Game—wild species of animals and birds—has become an increasingly popular menu

offering. Once the prize of the hunt, most game animals and birds consumed today are
ca. 1150–1123 B.C.
farm products raised to meet growing demand. Although prehistoric hunters first pursued
Last Shang emperor of China has game park animals that would be classified as game today, the ancient Egyptians pioneered raising
built for hunting. wild species on farms for royalty to hunt. In the Middle Ages, game parks became
621 B.C.
common and continued in use for centuries. Game was essential to
Jewish dietary law prohibits the eating of rabbit. the survival of early European settlers in North America, who
learned much from Native Americans about hunting game
and gathering wild plants. In Europe kings and noblemen
A.D. 650s to 1600 had their own hunting forests as well.
Game laws in Europe allow only royalty and nobles to hunt.

1621
First Thanksgiving at Plymouth, Massachusetts, includes venison.

1869
Passengers traveling across the United States on the Central Pacific Railroad dine on antelope, quail, and pheasant.
 Types of Game
KEY TERMS
furred game
feathered game
wild game
There are two general categories of game:furred game and feathered game.Furred game
domestic game
venison includes both large animals,such as deer,wild boar,elk,bear,and moose,and small animals,
jugging such as rabbit,squirrel,opossum,woodchuck,beaver,and muskrat.Pheasant,woodcock,
entrails
ostrich,teal,and quail are examples of feathered game.
ratite
fan Game is further classified as wild or domestic.Wild game refers to animals and birds that
eviscerate
grow and live in their native environment.Wild game is accessible only to hunters.It is for
personal consumption only and cannot be sold.Domestic game refers to animals and birds
that are bred and raised in a farmlike environment.Domestic game is commercially available,
often throughout the year.

Nutrition and Quality

In general,both wild and domestic game are more active than other domesticated
animals.Although some domestic game raised on farms live in restricted outdoor areas
and feed on grains,other domestic game roam over acres of ranch or reserve land and
forage for food.Greater movement and a freer lifestyle make game lower in fat,cholesterol,
and calories than other meats.Game is also high in minerals and protein.One ounce
of deer meat,for instance,has almost twice as much protein as one ounce of duck as well
as considerably more protein than an ounce of chicken,pork,or lean beef.
Quality characteristics of game depend on a variety of factors,including the animal’s
age,diet,level of activity,and season of slaughter.Diet affects the flavor of game meat.
397
Wild game has a very strong flavor.Farm- or ranch-bred game has a more subtle taste,
though still stronger than meat from domesticated animals.Older animals have tougher
flesh than do younger animals.Greater exercise makes wild game meat tougher and
darker than that of domestic game.Game animals and birds harvested in the fall tend
to be meatier because they have fed abundantly over the spring and summer.
Inspection of game for wholesomeness is voluntary. Because local health
codes generally require that any meat intended for public consumption
come from “an approved source,” game inspection has become more wide-
spread. Imported game is subject to random inspection by the Food and Drug
Administration (FDA). Grading for quality is not available for game.
Handling Game Safely Foodborne Illness Associated
with Game
Proper handling of game maintains its quality and ensures its fitness for consumption. Bacteria multiply quickly on raw or
undercooked game that fall into the
Take the appropriate steps when purchasing,receiving,and storing game to check and
temperature danger zone between
preserve its freshness and quality. 41°F–140°F (5°C–60°C). Among these
bacteria are Salmonella and E. coli, which
Purchasing and Receiving Game may cause serious and sometimes fatal
illnesses, especially in high-risk popula-
Both furred and feathered game are available fresh or frozen. Feathered game may be ordered tions. Trichinella is a parasite often asso-
cleaned and boned. It is advisable to purchase game only from suppliers that can certify their ciated with wild game. Cooking game
submission to federal or state inspectors. to the proper minimum temperatures is
As with other meats, examine game carefully upon receiving for signs of mishandling the only way to destroy the harmful bacte-
or contamination. Packaging should not show damage of any kind. Look for tears, leakage, or ria and parasites that cause these and
evidence of repacking. Check the temperature, color, odor, and texture of game meat at delivery. other illnesses.
Fresh game, like other meats, should be 41°F (5°C) or lower. Frozen game should be frozen,
without signs of thawing and refreezing such as ice crystals. Game meat should have good Follow the minimum temperature
color and not give off a bad odor. It should be firm and not tacky. Do not accept game meat guidelines for beef when cooking
that does not meet these specifications.
game animals such as bison, deer,
Storing Game and rabbit. Steak and chops should
Follow general meat storage guidelines for game. Refrigerate fresh game immediately at 41°F reach a minimum internal tempera-
(5°C) or lower. Store frozen game at 0°F–10°F (-18°C–-12°C). Wrap both fresh and frozen
ture of 145°F (63°C) for 15 seconds,
products well. Keep raw game separate from other foods, in trays and on the bottom shelves
of storage units, to prevent cross-contamination. Use fresh game birds and ground game roasts 145°F (63°C) for 3 minutes,
within one to two days; cook fresh game animals within three to five days. Frozen game birds stuffed meat 165°F (74°C), and
will keep for six months; frozen game animals will keep for six to nine months. Always thaw
game gradually under refrigeration.
ground meat 155°F (68°C).
Furred Game
Varieties of furred game available to foodservice operations
vary by region and by season.Venison,rabbit,and wild boar are the
most widely available game animals and appear most frequently on menus.

