One Face,

BUT One Hundred

Products

THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO

STREAMLINING YOUR

E
C
N
SKINCARE ROUTINE

E
IC
S
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 PAGE 1 | ONE FACE, BUT ONE HUNDRED PRODUCTS

INTRODUCTION

LET'S CALL IT LIKE IT IS - SKINCARE CAN BE COMPLICATED AND OVERWHELMING.

WITH SO MANY PRODUCTS ON THE MARKET THAT YOU'RE TOLD YOU 'NEED' TO USE ON
A DAILY BASIS (BE IT FROM A FRIEND OVER A COFFEE, OR SOME CLEVERLY MARKETED
TELEVISION ADVERT), IT CAN BE A STRUGGLE TO DRAW THE LINE BETWEEN WHAT IS
ESSENTIAL FOR YOUR SKIN AND WHERE YOU CAN PUT A PRODUCT BACK ON THE SHELF.
EVEN MORE DIFFICULT IS TRYING TO DISCOVER WHICH (IF ANY) OF YOUR PRODUCTS
ARE WORKING TO TARGET YOUR SKIN TYPE AND TREAT YOUR SKIN CONCERNS.

I TRULY BELIEVE THAT IT DOESN'T HAVE TO BE LIKE THIS. SKINCARE SHOULD NOT
CAUSE YOU STRESS IN YOUR DAY.

MY PHILOSOPHY ON SKINCARE IS QUITE A SIMPLE ONE: BUILD A ROUTINE WITH

MINIMAL STEPS, THAT YOU KNOW YOU CAN COMMIT TO TWICE PER DAY AND CENTRE
IT AROUND SCIENTIFICALLY-PROVEN INGREDIENTS THAT HAVE BEEN SHOWN TO WORK.

I COME TO YOU, NOT AS A SKINCARE PROFESSIONAL, A DERMATOLOGIST OR AN

ESTHETICIAN, BUT AS A FELLOW CONSUMER AND 'SKINTHUSIAST', WHO WISHES TO
SHARE CONCEPTS TO HELP YOU ON YOUR WAY TO ACHIEVING A STREAMLINED,
EFFECTIVE SKINCARE ROUTINE, WITHOUT THE GIMMICKS.

IF, LIKE ME, YOU'VE STARED AT YOUR SKINCARE STASH IN A STATE OF DISBELIEF AT
JUST HOW MUCH PRODUCT YOU'VE PURCHASED AND ACCUMULATED IN AN ENDLESS
ATTEMPT TO FIND THE BEST SKIN OF YOUR LIFE, BUT DEEP DOWN YOU'RE
SHAMEFULLY REMINDING YOURSELF 'I'VE GOT ONE FACE, BUT ONE HUNDRED PRODUCTS',
THEN THIS GUIDE TO STREAMLINING YOUR SKINCARE ROUTINE IS JUST FOR YOU.

-JAY

@SKINCAREANDSCIENCE
SKINCAREANDSCIENCE@GMAIL.COM

@SKINCAREANDSCIENCE
PAGE 2 | ONE FACE, BUT ONE HUNDRED PRODUCTS

BUILDING A
GREAT SKINCARE
ROUTINE
My philosophy on building a great skincare
routine is quite a simple one: choose products
with ingredients that can target your skin type
and treat your skin concerns, whilst keeping
steps to as few as possible, to minimise the risk
of irritation (and also to better help identify which
products are/aren't working for your skin).

An example of how I build a routine is as follows:

DAY
CLEANSE - (water-based cleanser)
TREAT - (to treat skin concerns)
HYDRATE - (to target skin type)
PROTECT - (SPF30+, aim for SPF50)

NIGHT
CLEANSE - (oil cleanser & water-based cleanser)
TREAT - (to treat skin concerns)
HYDRATE - (to target skin type)

As a general rule of thumb, I tend to save on my

'bookend' products (cleanser and moisturiser) and
spend more on a well-formulated treatment or
cosmetically elegant sunscreen; the products that
can make the biggest difference to my routine.

