i chapter 6 Saas CST and\Soups: 9Chapter 6 | Stocks, Sauces, and Soups ptown Grille hgs been open for dinner for two years. Linda thinks that if they offgr 4 |unch menu, they might attract new clientele— people who might be hesitant to try them out for dinner, given their trendy, upscale replitation. Linda has conducted jlesearch on the local lunch market and knows that there is an audjence for this service—individuals, local volunteer groups, and business people. In addition, she has canvassed their “regulars” to see might be an appealing menu format. Most were enthusiastic abolit the plan, suggesting that she offer a menu that draws attention to their fine dining, yet is relatively affordable. Uptown Grille started fo offer lunch in March on Wednesdays through Saturdays. Linda ad Chef Jean have created a limited, yet reason- ably priced menu, fpelising on fine soups and assorted companion dishes, such as appptifers, breads, and seasonal salads. The five daily soups range from drgpnic, low-fat vegetable to cream of asparagus to bouillabaisse. The appetizers are varied. Some include fish, some include meat, somd alle vegetarian. The salad dressings for the vari- ous salads range frpm oil and vinegar to spicy sesame. Alll in all, Linda thinks there ty mething for everyone. Now, it is May...tw® ntonths later. After an initial spurt, business has slowed down. The dustomers have mostly responded positively to the quality and flavor o} "4 food, the service, and the prices. Linda is not sure why they aren't doing better. As you read this chapter, think about the following questions: 1. What problems ti ht Uptown Grille face with the menu selection? 2. What can Linda 3. Other than the menty, service, and price, what do you think might impact the volunje pf business? lo fo retain and bring in new customers?i Wim eyqeyall-)| ssiona [profe: Chapter 6 | Foundations of Restaurant Management & Culinary Peete ata STS eae Certified Master Chef, Teacher, Author, TV Personality CC. Cooking and baking is an art, a science, and a way Peres. Iwas always fascinated by the culinary arts. In 1947, a cook in the Rw ae Re a cee RS enum duced me to the exciting possibilities of the cooking professinn enka | started my career with an apprenticeship in Munich, Germa ty. After that, | had extensive experiences in hotel kitchens, includ ng Executive Chef at the Sheraton Hotel in New York City. I beceme a teacher at the Culinary nstitute of America in 1968, and retired from the institute as (ulinary Dean in 2002. Oe aC Me aan aE a oe ee Ree eh a OT Aa dN eed ede aa ean Pe LEU eee en hee tet wm ae mie Renn te RMN eae ce mre et meh tearoom Meum eee eee a al For those of you interested in pursuing culinary arts, let me ‘ell you a little story. When | started my apprenticeship, | worked for a top professional, Ch2f Anna Eichner. | wasn't terribly serious about my assignments. First, | had to clean the walls and floor of the meat refrigerator every day. Instead, | started a poker game. Of ccw'se, | got caught! After that, | Ree ee pee on eee But when boredom set in, | started throwing eggs into a citce cn the door. And yes, you guessed it. Caught again! My last chance was to clean the stove and start the fire every day, which meant going to work at 3 a.m. To do this, | used an .1cic! chemical that is normally Renn ir oe ee Reese Cree oc ny fire. Then, it started to corrode in front of my eyes. Chef Ania called me a very long list of unflattering names...but it made me realize that I had to chayje ry behavior. Saar ee Se ko eae rien sek nb attitudes. Never regret your past mistakes. Change them, end help others to overcome i eee keene Pe OCCUR ACR CE UR cuee eg ee ele ed oe creel onion soup. It is simple, but needs all of the passion and covikirg knowledge of a masterSern ees See ees + Preparing bones for stock Chapter 6 | Stocks, Sauces, and Soups 2 Sauces \. 