Venison
Venison is a general term for meat from various game animals, including antelope, caribou,
deer, elk, moose, and pronghorn. The name of the animal is clearly displayed on the package
label for all venison purchases. Farm-raised venison is available throughout the year. Very
often it is meat from one of a variety of deer, including fallow deer (Mediterranean and generally
European in origin), red deer (European with African and Asian relatives), roe deer (northern
European), and white-tailed deer (North American).
Venison is dark, lean meat with little or no marbling. Although it has a generally mild
aroma, it can have a gamy flavor that is lessened by soaking overnight. Loin, leg, and ribs
(rack) are the most common venison cuts.Almost any cooking method suits the loin and rack,
which are very tender. Dry techniques, such as grilling, roasting, and sautéing, cook these cuts
best. Moist and combination methods should be used for the leg, which exercise has made less
tender. Ground venison is often used as an ingredient for pâtés and sausages.

Rabbit
Rabbits are usually raised on ranches and are available all year. Often compared to chicken,
rabbit meat is lean and quite tender and has a mild flavor. Roasting and sautéing are appro-
priate cooking methods for rabbit loin, which easily loses moisture. Rabbit legs, which are
exercised more, are tougher and benefit from braising or stewing, which incorporates moist
and dry cooking. Hares are typically larger than rabbits and are somewhat tougher. Hare
is best cooked using a combination technique. Jugging, or preserving meat by cooking
and storing it in fat, is another method used to prepare rabbit and hare. Casseroles and
country-style pâtés sometimes feature rabbit.

Wild Boar
Wild boar is very popular in Europe. Known in Italy as cinghiale, wild boar is especially promi- 399
nent in Tuscan cuisine. Related to domesticated hog, boar is raised today on farms and
ranches and is available year-round. Boar meat is leaner than pork, has a more intense flavor,
and tends to be very dark. Boar has many of the same culinary applications as pork; both are
served as hams, sausages, and roasts. Cooking techniques for boar are also similar to those
used for pork. They include both dry methods, such as grilling, and combination methods,
such as braising and stewing.

Bison (Buffalo)
After having been hunted almost to extinction in the nineteenth century, North American
bison, or buffalo, is making a comeback. Bison are raised on reserves or on ranches like beef
cattle. Moist and full of flavor, bison meat bears similarities to lean beef and is suited to the
same cooking techniques.

Secondary Varieties
Squirrel, opossum, woodchuck, and beaver are not used in foodservice. If farm-raised, bear
may appear as a menu offering. The same cooking techniques used for large domestic game
animals apply to cuts of bear.
Feathered Game Partridge
Introduced to North America in the 1800s,
partridges are native to Europe, Africa, and
The game bird industry in the United States is huge,selling millions of birds each Asia. Farms and reserves provide a good
year to restaurants and consumers.Among the most popular varieties of feathered game supply of partridge in the United States
today. Partridge meat has a gamier taste
are quail,pheasant,and partridge. than that of quail or pheasant and is gener-
ally tougher. Often roasted whole, it can be
Quail cut into pieces and then sautéed, braised,
or stewed.
A favorite in Europe, North America, and Asia, quail are the smallest game birds. American
quail go by various names—bobwhite, partridge, blue quail, California quail, mountain quail,
and Montezuma quail—depending on the region. Quail meat is lean, dark, and mild-tasting.
Woodcock
Grilling on skewers, roasting on a spit, broiling, sautéing, poaching, and braising are appro- Considered by some to be the best of all
priate cooking techniques for quail. Usually served whole, quail are ideal for stuffing, often bird game, woodcock is extremely tender
with rice or forcemeat. Stuffed whole quail may be presented in aspic. Hard-cooked quail eggs and has a distinct gamy taste. Woodcock
can be used in canapés and garnishes. hunting takes place in the spring and fall.
Whole woodcock roasted with its entrails,
Pheasant or internal organs, intact offers the most
flavor.Woodcock flesh is also used in pâtés,
Originating in Asia, pheasant came to Europe during the Middle Ages and has become the
terrines, and mousses.
most popular of all game birds. Farm-raised pheasant has a mild flavor and is generally
meaty, with the female offering the juiciest and most tender flesh. Both female and young male
pheasants are roasted, but the flesh of the larger and older male, which is drier, leaner, and
tougher,is better suited to braising or stewing.Meat from an older bird can also be incorporated
in a pâté. Pheasant stock makes an excellent base for consommé and sauces.

rhea
Figure 21-1


Native to Africa, the ostrich is not
only the largest member of the
ratite family but the largest bird
in the world, standing 7–8 feet emu
tall. The emu is native to
Australia and averages about 6
feet in height. The rhea, native to
the Argentinian grasslands of
South America, is the smallest
ratite, at about 5 feet tall.

