieve
it, so my dad has been instrumental. It was
expensive, but it’s a place I want to grow
into, I don’t want to keep moving around,”
he says.

ON THE MAP
Based in Leeds, Dr Thethi wanted his clinic
to rival those of London in terms of prestige,
but with the space, light, luxury and artistry
that are perhaps harder to achieve in the
capital thanks to the astronomical rents of
Harley Street and the surrounding areas.
“Space and light are so important, and when often. There are very few clinics in the north
you have a little cramped, dingy room, it that are like that. Often, you find mediocre
takes away from the whole experience for the design and I’ve worked in many places that
patient, especially when you’re squeezing looked like decaying hospitals. I really didn’t
past them to get a needle or something. I want to bring that vibe,” he says.
treat my patients like portraits, and I want to The clinic’s luxurious yet tasteful interior
be able to demonstrate in surroundings that lends a certain sparkle to the patient
echo it,” he says. journey, reflecting how seriously Dr Thethi
Having himself visited other clinics for takes his work but on a level that is genuine,
training in the past, Dr Thethi says he was welcoming and comfortable – exactly the
always conscious of the spaces in which way he makes you feel when you speak to
practical treatment demonstrations were him, and, presumably, why he has a clientele
carried out. So, suddenly faced with a much large enough to justify such a big space (at
bigger space than he ever anticipated, he the time of our interview, Dr Thethi had no
decided to incorporate a training facility. availability for two months and patients were
“Most of the time you’re just stood in the having to be turned away who didn’t want
injector’s room and you’re training in there,” to wait). “I think it just reflects better when a
he explains. “A clinical space is great, but place is more beautiful,” he says. “People walk
it’s not really a training environment. When in and they instantly feel confident that you’ve

aestheticmed.co.uk Aesthetic Medicine 31


CLINIC PROFILE

invested time, energy and money into their almost respectful of the space. Skin Radiance
experience, that I’m confident in helping them Clinics was when I was a novice injector and
achieve their aesthetic goals.” I think I was probably naive in what I wanted;
at that point the long-term plan was to set up
ACHIEVING EXCELLENCE lots of small clinics, hence the plural, ‘clinics’ in
Dr Thethi is in the process of obtaining CQC the name,” he says.
registration for the clinic in order to get up Part of the reason behind this shift in
and running with another element that vision is down to how the NHS has evolved to
sets it apart – its operating theatre, where combine multiple small centres for trauma, for
visiting plastic surgeons will run some of their example, into larger hubs that key specialists
consultations and perform minor procedures work out of. “I’ve been looking at the way the
such as upper blepharoplasties and mole and NHS is unfolding, and I think it’s important
skin lesion removals. Mr Sharif Kaf Al-Ghazal, because they’ve been running a lot longer
consultant plastic surgeon at Bradford than our small clinic models and we can learn
Teaching Hospitals NHS Trust, is one such a lot of lessons from that,” says Dr Thethi.
surgeon, while Dr Thethi is in contact with “They discovered that the overall level of
others interested in providing specialisms like care that people received was less than if
minor vascular surgeries. they were taken to a larger tertiary centre
He’s also already planning on adding where everyone with those needs is
women’s-health services covering hormones referred, with a few experts in those certain
and vaginal rejuvenation with a focus on the procedures. Now, I’d rather people travel
menopause. “I really want this to be a true to me at this one location, and I know that
centre of excellence; a place where patients when they come here, I’m going to make their
can come and have the best treatment experience worthwhile.”
no matter their concern,” says Dr Thethi. “I
happily refer patients to other people if I think TEAM EFFORT
they’re better at something than I am. Now, I Behind every great doctor is a team of equally
can have all these experts under one roof.” great staff, and Dr Thethi speaks incredibly
This vision of bringing together expertise highly of his staff members, brought on
in multiple areas of aesthetics, health and board as much for their skills and experience
beauty is the reason behind the name change as their energy and personality. His wife
from Skin Radiance Clinics – Dr Thethi’s first Sharan, a dentist, is the clinic manager, while
clinic which he founded in 2017 – to Yorkshire Charlotte Dewhirst and Olivia Horne make
Skin Centre. “We needed to rebrand, and I up the admin team. Alongside Dr Thethi,
wanted the new name to be pertinent and aesthetic practitioner and semi-permanent

32 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


CLINIC PROFILE

more than anything else, but at the moment,


I’m missing my kids a little bit.”

TRIED AND TESTED


Dr Thethi uses the Teoxane HA dermal-filler
portfolio for injectables alongside Ellansé
from Sinclair Pharma, and is a trainer for
both, while for skin treatments, the clinic
uses ZO Skin Health.
He says his favourite treatment to
perform at the moment though, is InMode’s
Morpheus8 radiofrequency microneedling
(see page 66 for a case study with the
device). “I love it so much,” he says. “If I
can smell what I’m doing [from heating the
skin] that means I’m doing something deep
and I’m doing something serious for the
patient. That’s where I feel very comfortable
in treatments.” The media buzz around
Morpheus8 and the transformations of
patients who have had the treatment
is evident during consultations, says Dr
Thethi. “They walk in already having some
make-up artist Egle Ambraskaite (known knowledge, which makes our job a lot easier.
as Elle) – who, with a Bachelor’s Degree They’re informed and half the hard work is
in Cosmetology and Medicine and more done because that social proof works, there’s
than 10 years in aesthetics, he describes evidence,” he says.
as “really, really experienced” – also Dr Thethi places much importance on
performs treatments, providing laser, IPL, consultations, spending at least an hour
radiofrequency microneedling, cosmetic with each new patient before he agrees to
tattooing, chemical peels, and more. work on their face. “I don’t care if I spend an
“I’m the only cosmetic doctor at the hour and a half with someone and not inject
moment,” says Dr Thethi. But we’ve got all them,” he says. “It doesn’t matter, because
these empty rooms so potentially we’re the amount of time that you put into that
going to rent them out to other medical initial consultation, the patient values that,
aesthetic practitioners. We’ve already had they’re going to feel more comfortable
loads of interest from people who want to taking your opinion, and it builds trust.” If his
utilise the space because they like the design most recent award win – Global Health and
and how forward-thinking it is.” However, he’s Pharma’s 2021 Most Trusted Aesthetic Clinic
understandably cautious about who else – Leeds – is anything to go by, Dr Thethi’s
works from Yorkshire Skin Centre, especially approach is clearly working.
when many of the most skilled and reputable
injectors already have their own clinics. “I
need to make sure that the person I bring in
is very moldable and coachable so I can get
them to a level where they’re independent
but would make the same decisions I would
make. And that’s really, really, really hard to
find,” he says.
Another reason for eventually bringing
other clinicians on board is to free up some
of Dr Thethi’s workload, though he recognises
that the intensity of the early stages of
owning a new clinic won’t last forever: “There
are always going to be teething problems
at the beginning, and at the moment one of
them is that I’m having to stay here so late at
night, working literally until two o’clock in the
morning every day, then back up at six to
work again,” he says. “I think it’s just the initial
phases of figuring out the logistics of a clinic

aestheticmed.co.uk Aesthetic Medicine 33


VISIT US ON
STAND E18

LIVE
OLYMPIA LONDON
8-9 JULY 2021
FAT-DISSOLVING INJECTIONS

Top: before, Bottom: after two sessions of Aqualyx. Treatment by Dr Maeve Kenningham

Slimming
down
Dr Maeve Kenningham assess the safety profile
and mechanism of adipocytolysis with
injectable therapy using Aqualyx

DR MAEVE KENNINGHAM
Dr Maeve Kenningham MBChB MRCGP DipDerm DRCOG DFFP is the director of Dr K’s
Clinic in Wrexham, Wales, where she delivers relaxed, bespoke and patient-centred
advanced medical aesthetic services. She also treats patients at NassifMD Medical
Spa in Manchester once a fortnight. Dr Kenningham has been a GP for 20 years and
has trained for the Royal College of General Practitioners. Follow her on Instagram:
@dr_ks_clinic

36 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


CLINICAL

everal adipocytolysis injectable claims of Lipostabil. However, both appear to

S products are available in the


UK and are modifications of
deoxycholate (DC): Aqualyx,
have a good safety profile in the right hands
and are widely used throughout Europe by
the doctor group NETWORK-Lipolysis.
Desoface and Desobody, Lipostabil and
Lipodissolve. Kybella is FDA-approved in FAT REDUCTION AND SKIN
the US and is known as Belkyra in Europe STRENGTHENING
but is not yet available in the UK. Although The marked immune response from Aqualyx
greatly anticipated here, it appears patients treatment and resulting macrophage
elsewhere feel underwhelmed by the results. infiltrate appears to serve a two-fold
A recent search of Realself “worth it” ratings purpose. First, the macrophages clear the
(accessed in May 2021) showed that 57% of cell membrane fragments and free lipids,
96 patients felt it was worthwhile, while 42% and second, through fibroblast recruitment,
felt it was not. neocollagenesis is stimulated.6,7 Once
Aqualyx has been in clinical use since destroyed, the adipocytes cannot store or
2009, mostly for reduction of localised accumulate fat, resulting in fat reduction
adiposity, and I have used it in my clinic for but also a bonus of tissue tightening.8,9 This
three years. It is deemed a medical device in explains why, in my experience, the tissue
Europe and the manufacturer recommends sagging that is commonly observed in a rapid
its use alongside ultrasound for the micro- weight-loss process is not seen in those
cavitation of adipose tissue. So, without successfully treated with Aqualyx.
ultrasound, Aqualyx on its own represents
an off-label use of the medical device. CONTRAINDICATIONS
However, its solitary use has been extensively The contraindications to use are widely
described in literature.2–4 Kybella and Belkyra, known and common to all the adipocytolysis
on the other hand, are recorded as drugs.4 injectable treatments. The side effect profile
The principal active ingredient of Aqualyx is what is expected; the transitory effects of
is deoxycholic acid. This is a secondary bile the inflammatory sequalae in the skin are
acid that is produced by the liver and used to experienced by almost all and patients need
break up fat for intestinal absorption. When to be counseled. Nodules are reported and
injected into adipose tissue it disrupts the are in the main reversible; they have been
cell membranes and the fatty acid contents shown to be a consequence of inappropriate
are released. The micro-gelatinous delivery injection technique and their frequency
system, which contains buffering agents was inversely proportional to the treating
and a low concentration of active detergent, physician’s experience.3
appears to successfully reduce the Submental fat may re-accumulate
inflammation caused by DC.5 Before I began following the procedure as the neighbouring
working with Aqualyx, my insurer Medical unaffected fat cells can expand to fill the gap
Protection Society would not insure me for created by treatment. Like liposuction, there
Lipodissolve use and there had been some can be localised areas of depression. Skin
controversy with the FDA about the safety numbness and neuralgia can also be a side
effect. Lab and patient studies have shown
direct injury of the marginal mandibular
nerve (MMN) sheath with DC.10 It is presumed
this occurs because the myelin sheath is
predominantly lipid, so if the MMN is injured
an asymmetric smile is seen (as it supplies
the depressor labii inferioris muscle). In
my research of papers and personal
experience, this complication is transient
and resolves spontaneously.
Dysphagia and beard area alopecia
are also rare complications. There are
rare reports of skin and muscle necrosis.
Scientific studies show that the physiologic
concentrations of albumin or protein-rich
tissues will decrease the ability of DC to lyse
cells but does not make these cells immune
to apoptosis.11
In my three years of experience, I have
only seen two of the rarer complications.
One patient had hyperpigmentation and

