LAB REPORT

Course Code:AME-412
Course Title :Apparel Manufacturing III Laboratory

Experiment No: 01
Experiment Name:Study on Garments Normal Wash.

Introduction
Normal wash is most common and popular washing process in the apparel
industry. After establishing the manufacturing process, garments need to wash
for avoiding shrinkage and removing adhering dirt, dust, etc. from garments.
Therefore, normal wash is almost mandatory from every buyer. In garments
industry, normal wash is known as different names such as detergent wash, rinse
wash, common wash, etc. Now I would like to discuss normal garments wash
according to the industrial washing process.

Objects of Normal Wash:

The primary object of normal wash is to desizing and increasing the cleanliness
of garments and the secondary object of normal wash is to make a soft hand
feel effect and desired fading effect.
Normal wash is required for the following reasons:-

1. To remove dust, dirt, oil spot, impurities from the garments.

2. To remove size materials from the garments.
3. To remove starch presents on the garment fabrics.
4. For soft feeling to wear the garments after purchasing.
5. To achieve buyer washing standard.

Flow Chart of Normal Wash:

Every washing process should be maintained a working procedure. Here given

common washing process in the garment industry.

Desizing
↓
Rinse Washing
↓
Softening
↓
Hydro extraction
↓
Drying
Industrial Washing Machines

Washing Process of Normal Wash:

Load the garments in the machine. A Batch of 100 kg cotton garments in the
normal wash process is described below-

1st Step: (Desizing)

▪ Lot size: 100 kg cotton garment.
▪ Water add @ L: R = 1: 5 of 500 – 600 Liter.
▪ Run the machine.
▪ Detergent add @ 1 mg / liter.
▪ Temperature: Supply steam to raise temperature @ 40°c – 60°c.
▪ Time: 15 to 30 minute.
▪ Drop the liquor.
▪ Cold wash.
▪
2nd Step: (Rinse wash)
▪ Water add @ L: R = 1: 5 of 480 liter.
▪ Run the machine.
▪ Temperature: Raise temperature up to 40°c ▪ Time: 5 minute.
▪ Drop the liquor.
3rd Step: (Softening)
▪ Water add @ L: R = 1: 5 of 500 Liter.
▪ Run the machine.
▪ Silicon/Flax softener add @ 0.1 – 0.5 mg / liter.
▪ Temperature: Supply steam to raise temperature @ 20°c – 30°c.
▪ Time: 5 to 10 minute.
▪ Drop the liquor.
4th Step: (Hydro extraction)

Load the garments in hydro extractor machine.

▪ This machine remove excess water from the garments.

▪ Running time of hydro extractor is 2-3 minute.

5th Step: (Drying)

Unload from hydro extractor and load to dryer.
▪ Dry garments by gas dryer or steam dryer.
▪ Running the machine.
▪ Temperature: 70°c – 80°c.
▪ Time: 20 to 30 minute.

Conclusion :
By doing this experiment, We have to learned about the normal
wash of garments & how to applied it Garments fabrics. This
experiment Will be helpful in our job life.

LAB REPORT

Course Code:AME-412
Course Title :Apparel Manufacturing III Laboratory
Experiment No: 02
Experiment Name:Calculate the fabric consumption for a basic shirt.

Introduction:
To determine fabric consumption of any garments we face many problems with
memorizing problem of equation. So, here presenting a simple way of fabric
consumption determination system of dress shirt which may be helpful for all of us.

Basic parts of dress shirt:

 Fig: Anatomy of Dress
Shirt

1. Main body

2. Sleeve

3. Collar

4. Cuff

5. Pocket

6. Placket Box

7. Top Centre
Formula:
For evaluating fabric consumption, there is nothing to memorize any formula of fabric
consumption determination. It’s all about calculation sense. If we know about the area
calculation of a rectangle than I want to say that we also know about the calculation of
fabric consumption.
For determination of fabric consumption of any parts of a woven shirt, we have to take
reading length and maximum width of this part of shirt. And then we have to multiply
length with width to find out the area of fabric required of this part and other should be
followed as unit terms.

