My Top Ten Menopausal Skin Hacks

Approaching menopause is a big deal for skin. Oestrogen is an essential

driver for a healthy skin barrier, regular collagen and hyaluronic acid production
and it balances the impact of our blemish-promoting hormones. So when levels
start to tank, we need to have a plan.

The average age of onset of menopause is 51 - but it makes sense to

implement a focused strategy ahead of this to mitigate the slow decline in
oestrogen levels we see in the perimenopausal phase.

The reason this is important is that the most rapid loss happens in the first 5
years - we lose as much as 30% collagen in that period. Thereafter we lose
around 2% per year. 

The message - early action is key!

Let’s break it down into simple categories:

Barrier protection for Menopausal Skin

1. Cleanse with care. Your skin will most definitely be drier. Therefore it’s vital if
we’re to build a great routine based around Active ingredients that work,
you’ll need to support your skin. Cleanser should not foam or be fragranced. I
cannot emphasise this enough. Don’t use anything rougher than fingertips.
And use tepid water, not hot. 


2. Strip out products that don’t serve you. This means dropping ‘freshening’
toners, physical exfoliants and fragranced facial mists and spritzes - all of
these potentially irritate and take up room in the tank, which would be better
filled with meaningful ingredients that actually deliver on efficacy. 


3. Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate. Dry skin is more prone to sensitization, so the

more robust you coax your barrier to be, the better. Seek out well-balanced
formulas that contain both occlusives - to lock water in; humectants - to
attract water in; and barrier repair ingredients- to fortify the strength of the
 skin’s ‘brick wall’ structure that is ultimately the key to our complexion
looking and performing beautifully.

Nutritional Support for Menopausal Skin

4. Eat for a healthy barrier. Skip fried and sugary foods that will damage your
collagen; instead, embrace a diet full of colour. And drink a normal amount of
water, no need to guzzle litres!!! Hydrated skin comes from how well your
skin’s outer layer holds onto water (which is determined by its structure). If
this is leaky, no amount of water we drink will improve skin hydration, as it
will just evaporate away.


My nutritional hit list for ultimate skin ageing is:

Carrots - Vitamin A
Tomato - Vitamin C, lycopene
Avocado + olive oil - Vitamin E
Watermelon - Lycopene
Apple - Antioxidants
Blueberries - Antioxidants
Yoghurt, fish, chicken - Protein 

5. Supplement wisely. I think vitamin D is best reliably taken in a supplement

format. I recommend at least 2000iu, so discuss this with your health
practitioner as some individuals will benefit from higher doses. I think its also
useful to take an omega 3 supplement, like Flaxseed oil and a mineral
supplement - I like Solgar Chelated Solamins. 


Active Skincare for Menopausal Skin

6. Use a retinoid. I have done a whole YouTube series on the marvels of

retinoids and I’d urge you to watch it if starting one for the first time. It's an
incredibly positive step for the long-term health and beauty of your skin and
should be done gently, as if commencing a new exercise regime. 


7. Tackle blemishes. (Again, use a retinoid!) The hormonal turbulence of

menopause can ironically not only throw up dry skin but it can also yield
unwelcome visitors on your chin. Breakouts are especially challenging if your
skin is dry as anti-blemish solutions are often even more irritating in this
context. Note that retinoids are first line prevention - but you should also
equip yourself with an anti-inflammatory ‘defuser’ for active blemishes. The
best ones are 2.5-5 % benzoyl peroxide and 1-2 % salicylic acid. Apply over
 moisturiser if you’re prone to dryness and keep localized to just the spot. 


8. Bolster your daily defences. So I consider using sunscreen an active step.

Why? Because by protecting your skin, you free up resources, allowing skin
to repair itself. Which is pretty amazing. This is best achieved - you know the
drill - by using a proper broad spectrum sunscreen in the correct amount (its
a standard dose, so no skimping!) and reapplying if you’re going to be
spending time outdoors. What’s the right one for you? The one you actually
like wearing. I like to partner daily sunscreen with an antioxidant cocktail of
vitamin B3 and vitamin C. Both are excellent support against the
environmental challenges of daily living. 

9. Tackle skin-tone. With an even skin tone, comes radiance. And when the
light is on, everything just looks better! No one cares about your pores when
skin is glowy and bright (it’s important to remember this when you’re peering
into your pores 3mm from the mirror with zero perspective!) Lots of things
help with this. I love azelaic acid and arbutin. And on prescription, 4%
hydroquinone is highly effective. The best ingredients invariably have
multiple benefits - hence I use azelaic acid in those prone to pigmentation
and redness.

10.Procedures are an option. As in all things procedural, the right route for you
is the right route for you. Some people draw the line at skincare. Others are
comfortable ‘as long as it’s natural’, so microneedling rocks their boat. The
key thing is to have a compassionate physician who sees your goals and
understands your appetite for such things to gently guide you along this
road. A lot of people worry that once they start they won’t be able to stop. I
hear this with nervous first timers a lot. There is no need to be afraid if you’re
in the right hands. So always know that a consultation is just that - allowing
you time to walk away, noodle on the info provided and reflect on where you
go next, if you go at all. 


In summary to structure a simple routine:

AM

Gentle Cleanser 
+
 Antioxidant/Pigmentation step OR Active Anti-inflammatory step 
+ 
Moisturiser 
 + 
SPF
 + 
Makeup

PM

Gentle Cleanser
+
(Buffer layer Moisturiser) 
+ 
 Retinoid 
+
Moisturiser 

Products I Recommend:
Gentle Cleansers:
Cerave Hydrating Cleanser
Dr Sam’s Flawless Cleanser
La Roche-Posay Toleriane Dermo-Cleanser

Antioxidant Serums:
Skinceuticals CE Ferulic 
Obagi Professional Vitamin C Serum 10-20%

Pigmentation Serums: (can be layered over Vitamin C in AM)

Paula's Choice Azelaic Acid Booster
Jan Marini Rosalieve - Azelaic Acid 
facetheory Porebright N10 Niacinamide and Azelaic Acid Serum

Anti-inflammatory products:
Medik8 Blemish SOS
Acnecide 5% Gel Benzoyl Peroxide

Moisturisers
Avène Skin Recovery Cream - Light or Riche
La Roche-Posay Toleriane Ultra
Cerave Moisturising Cream
Dr Sam’s Flawless Moisturiser
Obagi Hydrate

Sunscreens

Combination/Oily
La Roche Posay Shaka Fluide SPF50
Eucerin Sun Protection Sun Fluid Mattifying Face SPF50+
Heliocare Gel SPF 50
Jan Marini Physical Protectant SPF45
Neostrata Sheer Physical Protection SPF50
Heliocare Mineral Tolerance Fluide SPF 50

Normal/Dry
Dr Sam’s Flawless Daily Sunscreen
La Roche Posay Anthelios Comfort Cream SPF50

Retinoids

The Ordinary Advanced Retinoid 

Dr Sam’s Flawless Nightly Serum
Medik8 Crystal Retinal

Make-Up Brands I Rate

Foundation
EX1 Invisiwear
NARS Radiant Tinted Moisturiser 
NARS Sheer Glow Foundation
Armani Luminous Silk
Lancôme Teint Miracle
Surratt Dew Drop Foundation

Concealers
Vichy Dermablend
Lancôme Teint Idole Foundation Stick
NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer or Soft Matte Concealer

Blotting Papers
NYX
DHC
Muji
Remember - it’s never too late to start taking care of your
skin. 
Because good skin looks great on everyone (at every age)!