In this guide, I will be exploring each of the

individual steps in more detail and making
recommendations for types of product that could
be effectively used at each stage, with an aim to
streamling your skincare routine.

@SKINCAREANDSCIENCE
 PAGE 3 | ONE FACE, BUT ONE HUNDRED PRODUCTS

1. CLEANSE
DAY "TAKING
Although brands may tell you otherwise, I believe
that cleansing your skin in the morning is totally
optional. Some 'skinthusiasts' (myself included) see
CARE OF
great benefits for long-term skin health and
regulation when deciding against twice per day
YOUR SKIN
cleansing. Unless you've had a very sweaty night's
sleep, or you simply prefer to cleanse in the AM, a
IS MORE
gentle water-rinse is generally more than
sufficient for most skin types.
IMPORTANT
In the case that you do decide to cleanse in the
THAN
morning, a lightweight, non-stripping cleanser
should be your go-to. For normal-oily skin types,
COVERING
this would be a gel cleanser (free of SLS) or for
drier skins, a cleansing cream/milk. Morning is not
IT UP"
the time for cleansing oils and balms, as the aim
is to simply refresh the skin, not remove make-up
or SPF.

If you prefer to exfoliate in the morning, a well-

formulated exfoliating cleanser could be just the
thing to start your day, 2-3 times per week. No,
I'm not referring to St. Ives walnut scrub, or any
other potentially micro-damaging face scrubs.
This would be the time to reach for an AHA or
BHA-containing cleanser.

AHA's (such as Lactic and Glycolic Acid) are great

for exfoliating the surface of the skin for a
healthy glow, while BHA's (Salicylic Acid) are
better suited for diving pore-deep, clearing out
excess sebum and tackling blemishes. I like to use
my acid cleanser as a mask and leave it on my
skin while brushing my teeth or showering, before
rinsing off. I notice most difference when used in
this way, rather than being applied and instantly
washed off. Acids need time to work.

@SKINCAREANDSCIENCE
 PAGE 4 | ONE FACE, BUT ONE HUNDRED PRODUCTS

NIGHT
Presuming that you've worn SPF, make-up, or both during the day, an evening skincare
routine should begin with an oil-based cleanser, like a  cleansing oil/balm to break down
the often water-resistant nature of these long lasting products. Alternatively, if oily
textures aren't your thing, a dense cleansing cream/milk can be used instead. Following
a good massage of your first cleanser of choice, a little water can be added to emulsify
the cleanser (transforming it from an oil/balm into a milk) to help it be easier to remove.

From here, the cleanser can be rinsed off the skin, removed with a warm face cloth, or, if
double cleansing is your thing, followed up with application of a second cleanser directly
on top, before rinsing and removing both cleansers together, as one. Your second
cleanser should ideally be that which you used as part of your morning routine; a water-
based cleanser that is designed purely to cleanse the skin, itself, not remove make-up
and SPF. If you've got only one cleanser in your stash, simply use it twice.

CLEANSER
RECOMMENDATIONS

GEL - CERAVE HYDRATING CLEANSER,

SIMPLE REFRESHING GEL WASH,
BIODERMA SENSIBIO FOAMING GEL
EXFOLIATING - SKINCEUTICALS
GLYCOLIC RENEWAL CLEANSER GEL
(AHA), CERAVE SA SMOOTHING
CLEANSER (BHA), MEDIK8 SURFACE
RADIANCE CLEANSE (AHA & BHA)
CREAM/MILK - BEAUTY PIE JEJU
CLEANSING MILK, SIMPLY PURE
CONDITIONING CLEANSER, GARNIER
ALOE REFRESHING CLEANSING MILK
OIL/BALM -THE BODY SHOP CAMOMILE
CLEANSING BUTTER, ALGENIST GENIUS
MELTING CLEANSER, EMMA HARDIE
MORINGA CLEANSING BALM

@SKINCAREANDSCIENCE
 PAGE 5 | ONE FACE, BUT ONE HUNDRED PRODUCTS

"AGING IS A FACT OF LIFE.

