Vogue - April 2016 USA (PDFDrive)

APR
FASHION’S HEAVENLY BODIES

HOW TO TRAIN
LIKE AN OLYMPIAN
NEW BORN TO RUN

THE FASTEST
FAMILY ON EARTH
WAVE
PLUS:
THE FIRM
A CELLULITE
BREAKTHROUGH?
THE SEASON’S
ESSENTIAL
ACCESSORY:
A ROBOT
FROM MUSICIAN TO
MOVIE STAR TO MOGUL, IS THERE
ANYTHING SHE CAN’T DO?
april
78
VOGUE.COM
80
EDITOR’S LETTER
94, 106
MASTHEAD
114
TALKING BACK
Reactions far and wide
120
CONTRIBUTORS
122
UP FRONT
When she met Andy—an
aid worker like herself—he’d
sufered an unimaginable
tragedy. Falling in love,
Jessica Alexander would
discover, doesn’t mean
letting go of the past
128
NOSTALGIA
With her young life going
sideways, Maxine Swann
took the cure at her
grandparents’ twelve-
bedroom manor house out
of a Wharton novel, where
eccentricity was embraced
flash
136
IT GIRL
Riley Keough
138
TALKING FASHION
White, wide-leg trousers
140
TNT
Elisabeth TNT goes to
the world’s end only to
discover that New Zealand
is even more spectacular
than she had imagined
CONTINUED>64
get some
AIR
MOMENT OF THE MONTH, P. 270
TRAVIS SCOTT AND JOAN SMALLS
IN NIKELAB X RT. PHOTOGRAPHED
BY GREGORY HARRIS.
46 VOGUE APRIL 2016 VOGUE.COM

april
142 170 beauty 210
SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY STRIKE A CHORD MOVIES
Noella Coursaris Musunka Guitar-strap bags hit
all the right notes
& health Richard Linklater
and her team of volunteers conjures 1980s
are educating 231 girls 194 Texas with Everybody
in the Congo—and that’s 172 FLASH DRIVE Wants Some, and
just the beginning FINE LINE Pat McGrath, the force Tom Hanks stars in A
Show your stripes in behind some of fashion’s Hologram for the King
144 La Ligne, a new chic- most directional beauty
THE HAMISH FILES essentials label looks, is charting another
course—of the runway
212
UP NEXT
155 174 and into your makeup bag In Sing Street, sixteen-
WOMEN: NEW PORTRAITS CRAFT WORK year-old Ferdia Walsh-
By Annie Leibovitz Form follows function in 198 Peelo plays a would-be
Loewe’s furniture capsule TEA TIME rock star in love
view Jo Malone London’s
deliciously reined
212
new fragrance line is
166 185 steeped in traditions
DESIGN
Take note of Adrienne
DUTCH MASTER HISTORY OF HAIR
of sensual sipping Wong’s whimsical
Designer Ronald van Over the course of the
hand-bound journals
der Kemp’s free spirit last century, hair’s most
200
P RODUCE D BY MA RCUS WA RD FO R N ORT H SI X. P HOTO G RA P HE D AT LAS P OZAS, X ILITLA, WITH FUNDACIÓN PED RO Y ELENA H ER NÁND EZ , A.C. D ETAILS, SEE IN TH IS ISSUE.
is just what fashion memorable moments have
needs right now had their roots in Vogue
RIPPLE EFFECT
Kate Christensen 213
TELEVISION
takes the plunge with
FAS HI O N ED I TO R: CA MI L LA N I C KERSO N . HA I R , SHAY ASHUA L; M A KEU P, H A NN A H MUR RAY. SET D ESIGN, NICH OLAS D ES JAR D INS FOR MARY H OWAR D STUD IO.
A thrilling adaptation of
a forward-thinking
The Night Manager
treatment for cellulite
has Tom Hiddleston
206 as an unlikely spy
FORCE OF NATURE
San Francisco’s Credo 214
boutique is changing TRAVEL
perceptions—and A visit to Guatemala
complexions—with its calls for a stay at the
clean-beauty concept Coppolas’ updated
lakeside resort
people are 214

BOOKS
talkıng about Spring novels feature
lost girls in the big city
209
THEATER 214
Ben Whishaw and SCENE
Saoirse Ronan play foes Two NYC restaurant vets
and former lovers in Ivo celebrate new openings
van Hove’s Broadway
revival of The Crucible
210
fashion
ART & features
Mitchell-Innes & Nash
puts on a survey of nudes, 217
landscapes, and more TOMORROWLAND
by Tom Wesselmann How will the future
family live and dress?
Our prognostications
include android au pairs,
Lean IN
salads from airborne
pods, virtual-reality
vacations on demand—
WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE, P. 236 and plenty of cool
MODEL GRACE HARTZEL IN A MARNI and ultracomfortable
TOP, A NINA RICCI SKIRT, AND
PRADA SHOES. PHOTOGRAPHED
day chic
BY MIKAEL JANSSON. C O N T I N U E D >7 2
64 VOGUE APRIL 2016

april
Gigi Hadid and Lily
Aldridge take the brightest
of the bunch on an
energetic romp for spring
index
284
DIVE IN!
Get ready to plunge
into the adventure and
romance of freshwater
swimming—the
appeal, you’ll soon
ind, is crystal clear
290
IN THIS ISSUE
292
LAST LOOK
cover look
the VENUS
Ledecky has emerged
266
Fantastic as a once-in-a-lifetime
phenomenon, breaking
MONEY FOR NOTHING
RISING
COV E R LOO K: SE T DES I G N , B ET T E A DA M S FOR M A RY HOWA R D STU D I O. P H OTOG RAPH ED AT TH E H OME OF CAR LTON AND DAVID GEBBIA.
Claire Danes and John
FOUR
BORN TO RUN, P. 260
multiple world records
in races short and long.
What’s her secret?
Krasinski star in the
Public Theater’s Dry
Powder—a vicious and
FROM LEFT: EJEGAYEHU, GENZEBE, asks Robert Sullivan hilarious drama skewering
AND TIRUNESH DIBABA, AND
the people who skewer
THEIR COUSIN DERARTU TULU.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY RON HAVIV. 254 our global economy.
KICK OFF By Adam Green
Since their electrifying
win at last year’s 268
230 World Cup, the U.S. EASY DOES IT
WORKING IT women’s team has The anything-goes food
Rihanna has revealed ignited soccer mania. scene in Los Angeles
a new sound, launched Reluctant striker Hamish is unconventional,
an agency, designed Bowles trains with star liberated, creative—and
a debut fashion line, scorer Alex Morgan inluential as never before. Rihanna wears a Tom Ford
and is embarking on a Oliver Strand reports dress. To get this look, try:
63-city world tour. Can 260 Lightful C Tinted Cream SPF
global domination be far BORN TO RUN
Ethiopia is a track-mad
270 30 with Radiance Booster,
behind? By Abby Aguirre MOMENT OF THE MONTH Mineralize Skinfinish
country—but it’s never Amid our ongoing love Natural in Dark Deep,
236 seen anything like the afair with sports—and Veluxe Brow Liner in
WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE Dibabas. Chloe Malle boasting new Velvetstone, Amber Times
A lush, sculpture-strewn heads to Addis Ababa collaborations with Nine Eye Shadow Palette,
Garden of Eden in the to meet the fastest Riccardo Tisci, Kim Jones, False Lashes Waterproof
mountains of central Mexico family on the planet and Jun Takahashi— mascara, Lipstick in
makes a torrid setting Nike steps up into Touch. All by MAC
for the season’s most 264 fashion’s premiership. Cosmetics. Hair, Yusef;
sultry (and, sometimes, TIPPING THE BALANCE By Robert Sullivan makeup, Mark Carrasquillo.
surreal) lowers–by– Inspired by superstar Details, see In This Issue.
Frida Kahlo looks gymnast Simone Biles, 274 Photographers:
Ginny Graves explores WHAT TO WEAR WHERE Mert Alas
250 the life-enhancing It’s the season of the and Marcus Piggott.
FREE STYLE beneits of poise, bold, brilliant, and built-to- Fashion Editor:
Nineteen-year-old Katie posture, and agility move supersatchel. Tonne Goodman.

DENIM FOR DAYS
AMANDA MURPHY, EMILY
RATAJKOWSKI, BINX WALTON, LEXI
BOLING, FERNANDA LY, AND GIGI
Good
JEANS
HADID. DIRECTED BY OLIVER HADLEE
PEARCH, VOGUE.COM, 2015.
Like all things swept

up in a seasonal
refresh, your trusty
blues can get a
boost this spring.
Whether you like
your jeans cropped,
faded, or cuffed,
our denim guide is
full of wonderfully
wearable Wranglers
revamped.
Game ON
FRINGE
BENEFITS
ANNA EWERS,
PHOTOGRAPHED
To match the marvel of athleticism that the world will be BY KARIM SADLI,
VOGUE, 2016.
watching during the Olympics, we highlight the best of Rio de
Janeiro. Find under-the-radar restaurants, shopping destinations,
and more in a tourist’s trove of ideas for an upcoming trip.
TEAM USA
PHOTOGRAPHED
BY THOMAS
PRIOR, VOGUE
.COM, 2015.
SPRING Forward
After a frigid winter, it’s time to turn up the heat on
your wardrobe—and what better way to shake off
the cold than with a new look? From the prettiest
sundresses to sandals in every style, here’s
how to look hot and stay cool all season long.
letter from the editor QUEEN RIRI
RIHANNA IN
SAINT LAURENT BY
HEDI SLIMANE.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY
MERT ALAS AND
MARCUS PIGGOTT.
MOTION GRAPHICS
TRAVIS SCOTT IN NIKELAB X RT.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY GREGORY HARRIS.
in his piece on the brilliantly inno-

vative Nike and its ventures into
fashion (Moment of the Month,
page 270), the real story is about
much more than the stylistic ap-
A DA M S FO R MA RY HOWA RD STU D I O. P HOTOG RA P HE D AT TH E H OM E O F CA RLTON AND DAVID GEBBIA. SCOTT: FASH ION
propriation of hoods, sneaker soles,
RI HA N NA : FAS HI ON ED I TO R: TON N E G O O DM A N. HA I R, YUS EF; M A KEU P, M A RK CA R RASQUILLO; SET D ESIGN, BETTE

and track pants. It is instead about
where we are today—dressing for a
ED I TO R: SA RA MO O NV ES. P RO DUC E D BY K AT E CO LLI N G S -P OST FO R N ORT H SI X. DETAILS, SEE IN TH IS ISSUE.

world where there has never been
a greater fusion of speed, technol-
ogy, mobility, well-being, diversity,
the democracy of the street, and,
yes, looking good. That all of this is
coming together in an Olympic year
Power
only makes it all the more timely.
As I write this, we’ve just inished
seeing the New York fall 2016 col-
lections, where two labels fronted
by music titans—this month’s cover
PLAYERS
star, Rihanna, with Fenty Puma,
and Kanye West with Yeezy—
stirred up the most headlines with
shows that demonstrated exactly
what so many of us are actively
o me, to the editors of Vogue, and no doubt to thinking about right now: connectivity, immediacy, and
T
you, it feels like the magazine has been chart- the involvement of a far greater constituency than those
ing the inluence of sports clothes on fashion merely sitting in the audience watching. (They might also
for at least the past decade. And you’ll ind be responsible for the trend in New York for dark, raucous
plenty more such looks in this issue, whether shows that felt more like nightclubs.) It’s certainly no sur-
the upgraded version of gym bags you can prise that musicians and not movie stars are fronting these
carry just about everywhere (What to Wear Where, page 274) labels, and the reason for that is far more than their inher-
or the futuristically inclined wardrobe depicted in “Tomor- ent sense of style. Both Rihanna and Kanye, like Taylor
rowland” (page 217). Yet as writer Robert Sullivan discusses Swift and Beyoncé (who launches E D I T O R ’ S L E T T E R > 9 0

letter from the editor
C O N T I N U E D F R O M PA G E 8 0
her own athletic collection, Ivy
Park, this month for Topshop),
have an incredible ability to reach
out to their vast global fan bases
with a speed that no one in Hol-
lywood can match. Nor do Kanye
and Rihanna shy away from im-
buing their fashion careers with
a certain political stance. As Ri-
hanna tells writer Abby Aguirre
(“Working It,” page 230), “Wom-
en feel empowered when they can
do the things that are supposed
to be only for men, you know?
It breaks boundaries and it’s lib-
erating when you feel like, Well,
I can do that too.”
Another act of highly person-
al empowerment takes place in
Hamish Bowles’s amusing tale
of how he got back on the soccer
ield after his school years—when
his idea of team colors was mus-
ing on whether his fingernails
should be Shocking Pink or BEND IT
LIKE BOWLES
Jungle Red, and his rudimentary HAMISH WITH
grasp of the sport was summed ALEX MORGAN.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY
up in the axiom “Avoid the ball ANNIE LEIBOVITZ.
at all costs.” This isn’t, of course,
the irst time Hamish has gamely
taken on something he’d much rather not—learning to by the extremely impressive young U.S. champion Alex
drive or foraging for food in a particularly hardscrabble Morgan. You can read how Hamish fared in “Kick Of ”
Oakland neighborhood springs to mind—but he was aided (page 254), but I don’t think I’m giving away too much
in overcoming his long-held aversion to the Glorious Game when I say that it’s not very likely he will be packing a soc-
cer kit among his lilac tweeds when he readies himself for
COLD SHOULDERS
ELIZABETH DEBICKI AND TOM HIDDLESTON his summer travels.
IN AMC’S THE NIGHT MANAGER. Lastly, another arena where speed and agility matters.
I, like everyone else, have been enjoying the new golden age
of television, with so many wonderful productions hitting the
screens (whatever those screens are attached to). The latest of
these, which I urge you all to watch, is AMC’s The Night Man-
ager (People Are Talking About, page 213), an adaptation
of a John le Carré novel starring Hugh Laurie, Olivia Col-
man, Tom Hiddleston, and Elizabeth Debicki, all who turn
in absolutely outstanding performances. That the medium
produces so much engaging entertainment isn’t only down to
the caliber of the actors or the increasingly high production
values. Television just seems so much less encumbered than
TH E NI G H T M A NAGE R : M I TC H JE N KI N S/A M C
Hollywood. As the sports world is teaching us all right now,

being fast and nimble always wins.

ANNA WINTOUR
Editor in Chief
Design Director RAÚL MARTINEZ
Fashion Director TONNE GOODMAN Features Director EVE MACSWEENEY Market Director, Fashion and Accessories VIRGINIA SMITH
Executive Fashion Editor PHYLLIS POSNICK Style Director CAMILLA NICKERSON
International Editor at Large HAMISH BOWLES Fashion News Director MARK HOLGATE
Creative Digital Director SALLY SINGER
Creative Director at Large GRACE CODDINGTON
F A S H I O N /A C C E S S O R I E S
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Editors GRACE GIVENS, ALEXANDRA MICHLER, EMMA MORRISON, MAYA SASAKI Menswear Editor MICHAEL PHILOUZE
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BEAUTY
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CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
ROSAMOND BERNIER, MIRANDA BROOKS, SARAH BROWN, ADAM GREEN, NATHAN HELLER, LAWREN HOWELL, CAROLINA IRVING,
REBECCA JOHNSON, DODIE K AZANJIAN, SHIRLEY LORD, CATIE MARRON, SARA MOONVES, SARAH MOWER, MEGAN O’GRADY,
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talking back
70.7K
Miss 2016
Finding a new face for the cover of Vogue always feels
like an event, and the time was right for ingenue turned
superstar Alicia Vikander. Our January feature “All
About Alicia,” photographed by David Sims, delighted
commenters: “Oh my gosh! She’s stunning thank you!”
wrote @kyla_christopher on Instagram. “So pretty,”
added Fionn Sleeps on Facebook. And Rob Haskell’s
intimate profile (complete with skydiving adventure)
revealed Vikander as the Swede next door. “I love
you, Alicia,” wrote one Vogue.com user. We do too.
SIMPLY THE MOST BEAUTIFUL

WOMAN ON EARTH
@ artdan62
MY NEW SHE IS
FAVORITE GIRL NEXT
@ bagus_santoso LEVEL!!
@ reyjeane
O Canada!
#
1
Turns out our neighbors to the north are
strongly opinionated social-media users.
From the moment it posted to Vogue.com,
John Powers’s January-issue profile of
Canadian prime minister Justin Trudeau
(“North Star”) attracted chart-topping traffic,
with Canadians wanting to cheer and boo
Norman Jean Roy’s striking photographs—
the portrait of Trudeau and his wife, Sophie,
most of all. As The Globe and Mail put it,
“Apparently we can’t stop . . . looking at it.”
WHAT A LEADER.
VIEWED FINALLY.
V I KA N D ER: DAV I D SI M S; TRU DE AUS: N OR MA N JE A N ROY.
TTS4T
STORY
FOR TWO HOTTAWA
MONTHS THE FIRST COUPLE,

PHOTOGRAPHED
KING OF THE SELFIES.
IN THE CANADIAN 78LOGISTI
RUNNING CAPITAL.
DO YOU 9.97M 7.2M VOGUE welcomes correspondence from its readers. Address all mail to Letters, VOGUE Magazine, 1 World
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contributors Nikolaj COSTER-WALDAU
In a show full of dastardly characters, Nikolaj Coster-
Waldau’s Jaime Lannister emerged at the end of season
five as Game of Thrones’s sympathetic dark horse—well,
almost. “There is a lot that people connect to,” says Coster-
Waldau of Jaime. “He’s in love with this woman, but she
happens to be his sister. It’s a messed-up situation.”
If he relates to some of the more likeable aspects of Jaime’s
temperament, other parts—ruthlessness, megalomania,
bloodthirstiness—are anathema to the 46-year-old
father of two teenage girls. His “normal” life—when he’s
not shooting GOT or the film projects he shoehorns into
the show’s hiatus—is based in Denmark, where he lives
with his wife and kids. “In a perfect world I would be with
my family all the time,” says Coster-Waldau, “and every
movie I’m in would shoot in Copenhagen.”—LILI GÖKSENIN
SMART House
To furnish the futuristic setting of “Tomorrowland”
(page 217), Fashion Director Tonne Goodman gathered
tech’s most boundary-pushing gadgetry. At four feet
three, Honda’s industry-leading humanoid robot stands
tall beside Nikolaj Coster-Waldau and Joan Smalls.
With sensitive fingertips and advanced agility, it mimics
mankind’s most complex functioning. This new class of
robotics—complete with CHiP, the adaptive-personality
pet pup, and gesture-controlled dino MiPosaur—
operates with unparalleled intelligence. But it’s the big
toys that can really carry you away: Faraday Future
COSTER-
WALDAU WITH FFZERO1, the electronic concept car, wowed at this
HONDA’S year’s Consumer Electronics Show, and Ehang 184,
HUMANOID a fully autonomous passenger-carrying drone, seeks to
ROBOT
do no less than revolutionize air travel.—ELIZABETH INGLESE
ABBY Aguirre FANNING IN NYC,

WEARING GANNI
“I was floored by how engaged Rihanna TOP AND PANTS
COST E R-WA LDAU: JEF F PATC H. FA N N IN G : LUCAS VI SS ER . AGU I RRE : COU RT ESY OF WILLIAM H OLLOWAY.
is with every little thing she does. One
woman who works with her said that
Rihanna even corrects her grammar
in emails—which I love, of course!”
THE VOGUE.COM CULTURE EDITOR AND WRITER OF
“WORKING IT” (P. 230) ON OUR COVER SUBJECT
Arden FANNING
“Flipping through magazines as a kid,
I remember seeing crushed-up eye shadows
and electric polish spills and thinking,
Whatever job that is, I want a piece of it.”
THE BEAUTY ASSISTANT ON THE ORIGINS
OF HER CAREER ASPIRATIONS
VOGUE.COM
AGUIRRE IN
WOODSTOCK,
NY
up front THE AFTERMATH
HAITI, WHERE THE AUTHOR
WAS POSTED FOLLOWING
THE CATASTROPHIC
2010 EARTHQUAKE.
Love and Grief

When she met Andy—an aid worker like herself—he’d suffered
an unimaginable tragedy. Falling in love, JESSICA ALEXANDER would
discover, doesn’t mean letting go of the past.
or some couples, choosing names for a new- been living with his family in Port-au-Prince, where he was the
F
born can be challenging—nine months of ne- head of the humanitarian coordination oice of the United
gotiation and lists upon lists of combinations. Nations. He was shutting down his computer, getting ready to
Our twin boys were a week old by the time my leave the oice, when the shaking started. His apartment build-
husband, Andy, and I finally made up our ing, where the boys and Laurence were at the time, collapsed.
minds. It wasn’t because we hadn’t prepared; Sitting in my apartment in New York, I stared at their pho-
it was that Andy had a change of heart about tos on my computer screen: his wife, an attractive brunette;
their middle names once they arrived. “Those names belong his elder son, all dimples and loppy brown hair; the younger,
to their brothers,” he said as our sons slept silently side by with a smile so huge and magniicent I could see every last
side. “And I never want these boys to think I want them to be baby tooth. Of course they had to be found, I thought—
anyone other than who they are.” even though I knew the scale of the destruction. (More than
MAT T I A V E LAT I /LUZ P HOTO/ REDUX
I was introduced to Andy through Facebook. Not in the 200,000 people buried, I’d read.) Over the next few days, mes-
way that you’d expect; he’s not even on Facebook. It was sages on Facebook turned from ones of hope and encourage-
mid-January of 2010, and the worst earthquake in Haiti’s his- ment to announcements about where to send condolences.
tory had befallen the small Caribbean country. I irst learned An aid worker myself, I was posted to Port-au-Prince a few
about him on that terrible day when a mutual friend linked weeks later. I spent the next several months working for an
to a Facebook message asking for information on three of NGO as part of the massive relief efort. I didn’t forget about
the missing: Andy’s wife, Laurence, and his two sons, Evan, Andy, but my attention shifted to the hundreds of thousands
seven, and Baptiste, ive. For the past nine months Andy had of Haitian survivors in need of help. Years U P F R O N T>1 2 4

up front Beginning Again
later, I learned that Andy’s mother had also come to Port-au- enthusiastic and optimistic person. He will bike miles out of
Prince during those tense and chaotic months. She went to his way up a mountain just to see what’s at the top. He gets joy
the boys’ school and introduced herself to their teachers, one from inding new recipes and sitting around the dinner table
of whom still carried Evan’s notebook in her purse. Andy’s with bottles of wine, always wanting to prolong the evening,
mother needed to come, she would tell me. She needed to be illing everyone’s glass one more time. Although I knew he
where it happened, to see the trees they had seen every day, thought about his wife and sons constantly, I never wanted to
to breathe the air they had breathed. disturb the good time we were having—perhaps a momentary
On the two-year anniversary of the earthquake, I hap- break from his pain. I wanted him to ofer information when
pened to be in Geneva for a work trip. A friend invited me he was ready, if he was ever ready.
skiing with a few other people; one of them was Andy, who On Christmas that same year, Andy came back to the U.S.,
was now living and working for the UN there. He would and we visited his family’s house in northern Vermont. He
told me that the day he left, he cried in his father’s arms, re-
Andy would wake up panicked membering the last time he was in the house for the holidays:
Evan reading a book on the couch, Laurence in the kitchen
without me next to him in bed. whipping up lunch, Andy helping Baptiste put together a
“I hate it when you do that,” he told train set on the floor under the tree. When Andy told me
about it, I realized that he had never cried in front of me, or
me. “I don’t know where you are” talked about his grief so directly. I asked if he was OK, if
he needed anything from me. “I’m OK,” he said. “But you
come to refer to that period as a dark time. He was bufeted should know, it’s part of the package. I come with this.”
by memories, spent hours on a therapist’s couch, and more Part of me wondered what I was doing getting involved
on the ski slopes, where he found peace in the solitude. with this man and his past. How would he be able to open
When he first moved to Geneva, nine months after the himself back up to the world? I worried there would inevita-
earthquake, he would spend days driving aimlessly on the bly be a fall, an emotional crash, anger and hostility for all
winding roads outside town, navigating this new and lonely that he lost. Would he want to start again? Could he?
and bewildering world. Long after, his therapist would tell
him that each time he left her oice she worried whether it ut in another way, I did know what I was getting
would be the last time she saw him.
We barely made eye contact that weekend; meeting new
people with their inevitable questions and sympathetic looks
distressed him. It wasn’t until months had passed, when I
was back in Geneva and we met again with the same mutual
friends, that we began to get to know each other.
Our irst date was in New York. This time, Andy was in
B into. When I was 22, my mother, a successful child
psychologist, died of cancer. She and my father
had gotten engaged three weeks after they met,
and even after 28 years together, my mom still
referred to my dad as “her boyfriend.” After her death, tasks
like cleaning out Mom’s closet and going through boxes of her
professional documents, scrawled with her familiar doodles,
town for work and sent me a brief email asking me to dinner. went on for years. We couldn’t bear to get rid of anything.
It was an ordinary date. We ate at a tapas restaurant, split During this time I’d imagine Dad coming home, turning
a bottle of wine, held hands across the table, and casually on the lights one at a time as he entered each empty room.
lirted. I was taken aback at just how normal it was, at how I couldn’t stand the thought of him making dinner for him-
normal he was. I don’t know what I expected—perhaps self and then slumping down on the couch in front of the
someone who seemed broken or angry. But I was the one television where he’d doze and wake up hours later, which is
who was on edge. After dinner we went to a crowded bar, how he spent many nights. Work helped him rebuild. Dad
where a man cut in front of us to get a drink, grimacing wasn’t a widower at work—he was a respected doctor, needed
rudely at Andy. I wanted to smack the guy across the face, by others. At irst, I accompanied him to social gatherings,
to yell, “Do you know what this person has been through? acting as his date to weddings, going with him to friends’ art
Do you have any idea?” To me, the world needed to protect openings in the city, both of us relying on each other in ways
Andy; he had exceeded his quota of bad events no matter we never had before. But after a while, he began to brave travel
how commonplace and trivial they might be. and dinner parties alone, and eventually began dating.
We didn’t mention the earthquake until much later in Andy’s healing was less straightforward. He left Haiti
the night, when he scrolled through a folder on his phone immediately after the earthquake and took ten months of,
labeled “My Loves,” swiftly swiping photos aside to show visiting friends and family around the world, never spending
me another image of his sons emerging from the ocean, then more than a couple of weeks in one place. He couldn’t bear
one of him and his wife—he was holding her by the waist the voices of children, or the sight of carousels, and inding
and resting his chin on her shoulder—and one of all of them outposts where he wouldn’t have to face such things wasn’t
together. They had gone to an island of the coast of Haiti easy. In the end, he returned to the UN because, like my
for New Year’s vacation, and his last photos were of the four dad, he knew himself at work. He could have easily moved
of them standing on the beach. to a remote hardship post where he would be distracted by
After that night, Andy and I continued to see each other constant chaos. But he thought he’d end up an alcoholic
long distance, Skyping every day, visiting each other every emergency junkie, unrecognizable to his former self. For most
three weeks. I asked few questions about his past, his family, UN aid workers, the Geneva headquarters is a respite from
their lives. Andy seemed to be doing well; he is a naturally the messiness and rigors of ield postings. U P F R O N T>1 2 6

up front Beginning Again
For Andy, it was a place without distractions, where on
Sundays the whole city shut down and there was nothing
for him to do but come to terms with the new reality of his
life. He forced himself to grapple with it every silent evening,
every still day, waking each morning asking himself, Which
one do I mourn today? It was only by staring at the silence,
the absence in his life, so uncompromisingly that he was able
to come to some measure of acceptance. He believes that if
he had buried his head in Afghanistan or Somalia he would
have been lost forever.
Andy never had the chance to clean out his wife’s closet,
or the closets of his sons. He never had to go through their
effects, confronting the memories in each object, because IN BLOOM
everything was destroyed. The abruptness of the loss haunted JESSICA AND
HER HUSBAND,
him for a long time. I’m a light sleeper, and often in the early ANDY, ON THEIR
days of our relationship I’d move in the middle of the night WEDDING DAY.
to the couch, where I could toss and turn without disturbing
him. Andy would wake up panicked. “I hate it when you do baseball-capped frat boy and an artist from Paris. He re-
that,” he told me. “I don’t know where you are. From one day members coming home from work and inding her and his
to the next, Laurence was gone from our bed.” From then sons hiding in enchanted forts in the living room, furniture
on, when I went to the couch, I’d leave something of mine and sheets of cardboard and canvas arranged together like a
on the pillow or on top of the covers: clothes arranged in the huge art installation. Evan was a playful and calm boy, who
outline of my body, a photo of the two of us, the book I was could sit on flights coloring and entertaining himself for
reading—any signal to reassure him I was in the next room. hours, who loved to hike, even though he was more cerebral
than sporty. Baptiste was the dreamer, who loved Looney
our years after the earthquake, Andy and I got Tunes and mimicked Road Runner by winding up his legs
F married. Early in our marriage, people came to