Measurement of a dress shirt (inch):

(on which shirt I am working, you can try your one)

1. Centre Back length = 30”

2. Chest = 46”

3. Sleeve Length = 24”

4. Arm hole = 20”

5. Collar Length = 16”

6. Collar height = 4”

7. Pocket Length = 6”

8. Pocket width = 5.5”

9. Cuff Length = 9”

10. Cuff width = 3”

11. Across Back = 20”

12. Yoke Height = 4”

13. Top centre width = 1.5”

14. Top centre Length = 28”

For Body required fabric: {(Centre Back Length + allowance) *(Chest + allowance)} *12
inch2

= {(30+2) *(46+3)} *12 inch2

= 33*49*12 inch2
= 19404 inch2
For sleeve required fabric: {(Sleeve length+allowance) * (Arm hole + allowance)} *2*12
inch2

= {(24+2) *(20+2)} *2*12 inch2

= 26*22*2*12 inch2
= 13728 inch2

For collar required fabric: {(collar length + allowance) * (collar width + allowance)} *12
inch2

= {(16+2) *(4+2)} *12 inch2

= 18*6*12 inch2
= 1296 inch2

For pocket required fabric: {(Pocket Length + allowance) *(Pocket width + allowance)
*12 inch2

= {(6+1) *(5.5+1)} *12 inch2

= 7*6.5*12 inch2 =
546 inch2

For Cuff required fabric: {(Cuff length + allowance) *(cuff width + allowance)} *12 inch2

= {(9+1) *(3+1)} *12 inch2

= 10*4*12 inch2
= 480 inch2

For Back Yoke required fabric: {(Across back + allowance) *(yoke height + allowance)}
*12 inch2
= {(20+1) *(4+1)} *12 inch2
= 21*5*12 inch2
= 1260 inch2

For top centre required fabric: {(top centre length+allowance) *(top centre width +
allowance)} *12 inch2
= {(28+2) *(1.5+1)} *12 inch2
= 30*2.5*12 inch2
= 900 inch2

Total fabric Area (Sum of above value): (19404+13728+1296+546+480+1260+900) inch 2

= 37614 inch2

Let,
Fabric width: 56”
Marker Width: 55”

So, Fabric required = 37614/55 inch

= 684 inch
= 684/36 yds/dz =
19 yds/dz

So, Fabric consumption,

= 19 yds/dz+7%(wastage %)
= 19+7% of 19 yds/dz
= 19 + 1.33 yds/dz
= 19/12 yds/piece =
1.58 yds/piece

For 1000pcs,Fabric consumption will be (1.58×1000) = 1580 Yards

Conclusion:
Consumption determination is a very important term in the garments section. Thought
fabric covers the greatest part of garments costing, so we should have better knowledge
about fabric consumption determination.
 LAB REPORT

Course Code:AME-412
Course Title :Apparel Manufacturing III Laboratory

Experiment No: 03
Experiment Name:Calculate the fabric consumption for a Basic
Pant(Woven Denim)

Introduction
To calculate woven fabric consumption for Woven basic Pant (Denim) first we
need to understand the measurements related to it. Let’s consider pants basic
measurement as below from Product specification sheet:
Normally, a woven bottom consists of the following parts- 1.
Body parts,
2. Pocket,
3. Pocketing Fabrics,
4. Belt Loop.

Followthebelowmeasurementchart.

1.Formula to calculate body fabric consumption in yards:

= (Pant Length X ½ Thai)X Number of Parts X12 Yards/Dozen
Fabric width X 36

Fabric width on roll found 57 inches but we must have to deduct 1 inch as
cutting allowance

Now, we input value on formula:

= (55.5 X 15)X 4 X12 Yrds/Dozen
56 X 36
= 19.82 yds/dz

2. Formula to calculate Back Pocket fabric consumption in yrds:

= Back pocket Length X Back pocket width X Number of Back Pocket
X12 Yards/Dozen
Fabric width X 36
= 7X6.5X2X12 Yrds/Dozen
56 X 36
= 0.54 Yrds/Dozen

3. Formula to calculate Belt loop fabric consumption:

= Belt loop height X Belt loop width X Number of parts Number of loop
X12 Yards/Dozen
Fabric width X 36
= 2 X 1 X2X 6 X12 Yrds/Dozen
56X 36
=0.14 Yrds/Dozen

4. Formula to calculate Front pocket fabric consumption:

= Pocket Length X Pocket width X Number of parts X Number of Pocket X12
Yards/Dozen
Fabric width X 36
= 8X 7 X 2 X2X12 Yrds/Dozen
 56 X 36
=1.33 Yds/dz

Now we can calculate total fabric consumption for woven Denim pant
=19.82+0.54+0.14+1.33
=21.83
=22.92 (Added 5% wastage)
So, Total fabric consumption for per dozen Woven denim pant is 24.59 yds

Conclusion:
By doing this experiment we have to learned about how to calculated fabric
consumption for a basic pant.
This way we can calculate fabric consumption for any quantity.

