wit, REICHARD’S sh eo Performance Center ae ? ‘WNe W077 Mapin RG. = Germantown, S903 © (44) 28-04T2 #4805 V-MAX 4 DYNO TUNE KIT INSTRUCTIONS 1. Remove both of the small foun pieces on top of the air box inlets. 1d not remove the foam pieces around the air Box inlet! 2. Renove the big foes plece in hood chat is under the speedo-tach Shroud in front of the handlebare, Note: These foam pieces may have been removed by your dealer. Also remove all vents in the Shroud, side panels, and hood: 3. Remove airboxes and rejet carburetors using a 133-8 main Jet. These should be supplied by your dealer under warranty. DO NOT MODIFY YOUR AIRUOX! "Note: ke have been using 152-5 main jets in our own Sleds very successfully. If temperatures are not extremely cold you Should have no problen with 192.8°s- "Use at your oun disgression. Ko have alse found that leaning down below 192.8 will only make the Sled slower on top end. We have alse lovered our needles down to the #2 clip position: “This will make the sled more responsive on the 4. Ronove your primary clutch from the engine using the proper YXR clutch puller (oatalog part #4768) 5. Unbolt the six bolts which aecure the clutch cover. Note the location of the two shoulder belta and mark the clutch cover so you can re-install them properly: 5. THIS STEP IS VERY IMPORTANT!! Recause of the tremendous amount of torque that the V-sax 4 produces it 1s Important to "roughen up" the Clutch surfaces where the aelt rides to keep the belt from slipping on the clutch surfaces Using the sanding disc from this kit "roughen up" the primary clutch surfaces by sanding in = circular motion toward and away from the Genter of the clutch so that the belt Uravels acrosx tbe sanding marks Sand your clutches until the “glazed” look is gone from the clutch surfaces, This Nill give your belt maxinum grip. Note: This will also be done fo the secondary clutch in the following steps. 7. thoroughly clean your primary clutch. Move the sliding sheave up and down, Waking sure that the sheaves aren't binding: If the sheaves Binds check the post and the sliding sheave bushing (There ight be some burnt belt on the surfaces}. Wipe the clutch surfaces down with avclean ag and Taequer thinner. 8. Now install your eupplied purple apring from the Kit and reinstali the clutch covers Make sure that both the X otaaped in the cover align® with the on the aoveable sheave and that both of the shoulder Gligonent bolts are reinstalled in the original locationsPage 2 9. Reinstall the primary clutch, them remove the secondary clutch and lay flat on your work bench. 10. Notice that the secondary clutch is held together with a circlip. It is necessary to remove the preasure off the cam that the circlip is retaining before trying to remove the circlip. You may want to have someone help you with this. A. Lay the clutch flat on the bench so you are looking at the circlip. B. Place your right hand on the bottom sheave and your left hand on the top sheave and rotate the top sheave counter clockwise about 30 degrees. C. Push down on the secondary cam, then remove the circlip and the Washer underneath it. Note that the circlip has a sharp inside lip that faces up, thie must be reinstalled the same way. D. Slowly let the sheaves return to the relaxed position making sure the secondary cam is being held with slight downward pressure. B. Check the cam slider buttons for wear. The original buttons have been wearing out quickly and should be replaced if worn. Yamaha is currently shipping an improved gray or tan colored button to replace the original white buttons. The tan buttons are the latest ones and give the most aggressive shift pattern. These are the ones you should try te get. IMPORTANT!! Yamaha ig also currently updating the secondary clutch bushings with a new style bushing. We recommend this modification as it improves backshifting and makes the clutching more consistent. 11. Pull the sheaves apart from one another making sure that you don’t lose the steel washer between them. 12. Sand the clutches same as you did the primary clutch. 12. Thoroughly clean the clutch halves and wipe them down with lacquer thinner, reinstall the clutch halves placing the washer you removed between’ them. 14, Install the spring in the C hole. The long end goes into the ca 15. Remove the two screws and washer plate from your old cam and install them on your new custom machined cam. You may polish the ramps fon the new cam if you wish with 400 or 600 grit sandpaper for quicker backshifting and longer button life. 16. Install the camon the splines of the secondary post and locate the end of the spring in the 3rd hole. Make sure the other end of the spring does not slip out of the C-hole or your response will suffer.Page % 17. Now we must pre-load the spring. With your right hand on the bottom sheave and your left hand on the top sheave rotate the top sheave counter clockwise a quarter turn and push down on the secondary cam, install the washer into place then reinstall the circlip making sure that the sharp Inside edge faces up. (This is the 53 degree setting) 18. Test to make sure your moveable sheave has pretension by rotating it counter clockwise 19. Reinstall your clutches and align them to factory specs. (see our clutch alignment spec sheet included} This is very important! 