craftsman

library table

© 2011 August Home Publishing Co.

 Feature
Project

Craftsman-Style Library Table

This classic project offers Craftsman design at its best. It’s practical,
simple in details, and features solid, straightforward construction.

C raftsman-style furniture is
always easy to recognize.
That’s because it’s based on a well-
established design philosophy. In
a nutshell, the basic principles are
that furniture should be simple in
design, highly practical, and built to
pass down from generation to gen-
eration. And one look is all you need
to tell that the classic library table in
the photo above hits the mark.
The Craftsman heritage of this
table is unmistakable. It starts with
a solidly built frame that supports a
beefy top. The square, gently eased
edges create clean lines. Minimal
details like the through-tenon join-
ery and the gracefully shaped cor-
bels beneath the upper rails define
Craftsman simplicity.
The possible uses for this table
are wide open. Its classic look com-
pliments most decor. The spacious
top provides plenty of display space
or a comfortable worksurface, and
when you consider the accomodating
drawers, the library table is also a
good candidate for a desk.
But all this aside, what appeals
to me most about this project is the
time spent building it. As it should
be, the construction is very down to
earth — just traditional joinery and
straightforward techniques that will
give your woodworking skills a good
workout. And in the end, you’ll have
a treasured heirloom that looks great
and will serve you well today and far
into the future.

1 WoodsmithShop.com © 2011 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

Construction Details
Overall Dimensions: 54" x 28" x 30"
Large top is
glued up from
1"-thick stock

NOTE: Sturdy base is NOTE: Main parts of

built with mortise and table are quartersawn
tenon joinery white oak

NOTE: Drawer support

system designed for
easy installation after
base is assembled

Figure-eight
fastener

Side-mount drawers
slide on hardwood
runners

Craftsman-style drawer
pulls complement simple
design of table
Shallow drawers add
versatile storage

Routed profile Gently curved

on drawer sides corbels lighten
softens edges and adds the appearance
traditional detail of large table

NOTE: Drawer
sides and back are
maple, bottom is Stretcher
plywood strengthens
Drawers use rigid base
half-blind dovetail joinery
Stretcher joint
reinforced with screws

FRONT SECTION VIEW

False tenon hides

False tenon screws and creates
appearance of
through-tenon joinery

Top is easily fastened

Decorative profile to base with
routed on top edges of Legs use glue-up technique
figure-eight fasteners that creates quartersawn
drawer sides
appearance on all four faces
Ledgers stand
proud of
Maple plywood base rails
drawer bottom

Corbels attach
to base with
dowels and glue

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 27#/8

4!/4
!/2"-wide x 1 B b. !/2 1
%/8 1
!/2"-deep dado
A 22
!/2 1
1 !/2
B UPPER END
RAIL
3#/4 3#/4
B 3#/4
20 D !/4
4
1
B
A
2!/4 8&/8 #/4 #/8 !/4 %/8 !/2
A A
2!/4 %/8
1"-deep FRONT BACK LEG
C mortise LEG
A 1"-deep
29 !/2 mortise
2!/2
3 22 2!/4 d. A
Inside mortise BACK
is !/2"deep D a. C
LEG 1!/4
END !/2 6!/4
LEDGER Mortise for
false tenon 2!/2
LEG A !/4
is !/4"deep
#/4 1!/4 A !/4
!/8" roundover 1!/4 FRONT
on corners and Outside mortise LEG
bottom edges is !/4"deep
3
of legs 1 !/2
3
C !/4 1
LOWER END
!/8
RAIL 2!/2 C e. A
6!/4
B D
RIGHT
UPPER !/8"
!/2 END roundover
!/2 RAIL
2!/4
c. FRONT SECTION
VIEW
Building the End Frames
I decided that the easiest way to can imagine, this requires gluing thin facings. The result is definitely
build the library table was to start by up blanks from thinner stock. But worth the extra effort.
assembling the two basic end frames. this also gives you the opportunity mortises. Once the leg blanks are
Then you can quickly complete the to make a better-looking leg. I used completed and cut to final length,
sturdy base by adding the front and a traditional Craftsman technique to you can work on the joinery. The
rear rails, the center stretcher, and make leg blanks that show quarter- end rails and the front and back rails
all the details. sawn figure on all four faces with no are all connected to the legs with
Legs first. Each end frame consists noticeable joint lines. mortise and tenon joints. Cutting the
of two legs, a two–piece upper rail, The simple process is laid out in mortises in the legs is the first step.
and a lower rail, as shown above. the box below. In a nutshell, you’re If you take a look at the drawing
To begin, you’ll need to make the going to glue up a two-piece blank above, you’ll see that each leg has
four stout, 3"-square legs. As you and then “skin” the joined sides with multiple mortises.

how-to: make a craftsman leg

Veneer resawn
Quartersawn from quartersawn
stock stock a. Quartersawn
2#/4 block
1!/2 #/16

Resawn
veneer
!/8
END VIEW
Joint the glued-
up edges flat
and square
3 Size the Blank. After gluing up an extra-wide Resaw the Veneers. Now you’ll need to resaw
blank from 11⁄2"-thick quartersawn stock, rip veneers from quartersawn stock. They should
and then joint the blank down to 23⁄4" wide. be slightly over width and over thickness.