LAB REPORT
Course Code:AME-412
Course Title :Apparel Manufacturing III Laboratory

Experiment No: 04
Experiment Name:Study on Enzyme wash on Denim
Garments.

Introduction
Enzyme washing or enzyme wash is a bio-catalytic method where an ultra-soft
handle effect can be produced on garments. The hydrolytic effect of the enzyme
causes the loss of surface fiber, which improves surface smoothness and
softness of the Garments. Cellulose enzymes are natural proteins that are used
in garments washing to achieve a stone wash look on the garments without using
any stones or by reducing the use of pumice stone. Cellulose enzymes remove
the indigo presents in the surface layer of fiber.
 Enzyme washed Ripped denim jeans Objectives

of Enzyme wash:
1. To remove the starch present on the garments.
2. To remove the size material from the garments.
3. For soft feeling to wear the garments.
4. For increasing the color fastness and rubbing fastness.
5. To improve the anti-pilling properties.
6. To achieve a very smooth surface of the garments

After completing enzyme washing, the following change must occur for the
garments

1. Color,
2. GSM decrease,
3. Softener,
4. Strength.

Process flow chart of Enzyme wash

 Loading of garments

↓
Desizing

↓
Rinse (Two times)

↓
Addition of enzyme

↓
Adjusting pH for Acid Cellulase or enzyme (4.5-5.5) by adding Acetic acid (CH 3COOH).

↓
The required temperature kept for different enzyme

↓
Tumbling for 30-60 minutes (depending on shade)

↓
Rinse (two times)

↓
Softening

↓
Extracting

↓
Drying

Process of Enzyme Wash:

There are two types of enzyme are used in the garment washing process. One is neutral
enzyme and another is acid enzyme. Neutral enzyme is working in pH 6.5 to 7.5 on the
other hand acid, enzyme works in pH 4.5 to 5.5 Enzyme is a living bio-chemical and also
sensitive which is not alive below 15 °c and above 55 °c. The total washing process of
enzyme wash is done in four steps. Which are discarded as following-
1. Desizing
2. Bio-abrasion
3. Back was
4. Additional Bleaching
First Step (Desizing):
Desizing is the first step of enzyme wash. This step is use for removing dirt, dust and
other foreign martials from garments surface. Here also using wetting agent to hard the
garments.
▪ Water add @ L: R = 1: 5 ▪ Run the machine.
▪ Desizing agent add @ 0.5 to 2 mg / liter.
▪ Wetting agent add @ 0.2 to 0.5 mg / liter.
▪ Temperature: 50°c to 70°c.
▪ Time: 10 to 15 minute.
▪ Drop the liquor.
▪ Cold Wash.
▪

Second Step (Bio-abrasion):

In this step hairy fibers are removed and coloring materials are also removed by the
activity of enzyme. If more fading is required then stone has to be used at half the volume
of garments.
▪ Water add @ L: R = 1: 5 ▪ Run the machine.
▪ Anti back staining add @ 0.2 to 2 mg / liter.
▪ Acid Enzyme add @ 0.6 to 2% ▪ pH for acid enzyme” 4.5 to 5.5 ▪
Temperature: 45°c to 55°c.
 ▪ Time: 40 to 95 minute.
▪ Drop the liquor.
▪ Cold Wash.

Third Steps (Back Wash):

This step is done to resist the activity of enzyme. In this step all the enzyme be dead due
to high temperature. Then this dead enzymes and coloring material and other impurities
are removed from the garments by dropping the liquor and dye again a rise wash by
following process.
▪ Water add @ L: R = 1: 5 ▪ Run the machine.
▪ Anti back staining add @ 1 to 3 mg / liter.
▪ Soda ash add @ 0.3 mg / liter.
▪ Temperature: 70°c to 80°c.
▪ Time: 5 to 10 minute. ▪ Drop the liquor ▪ Rinse Wash.

Forth Step (Additional Bleaching):

This step is not mandatory part of enzyme wash. In this process garments be more faded.
If any further fading effect is required then this step is done by following process. In this
stage use sodium Meta bi-sulphite which help to resist yellow effect on garments.
▪ Water add @ L: R = 1: 5 ▪ Run the machine.
▪ sodium Meta bi-sulphite add @ 1 to 2 mg / liter.
▪ Sodium hypochlorite add @ 0.5 to 5 mg / liter.
▪ Temperature: 40°c to 50°c.
▪ Time: 10 to 20 minute. ▪ Drop the liquor.
▪ Normal Wash
After Appling the above garment washing process drop the liquor and unload the
garments and hydro extracted. At last garments are dried by gas dryer or steam dryer. If
any other wash is required from the buyer then this garment is subjected to the other
washing process.