20. Make sure the belt you use is in top condition. If the belt has already been used the surface of the belt that rides against the clutches may be burnt and will cause belt slippage. This will enable the engine to over-rev and performance will suffer badly. 21. All of our testing was done with fully studded V-Max 4's to insure proper results. We recommended 192 studs minimum that are at least :875" long with our #4758 and #4726 single and double hole aluminum angle plates. We have included a stud pattern with this kit that we have had excellent results with. Note: We highly recommended that any V-Max 4 with studs use our #4837 fourth wheel kit to prevent the track from derailing and #4404 rear heat exchanger protector kit to prevent damage to the rear heat exchanger. 22. As you may know, Yamaha is having some inconsistency problems with their secondary clutches on the V-Max 4. There are excessive clearances that vary from sled to sled. This causes some sleds to slightly over rev, and some to drastically over rev. The worst case of over reving we have seen were on glare ice with fully studded machines. Our Dyno Tune Kit is designed for optimum acceleration and works awesome on glare ice with a fully studded track. Because of the inconsistencies in the stock Yamaha secondary after you install our kit you may have to make some small adjustments to fine tune our kit to your sled. The peak horsepower of the V-Max 4’s engine is at 7900-8100 RPM. It is ESSENTIAL that the engine shift at this RPM for maximum performance, If you are revving under 7900 RPM you will need to go back to the steel or aluminum rivets. If you are revving over 8100 RPM you will want to install the lead rivets in your primary weights. Note: Do not run a weaker secondary setting than 53 degrees or you Will cause belt slippage! Do not run a tighter secondary setting than 73 degrees or belt failure may result. The kit you have Just installed is the result of an extensive testing program and is what we feel ix the best all around performance setup. Best performance will generally be obtained with our purple primary spring, steel rivets (stock issue}, a §3 degree secondary setting with the new large bushing and tan buttons. This should give you a shift RPN of 7900-8100 RPM. For better backshifting and more responsive trail riding you may want to tighten the secondary clutch up to 73 degrees (B4 setting). This will reduce the performance slightly but will make the sled more responsive and give better back shifting and belt life. The important thing to remember is that under full throttlethe RPM MUST be between 7900 and 8100 RPM with the stock CDI box or 8000-8300 with our high performance CDI box. Because of inconsistencies in sleds you should fine tune YOUR sled to achieve this optinum RPM. The best approach to this is to decide on the secondary setting you want (53 degrees for maximum performance, or 73 degrees for best trail riding), and then use the rivets in the primary weights to Tine tune the RPM, The sled came from the factory with steel rivets in the weights. In your tool kit came lead and aluminum rivets. By fine tuning your sled to the ideal RPM with the rivets your performance will benefit greatly. PROBLEM SOLVING CHECKLIST RPM TOO HIGH (OVER 8200 RPM) Belt worn out + replace belt Clutches out of alignment tts align clutches to specs Secondary buttons worn out or broken replace buttons Old style secondary clutch bushing Ihave dealer replace Clutches glazed + sand clutches Clutches sticking (dirty) tit clean and polish RPM TOO LOW [BELOW 7900 RPM} * Rivets in weights too heavy ses dnstall lighter rivets * Clutches out of alignment ‘align clutches to specs * Secondary button worn out or broken ... replace buttons = Jetting too rich sss install 133.8 or 132.5 jets * Ski or track alignment bad adjust as necessary * fix it Engine output below specs Check compression 2. Check for seized cylinder or sticking rings 3. Jetting too rich 4. Crank phazing out of spec There are currenty four different rivets available for the primary weights Lightest (Aluminum) Part # 90261-06028-00 Heavier (Light steel } Part # 90261-06017-00 Heavier (Heavy steel } Part # 90261-06019-00 (factory installed) Heaviest (Lead) Part # 90261-06031-00 Tf you have any problems or questions with this kit please feel free to us at 414-251-8472. Thank You .... Have Fun & HANG ON !!