aestheticmed.co.uk Aesthetic Medicine 37


FAT-DISSOLVING INJECTIONS

Top: before, Bottom: after two sessions of Aqualyx. Treatment by Dr Maeve Kenningham

induration of the upper arm area that license in his case), an attempt to improve
persisted for 12 months and the other was the definition of the jawline through further
a temporary paralysis of the depressor treatment with Ellansé or with PDO/ PLLA/
labii inferior that lasted seven weeks. PCL threads, a consideration of surgery
This complication occurred despite the with liposuction and/or neck lift; or some
recommended placement of the product targeted adipocytolysis by the following
1.5cm below the inferior border of the methods: cavitation by high-intensity
mandible from the gonion to the menton.12 ultrasound, thermal damage through ablative
However, it has been described in the radiofrequency, cryolipolysis, laser diode
literature that the nerve can be found up therapy or injectable adipocytolysis therapy.
to 4cm below the inferior border of the He had been happy with filler in the past,
mandible.8 In a Kybella trial, MMN paresis was but he saw that there was heaviness and
identified as a possible complication but all hypertrophic adiposity in the submental
were transitory.13 area. These changes are frequently the result
of ageing and weight gain but there is also a
CASE STUDY genetic component. This jowled appearance
Mr GH is a 39-year-old patient who was is further exacerbated by ptosis of the
concerned about submental fullness and lack unsupported skin with the downward pull of
of jawline definition. He attended the gym four the platysma muscle.1 He wanted to pursue
times a week and his weight had stabilised adipocytolysis with injectable therapy. We
at 91kg, making his BMI 27.5. He had a good could then visit defining the jawline with fillers
diet and lifestyle. Over the years he has had or threads at a later date if needed.
toxin and both HA and bio-stimulating fillers
(Ellansé). He grappled with insecurities about Assesment
his appearance and these treatments gave When assessing patients for adipocytolysis
him confidence to engage more freely in with injectable therapy, I manipulate the
social interactions. After a brief assessment, area to ascertain if it is adipose tissue and
we discussed all available options including determine the thickness. If the area is thick
a targeted 5% weight loss through further there appears to be less risk of unsightly
dieting or oral or injectable medication (off- induration of the skin. I do a medical

38 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


CLINICAL

assessment and exclude other causes of RESULTS


fullness such as thyromegally and cervical The removal of fat cells will be permanent
lymphadenopathy. I assess the skin for with adipocytolysis no matter what product
abnormal scarring tendencies and other is used. The resulting inflammation appears
contraindications and exclude these to have a skin strengthening fibrosis that
patients from treatment. I discuss how many further enhances the results.8,9 However, if
treatments are most likely to produce good weight is gained the neighbouring untreated
results. We then go through the consent and adipocytes enlarge and fill the void left. I
capacity process. I take a series of photos have a few patients who have had another
to include the profile view of the face with submental treatment 18 months after their
Frankfort plane parallel to the floor. I chart initial course and their results improve
the patient’s weight. again without problems.
In my experience Aqualyx is a relatively
Treatment and results safe and efficacious treatment for the
I use an ANTT and a sterile dressing pack. I reduction of submental fat. I look forward to
add 0.2ml 1% lidocaine per vial as this aids my comparing it to Belkyra when it appears on
patient’s comfort, and use three X 3ml luer lok the UK market.
syringes with a 25G 70mm blunt cannula. The
cannula is inserted in the pre-platysmal fat.
Threads of 0.3-0.5ml per pass of product are
distributed as homogeneously as possible. I
trained in the use of lipolysis sharp cannulas
REFERENCES
1. The Anatomy of the Aging Face: Volume Loss and reducing therapies: fat reduction. In: Orringer JS,
but found the bruising and haemosiderin Changes in 3-Dimensional Topography. Sydney R. Murad A, Dover JS, editors. Body Shaping, Skin Fat
staining an unnecessary draw back. I now use Coleman, MD, Rajiv Grover, BSc, MB BS, MD, FRCS and Cellulite: Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology
(Plast) Author Notes. Aesthetic Surgery Journal, Series. Vol. 91 2014. [Google Scholar]
27/25G 70mm blunt cannulas. This also helps Volume 26, Issue 1_Supplement, January 2006, Pages 8. Plast Reconstr Surg Glob Open. 2016 Dec; 4(12
in keeping my product in the low-resistance S4–S9, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.asj.2005.09.012 Suppl): e1155. Published online 2016 Dec 14.
2. Rauso R, Rusciani A, Curinga G. An adipocitolitic doi: 10.1097/GOX.0000000000001155 PMCID:
adipose plane. aqueous micro- gelatinous solution for buffalo PMC5172481 PMID: 28018773 Ava T. Shamban, MD
The procedure itself takes less than 10 hump deformity reduction. J Drugs Dermatol. 9. Pereira JX, Cavalcante Y, Wanzeler de Oliveira R. The
minutes to perform and the patient will be 2014;13:1282–1284. role of inflammation in adipocytolytic nonsurgical
3. Pinto H, Hernandez C, Turra C, et al. Evaluation of a esthetic procedures for body contouring. Clin Cosmet
aware of heat and a burning sensation for new adipocytolytic solution: adverse effects and Investig Dermatol. 2017;10:57-66
the next 12 hours. The adipocytolysis occurs their relation- ship with the number of vials injected. J https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S125580
immediately on injection but the residual Drugs Dermatol. 2014;13:1451–1455. 10. Deoxycholic Acid and the Marginal Mandibular
4. Rauso R, Salti G. A CE-marked drug used for localized Nerve: A Cadaver Study June 2018. Aesthetic Plastic
inflammation may take time to settle. The adiposity reduction: a 4-year experience. Aesthet Surgery 42(Suppl 1) DOI:10.1007/s00266-018-
swelling tends to peak at day two to four Surg J. 2015;35:850–857. 1164-4
5: Comments on “Injection Lipolysis With 11. Thuangtong R…Tissue selective effects of injected
– cold packs are helpful – and can last for Phosphatidylcholine and Deoxycholate” Giovanni deoxycholate Dermatol Surg. 2010; 366: 899 - 908
six weeks, at which point I review to assess Salti, MD, Raffaele Rauso, MD Aesthetic Surgery 12. Novel Expanded Safe Zone for Reduction of
whether another treatment is needed. Most Journal, Volume 34, Issue 4, May 2014, Pages Submental Fullness with ATX-101 Injection.
639–640, https://doi.org/10.1177/1090820X14528506 Shridharani, Sachin M. M.D.; Chandawarkar, Akash A.
patients require two to four treatments in Published: 01 May 2014 M.D. Author Information . Plastic and Reconstructive
the submental area. In this case, after two 6. Duncan D, Rotunda AM. Injectable therapies for Surgery: December 2019 - Volume 144 - Issue 6 - p
sessions of Aqualyx we did not have to localized fat loss: state of the art, clinics in plastic 995e-1001e doi: 10.1097/PRS.0000000000006299
surgery. Clin Plast Surg. 2011;38:489 501.[PubMed] 13. Kythera Biopharmaceuticals, Inc. Dermatologic
proceed to further jawline sculpting as the [Google Scholar] and ophthalmic drugs advisory committee briefing
patient was very happy with the results. His 7. Saedi N, Rotunda AM, Dover JS. Injectable fat- document: ATX-101 (deoxycholic acid) injection.
weight remained stable throughout.

aestheticmed.co.uk Aesthetic Medicine 39


8-9 JULY 2021

BUSINESS
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EXHIBITION | CONFERENCES | BUSINESS WORKSHOPS | DEMO THEATRE

Join us at the leading medical aesthetic show in the UK,


keeping you at the forefront of your profession.

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Entrance policy: The show is open to doctors, dentists, nurses, medical professionals and qualified aesthetic practitioners.
Face masks will be mandatory inside the venue at all times. Entry without a face mask or covering will not be permitted.
Strictly no persons under the ages of 18 will be admitted. Event helpline: +44 (0) 344 443 4413.
8-9 JULY 2021

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Entrance policy: The show is open to doctors, dentists, nurses, medical professionals and qualified aesthetic practitioners.
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Strictly no persons under the ages of 18 will be admitted. Event helpline: +44 (0) 344 443 4413.
BELIEVE IN THE
POWER OF SEEING.
Ultherapy® is the only FDA cleared microfocused ultrasound technology
that has real time visualisation (MFU-V).1,2
Real-time visualisation, enabling For more information
treatment customisation, precision targeting of tissues,
and optimised patient outcomes 3 visit Ultherapy.co.uk
FDA-cleared and CE-marked so you can be @merzaesthetics.uki
confident of Ultherapy®’s good safety profile1
Merz Aesthetics UK & Ireland
The Gold Standard for non-surgical lifting
and skin tightening, as determined by
an expert consensus panel3

REAL-TIME VISUALISATION
1

REFERENCES:
1. www.accessdata.fda.gov/cdrh_docs/pdf13/k134032.pdf Accessed September 2019 2. Ulthera release:
Ultherapy® décolletage treatment now FDA-cleared. BioSpace website. https://www.biospace.com/ Adverse events should be reported. Reporting forms and information for United Kingdom
article/releases/ulthera-release-ultherapy-and-0174-d%C3%A9colletage-treatment-now-fda-cleared-/. can be found at www.mhra.gov.uk/yellowcard. Reporting forms and information for
Accessed January 21, 2020. 3. Fabi SG, Joseph J, Sevi J, Green JB, Peterson JD. Optimizing patient Republic of Ireland can be found at https://www.hpra.ie/homepage/about-us/report-an-
outcomes by customizing treatment with microfocused ultrasound with visualization: gold standard issue/mdiur. Adverse events should also be reported to Merz Pharma UK Ltd at the address
consensus guidelines from an expert panel. J Drugs Dermatol. 2019;18(5):426-432 above or by email to UKdrugsafety@merz.com or on +44 (0) 333 200 4143.

Refer to the Instructions for Use (IFU) for complete instructions on operating the Ultherapy® System
The non-invasive Ultherapy® procedure is U.S. FDA-cleared to lift skin on the neck, on the eyebrow and under the chin as well as to improve lines and wrinkles on the décolleté.
The CE Mark indications for use for the Ulthera® System include non-invasive dermatological sculpting and lifting of the dermis on the upper face, lower face, neck and décolleté.
Reported adverse events from postmarketing surveillance are available in the Instructions for Use (IFU ). Please see the available IFU in your country for product and safety
information, including a full list of these events. © 2018 Ulthera, Inc. The Merz Aesthetics logo is a registered trademark of Merz Pharma GmbH & Co. Ulthera, Ultherapy, DeepSEE, SEE
THE BEAUTY OF SOUND and the Ultherapy logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of Ulthera, Inc., in the U .S. and /or certain foreign countries.