me to express their sorrow about Andy’s loss, peo-
ple who had never even acknowledged it to him.
“How is he doing?” they’d ask in hushed tones. “I
can’t imagine what he went through. How does he go on?”
Once, we visited a close friend of mine whose two-year-old
son had gotten his hand stuck in the elevator earlier that day.
and arms before racing out of a room. As time has passed,
my sorrow about their loss has intensified. I find myself
getting emotional as Andy, calm and smiling, tells me a
story about Baptiste’s irst crush; or imitates Evan’s adorable
mispronunciation of words; or remarks, while we’re paying
bills, that Evan loved doing math problems just for fun.
These were the memories he once had to ward of, because
He was ine, but my friend was clearly shaken. She relayed they were too raw. But they comfort him now. “I knew them
the story to us, and Andy immediately replied, “That sounds better than anyone,” he says. “I’m a richer person because of
awful. You must have been terriied.” Later, my friend said to the years we shared. I do things diferently. I speak diferently
me with tears in her eyes, “I have no idea how he manages to because of them. Parts of them are inside me.”
be so empathetic to my little scare.” There are times, of course, when I can’t help comparing
I also notice people’s insensitivity. Last April, after the myself to Laurence and wonder how he could love two
earthquake in Nepal, Andy was in a meeting coordinating the such distinct people. I think back to something my father
humanitarian response. A colleague sitting next to him said to told me right after mom died, when he was at the height of
the group, “You know, after Haiti we joked that if something
happens in the Kathmandu Valley we’d look back on Haiti as As the ashes mingled with the
sunny days.” As if what happened to Andy had happened in
a movie, and his wife and sons were just characters in a script. water, turning the stones
Of course, disasters like Nepal bring Andy back to that underneath a foggy gray, we knew
time. At work he must attend meetings where search-and-
rescue is planned, where the destruction is detailed, where that the future held life
death tolls are tallied. Sometimes he inds himself masochis-
tically reading about children being pulled out of the rubble his grief—your mother was the love of my life. Hearing that
alive—his own fantasies never realized. as a daughter, I felt comforted. As the wife of a widower,
Andy often thinks about who his boys would be now. He I felt that sentiment as a betrayal. But I’ve watched my fa-
looks at his nephew, born the same year as Evan, and won- ther remarry, and because of that I know that it is possible
ders whether Evan would be that tall, starting to notice girls, to have more than one love.
and also be winning swim meets. The movie Boyhood, which Sharing another person like this isn’t always easy. I once
tracks its main character from six years old—one year older needed to get into Andy’s computer and asked for his pass-
CESA R LEC HOW IC K
than Baptiste when he died—unnerved him as he walked word to log on. He yelled it to me from the shower, a strange
through their potential years together. word he had to spell out and some numbers. “What’s that?”
Over time, he’s revealed more about all of them. He and I asked. “It’s Laurence’s nickname and birthday.” A sharp
Laurence were the unlikely couple that worked magically—a pain spread through my chest C O N T I N U E D O N PA G E 2 8 6

nostalgia ONE STEP AT A TIME
NATALIA VODIANOVA
AT THE MOUNT, EDITH
WHARTON’S HOME
IN THE BERKSHIRES,
PHOTOGRAPHED BY
ANNIE LEIBOVITZ
FOR VOGUE, 2012.
House of Mirth
When her young life started going sideways, MAXINE SWANN
took the cure at her grandparents’ twelve-bedroom manor house
out of a Wharton novel, where eccentricity was embraced.
was eighteen, in the throes of a nervous breakdown, Alaska. I took a job in the oice of a theater company that
I
when I checked myself in to my grandparents’ flew around in little planes, performing their shows in re-
house in the Berkshires. I had recently graduated mote locales. I found an apartment on the hillside in town
with lying colors from Phillips Academy Ando- overlooking the water, got a library card. The landscape was
ver, but suddenly I was having trouble doing the beautiful, even through the constant blur of rain. But I was
simplest things: walking, talking, reading a menu, spending more and more time alone, reading and writing,
dialing a phone. The world appeared as if in a fog. huddled in my apartment. One evening, as I was returning
I couldn’t see straight; I could barely hear. Other people home from work, a group of dogs ambushed me on the street.
loomed as shadowy igures through the mist, approaching One bit me on the inner thigh, leaving deep teeth marks. I
or retreating, nearly always threatening. began to feel more and more afraid of going out.
It started in the months after graduation. I had decided Next I went to London. Through a contact, I found a job
to take the year of before college and travel. I knew that I in an upscale restaurant called the River Café. One day, I
wanted to be a writer, and in my mind I was beginning my was waiting on a large table of businesspeople out to lunch.
apprenticeship. I would read and write, explore the world, They all wanted steak, but each cooked a diferent way. My
work at whatever job that came along. First I went to Juneau, ears felt stuffed with cotton; I wasn’t N O S TA L G I A >1 3 4

nostalgia Safe Haven
hearing well. I got the orders all wrong and then, confused
at my own mistake, dropped a plate, the warm bloody steak
landing on my foot with a plop. The owners, two women,
gently suggested I rest.
I was feeling more and more jittery, but I didn’t want to go
home, equivalent in my mind to admitting defeat. If I didn’t
stick this out, I would never be a writer. “I just have to rest,”
I told myself. “I just have to get somewhere where I can rest.”
A man I’d been seeing on and of, whom I’ll call Paul, got
in touch. He was on his way to France. Did I want to meet
up? A friend had ofered him a house in the countryside in
Bordeaux. On my way there to meet him, I pictured myself
falling in front of moving cars on the street, out the doors of
the speeding train. I clutched lampposts, guardrails. I even
pictured myself falling when there was nowhere to fall, when manor house just down the road from the TO THE
I was simply sitting waiting on a bench. Mount, Edith Wharton’s grand home in MANOR BORN
THE AUTHOR’S
Paul was a writer himself, ten years older than me, and full Lenox, Massachusetts. At Cherry Hill, as GRANDMOTHER
of opinions about how to do everything—how to peel a pear, the house was called, mental illness wasn’t AT THE AGE
OF FOUR.
wear your hair, clean your ears, keep a strict writing regimen, shunned—there was no woman in the
talk to strangers on the phone, wipe a tile loor. Plunging into attic—but, rather, managed. I was one in a line of many
a relationship in my state was overwhelming, and even more refugees who showed up at the house in a fragile state and
so with a man who intimidated me. I stumbled around the found a safe haven. Decades earlier the arrangement had been
house, tried to force myself to speak, gave up and took to the formalized when the founder of the Austen Riggs Center,
bed, where I lay nearly catatonic, staring out at the vineyards the tony psychiatric institution in neighboring Stockbridge,
in their pretty little rows, until Paul inally persuaded me to approached my grandparents with a proposition. The institu-
get on a plane and ly home. tion was experimenting with a new program in which patients
Nervous conditions run through the family bloodlines, who’d made progress would be sent to live in nearby homes.
along with more serious maladies like manic depression. My Aware of my grandparents’ acceptance, even valorization,
grandmother’s great-aunt Clover Hooper Adams, an accom- of eccentricity, as well as of their need for money—they had
plished portrait photographer, was married to Henry Adams suffered a great loss of wealth during the Depression and
afterward, due to my grandfather’s spendthrift ways—Dr.
Riggs asked if they’d be interested in housing Riggs’s outpa-
I began to wander through tients during the latter stages of their treatment.
the house, rediscovering childhood The doctors at Riggs were enamored with Grandma,
whose indirect methods and subtle ways they thought of as
wonders: John La Farge watercolors, wonderfully creative. “They were all just so peculiar that you
Whistler paintings, little velvet boxes immediately felt that you were OK,” Sally Begley, a Riggs
outpatient who became a lifelong family friend, says of the
stuffed with human hair scene at Cherry Hill. As part of the curative process, Sally
had been enrolled to take care of a baby—my uncle Nick,
and written about by Henry James. (“Clover Hooper has as it turned out—and took it upon herself to clean up the
it—intellectual grace—Minny Temple has it—moral sponta- kitchen every night after dinner. Even after she’d returned to
neity,” James wrote of the two women [Temple was his cousin] Radclife, she would rush back to the house on weekends to
who served as models for his great American heroines, Daisy study; later, she and her new family settled in the cottage at
Miller and Isabel Archer.) For her part, Clover once quipped the bottom of the drive.
of James’s style: “He chews more than he bites of.” When her My own “cure” was difuse; it was multifaceted. A good
father died, Clover, age 42 and deeply depressed, committed part of it was that, while provided meals and shelter, I was left
JOH N BR I GG S P OT T ER /COURT ESY O F M A X I N E SWA N N
suicide by drinking developing luid; after spending time in to my own devices. As children, we had always visited Cherry
various psychiatric institutions, Grandma’s sister, Bunny, was Hill twice a year—in the summer to sail on the Stockbridge
given a lobotomy—the only way, doctors assured the family, Bowl, in the winter to ski and celebrate Christmas—but until
that she would be able to return home and take care of her this visit, I had never been there on my own. At irst, I just
two small children. But not all the stories were tragic. My stayed in my room and in the adjacent bathroom, taking long
great-great-grandfather Ned Hooper, who had a proclivity baths. Then, tentatively, I began to wander through the house,
toward depression, lived a full life that included a successful rediscovering childhood wonders. Grandma, who was from
marriage and ive children as well as a distinguished career as a family of hoarders, was a hoarder herself: Bare lightbulbs
treasurer of Harvard University—before he checked himself hung from the basement ceiling illuminated rows and rows
into a psychiatric institute near the end of his life. of ear trumpets, sewing machines, irons, antiquated micro-
I now followed in his footsteps, though in my case the clinic scopes, while in the attic rested the entire estates of ances-
was my grandparents’ turn-of-the-century twelve-bedroom tors long gone—John La Farge C O N T I N U E D O N PA G E 2 8 6

FL A SH
EDITOR: CHLOE MALLE
IT
GIRL
Riley
CO LU MB I NE GO LDSM I TH . FAS HI ON E DI TO R: DJU N A BE L. HA I R, T E RRI WA LKE R; M AKEUP, TSIPPORAH LIEBMAN. D ETAILS, SEE IN TH IS ISSUE.
Keough
RAINBOW BRIGHT
KEOUGH, IN A GUCCI
DRESS, AT THE
BAR AT MARVIN IN
LOS ANGELES.
I
n 2004, Priscilla and Lisa Marie Presley, and Lisa
Marie’s daughter, Riley Keough, then fourteen, posed
for the cover of Vogue’s Age Issue. In ball dresses, the
three generations stood holding one another in a loose
embrace, Lisa Marie and Riley staring down the cam-
era with the cheekbone and chin structure impossible
to detach from every iconic photo of Elvis. “I think I was one
of the youngest people to be on the cover of Vogue,” recalls
Keough, now 26, of the shoot. “But I was generally unfazed by
things like that when I was a kid,” she adds. “In a good way.”
Keough was raised with the idea that being as private as pos-
sible within the public eye was paramount. After a childhood
spent under the radar, though, she started modeling. “I had
this urge to make money and be independent. F L A S H >1 3 8

FL ASH It Girl
I saw a friend’s sister model and thought, That’s what I’ll do.
I was twelve.” The plan was to use the money she earned in
front of the camera to put herself through ilm school. At
nineteen, with no acting experience, Keough went on an audi-
tion to play Marie, sister of Dakota Fanning’s Cherie Currie,
in the Kristen Stewart–led The Runaways—and she booked
it. “I had no idea what to do,” she confesses. “I’d never been
on a ilm set. To me, acting was what I liked watching, which
was people being human and not too over-the-top.” Last
summer, she appeared as one of the wives in Mad Max: Fury
Road—in the process meeting a stuntman named Ben Smith-
Petersen, who showed her around Australia, where the crew
was doing reshoots. Last year the two were married in front of
90 guests at California’s Calistoga Ranch. The bride wore Del-
IN COACH 1941.
phine Manivet and loved the party—but hated the attention.
It’s Keough’s innate unassumingness that makes her per-
formance in this month’s The Girlfriend Experience even more
compelling. In the thirteen-episode Starz series, inspired loose-
WITH BLAKE LIVELY,
ly by Steven Soderbergh’s 2009 ilm of the same title, Keough
FRONT ROW AT plays Christine—a law school student who starts working as
MICHAEL KORS FALL
2016 SHOW IN NYC.
an escort and becomes enthralled with the money, power, and
adrenaline—with a control, subtlety, and raciness that are elec-
trifying. “We wanted to tell the story of this girl who doesn’t
have a terrible background, wasn’t abused, who ends up doing
I T G I RL : KO RS: DAV ID X P RUT T I N G/ BFA /R E X SH UT T ERSTO CK . COACH 1941: DANIEL ZUCH NIK/ © GETTY IMAGES. J ENNER : MICH AEL
sex work—who happens to also be in law school, who happens
to also be really smart.”––MOLLY CREEDEN
LO CC I SA N O/ © G ET T Y I MAG ES. KE BE D E : B EN GA BB E / © G ET TY I MAGES. KLOSS: ACE/INFPH OTO.COM. XI: PH IL OH .

Wıde,Wıde World
MING XI
IN CÉLINE
PANTS.
KARLIE KLOSS
IN AMANDA
KENDALL WAKELEY PANTS.
JENNER
IN CALVIN
KLEIN
COLLECTION.
LIYA
KEBEDE IN
PROENZA
SCHOULER.
Crisp alabaster trousers—appearing
at once voluminous and slender—lead us
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cheerfully into spring.
TO VOTE FOR YOUR FAVORITE
LOOK IN OUR 10-BEST-DRESSED
LIST, POSTED EVERY MONDAY F L A S H >1 4 0
FL ASH WINDY CITY
TAKING IN THE SUN ON A WALK ALONG LAKE WAKATIPU IN
BEAUTIFUL QUEENSTOWN—ON A SURPRISINGLY CHILLY DAY.
TABLE SETTING
RIGHT: MY
JOURNEY TO
THE OTHER SIDE
NECESSITATED
CONSTANT
REHYDRATION.
BELOW: OUR
DINNER
TABLE WITH A
VERDANT VIEW.
TNT For a comparatively small country at the end of the Earth,

New Zealand was illed to the brim with treats. After touching
down in Auckland, a quaint city full of cool little restaurants,
cold-press juiceries, and boutiques, we aimed to explore the
famous beaches along the North Island. Despite intel from lo-
cal friends, it was hard to choose where to begin: Rangiputa,
Coopers Beach, Ninety Mile Beach, Bay of Islands? In the
end we just hit the road and encountered one stretch of sand
more beautiful than the last.
One afternoon, the sky pouring down with rain, we drove
to the Kawiti glow worm caves and took a tour by lashlight.
We scrambled through stalagmites and past stalactites, and
Elisabeth TNTgoes to the world’s end when the guide switched of his light, we saw thousands of
only to discover that New Zealand is even sparkling glow worms above our heads. Easy to imagine a
Maori princess snuggling up here for her nap.
more spectacular than she had imagined. Next stop was Queenstown on the South Island. A gem
of a town with an alpine vibe nestled on Lake Wakatipu. A
ave you ever wondered what the other side friend of mine, Nina Flohr, who happened to be in the area
H
of the world looks like? I have—ever since I with her Kiwi boyfriend, Ben Fisher, invited us camping at a
was a little girl in my nursery spinning a big cabin in the middle of nowhere. To get there we drove along a
ME A D OW: N I N A FLO HR . A LL OT HE RS : COU RTESY O F T NT.
illuminated globe. The farther the better, I steep dirt track where I kept wondering how Ben was able to
thought: Easter Island, French Polynesia, keep the car from spilling of the mountain. Suddenly, tucked
Papua New Guinea, New Zealand. between green hills were beautiful Lake Luna and a simple
What a pristine place New Zealand is! All tumbling green log cabin—nothing else. Ben expertly barbecued a feast and
hills, and forests thicker than any I have seen. On a recent we sat by the ire, watching the sun slowly disappear behind
visit, I found my childhood fantasies matched again and the mountain. Just to remind us that nature has a temper, a
again. My friend Eva-Maria Shuman and I took a bumpy ride sharp gust of wind whipped up, then another.
in a single-engine plane over Milford Sound—a fjord framed Eventually our entire barbecue was blown away—and
by waterfalls that made us gasp in amazement. We saw snow- torrential rains began, a storm raging so violently that
capped mountains like sugar-coated chunks of Toblerone, the cabin rattled and I imagined the whole roof would
glaciers, and brilliant-green islands dotting the water. It was ly away and then the whole little house. Where will you
no wonder even a seasoned traveler like Rudyard Kipling is take us, Mr. Wind, I wondered . . . ? That adventure is for
said to have called this place the eighth wonder of the world. another time. F L A S H >1 4 2
WANT MORE OF THE UNE XPECTED?

FOLLOW TNT’S ADVENTURES AT VOGUE .COM/ TNT.
BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE ALL- NEW 2016 CHE VROLET MALIBU.
140 VOGUE APRIL 2016
FL ASH Social Responsibility
World
ClassNoella Coursaris
Musunka and
her team of
volunteers are
educating 231girls
in the Congo—
and that’s just
the beginning.
INNER CIRCLE
ABOVE: DURING HER TRIPS TO KALEBUKA, COURSARIS MUSUNKA
CATCHES UP WITH THE LOCAL WOMEN AT ONE OF THE WELLS
BUILT BY MALAIKA AND (LEFT) ASSISTS DURING CLASSES.
unearthed the dire need for wells (“There was almost no clean
water in the village,” Coursaris Musunka says), they built
ive of them; feeding on the momentum, FIFA sponsored a
community center complete with its own soccer ield. Three
years later the complex serves more than 7,000 people annu-
ally, with classes in French and Swahili and programs to teach
leadership and entrepreneurship to both youth and adults.
Coursaris Musunka’s career in modeling began when she
moved to London to study English and was scouted on the
street. She continues to live in the city now with her husband
and young family, but has transitioned from modeling to being
a mum and CEO full-time. She visits Malaika regularly, often
with her kids, JJ (ive) and Cara (almost two), in tow. (“I’ve
e started with 104, then it grew to 150 . . . been to the Congo thirteen times,” JJ proudly proclaims.)
W 180 . . .” The former model Noella

Coursaris Musunka is explaining the
origins of the Malaika School in Kale-
buka, a small village in the southeastern
corner of the Democratic Republic of Congo, which is cur-
rently in the business of feeding and educating 231 girls—no
small feat in a country where nearly half of school-age chil-
When she’s not on the ground, Coursaris Musunka Skypes
daily with local staf or texts on WhatsApp. “All of our girls
have a story,” she says. “Take Esther, who was knocked over
by a motorbike and wasn’t coming to school.” It turned out
that her parents couldn’t aford to take her to the hospital, so
Malaika’s staf, after paying a visit to her home, did just that.
“If we had gone there two days later, she would have died.”
dren are not attending school. Coursaris Musunka was once Malaika contributes almost 100 percent of donations di-
a young girl in the DRC, but when her father died, her mother, rectly to the school itself. The result is an organization that is
unable to support herself and a child, sent her to live with rela- expanding at the swift pace of a Silicon Valley start-up. This
tives in Europe. “When I saw my mum after thirteen years, she past winter the school received 50 new computers, and in
was like a stranger to me,” she says. “But I’m thankful to her February they converted to solar power; a library, meanwhile,
COURTESY OF M A LA I KA ( 2 )
because she tried to give me a better chance.” is currently under construction on the grounds.
Now Malaika, the foundation that Coursaris Musunka Coursaris Musunka sees her work in the Congo as one
founded, aims to do the same thing for other girls. At irst important step in a series of continental improvements. “A lot
they sponsored orphans, but she and her team quickly saw of people ask if we will open more schools,” she says. “For
the need for something with more impact. “So we built a me, though, it’s about one good-quality school—it’s a blessing
school from scratch,” she says. When the construction process just to have set it up. I love what I do.”—LILI GöKSENIN

the hamish files EMPIRE BUILDER
BELOW: PAUL POIRET’S TRADEMARK ROSE
ADORNS HIS 1907 JOSÉPHINE DRESS, ON
DISPLAY AT THE MUSÉE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS.
LACMA: HAMISH BOWLES. POIRET: © MUSÉE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS, PARIS/PHOTO: JEAN THOLANCE.
STYLE COUNCILS
LEFT: MACARONIS AND DANDIES
Exhibition
INTERMINGLE AT LACMA.
Pamela Golbin, who promises “a chron-

ological frieze of the evolution of men’s,
children’s, and women’s fashion for the
DRESSING
last 300 years”—all of it, including 70
newly conserved pieces never on view
before, displayed for the first time not
behind glass but in the museum’s high-
ceilinged nave. “One of the biggest challeng-
I
n Los Angeles for Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent es we’ve always faced presenting fashion in a museum environ-
show, I took the opportunity to head to the LACMA ment is that clothes don’t move,” Golbin explained—so she
archives for a behind-the-scenes peek at “Reigning has worked with the distinguished ballet choreographer (and
Men” (April 10 through August 21) with the mu- director of An American in Paris on Broadway) Christopher
seum’s senior costume curator, Sharon Takeda. Five Wheeldon, who has articulated the movements of the special-
years in the making, the exhibition celebrates the ly designed “corps de ballet of mannequins,” as he describes it,
evolution of the peacock male from London’s macaronis of and produced short movies featuring dancers from the Paris
the 1770s to the Hanna-Barbera–colored hip-hop of Jeremy Opéra Ballet dressed in translucent copies of the collection’s
Scott. It wouldn’t have been possible without LACMA’s clothes.The ilms also indicate the underpinnings that helped
acquisition, in 2008, of the 500-piece costume collection to shape the silhouettes, while suggesting the evolving body
assembled by rival London- and Switzerland-based dealers language that the clothes demanded. H A M I S H >1 5 3
Martin Kamer and Wolfgang Ruf—“I marveled at the amaz-
ing cache of eighteenth- and nineteenth-century menswear,”
Takeda said. Subsequent gifts and acquisitions, including a
large 1980s and 1990s Armani wardrobe, outrageously wide-
legged 1920s Oxford bags, and an original 1940s zoot suit,
bring the collection—which will be showcased in an installa-
tion by L.A.–based Commune—into the twenty-irst century.
In Paris, meanwhile, the Musée des
STEP LIGHTLY
Arts Décoratifs celebrates 30 years of NAOMI CAMPBELL
its own costume department by fea- AND CHRISTY
TURLINGTON IN
turing stars from the museum’s aston- TODD OLDHAM,
ishing treasury in “Fashion Forward” PHOTOGRAPHED BY
ARTHUR ELGORT;
(April 7 through August 14), curated by VOGUE, 1992.

the hamish files
“I like extremes,” Todd Oldham told Vogue in 1992. “I can’t
imagine being in the middle of anything.” When I joined
the magazine that year, Oldham was New York’s designer
du jour, celebrated for his kaleidoscopic prints and playful
embellishments for the retro-tastic Deee-Lite crowd. To
celebrate a gift of his archive pieces to the Rhode Island
School of Design, their museum is hosting “All of Every-
thing: Todd Oldham
Fashion” (April 8
through September
11), which Oldham
himself is designing, in
part, as an eye-popping
lower garden.
Finally, inding my-
self in Orlando, Flor-
ida, for the first time
(to train with soccer
ARTS AND CRAFTS
supernova Alex Mor- LEFT: A SUBLIME STAINED-GLASS WINDOW TRANSPLANTED FROM THE
gan—see “Kick Off,” BALLROOM OF TIFFANY’S MANHATTAN HOME AT THE MORSE MUSEUM.
ABOVE: AN EVOCATION OF TIFFANY’S LIVING ROOM AT LAURELTON HALL.
page 254), I took the
opportunity to visit the Charles Hosmer Morse Museum from Laurelton Hall, Tifany’s Long Island manse, after it
of American Art, a jewel box of Arts and Crafts treasures was devastated by ire in 1957—including the breathtaking
with an emphasis on the hallucinogenically beautiful work Byzantine chapel that the designer created for the 1893
of Louis Comfort Tifany. The collection was assembled by World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago, which helped
the Chicago heiress Jeannette Genius McKean and her hus- to establish the scion of the famous jeweler as the country’s
band, Hugh F. McKean, and includes masterworks salvaged great decorative-arts genius of the era.—HAMISH BOWLES
True Colors
When I was at the English equivalent of
grammar school, my fellow schoolboys
plastered their bedroom walls with images
of a beaming Farrah Fawcett in a clinging red
singlet or the gurning Bay City Rollers in high-
waisted tartan trews, while I pinned up posters
of illustrated Vogue covers by Helen Dryden
and George Wolfe Plank from the First World
War era. Inspired by the chic special-edition
French magazines like Gazette du Bon Ton,
Condé Nast himself had transformed Vogue by
commissioning great illustrators to create
these covers. Following the escapist visuals of
the war years, Nast’s stable of artists reflected
the jagged Art Deco of the Jazz Age (the first
color photograph cover was Edward Steichen’s
image of a girl in a swimsuit brandishing a
beach ball, published in July 1932).
Now you can be your own Vogue artist with
Vogue Colors A to Z (Knopf), assembled by
our magazine’s very own Valerie Steiker.
Illustrator Cecilia Lehar has reduced the vivid
works of artists including Eduardo Benito,
HAMISH BOWLES
Harriet Meserole, and Georges Lepape

to elaborate outlines so that you can allow
your own imagination to run amok—as
in this “D is for Dragon” by yours truly.—H.B.
VOGUE.COM
WOMEN:
NEW PORTRAITS
ANNIE LEIBOVITZ
Over four and a half decades, Annie Leibovitz has refined the art of
portraiture in images that are profound, provocative, and revelatory of the
times we live in. Her photographs for American Vogue and Vanity Fair,
and for books and exhibitions, have brought us an extraordinary range of
subjects from the most celebrated to the most humble. In “Women,” an
exhibition that opened at the Corcoran Gallery of Art in Washington, D.C.,
sixteen years ago, Leibovitz’s lens captured female Supreme Court justices,
senators, artists, athletes, maids, mothers, businesswomen, comedians,
actors, architects, and soldiers.
Amplifying that phenomenal body of work, Leibovitz, with exclusive
commissioning partner UBS, presents the 2016 traveling exhibition
“WOMEN: New Portraits.” Ten cities—London, Tokyo, San Francisco,
Singapore, Hong Kong, Mexico City, Istanbul, Frankfurt, New York, and
Zurich—are hosting the photographer’s response to changes in the roles
of women, presenting images from the original project alongside recent
subjects, all of whom touch our lives today.
“WOMEN: New Portraits”

The Presidio’s Crissy Field, 649 Old Mason Street, San Francisco, CA 94129
March 25 to April 17, 2016
Monday–Sunday 10:00 A.M.–6:00 P.M., Friday until 8:00 P.M.
www.ubs.com/annieleibovitz
#WOMENxUBS by #AnnieLeibovitz
VOGUE.COM VOGUE APRIL 2016

155
Misty Copeland,
ballet dancer,
New York City, 2015.
Sally Mann,
photographer,
Lexington,
Virginia, 2015.
Malala Yousafzai,
spokesperson for
the right of girls
to an education,
Birmingham,
England, 2016.
Sheryl Sandberg,
Chief Operating
Oicer of Facebook,
Menlo Park,
California, 2015.
Gloria Steinem,
writer, activist,
New York City, 2015.
EDITOR: MARK HOLGATE
Dutch
Master
DESIGNER RONALD VAN DER KEMP’S
FREE SPIRIT IS JUST WHAT FASHION
NEEDS RIGHT NOW.
onald van der Kemp is
R
living proof that you can
buck the fashion system
and win. The Amsterdam-
based designer doesn’t do
runway shows. He negates
the idea of seasons, instead calling what
he does a wardrobe, with all that implies:
pieces resonant with personal choice; con-
SE BAST I A N K I M. FASH I O N ED I TO R: KA R EN K A I SE R. HA I R, T I N A OUT E N; M A KEU P, B ENJAMIN PUCKEY.

tradictory impulses somehow all making
sense together. He very rarely buys fabrics,
relying instead on the found, the sourced,
the discovered (he was recently gifted
a trove stashed away in the archive of the
late Dutch couturier Frans Molenaar).
And yet. . . . “I hate the word sustainabil-
ity,” says van der Kemp, 51, one slate-gray
afternoon in late January in Paris, where
he is showing his newest garderobe during
the haute couture, “but there V I E W >1 6 8
A STAR EARNS HIS STRIPES
THE DESIGNER TURNS THE AMERICAN FLAG
INTO A COOL FASHION STATEMENT. ON MODEL
SOPHIA AHRENS: RVDK/RONALD VAN DER KEMP
LEATHER-TRIMMED TOP ($2,755) AND COTTON-
TWILL PANTS ($1,325). NET-A-PORTER.COM.
DETAILS, SEE IN THIS ISSUE.