3 WoodsmithShop.com © 2011 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

 Even though you’re just working
on assembling the end frames at this
point, you’ll want to lay out and cut all
the leg mortises now. This includes
the mortises for the front and back
rails that are added later.
The work. The goal is to end up
with two mirror-image pairs of
legs (front and back). So your first
concern is laying out the mortises
correctly and accurately. After that,
drilling them at the drill press and
cleaning them up at the bench will
be easy and straightforward.
Before getting started, let me give
you a rundown of what needs to be
done. As you can see in detail ‘b’ on
the previous page, the end rails and
back rail fit into off-center, open-end
mortises. The drawings at right offer
a tip for making these.
I created a classic, through-tenon
look on the lower end rails by using a
false-tenon technique. This requires
cutting a 1"-deep mortise centered
on the inside face of the leg and a
shallow mortise on the opposite face
that holds the false tenon (detail ‘c’).
Finally, the front legs each need
two “horizontal” mortises on the
front inside face for the upper and
lower drawer rails (detail ‘a’).
The end Rails. After completing the
mortises, you’ll be ready to make
the upper end rail assembly and the
lower end rails. This work is pretty
straightforward, but there are a few
things to explain.
As you know, both rails are ten-
oned into the legs. The upper rail
Tape veneer
to carrier
board
Plane the Veneers. Plane the veneers to
1⁄ " thick by attaching them to a carrier
8
board with double-sided tape.
4 WoodsmithShop.com © 2011 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
shop tip: two step mortises
1 2
Leg
Backer block
flush with
leg faces
Backer block
Drill Out the Waste. Start the mortises at the drill Cleanup. Sharp chisels complete
press by drilling out most of the waste. Use a backer the job. Pare away the remaining
block at the open end to keep the drill bit on track. waste and square up the ends.
gets a two-shouldered tenon, and mortises (main drawing on page
the lower end rail needs a four- 3). These mortises are for the long
shouldered tenon (details ‘a’ and ‘c’). center stretcher that connects the
A dado blade in the table saw will two lower end rails. I again used a
handle the job. And while the dado simplified through-tenon technique.
blade is on the saw, you can cut a A 1⁄2"-deep mortise on the inside face
1⁄ "-wide dado across the inside face captures the stretcher tenon, and a
2
of both upper end rails (drawing on separate 1⁄4"-deep mortise on the
page 3). Later, this will hold an inte- outside fits the false tenon.
rior rail that supports the drawers. Eased edges. There’s just one more
You also need to make separate thing before you begin the assem-
horizontal ledger pieces that fit bly. I rounded over all the edges
beneath the upper rail (detail ‘e’). of the lower rails and the outside
The ledger sits proud of the rails to edges of the ledger blanks.
create added visual interest. After Assembly. According to the plan, all
the legs and rails are assembled, it the end frame parts should be ready
will be cut to fit between the legs to assemble. First, I glued two legs
and then glued in place. and the upper and lower rails into a
A few more mortises. Completing the frame. Then, you can cut the ledger
lower rails will take you back to the to fit the frame and glue it in place,
drill press and bench for a few more as in detail ‘e’ on the previous page.
how-to: make a craftsman leg
a.
Leg
blank
END
VIEW
!/2"
Veneer flush-trim bit
Glue Up. Glue the veneers to the joined Flush Trim. To complete the legs, trim the
edges using your workbench to distrib- veneers flush with the blanks, and then rout
ute the clamping pressure. a 1⁄8" roundover on all the long edges.
 TOP VIEW #8 x 3" Fh woodscrew
AA BB CC DD E E F F GG
THIRD: This
Drill holes for
HH NOTE:
I I JBack
J rail
K KandL upper
L MMandNlower
N
E BACK RAIL #8 Fh woodscrew
drawer rails are made from 1"-thick SIDE VIEW !/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
G UPPER DRAWER
hardwood.
Q Q Stretcher S Sis made
#/8a.!/2
OO P P R R T T UU L RAIL 2#/4
from 1!/2"-thick 44 %/8 &/8
hardwood #8 1x 3" Fh woodscrew
VV WW XX YY ZZ PART NAMESL 1#/4 2!/4
!/4 !/4
BACK LEDGER
!/2 F
L G
42
1 !/4
44 #/4
10!/2 L
H 1 2!/4 2#/4
CORBEL
LOWER K Front !/4
DRAWER leg
#8 x 2" Fh RAIL J !/4
woodscrew
J
!/2 H

