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Collection of information on different textile parameter requirements for any

two textile products from apparel or home textile category.

Technical Report · July 2021

DOI: 10.13140/RG.2.2.34933.50405

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 NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY,
GANDHINAGAR

INTERDISCIPLINARY MINOR
TEXTILE TESTING & QUALITY CONTROL

ASSIGNMENT-1
Collection of information on different textile parameter
requirements for any two textile products from apparel or home
textile category.

DATE – 19.03.2020

SUBMITTED TO- SUBMITTED BY -

PROF. MANISH BHARGAVA SAYANTAN RAHA (MFT/19/88)

1
1. Product taken as example – Cotton jersey (baby garment)

Figure 1 : Pictures of three piece knitted jersey set

PRODUCT BACKGROUND

END USE – baby garment-whole body, next to skin.

SIZE - Long sleeve

Round - neck

Composition - Cotton 95%, Elastane 5%

Care instructions - Machine wash at 40°

Colour/Print - White/Light grey marl

MARKETED OR IMPORTED BY

H&M; Hennes & Mauritz Retail Pvt. Ltd.

2
Cotton

Cotton is the fibre material that needs a challenging environment & a lot of water to grow. The brand H&M using
three types of sustainably sourced cotton: organic cotton, which is grown without chemical pesticides and fertilisers,
and contains no genetically modified organisms; recycled cotton, which comes from used garments and textile
leftovers; and cotton sourced through the BCI (Better Cotton Initiative), which helps reduce stress on the local
environment and improves the welfare of farming communities.

Elastane

Conventional elastane is a commonly used fibre which gives fabric elasticity. The fibre is made from oil which is a
fossil resource. We are exploring the development of sustainable alternatives to conventional elastane, such as
recycled elastane and bio-based elastane.

H&M generally refers to International, Chinese & European standard methods (ISO, GB & EN) which are possible to
purchase worldwide. For tests referring to H&M methods the test method, sampling and definition is found in H&M
Lab manual. Specification of equipment and consumables are found in the H&M Lab manual. All requirements are
given in minimum value.

Size group - Baby’s wear, Size - 44-86 cl.

Abbreviations used in this document CF = Colour fastness CIL (mcd/lux) = millicandela per lux cl= centilong g = gram
g/m2 = gram per square meter g/m Pa = gram per meter Pascal hours mm = millimetre mm/s = millimetre per
second N = Newton Nm = Newton meter OBA = Optical Brightening Agents rev = revolutions sec = seconds W =
Wales (per inch)

CHEMICAL PROPERTIES :-

COLOUR FASTNESS PROPERTIES

TEST STANDARD METHODS PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS

CF to dry rubbing ISO 105-X12 Baby’s products 4
Face & reverse side. Before & after
wash or dry clean
CF to water ISO 105-E01 or Chinese standard For all baby products Colour staining: 3-4
GB/T 5713 Change in colour: 4 Cross
staining: 4-5
Textiles: Use ISO or GB adjacent
fibre Other: Use multifibre
CF to oil Modified DIN 53160 Baby’s & children’s garment No discoloration
in size 44-104 cl
Use olive oil (or similar oil used for
cooking) instead of saliva solution
Before and after wash
CF to perspiration ISO 105-E04 or Chinese standard Baby’s textile products Acid & Alkaline Colour
GB/T 3922 staining: 3-4 Change in
colour: 3-4 Cross
staining: 4-5

3
CF to hot pressing ISO 105-X11 Textile details such as prints, Colour staining - 4
labels, badges, and other Change in colour: 4 Cross
trims in contrast colours. staining: 4-5
CF to phenolic ISO 105-X18 For all baby garment Change in colour: 4
yellowing
CF to saliva Chinese standard GB/T 18886 Baby’s products Colour staining: 4
Change in colour: 4 Cross
staining: 4-5

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

TEST STANDARD METHODS PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS

Deviation of fibre ISO 1833 All textile products If 100% of the same fibre,
content no deviation is allowed
If fibre blend:
Fibre Tolerance
content %
≤ 1% +/- 0,3
>1%-2% +/- 0,6
>2%-3% +/- 0,9
>3%-4% +/- 1,2
>4%-9% +/- 1,5