New Amsterdam
HOUSE OF HOLLAND
RONALD VAN DER KEMP
(RIGHT, IN A SANDRO
SWEATER AND PANTS)
DREW ON PIECES
DESIGNED BY FRIENDS—
THE STAIRCASE, A WOODEN
TABLE—ENHANCED
BY ARTWORK FROM
GERMAN PHOTOGRAPHER
REINHARD GÖRNER.
KAS I A GAT KOWSK A . SI T TI NG S E D I TO R: SO N N Y G ROO. G RO OM I N G, FE DD E HO EKST RA FOR ELLES FAAS. ARTWOR K: R EINH AR D GÖR NER , BER LIN, R EINH AR D GOR NER . D E. D ETAILS, S E E IN T HIS ISSU E .
CANAL STREET
RIGHT: VAN DER
KEMP’S COLLECTION
OF ORNAMENTAL
BIRDS. LEFT: HIS
HOME OVERLOOKS
A HISTORIC
15TH-CENTURY
WATERWAY.
is something about being ethical that is very good. I want

to do something on my own terms.”
In other words, he is politically correct in his political incor-
rectness. This isn’t the latter-day equivalent of sackcloth and
ashes. Van der Kemp collaborates with local artisans—tailors,
theatrical costumers, even furniture makers—to conjure up
clothes loaded with beauty, whimsy, irony, glamour, playful-
ness, and a sense of being lifted out of the ordinary. “I want
to make pieces where you can see that someone has really
touched them,” he says. “I know when clothes aren’t made
with love.”
Currently on ofer are gleaming leather-and-python zip-
pered jackets, a ball skirt in a furnishing fabric that could
be Frans Hals–era but isn’t, and a loor-length V I E W >1 7 0
VOGUE.COM
New Amsterdam
button-front evening dress with sharp-

ly sculpted shoulders and a whip-thin
Strike
belted waist. If you’ve trawled In-
stagram recently, you’ll likely have
spotted girls in van der Kemp’s Jas-
per Johns–esque Stars and Stripes–
appliquéd tops or his jeans emblazoned
a Chord
with Old Glory and then accessorized
with an up-cycled fox-fur jacket. Even
if the fabrics are vintage, the look, the
attitude, isn’t.
So no lack of joy or fun, then, in all
of this—and for someone who says he As summer-festival season begins
never had a plan, his label has seemed to stir, designers across fashion’s
to be going according to, well, plan stage have suggested a downright
since its launch in January 2015. (Net- rocking way of accessorizing:
a-Porter has recently started to get the guitar-strap handbag.
It started in New York, where,
behind it in a big way as well.) What
for spring, Marc Jacobs sent
van der Kemp creates comes out of forth woven straps studded with
an instinct for the way things should bric-a-brac. Joseph Altuzarra has
be these days: not disposable, not them for fall, with whipstitched
seasonal, not ubiquitous. And he can edges and Axl Rose–esque
do it because his three-decade-long paisley-bandanna tie-ons.
résumé, which includes Bill Blass (Rose reunites with the
(“the American Saint Laurent”), original Guns n’ Roses
Guy Laroche, and Michael Kors–era lineup at Coachella
Céline, gives him not only technical later this month.)
expertise but the life experience of European
houses are holding
coming up through a system he be-
their lighters high
lieves needs changing. for the trend as well:
After nine years in New York, van Maria Grazia Chiuri
der Kemp moved permanently back to and Pierpaolo Piccioli at
the Netherlands in 2014, inding that Valentino propose a turquoise
his homeland’s relative slowness suited and metal–studded leash with
him perfectly—and when one consid- a ruglike woven treatment.
ers what informs his work, it’s hard not Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel
to draw parallels with Amsterdam’s collection has straps winking
incredible duality of noble history to Jack White’s famous White
combined with a blunt stance that re- Stripes–era Airline guitar.
lects no niceties. Even his apartment And at Tod’s, Alessandra
Facchinetti’s bags are
on the historic ifteenth-century Singel
perforated or adorned with
canal, with its three-plus-centuries-old antiqued-silver grommets.
exterior contrasted with a very twenty- “I was thinking about
irst-century living space, gives a pretty Florence Welch, actually,”
clear perspective on how the now and says Facchinetti. “She
the then can happily coexist. There captures different souls:
is a gleaming gold-trimmed staircase a little bit retro, romantic,
designed by gallerist Jasper Bode and and definitely rock-’n’-roll.”
furniture crafted by a friend, Bart The designs of Anthony
Gorter, who is responsible not only for Vaccarello, who debuts
the monumental wooden dining table handbags for spring, might
be the most electrifying of the
and bookshelves but also for weaving
bunch. Vaccarello admits to a love
D ETA I LS, S EE IN TH I S I SSU E .
fabrics for van der Kemp. The space of Janis Joplin’s “Summertime” (you
is dotted with his collection of orna- can almost visualize Joplin’s wail in the
mental birds, and he’s quick to point hardscrabble flourishes of one particularly
GO RM A N ST U D IO.
out, with a wry laugh, the subtext. ornate strap, which curls off in croc and ROCKS OFF
“They’re free to ly,” says the designer, calf tendrils). “I like the way of a woman FROM TOP: ANTHONY VACCARELLO
who refuses to be grounded by rules. when she’s wearing a guitar,” he says. CROCODILE-SKIN BAG; JUST ONE
EYE, L.A. ALTUZARRA BAG, $2,495;
—MARK HOLGATE V I E W >1 7 2 “She’s a true free spirit.”—NICK REMSEN BARNEYS NEW YORK, NYC.
FO R FA S H I O N N E W S A N D
F E AT U R E S , G O TO VO G U E . C O M
Fine
LINE
SHOW YOUR STRIPES IN LA LIGNE,
A NEW CHIC-ESSENTIALS LABEL.
h e n yo u a re
W tired of stripes,
you are tired of
life!” declares
Valerie Boster,
cofounder of the new fashion brand
La Ligne, paraphrasing Samuel John-
son. That august gentleman was talk-
ing about London, and Boster about
fabric, but the sentiment is the same:
Wonderful things are eternal.
Boster and her coconspirators,
Meredith Melling and Molly How-
ard, may have given a French name
to their direct-to-consumer fashion
company, but to my mind their proj-
ect is distinctly American: a line—a
ligne!—of clothing with nothing over
$550, everything made of the inest ma-
terials and with a ferocious attention to
detail, and all of it available only from
its own Web site or Net-a-Porter. The
inaugural 50-piece collection includes
an irresistible light suit; a phalanx of
work-to-weekend trousers, shirts, and
shirtdresses; even a basket embellished
with a wide white bar.
“You know those six pieces you have
in your closet that are pretty much the
only things you wear?” Boster says. “We
want to be one of those six things——”
Melling cuts her off: “We want to be
all six!”
Though she and Boster have
been obsessed with stripes for
years, La Ligne has a rather looser
interpretation—sometimes the stripes
are full-on, as in a faithful homage
to the French marinière (the pullover
beloved of Jean Genet and Jean Paul
MAT T HEW SP ROU T ( 3)
Gaultier); other times V I E W >1 74
WINNING STREAKS
FROM TOP: MODEL LILY ALDRIDGE IN A SHIRT
($195), DRESS ($500), AND SWEATER ($150)
FROM LA LIGNE; ALL AT LALIGNENYC.COM.

Keeping It Real
they turn up as subtle white lines encir-

cling the neckline of a perfect sweater
or dancing down the seam of a trouser.
In a world where more and more CRAFT
women want to buy what they see when
they see it, endeavors like La Ligne are
on the cutting edge of fashion’s future.
The site will show the clothes on profes-
sional beauties and other professionals,
Work
including Joan Smalls, Lily Aldridge,
and Dianna Agron, while sharing their
candid backstories (shoppers are invited
to share their stories, too—a resolutely
informal approach with an eye toward
building a community beyond mere
commerce). There are also practical ad-
vantages to running your business like
this: If, say, a particular pant is a big hit,
the company can keep making it in dif-
ferent colors and materials—as long as
people are still interested in a product,
well, then, so is La Ligne!
Boster and Melling were both Vogue
editors until they struck out on their own
IN A WORLD WHERE
SHOPPING IS CHANGING
EVERY DAY, LA LIGNE IS
ON THE CUTTING EDGE
OF FASHION’S FUTURE
DECORATIVE ARTS
two years ago with La Marque, a styling RIOTOUS COLOR COMBINES
WITH JOLLY INTARSIA TO
and fashion-consulting venture. (How- SAY, “WELCOME HOME.”
ard was an investment banker and an RIGHT: THE DESIGNER,
PHOTOGRAPHED BY COLIN
executive at Rag & Bone before joining DODGSON. VOGUE, 2015.
La Ligne as CFO.)
Despite the dream that all your The Spanish house of Loewe may be
clothes—every day!—will sport La Ligne built on exquisite leather craftsmanship,
labels, the three know that in truth you but it is creative director Jonathan
Anderson’s obsession with the
will pair these items with your own jeans,
Bloomsbury Group that has given his
your own leather jacket, your favorite
latest endeavor—a splashy seven-piece
Stan Smiths. And though they will be furniture project showcasing during ST I LL LI FES: COURTESY O F LOEW E . D E TA I LS, SE E I N T HI S I SSU E .
happy to share info on where to procure this month’s Salone del Mobile in
these iconic non–La Ligne items, they Milan—its particular verve. “There’s such a sense of realness to it,” says
are not fools. “You won’t be able to click Anderson, who hand-selected the antiques, now enlivened with bright
out of our site,” Boster says, laughing. leather marquetry landscapes and wildlife, and oversaw the design
Melling says that they are determined of other new pieces. “It’s made by real people, not machines.” Carp
to inject a bit of insouciance—“a cer- swim across wooden Japanese screens, and an imposing pine-green
tain irreverent human touch.” So, for wardrobe (an original from the storied British furniture shop Heal’s) is
example, traditional monograms are emblazoned with a collaged sixties scarf print from the Loewe archive.
slashed with a diagonal line to echo the “I wanted genuinely positive symbols—things that simply feel light and
pleasant,” Anderson says. Two M. H. Baillie Scott–style chairs are given Pop
way you’re friendly with your personal
Art presence with graphic stripes (Anderson has five of the original chairs
stationery. “Soullessness doesn’t do very in his East London house). And though these witty objets will undoubtedly
well these days,” Boster avers, summing find good homes, a vibrant capsule of notebooks and pouches will be
up La Ligne’s credo. Or, as another Brit- available in-store. “Craft is something engineered by silent hands,” says
ish author, E. M. Forster, put it: “Only Anderson, who is also launching a Loewe Foundation prize for craft this
connect.”—LYNN YAEGER month. “It’s about both newness and tradition.”—EMMA ELWICK-BATES

H I S TO RY O F
OVER THE COURSE OF THE LAST CENTURY, HAIR’S MOST MEMORABLE

MOMENTS HAVE HAD THEIR ROOTS IN VOGUE.
1 A MODEL WEARING A ROLLED COIF, PHOTOGRAPHED BY EDWARD STEICHEN, 1936. 2 RENE RUSSO,
PHOTOGRAPHED BY FRANCESCO SCAVULLO, 1975. 3 KARLIE KLOSS, PHOTOGRAPHED BY PATRICK DEMARCHELIER, 2014.
4 COCO ROCHA, PHOTOGRAPHED BY PATRICK DEMARCHELIER, 2009. 5 VERUSCHKA, PHOTOGRAPHED BY
FRANCO RUBARTELLI, 1968. 6 A MODEL IN A VELVET BOW, PHOTOGRAPHED BY KAREN RADKAI, 1957.
2
5
3
4
1
2
3
7 6
’20s
As social and political
change swept the nation, a
modern woman emerged
in the twenties. The Nine-
teenth Amendment inspired the embrace of
newfound freedoms, and liberated sufragettes
lopped of the long hair that deined their Vic-
torian sensibilities. With closely cropped Vogue
style stars like Coco Chanel and Louise Brooks
leading the charge, short styles like THE BOB
came into focus.
The Jazz Age gave way to the
’30s Great Depression, and MARCEL

WAVES relaxed into carefully
rolled curls as Americans sought to escape reality
through radio, swing music, and the silver screen.
Hairstyles remained sleek at the crown and
outwardly voluminous, making PIN CURLS
swept into tailored updos a coiing ixture. The
world would go to war at the end of the decade,
but Vogue encouraged continued dedication to
time-honored beauty rituals. “Women don’t
4 stop being women even in war-time,” declared
1 A MODEL IN PIN CURLS, PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOHN RAWLINGS, 1938. 2 PIXIE-
the Vogue’s-Eye View section in November 1939.
’40s
HAIRED MODELS, PHOTOGRAPHED BY ARTHUR ELGORT, 1993. 3 MURIEL With World War II chiely
MAXWELL, PHOTOGRAPHED BY HORST P. HORST, 1939. 4 MODELS IN COILED defining the early forties
UPDOS, PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOHN RAWLINGS, 1945. 5 DOUTZEN KROES,
PHOTOGRAPHED BY PATRICK DEMARCHELIER, 2013. 6 A MODEL IN AN and Rosie the Riveter
ASYMMETRICAL BOB, PHOTOGRAPHED BY BERT STERN, 1966. 7 MODELS
IN CANDY-COLORED WIGS, PHOTOGRAPHED BY BERT STERN, 1969. inspiring women to join
the workforce, hairstyles remained tailored but
5 utilitarian. VICTORY ROLLS ofered a practi-
cal solution to manicured manual labor. Come
1946, Vogue would declare that it was all about
“hair worn faceward,” adding an appealing de-
tail to shoulder-sweeping hair, which became the
length of the moment.
Enter the era of the ULTRAFEMI-
’50s NINE COIF. The rise of on-screen

starlets like Audrey Hepburn and
Elizabeth Taylor upped the attainable glamour
quotient, with DEFINED SETS inding their foil
in more youthful PONYTAILS—both of which
provided the perfect canvas for omnipresent
headgear. Vogue enforced hats and hair accesso-
ries as the must-have accoutrements of the day,
while updated styling products hit the market.
Social and politi-
’60s
cal change mani-
fested themselves
in the hairstyles of
the sixties. SLEEK
AND STRAIGHT
became the sought-after look for many, with
mod crops inspired by Twiggy and Barbra Strei-
sand gaining traction across the country. Wom-
en also began experimenting with exaggerated
height and volume for the irst time in decades,
as styles like the BEEHIVE and the backcombed
HAIR FLIP came into fashion. Amid the dawn
of the celebrity hairstylist, new techniques and
avant-garde shapes pushed the boundaries of
styling, depicted by Franco Rubartelli’s 1967 and
1968 images of Veruschka in the pages of Vogue.
VOGUE APRIL 2016

187
1
5
2
1 A MODEL WITH
FEATHERED HAIR,
PHOTOGRAPHED
BY GIANNI PENATI,
1971. 2 REDHEAD
KATE DILLON AND A
GAMINE JAIME RISHAR,
PHOTOGRAPHED BY
ARTHUR ELGORT, 1993.
3 KELLY EMBERG,
PHOTOGRAPHED BY
ARTHUR ELGORT, 1980.
4 SASHA PIVOVAROVA,
PHOTOGRAPHED
BY PATRICK
DEMARCHELIER, 2010.
5 KARLIE KLOSS,
PHOTOGRAPHED BY
DAVID SIMS, 2013.
4 3
The rebellious nature of the seventies inspired full silhouette, there was the PUNK PIXIE popularized by
’70s a new way of thinking. Women began let-
ting their hair down, quite literally. Cue the
musical muses like Madonna and Annie Lennox.
Linda Evangelista picked up the torch for
embrace of natural textures and center-parted, impossible
lengths—or FREE-MOVING HAIR, as Vogue called it in 1977,
when wispier SHAG styles also abounded. The era’s beauty
’90s the gender-bending TOMBOY CROP in
the nineties, when an obsession with an-
drogyny emerged alongside more unkempt grunge styles.
icons, like Jane Birkin, Lauren Hutton, and Farrah Fawcett, Linda wasn’t the only one-name wonder with inluence.
gave women license to pull back from high-maintenance, The decade belonged to the dream team made famous by
professionally coifed looks and embrace their unique hair Vogue: Cindy, Naomi, Claudia, Christy, and Kate, whose
qualities instead. Even the decade’s popular rock stars opted chameleon-like prowess reigned alongside cultural phe-
for hair with softness and simplicity. nomena like Jennifer Aniston. Named after her character
In the eighties, the brows were big and on Friends, Aniston’s layered look THE RACHEL was a hit
’80s the hair was bigger, fostering such

styles as FEATHERED BANGS and
NEW-WAVE PERMS. A fresh crop of
supermodels also introduced a new
generation to hair-hero worship. When Brooke Shields
at salons nationwide.
’00s
TV and film sirens continued to dictate
trends into the aughts as actresses like San-
dra Bullock, Sarah Jessica Parker, Gwyneth
Paltrow, and Reese Witherspoon won Vogue covers and
graced the cover of Vogue in 1980, her steely gaze set for- beauty obsessives’ hearts. Their collective preference for
ward from a barrage of HIGH-VOLUME HAIR inspired efortlessly undone yet perfectly polished strands inspired
endless imitation. And for women who disliked the decade’s the SLEEK BLOWOUT, which enjoyed decade-long favor.

1
5
Today, women are
3 New & more individualistic

than ever, and hair
has become a major
form of self-expres-
Next
sion. With social-
4
media stars driving
beauty trends, the
pages of Vogue are in-
creasingly illed with
PERSONALIZED
CUTS and NATURAL
TEXTURE, which ofer women a way to take ownership of their hair des-
tiny. There is also a growing focus on lexibility with length as women go
longer or shorter, quicker. What’s new is now in the hands of the people.
What’s now continues to be in Vogue.
1 IMAAN HAMMAM, PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANGELO PENNETTA, 2014. 2 GRACE

HARTZEL, PHOTOGRAPHED BY PATRICK DEMARCHELIER, 2015. 3 LINEISY MONTERO,
PHOTOGRAPHED BY PATRICK DEMARCHELIER, 2015. 4 MODELS WITH VARIED HAIR
COLORS, PHOTOGRAPHED BY PATRICK DEMARCHELIER, 2015. 5 MAARTJE VERHOEF
(LEFT) AND LUCKY BLUE SMITH, PHOTOGRAPHED BY PATRICK DEMARCHELIER, 2015.
VOGUE.COM
Beauty
EDITOR: CELIA ELLENBERG GLISTEN UP
CAMERON RUSSELL
IN A CALVIN KLEIN
COLLECTION DRESS AND
TIFFANY & CO. EARRINGS.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY
JASON KIBBLER. SITTINGS
EDITOR: EMILIE KAREH.
Flash
HA I R, JO RDA N M FOR BU MBL E A N D BUM B LE ; M A KEU P, PAT MCG RAT H. DE TA I LS, SEE IN TH IS ISSUE.
Drive
Pat McGrath,
the force
L
behind some ast May, Pat McGrath found herself in an
unusual predicament: She was running out
of fashion’s of gold. The supply of theatrical gold pig-
most directional ment she had sourced in bulk two decades
beauty looks, earlier during an international exploit as one
of the world’s most-wanted makeup artists
is charting was dwindling. “I started to panic,” she ad-
another course— mits, growing momentarily wistful about the precious fairy
off the runway dust that is one of her many calling cards. But a fortuitous
trip to a laboratory in an undisclosed location would ease her
and into your anxiety. “I’d never seen anything so beautiful ever in the his-
makeup bag. tory of making makeup,” McGrath says. The gilded discovery
would become Gold 001, the molten metallic liquid-powder
mixture heard round the Internet that she B E A U T Y >1 9 6

Beauty Makeup
teased on lips at Prada’s spring show before revealing it to London, she vividly remembers customizing products with
the public in a flash InstaMeet at the Tuileries in Paris in her mother, who had a hard time inding makeup shades that
September. Released in a quantity of 1,000 on her Web site worked well on black skin. “She would quiz me on diferent
a month later, Gold 001 was the beginning of a social-media eye shadows, standing in front of the television with three kids
phenomenon that would become Pat McGrath Labs. screaming at her, refusing to move until we told her what new
“To be able to do something like that, to make a product, product she was wearing,” says McGrath. These early experi-
put it out, and almost talk directly to the public is really excit- ences trained her to think outside the beauty box, and it is this
ing,” McGrath says, turning the conversation toward inclination toward invention that irst brought her to the
Phantom 002, another limited run of highly satu- attention of the rule-breaking British magazines
rated, handmade jewel-tone pigments, which of the eighties and nineties (The Face, Blitz, and
was similarly shrouded in mystery when it i-D) and that eventually earned her worldwide
launched in December—and gone almost as name recognition.
soon as it arrived. (The four-color Phantom Those who know McGrath’s work well
002 kit is currently fetching close to $350 know that fresh, dewy skin is as much her
on eBay.) It’s all part of an unconventional signature as Swarovski crystal–encrusted
launch strategy for “Labs”—as she calls lipstick or feather-fringed eyelashes. She
her irst-ever solo venture following more calls this incandescent complexion quality
than three decades in the industry—which Aliengelic: an otherworldly, ethereal look you
is not dependent on seasonal calendars. In- can achieve only by layering highlighters, rath-
stead, McGrath relies on Instagram teaser vid- er than relying on one, “strobing”-friendly light
eos, #swatchporn product demos, relector. Start with the creamy il-
and fan art to “see if people will luminating end of the dual-ended
be as obsessed with a product” as stick in her new Skin Fetish 003
she is. And they have been. “When kit, she instructs; then blend with
I’ve created something that I know the nutrient-rich balm on the other
people can get excited about and side, using your ingers. “The real
really want,” she says, “that is the secret is the system,” she says. The
right time to put it out.” components of the kit can be used
The opportunity to act on together or alone. It also includes
that foresight is a recent develop- a Buffer brush and a gel-hybrid
ment. “Before, whenever anybody pigment, available in two shades—
spoke to me about doing my own Iridescent Pink 003 (a prismatic
beauty line, it had to be this way, ivory) and Fine Gold 003 (a pale
and you had to start in this store, champagne)—that, when swept
and then you had to wait so many on top of cheekbones, along
years, and then you would slowly clavicles, or onto eyes, imparts a
roll out to here. It just felt . . . pre- high-impact shine. “It’s a fun new
dictable,” says McGrath, who has way to show women—and men—
been global creative design direc- how to use shimmer.”
tor of P&G Beauty since 2004 With her sights set on a full-
(in addition to innumerable stints brand launch in 2017, McGrath is
developing successful color col- not just making products. For the
lections for brands like Giorgio irst time in her storied career, she’s
Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, and engaged in a dialogue with the cus-
Gucci). She began to see a difer- tomers who have long sought to
ent path with the proliferation of emulate her techniques. The re-
platforms like YouTube and Insta- lationship is mutually beneficial.
gram, which have been fanning the “The feedback I am hearing is
lames of our collective fascination really rewarding,” says McGrath,
with makeup and its creative application. “There’s a whole who sees beauty through “movement and life and energy,”
new world out there now,” she says. “No one wants predict- rather than something more one-dimensional. And if this new
able”—least of all major retailers, who are as smitten with discourse inspires professionals and amateurs to interpret her
Labs as McGrath’s legions of followers. Next month, she will madcap pigments in their own unique ways? “That,” she says,
ST I LL LI FES: LUCAS V I SSE R
launch her irst to-scale product at Sephora and on her Web “inspires me.”—CELIA ELLENBERG B E A U T Y >1 9 8
site, releasing 25,000 kits of a three-part highlighting system
called Skin Fetish 003 after test-running it at the fall shows. VISUAL EFFECTS
FROM TOP: THE SKIN FETISH 003 KIT BY PAT MCGRATH LABS
The backstage guru—who is rarely out of her all-black SHIMMER PIGMENT IN IRIDESCENT PINK 003, AND SHINY STICK
uniform, accessorized with a thick black headband—is a HIGHLIGHTER + BALM DUO IN GOLDEN. A LUMINOUS GEMMA
WARD, COURTESY OF MCGRATH’S DEFT HAND. PHOTOGRAPHED BY
born innovator. Raised in Northampton, a few hours outside STEVEN MEISEL, VOGUE, 2006.