2!/2 45
I
STRETCHER 2!/2
L L
J c. #/8 3 I
2!/4
b. E Back Upper end !/2
leg rail
1#/4
F 1#/4 #/4 #/8
13 End ledger
#/4 !/8" !/16"
2!/4 roundover roundover
on edges Lower
1!/8 !/2"-dia. x 1!/8 Fh woodscrew end rail
OVERALL !/2
DIMENSIONS: NOTE: This !/2"-deep #8 x 1!/4" mortise
J LEG FALSE
#8 x 2" Fh hole
#/4 TENON
woodscrew !/2" x 1" #8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew
K CROSS SECTION FIRST: This Lis
dowel L K #/8
STRETCHER FALSE #8 x 1#/4" Fh woodscrew
TENON
END VIEW SECOND: This
#8 x 2" Fh woodscrew
completed, you’re already halfway you’ll cut on each one are a little bit
home on this task. The only minor
#8 x 3" different. The upper drawer rail has
Fh woodscrew
Completing
TOP VIEW
the Base THIRD: This
complication is that the tenons on a three-shouldered tenon while the
With the end
SIDE frames assembled, you each piece are slightly !/16different.
VIEW !/8 !/4 #/4 lower rail has a standard, four–shoul-
can start on stage two of the construc- Take a look at the box below. #/8 !/2 %/8 &/8 dered tenon (detail ‘a’).
tion: making and
PART NAMES installing the miscel- The back rail has the same two- Screw Holes. Later, you’ll add the
laneous parts that complete the base. piece design as the upper end rails. interior support system for the three
You’ll add the back rail and drawer First, cut the back rail to size. Then drawers. This includes two vertical
NSIONS: NOTE: This rails, the long#8 xcenter
1!/4" Fhstretcher,
woodscrewthe cut a two-shouldered tenon on each divider/support rails that fit between
#8 x 1!/4" Fh woodscrew
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
corbels, and the false tenons.
NOTE: This
end (first drawing below). The ledger the drawer rails. They’re fastened
#8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew
FIRST: This
A is
Drawer RailsG& H
B C D E
BackI Rail. Fitting the is cut to width and rough length, and with#8screws
J K L M
x 1!/2" Fhinstalled
woodscrew through the
CROSS SECTION FIRST: This is
back rail and#8the drawer rails
x 1#/4" Fh woodscrew to the the edges are rounded over. rails. So it would be a good idea to
N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z
#8 x 1#/4" Fh woodscrew
SECOND: Thisend frames is the first step. Since The two drawer rails are also easy drill the countersunk screw holes in
END VIEW
#8 x 2" Fh woodscrew SECOND: This
AA theBBmortises
CC in
DD the legs
E E have
F F GG been to fit. But as I mentioned, the tenons the rails before assembly.
#8 x 2" Fh woodscrew
#8 x 3" Fh woodscrew
HH
THIRD: This I I J J KK L L TOP
M M VIEW
NN #8 x 3" Fh woodscrew

OO P P QQ
how-to: cut the tenons THIRD: This
!/16R R!/8 S!/4S
#/4T T U U
SIDE VIEW Aux. !/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
VV WW XX #/8Y Y!/2 Z%/8
Z &/8 fence
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
Aux. PART NAMES
fence
a. G END VIEW Aux.
fence
G 1
L M UPPER
E
A B C D F G H I J K L M Rip fence DRAWER
acts as RAIL !/4
Y Z stop
N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

F GG a. END
Dado blade AA BB CC D D VIEW
E E F F GG
Aux.
M NN fence b. END VIEW
HH I I J J K!/4
K L L MM NN Dado
blade F
T UU 1 1
OO P P E QQ RR S S T T UU
!/4
VV WW XX YY ZZ !/4

The Back Rail. The back rail requires a two-shouldered Upper Drawer Rail. The upper drawer rail has tenons with three
tenon. After setting the rip fence to gauge the length, raise shoulders. Here, I cut the front and back shoulders first. Then I cut
the blade between passes to sneak up on the thickness. the thicknesss of the tenon to match the depth of the mortise.

5 WoodsmithShop.com © 2011 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

 13
The center stretcher. Next comes 1!/2
2!/4 NOTE: Stops are glued to Long Stop NOTE: Stops are made from
the center stretcher. Again, this part top surface of hardboard base !/2"-thick stock
!/4
4
simply gets a tenon on each end. But Hardboard base
since the stretcher fits between the
Short
lower end rails, rather than the legs, 45° Stop
the trick is getting the shoulder-to- NOTE: Use beam compass
shoulder length right. to draw 25"radius arc
To do this, dry fit the back rail and TOP VIEW 1!/2
2!/4
the drawer rails between theOVERALL end When they’re ready, glue them
DIMENSIONS: into
NOTE: This Corbel Routing Jig
#8 x 1!/4" Fh woodscrew
frames, and take a measurement. the mortises, leaving them 1⁄8" proud.
#8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew
Then when you cut the tenons onCROSS the SECTION
The corbels. The gracefully FIRST:
shaped This is
ends of the stretcher, simply sneak up corbels I added to the base are a #8 x 1#/4" Fh woodscrew
A B C D E F G H I J K L M
on a tight fit, testing the shoulder-to- END VIEW distinctive feature of Craftsman fur- This
SECOND: Hardboard
N O P Q R shoulder
S T U Vlength W X to Y the
Z dry-fit base. niture. They help lighten and soften #8 x 2" Fh woodscrew base

Roundover. With the stretcher TOP VIEW the heavy look of the table. #8 x 3" Fh woodscrew
AA BB CC DD E E F F GG
fit, return to the router table before The base requires eight identicalTHIRD: This
Short
HH I I J J KK L L MM N N
assembling the base. All the edges SIDE VIEWcorbels. And being a focal point, I stop !/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
Corbel
OO P P Q Qon the
R R stretcher,
S S T T asU well
U as the out- wanted them to be smoothly shaped blank
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
VV WW XX
sideY edges
Y ZZ
of the drawer rails andPART and consistent. So rather than shape
the NAMES NOTE: Place template jig over
Long
stop
back ledger, need a 1⁄8" roundover. each corbel by hand, I made a tem- corbel blank snug to long
and short stops
Assembly. The assembly will be eas- plate routing jig.

