Global Quality Department

Valid for all brands in H&M group

January 2014

H&M FABRIC SUPPLIER LAB GUIDELINE

Versions of document
Version Date Changes Made Page
1:1 2014-01-10 Original Document
Table of Content
1 Introduction .................................................................................................... 2
1.1 Benefits for supplier lab ............................................................................. 2
1.2 Responsibilities ......................................................................................... 2
2 H&M Lab Accreditation Process .......................................................................... 3
3 Test routine .................................................................................................... 3
4 Test results ..................................................................................................... 3
5 Test reports .................................................................................................... 3
6 Tests possible to be approved for ....................................................................... 4
7 Lab equipment and consumables ....................................................................... 5
7.1 Specifications............................................................................................ 5
7.2 Calibration and purchasing ......................................................................... 6
Appendix A ........................................................................................................... 7

1 INTRODUCTION

1.1 Benefits for supplier lab

CONGRATULATIONS! BY RECEIVCING THIS GUIDELINE YOU EITHER ARE, OR ARE ABOUT TO BECOME
A SELECTED H&M FABRIC SUPPLIER TO BE ACCREDITED TO PERFORM TESTS ON BEHALF ON H&M.

One of the main advantages of having an H&M approved in-house lab is the possibility to
secure fabric before shipping to garment supplier. Possible quality problems will be found
earlier and it will be easier and faster to locate the reason and rectify it, which will reduce
the costs and lead time. Another benefit is to be able to test many more lots. With
constantly increasing quantities, this is essential to be able to secure the whole
production. Testing in-house is more practical and economic, as H&M will trust approved
suppliers test reports.

1.2 Responsibilities

Fabric supplier is responsible for performance of the fabric only. It is garment suppliers´
responsibility to secure that fabric and all other components (such as lining, details, and
garment washes/prints/treatments) are a suitable combination. It is of outmost
importance that fabric and garment supplier have a close communication. Fabric supplier
must inform garment supplier if a certain fabric is not suitable for a specific
treatment/wash/print.

H&M Fabric supplier lab guideline 2(7)

Version 1:1
2 H&M LAB ACCREDITATION PROCESS
Before fabric supplier get an H&M approved in-house following needs to be fulfilled.

• Fabric supplier must have a settled well-functioning lab, with equipment specified
in this document.
• Fabric supplier must appoint lab technicians, we recommend having at least two
lab technicians in case one resigns.
• The lab technicians must be educated by H&M QA team.
• The lab technicians must pass correlation tests. The correlation test will be
evaluated based on both test results and assessment.

After approval H&M will randomly make tests to make sure the tests and assessments
are continuously done correctly. Supplier must inform H&M immediately when an
approved lab technician resigns.

3 TEST ROUTINE
Approved fabric supplier lab technician shall perform test according to what is given
approval for. All shipments to garment supplier must fulfil the parameters given in the
FTD.

For parameters which differ from batch to batch, i.e. wash*, pH and all colour fastness
(except phenolic yellowing), shall be performed on each batch.

Other tests shall be performed on first and last batch only.

*Wash test includes CF to household laundering, CF to dry rubbing/wet rubbing,

dimensional stability to household laundering and twisting.

For information about how to perform the tests see H&M Lab manual.

4 TEST RESULTS
All test results shall be evaluated based on FTD.

5 TEST REPORTS
Copies of test reports shall follow the shipment of the fabric to garment supplier. The
originals shall together with the tested specimens be kept for minimum six month and
available for H&M to inspect.

Fabric supplier must provide test reports to garment supplier for every fabric delivery.