Beauty Fragrance
TEA TIME
Jo Malone London’s deliciously refined new fragrance line is steeped in traditions of sensual sipping.
A
steady rain falls outside the shoji-paper slid- heritage–inspired eaux, the idea isn’t too much of a depar-
ing doors of a dimly lit room on the outskirts ture: “Tea is so English,” says Roux, who has, in the past,
of Kyoto. The afternoon’s kimono-clad host spun Anglicized strains of Assam and Earl Grey into per-
is kneeling on a tatami mat and demonstrat- fumes tinged with familiar essences of milk, lemon, or mint.
ing a series of precise movements passed Roux’s deepening appreciation for tea eventually led her
down for generations. In serene silence, she pours hot water down back alleys in China and up isolated village tracks
over a scoop of matcha powder and whisks the mixture in the Himalayas as she searched for hard-to-ind leaves.
into a froth. Then, readying her hishaku, Often hand-harvested once a year at pre-
a bamboo ladle, she ills a steaming cup cipitous elevations and carefully dried in
of a creamy, bitter beverage for me to sip the sun, they can fetch more money per
while I reflect on the tradition-soaked ounce than gold. To preserve the ephem-
simplicity of the experience. eral flavors of these rare varietals, they
The painstaking preparation of a Jap- are brewed in alcohol—yes, brewed—in G RA N T COR NE T T. P RO P ST YL IST, J OJO L I . ST I LL LI F E: LUCAS V I SSE R.
anese tea ceremony is enough to make an industry-first infusion process em-
your to-go cup of morning coffee feel ployed by perfumer Serge Majoullier,
Philistine. But it’s the elevated ingredi- rather than re-created with synthesized
ents at the heart of these ancient rites that accords. “There wouldn’t be as much
inspire the most enduring fascination. of an art in that,” says Majoullier, who
While all teas come from the same Ca- SOURCE MATERIAL complemented the individual elixirs with
mellia sinensis plant, I learn, not all of EACH SCENT IS INFUSED WITH A RARE harmonious secondary notes: jasmine,
TEA VARIETAL. FROM LEFT, MIDNIGHT
them warrant an hours-long ritual—let BLACK, JADE LEAF, AND SILVER NEEDLE. freesia, and apricot to bring out Darjeel-
alone their very own perfume line from Jo ing’s floral sweetness; sandalwood and
Malone London. The U.K.-based brand’s fragrance director, resinous leathers to highlight Golden Needle’s mellow spice.
Céline Roux, participated in a number of similar ceremo- The prolonged immersion also imparts a touch of color to
nies while workshopping Rare Teas, the company’s newest the range’s oversize clear-glass bottles, yielding watercolor
stand-alone collection of scents. Although the six variations hues in shades like peach, celadon, and tourmaline. If you
(based on Darjeeling, Silver Needle, sencha Jade Leaf green, can’t seem to settle on just one, the kaleidoscopic effect
Oolong, Midnight Black, and Golden Needle teas) have makes owning a full set an entirely enticing proposition.
been conceived of independently from the company’s British —CELIA ELLENBERG B E AU T Y>2 0 0
Beauty Health
RippleEffect
Kate Christensen takes the plunge with a radical new treatment for cellulite.
L
ast summer, while vacationing in the White backward glances for granted. At 53, I’ve long retired my
Mountains of New Hampshire, I emerged short, frothy skirts, even on the hottest days. In a boutique last
from the cool, pristine lake to stretch out summer, I was tempted by a Lisa Marie Fernandez one-piece
on the dock. As I lay back, dripping wet, on bathing suit with a zip front, cut daringly high on the thighs,
the sun-heated boards, I caught a glimpse of but reluctantly bought a less revealing one.
the slight ruling of the skin on my thighs Acceptance recently gave way to hope, however, when I
that, along with many other signs of aging, heard about a new technique called Cellina, FDA-approved
intensiied with every passing year. I glanced over at my sun- since 2014. The first of its kind, using a tiny blade to per-
bathing summer neighbor, a tanned and toned competitive manently sever the bands of connective tissue, it promised
athlete around my age. She rose from the dock, sleekly lean, to address the underlying cause of cellulite, not simply its
almost all muscle in her racing-back maillot. As she dove appearance. In a clinical study, 55 patients underwent a
into the water, I saw that she, too, single treatment. Two years later,
had orange-peel skin. I had been independent physician evaluators
watching her with detached envy, declared improvement in the ap-
but now I felt perversely relieved. pearance of cellulite in 98 percent
According to Jeremy Green, of those treated.
M.D., a Miami dermatologist, “It’s the first thing that’s
more than 90 percent of women worked,” says Daniel R. Foitl,
have cellulite. It’s caused by genet- M.D., a Manhattan dermatolo-
ics, hormones, and skin structure. gist. The downside, he adds, is that
“Cellulite can start any time after the procedure, which costs around
puberty,” Amy Wechsler, M.D., a $5,000, doesn’t remove any fat.
New York dermatologist, tells me. “I sometimes tell patients they
“I see it often in 20-year-olds.” need liposuction or CoolSculpt-
Cellulite is frequently mistaken for ing,” he says. Wechsler sounds
a lumpy, puckered expression of another note of caution: “Cell-
body fat. But the dimples are ac- ina is painful and causes swelling
tually caused by ibrous strands of and bruising,” she says. “It is not
connective tissue compressing the a ‘lunchtime’ treatment.”
subcutaneous layer of fat, which To learn more, I make an ap-
tends to concentrate in the thighs pointment with dermatologist
and buttocks of even the most Michael S. Kaminer, M.D., who
slender women. Green likens the was one of a team of three doc-
efect to a tufted sofa. A LEG UP tors who developed the proce-
THE PROCEDURE DOESN’T REMOVE
Since my own indentations irst FAT BUT INSTEAD DESTROYS THE CONNECTIVE dure; he regularly performs it at
surfaced, around fifteen years TISSUE THAT CAUSES PUCKERING. his Boston area practice.
ago, I’ve resigned myself to their In a well-lit consultation room,
permanence. Treatments such as caffeine creams, scrubs, Kaminer examines my skin. “You have between ten and 20
wraps, myofascial massages, and vitamin injections can pro- dimples per side,” he tells me, “and very few ripples. That makes
vide a temporary improvement in appearance, but none of you a perfect candidate.” I smile, oddly pleased; I’ve never imag-
them confers any long-term solution. Losing weight reduces ined I’d ind myself happy to have the “right” kind of cellulite.
the fat but, alas, not the dimples, which are caused by the As Kaminer explains, “With a lot of dimples, over 50 per side
BI LL BRA N DT © BI LL BRA N DT A RCHI V E
ishnet-stocking-like structure of the connective tissue itself. maybe, there is a point beyond which it really just isn’t worth
Staying in shape doesn’t prevent or banish cellulite; my condi- it. It doesn’t fix skin laxity. And it doesn’t work on longer
tion had persisted, despite my twice-weekly Pilates practice horizontal lines, only shorter ripples and discrete dimples.”
and conscientiously nutritious diet. Cellina originated as a less-invasive iteration of a com-
Every spring, I admire the gazelles I see stepping out of mon treatment for pitted acne scars. Kaminer describes its
taxis in their abbreviated skirts and dresses, their skin “as elegant simplicity: On numbed skin, an iPhone-size suction
luminous as the inest of seashells,” in the words of the great cup lifts and stretches each dimple, and then a tiny blade per-
sensualist Anaïs Nin. I recall with nostalgic appreciation forms a subcision to release the connective bands. The bands
the days I’d stride the city streets in summertime, taking fall apart, and the skin floats up again, B E AU T Y>2 0 6
200 VOGUE APRIL 2016 FO R B E AU T Y N E W S A N D

F E AT U R E S , G O TO VO G U E . C O M
Beauty Health
smooth. “Within a month, you’ll look better. In six months, and Kaminer warns me, “The noise might be the worst part
you’ll really see it, and after a year, you should be very, very of this whole thing.”
happy,” the doctor tells me. Best of all, I would likely have to The machine did indeed whine and gurgle as Kaminer
do it only once. “Most women seem to have all the dimples began placing the suction cup over my dimples, one by one,
they are going to get by their mid-40s,” Kaminer says. Al- and releasing the villainous ibers. I am no fan of needles,
though the technology is still too young for claims that the yet I felt nothing but anticipatory happiness. I wouldn’t
results are permanent, dimple-causing bands feel sore until two days later. Back at home,
do not grow back once they are destroyed. I am no fan I followed Kaminer’s instructions and wore
After my initial appointment, I call one of Spanx, took showers instead of baths, and
Kaminer’s former patients, Paola Pacella, a
of needles, yet didn’t engage in any strenuous exercise for
46-year-old personal trainer who had Cellina I felt nothing but four days. As the doctor had promised, there
performed ive years ago as part of the clini- anticipatory were plum-colored bruises, but they faded
cal trial that resulted in the FDA clearance.
“No matter how lean I got, even down to 13 happiness at the as fast as the pinpricks healed. By day ive, I
felt nothing.
percent body fat,” she tells me, “I still had doctor’s office A week after the procedure came the unveil-
cellulite.” She tried topical lotions, scrubs, ing: I stood in daylight in front of my boyfriend
professional wraps. Nothing worked. And then she heard after a shower. He pronounced my derriere beautiful, smooth.
about the new treatment. “Five years out, my cellulite is In the days that followed, I found myself running my hand
still gone,” she says. over my newly released lesh, which felt satiny and taut, as if
Two weeks later, I lie facedown on a table in the surgery it had been lat-ironed.
room while Kaminer’s team of technicians—four funny, In a few months, it will be time to put on a bathing suit
chatty women—sticks me a few times per side with anes- again. I look forward to buying a new one, with a zip front,
thetic needles. Within ten minutes, I am completely numb, cut high on the thighs.
Trend Force of NATURE

San Francisco’s Credo boutique is changing perceptions—and
complexions—with its clean-beauty concept.
S
hashi Batra was an early apostle for natural beauty. As part of
the landmark team that imported Sephora to the U.S. in the late
nineties, he wanted to push organic moisturizers and serums
into the mainstream—a challenging task at the time. “No one was
coming in looking for that,” he confesses. Flash forward 20 years,
and the demand for natural products has ballooned: A study
published in 2015 estimates sales at $33 billion. Encouraged, Batra began
preaching the green gospel again. Last winter, he launched Credo (Latin for
“I believe”), an e-commerce site devoted entirely to so-called clean
FLOW ERS: G LOW I MAG ES/ © G ET T Y I MAG ES. M A KEUP : A LE X CAO/ © G ET T Y I M AG ES.
personal-care brands. When he opened a brick-and-mortar store in San
Francisco a few months later, people paid attention. “It’s genius,” says
eco-chic trailblazer Tata Harper, who installed her first mini-spa in the
Fillmore Street flagship. Located on a veritable beauty row where Aesop,
MAC, Kiehl’s, Le Labo, and Benefit all have outposts, Credo stands out
as much for its teal facade as for its revolutionary retail experience: Each
staff member is both a licensed aesthetician and a makeup artist, trained
to speak intelligently on a curated inventory of more than 100 brands.
Online, customers can peruse an extensive “dirty list”—toxic ingredients
to ditch—and use a clean-swap tool that compiles conventional mainstays
and proposes green alternatives, like EVOLVh hair care, designed to
mimic a high-performing salon line, and Suntegrity’s SPF products, which
dispel the notion that natural sunscreen can’t be effective. Harder-to-
find organic cosmetics lines with real pigment payoff, like makeup artist
Rose-Marie Swift’s popular RMS Beauty (Miranda Kerr is a fan), have,
according to Batra, made color a fast-growing category. If Credo has
earned the lofty description of being “the Sephora for natural beauty,”
Batra is quick to play down the comparison. “We are not trying to be a
PETAL POWER supermarket,” he says of his niche intentions. But with a steady influx
AS GREEN BEAUTY BOOMS, CREDO
IS GIVING NATURAL BRANDS A
of new products and a Nolita franchise set to open in New York in May,
BROADER PLATFORM TO THRIVE. the ayahuasca hair oil–loving mind does wander.—FIORELLA VALDESOLO
VOGUE.COM
people are talking about EDITOR: VALERIE STEIKER
i
f you are in the market for
revelatory—and pulse-
quickening—productions
of plays that you thought
you knew all too well,
then the Belgian director
Ivo van Hove is your man.
On the heels of his devastating
staging of Arthur Miller’s A View
from the Bridge, van Hove returns
to Broadway this month with his
take on The Crucible, Miller’s
thinly veiled allegory about the
1950s Communist witch hunts,
set against the actual 1690s Salem
witch hunts, featuring music by
Philip Glass and an A-plus cast
led by Ben Whishaw and, mak-
ing her professional stage debut,
Saoirse Ronan.
After an early Crucible re-
hearsal, I catch up with Whishaw
and Ronan. Perhaps best known
for his role in the BBC’s ifties-set
newsroom show The Hour, the
35-year-old British actor had an
action-packed fall, with roles in
Spectre, The Danish Girl, and
ME L BLES. S I TT I N G S ED I TO R: SON N Y GRO O. HA I R, T EI JI U TSU MI ; M A KEU P, FLO RR IE WH ITE. D ETAILS, SEE IN TH IS ISSUE.
the television series London Spy.

But like a lot of British actors of
his generation, Whishaw got his
start on the stage, with a breakout
performance as Hamlet in Trevor
Nunn’s 2004 production at the
Old Vic, and most recently ap-
peared in the West End’s Peter and
Alice, opposite Dame Judi Dench.
As it happens, he irst took on the
role of the lawed but morally cou-
rageous John Proctor in a school
production when he was ifteen.
“It’s a play that schoolchildren un-
derstand, somehow, because it’s DOWN THE theater
GARDEN PATH
To tell the
about a microcosm, isn’t it?” says WHISHAW IN
Whishaw, sporting a ploughman’s A GUCCI COAT
AND RONAN
beard for the role. “And people IN A CAROLINA
ganging up and bullying and hys- HERRERA DRESS.
teria.” Although he went against

physical type in casting the slight Whishaw—Broadway’s
last John Proctor was Liam Neeson—van Hove was more
interested in the actor’s ability to bring many dimensions to
the character: “You feel that there’s a secret world in his mind,
in his body, and you never know where he will go.”
TRUTH
Ben Whishaw and Saoirse Ronan play
As Abigail Williams, a vindictive seventeen-year-old who
destroys lives with her false accusations, Ronan is revisiting
foes and former lovers in Ivo van Hove’s
territory she explored in her Oscar-nominated PATA > 2 1 0 Broadway revival of The Crucible.
209
people are talking about
FINE LINES
WESSELMANN’S SUNSET NUDE
WITH BIG PALM TREE, 2004.
theater
C O N T I N U E D F R O M PA G E 2 0 9
breakthrough in Atonement as Bri-
ony, a vindictive thirteen-year-old
who destroys lives with her false ac-
cusations. Coming of her nuanced
(and also Oscar-nominated) por-
trayal of an Irish immigrant torn
between two suitors in Brooklyn,
the 21-year-old Ronan is looking
forward to “the commitment and
the stamina” required by the stage.
When we irst meet Abigail, it’s been
seven months since she was thrown
out of Proctor’s house, where she
had been a servant, because his wife,
Elizabeth (Sophie Okonedo), discov-
ered that they’d been having an af-
art
fair. “He’d taught her everything she

knows about the world, made her
feel for the irst time important for
who she was,” Ronan says. “And I
think she wants to feel powerful and
Body Tom Wesselmann loved Matisse most of all, but, determined
to go his own way, created splashy, adlike takes on traditional
subjects that made him a reluctant star of the Pop Art
needed the way she did with him.”
Adultery, sorcery, mob hysteria: OF movement. Yet while Warhol and Lichtenstein have had their
due, an upcoming survey of Wesselmann’s paintings at Mitchell-
A RT: TOM W ESSE LMA NN . SUNS ET NU DE W I TH B I G PA L M TR EE, 200 4. OI L O N CA N VAS, 10 5” X 128”. © ESTATE OF TOM WESSELMANN/VAGA, NEW YOR K,
Innes & Nash will be the first of its kind in New York since the
van Hove, who has a gift for making
plays feel both timeless and uncanni-
ly of the moment, believes that audi-
Work artist’s death in 2004. “The hope is to reintroduce his work to
a new generation,” says Lucy Mitchell-Innes—and, she adds,
to pave the way for a major museum retrospective. The show focuses on
ences will ind all kinds of ways into
large-scale, mixed-media still lifes and figure paintings from the 1960s on,
COURT ESY O F MI TC HE LL-I NN ES & N AS H, N EW YO RK. M OV I ES: VA N RE D I N/ © 20 15 PARAMOUNT PICTUR ES. ALL R IGH TS R ESERVED.
Miller’s material: “I think this play including two from the Cincinnati-born artist’s famous Great American
perhaps works even better now that it Nude series. Wesselmann often incorporated postcards and magazine
can be liberated from the McCarthy pages in his work, as well as functional objects—a phone that really rang,
era—it speaks more about ourselves a clock that really ticked. Eventually he’d make his “paintings” more fully
these days than perhaps we’d like to 3-D with molded plastic and laser-cut metal. No matter the medium, he
admit.”—ADAM GREEN maintained a keen interest in color, and in the female form.—KATE GUADAGNINO
movies GAMES PEOPLE PLAY

TEAM NEWBIE (BLAKE
JENNER) GETS THE
GIRL (ZOEY DEUTCH).
a good-humored portrait of college life in eighties Texas, Rich-
ard Linklater’s Everybody Wants Some stars Blake Jenner
(Glee) as Jake, a freshman baseball pitcher who must carve
out his place among his teammates—a freewheeling crew that includes
a garrulous lady-killer (witty Glenn Powell) and a philosophical stoner
(Kate Hudson’s half-brother Wyatt Russell)—while pursuing a spunky
theater major (Zoey Deutch). As festive and breezy as Boyhood was
low-key and deep, the movie shows of Linklater’s sharp eye for the
rituals that deine young manhood—the cocky banter, the silliness
around women, and especially the peacocking; whether heading to
the disco, the country bar, or the campus theater party, Jake and his
buddies dress to strut their stuf.
Business suits encounter sheiks’ robes in Tom Tykwer’s upbeat adap-
tation of A Hologram for the King, Dave Eggers’s dreamlike novel about
the end of the American Era. In a nifty piece of casting, Tom Hanks
plays Alan Clay, a divorced Boston businessman who, to save his career,
goes to Saudi Arabia to sell the king some expensive IT. But when his
majesty proves as hard to meet as Godot, Clay ends up killing time with
zany drivers, slippery princes, and two attractive women (Homeland’s
The BEAT goes ON Sarita Choudhury and Borgen’s Sidse Babett Knudsen) who help this
confused American get his groove back.—JOHN POWERS PATA > 2 1 2

people are talking about BY THE BOOK
JOURNALS AVAILABLE AT
ADRIENNEWONG.COM.
School of ROCK
up next
Director John Carney (Once) discovered the

power of music somewhere in the early eighties.
His new film, Sing Street, which he calls “a
fantastical version of my teenage years,” is set
in his hometown of Dublin, at a moment when
the Irish economy was sliding and music videos
were on the rise. Sixteen-year-old newcomer
Ferdia Walsh-Peelo stars as Conor, who starts
a band to impress an aspiring model with the
mesmerizing name Raphina (Lucy Boynton).
The makeshift group, called Sing Street after its
members’ parochial school, becomes a paragon
of New Romanticism, replete with Flock of
Seagulls hair, guyliner, and chintzy music videos.
Walsh-Peelo was cast for his proficiency on
the guitar but felt a connection to more than
the music. “My granddad, my father, and my
uncles all went to Synge Street school [the film’s
namesake and shoot location], and it’s hardly
changed—the hallways, the uniforms,” he says.
Born in 1999, he was less familiar with the musical
era, and so he immersed himself. “I’d never
come across that stuff before, but I’m a whiz
now,” he says. Walsh-Peelo particularly got into
Hall & Oates and now describes M’s song “Pop
Muzik” as “seminal.” And while Walsh-Peelo is
already auditioning for new roles—Sing Street
premiered at Sundance and will be released by
Weinstein this month—Carney might be pleased
to know that the film’s actors still regularly get
together in Dublin to jam.—MARK GUIDUCCI
D ESI G N : LUCAS V I SS ER. D E TA I LS, SE E I N T HI S I SSU E.

UP N E XT: COU RTESY O F T HE W EI N ST E I N CO M PA N Y.
design
NOTEWORTHY
Step into spring with Adrienne Wong’s whimsical
KISS ON
MY LIST hand-bound journals in seasonal shades of rose,
THE ACTOR daffodil, and aqua. The New York–based Wong
PLAYS A
SINGER WHO was a graphic designer before getting into decor
WOOS LUCY and stylishly updating the notebook—with cover
BOYNTON’S illustrations of soft graphics and organic shapes that
CHARACTER.
play off traditional gilded edges.—SAMANTHA REES

DEEP WATERS
HIDDLESTON’S
JONATHAN PINE
FINDS ELIZABETH
DEBICKI’S JED
HARD TO READ.
television
DO orDIE
A thrilling adaptation of The Night Manager
has Tom Hiddleston as an unlikely spy.
t elling a lie is one thing, living it

another. Just ask the hero of
The Night Manager, AMC’s
sensationally good six-part
thriller based on the best
seller by John le Carré. Tom
Hiddleston stars as Jonathan
Pine, an honorable, romantic-souled
ex-soldier who works as the night
manager at a luxury hotel in Cairo. But
when someone is murdered there,
he’s recruited by an intelligence agent
security man, Corcoran (a delectably
poisonous Tom Hollander), you
keep wondering when Pine will give
himself away.
The closest le Carré ever came
to a James Bond thriller, The Night
Manager is the best adaptation of his
work in either movies or TV since the
BBC did Smiley’s People in the early
1980s. Working from a taut script
by playwright David Farr, Danish
director Susanne Bier knows that the
There’s no question of ever trusting
Roper, who’s as ruthless as he is
connected. He’s played with chilling
malevolence by Laurie, whose
modulated performance forever
answers the question “How would Dr.
House have behaved if he’d been pure
evil?” Of course, this being le Carré, a
writer not afraid of unhappy endings, we
can’t be sure that the heroic Pine has
what it takes to stop the entitled Roper.
But we do know that this is an almost-
perfect role for Hiddleston, whose aura
(Olivia Colman, excellent as ever) to key to making such a glamorously
infiltrate the inner circle of “the worst implausible tale suspenseful is of likable, good-humored decency
man in the world”—Richard Onslow getting us to believe in its characters. nearly always masks something darker.
Roper (Hugh Laurie), a billionaire Even as she sleekly rockets us from (That same quality comes in handy
arms dealer with disturbingly close Egyptian streets to posh alpine in his winning performance as the
ties to the British government. lodges, she anchors the film in vivid brilliant and self-destructive Hank
If that isn’t tricky enough, Pine starts work from all her actors, be it the Williams in I Saw the Light, a biopic of
developing feelings for Roper’s lanky Debicki as Jed, whose carefully the country singer opening late March.)
MI TCH JE N KI NS/A MC
mistress, Jed (The Great Gatsby’s concealed sense of entrapment This superb actor has never felt more
Elizabeth Debicki), who, like virtually evokes a Hitchcock heroine, or like a star than he does as Pine, a
all le Carré heroines, is in dire need Homeland’s David Harewood as a man who discovers that to take down
of rescue. Given that his every move CIA operative who seems almost too a monster you have to unleash the
is monitored by Roper’s paranoid straightforward to be trustworthy. monster in yourself.—J.P. PATA > 2 1 4

213
people are talking about In northern Guatemala, where
a lush rain forest gives way to
the clear waters of Lake Petén
Itzá, you’ll find the rustic-chic La
Lancha. Part of the Francis Ford
travel Coppola portfolio, the resort has
just undergone a renovation that
The Lake HOUSE expanded the dock and doubled

the size of the suites, newly
outfitted with white mahogany
antiques and brightly colored
woven textiles. Guests can climb
the nearby Mayan ruins of Tikal,
then return for a swim or a meal
of fresh bay snook fish at the
open-air restaurant. “I find it’s
one of my favorite properties. I
love the simplicity,” says Coppola,
“and the howler monkeys.”
thefamilycoppolaresorts.com.—K.G.
FRESH PERSPECTIVE
LA LANCHA OFFERS SWIMMING,
CANOEING, AND TUBING.
BRIGHT
books
LOAVES AND
FISHES
MAIRA KALMAN’S
Young Things PAINTINGS

HANG IN UNION
SQUARE CAFE’S
WINDOWS DURING
Spring novels feature lost RENOVATION.
girls in the big city.
S
he knew if she waited long enough it
would happen. The big bang, the cos-
mic crash, the delightful disturbance
that would determine her true city fate,”
thinks Lucy, the Idaho naïf turned art-world
muse in Tuesday Nights in 1980 (Scout), Molly
Prentiss’s love letter to a vanished New York.
Innocence can be a kind of currency, one easily
stolen, or so inds the young Midwestern wait-
ress in Stephanie Danler’s memoir-like Sweet-
bitter (Knopf), whose tutelage by a jaded older
couple gives way to Dangerous Liaisons–style
lessons in oysters and betrayal. Don’t quit your
day job: That’s the takeaway of Lisa Owens’s scene
TRAV E L: JOSÉ ROD RI GU ES/ © GE T TY IM AG ES. SCE N E: MA I RA KA LM A N .
ruefully funny Not Working (Dial Press), featur-
ing a Generation Y Bridget Jones, whose red
wine–and–TED talk–fueled pursuit of a higher Second SERVINGS
W
purpose in life leads to hard truths and hang- hen a rent hike forced Union Square Cafe to shutter, New
overs. A trip to Sri Lanka provides no easy re- Yorkers heaved a collective sigh of dismay. But then came the
demption for the wayward heroine of Hannah good news that the New American favorite would rise again
Tennant-Moore’s Wreck and Order (Hogarth), nearby. The David Rockwell–designed space will be roomier, with double-
who speaks to 20-something motivations— height ceilings and an upstairs bar, while retaining a bustling feel. The dish-
“lust, rage, lust, rage”—with bracing honesty. es, too, should be a mix of old and new, with some surprises. “I don’t play
But perhaps the most unrepentant of all is the favorites with the menu, but Chef Quagliata has a pretty magical way with
social-climbing auction-house assistant in L. S. pasta,” says Danny Meyer. Farther north, Daniel Humm and Will Guida-
Hilton’s jubilantly mordant Maestra (Putnam). ra are at work remaking their high-end seasonal fare for the fast-casual
Already optioned for the big screen by Amy trend: Made Nice will ofer classic pairings (chicken and lemon; salmon
Pascal, it’s the story of a twenty-irst-century and dill) at a price point ideally suited for grabbing a quick bite. “It will be
femme fatale as lethal as Tom Ripley and as to NoMad as NoMad is to Eleven Madison Park,” says Guidara—“faster,
seductive as Bacall.—MEGAN O’GRADY less expensive, but just as delicious and just as gracious.”—LILI GÖKSENIN

April 2016
T O M O R R O W L A N D
How will the future family live and dress? Our prognostications include
android au pairs, salads from airborne pods, virtual-reality vacations on
demand—and plenty of clean-lined, cool, and ultracomfortable day chic.
Photographed by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott.
EX MACHINA
“Unfussy” isn’t a new ideal, but it has great currency. We all want to be, finally, liberated from physically constricting clothes—and
sartorial foolishness. That’s why a loose top and lounge-y, laid-back pants are the shape of things to come. Model Joan Smalls wears a Vetements
shirtdress, $1,180; matchesfashion.com. Boss pants, $375; select Hugo Boss stores. Honda humanoid robot. Details, see In This Issue.
Fashion Editor: Tonne Goodman.
GAME CHANGER
Robot for the win!
(And, on Mom,
minimalism’s winningest
color combination.)
Ralph Lauren Collection
silk-jersey cropped
sweater, $890; select
Ralph Lauren stores.
Calvin Klein Collection
pants, $950; Calvin
Klein Collection, NYC.
Cartier watch. On
Abraham: Vineyard
Vines shirt. Bonpoint
shorts. On Ava: Oscar
de la Renta dress.
On actor Nikolaj Coster-
Waldau: ATM Anthony
Thomas Melillo
T-shirt. Linde Werdelin
watch. Details, see
In This Issue.
ETERNAL SUNSHINE
A new era calls for a new kind of cover-up—like a matching jacket, say,
instead of a pareo or kurta. Dolce & Gabbana jacket ($2,745) and swimsuit
($575); select Dolce & Gabbana boutiques. On Ava: Lands’ End jumper,
shirt, and shoes. On Coster-Waldau: Solid & Striped swim trunks.
GOOD SHAPE
The interesting
silhouettes we’re
seeing are essentially
geometric—witness
this creative spin on
the old high-low with
an apron skirt–over–
trousers combination.
Marni top ($770)
and skirt ($1,500).
Top at select Neiman
Marcus stores. Skirt
at Marni boutiques.
Jil Sander trousers,
$870; Jil Sander,
NYC. Bulgari ring.
Fendi sandals. Details,
see In This Issue.
MOTHERBOARD
Most of the prints here are
feminine but abstract, only
hinting at florals or other
organic forms. These squiggles
could remind you of coral—
or maybe wiring and circuitry
configurations. J.W.Anderson
top, $1,095; j-w-anderson
.com. Annelise Michelson
earrings. Asobu Glass Water
Bottle with Fruit Iceball Maker.
Details, see In This Issue.
223
224
VIRTUALLY
DISTINGUISHABLE
Do we dress for a
big night when we’re
traveling to the
fabulous fete via VR
headsets? Yes, we
do—this isn’t Y2K
gaming in sweats
on the couch; it’s
society networking
via immersive tech.
Proenza Schouler
top, $890; Proenza
Schouler, NYC.
Delpozo skirt, $1,750;
bergdorfgoodman
.com. Alyssa Norton
cuff. Michael Kors
Collection belt. On
Coster-Waldau:
Brooks Brothers
polo shirt. Burberry
trousers. PlayStation
VR. Double Robotics
Double 2 Telepresence
Robot. Details,
see In This Issue.
NEW TRICKS
Robotic dogs: They’re
cute, friendly—and
they don’t shed on your
pristine Space Age
digs. Sailor pants are
also cute and friendly;
pair them with an
extra-lanky sweater
and you’ve created a
newsy A-line silhouette.
Sportmax sweater,
$695; Sportmax,
NYC. J.Crew pants,
$138; jcrew.com.
WowWee CHiP robot
dog and MiPosaur
robot dinosaur.
226
ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
Loungewear—or post-postmodern formalwear? Either way, we’re loving the look of
outlines and contrast piping. J.W.Anderson shirt ($745) and pants ($695); Maryam
Nassir Zadeh, NYC. Sophie Buhai ring. On Coster-Waldau: Rag & Bone jeans. Boskke
Sky Planters. Samsung Family Hub refrigerator. Details, see In This Issue.
FUTURE PERFECT
A new utopia: the relaxation of
pajama dressing—with all the
panache of McQueen. McQ
Alexander McQueen jacket
($995), shirt ($485), and
trousers ($550); mcq.com.
Jennifer Fisher choker. Hermès
bag. Stella McCartney shoes. On
Abraham: Lands’ End shirt and
pants. On Coster-Waldau: J.Crew
sweater. ATM Anthony Thomas
Melillo T-shirt. Faraday Future
FFZER01 concept car. Ehang 184
Autonomous Aerial Vehicle. In
this story: hair, Garren at Garren
New York for R+Co.; makeup,
Mark Carrasquillo. Menswear
Editor: Michael Philouze. Set
design, Bette Adams for Mary
Howard Studio. Architect,
Mike Rostami for Unicon
Builders, Inc. Photographed at
a Mulholland Realty property.
Wo r k i n g
Rihanna has revealed a new sound, launched
an agency, designed a debut fashion line, and is
embarking on a 63-city world tour. Can global
domination be far behind? ByAbbyAguirre.
Photographed by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott.
t’s Super Bowl Sunday, and I am in the large
I
Mediterranean home of Real Housewife Carlton
Gebbia in Beverly Hills, the setting for Rihanna’s
Vogue shoot. The 28-year-old singer appears in
the doorway, fresh off a plane from Toronto,
where the night before she and Drake wrapped
the video for their hit single “Work.” She is wear-
ing a vintage Guess leather biker jacket, a gray
Star Wars T-shirt, and green Vetements sweat-
pants, her sleek black hair chopped into a blunt nineties
bob. Even such a Netlix-and-chill look cannot conceal the
singular proportions of her body. She hugs me hello and then
loats upstairs, where hair and makeup stylists await.
I settle into a chair outside and pass the time by—what
else?—checking my phone. Thanks to the demands of the
24-hour news cycle, every Instagram post by a pop star has
become a source of intrigue, every teased video clip fodder
for frenzied speculation. On this particular afternoon, the
RiRi chatter, robust on any day, is reaching peak hysteria.
Ten days earlier, Rihanna dropped Anti, her irst album
since 2012. For seven years, she had released a new pop
confection every year, like clockwork. Then, suddenly, noth-
ing. It wasn’t just the timing. Anti immediately announced
itself as something diferent. A deiant, idiosyncratic mix
of dance hall, doo-wop, and soul, it did not deliver her
A LEAGUE OF HER OWN