1
ier if you do it in small bites. I glued The corbel jig is illustrated above. Trace the Shape. After cutting the eight corbel
the rails and stretcher to one end It’s just a simple sled that’s used to blanks to width and length, use the template jig
frame and then the other. The last both lay out the profile and rout it to trace the finished shape onto each blank.
stepThis
is to reinforce the #8 upper drawer
x 1!/4" Fh woodscrew to shape. The
OVERALL steps for using it areNOTE: This
DIMENSIONS: #8 x 1!/4" Fh woodscrew
: NOTE:
rail and the stretcher joints with shown at right. Before adding the #8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew
#8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew
screws
FIRST: This (details
is ‘a’ and ‘c’, page 5). corbels
CROSS to the base, you’ll rout aFIRST: This is Cut to waste
SECTION
A B C D Craftsman H I J Structurally,
E F G Details. #8K x 1#/4" the roundover on all the outside edges.
M Fh woodscrew
#8 x 1#/4" Fh woodscrew
side of layout
line
base is
SECOND: This complete. But you still need END The finishing touch. When you
VIEW SECOND: This
N O P Q R S T U V W #8 X x Y2" Fh
Z woodscrew #8 x 2" Fh woodscrew
to finish up the “period” details — attach the corbels, you want to cen-
#8 x 3" Fh woodscrew
AA Bthe
B false
C C tenons
DD Eand
E the
#8 corbels.
F Fx 3" GFhG woodscrew ter VIEW
TOP them on the thickness of the leg.
THIRD: This THIRD: This
False Tenons. The #8 xfalse
1!/4" Fh tenons
woodscrew for The long edge can simply be glued Cut chamfer after
HNOTE:
H I This
I J J KK L L MM N N cutting curve
the legs and those for the stretcher
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4 to
SIDE the legs.
VIEW The top end needs to be !/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
OO P P QQ R R S #8
S x 1!/2"
T T FhU woodscrew
U
are isdifferent sizes, #/8
FIRST: This but!/2otherwise,
%/8 &/8
doweled
PART NAMESto the ledger or drawer rail #/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
V V Wmaking
W X X themY Y isZ#8easy. You
Z x 1#/4" can learn
Fh woodscrew (detail ‘b,’ page 5). You’ll find more
SECOND: about the technique on page 12. information on this on page 11.
all This
#8 x 2" Fh woodscrew Corbel blank

how-to: cut the tenons

#8 x 3" Fh woodscrew

2 to the band saw, and cut them to rough shape.

THIRD: This Rough Cut Each Blank. Next, take the blanks
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
a. H Stay about 1⁄16" to the outside of the layout line.
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8LOWER
END DRAWER
VIEW RAILEND VIEW
Aux. fence Aux. 1
needed fence !/4 Direction of
H
for cutting feed
stretcher
tenons

!/2" L
CORBEL
dado blade
Aux.
I b. !/2" pattern bit
fence STRETCHER
NOTE: Rail and stretcher !/2
blade fence and height Starting
settings differ #/8 Bearing rides point
along curved
edge of jig base

3 jig with double-sided tape and trimmed the

Four Shoulders. The stretcher and lower drawer { False tenons create a Flush Trim. Finally, I secured the blank in the
rail need four-shouldered tenons. Cut the cheeks, traditional through-
and stand the pieces on edge to cut the shoulders. tenon look. rough edge using a pattern bit. Rout “downhill,”
starting at the wide end.

6 WoodsmithShop.com © 2011 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

 CROSS SECTION FIRST: This is
#8 x 1#/4" Fh woodscrew
END VIEW SECOND: This
#8 x 2" Fh woodscrew

TOP VIEW T DRAWER

#8 x 3" Fh woodscrew T
#8 x 2" Fh woodscrew 46!/4 16
THIRD: This
STOP
REAR DRAWER P
SIDE VIEW RAIL OVERALL
M DIMENSIONS: !/16 22!/8
NOTE: This!/4 #/4 #8 x 1!/4" Fh woodscrew
#/4 2#/4
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8 #8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew
PART NAMES CROSS SECTION
P FIRST: This is
P
K L
&/8 #8 x 1#/4" Fh woodscrew
2#/4 1!/2 O
END VIEW 1 SECOND: This
X Y Z S #8 x 2" Fh woodscrew
MIDDLE
16#/4 DRAWER DRAWER R
TOP VIEW #8 x 2" Fh
RAIL#8 x 3" Fh woodscrew
F#8F x G GFh woodscrew
1!/2" 16%/8 SUPPORT woodscrews
R
THIRD: This
CLEAT O
#8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew N
MM NN
N SIDE VIEW O !/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
T T UU END DRAWER
SUPPORT RAIL #8 x %/8" Fh #/8 !/2 %/8 &/8Q
PART NAMES
#/4 woodscrew a. !/2
Back
REAR DRAWER !/4
leg #/4 RAIL
2%/8
1
P !/2 #8 x 1!/4 " Fh woodscrew
END RAIL b. P
SPACER R
Upper
DRAWER O !/4 drawer M 3#/4
RUNNERS 2#/4 N
rail
VERTICAL O End
DRAWER rail
#8 x 1!/4" Fh woodscrew DIVIDER
Q O Q
#8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew Lower
is !/8 drawer c. #/4 #/4
#8 x 1#/4" Fh woodscrew rail
S
his 17!/4 !/4
Adding the Drawer Supports
M
#8 x 2" Fh woodscrew

