SHAMPOO

WHAT IS SHAMPOO?
This is a hair care product that is designed to clean the hair and scalp. It is
specially formulated to remove excess natural oils, dust and dirt buildup in the
hair. Shampoos come in many different ingredients to suit different hair
texture or take care of a particular issue such as smoothing frizzy hair, adding
volume to thin hair or taking care of dandruff. Therefore, when buying
shampoo, it is crucial that you check and understand the ingredients used to
choose the best one for your hair type or a particular issue that you want to
take care of. Also, it is important to know that the ingredients are usually listed
are arranged in order of their concentration.

COMPOSITION OF SHAMPOO
WATER OR AQUA:

 This is usually the first ingredient listed on a shampoo bottle. This is

because it has the highest content of all ingredients. It makes up about
70 to 80% of the formula.
 The primary use of water is to blend together the ingredients used in a
shampoo. That said, the manufacturer should ensure they balance the
water to the ingredients well to achieve good shampoo consistency as well
as help it spread well through your hair.
  Deionized water is highly recommended for shampoos as it is specially
treated to get rid of various ions and particles used in shampoos.

SURFACTANTS
These are the second most abundant ingredients in shampoo formulas.
Surfactants are chemical detergents whose main goal is to remove excess oil
and dirt from your hair. Although not a bad thing, they can be a little too
practical meaning; they can strip your hair of its natural shine and texture or
irritate your hair and scalp.

Some of the most common surfactants used in shampoos include;

• Sodium Lauryl Sulfate: Popularly known as SLS, this molecule is a sulfate-
based cleansing agent. SLS is mainly used to cleanse your hair and scalp and also
produces a foamy lather which makes the whole process seem so luxurious.
While sulfate-based shampoos effectively clean the hair, they can strip your
hair of its essential oils, leaving it dry and discolored. If possible, go for a
sulfate free shampoo to keep your hair color looking fresh and luscious

• Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES): Although this element is a sulfate, it is not

the same as SLS. SLES’s molecular attachment is way bigger than SLS, which
enable it to cause less scalp irritation.
Sulfates, according to the Natural Society, have been found to contain dioxane,
which is known to disrupt kidney function.
• Cocamidopropyl: Derived from coconut oil, Cocamidopropyl is a milder version
of SLES and SLS. It is a gentle cleansing agent that contains conditioning
properties. It helps to cleanse and soften the hair, but might also cause some
irritation.

• Propylene Glycol: This is another commonly used ingredient in shampoos. It is

loved for its ability to penetrate the hair for a thorough cleanse.
Unfortunately, this ingredient also breaks down healthy hair proteins which
work as a building block for your hair and keeps it looking fabulous.

FOAM BOOSTERS
Other than the cleansing surfactants, shampoos also contain a different type
of surfactants whose main function is to improve foaming of the formulation.
Common foam boosters include;

• Cocamidopropyl-betaine: Derived from coconut oil, this ingredient’s primary

purpose is to boost foam formation. It also acts as an emulsifier, to help two
products that do not mix to blend well such as water and oil.

• Cocamide DEA

• Lauramide DEO
TEXTURE AND CONSISTENCY INGREDIENTS
There are also ingredients that are used to increase or decrease the shampoo
viscosity. These ingredients help to regulate the end product’s consistency to
ensure it has the right texture. The most common thickeners include;

• Sodium chloride (table salt): Sodium chloride is mainly used when the
shampoo is too thin to help thicken it. It also helps to rough up the hair cuticle
so that it makes fine hair look fuller. Therefore, if you have coarse hair, you
may not want to use shampoos with this ingredient.

• Sodium cylenesulfonate: Just like sodium chloride, this ingredient helps to

adjust shampoo thickness. It is mainly used to dilute a shampoo solution that is
too thick to the right texture.

