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PESTOVANIE HL’UZOVIEK V MAD’ARSKU – MINULOST’,

SÚČASNOST’ A BUDÚCNOST’
TRUFFLE CULTIVATION IN HUNGARY –PAST, PRESENT
AND FUTURE

Andrea Gógán1, Zoltán Bratek2, Judit Dimény1, Gábor Bujáki1,

(1) Szent István University, Department of Horticultural Technology,


H-2103 Gödöllő, Páter Károly utca 1., gogan.andrea@mkk.szie.hu
(2) Eötvös University, Department of Plant Physiology and Molecular Plant Biology,
H-1117 Budapest, Pázmány Péter sétány 1/C,

Keywords: truffle cultivation, Tuber spp. Mattirolomyces terfezioides

Summary: From the ancient times truffles are valued as precious gastronomic delicacies. Mainly in European
countries (e.g. France, Italy, Spain and Hungary) there is a tradition of truffle collection, trade and consumption.
Besides this, research on truffle cultivation has already started. Wide scale researches have been elaborated on the
technologies of black truffle (Tuber melanosporum) and of burgundy truffle (Tuber uncinatum). Investigations are
being carried out on the cultivation of other, similarly valuable truffle species, such as Tuber macrosporum and
Tuber borchii. In Hungary numerous truffle species are considered be suitable for cultivation, such as Tuber
uncinatum, Tuber macrosporum, Tuber borchii and Mattirolomyces terfezioides which only occurs in the Carpathian
basin.

INTRODUCTION

The consumption of truffles - according to our knowledge in the topic - started in ancient
times and was typical in some regions of the Mediterranean basin [8]. From the medieval times
truffles became also widespread in the gastronomy of northern countries, which can be traced
easily in the French and Hungarian cookery books of the period.
The first occasion of mentioning truffles in the Carpathian basin can be found in the order
of the magistrate of Trencseny in 1588 [8]. In his book “Posoni Kert” in 1664 János Lippay
wrote about the conservation of summer truffle (Tuber aestivum) [12]. The book of Mátyus “Ó-
és Új Dietetika” first informs us about the presence of Hungarian white truffle (Choiromyces
meandriformis) in the Carpathian basin [13]. Dienes Pák not only writes about different truffle
species in his book but also mentions how to train truffle hunter dogs [15].
Besides the collection, trade and consumption of truffles scientific work also started in the
nineteenth century. The most famous researcher of the period was László Hollós, who described
52 truffle species in Hungary and prepared the first truffle-map in the Carpathian basin [8]. After
the Second World War, László Szemere resuscitated the forgotten world of truffles [16].
In these times truffle cultivation started in France, but despite the significant scientific
work of Hollós and Szemere, truffle cultivation in Hungary only gathered ground in the late
twentieth century.

TRADITIONS IN TRUFFLE CULTIVATION

At the beginning of the 1800s Talon brothers succeeded in cultivating truffle with a direct
method called nature-imitation technique. According to this method acorns were sown under
truffle-producing oaks then seedlings were picked and planted out [8].
The method of Talon spread rapidly and truffle plantations were established in the French
countryside. The dispersion of truffle farms was helped by an another factor: in the late 1800s an
unknown parasite appeared in the European vineyards, the vine-pest, destroying whole vineyards
all over France. In the place of vineries truffle orchards were established. In this period truffle
cultivation in other European countries has not been started.
The two World Wars caused severe damages in the truffle cultivation of France. With the
help of non-profit associations established in the 50s and research started in the 60s, truffle
cultivation showed fast recovery. As a result of cultivation technology research carried out in the
last decades truffle plantations were established in many European countries.

TRUFFLE SPECIES OF EUROPEAN PLANTATIONS

More than 1000 hypogean mushrooms occur in the World, but only a dozen have economic
and gastronomic value. Most of them belong to the Tuber genus and are produced in Europe. The
most valuable and appreciated species are the Périgord black truffle (Tuber melanosporum) and
the white truffle (Tuber magnatum). Besides them, a less important but cultivated truffle is the
burgundy truffle (Tuber uncinatum) [6, 7] and experiments are carried out with winter truffle
(Tuber brumale), Tuber borchii and Tuber macrosporum [19].
The most famous truffle is the Périgord black truffle and therefore it is cultivated in the
biggest area in the world [11]. It is produced in the southern parts of Europe (Northern Spain,
South of France, North-Italy) and occurs also in Portugal, Yugoslavia and Bulgaria. In Hungary
specimens of Tuber melanosporum have not been found yet. Prices of the most common truffles
are mentioned in Table 1.