H&M Fabric supplier lab guideline 3(7)

Version 1:1
6 TESTS POSSIBLE TO BE APPROVED FOR

Test Standard Method

CF to household laundering H&M Method according to H&M Lab Manual. (based on
ISO 6330, ISO 3759 & ISO 5077)
CF to dry rubbing/wet rubbing ISO 105-X12
Dimensional stability to household H&M Method according to H&M Lab Manual.
laundering (based on ISO 6330, ISO 3759 & ISO 5077)
Twisting H&M method according to H&M Lab Manual.
Measure after wash at bottom hem
(see Dimensional stability to household laundering)
Appearance after 5 time wash H&M Method according to H&M Lab Manual.
5 times washing and drying cycles
(see Dimensional stability to household laundering)
CF to water ISO 105-E01 or Chinese standard
GB/T 5713
Sampling & definition according to H&M Lab manual
CF to perspiration ISO 105-E04 or Chinese standard GB/T 3922
Sampling & definition according to H&M Lab manual
CF to phenolic yellowing ISO 105-X18
CF to saliva Chinese standard GB/T 18886
Sampling & definition according to H&M Lab manual
pH EN1413:1998 or ISO 3071-1989
Tear strength ISO 13937-2
Tensile strength ISO 13934-2
Seam slippage ISO 13936-2
Pilling resistance (Martindale) ISO 12945-2
Pilling resistance (ICI pilling box) ISO 12945-1
Pile loss abrasion resistance ISO 12947-2/AC Annex A:2
Data colour -

H&M Fabric supplier lab guideline 4(7)

Version 1:1
7 LAB EQUIPMENT AND CONSUMABLES

7.1 Specification
Equipment Specification
Calculator -
Colour spectrophotometer see Supplier Color guidebook.
Detergent type for colored products (according to local PO). Shall
fulfill H&M Chemical restrictions and preferably be
phosphate free.
Drying racks -
Iron & Iron board Household style
Light box see Supplier Color guidebook.
Measuring tape Measuring in cm

Scissors -
Tumble dryer Should have two temperature settings high (70°C) and
low 50 (°C).
Wash machine See Appendix A for wash machine specification
Water proof mark pens white and black
pH meter -
Acrylic or glass plates measuring approximately 115mm x 60mm x 1,5mm.
Crockmeter complying with ISO 105-X12
Distilled water -
Glass bowl -
Oven without an air-circulating fan or possibility to turn the fan
off.
Perspirometer stainless steel frame complying with ISO standards.
Weight piece mass ~5kg so that a pressure of 12,5kPa can be applied
on the specimens (according to ISO standards).
ICI Pilling tester complying with ISO 12945-1.
Martindale complying with ISO 12945-2
Titan complying with ISO 13937-2

Consumables Specification
Crocking cloth ISO 105-F09, size: 50x50mm or in running meters.

Grey scales for assessing EN 20105-A02 or ISO 105-A02

change in colour
Grey scales for assessing En 20105-A03 or ISO 105-A03
staining
Multifibre type DW
BHT free polyethylene film 400mm x 200mm, ~63µm thick
Control papers 100mmx30mm, white polyamide
Test papers (100mm x 75mm), density 88g/m2 at 20°C, of 98% pure
cellulose treated with <0,1% 2,6-di-tert-butyl-4-
nitrophenol

H&M Fabric supplier lab guideline 5(7)

Version 1:1
 7.2 Calibration and purchasing

Calibration needs to be done annually by the supplier of the equipment. All equipment
and spare parts (if needed) must be ordered from a well-known brand. The equipment
must always comply with the testing standard according to H&M Quality Standards and
requirements.
Consumables are available for purchasing from, among others: James H. Heal
(www.james-heal.co.uk); SDC Enterprises Limited (www.sdcenterprises.co.uk); SDL
Atlas (www.sdlatlas.com). H&M cannot be hold responsible for the performance of these
companies’ products.

H&M Fabric supplier lab guideline 6(7)

Version 1:1
 APPENDIX A

For wash machines there are different options which H&M suggest:

• Electrolux W455H with H&M card with H&M wash programs

• Electrolux W555H with H&M card with H&M wash programs
• Electrolux FOM 71 CLS with H&M card with H&M wash programs
• Other front loading washing machine which fulfills below specification.

H&M Fabric supplier lab guideline 7(7)

Version 1:1