Merz Pharma UK Ltd. Ground Floor Suite B, Breakspear Park, Hemel Hempstead, Hertfordshire HP2 4TZ Tel: +44 (0) 333 200 4140
M-ULT-UKI-0988 Date of Preparation June 2021
CLINICAL

Warning
signs
Aesthetic doctor Dr Ana Mansouri examines the
epidemiology, risk factors, diagnosis, treatment
and prevention of malignant melanoma

DR ANA MANSOURI
Dr Ana Mansouri is an aesthetic doctor at Kat & Co in Birmingham. She has a Bachelor
of Medicine & Bachelor of Surgery from Newcastle University Medical School and
has completed a postgraduate diploma in Clinical Dermatology with Queen Mary
University London. She is a member of the British Association of Dermatology (BAD),
British Society for Dermatological Surgery (BSDS) and British Society of Aesthetic
Examiners and Assessors (BSAEA). Follow her on Instagram: @doctor__ana

aestheticmed.co.uk Aesthetic Medicine 45


MALIGNANT MELANOMA

rimary cutaneous melanoma or malignant melanoma Greatly increased High risk Low risk

P (MM) is an increasingly common malignant tumour


arising from cutaneous melanocytes. MM is an
uncommon cancer in the UK (≈4% of all new cancer
risk (over 10-fold):
Presence of giant
(≈8-10-fold):
Above average mole
(≈2-3-fold):
Any family history
diagnoses).1 It has extremely high mortality, with over 2,000 deaths congenital pigmented count (>100) of MM
across the UK in 20111 and subsequently, a significant impact on the hairy neavus*
years of life lost in view of its occurrence in young people.2 Personal history ≥2 Atypical moles** High density freckles
of MM
EPIDEMIOLOGY
MM occurs most frequently in fair-skinned individuals and is more Family history of MM Immunosuppression Red hair or blonde
common in women. Mean age of onset is 50 but ≈20% of patients are (≥2 cases in first such as organ hair, blue eyes,
young adults.2 The lifetime risk was estimated 1:120 for women and degree relatives) transplant recipients sun-sensitive skin
1:150 for men in 2010 in the UK.2 The incidence varies greatly among Table 1. Phenotypic risk factors for malignant melanoma.2,4,3
countries; MM is the 15th most common cancer worldwide.3 *diameter of 20 cm and 5% of body surface area
**2% of the UK population have this phenotype
RISK FACTORS
The incidence of MM correlates closely with latitude and the
causation of sun exposure in the development of MM is well MAPK pathway Gene alterations in MM:
documented.2 UV light is the main environmental risk factor. Intense signaling molecules:
and intermittent UV exposure is associated with higher risks in
contrast to chronic sun exposure. Exposure to over five episodes •RAS • CDKN2A
of sunburn during childhood or adolescence leads to a two-fold • RAF • CDK4
increased risk of developing MM. This also applies to sunbed users
and psoriasis patients receiving UVA phototherapy.3 • MEK • MC1R
• ERK • BRAF
AETIOLOGY
The majority of precursor melanocytes which develop into a benign • p16/ARF
nevus and subsequently into an atypical nevus will regress, however Table 2. Examples of signalling molecules and gene alternation involved in the
some undergo malignant transformation into MM.2 malignant transformation of melanocytes.3
The pathway where normal melanocytes undergo melanogenesis
is not yet fully understood.3 Major advances in the past decade have
identified new predisposing gene alterations. The process is believed
to rely on a complex interaction between environmental UV-exposure
in combination with endogenous triggers (tumour-intrinsic and
immune-mediated factors).3 37-50% of MM carry a mutation in the
BRAF gene, the majority is the V600E type. BRAF mutation leads to Figure 1. The malignant transformation of MM; only 20-50% of MM develop
unregulated activation of the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) on a pre-existing nevus, a significant number of MM develop de novo.2,3
pathway which is exhibited in up to 90% of MM cases. Activation of
MAPK and thus RAS protein activation stimulates RAF (including BRAF)
and subsequently MEK and ERK kinase phosphorylation. This process
leads to cell cycle deregulation and inhibition of apoptosis.3
Xeroderma pigmentosum is a genetic disease where the DNA
excision system is dysfunctional hence leading to a predisposition to
MM. The familial atypical multiple mole-melanoma syndrome and its
variant, the melanoma-astrocytoma syndrome has been associated
with germline mutations in the high-penetrance melanoma genes
CDKN2A or p16 and mutations in CDK4.3

DIAGNOSIS
Early diagnosis is essential due to MM’s typically slow early growth rate,
as this may allow for detection and removal of curable lesions, hence a
reduction in likeliness of mortality.2,4
Figure 2. Malignant transformation of the melanocyte through the two
Clinical features processes of mutations affecting proto-oncogene/tumor suppressor genes
Most cases of MM are asymptomatic, however some patients (TP53, NF1, PTEN) and the BRAFV600E mutation which may undergo further
experience pruritus, tingling or bleeding. These features are rarely UV mediated mutation (TERT and CDKN2A).3

46 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


CLINICAL

Type of MM: Clinical features:


Superficial spreading melanoma (SSMM) • Most common type – approximately 70% of cases
• Initially slow growing and develop horizontally (curable stage)
• Later acquire potential for invasion
• Up to 50% demonstrate BRAF mutations.
Nodular melanoma • Most common on sun-exposed areas (head and neck) and in older patients
• Presents as a rapidly enlarging lump typically over weeks to months
• Vertical growth phase
• One third are amelanotic
• May be ulcerated.
Lentigo maligna melanoma (LMM) • Commonly presents on skin with a history of chronic sun exposure and in individuals over 60 years of age
• Precursor pigmented macule - in situ lentigo maligna (LM) or Hutchinson’s freckle.
• Initially slow growing lesion or changing patch of discoloured skin
• Later rapidly becomes invasive.
Acral lentiginous melanomas (ALM) • Rarest subtype, approximately 2% of cases
• Seen in patients with African American skin types
• Aetiologically unrelated to sun exposure
• Occur on soles, palms as initially slowly enlarging flat patch of smooth discoloured skin
• Later becomes thicker with an irregular surface
• Subungual lesions often present as narrow pigmented band in the nail, which slowly widens and ultimately
produces a mass.

Table 3. Clinical subtypes of Malignant Melanoma.1,2,5

helpful in diagnosis as they commonly occur in benign moles.2 Major features (2 points): Minor features (1 point):
The majority of MM in the UK occur in the lower legs in women and on
the back in men. Head and neck lesions commonly occur in people Change in size of lesion Inflammation
with chronic sun exposure.2 Irregular pigmentation Pruritus or altered sensation
MM can be classified into the four most commonly occurring
clinical subtypes as per Table 3. Irregular border/contour Lesion larger than others or
Atypical moles and melanoma in situ are considered pre-malignant diameter >7mm
lesions and often show marked variation in shape and colour and may Oozing or crusting lesion
have an inflamed appearance.1,2 It is important to note that MM can
rarely arise from any melanocytic origin including gastrointestinal tract, Table 4. The Glasgow 7-Point Checklist system. Referral to secondary care is
ears and eyes, oral and genital mucosa as well as leptomeninges.1 recommended for a lesion with the presence of any major feature or a lesion
scoring at least three points. The presence of minor features should
Clinical assessment tools increase suspicion.1,6
A number of assessment tools are used to identify high-risk lesions.
The Glasgow 7-Point Checklist outlines minor and major
clinical features as per Table 4. The ABCDE rule is another commonly A Geometrical ASSYMETRY in two areas
used tool for early detection of MM as per Table 5.
These tools are considered more sensitive than specific; however, B Irregular BORDER
they may be less accurate in identifying nodular and amenlanocytic C At least two different COLOURS in lesion
subtypes.4 The “ugly duckling” sign may be more useful in these cases
whereby the melanoma can be recognised as an “outlier”. It is also D Maximum DIAMETER >6mm
important to note the majority of MM cases develop de novo.1,6 It is E EVOLUTION/change in lesion
well documented that some melanomas will have no major features,
the cue in identifying MM may therefore lie only in the history.2,6 Table 5. The ABCDE rule of diagnosing melanoma. The presence of any feature
is an indicator for referral.1,2,4,6
Referral
Any suspicious lesion should be referred for local specialist MDT
input, in particular any individual classed at high risk (see Table
1).1,2,4 A moley patient should be referred for a 13-week specialist

aestheticmed.co.uk Aesthetic Medicine 47


MALIGNANT MELANOMA

assessment including risk estimation and Clinical features of suspected MM:


patient education.2
• A new mole which is growing quickly over the age of puberty
Dermatoscopy • A long-standing mole which is changing progressively in shape, size or
Dermatoscopy is a useful tool in colour at any age
assessment and monitoring of atypical • Any mole which has three or more colours or has lost its symmetry
melanocytic lesions as well as in • Any new nodule which is growing and is pigmented or vascular
in appearance
improving early detection of MM as it can
• A new pigmented line in a nail
increase diagnostic accuracy in the use
• Something growing under a nail
of trained clinicians.4
• A mole which has changed in appearance and which is also itching
or bleeding
Differential diagnosis
• Any new persistent skin lesion especially if growing, pigmented or
The differentials of the MM diagnosis
vascular in appearance, and if the diagnosis is not clear.
include a wide range of conditions as per
Table 8. Subungual MM may in particular Table 6. Indications for urgent two-week referral to local specialist
be misdiagnosed as a fungal infection or MDT assessment.1,2,4
pyogenic granuloma.1

Histopathology SSMM: Lentigo Nodular Acral Amelanocytic


Histological classification and risk maligna melanoma: lentiginous melanoma:
calculation determine subsequent melanoma: melanoma:
treatment options.
• Irregular • Asymmetrical • Isolated • Irregular • Low level focal,
Staging pigment shape globules structures peripheral
Breslow thickness is measured as network • Irregular • Blue-grey veil and pigment and irregular
millimeters of depth from the granular layer rhomboidal • White streaks network pigmentation,
of the epidermis to the deepest part of • Radiating structures • Irregular linear/ • Assymtrical • Linear, dotted,
the tumour. This describes the anatomical peripheral • Pigmented dotted vessels shape corkscrew or
streaks follicular • Broad parallel polymorphous
level of invasion and makes part of the
openings ridge pattern vessels
AJCC staging system (as per Table 11) as it
• Slate grey dots
correlates strongly with survival.4
and globules
Pre-operative staging CT is
recommended for stages IIC and III in Table 7. Classical dermatoscopical features of MM subtypes.1,5
view of the higher likelihood of distant
metastases, whereas stage IV disease
should be imaged based on SSMDT SMM LMM NM ALM
outcome.4,6 Once melanoma has spread it
typically becomes life-threatening rapidly
and prognosis is therefore poor.4

