Fashion Patternmaking Techniques for Children’s Clothing Dresses, Shirts, Bodysuits, Trousers, Shorts; Jackets and-Coats Antonio Donnanno Illustrations by Claudia ‘Ausonia Palazio promopressFashion Antonio Donnanno Patternmaking Claudia Ausonia Palazio Techni iques for Children’s Clothing Dresses, Shirts, Bodysuits, Trousers, Shorts, Jackets and Coats promopressAntonio Donnanno Since he was a teen, Antonio Don i anno has pursued his interest in fashion and clothing. He was intro- . duced to tailoring by his aunt Car la, who in 1939 founded a pattern making and cutting school After obtaining his degree in phi losophy and history, he began teaching the history of costumes and pattern making techniques. In 1967 he was hired as a lecturer at Ac cademia Morini in Parma, Italy, becoming the schoo!’s headmaster 10 years later. In 1982 he founded Euromode School Italia to of- fer professional courses on patternmaking, styling and cutting, following the methods he learned from his aunt and enriched by his experience as a lecturer, specialist and corporate consultant, He has published dozens of books on fashion, from sketching to costume history. Today, in addition to directing the school with all its a= filiates, Donnanno has a private patternmaking and cor- porate consultancy studio, He also oversees the team ‘hich publishes the monthly fashion magazine, La Mia Boutique Fashion Patternmaking Techniques for Children's Clothing, Dresses, Shirts, Bodysuits Trousers, Shorts, Jackets and Coats Original title: La tecnica dei model Neonato / Bambino 0/12 ‘Translation: Katherine Kirby ISBN: 978-84-16851-140 D.L: 821742017 Copyright © 2016 ikon Editrice st Copyright © 2018 Promopress for the Engish language edition Promopress is a brand of: Promotora de prensa internacional S.A, C/ Ausias March 124 (08013 Barcelona, Spain Tel: 0034 93 245 14 64 Fax: 0034 93 265 48 83 Email: info@promopress.es Facebook: Promopress Editions Twitter: Promopress Editions @Promopresséd First published in English: 2018 All rights reserved. The total or partial reproduction of ths book, its transmission in any form or by any means ot procedure, whether electronic or mechanical, incudiag photocopying, recording or incorporation into an elections Storage and retrieval system, and the distribution of cops the work through rental or public ending are nat perm ‘without prior authorization from the publishe. Illustrations by: Claudia Ausonia Palazio Cover design: spread Printed in ChinaPREFACE Patterns for children’s clothing usually difer from those for Adults. They are less detailed and can be made in less time, but they must always make the child wearing the clothes feel at ease and thus must be comfortable and easy to wear. Onesies, bodysuits, jumpsuits, sleeping-sacks, rompers, blouses, and so ‘on: the kidswear universe is vast. Each age range comes with ‘models which combine comfort, beauty and style. For newborns, i's best to use singlepiece patterns, such as, kimonos, which are easy to put on and facilitate the changing of nappies, This book is the result of careful study to and updates on the changing needs ofthis industry. I wanted to create a methodology similar to that for adult clothing, easy to use yet precise. The attached table of bases will allow you to quickly complete all basic and creative pat- terns. I hope this text will help simplify the work of those in this industry or of those who just wish to make garments for their family members. After all, helping them truly offers a great deal of satisfaction, The authorTaBLe OF CONTENTS Fa CHILDREN'S FASHION THROUGH HISTORY, TOOLS AND TAILORING TECHNIQUES... CLOTHING FOR INFANTS «cscs SKIRTS, BLOUSES AND T-SHIRTS TROUSERS AND SHORTS BODICES AND SHIRTS ... JUMPSUITS AND ROMPERS DRESSES AND NIGHTGOWNS WAISTCOATS, JACKETS AND OVERCOATS.... FORMAL WEAR AND CARNIVAL COSTUMES HOW TO REMOVE STAINS FROM CHILDREN'S CLOTHING..... 279 95 128 138 1B 2aChildren’s clothing through history Indications for clothing for infants and children Fabric Special fabrics Tools and equipment Sewing machine. Overlockers Accessories and applications, Tailoring terminology Symbols and abbreviations Hand-sewn stitches Children’s proportions Children's proportions and measurements How to take the measurements Commercial sizes for children Newborn Table Bodices and sleeves for 1-12 years How to use the table.——— ll TT CHILDREN’S CLOTHING THROUGH HISTORY lly represented without wete effectively nude ee ts ull tal hey ton winter ERP ves act been fund tonal yf iden Was dered the tals and age asad In anc cdothing. H ws the temperature d ‘f chlren's clothing, we link In gee an suppose that © to an artistic ang Halden wer | essed inthe same manner mnt Rome, newborns were wrapped like mummies. Only the head and pethaps fet stuck out from the swaths of fabric ‘Tis tadtion continued, unfortunately, up into the early 20th documents attest to the waysin which children sare tended to in ancient times. For example, instead of the wodernday nappies we are familiar with, they used leaves, real skine and other natural resources. The Egyptians, Aztecs snd Romans, who left us evidence of their daily activities jon ther use. The need for a hygienic solution to infants needs affected all social classes of the population, from century Val Sec Be ee Eee opens rete wrapped in stipsof nen or woo fabric, ging each Im and acs he ene body. The Chinese added a layer of as between he at's skin and tips of sea ie, Panetta American, mothers padded the space baby's skin and a rabbit skin swaddling. ®: In warm, tropical climates, children were mostly nude thes tn males edt pd tbs esas to olngthensehes, One an only imagine how si in iitation might be: eae ight become a serious problem in such rae edges and evading, wa mes eat Sdn, wapsng mses and ons ich why, as soon as babies were dressed them in a white oval tunic. If the child es rank, his toga praetexta included the distinct ae Bulla Aurea on their clothing, a gold pin with Bi ee SofonshaAngussle, Port the Aris Ser and Bote 155, During the Middle Ages, aside fram newboms (who wee completely wrapped with only their face visible), there wasn | way to distinguish between the various ages: children and adults dressed the same ' Diego Vane, Las Mens, 1656 In the 19th century, children over the age of two oft (when both boys and girs wore a losefiting dest Wi dressed and styled identically as adults. Ute 6S constricted in tightfittng busts and voluminous farhre” just ike their mothers, wth long skits and updo Mae Ute boys dressed ite their fathers, excep or afew cer details such as bows and ribbons. However, they 3 flaunt miniature armour A the time, clothing mes OS, indgpensable to geting ciden used tothe role) have to play as adultsBME chscare wich began to tut ota te BORER ors tere recs niente Rousen, who presente thedea tutors snd esa ROSE sey ore nc ere! Rees oe ccie cone eee NE Gocesns cose none ae ET nrias crc ce Ding he 1005 tay and ese ot Coe aby gis et Searcs re ee eee Cente cere por ae they GSM cay the craguried snouts ota toe EERIE to tetea er cat tenses es eM eins co cncins erie BePp eM concen te wart oo cre aes Sinport to encourage prope posture, Ue bys wore kre Gama o canes Bes a SEE ie ge caned corr ochre Bee Mcrae coving avon tensa fat ot eer eran tetne ars ace Nese ESE Te on) teens etvces he goons eel cat yer ote new te boton Eee dre hack ena ntsc ot obo) SRG peeL tific ond lou, Haras ond Been or boys oe so ruc a tt or ee Re res Wo datgn bates ate boy ands te get PHM ann cher courts, tare was a Pee eer about geste endorser coal FERRO ea borin io Ses tha chen tht Saya Fe eae arto aria koa: form Tene