#8 x 3" Fh woodscrew
s Now thatOVERALL
the exterior is complete,
DIMENSIONS: drawing above,
NOTE: This you’ll get the#8 x pic-
1!/4" Fh woodscrew 2#/4 T R
26!/2
you can turn your attention to the ture, and I’ll introduce all the parts
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4 #8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew
interior of the base.
CROSS You’ll need to
SECTION as theyFIRST:
comeThis
up.is
27#/8 1!/2
B
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
G H I J K L #8
E F This
C D NOTE:
create the three
M x 1!/4" Fh woodscrew
openings and a sup- Rear Drawer rail. The first #8part to Fh woodscrew
x 1#/4"
#8 x 1!/4" Fh
port system for
END VIEWthe drawers. make and install
SECOND: Thisis the rear drawer woodscrew
#8 x 2" Fh woodscrew O
P S T U V W X Y #8 Z x 1!/2" The partition/support
Fh woodscrew
Overview. rail. This piece stretches between
FIRST: This is
BB CC DD E E F F G G
system has
TOP a fair number of parts,
VIEW
#8 x 1#/4" Fh woodscrew
the upper end rails to anchor #8 x 3"theFh woodscrew
but it’s designed to go into the drawerTHIRD: This
support system. A short 17!/4system. With the long rail
Support
I I SECOND:
J J KK This L L M M N N
#8 xassembled
2" Fh woodscrew
SIDEbase
VIEWvery easily. The tongue cut on each end fits the!/4 in
!/16 !/8 #/4 place, you can start adding the
U U side-mount drawers slide on thin dadoes you cut earlier in the #/8 end
!/2 %/8 drawer support rails and runners.
P P QQ R R S S T T
#8 x 3" Fh woodscrew &/8
W W THIRD:
XX This
YY ZZ runners installed
PART NAMES on a sturdy, inte- rails. You can simply apply glue to You’ll need 26!/2 to install a rail at each
rior framework.
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
No bottom support the tonguesRand then slide the rail end and a middle assembly that
is needed. If you take a look at the into the dadoes from the top. forms the drawer openings.
27#/8
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8

how-to: drawer runner details

#/4 !/2
Push block
R 7&/8
secures runner
cutoff #/4
Lay out
8
a. END VIEW full
radius
Push
Waste block O Q
O %/16
DRAWER N
RUNNER Cut to waste O
O Runner side of
blank layout line
1
Clamp spacer
flush with bottom
of drawer rails

Rip to Size. To begin making the drawer run- Round the Ends. After cutting the Attach the Runners. A spacer clamped to the
ners, rip them to rough thickness from 3⁄4" runners to length, round one end rail will help position the runner while you install
stock. Then plane them to 1⁄4" thick. at the band saw. Sand it smooth. screws through pre-drilled, countersunk holes.

7 WoodsmithShop.com © 2011 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

 shop tip: centered tongue & groove
I worked on the two end pieces
first. These are simply cut to fit
between the front leg and the rear Aux. miter
Vertical fence
support rail. They’re attached by drawer
divider
screwing them to spacers glued to blank a. Q a. END VIEW
END R
the upper end rails (detail ‘a’ on page !/2
VIEW
!/4 R
7). They should sit flush to the inside !/2
edge of the leg. !/2
#/8"dado !/4
Runners first. Before attaching the blade
rails to the frame, I made the drawer
runners and pre-installed them.
This is much easier than trying to First, the Groove. I used a dado blade to Next, the Tongue. Use the same dado blade
accurately position and screw them cut a centered groove on the divider blank. to cut a mating tongue on the rails. The rip
in place afterward. Flip the blank end for end between passes. fence will gauge the length of the tongue.
The runners are 1⁄4"-thick by 3⁄4"-
wide strips that are rounded on the
front end. You’ll need six in total, so The construction. The nice thing space the runner away from the rear
make them all at once. The box at the about this design is that the whole end (details ‘b’ and ‘c’). Finally, cut
bottom of page 7 shows how. Note thing can be preassembled and then the support cleat to size and screw
3⁄ " #8 x 1!/4" Fh woodscrew
that the runners are positioned
OVERALL added to the base.
DIMENSIONS:
4 NOTE:I built
This it just as the assemblies to either end.
away from the back end of the rails. I described it, from front to back. #8 The installation.
x 1!/2" The drawings below
Fh woodscrew
They’ll lap onto the front
CROSSlegs so they The vertical dividers
SECTION FIRST:start out as an will help you understand the support
This is
I can
J K be L screwed to them. extra-long blank. This makes it eas- installation.
F G H M
#8 x 1#/4" Fh woodscrew
The key is to position it
Middle supports. The middle rail
END VIEW ier to cut a groove in the
SECOND: back
This edge, correctly. The
#8 x 2" Fh woodscrew
small drawer open-
S T U V W X Y Z
assembly is a little different. Start- as shown in the Shop Tip above. ings should be equal, with the rails
#8 x 3" Fh woodscrew
C DD E E ingF Fat the
G G front, you have
TOP VIEW a pair of Once the grooveTHIRD: is complete,
This
you square and aligned in the base. Take
J KK L L
vertical
MM N N
dividers screwed between can cut two dividers to length. a few minutes to check, adjust, and
the drawer rails. The middle
SIDE VIEWdrawer I cut the support rails to width, but double-check
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4 before installing the
Q R R S S T T
rails areUjoined
U
into the back edge of left them extra long. Once a tongue is screws #/8 !/2 %/8 in the
&/8 vertical dividers and
X YY Z Z the dividers. A runner PART attached to cut on the front end (drawing above) the support cleat.
is NAMES
either side of this assembly (detail and the rail is glued to the divider, There’s one more task before
‘b,’ page 7). The drawer rails are trim each assembly to final length. moving on. The small drawer open-
sized to butt up to the rear support Note: The dividers are recessed from ings need stops. These are just small
rail and are held fast by screwing the edges of the drawer rails. blocks that butt up to the middle
them to the ends of a support cleat. Now, add a drawer runner to each drawer rails and are screwed to the
This cleat doubles as a drawer stop. side of the assemblies. Be sure to rear support rail (detail ‘c’).