TREATMENT
Local skin cancer MDTs should identify • Diffuse pagetoid • RGP pattern with • The RGP pattern •Similar pattern of
patients who would benefit from specialist pattern of RGP with epithelioid, spindle is absent RGP as LMM with
skin cancer MDT (SSMDT) evaluation such dominant type and uncommonly • The dominant cell the exception of
as advanced or metastatic MM and rare • Epithelioid cells dendritic cells. type in the VGP is hyperplastic RGP and
subtypes of MM.4,6 and dermis ranging Typically, atrophic epithelioid the variable frequency
from normal to epidermis • Desmoplasia, of regression
Surgical excision of primary melanoma hyperplastic • VGP with dominant neurotropism, • Lentiginous,
Suspected MM should undergo excision • Dominant type spindle and and regression are spindle, epithelioid
biopsy with a 2mm margin of normal skin to Epithelioid cells epithelioid cells uncommon or dendritic cells
confirm the diagnosis.4 Surgery is the only in the VGP, rarely • Desmoplasia, are found in RGP
curative treatment; wide local excision with with desmoplasia neurotropism and and spindle and
recommended margins (Table 13) is the and neurotropism. regression are epithelioid cells
mainstay of treatment to reduce the risk of Partial regression is common in VGP
loco-regional recurrence. The decision of common
appropriate margin will be determined in Table 10. The four main histological subtypes and their histological patterns.5

48 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


CLINICAL

STAGE PRIMARY TUMOUR LYMPH NODES (N) METASTASES (M)


(PT)
IA < 1 mm, no ulceration,
mitoses
< 1 mm)-2

IB < 1 mm, with ulceration


or mitoses ≥ 1 mm) -2
1.01–2 mm, no ulceration

IIA 1.01–2 mm, with


ulceration
2.01–4 mm, no
ulceration

IIB 2.01–4 mm, with


ulceration
> 4 mm, no ulceration

IIC > 4 mm, with ulceration

IIIA Any Breslow thickness, Micrometastases


no ulceration one to three nodes Figure 4. Therapeutic approaches for the
IIIB Any Breslow thickness, Micrometastases medical treatments for MM.3 Monoclonal
with ulceration one to three nodes antibodies improve the efficacy of the immune
system to identify and destroy malignant cells.
Any Breslow thickness, One to three Dabrafenib/vemurafenib: selective RAF inhibitors;
no ulceration palpable metastatic Cobimetinib/rametinib: selective MEK inhibitors;
nodes Ipilimumab: monoclonal antibody IgG1k anti-
Any Breslow thickness, CTLA-4; Nivolumab/pembrolizumab are PD-1
No nodes, but
no ulceration monoclonal antibodies IgG4 and IgG4k anti-PD-1.
in-transit or satellite
metastasis ⁄es
IIIC Any Breslow thickness, Up to three palpable
with ulceration lymph nodes
Any Breslow thickness, Four or more nodes
with or without or matted nodes or
ulceration
in-transit disease +
lymph nodes
Any Breslow thickness, No nodes, but
with ulceration in-transit or satellite
metastasis ⁄es
IV, Skin, subcutaneous
M1A or distant nodal
disease
IV, Lung metastases
M1B
IV, All other sites or
M1C any other sites of
metastases with
raised lactate
dehydrogenase
Table 11. The 2009 American Joint Committee (AJCC) Cancer staging system for MM expressed as TNM.
Thickness measured using the Breslow system.4

aestheticmed.co.uk Aesthetic Medicine 49


MALIGNANT MELANOMA

MDT with consideration of functional and Benign: Pre-malignant or malignant:


cosmetic. The histology should be reviewed
again following WLE to ensure adequacy • Seborrhoeic keratosis • Dysplastic naevi
of excision.4,6 • Benign melanocytic naevi • Squamous cell carcinoma
• Blue naevi • Pigmented basal cell carcinoma
Lymph node management • Vascular lesions such as • Pigmented actinic keratosis
The presence of nodal involvement is spider angiomas and pyogenic
the most important clinical predictor of granulomas
prognosis. Patients with primary melanoma Table 8. Differential diagnoses of MM.1
of stage IB-IIC with Breslow thickness
>1mm should be referred to SSMDT if this
provides a SLNB service for the purpose Poor prognostic markers Favourable markers
of contributing to the staging process.4,6
Radical dissection of the entire lymph • Increased tumour depth (Breslow thickness) • Purely desmoplastic
node basin is now only indicated where • Presence of ulceration
metastases is confirmed. Patients needs • Vertical growth phase
to be counselled carefully on the risks and • Increased mitotic count
benefits of this in view of a lack in good • Vascular or lymphatic infiltration
quality evidence for its effect on survival.6 • Perineural infiltration
• Microsatellites
Advanced and unresectable melanoma Table 12. Prognostic histological markers for MM.4
Treatment for all advanced cases of MM
or loco-regional recurrence should be
evaluated by SSMDT. Options are generally Breslow thickness Excision margin
palliative in nature and include surgical
excision, CO2 laser or isolated limb infusion In situ 5mm (complete histological
or perfusion.4 excision)
The benefits for radio and chemotherapy <1mm 1cm
are limited. Radiotherapy may be
considered in cases of doubt of the 1.01-2mm 1-2cm
adequacy of surgery following recurrence 2.1-4mm 2-3cm
or concerns regarding the feasibility of
salvage surgery.4 Chemotherapy may be >4mm 3cm
indicated for patients otherwise unsuitable Table 13. Recommended margins for wide local excision as recommended by
for targeted treatments, metastatic cases the BAD guidelines 2010.4 Thickness measured using the Breslow system.4
or disease progression despite surgery
or laser. Adjuvant chemotherapy lacks
evidence in regard to survival benefit.4 Therapy: Mode of action Description Candidates Examples

New treatments Targeted BRAF inhibitors Inhibit mutated patients with Vemurafenib
Significant progress in the biological therapy RAF protein V600E mutation Dabrefenib
understanding of MM during the last decade
has contributed to the development of new MEK inhibitors Inhibit in BRAF mutation Trametinib
targeted treatment options for advanced upregulated MEK
MM. This includes BRAF inhibitors as Immunotherapy CTLA-4 inhibitors Inhibition of Patients with no Ipilimumab
single agents, or in combination with a other aspects of BRAF mutation
MEK inhibitor as well as novel single or the carcinogenic or failed BRAF
combinational agent immunotherapies.6 pathway which in inhibition
These recent advances have improved turns increases
outcomes for advanced stage MM patients the likelihood of
significantly although the immunotherapies cancer cells T-cell
are associated with severe complications targeting
such as autoimmune toxicity. All patients
with advanced MM should therefore be PD-1 inhibitors Pembrolizumab,
tested for BRAF mutations and discussed Nivolumab
in SMDT.6 Table 14. New treatment modalities for MM3,4,6

50 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


CLINICAL

STAGE FOLLOW UP PATIENT IMAGING


Alternative treatments
A number of complementary and IN SITU MELANOMA None required
alternative medicine treatments are IA 3-4 monthly for a year Self-examination
available for MM including nutrition therapy,
neuropathic medicine, herbal medications, IB - IIIA 3-4 monthly for three
acupuncture and acupressure, years  6 monthly
hydrotherapy and meditation.7 The for two years
evidence base to support their use
is sparse.
IIIB AND ABOVE 3-4 monthly for three
PREVENTION AND FOLLOW-UP years  6 monthly
The general public – in particular, children for two years 12
monthly for five years
– should be advised to avoid sunburn.
Patients identified at risk of MM are advised IIC AND ABOVE Pet CT 6 monthly for
of life-long sun avoidance. This should be three years and 12
targeted to patients particularly at risk (see monthly for two
Table 1) in view of the suggested role of further years
vitamin D deficiency in the prevention of
other types of cancer as well as for general Table 15. BAD guidelines for follow-up of MM patients.4
health. At-risk patients should be advised
to supplement Vitamin D.2,4 Patients at high
risk should be referred for risk assessment Psycho-social implications of MM:
and education including monthly self-
examination1,2 but regular follow up is • Distressing emotions at time of diagnosis
not required.4 • Sun exposure anxiety
Patients at greatly increased risk should • Concerns regarding change in appearance disfigurement
receive life-long follow-ups by a specialist • Negative beliefs about skin cancer
due to the risk of malignant change.4 • Passive/avoidant coping style,
• Lack of social support
Psychosocial factors • Concerns about implications on self and others
The psychosocial implications of MM often • Concerns about ability to detect recurrence or anxiety
significantly affect patients’ and families’ around recurrence
quality of life. The prevalence of anxiety and • Mental health problems pre-existing the cancer diagnosis
depression in skin cancer patients • Inability to resume to previous activities, roles and responsibilities
has been reported at between 11- • Anxiety around being discharged from a specialist service
23%. A holistic needs assessment is • Hopelessness, sadness and concerns about the future and uncertainty
recommended at each point in the journey • Initiation of palliative care, death and bereavement
to identify particularly vulnerable patient • Reduction in emotional functioning and quality of life
groups. The specialist MDT can be a useful Table 16. Psychosocial factors to consider when assessing patients with MM.8
resource in identifying vulnerable patients
as well as facilitating referral to local
support services.8
REFERENCES
1. McCourt C, Dolan O, Gormley G. Malignant 5. www.dermnetnz.org (Accessed on 10th February
MM is an important condition with melanoma: a pictorial review. Ulster Med J. 2019 and 19th February 2019).
increasing incidence and high burden on 2014;83(2):103-10. 6. Brown ESR, Fraser SJ, Quaba O, Simms A, Stein A.
2. Royal College of Physicians and British Association Clinical Cutaneous melanoma: an updated SIGN
years of life lost. The importance of of Dermatologists. The prevention, diagnosis, referral guideline. Journal of the Royal College of Physicians
patient education, prevention of risk factors and management of melanoma of the skin: concise of Edinburgh. 2017;47(3); 214-217.
guidelines. Concise guidance to good practice series, 7. https://www.healthline.com/health/melanoma-
and early recognition of suspicious lesions No 7. London: RCP, 2007. alternative-treatments#alternative-treatments
is therefore great. Recent breakthroughs 3. Leonardi GC, Falzone L, Salemi R, et al. Cutaneous (Accessed 1st February 2019).
of MM’s complex molecular aetiology has melanoma: From pathogenesis to therapy (Review). 8. Hansen E. London Cancer North and East:
Int J Oncol. 2018;52(4):1071-1080. Psychosocial support for adult skin cancer patients.
thankfully lead to the development of new 4. Marsden JR, Newton-Bishop JA, Burrows L et al. 2013. www.londoncancer.org/media/76385/london-
therapies which have improved the outlook BAD Revised U.K. guidelines for the management of cancer-skin-psychosocial-support-guidelines-2013-
for advanced MM. Mapping of further cutaneous melanoma 2010. Br J British Journal of v1.0.pdf
Dermatology. 2010; 238–56.
genotypes is under investigation which is
promising for the future of MM.