enor itera a Fe lr i tend of ing eres eet te argo ke fold They woe Be ee red ater space overs Pn Mee Meelipeiof rene oven which woud cone fo shape the tastes of al of Eunpe aos Eee a eerre igi bal ary The sl ut or des be o white Bouse tated atthe Pete pate saegc ving tc bck ee eee cease ates: ves eC eailee AOE leven ada peed it. Bath of them ao wore alls fats the winter vein of which was a wool beret featuring a pom-pom, while a wide brim straw version with a ribbon around the crown decorated with marine motifs was common in the summer. It was recommended. for children ages five to eight and was inspired by clothing worn by young Edward, Prince of Whales The little Lord Fauntleroy’ suit: kneelength trousers, a ng frock coat, lace collar and cuffs often called pageboy’ as they were loosely inspired by the fashions of pages at the French court in the second half of the 1600s. In fact, it efers to the dress of the protagonist of the children’s book, Little Lord Fauntleroy, by Frances Hodgson Bumett, (1286) Eaton suits: long trousers and a short, waistlength jacket with a point at the centre back, the standard uniform of the aristocratic English boarding school which it is named after.ee How CHILDREN ARE DRESSED TODAY Children today generally wear comfortable, practical clothing jeans, sweatshirt, tshirts, rompers and gym shoes. Formal hear is reserved for a few official occasions, such as baptisms, ommunions and confirmations, weddings or anniversaries Only in these situations do we stil feel the need to wear elegant, formal attire. ‘Making safe clothing When designing and creating children’s clothing, you must also think about safety. For example, it's a good idea to avoid ribbons or laces which can come undone and cause an accident, Don't design attire with excessive fabric which the Child may ge anh 4 design sis which are to long a ceo sees whch around them; don't make laces an 5 a and make sure that ‘button me ole and esp are a 15 aay best oe nonfat = ear tote sensitive tothe tld wt ea etINDICATIONS FOR CLOTHING FOI PER SIZING 2 Interms of sizing, it should first be noted that each bra BRE sown methodology and specs toneet aOR larger sizes, a few smaller, and it varies from country to county. Garments made in Germany and northern European countries are often larger despite having the same size writen on the tag. Orders confirm that, in general, childrens clothing have smaller sizing. For that reason, it's advisable to always purchase a larger size, even two in certain shops n particular it's best to avoid buying clothing that’s sized for "0 mont (newborns) or “1 month” as afew newborns will be able to wear them for only two or three weeks before outgrowing the clothes. You will generally find sizes for 0, 3, 6, 12,24, and 36 months, even fa few also make intermediary sizes” 1,9 and 18 months, for example. For early infancy, comfortable, practical clothes are best Choose garments which close easly, preferably with snap or tie fastenings. Opt for tops and bodysuits which have a wrap front with a small tie or snap fastening. The same goes for sleepsuts (one-piece footed pyjamas, outfits, footed jumpsuits land rompers which close with buttons at the back or at the ‘rotch, In practice, the important thing isto be abe to easily ‘access the baby's nappy without having to undress him or her entirely. Waistcoats and wrap tops are easy to put on and take off also. It’s best to choose garments which don't have to be put over the infants head, especially up to 2 months of age. If, however, you prefer tshirts and bodysuits which ate placed over the head, they must be easily insertable and removable: it's better to opt for envelope necklines so they un body wth short ‘Garments for babies from months should be chosen withthe v mind, You can choose between garments or with p fastenings, seatesand tousesin co That doesn’ mean, however forgetting about the co warmth ofthe garment, or of ho easy itso care for. For the {ood ofthe cl, clothing shoul be loose and easy to Bungares are deal for baby’s fst steps itshould be noted that unt the baby starts walking, shoes are useless. At most, very soft socks without a hard sole canbe put on the chid. When the itl one begins walking on his or her vn, only then wil you need to choose footwear which doesn't weigh down his/her ankles, with noni ols. The chil’ foot shouldbe protected and respected by choosing suitable model del for him ore. From 12 months of age, ach’ wardrobe is eriched with the addition of resistant garments and, to encourage the child to tnant to get dressed on his/her own, i's necessary to presenta few cistinctive appliations ofthe front, which also makes the garments distinguishable from one another. You might, for fxample, apply a small mot on the front of knickers, tops Sweatsits and sweaters V-neck are preferable, Avoid buttons, Zip fastenings, belts, braces; opt for shorts or dresses with Granstrings or elastic at the wast, or with Veer fastenings.FABRIC jap, ET AND BIAS ARE EAN of yams which ae aanged by nh oven and pe ng and we Eads (0 often tase: wo te we yarinttae Cee) il ght of ear et eu of the seth of Teun you can place the repion the bs, hat ae he ry and wef yas thokced a 45 degree, eis parecyonthe bes se SELVEDGE Z ‘The selvedge is the lateral edge of fabric or bolts of cloth, dense and resistant, which keeps it from unraveling Gun ae KNITS Knits are made up of vertical ribs or wales and rows or courses, which are placed at a right angle to the former. They can be flat or tubular and can be cut along the ribbing on a simple layer. 10 fabric is used for loosefittng two piece outfits and | le heave abr canbe wed for jacket and cosa ain y tton velvet: taffeta ae ote, tor nat, canbe, omnes Chea gl 208 reSPECIAL FABRICS NATURAL RAW MATERIALS FOR CHILDREN'S FABRICS Today fabrics which use only all natural raw materials for children’s clothing are increasingly popular - organic cotton in Particular. By doing so, textile companies ensure both a policy Cf respect for the environment and fair trade practices with respect to farmers. In fact, farming is regulated by IVN standards, that is, required to grow products not just with low environmental impact on the soi, water and air, but also ‘mindful of the social and living conditions of the people who work in the cotton fields In addition to cotton, there is also Pure merino wool from organically raised livestock and the particular, successful mixed pure n ralsed livestock, and silk In addition, all dyes used should be fr thus without any type of AZO, 2 of heavy metals and which is ul to BAW, CPS Oy? CS ‘human health. To adé colour to wool, only reactive dyes are sed which stably attach to the fibres and which stand out for their authenticity. In terms of their processing, no finishing i, involved. Substantially, all materials used should be biodegradable and non polluting for the sol, air and water. All ‘metal parts used should be free of nickel and the other ‘materials should be natural, sustainable raw materials, To Buarantee the high quality of products, there are requitements ating to lightfastness and resistance to sweat, saliva, washing and shrinking. These properties and the limits for residues of polluting or unhealthy, harmful substances are checked periodically by independentenvironmental laboratories GARMENTS FOR INFANTS 0-24 MONTHS IN ORGANIC FABRIC The fabric to use for newborns, recommended by most experts, is organic cotton for bodysuits instead of synthetic materials, as natural fibres ensure greater breathability for the ski, in addition to being less likely to iritate the baby's skin, For babies 0 - 24 months, organic cotton is also generally nded for other garments. Footed rompers, a highly comfortable and natural garment, are particularly suitable for protecting newborns from the cold. Long sleeve bodysuits are I for cold days, just undergarments and articles of clothing: worn over short sleeve bodysuits The short sleeve bodysuit is an undergarment wihich doesn't overlook aesthetics or appearance, in addition to the comfort and naturalness conferred by entirely organic cotton fabric Crew neck sweatshirts or hoodies are perfect to keep litle Boys and girls warm on cold days, and can be combined with a short or long sleeve bodysuit. We also recommend short or long sleeve pyjama tops and fulHength pyjama bottoms for nights when the temperature drops, in a soft, comfortable fabric such as organic cotton enhanced by various patterns and colours. ealTOOLS AND EQUIPMENT Tools FOR PATTERNS 41) Pattern paper Should be smooth and medium thickness. It can be in sheets of rolls, but robust enough to endure repeated use and to properly highlight what's outline 2) Manila paper To cut out the base pattern and all its components. 