LOOKING YOUR AGE ISN'T"
2. TREAT
VITAMIN C

Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that has been

proven to improve the signs of skin aging and is
able to prevent free radical damage in the skin
caused by pollution and UV exposure from the
sun (in combination with SPF).

Vitamin C, in its purest form (L-Ascorbic Acid),

has the most research behind it and is the most
effective form of the ingredient, being shown to
deliver significant results in concentrations of
10-20%. Here's where things start to get not so
pretty: not only is L-AA capable of giving your
hands and nails a very unsightly orange-y stain
with regular use, but it's also extremely unstable
and degrades in the presence of light and air.
Due to this, the shelf-life of a water-based L-AA
serum is around 3 months and even less in a hot
climate. For this reason, brands will advise
storing Vitamin C in the fridge, but let's be
VITAMIN C
honest - who has the time? In my world, fridges RECOMMENDATIONS
are for food, not skincare.
10% L-AA - LA ROCHE POSAY VITAMIN
If, like me, you don't want to be concerned about C10, SKINCEUTICALS PHLORETIN CF,
products going off, staining your skin, or needing SKIN DOCTORS POTENT VIT. C
to be stored in the fridge, then look for a
15% L-AA - GEEK & GORGEOUS C-GLOW,
Vitamin C derivative instead. Although not as
SKINCEUTICALS CE FERULIC
effective, they have greater stability, a longer
20% L-AA - TIMELESS 20% VITAMIN
shelf-life and are usually less irritating to the
C+E+FERULIC ACID
skin. Derivatives to look for are Sodium Ascorbyl
ALGENIST GENIUS VITAMIN C+ SERUM
Phosphate, Ascorbyl Glucoside, or new kid on the
SVR AMOUPLE C ANTI-OX
block, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate.

@SKINCAREANDSCIENCE
 PAGE 6 | ONE FACE, BUT ONE HUNDRED PRODUCTS

NIACINAMIDE (VITAMIN B3) NIACINAMIDE

Niacinamide is one of my favourite multi- RECOMMENDATIONS
tasking ingredients that I've discovered in
recent years. It's very rare for a treatment
SKINCEUTICALS DISCOLORATION
product to catch my eye (or remain in regular
DEFENSE
rotation in my stash) if it doesn't contain this
MEDIK8 BLEMISH + AGE-REPAIR
powerhouse ingredient, because it simply does
SERUM
it all. Concerned about the appearance of
pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines/wrinkles or SVR AMPOULE B3 HYDRA
a combination of all of these? Niacinamide has THE INKEY LIST NIACINAMIDE
you covered. GEEK & GORGEOUS B-BOMB
PAULA'S CHOICE 10% NIACINAMIDE
Studies have shown Niacinamide to be highly
effective at working on these common skin
concerns at a concentration of as little as 5%.
It's quite common to see a formulation offered
at a 10% strength nowadays (off the back of The
Ordinary's success, even though their formulation
is rubbish, in my opinion), but it's not always
necessary to reach for these heights. Stronger
does not always translate into better results.

A true crowd pleaser, Niacinamide can easily

slot into your existing routine, as it plays well
with other ingredients that you may be already
using. It's known to help soften the blow of
common side-effects and irritation that can
come from use of strong active ingredients,
such as Retinoids and Acids.
HYALURONIC ACID
RECOMMENDATIONS
HADA LABO PREMIUM LOTION
THE INKEY LIST HYALURONIC ACID
SKINCEUTICALS H.A INTENSIFIER
FIRST AID BEAUTY ULTRA REPAIR
HYDRATING SERUM
MEDIK8 HYDR8 B5
SVR AMPOULE B3 HYDRA
HYALURONIC ACID
We've all heard of it. We've all used it.
Hylauronic Acid is everywhere, and for good
reason - this superstar ingredient can attract
and retain over 1000x its weight in moisture,
meaning that it's a go-to for most skin
concerns, especially dehydration. I'm not a
die hard fan of a separate H.A. product, as
it's usually already included in just about
everything, from your cleanser, to your
moisturiser. Look for a formula containing
different molecular weights of H.A. and
Sodium Hyaluronate (a salt of H.A), as they
penetrate deeper into the skin.

