SKIN CARE LESSONS

1) PRODUCTS:

A) Good Products:

- Salicylic acid:
What is Salicylic Acid?

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid, or BHA, which is a desmolytic ingredient. That means it
targets certain protein bonds in skin, known as desmosomes, that keep dead cells clinging to
skin instead of sloughing off. Skin’s natural shedding process can become faulty due to age,
sun damage, and problems like acne and excess oil. Exfoliating helps restore this natural
ability.

Salicylic acid is unique because it not only loosens the bonds between dead skin on the surface
but also deep in the pore lining, where spent cells mix with oil and debris, becoming trapped
below the surface. Left unchecked, all this buildup leads to dull, rough skin and clogged pores,
setting the stage for blackheads and bumps.

Compared to water-soluble alpha hydroxy acids, this type of acid is oil soluble, so it’s able to
get through the oil, thinning it so it can flow freely to skin’s surface where your cleanser
washes it away. Its oil-soluble nature makes it preferred for oily, breakout-prone skin, and it’s
why medicated salicylic acid products for acne work so well; however, all skin types can
benefit from this ingredient.
Salicylic Acid Benefts

Before we list the benefits of using this ingredient, there’s a formula requirement you need to
know: In order to exfoliate, it must be within the pH range research has shown is most
effective. The best leave-on products have a pH between 3 and 4, ideal for effectiveness but
also gentle on skin, whose pH is naturally acidic. Rinse-off products tend to have a higher pH,
so you won’t get much of an exfoliation benefit, but your skin will reap soothing and calming
benefits.
Along with the pH, concentration matters, too! For exfoliating and dealing with clogged pores
and rough texture, use a leave-on exfoliant that contains a 1-2% concentration. If you have
more stubborn or advanced concerns around pores and signs of aging, concentrations
between 4-9% can make a beautiful difference.
What about products with 0.5% salicylic acid? This amount can provide slight exfoliation if the
pH range is right and it’s left on skin for a while, but whether rinse-off or leave-on, you can
primarily count on this amount for skin-soothing.
Along with being an effective exfoliant, salicylic acid is proven to:

- Minimize enlarged pores

- Diminish the look of fine lines and wrinkles
- Visibly reduce redness and calm stressed skin
- Reduce excess oil in the pore
- Lessen factors in skin that trigger acne

Using Salicylic Acid for Blackheads

If you have blackheads, using a well-formulated, leave-on salicylic acid exfoliant not only helps
dissolve existing blackheads, ongoing use helps keep new ones from forming in the pores. For
best results, apply the exfoliant to cleansed skin once or twice daily.

Salicylic Acid Products

Paula’s Choice offers several salicylic acid products (also known as BHA) formulated using the
ideal concentration and pH range for impressive results. All skin types will benefit from using a
lightweight salicylic acid liquid exfoliant because of the refined, healthy glow it creates. If you
have concerns about large pores and more advanced signs of aging, consider using a higher
strength serum with salicylic acid. Smaller areas of extra-stubborn concerns such as persistent
bumps and clogs will find relief with a very high strength 9% salicylic acid serum, which can be
used as needed and is even suitable for skin prone to milia.
Apply a leave-on product to cleansed skin once or twice daily (experiment to see which
frequency of application works best for you). Follow with the rest of your skin care routine and
you’ll see improvements as soon as overnight!

What About a Facial Cleanser with Salicylic Acid?

Many brands sell facial cleansers with this ingredient, often mixed with harsh scrub particles.
The fact is blackheads can’t be scrubbed away (their “root” is further in the pore, where scrubs
can’t reach) plus this type of cleanser’s contact with skin is too brief for the acid to penetrate
pores to break up the clog.

A gentle, water-soluble cleanser medicated with this acid can provide some soothing benefits
but won’t reduce existing blackheads or stop new ones from forming.

Salicylic Acid Side Effects?

Salicylic acid is considered safe to use in the amounts commonly found in skin care products;
however, it’s not recommended if you’re allergic to aspirin. This is because of the similarities
between it and aspirin, which is chemically known as acetylsalicylic acid.

The other precaution--which applies to all leave-on exfoliants--is to protect your fresh, bump-
free skin with a broad-spectrum sunscreen every day.

(Source: Paula’s Choice)

- Alpha Hydroxy Acids:

AHA stands for alpha hydroxy acid— but don’t let the word “acid” scare you: AHA ingredients
are more gentle on your skin than most scrubs or cleansing brushes could ever be.

There are several skin-exfoliating AHAs, but the two most effective, common, and well-
researched are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Other AHAs— malic acid, citric acid, and tartaric
acid— also have benefits, but research on them is limited in comparison.

How AHA Exfoliants Work on Skin

When we’re young, our skin naturally sheds built-up layers of dead cells at a rapid rate. But, as
the years pass, several factors slow this process, bringing it almost to a halt. Culprits like
unprotected sun exposure, dry skin, oily skin, and other skin problems can make skin dull,
dehydrated, and older-looking. The glow goes, and dullness grows.