3) Carbon paper Is used to “copy’ to trace a few parts of the pattern (facings, necklines, sleeveless armscyes, etc.) 4) Papercutting scissors Used to cut out the pattern without using your fabriccutting Scissors, which would go blunt 5) Pencils and rubber To outline the patterns. 6) Coloured pencils To highlight the details 7) Ruler (80-100 cm) To measure and draw the patterns straight lines. Rulers with non-slip rubber on the bottom are highly recommended 8) Set square (or tailors ruler) To make right angles and 4 square corners, to mark the straight of the we, etc. 9) Ring ruler Used to trace curved lines or flared seams, 2 10) Large compass Used to draw atches for or 11) Tracing wheel Ba Used to tander the aut of ne a of yy another, especially when drawing a em indicate the placements lines f ri ee a fr then and on light fabrics with a smooth ont ey 12) Weights To hold the pattern still during the first design phase Used to affix the pattern paper to the table ort ath changes to the cutter master. 14) Long pins with plastic heads To attach the pattern to the fabric before cutting 15) Pincushion Can either be worn on your wrist or placed on the table 16) Table Should be large enough to create the patterns (11032000 43x79 in). 117) Pattern holder Dita converte fr com Useful to hanging the patterns gathered in all its pieces and attached together. 18) Clamps for notches Used to mark the notches or reference points on the paperboard patterns 19) Die cutter To create holes in the paperboard patte 20) Hole punch To create reference holes in the pockets sto hang the™ pattems, gatherings amTOOLS AND EQUIPMENT TOOLS FOR CUTTING AND PACKAGING 41) Dressmaker's shears The scissors used by cutters may be up to 50 cm (19.7) long and weigh upto 1 Kg (22 Ibs), Handling is facitated bythe shape of therings which mimic the shape ofthe thumb (1) and placement of the fingers: index (2), middle (3), ring (4), pinkie (5). A lug (N - centre of movement and balance) provides a support when cutting. 2) Embroidery scissors ‘Approx. 12 cm long with two pointed tips, these exteely sharp scisors are used to trim and notch edges. 3) Pinking shears A special type of shears which make a zig-zag cut, used to cut all types of fabric so that they dont fay and unravel. They're aso Useful when you need to soften or lighten the edges of heat-applied interfacing 4) Knife-edge thread nippers ‘A particular type of scissors used in tailoring to shave off the threads sticking out from the basting, etc 5) Eyelet setters A type of tailoring scissor used to create holes and ‘eyelets, wth adjustable screws according tothe length desired 66) Cardboard scissors. Used to cut the edges of cardboard patterns. 7) Cutting table ‘The table used in the cutting room made of anion structure, a top panel of tempered hardboard and an under mount in chipboard for Support. Cutting tables canbe from 110 cm to 200 cm (39 to 79 in) long and are generally about 1 m (3.28 ft high. They may be axe without a base, wile those for women are completly closed on ‘The dummy, or frm, fs useful when V making custom garments sit A ‘equipped with fabric roll holders or with spreaders. 8) Thimble ‘Assmall metal or plastic cap, dotted with small indentations, to protect the ga et DR i ers hinble,orseng eng, 9) Mirror nolMenneaa F position ofthe pockets and the hem lines. Adjustable mannequins have mechanisms which allow you to lengthen or tighten separate parts ofthe ches, the waist and the hips 11) Tailor's chalk hey maybe in clay or wax, evanescent, and come in assorted chalks particularly suitable for smoot ishing fabrics, wie those in vax are more useful fabrics. Te later dificult to remove from materia with a hard surface 12) Chalk holder ‘Aplastic or wood item with fited blades to sharpen the tailors chalk 13) Needles The size and type of needles you use depends on the work to be cared out and onthe fabric to be sewn. Needles for hand sewing are given a number whch i inversely related to ther thickness. There are different types of needles, which even may vary by the use they are used S for: needles for sewing machines, for hand sewing, for upholsterrs; for embroidery, for damning, et 414) Skirtmarker A piece of equipment made up ofa graduated metal pole which contains a support ful of chalk pode, which is sprayed onto the garment by a rubber pump. = finish BTOOLS AND EQUIPMENT Tools FOR IRONING 4) fron - Irons can be with fr without a steam function and weigh up to 5 kg Irons with steam allow you to go ‘over new fabric to shrink it without getting the fabric wet, and to shape the garment. | 2) Press 'A press is particularly useful when applying heatseal interac ing. It can be used to apply the interfacing to broad surfaces ‘of to group small pieces to be treated together with one single pressing, The pressure created goes up to 45 kg, in line with the interfacing manufacturer’ instructions = oF Notes for wing iron When woking as 2 seamstress o alr, the use of tons must be relative eats, must be lnteligenlywsed according to the fabric you ae working with and acordng to the pate being flowed. f the ion sed to pe the fabric that raw beauty that working the fbn oss nd removes, that’s 0 reason to then use the won as an airy to remo times, defects ax vel, Thelin some way may happen fr men's garments, andi processing roms sts, where specie fabrics land themselves to and withstand 4 3) Ironing board Semi-liptical planks in wood or a mounted on metal legs or affinec aa res 85 Fine with fant ay > 4) Sleeve ironing board ‘A small toning board with two differentized sides, wed iton sleeves and other narrow openings fe 5) Pressing ham A cvlshaped pads wong aces sed 0 pros te cress cites the con — 4 rf of sleeves, and shoulders. 