aestheticmed.co.uk Aesthetic Medicine 51


COMMERCIAL FEATURE

Turn down
the
volume
Emma Chan shares how her lip treatments have
evolved in her 14 years in practice

ike many of the patients I see into my practice. They really revolutionised more than a 1ml treatment, but also deliver far

L in my practice today, I was


first attracted to what could
be achieved with aesthetic
the way I market to and treat patients
presenting for lip enhancement.
In the past, across most brands, products
superior results. Both Lips products benefit
from the use of Cohesive Polydensified
Matrix® (CPM) technology3, a combination
treatments when I started researching were only available in 0.5ml or 1ml syringes. of high and low-density zones that allows
them for myself back in 2007, ahead of my This undoubtedly influenced the industry and BELOTERO® products to “mimic”
upcoming wedding. our patients. Demands and pricing became tissue behaviour.
At the time, I was working as an advanced focused on volume treatments rather than The low density features of BELOTERO®
nurse practitioner in A&E, having just done the individual need of the patient. Patients Lips Contour2 ensures optimal dermal
my Master’s in Advanced Practice, and the even started requesting a 0.5ml or 1ml lip integration4, which makes it ideal for the
parts of my role which I enjoyed the most treatment, rather than presenting with a vermillion border and perioral wrinkles. The
were the practical parts. In A&E there were desire for a particular improvement or result. cohesivity helps prevent the undesirable
plenty of opportunities for me to work with my The BELOTERO® Lips Shape1 and Lips migration of product from the vermillion
hands, suturing and putting drains in, etc. My Contour2 products are presented in a 0.6ml border into the white lip. In contrast, Lips
husband was an NHS hospital consultant and syringe. BELOTERO® Lips Shape1 is perfect for Shape is highly elastic to support tissue with
I knew that two of us working shifts wouldn‘t volume enhancement or correcting volume an amazing ability to resist shear stress and
work if we were to have a family. Aesthetics loss in the ageing lip, while BELOTERO® Lips return to its original shape. These rheological
brought together all my interests and it felt like Contour2 is a much more cohesive product, properties are ideal in a highly dynamic area.
the right time to look at training. ideal for treatment of the vermillion border A common presentation to an aesthetic
and perioral lines. clinic is the desire to enhance lip volume and
THE CHANGING FACE OF LIPS Over the past couple of years, I have create and improve the lip outline and Cupid’s
Back when I first started in aesthetics, we witnessed changing trends – a move away bow. In addition, in ageing lips, refining perioral
didn’t have the conferences and the journals from the over-enhanced lip, an increased wrinkles is also a common request. To treat
that we have today. We didn’t even have a desire and demand for natural enhancement the presenting concerns, products with varied
rep for the major brands for the whole of the and correction of overfilled lips. This rheology are required to achieve optimal
North West of England, so you were only really pattern has been seen across all age groups, results. This could be costly for patients and
introduced to and guided towards products with younger patients seeking a natural for the clinic, especially if only a small amount
through your basic training. Dermal fillers enhancement and older patients seeking of a specific product was required. There has
are one of the main stays of any aesthetic restoration. This observation, along with certainly been a temptation to try to make a
practice, and lip treatments have continued the timely launch of the BELOTERO® Lips single product fit the patient’s needs in order
to grow in popularity since I first started. products, prompted me to change the way to come in on budget, and I have seen the
Product selection is absolutely key, not I market and deliver lip treatments in my undesirable results of this first hand.
only for natural outcomes but also for safety practice, and gave me an opportunity to move
and efficacy. It was always important to me away from volume-focused treatments and A CASE STUDY WITH BELOTERO® LIPS
to stick to products from the market leaders offer something different. SHAPE1 AND CONTOUR2
that had plenty of clinical data. As my practice The Lip Duo treatment was created as an The patient presented to clinic requesting
grew along with the industry, there was more alternative to the 0.5ml or 1ml treatment. enhancement of the lips. No previous dermal
opportunity for me to look at other products Utilising the BELOTERO® Lips Shape1 and filler treatment had been performed. On
that I became aware of through going Contour2 0.6ml products, I was able to assessment, it was clear that enhancing the
to conferences. combine the properties of fine line and lips in isolation would not achieve best results.
I was already using some of the Merz volumising fillers. This gave me flexibility In fact, it was felt that it may even further
Aesthetics portfolio but the big game changer to treat a range of deficiencies as well as highlight areas of deficiency. Following a
for me was the introduction of BELOTERO® to beautify the central lower face and lips. consultation and analysis with the patient, a
Lips Shape1 and BELOTERO® Lips Contour2 Treatments are priced accordingly, slightly tailored approach was delivered.

52 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


COMMERCIAL FEATURE
MERZ AESTHETICS

Top: before, Bottom: after Top: before, Bottom: after

ASSESSMENT face, with very little product used within of what is being injected into their lips is
There was volume loss to the upper white lip them. The treatment of the surrounding paramount. The BELOTERO® Lip Duo
marionette region and the development of areas of deficiency has removed shadows, treatment offers us as nurse practitioners
nasolabial folds was creating shadows and lifted the tissues and improved contours an opportunity to re-educate our patients
uneven transitions. There was also loss of and transitions, overall, delivering much and to put an end to the culture of them
volume and proportion, in particular in more than a “lip enhancement” with great requesting lip fillers by the ml. By using a
the lower lateral lip as well as dynamic economy of product and a reasonable price blend of products, lip filler treatments can
perioral lines. point for clients. be tailored to individual patients for more
Additional benefits are the fantastic natural-looking results.
TREATMENT PLAN before and afters achieved. This provides Those looking to gain more knowledge
1. To restore volume to the white upper great content to market the Lip Duo of the products and techniques used
lip and improve contours on the lateral Treatment with that is not comparable to a to achieve great results in the lip area
aspects as well as the commonly seen traditional volume lip treatment. Educating should take a look at the BELOTERO® Lips
vertical lines of tissue weakness from the oral patients is also important to understand the Masterclass webinar from The Merz Medical
commissures. potentially undesirable results often seen Institute. You can access the webinars at
2. To define the lip border, creating a sharp from using the wrong product in the wrong merzwebinars.com.
lip outline and Cupid’s bow. place. For example, product migration and
3. To improve lip proportion by volumising distortion of the lip outline from the use of a
the lip body, with particular attention to the volumising lip filler into the vermillion border.
lower lip. REFERENCES
4. To improve the nasolabial and CONCLUSION 1. IFU – BELOTERO Lips Shape.
2. IFU – BELOTERO Lips Contour.
marionette region. Product selection plays a key role in 3. Sundaram & Fagien 2015 Cohesive
providing natural-looking lip- filler Polydensified Matirs Hyaluronic Acid for Fine
Lines. Plast Recon Surg. 136:149S, 2015
TREATMENT treatments. We must start to move away 4. Micheels, P. et al. Effect of Different Crosslinking
BELOTERO® Lips Contour2 was used in the from lip treatments which look unnatural and Technologies on Hyaluronic Acid Behavior:
upper white lip, vermillion border, upper lip overdone and towards those that enhance A Visual and Microscopic Study of Seven
Hyaluronic Acid Gels. J Drugs Dermatol. 2016
body and oral commissures, with a total of our patients’ features, not overpower them. May 1;15(5):600-6
0.6ml used. BELOTERO® Lips Shape1 was Educating your patients about the safety,
used in the lower lip, inferior nasolabial lines tolerability, clinical evidence and efficacy
and marionette region, with a total of 0.6ml.
M-BEL-UKI-0963 Date of Preparation January 2021
RESULTS This advertorial is sponsored by Merz Aesthetics UK & Ireland
Using a combination of products enabled
me to achieve improvement in multiple
areas of the central lower face. The lips For more information visit merz-aesthetics.co.uk, @merzaesthetics.uki on
have now become a feature of the lower Instagram or Merz Aesthetics UK & Ireland on Facebook

aestheticmed.co.uk Aesthetic Medicine 53


SIGNATURE TREATMENTS

Personal

Top: before, Bottom: immediately after InclinEyes treatment

best
Dr Joshua Van der Aa gives an insight into the process
of creating a signature injectable treatment, and tells
us the story behind his own

DR JOSHUA VAN DER AA


Dr Joshua Van der Aa is an injection-focused cosmetic practitioner specialising in
rejuvenation of the peri-orbital area. He is a graduate of Leuven University’s Medical
School in Belgium. Before opening Dr Joshua Harley Street Aesthetics in 2020, he
worked in some of the best-known, award-winning clinics in London and Europe.
Follow him on Instagram: @drjoshualondon

eneration Z model and it-girl Bella Hadid has never visited my clinic, but her name

G is ever-present inside these four walls. For the past two years at least, the way her
eyes look has triggered more patient enquiries (both in person and via my inbox)
than perhaps any other external influence. She’s not the reason I set out to create
a new treatment technique, but on some subconscious level, her sway at the outset
is undeniable.

54 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


CLINICAL

Top: before, Bottom: immediately after InclinEyes+ treatment (addition of tear trough filler)

I launched my first signature treatment, InclinEyes, in May. It uses the treatment is overdone, sometimes giving the patient an alien-like
dermal filler to achieve lifted brows, enhanced symmetry and subtly appearance, albeit very temporarily.
elongated eyes. It was born out of a mix of concern from first-hand
observations in my clinic, and a fixation and determination to solve ANOTHER WAY
a “puzzle”. It was becoming perplexing and troubling to be routinely My starting point was literally to ponder whether there could be a way
met with as many young female patients asking for “eyes like Bella” to achieve that more open and winged-eye effect without any need
as the number I had to counsel who had undergone unsuccessful for forcibly hoisting the brow tail into unnatural angles. I began by
or unsightly “Bella” treatments elsewhere. “Can I undo it without deconstructing the eye region to its natural anatomy and assessing
surgery?”, they would ask. I felt strongly there was a big need for a which parts needed to be augmented in which patients to achieve
safe, predictable and reproducible treatment to improve eye shape optimal results. I studied the minimally invasive work of great plastic
and brow position. So, my task became to do this convincingly and surgeons and set about comparing this to the relevant local anatomy. It
minus the surgical sutures. made me believe that a certain improvement in the shape of the brow
and eye is achievable.
THE FOX EYE TRAP I’ve had a long-held fascination with treating the temples and
One of the biggest beauty misconceptions in circulation right now upper eyelids from a rejuvenation point of view, and over more than
is the belief that Bella Hadid has had a “fox-eye” thread lift. She’s 12 months, I found a duplicable way that gently raises the brow tail by
publicly denied it and I share in the opinion that her covetable eye adding volume, while also improving the appearance of the canthal
shape most likely results from a specific surgical brow lift and perhaps tilt, or inclination, of the eye, resulting in a more feminine, almond-
a canthopexy, further emphasised at times by the application of eye shape and a youthful, lifted brow. For this treatment, I found, it’s
accentuating make-up. Nonetheless, the increasing popularity of a combination of addressing both bony volume deficit as well as
fox-eye thread lifts to achieve, non-surgically, the look that has social strategically optimising fullness in certain fat pads in the brow and
media buzzing, means there is a large demand in the market for eyelid area.
treatments that can elevate the eyebrow position and elongate eyes. It was at this point that InclinEyes was born and also when I realised
Unfortunately, in my opinion, fox-eye threads not only over- that I had to take my medical hat off and put on the business one. I’d
promise and under-deliver on results, but they can also come with done the hard work, even given it a name, and now I had to promote it
substantial risks. Personally, I don’t condone the fox-eyes thread lift and protect it if I was going to get it out there, which meant registering
treatment; it can cause significant swelling and downtime and carries the trademark. That’s not something that came naturally to me but,
risks such as scarring, visible threads, dimples, puckering of the skin for the benefit of fellow clinicians yet to attempt it, I can say I found it
and long-lasting pain. From what I’ve seen, this type of threads rarely relatively straightforward, albeit occasionally nail-biting. I began with
last longer than two weeks to two months. Where brow thread lifting a search to confirm nobody else in our industry grouping was using
is concerned, the risks far outweigh the rewards. Add to that, often, it. Then it was just a case of working my way, step-by-step, through