pheasant

ostrich
 Ratites (Ostrich, Emu, Rhea)
Ostriches, emus, and rheas belong to the
ratite family. See Figure 21-1 on page 400.
Preparation of Game
Ratites are small-winged birds that do
Game cookery involves certain preparatory procedures and techniques.Although
not fly. Considered red meat because of its domestic or commercially raised and wild game share many of the same preparatory
dark cherry color, the flesh of these birds is
techniques,differences do exist.
extremely low in fat, cholesterol, and calo-
ries. After cooking, ratite meat looks and Domestic or commercially raised game is federally regulated and is prepared for
tastes much like beef although somewhat
sweeter. It is available in a variety of retail market in much the same way as domestic livestock or poultry.Commercially raised
cuts (medallions, steaks, fillets, and game intended for sale or distribution must be slaughtered and processed in a
ground meat), mostly from the back, thigh
(or fan), and leg. The more tender cuts are
USDA/FSIS-inspected facility before it is available for market.Game that has been
roasted, grilled, broiled, or sautéed and trapped but not killed must also be slaughtered and processed at a USDA/FSIS site,
usually served medium rare to medium.
whether intended for personal consumption or market sale.
The tougher cuts are cooked using combi-
nation methods. Wild game is intended purely for personal use and enjoyment.Both large and small game
Inspection of ratites was once must be bled,dressed,and cooled quickly to avoid damage to the meat and the spread of bac-
voluntary, as it is for other game. teria.Field dressing involves opening the body cavity and removing the internal organs.The
Since 2002, however, USDA carcass is then cleaned and dried inside and hung to quickly cool.When brought from the
inspection of ratites has been field to the kitchen,the carcass will benefit from 7–14 days’aging in 35°F–40°F (2°C–4°C)
mandatory. HACCP systems and refrigeration.Meat should then cut easily away from the bone.Next,the bloodshot should be
other sanitation operating proce- trimmed.Trim the fat away from the flesh to avoid the gamy taste often associated with wild
dures now apply to this special meats.The meat is then ready to cut into steaks and chops or to be ground into sausage.
class of game bird.
Both wild and commercially raised game benefit from marinating,barding,or
Ratites are low in calories and fat and
high in protein, comparing favorably with
larding the meat.
both red meat and poultry. The nutritional
values for a 3.5-ounce (100-g) serving of
ratite is shown in Figure 21-2.
Aging
Hanging game before cooking helps the meat mature, or age. During the hanging process, car-
Figure 21-2 bohydrates in the tissue convert into lactic acid, tenderizing the meat and giving it a stronger
R a t ites

flavor. Before hanging game, eviscerate, or remove the animal’s entrails. Then hang the game
emu
Calories 95
in a cool, dark place with good air circulation. A refrigerator is ideal. Hang furred game by 401
the hind legs and feathered game by the head. To help prevent contamination by bacteria, leave
Protein 20 g
the coat or plumage intact until the hanging process is complete. Hanging times depend on the
Fat 1.5 g
type and age of game. See Figure 21-3.
ost r ich
Calories 100 Figure 21-3
Protein 25 g
Hanging Times

Fat 2 g h are woodcock or pheasant

2 days 4 days
r hea
Calories 105 thrush or w ild duck l a rge g ame
Protein 23 g 3 days 6–8 days
Fat 1.2 g
 Marinating
Barding a Marinades have a traditional place in
game cookery. Highly flavored and con-
centrated mixtures of wine, herbs, and

Game Bird spices are often prepared to tenderize

Game birds, such as a mature pheasant, are especially
lean and are at risk of drying out during roasting. Barding,
or covering a bird’s surface with fat, provides moisture
and adds flavor.
To bard a game bird, follow these steps:
1 Cover the bird
with slices of
bacon or pork
fatback.
Other Techniques
game meat, especially that of furred ani-
mals, and to mitigate its robust flavor.
Most commercially available game today is
young, tender, and milder-tasting, there-
fore marinating is not a requirement. A
marinade may be chosen to impart a par-
ticular taste to game or to keep it from
drying out during cooking.
See Chapter 12: Seasoning and
Flavoring Food for more information
on marinades.
Because it is generally lean, game often
benefits from barding and larding.
See Chapter 11: Cooking Techniques
for more information on barding
and larding.

2 Secure the fat

with butcher’s
twine.

Fabrication
It is rarely necessary to fabricate large game
animals. Commercially available furred game
can be purchased already cut into subprimals
or portions. Game birds are relatively small
and are usually prepared whole, thus requir-
ing little or no butchering.

Butchering (Fabricating) Skills

If smaller cuts of venison, boar, or bison are
required,refer to the fabricating procedures for beef,
pork, or lamb described in Chapters 16, 18, and 19.
The procedure for fabricating a rabbit is explained
on the following page.
 3
Fabricating Pull the front leg
away from the
body to expose
the joint.

a Rabbit
Though it is rarely necessary to fabricate game, rabbit will
need to be butchered in-house.
To fabricate a rabbit into eight sections, place the
dressed rabbit on its back. Then follow these steps:

1 Remove kidneys
and liver from
4 Cut around
and under the
belly cavity. Pull
shoulder to
back the hind
separate. Repeat
legs to expose
to remove the
the joint.
other front leg.

2 Cut through the

joint to remove
5 Cut the loin into
four sections.
the leg. Repeat
to remove the
other hind leg.

6 The rabbit cut into eight sections, along with

liver, kidneys, and heart should look like the
one shown here. 403
Venison Medallions
with Poivrade Sauce and Red Wine
COOKING TECHNIQUES
Ingredients U.S. Standard Metric Sautéing:
1. Heat the sauté pan to the
Marinade appropriate temperature.
Red wine 2 c. 500 ml 2. Evenly brown the food product.
Water 2 c. 500 ml 3. For a sauce, pour off any excess
Garlic, chopped 4 cloves 4 cloves oil, reheat, and deglaze.
Juniper berries, crushed 6 each 6 each Simmering:
1. Place the prepared product in
Boneless venison loin, trimmed, cut into an appropriately sized pot.
20 medallions, about 2 oz. (55 g) each 3 1/2 lbs. 1.6 kg 2. Bring the product to a boil, and
then reduce the heat to allow
Poivrade Sauce the product to barely boil.
Butter 1 1/2 oz. 40 g 3. Cook until desired doneness
Onions, peeled, diced 4 oz. 115 g is achieved.
White wine 10 oz. 300 ml GLOSSARY
Red wine vinegar 4 oz. 120 ml Flambé: French for “flamed”
Black peppercorns 6 each 6 each Nappé: coated or to coat
Parsley, washed 2 sprigs 2 sprigs NUTRITION
Thyme, washed 2 sprigs 2 sprigs
Bay leaf 2 each 2 each Nutrition Facts
Yield: Serves 10
Madeira wine 2 oz. 60 ml Serving Size: 8 oz. (225 g)
Demi-glace 16 oz. 500 ml Amount Per Serving
Calories 500
Salt TT TT
Total Fat 28 g
Black pepper, freshly ground TT TT Sodium 190 mg
Total Carbohydrate 11 g
Oil as needed as needed Protein 39 g