63Soups ‘Grand sauces = Basic kinds of soup ‘Basic ingredients in sauces += Preparing soup Preparing diferent kinds of ‘Matching sauces to food SECTION 6.1 STOCKS Stocks are an imy ingredient in mi make a great sot ‘orfant part of any professional kitchen. Stock is an essential yy foups and sauces. If you can make a great stock, you can ahd sauce. When preparing stocks, flavor, clarity, and body are most important! Study Question: After studying Sqctign 6.1, you should be able to answer the following questions: ‘= What are the four essential parts of a stock and the proper ingredients for each? = What are theWvatious types of stock and their specific ingredients? = What are thethipe methods for preparing bones for stock? = What are the|ingredients for several types of stock? © How and why do you degrease stock? = What is the projfer way in which to cool stock? The Essential Parts of Stock ‘There are four e ‘A major flav A liquid, mos eiftial parts to all stocks: ring ingredient often water Mirepoix (mger]/PWAH) AromaticsChapter 6 | Foundations of Restaurant Management & Culinary Arts 370 Mirepoix is a French word that refers to the mixture pf coarsely chopped onions, carrots, and celery that provide a flavor bake for stock. The mixture is usually 50 percent onions, and 25 percent each of farfots and celery (see Fig- ure 6.1). For pale or white sauces, such as fish fun mirepoix, in which they substitute parsnips, add chopped mushrooms for carrots. and flavorings that create a savory smell. Bouqui French for “bag of herbs." is a bundle of fresh he stems, and a bay leaf tied together, Sachet @épi places the spices, including parsley stems, dried t peppercorns, together in a cheesecloth bag. If th these ingredients do not need to be contained Figure 6.1: Mirepoix, a mixture of white onions, car{dts, pnd pale green celery, ‘enhances the flavor and aroma of stockTypes of Stocks} Chapter 6 | Stocks, Sauces, and Soups Stocks are often} called the chef's “building blocks” They form the base for many soups and sauces. 4 stock is a flavorful liquid made by gently simmering bones and/or vegetablts. is extracts the flavor, aroma, color, body, and nutrients of the ingredienfs. Some stocks may take up to 24 hours to properly cook, but stocks are one of tHe most cost-effective ways to use vegetable, meat, and fish trimmings. } There are many| = White stock fish bones. * Brown stoc Th or game bonks = Fumet (foo- made with an = Court bouillon|(; of stock. Several are shown in Figure 6.2 below: isa clear, pale liquid made by simmering poultry, beef, or s is an amber liquid made by simmering poultry, beef, veal, it have been browned first. ): Very similar to fish stock, this is a highly flavored stock nes. -ourt boo-YON): This is an aromatic vegetable broth used. for poaching fish or vegetables. = Glace (glahs sf jelly-like conpist = Remouillage (ray: already been| et as the liquid is etimes referred to as “glaze,” this is a reduced stock with a cy, made from brown stock, chicken stock, or fish stock. moo-LAJ): This is a weak stock made from bones that have in another preparation, sometimes used to replace water in a stock; remouillage is the French word for “rewetting” and liquids. | Figure 6.2: Stocks dre made from a combination of vegetables. seasonings, bones, -@ anChapter 6 | Foundations of Restaurant Management & Culini ® Bouillon (BOO -yon): This is the liquid that vegetables; also referred to as broth, = Jus: This isa rich, lightly reduced stock used a a fauce for roasted meats. his is usually made from ‘Tomatoes, garlic, and seasonings may also b stock, but tomatoes must be strained with a no seeds or skins get into the stock. This is r > lultk from simmering meats or ne Joix, leeks, and turnips. dtd to flavor or darken the -eskcloth or filter so that fdrrdd to as tomato concassé (kawn-ka-SAY), A chef might roast the vegetable or add a large amount of a particular vegetable, such as mushrooms for Some kitchens use convenience items, such as pi bases, and commercial concentrates to cut costs kitchen. It ideal to prepare all items from scrat: possible due to budget issues or staff skill levels. quality convenience products available that can today’s kitchen. The key to choosing any of thes: tion to make sure they provide a good level of qi affects the quality of all dishes prepared from it; i or concentrate is high quality and has good flav promise quality. High-quality stock helps delive mind, though, that commercially prepared stoc of sodium (salt), depending on how they are pri Preparing Bones for Stock 372 To use bones for stock, they must first be cut to by blanching, browning, or sweating. Blanching the bones rids them of some of the it ness in a stock. In a stockpot, cover the bones wit} c yshroom stock. ard stocks, stock or sauce fopd and labor in the but it may not always be Fprthnately, there are many used to good advantage in i jucts is careful