“I can only do me,” the singer says. Ralph Lauren Collection dress.
Anita Ko ear cuffs. Details, see In This Issue.
Fashion Editor: Tonne Goodman.
UNAPOLOGETIC
Her friend Cara
Delevingne describes
Rihanna’s mode as
“go with your instinct
and go with your
gut.” Givenchy Haute
Couture by Riccardo
Tisci dress. Details,
see In This Issue.
usual instantly gratifying, reliable pop formula. Stoking the year to just do whatever I want artistically, creatively,” she
ire were rumors that Anti was leaked through Tidal, the says. “I lasted a week.” The paparazzi got a picture of her
streaming service run by Jay Z and co-owned by Rihanna. going into the studio, “and my fans were like, ‘Oh, yes! We’s
Next were the reports of impossibly low sales igures. Then, droppin’ a single.’ ” From that moment, she says, the Navy
the day before, out of nowhere, came the surprise release of was expecting an album. It would be another two years.
Beyoncé’s pointedly political video for “Formation.” The Turns out it takes a while to reinvent your sound. As
Internet is ablaze: Did Bey just try to steal RiRi’s thunder? Delevingne says, “Anti’s got its own genre, and that genre
And, most breathlessly: Is Rihanna going to make a surprise is her.” Had Rihanna gotten bored with the pop formula?
appearance at the Super Bowl?! “Very much,” the singer says. “I just gravitated toward the
Rihanna, meanwhile, is reclining on a chaise on a veranda songs that were honest to where I’m at right now.” From the
in the sun, taking pulls from a joint and sending wisps of irst song, “Consideration,” a trip-hop collaboration with
smoke into the cloudless California sky. She’s listening to a SZA, the message is clear. The chorus has Rihanna singing,
remix of Sia’s “Chandelier,” occasionally belting out a lyric “I got to do things my own way, darling.” It’s “like a PSA,”
in that inimitable Bajan tone: “I’m gonna live like tomorrow she tells me. She recognizes the risks: “It might not be some
doesn’t exist! Like it doesn’t exist!” automatic record that will be Top 40. But I felt like I earned
the right to do that now.”
e are living in a golden age of Avoiding the bravado and easy hooks of past hits, another
W
pop divas. Beyoncé, Taylor song, “Higher,” reveals a woman who’s been burned by love.
Swift, Adele: Rarely have Rihanna compares it to “a drunk voice mail.” She explains,
the top ranks been so ruled “You know he’s wrong, and then you get drunk and you’re
by women. We feel vulner- like, ‘I could forgive him. I could call him. I could make up
able with Adele, empowered with him.’ Just, desperate.” The candor is heightened by
by Taylor. We want to watch a husky, soul-inlected warmth. “We just said, ‘You know
Beyoncé. Watch her dance, watch her dominate the mar- what? Let’s just drink some whiskey and record this song.’ ”
ketplace, watch her slay. In this gloriously crowded arena, Then there’s “Work,” on which she repeats the word
Rihanna transmits something unique. Not afraid to show work until it is no longer recognizable, a lourish one critic
us her flaws, Rihanna inspires us to, as her friend Cara called “post-language.” While it evokes a technofuture, it’s
Delevingne puts it, “go with your instinct and go with your actually a nod to her home culture in Barbados. (Though
gut, and if people don’t like you, fuck ’em.” Rihanna now splits her time between New York and
This take-it-or-leave-it realness is what draws young L.A., her ties to the island remain strong. She is close with
women into the ranks of Rihanna’s iercely loyal fan base, her mother, Monica Braithwaite, who owns a clothing
known as her Navy, after a lyric from boutique there, and with her mater-
her song “G4L.” And in 2016, the nal grandfather, Lionel Braithwaite, a
Navy is going to get a lot of Rihanna. “It might not be frequent star of her Instagram feed.)
Over the next few weeks alone, her
plan is to ly to New York to debut a col-
some automatic record “You get what I’m saying, but it’s not
all the way perfect,” she says. “Because
lection she designed for Puma at New that will be Top 40,” that’s how we speak in the Caribbean.”
York Fashion Week; return to L.A. for In the accompanying video she made
the Grammys; then head to London
she says. “But I felt with Drake—“Everything he does is so
to perform at the Brit Awards (she will like I earned the right amazing”—Rihanna grinds and jerks in
grind with Drake in white-hot fringed a knitted Rasta-colored Tommy Hiliger
pants); and, two days after that, go
to do that now” dress at a raucous dance-hall party, the
back to California to begin a 63-city kind “we would go to in the Caribbean
world tour. Her looks on tour are “inspired by neutral earth and just dance and drink and smoke and lirt,” with her
tones,” she says, “and evolve from one extreme to the other real-life best friends, Melissa Forde and Jennifer Rosales.
as the show progresses.” Joining her will be Big Sean and the There have been a few singles dropped along the way,
Weeknd in Europe, as well as Travis Scott, whom she’s been including “FourFiveSeconds,” an acoustic collaboration
seen out with in the last few months. “I like to bring people with Kanye West and Paul McCartney. “It’s almost like no
who can get the crowd excited,” she says. one ever told him about his success,” Rihanna says of Mc-
“I probably am going to have like four days of tour Cartney, whom she found to be endearingly humble. “It’s
rehearsal in total, which is Freaking. Me. Out,” Rihanna like, Aren’t you busy being a Beatle?” Last spring brought
says. It’s after 9:00 p.m., the shoot is over, and we’re sitting “Bitch Better Have My Money,” an over-the-top revenge
cross-legged in red leather recliners in the home theater of fantasy whose video walked the line between empowerment
the Beverly Hills house, sipping Pinot Grigio from Dixie and misogyny. “It’s just a way to describe a situation,” she
cups. “My schedule is so crazy right now.” It’s why, she says. “It’s a way to be in charge, to let people know that
says, she’s single: “It’s deinitely going to be a challenge you’re all about your business.”
when I do decide to pursue a relationship . . . but I have Over the past two years, Rihanna has deinitely been all
hope!” Exercise is also hard to ind time for. “I don’t work about her business. After fulilling her contract with Def
out as much as I’d like to,” she says, “but my trainer Jamie Jam, she created her own imprint, Westbury Road Enter-
is a beast and she makes me pay for it.” tainment, on Universal’s Roc Nation label. In a bold move,
After her last tour, in 2013, for Unapologetic, Rihanna she then acquired the masters of all her previous albums
vowed to take a break from recording. “I wanted to have a and made a reported $25 million promotional deal with
233
Samsung. Robyn Rihanna Fenty, the island girl plucked what many on Rihanna’s team have said. “There isn’t an
from obscurity at sixteen by a posse of music moguls, is image, a font, a piece of clothing that she does not approve,”
becoming one herself. It’s because she’s so attuned to the her longtime manager, Jay Brown, says.)
seismic changes in her industry that she also bought a share It’s a natural move: Rihanna loves fashion, and fashion
of Tidal. “Streaming counts now,” she says. Like any savvy designers love her. Tom Ford describes her style as “daring,
businesswoman, Rihanna knows it’s important to diversify. fearless, and constantly evolving.” (Rihanna, in turn, says
Last fall, she announced a new venture, Fr8me, an agency of Ford admiringly that he “knows how to make a woman
representing stylists and hair and makeup artists. She has a bad bitch.”) Olivier Rousteing of Balmain likens her to
a passionate interest in beauty and often scouts her own Michael Jackson, David Bowie, and Prince: “Whether
talent on Instagram. masculine or feminine, she makes it sexy. She has this
In the midst of all this, she somehow found time to take strength and modernity.”
a role in Valérian and the City of a Thousand Planets, a ilm She seems very comfortable in the role. Just consider
based on a French comic series. Directed by Luc Besson, the dress she wore to accept the Fashion Icon Award from
it costars Dane DeHaan and Delevingne and is due out in the Council of Fashion Designers of America in 2014, a
2017. Speaking by phone, Besson is reluctant to give too sheer, Swarovski-encrusted ishnet number by Adam Sel-
much away about her character, except man that left little to the imagination. “I
to say that her personality changes “every just liked it better without the lines un-
fifteen seconds.” “As you can imagine, “I always wanted derneath. Could you imagine the CFDA
because she’s number one in her business, to do what my dress with a bra? I would slice my throat.
she has a protection, like a crocodile,” the I already wanted to, for wearing a thong
director says of Rihanna. “But she really brothers were doing. that wasn’t bedazzled. That’s the only
let herself go. I was so touched by her.” regret I have in my life.” Wearing a thong
Earlier at the house, two men in suits
I always wanted to that wasn’t bedazzled is your greatest re-
arrived from the Recording Industry As- play the games they gret in life? “To the CFDA awards. Yes.”
sociation of America to present Rihanna Nearly a year later, on the Met gala’s
with two plaques: one certifying Anti’s
played and play 2015 red carpet, so-called naked dresses
platinum status, the other commemorat- rough and wear pants were rocked by Jennifer Lopez (Atelier
ing a benchmark she reached last July, Versace), Kim Kardashian West (Roberto
when she became the irst artist in history and go outside” Cavalli), and Beyoncé (Givenchy Haute
to reach 100 million downloads online. (In Couture by Riccardo Tisci). And what was
another sign of the turbulent state of the music industry, re- Rihanna in? A magniicently regal nearly ten-foot, 55-pound
ports will later cast doubt on Anti’s platinum status, pointing canary-yellow cape that took the Chinese couturier Guo Pei
out that the RIAA took into account one million giveaways two years to make, and which Rihanna sourced herself, on the
that were part of the Samsung deal.) Rihanna seems genu- Internet. “She really loves to experiment with silhouettes and
inely surprised by the accolades. “In lats and sweats!” she texture and styles, but when something works, she is ready to
says, stretching out a leg. “If only I knew they were coming, run in the other direction,” says her head stylist, Mel Otten-
I would’ve at least put on a cute little thing.” berg, who appears in many of the photographs of Rihanna
With the sudden release of “Formation” during Anti’s that night, carrying the cape’s massive embroidered train.
week of ascendance up the charts, it’s no wonder the Internet “My tux was covered in yellow feathers,” he says.
is pitting Beyoncé and Rihanna against each other. But that’s Back on Wall Street, Rihanna’s mom, Monica, told a re-
not how Rihanna thinks. “Here’s the deal,” she says. “They porter that her daughter has long been a chameleon. “You
just get so excited to feast on something that’s negative. never knew what she would want,” said Braithwaite, herself
Something that’s competitive. Something that’s, you know, sporting a short platinum chop. “One time she wanted to
a rivalry. And that’s just not what I wake up to. Because I can have pants, another time she wanted to have a lot of frills.
only do me. And nobody else is going to be able to do that.” Always changing. Always switching it up. She’s always been
like that.” Braithwaite is sitting with Rihanna’s younger
O
n an icy February night in New York, a brothers, Rajad and Rorrey, and her grandfather, who is P HOTO G RA P HE D AT TH E HO ME OF CA R LTO N A N D DAV ID G EB B IA
line gathers outside 23 Wall Street, once wearing a Roc Nation hoodie and hat.
the headquarters of J.P. Morgan’s bank- The room darkens. Models appear through a haze of
ing empire and tonight the venue for the smoke and bound down the runway, through an “arctic
Fashion Week debut of Fenty, the new urban forest,” as hairstylist Yusef Williams describes it,
Puma collection by Rihanna, who was in gothic streetwear with samurai flourishes. Luxe and
named women’s creative director of the futuristic, the collection references Hood by Air as well as
sportswear company in late 2014. Inside, Naomi Campbell, Rihanna’s own nonchalantly glamorous, globe-trotting life-
Chris Rock, and the rapper Wale are inding their seats. style. “Like if the Addams Family was wearing gymwear,”
Rihanna isn’t the irst music celebrity to try her hand at she’ll tell me later. The inal piece, a black oversize faux-fur
fashion design. But how involved was she in the process? hoodie, is worn by Gigi Hadid, who closes the show as a gor-
“Very dedicated,” the CEO of Puma, Björn Gulden, says geous frostbitten witch, with matte black lips and streaks of
backstage. “She picked every single fabric,” says Melissa Bat- white paint in her hair. Not one for understatement, Kanye,
tifarano, the design director behind the collection, motioning whose own new album and fashion show were presented
to a table of high-end do-rags, nineties chokers (a signature the day before at Madison Square Garden, will review
Rihanna accessory), and faux-fur fanny packs. (This echoes the show on Twitter: “Wow C O N T I N U E D O N PA G E 2 8 7
234
SUCCESS
STORY
While recording
Anti, Rihanna also
found time to create
her own imprint,
acquire the masters of
her previous albums,
and strike a one-
of-a-kind deal with
Samsung. Marchesa
bralette. In this story:
hair, Yusef; makeup,
Mark Carrasquillo; set
design, Bette Adams
for Mary Howard
Studio. Details, see
In This Issue.
CLOUD ATLAS
Like the clothes,
the art-sanctuary
terrain of Las Pozas—
both man-made and
not—is worlds away
from the ordinary.
Model Grace Hartzel
wears a Gucci koi-
pond embroidered
dress complete
with fish and lily
pads; select Gucci
boutiques. Details,
see In This Issue.
Fashion Editor:
Camilla Nickerson.
W E L C O M E
T O
T H E
A LUSH, SCULPTURE-STREWN GARDEN OF EDEN IN
THE MOUNTAINS OF CENTRAL MEXICO MAKES A TORRID
SETTING FOR THE SEASON’S MOST SULTRY ( AND,
SOMETIMES, SURREAL ) FLOWERS–BY–FRIDA KAHLO LOOKS.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY MIKAEL JANSSON.
J U N G L E
THE REAL
MACAW
Many of these looks
brilliantly channel
both the elegance and
the fearless quirk of
Schiaparelli c. 1934.
Lanvin jersey dress,
$4,590; select Saks
Fifth Avenue stores.
Earrings by Givenchy
Haute Couture by
Riccardo Tisci and Lulu
Frost. Brooches by
Sonia Rykiel, Miriam
Haskell, and Lulu
Frost. Gaspar gloves.
POWER FLOWER
Can there be a bloom
of the moment? We think
yes—and right now, it’s
the poppy (stronger than
a hothouse orchid, more
wayward than a rose). Dolce
& Gabbana swimsuit, $545;
select Dolce & Gabbana
boutiques. Chanel cuffs.
BEAUTY NOTE
A bold lip adds an edge to
spring’s prettiest florals.
The Estée Edit by Estée
Lauder’s mulberry-hued
Barest Lipcolor in Nude
Scene blends flower waxes 239
for a natural sheen.
240
JUNGLE RED
Harking back to the
cinematic drama of the
1940s, wicked-woman
scarlet is the essential
statement color for
the passionate and the
artistically inclined.
Marc Jacobs patent
leather skirt ($4,800)
and silk blouse ($1,800);
select Marc Jacobs
stores. Dries Van Noten
embroidered bra, $590;
Barneys New York,
NYC. Chanel belt. Tom
Ford ankle-strap heels.
SELF-PORTRAIT
WITH MONKEY
The folkloric accent
here isn’t just in the
blunt Aztec-inspired
haircut but in the
peasant sleeves as
well. Céline cotton
poplin top ($1,800)
and skirt ($2,600);
Céline, NYC. Alexander
McQueen cuffs.
SOCIAL
BUTTERFLY
When-Dalí-met-
couture motifs—
the disembodied
hands, the kiss
print—are witty,
wonderfully chic,
and not too weird.
Bally silk blouse,
$1,195; Bally,
NYC. Sonia Rykiel
earring. Fallon
pearl earring and
nose ring. Details,
see In This Issue.
243
FEMME
FATALE
In its construction,
this corset dress—
with a va-voom
bandeau at the
chest—is a classic
hourglass. The
addition of an
exposed bra raises
the temperature to
scorching. Oscar de
la Renta silk-cady
dress, $3,290;
select Oscar de la
Renta boutiques.
Dawnamatrix
gloves. Details,
see In This Issue.
SIGN
LANGUAGE
Hands and gloves
(with or without
sequin “fingernails”)
were among
Schiaparelli’s
trademarks. Here,
slightly kinky latex
iterations signal
an emphatic
independent streak.
Chanel dress; select
Chanel boutiques.
Dawnamatrix
gloves. Miu Miu
platform shoes.
246
ADULT SWIM
Corseted structures
made a return on
many runways.
Maison Margiela uses
shirring, underwiring,
and a low hip line
on a black-and-
white lily one-piece
(available at Maison
Margiela, NYC) for
a supersophisticated
alternative to skin,
skin, skin. Details,
see In This Issue.
WINGED
VICTORY
Hummingbirds and
flamingos are the
natural companions
of all these tropical
flowers. And they’re
to be found, in
rainbow array, on
Alexander McQueen’s
embroidered dress
(available at Alexander
McQueen, NYC). In
this story: hair, Shay
Ashual; makeup,
Hannah Murray.
Photographed at Las
Pozas, Xilitla, with
Fundación Pedro y
Elena Hernández,
A.C. Details, see
In This Issue.
SE T D ES I G N, N I CH OLAS D ES JA RD IN S FO R MA RY HOWA RD ST U D IO ; P RO DUCE D BY MARCUS WAR D FOR NORTH SIX.
249
Free
Style
Nineteen-year-old Katie Ledecky has
emerged as a once-in-a-lifetime
phenomenon, breaking multiple world
records in races short and long.
What’s her secret? asks Robert Sullivan.
Photographed by Annie Leibovitz.
ne of the reasons it
is diicult to see precisely what makes Katie Ledecky perhaps
the greatest athlete in America, and maybe the planet, is
that when she comes out of her house it is dark, as in very
dark, as in 4:25 in the morning. Naturally, conversation at
this hour is limited: The swimmer is under the hood of her
parka and savoring those last few moments before the 5:00 POOL SHARK
a.m. plunge, while her father, David Ledecky, who is ferrying As the Rio games
approach, swimming
her to practice, is DJ-ing a little classic rock, as fathers driv- sensation Ledecky
ing their nineteen-year-old daughters anywhere typically do. trains up to 30
Ninety minutes and thousands of strokes later, at the hours per week.
“She doesn’t have
pool at Georgetown Prep, in Bethesda, Maryland, where
a lot of time on
Ledecky trains six days a week, it’s easy to spot the swim- land,” her father
mer who has broken her own world record in the 800-meter says. Hair, Braydon
Nelson; makeup,
Asami Taguchi.
250 Sittings Editor:
Phyllis Posnick.
P HOTO G RA P HE D AT T HE STON E RI D G E SC HO O L O F T HE SAC RED HE A RT. S ET D ESIGN, MARY H OWAR D.
freestyle an astounding four times since 2013. She is the six- pressure?’ ” She shakes her head and rolls her eyes, long-
foot-tall woman powering through her laps alongside the limbed and friendly in person, with nut-brown hair and a
men, a few lanes away from the rest of the women. Seated wide smile. “And I really don’t feel it. I’ve just always set goals.
in the stands is the swimmer’s mother, Mary Gen (short for When I was a kid, I would write them down, and I would
Mary Genevieve), who doesn’t get into the particulars of work toward them, and that’s still pretty much what I do. In
her daughter’s technique. “You should ask Katie,” she says. 2013, I sat down with my coach, and my goals are set through
“I wonder what she’ll say. We try to stay out of strategies. 2016, though since then a few things have been added.”
We just try to make sure she’s happy.” “You used to put them up in your room,” her mom says
To that end, Mary Gen Ledecky sprints from the pool from the driver’s seat.
before practice is over, places an order on her phone, and “They’re just not in my room now,” Ledecky says. “I have
drives to the Ledeckys’ favorite deli, Ize’s, to pick up break- a reminder somewhere, but I am not going to tell where.”
fast. Does the Olympian order special Her fans (and they are legion, and
açai powders or protein shakes that were they are swimming in high school pools
originally tested by NASA? Does she “I don’t know if she has the world over) see her as the poster
favor anything that gives a clue as to
how a person can win only gold medals
any weaknesses,” woman for optimistic self-discipline,
with 20 to 25 hours per week in the pool
since her 2012 Olympic debut as a if- Olympic gold medalist and about five hours of work in the
teen-year-old? Or how, given her subse- gym. An example of this work ethic: In
quent golds in the 200-, 400-, 800-, and
Missy Franklin said. 2014, she tells me, achieving her world-
1,500-meter freestyle races at the FINA “If she does, we haven’t record-setting mile speed was not only
World Championships in Russia last not easy but painful—she drove her-
August, she pulled off a first-time-in- seen them yet” self very hard to win. “That hurt,” she
history coup that, by the way, set world says. She kept pushing herself, though.
records in the 800 and 1,500, when people had thought that “Now my speed from 2014 becomes my easy speed.”
maybe she was good only at short distances? (“I don’t know This is the extent of her secret weaponry: a devotion to
if she has any weaknesses,” Olympic gold medalist Missy practice, to superhuman goals achieved with a low-key,
Franklin said recently. “If she does, we haven’t seen them family-supported routine, one that involves watching
yet.”) Sportswriters are pulling muscles trying to explain the CNN after dinner and maybe a little on-demand SNL
signiicance of this four-event sweep by Ledecky, which is while doing all the big reading for school on the weekend,
akin to a runner’s taking the gold in the 100-yard dash and so she can get to bed by nine-thirty. “She’s extraordinarily
then doing the same for the marathon. “Katie wants an om- ordinary in some respects,” says her older brother, Michael,
elet,” says her mom. “She doesn’t really eat anything special.” 21, a senior at Harvard and an editor for the Crimson.
“I mean, the way she carries herself, the way she goes
edecky seemed to swim from nowhere about things—there’s no drama or anything like that. She’s
L
to win a gold at the London Olympics just always very dialed-in and doesn’t let the extraneous
four years ago, and her trail of gold things, whether it’s expectations or anything else, get in
medals and broken world records her way.” Katie credits the dozens of Stratego games she
since is like nothing seen before. Even played against Michael in London before her swims with
though you might search for that one preparing her mentally for her Olympic gold, and cites his
special thing—as everyone surely will if diligence as her inspiration. “I’ve always looked up to my
she takes as many medals in Rio as an- brother, for how hard he works,” she says. “I started swim-
ticipated (and breaks some more world ming with him, and we had a lot of fun.”
records)—Ledecky’s trick will likely remain elusive. Her Her poolside rep is that of the teammate who sticks
coach, Bruce Gemmell, irst met her at the 2012 Olympics; around for other people’s races; even a little before 7:00
his son, Andrew, was on the 2012 Olympic team and now a.m., she is impressively upbeat. On the quick drive home to
trains with Ledecky. “Her strength is not in any physical at- the Ledeckys’ cozy Colonial in Bethesda, there’s only time
tribute,” says Gemmell. “It’s not even in any particular tech- to discuss the barest of the day’s logistics because when her
nique. It’s in her overwhelming desire to do what she needs mother pulls into the driveway, Katie is up the stairs and into
to do to get better.” Sure, she does the little things, makes bed, to sleep for an hour before her classes at Georgetown
the technical changes—working hard on her tempo and her University. Her father, an attorney, is in the kitchen. “She
stroke count, along with adjusting her kick—and she does doesn’t have a lot of time on land,” he says.
her share of training in the gym and meets with a nutritionist While the Olympian sleeps, her parents recount Katie’s
to supplement her Ize’s habit. “As far as I’m concerned, the history in the pool. Mary Gen, who had herself been a
bigger story is that she’s a better person than she is a swim- championship swimmer in college, was looking for a place
mer,” Gemmell continues. “We all know she’s a pretty good for the family to swim in the D.C. area, where, it turns out,
swimmer, but she’s just a better person.” competitive swimming has deep roots. (The irst pool she
What is most evident at swim meets, in fact, is exactly what tried had a seven-year waiting list.) When Mary Gen inally
is not happening, Ledecky’s Zen-like way of avoiding stress. landed a membership at a club, she realized her kids knew
She is not about to be so rude as to ignore the question that none of the other children there, and so out of parental
is asked of her over and over, but in her of time—in the car desperation an Olympic hopeful was born. “Hey,” Mary
on the way home from morning practice, anyway—Ledecky Gen said, “do you guys want to join the swim team?” Two
seems perplexed. “People always ask, ‘Don’t you feel the big road-to-the-Olympics moments: an early race in which
252
CALM WATERS
The champion is known for maintaining preternatural tranquillity under extreme pressure.
six-year-old Katie grabs on to the lane lines for support 800-meter in Austin in January, another swimmer was
(an extremely cute home video conirms this), and great overheard saying, “Channel the SEAL, Katie!”
disappointment on Katie’s part that same year when an Post-nap, Katie goes to lunch in Georgetown, at the
ear infection nearly prevented her from reaching her irst Tombs, one of the family’s favorite restaurants. As she
in a long line of goals, to race all the way across the pool works through a chicken salad, she happily talks about
without stopping. (Her doctor suggested earplugs.) Today, old races, remembering, eventually, the world-record-
it’s all Rio, all the time. breaker in Russia last year that happened in a preliminary
“I don’t know how she does it. I mean, it’s a grind,” says 1,500-meter freestyle, accidentally! She’s laughing and
her mother. looking a little amazed herself, still, as she remembers how
“I don’t either,” says her father. “We’re biased, but she’s a it went. “My coach told me to swim the first 900 meters
great kid.” easy, and then to build over the next 300, and then the inal
Katie’s scholarship to Stanford begins this fall; she de- 300 was going to be my call,” she says. “And then word
ferred for a year to train for the Olympics. Last fall, when started getting around that I was just going easy. That be-
I visited, she was enrolled in two classes at Georgetown: came the joke. ‘Hey, Katie, let’s see what your easy is!’ ”
Chinese history and politics. “They keep me mentally en- Somehow, as she remembers it, the teasing did some-
gaged,” she says. As Rio approaches, she’d like to hang out thing: It put her at ease going into the race and then opened
with friends from home, many of them former swim-team a pathway to full-on power. In the last stretches, she re-
mates from the Stone Ridge School of the Sacred Heart, members, she could see the American swimmers’ families,
her Catholic high school alma mater, but given all the de- including her own. The stadium was nearly empty since it
mands of her training, there’s not a lot of time for social- was a mere preliminary race. Her mother was chatting with
izing or dating. Katie loves dressing up for the occasional a friend, then turned her attention to Michael, who was
swimming-awards event: She leans toward tailored dresses watching his sister. “It looks like she might do something
in a nautical palette of black, navy, and cream. Katie just special here,” he said. And then Katie could hear the crowd
barely had time to sneak in a book recently, Living with roar, and as she looked out of the water on each breath,
a SEAL, in which the author trains with a Navy SEAL. she focused on the father of another swimmer who was
“It’s got a lot of bad language, but it’s a great book,” she furiously waving her on. Katie smiles about it. “The joke is
says. Just before Katie broke her own world record in the that he’s still icing his shoulder,” she says.
253
Since their electrifying win at last year’s
World Cup, the U.S. women’s team has ignited
soccer mania. Reluctant striker Hamish
Bowles trains with star scorer Alex Morgan.
Photographed by Annie Leibovitz.
I
was the ultimate tomboy,” says women’s-soccer
supernova Alex Morgan, remembering her child-
hood self. “I’m supercompetitive. I wanted to
beat the boys at everything, I wanted to be faster;
I wanted to be stronger.”
I, on the other hand, was the ultimate sissy.
“He’s got footballer’s knees!” exulted my father
at the very moment of my first appearance in
this world. Unfortunately for him, I showed no
interest whatsoever in the Beautiful Game. I don’t
remember anyone ever teaching me how to play;
in England it was simply assumed that every boy
would understand the rudiments of the sport.
(Girls weren’t part of the equation at that time: They had netball,
rounders, and hockey to keep them occupied.)
In a doomed attempt to hook me in, Dad took me, aged ten, to
watch his beloved local team, Hendon, play in the Amateur Cup
semiinal. I vividly recall my father’s disquieting transformation
from mild-mannered accountant to Tasmanian Devil, hurling
invective, forbidden swear words, and spittle at the hapless play-
ers below. Not long after, Dad had to bribe me to attend a white
hot–ticket Liverpool vs. Chelsea match with the promise of a trip
to the antiques market of Portobello Road the following morning.
In 1999, when Morgan was ten, the U.S. Women’s National
soccer team, led by Mia Hamm, Julie Foudy, and Michelle Akers,
won the FIFA Women’s World Cup, 5–4, against China. From
MASTER CLASS
Bowles endured sprint drills and sliding tackles at the
knee of an American great. He and Morgan wear Official
U.S. Soccer gear by Nike. Details, see In This Issue.
Sittings Editor: Karen Kaiser.
255
that point on, she was hooked. At sixteen, already a star on Savile Row tweeds and elaborate tattoos) what advice he
her Diamond Bar, California, high school soccer team, she might have for me. David is a man of few words, but they
felt that her childhood dream of making it as a professional are usually well chosen. “Listen to the girls,” he counseled.
player was an achievable goal. “They’re the most driven athletes I’ve ever known, and their
My achievable soccer goal, meanwhile, was to continue success is showing it. They know better than most of the
avoiding the ball at all costs. In my irst term at high school guys. Listen to them—and run fast!”
I was inexplicably picked for the irst eleven—the elite soc-
cer team—presumably because I could run fast. I briely eeding his advice, I begin my odyssey
H
served as goalkeeper, a role in which I displayed astonishing by lying to Los Angeles to work with
thespian, if not athletic, skills as I pretended to miss the Dawn Scott, the revered trainer respon-
ball by inches as it pelted toward me at breakneck speed. sible for keeping the U.S. women’s team
Mostly, though, I just loitered about on the outskirts of the in fighting and winning form. In the
ield with my best friend, gossiping away and admiring our spirit of that person who does a spring
imaginary nail varnish as the ball and the rest of the players clean before the housekeeper arrives,
went whizzing past. Never, then, in my wildest teen dreams I book in for some pre-training sessions beforehand.
did I expect that one day I would be gossiping away and I meet my fetching Brazilian-Swedish trainer, Daniel
having my nails done alongside one of the most admired Söderström, in the prettily landscaped gardens surround-
and lauded soccer players in America. ing the La Brea Tar Pits on the grounds of the Los Angeles
Morgan is understandably dumbfounded by the pitiful County Museum of Art. He has set up a loor ladder, cones,
trajectory of my soccer odyssey, with its pattern of resis- and a series of nets and goal posts under the shade of a
tance to the sexist norm. “It’s almost the complete opposite spreading maple tree next to a pit in which a prehistoric
for women soccer players,” the 26-year-old explains. “We’re sloth was once trapped, an ominous metaphor for my own
dying to play and people are telling us, ‘You can’t play.’ speed if ever there was one.
I almost wish I’d been forced into it, instead of my having Söderström and I work on my “cognitive skills,” which
to ight for it!” are sadly, if not surprisingly, wanting: I can’t quite connect
I conide in Morgan that I am being forced into the sport my foot to the ball. When I inally make contact, I kick it so
again now, for the irst time since those early teenage morti- wide of any of the goals that it hits the maple tree’s trunk
ications. The assignment would be tolerable were it not for with a force that sends half a dozen squirrels hurtling from
the childhood traumas keeping me awake at night. But if its sheltering limbs.
England’s Sir Stanley Matthews, a mid-century star revered Two days later, I meet Scott in the StubHub Center in
by Dad for his dribbling skills, was still playing at 50, the balmy Carson, where she is putting Morgan’s teammate
least I could do was give it a go. Christen Press through her paces. Growing up, Press tells
We start off with a“Turkish get-up,”which, sadly, is not some fabulous sable-trimmed
robe to prance around Topkapi Palace in, but a grueling warm-up exercise
My friend Simon Doonan was able to provide further reas- me, she thought, “Soccer’s so fun because you have all your
surance: He is currently writing a book about soccer through friends. You come to practice and you talk about everything
the lens of fashion and style, a project that I am at least half- and you’re running and gossiping. It’s like social hour!”
interested in. “There’s nothing I don’t know about George If only I had looked at it that way myself.
Best’s cleats,” Doonan told me over our pep-talk lunch. Scott, who wears her ine, laxen hair pulled back sensibly,
“It’s a stat-mad world, so I’m looking for correlations hails from the no-nonsense north of England, where she
where fashion-obsessed players score more goals!” He “grew up playing on the streets with the boys.” She fondly re-
supports his thesis by citing style-crazed players including members her father taking her to the local Newcastle games
A.C. Milan’s Mario Balotelli (and his camoulage-wrapped during the era of the charismatic Kevin “Mighty Mouse”
Bentley Continental GT); Paris Saint Germain’s Zlatan Keegan, famed for his Barbra Streisand–in–Evergreen perm.
Ibrahimović (who favors Rick Owens and a man bun); Scott’s training programs are customized to each play-
and Real Madrid’s Cristiano Ronaldo, who arrives for er, taking into account age and injury history. The ath-
training carrying a Gucci wash bag tucked under his arm letes, based all around the country with their local teams
like a minaudière. when they are not training for the U.S., contribute their
The ultimate football fashionisto, of course, is David information—including diet and all-important sleep
Beckham, who practically minted the concept of the me- recovery—to a central online database so that Scott and
trosexual male with his unquestioning embrace of fashion. head coach Jill Ellis can download it at the end of the day
“I like nice clothes, whether they’re dodgy or not,” Beck- and monitor the GPS and the heart rate of all the players,
ham has said, and who can forget his brave experiments along with their speed, agility, and itness levels, and adjust
with faux-hawks and sarongs? the routines accordingly. “It’s a daily ongoing process,” says
As it happens, I recently found myself at an intimate Scott. “You’re dealing with 25 diferent personalities. You
Manhattan dinner party with Victoria Beckham and her can’t expect they’re all going to be the same.”
husband, and I thought that I would seize the day and Now it’s my turn to become intimately acquainted with
ask the glamorous soccer legend (impeccable that night in Scott’s all-star program. I start with forward-bend walks “to
256
switch on the glutes and core,” according to Scott, who then hooded sweatshirt, and a practical Marc Jacobs purse in
introduces me to something iendish called a “Turkish get- navy and putty. Morgan has been thrice to the New York
up,” which, sadly, is not some fabulous sable-trimmed robe fashion shows and shops at Veronica Beard, Rag & Bone,
to prance around Topkapi Palace in, but a grueling warm-up and AllSaints. “A lot of fashion is now very athletic-looking,
exercise. Press does the movements with sleek balletic grace so that’s cool for me,” she says. “When I am traveling, I need
and a ifteen-pound weight held aloft as though it were a my basics with something that makes my outit stand out.
dandelion clock. Scott coolly assesses my form and hands It needs to be packable and interchangeable.”
me a shoe to work with instead. Morgan proselytizes for her sport not only through her
We follow up with trap-bar work, power cleans, dead astonishing performances on the ield (she is famed for her
lifts, squats, kettle bells, Bulgarian splits, down slides, late heroics—like scoring the winning goal against Canada
mountain climbers, and box jumps. “This takes months, in the 2012 Olympics semiinal game in London in the 123rd
Morgan has barely two and a half weeks without training every year.
“It goes by incredibly fast—faster than you would ever want it to go!” she says
years to learn the technique,” Scott says reassuringly. “I minute) but also via her motivational autobiography, Break-
don’t want you to feel fatigued too soon.” Frankly, I am away: Beyond the Goal, and her popular series of soccer nov-
already wiped out. “Let’s do two diferent exercises,” she els aimed at middle school kids. In addition to playing and
adds cheerily, “and then we will go out to the ield.” Gawd, writing, she is a forceful lobbyist for equality in a sport where
I’d almost forgotten that bit. sexism is still shockingly rampant, if not institutionalized.
A typical field session begins with a good warm-up Late last year Morgan and her teammates Shannon
and might include some speed work, then high-intensity Boxx and Julie Johnston were invited to join a roundtable
interval training. “You run 90 yards, which should take at the Forbes Under 30 Summit in Philadelphia, where
you ifteen seconds, and you rest for ifteen seconds. You they discussed the inequality in the game. The $265,000
do twelve of those,” Scott says. I am trying to take this salary cap for women’s national-league soccer players, for
alarming information on board, but I am also soaking up instance, is less than one tenth that for men’s major-league
the beauty of the ield, fringed with eucalyptus and palm soccer players. (International male supernovas Lionel Messi
trees and blissfully unlike any of the frigid muddy pitches and Cristiano Ronaldo, meanwhile, take home around
I remember from childhood. $1,000,000 a week.) After the U.S. women’s thrilling 2015
After four runs, my heart rate is at a pounding 194. “Train- World Cup victory, it was revealed that they were awarded
ing like this is really, really hard,” Press tells me. “Training $2 million; the German men’s team received $35 million
until you’re about to throw up every single day—it’s kind of after winning the 2014 cup. “I think players need to get paid
miserable, actually. But that makes it so much more fun when for what they’re worth, for what they put up on the ield,”
you come back together as a team.” Morgan told the summit.
At 21, Morgan was the youngest player on the team for
wo months later, Scott’s good work undone the 2011 FIFA Women’s World Cup, and was subsequently
T
by holiday dining and indolence, I am in named U.S. Soccer Female Athlete of the Year in 2012 and
Orlando, Florida, having my nails done placed third in the FIFA Ballon d’Or—essentially the world
alongside Alex Morgan, a player so starry soccer MVP—that same year. At the ceremony, FIFA’s
that her new team, the Orlando Pride, was absurd and controversial president Sepp Blatter, who had
essentially created around her in 2015. Her earlier suggested that women players should wear “tighter
husband, midielder Servando Carrasco shorts” to improve the game’s popularity, failed to recognize
(they met almost a decade ago, when they were both playing Morgan. (A sense of Schadenfreude might have washed
soccer at University of California, Berkeley), had recently over the women’s locker rooms when Blatter was forced to
transferred to Orlando City. Servando has been moving them step down from his position at FIFA earlier this year after
into their new house, as his wife only returned yesterday after proceedings were iled against him for “criminal mismanage-
three months on the road. “It looks so pretty,” Morgan says ment . . . and misappropriation” by the Swiss authorities.)
of their home, “but I had never actually been to the house There seems to be sexism afoot, too, in the fact that the
or the neighborhood, so it was kind of a weird experience.” seven U.S. women’s World Cup matches in Canada were
(She worked with a realtor and FaceTime.) “My husband played on artiicial rubber and plastic turf, even though
got traded to Houston, and then here, and each time he had most of the players had spent their careers playing on grass.
to ind a place within 48 hours. The life of professional ath- Turf is exponentially harder on the body and can lead to
letes—you have to live your life on the go!” Morgan shrugs. impact injuries, and it discourages daring moves like slid-
“But I’m living with him for the irst time since college, so I ing tackles. There is no hooliganism in women’s soccer,
don’t really care where we are—we will make it work!” however, and homophobia is a non-starter. “Gone are the
Morgan may just have come from her hour-and-45-minute days that you need to come out of a closet,” said Abby
morning workout, but she is looking prom-queen perfect, as Wambach (star of four World Cup tournaments and two
beits this poster girl for women’s soccer. She wears orchid Olympic Games), who was surprised at the media scrutiny
purple leggings that showcase her legendarily toned and when she married her long-term partner, Sarah Hufman,
muscular legs, her favorite Nike trainers in tangerine, a gray in 2013. “I never felt like I was in a closet.”
257
FIGHTING FORM
With the Olympics
in August, Morgan’s
punishing training
schedule typically
brings her to the field
twice a day. Morgan in
Nike. In this story: hair,
Peter Gray; makeup,
Benjamin Puckey.
Production design,
Mary Howard. Details,
see In This Issue.
hen Morgan and her team-
W
mates trounced Japan 5–2 last
summer, more than 25 million
people tuned in—the highest
rating ever for any American
soccer match, male or female.
Since then, the U.S. team
has played to crowds that average 24,000—the biggest for
women’s sports anywhere in the world. “They want to watch
something fun on the ield, and I think other cultures are so
opposed to that, they won’t even give it a chance,” says Mor-
gan. “If they did, I think they would enjoy it.”
If Morgan collegially wants the other international teams
to improve their game, however, she clearly has no inten-
tion of letting her own go slack, and with the Olympics in
August, the schedule is punishing. Morgan has barely two
and a half weeks without training every year. “It goes by
incredibly fast—faster than you would ever want it to go!”
she says. She spends the downtime doing yoga, practicing
meditation, and playing beach volleyball.
These days she is watching her diet as never before. “As I
have gotten a little older, you notice that what you put in your
body actually afects your energy,” she says. “I know we need
carbs to burn of energy to play, but I eat more proteins and
grains like couscous and quinoa, and I will do rice, but I try
to limit the bread and the unnecessary stuf. I used to eat red
meat all the time, but now I try to eat it only once a week; it is
really hard to digest compared with chicken and ish.” I sense
one small area of commonality.
Morgan praises her trainer, Scott, with whom she has
worked for six years. “She just knows her stuff so well
and she works you hard, but you feel you’re getting some-
thing out of it.” After my own exertions in Los Angeles,
I certainly got an acute sense of Scott’s much-vaunted
insistence on sleep recovery.
The Orlando soccer ield Morgan and I go to for our
training session the following day is framed with palmetto
palms and trees dripping with Spanish moss. In fact, ev-
erything is dripping: It’s pouring with rain. “This is so
Portland right now,” says Morgan with a laugh (she played
with the Portland Thorns for two years before her transfer
to Orlando). Undaunted, she does twelve sprints the length
of the ield and back before working on her dribbling and
goal-kicking skills. As the Olympics close in, Morgan and
her teammates will practice in the morning, then go to the
gym, rest, and train again.
Exhausted as Morgan is after all this, she attempts to
teach me the rudiments of a sliding tackle (luckily it’s a
real grass pitch). I throw myself backward, then forward,
to Morgan’s evident bemusement. Although she trains
children at her Los Angeles soccer camp, she has never
seen “form” like this.
Room for improvement, certainly, but for the irst time in a
half-century I can begin to see a glimmer of the ire that has
smoldered within my father for all these years.
The next time I run into David Beckham, it is ringside
with his beautifully dressed children at his wife’s fall 2016
fashion show in Manhattan. He chuckles at the idea that
I’ve been training.
“How’s those knees?” he asks me, with a twinkle in
his eye.
259
B o r n
Ethiopia is a running-mad country—but it’s never seen anything
like the Dibabas. Chloe Malle heads to Addis Ababa to meet the fastest
family on the planet. Photographed by Ron Haviv.
t o R u n
CATCH THEM IF YOU CAN