A leave-on AHA exfoliant works on the uppermost layers of skin’s surface, loosening the
bonds between dead surface layers and the radiant skin beneath. And, while AHAs have
benefits for all skin types—diminishing the look of lines and wrinkles, improving skin’s
firmness, texture, and tone—their standout hydrating properties and ability to improve visible
signs of sun damage make them ideal for normal to dry skin with advanced signs of aging.
It’s important to note that formulary concerns are crucial for a product to be both gentle and
effective. Research has shown that AHA exfoliants containing glycolic acid or lactic acid in
concentrations between 5% and 10% and with a pH between 3 and 4 are ideal for optimal,
youth-reviving, non-irritating exfoliation.

How to Use an AHA Exfoliant

It often takes some experimenting to see which AHA works best for your skin. Some people
can use higher concentrations (such as 10%) without a problem, while others find that lower
concentrations (such as 5%)—or alternating the use of higher and lower strengths—is the ideal
solution.

But whichever exfoliant you choose, it should be applied after cleansing and toning. The other
products in your routine, like serums, boosters, and moisturizers, go on after your exfoliant in
order from thinnest to thickest texture. (Don’t forget to finish with sunscreen during the day.)

AHA Exfoliant Tips for Best Results

  You don’t need to wait between steps for each product to absorb. The AHA will work
even if you apply another product immediately before or after.
 It’s fine to apply an exfoliant to your undereye area, up to the edge of the orbital bone.
 Although daily exfoliation is optimal for many people, you might find that exfoliating
every other day works best for you. Again, it takes some experimentation.
 Don’t apply an AHA body lotion to freshly shaved legs. Shaving is a form of exfoliation,
so no need to double up on those days.
(Source: Paula’s Choice)

- Honey: is a great humectant that keeps moisture drawn into the skin and it does have
anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory properties. However, when you wash it of you do
need top ut something else on, so it’s not a once step process. Honey is a fun mask,
but it’s definetely not a moisturizer.
(Source: Kenna Whitnell)

- Niacinamide:

What is Niacinamide?
Also known as vitamin B3 and nicotinamide, niacinamide is a water-soluble vitamin
that works with the natural substances in your skin to help visibly minimize enlarged
pores, tighten lax pores, improve uneven skin tone, soften fine lines and wrinkles,
diminish dullness, and strengthen a weakened surface.

Niacinamide also reduces the impact of environmental damage because of its ability to
improve skin’s barrier (its first line of defense), plus it also plays a role in helping skin
to repair signs of past damage. Left unchecked, this type of daily assault makes skin
appear older, dull, and less radiant.

How to Use Niacinamide

For best results, use leave-on niacinamide products and apply them to cleansed skin
twice daily. That might mean you apply a toner with niacinamide immediately after
cleansing to rehydrate and replenish skin. A 10% Niacinamide Booster can be used on
its own (much like a serum) or mixed into your favorite moisturizer, based on personal
preference. Those with stubborn concerns around advanced signs of sun damage,
orange peel texture, lax pores, and oil-related bumps should consider trying an
advanced strength 20% niacinamide serum for use once or twice daily. Experiment to
see what works best for your skin!
You can use niacinamide-containing products around your eyes, too. Some might find
applying a moisturizer or eye cream with niacinamide helps improve the look of under
eye circles, helps soften the appearance of crow’s feet, not to mention enables this
delicate area to retain skin-smoothing moisture and resist loss of firmness.
(Source: Paula’s Choice)

- Peptides:

Peptides can be a great addition to your skin care routine because they can address so
many skin concerns. But as with all anti-aging ingredients, the best approach is to use
products such as moisturizers and serums that use a cocktail of great ingredients,
including antioxidants and skin-restoring substances (plus daily broad-spectrum
sunscreen) to visibly improve the health and appearance of your skin!

(Source: Paula’s Choice)

B) Products to avoid:
- Coconut oil: Could be very moisturizing to the skin. For people with sensible skin,
cocunut oil breaks you out and it’s quite a heavy vegetable oil. Clogs the pores. It’s
very good as hair masks.
(Source: Kenna Whitnell)

2) BEAUTY TIPS:

A) Exfoliation:
A.1) Physical Exfoliant: Never use it on the face. The skin in the face is very thin, fragile
and prone to micro tears and micro rips, and that opens up the opportunity for
bactéria and microbes to get into the skin and cause issues, like acne, abrasions,
trouble healing, etc. Particles like sugar, coffe, salt are all too strong for the face. It’s
not going to have a true exfoliating fator; its not getting into the pores, and actually
removing dirt, oil and make-up and cellular buildup. Should be left for the body.
(Source: Kenna Whitnell)
A.2) Chemical Exfoliant: The best way to exfoliate is using a chemical exfoliant as a
BETA HIDROXI ACID such as SALICYLIC ACID or ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS such as
GLYCOLIC or LACTIC ACID (use as directed on the product; generally 1-3x/week is ok).
(Source: Kenna Whitnell)

B) Micro needling/ micro derma rolling:

Micro incisions in the skin, in a controlled manner, uniformally. It’s a great way to get
rido f scarring; helps with repairing collagen and elastin in the skin and rebuilding those
cellular components.

(Source: Kenna Whitnell)

C) Moisturizing:
Protects cells from water loss and evaporation throughout the day. Generally, our skin
becomes very oily when it’s dehydrated because our skin is trying to overcompensate
and replenish those natural moisturizing factors by producing a lot of oils on the skin.

(Source: Kenna Whitnell)