evalua- ity. The quality of the stock tHe prepared stock, base, 1; of using it will not com- igh-quality product. Keep in nab contain a large amount \dlicdd. he right size and then prepared purfties that can cause cloudi- ha vate and bring them to a slow boil. When the pot is at full boil, remove the flpating waste or scum. ‘To brown bones, roast them in a hot (400°F) ov are golden brown. Once they are evenly browne: cold water, and then bring to a simmer. This wil and deeper color, ‘Sweating causes bone and mirepoix to release fl is added. In the sweating process, cook the bone! amount of fat over low heat until they soften an bones used for making fish fumet must be sweat ing the cooking liquid and seasoning. fof about an hour, until they lake in a stockpot, cover with ive|the stock a richer flavor jor more quickly when liquid nor vegetables in a small reldase moisture. For example, tefl with vegetables before add-Essential Skills} Blanching Bones © Place at least § Ibf of bones in a stockpot and cover with cold water. See Figure 6.3. @ Bring the water th a slow boil. Skim the surface if necessary. © Once the watér rpaches full boil, drain the bones through a sieve or, if the stockpot has gne| allow the water to drain away through a spigot. © Once the watér rpaches full boil, drain the bones through a sieve or, if the stockpot has gne| dllow the water to drain away through a spigot. Discard the water. © Now the bonds afe ready for any recipe that calls for blanched bones. Flavor, color, body, ahd clarity determine the quality of stock. A stock should be flavorful, but not fo strong that it overpowers the other ingredients in the finished dish. In a chicken|nopdle soup, for example, you should taste the chicken, noodles, and vegetables as| wall as the broth. Fish, chicken, and beef stock have the stron- gest flavors, whilg white veal stock is considered neutral. With the exception of fumet, stocks shduld be almost crystal clear when they are hot. See Figure 6.46| Figure 6.4: Stock should be brought to a boll and then r¢duced to a simmer to bring out the full favor. Rapid boiling of a stock causes impyfritips and fats to blend with the liquid. Mirepoix should be trimmed and cut into a sizg suitfd for the type of stock. For stocks with short cooking times, like fish so le rpirepoix should be sliced or chopped in small pieces. For stocks with cooking|tinfes of longer than one hour, such as beef stock, the vegetables may be cut into Ae pieces. These can be 1 to 2 inches long, or even left whole. Bouquet garni or sachet dépices can be added to the sfpnering stock. Aromatics are usually added in the last hour for two reason¢ tallow the heat to bring out their flavors and to prevent the loss of flavor (of devplopment of unpleasant fla- vors) caused by overcooking. The flavors and arofnab will be released from the herbs and spices as the stock cooks, Once the stp¢k if flavored to taste, remove the aromatic. ‘To make stock, the ratio of liquid to flavoring irigredients is standard. To make one gallon of stock, use the following proportio! Chicken, beef, veal, and game stock: 8 Ibs of bp Ib of mirepoix s to 6 qts of water, adding 1 Fish/shellfish stock or fumet: 11 Ibs of bones pr shells to 5 qts of water, adding 1 Ib of mirepoix Vegetable stock: 4 Ibs of vegetables to 4 gts mirepoix jer, adding % Ib of 374Cooling Stock 6 | Stocks, Sauces, and Soups Essential Skill Preparing Stock ® Combine thq mpjor flavoring ingredient and the cold liquid. © Bring to asi © Skim as necepsafy throughout the cooking time. © Add the mirgpo}x and aromatics at the appropriate time, usually in the last hour of cooking © Simmer unti th stock develops flavor, body, and color. © ‘Strain, then se }mmediately, or cool and store, Straining through cheese- cloth or a coffee|filter helps to remove fat. See Figure 6.5. Figuro 6.5: Si | Strain, then use immediately, or cool and store. Foodborne pathogtns need time and moisture to grow, but they won't grow when the temperature of the food is colder than 41°F or hotter than 135°. The temperatures betwepn 41°F and 135°F are in the temperature danger zone (also known as TDZ)..Follow proper food safety practices when cooling stock. This will minimize the tifne the stock spends in the temperature danger zone.Chapter 6 | Foundations of Restaurant Management & Culi Essential Skills Cooling Stock @ Place hot stock into a clean, cool