6) Velvet needle board ‘A plank in wood or other material covered in fine metal points, used to iron smooth vee or corduroy, or fabric with 2 raised mot the sgt ofthe fon 208 SE ae gan, Pe fovert for deat fabs with 2 et get sare Ea em he ighter te fabric, he si cs. copes tobe satanSEWING MACHINES ‘View of the lower part of a sewing machine To make hand-erafted children's clothin machine that sews straight lines and zig freestanding arm to sew the smaller elements, legs. If, however, you are consi embroidery or other special sti sewing machine. In any case, t's alvays durable sewing machine, which v without, however, spending mo sewing machines are also fine, as ae those more professional fied stand, which allow y the space to use your tools, which should SEWING MACHINE ACCESSORIES In general, sewing machines have accessories which variety in the processes to be carried out. A few of th bee used with any type of sewing machine from the sa manufacturer. For example, the needle plate and foot for straight seams, which has a small, round hole forthe ne also has a narrow cutout for the needle to passthrough and thus doesn't allow for any movement. These two tools are used with the fabric calls for special attention, as is often the case for light, delicate fabric. The needle plate and the zigz foot are used for zig-zag seams and for those made with twin needles, in addition to simple, straight seams on heavy materials. Among the many feet used on sewing machines, there's one for making eyelets, one for zips, one for buttons, ‘one for ribbing, one for even feed, one for invisible stitching one for whipsitch, a hemming foot and a gathering foot Needles can be with a rounded point for knits and with a universal point for every type of fabri; fine ones, n.65, are fine to use on light, thin materials. Double needles are used for ribbing, for decorative stitching and for hems. hemmer PRESSER FEET 15OveRLOCKERS rewing machine to supple ving The overlocker, or serger, isa special Nant the vradtanal one, This machine cus he fabric whe ers in its industrial evs. its frequently used by garment mak version asit notably reduces work times. I's greatest asset is that ‘Crimplfies the working of fabric which is frequently used in etch materials, jersey and cotton. In Tilton, fabrics which are traditionally difficult to work with, ach as slippery sks and ight, transparent fabrics, donot bunch upin the process. It thus offers the abit to cary out 3 cifferent win a single step under the foot: it sews the fabric's it creates a clean, modern fashion, such as dige while directly discarding any excess, profesional rsh along, the edge with an overlock stitch and it iso ensures that the fabric is sewn without unraveling. The verlocker is quite useful for making narrow autofinis Seams, rolled hems (roulé), hems with invisible stitching and overcasting of the edges, In addition, it’s the best equipment to tse to apply elastic, knit edging, ribbon and lace. There are two types of overlackers, which vary according to the price range and features. The less expensive ones have mod features and are intended for personal use, while the profession. al versions are intended for tailors and seamstresses. The lat are tools which ensure very high quality work and are more suitable for professional sartorial use in addition, there are different overlocker models which are Classified according to the number of threads used: the convert ible 4/3 thread, which can be adjusted to sew with three threads, the 3 thread and the 4/2 thread, commonly used ding to the requirements and type of process require model has a c point ofits own. Inan overlocker, the knives function as shears and trim the for the preprogrammed height. There are two knives: ont carbonsteel which may last quite a few years, while the oth less durable and should be replaced three or four times 2 according ta the amount of work carried out and the fabric used. Needles for overlockers are th cris standard variety for traditional ‘machines, or ae the industrial type wit a long and short shaft. The latter are stronger and last longer than the standard ones. It's a good idea to use the needles suitable to the machine you ‘own and change conventional needles often, using the thinner kind to avoid damaging the fabric, the one that is suitable for almost all types of fabric is the 11/80 measurement. | » 7 He the handwhee unt te loopers are and aye accesible and, only at ths poin read read the needs a the et aught on the loop (antou the onbcher 1 he ti though it is. thread m: thread made tic cotton and cotton it creates more nap and may br due to high speeds: thread made of decor sik and metal ribbon, twisted yarn for eye It’s very important to it produces inside and out rather oft the fabri discs, needles, knives and feed) In addition, the rotating parts should care about the proper functioning of the 3) Pull the threads upwards above the See a ceag hae threads dont get tangled Up.\ ACCESSORIES AND APPLICATIONS “The accessories and applications for children's garments can be decorative and charming but, atthe same time, they must be practical and functional Etasmics ‘The most durable elastics are those made of cotton and rubber. If they are of high quality, they maintain their original width even when stretched and snap back to their natural length when applied to the garment The most commonly used types of elastic bands are: 1) Knit elastic; 2) Elastic fabrics (these two are the most suita- ble for being sewn directly onto the garment); 3) Braided elastics, 4) Fat elastics (these are the most suitable to be inserted in a drawstring) 5) Transparent elastics, adaptable to any colour fabric Trimaincs Trimmings are frequently used in children's clothing as they give the garment a graceful look and are a nice final touch: The best ones are made of catton or with a high percentage of cotton; they/re made of a light fabric and the motifs have a precise effect There ate lots of types of trimmings, but we'll mention only a here as we are limited by space: inserts with two straight edges ers with one straight edge and one scalloped edge 3) Embroidered lace trim with flower openings which can be threaded with a ribbon 4) Br se embroidered with variousshaped edges. 5) With entredeux embroidery and edges refinished with stitching, ACCESSORIES ‘Accessories for children's garments can be decorative and orna- mental, but they must always be functional and easy to access and use. Zip closures can be decorative if in contrasting colours, for outerwear Snap fastenings can be found in various colours and in differ- ent sizes. They are easy to use Decorative buttons can give the garment a cute, personalised look, but it's always important to remember that fastenings ‘must be practical, and thus helpful as the child closes the gar ment s/he is wearing. NN ee tl 7TAILORING TERMINOLOGY pvowet Placement o the ri, to prod free tom defects wou aanser a fre oer at ofthe a open te a of 2st. sic (nt EE BB along the entire perimeter ofthe spper pat ofthe am. “Asyunternic (PATTERN) ce Aepater which has cuts/Seams, vith respeat othe cent front oF Centre back ax Bouse fa type of losefitng shit or dress wri is qute roomy and bilowy, ply atthe wast us The line whic ets across the fabric dagonaly wth respect to the straight of gain Boor/10008 The uoper pat ofa des pattern Couns/nccnne The opening inthe upper part ofa dress, shit, blouse, ee. through which the head goes The ear or neckline can have various lines squat, V-neck, sweetheart hooded, ez Coun uo A stip of fabric under the colar of ren’ es sits Cou sino The par ofthe colar hich rises up fom the pont of ettachment Dar A tangular dart made ona patter to Shape the gament where the body extends tad or curves, Dars ar wide along the pth ofthe sam where yu emo the exces of ic. They come to pint where there is the extsion or the curve eS 3 cuve of the Te sof the dat is rs proportionte to the eo he projecting part. The Poin othe dat ts Grecton and wt Seeing pen reer ie subject. Generally rs MERE veel nd Vertical dart te those which op fom the tom he shader toe ome ety Na the bist fectly on ¥ the pattern perfect ce clothing entirely ast, from the neckline to the shoulder blades, from the waist to the sides, from the elbow to the bottom of the sleeve. Horizontal darts: are those which are directed through the pattern and come {rom the side seams at the bust, at the