Clarified butter as needed as needed

Cognac or brandy 5 oz. 150 ml
Whole butter, softened 2 oz. 55 g
Croutons, cut same size as the medallions, toasted 20 each 20 each

Method of Preparation
1. Gather all the ingredients and equipment. turning once until browned
2. Combine the red wine, water, garlic, and juniper and the internal tempera-
berries in a saucepan, and heat to a boil. Reduce ture reaches 140°F (60°C).
heat, and simmer for about 5 minutes to meld Season with salt and
the flavors. Chill to 41°F (5°C) or lower. pepper, to taste. Hold
at 140°F (60°C), and
3. Add the venison medallions to the chilled mari-
allow to carry over to
nade, and marinate, covered, at 41°F (5°C) or
a final internal tem-
lower for 2 hours. Remove the meat, and pat dry.
perature of 145°F (63°C).
Discard the marinade.
7. Drain any fat from the
4. While the venison is marinating, begin the sauce.
sauté pan, add the
Heat the butter, add the onions, and sauté until
cognac or brandy, and
translucent. Add the wine, vinegar, peppercorns,
flambé. Add 16 oz. (454
parsley and thyme sprigs, bay leaves, Madeira,
g) of poivrade sauce.
and demi-glace.
Simmer over low heat for 4
5. Simmer until reduced by one-third and good to 6 minutes. Whisk in the
flavor and texture is achieved, about 35 minutes. softened butter. Hold at 140°F
Taste, and season with salt and pepper as needed. (60°C) or higher.
Strain through a chinois mousseline and reserve.
8. To serve, place 2 croutons on a preheated dinner plate,
6. In a large sauté pan, add enough oil and butter to place a medallion on each, and nappé with sauce.
coat the bottom. Quickly sauté the medallions,
 Stewed Rabbit Ragù
with Pappardelle
Ingredients U.S. Standard Metric
Flour 4 oz. 115 g
Paprika 1 Tbsp. 15 ml
Dried thyme leaves 1 tsp. 5 ml
Salt as needed as needed
Black pepper, ground as needed as needed
Olive oil 2–4 oz. 100 ml
Rabbit, cut into 6–8 pieces 3 each 3 each
COOKING TECHNIQUES
Onion, peeled, cut macédoine 12 oz. 340 g
Celery, trimmed, washed, cut macédoine 4 oz. 115 g
Stewing:
1. Sear, sauté, sweat, or blanch the Carrot, peeled, washed, cut macédoine 4 oz. 115 g
main food product. Garlic, peeled, chopped 8 cloves 8 cloves
2. Deglaze the pan, if desired. Red pepper flakes 1 tsp. 5 ml
3. Cover the food product with Dried oregano 1 Tbsp. 15 ml
simmering liquid. Bay leaf 2 each 2 each
4. Remove the bouquet garni. Canned whole tomatoes, drained, chopped 2 c. 500 ml
GLOSSARY Dry white wine 2 c. 500 ml
Macédoine: 1/4
(6 mm) dice Veal stock, white 3 c. 720 ml
Parmentier: 1/2
(1.27 cm) dice Portabella mushrooms, gills removed,
Ragù: meat sauce typically served wiped clean, parmentier 1 lb. 454 g
with pasta Pappardelle, dried or fresh 2 lbs. 910 g
NUTRITION Flat leaf parsley, washed, squeezed dry, chopped 1/2 oz. 15 ml
Extra virgin olive oil 1 1/2 oz. 45 ml
Nutrition Facts Parmigiano regiano, shaved into long curls 3–4 oz. 100 g
Yield: Serves 10
Serving Size: 15 oz. (430 g)
Amount Per Serving
Calories 790
Method of Preparation
Total Fat 36 g 1. Gather all the ingredients and equipment.
Sodium 360 mg
Total Carbohydrate 39 g
2. In a medium-sized shallow container combine the flour, paprika, thyme,
Protein 69 g salt, and pepper.
3. Heat the olive oil in a large braising pan, and dredge the rabbit pieces in the
seasoned flour, shaking to remove excess. Brown on both sides in the hot oil,
and set aside. 405
4. Into the same pan add the onion, celery, and carrot. Sauté to brown. Add the
garlic, dried herbs and spices, tomatoes, wine, and stock. Bring the mixture
to a boil, and season lightly with salt and pepper.
5. Add the mushrooms, stir to incorporate, and then return the browned rab-
bit to the pan, nestling the pieces into the liquid. Simmer, covered, until the
meat is very tender and falls from the bones.
6. Remove from heat. Place the rabbit on a cutting board to cool slightly.
Remove and discard the bay leaves.
7. Pull the rabbit meat from the bones, breaking into small pieces. Discard the
bones and any connective tissue.
8. Add the meat back to the sauce and incorporate gently. Adjust the seasoning
to taste with salt and pepper. Simmer until hot and reduced to desired con-
sistency and flavor.
9. Cook the pasta while the stew is being finished, and then gently toss the
drained pasta with a bit of the braising liquid to moisten the pasta.
10. To serve, arrange a portion of pasta on a plate, top with the ragù, garnish
with chopped parsley, drizzle with 1 tsp. (5 ml) of extra virgin olive oil, and
top with 2–3 shavings of Parmigiano. Serve immediately.
 Rabbit Fried in
COOKING TECHNIQUES
Deep-Frying:
1. Heat the frying liquid to the
proper temperature.
2. Submerge the food product
Herb Batter
completely. Ingredients U.S. Standard Metric
3. Fry the product until it is Frying oil as needed as needed
cooked throughout. Milk, very cold 7 c. 1.7 l
NUTRITION Hot pepper sauce 2 Tbsp. 30 ml
Sugar 1 oz. 28 g
Nutrition Facts Rabbit, cut into pieces 3 each 3 each
Yield: Serves 10
Serving Size: 10 oz. (285 g) Flour 12 oz. 340 g
Amount Per Serving
Baking powder 4 tsp. 20 g
Calories 380
Total Fat 7 g Salt 2 tsp. 10 ml
Sodium 850 mg Garlic, peeled, mashed
Total Carbohydrate 24 g into a paste 5 cloves 5 cloves
Protein 51 g
Dried sage 1/2 tsp. 2.5 ml
Dried thyme 1/2 tsp. 2.5 ml
Dried basil 1/2 tsp. 2.5 ml
Paprika 1 tsp. 5 ml
White pepper, ground 1/2 tsp. 2.5 ml
Allspice 1/8 tsp. .6 ml
Eggs, separated 3 each 3 each