install the middle support

Clamp rear drawer

rail to install centered
support cleat

9
Clamp at
front to
secure while
installing

Slide It into the Base. After attaching the two rail assemblies to the Adjust & Fasten. Before installing the screws, you’ll want to
support cleat, the entire assembly can be inserted between the drawer carefully adjust the position of the assembly and make sure
rails and temporarily held in place with a clamp or two. the drawer openings are square and level.

8 WoodsmithShop.com © 2011 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

 X
V V
LARGE Edge a.
W V Z profile
AA DRAWER
SMALL BACK W
DRAWER U
BACK LARGE AA #8 x 1!/4"
1!/4Fh woodscrew
OVERALL DIMENSIONS: Z
NOTE: This
DRAWER !/4"
!/4"
W ply. 1!/4
Z 17#/8 SIDE 1!/4 ply. 1!/4 #8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew
V
21&/8
CROSS SECTION 17 FIRST: !/4
This is X BB !/4 U
8&/8
A B C D E F G H I J K L M 21#/8 #8 x 1#/4" Fh woodscrew
Y
%/16
17!/4 END VIEW
LARGE SECOND: This SIDE SECTION #8 x 2" Fh woodscrew
N O P Q R S T U V W Y Z B B DRAWER
2%/8
8#/8 BOTTOM
TOP VIEW #8 x 3" Fh woodscrew
AA CC DD E E F F GG
SMALL
26!/2 THIRD: This W
!/16 SIDE U b.
X DRAWER AA
HH I I J J KK L L MM NN
SECTION Y
BOTTOM !/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
17#/8 17 SIDE VIEW
OO P P QQ R R S S T T UU U
27#/8 21&/8
SMALL SMALL 16(/16 #/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
DRAWER V Y DRAWER PULL
VV WW XX YY ZZ 8&/8 DRAWER PART NAMES (Lee Valley
SIDE 2%/8 FRONT LARGE V Z #/4
PART NAMES DRAWER FRONT #01A28.40)
!/16
!%/16

Finishing Up Drawers & Top

With the base complete, you’re down As shown at left, they’re laid out with FRONT SECTION c.
to a few important details. Making a standard spacing (7⁄8" on centers). !/4
#/16
DOVETAIL the three drawers and the top will Profile. After cutting grooves for
Runners
LAYOUT
wrap things up. the plywood bottoms at the table
OVERALL DIMENSIONS: NOTE: This #8 x 1!/4" Fh woodscrew
The Drawers. The drawers have saw, I took the sides to the router V Z
X BB
&/16 three features that guide the work. table to add the decorative
#8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew profile.
CROSS SECTION First comes the half-blind FIRST:dovetail
This is The profile is routed using a small, !/16
#8 x 1#/4" Fh woodscrew
K L M joinery used to build the boxes. two-flute ogee bit (Amana Tool
END VIEW #8 x 1!/4"IFh
Second, woodscrew
added SECOND:
an authentic This
period #54120)
S: #8 and
x 2" is
Fh“stopped”
woodscrewshort of the
V
NOTE: This
W X Y Z &/8
Z detail by routing
#8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew
a profile on the ends. To do this, I set up the router straight bit. The goal is centered
TOP OVERALL DIMENSIONS: #8 xNOTE:
3" Fh This
woodscrew #8 x 1!/4" Fh woodscrew
F F GG FIRST: This is VIEW top inside edge of the drawer sides.
THIRD: This table with stop blocks clamped to grooves that are consistently posi-
MM NN Finally,
#8 x 1#/4"you’ll rout grooves in the the fence (box). This allows you
Fh woodscrew #8 to
x 1!/2" tioned from side to side. I trapped
Fh woodscrew
SECOND:SIDEThis VIEW sides to fit CROSS
the SECTION
runners in the base. make !/16 FIRST:
the !/8 !/4This
cuts #/4is
without trying to rout the drawer between the fence and a
U
T T UU &/8 #8 x 2" Fh woodscrew
A B C D E F G H IY J K L M Dovetails. Before getting started to a line.
#/8 You’ll
!/2 %/8 &/8 the burning#8
avoid x 1#/4" Fh woodscrew
that straightedge and made the two cuts
on#8 the
x 3" Fh END VIEW
woodscrew
dovetail joinery, cut all the often occurs SECOND:
during Thisa slow cut. #8 x 2" Fhfeeding in opposite directions (center
N O P Q S T This
RTHIRD: U V W X Y Z woodscrew
parts to size. I sized the drawers to Runner grooves. After sanding the and right drawings, box below). This
TOP VIEW #8 x 3" Fh woodscrew
AA BB CC DD E E &/16
F F have
G G a 1⁄1!/4
!/16 !/8 6" gap on all sides and to sit
#/4 profiles, assemble
THIRD: This the drawers, and way, the cuts on both sides can be
HH I I J J KK L L flush
MM N N with
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8the vertical dividers. rout runner grooves in the sides. referenced from the top edge. Rout
!/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
Once theSIDE partsVIEW
are ready, set up I routed the stopped grooves a test piece to check the accuracy of
OO P P QQ R R S S T T UU
your jig Right andstopcreate
block the dovetails. with a single pass using a sharp#/83⁄4"!/2 %/8 the &/8
setup before routing the drawers.
VV WW XX YY ZZ