@SKINCAREANDSCIENCE
 PAGE 7 | ONE FACE, BUT ONE HUNDRED PRODUCTS
ACID RECOMMENDATIONS
THE ORDINARY GLYCOLIC ACID 7% (AHA)
THE ORDINARY LACTIC ACID 5/10% (AHA)
NIP + FAB GLYCOLIC FIX EXTREME NIGHT
PADS (AHA+BHA)
GEEK & GORGEOUS CHEER UP (AHA+BHA)
PAULA'S CHOICE 2% BHA LIQUID (BHA)
GEEK & GORGEOUS CALM DOWN (PHA+BHA)
"A WELL
MAINTAINED
SKINCARE
ROUTINE IS
ONE OF
LIFE'S GREAT
SUCCESSES"
OTHER GREAT INGREDIENTS
PEPTIDES - Building blocks for proteins
in the skin that work on loss of firmness
and the appearance of wrinkles.
ANTIOXIDANTS - Combat the physical
signs of aging and free radical damage.
CERAMIDES - Lipids that reinforce the
skin's natural moisture barrier, helping it
stay hydrated and retain moisture.
AZELAIC ACID - Reduces the appearance
of blemishes, helps even discolouration
and refines skin's texture.
@SKINCAREANDSCIENCE
ACIDS
Using an exfoliating acid in moderation (2-3
times per week) should be the primary method
of exfoliating the skin - never using a harsh,
abrasive scrub. If you're using other strong
actives, like Retinoids, let your acids take a
step back and use them only as needed. The
type of acid that you use will depend on what
you want it to achieve for your skin.
AHA's exfoliate the surface/upper layers of
the skin and are great for treating
pigmentation and uneven skin tone. Glycolic
Acid is generally the strongest AHA, followed
closely by Lactic Acid and then Mandelic Acid.
Each has an increasing molecular size, making
them less harsh and gradually, more suitable
for even the most sensitive of skins.
BHA (known as  Salicylic Acid) is an oil-soluble
molecule, which makes it a great option for
oily/blemish-prone skin to deeply cleanse the
pore and dissolve built up sebum.
PHA's (like  Gluconolactone and Lactobionic
Acid) have the largest molecular size and
penetrate the skin the slowest, making them
best for sensitive skins or for when your skin
is in need of some gentler TLC.
OTHER RECOMMENDATIONS
TIMELESS COENZYME Q10 SERUM
THE ORDINARY 'BUFFET'
MEDIK8 BLEMISH + AGE-REPAIR SERUM
PAULA'S CHOICE ANTIOXIDANT PORE
PURIFIER
SIMPLY PURE HYDRATING SERUM
GEEK & GORGEOUS A-PAD
THE ORDINARY AZELAIC ACID 10%
 PAGE 8 | ONE FACE, BUT ONE HUNDRED PRODUCTS

RETINOL/RETINOIDS (VITAMIN A)

Since discovering Retinoids 6-7 years ago, I've used them

religiously in my evening skincare routine every couple of
nights. Vitamin A has extensive research behind it and it is
widely considered to be the 'gold standard' in correcting the
signs of aging and contributing to overall skin health.

'Retinoids' are a group of ingredients that are converted

(often several times) by the skin, before becoming pure
Retinoid Acid; the ingredient that the skin recognises and is
receptive to. With any Retinoid, slow and steady wins the
race. Begin with using it 2-3 nights per week and increase
use gradually, as your skin begins to tolerate it better.

Although Retinyl Palmitate is the mildest Retinoid, it needs

to be converted several times before the skin can receive it.
Instead, I would start out with a low-strength Retinol at
0.3% (or lower), gradually working up in strength to 0.5%
and eventually 1%, as tolerated. Retinaldehyde is the next
step up; start the process over again, using a low 0.025%
strength and work towards using 0.1%. Pure Retinoic Acid
(known as Tretinoin) is the strongest option available and
should only be considered by experienced Vitamin A users.