Method of Preparation
1. Gather all the ingredients and equipment.
2. Heat the frying oil in a deep fryer to 350°F (177°C).
3. In a large container combine 5 cups (1.2 l) of the milk (keep the
remaining 2 cups/500 ml cold), pepper sauce, and sugar, and whisk
until the sugar dissolves. Add the rabbit, and marinate, covered, at
41°F (5°C) or lower for 2 hours.
4. Meanwhile, in a large bowl blend the flour with the baking powder,
salt, garlic, herbs, and spices. Whisk the egg yolks and the remaining
2 cups (500 ml) of milk together, and add to the dry ingredients,
blending to form a thick batter.
5. In another clean, dry bowl, whisk the egg whites
to a medium peak, and fold into the batter. Hold
the batter, covered on an ice bath.
6. Drain the rabbit pieces and pat dry;
discard the marinade.
7. Working in batches, dip the rabbit
pieces in the batter to coat completely.
8. Fry the battered pieces, a few at a
time, to a rich brown color and an
internal temperature of 145°F (63°C),
about 10 minutes.
9. Remove from fryer, and drain on
a wire rack. Sprinkle with salt, and
hold uncovered in a dry oven at 140°F
(60°C) or higher. Fry the remaining
pieces in the same manner.
10. Serve the fried rabbit as soon as
possible to maintain crispness.
 Grilled Ostrich
Medallions
with Mustard-Shallot Sauce and Wild Mushrooms
Ingredients U.S. Standard Metric Chef’s Notes