Dimensional ISO 6330, ISO 3759 & ISO 5077 Baby products with care Knitted fabric: Length: +/-
stability to instructions, possible to wash 5% Width: +/- 5%
household Detergent for coloured in water
laundering garments. Whole garments,
no dummy loading.
Appearance after 5 5 times washing and drying Products with care No major change
times wash cycles instructions, possible to wash
(for knit) in water
(see Dimensional stability to
household laundering)
Dimensional ISO 3759 Products with care instruction Knitted fabric: Length ± 5%
stability to dry “dry clean only” or dry clean Width ± 5%
clean (for knit) as optional cleaning method
Twisting ISO 16322-2 Products with care 1 cm or less twisting is
Measure after wash at bottom instructions, possible to wash within the tolerance for all
hem in water types of baby garments.

(see Dimensional stability to

household laundering)
Air permeability ISO 9237 For all baby outer wear < 20 mm/s

4
Snagging ASTM D 3939 Fabrics in knitted microfibre Warp & weft: 3
resistance

Pull force test EN 71-1 Baby’s & children’s products 90N

All buttons / accessories,
which fits completely into the
small part testing cylinder

Wicking JIS L1907 Section 7.1.5, Functional baby wear with Knitted: > 8 cm after 30min
performance Vertical wicking. Before wash “quick dry” function
and after 10 times wash
Pilling resistance - ISO 12945-1 Knitted textile products 14400 REV : 3
ICI pilling box The test should be performed
before wash
Use the grading scheme and
EMPA photo scales when
evaluating

2.Product taken as example – Women Swimwear (adult garment)

Figure 2 : Women’s beachwear

PRODUCT DETAILS -

BRAND – H&M

ITEM NAME: Women Beach Dress Lace Chiffon Crochet Bikini Cover Up Swimwear Bathing Suit Women Fashion
Loose Fitted Embroidery Bathing Suit Bikini.

5
End Use – Top wear

Features: flower pattern delicate embroidery

Material: 100% Rayon, woven

Weave - plain

Colour: White

Size: One Size

Size groups - Adult’s wear Ladies’; Sizes - 32-56, XS - 3XL;

CHEMICAL PROPERTIES :-

COLOUR FASTNESS PROPERTIES

TEST STANDARD METHODS PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS

CF to artificial light ISO 105 –B02 Beach wear like Swimwear - Change in colour – 4
- Xenon test Method 2 fabrics including embroidery, (beachwear), 5
print etc. (embroidery, print etc).

CF to wet rubbing ISO 105 X12 Swimwear Functional outer 3

wear
Face & reverse side Before &
after wash or dry clean

CF to water ISO 105-E01 or Chinese All products Colour staining : 3-4

standard GB/T 5713
Change in colour: 4
Textiles: Use ISO or GB adjacent
fibre Other: Use multifibre Cross staining: 4-5

CF to chlorinated ISO 105-E03 concentration of Swimwear fabrics including Change in colour: 4 Cross
water chlorine 50 mg/ embroidery print etc. staining: 4-5

Swimwear in white colour with Change in colour: 3-4

OBA Cross staining: 4-5

CF to sea water ISO 105-E02 Swimwear Colour staining: 3-4

Change in colour: 4 Cross
staining: 4-5
CF to perspiration ISO 105-E04 or Chinese Adult’s & children’s textile Acid & Alkaline Colour
standard GB/T 3922 product staining: 3 Change in
colour: 3 Cross staining:
Use ISO or GB adjacent fabric, 4-5
or multifibre
CF to phenolic ISO 105-X18 All products Change in colour: 4
yellowing

6
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES

TEST STANDARD METHODS PRODUCT REQUIREMENTS

Deviation of fibre ISO 1833 For all textile products If 100% of the same fibre,
content no deviation is allowed
If fibre blend:
Fibre Tolerance
content %
≤ 1% +/- 0,3
>1%-2% +/- 0,6
>2%-3% +/- 0,9
>3%-4% +/- 1,2
>4%-9% +/- 1,5