Species Price (US


$/kg)
Périgord black truffle (Tuber melanosporum) 300-450
(produced in Europe)
Périgord black truffle (Tuber melanosporum) 770
(produced in the USA)
Périgord black truffle (Tuber melanosporum) 1450
(produced in New Zealand)
White truffle (Tuber magnatum) >1000
Burgundy truffle (Tuber uncinatum) 100-180
Summer truffle (Tuber aestivum) 50-100
Chinese truffle (varous species) 50-120

Table 1. Price of different truffle species [1, 11, 14]

ECONOMICALLY IMPORTANT TRUFFLE SPECIES OF HUNGARY

Burgundy truffle (Tuber uncinatum): Fruiting period: July and October-November [2]. In
its natural habitats the soil is neutral or weakly basic with a high CaCO3 and high humus content
[4] unlike French results where pH and lime content was higher [6]. In Hungary Burgundy truffle
occurs in areas of continental climatic effect in well-drained soils. This truffle could be important
in the afforestation of deep valleys occasionally with sodic soil. In France cultivation technology
of Burgundy truffle is known [6,5].
Tuber macrosporum: Fruiting period: from September to February [2]. Soil demand of this
truffle is medium heavy, basic soils. It occurs mainly in valleys and river banks, sometimes in
temporarily water-covered places. This truffle can be important in afforestation of floodlands and
establishment of gallery forests. Its cultivation technology is in experimental stage.

Tuber borchii: Fruiting period: from August to March [2]. Typical truffle of lime-free soils
with a low pH. It occurs in mountains in its natural habitats. Experiments for cultivation
technologies are carried out in Italy [17, 18].

Mattirolomyces terfezioides: Fruiting period: from August to November [2]. Although this
hypogean mushroom does not belongs to the Tuber genus, due to its fragrance and deliciousness
its gastronomic value is unique. The “terfess” occurs solely in alcalic, lime-free sandy soils
covered by Robinia pseudoacacia forests. Its occurrence is limited to the sandy soils brought by
the Danube to the Carpathian basin [9, 10, 3].

PERSPECTIVES

In the near future Hungarian agriculture will not only determined by profitability but also
by other factors. With the EU accession of our country strong emphasis will be laid on new
cultivation methods which represent multiple values. Primarily, alternative and sustainable
agricultural technologies will be suggested in areas where intensive technologies prove to be
uneconomic due to degradation or erosion. Furthermore, these new technologies offer work
opportunities for people living in less-developed regions and a possibility to improve their living
conditions. Truffle production is one of these new cultivation methods. Additionally, it means an
unexploited branch of agri-sylviculture in Hungary.

REFERENCES

1. ANONYMUS 2000: The Mushroom Grower’s Newsletter. Klamath Falls. Oregon. 9(4).
2. BAGI I., BERECZ B., BRATEK Z., HALÁSZ K. 2000: A leggyakoribb hazai szarvasgombák termőideje az
eddigi adatok szerint. Fekete gyémánt 1(2): 11.
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pseudoacacia) and Terfezia terfezioides. Mycorrhiza 6: 271-274.
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preferences. Actes du Ve Congrès International, Science et Culture de la Truffe et des autres Champignons
Hypoges Comestibles. 4 au 6 mars 1999, Aix-en-Provence, France, Federation Française des Trufficulteurs
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tapasztalatok nyomán). Fekete Gyémánt 4 (4): 13-17.
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Cedex.
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10. KIRÁLY I., BRATEK Z., ALBERT L., LUKÁCS Z. 1992b: A homoki szarvasgomba /Terfezia terfezioides/.
Mikol. Közl. 31 (1): 49-54.
11. LEFEVRE CH. K., HALL I. R. 2001: The status of truffle cultivation: a global perspective In: Proceedings of
the Vth Congress on Hazelnut. Ed. S. A. Mehlenbacher, Acta Hort. 556, ISHS 2001.
12. LIPPAY J. 1664: Posoni Kert. vol. II. Szarvasgomba. Bécs, 1664., pp. 216-217.
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cultivation of edible fungi, Vol. 2. Van Griensven L.J.L.D. (ed.). Balkema, Rotterdam, Netherlands, pp.
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15. PÁK D. 1829: Vadászattudomány. Budán 1829. pp. 100-10.
16. SZEMERE L. 1970: Föld alatti gombavilág. Mezőgazdasági kiadó, Budapest.
17. TANFULLI M., GIOVAGNOTTI E., DONNINI D., BACIARELLI F. L. 2001: Analisi della micorrizazione in
tartufaie coltivate di Tuber aestivum Vittad. e Tuber borchii Vittad. Impiantate da oltre 12 anni ambienti
pedoclimatici diversi. Actes du Ve Congrès International, Science et Culture de la Truffe et des autres
Champignons Hypoges Comestibles. 4 au 6 mars 1999, Aix-en-Provence, France, Federation Française des
Trufficulteurs pp. 8.480-484.
18. VINAY M., PIRAZZI R. 2001: Realta’ed esigenze per la coltivazione di Tuber borchii Vittad. e Tuber
aestivum Vittad. nell’Italia Centrale. Actes du Ve Congrès International, Science et Culture de la Truffe et
des autres Champignons Hypoges Comestibles. 4 au 6 mars 1999, Aix-en-Provence, France, Federation
Française des Trufficulteurs pp. 7.425-430.
19. ZAMBONELLI A., IOTTIL M., ROSSI I., HALL I. 2000: Interactions between Tuber borchii and other
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