How-to: Drawer details

Drawer
back Drawer Stop routing
front Drawer when drawer
front front reaches
15!%/16
Fence helps layout line
secure drawer
15!%/16
of bit

Aux.
fence
1&/16
Left stop block a. END VIEW
%/32" ogee bit of bit a. END SECTION VIEW
Drawer #/4"
1&/16 straight bit
side
%/16 V Stop routing when
drawer front
Z !%/16 #/4
reaches layout line Aux.
Fence fence

Stopped Edge Profile. To rout the stopped ogee pro- Routing the Grooves. Feed in the Opposite Direction. To rout the
file, butt the drawer side up to the right stop block, usual right to left direction to rout groove on the opposite side, you’ll
plunge into the bit, and rout to the left stop block. the groove on one side. need to feed from left to right.

9 WoodsmithShop.com © 2011 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

 OO P P QQ RR S S T T UU
#/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
VV WW XX YY ZZ PART NAMES

CC
TOP
When the drawers are fit to your a.
FRONT SECTION VIEW
satisfaction, the pulls can be installed.
CC
And this leaves just one thing to do !/8"
roundover
TOP
— make the top. Back
Upper 3
end leg
#8 x 1" Fh
The Top woodscrew
Figure-eight
rail Upper
end rail !/8"
Adding the top is a relaxed way to #/4"-dia. x fastener roundo
#/32"-deep (Rockler #21650)
finish up the table. You can start by hole
gluing up an oversized panel from b. SIDE VIEW
1"-thick stock. Then take some %/16 &/8
CC
time to clean upA and
B C smooth
D E F theG topH I J K L M Front NOTE: This #8 x 1!/4" Fh woodscrew
legOVERALL DIMENSIONS:
TOP
before cutting it to final size. FIRST: This is #8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew
N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z CROSS SECTION 1
Cut to Size. The heavy panel was SECOND: This #8 x 1#/4" Fh woodscrew
END VIEW Front #8 x 2" Fh woodscrew
too large for myA A table
B B saw,
C Cso ID took
D E E F F GG NOTE: Top is glued THIRD: This leg
TOP VIEWup 1"-thick hardwood #8 x 3" Fh woodscrew
a different route.
HH
First,
I I
I
J J
cutKK
it toL L MM N N and cut to 28" x 54" size
SIDE VIEW !/16 !/8 !/4 #/4
rough size with a circular saw. Then
OO P P QQ R R S S T T UU PART NAMES
I used a router, a straightedge, and perimeter, as shown above. I mor- The top should be centered with a #/8 !/2 %/8 &/8
a flush-trim bitV Vto trim
W W itXtoX finished
YY Z Z tised one into the top of each leg 3" overhang on each side and a 1"
size. Finally, I switched to a round­ and one in the center of each end overhang on the front and back.
over bit to ease the edges. rail (details ‘a’ and ‘b’). The mortise Once the top is screwed down,
The last task. Now you can install is just a shallow hole drilled with a you’re ready to apply a finish. I sug-
the top on the base. The inside of Forstner bit (main drawing). gest using a high-quality stain. (I
the base has limited access, so I After screwing the fasteners to chose Varathane’s Early American.)
mounted the top with figure-eight the legs, you can position the top on After all, your library table will be
fasteners positioned around the the base and mark for pilot holes. around for a long, long time.