centre front or centre back, and those on the centre sleeve or the elbow. Drave The soft folds of a garment, arranged to decorate a dress, shit, etc DrawsrRinc ‘type of belt which is slotted on the interior of a garment, running within a fabric casing, Facinc Facings finish and support the edges of the clothing, including necklines, button fastenings and the cuff of the sleeve They are attached to the inside of the garment unless they are intended to be decorative FasTeNinc/CLosure Fastenings or closures allow the person wearing a garment to put it on and take it off easily. They can be zips, buttons, clasps, hooks and eyelets, Velero, or any other medium which allows one to open and then close a space of appropriate proportions Fiars/rs Pieces of fabric applied to the opening of the pockets Fane The widening at the bottom of a skirt, dress, etc Fows Folds ofthe fabric on garments for production needs. Folds can be: box Pleats, Diorstyle, loose, inverted pleats, tc Gaerne Gatherings are soft folds of fabric placed close together corresponding to the plot of the seam and which are directed to the inside of the body. Gieson Pear ‘An unattached pleat which starts at the end towards the armscye of the shoulder seam; it follows the line of the armscye and then goes downwards, and has a width of almost half of the bust dart Gover A circular sector piece of fabric inserted in a skirt which adds volume to create 2 wavy, quite flared effect Gus " A square pi toot a easerto beta M2 The fabric or placed etcen te 2 tm ning ofthe clothing an ‘mote robust or to pi ‘which are placed under ‘oo ‘tess openings, bls, oct sleeves, cuts flies, ee ‘KIMONO, 4 Roomy sleeve withor shoulders. Mores The characters which set of varios garments ep Norens Small triangular cuts made onthe Contous ofa paper pate in the varius reference pots nda Puce Strip of fabric whch concen fastening on jackets, shits, des Puc on The inner part of a ple on a store shit, des, ete acu A speci way to altach devs starts atthe col with obiqve am vic then extend down use apts Raves On are The tunedover prt of let. ct or overcoat ‘They can be of various shapes and sizes: noche, peaked or hake sas A numbered system wed ton the measurements and propor oe garment and the statue of pen sun ‘An opening applied to skirts, dresses ele both fr practical neat a8 aesthelclinear eso. Sect oF ctan warp ofthe fabri Each pat of he pattern should inact whet Stag ofthe gain Waste ‘ A cut similar to a “yoke” a the upper part of a skirt You A transversal cat mad arto a shit fay the front or back sho Ut Seam on th ried ott Je to te we jacket on vider itYMBOLS AND ABBRI creating a pattern, gradually as each piece is eed to mark it It's necessary to write all indications ‘which may be useful to cutting and sewing the garment. piece (ie, bodice, front, yoke, back ofthe sleeve, cuff, sleeve, ete). The straight gran should be indicated by along line with an arow placed at both ends (« —») or with a fld line on the straight grain. ‘The fold is usually the centre front or centre back line, ‘One commonly used symbol to replace the wards "position on the fold in the fabric” is made up of two arrows connected by a line at a right angle (¥—}) aimed at the part to be positioned. The centre front and centre back lines can be marked with *CF" and “CB” The reference notch marks are lines on the adjacent pieces of ‘pattern which help you match up the seams of various pieces. during the construction process, or which are used as ‘guidelines for gatherings, folds, etc They are diagonal lines on seam dash lines. Henceforth we will implement a small, 3 mm cut in the seam ease of the fabric for each dashed line on the pattern NNotches should and can be placed everywhere if they will be helpful and useful. You can vary the amount (single, double triple) and their location for clarity ‘Mark the point where the fastening will be with a notch and ‘make note of any particular instructions relating to the zip or buttons Indicate decorative details, such where the pockets are to be placed. Decorative stitching can be marked with 2 dashed line ‘Considering that the pattern is made without sewing margins, take note of the fact that they must be added. Erase all unused lines on th final paper pattern and write any other types of instructions which may be useful in the future. It's important to write the name of the person or the company for which the pattern was made, as well as the date it was created. Store the paper pattern in a large envelope. It's also quite important to mark the category of the pattern, INotches or symbols indicating perpendiculanty or joining points Centre or fold line ‘Marks to indicate the position of eyelets and buttons ABBREVIATIONS. $ OF G = Straight of Grain Ease = Fase or gather two different fabric lengths Dg. = Diagonal Dis. = Discard Bi= Bias C.Sh, = Centre shoulder C.F. = Centre front h= Height C.B. = Centre back S.P. = Shoulder point Fac. = Facing kl = Neckline Ft. = Front ‘A. = Armscye point Bk, ~ Back Owr. = Overlap (Opn. = Open Hip D. = Hip division Gth = Gather Ent. frt. = Entire front Al = Aligned Ent. bk. = Entice back Cl. = Close Cl. dt. = Closed dart 19= | oa | atone sith -A very dense embroidery Stewie goway endo cove ab fem win eed atom afem,e oust Enboey seh wh er Simi loa coda sc In adion trivcday a sed to prevert he sles sean or Tals tc Sra to bck sth, but thot ud by tars to alate the tea ne ume Ronnig teh setuenc of equaenth stds whi go Yom gt oe rng ‘Hh tet at he a on Cte ambos hen th stches eat sma am permanent aca ‘est ra bg eh ned abe i Wh oe ager sense Pee: vwlven used on tulle, it creates tence ‘tip o blind stitch Used to afix hems or fae ings The sitches are hid fee Ts ln between the Mois fhe asic and ae not vsble on Taking theca 9h app hy Ebene cis doubled, They ouble oF single tread wth 2% (Eo Nee ge =~ | et or rb Joop, with a simple loop, or with close-togeth erstches, Once the tacking stitches are done, you can open the two pieces of fabric and cut the threads in half, thus creating identical markings on both halves of the material Basting stitch - Stitching used in tailoring to mark doubled fabric. Ths long, straight, beck Stitch s sewn very loosely so that the two pec sof fabric can then be pulled apart and the threads cut at their halfway point, leaving a Seam on each piece of fabric. Catch stitch - A stitch used to affix the folded parts of fabric when, to avoid unnecessary thickness, a hem is not made. It can also be Used to affix fabric margins which wil then be Covered in lining. This dlagonal stitch goes from the lower left to the upper right. then crossing over that stitch in a diagonal line in the opposite direction, creating an X Slip stitch - Often used to affix diferent types ‘of hems and finish the back of trimmings. Gobetin stitch - An embroidery stitch used in Needlepoint. Rows of stitches are worked over ‘wo warp thread and one weft, interwoven with the row below to create a lightly open background, sting ~ Altemating longer or shorter stitches Used to join pieces at (or pats of) fabric, Bast- sone ‘eel deer cor Tre des ton a 2 the previous point. Once on the sete tne ov fe on the receding sich ston thn debater ae Te somes ernie Whipstitch - Usd to unite wo i of seams on‘Although the muscular arrangement of children is similar to that of adults, they have dlfferent proportions. ~ An infant's height is about 4 times the length of his or her head, his/her abdomen is round and his/her legs are short. ~ At one year old, his/her height is about 4 and a half times the length of his/her head. ~ At five year old, his/her height is 5 and a half times