MOISTURIZING AND HAIR CONDITIONING AGENTS

Other ingredients are used to mitigate the harsh effects of surfactants, such
as excessive drying on the hair. They, in turn, help to improve the hair’s feel,
softness, and tangling while also reducing static charge. Some common
moisturizing and conditioning ingredients in shampoo include:

• Dimethicone: Dimethicone is a silicone-based Polymer found in most shampoos.

This ingredient conditions the hair, making it feel silky smooth before you even
add conditioner.

• Glycerin: Glycerin is another popular ingredient in hair care products. It works

as a protective barrier by sealing in moisture after conditioning your hair to
prevent your hair from becoming too dry and frizzy.

• Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride: This ingredient helps to cushion your

hair fibers, especially on wet hair. As a result, it helps prevent your hair from
tangling and makes it more manageable.
• Cetrimonium chloride: This works brilliantly at detangling coarse and curly
hair.

PRESERVATIVES
Shampoos are predominantly made out of the water and other organic
compounds, contamination from bacteria is possible. This is why preservatives
are added to these formulas to prevent such growth. Some common chemical
compound used in shampoos includes;

• Parabens: Parabens are a popular ingredient in beauty products as they help

prevent the growth of bacteria in the product. Parabens include Butylpharaben,
Methylparaben, and Ethylparaben. However, these ingredients have a bad rep as
they have been linked to the development of breast cancer

• Formaldehyde: This is a powerful ingredient that helps to kill bacteria.

However, due to its strength, this ingredient can irritate your eyes or cause
problems with your, cause skin inflammation, and in cases of prolonged use, can
lead to respiratory issues.

• Salicylic acid: This is a BHA (Beta hydroxyl acid) that is used to keep your
pores clean and free of bacteria and to treat acne. This ingredient works just
as well on your hair as on your skin. This ingredient works well on flaky and
irritated scalps.

• Sodium Benzoate: This ingredient is FDA approved and is generally considered

safe on hair. It helps to prevent the ingredients from getting contaminated.
• Panthenol: This one of the most popular, and probably one of the most crucial
ingredients found in a shampoo. Panthenol is a type of Vitamin B5, which helps
to hydrate and condition your hair, bringing out its natural sheen. This element
also helps repair, thicken, and strengthen damaged hair.
MODIFIERS
Other ingredients are added to the shampoo to modify specific characteristics.
For instance, pacifiers help to make the formula opaque as well as give it a
pearly look, whereas acids are added to adjust pH levels of the shampoo to
provide optimal cleaning. Some common modifiers include;

• Citric Acid: Citric is a relatively inexpensive ingredient whose main job is to

adjust the pH levels in your shampoo. It also helps to add shine to your mane
and makes it smooth.

STABILIZERS
Glycol distearate: This ingredient works to ensure all the ingredients found in
the shampoo are adequately blended so that every drop has the right amount of
ingredients.

• Magnesium Carbonate hydroxide: This ingredient stabilizes the zinc

carbonate.

• Ammonium xylenesulfonate: This is a hydrotrope that makes it easy for water

to dissolve other ingredients. It helps keep some odd ingredients like
fragrances, which are added for the purposes of marketing.

SPECIAL ADDITIVES
Some of the main factors that influence the purchase of shampoo are its odor
and color. To differentiate their products, manufacturers add dyes and
fragrance oils.
These ingredients affect the Shampoo’s color and scent. Since the amount of
scent put in shampoo is so little, most shampoo brands don’t report the
ingredients that they use.
However, the commonly used ingredients include;

• Benzyl Salicylate
• Limonene or Coumarin

HEALTH-BOOSTING INGREDIENTS

Zinc Pyrithione (ZPT): ZPT is an additive that works more on your scalp than
hair. In fact, it is known by many as the leading dandruff destroyer as it helps
slow down skin cell production as well as prevents the formation of flakes on
the scalp.

• Nut and seed oil extracts: Avocado, shea, and jojoba oils help to remove
excess oil build-up in your hair. They also help create a natural shine and add
moisture in your hair, leaving it looking voluminous and healthy.