Shallots, finely chopped* 3/4 c. 170 g * These items are divided for use in
various steps of the recipe. Please
Garlic, finely chopped* 10 cloves 10 cloves read Method of Preparation for
Dry white wine, divided* 3 1/2 c. 840 ml proper divisions.
Thyme leaves, washed, leaves stripped, chopped* 6 Tbsp. 90 ml
COOKING TECHNIQUES
Sugar 1 tsp. 5g
Olive oil 4 oz. 120 ml Grilling/Broiling:
1. Clean and heat the grill
Salt TT TT or broiler.
Black pepper, freshly ground TT TT 2. To prevent sticking, brush
Ostrich, top loin or tenderloin, trimmed, the food product with oil.
cut into 10 medallions 3 1/2 lbs. 1.6 kg Sautéing:
Clarified butter* 4 oz. 115 g 1. Heat the sauté pan to the
Demi-glace 3 c. 720 ml appropriate temperature.
Dijon mustard 4 Tbsp. 60 ml 2. Evenly brown the food product.
Thyme sprigs 3 each 3 each 3. For a sauce, pour off any excess
Bay leaf 2 each 2 each oil, reheat, and deglaze.
Heavy cream 8 oz. 240 ml Simmering:
Assorted wild mushrooms, 1. Place the prepared product in
whole (cut if large), cleaned 1 1/2 lbs. 680 g an appropriately sized pot.
2. Bring the product to a boil, and
then reduce the heat to allow
Method of Preparation the product to barely boil.
1. Gather all the ingredients and equipment. 3. Cook until desired doneness
2. In a container large enough to hold the ostrich in one layer, combine is achieved.
1/4 c. (44 g) of the shallots, half of the chopped garlic, 1 cup (240 ml) of the GLOSSARY
wine, 3 Tbsp. (45 ml) of the chopped thyme, sugar, and olive oil. Season with Nappé: coated or to coat
salt and pepper, whisking well. Lay the ostrich medallions into the marinade,
cover, and hold at 41°F (5°C) or lower for 1 hour. NUTRITION 407
3. Preheat the grill to medium-high. Nutrition Facts
4. Meanwhile, make the sauce. In a medium-sized saucepan, sweat 1/4 c. (44 g) Yield: Serves 10
Serving Size: 10 oz. (285 g)
of the shallots in 2 oz. (60 ml) of the clarified butter. Add 1 1/2 cups (360 ml)
Amount Per Serving
of the wine, and reduce by half. Calories 470
5. Add the demi-glace, mustard, thyme sprigs, and bay leaf, and reduce by Total Fat 30 g
Sodium 330 mg
one-third.
Total Carbohydrate 8 g
6. Add the heavy cream, return to a simmer, and simmer gently until good flavor Protein 33 g
and texture is achieved. Taste and season with salt and pepper as needed.
7. Strain through a fine chinois, and hold covered at 140°F (60°C) or higher. Note: Milligrams are higher in analysis
than label because of adding
8. While the sauce is reducing, sauté the mushrooms in the remaining clarified the sauce.
butter in a large sauté pan along with the remaining 1/4 c. (44 g) of chopped
shallots and chopped garlic until lightly browned. Season with salt and pepper.
9. Add the remaining 1 c. (240 ml) wine and 3 Tbsp. (45 ml) of chopped thyme,
and reduce until nearly dry. Hold covered at 140°F (60°C) or higher.
10. Remove the ostrich from the marinade, and pat dry. Grill the ostrich to
145°F (63°C).
11. To serve, arrange a portion of mushrooms with a grilled medallion on a
preheated dinner plate. Nappé with the sauce, and serve immediately.
Venison Stew
with Pearl Onions, Artichokes, and Sun-Dried Tomatoes
Ingredients U.S. Standard Metric COOKING TECHNIQUES
Stewing:
Gremolada 1. Sear, sauté, sweat, or blanch the
Lemon zest, washed, finely grated 4 tsp. 20 ml main food product.
Parsley, washed, squeezed dry, chopped 4 tsp. 20 ml 2. Deglaze the pan, if desired.
Garlic, peeled, finely chopped 2 cloves 2 cloves 3. Cover the food product with
simmering liquid.
Olive oil 2 oz. 60 ml 4. Remove the bouquet garni.
Venison stew meat, trimmed, cut into NUTRITION
1 1/2
(3.8 cm) cubes 4 lbs. 1.8 kg
Pearl onions, trimmed, peeled 1 pt. 454 g Nutrition Facts
Yield: Serves 10
Carrots, tourné 1
(2.54 cm) 30 each 30 each Serving Size: 12 oz. (340 g)

Red wine 1 pt. 500 ml Amount Per Serving

Calories 380
Brown veal stock 1 qt. 960 ml Total Fat 11 g
Parsley stems 6 each 6 each Sodium 170 mg
Thyme sprigs 2 each 2 each Total Carbohydrate 23 g
Protein 42 g
Bay leaves 2 each 2 each
Celery stalks, 4
(10.1 cm) long 2 each 2 each
Sun-dried tomatoes, sliced 1/2
(1.27 cm) 3 oz. 85 g
Frozen artichoke hearts, thawed 1 1/2 lbs. 680 g
Salt TT TT
Black pepper, freshly ground TT TT
Brown roux 3 oz. 85 g

Method of Preparation
1. Gather all the ingredients and equipment.
2. Combine the lemon zest, parsley, and garlic for the gremolada, and set aside.
3. For the stew, heat half of the olive oil in a braising pan, and brown half of the meat
well. Hold browned meat, and repeat with remaining oil and meat.
4. Sauté the onions and carrots in the same pan until lightly browned. Return the
seared meat to the pan.
5. Add the wine and stock, and bring to a boil.
6. Meanwhile tie the parsley stems, thyme, and bay leaves with the celery
to create a bouquet garni.
7. Add the bouquet garni, sun-dried tomatoes, and artichokes
to the pan. Bring to a boil, and season lightly with salt and
pepper. Reduce to a simmer.
8. Cut a piece of parchment paper to the diameter of the
pot, and lay it directly onto the surface of the stew.
9. Cover with a lid, and simmer gently for 20–30 minutes,
or until the meat is fork-tender.
10. Carefully drain the cooking liquids into a saucepan.
Hold the stew, covered tightly, at 140°F (60°C) or higher.
11. Thicken the cooking liquid by tempering in the brown
roux, and then simmer until desired consistency is achieved.
12. Add the sauce back to the meat. Sprinkle with the gremolada,
and mix gently but thoroughly. Taste, and adjust the seasoning
with salt and pepper as needed. Serve immediately, or hold at
140°F (60°C) or higher.
Buffalo Chili
Ingredients U.S. Standard Metric COOKING TECHNIQUES
Salad oil 2 oz. 60 ml Simmering:
Onion, cut macédoine 12 oz. 340 g 1. Place the prepared product in
Garlic, peeled, chopped 15 cloves 15 cloves an appropriately sized pot.
Ground buffalo 2 lbs. 910 g 2. Bring the product to a boil, and
Chili powder 1/2 c. 120 ml then reduce the heat to allow
Ground coriander 1 tsp. 5 ml the product to barely boil.
Ground cumin 1 Tbsp. 15 ml 3. Cook until desired doneness
is achieved.
Dried oregano 2 Tbsp. 30 ml
Salt 1 Tbsp. 15 ml GLOSSARY

Cayenne 1/2 tsp. 2.5 ml Macédoine: 1/4
(6 mm) dice

Brown sugar 1 Tbsp. 15 g Concassé: peeled, seeded, and
roughly chopped
Vinegar 1 Tbsp. 15 ml
Tomatoes, concassé 1 1/2 lbs. 680 g NUTRITION