the length of his/her head “At ten years old, his height is 6 tin of his/her head, times the length of his/her head. aCHILDREN'S PROPORTIONS AND MEASUREMENTS NOTES ON CHILDREN'S ANATOMY Children’s bone structure is exactly ike that of an adult However, one might say that children’s muscular structure, doesn't exist in that it develops with growth, It's quite important to understand the various characteristics of children's bodies. Even if their bone structure is the same as that of ‘adults @s we already mentioned, their overall shape is continuously changing, at a much faster rate than the body of ‘ fullgrown adult, For this reason, many children's clothing manufacturers have established sizes at two year intervals, That is: one/two years, three/four years, five/six years, seven/ ight years nine/ten years, eleven/twolve years, thirteen/ fourteen years, et. ‘Measurements a few other places by a few centimetres to When creating a handsewn pattern, taking measurements is wearer's movements and fit of the garment, standing with hone andi wear might onset taken WS @ good dea ‘ord oF ribbon a, childs wa steady reference point ec shouldbe made leepng GJ tape nether to taht nor too as factate ty the most important aspect to ensuring the finished garment There's no fited rule to determine the ease measurement ements comes out perfectly. Unfortunately, proper attention isn't may vary depending on ifthe garment tobe more rls fa illustrated on the following pages. the type of fabric used. a YEARS HEIGHT 1 168 162 182 b140 128 bi16 104 P92 1: For catommade garment, te measurements shown here and on ea ofthe selength of he chars, even f the result ofa recent survey at day care centres Every childs diferent and his M school, must be considered approximate and used only to get an from that whichis indicated he 2 hte ar oe 2\ HOW TO TAKE THE MEASUREMENTS ~ ZA \I 4.- CHEST CIRCUMFERENCE Place the measuring tape the armpits. Add the desired fase and then divide in hall, hat. 5-FRONT WAIST LENGTH 6 HIP HEIGHT From the nape of the neck to the From the narrowest part of the waist in the back to the narrowest part of the waist Subtract the back neckline widest part of the hip 2- WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE 3 - HIP CIRCUMFERENCE Pass the measuring tape around the chest, passing under around the waist edd the desired ease and divide in 2X have 4 SHOULDER WIDTH Passing around the widest part Measure from the point of the hips, add the desired ease where one arm joins the and divide in half back to the other and divide in half. \} 8 - BACK WAIST LENGTH From the nape to the narrowest part of the waist, 7 SKIRT LENGTH From the narrowest part of the back waist to the length deste, A Nm GRY) | 9 - SLEEVE LENGTH From the underarm, passing over the elbow to the wrist, with the RIBBON JEL é { THIGH GIR. 10 ARM CIRCUMFERENCE ‘Measure the circumference of the arm in the three points shown in the figure, MEASUREMENTS FOR TROUSERS ‘Measurements for trousers must be taken over the undergarments which are normally worn, standing, evenly distributing weight on both legs, with a natural posture Tie an elastic or ribbon around the waist, without pulling it too tight, to have a reference point to use to take the measurement and for greater precision. 3) KNEE HEIGHT TBUAR tte TOTAL CROTCH cRoren grotes FEIGHT LEG CIRCUMFERENCE The measurements to take, depending on the trousers, ae: upper thigh; mid-thigh, knee, calf, BCOMMERCIAL SIZES FOR CHILDREN the word *size" is used in production to indicate the TM grements, the proportions and the height of the person oy people wh are meant to wear the garments Chlaren's sizes are divided with different systems, which vary sccordng tothe production compar. a es aesrbed inthe 600k are all made with the treasurements from our European anthropomorphic chart, For thie reason, the heights are quite reliable with respect to the ‘rational average for children, In addition, we'll also consider a System adopted by international companies and wel divide it into three categories, determining a company specialisation for each category: new-born, baby and child Insan This category includes the garments of children of both sexes from birth up to 9/12 months approximately. It can be sublvided according to months or in sizes: Extra Small (XS), Small (5), Medium (M), Large (L) and Extra Large (XL) = Sample garment: Medium (M). The attbution to the age category may not be very reliable and it's always better to refer to the child's length Baay RST STEPS Babies of both sexes from 9-12 months to 2-3 years belong to this group. It can be divided in months or in: 17 - 27 - 3, Sample garment: 2T. You will need to refer to the child's height in order to choose the size to use for this category as well cn The "Child" category includes the garments of children of both sexes from 3 to 12 yeas old It can be classified by sizes 29/98, 31/104, 32/110, 33/116. 34/122, 36/728, 37/134, 38/140, 40/146, 42/152 (or similar numbers), in which the acjacent numbers refer to the semcircumference ofthe chest (ease), othe hip for trousers and to the height. Alternatively, afew types of garments characterised by loose fits suchas tshits, they can be classified by letters: XS (Extra Smal), 23 years; $ (Small), 3-4 years; M (Medium), 5-6 years (Large), 78 years, XL (Extra Large), 9-10 years; XXL (trom Double to Extra Large), 17-13 years Sample garment: Medium (Nt) MesuREWENTS FOR NeweORN ROMPERS In general, the Benetal the ultrasound provides some information on the baby’s size and one can 2st don can ay lsh wl ag te che a he hl is susoen(inse iy Tb), If the chil ma (oh i bam s/he measures between 47 to 187%) and weighs about 2.83.2 kg (6.2- M's smaller, you can opt for size 00 rompers f s/he grows bigger, you can S Chids | Average | Romper | Shit) Tema’ ‘age | height | length | length | lenght Temenbs [sen 2VZ2 | en (Gn) | aeom(UPA | Meena] Smonte | sien(en) | Sem (209m) | zeen(a) [stonttte ‘monte [Ben 268 9) | ST em (22am) | soson(tn) basen a | [MEASUREMENTS FOR CHILD'S SHORT SLEEVE CREW NECKTIE ‘Sze. TengihA, engin XS 2 years) Base (32m) | aOSonUsaeL 'S (3 years) ‘adem (134i | sen (tea MGi6 yrs) 36 om (142in) (7B years) ‘ag em (16010) XL (G/10 years) |_41.5.em (16.350) BXL (1012 years) [45cm (177) te obtained by following the above table on the inet i rompers. The line with arrows indicates where 0 measurement: shoulderheel forthe romper, shou the tshirt and waistheel forthe trousersCOMMERCIAL MEASUREMENT CHART FOR INFANTS/BABIES WITHOUT EASE ‘After careful research and a comparison various ages (months and years), circu ‘measurements, lengths, and heights of many children, after comparing the charts of newboms/babies' clothing. = producers, we were able to create a chart whi Consulted each time which you ae to create pattems for children's garments. It should be emphasised that each child is different and his/her measurements drastically from those indicated in the chart: for custom garments, the measurements inthis understood to be approximate, useful only to have an idea ofthe width/length of the garment to be garments made with industrial sizing, it should be noted that each company has its own chart, accor clentele, the area or the country which the garments are tobe sent NB: The measurement ofthe crcumteence ofthe h between imference ich may be |ew:|on. may vary Therefore, ischart are iy e made, For ding to its pss ob adjusted, cco othe deed amount alan crete he tah Ose. [age em Poona [aaa mei ee Height GS | latte flats at oa aaa aaa Head orcumerence [iu pate anon oa | a aal Neck ola it taal aati ata Back necking oti att | atn|s8a nh