Materials, Supplies & Cutting Diagram

A Legs (4) 3 x 3 - 29 1#/4"x 6"- 60" Quartersawn White Oak (Two boards @ 5 Bd. Ft. each)
B Upper End Rails (2) 1 x 33⁄4 - 22 A A
A A
C Lower End Rails (2) 1 x 3 - 22
D End Ledgers (2) 1 x 21⁄4 - 20 1#/4"x 4"- 48" Quartersawn White Oak (2.7 Bd. Ft.)
E Back Rail (1) 1 x 33⁄4 - 44 I
F Back Ledger (1) 1 x 13⁄4 - 42
G Upper Drawer Rail (1) 1 x 23⁄4 - 44 1"x 4"- 96" Quartersawn White Oak (3.3 Bd. Ft.) J
H Lower Drawer Rail (1) 1 x 23⁄4 - 44 A (For leg veneer) A (For leg veneer) A (For leg veneer)
I Stretcher (1) 11⁄2 x 3 - 45 1"x 4"- 96" Quartersawn White Oak (3.3 Bd. Ft.) K
J Leg False Tenons (4) 1⁄ x 21⁄ - 3⁄
2 2 8 B B C C
K Stretcher False Tenons (2) 3⁄ x 21⁄ - 3⁄
4 4 8
L Corbels (8) 3⁄ x 21⁄ - 13
4 2 1"x 7"- 96" Quartersawn White Oak (5.8 Bd. Ft.)
M Rear Drawer Rail (1) 3⁄ x 33⁄ - 461⁄ D D
4 4 4 H
N End Drawer Support Rails (2) 3⁄4 x 23⁄4 - 16 E G
O Drawer Runners (6) 3 ⁄ x 1⁄ - 163⁄
4 4 4 P
P End Rail Spacers (4) 1 x 7⁄8 - 33⁄4 1"x 5"- 48" Quartersawn White Oak (2.1 Bd. Ft.)
Q Vertical Drawer Dividers (2) 1 x 25⁄8 - 23⁄4 QQ R R F
R Middle Drawer Rails (2) 1 x 23⁄4 - 165⁄8
3⁄ x 23⁄ - 22 1"x 7!/2"- 60" Quartersawn White Oak (Four boards @ 3.9 Bd. Ft. each)
S Drawer Support Cleat (1) 4 4
T Drawer Stops (2) 3 ⁄ x 11⁄ - 23⁄
4 2 4 CC
U Small Drawer Fronts (2) 3 ⁄ x 25⁄ - 87⁄
4 8 8
V Small Drawer Sides (4) 1⁄ x 25⁄ - 173⁄
2 8 8 #/4"x 5"- 96" Quartersawn White Oak (3.3 Bd. Ft.) O
W Small Drawer Backs (2) 3 ⁄ x 25⁄ - 87⁄
4 8 8 M N N
X Small Drawer Bottoms (2) 1⁄4 ply. - 17 x 83⁄8
Y Large Drawer Front (1) 3 ⁄ x 25⁄ - 217⁄ T
4 8 8
1⁄ x 25⁄ - 173⁄ #/4"x 5!/2"- 96" Quartersawn White Oak (3.7 Bd. Ft.)
Z Large Drawer Sides (2) 2 8 8 L L L L L L L
AA Large Drawer Back (1) 3⁄ x 25⁄ - 217⁄ Y L
4 8 8 S U U
BB Large Drawer Bottom (1) 1⁄4 ply. - 17 x 213⁄8
CC Top (1) 1 x 28 - 54 #/4"x 3"- 48" Hard Maple (1 Bd. Ft.)
W W AA
• (14) #8 x 2" Fh Woodscrews
• (16) #8 x 11⁄4" Fh Woodscrews !/2"x 6"- 60" Hard Maple (2.5 Sq. Ft.)
• (12) #8 x 1" Fh Woodscrews V V Z
• (18) #8 x 5⁄8" Fh Woodscrews V V Z
• (3) Dark Bronze Bail Pulls w/Screws
• (6) Figure-Eight Fasteners ALSO NEEDED: One 24"x 48" sheet !/4" Maple plywood

10 WoodsmithShop.com © 2011 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

 Tips From
Our Shop

Shop Notebook
Dowel Joinery
When it came to adding the corbels the end of the corbel. Then, using a dimple on the rail or ledger. This
to the library table, I decided to use a combination square to help posi- is illustrated in Figure 2.
dowels to reinforce the joint be- tion the corbel, I pressed it in place Finally, you can drill matching
tween the end of the corbel and the against the ledger. The dowel cen- holes in the rails for the dowels (Fig-
rails (drawing at right). This created ter presses into the wood, creating ure 3), and glue the corbels in place.
a couple of challenges.
Drill Holes. The first was drilling
holes for the dowels in the ends of
the corbels. Drilling into hard end !/2"-dia.
grain isn’t easy, especially in oak. The dowel

drill bit tends to wander off course.

The solution was to clamp each
corbel in the vise on my workbench
and use a doweling jig and a hand-
held drill to drill the hole (Figure 1).
The doweling jig guides the drill bit
and prevents it from wandering.
TRANSFER LOCATIONS. The second
Corbel
challenge was to come up with a
way to accurately transfer the loca-
tion of the holes from the corbels to
the bottom of the rail or ledger.
To do this, I simply placed a dowel Dowel Joint. Dowels are used to strengthen the joint between the end of
center in the hole I just drilled in the corbels and the rails of the library table.

1 Use doweling
2 NOTE: Table is 3 Drill hole at
turned upside-down mark left by
jig to guide dowel center
drill bit Use square to
!/2"-dia. position
drill bit corbel

!/2"-dia.
brad-
Doweling point
jig bit

Corbel

11 WoodsmithShop.com © 2011 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

 False Tenons
Making the false tenons for the
Craftsman library table posed a bit
of a challenge. Because the false
tenons are cut from end grain, you
can’t just simply cut them from a
long, narrow strip of wood.
The solution is a simple one. I
planed down a blank to match the
width of the mortise and ripped
it to match the length of the mor-
tise. Then, using a sanding block, I
rounded over the ends (Figure 1).
After cutting the false tenon free
at the table saw (Figure 2), simply
round over the ends of the blank
again to make the next tenon.

1 2
Auxiliary
Sanding fence
block Cut False tenon is glued
false #/8 into mortise and
tenon stands !/8" proud
Round over from end of surface
edges slightly of blank

!/16"
False Tenons. End grain plugs give
roundover the library table the look of through
tenons without all the work.

12 WoodsmithShop.com © 2011 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.