Conclusion
By doing this experiment, we have to learned about Enzyme wash & how to applied this
process on denim garments.It will be very helpful in our future job life.
 LAB REPORT

Course Code:AME-412
Course Title :Apparel Manufacturing III Laboratory

Experiment No: 05
Experiment Name:Study on Caustic Wash in Garments.

Introduction
Caustic washing is used to remove corrosive and pungent sulfur compounds from poor
quality crude oil so that it can be blended into petrol and diesel. Generally, Caustic wash
is done on printed garments, sulfur dye, reactive dye, or direct dyed garments. Caustic
wash used to remove the size materials and the starch from the garments. It also increases
the garments’ hairiness. And also increases the rubbing fastness and also colorfastness.
Process Flow Chart of Caustic Wash is as follow:

Caustic Washed
shirt

Flow chart of Caustic Washing :

BATCHING
↓
LOADING
↓
DESIZING (IF NECESSARY)
 ↓
CAUSTIC WASH
↓
NEUTRALIZATION
↓
FINISHING /SOFTENING
↓
DRYING

Caustic wash is a new concept in the market trend. According to market demand &
fashion garments industry does different types of wash. Caustic wash is one of them. So,
the caustic wash is becoming more popular in the garment industry. Caustic wash is the
pre-printing wash. It is a strong chemical with highly acidic feathers. It is the solution of
caustic soda to remove impurities. Basically, it is doing as a reactive dye, sulfur dye &
direct dye & printed garment.

Purposes of Caustic Wash

1. Remove dirt, dust, oil, impurities which are come from the stitching & back
process
2. Can increase the luster of fabric strength
3. Can increase the hairiness of garments.
4. Particular fading wash can be achieved
5. Partially size material is removed more than normal or pigment wash
6. Good hand feeling.
7. Can improve the color fastness & rubbing fastness. 8. Increase the vintage
or old-looking appearance
9. Can increase the comfort of garments.

Caustic washing process:

The washing procedure follows the bellow mentioned steps.

First Step:
Supposed a lot size 80kg garments.
 1. Add water at L: R = 1: 8………….. 640 liter
2. Machine Running.
3. Add Caustic soda (NAOH) at 1.60 gm / liter ……. 1024 gm.
4. Add Detergent………….. at 0.8 gm / liter ……… 432 gm.
5. Temperature……….. 50°c to 60°c.
6. Time (Depend upon the shade) ……. 20 to 60 min.
7. Drop the liquor.
8. Wash cold water for 3 min. Second Step: Neutral wash

1. Add water at L: R = 1: 5 ……… 400 liter.

2. Add Acetic Acid at 1 gm / liter …………. 400 gm.
3. Time…………………………….. 5 min.
4. Here acetic acid is used to neutralize the garments from alkaline medium

Third Step:
1. Add water at L: R = 1: 6………….. 480 liter
2. Machine Running.
3. Add Acetic Acid at 0.5 gm / liter ………… 240 gm.
4. Add Flax softener at 0.6 gm / liter……….. 288 gm.
5. If more soft use silicon at 0.6 gm / liter … 288 gm.
6. Time………………………….. 10 to 20 min.
7. Drop the liquor.
8. Unload the garments on trolley

Fourth Step: Hydro- extractor machine.

Hydro-extraction the garments to remove excess water from the Garments. Time required
about 2 – 4 minutes.

Fifth Step: Steam dryer/Gas dryer

1. Load on steam dryer – 50 kg
2. Running the machine
3. Temperature – 60°c – 70°c
4. Time – 40 – 50 min for dry.
 5. Time – 10 – 15 min for cold dry.

OR,

1. Load on gas dryer – 50 kg,

2. Running the machine
3. Temperature: – 70°c – 85°c for dry.
4. Time: – 30 – 35 min for dry.
5. Time: – 10 – 15 min for cold dry.

Sixth Step:
After drying garments go to quality section and check the garment, good quality garment
will be delivery and Deep shade again rewash, other quality Garment rectify then
delivery.

Conclusion
By doing this experiment, we have to known about Caustic wash & how to applied it on
the fabric.
Obviously it will be helpful in our job life.