cat i Bust cir. wenn natn att ob pn Hip. sHolotalosialmgalat righ of Bolo alatala Knee ct bal Pane ct Upper arm i Wit ec [Front chest wh Back shoulder width [Sector width lata Bust vergence [ann ‘Shoulder length ot Jatin ee Backwaistengh [asta [ei cla |Frontwastlenghh—[aatina falafn ua Palate ramp evel rm ial ees Sleeve length Fa oda aes Hip height rem oie vi roi height i es eledalad Conte Wiist-knee height ae [arial edtalafin|aital eB ialafafaltialatn sala Watstbotom off200 [iy [einen tn fh aetna stata oe ee Beeiig etal aha | cia lak Sal odal eB | wild Foot engi pe FP alas aaa os yrements in this table are to be considered approximate and used only to get an idea of the proportions For custom garments, Mess TAGE VALUES NGCORONG TO THE TYPE OF GARWENT ES saat Tarot | ta rsoronmr [5a] Sa [i | S| [a] | Se The ease of a garment is the amount [eresceonens [atv aoa ladon | atin ata ft which is added to the various |astcieunteerce sila eae measurements taken of the person or [rig craneerce ln a Sennen to those which the industrial size chart [rroncrest wat ost sta usta stl atten reports and is used to allow the [aakenouer wan ale saibal fbalowteal atte garment to adapt to the movements of [exer wa i sata luis 2 the wearer, The amount to add or HBsswesea sepa iene baa subtract depends on the type of fabric [upeeromoremomed fatal Bats [adeal wala |ontan [ait | edi dal and the ines of the pattern. Tigh remieeres Laat These vals can change according to the fabric, personal syle and the dictates of caret fashions 25\saNDINHOAL ONDIVWNUSLLVd NOISY Ht NewsorN TABLE‘hom wor premopresseditionscom/Downloa ZBBMQACCHAR end have it printed by ats You can download the PDF fle ‘promation cade:How TO USE THE TABLE Already knowing the circumference of the chest, already, increased by the ease, on the form choose the base which corresponds to the measurements taken (or which are closest), Then take a piece of transparent paper which is long enough, and, holding the paper stil with pins or something else, copy the outline of the chosen base form, trying not to change the. pattern’s lines and paying attention to the distinguishing numbers so as not to confuse one size with another ‘Once you have diligently copied the outline of the base pattern with the respective chest line, divide said measurement in two equal parts, In our case, 38:2 = 19 (7.48%), creating wing the paper pattern with pins ‘After appropriately afi fr something else, trace the outline of the base youve chosen 28 starting fom the underarm to the ey bot at ha ofthe font an hal fhe ae m8 fone of the main points for the side sean, Then, starting from the upper back half on th. dow, marking the waste, the hip andthe tas in the figure. Wf the child has a normal conformation, al the must correspond as in the indicated pattern note aditference in afew of them, youl necteo modify the base, folowing the instuctonsspeafey ae pages dedicated to abnormal body shapes ' Rest the form on the table and aff it with adhesive tre then rest a piece of tracing paper over the formNewborns Base bodice for newborns Shirt with back fastening Gown with gathering Gown with yoke Gown layout on fabric Dress - gown Dress with yoke and flounce Dress with yoke and back fastening Dress with front motif Formal dress Hooded coat Gown and knickers Romper. ‘Apron romper with sleeves, ‘One-piece romper with bib. Apron romper with open sides BiogeMen. Booties and mittens... Bonnet... ‘Smocking Stripes, Hide, bing an and lace 1) Christening gown. Christening bonnet . Erercises for newborn garments. 29NewBoORNS en's fashion changes each season, influenced Toth of adults: it offers both new and classe ‘ideas together, vy Tnasorms and it is enviched by thousands of unexpected i wadern deal, Before making garments fOr children, it's important to know a few essential rules sresal garments worn by newborns ealy on should be made in natoni, allrgentree materials In natural bres (eg. een, nen and sik) and possible in ight colours sea ractialty and comfort mst be the hallmarks of dresses ‘or ambos, e.g. rompers which open at the crotch, body. were with very wade necklines for the head to fit through, ompers with side buttons and hooks. In summary. avoid con Striking the baby in unsuitable, uncomfortable clothing Sacre make too many garments for one newborn 25a this age babies gow quite quicly and many garments wil end up in the closet, never even worn. vi tt would be equally misdirected to give the baby onesie} dha rompers which are a size too big (tat for 3 months) with the ides that they can be used for longer. During the first few months, newborn babies need to fee! enveloped just a5 they, were in the womb, and to suddenly be swimming in an enor nous romper won't hep the baby adjust tothe outside word Ite better to just have a few changes of clothing, for example 3 or 4 garments in size O and 3 or 4 in size 1, adapting to the child's size in future purchases. I's also important to remem ber that the size estimate provided by the ultrasound aren't aways exact and a cid who, for example, hypothetically Should weigh over 4 kg (8.8 Ib), might end up weighing just 3 kg (66 Ib) Today even child WHAT EVERY NEWBORN BABY'S Wa HAVE {Upon leaving hospital) I the baby ¥ bom in winter, s/he 1 er, cole Come era Tn any ease i's better to ingue a to what th the maternity ward of the hospital where ‘head born, In fact, some want nappies, others silk tops (a : Stn tay) and so on. For a change of thes spurcan make quite fabric bags in Ada abc wth ‘Pred name, It's also good to remember to prepare scones forthe day baby leaves the spl made ee thers, but with the addition of a padded baby. sat eitose padded romper Shoes and loves ae eles ed annoying, while mittens can be useful in preventing the ip ‘one from scratching his/her face. s srecorn wil need atleast a dozen complete ot A rt reed wo case edle ‘emergencies that may arise, including regurgitation, inabot OO ne a york ene reat Stans take longer to dy and having a spr charge hes around certainly does hurt coors garments in synthe or ile kown brea bey re follow al sfety standards and be made with i ts oarments with bows aes, or Sal buts i Tr gaby tight beable to put in fs/her mouth nd sale ee artptarge tems; accessories such 3 aces bas es aera nists, synthetic tight, hghaek sees playpens, highchair, toys (these will be useful later on. 30MEASUREMENTS FOR 6 MONTHS ~ bust circumference em ~ waist circumference cm + hip circumference cm front waist length cm ~ back waist length cm .. BODICE CONSTRUCTION = Draw a right angle AC, with = AB equal to the front waist length ~ B.C equal tothe chest semi- circumference ~ 1/2 ease CD back waist length BE half of BC; AF lke 8 Draw EF (CENTRE SIDE) ~ DH half of CD Draw H-1 (CHEST LINE) ~ DG 1/2 shoulder width + 0.5 em (020%) ~ HHT ike 0. ~ Draw HI. + 1-11 lke Ht ~ 0.5 em (0.20%) Draw 111 parallel to H1-L1- + HL 1/3 of DH. ~ Draw LM, Back = GO 1m (0.39%, + DN 1/3 DG +0.3 em (0.12%) = NP 11cm (0,39"). Draw DP. ~ Draw P.-P1 by the measurements L Ron] TL, aarrduoice Shoulder Length ~ Point © hall of H-1 = Draw PH-L1-0 lke in the figure. Front ~ ALU 1/3 DG of the back + 0.5 em (0.20%. ~ Draw the curved line UU1. - V2 cm (0.79%), + Draw UZ by measure equal to PP1 of the back + Draw 2-0 like in te figure. SLEEVE CONSTRUCTION = Draw a rectangle ABEF with: ‘A sleeve length- A like the measute ofthe bodice sector + 4/2 of the sector. = A-Glike L1-P1 of the bodice + 11¢m (039) ~ Draw GX. Join GE with a diagonal line, ~ AN half of ABH. = Join NP, ~ AL half of AE. = Draw LL - W half of Ge = Bat 1 cm (0.39% from Lt. ~ €1 half of E12 ~ Gt half of GL2. + Draw E12-G with a curved lin lke in the figure. + Draw E-G1-G with a curved line lke in the figure + Draw 81-13 with a curved line. Draw 8141 with a curved line. Take up the sleeve of the front and of the back and draw the whole sleeve like in the figure. 