RETINOL/RETINOID
RECOMMENDATIONS

0.3% RETINOL - INDEED LAB RETINOL REFACE,

LA ROCHE POSAY RETINOL B3, NO7 RETINOL
0.5% RETINOL - THE ORDINARY RETINOL 0.5%,
SKINCEUTICALS RETINOL 0.5
1% RETINOL - PAULA'S CHOICE CLINICAL 1%
RETINOL, SKINCEUTICALS RETINOL 1.0
RETINALDEHYDE - MEDIK8 CRYSTAL RETINAL,
GEEK & GORGEOUS A-GAME
RETINOIC ACID - TRETINOIN

@SKINCAREANDSCIENCE
 PAGE 9 | ONE FACE, BUT ONE HUNDRED PRODUCTS

3. HYDRATE
MOISTURISER "BE GOOD
Moisturiser is the bread of the sandwich, while the
TO YOUR
serum/treatment is the filling. Don't rely on your
moisturiser to do the heavy lifting in treating your skin
SKIN.
concerns, as it normally doesn't contain high enough levels
of suitable active ingredients to do so. Leave this task to
YOU'LL
your serum and invest the majority of your skincare budget
there. A moisturiser should target your skin type and the
WEAR IT
texture and formulation should be selected accordingly.
EVERY
Oily skin types will benefit from Gel and Gel-Cream
formulations, while Combinations skins may prefer Lotion DAY FOR
textures. Drier skin types will see and feel most impact
from use of Creams or Oils. THE REST
A well-formulated moisturiser should contain a mixture of OF YOUR
the following components:
EMOLLIENTS - soften and condition the skin (like Shea LIFE"
Butter and Aloe Vera)
HUMECTANTS - draw moisture to the skin (such
as Glycerin and Hyaluronic Acid)
OCCLUSIVES - prevent moisture loss from the skin
(includes Dimethicone and Petrolatum)

MOISTURISER RECOMMENDATIONS

LOTION - CERAVE MOISTURISING LOTION,

SIMPLY PURE HYDRATING SERUM,
SKINCEUTICALS METACELL RENEWAL B3
CREAM - CERAVE MOISTURISING CREAM,
ALGENIST GENIUS CREAM, THE INKEY LIST
PEPTIDE MOISTURISER, THE ORDINARY NMF
GEL-CREAM - CERAVE FACIAL MOISTURISING
LOTION PM, SIMPLE WATER BOOST GEL-CREAM,
NEUTROGENA HYDRO BOOST GEL-CREAM
GEL - CLINIQUE DRAMATICALLY DIFFERENT
MOISTURISING GEL/JELLY

@SKINCAREANDSCIENCE
PAGE 10 | ONE FACE, BUT ONE HUNDRED PRODUCTS

4. PROTECT
SUNSCREEN

The best sunscreen you can use on your skin is one

that you will reach for every single day, rain or shine,
without hating it. If your sunscreen makes your skin
excessively oily or gives you a ghostly looking white-
cast, you're simply not going to want to use it. A
cosmetically elegant formulation is key when it comes
to this stage of your skincare routine. It may take you
several attempts to find your SPF soulmate, but just
like dating, keep trying them out and tossing them to
the side if they don't work out, until you find 'the one'.

While choosing a physical or chemical SPF is down to

personal preference, the bottom line remains the same:
choose one that is broad-spectrum. This will offer
protection against both UVA (that cause skin aging) and
UVB rays (that cause the skin to burn).

For the level of protection that you choose, most

professionals generally recommend at least an SPF30.
Personally, I choose to use an SPF50 everyday, as they
feel the exact same on the skin once applied. Although
they only offer a difference of 1% in how much UVB
rays they allow onto the skin, this represents a
difference of 50% in UV radiation quantities, according
to the Skin Cancer Foundation.