• Green tea extract: These extracts are rich in polyphenol content, which gives
it antioxidant and healing properties, which is crucial for damaged hair.

LIST OF INGREDIENTS AND ITS

FUNCTIONS:
 Ammonium Chloride
 Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
 Glycol
 Sodium Laureth Sulfate is derived from coconut oils and is used to soften
water and create lather. There was some concern over this particular
ingredient circa 1998 as evidence suggested it might be a carcinogen, and
this has yet to be disproved, as many sources still describe it as irritating to
the hair and scalp.
 Sodium lauryl Sulfate
 Sodium Lauroamphoacetate is naturally derived from coconut oils and is
used as a cleanser and counter-irritant. This is the ingredient that makes
the product tear-free.
 Polysorbate 20 (abbreviated as PEG (20)) is a mild glycol-based
surfactant that is used to solubilize fragrance oils and essential oils,
meaning it cause liquid to spread across and penetrate the surface of a solid
(i.e. hair).
 Polysorbate 80 (abbreviated as PEG (80)) is a glycol used to emulsify (or
disperse) oils in water (so the oils do not float on top like Italian salad
dressing).
 PEG-150 Distearate is a simple thickener.
 Citric acid is produced biochemically and is used as an antioxidant to
preserve the oils in the product. While it is a severe eye-irritant, the sodium
lauroamphoacetate counteracts that property. Citric acid is used to adjust
the pH down to approximately 5.5. It is a fairly weak acid which makes the
adjustment easier. Shampoos usually are at pH 5.5 because, at slightly acidic
pH, the scales on a hair follicle lie flat, making the hair feel smooth and look
shiny. It also has a small amount of preservative action. Citric acid, as
opposed to any other acid, will prevent bacterial growth.
 Quaternium-15 is used as a bacterial and fungicidal preservative.
 Polyquaternium-10 has nothing to do with the chemical Quaternium-15; it
acts as the conditioning ingredient, providing moisture and fullness to the
hair.
 Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate is a water-dispersible emollient that forms
clear solutions with surfactant systems
 Methylisothiazolinone, or MIT, is a powerful biocide and preservative .

SPECIAL INGREDIENTS:
Specialty shampoos, such as those that treat dandruff, dry hair or curly hair,
use additional active ingredients to change the way that the shampoo works. For
example, ketoconazole, metronidazole and fluconazole are among the chemicals
used in dandruff shampoos. Shampoos, like many personal care products, are
made of a number of chemicals, both active and inactive, that together create a
useful and convenient way to get your hair clean.

In the United States, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) mandates that
shampoo containers accurately list ingredients on the products container. The
government further regulates what shampoo manufacturers can and cannot
claim as any associated benefit. Shampoo producers often use these regulations
to challenge marketing claims made by competitors, helping to enforce these
regulations. While the claims may be substantiated, however, the testing
methods and details of such claims are not as straightforward. For example,
many products are purported to protect hair from damage due to ultraviolet
radiation. While the ingredient responsible for this protection does block UV, it
is not often present in a high enough concentration to be effective. The North
American Hair Research Society has a program to certify functional claims
based on third-party testing. Shampoos made for treating medical conditions
such as dandruff or itchy scalp are regulated as OTC drugs in the US
marketplace. In the European Union, there is a requirement for the anti-
dandruff claim to be substantiated as with any other advertising claim, but it is
not considered to be a medical problem.

Cosmetic companies have developed shampoos specifically for those who have
dandruff. These contain fungicides such as ketoconazole, zinc pyrithione and
selenium disulfide, which reduce loose dander by killing fungi like Malassezia
furfur. Coal tar and salicylate derivatives are often used as well. Alternatives
to medicated shampoos are available for people who wish to avoid synthetic
fungicides. Such shampoos often use tea tree oil, essential oils or herbal
extracts.