A master class by Yekaterina Isayeva Thank you for purchasing my master class! ’'m glad you liked my toy! Pve tried to describe the process in every detail so that you could enjoy creating this pussy cat and delight yourself and your relatives and friends. Have a pleasant knitting! Attention! The idea of this toy belongs to Bela Makayeva. This master class (MC) belongs to me and is intended for personal use only! Please do not distribute and do not copy it! You may sell your toys created with the help of my MC only provided that you give the name oft the description’s author!Materials required: - for body: any yarn containing 200-250 m per 100 g — 2 skeins (I used Alize Lanagold Classic, colour 62); - YarnArt Jeans of 2 different colours — 2 skeins of each colour (I used colours 14 and 18); - yarn for pompons (better to use chunky yarn like Alize Lanagold Maxi, | used colour 161 Powder); - circular needles No. 2.5; - double pointed needles (dpns) No. 2; - a crochet hook No. 2; - filling: hollow fiber ov artificial swan's down (1 used both); - 2 plastic jar lids (for insoles); = scissors; - brown fishing line for whiskers (0.28 mm or thicker); - needles: large and small; - 2 black beads, 4 mm; - cluster eyelashes; - black mouline thread for a mouth; — pink yarn for a nose; - MOMENT Crystal glue to attach eyelashes; - dental floss oe tightening and sewing paws on the body; - buttons for a dress and shoes; - black, pink and blue sewing threads. My pussy cat is 32 cm. Please pay attention, that the size of your toy and the quantity of materials required can vary due to density differences. )Legend (for crocheting): ch(s) — chain(s), chain stitch(es); se(s) — single crochet(s); ine — increase (work 2 ses in one stitch); dec — decrease, decreasing (work 2 scs together); sl st — slip stitch; de(s) — double crochet(s). Advice! Crochet your toy rather tight so that the filling wouldn't be visible. Head Rnd 4: work @ ses to form an amigurumi ring (6). Rnd 2: ine 6 ses (12). Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 times (18). Rnd 4: (2 ses, inc) x 6 times (24). Rnd §: (3 ses, inc) x 6 times (30). Rnd 6: (4 ses, inc) x 6 times (36). Rnd 7: (5 ses, inc) x 6 times (42). Rnd 8: (6 ses, inc) x 6 times (48). Rnd 4: (7 ses, inc) x 6 times (54). Rnd 10: (8 ses, inc) x 6 times (GO). Rnd 11: (4 ses, inc) x 6 times (66). Rnd 12: (10 ses, inc) x 6 times (72). Rnd 13: (11 ses, inc) x 6 times (78). Rnd 14: (12 ses, inc) x 6 times (84). Rnd 15: (13 secs, inc) x 6 times (90). Rnds 16-23: 90 ses (8 rounds). Rnd 24: (13 ses, dec) x 6 times (84). Rnd 25: (12 scs, dec) x 6 times (78). Rnd 26: (11 ses, dec) x 6 times (72). Rnd 27: (10 ses, dec) x 6 times (66). Rnd 28: (4 ses, dec) x 6 times (GO). Rnd 24: (8 ses, dec) x 6 times (54). Rnd 30: (7 ses, dec) x 6 times (48). ‘ (wRnd 31: (6 ses, dec) x 6 times (42). Rnd 32: (5 ses, dec) x 6 times (36). Rnd 33: (4 ses, dec) x 6 times (30). Rnd 34: (3 scs, dec) x 6 times (24). Rnd 35: (2 ses, dec, 4 ses) x 3 times (21). Rnd 36 (neck): 21 ses. Continue crocheting. Body Rnd 1: (2 ses, inc, 4 ses) x 3 times (24). Rnd 2: (3 ses, inc) x 6 times (30). Rnd 3: (4 scs, inc) x 6 times (36). Rnd 4: (5 scs, inc) x 6 times (42). Rnd 5: 42 ses.Now stuff the head with hollow fiber firmly. | advise you to use two types of filling simultaneously: hollow fiber for the head and the body (comparing to the down, hollow fiber consumption is lower, it is easier to tighten and a needle doesn't stick