SUNSCREEN RECOMMENDATIONS

LA ROCHE-POSAY ANTHELIOS SHAKA FLUID SPF50

LA ROCHE-POSAY ANTHELIOS XL GEL-CREAM SPF50
GARNIER AMBRE SOLAIRE SENSITIVE FLUID SPF50
PAULA'S CHOICE RESIST ULTRA LIGHT SPF50
HELIOCARE 360 OIL-FREE GEL SPF50
SKINCEUTICALS ULTRA FACIAL DEFENSE SPF50
BIODERMA PHOTODERM MAX AQUAFLUID SPF50
LIFE JACKET SKIN PROTECTION SUN GEL SPF50

@SKINCAREANDSCIENCE
 PAGE 11 | ONE FACE, BUT ONE HUNDRED PRODUCTS
PRODUCTS
YOUR SKIN
DOES NOT NEED
The skincare industry is saturated with
competition. I've often heard that although
brands may deem a product unnecessary in
their line, they still need to produce it due to
demand and to maintain market share over
competitors. However, that doesn't mean that
it's necessary for you to buy it. These are my
recommendations for where you can save your
hard-earned cash and streamline your stash.
EYE CREAM
Eye cream is simply a more expensive
moisturiser in smaller packaging. Unless it
has something in it that your moisturiser
doesn't, put it back on the shelf. Even then,
I'd still try to find a moisturiser containing
the ingredient(s) of interest and use it around
the eyes instead, for better value.
TONERS/MISTS
Toners and Mists are usually mostly water and
more often that not, come loaded with skin
irritating ingredients just to make them even
less useful. If it isn't loaded with Glycerin and
Hyaluronic Acid, it can actually dehydrate the
skin, rather than hydrate it. Unless it's going
to exfoliate your skin, skip it. Invest in a good
serum instead.
WIPES
If you enjoy smearing your own sweat, make-
up and SPF around your face, be my guest. If
you don't, just use a cleanser. It's much better
for your skin (and the environment).
@SKINCAREANDSCIENCE
"YOUR
SKINCARE
JOURNEY
IS A
MARATHON,
NOT A
RACE"
FACE MASKS
Face masks are often fun to use and a
feel good moment, I get it. However, if
your skincare routine is targeting your
skin type and treating your skin concerns
sufficiently, you should not require any
added extras to 'fix' an issue. Any effect a
mask will give will be totally temporary
and not a replacement for continued use
of great treatment products.
'NATURAL, TOXIC-FREE'
Scare-mongering skincare from 'Green'
brands should be classified as illegal
marketing, in my opinion, as their claims
often aren't backed up with scientific
evidence. 'Natural' is not better. 'Toxic' is
not a regulated term and means nothing.
'Chemicals' are all around us (water is a
chemical). 'Paraben-free' does not mean
safe, unless you like your products
mouldy (I certainly don't). Just cut the crap
already. The world's a scary enough place
without being afraid of your moisturiser.
 PAGE 12 | ONE FACE, BUT ONE HUNDRED PRODUCTS

DRY SKIN COMBINATION SKIN OILY SKIN

OIL & CREAM / MILK CLEANSER OIL & GEL CLEANSER OIL & GEL CLEANSER
AHA'S AHA'S / BHA'S BHA'S
HYALURONIC ACID / CERAMIDES VITAMIN C / NIACINAMIDE NIACINAMIDE
RETINOIDS RETINOIDS RETINOIDS
CREAM MOISTURISER / OIL LOTION MOISTURISER GEL / GEL-CREAM MOISTURISER
RICH, COMFORTING SPF MATTE, DRY-TOUCH SPF MATTE, DRY-TOUCH SPF

SKIN

CONCERN
WHICH
PRODUCTS
TO USE SKIN

TYPE

SKIN BARRIER FINE LINES / WRINKLES DEHYDRATION

HYALURONIC ACID HYALURONIC ACID HYALURONIC ACID

CERAMIDES PEPTIDES CERAMIDES
NIACINAMIDE RETINOIDS NIACINAMIDE

BLEMISHES PIGMENTATION

BHA's AHA'S
NIACINAMIDE VITAMIN C
AZELAIC ACID NIACINAMIDE
RETINOIDS AZELAIC ACID

@SKINCAREANDSCIENCE
SKIN.VEST.MENT
noun.
the action or
process of investing
time and money
with the
expectation of
healthy, glowing
and supple skin in
the future.