stockpot, and pyt that pot into an ice- water bath. See Figure 6.6. @ Stir stock often. When cooled, place the pot © Alternatively, break down hot stock into sma smaller containers in the cooler. ef cool at the same rate. @ Stir occasionally so the contents of each cont Note: Be careful not to put a large stockpot {stock in the cooler. It will warm the cooler and its contents.Chapter 6 | Stocks, Sauces, and Soups ‘Management of|Stpcks The stocks in a as fnust be managed carefully. Stock is perishable, so keep it refrig- jn job] erated or frozen. Qnlygmove as much stock from the cooler as required for a particular task. Discard nonffozdn|stock after four days. Frozen stock may be f for three months. Freeze it in containers that best suit the way he it will be used. Ice Pull trays can work, or plastic airtight containers with lids. if the con tainer has straight{sidps, or the bottom is smaller than the top, the block of frozen stock can slide out easill. Chilled stock will got dp|and wiggle. This is due to a gelatin formed from specific types of proteins found ip tHeltissues of the bones that were boiled. Vegetable stocks, of course, will not ele ‘Once stock is clarffied and degreased, it is a fat-free food. If no salt is added, it is fairly low in sodium, butverf flavorful. Use stock for cooking vegetables or rice. This boosts the flavor of the dkh Ldhout adding salt or fot Keep in mind, though thet customers requiring a vegetalian| diet will not be able to eat vegetables or grains cooked in meat or fish stock. re SJ Degreasing Siprk een stored, it After the stock Has} rs dee pyfore tt cat be used. Degreasing if the process of removing fat tht hs cooled and hardened from qheburface of the stock. Just lift or sctape away the fat before reheating tht stock. Figure 6.7 shows stock bethg greased. Degreasing gives tHe stock a clearer and purer color|[t 4lso removes some of the fat content, making the stock more healthful. hs {he stock reheats, d additional fat at rurities Will rise Figure 6.7: Degreasing stock makes it to the top; skim these off to keep the _ healthier by reducing fat. Degrease stock by. stock clear. skimming, scraping, or lifting hard fet. 3Chapter 6 | Foundations of R ¢ fo} FS le) } pal Summary In this section, you learned the following: 378 Nutrition and the Fat Budget staurant Management & Culina Degreasing stock is an important step in creating an autsfanding sauce or soup. It also helps improve the nutrition quality of recipes using that of animals is @ saturated fat, which researchers have lin certain types of cancer. People should limit the amount Budgeting dietary fat intake to include some saturated tdck.|The grease from the bones tq] coronary disease and fat hey include in their diets. It ia reasonable approach, You might reserve part of your fat allowance for a special tre¥t, sich as a creamy, elaborate soup or sauce. Stocks contain four essential parts: a major fl matics, and mirepoix: + The major flavoring ingredient consists o} and fish stocks and vegetables for vegetabl + ‘The liquid most often used in making sto jo. Ing ingredient, liquid, aro- ors and trimmings for meat stock, is|water. + Aromatics are herbs, spices, and flavorings fhaf create a savory smell; these include sachet dépices or bouquet g; irpi. + Mirepoix isa mixture of coarsely chopped pnipns casos and elery that is used to flavor stocks, soups, and st There are many types of stock: + White stock: A clear, pale liquid made by fish bones. + Brown stock: An amber liquid made by beef, veal, or game bones. + Fumet: A highly flavored stock made wit + Court bouillon: An aromatic vegetable b + Glace: A reduced stock with a jelly-like stock, chicken stock, or fish stock. + Remouillage: A weak stock made from bo used in another preparation. It is sometim the liquid used in a stock. + Bouillon: The liquid that results from si also referred to as broth. 3. g ering poultry, beef, or 1 browning/roasting poultry, isl] bones rath.