aestheticmed.co.uk Aesthetic Medicine 55


SIGNATURE TREATMENTS

Top: before, Bottom: immediately after InclinEyes+ treatment (addition of tear trough filler)

the application process, a final review, and with nervous excitement, distinctly – repositions the brow tail and creates that more desirable
clicking “submit”. Be prepared for a wait of about three months for the outer-eye slope. Crucially, it’s also safer because it’s fully reversible,
trademark to be filed, during which time it can also be challenged. That and this was a key motivator for me given that I see so many patients
was the nerve-racking part. stuck with tension and rippling from threads. Downtime is minimal;
often there’s none but in some cases it’s no more than a mild swelling
EYES WIDE OPEN for about 10 days at most, which is so slight it wouldn’t be noticeable
As with most treatments, the InclinEyes process begins with careful to others. What’s more, because the treatment uses fillers exclusively,
and considered selection of the patients; arriving at mutually agreeable and no toxin or threads, a safe, predictable and long-lasting effect
outcomes is always key, with the proviso from me that the end result is achieved. In some cases, patients can also have a second or third
can only ever look natural, of course. The ideal candidates are patients treatment, and after these additional treatments it’s not unusual to
with generally sad, droopy or tired-looking eyes, with a heavy or hollow have results that last for up to two years.
appearance and minimal excess eyelid skin. Essentially though, Alongside InclinEyes, I’ve introduced InclinEyes+, which includes
anyone who goes into this with the right expectations will benefit from bespoke options adaptable to each face. In essence, this adds
the treatment. I find that in older patients, with skin draped over the affordable treatments for people who are suffering from volume loss in
eyelashes, a surgical intervention, such as upper eyelid correction, is the surrounding areas that act as scaffold to the eye area. If this is the
advisable first. case, it’s important to address these at the same time to ensure optimal
Using a cannula, I gently administer a soft, light hyaluronic-acid results of the InclinEyes treatment itself. Usually, this is either in the
product that integrates well in the delicate tissue around the eye area. temple or tear trough regions.
Teosyal by Teoxane is a good choice but I’m also trialling a couple more.
There are no toxins, threads or other devices used. – the treatment LOOKING AHEAD
consists entirely of filler. In a nutshell, what InclinEyes involves is So, is InclinEyes the new “fox eyes”? In short, no. And neither would I
strategic volume optimisation of the periorbital bone and fatty tissue to want it to be. I’d rather it was considered the elegant, safer and more
improve the appearance of the inclination of the brow and the canthal natural-looking alternative. After all, this procedure’s effect will work
tilt (the apparent tilt of the eye itself). To what extent this happens somewhat differently with each individual face, and that’s the key. Like
is dependent on factors that vary from patient to patient, unique to many of my colleagues, I believe our role is not to promote a single
each face. The outcome is always a more youthful and lifted, open beauty ideal, encourage trends, or change or distort a face to look a
and sensual look, which is arguably more credible and natural looking certain, prescribed way. It’s not about giving my patients eyes like Bella
because it’s less extreme than fox-eye threads. I couldn’t be more Hadid’s, it’s about introducing them to a new opportunity to appear
delighted with the results so far and with patients’ reactions to them. refreshed, brighter and wider-eyed, if that’s what they want. I think less in
Unlike a brow lift with botulinum toxin that lasts three to four months, terms of lifting brows because I believe the most important thing I can
InclinEyes lasts for 12. And unlike existing upper eyelid fillers, this – quite lift with my work as an aesthetic doctor is someone’s spirit.

56 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


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58 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


CLINICAL

he lip lift – a surgical procedure mouth has a natural gape. This gape is very

T that involves shortening


the amount of skin on show
between the nose and the
attractive and tends to be desirable to
patients, but if it is already there, doing a
lip lift can increase it and make closing the
mouth to make the upper lip look fuller and mouth difficult, making things look unnatural.
lifted – is not a new procedure, but demand The lip lift is potentially suitable for a patient
has increased among my clients within the with lax skin around the mouth, but as above,
last two years or so. [At the time of writing, patients suitable for this procedure have to
the hashtag “lip lift” has 14.6 million views be very carefully selected. It won’t be right
on TikTok]. It’s not one of my “signature” for everyone.
procedures, yet I have definitely seen an During the procedure, a “bullhorn”-shaped
uplift in patients enquiring about it. I believe piece of skin is removed from just under
the reasons for this are the same as to the nose. This can be done as skin only, and
why rhinoplasties have massively risen in it can also be combined with moving the
popularity over the last year, too. With us underlying muscle upwards as well (a “deep
spending a lot of time staring at a mirror plane” lip lift). A lip lift can be done under
image of ourselves on video conferencing local anaesthetic (unless the patient has real
calls and webinars, people may have noticed objection to this, in which case it can be done
things about themselves that previously under general). The area to be removed will
they wouldn’t have done. I think a secondary be drawn up on the skin and we can pinch
reason for the lip lift’s rise in popularity is the area to show the effect. The marked-up
that many people now want a more natural skin is then removed. The operation takes
enhancement for their lips, which the lip roughly 45 minutes to 1 hour.
lift procedure does very well. Lastly, it’s
permanent, so for someone who spends a lot LIFT OFF
of money on fillers, and providing they’re the The trickiest part of this operation is stitching
right candidate for treatment, it can be a everything back together. We have to do this
great, cost-saving alternative in the long in layers so it looks natural and use certain
run, as long as they get it done for the right techniques so it doesn’t pull down on the
reasons. You’re also much more likely to get nose. We almost never use just one layer
a more natural-looking result with a lip lift to close after surgery. Instead, we close the
compared to injectables as the skin is pulled different layers – muscle, fascial, deep skin,
up rather than pushed out. and the outside skin layer. With a lip lift it will
It’s somewhat obvious but important to be most common to close in two or three
point out that unlike injectables, this is a layers. The outside layer will be closed with
permanent treatment. In select cases, a lip non-dissolving stitches; everything inside
lift can be performed on patients who have will tend to be dissolvable sutures. As this
previously received filler. Therefore, those procedure is most commonly performed
that have fillers regularly seem to be the under local anaesthetic, patients can be out
most interested in the procedure as this is of the operating room once the procedure
a permanent way to achieve a fuller-looking is finished. Stitches will need to be removed
upper lip, negating the need for further after a week. I advise patients that they may
regular injectables. If desired, patients are wish to take 10 days to two weeks off work as
able to receive filler after a lip lift, but I’d downtime. Once the stitches are out and the
always refer them to a specialist in lip filler, area is dry, the scar can be hidden
as it would obviously be a more complex with concealer.
treatment than usual. The main side effects seem to be mild
scabbing and swelling as the incision settles
SCULPTING SHAPE down. Patients often recall the sensation
My approach to this procedure is not about as a bit like having a thick lip – a similar
volume, especially in the upper lip. Rather, sensation as following dental work. Swelling
it is all about shape and proportions – is usually completely gone after three weeks
the lower lip is naturally larger than the and there is a risk of bruising following the
upper. Bad filler to the upper lip swaps this procedure. Again, it’ll usually disappear after
relationship and can make things look quite a couple of weeks. I normally advise patients
fake. Lip lifts are fantastic at improving to drink from a straw for a couple of weeks
shape, proportion and perception; however, post-surgery, but other than that, it’s a fairly
careful patient selection is key. An example straightforward procedure with minimal
of someone who wouldn’t be suitable is downtime or impact on everyday life
a patient with a long upper lip where the during recovery.

aestheticmed.co.uk Aesthetic Medicine 59


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60 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


TREATMENT REVIEW

All
in one

Georgia Seago reviews the HydroFacial Plus


at 111 Harley Street

THE LOWDOWN with the skin) to bring oxygen-rich blood to the surface. Next, she
Cosmeceutical skincare brand 111SKIN gets its name from the used the aqua vortex handpiece again to perform an aqua peel to
location of founder Dr Yannis Alexandrides’s plastic-surgery practice address my pores and blackheads, followed by the infusion action
in central London. Alongside face and body surgical procedures, to push a blend of topical growth factors into my skin to support its
injectables, PRP, IV therapy, laser and more, clients can now repair, maintain protective functions and promote elasticity.
also visit for an advanced non-invasive, no-downtime facial with Samia then applied her favourite 111SKIN product, Celestial Black
HydroFacial Plus (not to be confused with HydraFacial). Diamond Serum – formulated to improve firmness and elasticity,
Combining multiple modalities into one platform, the device uses address hyperpigmentation and brighten the skin – and passed over
water-based hydrodynamic vortex technology to cleanse, exfoliate my skin with the radiofrequency handpiece to increase penetration
and brighten the skin as a basic treatment, extracting deeply-lodged and plump the skin. The last tech stage was a gentle massage
impurities and hydrating the dermis. The suction created can also with the de-puffing cryo handpiece over the top of Y Theorem Bio
be used to reduce water retention for mild lymphatic drainage, for Cellulose full-face sheet mask and Celestial Black Diamond Eye
a temporarily more sculpted face. However, the device has several Mask, which sit under the eyes.
add-on handpieces that allow aesthetic therapists to take the Finally, Samia applied Antioxidant Energising Essence followed by
treatment and its benefits for clients’ skin further. These include Celestial Black Diamond Day Cream Light and Eye Cream, then
oxygen infusion, cryo-heat, Bohr, ultrasound and multi-polar sun protection.
radiofrequency. The treatment also allows multiple opportunities
for 111SKIN products to be layered and/or infused into the skin. THE VERDICT
Even though my HydroFacial Plus treatment was completely
THE EXPERIENCE relaxing throughout, it’s a hardworking treatment that left my skin
I had my treatment with aesthetician Samia Vazir. We were also plump, glowing and lifted. The ability to mix and match modalities
doing some IPL for pigmentation at the same appointment, but depending on what the client needs on that day sets this apart from
we started with the HydroFacial Plus. After talking about my skin other similar platforms and negates the need for multiple different
concerns (mainly dullness and blackheads) she first double- devices in clinic. The treatment (or elements of it) can also be done
cleansed with an exfoliating cleanser. Samia decided we’d do a in combination with other more advanced skin procedures such
deep cleanse with the aqua vortex handpiece followed by Bohr as laser, IPL and needling. It’s a great all-rounder for rough texture,
exfoliation with CO2 bubbles (which fizzes and foams on contact blackheads, dryness, dehydration and dullness.