in it) and artificial swan's down for front and hind legs (it doesn't spring and stick out making it easier to stuff small parts).Continue crocheting the body. Rnd 6: (6 ses, inc) x 6 times (48). Rnd 7: (7 ses, inc) x 6 times (54). Rnds 8-34: 54 scs (27 rounds). Rnd 35: (7 scs, dec) x 6 times (48). Rnd 36: (6 ses, dec) x 6 times (42). Stuff the neck and a part of the body with hollow fiber. Try to stuff them firmly, without lumps, to get an even and a neat toy. Rnd 37: (5 ses, dec) x 6 times (36). Rnd 38: (4 ses, dec) x 6 times (30). Rnd 34: (3 ses, dec) x 6 times (24). Rnd 40: (2 ses, dec) x 6 times (18). Stuff the body fully. Rnd 41: (1 sc, dec) x 6 times (12). Tighten the hole using a needle and hide the end of the yarn inside the body. ©Front legs, 2 pieces Rnd 1: work @ ses to form an amigurumi ring (6). Rnd 2: ine 6 ses (12). Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 times (18). Rnds 4-7: 18 ses (4 rounds). Rnd 8: dec, 16 ses (17). Rnds 9-10: 17 ses (2 rounds). Rnd 11: dec, 15 ses (16). Rnds 12-13: 16 ses (2 rounds). Rnd 14: dec, 14 ses (15). Rnds 15-16: 15 ses (2 rounds). Rnd 17: dec, 13 ses (14). Rnds 18-19: 14 ses (2 rounds). Rnd 20: dec, 12 ses (13). Rnds 21-22: 13 ses (2 rounds). Rnd 23: dec, 11 ses (12). Rnds 24-28: 12 ses (5 rounds). Stuff with artificial swan's down. Tighten the hole using a needle and hide the end of the yarn inside the body. oe ©)Hind legs (sole), 2 pieces Rnd 1: 10 chs, inc in the 2nd chain stitch from the hook, 7 ses, 4 ses in the last chain stitch, 7 scs on the other side of the chain, inc (22). Rnd 2: inc 2, 7 ses, ine 4, 7 ses, ine 2 (30). Rnd C, ine, 14 ses, inc, 2 ses, inc, 11 ses, inc, sc (34). Rnd 4: (3 ses, inc) x 4 times, sc, (3 ses, inc) x 4 times, sc (42). Rnd 5: (4 ses, inc) x 4 times, sc, (4 ses, inc) x 4 times, sc (SO). Leave a long yarn end to sew two parts of a sole together afterwards. Hind legs (an upper part of a foot), 2 pieces Rnd 1: 10 chs, inc in the 2nd chain stitch from the hook, 7 ses, 4 ses in the last chain stitch, 7 secs on the other side of the chain, inc (22). Rnd 2: inc 2, 7 ses, ine 4, 7 ses, inc 2 (30). Rnd 3: sc, inc, 11 ses, inc, 2 ses, inc, 11 ses, inc, sc (34). Rnd 4: (3 ses, inc) x 4 times, se, (3 ses, inc) x 4 times, se (42). Rnd 5: (4 ses, inc) x 4 times, sc, (4 scs, inc) x 4 times, se (SO). Rnds 6-4: SO ses (4 rounds). Cut the yarn off. ©Now you have to make 2 insoles. For this purpose, outline the sole on a lid with a felt-tip pen and then cut it out. —After that join an upper part of a foot and a sole with a hook and don't forget to insert an insole. When there is a small hole left, fill this part firmly with the down. Then finish crocheting and fasten off the yarn.Hind legs, 2 pieces Rnd 1: cast on 17 ses on an upper part of a foot. Rnds 2-26: 17 ses (25 rounds). Rnd 27: (1 sc, dec) x 6 times (11). Stuff legs with artificial swan's down. Tighten the hole using a needle and hide the end of the yarn inside the body. Ears, 2 pieces Rnd 1: work @ ses to form an amigurumi ring (6). Rnd 2: 6 ses (6). Rnd 3: ine @ scs (12). Rnd 4: (1 sc, inc) x 6 times (18). Rnd S: (2 secs, inc) x 6 times (24). Rnds 6-4: 24 ses (4 rounds). Fold the part in two, but don't sew them together.Sew an ear on the head between rounds 3 and 4 counting from the center. Now dress the cat. Legend (for knitting) st(s) — stitch(es); k — knit (stitches); p — purl (stitches); Inc — increase (a twisted yarn over); dec — decrease, decreasing (work 2 sts