| jsisfency, made from brown nf hat have already been ufed to replace water as, ‘exing meats or vegetables;= When using| by blanching = Degreasing j from the sur} is reheated. fat content. ® To cool stoc spends in th clean stockp When coole: the stock int cooler. Stir o| same rate. B cooler becau} Chapter 6 | Stocks, Sauces, and Soups ‘ones for stock, they must be cut to the right size and prepared ming, or sweating. tHe process of removing fat that has cooled and hardened fack of the stock by lifting or scraping it away before the stock egreasing stock gives ita clearer look and removes some of the . dllow good food safety practices and limit the time the stock iperature danger zone (TDZ). To cool stock, place it in a \d then put that pot into an ice-water bath. Stir it often. ace the pot into the cooler. Another option is to break down sinaller portions and place the smaller containers in the -cabionally so that the contents of each container cool at the cafeful not to put an entire large stockpot of hot stock in the will warm the cooler and its contents. 379Chapter 6 | Foundations of Restaurant Management & Culindry Afts Section 6.1 Review Questions © Define the following: a, Sachet d'épic b. Mirepoix c, Fumet o> d.Bouguetgarni ck, e, Glace Describe the four import : You are responsible fos mount of|chicken stock. How will you do this? I Describe hi id veget are a, sweater b. browned. x c. blanched. x Ss Inthe American 1M Nbiooot Chef Sonnengch{nidt notes that he likes to "make Braised Short Ribs on a cold day. itlbraise and perfume the air for much of the day. If time permits, ai cn resist digging in immediately, cover, refrigerate, and skim off the fee fat the next day.” Why is stock a key component of this flavorful dish? And why might you need to skim surface fat off of the dish the ? Stock is a staple in every restaurant. Wh nu can Uptown Grille offer that uses stock at lunch and at din e|stifl offering a variety of selections? How can a chef identify a potential food safety fHazaitl with a stock? After nt identifying it, what should the che! ‘Why is it importa coola for rage? Why not just put the cooler while it is ho etSection 6.1 Acti Chapter 6 | Stocks, Sauces, and Soups Mees 1. Study Skills/Gyou : A Healthier Stock Work with two other stu Internet or in a cookbot each other by asking: “| 2. Activity: Picto: to find the recipes for two stocks (either on the id compare them for nutrition value. You should test ‘an | make this recipe more nutritious?” Draw a three-frame torn) pictogram for each of the three methods of making ul stock from bones. It sh each specific process. Ipok like a cartoon or diagram, showing the steps in 3. Critical Thinking Comparing Stocks and contrasting the ingt There are many types nf Suggest three dishes far stak. Pick two stocks, and write a short report comparing ‘edjents, cooking process, and nutrition value of each. hich each stock might be the base. 381Chapter 6 | Foundations of Restaurant Management & Culi eet) SECTION 6.2 SAUCES The word sauce comes from the French ior more appetizing. All types of sauces are importa adds flavor, moisture, richness, and visual app. food, not disguise it. Si Study Questions After studying Section 6.2, you should be able questions: "= What are the grand sauces? What other sau "= What are the proper ingredients for sauces ® How do you prepare different kinds of saud How do you match sauces to the approprial Grand Sauces A sauce is a liquid or semisolid product that is Sauces add flavor, moisture, and visual appeal tola cook who specializes in making sauces. There are five classical grand sauces that are th These are sometimes called “mother sauces? T = Béchamel (BAY-shah-MELL): This is made ® Velouté (veh-loo-TAY): This is made from white or blond roux. _ ie} eans a relish to make food jn cooking, A good sauce luces should complement ankwer the following }s are made from them? foi preparing our foods ther dish. A saucier is a bap for most other sauces. ifclude the following: milk and white roux. icken, or fish stock and aChapter 6 | Stocks, § s, and Soups = Brown or Expeghole sauce (ess-spah-NYOL): This is made Frofn brown stock and brown roux. = Tomato sau and tomatoes ( = Hollandaise {HALL-en-daze): This is an emulsion magte from eggs, butter, and lemon. os is made from a stock ux is optional), Figure 6.8 showsla spucier preparing a brown. sauce. Grand saupes|are rarely used by them- peat Figure 6.8: A saucier prepares selves. They are dfteh used to make derivative a brown sauce. sauces. For example} demi glace (deh-mee glahs), a rich brown saude, fs traditionally made by combining equal parts espagnole sauce and veal stock} Table 6.1 lists the grand sauces and their derivatives. Did you know.. While there are may detivative sauces, the original grand sauces are works of art. Chefs use them