RATING CONVERSIONS

Conversion of American and French Canyon Rating Systems

The majority of canyons in the world are rated using either the American or French rating systems.
The American system was developed by the American Canyoneering Association in 2000-2001.
The French system was developed a few years later. Both systems use separate alpha-numeric
values for technical terrain and rope work and the aquatic nature of the canyon. The American
system uses a numeric value (1-4) as the base for technical terrain and a alpha character (A-C) as
the base for water conditions. The French system uses a numeric value (1-7) for both technical
terrain and water, distinguishing between the two with “v” for vertical to denote technical terrain and
“a” for aquatic to denote water conditions.

Both rating systems also use a Roman numeral system adopted from rock climbing to address the
commitment and duration of canyons.

Risk Rating
There is a distinction between how the two systems address greater-than-normal risk in the ratings.
The French system incorporates risk into the numeric Vertical rating. The American system uses a
movie rating system sometimes used in rock climbing — G, PG, R, X. It is rare to encounter G or
PG in a rating as each would denote something closer to normal risk. R is used when there is
greater-than-normal risk. X is used when there is extreme risk.

Detail vs Flexibility
Another distinction between the two systems becomes obvious when reviewing the definitions
between levels. The French system provides more detail in defining the difference between (for
example) v3 and v4. A v3 rating is given to canyons with rappels up to 30m and a v4 given to
canyons with rappels over 30m. The American system simply refers to “classes”.

This difference can also be seen in the way the two systems address water conditions. A large
number of the canyons being rated with the American system are dry or semi-dry desert canyons in
the American southwest where detail for Class C canyons is immaterial. Class C is broken down
using C1-C4 in areas where there are more Class C canyons.

There have been many discussions about fine-tuning the American system to add additional detail.
Some have suggested a decimal system similar to the Yosemite Decimal System used in climbing.
Class 3 could be broken down to 3.1 to 3.? But the American system was developed based on the
philosophy that a rating system should only provide a quick means for deciding whether a particular
canyon is doable giving the group’s skills. Details should come from a guide book.


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 RATING CONVERSIONS

Technical / Vertical ACA French

Non-technical. Rope not necessary for progress. 1 v1
Very easy climbing. Rope for convenience. Possible short rappels. 2 v2
Simple rappels up to 30m (100 ft). 3 v3
Rappels more than 30m (100ft). Simple multi-stage rappels. Risk. 3 R v4
Difficult rappels. Challenging multi-stage rappels. 4 v5
Very difficult rappels, awkward stations. Difficult traverses and climbs. Risk. 4 R v6
Extremely difficult rappels. Extremely difficult climbs. Extreme risk. 4 X v7

Water / Aquatic ACA French

Dry or very low water. No mandatory swims. A a1
Calm water. Swims up to 10m (30 ft). Jumps up to 3m (10 ft). B a2
Weak current. Swims up to 30m (100 ft). Jumps up to 5m (15 ft). B/C a3
Moderate current. Prolonged immersion. Jumps up to 8m (25ft). C 1 a4
Strong current with avoidable hazards. Jumps up to 10m (30 ft). C 2 a5
Very strong current with unavoidable hazards. Jumps up to 14m (45 ft). C 3 a6
Extremely dangerous water hazards that will be difficult to overcome. C 4 a7

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 RATING CONVERSIONS

No conversion necessary for commitment/duration as ACA and French systems are nearly identical,
using a Roman numeral system adopted from rock climbing.

Commitment / Duration Rating

Short. 1-2 hours. Easy exits present in all sections of the canyon. I
Half day. 2-4 hours. Exits no more than 1/2 hour apart. II
Majority of a day. 4-8 hours. Exits no more than 1 hour apart. III
Full day requiring early start. Exits no more than 2 hours apart. IV
Overnight in the canyon. Exits no more than 4 hours apart. V
More than 2 days in the canyon. Exits more than 4 hours apart. VI

A few practical examples of the rating systems in use:

ACA Ratings equivalent to French Ratings

1A III v1a1 III

3R B III v4a2 III
4 C1 II v5a4 II
4B IV v5a2 IV
2 C4 I v2a7 I

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