FROM LEFT: Sisters Ejegayehu, Genzebe, and Tirunesh
Dibaba, all wearing Nike, and their cousin Derartu
Tulu, in Adidas. Genzebe is expected to win gold in Rio,
while the other three are already Olympic medalists.
he only sound at the top streets of Addis Ababa, where they travel by car to avoid
T
of the Entoto Mountains is being mobbed. Their arrival at their favorite restaurant, Yod
the thwack of a cowherd’s Abyssinia, is greeted with hushed whispers (“Dee-ba-ba,
staf against the tree trunks Dee-ba-ba”) and reverential stares. The sisters duck under
as he leads his small herd the restaurant’s theatrical thatched straw canopies and take
of oxen home. I am doing a table against the wall, smiling patiently as a young man
my best to keep pace with approaches and asks for a photo. Afterward Tirunesh takes
Tirunesh Dibaba, 30, and out her iPhone 6 Plus—one of the few in the country, bought
her younger sister, Genzebe, in Europe—her cerise-lacquered nails clacking against the
25, two wisplike Ethiopi- screen as she swipes past the photo of chubby Nathan. For
ans with wide smiles and a a night out, she’s neatly coordinated in skinny red jeans, a
iercely close bond who may black blazer with white piping, and similarly duo-toned
be the most formidable fe- wedge sandals. She admits that she loves to shop when she is
male track stars in the world. In the late-afternoon light high competing abroad, particularly on Newbury Street in Boston
above central Addis Ababa, we zigzag between the majestic and at any Michael Kors store. Genzebe, who prefers Zara,
eucalyptus trees, paying heed to the uneven ground below compensates for her timidity with a sweet attentiveness. Her
and staying alert for the not-uncommon hyena sighting—no feet look tiny in black ballerina slippers with grosgrain bows
problem, the sisters assure me, as long as you clap loudly and over the toe box. She has replaced her Garmin GPS training
throw a rock in the animal’s direction. watch with a gold one whose pavé diamond–ringed face takes
The Dibabas’ dominance in the ield of distance running up the entire width of her narrow wrist. Both women have
has captivated the track-and-ield community. “There are braids in their thick hair and giggle while conirming that
a few running families, but not like the Dibabas,” says the they share a hairdresser. Their respect and afection are obvi-
Ethiopian track legend Haile Gebrselassie. These are the ous: Genzebe lives with Tirunesh, sharing a bedroom with
only siblings in recorded history to hold concurrent world her baby nephew, and when she becomes lustered follow-
records, and they are as charming a question about her love life,
ingly unassuming in person as Tirunesh protectively steers the
they are fearsome on the track. “World records, Olympic conversation elsewhere. (For the
The sisters were raised three record, Genzebe has a boyfriend,
hours south of here, in a tukul, medals, world championships— but he is not a runner, and she
or round mud hut, without the Dibabas’ accomplishments doesn’t want to talk about him.)
electricity—their parents sub- When Tirunesh’s husband,
sistence farmers growing teff, are unprecedented in this sport,” fellow track-and-field Olympic
barley, and wheat. Their mother,
Gutu, credits her daughters’ suc-
says NBC’s Ato Boldon medalist Sileshi Sihine, appears,
cool and handsome in tailored
cess to a loving environment as jeans and a shawl collar cardigan,
well as a steady supply of milk from the family cows. another frisson of excitement ripples through the room. His
In fact there are seven Dibaba siblings, and all of them and Tirunesh’s 2008 wedding ceremony was a nationally tele-
run. “What the Dibabas have is what Serena and Venus have, vised event, drawing half a million people to the city’s main
except there are more of them,” says Ato Boldon, NBC’s square, where Olympic races are broadcast to huge crowds.
track analyst. “It’s not a stretch to say they are the world’s The bride wore a lace-embroidered bustier top and a mille-
fastest family.” Tirunesh is the most decorated, with three feuille tulle ball skirt; the groom, an iridescent gray pin-striped
Olympic gold medals; Genzebe is tipped to win her first morning suit—all purchased on a trip to Milan. They don’t
in Rio. Their older sister, Ejegayehu, 34, is an Olympian, remember the name of the clothier, “but one of the best,”
too, with a silver from Athens, and their cousin Derartu Sihine says authoritatively. “We know people.” Restaurant
Tulu was the irst black African woman to win an Olympic patrons lock their eyes on us as Sihine slips onto the low
gold, in the 1992 games. “World records, Olympic medals, wooden stool next to his wife, squeezing her knee in greeting.
world championships—the Dibabas’ accomplishments are As the string notes of the krar ill the room and dancers
unprecedented in this sport,” says Boldon. take the stage to perform an Ethiopian eskista dance—
With Rio on the horizon, the focus is squarely on Tirunesh a shoulder-snapping feat of timing and rhythm—I ask
and Genzebe. This is Tirunesh’s comeback season after tak- Tirunesh what music she likes to listen to. “Michael Jack-
ing a year of to raise her now one-year-old son, Nathan; son,” she answers with a sly smile. “He is my favorite,” the last
meanwhile, Genzebe had a record-breaking summer, deci- word pronounced in three crisp syllables. At this Genzebe,
mating the competition in August’s world championships breaking her shell of shyness, speaks up: “For me, Beyoncé.”
and winning IAAF’s Athlete of the Year award, a crowning Their status—and status symbols—marks a stark con-
glory in the sport. “Last year Genzebe was head and shoul- trast between the Dibabas and most others in this still highly
ders the best athlete in the world,” says race coordinator Matt impoverished country. Yet Ethiopia has the fastest-growing
Turnbull, who has worked with the Dibabas for almost a economy in sub-Saharan Africa, and Addis, with its ubiq-
decade. “And with Tiru being out for so long now, people are uitous eucalyptus-pole scaffolding and ragged blue con-
excited to see what will happen. They’re a iercely competitive struction tarps, is a riot of development. Like many of the
family, and they really dictate the landscape.” nation’s successful track stars, the Dibabas and their in-laws
As modest (and petite) as the Dibabas are face to face, they have invested their fortunes back into their city; they are
are outsize celebrities on the chaotic, construction-clogged burgeoning real estate tycoons, owning multiple buildings
262
in the capital—including the ive-star Tirunesh Hotel, slated one of Addis’s gated communities. Inside, framed photos of
to open this fall on Bole Road, the Fifth Avenue of Addis. family members on victory podiums take pride of place, and
Along with Kenya, Ethiopia is a powerhouse for turning a lat-screen TV plays yesterday’s Africa Cup soccer match,
out elite runners. According to David Epstein, author of but Tirunesh explains that she doesn’t particularly like watch-
The Sports Gene: Inside the Science of Extraordinary Athlet- ing sports. She and her sisters prefer Amharic ilms. What
ic Performance, much of the two countries lies in an altitude American ilms does she like? “Anything with Angelina Jolie.”
“sweet spot”—around 6,000 to 9,000 feet. “High enough to A large breakfast—traditional Ethiopian irir and eggs—is
cause physiological changes but not so high that the air is followed by a nap, lunch, and then it’s of to the gym. They
too thin for hard training,” Epstein says. As NBC’s Boldon are on two workouts a day until Rio.
explains, “When the Dibabas come down to sea level—I’m The air in Entoto, unlike the exhaust-choked streets of Ad-
not going to say it’s like Superman coming from Krypton, dis, is crisp and clean—and also thin at 10,000 feet above sea
but it is a version of that.” There’s also the Ethiopian diet, level. When we gather for our late-afternoon run, the Diba-
with its reliance on the iron- and calcium-rich grain tef, and bas’ cousin Tulu arrives on the mountaintop, now retired and
the typical Ethiopian body type, petite and narrow, which is looking more soccer mom than Olympian. The sisters cite her
ideal for the sport: Tirunesh is ive feet three and 110 pounds; as their inspiration, and her lilting voice boomerangs through
Genzebe is ive feet ive and 115 pounds. “They have a lot the trees as they jog together into a cattle clearing. Tulu, who
of fight in a very small lightweight frame,” says Boldon. won the New York City marathon in 2009 at the age of 37,
“If you compared them to a car, they would be a Ford Focus is a gregarious and outgoing foil to the soft-spoken Dibabas.
with a Ferrari engine.” When asked whom she will cheer for if Tirunesh and Genzebe
IT’S ALL RELATIVE

LEFT: Framed pictures fill the Dibaba family home in Addis Ababa. ABOVE: Genzebe, in red, with
Tirunesh and her husband, Sileshi Sihine—also an Olympic runner—and their son, Nathan.
Genzebe’s Ferrari engine is in top gear at Addis’s only compete against each other in Rio in the 5,000 or 10,000, Tulu
track stadium for an 8:00 a.m. workout. The sun is already does not hesitate and squeezes Tirunesh’s shoulder. “She! She
high overhead, and she is warming up with her nineteen- is my favorite!” then looks lovingly across at Genzebe: “I am
year-old sister Anna. They move at a focused, steady clip, sorry!” Genzebe remains diplomatic, saying only, “The stron-
their legs in sync, so that from across the track they look like gest will win,” while Tirunesh explains that they likely won’t
one person, Anna’s smaller frame blending into Genzebe’s. be in the same heat and then looks into the sun, which is dip-
As they speed up, moving seamlessly into sprints on the ping behind the crest of the mountain. “But we come to win,
straightaways, Genzebe’s strides are precise, a strict economy so. . . . ” She shrugs; the end of the sentence is unnecessary.
of energy and movement. The two inish the warm-up and There’s an intimacy up here as we jog among the dappled
plop down on the tartan track to shimmy out of their Nike eucalyptus, the Ethiopians slowing their pace to a relative
leggings, casual in their cotton underwear as they pull on shule while I wheeze from the efort and altitude. “We are
micro shorts, the pink swoosh on Genzebe’s matching her always together,” says Tirunesh. “Maybe one day a week we
fuchsia Dri-Fit T-shirt. aren’t together.” For all of their bashfulness, the sisters share
The ensuing workout is a series of 20 400-meter sprints, a mischievous humor that they sometimes let loose on inter-
timed by a national team coach, who jots down intervals in lopers like myself. At the end of our run in Entoto, Tirunesh,
red ballpoint on his palm. Genzebe shaves of seconds with jogging behind me, yells, “Hyena!” with authoritative urgency.
each rep, her muscles taut as bowstrings as she catapults her- I shriek, whipping my head around. When I look back at the
self across the inish line. Afterward it’s back to Tirunesh and girls, they are doubled over laughing, the only animal in sight
Sihine’s impressive home, a two-story stuccoed mansion in a weary pack mule trudging slowly across the horizon.
263
TIPPING t he BALANCE
Inspired by superstar gymnast Simone Biles, Ginny Graves explores the life-enhancing
benefits of poise, posture, and agility. Photographed by Norman Jean Roy.
I ’m trying to improve my balance,”
I tell a friend when she phones and
asks what I’m up to. “Aren’t we
all?” She sighs. “I feel like I’m con-
stantly racing around and never
accomplishing anything.” But I’m
not talking about the eternal quest for work-life equilibrium.
I’m actually standing (ine, wobbling) on my left leg, doing
biceps curls with my right arm, atop a BOSU ball.
Inspiring me is the nineteen-year-old gymnastics star
Simone Biles, whom I watched at the recent world cham-
pionships in Glasgow spinning 900 degrees on one foot on
the balance beam. The most dominant woman in the sport
today, the four-foot-eight powerhouse started racking up na-
tional wins at age thirteen. By now she has a record-breaking
ten world-championship gold medals and is the overwhelm-
ing favorite to bring home the gold in Rio. With her irrepress-
ible grin and warm sense of humor—she tweets jokily several
times a day—she’s also an overwhelming favorite, full stop.
So how does Biles pirouette, leap, and lip on a four inch–
wide beam with such apparent ease? “It helps that I started
when I was six,” she says, recalling the day her class took a
ield trip to Bannon’s Gymnastix in Houston. She began
imitating the students’ cartwheels and lips; her grandpar-
ents, who have raised Biles since she was three (her mother
struggled with addiction), thought the sport would be a
good outlet for their granddaughter. “Simone was super-
hyper and not afraid to try anything,” recalls her grand-
mother Nellie Biles (whom Simone calls Mom). “From the
time she got out of bed in the morning she was jumping and
lipping on the furniture.”
That tremendous energy, Biles believes, is what allows her
to throw jaw-dropping vaults with two-and-a-half twists
and perform a double layout with a half twist in her loor
routine—a feat that is now oicially known as “the Biles.”
The best in her game, she’s beating her nearest competitors
by full integers in a sport where medals are decided by frac-
tions of a point. Judges take routines’ diiculty into account;
hers are so ambitious that even when she makes mistakes, she
earns enough points to come out on top. Last October, at the
SE T D ES I G N, D E A RY’S GYM N AST I CS SU P P LY
world championships, she overrotated on a front lip on the