to fredte outstanding dishes. One example is hollandaise sauce, fea- tured in Eggs BeneHlic} Toast a crumpet or English muffin, and layer it with a warm slice of Canadian bacon br Hain, a perfectly poached egg, and a generous spoonful of hollan- daise sauce over all Alfsblutely delicious! [fast fact] Hollandaise sauce ib a cate balance of warmth, egg/butter/lemon emulsion, and mld lemon butter fitvo} Any abuse will break the sauce. Overheating or overcooling will destroy the balance| Hqwever, holding the sauce too long at a warm temperature in the danger zone is unadcestable, due to the egg content of the sauce. ht amount of hollandaise for the service, and use it immediate~ t always practical. Once a perfect hollandaise has been made, hour over a bath of lukewarm water (>135°F) on the stove. ty low heat, not hot enough to boil the water bath. The key is to make fhe Fi 'y Unfortunately thi is it can be held for uf to The stove should bd at Refrigerate unused hol revived, it will be differe aise for one to two days, or freeze it to keep longer, When it's but it will stil be a nice sauce. For long holding, or fo ¢ boiler on low heat. Gen vegetables, fish, or dhl ‘ore chilled hollandaise, maintain or reheat it over a double- stir in some béchamel sauce. This new sauce is lovely for in. However, it’s not quite hollandaise any longer. = S| B 5 EI i} io) & eI op) =e Gy i) To attempt to restore the Sauce to its original form as hollandaise, gently beat two table- spoons of the chilleg sage in a double boiler over hot water on low heat. When that portion has revived, kdd] and gently beat in the rest one spoonful at a time. 383Chapter 6 | Foundations of Restaurant Management & Culingry Cream 2 = TIM Chicken Mushroom ONE veloute Supreme Hungarian Chasseur, Madeira Al) RUT oe RUC aL ola ‘Cheddar cheese Soubise (soo BEEZ) Bordelaise (bohrdlAYZ) lyonnaise (lee-ohsNEHZ) Hollandaise | Béamaise (behr-NAYZ} Malaise cooked onions Rbdufed with heavy cream feafn, Hungarian paprika fine, parsley fooms, shallots, white wine and ao concassé onions, butter, white wine, jira wine , white wine, vinegar, range jvice ond zest Basic Ingredients in Sauces Sauces need a liquid component, but some sau: more solid elements than liquid. A key ingredie! which adds richness and body. Some examples 0 mani, slurry, and liaison. ich as salsa, may contain ir} sauce is the thickener,[fast fact] Did you know... Roux can be cook the temperature rouxis better or and color you wat Chapter 6 | Stocks, Sauces, and Soups dint itis white, blond, brown, or dark brown, The color depends on 1d fme taken fo cook the fat-flour mixture, None of these types of rsp {han any other, The color you choose will depend on the flavor tolaive your sauce or soup, Roux (ROO) is ¢ tbtenes made of equal parts cooked flour and a fat, such as il clarified butter, then the flour is blended. The c heated. r shortening. To make a roux, the fat is heated in a pan, and adHed. The mixture is stirred until the flour and fat are fully lorlof the roux is determined by how long the mixture has been ‘There are four donfmonly used types of roux: = White roux: where little ‘THis is cooked for a very short period of time; used in sauces, joldr is needed, like béchamel. White roux is bland and a little starchy and bas|the most thickening power. © Blond roux: golden and Blond roux THis is cooked longer than white roux, until the flour turns Se a aie ace Uke vot, asia little more flavor development. It is nutty tasting. = Brown/dark brown roux: This sauce is cooked until it develops a dark brown color} nutty, roasts used in dishes that require a dark brown color. Brown roux is flbyor. It has the least thickening ability because the starch has nutty anda inedium-brown color, Dark brown roux is quite dark, with a 5 been cookes Beurre manié ( thickener made| soft, whole buttgr. ter together, and thpn shape the mixture into small pea-s manié to thickes end of the cook cooking sauce. it A slurry, cornst liquid, can be used }ristead of roux. You cannot add cori it will make the tht longest. nt man-YAY) is a fa parts flour and r. Mix flour and but- igure 6.9, Use beurre abauce quickly at the ing|process. Fie and add to the rch mixed with a cold stakch directly to a sauce; auke lumpy. First, dis- solve the cornstarch in a cold liquid. Figure 6.9: Beurre manié is a paste made from flour and butter that is used as a sauce thickener.