Beef stock 1 pt. 500 ml Nutrition Facts

Red kidney beans, Yield: Serves 10
Serving Size: 10 oz. (285 g)
canned, drained 1 1/2 lbs. 680 g
Amount Per Serving
Calories 310
Method of Preparation Total Fat 11 g
Sodium 820 mg
1. Gather all the ingredients and equipment. Total Carbohydrate 27 g
2. In a large, heavy rondeau heat the salad oil, and sweat the onion and garlic Protein 27 g
until softened.
3. Increase the heat. Add the ground buffalo, and brown well, mixing and
breaking up large clumps.
4. Add the chili powder, coriander, cumin, and oregano. Blend well, and cook,
stirring to warm the spices, about 1–2 minutes.
5. Add the salt, cayenne, sugar, vinegar, tomatoes, and stock, and simmer, stir-
ring occasionally for 1–1 1/2 hours until thickened. Add the drained beans,
and simmer 20 minutes longer. Taste, and adjust the seasoning as needed.
Hold covered at 140°F (60°C) or higher, or serve immediately.

409
Squab with Sweet
Sausages and Porcini
Ingredients U.S. Standard Metric COOKING TECHNIQUES
Porcini, dried 1 oz. 28 g Braising:
Italian sweet sausages (mild) 1 lb. 454 g 1. Heat the braising pan to the
Squab 10 each 10 each proper temperature.
Salt TT TT 2. Sear and brown the food
Black pepper, ground TT TT product to a golden color.
3. Degrease and deglaze.
Butter, whole 2 oz. 55 g
4. Cook the food product in two-
Garlic, minced 6 cloves 6 cloves thirds liquid until fork-tender.
Onion, peeled, chopped 12 oz. 340 g
NUTRITION
Red bell peppers, cored,
seeded, thinly sliced 2 each 2 each Nutrition Facts
Canned plum tomatoes Yield: Serves 10
Serving Size: 12 oz. (340 g)
(save juice) 3 c. 720 ml
Amount Per Serving
Red pepper flakes 1 tsp. 5 ml Calories 820
Tomato paste 3 Tbsp. 45 ml Total Fat 59 g
Dry white wine 1/2 c. 120 ml Sodium 380 mg
Total Carbohydrate 22 g
Basil, washed, dried, Protein 43 g
chopped 2 Tbsp. 30 ml
Juice of orange 1 each 1 each
Zest of orange
(wash before zesting) 2 each 2 each
Cooked rice, cooked with
porcini soaking liquid
(optional) 2 1/2 c. 550 g

Method of Preparation
1. Gather all the ingredients and equipment.
2. Soak the porcini in 3 cups (720 ml) of warm water for 30 minutes. Drain,
and reserve the water to cook the rice. Hold the mushrooms for the brais-
ing liquid.
3. Pierce the sausages to release fat. Cook them for 10 minutes in a covered,
dry braising pan over moderate heat. Remove the lid, and allow sausages to
brown on all sides. Remove sausages to cool, slice in 1
(2.54 cm) pieces,
and set aside.
4. Meanwhile, rinse and dry the cavities of the squab, season well with salt
and pepper, and truss. Sear the squab in the fat from the sausages. Remove,
and set aside. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of the fat in the pan.
Add the butter to the pan, and melt. Add the garlic, onions, and peppers,
and sauté over a moderately low flame until the vegetables are tender.
5. Return the sausage slices to the pan, and add the porcini, tomatoes, red
pepper flakes, tomato paste, wine, basil, orange juice, zest, and salt to taste.
Simmer for 10 minutes to blend the flavors.
6. Return the squab to the sauce and simmer, covered, for 20 minutes or until
the temperature at the thigh is 165°F (74°C). Taste the braising liquid, and
adjust with salt if needed. Dépouille.
7. Hold covered at 140°F (60°C) or higher, or serve immediately on preheated
dinner plates with rice cooked with the porcini soaking water.
Pheasant Braised
with Red Cabbage and Apple Cider
Chef’s Notes
Ingredients U.S. Standard Metric If a crispy skin is desired, the
Bay leaf 2 each 2 each cooked pheasant can be brushed
Black peppercorns 1 Tbsp. 15 ml with some butter and run briefly
under a broiler.
Juniper berries 5 each 5 each
Thyme sprigs 3 each 3 each COOKING TECHNIQUES

Celery seed 1 tsp. 5 ml Braising:

Bacon 1/2 lb. 225 g 1. Heat the braising pan to the
Butter, whole 4 oz. 115 g proper temperature.
Onions, diced macédoine 12 oz. 340 g 2. Sear and brown the food
product to a golden color.
Brown sugar 2 oz. 55 g 3. Degrease and deglaze.
Red cabbage, core removed, cut chiffonade 3 lbs. 1.4 kg 4. Cook the food product in two-
Tart apples, cored, peeled, grated 4 each 4 each thirds liquid until fork-tender.
Potatoes, peeled, grated 8 oz. 225 g NUTRITION
Apple cider 1 pt. 500 ml
Dry white wine 1 c. 240 ml Nutrition Facts
Yield: Serves 10
Cider vinegar 2 oz. 60 ml Serving Size: 16 oz. (454 g)
Salt TT TT Amount Per Serving

Ground black pepper TT TT Calories 700

Total Fat 38 g
Clarified butter 1 1/2 oz. 45 ml Sodium 330 mg
Vegetable oil 1 1/2 oz. 45 ml Total Carbohydrate 26 g
Pheasant, cut into 8 pieces 3 each 3 each Protein 60 g