Dimensional ISO 6330, ISO 3759 & ISO 5077 Products with care Woven fabric: Length: +/-
stability to instructions, possible to wash 3% Width: +/- 3%
household Detergent for coloured in water
laundering garments. Whole garments, no
dummy loading.
Dimensional ISO 3759 Products with care instruction Woven fabric: Length: +/-
stability to dry “dry clean only” or dry clean 3% Width: +/- 3%
clean as optional cleaning method

Pilling resistance - ISO 12945-2 The test should be Woven textile products 2000 REV : 3
Martindale performed before wash

Use the grading scheme and

EMPA photo scales when
evaluating

Seam slippage ISO 13936-2 Woven textile fabrics weight Seam opening ≤ 6 mm
The dimensions of the clamping
area shall be 25mm x 25 mm. >220 g/ m2 – load applied
The other jaw of each clamp in 120N
a perpendicular direction shall
be 25 mm x at least 40 mm
wide.

Tear strength ISO 13937-2 Woven textile fabrics Tops / >90N

The width of the jaws should be
75 mm, but should not be less
than the width of the test
specimen.
Water penetration EN 20811 or ISO 811 Increase of
water pressure 60 cmH2O/min
dresses
Not applicable for light weight
fabrics < 90 g/m2, as
georgette voile
Functional outer wear with Fabric & over
“waterproof” function sealed/taped seams

7
 Temp. of water 20°C
After 5 washing/drying
The requirement applies to cycles: > 2000 mm
lowest received value, not the
mean value.
Water vapour ISO15496 Measure before Functional outer wear with ≥ 0,1 g/m2 Pa
wash “breathable” function
Wicking JIS L1907 Section 7.1.5, Vertical Functional wear with “quick Woven: > 5 cm after
performance wicking. Before wash and after dry” function 30min
10 times wash

REFERENCES –

1. https://www.childsafetyeurope.org/publications/info/product-safety-guide.pdf
2. http://garmentstech.com/wicking-test-or-fabric-water-repellency-test-or-water-absorbency-of-textiles-
test-procedure/
3. https://www.iso.org/obp/ui/#iso:std:34471:en
4. https://infostore.saiglobal.com/preview/is/en/2016/i.s.eniso105-x12-2016.pdf?sku=1875134
5. http://static.i7colors.com/bbs/attachment/forumid_20/20110828_cc2f7e0f2e9a779df3ff89kC9ayVcu0k.at
tach
6. https://www.en-standard.eu/din-53160-1-determination-of-the-colourfastness-of-articles-for-common-
use-part-1-test-with-artificial-saliva/
7. https://infostore.saiglobal.com/preview/98700264280.pdf?sku=866716_saig_nsai_nsai_2061357
8. https://law.resource.org/pub/eac/ibr/eas.244.2001.pdf
9. https://www.iso.org/obp/ui/#iso:std:iso:105:-X18:ed-1:v1:en
10. https://www.chinesestandard.net/PDF/English.aspx/GBT18886-2019
11. https://www.iso.org/standard/40561.html
12. https://www.techstreet.com/standards/iso-3759-2011?product_id=1798031
13. https://www.iso.org/standard/16869.html
14. https://www.astm.org/Standards/D3939.htm
15. file:///C:/Users/str12/AppData/Local/Packages/Microsoft.MicrosoftEdge_8wekyb3d8bbwe/TempState/D
ownloads/FTEE_73_55%20(1).pdf
16. https://www.wewontech.com/testing-standards/190125061.pdf
17. https://www.iso.org/standard/57962.html
18. https://www.iso.org/standard/52252.html
19. https://www.iso.org/obp/ui/#iso:std:iso:13936:-2:ed-1:v1:en
20. https://www.sis.se/api/document/preview/616494/
21. https://global.ihs.com/doc_detail.cfm?document_name=BS%20EN%2020811&item_s_key=00157239
22. https://www.sis.se/api/document/preview/80003187/

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