beam, and in an astounding save grabbed the apparatus with
her hands and righted herself. Despite the error, she brought
home the gold. “On the beam, C O N T I N U E D O N PA G E 2 8 7
STEADY NOW
Biles, in a GK Elite Sportswear leotard, credits her surefootedness
to her powers of concentration—and 30 minutes of core work every
day. Hair, Jawara; makeup, Yumi Lee. Details, see In This Issue.
Sittings Editor: Phyllis Posnick.
265
Money
for
Not h i n g
Claire Danes
and John Krasinski
star in the
Public Theater’s
Dry Powder—
a vicious and
hilarious drama
skewering
the people who
skewer our
global economy.
By Adam Green.
Photographed
by Steven Klein.
he catastrophic results of inancial reckless- a chamber piece, albeit one that goes for the jugular. “I had
T
ness can be found everywhere these days—in such a strong reaction to the conidence and muscularity
headlines, on movie screens (The Big Short). and precision of Sarah’s writing,” says Kail, who is staging
Now the human cost of ruthless greed is com- the play in the round. “I wanted to get all of us as close to the
ing to the Public Theater in Dry Powder, the action as possible, to create a mini-colosseum where we could
33-year-old Sarah Burgess’s scathingly funny, watch these characters crash into each other.”
remarkably assured play about the battle for the soul of a Hank Azaria plays Rick, the president of KMM Capital
private equity irm, starring Claire Danes and—making his Management, which is reeling from a public-relations night-
professional stage debut—John Krasinski. Directing is the mare (massive layofs at a company he acquired taking place
brilliant Thomas Kail, coming of the triumphs of Ham- on the same day he threw himself an extravagant engagement
ilton and the live-network-TV broadcast of Grease to helm party featuring a live elephant). Krasinski is Seth, one of
266
Rick’s founding partners, a self-proclaimed good guy who excited to ind her way into a new character after ive years
wants to make things right by acquiring a luggage company of playing Carrie Mathison on Homeland, though she does
and growing it; Danes is Jenny, a inancial Terminator who admit that Jenny and Carrie share some quirks. “They’re
wants to strip the company for its parts. “Seth is this great both incredibly myopic,” she says. “And they’re both dii-
epitome of the human condition,” says Krasinski, for whom cult and not immediately afable, but impassioned. Neither
the play has echoes of Glengarry Glen Ross. “He’s got a moral of them is encumbered by a life or the messiness of human
compass, but at the same time he thinks, You’re all so lucky to relationships—that’s their advantage. I do like that Jenny’s
have someone with my integrity inside the inancial system— not such an open wound, because Carrie is, and that’s pretty
rather than realizing he’s actually a part of that system.” exhausting. I ind Jenny very charming—how can somebody
Danes is thrilled to be returning to the New York stage have such awful values and say things that are so cutting and
for the irst time since her 2007 turn in Pygmalion. She’s also still be strangely adorable?”
Claire Danes wears an Altuzarra coat. John Krasinski wears a Dior Homme suit and a Paul Smith tie. Menswear Editor: Michael Philouze.
Hair, Bryce Scarlett; makeup, Matin. Set design, Mary Howard Studio. Details, see In This Issue. Sittings Editor: Phyllis Posnick.
The anything-goes food scene in Los Angeles is unconventional, liberated, creative—
and influential as never before. Oliver Strand reports. Photographed by Eric Boman.
E A S Y
A
t one time, a classic dish was a prisoner Los Angeles has a knack for taking the ignored, the
of geography. If you wanted to eat a commonplace, and turning it into something stylish and
true margherita pizza, you had to travel graceful—this is the city of Frank Gehry and John Baldessari
to Naples because the purists would tell and Rodarte, artists and craftspeople who made their names
you even the version you could ind in transforming the overlooked and everyday into high art.
Rome wasn’t quite right; by the time Outsiders have a hard time reading the city where I grew up.
you got to Milan, it was just a cheese At irst they don’t take it seriously—the place seems too obvi-
pizza. But the borders that separate culinary cultures don’t ous, even trashy. But if you tune out the skeptics, parts of this
mean that much anymore. Now you can get a margherita seemingly simple-minded megalopolis emerge as being so chic
at Roberta’s in Brooklyn that would make a grown Italian and perfect that the rest of the world scrambles to keep up.
weep salty tears of joy, or a plate of tacos at Hija de Sanchez Still, the restaurant scene here rarely gets the credit it de-
in Copenhagen that could stand up to the stalls in Mexico serves. The one in the Bay Area is more legendary, the one
City where the taxis patiently wait. in New York more polished. But a new crop of Los Angeles
Which is why I wasn’t entirely surprised by the croque establishments has been exerting a tangible inluence, with a
madame at Gjusta in Venice Beach. It wasn’t a SoCal play mix of gimmick-free food and airy design that is surfacing
on the French standard, a fusion of Left Coast lavors. It was elsewhere: at Dimes in New York, at La Recyclerie in Paris, at
textbook croque: toasted bread with Mornay sauce (which the London Plane in Seattle. Gjusta is now on the must-visit
is béchamel thickened with cheese), thinly sliced ham, and a list of chefs, bakers, and professional eaters.
sprinkling of Comté, all browned under a broiler and topped “Gjusta kind of blows me away because there are so many
by a fried egg with a thick and oozy yolk. And yet it was moving parts, and seeing it executed in such a manner is so
easily the best I had ever tasted, every lavor delivered with impressive. It’s smart, simple, well-made food,” says Ignacio
ringing clarity. Rediscovering the familiar can be chastising Mattos, the chef of Estela and the newly opened Café Altro
D O E S
(because you realize you’ve had it wrong) and thrilling: This Paradiso, both in New York. “I had the best orange juice that
is an egg, this is ham, this is bread. Rather, this is what egg, I’ve ever had there. I still remember it. It’s one of those things.
ham, and bread can taste like when a kitchen brimming How many do you drink in your life? I’m 36, and I wonder,
with skill and conidence decides to transform a mundane How did I never have an orange juice like this?”
if reliably satisfying dish into something so perfect you will According to Liz Prueitt, who started Tartine in San Fran-
measure all others against it. cisco with her husband, Chad Robertson, the food in Los
It wasn’t the only standout at Gjusta. What started of Angeles “hits that sweet spot of what’s creative and what’s
as a bakery when it opened in 2014 has evolved into a sun- unexpected, and it’s inspiring a lot of other chefs, whether
illed commissary that cures salmon and ferments hot sauces or not they cook that kind of cuisine. They’re utilizing in-
and roasts large cuts of beef. Marble counters, rough wood gredients that are familiar in unfamiliar ways, and it feels so
loors, skylights cut into the ceiling: It feels less like a kitchen healthy and delicious.” During a recent trip to Los Angeles,
than an atelier. The food comes across as healthy, but it’s Prueitt and Robertson went to Gjusta nearly every day. “You
more wholesome than dietetic. You can get a salad or a grain get the feeling that there’s somebody making food you want
bowl or granola with nut milk; you can also get a croissant to eat, and when they pull something out of the case they’re
or a porchetta melt or a beef-brisket banh mi on bread still going to replace it with something that’s just as delicious.”
warm from the oven. Travis Lett, who owns both Gjusta and It’s not as easy as it looks. “Simple is the hardest thing you
Gjelina, a more traditional restaurant a short drive away, can do,” Lett told me. “There is a lot you can accomplish
told me that Gjusta is like a Jewish deli and an Italian deli with plating or presentation in a restaurant that you just
under one roof, but he’s underselling the experience. It’s as can’t do here. You can’t hide C O N T I N U E D O N PA G E 2 8 9
if you took the best shops from your favorite market streets
L.A. STORY
in London, Paris, San Francisco, and Beirut, and packed
Dishes once seen only in the morning are now free to show
them into a whitewashed warehouse so close to the beach up whenever they please. It’s as if brunch has taken over the
you can smell the salt air. entire day. Pictured here: the classic omelet from Petit Trois.
268
I T
MOMENT OF THE MONTH
C H A M P I O N S
PUTTING
ON AIR
After releasing a
couple of attention-
grabbing mix tapes,
Houston-born rapper
Travis Scott debuted
his acclaimed album
Rodeo late last
year. Scott wears a
NikeLab x RT jacket
($225), T-shirt
($75), and shorts
($120); nike.com/
nikelab. Nike tights
and sneakers. Model
Joan Smalls wears
a NikeLab x RT
crop top ($110) and
2-in-1 shorts ($210);
nike.com/nikelab.
Givenchy by Riccardo
Tisci earrings and
shoes. Givenchy Haute
Couture by Riccardo
Tisci bangles. Details,
see In This Issue.
Fashion Editor:
Sara Moonves.
L E A G U E
A M I D O U R O N G O I N G L OV E A F FA I R W I T H S P O R T S — A N D B OA S T I N G
N E W C O L L A B O R AT I O N S W I T H R I C CA R D O T I S C I , K I M J O N E S ,
A N D J U N TA K A H A S H I — N I K E S T E P S U P I N T O FA S H I O N ’ S P R E M I E R S H I P.
BY R O B E R T S U L L I VA N . P H O T O G R A P H E D BY G R E G O RY H A R R I S .
n the beginning, sports and in Beaverton, a place where people work with sensor-draped
fashion were two worlds, athletes on treadmills in simulated Brazilian climates. (When
separately created by separate I was in the Nike Sport Research Lab, the sprinter Ryan
I gods. In 1964, when Bill Bow-

erman shook hands with Phil
Knight and set out on the road
to designing Nike’s now iconic
Bailey was running at what seemed close to the speed of light
while images of his body were being examined in a room
that looked as if it were supporting the power grid for L.A.)
It struck me that Nike designers were drastically more open
shoes with a waffle iron in a about their interest in fashion than on my visits in years past.
kitchen in Oregon (all func- “Do we geek out on Givenchy?” a designer who worked with
tion, very little form), Yves Tisci asked. “Yes.” But they still stress performance as their
Saint Laurent was on the verge of debuting a Mondrian core. “If there were a photo inish between performance and
A-line dress that was, conversely, designed not for speed or style, performance would win, but the two go hand in hand,”
stretching or any kind of performance aside from, say, a said Martin Lotti, Nike’s global creative director.
Merce Cunningham premiere. And yet fashion’s beneit to performance remains rel-
Sprint forward to today, when we are all faster, stronger, atively undocumented. “I remember talking to Maria
more flexible in terms of how we move, what we do, and Sharapova, and she was telling me that she will play better
when we do it. Which means that fashion and sports (and if she looks better—that is deinitely a common thread with
the streets that sports live on) have become one world, with athletes we work with,” said Lotti. (When I spoke with the
crossover gods. Today, a young designer like Shayne Oliver Olympic-champion decathlete Ashton Eaton recently, he
starts his career not at the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute seconded: “Feel is connected with physical. I very strongly
Couture, Saint Laurent’s alma mater, but by making T-shirts believe that if something in your mind feels lighter and
and sweatshirts for friends. Alexander Wang is showing neo- faster and makes you feel stronger, that placebo is not a
prene sweats. Rihanna is working with Puma, Kanye with negative thing; it’s a thing that works.”)
Adidas. And now the paradigm shift as Nike, the world’s One way to lure designers is with vintage Nikes. Jar-
top-seeded maker of clothing designed to help break world rett Reynolds, senior design director of NikeLab, talked
records, steps in to play in the world of ready-to-wear. Nike’s about fashion’s forever interest in shoes like the Air Force
designers haven’t just been hanging out in locker rooms. “We 1, which Tisci redid (his new-old model, the Dunk Lux
go to a lot of shows,” one of them told me. High, came out in February). That shoe’s icon status, Nike
Movement and speed and ease and functionality are now argues, came second. “We made a real-deal performance
intrinsic to so much that we wear, whether on the ield or product and the culture adopted it and made it an icon,”
in an Uber. Thus we have NikeLab, the place where Nike Reynolds said. Working on Air Force 1 was a dream for
designers work out with that fashion world. Up to now, the Tisci, afectionately referred to at Nike as a “sneakerhead.”
results have been on the gorgeous side: In her fall/holiday “If somebody asked you to work on the Sistine Chapel in
pieces for NikeLab (she did a spring/summer collection, Rome, you wouldn’t change it completely—you would just
too), Sacai’s Chitose Abe took company staples like Wind- modernize it, because it’s so beautiful,” he said.
runners and Tech Fleece and added sheer trapeze pleats For the new Summer of Sport collection, Nike flew
and proportions that made the pieces seem to ly. Now we to Paris, Tisci to Beaverton, where, in the gorgeous gym,
have three NikeLab collections (Summer of Sport, they’re he momentarily relived his childhood basketball career,
calling it) set to leave the gate to celebrate the Rio Olym- even if the shots he took did not relect his prowess as a
pics—in collaboration with Kim Jones, Jun Takahashi, and designer (“I hadn’t played in a long time,” he stressed). He
Riccardo Tisci. got pushed into performance aspects of the design. “We
These days, everybody wants to work out with a fashion made Riccardo uncomfortable,” Reynolds said. The end
designer. As Apple picked up people from Burberry, Saint result: shorts morphed with tights, kaleidoscopic color
Laurent, and Gap prior to launching its watch, so Nike prints that no Nike apparel designer would have dared
Women—the largest women’s athletic brand in the world, suggest, and botanical nods not only to Brazil but to his
currently weighing in at a valuation of $5.7 billion—is part- own upbringing in the south of Italy—all engineered into
nering with the fashion world with the goal of gaining about Nike’s best-selling sports bra. C O N T I N U E D O N PA G E 2 8 8
$5 billion in sales by 2020. And then there are the athletes,
who, in a crossover world, are rock stars. “Look,” says Tisci, GAME CHANGERS
“in the seventies and eighties, sporty people could wear only With a self-titled debut album that went straight to number one
and the honor of being the only artist to have his first four singles
sportswear, and artists had to look only dirty and under- simultaneously in the top ten, Fetty Wap has made himself a force
dressed. Today the world has changed, and these kids who to be reckoned with. Fetty wears a NikeLab x Kim Jones jacket
are heroes of sport want to look good—they want to bring ($275), T-shirt ($175), and pants ($225); nike.com/nikelab. Nike
zip-up sweater, $65; nike.com. Model Cameron Russell wears a
their own personality to the playground!”
NikeLab x Kim Jones top, $175; nike.com/nikelab. Louis Vuitton
To investigate the practicalities of Nike’s fashion partner- Bermuda shorts; select Louis Vuitton boutiques. In this story: hair,
ships, I took a trip out to the company’s world headquarters Didier Malige; makeup, Gucci Westman. Details, see In This Issue.
272
P RO DUC ED BY KAT E CO LLI N G S -
P OST FO R N ORT H SI X
MOMENT
OF
THE MONTH
What to Wear Where
TWO SHAKES
Run, don’t walk, to the
Rihanna: Anti World
Tour, stopping at the
Prudential Center in
Newark on April 2. On
Lily Aldridge (NEAR
RIGHT): Tory Sport
shag backpack, $425;
torysport.com. Ralph
Lauren Collection
jumpsuit, $2,990; select
Ralph Lauren stores.
Alix bikini top. Bulova
watch. On Gigi Hadid:
Chanel nylon-and-mesh
backpack, $2,600;
select Chanel boutiques.
3.1 Phillip Lim tank top,
$275; 3.1 Phillip Lim,
NYC. Sportmax pants,
$595; Sportmax, NYC.
Fashion Editor:
Tabitha Simmons.
L eade r s
of
the
Pa ck
It’s the season
of the bold,
brilliant, and
built-to-move
supersatchel.
Gigi Hadid and
Lily Aldridge
take the
brightest of the
bunch on an
energetic romp
for spring.
Photographed
by Patrick
Demarchelier.
CASING
THE PLACE
Power-lunch in vivid
white and crisp primary
colors at Covina, James
Beard Award winner
Tim Cushman’s new
restaurant, opening this
month in Manhattan’s
Park South Hotel. Dior
bag, $3,700; select Dior
boutiques. Lacoste dress,
$295; lacoste.com.
Bulgari watch.
BEAUTY NOTE
Makeup mishaps
shouldn’t slow you
down. Prevent melting
and fading with a light,
translucent mist of
Maybelline New York’s
Face Studio Master
Fix Setting Spray.
What to Wear Where
276
CROSSING
THE LINES
This refreshing
combination of
polo plus plaid is
the ultimate preppy
mix for the finals
at the Miami Open
tennis tourney in
Key Biscayne. Stella
McCartney striped
wicker bag ($1,750),
check knit bag,
polo shirt ($675),
and skirt ($1,595);
Stella McCartney,
NYC. Details, see
In This Issue.
BUCKET LIST
Silky comfort is
the name of the
game here—floaty
skirt, fuss-free top,
holdall bag. It’s a
throw-on-and-go
ensemble perfect
for a double feature
at the Tribeca Film
Festival. Sportmax
suede bag, $795;
Sportmax, NYC.
Victoria Beckham
tank top ($1,150)
and skirt ($2,190);
victoriabeckham
.com. Shinola watch.
AGL sneakers.
What to Wear Where
278
DANCING ON AIR
Reinvigorate the
shirtwaist look with
oversize sleeves and
contemporary fiery
accents—then grab
a wild cayenne–colored
tote and head out to
NYC’s Joyce Theater
to catch the visiting
Miami City Ballet.
Michael Kors Collection
drawstring bag, $2,990;
select Michael Kors
stores. Public School
jacket ($575) and shorts
($380). Jacket at (212)
302-1108. Shorts at
select Nordstrom stores.
Roger Vivier sneakers.
What to Wear Where
CIRCLE UP
Grommets and
pockets and chains,
oh my—this bag has
it all! Sling it over your
shoulder to take in
the Steve McQueen
exhibition at the
Whitney Museum
of American Art.
Versace suede
backpack ($2,995)
and jersey dress
($2,375); select
280 Versace boutiques.
Caeden bracelet.
ZIP CODES
The wonderfully
utilitarian fanny pack
gets a stylish makeover
in molten metallics and
heavy hardware. Pair
it with a graphic tee and
short shorts for a visit
to fitness-cult-favorite
the Class at Taryn
Toomey’s new studio
in Tribeca. Jimmy Choo
belted bag, $1,450;
select Saks Fifth Avenue
stores. Fendi backpack
($2,700) and backpack
charm; select Fendi
boutiques. Longchamp
top ($340) and
shorts ($195); select
Longchamp boutiques.
Bulgari watch. Details,
see In This Issue.
What to Wear Where
LINE ’EM UP
The jagged stripes on
this carryall pouch
(and the bloodred track
pants) fit the mood
for the Broadway
premiere of American
Psycho, starring
Benjamin Walker.
Kenzo snakeskin-print
leather tote bag, $710;
kenzo.com. Chloé
halter top ($950)
and pants ($1,295);
select Neiman Marcus
stores. Vince shoes.
FASHION
FORWARD
You’ll want to stay
conveniently hands-free
to salute the imminently
retiring Kobe Bryant
when the Lakers play
the Clippers at the
Staples Center in Los
Angeles on April 6. Louis
Vuitton backpack; select
Louis Vuitton boutiques.
Proenza Schouler
cropped crewneck top,
$890; Proenza Schouler,
NYC. BCBG Max Azria
shorts, $298; bcbg.com.
Shinola watch. In this
story: hair, Duffy;
makeup, Tom Pecheux.
Index
EDITOR: EMMA ELWICK-BATES
1
2
3
Dive
IN!
ROBIN. 4: COURTESY OF TYR SPORT. 5: COURTESY OF CH LOÉ. 6: COURTESY OF 1STD IBS.CO M.

1: COURTESY OF NIKE. 2: COURTESY OF BARNEYS NEW YORK. 3: COURTESY OF CHRISTOPHE
TEPEE: NICOLE BOUCHER. BREATHE INN, LANESVILLE, NY. DETAILS, SEE IN THIS ISSUE.
Get ready to take the plunge into
the adventure and romance of
freshwater swimming—the appeal,
you’ll soon find, is crystal clear.
5
4
Cool Off
Hit “refresh” in these
winning lakeside locations.
Lake Placid, NEW YORK
Nestled in the woodlands of the
Adirondacks is an aquatic oasis
for swimming, kayaking, waterskiing,
and the like.
WHERE TO STAY: Lake Placid Lodge
Lake Tahoe, CALIFORNIA
The best views of this paradise
on the California-Nevada border
are from the cobalt-blue water.
WHERE TO STAY: Basecamp Hotel
Lake Champlain, VERMONT
Paddle out to one of Lake
Champlain’s approximately 80 islands
for a sun-soaked day of fun.
WHERE TO STAY: Basin Harbor Club
Echo Lake, MAINE
Don’t be fooled by its northern
exposure: Echo Lake Beach’s
shallow depths mean warm
swimming well into the evening.
WHERE TO STAY: The Claremont
Lake Powell, UTAH
Hike, camp, and climb the red rocks 6
in southern Utah’s canyons,
ending with a dip in Lake Powell—
think dramatic desert without
the dryness.
WHERE TO STAY: Amangiri
8
1. Nike swim cap, $14;

academy.com.
2. Flagpole Swim rash-guard
swimsuit, $450; Barneys
New York, NYC.
3. Christophe Robin
Cleansing Purifying Scrub
with Sea Salt, $52;
sephora.com.
4. TYR Sport goggles,
12: COURTESY OF CRATE & BAR R EL. 13: GOR MAN STUD IO. CLIFF: CARTER SMITH .
$20; tyr.com.
PRISM. 10: COURTESY OF SANBORN CANOE CO. 11: COURTESY OF ZEUS+DIONE.
7: COURTESY OF HERMÈS. 8: COURTESY OF BOTTEGA VENETA. 9: COURTESY OF
5. Chloé sandal, $865;

Just One Eye, L.A.
P R ES L EY A N D K A I A G E R B E R , VO GU E , 20 15. D ETAILS, SEE IN TH IS ISSUE.
6. Robert Mallet-Stevens
folding chairs; 1stdibs.com.
7. Hermès beach throw,
$540; hermes.com.
8. Bottega Veneta bag;
(800) 845-6790.
9. Prism sunglasses,
$408; prismlondon.com.
10. Sanborn Canoe Co.
paddles, $180 each;
domesticdomestic.com.
11. Zeus+Dione swimsuit,
7 $179; zeusndione.com.
12. Crate & Barrel
picnic cooler, $70;
crateandbarrel.com.
13. AGL sandal, $397; agl.com.
11
12
10
C H EC K O U T VO G U E . C O M FO R 13
M O R E S H O P PA B L E L O O K S
LOVE AND GRIEF again,” Andy said, tearing up and they pleased. Grandma’s meal of
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 126 laughing at once. Weeks later we choice was a large piece of cow liver
and stung my throat. But I left it alone. found out that the twins were boys. topped with raw bean sprouts, while
It’s still his password. For a long time, Andy vowed that Papa’s was grape-juice concentrate
he would never remarry, certainly from the can. Besides my aunt’s col-
After our wedding, I moved to Ge- never have children—the vulnerabil- lege roommate, Carol, who’d come
neva to live with Andy. Throughout ity that kind of attachment brings for a visit 20 years ago and never
our apartment, framed photos of terrified him. Today, he wonders at left, there were always other people
Laurence, Evan, and Baptiste mingle the contradictions in a world that around—my two uncles who still
with others of us. Their names come can include both an earthquake and lived and worked on the property and
up in regular conversation. His past the improbable conception of twin their girlfriends or children, the vari-
is always there, but it doesn’t get in the boys. Andy says he has reconciled his ous inhabitants of the tenant houses,
way of our future. powerlessness, his lack of control, not the young men helping to construct
We were cautious leading up to the only over history and calamity, but the fish pond or rice paddy, family
five-year anniversary of the earth- also over loving again. friends like the art appraiser up from
quake. Andy still hadn’t done any- Andy’s family has said that there Boston or the tiny Austrian spy. The
thing with his family’s ashes, wanting was a time they didn’t know whether table was piled high with food; when
to include Laurence’s parents and the old Andy would ever reappear. the door was left open, the chickens
sister in any decision he ultimately But these days he’ll stop himself when wandered in.
made, but he felt an obligation and a we’re on a walk, or while we’re feed- (In 2001, when the family could no
desire to commemorate the day. And ing the boys on the couch, surprised longer aford to keep it, Cherry Hill
so together we took the three big urns by joy—by the happiness he thought was sold to a wealthy young banker,
down from the shelf, scooped out a he’d never experience again. “I think who uses it as his summer residence
handful of ashes from each, placed about how much I lost,” he said to me today. Needless to say, it has been
them into separate containers, and recently, with something close to awe substantially cleared out and re-
carried them to the Arve River. The in his voice. “But I also think about modeled. I have yet to see it in this
mundanity of the act—we used small how much I have.” state—though the new owner is ame-
plastic Ikea bins, which I later washed nable to giving tours for our family
in the dishwasher next to our dirty HOUSE OF MIRTH members—yet what it’s lost in ec-
plates and forks—was surpassed by CONTINUED FROM PAGE 134 centricity it has apparently retained
its quiet signiicance. Andy took the watercolors, Whistler paintings, Vic- in allure. My nine-year-old nephew
containers out of his pocket one by torian lamps and Oriental screens, recently returned from one of these
one, emptied them slowly, and we little velvet boxes stufed with human tours, bug-eyed, and constructed a
watched the river take the ashes away. hair. I spent hours up there picking Minecraft version of what he called
Two days earlier we had found out through clothes—wool skirts, velvet- “the mansion,” which he eagerly
that I was pregnant. As the ashes and-brocade dresses, hunting jackets, walked me through.)
mingled with the water, turning the ball gowns—and sneaking down to my Little by little, my shakiness dwin-
stones underneath a foggy gray, we room to try them on. dled. The house ofered much, yet it
knew that the future held life. At the b eg i n n i ng, I d re ade d also requested things. Like Sally, I
I used to feel that my friends with meals—but when I realized that no took it upon myself to clean up the
children could identify with Andy’s one seemed to think it strange that kitchen nightly; I weeded the clay ten-
loss in a way I couldn’t. I never knew I wasn’t speaking, or that I was nis court. I recovered my former ath-
what it was like to have children, to clutching my chair so I wouldn’t fall, letic prowess by learning to ride my
love something that much and then to I gradually began to look forward uncle Nick’s unicycle back and forth
imagine it taken from me. Now that to them. Except for formal dinners, down the hallway from the kitchen to
I was pregnant, already beginning to we ate in the kitchen. The walls were the library.
feel my own protective instincts, I’d painted eggshell blue, the ceiling Gradually I even began to talk,
find myself staring at him, my hus- covered with silver wrapping paper. little by little, to Grandma in the
band, amazed all over again by what Grandma, who wore her dark hair kitchen. Having relaunched my ap-
he has lived through. in a bob—in her youth, she had been prenticeship, I was reading The Por-
About a week after we found out I known as a beauty—sat at one end trait of a Lady, and she told me about
was pregnant, Andy held my hand at of the table and Papa, my grandfa- reading Henry James aloud to her
our irst checkup. As the Swiss doc- ther, at the other. Each of them wore a 100-year-old mother and how, when
tor examined me, he paused. “Oh,” daily uniform, Papa black pants and they got to his late style, “the sentenc-
he said. I flinched—was something a white button-down shirt, Grandma es so impossibly complicated,” she
wrong? a denim skirt and a lavender or blue feared that her mother would believe
“Twins,” he said. “You are having blouse that functioned as her garden that she had inally and deinitively
two.” clothes. While something delicious lost her mind.
We stared at the black-and-white had always been prepared—roast She recounted scenes from her
screen in front of us, at the two little lamb with mint sauce and wild rice, a childhood abroad—her father was
blobs with barely recognizable heads. slab of salmon, cornmeal pancakes— a well-respected artist who traveled
“I’m going to have two children everyone was also free to eat what Europe collecting works for Boston’s