Method of Preparation
1. Gather all the ingredients and equipment.
2. Preheat the oven to 350°F (177°C).
3. Make a sachet of the bay leaf, peppercorns, juniper berries, thyme sprig, and
celery seed; set aside.
4. In a braising pan, render the bacon until crisp. Remove bacon, rough chop, and
hold at 41°F (5°C) or lower.
5. Add the whole butter to the pan with the bacon fat, and melt.
6. Add the onion to the pan, and sweat until softened. Stir in the brown sugar.
7. Add the cabbage, apples, potatoes, cider, wine, vinegar, and sachet. Season
411
with salt and pepper. Mix well, cover, and simmer together for about 10 minutes,
stirring periodically.
8. Meanwhile, heat the clarified butter and vegetable oil together in a large sauté
pan. Season the pheasant pieces with salt and pepper, and sear them carefully in
the hot fortified butter until well browned (the skin tends to stick if the pan is too
cold or they are moved too soon).
9. Lay the seared pheasant pieces on top of the cabbage. Cover tightly, and braise in
the preheated oven until fork-tender, about 45 minutes to 1 hour.
10. Remove the pheasant pieces to a hotel pan, cover, and hold at 140°F (60°C)
or higher.
11. Adjust the liquid in the cooked cabbage if it seems too dry or too soupy, and
remove sachet.
12. Add the reserved bacon bits, cover, and hold at 140°F (60°C) or higher.
13. Serve two pieces (one piece each, leg and breast) of pheasant per portion on top
of a bed of cabbage on a preheated dinner plate.
Prosciutto-
Stuffed Quail
Ingredients U.S. Standard Metric COOKING TECHNIQUES

Stuffing Sautéing:
Prosciutto ham, diced brunoise 5 oz. 140 g 1. Heat the sauté pan to the
appropriate temperature.
Apple, washed, peeled, cored,
2. Evenly brown the food product.
and diced brunoise 5 oz. 140 g
3. For a sauce, pour off any excess
Pistachio nuts, shelled oil, reheat, and deglaze.
and peeled 2 oz. 55 g
Dried dates, pitted
Baking:
1. Preheat the oven.
and chopped 2 oz. 55 g
2. Place the food product on the
Bread crumbs 1 oz. 28 g appropriate rack.
Butter, melted 1 oz. 30 ml
NUTRITION
Ginger, ground 1/4 tsp. 1.25 ml
Thyme, ground 1/4 tsp. 1.25 ml Nutrition Facts
White pepper, ground 1/4 tsp. 1.25 ml Yield: Serves 10
Serving Size: 1 each (169 g)
Salt TT TT Amount Per Serving
Calories 310
Total Fat 19 g
Quail, partially deboned 10 each 10 each
Sodium 430 mg
Olive oil 2 oz. 60 ml Total Carbohydrate 14 g
Marsala wine 4 oz. 120 ml Protein 19 g
Demi-glace, heated to
a boil and seasoned 1 pt. 500 ml

Method of Preparation
1. Gather all the ingredients and equipment.
2. Preheat the oven to 325°F (163°C).
3. Combine ingredients for stuffing, and mix well.
4. Rinse the quails, and pat dry. Fill the quails with the stuffing mixture.
Fold the wings under the birds.
5. In a sauté pan, heat the olive oil until it is almost smoking. Sear the birds
on all sides. Transfer the birds to a hotel pan.
6. Discard the fat from the pan, and deglaze with Marsala wine. Cook to
reduce by half. Add the demi-glace; return to a boil, and then pour over
the quails.
7. Bake in the oven for 10 minutes or until tender, or until the internal
temperature reaches 165°F (74°C).
8. To serve, place the quail on preheated dinner plates, and nappé with sauce.
Roast Partridge
Dijon Style
Ingredients U.S. Standard Metric COOKING TECHNIQUES
Whole partridge 5 each 5 each Roasting:
Dijon mustard 1. Sear the food product, and
(reserve 3 Tbsp./45 g) 12 oz. 360 ml brown evenly.
Bacon 20 slices 20 slices 2. Elevate the food product in a
Game fumet 6 oz. 180 ml roasting pan.
3. Determine doneness, and con-
Cognac 4 oz. 120 ml
sider carryover cooking.
Heavy cream 1 pint 500 ml 4. Let the food product rest before
Salt TT TT carving.
Black pepper, ground TT TT
NUTRITION
White bread, toasted,
cut in diagonals 10 slices 10 slices Nutrition Facts
Yield: Serves 10
Serving Size: 1/2 each (199 g)
Method of Preparation Amount Per Serving

1. Gather all the ingredients and equipment. Calories 390

Total Fat 18 g
2. Trim the partridges, and spread the mustard over each bird. Bard each with Sodium 700 mg
three or four slices of bacon, and truss. Total Carbohydrate 3 g
Protein 38 g
3. Place the birds in a roasting pan. Roast in an oven at 425°F (218°C) for
20–25 minutes.
4. Remove the birds from the roasting pan, and hold warm at 140°F (60°C)
or higher. Take 2 oz. (60 ml) of the fat from the roasting pan, and place in
a skillet. Add the fumet, stir, and heat to a boil. Add the cognac, and cook
for 3 minutes.
5. Add the cream and 3 Tbsp. (45 g) of Dijon mustard. Stir, simmer, and
reduce the sauce slowly. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the string
and barding from the birds.
6. Cut the partridges in half. Set each half on top of two toast diagonals, and
spoon the sauce on top.
413