together); st st — stockinette stitch (or also plain knitting) — you knit right side rows and purl wrong side rows; gst — garter stitch — you knit all the rows. The dress Knit it raglan from the top. Cast on 28 sts. Row 1: p sts. Row 2: k 4, inc 1, k 1, inc 1, k 4, ine 1, k 1, inc 1, k 8, ine 1, k 1, inc 1, k 4, inc 1, k 1, ine 1, k 4. Row 3: p sts. Row 4: k 5, inc 1, k 1, ine 1, k 6, ine 1, k 1, ine 1, k 10, ine 1, k 1, ine 1, k 6, inc 1, k 4, ine 1,k 5. Row 5: p sts. Row @:k @, inc 1, k 1, ine 1, k 8, ine 1, k 1, inc 1, k 12, ine 1, k 1, ine 1, k 8, inc 1, k 4, inc1,k 6. Row 7: p sts. Row 8: k 7, ine 1, k 1, inc 1, k 10, ine 1, k 1, ine 1, k 14, ine 1, k 1, ine 1, k 10, ine 1, k 1, ine 1,k 7. Row @: p sts. Row 10: k 8, ine 1, k 1, ine 1, k 12, inc 1, k 1, ine 1, k 16, inc 1,k 4, inc 1,k 12, inc1,k4,inc1,k 8. Row 11: p sts. Row 12: k 9, cast off 16, k 18, cast off 16, k 9. Row 13: p 4, inc 3, p 18, inc 3, p 4. Row 14: k sts. (42) NaRow 1S: p sts. Row 16: repeat (k 1, inc 1) till the end of the row. Row 17: p sts. Row 18: repeat (k 1, inc 1) till the end of the row. Row 129: p sts. Then st st approx. 83-9 cm. In the end — work 4 rows gst so that the hem of the dress wouldn't bend up. The collar Cast on 27 sts on the top hem.In the next row alternate p 1, inc 1 (53). Next 10 rows: alt k 1, p 1. Cast off stitches. Sew buttons on the back and make button loops of chain stitches on the edge.The cap Cast on 68 sts. Rows 1-4: alt k 1, p 1. Row 10: k sts. Row 11: p sts. Row 12: k 18, cast off 10, k 12, cast off 10, k 18. Row 13: p 18, inc 10, p 12, inc 10, p 18. Rows 14-37: st st (24 rows). Slip half of the stitches (34) onto the auxiliary needle. Then fold the hood in two with the front side inside.Then put the stitches to the free end of the circular needles in turn: first 1 stitch from one needle then 1 stitch from another needle and so on. When all stitches ave on circular needles, start casting them off (not by two, but by three stitches at a time).Fold the lower edge inside out at the width of 4 stitches and sew it with a rantering seam. You'll have an opening for a string. \ Make a foundation chain 65 cm long. Attach a pin to one end of the chain and then pull the string through the opening in the cap. :Now only a pompon is left and the cap is ready. The coat I knit a coat using Drops Brushed see Silk yarn. You can use any other yarn not thicker than 200 m per 100 g. Cast on 34 sts. Row 1: p sts. Row 2: k 5, ine 1, k 1, inc 1, k 5, inc 1, k 4, inc 1, k 10, ine 1,k 1, ine 1,k 5, inc 1,k 4, ine 1,k 5. Row 3: p sts. Row 4: k 6, ine 1, k 1, ine 1, k 7, ine 1, k 1, ine 1, k 12, inc 1,k 1, ine 1, k 7, ine 1, k 1, ine 1,k 6. Row 6: k 7,sine 1, k 1, ine 1, k 9, ine 1, k 1, ine 1, k 14, ine 1, k 1, ine 1, k 9, inc 1, k 1, ine 1, k 7. Row 7: p sts. Row 8: k 8, ine 1, k 1, ine 1, k 114, ine 1, k 1, inc 1, k 16, ine 1, k 1, inc 1, k 11, ine 1,k 4, ine1,k 8. Row @: p sts. Row 10: k 4, ine 1, k 1, ine 1, k 13, ine 1, k 1, ine 1, k 18, ine 1,k 1, inc 1, k 13, inc 1, k 1, ine 1, k 9. Row 11: p sts. Row 12: k 10, ine 1,k 4, inc1,k 15, inc1,k 14, ine 1, k 20, ine 1, k 1, ine 1, k 15, ine 1, k 1, inc 1, k 10. Row 13: p sts. In row 14 start knitting sleeves. For this you'll need two dpns No. 2.5. 6)Knit 12 sts (left side) and knit the next 19 sts ona dpn. Turn the knitting and purl 19 sts. Continue knitting in the same manner approx. 5 cm (I have 15 rows). Cast off the row. Cut the yarn, leaving a long end (approx. 