aestheticmed.co.uk Aesthetic Medicine 61


NEW PRODUCTS

111SKIN Revision Skincare


The luxury cosmeceutical DEJ Eye Cream from Revision
skincare brand has reformulated Skincare is billed as an all-in-
its Celestial Black Diamond one eye treatment to combat
Neck & Décolletage Serum. Now visible signs of ageing in the area.
containing 111SKIN’s signature Fomulated to address the upper
diamond delivery system to eyelid and create the appearance
penetrate and treat the thin skin of more lifted, firmer and smoother
on the neck and décolletage, the skin, the cream utilises the brand’s
serum is formulated to address sun pathway technology and prebiotic
damage, dryness and dehydration. innovation. Key ingredients include
It contains a peptide complex alpha-glucan oligosaccharide,
to lift, firm and tone; lactic acid amino acid copper complex,
to smooth skin texture and help goji fruit extract, THD ascorbate
fade stubborn discolouration; and palmitoyl tripeptide-38. The
a moisture complex with cream also works to target sagging,
humectants and polysaccharides hooding and redness around the
to draw water to the dermal layer; eye area and shields against
and NAC Y2, a blend of amino acids, free radicals.
antioxidants and vasoprotectors
to help skin work at an optimised
function, neutralising free radicals
and brightening the area.

Institute BCN
Spanish mesotherapy laboratory Institute BCN has
developed a skincare line called BCN Prebiotics.
The line comprises four products developed to
help restore the skin’s microbiome and maintain
the balance of the microbiota. Ideal for patients
who have recently undergone medical aesthetic
treatments, the products contain prebiotic active
ingredients along with highly moisturising, antioxidant
and anti-ageing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid,
sugars and natural moisturising factors, aloe vera and
avenanthramide. The products are: Balance Serum,
Shield Cream, Intense Repair Concentrate and
Scrub Exfoliator.

62 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


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NEW PRODUCTS

Swissline
Swiss skincare brand Swissline has
launched in the UK with Skinbrands,
distributor of brands including
Medik8, Priori and Revitalash.
Swissline takes a biotech approach
to its products and formulations,
drawing on DNA research and natural
actives. Products include the Cell
Shock line of anti-ageing formulas
with bio-mimetic growth factors,
marine collagen, silk, gold and the
brand’s signature cellactel 2 complex.
The line comprises Luxe-lift Rich
Cream, 360° Anti-Wrinkle Serum,
Face Lifting Complex II, Facial
Boosting-Essence, Overnight Balm,
and more.

iS Clinical
New from iS Clinical is Liperfection Trio and Extreme Protect Duo. The
Liperfection Trio comprises three lip products to exfoliate, hydrate,
soften and plump the lips: Lip Polish, with sucrose, vitamin C and
cocoa butter; Youth Lip Elixir, containing antioxidant extremozymes,
vitamin C and cocoa butter; and Liprotect SPF 35, with transparent
zinc oxide dispersion, transparent titanium dioxide dispersion and
coconut oil. Meanwhile, the Extreme Protect Duo pairs Extreme
Protect SPF 40 – a tinted, water-resistant sunscreen with antioxidant
extremozyme technology – with Liprotect SPF 35.

Croma
Austrian pharma company Croma-Pharma
is introducing a new skincare brand to its
portfolio. Croma Farewell (“farewell to ageing
skin”, for example) will initially launch with five
hyaluronic acid-based serums, all containing
both high and low-molecular weight HA.
Irritated Skin is for sensitive skin and contains
madecassoside, niacinamide and D-panthenol
to soothe, reduce redness and strengthen
the skin’s barrier; and Puffy Eyes helps fight
the appearance of puffiness, dark circles and
crow’s feet with ash tree bark extract, organic
silicon and vitamin B3. Also available are Dry
Skin, Aging Skin and Oily Skin.

64 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


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NEW PRODUCTS

HydraFacial
HydraFacial’s latest skincare partnership is
with cosmeceutical skincare brand Murad on
the Murad Retinol Booster. Designed for use
with the HydraFacial device to personalise the
treatment, the Booster helps accelerate skin
surface renewal, plumping to visibly reduce
the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while
treating uneven skin tone and dullness. It
contains a patented retinol tri-active technology
for rapid action while being gentle on the skin,
making it suitable for all skin types
including sensitive.

Noon Aesthetics
There are two new cleansers in the
Noon Aesthetics cosmeceutical
skincare range, distributed by
Advanced Esthetics Solutions.
CosmoClear Cleanser is a
purifying and moisturising
cleanser that removes excess
oil and impurities from the skin.
It includes active ingredients
glycolic, lactic and salicylic
acids, along with moisturising
compounds and chamomile
Pollogen extract. Meanwhile, Micro-Soft
A new Oxypod treatment capsule is available for the Pollogen Cleanser is a microemulsion
Geneo+ device for advanced aesthetic facial treatments. The formula that is ideal for make-
Hydrate Oxypod with blue spirulina, niacinamide and lactobionic up removal. It contains organic
acid is formulated to revive dry, dull and dehydrated skin. The macadamia oil, rich in palmitoleic
active ingredients work together to hydrate skin and replenish its acid to contribute to healthy
moisture-retention abilities. They are stored in their suspended skin function. Other ingredients
state within the Oxypod and are activated only in reaction with include lavender floral water
Geneo+’s primer gel. and squalene.

Vivacy
French aesthetics brand Laboratories Vivacy has
launched the Vivacy Beauty clinical skincare range
to sit alongside its Stylage HA dermal fillers. The
products contain the brand’s vivasôme anti-ageing
complex, based on active encapsulation through
liposomes. These liposomes create a pathway
through the skin’s outer layers for optimal ingredient
penetration (sorbitol, stabilised vitamin C, hyaluronic
acid and mineral water from Treignac in France.
The six products in the range are: Eye Ultim Lift to
rejuvenate the eye contour, regenerating serum Cell
Shot, reconstructing cream Age Reboost, hydrating
cream Hydra Touch, skincare mineral water Mist and
soothing, post-procedure Hyalu Calm.

66 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


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FACETITE AND MORPHEUS8

Double
win
Dr Judy Todd tells us how she combined minimally
invasive liposuction with RF microneedling for
ultimate results with little downtime

DR JUDY TODD
Dr Judy Todd runs Synergy Clinic in Glasgow. She graduated from the University of
Glasgow Faculty of Medicine in 1995 and started her career in aesthetic medicine
in 2005. She is also a consultant anaesthetist with the NHS and a Fellow of the
Royal College of Anaesthetists. Follow her on Instagram: @dr_judy_todd

CONSULTATION
My patient was 45-year-old Lauren Simon, who appears on reality TV show The Real
Housewives of Cheshire. She came to me wanting to rejuvenate her appearance following her
divorce, specifically concerned with redefining her jawline, reducing submental fat under the
chin and generally improving her skin texture.
From my initial consultation I could see that Lauren was a good candidate for FaceTite. She
had moderate amounts of loose skin and excess fat on the face and neck. The deposits of
fat were located under the jawline, which gave her a double chin, and there was a moderate
degree of skin laxity. Due to her olive skin, she didn’t suffer from fine lines but there were
enlarged pores and a pronounced nasolabial fold, both of which could be significantly
improved with Morpheus8 radiofrequency microneedling and FaceTite non-surgical advanced
contouring, both treatments from InMode. For the loose skin and excess fat, we opted for a
combined treatment of FaceTite and NeckTite. This combined therapy of the three procedures
is known as Refine RF in the US.
FaceTite is a minimally invasive advanced contouring system that uses a cannula inserted
below the skin to “burn away” fatty tissue, employing a directional radiofrequency thermal field
which reduces fat coagulation and provides tissue remodelling. There is a dual-temperature
system which provides greater safety and control, focusing the energy concentration in the
treatment zone. NeckTite works in a similar way but focuses on the fatty tissue under the
jawline and chin. The system automatically shuts off when it reaches a maximum temperature
and issues an alert noise to the aesthetician, and there is also a guide on the exterior which
shows the exact position of the cannula tip.
All treatments were to be conducted at the clinic on the same day, with the total treatment
time projected at just a little over two hours.

68 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


CASE STUDY

Left: before, Right: three months after treatment

TREATMENT PLAN conducted at two depths, at 0.4mm for


Lauren was given tumescent anaesthesia fat contraction and at 0.2mm for skin
under the jawline and around the cheeks rejuvenation and contraction of pores. For me,
to prepare her for the NeckTite and one of the great advantages of the Morpheus8
FaceTite procedures. This also provided treatment is that I can provide skin tightening
hydrodissection for the cannula to navigate right into the delicate eye area, and Lauren
through the subcutaneous fat layer. The had the treatment on the lower lids and to
treatment is minimally invasive and is, in my reduce crow’s feet at the sides of her eyes.
opinion, the next best alternative to facelifts
without the invasive surgery. First, I performed RESULTS
NeckTite to the fatty tissue under the jawline After the treatment, Lauren was given a
and chin. Then, moving onto FaceTite, the compression bandage for her face which she
cannula went in close to the ear and was then was told to wear for the next few days. She was
moved across towards the nose within the concerned how long the downtime would be
fat layer above the SMAS. Between four and as she leads a very active social life, but it was
five movements were applied in a fan-like only a little over 24 hours in her case; she had
shape so that the whole of the cheek area was the treatment on Friday afternoon and was
covered, and this was repeated on both sides able to enjoy a Sunday lunch out with friends
of the face. Total treatment time was around the same weekend.
an hour including the anaesthesia. At all times Lauren is thrilled with the results of
Lauren was conscious and comfortable; she her treatment; her jawline is much more
was aware of the procedure but not in any pronounced, her skin texture and pores are
pain. Approximately 15-20ml of fatty tissue hugely improved, and the double chin has
was extracted from the jawline and cheeks been almost entirely irradicated. The time for
with some gentle liposuction. Aspirating the results of the procedures to fully develop
some of this reduces downtime and post- was just under three months. There is some
operative swelling. initial swelling from FaceTite post-procedure,
The Morpheus8 treatment followed but this goes down quickly and then the
immediately afterwards. The tumescent contraction takes a couple of months to
anaesthesia provided adequate pain relief in finish. The treatments have given Lauren so
the lower face, but Lauren’s upper face was much more confidence to get back out again
prepped with an anaesthetic cream an hour socially after a difficult divorce and have truly
prior to treatment. The treatment itself lasted given her a new lease of life. She is so grateful
around 45 minutes with the microneedling for everything we’ve done for her.

