(elnreley (lar) Garment drawing and design254 From tailor’s workshops to mass production Before the arrival of mass production, clothes were made at specialist tailor’s workshops that were equipped with everything needed to make any kind of garment. Tailors had intimate knowledge of their cients’ tastes and physical characteristics. The ‘most exclusive workshops used tailors’ dummies to reproduce the exact measurements of their top lady clients, wh could order clothes from their trusted couturier, and have them delivered direct to their door. Each garment was unique and entirely hand-made, with great attention to detail and style, and made with superior quality fabrics, similar service continues today in the haute ‘couture market, which caters to a sophisticated and privileged clientele With the development of the textile industry and ready-to-wear clothing, fashion houses have turned themselves into larger- scale businesses, and have grouped their clothing into preset sizes. Nowadays, the design and production of clothes is done in different locations and whole teams of specialists are involved in the creation of fashion collections, This calls for professional drawing techniques that facilitate the visual communication between all parties.Types of drawings The fashion drawing is done by skilled fashion illustrators or fashion designers. It may be very stylised and the proportions may be altered. Such drawings, as we have seen in the preceding chapters, are made to convey a certain mood and style, and can be Used instead of photographs in specialist magazines. For the communication between designers and people involved in the production of clothes, more precise drawings are needed: technical drawvings and working drawings. The technical drawing is done by the production stylist, producing a clear and detailed image that shows the technical representation of a garment, 2s if it were resting on a flat surface (throughout this chapter there are many examples of technical drawings, among others on pages 282, 292 and 312). Its usually a neat line drawing showing front, profile and back views. Creases and folds are left out or reduced toa minimum to highlight the cut, line and details. Interior details 236 such as linings or trimmings can also be shown. This type of drawing is very useful to the designer, who must highlight every detail ofthe garment, and for the pattern maker, who has to create the garment exaclly as the designer has indicated. The technical drawing is a link between the fashion sketch and the finished ‘garment, and many creatives prefer it to the fashion illustration. ‘Aless constrained variant of the technical drawing is in the style Used for fashion books, as illustrated on pages 339-352. ‘The illustrations below ofa classic blazer and a safari jacket can be labeled working drawings. They include three-quarter views and a little more detain creases and folds. Such illustrations can be ‘drawn hung on a hanger or tailor's dummy. Note the attention to