Museum of Fine Arts—and her are from the nineties,” she says, citing filled with sprints, squatting, and
honeymoon out West with Papa; she fellow glamazons Naomi Campbell single-leg jumps, have a cultlike fol-
talked of her gardening plans, her and Cindy Crawford, as well as Mary lowing among Bay Area ballet danc-
home-improvement projects (“I’ve J. Blige, Lil’ Kim, Gwen Stefani, Jean ers and boxers. “Balance is ground
decided that my closet needs to be Paul Gaultier, and John Galliano. zero for all movement,” adds Randy
cleared out every 45 years, and that’s “Everybody was just so fearless.” Humola, manager of Gotham Gym
now”). We made pilgrimages outside The room grows loud, and Rihanna in New York.
to see the things she’d planted—the shushes a group that happens to in- Researchers from Johns Hopkins
katsura at the wood’s edge, the pink clude Campbell. (Who else can shush University School of Medicine re-
dogwood out by the curve in the drive Naomi Campbell?) ported several years ago that nearly
that “seemed to have died in despair” Puma has already seen its fourth- 20 percent of people in their 40s can’t
because of the drought (“They have quarter sales rise from Rihanna’s stand completely still on a lat foam
shallow roots,” Grandma said) but involvement with the brand, which surface with their eyes closed for 30
that, thanks to bucket after bucket bodes well for her other collabora- seconds—a classic test of balance.
of water, was now reviving. One eve- tions, including one with Christian Much of the blame lies in our ainity
ning, in the latter part of my stay, Dior on a line of sunglasses this for the chair, seat of a multitude of
Grandma took me to see Shakespeare spring. Last year, Rihanna also be- modern woes. “When you’re sitting,
& Company’s outdoor performance came the first black face of Dior, a you’re not engaging your core, and
of A Midsummer Night’s Dream at the distinction that was initially lost on those muscles, along with the ones
Mount. We sat on the grass, a picnic her, so caught up was she with “the in your ankles and lower legs, are
between us, and watched as the band Dior aspect.” “I was already proud what keep you upright and stable,”
of fairies came creeping toward us to be a Dior woman, but to be a says Helen Bronte-Stewart, M.D., a
through the trees. black Dior woman and the first: It neurologist and former dancer, who
Several months passed. I could did something else for me.” directs the Stanford Human Motor
easily have lingered, as had so many In her quest for world domination, Control and Balance Laboratory at
others, but it felt like the right time to Rihanna will no doubt keep upending the School of Medicine.
be going on my way. But not before outdated norms. It’s not a coincidence Balance begins deteriorating in
hearing, as I came down the stairs, that so many of her Puma designs are your 30s, even among many fitness
Grandma sitting at her writing desk unisex. “I always wanted to do what devotees; for instance, running—my
murmuring something into the phone my brothers were doing,” she says. “I daily cardio—does little to bolster
to my mother. (The two had been in always wanted to play the games they the muscles that confer steadiness.
close touch over the course of my stay.) played and play rough and wear pants As your balance declines, so, too, do
“She seems all right to me,” she and go outside.” She still wants to. your inesse, grace, and coordination.
said. It was just what I needed as a “Women feel empowered when they Research shows that balance train-
benediction. can do the things that are supposed to ing can prevent injuries, especially
be only for men, you know?” she says. among those who, like me, grapple
WORKING IT “It breaks boundaries, it’s liberating, with recurring ankle-ligament prob-
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 234 and it’s empowering when you feel lems. It also tones muscles (espe-
the paradigm has shifted. . . . Lil Sis like, Well, I can do that, too.” cially the core), keeps us agile, and
kiiiiiiiilled this shit!!!!!!!” improves posture.
Backstage, Rihan na and her TIPPING THE BALANCE My own concerns began last fall in
team—a tight-knit group with whom CONTINUED FROM PAGE 265 Barneys’ shoe department. I spotted
she travels everywhere, including you have to be precise in every move- a pair of suede Isabel Marant booties
Forde, Rosales, and Ciarra Pardo, ment,” she says. “It requires intense with a sculpted four-inch heel, per-
her creative director of ten years and concentration and focus. I’ve learned fect for a spate of upcoming events
the head of her production company, to trust my balance. But I work at it.” on my calendar. But when I zipped
also called Fenty—are celebrating. The pursuit of better balance is the boots and stood, I felt unsteady—
Rihanna leaps from a couch and one that has taken hold of the itness like a sixteen-year-old in her irst pair
envelops me in a warm hug. Cham- world as well, from Miami Beach of stilettos. It’s been a while. You’ve
pagne is flowing. Pardo crosses the health club Anatomy at 1220’s new been living in your Marsèll oxfords,
room to embrace Rihanna. “You steel-mace weight-training classes I told myself. You’re just out of the
killed it!” she says. “Didn’t they kill to the increasingly popular nimble heels habit. I took a few careful steps,
it?” Rihanna says, delecting credit to combat sports like Muay Thai and and even then my left ankle nearly
the models. “How do you feel?” I ask. boxing. “Workouts that have you collapsed outward, a close call that
“I feel like I’m loating right now,” she moving dynamically through dif- brought to mind a series of sooner-
says. “I feel elated.” ferent planes will help with stabil- forgotten incidents: stumbling and
I ask her about her inspirations ity—and that’s the new frontier,” spilling Cabernet (my first glass, I
for the show, which include Japanese says Lisa Giannone, rehabilitation swear) on a friend’s new upholstery.
street culture (“Every time I go to Ja- and conditioning specialist for the Reaching for the wall to steady my-
pan, it’s like, ‘Wow’ ”) and nineties San Francisco Ballet and founder of self while pulling on a pair of skinny
music and fashion. “All my favorite the Garage itness studio, whose fast- pants. What had happened to my bal-
artists and fashion icons and models paced Hammer and Gravity classes, ance? I C O N T I N U E D O N PA G E 2 8 8

287
was raised on gymnastics and ballet. unusually keen vestibular system, By the time I’m sitting in Bronte-
I ski, I surf. I would not be laid low by the labyrinthine arrangement in the Stewart’s office at Stanford, where
a pair of party shoes! inner ear that monitors the position I’ve come for a reassessment, I’ve
First things irst: I needed to know and movement of your head—and been maxing out on tree poses and
how of-kilter I really was. For that, plays a critical role in balance. Hold- holding planks for up to two minutes
I visited Aaron Sparks, a biomecha- ing oneself steady requires a complex for nearly three months. It’s been
nist at the University of California coordination among the vestibular weeks since I’ve slipped, stumbled,
San Francisco’s Human Performance system and two other factors: pro- or bumped into a doorway. During
Center, and a balance fanatic who prioceptors, which are the GPS-like the half-hour analysis (Stanford em-
can stand for full minutes on a stabil- sensors in your muscles, joints and ploys a more sophisticated system
ity ball without wavering. He put me tendons that send the brain up-to- than the Y balance test), I stand on
through a standard physical-therapy the-millisecond information about a movable metal plate that measures
screening tool, the Y balance test: your body’s relative position (they’re the slightest shift of my feet or sway
While standing on my left leg, arms at the reason you know your ankle is of my body, while the lab assistant
my side, I slid my right foot along the starting to roll, even though you’re puts me through a series of tests—
ground as far as I could to the front, not looking at your feet), and vision, standing on the plate while it moves
side and behind me, then repeated the which plays a surprisingly important forward and backward and side to
process on the left side. Sparks pro- role, as any yogini who tries to close side, sometimes with my eyes closed,
nounced me “average, maybe slightly her eyes in tree pose knows. sometimes open. I feel stable—and I
above” and sent me on my way with Balance, like most motor skills, am. Overall I score higher than peo-
this advice: “Strengthen your core is about 50 percent genetic, so I can ple with normal balance.
with planks and side planks and re- partly blame my parents for my me- The next day in yoga, while twist-
place your desk chair with a stability diocre ability. “But almost every- ing into eagle pose, I totter and have
ball.” To stabilize the muscles around one can improve significantly with to put my foot down. Really? I think
my knees and ankles, he suggested practice,” says Daniel Ferris, Ph.D., with a spike of irritation. Then I re-
single-leg squats. director of the Human Neurome- member something Biles told me: “A
Seeking reassurance (average is a chanics Laboratory at the Univer- loss of balance is really a loss of focus.
tough adjective to swallow), I called sity of Michigan. “From the time you When you’re doing something that
Daniel Merfeld, Ph.D., professor of start losing your balance,” he says, requires lots of balance, you have to
otology at Harvard Medical School “you have up to one second to catch concentrate. I can be clumsy outside
and director of the Jenks Vestibular yourself.” He knows this because he the gym, too.”
Physiology Laboratory, and asked has covered study subjects’ scalps
him to elucidate the challenge of with electrodes and had them walk MOMENT OF THE MONTH
balance. “It’s like setting the tip of on balance beams mounted to tread- CONTINUED FROM PAGE 272
a broom handle on the palm of your mills to see what happens when we “He pushed us to a place where
open hand and trying to keep it up- begin to fall. Healthy young adults, we wouldn’t have had the conidence
right,” he said. The human body, he he learned, typically react in about to go on our own,” Reynolds said.
explained, is actually like six of those 400 milliseconds; older people may Tisci also pushed them to a place
unstable witch’s brooms (our weighty take an additional 150 milliseconds where gender lines were blurry,
heads balance on slender necks, our more—a micro-lag that can mean where male and female pieces are
hips and thighs teeter atop narrow the difference between getting on interchangeable—something you
knees, et cetera)—all stacked on a with your day and winding up in the see a lot of when sportswear is on
single pair of feet. Small wonder ex- ER. In other words, balance isn’t just the street. “The walls between him
perts drive home the importance of about strength; I need to be quick, and her were less important,” said
a strong core. too. The most effective way to keep Reynolds.
So how does Biles work on hers? “I one’s reaction time sharp, says Ferris: The designer Jun Takahashi runs
do 30 minutes of abs every day,” she Do activities that throw the body of close to 20 miles a week dressed, he
says. Her favorite technique: rolling balance, and force it to recover, over says, “head to toe” in the pieces he’s
across the floor from back to front and over again. been collaborating on with NikeLab
and front to back with her arms and Thus, the BOSU ball, the precari- since 2010, a highly technical and
legs off the ground at all times. “It ous perch on which I now strength sharply cut layered collection called
strengthens your back muscles, and train. I began by standing on it with Gyakusou (translation: “running in
people often neglect that part of their two feet for a few minutes at a time, reverse”). “We usually start by say-
core,” says her longtime coach, Ai- then the next day added arm exer- ing, ‘OK, Jun, what’s been happen-
mee Boorman. “Simone trains hard, cises. After several weeks, I have ing with your running?’ ” explained
but she also has uncanny air aware- upped the ante by doing upper-body Reynolds. If you replaced the terms
ness. She can judge where she is in re- strength training on one foot—far art and beauty in the definition of
lation to the ground, even when she’s more diicult. I bolster all the work couture with design that gorgeously
upside down. Some things you just I’m doing by sprinkling balance chal- frames and assists the performance
can’t teach.” lenges throughout my day—standing of the body, then Gyakusou would
Biles, according to Harvard’s on one leg and closing my eyes while I be couture. Takahashi’s own ready-
Merfeld, has been blessed with an brush my teeth, for instance. to-wear collection, Undercover,

has always included functional ele- from Victorian-looking dresses to a number of them became social hubs
ments, raising the question, What is male look when she deconstructed for the counterculture: You went to
the difference between sportswear the jacket,” he said. “What I’m doing Ben Frank’s on the Sunset Strip or
and ready-to-wear out in the ield? “I today, she did already in her time. I to Ships in Westwood or to Canter’s
think we’re seeing very little differ- think she would be like, ‘Go, Riccar- in the Fairfax District, a Jewish deli
ence between the two on the streets,” do, go!’ I think she would be a sup- that Frank Zappa once called “the
he says. porter.” Top Freako Watering Hole and Social
When I finally caught up with HQ.” Ben Frank’s was sold, and Ships
Kim Jones, the Vuitton men’s style EASY DOES IT was razed, but the freakos still go to
director, he had just taken a plane CONTINUED FROM PAGE 268 Canter’s to feed their appetites with a
to a plane to another plane, each behind the facade of ine dining.” Lett burger and fries for breakfast.
one smaller, until it let him out in a is 37, but he seems ten years younger: Trois Familia, the latest venture
southern coastal forest in Vietnam, Bearded, with a tangle of sun-streaked from Ludo Lefebvre (of Trois Mec)
track-suited and trainered-up. (The hair pulled back in a ponytail, he has and Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook
NikeLab team had pegged him years the calm manner and messy charm (of Animal), has taken that idea and
before as a sneakerhead.) “He knows of a professional skateboarder or a turned it into a founding principle.
tech, and he’s been part of street cul- successful designer or the handsome There’s only one menu all day long
ture forever, so he spoke the language barista behind the counter. Still, he’s (right now, Trois Familia closes at
of Nike culture,” said Reynolds. For as driven and focused as the chef of a 3:00 p.m., although you can book
his collaborations, Jones was shown ine-dining restaurant. His food is café the restaurant for a private party
the Windrunner, a 1978 Nike piece fare treated with a near-religious rever- at night), and it’s a counterintuitive
that quickly crossed over from mar- ence and served on a battered pewter mash-up of Mexican food and clas-
athoning to New York City break- plate you can take over to one of the sic French cooking that sounds like
dancers in the eighties. Jones was lea-market tables on the back patio. a stoner’s wish list but can be daz-
also shown technical data—along Gjusta’s croque madame is on the zling on the plate. Buckwheat crepe
the lines of charts by Nike’s research breakfast menu, which is something with chorizo and avocado crema;
lab that indicated where a runner is of a feint, given that the breakfast tres leches cake that looks like a sad
hot, where not. “It’s no use to outcool menu is offered all day long. This supermarket confection you eat in
them,” Reynolds said. “You have to is the other thing happening in Los spite of yourself but that’s actually as
outnerd them.” Angeles: The categories that most elegant and light as a baba au rhum.
Jones approached athlete perfor- Americans use to sort out which Ever since Trois Familia opened in a
mance from the vantage of travel—a dish goes where—breakfast, lunch, dumpy strip mall in Silver Lake last
silver in South America one day, a dinner—are disappearing. Restau- October, the wait to get a seat at one
gold in Europe the next—something rants that were once in the business of of the glossy white picnic tables inside
he knows in his bones as the son of a delaying gratiication will now fulill has been measured in hours.
globe-traveling geologist. In the end, your desires right away. If you want It’s time well spent if you order the
Jones collaborated on jackets that steak for breakfast, you can go, at duck confit, which is as traditional
are, among other things, nearly seam- eight o’clock in the morning, to the as you will find, served in a shallow
less engineering marvels of packing counter at Eggslut in the revitalized bowl with mint and cilantro and leche
performance, perfect to work out 99-year-old Grand Central Market de tigre (the citric marinade you use
in, perfect to pack, perfect to run in Downtown, and order a seared for ceviche)—a weird and wonder-
in—and vaguely secret agent–like. wagyu–and–egg sandwich with chi- ful companion. Every bite is a play
“It really gets down to almost zero michurri; you can also get a bacon, between the rich, meaty duck and the
when you fold it in your bag,” he says. egg, and cheese sandwich for a late sharp, sweet, ginger-tinged broth. Or
(When we spoke he was headed out lunch. You can get char siu pork roti if you get the beet tartare tostada,
to see his irst extremely endangered with wilted bok choy for breakfast at which is a play on one of the great
black-shanked douc langur in the the Paramount Cofee Project in the dishes at l’Arpège, the gastronomic
Ninh Thuan province. “There’s only Fairfax District, or cashew-nut yo- temple in Paris where Lefebvre once
about 600 of them left in Vietnam, and gurt with fresh fruit and house-made worked. “The beets are cooked in salt,
they are called the painted monkey— granola for dinner. It’s as if brunch and then it’s a classic mayonnaise with
and they are the most beautiful mon- took over the entire day, and dishes olive oil, egg yolk, and a touch of mus-
key in the world,” said Jones.) once seen only at nine at night are tard, then some dried chile and lime,”
All the designers sounded ready now free to show up at nine in the Lefebvre said, explaining why a dish
to burst out of the gates to fashion morning or four in the afternoon or that doesn’t look like much—a salad
new sport—and vice versa. Tisci, for whenever the creative class that gives piled on a crisp tortilla—has such
one, thinks his fashion idols would Los Angeles its edge feels like it’s time depth and complexity. Essentially,
approve. Thoug h he never met to eat. it’s haute cuisine with the windows
Coco Chanel, he inds her a simpa- This approach to dining isn’t en- open and the top down and the stereo
tico spirit when it comes to break- tirely new. As in many other cities, turned way up. “Really this is French
ing down the differences between a number of all-night L.A. diners food and technique with ingredients
events and categories. “She was one opened in the irst half of the twenti- and lavors from Mexico,” Lefebvre
of the first people to bring women eth century. In the 1960s and 1970s, a said. C O N T I N U E D O N PA G E 2 9 0

289
“I’m not going to make the perfect about Los Angeles, such as produce “Besides, it’s easy to park. I go, I
mole—I’m not going to compete with so consistent and excellent that it’s have my parking place, and I have
the Mexican restaurants. But I can almost unfair, but also what is vul- my cleaner and I get my chef’s jacket;
take the duck and make it more color- gar, such as the strip mall, a cheap I have my doughnut store. For me it’s
ful, more California.” and unimaginative building type fantastic. For me it’s L.A.”
Lefebvre could have been talking that ages poorly and that, like it or The current moment in Los An-
about himself. Tanned, handsome, not, is one of the deining examples geles food can be traced back to
tattooed, the 44-year-old is a TV per- of local vernacular architecture. “I October 2012, when Jessica Koslow
sonality, one of the stars of ABC’s re- love a strip mall,” said Lefebvre. “A opened Sqirl on an unfashionable
cent cooking competition The Taste. restaurant is a business. I really want stretch of North Virgil Avenue in
He followed a traditional path at irst to be accessible to people, and a strip East Hollywood. Other like-minded
and started cooking at fourteen in his mall can have the best location and restaurants were already scattered
native Burgundy before earning posi- not be too expensive.” In fact, all around the city, but it was as if the
tions in the Michelin-starred kitchens three of his restaurants are in strip kombucha-fueled conversations the
of Pierre Gagnaire and Alain Passard. malls, including the bistro Petit Trois, cooks and tastemakers were holding
In a sense he is a part of the tradition of where the omelet is so delicate and at the time—that you should build a
cultured Europeans who set up shop in custard-like that it only just holds menu around what you want to eat
Southern California—Thomas Mann together (the French term is baveuse, instead of hewing to convention—
had a house in Paciic Palisades; Igor which means “drooling”—the eggs solidified into an ideology when
Stravinsky lived in the Hollywood should be moist but irm, on the cusp Koslow posted her first breakfast
Hills—and found the messy, sun- of wet). “You have strip malls every- menu, which had only a few items.
streaked sprawl to be liberating. where, and all the amazing Japanese One was toasted brioche with a fried
You ind that freedom only if you restaurants with the best chefs are in egg, tomatillo puree, and hot sauce;
embrace not only what is alluring the strip malls,” Lefebvre continued. another was brown rice porridge with
in this issue Ronan: Dress, $2,490;

carolinaherrera.com.
Tacori earrings ($420) and
ring ($640); tacori.com.
amazon.com. 224–225:
Cuf, $350; alyssanorton
.com. Belt, $495; select
Michael Kors stores.
umishoes.com. On
Coster-Waldau: Sweater,
$78; jcrew.com. T-shirt,
$80; Barneys New York,
Paula Cademartori boots, On Coster-Waldau: NYC. Havaianas lip-lops,
Contents 64: Top, $990; (priced upon request); $1,375; 10corsocomo Polo shirt, $90; Brooks $18; havaianas.com.
By George, Austin, TX. sandro-paris.com. .com. 212: Journals, $55 Brothers stores. Trousers, Ehang 184 Autonomous
Skirt, $990; (312) 587- Givenchy by Riccardo each; adriennewong.com. $435; burberry.com. Aerial Vehicle; price upon
1000 for information. Tisci sneakers, $495; PlayStation VR; request; ehang.com.
Shoes, price upon request; neimanmarcus.com. TOMORROWLAND playstation.com. Double In this story, manicure,
select Prada boutiques. Görner: Painting Gallery, 217: Stella McCartney Robotics Double 2 Alexandra Jachno.
Cover look 72: Dress, Berlin. Paintings: Right: sandals, $845; Stella Telepresence Robot,
price upon request; Tom The Capitulars from McCartney, NYC, (212) $3,000; doublerobotics WORKING IT
Ford, NYC. Editor’s letter Utrecht, 1544, Anthonis 255-1556. 218–219: .com. 226: WowWee 230–231: Dress,
80: On Rihanna: Dress, Mor. Left: Portrait of an Watch, $6,550; Cartier CHiP robot dog ($199) $10,000; select Ralph
price upon request; Saint Apostle, 1618, Anton van boutiques. On Abraham: and MiPosaur robot Lauren stores. Single-row
Laurent, NYC, (212) Dyck. Background: Saint Shirt, $45; vineyardvines dinosaur ($99). Robot diamond ear cuf ($1,025)
980-2970. Contributors Sebastian, 1618, Peter Paul .com. Shorts, $145; dog at chipk9.com. Robot and double-row diamond
120: On Fanning: Top Rubens. 170: Crocodile- Bonpoint, NYC, (212) dinosaur at wowwee ear cuf ($2,050); anitako
($300) and pants ($325); skin bag, $11,600. 879-0900. On Ava: Dress, .com. 227: Ring, $550; .com. 232: Dress, price
needsupply.com. Flash 174: Loewe Marquetry $245; oscardelarenta sophiebuhai.com. On upon request; givenchy
136: Dress, $8,500; wardrobe and chair .com. On Coster-Waldau: Coster-Waldau: Jeans, .com. 235: Bralette, price
gucci.com. Alexis Bittar (priced upon request), T-shirt, $80; Barneys New $210; rag-bone.com. upon request; marchesa
ring, $275; Alexis Bittar and notebook ($323); York, NYC. 220: On Ava: J.Crew belt, $68; jcrew .com. In this story,
boutiques. View 166: Loewe, Miami. Beauty Jumper ($32), shirt ($22), .com. Sky planters, manicure, Maria Salandra.
Charlotte Chesnais ring, 194: Dress, $3,695; Calvin socks ($13 for three), and $59 each; boskke.com.
$570; Dover Street Market Klein Collection, NYC. Pearl shoes ($39); landsend Samsung Family Hub WELCOME TO THE
New York. Maison Margiela earrings, $375; tifany .com. On Coster-Waldau: refrigerator; samsung JUNGLE
Line 12 Fine Jewellery .com. Repossi 18K-gold Swim trunks, $130: .com. 228–229: 236–237: Dress,
Collection 18K-gold two- ring, $3,500; Barneys solidandstriped Choker, $2,045; $19,000; select Gucci
inger ring ($1,300) and New York, NYC. Manicure, .com. 221: Ring, $2,200; jenniferisherjewelry.com. boutiques. Marc Jacobs
18K–white gold two-inger Jin Soon Choi for JINsoon. Bulgari boutiques. Bag, $15,500; Hermès shoes, $7,100; select
ring ($1,400); Maison PATA 209: On Whishaw: Sandals, $795; Fendi, boutiques. Shoes, $995; Marc Jacobs stores. 238:
Margiela boutiques. Coat, $3,300; select Gucci NYC, (212) 897-2244. Stella McCartney, NYC, Post earrings, price upon
Isabel Marant sandals, boutiques. Ami sweater, 222–223: Earrings, $475; (212) 255-1556. On request; givenchy.com.
$585; Isabel Marant, San $270; mrporter annelisemichelson.com. Abraham: Shirt ($22) and Drop earring ($225) and
Francisco. 168: On van der .com. Raf Simons pants, Glass Water Bottle with pants ($32); landsend glass-crystal dress clip
Kemp: Sweater and pants $542; rafsimons.com. On Fruit Iceball Maker, $26; .com. Umi shoes, $70; ($295); Lulu Frost, NYC.

sorrel pesto, preserved lemon, blis- ice skater—her mother, a derma- she knew she had to have a pancake,
tered tomatoes, and a poached egg. tologist, was determined to keep her she decided to make it out of buck-
The menu sent a message. If you out of the sun. She still has her fair wheat and cactus flour and bake it
wanted eggs Benedict or French skin. Now she’s either on the line and in a cast-iron skillet so that it would
toast, you were free to go to any of running her kitchen or making the be grainy, tart, and lufy. (It’s also
the hundreds of establishments that jams that irst gave her a reputation gluten-free, which is always appreci-
would take your money. But if you at Sqirl Away, the take-out spot she’s ated in Los Angeles.)
were craving something savory and planning to open next door. It is exhausting to work this hard.
illing and a little weird, you now had Sqirl doesn’t have customers as Gjusta, Trois Familia, and Sqirl
a home with the gastronomic freakos. much as a clientele, a devoted group could get by with half as many dishes,
Since then the menu has grown— that wants to be challenged. They made with ingredients half as com-
to 50 or so items, including the baked go back for their favorites, but they plicated. These and other establish-
goods—as have the crowds, which also go back to see what’s new. Fried ments are bursting with ideas that the
mob the restaurant every morning egg with creamed spinach and on- chefs and line cooks around the world
during the week. “It’s so satisfying to ion jam; whiteish and crispy trout are aching to develop, reine, and get
know that I’m not screaming into the skin with crème fraîche and pureed on the menu. Restaurants are busi-
wind,” Koslow told me. “I opened acorn squash on toast: The dishes nesses and need to make money, but
a place that’s misspelled, that’s a are so strange that they come close the new breed of Los Angeles restau-
hole in the wall in the middle of Vir- to satire, but the lavors are so engag- rant seems to be driven by a creative
gil Avenue, and that has a kind of ing that they make other breakfasts impulse so strong that it comes close
food that’s definable and undefin- seem as original as a box of Eggos. to being an art project.
able, that’s familiar and unfamiliar.” “I’m not afraid of change and think- “Do I have the energy to pull this
Koslow grew up in Long Beach, Cali- ing that there’s something better,” of?” Koslow asked rhetorically. “The
fornia, where she was a competitive Koslow said, explaining that when answer is, right now I do.”
Hand-shaped brooch, request. 248–249: Dress, TIPPING THE BALANCE at Givenchy, NYC. agl.com. 279: Sneakers,
$410; Sonia Rykiel, NYC. price upon request. 264–265: Leotard; Shoes at givenchy.com. $1,325; Roger Vivier,
GUA RA N T EE TH E AUT HE N TI CI T Y O F ME RC HA N D IS E SOLD BY D I SCOU N TE RS. AS I S ALWAYS TH E CASE IN PURCH ASING AN ITEM FROM
A WORD ABOUT DISCOUNTERS W H I LE VO GU E TH OROUG HLY RESE A RCHES T HE COMPANIES MENTIONED IN ITS PAGES, WE CANNOT
Bird-shaped pin, $270; In this story, Las Pozas, similar styles at Bangles, priced upon NYC. 280: Bracelet,
miriamhaskell.com. Xilitla with Fundación gkelite.com. request; givenchy.com. $199; caeden.com.
273: Shorts, price upon 281: Backpack charm,
A N YW H ERE OT HE R T HA N T HE AU T HO RI ZE D STOR E , T HE BUYE R TA KES A RI S K A ND SH OULD USE CAUTION WH EN D OING SO.
Gloves, $320; Pedro y Elena Hernández,

gaspargloves.com. A.C.; laspozasxilitla.com. MONEY FOR NOTHING request; select Louis $1,400. Watch, $9,200;
239: Cufs, $2,050 each; mx, pedroyelena.org. 266–267: On Danes: Vuitton boutiques. Bulgari boutiques.
select Chanel boutiques. Alligator-skin coat, Roxanne Assoulin x Baja 282: Sneakers, $295;
240–241: Belt, $1,775; KICK OFF $95,000; altuzarra East bracelets, $90 each; neimanmarcus.com.
select Chanel boutiques. 254–255: On Bowles: .com. On Krasinski: Suit, amazon.com/bajaeast. 283: Backpack, price
Heels, $1,290; Tom Nike U.S. Women’s $3,400; Dior Homme In this story, manicure, upon request. Watch,
Ford, NYC. 242: Cufs, National Team home stores. Brooks Brothers Alicia Torello. $875; shinola.com.
$1,695 each; Alexander soccer jersey and shorts. shirt, $120; Brooks In this story, manicure,
McQueen, NYC. 243: Nike socks ($20), soccer Brothers stores. Tie, WHAT TO WEAR Megumi Yamamoto.
Drop earring, $410; Sonia shin guards ($22), and $145; paulsmith.co.uk. In WHERE
Rykiel, NYC. Pearl earring soccer cleats ($200); nike this story, manicure, Jin 274–275: On Aldridge: INDEX
($250) and nose ring .com. On Morgan: Nike U.S. Soon Choi for JINsoon. Bikini top, $125; Mohawk 284–285: 6. Folding
($100); fallonjewelry.com. Women’s National Team General Store, LA. chairs, $1,920 for set
244–245: Gloves, $50; squad training top ($55), MOMENT OF THE Watch, $299; similar of three. 8. Bag, $2,600.
dawnamatrix.com. 246: shorts ($65), socks ($18), MONTH styles at Macy’s stores.
Dress, $16,450; select soccer shin guards ($22), 270–271: On Scott: 276: Watch, $3,900; LAST LOOK
Chanel boutiques. Gloves, and soccer cleats ($275); Tights ($45) and Bulgari boutiques. 292: Heels; select
$50; dawnamatrix.com. nike.com. 258–259: sneakers ($75); nike 277: Knit bag, price Miu Miu boutiques.
Shoes, $1,350; select Nike top ($65), shorts .com. On Smalls: Earrings upon request. 278:
Miu Miu boutiques. 247: ($55), and socks ($18); ($720) and shoes (price Watch, $875; shinola ALL PRICES
Swimsuit, price upon nike.com. upon request). Earrings .com. Sneakers, $325; APPROXIMATE.
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291
Last Look
EDITOR: VIRGINIA SMITH
D ETA I LS, S EE IN TH I S I SSU E
Miu Miu heel, $1,290

Behold the ultimate midnight mule—entirely handcrafted and teetering in at 120 millimeters. But look closely:
It’s also a cleverly deconstructed Mary Jane bejeweled to resemble a starry, crystalline sky—and, while studded to
resemble a brogue, its romantic evocation of the boudoir style of old Hollywood mimics that of a bedroom slipper.
Though Miuccia Prada, eccentric as ever, paired the shoe with mustard stockings and a leather cape, we’d like to think
there are no rules whatsoever for this remarkable, celestial shoe. Well, perhaps one: Wear exceptionally.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY ERIC BOMAN

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