aestheticmed.co.uk Aesthetic Medicine 69


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CASE STUDY

Left: before, Right: immediately after one treatment

Body
beautiful
Dr Martin Kinsella shares one of his first case
studies using new PLLA collagen–stimulant
Lanluma X for buttock enhancement

DR MARTIN KINSELLA
Dr Martin Kinsella MBChB BDS BACD has practised for over 16 years as an
anti-ageing cosmetic doctor, primarily from his lead clinic Re-enhance in Hale,
Cheshire. He also has clinics in Yorkshire and London and makes frequent trips to
Mallorca to see patients and worldwide to train other cosmetic doctors.

aestheticmed.co.uk Aesthetic Medicine 73


INJECTABLE BUTTOCK ENHANCEMENT

Left: before, Right: immediately after one treatment

espite causing death in one in 3,000 cases1, the number TREATMENT PLAN

D of people opting for buttock enhancement by fat transfer


(commonly referred to as a Brazilian Butt Lift or BBL) has
more than doubled in the last five years.1 The procedure
After marking and sterilising the area, sterile water is drawn into the
Lanluma syringe and slowly added to the vial containing the product
(in a dry powder format). The vial has to be shaken for ten minutes
involves taking fat from areas of the body where it’s not wanted and for optimal injectability and then left to stand for one hour to ensure
transplanting it into the glutes to enlarge them. However, injecting fat complete hydration. The product should then be strongly agitated
into the buttock can easily lead to serious problems if done incorrectly. immediately prior to use for one minute.
Complications can include a fat embolism, when fat enters the I made one entry point per side with a cannula. An instant result
bloodstream and blocks a blood vessel. In the lungs, for example, it was visible on Sarah on the day of treatment, but as the building of
blocks oxygen from entering the bloodstream, while in the brain it can collagen takes several weeks to months, patients will likely need several
cause a stroke. injections to see improvement in volume and shape, depending on
While many patients opt for a buttock enhancement for aesthetic their needs. Sarah received one injection to each side of the buttocks
reasons, other patients look to treat the area after losing a significant and is due to return in four weeks’ time [at the time of writing] for a
amount of weight, to address serious disfigurement after pelvic second session. I used one vial per side and will use one or two per side
trauma, or if they are experiencing practical problems, such as holding for the second treatment. The number of vials used should be based on
up trousers. However, in all cases the aim of treatment should be to the patient’s response to the product during the first session and the
enhance the shape of the buttock and texture of the skin as opposed to intended outcome of treatment. For older patients with an “A-shape”
completely changing and distorting the patient’s natural shape. buttocks, two vials per side may be recommened for the first session.
Now, we have a non-surgical, safe alternative to a BBL in the form of Downtime is minimal, and Sarah was provided with an aftercare
Lanluma X, an injectable poly-L-Lactic acid (PLLA) collagen stimulant guide to follow for the next few days following treatment.Advice includes
for the body. The treatment adds volume and re-shapes the buttock massaging the area vigorously for a few seconds every day for at least
area to enhance the curve and shape of the buttocks without surgery two weeks to reduce the risk of nodules and/or granulomas; and the use
or indeed, a high risk of complications. Lanluma works very differently of bandaging or compressive underwear following treatment to hold the
than other kinds of dermal fillers. Instead of simply adding volume in shape of the buttocks.
the way that hyaluronic acid ingredients would, Lanluma’s ingredients
kick-start the body’s natural collagen production mechanism. Since RESULTS
collagen is the protein that gives the skin its structure and shape, The results of the treatment are visible and yet incredibly in keeping
Lanluma injections perfectly create a curved shape that looks natural with Sarah’s natural shape. The improvements are three-fold. Firstly,
and, importantly, fits with the patient’s body type. there is an improvement in volume. This in turn achieves lifting of each
buttock, and thirdly, we see an improvement in skin texture which
CONSULTATION reduces the appearance of cellulite and skin dimpling, and this will only
Sarah, 44, presented as a patient who was concerned about the shape improve over time. Sarah is delighted with her results and told me her
of her buttocks having exercised regularly over a number of years confidence sky-rocketed. We are both looking forward to seeing how
and for a considerable amount of time. She explained that she would the results develop following her second treatment.
work out up to seven days a week with endless squats but struggled
to achieve the desired look in increasing the size of the buttocks. As a
patient who was very focused on reversing the signs of ageing, Sarah felt
that her buttocks did not necessarily reflect her age and the rest of her
REFERENCES
1. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28369293/
body. Lanluma was suggested to enhance the shape and fullness of
the buttocks.

74 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


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aestheticmed.co.uk Aesthetic Medicine 75


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INJECTABLE HAND LIFT

Tell-tale
signs
The hands are often the first place to show signs of
ageing. Dr Aamer Khan shares a hand–rejuvenation
treatment using a collagen–stimulating injectable

DR AAMER KHAN
Dr Aamer Khan is co-founder of Harley Street Skin and has dedicated the past
16 years to performing cosmetic and non-surgical procedures for thousands
of patients. He has knowledge in diverse areas including human psychology,
psychiatry, surgery and dermatology. Follow him on Instagram: @dr.aamerkhan

Before the Harley Street Hand Lift

78 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


CASE STUDY

he skin on the hands ages subcutaneous layer of the skin on the backs

T much quicker than skin


on other areas of the body
because it is constantly
of the hands. The results are immediate
– volume is restored, dilated and bulging
veins diminish, and ageing hands look
exposed to the environment (including years younger. In the weeks that follow, as
sunlight), has fewer oil glands, and is fibroblasts and newer collagen are formed,
continuously stressed by the movements of skin quality improves with tighter looking,
the hands and regular washing. more youthful skin. Fibroblasts are also
Post-menopausal women find that found in the subcutaneous fat, and their
there is an accelerated deterioration in stimulation also serves to increase the
the collagen in their skin (from 1% per year thickness of this layer. The results can last up
to 1.5% per year) due to lack of oestrogen. to three years.1
As the years go by, crêpey skin, prominent
veins and volume loss on the hands reveal CONSULTATION
our true age faster than any other part When treating the hands, it is incumbent upon
of the body. Using injectables can visibly us as practitioners to consider any differential
minimise the effects of ageing in the hands. diagnoses and exclude any other significant
Traditional dermal fillers only address pathology, which the patient’s concern
lines, wrinkles and folds, but Ellansé – a may be a presenting complaint for, such
collagen-stimulating injectable made from as multiple system atrophy, carpal tunnel
carboxymethyl cellulose (a gel carrier and syndrome, muscular atrophies or dystrophy,
short-term volumiser), and microspheres other motor nerve problems, inflammatory
of bio-stimulator polycaprolactone – works conditions, such as arthritis, collagen disorder;
beneath the surface of the skin to activate and fat strophic disorders. Though these
cellular regeneration and stimulate type I conditions are rare, and would have other
collagen production. Ellansé can be injected signs and symptoms, we should be aware of
into the sub-dermal tissues, down to them and be able to refer the patient back to
the periosteum. their GP for further assessment if necessary,
At my clinic Harley Street Skin, we have before treating them. As ever, a lot of clues
created a treatment using Ellansé called will be in the patient’s medical history, so it
the Harley Street Hand Lift. The treatment is important to take the time to establish a
involves up to 20 micro-injections into the comprehensive history from them.

After the Harley Street Hand Lift

aestheticmed.co.uk Aesthetic Medicine 79


INJECTABLE HAND LIFT

I initiate a conversation about the A numbing cream was applied to


ageing process and explain to the patient the backs of June’s hands and 15 to 20
what impact that has on their hands, and injections were administered which
what they can do to slow the process covered an area from just above her wrists
down, improve and preserve things for to the bottom of her fingers.
themselves. This serves to empower
the patient. With better knowledge and RESULTS
understanding, it engages them with the We saw instant results in June. Her hands
whole process of rejuvenation, and allows looked plumper, more rejuvenated and less
them to take personal responsibility for wrinkled and her veins were less noticeable.
part of the treatment and the outcomes. In following up after the treatment, we
We then discuss the options available, offered advice on how to maintain the
including doing nothing, explaining that results for longer. Washing our hands all
any action or treatment carries a risk and the time and the constant exposure to
outcomes cannot be guaranteed. It is oil-stripping soap and hot water, along
important to discuss not only the benefits with application of alcohol-based hand
but also the limitations of each of the sanitisers can make even the sturdiest
options, including the contraindications. of hands dry, red and irritated. June was
June, 58, presented with thin, veiny advised to watch her water temperature
and blotchy hands which looked much as hot water can strip the skin of its natural
older than her face. She hoped to not oils, leading to dry, chapped, and cracked
only improve them but to avoid the skin. I reminded her to opt for washing her
psychological discomfort when holding hands with soap wherever possible instead
hands with her younger boyfriend. She of using a hand-sanitiser gel as it is much
wanted to rejuvenate her hands as much as kinder to the skin and more effective at
possible to reverse the signs of ageing. After actually cleaning the hands, too.
the initial consultation and assessment, it A gentle, unscented soap with hydrating
was felt that June had been unhappy about ingredients like glycerine which pulls
her hands ageing since the menopause. moisture into the skin is best, as well as
This had affected her confidence; she ceramides, shea butter and coconut
would avoid showing her hands, especially oil. Soothing ingredients such as aloe
in pictures. Her sense of psychological vera, chamomile and green tea can also
discomfort was heightened when she met decrease any inflammation and irritation.
her younger partner, and this was her trigger June was also advised to always use a hand
to seeking help and advice. cream after washing as it will act as a barrier
and help seal in hydration. The skin can
TREATMENT PLAN absorb the most moisture during the first
Examination revealed loss of skin elasticity, few minutes after washing your hands. I told
with dyschromia due to photodamage her to choose a thick, creamy formula with
with early keratoses. There was loss ingredients like oatmeal (good for soothing
of subcutaneous fat, with increased itchy skin and eczema) emollients and
prominence of the appearance of the veins. hydrators. Again, these include glycerin,
There was no other significant medical or ceramides, vitamin E and shea butter or
psychiatric history, and there were no hyaluronic acid and help the skin barrier
other conditions that we would be retain its natural moisture. She can also
concerned about. use an intensive hand mask once a week to
We discussed the options along with their intensely hydrate the skin.
risks, limitations, and benefits, and decided
upon a comprehensive regenerative
approach treatment including skincare and
sun protection for the hands and Ellansé
injected sub-dermally to rejuvenate the
REFERENCES
1. Moers-Carpi M, Sherwood S., Polycaprolatcone
skin and sub-cutaneous fat layer. for the correction of nasolabial folds: 24 month,
Consideration of peels or IPL for prospective randomized, controlled clinical trial.
Dermatol Surg 2013;39:457-463
rejuvenation of photo-ageing was
considered for a later date if necessary.

80 Aesthetic Medicine July/August 2021


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