3SHIRT WITH BACK FASTENING ‘SUN SHIRT | Front Bovice BACK BODICE FRONT AND BACK FLOUNCE E Ee i FRONT AND BACK FRILL ‘ ERTRE ROSE A “| : rectangle in te | Create the 1/2 front and back fil This pattern is quite simple because it is made up of simple height and width. aralengnet Hla _ Nee an i weier wast vnin st | recreate a rectangle forthe front and backin a length equal to 01/2 the waist circumference pluseRse aT the semicircumference of the chest and the desired height vs messromets paced in te ni’ 2 et _esemicramirec of ech a ene Menon teae cca pate or that ofthe deed se, aceon height and width desired. 32 |BODICE Draw a rectangle ABCD, with ‘A.B equal to the chest circumference plus ease suitable for the age and fabric. ‘AC equal to the desired height, AC half of AB, Draw EF. + EH 4 om (1.57%). El lke EH, F-Q 13.5 cm (5.31%) Draw a curved line HQ and 1.0. Draw 45 lines above to carry out the smocking or the gathering. aaa. Sea ERONT BACK ss oes | SLEEVE Draw a rectangle ABCD, with: = AB equal tothe sleeve circumference gathering + AC equal to the desired sleeve length. + AF half of AB. Draw EF + EH 11.7 cm (4.61") (4.61). Bl like EH, + CQ1 2.5 cm (4.92"), D-O1 like CQ. = Draw with a curved line H-Q and LO. + EE1 2 cm (0,79") CENTRE SHOULDER. + Draw 445 lines above to carry out the smacking or the gathering. NB: The measurements displayed in the pattei construction explana. tions are by way of example only. For the canstrction of custom pat- tems, appl the measurements taken divecty from the cd, fora certain size pattern, use the Measurement Chart shown this book or another 3GOwN WITH YOKE " * oarner FRONT BODICE Draw the base of the newborn's bodice with reasurements appropriate for the age- At, HH, Hit and 881 5 cm (1.97) for yoke. ccentmernont YOKE «Create the base of the bodice according oy to the measurements of the chil = Uzi 5 cm (1.97") nesTiNe U2 5 am (197") wl Draw Z1-U2_ [__swouoen ume P25 em (1.97"), DD1 5 cm (1.97"). aust une = Draw P2.01 | =a Lenape icensne i ‘SLEEVE Draw a rectangle ABCD, with: | ~ AB equal to the sleeve circumference suitable for the gathering _ iC equa to the desired sleeve lent At half of A. Draw EF © EH 117 om (4.617. Ed ke EH | = CQ 12.5 em (4.92"). D-Q1 like ca. ~ Draw with a curved ine H-Q and -O | Et 2m (0.79) CENTRE SHOUL Draw the Bee (1.97% straight ine F141 FO" Hor? carry out the gathering 34 S|Dress - GOWN PUFF SLEEVE oeiten al Draw the base ofthe botice with 7 Per rien whihfcareqpond te ieage ||! mal ameriae \ cre fell Of the ld fom the CHART. " — —* Create the line of the yoke at the desired t if height Create the extension forthe gathering which is usualy one and a haf tmes the anid ofthe yoke an, the fabric is lighter, can ako be double catty out the stocking youll need to cetend the width ofthe yoke thrice Draw the extension ofthe centre back by 1152 cm (0,590.73 forthe fastening ~ Create the desed length and take up the parts ofthe pater. NB: The measurement ofthe radius to craw the base ofthe ola s found by malting half ofthe ol cicunvrence by 4, then dividing by 318. 36mee || y This pattern can be made with folds, box pleats or only with ‘godé, according to how much abundance is stated inthe sizes. ‘The pattern should be made by constructing the base of the bodice with desired measurements, implementing the changes listed in the diagram.——S BACK FASTENING Dress WITH YOKE AND _syowoenume | 8 ay wort _|___ 8 5 5 sous Bopice ‘Draw the base ofthe bodice with measurements suitable ioe to the age of the child. Jproutves Extend the line ofthe centre front 881 and of the centre back CC% according to the desired length, Draw the line of the yoke 12-42 at the desired height (2 cm/0.79* from the chest line) Extend the line of the yoke 1243 8 cm (3.15%) and H2-H3, 6 cm, for the gathering. Shift the line ofthe side at the bottom by 2 cm (0.79") for in order to create a flare Extend the centre back for the fastening lke as in the diagram. Dra if desived, the faux strip on the centre front SLEEVE Create the short sleeve, already explained before 38FORMAL DRESS TARTS OD: UPPER, ~ ffeale the base ofthe bodice with the measurements taken {ome chil or with thos inthe chart acording othe age. Lovie the back extension forthe fastening ike the figure Lower sreie the hal cicle sit se the constuction futher on inthe book) with a walst circumference inerencea bya essurement fr sight gathering Length as desea 40 be peso} EVE COLLAR reat the colar jong the shoulder, overipping i to as desired when uprigl tothe back tot . rat 1571 )THEW CENTRE FRONT NEW CENTRE BACK HOODED CoaT ~ Draw the base of the bodice with measurements suitable to the age of the child and with ease for a cape + Create the desired length Draw the line of the yoke to the desired height. ~ Create the 6-8 cm (2.363.15") extension of the centre back and of the centre front for the gathering ~ Create the flare in the desired measurement Create the 2 cm (0.79") extension for the overlap of the fastening fu front 3/ Back cre fl q HOOD = Draw a rectangle ABCD with + A equal tothe height which goes fom the front neckline a tothe extremity of the head a . ~ BC equal tothe measurement whch gos from one ‘temple to another, passing by the nape. ~ BBI 1.5 om (0.59"), = CCI 1.0m (0.39%), a ~ BE half of B.C. Draw a 3 cm (1.18") dart which is 8 em eae 3.15" high 1 ~ Round point D as desired [arent cm ner “1 aieGOWN AND KNICKERS ioe o--loo-. Waist UNE Pl 2 GOWN Draw the base ofthe bodice with measurements suitable to the age of the child from the CHART. Create the desied length ~ Greate the extension of the centre back forthe fastening ‘Create the flare in the desied width ~ Draw the yoke and the flared motif on the front. Draw line M2-82 forthe pleat, cut and leave 8 cm (315% fom the top to the bottom flamer ERONT a2 KNICKERS ~ Draw a rectangle AB-CO, with = AB equal to the crotch height. , B.C equal to the hip circumference plus sua = BE half of BC, Draw EF, Side line = C155 cm (2.17) - FEL 17 cm (6.69") = CC27 cm (2.76") evo cee, Draw C1-C2ETS2 wih ACNE ph eee Sens or tet es © ppt 2 em (0.79%, Draw DEFAAT See ens ett | 2 praw the inst sleeve with mes rec the cl ke he Bo yy te + Cut along the fold line and open + bottom, wsROMPER Draw the base of the bodice from the CHART with the child's measurements, or carry out the construction according to the chart Create the extension of the centre back and of the centre front for the 18-20 cm (7.09°7.87") gathering, to the desired yoke height. Create the outline for the crotch with the fastening ‘underneath, On the centre back, carry out the 1.5 em (0.59%) extension forthe fastening. ‘Greate the 2 em (0.79") extension on the bottom of the side, for the flaring, + Take up the front and back yoke and the remaining part of the pattern, Je yoxe: FRONT (Kes PUFF SLEEVE Jondutben ae so} COLLAR NB: Te length ofthe aus to draw the collar bac sound by multipin hal ofthe colar crcumerence by 4, then diving by 314 43ONE-PIECE ROMPER WITH BIBrowcencx | ~ Greate the base ofthe bodice with direct measurements or ‘those suitable to the child's age as in the chart. i ~ Extend 8-81 and EE1 of the front and GC1 and E£1 on the “STAND 2NO FLOUNCE FRONT back of the measurement all the way to the child's thigh, i el i ~ Transform the bodice and of the shorts as shown in the figure ~ Greate the collar, the faux flap of the crotch and the Ro FLowNcE FRONT flounces, a illustrated. a i 47