30 cm) to sew the parts of the sleeve together. Then knit 22 stitches of the back with circular needles and slip the next 14 stitches on the dpn. Repeat the same procedure for the second sleeve. Now knit 114 sts of the right side. Row 15: p sts (44). Row 16: k sts. Row 17: p sts. Row 18: k 9, (inc 1, k 3) x 10 times, k 5 (54). Row 14: p sts. Row 20: k 10, (inc 1, k 4) x 10 times, k 4 (64). Row 21: p sts. Row 22: k 11, (inc 1, k 5) x 10 times, k 3 (74). Then st st approx. 8 cm. Work 3 last rows gst. Cast off stitches. Cut the yarn and fasten it off. Sew the parts of the sleeves together with mattress stitch seam.The hood Row 1: cast on 34 sts along the edge. Row 2: repeat (p 1, inc 1) till the end of the row. Then st st 15 cm. Cast off the same way you did for the cap. Cut the yarn and fasten it oft You can sew on a button and make a button loop to be able to fasten the coat. | desided to use strings. Make a foundation chain 65 cm long. Pull it witha hook in points where increases for the hood were made. Strings are ready.Pants (crochet) Rnd 1: 6O des. Rnds 2-13: 60 des (12 rounds). OB Rnd 14: 24 des, join the 24th de with the 1st dc, leave a long end and cut the yarn (for sewing the lower part of the pants). Skip @ sts from the first de and cast on 24 des for the second pant leg. Again join the 24th de with the 1st de. Sew the lower part with the end of the yarn you left. Fasten off the yarn.Shoes (insoles) Rnd 1: 10 chs, inc in the 2nd chain stitch from the hook, 7 ses, 4 ses in the last chain stitch, 7 ses on the other side of the chain, inc (22). Rnd 2: inc 2, 7 ses, ine 4, 7 ses, ine 2 (30). Rnd 3: sc, inc, 11 ses, inc, 2 ses, inc, 11 ses, inc, se (34). Rnd 4: (3 ses, inc) x 4 times, sc, (3 ses, inc) x 4 times, S¢ (42). Rnd 5: (4 ses, inc) x 4 times, sc, (4 ses, inc) x 4 times, se (50). Rnd 6: (5 ses, inc) x 4 times, sc, (5 scs, inc) x 4 times, se (58). Leave a long yarn end to sew two parts of a shoe together afterwards. Shoes (the upper part) Cast on 6O sts on the dpn and divide them by 15 sts per a needle. Join the last and the first stitches and knit in the round. Rows 1-7: k sts.Row 8: k 18, (dec, k 2) x 6 times, k 18. Row 9: k 18, (dec, k 1) x 6 times, k 18. Row 10: k 18, dec x @ times, k 18. Row 11: k 18, dec x 3 times, k 18. Rows 12-14: p sts. Row 15: k 8, cast off 23, k 8. The knitting of the right and the left shoes will slightly differ. The left shoe Row 15: k 8, cast off 23, k 8 (you have already knitted this one). Row 16: p 8 and then continue knitting turning the rows. Row 17: p 16, cast on 15 sts. Row 18: p sts. Row 14: p 26, cast off 2, p 3. Row 20: p 3, cast on 2, p 26. Rows 21-22: p sts. Cast off your work, cut the yarn and fasten it off. @)The right shoe Row 15: k 8, cast off 23, k 8 (you have already knitted this one). Row 16: p 8, cast on 15 sts (twisted yarn overs) and then continue knitting turning the rows (31). Rows 17-18: p sts. Row 14: p 3, cast off 2, p 26. Row 20: p 26, cast on 2, p 3. Rows 21-22: p sts. Cast off your work, cut the yarn and fasten it off. Using a sewing needle, sew the upper and the lower parts of the shoes together. Befove doing this, | advise you to put the main part on a leg.Pompons | don't use a special tool to make pompons. Wind the desired quantity of yarn round 4 fingers (l used Alize Lanagold Maxi). Ba Carefully take the winding off your fingers and bind it several times with the end of the same yarn. Cut the made loops on all sides. Now you have this pompon workpiece.Now you have to trim the pompon, which is the most important and laborious step :) You'll need 3 pompons. Then sew them on the cap and on both shoes.To form a face you need to mark 4 spots. Count 16 rounds from the beginning of your work (an amigurumi ring) and put 2 needles at a distance of 3 sts from one another between rounds 16 and 17. Then count 15 rounds from these needles downwards and put 2 needles at a distance of 1 st from one another right under the upper needles. Now tighten these spots using the main yarn and a dental floss according to the scheme. Press the upper spots (places for eyes) — if necessary ask someone to help you — and then make 2-3 tight knots. Cut the yarn and hide it inside using a needle.TSew the eyes on the face.To make a mouth, pull the needle under the eyes, where the nose will be, and then insert the needle below (in the place that you marked with lower needles). Pull the yarn out under the ear and fasten it carefully. To make a nose it's enough to make approx. 10 stitches. If your crocheting was too tight and it's difficult to insert and pull the needle, you can use flat pliers.Then glue the eyelashes. Our pussy cat has finally come to life! To make whiskers Prepare 8 pieces of a fishing line, 15 cm each. Make 2 knots in the middle of every piece.Insert a needle as shown in the photo. The sharp end of the needle should point in the direction in which the whisker “grows: Try to insert the needle into the center of a stitch rather than between the stitches, so that the whisker wouldn't slip out. Insert two ends of a fishing line and then pull them with a needle through the right place. Tug a whisker! If it's fastened tightly then you have done everything correctly :)Make a whisker on the other side in the same way. Put on the cap, fit the ears one more time and then sew them to the head with a sewing thread (match the colour of a thread to that of the yarn). Assembly Pull the yarn between rounds 4 and 5 of the front leg (see photo). Then insert the needle between rounds 8 and 4 of the body and sew through. :In the same way pull the yarn through the second front leg and return to the same point of the body where the yarn comes out. Pull the yarn to the opposite side. Make 2—3 tight knots, cut the yarn and hide it inside using a needle.Now put the pants on the hind legs and sew the legs to the body. Pull the yarn between rounds 5 and 6 of the hind leg (see photo). Then insert the needle between rounds 11 and 12 of the body (counting from the bottom) exactly under the front leg and sew through.Act in the same way with the second hind leg, inserting the needle in the body one stitch from the point where it has come out. Tighten the ends of the yarn and make 3 knots. Cut the yarn and hide the ends inside. The pussy cat is almost ready — you only have to dress it now!Your pussy cat is ready! | hope that creating this toy was a pleasure and you will use this MC more than once to make more toys! Sincerely yours, Yekaterina Isayeva Important! | advise you against washing the toy! Dry cleaning is preferable. The clothes, however, can be washed by hand in a warm soapy water without wringing. They need line drying (in a vertical position). IF you have any questions concering my MC, please feel free to contact me online on VKontakte (https://vk.com/isaeva_toys), Odnoklassniki (ok.ru/isaeva.toys), Instagram (@isaeva_toys) or e-mail (klyuevakatyao2@mail.ru).